From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Mar 2 19:56:06 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Fri, 2 Mar 2012 20:56:06 -0600 Subject: [6pack] church in Vicksburg Message-ID: <117A356B828542578F3853B66AA96019@ranteer.local> we photoshopped the logo in. looks like it belongs, don't you think? www.ranteer.com/misc From brian at asmoothmove.biz Fri Mar 9 09:06:01 2012 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 10:06:01 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Combustion Chambers Message-ID: <007a01ccfe0e$86c9a160$945ce420$@biz> I thought I would share with you another confirmation of a cure for pinging found both in the 6-pack archives and in Kastner's Competition Preparation Manual. A 1972 engine with a total of .125" shaved (.075" when rebuilt in '04 and another .050" 4 years ago) to bring the compression up to 10.1 (measured via liquid cc method). Changing timing and fuels never made a real difference, however smoothing out all the sharp edges in the combustion chamber has yielded excellent results. No pinging or run-on, period. Being fairly new to the Triumph brand when I originally rebuilt the engine, I thought just shaving the head, a hot cam and headers would bring significantly more power. Wrong! Making power with these engines is more complex than with the American V-8's of which I was previously familiar. I went back to original cam and exhaust four years ago, but until now the pinging remained. Your mileage may vary. Brian J. Alwin 1972 TR6 CC79085 From brian at asmoothmove.biz Fri Mar 9 10:27:35 2012 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 11:27:35 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber In-Reply-To: <4F5A35C2.3070205@sri.com> References: <4F5A35C2.3070205@sri.com> Message-ID: <009d01ccfe19$ebaf6640$c30e32c0$@biz> Cregg: I think 9.25 is smart. You should have less trouble with fuel and timing than I did. Attached are two pictures. One shows the chamber after the work was done and the marked-up version highlights the edges that were rounded out. The rounding/smoothing was very modest - not a lot of material was removed, just enough to take off the sharp edges. Please warn your machine shop to be very careful not to encroach onto the gasket sealing area when they are using the die grinder, particularly between the cylinders. Cylinders 1 and 2, 5 and 6 are VERY close together and you don't want to mess up that narrow sealing surface between them. A good shop will take steps to ensure that the sealing surfaces are protected by an errant die grinder hit. May I say as long as your head is being worked on, I strongly recommend having hardened exhaust seats installed. This eliminates the worry over unleaded fuel and your exhaust valves. I even went with installing brass (or bronze?) guides on the exhaust side as another upgrade. Brian J. Alwin 1972 TR6 CC79085 -----Original Message----- From: Cregg Cowan [mailto:cregg.cowan at sri.com] Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:54 AM To: brian at asmoothmove.biz Subject: TR6 Combustion Chamber Hi Brian, It so happens that I have my '73 head off right now for valve work and decided to have it shaved (to a more modest 9.25 CR). Can you point to a description of which sharp edges need to be removed? I have the Comp Prep guide but haven't studied as carefully as I should, I guess. Thanks! Cregg Mountain View, Calif. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of marked up.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Photo549.jpg] From bratt at sasktel.net Fri Mar 9 10:36:23 2012 From: bratt at sasktel.net (EdB) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 11:36:23 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Combustion Chambers References: <007a01ccfe0e$86c9a160$945ce420$@biz> Message-ID: <002601ccfe1b$26bf11d0$6401a8c0@willscomputer> Brian: You might find this MG (sorry) site of interest as it is supposed to stop pinging. . I first learned abiut grooving a cylinder head from an article in " Farm Show " paper Ed Bratt Regina Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:06 AM Subject: [6pack] Combustion Chambers >I thought I would share with you another confirmation of a cure for pinging > found both in the 6-pack archives and in Kastner's Competition Preparation > Manual. > > > > A 1972 engine with a total of .125" shaved (.075" when rebuilt in '04 and > another .050" 4 years ago) to bring the compression up to 10.1 (measured > via > liquid cc method). Changing timing and fuels never made a real difference, > however smoothing out all the sharp edges in the combustion chamber has > yielded excellent > > results. No pinging or run-on, period. > > > > Being fairly new to the Triumph brand when I originally rebuilt the > engine, > I thought just shaving the head, a hot cam and headers would bring > significantly more power. Wrong! Making power with these engines is more > complex than with the American V-8's of which I was previously familiar. I > went back to original cam and exhaust four years ago, but until now the > pinging remained. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > > > Brian J. Alwin > > 1972 TR6 CC79085 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net > > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4860 - Release Date: 03/09/12 From bratt at sasktel.net Fri Mar 9 11:57:05 2012 From: bratt at sasktel.net (EdB) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 12:57:05 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Combustion Chambers References: <007a01ccfe0e$86c9a160$945ce420$@biz> Message-ID: <003501ccfe26$6d12c220$6401a8c0@willscomputer> Brian: Sorry for sending the message without the link. http://www.mgccars.com/grooved-head-information.html Ed Bratt Regina, Sask 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:06 AM Subject: [6pack] Combustion Chambers >I thought I would share with you another confirmation of a cure for pinging > found both in the 6-pack archives and in Kastner's Competition Preparation > Manual. > > > > A 1972 engine with a total of .125" shaved (.075" when rebuilt in '04 and > another .050" 4 years ago) to bring the compression up to 10.1 (measured > via > liquid cc method). Changing timing and fuels never made a real difference, > however smoothing out all the sharp edges in the combustion chamber has > yielded excellent > > results. No pinging or run-on, period. > > > > Being fairly new to the Triumph brand when I originally rebuilt the > engine, > I thought just shaving the head, a hot cam and headers would bring > significantly more power. Wrong! Making power with these engines is more > complex than with the American V-8's of which I was previously familiar. I > went back to original cam and exhaust four years ago, but until now the > pinging remained. > > > > Your mileage may vary. > > > > Brian J. Alwin > > 1972 TR6 CC79085 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net > > > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 2012.0.1913 / Virus Database: 2114/4860 - Release Date: 03/09/12 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Mar 9 13:28:52 2012 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 09 Mar 2012 20:28:52 GMT Subject: [6pack] Sharpness after head milling Message-ID: Brian---I would agree that sharpness after having a head milled must be dealt with. I was disappointed to find this very thing after having .120 taken from the head of a friend's '72 TR6. It took an hour or so going over the head with an Arkansas stone to break down the edges, esp. around the sparkplug holes. As you and others have noted, it's easy to over-cam the TR6 engine, with disappointing results. Cams that come on too high in the rpm band takes away from the city driving responsiveness that we like. (However, these cams with long valve overlap do help control detonation.) There's a lot that's been written about coming up with a nice combination for adding useful power to the 6. One area that's not mentioned enough (I think) is the proper air/fuel ratio. Too much fuel per air reduces power, and is also wasteful. To avoid this, or at least know what is taking place, I'd suggest installing an 02 sensor in the exhaust, along with a monitor viewable somewhere in the cockpit. (See attached photo for one idea). Don't bother with this if your engine is stock, or lightly modified. If you're into changing needles, then.... Dick '73 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image1.jpg] From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Fri Mar 9 18:31:38 2012 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Fri, 9 Mar 2012 20:31:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber In-Reply-To: <009d01ccfe19$ebaf6640$c30e32c0$@biz> References: <4F5A35C2.3070205@sri.com>,<009d01ccfe19$ebaf6640$c30e32c0$@biz> Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01584E0DBB93@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Once again the "unleaded gas" boogie man. Many years ago when I purchased a '60 TR-3A, which I still possess, (it was used) I asked Bob Tullius, who worked at the Triumph dealer at the time, and who was sponsored by Triumph, what was the best gas. He emphatically stated "use Amoco unleaded. It costs a bit more, but is the very best for the engine." I have had a valve or two burn over the years (poor valve clearance set by the shop!) but never a problem with recessed valves. I still have a couple of original heads in the basement that never needed any work on the valve seats. I'm about to pitch them. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of brian at asmoothmove.biz [brian at asmoothmove.biz] Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 12:27 PM To: 'Cregg Cowan' Cc: '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber Cregg: I think 9.25 is smart. You should have less trouble with fuel and timing than I did. Attached are two pictures. One shows the chamber after the work was done and the marked-up version highlights the edges that were rounded out. The rounding/smoothing was very modest - not a lot of material was removed, just enough to take off the sharp edges. Please warn your machine shop to be very careful not to encroach onto the gasket sealing area when they are using the die grinder, particularly between the cylinders. Cylinders 1 and 2, 5 and 6 are VERY close together and you don't want to mess up that narrow sealing surface between them. A good shop will take steps to ensure that the sealing surfaces are protected by an errant die grinder hit. May I say as long as your head is being worked on, I strongly recommend having hardened exhaust seats installed. This eliminates the worry over unleaded fuel and your exhaust valves. I even went with installing brass (or bronze?) guides on the exhaust side as another upgrade. Brian J. Alwin 1972 TR6 CC79085 -----Original Message----- From: Cregg Cowan [mailto:cregg.cowan at sri.com] Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:54 AM To: brian at asmoothmove.biz Subject: TR6 Combustion Chamber Hi Brian, It so happens that I have my '73 head off right now for valve work and decided to have it shaved (to a more modest 9.25 CR). Can you point to a description of which sharp edges need to be removed? I have the Comp Prep guide but haven't studied as carefully as I should, I guess. Thanks! Cregg Mountain View, Calif. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of marked up.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Photo549.jpg] ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Mar 9 23:18:59 2012 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 06:18:59 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber Message-ID: I'm with the group that's never had a problem with valve seat recession. Approx. 150,000 miles on the engine since tetraethyl was phased out, here in Ca. in the late eighties. For those concerned that this could happen to your engine, know that recession will cause the valve lash to "get smaller". A check of clearances now and then will confirm this. I don't use any of the Lead-o-matic juices either. Most (all?) of the 6's come with the Stellite exhaust valve faces, so that's another plus. Dick From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Sat Mar 10 05:10:15 2012 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 07:10:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01584E0DBB95@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> As far as engines are concerned there is a big problem with the leaded gas. Over time you get major buildup of lead deposits on the valves themselves, not to mention within the head also. The exhaust passages can become so coated that it reduces exhaust flow. You also get deposits in the compression chamber that leads to dieseling. ________________________________________ From: Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 1:18 AM To: Ruffner, James A *HS; brian@; 'Cregg Cowan' Cc: '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber I'm with the group that's never had a problem with valve seat recession. Approx. 150,000 miles on the engine since tetraethyl was phased out, here in Ca. in the late eighties. For those concerned that this could happen to your engine, know that recession will cause the valve lash to "get smaller". A check of clearances now and then will confirm this. I don't use any of the Lead-o-matic juices either. Most (all?) of the 6's come with the Stellite exhaust valve faces, so that's another plus. Dick From brian at asmoothmove.biz Sat Mar 10 07:37:12 2012 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian@asmoothmove.biz) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 08:37:12 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01584E0DBB93@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: <201203101437.q2AEbAg1009071@www30.cws.net> Thanks. I've seen this issue go back and forth over the years. It's kind of like "should we flouridate our water?". When I rebuilt my engine originally in '03/04 I didn't have access to advice of this list - only what was printed in the popular Triumph refurbishing guides. I had the money at the time to add the seats and it left me with one less thing to worry about. Had money been tight then I probably would have left it alone. Have a great day, guys. Brian -----Original Message----- From: Ruffner, James A *HS [mailto:JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu] Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 7:32 PM To: brian at asmoothmove.biz; 'Cregg Cowan' Cc: '6pack' Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber Once again the "unleaded gas" boogie man. Many years ago when I purchased a '60 TR-3A, which I still possess, (it was used) I asked Bob Tullius, who worked at the Triumph dealer at the time, and who was sponsored by Triumph, what was the best gas. He emphatically stated "use Amoco unleaded. It costs a bit more, but is the very best for the engine." I have had a valve or two burn over the years (poor valve clearance set by the shop!) but never a problem with recessed valves. I still have a couple of original heads in the basement that never needed any work on the valve seats. I'm about to pitch them. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of brian at asmoothmove.biz [brian at asmoothmove.biz] Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 12:27 PM To: 'Cregg Cowan' Cc: '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber Cregg: I think 9.25 is smart. You should have less trouble with fuel and timing than I did. Attached are two pictures. One shows the chamber after the work was done and the marked-up version highlights the edges that were rounded out. The rounding/smoothing was very modest - not a lot of material was removed, just enough to take off the sharp edges. Please warn your machine shop to be very careful not to encroach onto the gasket sealing area when they are using the die grinder, particularly between the cylinders. Cylinders 1 and 2, 5 and 6 are VERY close together and you don't want to mess up that narrow sealing surface between them. A good shop will take steps to ensure that the sealing surfaces are protected by an errant die grinder hit. May I say as long as your head is being worked on, I strongly recommend having hardened exhaust seats installed. This eliminates the worry over unleaded fuel and your exhaust valves. I even went with installing brass (or bronze?) guides on the exhaust side as another upgrade. Brian J. Alwin 1972 TR6 CC79085 -----Original Message----- From: Cregg Cowan [mailto:cregg.cowan at sri.com] Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:54 AM To: brian at asmoothmove.biz Subject: TR6 Combustion Chamber Hi Brian, It so happens that I have my '73 head off right now for valve work and decided to have it shaved (to a more modest 9.25 CR). Can you point to a description of which sharp edges need to be removed? I have the Comp Prep guide but haven't studied as carefully as I should, I guess. Thanks! Cregg Mountain View, Calif. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of marked up.jpg] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Photo549.jpg] ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 10 10:29:47 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 11:29:47 -0600 Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff Message-ID: hi. I have a couple of those green thumbscrew cutoff switches for the batteries of a couple cars. they don't seem to work ideally. the other night I went to a drive through atm to deposit a check. of course I pulled up nice and close. turned the car off while I was making the deposit. went to start the car. got a momentary hit then everything went dark. so I had to climb out because I couldn't open the door, push the car away from the machine, open the hood, unscrew it, and screw it back in. started up and drove off. most embarrassing! that sort of thing happens occasionally with both cars that have it. I think I should upgrade recommendations? thanks! From Vsnively at aol.com Sat Mar 10 10:39:07 2012 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 12:39:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff Message-ID: I had the same issue. Started snugging it up with pliers and problem solved. In a message dated 3/10/2012 12:31:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: hi. I have a couple of those green thumbscrew cutoff switches for the batteries of a couple cars. they don't seem to work ideally. the other night I went to a drive through atm to deposit a check. of course I pulled up nice and close. turned the car off while I was making the deposit. went to start the car. got a momentary hit then everything went dark. so I had to climb out because I couldn't open the door, push the car away from the machine, open the hood, unscrew it, and screw it back in. started up and drove off. most embarrassing! that sort of thing happens occasionally with both cars that have it. I think I should upgrade recommendations? thanks! ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com From bratt at sasktel.net Sat Mar 10 10:47:11 2012 From: bratt at sasktel.net (EdB) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 11:47:11 -0600 Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff References: Message-ID: <000e01ccfee5$d33abe30$6401a8c0@willscomputer> Dave: Check your automotive store for conductive grease. Dow Corning makes it. You should also be able to find it in electronics stores. It will ensure connectivity, and prevent corossion by keeping out moisture. Ed Bratt regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "dave n" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 11:29 AM Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Mar 10 10:53:39 2012 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 10:53:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust In-Reply-To: <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> References: <20120309073612.045762E022@bradakis.com> <98C0E059-2D74-4C91-9FDD-73C7CCCFE941@comcast.net> <263A0BF097C648FD9725147FAC45DD89@bboffice> Message-ID: <843D3751-10D9-4501-862C-9392D895ABFE@comcast.net> Thanks Bill, that's correct. Marty and Joe Alexander bore the cost of making these up and Marty has advised me to provide a bonus of 1 of each (a cling and an adhesive sticker) if you buy the first two (your choice of cling or adhesive). We all would rather have the stickers honoring Fred out there than sitting in my shop so get them while they last. Send me your shipping address and I'll mail them to you. Payment can be made to Marty Sukey at his Paypal account : trmarty at hotmail.com Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 9, 2012, at 10:04 PM, wrote: > $2.00 for the first one, $1.00 for each additional sticker is what > he quoted > me. > > I have had one on Tarbaby's windscreen ever since they came out, > they are > simple and appropriate. > > NFI, > Bill > > Bill Beecher > '58 TR3A TS30766L "Tarbaby" > www.triumphowners.com/1566 > '68 Land Rover Series IIa 88" "The Beast" > "Hello, my name is Bill and I own an old British car. Now...What > are the > next 11 steps?" > > > -----Original Message----- > From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net > [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson > Sent: Friday, March 09, 2012 10:47 PM > To: Mark J Bradakis > Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] Ashes to ashes, dust to dust > > I've got the remaining "FT" stickers that Marty Sukey had made up if > anyone > is interested. There are cling stickers and adhesive stickers. > Marty sent > them to me to sell at VTR but our logistics didn't quite work and that > didn't get done. I'll have to look back and see what Marty's > pricing was > but let me know if you're interested and we can figure it out. > > > Bud Rolofson > > 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) > 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) > 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly > Davidson 1977 > Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net > > > > > On Mar 9, 2012, at 12:36 AM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > >> We >> had Fred Thomas on Triumphs, > > ** triumphs at autox.team.net ** > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech at flash.net From aljlthomson at charter.net Sat Mar 10 10:54:25 2012 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 12:54:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000a01ccfee6$d52b2710$7f817530$@charter.net> Dave - A variety of battery cut-off switches are available. One company you could check out is Flaming River Industries (I think named after the Cuyuhoga (sp?) River in Cleveland - which caught fire due to extreme pollution in the '70s). Many of their cut-off switches were designed for race applications. http://www.flamingriver.com/batterydisconnect Another company to check out would be Cole-Hersee. http://www.colehersee.com/ We have a disconnect switch on our GT-6 that is mounted on the top of the cowl, next to the battery. The handle is accessible from the top of the passenger foot well. I can send you a picture if it helps. I'm sure that NAPA would have something. I have found that the thumbscrew switches just give you another thing to swear at. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of dave n Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 12:30 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff hi. I have a couple of those green thumbscrew cutoff switches for the batteries of a couple cars. they don't seem to work ideally. the other night I went to a drive through atm to deposit a check. of course I pulled up nice and close. turned the car off while I was making the deposit. went to start the car. got a momentary hit then everything went dark. so I had to climb out because I couldn't open the door, push the car away from the machine, open the hood, unscrew it, and screw it back in. started up and drove off. most embarrassing! that sort of thing happens occasionally with both cars that have it. I think I should upgrade recommendations? thanks! ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net From gkester at ucsd.edu Sat Mar 10 12:23:02 2012 From: gkester at ucsd.edu (Grant Kester) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 11:23:02 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Tire mounting in San Diego? Message-ID: <551BD844-ED18-46F4-9552-E9FFE3343B53@ucsd.edu> Hi All, I need to get some new tires mounted on my (center hub) wire wheels. Does anyone have any recommendations for shops that can do this in San Diego? Best, Grant Kester 1969 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Mar 10 12:46:10 2012 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 19:46:10 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber Message-ID: Brian---There is said to be one advantage to having the hardened seats that few will deny --- if you are running a high lift cam with monster valve springs, then the extra pounding on the seats should hold up better, when running a lot at high rpms. Dick From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Mar 10 19:23:56 2012 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 21:23:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: "they don't seem to work ideally." I agree with others on the List. I keep a small ChannelLock pliers in the glove box. I have had a couple of these green thumbscrew disconnects - they are poorly made. After numerous plier assisted seatings they become more conductive and work much better. Regards, Bob From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Sat Mar 10 20:20:43 2012 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 22:20:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01584E0DBB98@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> That's true. If you are modifying your engine for high performance. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Saturday, March 10, 2012 2:46 PM To: Brian at asmoothmove.biz Cc: '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Combustion Chamber Brian---There is said to be one advantage to having the hardened seats that few will deny --- if you are running a high lift cam with monster valve springs, then the extra pounding on the seats should hold up better, when running a lot at high rpms. Dick ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From sakirsis at consolidated.net Sun Mar 11 12:37:52 2012 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 14:37:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff In-Reply-To: <000a01ccfee6$d52b2710$7f817530$@charter.net> References: <000a01ccfee6$d52b2710$7f817530$@charter.net> Message-ID: <201203111837.061974@ms01.consolidated.net> Ah!! But how impressive you must have looked to any observers. "Now there is a man who knows his cars". Cheers, Steve Kirsis 70 and '75 6's. From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sun Mar 11 20:10:15 2012 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sun, 11 Mar 2012 19:10:15 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Coil question-'75 TR-6 Message-ID: <6088568AAC7E45A08EB85DE645161BDA@office> Coming home yesterday cruising on the expressway my TR-6 began to miss intermittantly. The miss devolved into bucking, snorting, spitting and I ended up creeping up my street in first gear--the car is undriveable. The only thing I could find out of ordinary was the coil--it was hot to the touch. Do coils get really hot when they fail? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Mar 12 06:59:49 2012 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2012 12:59:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] battery cutoff In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: I may be missing something here, but if you need tools to remove the battery cutoff, aren't you defeating the purpose of having one in the first place? Somehow I've never had any problem with my 'Walmart' green screw battery cutoff. Sloane :) 69-Six > Date: Sat, 10 Mar 2012 21:23:56 -0500 > From: rpeglow at optonline.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] battery cutoff > > "they don't seem to work ideally." From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Mon Mar 12 10:05:44 2012 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Mon, 12 Mar 2012 12:05:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Web site for cars in movies In-Reply-To: <52c9.18752893.3bf91026@aol.com> References: <52c9.18752893.3bf91026@aol.com> Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF13293E@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> This went around a while ago. But I would add to the list the movie "Goodby Again," a 1961 movie with Ingrid Bergman, Yves Montand, and Anthony Perkins (Psycho fame), co-staring a TR3A driven by Perkins. Many scenes included this car. The movie was shot in Paris. Fun to see many of the other cars of the day, including a couple of Jags, an MGA, and Mercedes. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Timbo00001 at aol.com [Timbo00001 at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, November 19, 2011 8:59 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Web site for cars in movies Many TR6's There is an Internet Movie Car database. _http://www.imcdb.org/_ (http://www.imcdb.org/) ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 13 12:17:30 2012 From: triumph76_tr6 at yahoo.com (Triumph TRSix) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 11:17:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Looking for Bud Rolofson Message-ID: <1331662650.12359.YahooMailNeo@web124701.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Hey Bud....would you email me off list? I cannot find your email address at the moment. This is Eric (the guy you helped to free up my brake drums and push the car onto a trailer about 13 years ago). Needing some info and hoping you can help out. Thanks, Eric From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Mar 13 14:40:50 2012 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Tue, 13 Mar 2012 16:40:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Message-ID: <003101cd0159$9402eff0$bc08cfd0$@net> Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the Gunst throw out bearing? TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches with flat fingers (ie Luk) but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation may be more political than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good price on a B & B clutch kit - will this work OK? Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Mar 13 18:17:51 2012 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 00:17:51 GMT Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Message-ID: Dennis---Not exactly "recently" but I installed the Gunst T/O bearing with the Blue dot B&B disc and pressure plate about 8 years ago. Everything worked well for the 10,000 miles or so, before I elected to go with the Toyota 5 speed, which must use a different T/O bearing & sleeve. Mr. Gunst experienced "whistling" when the B&B pressure plate was turning, and attributed this to the shape of the cranked fingers. I heard no such sound, and I'm sort of fussy about these things. Note - the B&B pressure plate is still in there, with the Toyota disc. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Culligan Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the Gunst throw out bearing? TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches with flat fingers (ie Luk) but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation may be more political than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good price on a B & B clutch kit - will this work OK? Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 14 05:45:02 2012 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (dave n) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 06:45:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] thank you list Message-ID: <32A51AE9031341E29459FE642767B147@ranteer.local> had two issues - occasional subtle miss and speedo gone wonky/noisy cable replaced the rotor - done! pulled the cable, oiled it with penetrating oil - done! both recommendations from the list From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Wed Mar 14 07:37:52 2012 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:37:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF132945@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Is the Toyota 5-speed a direct installation, or are additional modifications required? And which 5-speed is this? Just curious, in case... ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 8:17 PM To: Dennis Culligan; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Dennis---Not exactly "recently" but I installed the Gunst T/O bearing with the Blue dot B&B disc and pressure plate about 8 years ago. Everything worked well for the 10,000 miles or so, before I elected to go with the Toyota 5 speed, which must use a different T/O bearing & sleeve. Mr. Gunst experienced "whistling" when the B&B pressure plate was turning, and attributed this to the shape of the cranked fingers. I heard no such sound, and I'm sort of fussy about these things. Note - the B&B pressure plate is still in there, with the Toyota disc. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Culligan Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the Gunst throw out bearing? TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches with flat fingers (ie Luk) but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation may be more political than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good price on a B & B clutch kit - will this work OK? Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Mar 14 10:30:00 2012 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 09:30:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF132945@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> References: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0158EF132945@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: <03F98504-6797-4EAD-A21A-DD474E78F465@comcast.net> The HVDA Toyota 5 speed conversion kit is required. Also a W85 Toyota 5 speed Transmission, they are from the 1985-87 Toyota Celica, and or Supra ... make sure you don't get the Truck one. Herman Van Den Akker is the only source for the conversion kit. His website is: http://www.hvdaconversions.com/products.html I used this kit on both our TR6 and TR3 ... had a little trouble with the TR3 installation, Herman drove up from the LA area, and showed me the correct way to fix it. The hydraulic clutch bearing eliminates the Triumph slave cylinder and works great. You can't do better than dealing with Herman, give him a call he will answer ... On Mar 14, 2012, at 6:37 AM, Ruffner, James A *HS wrote: > Is the Toyota 5-speed a direct installation, or are additional modifications > required? And which 5-speed is this? Just curious, in case... > ________________________________________ > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 8:17 PM > To: Dennis Culligan; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? > > Dennis---Not exactly "recently" but I installed the Gunst T/O bearing with the > Blue dot B&B disc and pressure plate about 8 years ago. Everything worked well > for the 10,000 miles or so, before I elected to go with the Toyota 5 speed, > which must use a different T/O bearing & sleeve. Mr. Gunst experienced > "whistling" when the B&B pressure plate was turning, and attributed this to > the shape of the cranked fingers. I heard no such sound, and I'm sort of fussy > about these things. Note - the B&B pressure plate is still in there, with the > Toyota disc. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Dennis Culligan > Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:40 PM > To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? > > Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the > Gunst throw out bearing? > > TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches > with flat fingers (ie Luk) > > but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation > may be more political > > than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good > price on a B & B clutch kit - > > will this work OK? > > > > Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net > > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Mar 14 12:45:34 2012 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 14 Mar 2012 18:45:34 GMT Subject: [6pack] Which 5 Speed? Message-ID: James---It's a direct installation, so far as no cutting is concerned. No mods necessary to install. If you get the kit from HVDA, the instructions will be complete for the TR6. Probably the 3's & 4's also, but I haven't done any of these. I installed the W-58, which has the tallest 5th gear at .078:1 ratio. It came out of an '83 Celica. Supposedly the '82 to '85 have the ones desired. It's slightly heavier than the original TR box, but lighter than the TR with OD. The hydraulically operated throwout bearing is slick, eliminating all the hardware between the Clutch MC to the operating fork. (Just when we pretty much solved the troublesome broken fork pin, along comes the method to get rid of all this stuff)! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Ruffner, James A *HS Sent: Wednesday, March 14, 2012 6:37 AM To: Sally or Dick Taylor, Dennis Culligan, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Is the Toyota 5-speed a direct installation, or are additional modifications required? And which 5-speed is this? Just curious, in case... ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 8:17 PM To: Dennis Culligan; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Dennis---Not exactly "recently" but I installed the Gunst T/O bearing with the Blue dot B&B disc and pressure plate about 8 years ago. Everything worked well for the 10,000 miles or so, before I elected to go with the Toyota 5 speed, which must use a different T/O bearing & sleeve. Mr. Gunst experienced "whistling" when the B&B pressure plate was turning, and attributed this to the shape of the cranked fingers. I heard no such sound, and I'm sort of fussy about these things. Note - the B&B pressure plate is still in there, with the Toyota disc. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Dennis Culligan Sent: Tuesday, March 13, 2012 1:40 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] B & B clutch and Gunst T. O. Bearing in a TR6? Has anybody recently put a Borg & Beck clutch in their TR6 and used the Gunst throw out bearing? TRF catalogs "recommend" that the Gunst bearing only be used w/ clutches with flat fingers (ie Luk) but as per a brief discussion with Dave from TRF, Mr. Gunst's recommendation may be more political than practical. I already have a Gunst bearing and can get a REALLY good price on a B & B clutch kit - will this work OK? Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Thu Mar 15 14:34:08 2012 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Thu, 15 Mar 2012 13:34:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] B&B Clutch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1331843648.42826.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I recall an article on line that attributed some TR6 clutch failures to current B&B clutch offerings for TR6 being different then the B&Bs the factory installed on the earlier 6s. I understand the earlier 6s had a heavier but more robust clutch set-up then the later 6s that came with Laycock clutches I reseached this issue to death before replacing my clutch, and I replaced and did everything possible on this job short of rebuilding the trannie. 4 years ago. Went with Gunst T/O and LUK clutch kit from TRF. Thought it was heavy at first, but clutch and/or driver setlled in and I really like it. smooth and accurate. A club mate used Gunst and a low cost clutch from a local supplier. He had issues. Value of not going in there again to re-do work - Priceless. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sun Mar 18 08:48:14 2012 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 07:48:14 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 75 TR-6 carb parts needed Message-ID: <2309C1752DD84FF996A2060BCD904885@office> Gentlemen-- a small workbench flash fire melted several plastic Zenith Stromberg parts yesterday and I'm wondering if any one has some unused, wornout carbs they could cannibalize parts for me. I need: 2 each damper assemblies--Moss part # 366-030 1 each temperature compensator cover part # 365-835 1 each float assembly part # 365-505 Hate to pay retail but may have to. I learned a valuable lesson on just how flammable various cleaning solvents can be. You cannot be too careful. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas Cell 702-506-2430 From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Mar 18 08:52:28 2012 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sun, 18 Mar 2012 09:52:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 75 TR-6 carb parts needed In-Reply-To: <2309C1752DD84FF996A2060BCD904885@office> References: <2309C1752DD84FF996A2060BCD904885@office> Message-ID: Don't have your parts, but compare Joe Curto's prices before you order from Moss. http://joecurtoinc.com/ NFI. Irv Korey 74 TR6 Cf22767U Highland Park, IL On Sun, Mar 18, 2012 at 9:48 AM, Bill Wellbaum wrote: > Gentlemen-- a small workbench flash fire melted several plastic Zenith > Stromberg parts yesterday and I'm wondering if any one has some unused, > wornout carbs they could cannibalize parts for me. I need: > 2 each damper assemblies--Moss part # 366-030 > 1 each temperature compensator cover part # 365-835 > 1 each float assembly part # 365-505 > > Hate to pay retail but may have to. I learned a valuable lesson on just > how > flammable various cleaning solvents can be. You cannot be too careful. > > Bill Wellbaum > British Auto Club of Las Vegas > Cell 702-506-2430 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/emanteno at comcast.net From wcwellbaum at cox.net Mon Mar 19 17:10:06 2012 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 16:10:06 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 problem Message-ID: My '75 Tr-6 has developed a perplexing problem. It starts easily and idles smoothly on all 6 cylinders. As I start out in first gear the car begins to buck and jerk almost as if someone was switching the ignition key on and off. Literally that severe. And it will not accelerate at all but bucks and jerks with some spitting back out of one of the carbs. Over the weekend I have replaced: Plugs, plug wires, dizzy cap, rotor, points, condenser, low tension lead block, fuel pump, and fuel filter. I have disassembled the two Zenith carbs and found the float bowels to be spotlessly clean and the floats set to spec. No improvement. The battery is putting out 12.8 volts. When I put a multi meter across the positive pole on the distributor with the ignition key on the best I get is 5.5 volts--and the two wires ending up on the positive side of the coil are warm to the touch. Where do I go now? What should the reading be at the positive terminal? Bill Wellbaum Frustrated in Las Vegas From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 19 17:45:05 2012 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 23:45:05 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR-6 problem Message-ID: Bill---The 5.5V is a little low as I recall, but not by much. One of the wires at the coil + is the ballasted wire, which supplies power after the engine starts. (The other wire supplies 12V when cranking). If you want to get the 12V after the engine starts, use a jump wire from the (key controlled) fuse block over to the coil + terminal. Disconnect and tape the other two, just long enough to see if this solves your problem. Chances are it won't. I sounds more like your ignition points are not triggering the coil as it should. Take another look at how the points should stack on the post, with the insulation block. The backfiring suggests that the ign. timing is out of phase. Crossed plug wires (if that's possible for you) or the spark is frequently going to the wrong terminal under the cap. This is easy to check, but the steps required might be too long for this forum. Write back for more, if necessary. Dick There -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wellbaum Sent: Monday, March 19, 2012 4:10 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] TR-6 problem My '75 Tr-6 has developed a perplexing problem. It starts easily and idles smoothly on all 6 cylinders. As I start out in first gear the car begins to buck and jerk almost as if someone was switching the ignition key on and off. Literally that severe. And it will not accelerate at all but bucks and jerks with some spitting back out of one of the carbs. Over the weekend I have replaced: Plugs, plug wires, dizzy cap, rotor, points, condenser, low tension lead block, fuel pump, and fuel filter. I have disassembled the two Zenith carbs and found the float bowels to be spotlessly clean and the floats set to spec. No improvement. The battery is putting out 12.8 volts. When I put a multi meter across the positive pole on the distributor with the ignition key on the best I get is 5.5 volts--and the two wires ending up on the positive side of the coil are warm to the touch. Where do I go now? What should the reading be at the positive terminal? Bill Wellbaum Frustrated in Las Vegas ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From ken at azkiwis.com Mon Mar 19 18:58:11 2012 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Mon, 19 Mar 2012 17:58:11 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Triumphs only Message-ID: <551E521626F74793B60E94234D06E51A@AcerNotebook> Is Triumphs Only, in Stockton, Calif, still in business? www.triumphsonly.com >From their web site it looks like it hasn't been updated since around June, 2010.. Ken 73 TR6 From mark at bradakis.com Wed Mar 21 16:42:26 2012 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 16:42:26 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: [Tigers] TR6's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4F6A5952.2010901@bradakis.com> A message from the tigers list. mjb. -------- Original Message -------- Subject: [Tigers] TR6's Date: Wed, 21 Mar 2012 04:32:21 -0700 From: steve wick To: These aren't mine and I know nothing about them, but thought if anyone here was also in to TR-6's, they might be interested. http://spokane.craigslist.org/pts/2913614517.html From jimhurle at gmail.com Thu Mar 22 13:49:36 2012 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Thu, 22 Mar 2012 15:49:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Bumper - Message-ID: A bunch of years ago, I bought a rear center bumper section on ebay for my 6, since mine was severely rusted from exhaust gases. However, it was not the right one. I have a 1975, with the "Triumph" plastic piece under the center. The one I bought is different. It is not 'boxed in' completely as the 1975 model is. How can I tell what year it will fit, and does anyone have a clue to its value. Is anyone interested in it? Jim Hurley From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sat Mar 31 17:42:12 2012 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 16:42:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Driveability Message-ID: <4E679542B8604EA1A00FCD9378982E79@office> Some time ago I recall a TR-6 owner suggested setting the timing at a certain setting and running the car with the vacuum retard disconnected and plugged. Anyone recall that thread? Does anyone drive their TR-6 like that? Can anyone recommend a company that can rebuild the TR-6 Distributor to eliminate the wobble in the main shaft? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas From dave at ranteer.com Sat Mar 31 21:44:46 2012 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 31 Mar 2012 22:44:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Driveability In-Reply-To: <4E679542B8604EA1A00FCD9378982E79@office> References: <4E679542B8604EA1A00FCD9378982E79@office> Message-ID: <784F2FFF63EA4C3FAFD5A9F679B6BC38@Stag> you'll probably get 100 people respond http://www.advanceddistributors.com/ best product best service best price he can set your weights, advance, etc so you can plug the vacuum. I am running that way, with triple carbs -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wellbaum Sent: Saturday, March 31, 2012 6:42 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Driveability Some time ago I recall a TR-6 owner suggested setting the timing at a certain setting and running the car with the vacuum retard disconnected and plugged. Anyone recall that thread? Does anyone drive their TR-6 like that? Can anyone recommend a company that can rebuild the TR-6 Distributor to eliminate the wobble in the main shaft? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas