From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Feb  1 19:46:37 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 20:46:37 -0600
Subject: [6pack] tr6
Message-ID: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66@Datsun>

triple carb, few other mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic but I put
them back on.

car idles at 2500; does not want to go below.  have the idle screws all the
way out.

thoughts?

From emanteno at comcast.net  Fri Feb  1 20:21:38 2013
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 21:21:38 -0600
Subject: [6pack] tr6
In-Reply-To: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66@Datsun>
References: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66@Datsun>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyhrifDfJF0Z2RMt2hWkZK0y=Fj6pe+vmVKfH8U194EEgg@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:46 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> triple carb, few other mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic but I put
> them back on.
>
> car idles at 2500; does not want to go below.  have the idle screws all the
> way out.
>
> thoughts?
>

BIG vacuum leak or binding linkage, or some of both.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Feb  1 21:45:05 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 22:45:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] tr6
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyhrifDfJF0Z2RMt2hWkZK0y=Fj6pe+vmVKfH8U194EEgg@mail.gmail.com>
References: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66@Datsun>
	<CAFWFMyhrifDfJF0Z2RMt2hWkZK0y=Fj6pe+vmVKfH8U194EEgg@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6FC76C6A87414740A2272247B16CDCE9@livingroompc>

Or the throttle discs not centered correctly, so won't seal or close all the 
way, or choke/throttle accuation screws adjusted too far.

Greg Lemon
TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Irv Korey" <emanteno at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 9:21 PM
To: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6

> On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:46 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>
>> triple carb, few other mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic but I 
>> put
>> them back on.
>>
>> car idles at 2500; does not want to go below.  have the idle screws all 
>> the
>> way out.
>>
>> thoughts?
>>
>
> BIG vacuum leak or binding linkage, or some of both.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon at neb.rr.com

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat Feb  2 09:00:48 2013
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:00:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] tr6
In-Reply-To: <6FC76C6A87414740A2272247B16CDCE9@livingroompc>
References: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66@Datsun>
	<CAFWFMyhrifDfJF0Z2RMt2hWkZK0y=Fj6pe+vmVKfH8U194EEgg@mail.gmail.com>
	<6FC76C6A87414740A2272247B16CDCE9@livingroompc>
Message-ID: <1359820848.78443.YahooMailNeo@web125502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Dave
 
Agree with every thing that has been said. Try an unlit bottlle of
propane around the manifold and the carbs. If you rule out a vacuum leak, try
disconnecting the vacuum to the distributor. See what, if any effect this has
on the idle.
Have you rechecked the timing?      Dale
________________________________
From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
To: Irv
Korey <emanteno at comcast.net>; Dave <dave at ranteer.com> 
Cc: Triumph 6 Pack
<6pack at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 11:45 PM
Subject: Re:
[6pack] tr6

Or the throttle discs not centered correctly, so won't seal or
close all the 
way, or choke/throttle accuation screws adjusted too far.

Greg
Lemon
TR250

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Irv
Korey" <emanteno at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 9:21 PM
To:
"Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject:
Re: [6pack] tr6

> On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:46 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
wrote:
>
>> triple carb, few other mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic
but I 
>> put
>> them back on.
>>
>> car idles at 2500; does not want to go
below.  have the idle screws all 
>> the
>> way out.
>>
>> thoughts?
>>
>
>
BIG vacuum leak or binding linkage, or some of both.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6
CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
> ________________________________________
>
>
6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon at neb.rr.com
________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate:
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From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Feb  2 09:19:53 2013
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 11:19:53 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tr6
In-Reply-To: <1359820848.78443.YahooMailNeo@web125502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66@Datsun>,
	<CAFWFMyhrifDfJF0Z2RMt2hWkZK0y=Fj6pe+vmVKfH8U194EEgg@mail.gmail.com>,
	<6FC76C6A87414740A2272247B16CDCE9@livingroompc>,
	<1359820848.78443.YahooMailNeo@web125502.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU168-W852BC7061056DD6287D89EBA030@phx.gbl>

One time I was fighting idle issues and it turned out to be the brake booster.
Just another option.

Marty
----------------------------------------
> Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:00:48 -0800
> From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com
> To: glemon at neb.rr.com; emanteno at comcast.net; dave at ranteer.com
> CC: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6
>
> Dave
>
> Agree with every thing that has been said. Try an unlit bottlle of
> propane around the manifold and the carbs. If you rule out a vacuum leak,
try
> disconnecting the vacuum to the distributor. See what, if any effect this
has
> on the idle.
> Have you rechecked the timing? Dale
> ________________________________
> From: Greg Lemon <glemon at neb.rr.com>
> To: Irv
> Korey <emanteno at comcast.net>; Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> Cc: Triumph 6 Pack
> <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 11:45 PM
> Subject: Re:
> [6pack] tr6
>
> Or the throttle discs not centered correctly, so won't seal or
> close all the
> way, or choke/throttle accuation screws adjusted too far.
>
> Greg
> Lemon
> TR250
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Irv
> Korey" <emanteno at comcast.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 1, 2013 9:21 PM
> To:
> "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> Cc: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject:
> Re: [6pack] tr6
>
> > On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:46 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
> wrote:
> >
> >> triple carb, few other mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic
> but I
> >> put
> >> them back on.
> >>
> >> car idles at 2500; does not want to go
> below. have the idle screws all
> >> the
> >> way out.
> >>
> >> thoughts?
> >>
> >
> >
> BIG vacuum leak or binding linkage, or some of both.
> >
> > Irv Korey
> > 74 TR6
> CF22767U
> > Highland Park, IL
> >
> > ________________________________________
> >
> >
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive:
> http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon at neb.rr.com
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:
> http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/trmarty at hotmail.com

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Feb  3 13:08:07 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:08:07 -0600
Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued
Message-ID: <CA9F99F9AB1541E9A07E1E2D00EBBE34@Datsun>

update on tr6 idling high.   triple carb, mild cam, etc

Here's what we did this morning:

1.  found what looked like a vacuum port in the bottom of the middle carb and
blocked it off.  it is likely once upon a time connected to the dizzy, which
no longer has a vacuum connection.
2.  blocked off all three vacuum ports on the top right of all three carbs.
these were connected to the valve cover, brake booster, and vapor recovery
canister.
3.  the car started, and idled very nicely at around 1200.  but then as it
warmed up, the idle increased back up to around 2500
4.  checked the position of the pistons in the 3 carbs.  the front and center
carb were more or less sitting at bottom, but the rear carb (by the scuttle)
the piston was noticeably raised.  blocking off that carb completely killed
the engine.  slowly blocking it off lowered the rpms, the more we blocked it.

what next?

From gaf3 at charter.net  Sun Feb  3 17:07:02 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2013 19:07:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 19
In-Reply-To: <mailman.15.1359831604.29570.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.15.1359831604.29570.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <510EFBA6.4020908@charter.net>

I have the same TR6 Triple Strombergs.
The issue is the carbs will not go back to idle.
I pulled the linkage and re evaluated the modification.  No improvement
All the carbs have been rebuilt with new seals and kits.
The problem has been the linkage which is minimal at best.
I use a return spring to bring the carbs back to 800-1000 rpm.
I like Goods parts but this has not been good revision.
I am not happy with the tripple Strombergs;.
Glenn

---------------------------------------------------------------------- 
Message: 1 Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 20:46:37 -0600 From: "Dave" 
<dave at ranteer.com> To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: 
[6pack] tr6 Message-ID: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66 at Datsun> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" triple carb, few other 
mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic but I put them back on. car 
idles at 2500; does not want to go below. have the idle screws all the 
way out. thoughts? ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri, 
1 Feb 2013 21:21:38 -0600 From: Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net> To: 
Dave <dave at ranteer.com> Cc: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> 
Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6 Message-ID: 
<CAFWFMyhrifDfJF0Z2RMt2hWkZK0y=Fj6pe+vmVKfH8U194EEgg at mail.gmail.com> 
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:46 
PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
>> triple carb, few other mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic but I put
>> them back on.
>>
>> car idles at 2500; does not want to go below.  have the idle screws all the
>> way out.
>>
>> thoughts?

From rsh17 at msn.com  Sun Feb  3 19:02:06 2013
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 20:02:06 -0600
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 19
In-Reply-To: <510EFBA6.4020908@charter.net>
References: <mailman.15.1359831604.29570.6pack@autox.team.net>,
	<510EFBA6.4020908@charter.net>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W219E42AFD0A12B11C43E61AA010@phx.gbl>

make sure the throttle shafts line up as that could create some binding.
 I used the original thinner clips between the shafts as they flexed a
little more than the aftermarket ones. Nothing wrong with the kit, just
modifying the linkage may be difficult for some. Doesn't ratco make a
cable that could work???

Disconnect the linkage clamps and see if a good idle can be obtained. if not
then its a carb issue. Connect the linkage and if not idle then look for
binding and make changes to get things to line up and move freely.



> Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 19:07:02 -0500
> From: gaf3 at charter.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 19
>
> I have the same TR6 Triple Strombergs.
> The issue is the carbs will not go back to idle.
> I pulled the linkage and re evaluated the modification.  No improvement
> All the carbs have been rebuilt with new seals and kits.
> The problem has been the linkage which is minimal at best.
> I use a return spring to bring the carbs back to 800-1000 rpm.
> I like Goods parts but this has not been good revision.
> I am not happy with the tripple Strombergs;.
> Glenn
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> Message: 1 Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2013 20:46:37 -0600 From: "Dave"
> <dave at ranteer.com> To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject:
> [6pack] tr6 Message-ID: <C4A8F1E4682E4064A835B7DFBE099C66 at Datsun>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" triple carb, few other
> mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic but I put them back on. car
> idles at 2500; does not want to go below. have the idle screws all the
> way out. thoughts? ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Fri,
> 1 Feb 2013 21:21:38 -0600 From: Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net> To:
> Dave <dave at ranteer.com> Cc: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6 Message-ID:
> <CAFWFMyhrifDfJF0Z2RMt2hWkZK0y=Fj6pe+vmVKfH8U194EEgg at mail.gmail.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" On Fri, Feb 1, 2013 at 8:46
> PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:
> >> triple carb, few other mods, carbs recently rebuilt by a mechanic but I
put
> >> them back on.
> >>
> >> car idles at 2500; does not want to go below.  have the idle screws all
the
> >> way out.
> >>
> >> thoughts?
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rsh17 at msn.com

From dc_bruin at hotmail.com  Mon Feb  4 10:32:15 2013
From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 09:32:15 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Rear Brake Fun
Message-ID: <BLU169-W933D7B43B0BC7333B9BF03F5010@phx.gbl>

Gang,
Kind of a long story but it goes like this:  I got new tires and wheels and
ended up with noticeable negative camber.  I took the car to the local
alignment shop and the guy didn't want to fiddle with the trailing arm
brackets so I decided to order and install the adjustable brackets from
Goodparts (beautiful things -- installed without a hitch).
I should have stopped there, but as I had the rear drums off I decided to
spray a little brake cleaner around the backing plate and other bits to clean
things up a bit.  Well, I must have gotten too aggressive with the cleaner
because one of the rear wheel cylinders started to leak.  I've had my eye on
the 7/8 inch rear wheel cylinders, so I bought a set from BPNW and decided to
install those.  The little fitting kit is kind of fiddly, but I got the
cylinders on and hooked up and then started to bleed the brakes.  The right
side seemed to bleed fine but when I moved over to the left, I got no fluid at
all and after my assistant pumped the brakes for a bit, the right wheel
cylinder started leaking.  I'm not sure what's going on, but I suspect the
left wheel cylinder is defective, and maybe frozen but I'm wondering why that
blew out the right one?  Is it possible that if one of the cylinders won't
move the brakes try to push too much fluid to one side?
Any thoughts or advice are appreciated.
Thanks,
Dwayne'74 TR6

From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 12:50:23 2013
From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 11:50:23 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Rear Brake Fun
In-Reply-To: <BLU169-W933D7B43B0BC7333B9BF03F5010@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU169-W933D7B43B0BC7333B9BF03F5010@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1360007423.25385.YahooMailNeo@web161304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Very strange, Dan. I guess the first thing I'd do, so far as not getting any
fluid to the LR wheel, is to remove the bleed nipple. See if brake fluid is
getting that far. 

Meanwhile, the RR cylinder should not leak just because of
added pressure. Picture panic stops and what the seals must endure here. Take
a close look as to where this cylinder is leaking. I have found leakage at the
threaded connection and had to use teflon tape to get a better thread seal. 
Dick



>________________________________
> From: Dwayne Cooper
<dc_bruin at hotmail.com>
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net 
>Sent: Monday, February 4,
2013 9:32 AM
>Subject: [6pack] Rear Brake Fun
> 
>Gang,
>Kind of a long story
but it goes like this:  I got new tires and wheels and
>ended up with
noticeable negative camber.  I took the car to the local
>alignment shop and
the guy didn't want to fiddle with the trailing arm
>brackets so I decided to
order and install the adjustable brackets from
>Goodparts (beautiful things --
installed without a hitch).
>I should have stopped there, but as I had the
rear drums off I decided to
>spray a little brake cleaner around the backing
plate and other bits to clean
>things up a bit.  Well, I must have gotten too
aggressive with the cleaner
>because one of the rear wheel cylinders started
to leak.  I've had my eye on
>the 7/8 inch rear wheel cylinders, so I bought a
set from BPNW and decided to
>install those.  The little fitting kit is kind
of fiddly, but I got the
>cylinders on and hooked up and then started to bleed
the brakes.  The right
>side seemed to bleed fine but when I moved over to the
left, I got no fluid at
>all and after my assistant pumped the brakes for a
bit, the right wheel
>cylinder started leaking.  I'm not sure what's going on,
but I suspect the
>left wheel cylinder is defective, and maybe frozen but I'm
wondering why that
>blew out the right one?  Is it possible that if one of the
cylinders won't
>move the brakes try to push too much fluid to one side?
>Any
thoughts or advice are appreciated.
>Thanks,
>Dwayne'74 TR6
>
>________________________________________
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>
>Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com

From dc_bruin at hotmail.com  Mon Feb  4 13:33:04 2013
From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 12:33:04 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Rear Brake Fun
In-Reply-To: <1360007423.25385.YahooMailNeo@web161304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <BLU169-W933D7B43B0BC7333B9BF03F5010@phx.gbl>,
	<1360007423.25385.YahooMailNeo@web161304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU169-W40E5AAC197FE6DAC3028B1F5010@phx.gbl>

Thanks everyone -- I had tried to bleed with the drums off (as Michael Porter
suspected) and that appears to be the likely cause of the leaking problem on
the right side.  Not sure why no fluid is coming out of the left side, but
I'll install the drums and start over to see if that takes care of the leak
issue and starts fluid coming to the left side.  If not I'll go backwards
through the plumbing from there and report back.
I appreciate all the help!
Dwayne

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Mon Feb  4 17:22:15 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2013 18:22:15 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Rear Brake Fun
In-Reply-To: <BLU169-W40E5AAC197FE6DAC3028B1F5010@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU169-W933D7B43B0BC7333B9BF03F5010@phx.gbl>,
	<1360007423.25385.YahooMailNeo@web161304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
	<BLU169-W40E5AAC197FE6DAC3028B1F5010@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F17FAA6A7F384921AF7D1F569CF01882@livingroompc>

It happens to the best of us, if you didn't have the drums on perhaps the 
fluid was just taking the path of least resistance, and that wasn't the 
bleed valve, if you seal the system up except for the left side (and put the 
drums back on) it might just run through the left bleed valve fine.

Good luck, Greg Lemon

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Dwayne Cooper" <dc_bruin at hotmail.com>
Sent: Monday, February 4, 2013 2:33 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Brake Fun

> Thanks everyone -- I had tried to bleed with the drums off (as Michael 
> Porter
> suspected) and that appears to be the likely cause of the leaking problem 
> on
> the right side.  Not sure why no fluid is coming out of the left side, but
> I'll install the drums and start over to see if that takes care of the 
> leak
> issue and starts fluid coming to the left side.  If not I'll go backwards
> through the plumbing from there and report back.
> I appreciate all the help!
> Dwayne
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/glemon at neb.rr.com

From emcguirk at optonline.net  Tue Feb  5 20:41:45 2013
From: emcguirk at optonline.net (Ed McGuirk)
Date: Tue, 05 Feb 2013 22:41:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1360004403.24904.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1360004403.24904.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5111D0F9.9030207@optonline.net>

The lifted piston in the rear carb strongly suggests that all the extra 
air is passing under that piston. You probably do not have a leak ( a 
leak would not raise a carb piston), you probably have an out of sync 
throttle plate or linkage. I think your next step should be to look 
closely at the rearmost throttle plate. How it sits at idle and how it 
moves with the other throttle plates and gas pedal. You probably will 
not be able to lift the piston and see the throttle plate with the 
engine running. You may need a flashlight and a mirror to see down the 
carb throat.

ed

On 2/4/2013 2:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:08:07 -0600
> From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued
> Message-ID: <CA9F99F9AB1541E9A07E1E2D00EBBE34 at Datsun>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> update on tr6 idling high.   triple carb, mild cam, etc
>
> Here's what we did this morning:
>
> 1.  found what looked like a vacuum port in the bottom of the middle carb and
> blocked it off.  it is likely once upon a time connected to the dizzy, which
> no longer has a vacuum connection.
> 2.  blocked off all three vacuum ports on the top right of all three carbs.
> these were connected to the valve cover, brake booster, and vapor recovery
> canister.
> 3.  the car started, and idled very nicely at around 1200.  but then as it
> warmed up, the idle increased back up to around 2500
> 4.  checked the position of the pistons in the 3 carbs.  the front and center
> carb were more or less sitting at bottom, but the rear carb (by the scuttle)
> the piston was noticeably raised.  blocking off that carb completely killed
> the engine.  slowly blocking it off lowered the rpms, the more we blocked it.
>
> what next?

From dave at ranteer.com  Wed Feb  6 09:07:13 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 10:07:13 -0600
Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued - update
In-Reply-To: <5111D0F9.9030207@optonline.net>
References: <mailman.9.1360004403.24904.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<5111D0F9.9030207@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <8F655AAFE4B641BF88383A07B7037ACB@Datsun>

yesterday we did an interesting experiment.

we swapped carbs 1 (front) and 3 (rear, next to scuttle).  obviously we 
couldn't connect the linkages, but everything else hooks up.

after getting the car warmed up (had to manually push on two of the carbs 
accelerators to keep it going until then), I found that all three balanced 
very nicely and the car idled along happily at about 1100 to 1200 rpm (this 
car is rather modified so this is a good idle)

there was no more issue about one carb piston being higher or registering 
differently on my flow meter.  all were nicely in sync at this point.

putting the carbs back where they belonged the problem returned.  this 
problem was in evidence even with the accelerator linkage disconnected and 
the clips on the throttle linkages loose.  the rear carb pulls way more air 
than the other two, and the best I can do is about 2000 rpm idle





-----Original Message----- 
From: Ed McGuirk
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 9:41 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued

The lifted piston in the rear carb strongly suggests that all the extra
air is passing under that piston. You probably do not have a leak ( a
leak would not raise a carb piston), you probably have an out of sync
throttle plate or linkage. I think your next step should be to look
closely at the rearmost throttle plate. How it sits at idle and how it
moves with the other throttle plates and gas pedal. You probably will
not be able to lift the piston and see the throttle plate with the
engine running. You may need a flashlight and a mirror to see down the
carb throat.

ed

On 2/4/2013 2:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote:
> Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:08:07 -0600
> From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
> To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued
> Message-ID: <CA9F99F9AB1541E9A07E1E2D00EBBE34 at Datsun>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> update on tr6 idling high.   triple carb, mild cam, etc
>
> Here's what we did this morning:
>
> 1.  found what looked like a vacuum port in the bottom of the middle carb 
> and
> blocked it off.  it is likely once upon a time connected to the dizzy, 
> which
> no longer has a vacuum connection.
> 2.  blocked off all three vacuum ports on the top right of all three 
> carbs.
> these were connected to the valve cover, brake booster, and vapor recovery
> canister.
> 3.  the car started, and idled very nicely at around 1200.  but then as it
> warmed up, the idle increased back up to around 2500
> 4.  checked the position of the pistons in the 3 carbs.  the front and 
> center
> carb were more or less sitting at bottom, but the rear carb (by the 
> scuttle)
> the piston was noticeably raised.  blocking off that carb completely 
> killed
> the engine.  slowly blocking it off lowered the rpms, the more we blocked 
> it.

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed Feb  6 09:38:21 2013
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 11:38:21 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Chicago British car swap meet
Message-ID: <511286FD.9050102@bright.net>

Hello List(s). The Chicago swap meet is just around the corner - Feb. 
24. This is a good event. If you haven't been to it, it is worth 
attending.  Details can be found at www.britishcarswap.info. If you are 
a first time attendee, go early. The show hours are supposedly until 3 
pm but you will not find anyone there much after 1. We will be in our 
usual spaces in building 2.  If you want me to bring anything, please 
let me know.  (free freight is good). Thanks, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Wed Feb  6 12:28:49 2013
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 14:28:49 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye Triumph Cabin Fever Swap Meet
Message-ID: <CAB=Dx7UfTL+j5EDw35y5WMdp23JAxmxQVqyzqOGB=5yRrCwpsg@mail.gmail.com>

Ted's email reminds me - don't forget that Buckeye Triumphs will be
hosting its Third Annual Cabin Fever Swap Meet on Feburary 9, 2013.
We'll have various vendors from around the area (including Ted). Bring
your British-related parts and pieces (and anything else you have that
your significant other wants you to clear out of the garage)! If you
would like to reserve a spot, please email us. Otherwise, it will be
first come first serve, so please show up early to get a spot.

Here is the info:

February 9th
10 to 3
Plain City Pastime Park Recreation Building
344 N Chillicothe St
Plain City, OH 43064

From oliv7219 at bellsouth.net  Wed Feb  6 13:06:28 2013
From: oliv7219 at bellsouth.net (Butch Oliver)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 12:06:28 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1360181188.22534.YahooMailNeo@web184702.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

http://www.intelliwest.com/plugins/chikchik.php?lzwojfyfw






***
Butch Oliver

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Wed Feb  6 17:05:02 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2013 18:05:02 -0600
Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued - update
In-Reply-To: <8F655AAFE4B641BF88383A07B7037ACB@Datsun>
References: <mailman.9.1360004403.24904.6pack@autox.team.net><5111D0F9.9030207@optonline.net>
	<8F655AAFE4B641BF88383A07B7037ACB@Datsun>
Message-ID: <8FC4C0933E4C487F8D0137EDDBA63B0A@GregPC>

I think the deafening sound of responses you are hearing now is the Triumph 
list collectively scratching its head.  I was going for an out of alignment 
throttle disc, but I don't think it would care which part of the manifold 
the carb was linked to.   I assume the choke linkage is disconnected as 
well.  The only thing I can think of, short of something out of place in 
some way turning the throttle shaft when you put the carb on the back, is 
that the manifold is maybe out of whack in some way, or at least out of 
whack in some bizarre way that warps the back carb ever so slightly when 
tightened down messing up the throttle shaft movement or creating a vacuum 
leak, kind of like meshing the wrong piston with the wrong dashpot, both may 
be within spec, but they don't play well together. sounds far fetched, even 
to me.

The only other thought, is can you mark the throttle shafts or in some way 
to determine if it is more open on the back carb than on the front?

Good Luck!

Greg Lemon
Triumph TR250

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Wed Feb  6 22:50:27 2013
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 07 Feb 2013 00:50:27 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued - update
In-Reply-To: <8f70dc.1ce0484.41b7d773.1e46@ranteer.com>
References: <8f70dc.1ce0484.41b7d773.1e46@ranteer.com>
Message-ID: <WC20130207055027.9303D1@indiefilmnet.com>

Having eliminated the simple, one must speculate it could be more exotic.


It almost sounds like there are two problems; with one of them possibly being 
something to do with valve adjustment. That can certainly affect intake 
vacuum/air flow.


Are you certain that all three carbs are the same version? I had to exchange 
a unit or two to get three identical parts for my triple setup. There were 
fairly significant differences over the years and I was told it was rather 
important to properly match things. 


Also the carb vacuum port, you pointed out, is no longer fed to the retard 
port on the distributor. Without that, my car idle is almost 500 rpm higher. 
That is with a CC XR700 ignition, not just the standard points.


Mark

1972 TR6 (with triple Strombergs)



-----Original Message-----
 From: Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
 To: 6pack at autox.team.net
 Date: Wed, 06 Feb 2013 11:16:08 -0500
 Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued - update


yesterday we did an interesting experiment.

 we swapped carbs 1 (front) and 3 (rear, next to scuttle).  obviously we
 couldn't connect the linkages, but everything else hooks up.

 after getting the car warmed up (had to manually push on two of the carbs
 accelerators to keep it going until then), I found that all three balanced
 very nicely and the car idled along happily at about 1100 to 1200 rpm (this
 car is rather modified so this is a good idle)

 there was no more issue about one carb piston being higher or registering
 differently on my flow meter.  all were nicely in sync at this point.

 putting the carbs back where they belonged the problem returned.  this
 problem was in evidence even with the accelerator linkage disconnected and
 the clips on the throttle linkages loose.  the rear carb pulls way more air
 than the other two, and the best I can do is about 2000 rpm idle





 -----Original Message-----
 From: Ed McGuirk
 Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 9:41 PM
 To: 6pack at autox.team.net
 Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued

 The lifted piston in the rear carb strongly suggests that all the extra
 air is passing under that piston. You probably do not have a leak ( a
 leak would not raise a carb piston), you probably have an out of sync
 throttle plate or linkage. I think your next step should be to look
 closely at the rearmost throttle plate. How it sits at idle and how it
 moves with the other throttle plates and gas pedal. You probably will
 not be able to lift the piston and see the throttle plate with the
 engine running. You may need a flashlight and a mirror to see down the
 carb throat.

 ed

 On 2/4/2013 2:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote:
 > Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2013 14:08:07 -0600
 > From: "Dave" <dave at ranteer.com>
 > To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
 > Subject: [6pack] tr6 high idle continued
 > Message-ID: <CA9F99F9AB1541E9A07E1E2D00EBBE34 at Datsun>
 > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
 >
 > update on tr6 idling high.   triple carb, mild cam, etc
 >
 > Here's what we did this morning:
 >
 > 1.  found what looked like a vacuum port in the bottom of the middle carb
 > and
 > blocked it off.  it is likely once upon a time connected to the dizzy,
 > which
 > no longer has a vacuum connection.
 > 2.  blocked off all three vacuum ports on the top right of all three
 > carbs.
 > these were connected to the valve cover, brake booster, and vapor recovery
 > canister.
 > 3.  the car started, and idled very nicely at around 1200.  but then as it
 > warmed up, the idle increased back up to around 2500
 > 4.  checked the position of the pistons in the 3 carbs.  the front and
 > center
 > carb were more or less sitting at bottom, but the rear carb (by the
 > scuttle)
 > the piston was noticeably raised.  blocking off that carb completely
 > killed
 > the engine.  slowly blocking it off lowered the rpms, the more we blocked
 > it.

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Fri Feb  8 16:08:23 2013
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 18:08:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
Message-ID: <F95C1503C7454645B8E10162CF43FFFA@JerryJanePC>

This is probably old news, but I have just had two hydraulic component
failures using DOT 5. Now I understand from Leighton of British Car Parts
Northwest www.bpnorthwest.com that quote, b None of the cylinder
manufactures (Girling, TRW, AP, ATE) recommend or will warranty cylinders that
have been used with DOT 5. They state the cylinders are not designed for use
with DOT 5 fluid which will lead to failure. One reason is the DOT 5 fluid
does not have as high lubricity as the DOT 4 which will leave to pre-mature
seal failure.b

I hope that suppliers of DOT 5 have disclaimers. Ibve probably missed that
email.

Jerry

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Feb  8 16:28:30 2013
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 18:28:30 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <F95C1503C7454645B8E10162CF43FFFA@JerryJanePC>
References: <F95C1503C7454645B8E10162CF43FFFA@JerryJanePC>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwh8=t2fd9Jo73vNDa3K_L5AWU9oosQjVC=o0B08tFgSLA@mail.gmail.com>

Interesting, Jerry. I've been using DOT5 for three years now, with little
or no problem. No problem for the paint wither, if I spill some... I'm sure
others out there have used DOT5 with no problem(s) far longer than I
have...
Little if any moisture absorption, too...

Dave
'74 Six w/A-OD + TBI


On Fri, Feb 8, 2013 at 6:08 PM, Jerry Shaw <slowtoaccept at yahoo.com> wrote:

> This is probably old news, but I have just had two hydraulic component
> failures using DOT 5. Now I understand from Leighton of British Car Parts
> Northwest www.bpnorthwest.com that quote, b  None of the cylinder
> manufactures (Girling, TRW, AP, ATE) recommend or will warranty cylinders
> that
> have been used with DOT 5. They state the cylinders are not designed for
> use
> with DOT 5 fluid which will lead to failure. One reason is the DOT 5 fluid
> does not have as high lubricity as the DOT 4 which will leave to pre-mature
> seal failure.b
>
> I hope that suppliers of DOT 5 have disclaimers. Ib ve probably missed that
> email.
>
> Jerry
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Fri Feb  8 16:39:10 2013
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 23:39:10 +0000
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwh8=t2fd9Jo73vNDa3K_L5AWU9oosQjVC=o0B08tFgSLA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <F95C1503C7454645B8E10162CF43FFFA@JerryJanePC>
	<CAJ1eQwh8=t2fd9Jo73vNDa3K_L5AWU9oosQjVC=o0B08tFgSLA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <179639810-1360366755-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1632081570-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry>

Ditto what Fid said except in my case its 6 years in both the brake and clutch systems.  The rebuild kits came from TRF 6+ years ago when we did the restoration. 

Lou 
72 Pimento
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 18:28:30 
To: Jerry Shaw<slowtoaccept at yahoo.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures

Interesting, Jerry. I've been using DOT5 for three years now, with little
or no problem. No problem for the paint wither, if I spill some... I'm sure
others out there have used DOT5 with no problem(s) far longer than I
have...
Little if any moisture absorption, too...

Dave
'74 Six w/A-OD + TBI


On Fri, Feb 8, 2013 at 6:08 PM, Jerry Shaw <slowtoaccept at yahoo.com> wrote:

> This is probably old news, but I have just had two hydraulic component
> failures using DOT 5. Now I understand from Leighton of British Car Parts
> Northwest www.bpnorthwest.com that quote, b  None of the cylinder
> manufactures (Girling, TRW, AP, ATE) recommend or will warranty cylinders
> that
> have been used with DOT 5. They state the cylinders are not designed for
> use
> with DOT 5 fluid which will lead to failure. One reason is the DOT 5 fluid
> does not have as high lubricity as the DOT 4 which will leave to pre-mature
> seal failure.b
>
> I hope that suppliers of DOT 5 have disclaimers. Ib ve probably missed that
> email.
>
> Jerry
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Fri Feb  8 17:15:17 2013
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen)
Date: Fri,  8 Feb 2013 19:15:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <179639810-1360366755-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1632081570-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry>
References: <F95C1503C7454645B8E10162CF43FFFA@JerryJanePC>
	<CAJ1eQwh8=t2fd9Jo73vNDa3K_L5AWU9oosQjVC=o0B08tFgSLA@mail.gmail.com>
	<179639810-1360366755-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1632081570-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <201302090015.063719@ms01.consolidated.net>

6 years for me in both my clutch and MC. No problems.
Steve Kirsis

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Fri Feb  8 17:29:07 2013
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 18:29:07 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
Message-ID: <12902929.1360369747705.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello Jerry,

I have used Dot 5 brake fluid for over 20 years.  At about 20 years of use I
had to rebuild the rear wheel cylinders that I had replaced in 1989.  The
reason for the rebuild was because I had bought and used a quart of DOT 5.1 by
mistake!  It took a while for the failure to occur.  I mixed the two different
brake fluid.

Regards,

Robert Perry


-----Original Message-----
>From: Jerry Shaw <slowtoaccept at yahoo.com>
>Sent: Feb 8, 2013 5:08 PM
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
>
>This is probably old news, but I have just had two hydraulic component
>failures using DOT 5. Now I understand from Leighton of British Car Parts
>Northwest www.bpnorthwest.com that quote, b
 None of the cylinder
>manufactures (Girling, TRW, AP, ATE) recommend or will warranty cylinders
that
>have been used with DOT 5. They state the cylinders are not designed for use
>with DOT 5 fluid which will lead to failure. One reason is the DOT 5 fluid
>does not have as high lubricity as the DOT 4 which will leave to pre-mature
>seal failure.b

>
>I hope that suppliers of DOT 5 have disclaimers. Ibve probably missed that
>email.
>
>Jerry
>
>________________________________________
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgperry at earthlink.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Fri Feb  8 21:10:35 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com)
Date: Fri, 08 Feb 2013 21:10:35 -0700
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
Message-ID: <20130208211035.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.087c3d5aa1.wbe@email06.secureserver.net>


From gaf3 at charter.net  Sat Feb  9 16:20:50 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2013 18:20:50 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>

I spent the last 8 years of my career in Brake Engineering with TRW 
(owns Lucas) as my supplier.
There are a multitude or reasons why they will not warranty components 
that use Dot5

  * All their bench durability and life testing is primarily done with
    DOT 3 or 4
  * DOT 5 is not Hygroscopic and does not absorb moisture
  * All Fluid boil tests are done with DOT 3 or 4 with max H20 absorption
  * Field testing in Death Valley is done with DOT 3
  * The legal staff probably warned them against it.

That being said I have used Silicone DOT 5 in My TR6 for the past 4 
years with no problems or lifted paint.

With any fresh brake builds I use Silicone DOT 5.

Just my 2 cents worth
Glenn

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Sun Feb 10 06:27:40 2013
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 08:27:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CA+aQ7wxcfdGr363h7ju5+WLO6W4iW1Mv=KCsXTwgZOexX9K=MQ@mail.gmail.com>

6pack friends,

I have also used silicone in my hydraulic systems for almost 8 years with
no detrimental effects. The only thing I can't explain is why the purple
brake fluid eventually turns brown despite all the components having been
renewed when the switch to DOT 5 was made.

However, my point in replying is to urge the experts in this group to
figure out why Jerry Shaw's brake system failed. The majority seem to
concur that it wasn't caused by silicone, but I'd like to learn what then
caused Jerry's problems. Jerry, perhaps if you would provide more details
about the brake problems you experienced someone might come up with
alternative explanations.

Best to all,
Bob Fabie
'75 TR6


On Sat, Feb 9, 2013 at 6:20 PM, Glenn Franco <gaf3 at charter.net> wrote:

> I spent the last 8 years of my career in Brake Engineering with TRW
> (owns Lucas) as my supplier.
> There are a multitude or reasons why they will not warranty components
> that use Dot5
>
>   * All their bench durability and life testing is primarily done with
>     DOT 3 or 4
>   * DOT 5 is not Hygroscopic and does not absorb moisture
>   * All Fluid boil tests are done with DOT 3 or 4 with max H20 absorption
>   * Field testing in Death Valley is done with DOT 3
>   * The legal staff probably warned them against it.
>
> That being said I have used Silicone DOT 5 in My TR6 for the past 4
> years with no problems or lifted paint.
>
> With any fresh brake builds I use Silicone DOT 5.
>
> Just my 2 cents worth
> Glenn
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bobfabie at gmail.com

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 10 08:40:19 2013
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 10:40:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <CA+aQ7wxcfdGr363h7ju5+WLO6W4iW1Mv=KCsXTwgZOexX9K=MQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>
	<CA+aQ7wxcfdGr363h7ju5+WLO6W4iW1Mv=KCsXTwgZOexX9K=MQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001801ce07a4$f2c5bfc0$d8513f40$@comcast.net>

Did the originator of this issue completely replace all components and flush
the lines before changing over to dot 5. Maybe I missed it, but looking back
through the thread I could not find where that was substantiated. A simple
flush without changing any contaminated rubber parts will lead to cross
contamination, therefor brake failure. And when I say completely, I mean
absolutely 100% with multiple alchohol flush of the lines. Just my two cents
worth.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Feb 10 09:25:59 2013
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud R)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 09:25:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <001801ce07a4$f2c5bfc0$d8513f40$@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>
	<CA+aQ7wxcfdGr363h7ju5+WLO6W4iW1Mv=KCsXTwgZOexX9K=MQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801ce07a4$f2c5bfc0$d8513f40$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <D8E73C56-F15C-47F2-B328-B30EEEED5609@comcast.net>

I didn't flush the system when I switched to DOT 5 more than 10 years  
ago. Simply ran DOT 5 through the system until DOT 5 came out the  
bleeders. No problems and no paint removed in the last decade or so  
and many miles put on the car including autocrosses.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
71 Spitfire MK IV Race Car #3
93 Minnie Winnie Race Support Vehicle
77 Z-50A Hardly Davidson Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)








On Feb 10, 2013, at 8:40 AM, Robert wrote:

> Did the originator of this issue completely replace all components  
> and flush
> the lines before changing over to dot 5. Maybe I missed it, but  
> looking back
> through the thread I could not find where that was substantiated. A  
> simple
> flush without changing any contaminated rubber parts will lead to  
> cross
> contamination, therefor brake failure. And when I say completely, I  
> mean
> absolutely 100% with multiple alchohol flush of the lines. Just my  
> two cents
> worth.
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sun Feb 10 10:00:31 2013
From: lfm614 at aol.com (Lfmaol)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 11:00:31 -0600
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <001801ce07a4$f2c5bfc0$d8513f40$@comcast.net>
References: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>
	<CA+aQ7wxcfdGr363h7ju5+WLO6W4iW1Mv=KCsXTwgZOexX9K=MQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<001801ce07a4$f2c5bfc0$d8513f40$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E7C0850F-459D-4B36-93CC-1A103177420B@aol.com>

I respectfully disagree with the need to flush with alcohol. The reason I say
that is that I have been running DOT5 in a previous DOT3 system without the
alcohol flush for almost 4 years now with no problems what so ever.  I rebuilt
both master cylinders and clutch slave but not the wheel cylinders or calipers
as they were/are working great with no leaks, sponginess or binding.

After reading a very good article on Buckeye Triumphs about fluids when I was
doing this, I decided to just replace the 3 with 5.  They don't mix at all.
If you put both in a jar, they will stratify in less than an hour with the
DOT3 (and water) on bottom.   So what I did is I flushed the DOT3 with DOT5 by
bleeding the brakes starting from the furthest wheel first, etc. until I saw
dark purple fluid at all four corners.  After about 100 miles and 2 weeks
later I repeated the process and got the rest of clear fluid which was minimal
out.

I believe that if you are not very careful to flush just the lines and use new
rubber you can more damage that good by exposing the rubber seals to alcohol.
Look what E15 is doing to fuel lines and seals and why most car manufacturers
today say it will void the warranty to use it and that's only 15% alcohol.

I think that the best thing you can do to ensure success during rebuild is to
use abundant Girling or other rubber grease to coat the seals and reduce
friction, it will last as its not soluble to DOT5.  Also be real careful when
buying new masters and cylinders as there are lots on cheap imitations out
there of not the best quality. This is why I prefer to rebuild unless there is
substantial pitting and so far I have had good luck with that approach.

Not arguing, just presenting a different opinion from someone that's been
there - done that.

Here is the Buckeye article if anyone wants to read it :
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm

Lou
72 Pimento


On Feb 10, 2013, at 9:40 AM, "Robert" <trsix74 at comcast.net> wrote:

> Did the originator of this issue completely replace all components and
flush
> the lines before changing over to dot 5. Maybe I missed it, but looking
back
> through the thread I could not find where that was substantiated. A simple
> flush without changing any contaminated rubber parts will lead to cross
> contamination, therefor brake failure. And when I say completely, I mean
> absolutely 100% with multiple alchohol flush of the lines. Just my two
cents
> worth.
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From gaf3 at charter.net  Sun Feb 10 12:35:33 2013
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 14:35:33 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1360522803.19268.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1360522803.19268.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <5117F685.3090402@charter.net>

In response to the brake fluid turning dark or in some cases black, the carbon black in the epdm rubber seals leaches out in some systems and will turn the fluid DOT 3 or 4 and in some cases DOT 5 dark.
I would feel better having the calipers at least drained or preferably rebuilt before running DOT 5.
Just my 2 cents worth
Glenn

Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 08:27:40 -0500
From: robert fabie<bobfabie at gmail.com>
Cc:"6pack at autox.team.net"  <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
Message-ID:
	<CA+aQ7wxcfdGr363h7ju5+WLO6W4iW1Mv=KCsXTwgZOexX9K=MQ at mail.gmail.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

6pack friends,

I have also used silicone in my hydraulic systems for almost 8 years with
no detrimental effects. The only thing I can't explain is why the purple
brake fluid eventually turns brown despite all the components having been
renewed when the switch to DOT 5 was made.

From cartravel at pobox.com  Sun Feb 10 12:57:27 2013
From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 13:57:27 -0600
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>
References: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net>
Message-ID: <5117FBA7.70007@pobox.com>

The only problem I've observed with Dot 5 is that the hydraulic type 
brake light switches seem to fail.  I have heard the same problem from 
others.  This problem will not occur with the TR6 since it has a 
mechanical switch.
Larry Young

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Sun Feb 10 14:09:40 2013
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 16:09:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
Message-ID: <83B95AF494CB43068C456C6AD6998D0F@JerryJanePC>

Thanks to all for your help.

Ibve been working on this TR6 for 9 years, finally enjoying it the past two.
Because of the long history, the rear brake and clutch system were exposed to
DOT 4 for a couple years, and obviously the master cylinders as well, although
all were either re-kitted or new while still using DOT 4 .  I then decided to
go DOT 5 over 3 years ago, since I had repainted the car. Ibve experienced 3
hydraulic failures with DOT 5, with the leaks coming after I had installed new
brake lines and flushed out the brake and clutch system by multiple bleeding
with DOT 5.

The first failure was a rear cylinder and I didnbt do a post mortem, just
replaced it with new. A post-mortem on a recent failed clutch slave cylinder
revealed no rust or potential DOT 4 water damage.

After doing some post mortem on the most recent rear wheel cylinder failure
just today, I now believe that there was some remnant of DOT 4 water damage
(prior to DOT 5) or absorption of DOT 4 in the rubber seals, since the
interior bore of the wheel cylinder was rust-pitted and rubber chards were
detected in the back of the cylinder.

With the help of this list, it is now my opinion that DOT 5 is not the
problem, but the mixed history of the use of water absorbing DOT 4 .

Jerry Shaw
b74 TR6 http://www.triumphowners.com/977

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Sun Feb 10 18:29:12 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2013 19:29:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <E7C0850F-459D-4B36-93CC-1A103177420B@aol.com>
References: <mailman.11.1360436403.18609.6pack@autox.team.net><5116D9D2.5070404@charter.net><CA+aQ7wxcfdGr363h7ju5+WLO6W4iW1Mv=KCsXTwgZOexX9K=MQ@mail.gmail.com><001801ce07a4$f2c5bfc0$d8513f40$@comcast.net>
	<E7C0850F-459D-4B36-93CC-1A103177420B@aol.com>
Message-ID: <46784205476442AC99A256675623BCE8@livingroompc>

I did essentially the same thing as Lou describes on my Austin Healey and 
drove it for many years afterwards with no problems, on the TR250 I started 
with all new parts and used Dot 5, no problems there either.  I tried to 
post to this topic earlier, but don't think it went through.  I have been 
driving brit cars for a long time, about 35 years, in the old days I had 
regular issues with this or that slave cylinder leaking or seeping past the 
seals, couldn't say exactly how often, but happened more times than I can 
remember, maybe once every year or two.

Since going to silicone about 10 years ago I don't believe I have had any 
issues whatsoever with leaks, hard to remember for sure that far back, but 
know I have not had issues for many many years.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lfmaol" <lfm614 at aol.com>
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2013 11:00 AM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures

> I respectfully disagree with the need to flush with alcohol. The reason I 
> say
> that is that I have been running DOT5 in a previous DOT3 system without 
> the
> alcohol flush for almost 4 years now with no problems what so ever.  I 
> rebuilt
> both master cylinders and clutch slave but not the wheel cylinders or 
> calipers
> as they were/are working great with no leaks, sponginess or binding.
>
> After reading a very good article on Buckeye Triumphs about fluids when I 
> was
> doing this, I decided to just replace the 3 with 5.  They don't mix at 
> all.
> If you put both in a jar, they will stratify in less than an hour with the
> DOT3 (and water) on bottom.   So what I did is I flushed the DOT3 with 
> DOT5 by
> bleeding the brakes starting from the furthest wheel first, etc. until I 
> saw
> dark purple fluid at all four corners.  After about 100 miles and 2 weeks
> later I repeated the process and got the rest of clear fluid which was 
> minimal
> out.
>
> I believe that if you are not very careful to flush just the lines and use 
> new
> rubber you can more damage that good by exposing the rubber seals to 
> alcohol.
> Look what E15 is doing to fuel lines and seals and why most car 
> manufacturers
> today say it will void the warranty to use it and that's only 15% alcohol.
>
> I think that the best thing you can do to ensure success during rebuild is 
> to
> use abundant Girling or other rubber grease to coat the seals and reduce
> friction, it will last as its not soluble to DOT5.  Also be real careful 
> when
> buying new masters and cylinders as there are lots on cheap imitations out
> there of not the best quality. This is why I prefer to rebuild unless 
> there is
> substantial pitting and so far I have had good luck with that approach.
>
> Not arguing, just presenting a different opinion from someone that's been
> there - done that.
>
> Here is the Buckeye article if anyone wants to read it :
> http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/Fluid/Fluid.htm
>
> Lou
> 72 Pimento

From mark at bradakis.com  Mon Feb 11 18:57:20 2013
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 18:57:20 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Team.Net notes
Message-ID: <5119A180.5050709@bradakis.com>

One thing I have done to counteract the recent flurry of hijacked email 
addresses
sending bad stuff through the the list is change the list settings for 
number of
allowed recipients.  Most of them include at least half a dozen or so 
addresses,
maybe more, in each message as they go through the victim's address list.

I've lowered the limit to 3.  While this will stop a fair amount of the 
bad stuff
from getting sent to the lists, it will also delay some legitimate messages.
If folks send off nested replies with many recipients their mail will be 
held,
waiting for me to approve it and send it on.  I'll work on being more 
diligent
about going through the pending admin requests [ 7,438 at the moment ]
to separate the wheat from the chaff.

And an advance notice - the annual fund drive will be coming up in a 
month or so,
I will try and get all the forum and FTP issues resolved before asking 
for contributions.
Never ending chores - I think I'll ask the man in charge for a raise!

mjb.

From glemon at neb.rr.com  Fri Feb  8 18:20:51 2013
From: glemon at neb.rr.com (Greg Lemon)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2013 19:20:51 -0600
Subject: [6pack] DOT 5 leads to hydraulic component failures
In-Reply-To: <12902929.1360369747705.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <12902929.1360369747705.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <35B76C7EDCD745C39C6723B883728307@livingroompc>

I have driven British cars for 35 years, Triumphs, Healeys, MGs.  Although I 
did not keep records of how often I had to rebuild or replace leaky slave 
and master cylinders, it was a fairly regular occurrence.  The last two cars 
I have had, last 12 years or so, I have used silicone fluid, although I 
can't say for sure going that far back, I don't think I have had a leaky 
cylinder since I started using the silicone, if I have it has been many many 
years.  Others experience may differ (obviously), but I am sold on the 
stuff.

Greg Lemon

From btp44 at aol.com  Mon Feb 11 20:54:26 2013
From: btp44 at aol.com (Berry)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2013 22:54:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Dot 5
Message-ID: <8CFD6EBC9528D9F-14D8-36925@webmail-m070.sysops.aol.com>

Last month I noticed  fluid dripping from the clutch master cyl, so I decided
it would be a good time to rebuild both the master&slave cylinders. Both of
the bores were like new (the master was sleeved with stainless) and the cast
iron slave cyl. showed no signs of pitting. I was surprised that the seals
were quite soft-kind of like dried jello and very swollen. Looking back at my
records, I found that they were last replaced in 1996. Not a bad testimony for
Dot 5 fluid.
Berry

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Wed Feb 13 06:33:32 2013
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2013 13:33:32 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
Message-ID: <BLU171-W30DCF2FF783687ED8BD6378E080@phx.gbl>

So, I guess we're the only ones that would think that a big boat named TRIUMPH
having electrical problems is kinda funny.

No offence intended to anyone having friends/family on-board, but I couldn't
resist.

Sloane :o)
69-Six

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 19 07:44:52 2013
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 14:44:52 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
In-Reply-To: <BLU171-W30DCF2FF783687ED8BD6378E080@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU171-W30DCF2FF783687ED8BD6378E080@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU171-W120D31E89F6C207EACEEE3E8EF50@phx.gbl>

The reported reason for the fire was an oil line leak. Just thought you guys
with an oil-cooler might want to make a note of that.

Sloane :o)
69-Six


> Subject: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
>
> So, I guess we're the only ones that would think that a big boat named
TRIUMPH
> having electrical problems is kinda funny.
>
> No offence intended to anyone having friends/family on-board, but I
couldn't
> resist.
>
> Sloane :o)
> 69-Six

From lfm614 at aol.com  Tue Feb 19 07:57:10 2013
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 14:57:10 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
Message-ID: <1050676900-1361285832-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1341367715-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry>

This whole ordeal reeks of incompetence, let's hope that once the facts come out its not. 

The boat catches fire between Mexico and Galveston and they tow it with no power across the Gulf for 4 days to Mobile?  What about Galveston or Houston to get the people off?

Cause of the localized fire is now pegged at fuel return line for engine #6 put out by the fire suppression system.  Why aren't the other engines and generators running?

There is a second generator room but yet those generators weren't running either. What's up with that?

Too many questions, no answers.  Doubt Lucas played a part on the Triumph. 

Lou 
72 Pimento


------Original Message------
From: im sloane
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
Sent: Feb 19, 2013 8:44 AM

The reported reason for the fire was an oil line leak. Just thought you guys
with an oil-cooler might want to make a note of that.

Sloane :o)
69-Six


> Subject: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
>
> So, I guess we're the only ones that would think that a big boat named
TRIUMPH
> having electrical problems is kinda funny.
>
> No offence intended to anyone having friends/family on-board, but I
couldn't
> resist.
>
> Sloane :o)
> 69-Six

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From dc_bruin at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 19 10:49:02 2013
From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 09:49:02 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Rear Brake Fun
In-Reply-To: <BLU169-W40E5AAC197FE6DAC3028B1F5010@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU169-W933D7B43B0BC7333B9BF03F5010@phx.gbl>,
	<1360007423.25385.YahooMailNeo@web161304.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>,
	<BLU169-W40E5AAC197FE6DAC3028B1F5010@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU169-W43D042AAFB4F86F6060B24F5F50@phx.gbl>

Quick update on my brake situation from a week or two ago:
As suspected, the piston from the cylinder on the right rear had traveled far
enough to be leaking.  When I took it to the bench and took the little boot
off it just fell out into my hand.  After reassembly and bleeding the brakes
(with the drums on this time), the fluid flowed to the left side without any
problem at all.
I'm on the road again -- thanks everyone.
Dwayne

From mhooper at indiefilmnet.com  Wed Feb 20 07:43:46 2013
From: mhooper at indiefilmnet.com (Mark Hooper)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2013 09:43:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
In-Reply-To: <1050676900-1361285832-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1341367715-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry>
References: <1050676900-1361285832-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1341367715-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <WC20130220144346.8607BE@indiefilmnet.com>

Hi Lou:


I think I heard reference to the fire burning up the "electrical switching 
system", leaving them unable/afraid to use much of the equipment. Sounds 
like an amazingly un-redundant piece of redundancy to me. Wonderful design, 
very much Prince of Darkness.


As for ship movements; I find it hard to imagine that the captain made any of 
these decisions on his own following the fire. With the world watching, it 
must have been the upper echelons and the maritime authorities calling the 
shots. I suspect that none of the closer cities wanted the possibility of 
this thing coming ashore broadside and capsizing, a la Costa Concordia. 
Whether it was lilely or not, other ports may have refused entry.


Mark 

1972 TR6


-----Original Message-----
 From: lfm614 at aol.com
 To: "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net>
 Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2013 14:57:10 +0000
 Subject: [***SPAM*** Score/Req: 8.0/6.0] Re: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at 
sea?


This whole ordeal reeks of incompetence, let's hope that once the facts come 
out its not.

 The boat catches fire between Mexico and Galveston and they tow it with no 
power across the Gulf for 4 days to Mobile?  What about Galveston or Houston 
to get the people off?

 Cause of the localized fire is now pegged at fuel return line for engine #6 
put out by the fire suppression system.  Why aren't the other engines and 
generators running?

 There is a second generator room but yet those generators weren't running 
either. What's up with that?

 Too many questions, no answers.  Doubt Lucas played a part on the Triumph.

 Lou
 72 Pimento


 ------Original Message------
 From: im sloane
 Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
 To: TR-6 list
 Subject: Re: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
 Sent: Feb 19, 2013 8:44 AM

 The reported reason for the fire was an oil line leak. Just thought you 
guys
 with an oil-cooler might want to make a note of that.

 Sloane :o)
 69-Six


 > Subject: [6pack] Prince of Darkness at sea?
 >
 > So, I guess we're the only ones that would think that a big boat named
 TRIUMPH
 > having electrical problems is kinda funny.
 >
 > No offence intended to anyone having friends/family on-board, but I
 couldn't
 > resist.
 >
 > Sloane :o)
 > 69-Six

From dave at ranteer.com  Sat Feb 23 11:57:55 2013
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 12:57:55 -0600
Subject: [6pack] triple carb nightmare
Message-ID: <B411DC5D8F864E99B0F07D73903A9B54@Datsun>

in the last couple of weeks, I had submitted a description of a problem of 1
carb misbehaving while the other 2 seemed just fine.

some of you had requested to learn of the final disposition.

my mechanic had a different result when he swapped 1 & 3.  for him, carb in
location 3 still had issues

he pulled off the manifolds, and discovered a crumbling gasket underneath,
which, btw, was a high performance gasket I had paid extra for!

and, he also discovered that there were leaks in the throttle shafts of 1 and
2 (we had replaced 3 already)


I have two bits of advice after this adventure

1.  if you are going to have your carbs rebuilt (this mechanic did mine, but
did not replace the throttle shafts), pay the money to have paltech do it.
the carbs will come back gorgeous, and all the bits and pieces will have been
replaced, tested, and will work.  in the long run, it wonbt cost more.  and
they will be pretty!  now, to be fair to my mechanic, I took off the carbs,
gave them to him, and put them back on myself.  he had no way to test them.

2. if you replace a part on one assembly (such as a throttle shaft on a carb),
do them all.

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Sat Feb 23 15:43:48 2013
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian J. Alwin)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2013 16:43:48 -0600
Subject: [6pack] triple carb nightmare
In-Reply-To: <B411DC5D8F864E99B0F07D73903A9B54@Datsun>
References: <B411DC5D8F864E99B0F07D73903A9B54@Datsun>
Message-ID: <000e01ce1217$3f2721c0$bd756540$@asmoothmove.biz>

I concur. Paltech's work is fantastic.

Brian

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2013 12:58 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] triple carb nightmare

in the last couple of weeks, I had submitted a description of a problem of 1
carb misbehaving while the other 2 seemed just fine.

some of you had requested to learn of the final disposition.

my mechanic had a different result when he swapped 1 & 3.  for him, carb in
location 3 still had issues

he pulled off the manifolds, and discovered a crumbling gasket underneath,
which, btw, was a high performance gasket I had paid extra for!

and, he also discovered that there were leaks in the throttle shafts of 1
and
2 (we had replaced 3 already)


I have two bits of advice after this adventure

1.  if you are going to have your carbs rebuilt (this mechanic did mine, but
did not replace the throttle shafts), pay the money to have paltech do it.
the carbs will come back gorgeous, and all the bits and pieces will have
been replaced, tested, and will work.  in the long run, it wonbt cost more.
and they will be pretty!  now, to be fair to my mechanic, I took off the
carbs, gave them to him, and put them back on myself.  he had no way to test
them.

2. if you replace a part on one assembly (such as a throttle shaft on a
carb), do them all.

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