From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Wed Jul  4 08:52:53 2012
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 07:52:53 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
Message-ID: <DCE3C39261244FE0B14314B15D813EF6@office>

Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
tried his website but am unable to open
it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great as
a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Jul  4 09:09:59 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 08:09:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
In-Reply-To: <DCE3C39261244FE0B14314B15D813EF6@office>
References: <DCE3C39261244FE0B14314B15D813EF6@office>
Message-ID: <8CC2303A-32E9-4E79-B68C-562FD6E6D478@comcast.net>

This is the best place (by far) to get your Bonnet Release 

	http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm

On Jul 4, 2012, at 7:52 AM, Bill Wellbaum wrote:

> Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
> David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
> want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
> tried his website but am unable to open
> it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great
as
> a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> British Auto Club of Las Vegas
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net

From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au  Wed Jul  4 16:51:13 2012
From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc )
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 08:51:13 +1000
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Hood Release
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1341424803.14861.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7D23BCFC5EA24381A84EFBC9873B2FFE@johnqg3ed0cywf>

G'day Bill,

One thing to be careful with is that this release can 'over' open. That is the
little tab on top that pushes
the release back can go back too far and slip under the release bar and
effectively make your problem worse!
I made my own bracket and stopped this problem by putting a screw through the
release bracket stopping the arm
from going back too far.

Happy to send photos of what I mean if you need them.

John Mc
"Fast is First"
'71 TR6 PI
'76 Dolomite 1850
'76 Dolomite Sprint (V6 Project)

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 07:52:53 -0700
From: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
Message-ID: <DCE3C39261244FE0B14314B15D813EF6 at office>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
tried his website but am unable to open
it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great as
a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 08:09:59 -0700
From: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>
Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
Message-ID: <8CC2303A-32E9-4E79-B68C-562FD6E6D478 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

This is the best place (by far) to get your Bonnet Release 

	http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm

On Jul 4, 2012, at 7:52 AM, Bill Wellbaum wrote:

> Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
> David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
> want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
> tried his website but am unable to open
> it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great
as
> a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> British Auto Club of Las Vegas
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
6pack mailing list
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 97
************************************

From colinthom at shaw.ca  Wed Jul  4 16:53:16 2012
From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 15:53:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] hood release
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1341424803.14861.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21.1341424803.14861.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <01aa01cd5a37$cc7c1f00$65745d00$@ca>

Hi gang,

I made something very similar to what's at Macy's garage, using an old hood
pull cable and a modified alternator slide bracket. The only thing to watch
for is that when you pull down on whatever you create to pull down on, which
will be hanging above the passenger's legs, you have to make sure you push
your actuating lever back to the forward edge of the latch. When you pull
down on your actuating device, you'll notice that the lever keeps moving
backwards after it's activated the latch. The latch will spring back into
place, your actuator will then be behind it, and if you don't return your
lever to the forward side of the latch, it won't do you any good the next
time you pull down on your pull device.

Colin

Today's Topics:

   1. TR-6 Hood release (Bill Wellbaum)
   2. Re: TR-6 Hood release (William Pugh)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 07:52:53 -0700
From: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
Message-ID: <DCE3C39261244FE0B14314B15D813EF6 at office>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
tried his website but am unable to open
it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great
as
a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas


------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 08:09:59 -0700
From: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>
To: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>
Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
Message-ID: <8CC2303A-32E9-4E79-B68C-562FD6E6D478 at comcast.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

This is the best place (by far) to get your Bonnet Release 

	http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm

On Jul 4, 2012, at 7:52 AM, Bill Wellbaum wrote:

> Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
> David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
> want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
> tried his website but am unable to open
> it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great
as
> a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> British Auto Club of Las Vegas
>

"Life is too short to drive boring cars"

Bill Pugh
1957 TR3 "Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA
anabil007 at comcast.net


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
6pack mailing list
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 97
************************************

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Jul  4 19:04:24 2012
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 18:04:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Hood Release
In-Reply-To: <7D23BCFC5EA24381A84EFBC9873B2FFE@johnqg3ed0cywf>
References: <7D23BCFC5EA24381A84EFBC9873B2FFE@johnqg3ed0cywf>
Message-ID: <118176C1-FCBF-4BF8-9CA2-DCC19F7F8712@comcast.net>

Well mine has been working fine for over 5 years ... So I will stick with it

Sent from my iPad

On Jul 4, 2012, at 3:51 PM, "John Mc " <john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au> wrote:

> G'day Bill,
>
> One thing to be careful with is that this release can 'over' open. That is
the
> little tab on top that pushes
> the release back can go back too far and slip under the release bar and
> effectively make your problem worse!
> I made my own bracket and stopped this problem by putting a screw through
the
> release bracket stopping the arm
> from going back too far.
>
> Happy to send photos of what I mean if you need them.
>
> John Mc
> "Fast is First"
> '71 TR6 PI
> '76 Dolomite 1850
> '76 Dolomite Sprint (V6 Project)
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 07:52:53 -0700
> From: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>
> To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
> Message-ID: <DCE3C39261244FE0B14314B15D813EF6 at office>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
> David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
> want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
> tried his website but am unable to open
> it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great
as
> a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> British Auto Club of Las Vegas
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 2
> Date: Wed, 4 Jul 2012 08:09:59 -0700
> From: William Pugh <anabil007 at comcast.net>
> To: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>
> Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] TR-6 Hood release
> Message-ID: <8CC2303A-32E9-4E79-B68C-562FD6E6D478 at comcast.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> This is the best place (by far) to get your Bonnet Release 
>
>    http://www.macysgarage.com/myweb6/Parts/triumph_accessories.htm
>
> On Jul 4, 2012, at 7:52 AM, Bill Wellbaum wrote:
>
>> Any one have a copy of the excellent TR-6 hood release device shown on the
>> David Sims website from back in 2005.  I am unable to locate my copy and I
>> want to get it into the hands of other Club mates that own TR-6's.  I have
>> tried his website but am unable to open
>> it--www.davidsims.ukgateway.net/hood_release.html.  This piece works great
> as
>> a daily hood opener--let alone as the emergency release as designed.
>>
>> Bill Wellbaum
>> British Auto Club of Las Vegas
>>
>
> "Life is too short to drive boring cars"
>
> Bill Pugh
> 1957 TR3 "Casper"
> TS16765L
> Wallace, CA

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Wed Jul  4 21:52:07 2012
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2012 20:52:07 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
Message-ID: <4FF50F67.2020907@sri.com>

Fellow Triumph Enthusiasts,

Several of us in the San Francisco are Triumph club (Triumph Travelers) 
have gotten interested in Lemons racing, and have been driving with a 
team that campaigns a MGB (sacrilege!).  We would like to put together a 
Triumph based Lemons car and our first choice is a Herald, since it is 
somewhat unusual, shares so many parts with widely-available Spitfires, 
and has body-on-frame configuration that is easy to maintain / work on.

Do any of you know of a Herald rusting away under a tree or behind a 
shed?  Ideally within ~8 hours drive of San Jose?

Thanks in Advance,

Cregg Cowan, Andy Packard and John Sisler

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Jul  4 22:51:43 2012
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 04 Jul 2012 22:51:43 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Seeking Herald in Rough Condition
In-Reply-To: <4FF50F67.2020907@sri.com>
References: <4FF50F67.2020907@sri.com>
Message-ID: <4FF51D5F.2010900@bradakis.com>

Too bad you don't want a Spitfire.  If you came and hauled away one
of the rusting hulks in the back yard my wife would be really grateful!

mjb.

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 05:29:00 2012
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 07:29:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
In-Reply-To: <000801cd55f8$0ae71860$20b54920$@charter.net>
References: <CA+aQ7ww=2pc2ZKFfix72Pqfod+LH+vM7OxOrvvob75xTGUjsZw@mail.gmail.com>
	<000801cd55f8$0ae71860$20b54920$@charter.net>
Message-ID: <CA+aQ7wz2wuim-FG+-mocsxhRWULfboGZZcE493KHmUC-L7iubA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who responded to my stiff choke cable question. Depressing
the gas pedal before pulling out the choke actually does help reduce the
tension; couldn't believe it. It's still not  a "smooth" operation and I
will continue to explore what other carb issues may be contributing to the
stiffness.
This list is an amazing resource of knowledge and experience. Thanks again
Alex & Janet, Dave, Dick and Robert Lang.
Best,
Bob Fabie
Fredericksburg, Va

On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Alex & Janet Thomson <
aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:

> Always get in the habit of pressing on the accelerator slightly when
> pulling
> out the choke knob. That will reduce the amount of force needed to advance
> the throttle cam.
>
> Alex Thomson
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of robert fabie
> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 8:35 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
>
> Friends,
> Is there a trick to connecting the choke cables to the carbs that results
> in
> the choke knob operating smoothly? It seems to take a lot of force to pull
> and push the choke cable knob. When not connected to the carbs, the cable
> operates smoothly and effortlessly. Does anyone else have this problem?
> Much appreciate your help.
> Bob
> '75 TR6
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Thu Jul  5 17:11:41 2012
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 16:11:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] New tires are rubbing
Message-ID: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

New Rota RB wheels with Kumho Ecsta Platinum 205/65/16B  in V speed rating.B 
I run about 28-30 lbs.
B 
Great looks and best upgrade Ibve made to car.B 
Transformational.B  B Great pricing on both.B B  
B 
I hear them rub during
someB tight parking maneuvers.B B  Should I be concerned?B  If so, what to
do?B B  I donbt recall my 1957015 rubbing.
B 
Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 Tr6

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Jul  5 17:39:43 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 19:39:43 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] New tires are rubbing
In-Reply-To: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CF291E96BA8A6F-12D0-2DFEF@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com>

Spacers may cure.

I have a set if you would like to try.




Joe Alexander
A. R. E.
645 1st Street
Jesup, Iowa 50648
319.464.4711  (cell)
n197tr4 at cs.com




-----Original Message-----
From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, Jul 5, 2012 6:26 pm
Subject: [6pack] New tires are rubbing


New Rota RB wheels with Kumho Ecsta Platinum 205/65/16B  in V speed rating.B
I run about 28-30 lbs.
B
Great looks and best upgrade Ibve made to car.B
Transformational.B  B Great pricing on both.B B
B
I hear them rub during
someB tight parking maneuvers.B B  Should I be concerned?B  If so, what to
do?B B  I donbt recall my 1957015 rubbing.
B
Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 Tr6

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu Jul  5 21:11:17 2012
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 22:11:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] New tires are rubbing
In-Reply-To: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyg2Oq71oC3WW6hTMLc-q7NH0zftBBTvNejP73k+WiKYsw@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 6:11 PM, Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

> New Rota RB wheels with Kumho Ecsta Platinum 205/65/16B  in V speed
> rating.B
> I run about 28-30 lbs.
> B
> Great looks and best upgrade Ib ve made to car.B
> Transformational.B  B Great pricing on both.B B
> B
> I hear them rub during
> someB tight parking maneuvers.B B  Should I be concerned?B  If so, what to
> do?B B  I donb t recall my 1957015 rubbing.
>

Using a tire size calculator, I see that your new tires are about 3/4"
taller than your old tires and about .40" wider than your old tires. That
is why you are rubbing. If you are
getting an occasional rub now, it will be worse when your car is loaded
with 2 people and stuff for a road trip and/or when you have the wheels
turned and hit a sharp bump. If it
gets bad, you will need to put spacers under your springs to raise the ride
height a bit.

Here is the tire size calculator that I use:

http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php

This would have helped you more before you bought your tires, but at least
it should help you see why you have a problem now.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Thu Jul  5 21:34:31 2012
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 23:34:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New tires are rubbing
In-Reply-To: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwi+taJZi4t4s7s3GVOysk5ndK4vS_p0cBk0cUjJLd3DpA@mail.gmail.com>

Bruce;

Been there, done that. Plus-one sizing runs risks, depending on your
suspension setup. Front upper wishbone arms will likely need to be ground
back (angle grinder) some, depending on your suspension. Also, depending on
your rear shock setup, there may be rubbing there as well. I have the tube
shock conversion kit and needed to grind them as well. Ignore it and you'll
eventually lose a nice set of tires. Also, if you smell burning rubber as
you drive, pay attention.....

Dave Friedlander
'74 Six w/TBI, running Plus-One Kumhos


On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 7:11 PM, Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

> New Rota RB wheels with Kumho Ecsta Platinum 205/65/16B  in V speed
> rating.B
> I run about 28-30 lbs.
> B
> Great looks and best upgrade Ib ve made to car.B
> Transformational.B  B Great pricing on both.B B
> B
> I hear them rub during
> someB tight parking maneuvers.B B  Should I be concerned?B  If so, what to
> do?B B  I donb t recall my 1957015 rubbing.
> B
> Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 Tr6
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com

From bratt at sasktel.net  Thu Jul  5 23:34:32 2012
From: bratt at sasktel.net (EdB)
Date: Thu, 5 Jul 2012 23:34:32 -0600
Subject: [6pack] New tires are rubbing
References: <1341529901.41923.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAFWFMyg2Oq71oC3WW6hTMLc-q7NH0zftBBTvNejP73k+WiKYsw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <F66678ABAEED45E29F9EF917961FBAA3@willscomputer>

My guess as to the cause of the rubbing may be the offset of the new wheels.
I say this because larger tires such as Michelin XGT4 tires in the 215/70-15
size, which are both wider and taller than your new tires, have been used on 
stock TR6 wheels with no problem.

I would take one front wheel and one rear   wheel off the car and inspect 
the tire for any
rubbed area.  If my guess is correct, you might be able to fix the problem
with a wheel spacer.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Irv Korey" <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: "Bruce Simms" <brucesimns2003 at yahoo.ca>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, July 05, 2012 9:11 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires are rubbing


> On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 6:11 PM, Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca> 
> wrote:
>
>> New Rota RB wheels with Kumho Ecsta Platinum 205/65/16B  in V speed
>> rating.B
>> I run about 28-30 lbs.
>> B
>> Great looks and best upgrade Ib ve made to car.B
>> Transformational.B  B Great pricing on both.B B
>> B
>> I hear them rub during
>> someB tight parking maneuvers.B B  Should I be concerned?B  If so, what 
>> to
>> do?B B  I donb t recall my 1957015 rubbing.
>>
>
> Using a tire size calculator, I see that your new tires are about 3/4"
> taller than your old tires and about .40" wider than your old tires. That
> is why you are rubbing. If you are
> getting an occasional rub now, it will be worse when your car is loaded
> with 2 people and stuff for a road trip and/or when you have the wheels
> turned and hit a sharp bump. If it
> gets bad, you will need to put spacers under your springs to raise the 
> ride
> height a bit.
>
> Here is the tire size calculator that I use:
>
> http://www.tacomaworld.com/forum/tirecalc.php
>
> This would have helped you more before you bought your tires, but at least
> it should help you see why you have a problem now.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net
>
>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> Version: 2012.0.2178 / Virus Database: 2437/5112 - Release Date: 07/05/12

From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Jul  6 10:57:04 2012
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 6 Jul 2012 10:57:04 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Hacked email address book
In-Reply-To: <BLU168-W4620AAAB409EF58B45DBF0BAEE0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU168-W4620AAAB409EF58B45DBF0BAEE0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <225C39FE-D114-4F63-AD82-39DD5CDFF8E6@comcast.net>

Darn it.

Since I hold your opinion in hight regard and need to lose a few  
pounds I had high hopes for this "miracle"  weight loss product.  
Although I did think it was a bit cheeky on your part...kinda like all  
the people that send me mental health treatment suggestions and  
links.  Nice to find out it was a hack job.   ;)


Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 6, 2012, at 7:15 AM, marty sukey wrote:

> Somebody hacked into my email this morning and sent a link out to  
> everybody in my contacts.  If you got an email from me with a link  
> but no text PLEASE do not open it. I apologize for the  
> inconvenience. I am working on fixing the issue.
>
> Marty Sukey

From davgil at aol.com  Sat Jul  7 12:21:49 2012
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 14:21:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Horn issues
Message-ID: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>

I am trying to troubleshoot weak or no sound from the horns on my very stock
1976 TR6.  My shop manual describes an adjustment procedure, but I don't
believe that adjustment is my problem (and as usual, my horns don't have the
described adjustment screw).  I am getting approximately 6 volts at the horn
connection.  I suspect that I have some corrosion issue or a failing relay,
but before I contine to scuttle downj useless paths, I wanted to determine if
6v was the proper voltage at the horns.  As I continued to press and release
the horn button, I got more response from the horns as if something was
gradually releasing, but then blew the fuse.  I looked in the archives, but
did not find this specific information.  If someone has experience in this
area, I would appreciate it.
Regards,
David Gill
1976 TR6

From tr6 at lbcs.ca  Sat Jul  7 13:23:12 2012
From: tr6 at lbcs.ca (Dave More)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 13:23:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Horn issues
In-Reply-To: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <9D00C435-594F-4421-AA45-74CBD06788D8@lbcs.ca>

I'm currently going through a similar type of issue. In my case, when the
horns work they work very well, and then at other times they don't work at all
or jus a very pathetic bleep. The relay is working properly and I've confirmed
voltage at the horns of ~12V. Suspecting a ground issue I found a "bulleted
ground" which appears to also service the LF side parking light. An ohmmeter
showed a high resistance so I changed out the bullet connectors and cleaned up
the female connector, and after doing so the horns worked great .. for a
while. Now I'm back to the same situation as before, however I find that if I
wiggle the wiring harness below the headlight and to the left of the rad the
horns come to life. I guess it's feasible that a ground wire could be broken
inside the harness but I don't really understand how that could be.

So my next step now is to run a ground wire directly from the hor's ground
terminal to a known good body ground. If that works then it's a definite
pointer to a wiring ground issue, but given the crucial nature of the horns in
our cars I'll probably leave the new ground in place.

Cheers,
Dave

On 2012-07-07, at 12:21 PM, davgil at aol.com wrote:

> I am trying to troubleshoot weak or no sound from the horns on my very
stock
> 1976 TR6.  My shop manual describes an adjustment procedure, but I don't
> believe that adjustment is my problem (and as usual, my horns don't have
the
> described adjustment screw).  I am getting approximately 6 volts at the
horn
> connection.  I suspect that I have some corrosion issue or a failing relay,
> but before I contine to scuttle downj useless paths, I wanted to determine
if
> 6v was the proper voltage at the horns.  As I continued to press and
release
> the horn button, I got more response from the horns as if something was
> gradually releasing, but then blew the fuse.  I looked in the archives, but
> did not find this specific information.  If someone has experience in this
> area, I would appreciate it.
> Regards,
> David Gill
> 1976 TR6
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6 at lbcs.ca

From djfidler at rogers.com  Sat Jul  7 16:17:14 2012
From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler)
Date: Sat, 7 Jul 2012 18:17:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Horn issues
In-Reply-To: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BE8EE7FA-3763-43E0-9F60-E25696764DBC@rogers.com>

There's an excellent article about horns in the Winter issue of 6-PACK.

There should be a full 12v at the horns.

Best regards,

David.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 7, 2012, at 2:21 PM, davgil at aol.com wrote:

> I am trying to troubleshoot weak or no sound from the horns on my very
stock
> 1976 TR6.  My shop manual describes an adjustment procedure, but I don't
> believe that adjustment is my problem (and as usual, my horns don't have
the
> described adjustment screw).  I am getting approximately 6 volts at the
horn
> connection.  I suspect that I have some corrosion issue or a failing relay,
> but before I contine to scuttle downj useless paths, I wanted to determine
if
> 6v was the proper voltage at the horns.  As I continued to press and
release
> the horn button, I got more response from the horns as if something was
> gradually releasing, but then blew the fuse.  I looked in the archives, but
> did not find this specific information.  If someone has experience in this
> area, I would appreciate it.
> Regards,
> David Gill
> 1976 TR6
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Sat Jul  7 22:41:32 2012
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Sun, 8 Jul 2012 04:41:32 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Horn issues
In-Reply-To: <BE8EE7FA-3763-43E0-9F60-E25696764DBC@rogers.com>
References: <8CF2A848206359B-21D8-38789@webmail-m015.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BE8EE7FA-3763-43E0-9F60-E25696764DBC@rogers.com>
Message-ID: <BLU171-W104E55B122AE7704CD6AF3A8EEC0@phx.gbl>

Don't know if this will help anybody or not, but my horn problems were always
due to a lack of proper ground at the horn button. There's a big ground wire
that needs to connect to the steering rack and the little wire that goes
around/thru the big square rubber thing on the steering column. These are
crucial to the steering column actually having a ground to send.  Of course,
the horn push has to work properly too to send this solid ground down to the
horn relay, thus sending a good 12v down to the horns when pushed.

It's easy enough to bypass the relay to see if you'll get 12v down to the
horns. Just touch the incoming 12v to the wire heading to the horns. Test all
3 wires to be sure you know which one is ground coming from the horn-push,
which one is live 12v all the time, and the other one is heading to the horns.
It looks like the purple is the 12v coming from the fuse box (the purple
circuit is always live), the purple/yellow stripe is heading to the horn and
the purple/black stripe is the ground coming from the steering wheel.

Sloane :o)
'69-Six

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Mon Jul  9 14:13:18 2012
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Mon, 9 Jul 2012 14:13:18 -0600
Subject: [6pack]
 =?windows-1252?q?Since_we=27re_talkin=27_about_TR-7_J-typ?=
 =?windows-1252?q?e_ODs_=85?=
In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B015966EEB08A@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
References: <C6A7B9FA-E135-4E94-88EA-8CE1468F8D04@nc.rr.com>
	<9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B015966EEB08A@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
Message-ID: <CAMGa+02qda-E5kvbrPg1=LfGkgXSSo-BYSm9QyWdFSQHZJ1x6w@mail.gmail.com>

James,

In your response below you write:

"..You can check ....Third possibility is the secondary relay.  It
could also be stuck."

I am currently checking my J-Type O/D electrical before I re-install
the transmission cover.

What are you referring to by "secondary relay"?
Where is it located and what is its function?

My J-Type has 3 switches around the top cover:
  Left side is the reverse lights;
  Right side the Neutral switch which is part of the ignition system.
  Top, forward of the shift lever, is the O/D switch to ensure the O/D
turns ON only in 3rd or 4th.

Thank you,

Henri


On Tue, May 29, 2012 at 4:13 PM, Ruffner, James A *HS
<JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu> wrote:
> First place to check is the solenoid.  It could well be jamming.  They get
> old, and dirt gets into the space between the plunger and the barrel of the
> solenoid.  Most of them will make a distinct "snap" when going into and out of
> operation.
>
> You can check the operation of the switches in the transmission cover by
> putting a meter to check electrical continuity when you shift gears.   Third
> possibility is the secondary relay.  It could also be stuck.  The car does not
> even need to be running when doing these tests, just have the ignition on.
> Check the wiring diagram to see where to put the meter.  You can also use a
> little light bulb and a couple of alligator clips and watch to see if the
> light goes on and off.
> ________________________________________
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Douglas Morris [dcmdcm at nc.rr.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 29, 2012 5:12 PM
> To: 6pack
> Subject: [6pack] Since we're talkin' about TR-7 J-type ODs
>
> Me ol' '74-6 took me from NC to Seattle, LA, TX, and back without a whimper
> last Summer.
>
> However, over the past few months, I've been experiencing some strange
> overdrive-related symptoms.
> 1. Long after it's warmed up (dunno if significant), it won't shift out of OD
> in either 3rd or 4th. Not always.
> 2. While OD is selected and accelerating in 2nd, it shudders. If I go back to
> first and unselect OD, things go fine.
>
> Could it beeee
> a) Fluid level? Too lazy to check that, yet. (maqana)
> b) OD solenoid?
> c) Gear-position switch(es)?
> d) OD switch? It was replaced 2-yrs ago.
> e) *gulp* Something really bad?
>
> Just lookin' for a starting place.
>
> Doug Morris, NC
> '74 TR-6 CF-183XX-UO
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com
>
>



-- 
Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 10 09:08:00 2012
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 09:08:00 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
In-Reply-To: <CA+aQ7wz2wuim-FG+-mocsxhRWULfboGZZcE493KHmUC-L7iubA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+aQ7ww=2pc2ZKFfix72Pqfod+LH+vM7OxOrvvob75xTGUjsZw@mail.gmail.com>
	<000801cd55f8$0ae71860$20b54920$@charter.net>
	<CA+aQ7wz2wuim-FG+-mocsxhRWULfboGZZcE493KHmUC-L7iubA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <CAMGa+03TNfrLkE2UtUVDdBoh7Gn+i3U0Cnhr+hX+nRYMsk3GkA@mail.gmail.com>

If I recall the choke is meant to be stiff, by design at the dash
mount, so that the cable does not retract by itself. I believe the
shaft that the knob is attached to is notched and there is a a small
ball bearing in the mount to keep the choke at the point where it is
pulled.
I am writing from memory because my TR6 has triple webers and I do not
use the choke, although it is connected.

By contrast, on my MGB I have to twist/turn the choke knob a quarter
turn to keep it at a particular level.

Henri

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 5:29 AM, robert fabie <bobfabie at gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks to all who responded to my stiff choke cable question. Depressing
> the gas pedal before pulling out the choke actually does help reduce the
> tension; couldn't believe it. It's still not  a "smooth" operation and I
> will continue to explore what other carb issues may be contributing to the
> stiffness.
> This list is an amazing resource of knowledge and experience. Thanks again
> Alex & Janet, Dave, Dick and Robert Lang.
> Best,
> Bob Fabie
> Fredericksburg, Va
>
> On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Alex & Janet Thomson <
> aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Always get in the habit of pressing on the accelerator slightly when
>> pulling
>> out the choke knob. That will reduce the amount of force needed to advance
>> the throttle cam.
>>
>> Alex Thomson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On
>> Behalf Of robert fabie
>> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 8:35 AM
>> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
>>
>> Friends,
>> Is there a trick to connecting the choke cables to the carbs that results
>> in
>> the choke knob operating smoothly? It seems to take a lot of force to pull
>> and push the choke cable knob. When not connected to the carbs, the cable
>> operates smoothly and effortlessly. Does anyone else have this problem?
>> Much appreciate your help.
>> Bob
>> '75 TR6
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com
>
>



-- 
Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Tue Jul 10 09:14:05 2012
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 09:14:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Paper Air Filters
In-Reply-To: <F0E916AB-8412-449E-8DB6-1F82F2600EAA@comcast.net>
References: <21894907.652499.1337273375466.JavaMail.root@vms170015>
	<435900281.566069.1337291095352.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<0fb701cd34b1$883c2070$0601a8c0@randall>
	<F0E916AB-8412-449E-8DB6-1F82F2600EAA@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <CAMGa+02cHoD3THvq2TMJPdyUbrku=WWsk_mKE8x-nV0HJ7vkLg@mail.gmail.com>

Bud,

Would it help some more if you sprayed the hot tub covers with K&N air
filter oil or with foam filter spray available at motorcycle shops?

Henri


On Wed, May 30, 2012 at 1:44 PM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
> I put a pair of Joe Alexander's velocity stacks on my TR6 recently along
> with his very nice covers which filter out the big chunks of debris.
>
> Wanting a little more protection and filtering I went looking for something
> to put over the stack covers when I'm not rodding it.  What I found was that
> the cloth drain covers for my hot tub fit nicely with enough resistance to
> not come off when at highway speed.
>
> Don't know how much filtering goes on but it's at least more than before and
> I can just shake them out when I need to and not mess with a lot of
> maintenance.  My oil may get a little dirtier but the engine sure hums with
> the velocity stacks.  I may test a few different types of material (sponge,
> etc.) to put between the stack covers and the drain cover just to see what
> gets caught. Still looking for that fine line between flow and filtering. I
> like power but not replacing rings.
>
> For those with Joe's velocity stacks or just interested:   Part Name/Number:
> Sundance Spas Drain Cover 6540-213.  They are approx. 4 3/4 inches diameter
> and stretch just a wee bit.
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On May 17, 2012, at 10:48 PM, Randall wrote:
>
>>> Can't remember the brand I bought, but they were
>>> round with a flat shiny metal (not chrome) front and back
>>> plate.  Thing is, they didn't fit well, bumped into the fuel lines.
>>
>>
>> I think the round ones are NLA.  But the oval ones from a TR4A fit about
>> as
>> well and are readily available from the usual suspects.  TRF has a 4-pack
>> of
>> them under the P/N LUF8277/4 for $34
>>
>> -- Randall
>> ** triumphs at autox.team.net **
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com
>
>



-- 
Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

From DJFidler at rogers.com  Tue Jul 10 09:48:22 2012
From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 11:48:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
In-Reply-To: <CAMGa+03TNfrLkE2UtUVDdBoh7Gn+i3U0Cnhr+hX+nRYMsk3GkA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CA+aQ7ww=2pc2ZKFfix72Pqfod+LH+vM7OxOrvvob75xTGUjsZw@mail.gmail.com>
	<000801cd55f8$0ae71860$20b54920$@charter.net>
	<CA+aQ7wz2wuim-FG+-mocsxhRWULfboGZZcE493KHmUC-L7iubA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAMGa+03TNfrLkE2UtUVDdBoh7Gn+i3U0Cnhr+hX+nRYMsk3GkA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <024601cd5eb3$6f98bc50$4eca34f0$@com>

The TR6 choke shouldn't be stiff at all, I would guess that there's a kink
in Bob's cables somewhere, or they are sat too high above the carbs and the
bonnet is squishing them down when it closes.

Henri, the TR6 choke is exactly the same as the MGB, you pull it out and
twist a quarter turn clockwise to lock it where you need it.

Of course, it could be possible that Bob has it locked in the closed
position and doesn't realize it... try a quarter turn to the left before
pulling it out Bob, that might release it for you.

Fid.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre
Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 11:08 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable

If I recall the choke is meant to be stiff, by design at the dash
mount, so that the cable does not retract by itself. I believe the
shaft that the knob is attached to is notched and there is a a small
ball bearing in the mount to keep the choke at the point where it is
pulled.
I am writing from memory because my TR6 has triple webers and I do not
use the choke, although it is connected.

By contrast, on my MGB I have to twist/turn the choke knob a quarter
turn to keep it at a particular level.

Henri

On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 5:29 AM, robert fabie <bobfabie at gmail.com> wrote:
> Thanks to all who responded to my stiff choke cable question. Depressing
> the gas pedal before pulling out the choke actually does help reduce the
> tension; couldn't believe it. It's still not  a "smooth" operation and I
> will continue to explore what other carb issues may be contributing to the
> stiffness.
> This list is an amazing resource of knowledge and experience. Thanks again
> Alex & Janet, Dave, Dick and Robert Lang.
> Best,
> Bob Fabie
> Fredericksburg, Va
>
> On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Alex & Janet Thomson <
> aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>
>> Always get in the habit of pressing on the accelerator slightly when
>> pulling
>> out the choke knob. That will reduce the amount of force needed to
advance
>> the throttle cam.
>>
>> Alex Thomson
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On
>> Behalf Of robert fabie
>> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 8:35 AM
>> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
>>
>> Friends,
>> Is there a trick to connecting the choke cables to the carbs that results
>> in
>> the choke knob operating smoothly? It seems to take a lot of force to
pull
>> and push the choke cable knob. When not connected to the carbs, the cable
>> operates smoothly and effortlessly. Does anyone else have this problem?
>> Much appreciate your help.
>> Bob
>> '75 TR6
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com
>
>



-- 
Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jul 10 13:03:18 2012
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 12:03:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
In-Reply-To: <024601cd5eb3$6f98bc50$4eca34f0$@com>
References: <CA+aQ7ww=2pc2ZKFfix72Pqfod+LH+vM7OxOrvvob75xTGUjsZw@mail.gmail.com>,
	<000801cd55f8$0ae71860$20b54920$@charter.net>,
	<CA+aQ7wz2wuim-FG+-mocsxhRWULfboGZZcE493KHmUC-L7iubA@mail.gmail.com>,
	<CAMGa+03TNfrLkE2UtUVDdBoh7Gn+i3U0Cnhr+hX+nRYMsk3GkA@mail.gmail.com>,
	<024601cd5eb3$6f98bc50$4eca34f0$@com>
Message-ID: <COL123-W20B2DA1EB71A8DB1A98AA9F4D20@phx.gbl>

All---Some models of the TR6's CHOKE cables had stiff wire in them. These
retracted by merely pushing the knob* back into the dash. Other cables were a
soft braided wire, that relied on extension springs in the brackets to retract
them. The detent-like feature in the cable behind the knob holds both of these
styles of wire cables in place, when pulled out and turned* a quarter turn.
Bob had mentioned in his post that the cable pull seemed easy to operate when
detached at the carbs, indicating that the stiffness might be from somewhere
else in the choking operation.

Dick
> From: DJFidler at rogers.com
> To: 75teer6 at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 10 Jul 2012 11:48:22 -0400
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
>
> The TR6 choke shouldn't be stiff at all, I would guess that there's a kink
> in Bob's cables somewhere, or they are sat too high above the carbs and the
> bonnet is squishing them down when it closes.
>
> Henri, the TR6 choke is exactly the same as the MGB, you pull it out and
> twist a quarter turn clockwise to lock it where you need it.
>
> Of course, it could be possible that Bob has it locked in the closed
> position and doesn't realize it... try a quarter turn to the left before
> pulling it out Bob, that might release it for you.
>
> Fid.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 11:08 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
>
> If I recall the choke is meant to be stiff, by design at the dash
> mount, so that the cable does not retract by itself. I believe the
> shaft that the knob is attached to is notched and there is a a small
> ball bearing in the mount to keep the choke at the point where it is
> pulled.
> I am writing from memory because my TR6 has triple webers and I do not
> use the choke, although it is connected.
>
> By contrast, on my MGB I have to twist/turn the choke knob a quarter
> turn to keep it at a particular level.
>
> Henri
>
> On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 5:29 AM, robert fabie <bobfabie at gmail.com> wrote:
> > Thanks to all who responded to my stiff choke cable question. Depressing
> > the gas pedal before pulling out the choke actually does help reduce the
> > tension; couldn't believe it. It's still not  a "smooth" operation and I
> > will continue to explore what other carb issues may be contributing to
the
> > stiffness.
> > This list is an amazing resource of knowledge and experience. Thanks
again
> > Alex & Janet, Dave, Dick and Robert Lang.
> > Best,
> > Bob Fabie
> > Fredericksburg, Va
> >
> > On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Alex & Janet Thomson <
> > aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
> >
> >> Always get in the habit of pressing on the accelerator slightly when
> >> pulling
> >> out the choke knob. That will reduce the amount of force needed to
> advance
> >> the throttle cam.
> >>
> >> Alex Thomson
> >>
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
> >> On
> >> Behalf Of robert fabie
> >> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 8:35 AM
> >> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> >> Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
> >>
> >> Friends,
> >> Is there a trick to connecting the choke cables to the carbs that
results
> >> in
> >> the choke knob operating smoothly? It seems to take a lot of force to
> pull
> >> and push the choke cable knob. When not connected to the carbs, the
cable
> >> operates smoothly and effortlessly. Does anyone else have this problem?
> >> Much appreciate your help.
> >> Bob
> >> '75 TR6
> >>
> >> ________________________________________
> >>
> >> 6pack at autox.team.net
> >>
> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >> Unsubscribe:
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net
> >
> > ________________________________________
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> >
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com
> >
> >
>
>
>
> --
> Henri
> 75 TR6, triple webers
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From jattr6 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul 11 11:14:25 2012
From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 17:14:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other
Message-ID: <BLU164-W8665ED403D0E6F8B9FA8C80D10@phx.gbl>

Suggestions for a 1976 TR6 alternator.I do not want to do any mods to
brackets, etc (at this time), i need an easy swap for a new alternator.Anyone
prefer one over another? My alternator 'tested' out ok, but i still have a red
warninglight lite from time to time (most of the time actually). The car is
still in another state - so I only visit it (and my family)once and a while. I
don't have time to do a complete trouble shoot, but suspect the alternator is
going out. (it is original alt. - to the best of my knowledge...or at least
the same one since somewhere prior to 1992 when i bought the car)
Not sure if the Coil would cause the red warning light? (just thinking of
anything in the circuit that may be outside alt/battery)But Dan Masters book
points to battery or alternator.Battery is new...although it goes dead after
sitting for a while...maybe i have a drain/ground problem that is causing
thedrain and maybe even the red warning light. ugh. although i hate the
'replace and see' method, i don't have time currently in my life to trouble
shoot.
thanks!
james

From tr6 at lbcs.ca  Wed Jul 11 13:10:23 2012
From: tr6 at lbcs.ca (Dave More)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 13:10:23 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other
In-Reply-To: <BLU164-W8665ED403D0E6F8B9FA8C80D10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU164-W8665ED403D0E6F8B9FA8C80D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <F1E0A12F-55D0-415A-8543-2A2C21DB031C@lbcs.ca>

If you want to do a no hassle swap then the best route is probably a stock
replacement. While TRF, Moss, and others offer them they are typically priced
with a refundable core, I.e. send them your old one. While I haven't dealt
with them directly BNRParts has an eBay store at
http://www.ebay.com/itm/251073803410?ru=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fsch%2Fi.h
tml%3F_sacat%3D0%26_nkw%3D251073803410%26_rdc%3D1 and they offer a rebuilt
Lucas with no core charge at the same "core less" charge as the others. Might
be worth checking out.

Cheers,
Dave


On 2012-07-11, at 11:14 AM, James_ TR6 <jattr6 at hotmail.com> wrote:

> Suggestions for a 1976 TR6 alternator.I do not want to do any mods to
> brackets, etc (at this time), i need an easy swap for a new
alternator.Anyone
> prefer one over another? My alternator 'tested' out ok, but i still have a
red
> warninglight lite from time to time (most of the time actually). The car is
> still in another state - so I only visit it (and my family)once and a while.
I
> don't have time to do a complete trouble shoot, but suspect the alternator
is
> going out. (it is original alt. - to the best of my knowledge...or at least
> the same one since somewhere prior to 1992 when i bought the car)
> Not sure if the Coil would cause the red warning light? (just thinking of
> anything in the circuit that may be outside alt/battery)But Dan Masters
book
> points to battery or alternator.Battery is new...although it goes dead
after
> sitting for a while...maybe i have a drain/ground problem that is causing
> thedrain and maybe even the red warning light. ugh. although i hate the
> 'replace and see' method, i don't have time currently in my life to trouble
> shoot.
> thanks!
> james
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6 at lbcs.ca

From aljlthomson at charter.net  Wed Jul 11 19:24:14 2012
From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson)
Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 21:24:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other
In-Reply-To: <BLU164-W8665ED403D0E6F8B9FA8C80D10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU164-W8665ED403D0E6F8B9FA8C80D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003001cd5fcd$0c8aa680$259ff380$@charter.net>

James - At the very least, you could put a voltmeter on the battery to see
if the alternator is charging. If you see about 14 volts, then the
alternator is basically good. Maybe there is a bad isolation diode that is
allowing a backfeed current which is discharging the battery. A battery
disconnect switch should take care of that.

Alex Thomson

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James_ TR6
Sent: Wednesday, July 11, 2012 1:14 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other

Suggestions for a 1976 TR6 alternator.I do not want to do any mods to
brackets, etc (at this time), i need an easy swap for a new
alternator.Anyone prefer one over another? My alternator 'tested' out ok,
but i still have a red warninglight lite from time to time (most of the time
actually). The car is still in another state - so I only visit it (and my
family)once and a while. I don't have time to do a complete trouble shoot,
but suspect the alternator is going out. (it is original alt. - to the best
of my knowledge...or at least the same one since somewhere prior to 1992
when i bought the car) Not sure if the Coil would cause the red warning
light? (just thinking of anything in the circuit that may be outside
alt/battery)But Dan Masters book points to battery or alternator.Battery is
new...although it goes dead after sitting for a while...maybe i have a
drain/ground problem that is causing thedrain and maybe even the red warning
light. ugh. although i hate the 'replace and see' method, i don't have time
currently in my life to trouble shoot.
thanks!
james

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jul 12 05:53:28 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 07:53:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other
In-Reply-To: <BLU164-W18AF61E26955D2144E4AA480D10@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU164-W8665ED403D0E6F8B9FA8C80D10@phx.gbl>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1207111524540.9453@isis.mit.edu>
	<BLU164-W18AF61E26955D2144E4AA480D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1207120730590.12625@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Try:

www.dbelectrical.com

One wire:

http://www.dbelectrical.com/c-10635-regular-output.aspx

or

Three wire:

http://www.dbelectrical.com/p-9038-new-chevy-mini-alternator-denso-street-rod-race-3-wire.aspx

You probably want the one-wire unit as it has a higher output capacity, 50 
amps. I use the three-wire unit because my race car has a fan and the 
ignition and that's it. I don't need a zillion amps for that! Also, it 
weighs almost exactly 5 lb which is stupid light. The lightest one I found 
and about equiv (in weight / output) than the Lucas ACR17 (which is the 
lightest of that series that I've found).

The best part was that the 3-wire alternator was about $80 shipped to my 
door for a BRAND NEW ALTERNATOR and no core exchange. The one-wire unit is 
about $10 more shipped to your door.

You'll need to get some spacers to align the pulley to your crank and 
water pump, I found them at the local hardware store (5/16 ID x 1/2 or 3/4 
OD aluminum) at the proper thickness (which I forgot, but I think it's 
3/8"). I used a shortened fan belt which I think is 1135 mm long. It was a 
pretty easy conversion. I also used an off the shelf alternator bracket 
from Mr. Gasket that I cut down - much better than the stock piece and it 
all mounts extremely solid.

I can probably get part numbers if you need them, but I bought the 
alternator, mounted the swivel end to get the alignment and then bought 
the bracket and spacers. Total installation time was 30 - 40 minutes.

Total cost including a new chrome bracket was about $110 or less ($80 for 
the alt., $20 for the bracket, $5 for bolts (I kept the 6mm metric threads 
in the case for the belt tension bolt, so I bought a new one and washer) 
and another $5 or so for the spacers.)

I am _very happy_ with the results.

Side benefit - the alternator shaft is the same size as the Lucas unit so 
you can swap pulleys if you need to. Note, however, that if you have fancy 
aluminum pulleys, you may need to back-cut the pulley to get clearance 
with the alternator body.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


On Wed, 11 Jul 2012, James_ TR6 wrote:

>
> thanks!
> where could i get a Denso? cost?one reply pointed me to a $180 lucas alternator.
>
>
>> Date: Wed, 11 Jul 2012 15:30:40 -0400
>> From: lang at isis.mit.edu
>> To: jattr6 at hotmail.com
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator: Moss or TRF...or other
>>
>> Hi,
>>
>> If the alternator light comes on sometimes and the battery drains when not
>> in use, there's a pretty good chance the alternator is bad. I've seen
>> diodes in the alternator fail that will act like this.
>>
>> If the unit tested out okay, I'd be suspscious of the tester.
>>
>> But your TR6 has a voltmeter, if you jump start the car and run it, what
>> is the voltage reading? If you have a bad diode in the rectifier, you
>> won't see the optimal charging voltage of 13.5 or so volts. I had one burn
>> up one time and all I could get was 12 volts at the meter. It was enough
>> to drive home and the battery was completely flat when I got home.
>>
>> My money is on the alternator (or the integrated voltage regulator).
>>
>> I replaced the alternators on my TR6's years ago with AC Delco units and
>> now I'm switching to Denso units. Cheaper and MUCH MUCH better than any
>> Lucas alternator ever was.
>>
>> regards,
>> rml
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
>> Former NER Solo Chair                          |
>> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Thu Jul 12 15:48:42 2012
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2012 14:48:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] alternator recommendation
Message-ID: <1342129722.28358.YahooMailNeo@web164501.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

A while back I bought an alternator from an ebay outfit called Alternator
Express.   55 amp Bosch. Optional alt for Ford Fiesta with air I think.     It
was virtually a drop-in with no modifications.   Recall I needed a metric nut
and maybe a few washers to get correct alignment with water pump pulley, that
was it.   Flawless for a number of years now.
 
Bruce Simms
73 TR6

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 13 09:04:37 2012
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Fri, 13 Jul 2012 09:04:37 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
In-Reply-To: <024601cd5eb3$6f98bc50$4eca34f0$@com>
References: <CA+aQ7ww=2pc2ZKFfix72Pqfod+LH+vM7OxOrvvob75xTGUjsZw@mail.gmail.com>
	<000801cd55f8$0ae71860$20b54920$@charter.net>
	<CA+aQ7wz2wuim-FG+-mocsxhRWULfboGZZcE493KHmUC-L7iubA@mail.gmail.com>
	<CAMGa+03TNfrLkE2UtUVDdBoh7Gn+i3U0Cnhr+hX+nRYMsk3GkA@mail.gmail.com>
	<024601cd5eb3$6f98bc50$4eca34f0$@com>
Message-ID: <CAMGa+03kM_P5q9S=8dh3jjduegH7gkOGJ788dbQqOqBZZP3y7g@mail.gmail.com>

David,

Yes, you are correct, my mistake.
I confused the Choke with the Temperature control next to it. The Temp
control is notched etc.
Considering that I never use the Choke and seldom use the Temp control
I should have double-checked before hitting the keyboard.

Thank you for the correction.

Henri

On Tue, Jul 10, 2012 at 9:48 AM, David Fidler <DJFidler at rogers.com> wrote:
> The TR6 choke shouldn't be stiff at all, I would guess that there's a kink
> in Bob's cables somewhere, or they are sat too high above the carbs and the
> bonnet is squishing them down when it closes.
>
> Henri, the TR6 choke is exactly the same as the MGB, you pull it out and
> twist a quarter turn clockwise to lock it where you need it.
>
> Of course, it could be possible that Bob has it locked in the closed
> position and doesn't realize it... try a quarter turn to the left before
> pulling it out Bob, that might release it for you.
>
> Fid.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre
> Sent: Tuesday, July 10, 2012 11:08 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
>
> If I recall the choke is meant to be stiff, by design at the dash
> mount, so that the cable does not retract by itself. I believe the
> shaft that the knob is attached to is notched and there is a a small
> ball bearing in the mount to keep the choke at the point where it is
> pulled.
> I am writing from memory because my TR6 has triple webers and I do not
> use the choke, although it is connected.
>
> By contrast, on my MGB I have to twist/turn the choke knob a quarter
> turn to keep it at a particular level.
>
> Henri
>
> On Thu, Jul 5, 2012 at 5:29 AM, robert fabie <bobfabie at gmail.com> wrote:
>> Thanks to all who responded to my stiff choke cable question. Depressing
>> the gas pedal before pulling out the choke actually does help reduce the
>> tension; couldn't believe it. It's still not  a "smooth" operation and I
>> will continue to explore what other carb issues may be contributing to the
>> stiffness.
>> This list is an amazing resource of knowledge and experience. Thanks again
>> Alex & Janet, Dave, Dick and Robert Lang.
>> Best,
>> Bob Fabie
>> Fredericksburg, Va
>>
>> On Fri, Jun 29, 2012 at 9:06 AM, Alex & Janet Thomson <
>> aljlthomson at charter.net> wrote:
>>
>>> Always get in the habit of pressing on the accelerator slightly when
>>> pulling
>>> out the choke knob. That will reduce the amount of force needed to
> advance
>>> the throttle cam.
>>>
>>> Alex Thomson
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
>>> On
>>> Behalf Of robert fabie
>>> Sent: Friday, June 29, 2012 8:35 AM
>>> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>>> Subject: [6pack] Stiff Choke Cable
>>>
>>> Friends,
>>> Is there a trick to connecting the choke cables to the carbs that results
>>> in
>>> the choke knob operating smoothly? It seems to take a lot of force to
> pull
>>> and push the choke cable knob. When not connected to the carbs, the cable
>>> operates smoothly and effortlessly. Does anyone else have this problem?
>>> Much appreciate your help.
>>> Bob
>>> '75 TR6
>>>
>>> ________________________________________
>>>
>>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>>
>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>>> Unsubscribe:
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com
>>
>>
>
>
>
> --
> Henri
> 75 TR6, triple webers
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com
>
>
>



-- 
Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Sun Jul 15 08:54:14 2012
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Sun, 15 Jul 2012 10:54:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] LBCs and Jerry Seinfeld's new show
Message-ID: <002801cd6299$b3b786c0$1b269440$@net>

    Jerry Seinfeld has created a new "show about nothing".  It's called
Comedians in Cars Getting Coffee and the first episode will be shown
Thursday, July 19th at 9:00PM EDT online at Crackle.com (Seinfeld tried to
sell the show to networks but found no takers).  Why am I discussing this
here?  Well, at least two of the cars are British - one is a pretty silver
Austin Healey that Jerry supposedly borrowed from a dealer in the Hamptons
and the other is a Tahiti Blue TR6 that Jerry rented - from me.  The segment
featuring my car was filmed in Manhattan and Brooklyn back in March.  The
concept is that Jerry hand-picked a number of cars that he wanted to drive
and his production staff rounded them up.  Each was fitted with multiple
cameras (both in and outside the car) and Jerry then selected one of his
comedian friends (Colin Quinn in the episode featuring my car) to go for a
ride and get coffee.  Yes, it's a rip off of a number of other shows (e.g.
Carpool, The Car Show, etc.) but there appear to be very few original ideas
on TV (or the Internet) any more.   

   There are two teaser promos out on the Internet, one of them showing some
of the cars (www.youtube.com/watch?v=9Pe7J-8qIPY) and the other dealing more
with the comedians and the actual ingestion of liquids
(www.youtube.com/watch?v=526iGwVdp6o).  I don't see an Emmy in my future,
but it might be worth watching the show, even if just for the cars.

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jul 16 06:02:16 2012
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (Joe Alexander)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 08:02:16 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] CALIFORNIA AIR       youtube link     a TRAILER
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-W623C6312C6DAEE43E7939B96D40@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-W41AC74DBCBD12FB9F1885A96D20@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E6A54C4F4E6-D18-80227@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BLU151-W14D789439BAE4216C51CDA96D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E6F6EA045E6-D18-80A9A@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BLU151-W8DD6FCA01556F0CB0DCE296D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E748E3293C0-D18-814D8@webmail-m058.sysops.aol.com>,
	<BLU151-W338C1F7F50E841AB73A68196D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF2E82978E02B0-8D0-817D6@webmail-m073.sysops.aol.com>
	<BLU151-W58758BFE3D549AF5DD85C196D00@phx.gbl>,
	<8CF310864BE0B4C-1EF4-A52A9@webmail-m035.sysops.aol.com>
	<BLU151-W623C6312C6DAEE43E7939B96D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CF3161FA748DB3-1010-A7D8E@webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>

'California Air' is the Kas Kastner story of his competition years with the
Triumph Factory. This is an exceptional documentary.

It has, included, great footage of our 10th Running of The Kastner Cup at Road
Atlanta. Additionally, if you joined us in your street TR for the weekend,
there's also footage of the Triumph Corral and Triumph Track Tour.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWHfzI8oiw

the YouTube preview public now so it should come up on a search.


John Clancy sent the first lot of discs to us. A.R.E. is doing the final
packaging in a premium DVD case along with the artwork, and then sending in
bubble wrap envelope.

Order Info    $28.00 total in North America

PayPal:     n197tr4 at cs.com

Check:  A.R.E.     645 1ST STREET     JESUP, IOWA   50648

Thanks,

Joe Alexander

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 16 08:34:42 2012
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 07:34:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] wheel trim rings
Message-ID: <1342449282.30844.YahooMailClassic@web160704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I have a set of original TR6 brushed aluminum wheel rings that have some scratches with a dent or two. Overall they are decent but definitely not perfect. Does anyone have some ideas about how they can be fixed up cosmetically? It would be a shame for these rare items to sit and collect dust.

Jim Jones
former TR6 owner

From davjohnston55 at yahoo.com  Mon Jul 16 20:36:00 2012
From: davjohnston55 at yahoo.com (David Johnston)
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 19:36:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 106
In-Reply-To: <mailman.21.1342461603.11934.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.21.1342461603.11934.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1342492560.29538.YahooMailNeo@web111316.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

________________________________
 From: "6pack-request at autox.team.net"
<6pack-request at autox.team.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net 
Sent: Monday, July
16, 2012 11:00 AM
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 106
  
Send 6pack
mailing list submissions to
    6pack at autox.team.net

To subscribe or
unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
   
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
or, via email, send a message
with subject or body 'help' to
    6pack-request at autox.team.net

You can reach
the person managing the list at
    6pack-owner at autox.team.net

When replying,
please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
than "Re: Contents of
6pack digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. CALIFORNIA AIR       youtube link   
a TRAILER (Joe Alexander)
   2. wheel trim rings (Jim Jones)
----------------------------------------------------------------------
Message: 1
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 08:02:16 -0400 (EDT)
From: Joe Alexander
<n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject:
[6pack] CALIFORNIA AIR       youtube link     a TRAILER
Message-ID:
<8CF3161FA748DB3-1010-A7D8E at webmail-d008.sysops.aol.com>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

'California Air' is the Kas Kastner story of
his competition years with the
Triumph Factory. This is an exceptional
documentary.

It has, included, great footage of our 10th Running of The
Kastner Cup at Road
Atlanta. Additionally, if you joined us in your street TR
for the weekend,
there's also footage of the Triumph Corral and Triumph Track
Tour.



http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=twWHfzI8oiw

the YouTube preview
public now so it should come up on a search.


John Clancy sent the first lot
of discs to us. A.R.E. is doing the final
packaging in a premium DVD case
along with the artwork, and then sending in
bubble wrap envelope.

Order Info 
  $28.00 total in North America

PayPal:    n197tr4 at cs.com

Check:  A.R.E.   
645 1ST STREET     JESUP, IOWA   50648

Thanks,

Joe Alexander
------------------------------

Message: 2
Date: Mon, 16 Jul 2012 07:34:42
-0700 (PDT)
From: Jim Jones <jimjcmo at yahoo.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] wheel trim rings
Message-ID:
   
<1342449282.30844.YahooMailClassic at web160704.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Content-Type:
text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have a set of original TR6 brushed aluminum
wheel rings that have some scratches with a dent or two. Overall they are
decent but definitely not perfect. Does anyone have some ideas about how they
can be fixed up cosmetically? It would be a shame for these rare items to sit
and collect dust.

Jim Jones
former TR6 owner


------------------------------
_______________________________________________
6pack mailing list
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


End of
6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 106
*************************************

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Tue Jul 17 16:09:40 2012
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 15:09:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Convex glass for sport rear view outside mirror
Message-ID: <1342562980.62930.YahooMailNeo@web164505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

I have the 4" round sport miiror on both doors.   The passenger side
glass fell out and smashed as I only had the steel retaining ring on that
side.    I would like to try a convex mirror as the flat glass doesn't work on
that side.   I found a 3.75" stick-on convex mirror at Wal-mart, but can find
nothing 4".   I talked to a few glass shops that said they couldn't help.  
TRF has flat glass replacement for 14.00.
 
Ideas and suggestions?
 
Thank
you,
 
Bruce Simms
73 TR6

From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 17 19:44:19 2012
From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 18:44:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Convex glass for sport rear view outside mirror
In-Reply-To: <1342562980.62930.YahooMailNeo@web164505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342562980.62930.YahooMailNeo@web164505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1342575859.25372.YahooMailNeo@web122204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

________________________________
 From: Bruce Simms
<brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 3:09 PM
Subject: [6pack] Convex glass for sport
rear view outside mirror
 
I have the 4" round sport miiror on both doors. 
The passenger side
glass fell out and smashed as I only had the steel
retaining ring on that
side.    I would like to try a convex mirror as the
flat glass doesn't work on
that side.   I found a 3.75" stick-on convex mirror
at Wal-mart, but can find
nothing 4".   I talked to a few glass shops that
said they couldn't help.  
TRF has flat glass replacement for 14.00.

Ideas
and suggestions?

Thank
you,

Bruce Simms
73 TR6
________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Unsubscribe:
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From taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com  Tue Jul 17 19:49:34 2012
From: taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 18:49:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  Convex glass for sport rear view outside mirror
In-Reply-To: <1342575668.93646.YahooMailNeo@web122202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342562980.62930.YahooMailNeo@web164505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<1342575668.93646.YahooMailNeo@web122202.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1342576174.31538.YahooMailNeo@web122204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

----- Forwarded Message -----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor
<taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com>
To: Bruce Simms <brucesimns2003 at yahoo.ca> 
Sent:
Tuesday, July 17, 2012 6:41 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Convex glass for sport
rear view outside mirror
 

Bruce---(Your email name spelling bounced)  Sorry
if this is a repeat...
I think one of the TR parts houses sells the convex
mirror, but don't remember which one. Also don't know if t was the 4" or a
smaller bullet. Some help, huh?   This discovery was sometime after I went to
a junk yard and bought one of the mirrors from the passenger side of an old
Dodge van. This mirror was large enough to make two-4 inchers, so I bought it
for $15. You found, as I did, glass shops weren't interested in making one.
Cobbling together some parts, like the two halves of a bearing packer, I
clamped it into a lathe and made the finished product. (If I were to sell one
of these for $100. I'd be working for about $5/hr.!) Of course I broke the
first attempt, as working with anything but flat glass is a challenge to cut.
Now, does it work? Yes, but not as well as the mirrors that are more
rectangle, like most of the newer cars.
Actually the 3.5 stick-ons give a
better field of view, but look sort of hokey, I think.

Dick
________________________________
 From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Tuesday, July 17,
2012 3:09 PM
Subject: [6pack] Convex glass for sport rear view outside mirror
I have the 4" round sport miiror on both doors.   The passenger side
glass
fell out and smashed as I only had the steel retaining ring on that
side.    I
would like to try a convex mirror as the flat glass doesn't work on
that
side.   I found a 3.75" stick-on convex mirror at Wal-mart, but can find
nothing 4".   I talked to a few glass shops that said they couldn't help. 
TRF has flat glass replacement for 14.00.

Ideas and suggestions?

Thank
you,
Bruce Simms
73 TR6

________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
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From lfm614 at aol.com  Tue Jul 17 19:52:43 2012
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 01:52:43 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Convex glass for sport rear view outside mirror
In-Reply-To: <1342575859.25372.YahooMailNeo@web122204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <1342562980.62930.YahooMailNeo@web164505.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<1342575859.25372.YahooMailNeo@web122204.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1574399140-1342576364-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-177759957-@b3.c20.bise6.blackberry>

You could cut a 4" circle out of sheet metal, mount it in the housing and stick the 3 3/4" mirror to it. Would only see 1/8" around the convex mirror.  I have the 3 3/4" stuck on the glass and it looks fine. Almost goes to the edge anyway. 

Lou 
72 Pimento
-----Original Message-----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com>
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Tue, 17 Jul 2012 18:44:19 
To: Bruce Simms<brucesimns2003 at yahoo.ca>
Reply-To: Sally or Dick Taylor <taylorturbo6 at yahoo.com>
Cc: 6pack list<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Convex glass for sport rear view outside mirror

________________________________
 From: Bruce Simms
<brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, July 17, 2012 3:09 PM
Subject: [6pack] Convex glass for sport
rear view outside mirror
 
I have the 4" round sport miiror on both doors. 
The passenger side
glass fell out and smashed as I only had the steel
retaining ring on that
side.    I would like to try a convex mirror as the
flat glass doesn't work on
that side.   I found a 3.75" stick-on convex mirror
at Wal-mart, but can find
nothing 4".   I talked to a few glass shops that
said they couldn't help.  
TRF has flat glass replacement for 14.00.

Ideas
and suggestions?

Thank
you,

Bruce Simms
73 TR6
________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
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________________________________________

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From rgrothstein at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 18 13:55:41 2012
From: rgrothstein at yahoo.com (Bob Rothstein)
Date: Wed, 18 Jul 2012 12:55:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Convex Glass
Message-ID: <1342641341.36811.YahooMailNeo@web160802.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

  Bruce Sims - an alternative is to visit an auto glass shop, choose a cheap
convex mirror that fits something else, like an F-150, that's been scratched
and can't be installed.  Have them cut it to your own dimensions, and
depending on the size of the stock, they can even cut around the "objects in
mirror are closer than they appear" stenciling.  Not as expensive as you might
think.  Some double-sided tape to stick on your flat glass and you're done.  I
have convex on the right-side mirrors of all my cars, especially the daily
drivers.    

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jul 19 15:10:49 2012
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 16:10:49 -0500
Subject: [6pack] sad story
Message-ID: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>

A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The price was
really good b that should have been my first clue.  He showed  a picture of
the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my second clue.



I did a buy it now, and then asked him if I could have the driveshaft and
overdrive switch as well, to which he agreed, for an additional $65.  Weeks
went by, and finally the tranny (only the tranny) arrived.  he claimed the
driveshaft was the short shaft, part of the tranny, and that it was included.
Lots of email back and forth, and ultimately a complaint on my part to paypal,
since that was outside of the ebay sale.  To which he finally agreend to
return my money, only he sent me the money, not as a refund, so I lost the fee
paypal charges.



The transmission, which was advertised as rebuit 500 miles ago, was not.  the
input shaft was wobbly, and my British car mechanic, who certainly knows
these, said there was no way it had been rebuilt in the last 500 miles.  So I
complained to him, and he offered to return my money if I sent back the
transmission.  I felt he had totally lied to me, and I didnbt trust him, so
I complained to ebay.  They opened a case, and agreed to refund only my
initial money, if I returned the transmission with a confirmation of delivery.
So I did.



Then I discovered that ebay considers confirmation of delivery valid ONLY if
there is a signature.  Which we didnbt have.  So ebay welched, this guy
welched, and Ibm out $550 for the initial deal and another $150 for
shipping.  And a few bucks for the paypal mishap.



The ebay item is: 330744461508



The guys addresses are:

address on invoice is:

DB Business Holdings

372 E Third Street

Corning, N.Y. 14830



address on crate is:

Jason Doughty

2475 Brown Hollow Road

Corning, N.Y. 14830

607-346-3605



And the guys email address is dbbizholdings at gmail.com



His ebay id is db_vintageas



If you google DB Business Holdings you will see it is more of a
shipping/warehouse company.



I now see he has relisted it and will rip off someone else.



DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS GUY!!!!!

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Thu Jul 19 15:18:58 2012
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Thu, 19 Jul 2012 17:18:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] sad story
In-Reply-To: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
References: <E023D743B2FE4E6A920DD61E0F8F89FB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CA+aQ7wyy29GeCz0CoBSHgtVMROZ08yy4NUy4H8MUKcpN-iRjAA@mail.gmail.com>

Dave,

Very sorry to hear of your misfortune. Thanks for passing along the guys
information to save the rest of us from ever dealing with this con.

Bob
Fredericksburg, Va


On Thu, Jul 19, 2012 at 5:10 PM, Dave <dave at ranteer.com> wrote:

> A couple of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The price
> was
> really good b  that should have been my first clue.  He showed  a picture
> of
> the car, not the tranny.  Should have been my second clue.
>
>
>
> I did a buy it now, and then asked him if I could have the driveshaft and
> overdrive switch as well, to which he agreed, for an additional $65.  Weeks
> went by, and finally the tranny (only the tranny) arrived.  he claimed the
> driveshaft was the short shaft, part of the tranny, and that it was
> included.
> Lots of email back and forth, and ultimately a complaint on my part to
> paypal,
> since that was outside of the ebay sale.  To which he finally agreend to
> return my money, only he sent me the money, not as a refund, so I lost the
> fee
> paypal charges.
>
>
>
> The transmission, which was advertised as rebuit 500 miles ago, was not.
>  the
> input shaft was wobbly, and my British car mechanic, who certainly knows
> these, said there was no way it had been rebuilt in the last 500 miles.
>  So I
> complained to him, and he offered to return my money if I sent back the
> transmission.  I felt he had totally lied to me, and I didnb t trust him,
> so
> I complained to ebay.  They opened a case, and agreed to refund only my
> initial money, if I returned the transmission with a confirmation of
> delivery.
> So I did.
>
>
>
> Then I discovered that ebay considers confirmation of delivery valid ONLY
> if
> there is a signature.  Which we didnb t have.  So ebay welched, this guy
> welched, and Ib m out $550 for the initial deal and another $150 for
> shipping.  And a few bucks for the paypal mishap.
>
>
>
> The ebay item is: 330744461508
>
>
>
> The guys addresses are:
>
> address on invoice is:
>
> DB Business Holdings
>
> 372 E Third Street
>
> Corning, N.Y. 14830
>
>
>
> address on crate is:
>
> Jason Doughty
>
> 2475 Brown Hollow Road
>
> Corning, N.Y. 14830
>
> 607-346-3605
>
>
>
> And the guys email address is dbbizholdings at gmail.com
>
>
>
> His ebay id is db_vintageas
>
>
>
> If you google DB Business Holdings you will see it is more of a
> shipping/warehouse company.
>
>
>
> I now see he has relisted it and will rip off someone else.
>
>
>
> DO NOT DO BUSINESS WITH THIS GUY!!!!!
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bobfabie at gmail.com

From Timbo00001 at aol.com  Fri Jul 20 20:41:55 2012
From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Jul 2012 22:41:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] sad story
Message-ID: <68.487ff452.3d3b70f3@aol.com>

Don't trust anything on ebay.  I bought a car that way 2 years  ago and 
still regret it.
 
 
In a message dated 7/19/2012 5:12:09 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dave at ranteer.com writes:

A couple  of weeks ago I purchased an overdrive tranny on ebay.  The price  
was
really good b that should have been my first clue.  He  showed  a picture 
of
the car, not the tranny.  Should have been  my second clue.



I did a buy it now, and then asked him if I  could have the driveshaft and
overdrive switch as well, to which he agreed,  for an additional $65.  Weeks
went by, and finally the tranny (only  the tranny) arrived.  he claimed the
driveshaft was the short shaft,  part of the tranny, and that it was 
included.
Lots of email back and forth,  and ultimately a complaint on my part to 
paypal,
since that was outside of  the ebay sale.  To which he finally agreend to
return my money, only  he sent me the money, not as a refund, so I lost the 
fee
paypal  charges.



The transmission, which was advertised as rebuit 500  miles ago, was not.  
the
input shaft was wobbly, and my British car  mechanic, who certainly knows
these, said there was no way it had been  rebuilt in the last 500 miles.  
So I
complained to him, and he offered  to return my money if I sent back the
transmission.  I felt he had  totally lied to me, and I didnbt trust him, 
so
I complained to ebay.   They opened a case, and agreed to refund only my
initial money, if I  returned the transmission with a confirmation of 
delivery.
So I  did.



Then I discovered that ebay considers confirmation of  delivery valid ONLY 
if
there is a signature.  Which we didnbt  have.  So ebay welched, this guy
welched, and Ibm out $550 for the  initial deal and another $150 for
shipping.  And a few bucks for the  paypal mishap.



The ebay item is:  330744461508



The guys addresses are:

address on invoice  is:

DB Business Holdings

372 E Third Street

Corning, N.Y.  14830



address on crate is:

Jason Doughty

2475  Brown Hollow Road

Corning, N.Y.  14830

607-346-3605



And the guys email address is  dbbizholdings at gmail.com



His ebay id is  db_vintageas



If you google DB Business Holdings you will see it  is more of a
shipping/warehouse company.



I now see he has  relisted it and will rip off someone else.



DO NOT DO BUSINESS  WITH THIS  GUY!!!!!

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/timbo00001 at aol.com

From kingr44916 at aol.com  Sat Jul 21 04:59:30 2012
From: kingr44916 at aol.com (kingr44916 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Jul 2012 06:59:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] wanted tr6
Message-ID: <8CF3547091178B1-C64-DCD6@webmail-d067.sysops.aol.com>

anyone out there have a decent 6 that they want to sell in the ny area

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Sat Jul 28 18:41:58 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Sat, 28 Jul 2012 20:41:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Annual Charity Plea
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1207282034340.14368@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

This message is SPAM, plain and simple. I'm looking for donations to my 
SCCA region's (New England Region) Race Against Leukemia (RAL). All the 
money goes to a 503C3 charity, it's 100% deductable. I get nothing from 
your donations except bragging rights.

If I helped you in any way this year through pictures, stories, etc, 
please consider a donation in any amount. You can donate at the following 
web site:

http://www.firstgiving.com/fundraiser/robert-lang-1/nerrace

The race weekend is the first weekend in AUG, but the site will except 
donations for some time after that, if you get the urge later. ;-)

Thanks in advance!

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Sun Jul 29 07:13:30 2012
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2012 09:13:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Adding Electric Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <CA+aQ7wwaD2H8s+EQwKHmE-7WHfer5PGHzaExPV_0LAW8s8riRw@mail.gmail.com>

Friends,
I'm considering installing a Facet solid state electric fuel pump, but I'd
like to keep the mechanical pump in place for the appearance of
originality. Is there a mechanical/pressure conflict or other problem by
leaving the original pump in place versus blanking it out?
Thanks for your comments.
Bob
'75 TR6

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 29 14:52:58 2012
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2012 16:52:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Adding Electric Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <D4AC34E59D414CB1B088166B317675D1@JerryPC>

Hi Bob

See Moss for their instructions. I did mine differently, added a Holley
pressure regulator to keep the fuel pressure under 3 or so psi. and used a
blanking plate. But according to Moss you can run it through your existing
fuel pump w/o a PR.   Who knows. I would give them a call.  Maybe the fuel
pump acts to moderate the pressure Got my Facet from the Internet #40105 puts
out 4 psi for $35.  Got a Holley PR for another $35.

Anyway, mine works like a charm. Oh, get a combo automotive fuel
pressure/vacuum guage.

Jerry

Message: 2
Date: Sun, 29 Jul 2012 09:13:30 -0400
From: robert fabie <bobfabie at gmail.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Adding Electric Fuel Pump
Message-ID:
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Friends,
I'm considering installing a Facet solid state electric fuel pump, but I'd
like to keep the mechanical pump in place for the appearance of
originality. Is there a mechanical/pressure conflict or other problem by
leaving the original pump in place versus blanking it out?
Thanks for your comments.
Bob
'75 TR6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jul 30 10:47:18 2012
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 30 Jul 2012 12:47:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Could Someone...
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1207301245000.27179@isis.mit.edu>

... contact me off list with contact info for whoever is "in charge" of 6 
Pack?

I looked on the 6 Pack web site and didn't find anything but that could be 
because I'm not a current member.

We're trying to do some "planning" and would like 6 Pack to be part of the 
party.

c ya,
rml
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Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
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