[6pack] Intermittent ground?

[David Friedlander]

Thanks, John. Your thought process on this is quite good. It turned out
that the problem was solved this afternoon, by simply removing the fuse,
lightly sanding its metal ends, then reinserting it into the fuse clips! I
knew *something* was quite there when I measured zero volts on one end of
the fuse and 12.65 on the other! Prior to that, the heater fan, the turn
signals, the wipers, the brake lights and the two gauges didn't work. I
re-inserted that fuse and it's like 20,000 volts into Frankenstein's
monster. It LIVES! Being as the fuse box is relatively new, as are the
fuses, it was hard to imagine (*or* *SEE*) *any *corrosion that could cause
such chaos! All from one green circuit fuse! It's been a long tome since
everything worked so having everything back at the same time is like having
a party with old, long-lost friends! LOL!

Special kudos to IM Sloane for helping me think through this latest
'adventure'....

Thanks for responding,

Dave



On Wed, Aug 17, 2016 at 3:56 PM, John Cyganowski <janah at att.net> wrote:

> <snip> I have been trying to track down the gremlin that's keeping my fuel
> and temp gauges from working. I'll start up the car and those two gauges
> don't function (the voltage and oil pressure gauges work fine). After maybe
> 15 or 20 minutes of
> driving, they'll suddenly kick on and stay on for the rest of the trip.
> Some trips, they
> don't come on at all. <snip>
>
> David-
>
> Those 2 gauges are on the same power circuit.  Have someone sit in the car
> while idling, monitoring the gauges.
>
> You push on (I think the top terminals of the fuse box (I think)  See what
> that does.  If your gauges come up, then I think you need to replace the
> fuse box (not too expensive or difficult (getting the 2 screws out is the
> hard part.)
>
> The TR6 fuse boxes were riveted together.  After 40 years of vibration and
> corrosion, they sometimes fail.
>
> Regards-
> John Cyg
> CC92527LO
> 70 Damson
>
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