From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Wed Apr 3 10:47:31 2013 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 12:47:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alignment Sanity Check Message-ID: <000e01ce308a$eefcd450$ccf67cf0$@earthlink.net> Hello, I just got around to putting my TR6 on an alignment rack. It was a frame-off restoration. I currently have 2 shims under each front wishbone attachment and 3 shims behind each Goodparts adjustable trailing arm bracket. All measurements are in degrees. My camber is: LF: -0.9 RF: -1.0 LR: -1.1 RR: -1.2 My rear toe is: LR: 0.24 RR: -0.17 My ride heights in inches, measured at the center of the wheel arch, are: LF: 26.5 RF: 26.5 LR: 27.5 RR: 28.0 Visually, the car is clearly leaning toward the drivers side in back even when my fat body isnt behind the wheel. The springs are new Goodparts front and rear, with spacers and packing pieces in front and spacers but no upper packing in the rear. My plan is to remove one shim from each front wishbone packing piece in the front. In the rear, I plan to rotate the left inner trailing arm adjustor counter-clockwise three full turns. This should raise the fulcrum and add > degrees of positive camber. On the right rear, I want to lower the car as much as possible, so I plan to turn both adjustors counter-clockwise (raising the pivots) an equal amount until one adjustor is at its limit of travel. Then I will turn the outer adjustor clockwise three full turns to lower the outer pivot and add > degrees of positive camber. After I tighten the adjustors, I will loosen the outer trailing arm bracket mounts and remove one shim from the right and add one shim to the left. (Positive rear toe is toe-in, Im told.) My brain hurts from thinking about it! Do I have the adjustments right? Thanks for your help, as always. Tom CC55483L www.triumphowners.com/735 From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Apr 3 11:45:40 2013 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 13:45:40 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Alignment Sanity Check In-Reply-To: <000e01ce308a$eefcd450$ccf67cf0$@earthlink.net> References: <000e01ce308a$eefcd450$ccf67cf0$@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hi, Your plan regarding the camber settings is sound. My advice is to make small changes and measure and make sure to "settle" the car between reading to make sure you don't over-shoot the target numbers. The rear toe, on the other hand needs to be addressed. With those numbers, your "thrust angle" has to be wrong. Even though the total toe-in is small, the +.24 on the driver side seems excessive. So, you might want to address that. Keep in mind that the TR6 IRS toe in increases as the suspension compresses, so don't go crazy here. But a quarter-inch toe out on one side is going to translate to EVIL handling. The other part of your plan concerns me. If you try to get the car flat and level with no driver, the handling is going to suck. That's because you're going to throw out cross weights for "curb appeal". The TR6 with LHD has a considerable weight bias to the left side of the car, so you want to accomodate that in your eventual ride-height and camber / toe settings. But if you don't "drive" the car, ignore the weight bias thing even though you can make the car a dog to drive. I'm just sayin. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Wed Apr 3 17:43:16 2013 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Wed, 3 Apr 2013 19:43:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alignment Sanity Check Message-ID: <003e01ce30c5$03803ef0$0a80bcd0$@earthlink.net> Thanks to all who replied. I spent a busy day under my car I removed all 8 shims from the lower wishbones in front, per Kevin Andrews suggestion. This should give me = degree less negative camber in front, which would put me in spec. (By the way, is the wishbone bracket to frame attachment torque really just 20-25 ft-lbs? It seemed awfully low, compared to the rear brackets.) I took one shim out of the right outboard trailing arm bracket and put it in front of the left outboard bracket. That should reduce or eliminate my right toe-out and reduce my left toe-in. I turned all the trailing arm bracket adjusters counterclockwise, working my way from left to right, by 1,4,10,and 7 turns. In theory, this should add 3/4 of a degree of camber to the rear, and lower the right side of the car. Unfortunately, I took the car out for a drive, and after the suspension settled, the right rear was = HIGHER than before. Ill have to review the instructions that come with the Goodparts brackets, because I seem to have screwed it up. Anyway, Im back to the alignment rack tomorrow, so well see what happened. Cheers, Tom All political thinking for years past has been vitiated in the same way. People can foresee the future only when it coincides with their own wishes, and the most grossly obvious facts can be ignored when they are unwelcome. George Orwell From paradigm_inc at comcast.net Fri Apr 5 00:08:48 2013 From: paradigm_inc at comcast.net (Jim Hinckley) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 06:08:48 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Wilton Wool Carpet Set Message-ID: <007301ce036f$3d0739e0$b715ada0$@net> I'm getting ready to replace my carpet and would like recommendations. From wcwellbaum at cox.net Fri Apr 5 06:46:50 2013 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 05:46:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Wilton Wool Carpet Set References: <007301ce036f$3d0739e0$b715ada0$@net> Message-ID: <52BA9E954AD44A3AB69551102D9F6F81@office> I used the wool carpet set from TRF--great fit, great quality. NFI. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Hinckley" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2013 12:05 AM Subject: [6pack] Wilton Wool Carpet Set > I'm getting ready to replace my carpet and would like recommendations. > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Fri Apr 5 12:26:10 2013 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Fri, 5 Apr 2013 18:26:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wilton Wool Carpet Set Message-ID: Jim, I too have replaced my carpet with the Wilton wool set from TRF and was very pleased with the outcome. Mike Corvallis, OR From dctr6 at optonline.net Fri Apr 5 12:35:00 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Fri, 05 Apr 2013 14:35:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Windshield from Moss Message-ID: <001b01ce322c$47e6f030$d7b4d090$@net> Folks - I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013. It's for my TR6 but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc. Well, it doesn't fit a TR6. The glass was cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a replacement & it is hoped that it will fit. Just a word of caution. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Apr 9 14:38:37 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Tue, 09 Apr 2013 16:38:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: Windshield from Moss - Follow up Message-ID: <000301ce3562$36855d20$a3901760$@net> I wrote: > I bought a windshield from Moss Motors back in January 2013. It's for my TR6 >but it says it also fits TR4, Spits, GT6s, etc. Well, it doesn't fit a TR6. The glass was >cut unevenly and the passenger side is too tall. Moss is sending a replacement & >it is hoped that it will fit. Just a word of caution. The new windshield arrived and it fits just fine. No idea how the other one got cut wrong. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U PS. Someone asked if it's a Triplex - no, it's not. From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 11 02:45:54 2013 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 11 Apr 2013 02:45:54 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 22 and counting Message-ID: <51667842.8040200@bradakis.com> April 11th, 1991 - Team.Net becomes an official domain. For a few years before that, though, the basic foundation was getting built up. It has been a long ride from those days until now. We are still here. And we can continue on for who knows how many more years? If you'd like to help Team.Net continue, consider putting a few dollars towards keeping it on the air: http://www.team.net/donations.html mjb. From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon Apr 15 10:02:47 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 12:02:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings Message-ID: <000601ce39f2$ac8c0750$05a415f0$@net> After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or hanging up) . I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts # 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)). I also have a copy of the article "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye Triumphs site. I have a pretty good idea how difficult these bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the car and it's not coming out. My questions are: Can I presume that at almost 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as long? Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go? Any other bright ideas? I do NOT want to have to do this again. Thanks for your insight and any help you can provide. Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I can see clearly now.")) From dctr6 at optonline.net Mon Apr 15 13:43:02 2013 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Mon, 15 Apr 2013 15:43:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Thanks all (was FW: TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings) Message-ID: <000901ce3a11$71c42ca0$554c85e0$@net> OK, OK, I've gotten numerous responses and they are all saying the same thing - Art Lipp's Delrin accelerator shaft bushings. I've written a check and it will be in the mail tomorrow. Thanks list (and thanks to Mark Bradakis for making all this possible). Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (soon to have Delrin bushings). From: Dennis Culligan [mailto:dctr6 at optonline.net] Sent: Monday, April 15, 2013 12:03 PM To: '6pack at autox.team.net'; 'triumphs at autox.team.net' Subject: TR6 Accelerator shaft bushings After having my accelerator stick (why does it always stick ON and not OFF?), it appears I may need to replace the accelerator shaft bushings on my TR6 (all other parts of the carb linkages are new and/or not sticking or hanging up) . I have looked at both the MOSS catalog (part # 676-000 along with the Supplemental Info and Instructions) and the TRF website (parts # 138490 (nylon) and 138490/U (urethane)). I also have a copy of the article "Fabricating East-to-Install Accelerator Shaft Bearings" from the Buckeye Triumphs site. I have a pretty good idea how difficult these bearings/bushings will be to install especially since the engine is in the car and it's not coming out. My questions are: Can I presume that at almost 3x the price of the nylon bushing, the TRF urethane bushing will last 3x as long? Will the Urethane bushing be even more difficult to install? If I know a machinist that can fabricate the parts, is brass the best way to go? Any other bright ideas? I do NOT want to have to do this again. Thanks for your insight and any help you can provide. Dennis Culligan. Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U (with a new windshield ("I can see clearly now.")) From colinthom at shaw.ca Wed Apr 17 14:57:52 2013 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 13:57:52 -0700 Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL Message-ID: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca> Hi Listers, So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but how does one drain the thing?? Colin Thom '75 From j.honor at comcast.net Wed Apr 17 16:20:00 2013 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 17:20:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL In-Reply-To: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca> References: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca> Message-ID: <7974E403-4589-46C8-8127-0291DC984E2C@comcast.net> Need to have one tapped into bottom of case no TR6 has them but TR4 do for reference Regards Joe Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone On Apr 17, 2013, at 3:57 PM, "Colin Thom" wrote: > Hi Listers, > > > > So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff > oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the > restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the > level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said > plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but > how does one drain the thing?? > > > > Colin Thom '75 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net From wcwellbaum at cox.net Wed Apr 17 16:35:54 2013 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (wcwellbaum at cox.net) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 22:35:54 +0000 (GMT) Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL Message-ID: <19d2150.6676.13e1a23cea0.Webtop.0@cox.net> Well, either have a drain plug tapped into the bottom of the diff or play like you're siphoning gas out of a tank with a length of plastic tubing. Nothing like the taste of 90 wgt. gear lube in the morning. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Colin Thom wrote: > Hi Listers, > > > So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my > diff > oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the > restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the > level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out > said > plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, > but > how does one drain the thing?? > > > Colin Thom '75 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net From lfm614 at aol.com Wed Apr 17 17:03:20 2013 From: lfm614 at aol.com (Lfmaol) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 18:03:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL In-Reply-To: <19d2150.6676.13e1a23cea0.Webtop.0@cox.net> References: <19d2150.6676.13e1a23cea0.Webtop.0@cox.net> Message-ID: Actually the easiest way is to go to Harbor Freight and buy a small transfer pump that has hoses small enough to fit through the hole. You can use it to pump out the old and pump in the new oil. Same works for topping off the tranny. Think that they are less than $10 and they have 20% off coupons all the time, this what I did. http://www.harborfreight.com/multi-use-transfer-pump-66418.html Lou 72 Pimento On Apr 17, 2013, at 5:35 PM, wcwellbaum at cox.net wrote: > Well, either have a drain plug tapped into the bottom of the diff or play like you're siphoning gas out of a tank with a length of plastic tubing. Nothing like the taste of 90 wgt. gear lube in the morning. > > Bill Wellbaum > British Auto Club of Las Vegas > baclv.org > > On Wed, Apr 17, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Colin Thom wrote: > >> Hi Listers, >> >> >> So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff >> oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the >> restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the >> level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said >> plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but >> how does one drain the thing?? >> >> >> Colin Thom '75 >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Wed Apr 17 18:15:00 2013 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Wed, 17 Apr 2013 20:15:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL In-Reply-To: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca> References: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca> Message-ID: <025b01ce3bc9$c4de4790$4e9ad6b0$@sylvancircle.org> Remove the cover, unfortunately. And while the cover is off, tap it for a (magnetic) drain plug! > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack- > bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Colin Thom > Sent: Wednesday, April 17, 2013 4:58 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL > > Hi Listers, > > > > So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff > oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the > restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the > level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said > plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but how > does one drain the thing?? > > > > Colin Thom '75 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aldwyn at sylvancircle.org From cartravel at pobox.com Thu Apr 18 13:30:56 2013 From: cartravel at pobox.com (Larry Young) Date: Thu, 18 Apr 2013 14:30:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] CHANGING DIFF OIL In-Reply-To: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca> References: <003101ce3bae$3a5106a0$aef313e0$@ca> Message-ID: <517049F0.4040908@pobox.com> The pump I've used since I got my TR250 in1968 looks like a small bicycle pump. You pull the plunger back to suck the oil out, which is good for your triceps. I have another pump that screws into the top of the oil container that I use for filling. Larry Young On 4/17/2013 3:57 PM, Colin Thom wrote: > Hi Listers, > > > > So being the ontopofmaintenance guy that I am, I figured I'd change my diff > oil. Behold..no drain plug! I dimly remember this from when I put the > restored car back on the road 9 years and 16,000 miles ago. I know the > level's up to the fill plug because some oil weeps out when I pull out said > plug and the oil looks pretty good so I guess I don't have a problem, but > how does one drain the thing?? > > > > Colin Thom '75 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cartravel at pobox.com From colinthom at shaw.ca Sat Apr 20 12:18:11 2013 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Sat, 20 Apr 2013 11:18:11 -0700 Subject: [6pack] tr6 dash brace Message-ID: <000301ce3df3$6ae4cd50$40ae67f0$@ca> Hi Gang, I've scored a great original radio but now need an un-butchered dash brace. The one I thought I had turned out to be butchered. Does anybody out there have one? Thanks for your help. Colin Thom '75 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Apr 22 08:16:44 2013 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000 Subject: [6pack] seat cover options Message-ID: Hi guys, two questions: Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and fit, for a 70-72 seat? Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how original looking is the diamond pattern? thanks, Sloane :o) 69-Six (with 70-72 seats, DPO) From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Apr 22 10:35:35 2013 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Yahoo) Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 09:35:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Spring engine start-up Advice Message-ID: <1366648535.81810.YahooMailNeo@web121606.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Winter came very early and sudden here last fall and my car didn't get properly put to bed. Shell V Power (no ethanol) in tank, carbs and lines, but w/o fuel stabilizer. Do I simply start her up and hope for the best, or run SeaFoam through the tank, spray carb cleaner in, or something? I'll spray some fogging oil in each spark plug hole, as I should have in the fall, to help with the dry start-up. Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 with SU HS6, stock fuel pump From emanteno at comcast.net Tue Apr 23 07:01:29 2013 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 23 Apr 2013 08:01:29 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Paging Original Owners of TR250's and TR6's Message-ID: Good morning, If you are the original owner of your TR250 or TR6, please contact me *OFF LIST*. I am working on a project for the 6-Pack magazine. THANK YOU, Irv Korey original owner CF22767U Highland Park, IL From apackard68 at att.net Wed Apr 24 13:01:29 2013 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 24 Apr 2013 12:01:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR250 Engine block pronounced DOA by machine shop Message-ID: <1366830089.60289.YahooMailRC@web181102.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> B Hello Friends. I am now in need of a replacement six cylinder block for my every day and autocrossing TR250. Apparently my cam wore the block so bad it created a crack.B It did not have cam bearings and was likely starved of oil when I was dealing with a bad oil pump last year. I sold a GT6 block a short time ago and I knowB a fellow club memberB just got rid of one.B Anyone out there with a spare sitting around to sell and close to Northern California?B I don't need any of the guts or peripherals and can return all parts after disassembly if wanted.B Please letB me know if you can help.B I'd love to have the car running again for a club-hosted June autocross. Andy Packard 925 577 7704 __._,_.___ Reply via web post Reply to sender Reply to group Start a New Topic Messages in this topic (1) Recent Activity: Visit Your Group MARKETPLACE ________________________________ ________________________________ Switch to: Text-Only, Daily Digest b" Unsubscribe b" Terms of Use b" Send us Feedback . __,_._,___ From colinthom at shaw.ca Thu Apr 25 09:58:52 2013 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 08:58:52 -0700 Subject: [6pack] dropping idle Message-ID: <002001ce41cd$c8705830$59510890$@ca> Hi Gang, All is well when I first bring the engine down to idle from speed, but it will only hold a nice 800-ish idle for a few seconds before dropping to 5-600 rpm and starting to sound like it's gonna croak. All I've done recently is change the fuel filter. I did notice when I did that, that the new filter wasn't holding fuel at first but now it seems OK. When I installed the new filter, I did operate the fuel pump primer manually and noticed that I wasn't able to fill the filter with fuel. Knowing that the carbs were full and the engine warm, I just started the engine and it was fine. The engine runs fine.the car goes like hell. It just doesn't idle right and this is a new thing. All air hose connections are tight, there's oil in the dashpots, K&N air cleaners are freshly cleaned. Carbs are synchronized. Throttle response is excellent and mixture is OK. Cam has a slightly warmed up "street" profile, hence preferred idle speed of 800-900. One day it was all sweet but a fuel filter change later, it ain't. Any ideas? Might I have a failing fuel pump that is assisted somehow by high engine rpm so I only see a problem at idle? Thanks for all suggestions, Colin '75 From apackard68 at att.net Thu Apr 25 10:19:23 2013 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 09:19:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Engine block search status Message-ID: <1366906763.79952.YahooMailRC@web181101.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Thanks to everyone for overwhelming response. I'll be picking up a TR250 block in nearby Folsom, CA this weekend and hopefully it checks out at the machine shop. If it doesn't, I'll likely be contacting the other offers I rec'd. Nice to know there is so much support for a fellow enthusiast in a pinch! Andy Packard From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Apr 25 13:03:56 2013 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 19:03:56 +0000 Subject: [6pack] seat cover options In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi guys, A bump on this one and another quick question. I know this is a long shot, but a 250 & 69-6 have a magnet in the fuel lid, which I have never possessed. Does anybody happen to have one in their junk box? And I don't want a later lid, thanks. And, hasn't anybody on list used the VB seat recover kit? thanks, Sloane :) 69-Six (with always a slightly gasey smell in the boot) > From: im_sloane at hotmail.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000 > Subject: [6pack] seat cover options > > Hi guys, two questions: > > Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and fit, for > a 70-72 seat? > > Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how > original looking is the diamond pattern? From djfidler at rogers.com Thu Apr 25 13:46:06 2013 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Thu, 25 Apr 2013 15:46:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] seat cover options In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sloane, I don't have a spare 69 cap, but Im told that early Spitfire and GT6 caps are the same. Re: smell if gas in boot. Never fill your tank to the top because the neck is rubber and the clamps come loose and leak. Also, there is a felt mat under the tank to stop rattles and vibration, this collects spills and fumes over the years and I recommend replacing it with something like Dynamat that is non-absorbent. The tank is easy to remove and you can also check for rust and ok holes while it is out. Best regards, David (Fid) Sent from my iPhone On Apr 25, 2013, at 3:03 PM, im sloane wrote: > Hi guys, > A bump on this one and another quick question. > > I know this is a long shot, but a 250 & 69-6 have a magnet in the fuel lid, > which I have never possessed. Does anybody happen to have one in their junk > box? And I don't want a later lid, thanks. > > And, hasn't anybody on list used the VB seat recover kit? > > thanks, > Sloane :) > 69-Six (with always a slightly gasey smell in the boot) > > >> From: im_sloane at hotmail.com >> To: 6pack at autox.team.net >> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000 >> Subject: [6pack] seat cover options >> >> Hi guys, two questions: >> >> Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and fit, > for >> a 70-72 seat? >> >> Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how >> original looking is the diamond pattern? > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From alansalvy at gmail.com Fri Apr 26 00:41:12 2013 From: alansalvy at gmail.com (alan salvatore) Date: Fri, 26 Apr 2013 02:41:12 -0400 Subject: [6pack] seat cover options In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The V.B. seat pattern looks original to me. Al On Thu, Apr 25, 2013 at 3:46 PM, David Fidler wrote: > Sloane, > > I don't have a spare 69 cap, but Im told that early Spitfire and GT6 caps > are > the same. > > Re: smell if gas in boot. Never fill your tank to the top because the neck > is > rubber and the clamps come loose and leak. Also, there is a felt mat under > the > tank to stop rattles and vibration, this collects spills and fumes over the > years and I recommend replacing it with something like Dynamat that is > non-absorbent. The tank is easy to remove and you can also check for rust > and > ok holes while it is out. > > Best regards, > > David (Fid) > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Apr 25, 2013, at 3:03 PM, im sloane wrote: > > > Hi guys, > > A bump on this one and another quick question. > > > > I know this is a long shot, but a 250 & 69-6 have a magnet in the fuel > lid, > > which I have never possessed. Does anybody happen to have one in their > junk > > box? And I don't want a later lid, thanks. > > > > And, hasn't anybody on list used the VB seat recover kit? > > > > thanks, > > Sloane :) > > 69-Six (with always a slightly gasey smell in the boot) > > > > > >> From: im_sloane at hotmail.com > >> To: 6pack at autox.team.net > >> Date: Mon, 22 Apr 2013 14:16:44 +0000 > >> Subject: [6pack] seat cover options > >> > >> Hi guys, two questions: > >> > >> Has anybody had any luck with a cheap seat cover, regarding look and > fit, > > for > >> a 70-72 seat? > >> > >> Has anybody used the Victoria British seat recovering kit, and if so how > >> original looking is the diamond pattern? > > > > ________________________________________ > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alansalvy at gmail.com From dave at ranteer.com Sun Apr 28 21:47:57 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave at ranteer.com) Date: Sun, 28 Apr 2013 20:47:57 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Oil filter Message-ID: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> I feel foolish for even asking this. I have a wix filter on my car, and I'm getting ready to change the oil. Apparently I have the correct filter number for the hondas, my daughters Z, and some cars I no longer even own! But I dont have the one for the tr6 (it has a spin on adapter). I could remove the old one, and then get the number and go to the flaps. But it would be really nice if someone could help me out here. Thanks! From sakirsis at consolidated.net Mon Apr 29 05:02:00 2013 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 07:02:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <201304291102.062181@ms01.consolidated.net> Dave, Do-not have the Wix # but I highly recommend the K and N because of the ease of getting it on or off with the 1" wrench nut. #HP-2009. Cross references to FRAM PH3600/DG3600. Purolator L20195/ L35098. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson From djfidler at rogers.com Mon Apr 29 05:45:10 2013 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 07:45:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] (no subject) In-Reply-To: <201304291102.062181@ms01.consolidated.net> References: <201304291102.062181@ms01.consolidated.net> Message-ID: <45A2BDD8-5326-4235-A311-12BC189911CE@rogers.com> Just make sure it has the bypass valve in it. When you change to a spin on, you lose this feature, so you need a replacement filter with it built in. There are several threads on the 6-pack forums about this, including numbers etc. Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Apr 29, 2013, at 7:02 AM, kirsis stephen wrote: > Dave, Do-not have the Wix # but I highly recommend the K and N because of the > ease of getting it on or off with the 1" wrench nut. #HP-2009. Cross references to > FRAM PH3600/DG3600. Purolator L20195/ L35098. > Steve Kirsis '70 Damson > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From jmcoh at comcast.net Mon Apr 29 06:19:34 2013 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 08:19:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Oil filter In-Reply-To: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> References: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> Message-ID: <01cb01ce44d3$cfafb470$6f0f1d50$@net> Dave, The WIX is 51516 it is the exact same filter as the NAPA Gold #1516, the K & N is HP2009 John Cohen -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave at ranteer.com Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:48 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Oil filter I feel foolish for even asking this. I have a wix filter on my car, and I'm getting ready to change the oil. Apparently I have the correct filter number for the hondas, my daughters Z, and some cars I no longer even own! But I dont have the one for the tr6 (it has a spin on adapter). I could remove the old one, and then get the number and go to the flaps. But it would be really nice if someone could help me out here. Thanks! From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Apr 29 06:45:02 2013 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 08:45:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Oil filter In-Reply-To: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> References: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> Message-ID: This is the list I have used, which came originally from a 6-pack member... Oil filters to fit the screw adapter AC PF-56 AC PF952 (short) AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A Bosch 72-143 Bosch 72129 (short) Bosch 72161 CarQuest 85516 Champion C104 (short) Crosland 529 (short) Fram PH3512 (short) Fram PH-3600 (Fram PH-3614) Full PH-400 Halfords HOF200 (short) K&N HP-2009 Kralinator L38 Lee LF-42 Mann W719/36 Mobil-1 M1-209 Moss 235-950 Motaquip VFL123 (short) Motorcraft FL-276 Motorcraft FL-313 (short) Motorcraft FL400A NAPA Gold 1516 NAPA Gold 1361 Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101) Purolator L20064 Purolator L20195 Sears 45197 STP SO-400 Unipart GFE173 (short) Unipart GFE443 Wix 51335 (short) Wix 51516 John North 1976 TR6 On Sun, Apr 28, 2013 at 11:47 PM, wrote: > I feel foolish for even asking this. I have a wix filter on my car, and I'm > getting ready to change the oil. Apparently I have the correct filter number > for the hondas, my daughters Z, and some cars I no longer even own! But I > dont have the one for the tr6 (it has a spin on adapter). I could remove the > old one, and then get the number and go to the flaps. But it would be really > nice if someone could help me out here. > > Thanks! > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/johncnorth at gmail.com From dave at ranteer.com Mon Apr 29 09:13:32 2013 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 29 Apr 2013 10:13:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Oil filter In-Reply-To: References: <20130428204757.eacca00412c4e976446146f9b5e47255.be6e24ca39.mailapi@mailapi06.secureserver.net> Message-ID: I've taken John's list and put it on my web site for those interested: http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/filters/ -----Original Message----- From: John North Sent: Monday, April 29, 2013 7:45 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil filter