[6pack] PDW Switch

[Richard]

Yes, and if it's the front braking system to let go, the rears alone is about equal to the Flintstone brakes! 
Dick

> On Jun 1, 2017, at 1:25 PM, Bud Rolofson via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
> 
> The switch doesn’t actually (and was not intended to) seal anything in the PDWA, the o-rings on the barbells internally seal the fluid in the PDWA. Replace those and center the barbell and the switch should be fine. I have the o-rings (not the cupped version) for the PDWA, send me an address and I’ll mail you some. Oh and I would NOT eliminate the PDWA unless you have the worlds best emergency brake, and then even then probably not.
> 
> Bud Rolofson
> 
> Extreme Parts Racing (more than just a haircut)
> 
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
> 69 Spitfire MK III (back up FE engine/dinghy car)
> 93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle 
> 77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> 
>> On May 31, 2017, at 3:40 PM, Alex&Janet Thomson via 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> wrote:
>> 
>> Lists – I know I saw some discussion several months back about repairing/replacing the brake Pressure Differential Warning switch. Naturally, it was not an issue with me then and I didn’t save the responses. At any rate, there is brake fluid leaking out of the actual switch that screws into the PDW block. I noticed that Moss has new ones (aluminum) for $439 and repair kits for the older brass units (such as ours) for $13. Any thoughts on the best avenue to take? Has anyone simply eliminated the assembly and connected the brake lines with couplings, front-to-front and back-to-back? The subject is a ’73 TR6. Thanks.
>>  
>> Alex Thomson
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