From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Sep 1 06:14:44 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 08:14:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] wiring question Message-ID: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Sep 1 10:48:31 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 1 Sep 2011 16:48:31 +0000 Subject: [6pack] wiring question In-Reply-To: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> References: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: Andrew, What is the 'brake safety', and do you have the good color wiring schematic diagram? The only white wires I see on the 250 diagram are all from the ignition swith to the alternator and brake warning lamps, and back to the fuse box. I'll forward the diagram if you don't have it. Sloane :) 69-Six > > I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have > come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake > safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. > There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. From gaf3 at charter.net Fri Sep 2 12:13:03 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Fri, 02 Sep 2011 14:13:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Valve Spring Installed Height Dimension Message-ID: <4E611CAF.7080902@charter.net> Group Does anyone out there have the proper dimension for valve installed height for a later model 1974 TR6 engine. This is the dimension between the valve spring retainer and head. I remember finding this for my Spit Race car engine but can't seem to locate it for the TR6. I just finished up a 3 angle valve job on a customers car and I would like to assemble it with the proper shims but can't seem to locate the right dimension. Currently the height after machining it is 1.250". My machine shop can't find the dimension either. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks Glenn Franco From johnehorton at yahoo.com Fri Sep 2 18:26:27 2011 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 17:26:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <1315009587.51283.YahooMailMobile@web39310.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://gfczech.phorum.cz/indexty120.php From johnehorton at yahoo.com Fri Sep 2 18:26:44 2011 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 2 Sep 2011 17:26:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <1315009604.80179.YahooMailMobile@web39305.mail.mud.yahoo.com> http://raggs.tym.cz/indexty120.php From janah at att.net Sat Sep 3 01:56:08 2011 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 03:56:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Brazing? Message-ID: <78034390EDAD42529A25D01A906F7E06@p4home> As my car is stripped of paint, we are learning about its history. We know it was hit in the back. The rear valence has been replaced. There is a stress crack in the rear left wheel well. There is a buckle in ther right side rear wheel well. The deck lid has been repared. I am pretty certain the right side door has been replaced. I also see a fair amount of brass brazing. Idid the bactory use brass braze to hold things togeth Johm Cyg CC52927LO 1870 Damson From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Sep 3 11:05:06 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 13:05:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Brazing? In-Reply-To: <78034390EDAD42529A25D01A906F7E06@p4home> References: <78034390EDAD42529A25D01A906F7E06@p4home> Message-ID: The factory did not braze body parts together, but DPOs (dumb previous owners) did. My TR250 was a patchwork of pieces brazed together, the fenders were brazed to all adjacent structures and the beading was finally brazed onto the fenders. It was a mess - but not uncommon. Andrew Uprichard (hopefully will never be called a DPO) -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Cyganowski Sent: Saturday, September 03, 2011 3:56 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Brazing? As my car is stripped of paint, we are learning about its history. We know it was hit in the back. The rear valence has been replaced. There is a stress crack in the rear left wheel well. There is a buckle in ther right side rear wheel well. The deck lid has been repared. I am pretty certain the right side door has been replaced. I also see a fair amount of brass brazing. Idid the bactory use brass braze to hold things togeth Johm Cyg CC52927LO 1870 Damson ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Sep 3 14:38:00 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 16:38:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Retr0bright update Message-ID: I posted recently about the possible benefit of Retr0bright on the washer bottle. Well, I am glad to report the same mixture had a dramatic effect on the non-return valve from the servo. Started off almost brown and, after 2 applications, is - well, not the pearly white of my kids' teeth, but along the lines of the wanna-be-white of mine. Oh, and this is one part (the non-return valve) which is not as readily available as the washer bottle. Andrew Uprichard From forzion7 at gmail.com Sat Sep 3 15:35:09 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 3 Sep 2011 17:35:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Retr0bright update In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There certainly is an odd and seemingly random list of Six parts that are No Longer Available and for no obvious (to me) reason. They used to make tranny tunnel covers to allow access to the overdrive solenoid (Type A) and speedo cable right angle area) -- but, since they started seeling those plastic tunnel covers, access plates are NLS; front license plate frames, the non-return valve Andrew mentions and, I'm sure,a long list of parts others could mention.... Dave '74-Six w/A-OD + TBI On Sat, Sep 3, 2011 at 4:38 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > I posted recently about the possible benefit of Retr0bright on the washer > bottle. Well, I am glad to report the same mixture had a dramatic effect > on > the non-return valve from the servo. Started off almost brown and, after 2 > applications, is - well, not the pearly white of my kids' teeth, but along > the lines of the wanna-be-white of mine. > > > > Oh, and this is one part (the non-return valve) which is not as readily > available as the washer bottle. > > > > Andrew Uprichard > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Mon Sep 5 07:02:02 2011 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Mon, 5 Sep 2011 06:02:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] wiring question In-Reply-To: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> References: <9795DA250F1A48E086B81059771DF7A2@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <1315227722.58472.YahooMailNeo@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Andrew On the 1974 TR-6, in the area you described, there is a 3 prong oil pressure switch. Black is to ground, White / Brown to oil pressure light, and White / Pink to the anti - run on valve. Other then that I have no idea. Hope that this may help. Dale From: Andrew Uprichard To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, September 1, 2011 8:14 AM Subject: [6pack] wiring question I am installing a new harness in my TR250 (thanks to Marv Gruber) and have come across two wires I cannot account for. They arise adjacent to the brake safety, and are both about 3 inches long. One is white and one black. There were no corresponding wires in the old harness. I am assuming the black is a ground, but the white? By the way, this is not the ignition feed to the coil, which comes off in a loom about a further down the main harness. Does anyone have any ideas? Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 6 09:58:57 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 10:58:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] temperature gage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9A3394ACD8374062A66F4841BB74F24C@ranteer.local> anyone have a decent early TR6 temperature gage for sale? From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Tue Sep 6 13:57:58 2011 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Tue, 6 Sep 2011 12:57:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] parts for sale Message-ID: <1315339078.12099.YahooMailClassic@web160711.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Friends: I have an assortment of leftover parts available. The buyer of my car has not yet made arrangements to have them shipped to him and I don't know when, or if that will happen. If I don't hear from him by the end of next week I will put them up for sale at very reasonable prices. In some cases I will charge only for shipping. The list follows: New rear bumper in the shipping box - $100 + shipping cost. Four boxes of various parts, hardware, hoses, fasteners - must take ALL FOUR boxes, for shipping cost only. Set of four orignal OE aluminum wheel trim rings - scratches, but presentable. $50 plus shipping cost. Set of four original OE black wheel hub caps, good condition with new TR6 logos included $20 + shipping Original rear lever shocks - shipping cost only Six OE steel wheels, sandblasted years ago, minimal rust, ready for repaint with minimal sanding - shipping cost only. The original spare tire and wheel - shipping cost only Two OE aircleaner boxes in just okay condition, one has a dent, both need paint - one with intake tubes and one 1972 or later style - for shipping cost only. OE valve cover with silicone gasket, needs paint - for shipping cost only Original ZS carbs with intake manifold, plus two extra carbs - $25 + shipping cost Original OE door window glass channels, in good shape - shipping cost only Original OE front sway bar - shipping cost only Please forward this to the 6-Pack forum. Anyone interested in the parts, contact me off list. (Still dreaming of the "next project". Maybe a TR4 stuffed with a six cylinder, and stripped down and painted like a Group 44 TR250. Maybe someday.) Cheers, Jim Jones From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Wed Sep 7 18:35:12 2011 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2011 17:35:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] parts for sale Message-ID: <1315442112.48010.YahooMailClassic@web160718.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Friends - I've been deluged with emails about the parts I have available, and I am heartened that there are so many of us who want to keep these old cars alive. Please be patient with me. I'm still working full time (and a half), plus seeing to my wife's needs between her treatments. It will take me a while to answer all of you. Some parts like the rear bumper and the carbs are already spoken for. I will attempt to answer your questions as soon as I can. Wishing you all well, and keep your cars going! Jim Jones From brian at asmoothmove.biz Thu Sep 8 08:41:24 2011 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 09:41:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trip down I-35 Message-ID: <006501cc6e35$62a2a4d0$27e7ee70$@biz> I am contemplating a trip from Minnesota to San Antonio in my '72 TR-6 the third week of September. Can you please contact me off-list if you live close to interstate 35 and are willing to take a call from me should I break down en-route? The car is a 7-year-old frame-off and I do carry triple-A. Thanks, Brian J. Alwin CC79085 From wmp at charter.net Thu Sep 8 09:30:58 2011 From: wmp at charter.net (Bill Palmer) Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2011 11:30:58 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 77 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <96A95EBB-B9C1-4ECC-BD8E-97C6A8F1FFB4@charter.net> Is it possible to replace the clear light bulbs located behind the instruments (temp, fuel,oil and volts) with bulbs that are green? During my restoration I find that the each instrument has a green piece of plastic meant to cast a green glow. Out of the four some plastic is missing or damaged. Would like to replace with LED if possible. Thanks in advance for any help. From jsnable at mac.com Thu Sep 8 22:13:03 2011 From: jsnable at mac.com (Jay Snable) Date: Thu, 08 Sep 2011 21:13:03 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Green bulbs In-Reply-To: <96A95EBB-B9C1-4ECC-BD8E-97C6A8F1FFB4@charter.net> References: <96A95EBB-B9C1-4ECC-BD8E-97C6A8F1FFB4@charter.net> Message-ID: I had my gauges overhauled by Palo Alto Speedometer and they gave me some green bulb sleeves to use. Not sure where you would get such a thing, but they may be able to provide them. Jay '73 TR6 On Sep 8, 2011, at 8:30 AM, Bill Palmer wrote: > Is it possible to replace the clear light bulbs located behind the instruments (temp, fuel,oil and volts) with bulbs that are green? > During my restoration I find that the each instrument has a green piece of plastic meant to cast a green glow. Out of the four some plastic is missing or damaged. > > Would like to replace with LED if possible. > > Thanks in advance for any help. > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jsnable at mac.com From ken at azkiwis.com Fri Sep 9 07:38:54 2011 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 06:38:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Green bulbs In-Reply-To: References: <96A95EBB-B9C1-4ECC-BD8E-97C6A8F1FFB4@charter.net> Message-ID: >> Would like to replace with LED if possible. >> I have replaced a number of LBC dash bulbs with an LED equivalent, and they are much brighter. I like them. I'm not at home until next week, but I'll get the info - model #, vendor etc and post them. IIRC, they were about a buck or so each... Ken From mcmeganutt at aol.com Fri Sep 9 12:43:48 2011 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 14:43:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] CTRiumph.com 31st Annual Show Message-ID: <8CE3D378BD7F35E-1890-8EEE@webmail-stg-d12.sysops.aol.com> MARK THIS DAY ON YOUR CALENDAR: SEPTEMBER 11TH 2011!! 31st ANNUAL BRITISH MOTORCAR GATHERING AND PICNIC Sunday, September 11th, 2011 / Wickham Park, Manchester, CT / Exit 60 off I-84 Venue The Connecticut Triumph Register invites anyone with a British motorcar or motorcycle of any make, model, and condition to join the fun. Wickham Park, with 250 acres of gardens, open fields, woodlands, ponds, picnic areas, sports facilities,and other attractions, is a beautiful venue for this autumn event. Signs within the park will direct participants to the registration and field parking area. Dash plaques will be provided while supplies last. Food and Family Fun Meet and mingle with other Triumph and British vehicle owners. Bring your own picnic or purchase food and beverage at the event. Tennis and volleyball courts are available. Class awards and raffle are the afternoon highlight. You must be present to win raffle items. Regalia CTR t-shirts, golf shirts, hats, decals, and pins will be available for purchase. Schedule 9:30 AM - 11:00 AM: Registration and Preparation 11:00 AM - 12:30 PM: Judging (participantbs choice) Class Awards @ 1:30 PM; Raffles @ 12:30 and 2PM From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 9 20:44:53 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 21:44:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 Message-ID: <0288F6DED0FC493DAF0F3695338EED4F@ranteer.local> my pdwa is leaking. actually, the plastic electical connection on top is leaking. can I get a replacement? can I get it rebuilt? do I need to find/buy a used one? thanks! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Sep 9 21:45:56 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 22:45:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] headlight and blinker problem Message-ID: I replaced the temp gauge and the speedo (both were broken). now the blinkers and headlights don't work. the dash lights, parking lights, and interior (door open) lights work. time to work through the wiring diagram, which I have glanced at. any thoughts on what I might have done? From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Sep 10 05:51:34 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 07:51:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 In-Reply-To: <0288F6DED0FC493DAF0F3695338EED4F@ranteer.local> References: <0288F6DED0FC493DAF0F3695338EED4F@ranteer.local> Message-ID: This is why so many people stuck a bolt in and forgot about it. The plastic electrical elements are available from Moss. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 10:45 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 my pdwa is leaking. actually, the plastic electical connection on top is leaking. can I get a replacement? can I get it rebuilt? do I need to find/buy a used one? thanks! ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Sep 10 06:10:13 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 12:10:13 +0000 Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 Message-ID: <1867773072-1315656612-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-840785362-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> The plastic switch is not the leak. There are two small orings on the shuttle inside, that are probably leaking, easy to rebuild. There is even a Moss youtube video on how. Why would you want to disable a device that tells you if you are losing half your brakes on a 35+ year old car? Lou ------Original Message------ From: Andrew Uprichard Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: 'oliver' To: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 Sent: Sep 10, 2011 6:51 AM This is why so many people stuck a bolt in and forgot about it. The plastic electrical elements are available from Moss. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 10:45 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 my pdwa is leaking. actually, the plastic electical connection on top is leaking. can I get a replacement? can I get it rebuilt? do I need to find/buy a used one? thanks! ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From djfidler at rogers.com Sat Sep 10 06:13:45 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 08:13:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 In-Reply-To: <0288F6DED0FC493DAF0F3695338EED4F@ranteer.local> References: <0288F6DED0FC493DAF0F3695338EED4F@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <0A15FB6E-5C73-45F6-ADA3-F3A90310FBE4@rogers.com> You can rebuild it, chances are the little o rings are worn and fluid is leaking around to the center, where the switch screws in. There are several articles on the internet about how to rebuild a pdwa and on the 6-pack forums. You can buy the rebuild kit from Moss for around $10. Alternatively, the shuttle inside might have been thrown off center, which is what it's supposed to do. Maybe u bled ur brakes recently? See if your brake warning light is on? If it is, then it needs recentering. Again, the forums will tell u how this is done. Best regards, Fid. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 9, 2011, at 10:44 PM, "oliver" wrote: > my pdwa is leaking. > > actually, the plastic electical connection on top is leaking. > > can I get a replacement? can I get it rebuilt? do I need to find/buy a used > one? > > thanks! > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From jimmble at roadrunner.com Sat Sep 10 06:46:32 2011 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 08:46:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 In-Reply-To: <1867773072-1315656612-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-840785362-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> References: <1867773072-1315656612-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-840785362-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> Message-ID: <4E6B5C28.6080202@roadrunner.com> There are 2 different style valves. One uses o-ring seals, the other uses cup seals that are NLS. They look and act the same in function. Jim On 9/10/2011 8:10 AM, lfm614 at aol.com wrote: > The plastic switch is not the leak. There are two small orings on the shuttle inside, that are probably leaking, easy to rebuild. There is even a Moss youtube video on how. > > Why would you want to disable a device that tells you if you are losing half your brakes on a 35+ year old car? > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: Andrew Uprichard > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: 'oliver' > To: TR-6 list > Subject: Re: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 > Sent: Sep 10, 2011 6:51 AM > > This is why so many people stuck a bolt in and forgot about it. The plastic > electrical elements are available from Moss. > > Andrew Uprichard > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of oliver > Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 10:45 PM > To: Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 > > my pdwa is leaking. > > actually, the plastic electical connection on top is leaking. > > can I get a replacement? can I get it rebuilt? do I need to find/buy a > used > one? > > thanks! > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimmble at roadrunner.com > > > > __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 6452 (20110910) __________ > > The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus. > > http://www.eset.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Sep 10 10:38:07 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 11:38:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fw: pdwa - 72 tr6 Message-ID: <28A250E23DD7426E80A70EC762AE8B8E@ranteer.local> as a temporary fix, I have verified that the needed bolt is a very very short 3/8" fine thread. thanks to Irv for pointing that out. From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Sep 10 12:00:17 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 14:00:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 In-Reply-To: <1867773072-1315656612-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-840785362-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> References: <1867773072-1315656612-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-840785362-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> Message-ID: <7F087CA0B93142878E2A3257B2166931@DCH6RFC1> I wouldn't want to, but I have seen several cars (including my 250 when I bought it) with a bolt in place. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lfm614 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, September 10, 2011 8:10 AM To: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 The plastic switch is not the leak. There are two small orings on the shuttle inside, that are probably leaking, easy to rebuild. There is even a Moss youtube video on how. Why would you want to disable a device that tells you if you are losing half your brakes on a 35+ year old car? Lou ------Original Message------ From: Andrew Uprichard Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: 'oliver' To: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 Sent: Sep 10, 2011 6:51 AM This is why so many people stuck a bolt in and forgot about it. The plastic electrical elements are available from Moss. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Friday, September 09, 2011 10:45 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 my pdwa is leaking. actually, the plastic electical connection on top is leaking. can I get a replacement? can I get it rebuilt? do I need to find/buy a used one? thanks! ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Sep 10 15:40:21 2011 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 17:40:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] headlight and blinker problem (oliver) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Oliver, What year TR6? Bob From mcmeganutt at aol.com Sat Sep 10 17:01:28 2011 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 19:01:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Fwd: CTR Wickham Park Event In-Reply-To: <000f01cc7008$645ae6f0$2d10b4d0$@charter.net> References: <000f01cc7008$645ae6f0$2d10b4d0$@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CE3E24B525DBC5-32AC-13023@webmail-stg-m02.sysops.aol.com> -----Original Message----- From: Alex & Janet Thomson To: Alex & Janet Thomson Sent: Sat, Sep 10, 2011 6:24 pm Subject: CTR Wickham Park Event CTR Members b The rain and clouds have disappeared and the 31st Annual British Motorcar Gathering and Picnic is ready to go! It will take place tomorrow 9/11 at Wickham Park in Manchester. Not able to drive your LBC? Thatbs okay- come to the Gathering to mingle with other members and guests from other British Car Clubs. See some exquisite examples of restoration. Also, see some daily drivers b the kind of car that so many of us enjoy. Get your technical questions answered. Bring a picnic or buy lunch provided by the Boy Scouts. Check the direct link below for details. See you tomorrow! Alex and Janet Thomson Connecticut Triumph Register http://www.ctriumph.com/triumph_7-a_019.htm From trdoctor at aol.com Sat Sep 10 19:21:32 2011 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark) Date: Sat, 10 Sep 2011 20:21:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] PDWA In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <10C0DEDD-8C70-4BB2-AD4F-17A6FA994BC6@aol.com> It is the o-rings in the valve that need to be replaced. Easy job. Just be sure to use EP material. I have some (if I can find them) if you need them. I think I bought them from a place that handles hydraulics. Take the valve with you to ensure you get the proper size. Sam On Sep 10, 2011, at 1:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Message: 2 > Date: Fri, 9 Sep 2011 21:44:53 -0500 > From: "oliver" > To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [6pack] pdwa - 72 tr6 > Message-ID: <0288F6DED0FC493DAF0F3695338EED4F at ranteer.local> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > my pdwa is leaking. > > actually, the plastic electical connection on top is leaking. > > can I get a replacement? can I get it rebuilt? do I need to find/buy a used > one? > > thanks! From jberg at bepc.com Sun Sep 11 12:11:50 2011 From: jberg at bepc.com (Jim Berg) Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 18:11:50 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 quit running Message-ID: <7309D877DB1A32478B8E5FB446DD2C3501DB99@HDQ1112.bepc.net> All, I was about 7 blocks from home shifting from 3rd to 4th on the highway when the car just quit running. Would not start back up. So, towed the 76 TR6 home. I am getting spark, put new rotor on and tried starting it again. No luck. I dumped just a small amount of gas in the front carb (weber) and the car started right up. Can I assume that the problem is the fuel pump? Any other thoughts? Thanks, Jim From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun Sep 11 21:22:05 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sun, 11 Sep 2011 20:22:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Help me understand my fuel pump Message-ID: <1315797725.22441.YahooMailNeo@web65614.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Replacement mechanical fuel pump from Moss 3 years ago, very few miles. Car died the other night. See through fuel filter was dirty. Top and screen off pump. Cleaned out bottom, but didn't look that bad. Cracked line at outlet hose. No fuel getting out on either hand pumping or when I crank it over on the starter. No pressure needed to use the hand pump. doesn't feel right. Cracked fuel inlet hose. Fuel drained out of hose until I plugged it. Some fuel in bottom of pump. Guage shows tank 3/4 full. What to do next? I have the original pump and a TRF rebuild kit. Only reason I took original pump off was it was leaking out the top. Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From ken at azkiwis.com Mon Sep 12 19:00:09 2011 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 18:00:09 -0700 Subject: [6pack] LED Replacement Bulbs for Dash Message-ID: <357F245FF9F74EF0ABE75F41A6A47EC4@AcerNotebook> Several expressed interest in the LED bulbs I used to replace the dim bulbs in the dash - gauges, indicators etc... Most - but not all - the bulbs I found were of a 12v screw base variety, though I did fine 1 bayonet type, a remnant of a prior fix I think. The gauges are definitely brighter, I can now see the ign, oil, turn and hi-beam indicators. I got mine from http://www.LEDlight.com the particular bulb I chose is 87965W Short Round. Buy a dozen or more and you get a discount... Ken 73 TR6, fading glory... From johnehorton at yahoo.com Mon Sep 12 20:14:03 2011 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 19:14:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Pistons. Anyone? Message-ID: <1315880043.14616.YahooMailNeo@web39306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does anyone have any experience with WISECO pistons? John H. From jmitch at snet.net Mon Sep 12 20:37:37 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 22:37:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] I think my coil died Message-ID: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag From 70tr6 at comcast.net Mon Sep 12 21:07:47 2011 From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 23:07:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> Message-ID: <72F2E602-5D63-4DB4-B515-8BA488F2EABB@comcast.net> Several years ago I installed a Lucas sports coil in place of a working but dirty and old blue Bosch unit. The Lucas unit lasted, maybe two weeks. I reinstalled the Bosch unit and have been thinking of other things for years, but not the coil. Ashford Little 70tr6 at comcast.net On Sep 12, 2011, at 10:37 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/70tr6 at comcast.net From member at linkedin.com Mon Sep 12 21:26:09 2011 From: member at linkedin.com (Mark Eden via LinkedIn) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 03:26:09 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Invitation to connect on LinkedIn Message-ID: <1205847733.711231.1315884369545.JavaMail.app@ela4-bed82.prod> LinkedIn ------------ Mark Eden requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn: ------------------------------------------ Adam, I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - Mark Accept invitation from Mark Eden http://www.linkedin.com/e/-ocjtmm-gsibktqd-2b/qS0JKohCT2UogsJQqP3r1XsCApOOGYIH/blk/I3106660654_2/1BpC5vrmRLoRZcjkkZt5YCpnlOt3RApnhMpmdzgmhxrSNBszYOnPgRdz0SdzoMcjd9bQZ5jmQVs5pxbPgPdz8Udz4UcjgLrCBxbOYWrSlI/EML_comm_afe/?hs=false&tok=01aQdlEGGeFkU1 View invitation from Mark Eden http://www.linkedin.com/e/-ocjtmm-gsibktqd-2b/qS0JKohCT2UogsJQqP3r1XsCApOOGYIH/blk/I3106660654_2/39vd3kSc3oSdz0NcQALqnpPbOYWrSlI/svi/?hs=false&tok=3mzez2QvWeFkU1 ------------------------------------------ DID YOU KNOW LinkedIn can help you find the right service providers using recommendations from your trusted network? Using LinkedIn Services, you can take the risky guesswork out of selecting service providers by reading the recommendations of credible, trustworthy members of your network. http://www.linkedin.com/e/-ocjtmm-gsibktqd-2b/svp/inv-25/?hs=false&tok=1YClu842qeFkU1 -- (c) 2011, LinkedIn Corporation From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Sep 13 00:27:30 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 12 Sep 2011 23:27:30 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> Message-ID: <5C5D37A0-1771-4656-99C6-3961290A7243@comcast.net> Those were the very same results, from the very same reasons ... hot engine ... replacing the coil fixed it just fine ... Can't say about the ballast resistor, but I would imagine 12 volts would be correct ... they seem to be in every thing since 12 volt batteries were put on the market. On Sep 12, 2011, at 7:37 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA anabil007 at comcast.net From jberg at bepc.com Tue Sep 13 06:32:33 2011 From: jberg at bepc.com (Jim Berg) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 12:32:33 +0000 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump Message-ID: <7309D877DB1A32478B8E5FB446DD2C3501DF06@HDQ1112.bepc.net> Thanks to all for the tips regarding my post on the TR 6 just quitting at highway speeds. I did disconnect the fuel line before the first carb and tried to start the car for at least 45 seconds. Never saw any gas. I will pull the filter and pump and replace. Anybody know of a good way to plug the fuel line upon disconnecting??! Thanks again. Jim From 75teer6 at gmail.com Tue Sep 13 06:45:06 2011 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 06:45:06 -0600 Subject: [6pack] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> Message-ID: John, A friend was describing similar symptoms with his TR6 this weekend. In his case the fuel line was almost completely plugged. When the car was cooling, the fuel would slowly refill the line, fuel filter and fuel pump then start and run for a while. As soon as he would push it hard to accelerate it would stumble then die. Cool down, start all over. Just a thought in case it might be a fuel issue! Henri On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 8:37 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. > Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded > like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started > right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I > have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is > 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special > 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com > > > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Sep 13 07:42:18 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 09:42:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Pistons. Anyone? In-Reply-To: <1315880043.14616.YahooMailNeo@web39306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1315880043.14616.YahooMailNeo@web39306.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 12 Sep 2011 johnehorton at yahoo.com wrote: > Does anyone have any experience with WISECO pistons? John H. A lot of the Triumph racers use these. Especially the "tractor" TRs. I don't have direct experience with this brand, but they are FORGED pistons. Keep this in mind if your intent is a hot street motor, e.g. you probably won't like the piston slap when the motor is cold. That said, if you're building a race motor - this is a good choice. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Sep 13 07:46:56 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 13:46:56 +0000 Subject: [6pack] I think my coil died In-Reply-To: References: <4E6EC1F1.7090909@snet.net> Message-ID: <1704931486-1315921605-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1202386168-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> I have seen that happen when the fuel vent line / separator is plugged from over filling and the carbs draw a vacuum on the tank. Open the gas cap and see if it will run. If it does, blow out the vent line from the charcoal canister back to the tank with low pressure air. Lou 72 Pimento -----Original Message----- From: Henri Lefebvre <75teer6 at gmail.com> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 06:45:06 To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] I think my coil died John, A friend was describing similar symptoms with his TR6 this weekend. In his case the fuel line was almost completely plugged. When the car was cooling, the fuel would slowly refill the line, fuel filter and fuel pump then start and run for a while. As soon as he would push it hard to accelerate it would stumble then die. Cool down, start all over. Just a thought in case it might be a fuel issue! Henri On Mon, Sep 12, 2011 at 8:37 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > I took the TR6 out for gas and it ran great until the engine got hot. > Then it stalled and all attempts to restart failed, although it sounded > like it wanted to catch. I got towed home and a few hours later, it started > right up, but died once it got hot. Does that sound like a bad coil? I > have an NOS Lucas HP6 coil and was wondering if I can use that. My car is > 76 with ballast resistor. Can I use a 6 volt coil, or do I need a special > 12 volt coil? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com > > > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From aktifspeed at gmail.com Tue Sep 13 13:25:54 2011 From: aktifspeed at gmail.com (Erik Sulcs) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 15:25:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] I think my coil died Message-ID: John, The symptoms you describe are the same for when fuel is percolating in the carbs when under hood temps get real hot. I installed a heat shield below the carbs to somewhat protect them from my exhaust header heat. This only mitigated the problem, but did not solve the issue of the fuel basically boiling in the carbs and causing the carbs to stall the engine especially at idle. The problem usually does not occur at higher revs. I'm also wrapping my headers to try and bring the temps down near the carbs, but I'm not sure that will fix the stalling problem either. Erik S. From wayne at motorcarriage.com Tue Sep 13 15:17:43 2011 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 17:17:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 1964 TR4 For Sale in Mass. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Nice solid straight Tub. Engine is out but is complete together and turns freely. Carbs and Header in tact under Hood. American Racing Mags. I'm reducing price to $2500.00 in order to free up space. Please email for pictures. Some rust on outer rockers. Has never been patched up, and still Has original BRG Paint I believe. Includes Fiberglass Top. Sold TR6, this one and a 69 Spitfire Mk3 must go to make room for 71 March 719 Vintage Formula Ford. Otherwise, I'd hold onto the TR4. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 508-499-6746 wayne at sportscracer.com for pictures. I will get more once the Spit is moved and I can get this in the driveway. ======= Email scanned by PC Tools - No viruses or spyware found. (Email Guard: 7.0.0.27, Virus/Spyware Database: 6.18310) http://www.pctools.com/ ======= From dctr6 at optonline.net Tue Sep 13 15:52:51 2011 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 17:52:51 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [6Pack} Fuel pump Message-ID: <000501cc725f$7bf27a90$73d76fb0$@net> Jim Berg wrote: >Anybody know of a good way to plug the fuel line upon disconnecting?? Jim - I found that the cap from an old Bic pen works quite nicely. It's tapered so you can jam it into the fuel line enough to make it tight and the little tab that usually clips on your pocket (or your "pocket protector") makes a nice handle when it comes time to pull it out. I carry 2 in my tool box. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Tue Sep 13 15:54:26 2011 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Tue, 13 Sep 2011 14:54:26 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] fuel pump In-Reply-To: <7309D877DB1A32478B8E5FB446DD2C3501DF06@HDQ1112.bepc.net> References: <7309D877DB1A32478B8E5FB446DD2C3501DF06@HDQ1112.bepc.net> Message-ID: <1315950866.86762.YahooMailNeo@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A golf tee or something similar worked for me. Dale From: Jim Berg To: "'6pack at autox.team.net'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 13, 2011 8:32 AM Subject: [6pack] fuel pump Thanks to all for the tips regarding my post on the TR 6 just quitting at highway speeds. I did disconnect the fuel line before the first carb and tried to start the car for at least 45 seconds. Never saw any gas. I will pull the filter and pump and replace. Anybody know of a good way to plug the fuel line upon disconnecting??! Thanks again. Jim ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From jberg at bepc.com Wed Sep 14 06:28:14 2011 From: jberg at bepc.com (Jim Berg) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 12:28:14 +0000 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited Message-ID: <7309D877DB1A32478B8E5FB446DD2C3501E1D6@HDQ1112.bepc.net> List, I proceeded to remove the fuel pump after work last night. Used a hemostat to crimp the fuel line below the filter. (Received many tips on that by the way) Removed the fuel line to carb, bone dry. Removed the line from the tank, fuel present. I took off the pump and found that the arm that fits in the block and rides on the cam was not attached to the pump! The pin that holds the arm in the pump and spring had somehow worked their way loose. Anyway, refit the pin and other needed parts, refit the pump and she runs like a top again. I never would have guessed that one. From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Sep 14 07:13:37 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 06:13:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] British Invasion and Vermont road closures Message-ID: <1316006017.14295.YahooMailNeo@web160315.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> All: As many of you are well aware, many portions of Vermont got the heck kicked out of it during Tropical Storm Irene. The number of houses, roads, and bridges that were destroyed or heavily damaged are still being counted. Northern Vermont (including Stowe) escaped relatively unscathed, with the middle and southern portions of the state suffering the worst of it. So, if you are headed up to the British Invasion this weekend, many of your favorite driving routes up here may not be open, or if they are - will be restricted. Our iconic Route 100 is one example. Check out the state's Agency of Transportation web site at www.511vt.com for the most up-to-date information. Weekend weather looks very favorable for the show - sunny, sunny with temps in the 60s. For a variety of reasons though, there's worries that attendance will be down this year, so I hope to see as many of you here as possible. Drive safe, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF 18928 5-speed From lfm614 at aol.com Wed Sep 14 07:43:20 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 13:43:20 +0000 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited Message-ID: <789704310-1316007788-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-858751400-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> Ya, that's been documented on 6-PACK with pictures. Apparently nothing to keep the pin in on that re-pop, believe its an italian pump. Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: Jim Berg Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited Sent: Sep 14, 2011 7:28 AM List, I proceeded to remove the fuel pump after work last night. Used a hemostat to crimp the fuel line below the filter. (Received many tips on that by the way) Removed the fuel line to carb, bone dry. Removed the line from the tank, fuel present. I took off the pump and found that the arm that fits in the block and rides on the cam was not attached to the pump! The pin that holds the arm in the pump and spring had somehow worked their way loose. Anyway, refit the pin and other needed parts, refit the pump and she runs like a top again. I never would have guessed that one. ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From trsix74 at comcast.net Wed Sep 14 08:45:24 2011 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 14:45:24 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited In-Reply-To: <7309D877DB1A32478B8E5FB446DD2C3501E1D6@HDQ1112.bepc.net> Message-ID: <118656189.649760.1316011524653.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> "The pin that holds the arm in the pump and spring had somehow worked their way loose. Anyway, refit the pin and other needed parts, refit the pump and she runs like a top again. B I never would have guessed that one." Make sure the clips are on both ends of the pivot dowel. Can't understand how that came loose unless someone had fooled around with it. Wasn't this a new pump you had installed? From mbarre at juno.com Wed Sep 14 09:48:30 2011 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 15:48:30 GMT Subject: [6pack] Weber DGV experts near Atlanta Message-ID: <20110914.114830.12471.0@webmail51.vgs.untd.com> Since there is already a good DGV discussion on the TR8 list, thought I would ask a question. I have DGVs on my dormant TR6 and as I prepare to resurrect it, is there anyone in the NW Georgia or eastern Alabama area that has displayed expertise in setting up the DGVs? Per Bob Lang, preferrably someone with a dyno... Thanks, Matt in Columbus From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 14 11:02:46 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 12:02:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Weber DGV experts near Atlanta In-Reply-To: <20110914.114830.12471.0@webmail51.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110914.114830.12471.0@webmail51.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <1D30506539BC41BD88E1AE2B51998B40@ranteer.local> ben pender klassic autos 121 Castle Drive Madison, Al 35758-3500 256-489-9560 guy is a wizard; works on anything foreign and old. he's really good; worked on a couple of my cars. tends to start late and work late. we dropped a car off around midnight and he was just getting ready to close up -------------------------------------------------- From: "Matt" Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 10:48 AM To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Weber DGV experts near Atlanta > Since there is already a good DGV discussion on the TR8 list, thought I > would > ask a question. > I have DGVs on my dormant TR6 and as I prepare to resurrect it, is there > anyone in the NW Georgia or eastern Alabama area that has displayed > expertise > in setting up the DGVs? Per Bob Lang, preferrably someone with a dyno... > > Thanks, > Matt in Columbus > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/sumton at sbcglobal.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Sep 14 12:23:28 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 18:23:28 GMT Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited Message-ID: Jim---If this is like the aftermarket pump I saw many years ago, the lever pin/pump body needs to be staked on both ends. Otherwise the pin will work its way back out again. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Jim Berg Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 5:28 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited List, I proceeded to remove the fuel pump after work last night. Used a hemostat to crimp the fuel line below the filter. (Received many tips on that by the way) Removed the fuel line to carb, bone dry. Removed the line from the tank, fuel present. I took off the pump and found that the arm that fits in the block and rides on the cam was not attached to the pump! The pin that holds the arm in the pump and spring had somehow worked their way loose. Anyway, refit the pin and other needed parts, refit the pump and she runs like a top again. I never would have guessed that one. ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From Vsnively at aol.com Wed Sep 14 14:24:41 2011 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 16:24:41 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited Message-ID: That exact thing happened to me. In a message dated 9/14/2011 4:03:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, tr6taylor at webtv.net writes: Jim---If this is like the aftermarket pump I saw many years ago, the lever pin/pump body needs to be staked on both ends. Otherwise the pin will work its way back out again. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Jim Berg Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 5:28 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited List, I proceeded to remove the fuel pump after work last night. Used a hemostat to crimp the fuel line below the filter. (Received many tips on that by the way) Removed the fuel line to carb, bone dry. Removed the line from the tank, fuel present. I took off the pump and found that the arm that fits in the block and rides on the cam was not attached to the pump! The pin that holds the arm in the pump and spring had somehow worked their way loose. Anyway, refit the pin and other needed parts, refit the pump and she runs like a top again. I never would have guessed that one. ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Sep 14 19:55:11 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 14 Sep 2011 19:55:11 -0600 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ditto. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 14, 2011, at 2:24 PM, Vsnively at aol.com wrote: > That exact thing happened to me. > > > In a message dated 9/14/2011 4:03:55 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, > tr6taylor at webtv.net writes: > > Jim---If this is like the aftermarket pump I saw many years ago, > the lever > pin/pump body needs to be staked on both ends. Otherwise the pin > will work > its way back out again. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jim Berg > Sent: Wednesday, September 14, 2011 5:28 AM > To: '6pack at autox.team.net' > Subject: [6pack] fuel pump-revisited > > List, I proceeded to remove the fuel pump after work last night. > Used a > hemostat to crimp the fuel line below the filter. (Received many > tips on > that > by the way) Removed the fuel line to carb, bone dry. Removed the > line > from > the tank, fuel present. I took off the pump and found that the arm > that > fits > in the block and rides on the cam was not attached to the pump! > The pin > that > holds the arm in the pump and spring had somehow worked their way > loose. > Anyway, refit the pin and other needed parts, refit the pump and > she runs > like > a top again. I never would have guessed that one. > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Sep 15 10:59:24 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 15 Sep 2011 16:59:24 GMT Subject: [6pack] Triumphest 2011 Message-ID: Hope to see some of you at Big Bear Lake this weekend! Dick Taylor '73 very red From dhounsell at msn.com Sat Sep 17 13:43:32 2011 From: dhounsell at msn.com (=?Windows-1252?B?V2luZG93cyBMaXZlmSBUZWFt?=) Date: Sat, 17 Sep 2011 15:43:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rough running when warmed up Message-ID: Thanks all for your input. New coil and rotor ran better but not right. Installed new crane ignition module, ran better but not right New TRF rotor, runs like a top. Now have a smooth running TR for the balance of the NH driving season Doug Hounsell 71 TR6 From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Sep 18 05:10:02 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 07:10:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR250 wiring advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <34E358AAE519401EBBD066BF98E0669F@DCH6RFC1> If any of you wonderful people would be prepared to spend a few minutes on your backs with your legs over the driver's seat, I need advice on how your cars are wired when it comes to the steering column. I don't want to bomb the list with the details of which wires go where, but if you can help, please hit reply and I'll give you the specifics. I'll supply the advil for the sore backs the following days..... Andrew Uprichard From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sun Sep 18 16:36:44 2011 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 18:36:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] New-technology wiring harness Message-ID: <4ACED1CF-1469-4376-9EEA-516918376105@nc.rr.com> Anybody had much experience with this general wiring-harness upgrade? http://www.advanceautowire.com/ I don't have a cooling fan or elect. fuel pump, so I'm thinkin' of just upgrading the headlamp circuits. Anybody done a relay injection in the wiper circuit or running lights? Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 (pimento, if that helps) From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sun Sep 18 16:45:46 2011 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 18:45:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal Message-ID: <9EDCEFB4-EE49-42F2-85EB-63F6116E559E@nc.rr.com> I'm probably the only one who's ever had a leaky rear seal. Loses a quart about every 700-900 mi. I know I can live with it; but it's the only place that still leaks, so it's the long-pole in the tent, now. Is there a trick to fixing that puppy (other than a straight R&R done right, after which it should only leak a quart per oil-change interval)? Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 From mjmullin at juno.com Sun Sep 18 18:45:04 2011 From: mjmullin at juno.com (mjmullin at juno.com) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 00:45:04 GMT Subject: [6pack] Ignition toubles Message-ID: <20110918.204504.22975.0@webmail54.vgs.untd.com> Listers: Three days 'till the Trials in Galena, and I need some ideas regarding an ignition problem I can't figure out. I've got electronic ignition plus an MSD unit, but I'm wondering if it's the coil or alternator. The engine dies when I touch the brake pedal or put the car in reverse, so I'm thinking that the electric load to the lights does something. Car won't start (feels like no spark at all) after that, and has to cool 15 minutes plus. In the past, the car runs with ignition off untill I touch the brakes. Has to do with "electric leaks" and no diode for the MSD unit, I'm told. The coil gets hot; I can only touch it for two seconds max. I tried switching to points, but soon realized the insulated side of the points were grounded thru the coil to the wire coming from the alternator. The wire from the alternator to the + side of the coil shouldn't be continuous to ground, right? Car ran fine tonight, and I can't duplicate the problem...ugh! Ideas? Thanks in advance, Matt Mullin ____________________________________________________________ 57-Year-Old Mom Looks 25 Mom Reveals $5 Wrinkle Trick That Has Angered Doctors! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4e7690cd1d472352311st04vuc From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Sep 18 23:58:13 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 05:58:13 GMT Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal Message-ID: Doug---To get to this seal requires the tranny to come out. Not especially difficult to replace the seal, but count on a couple of days, start to startup. If you have other work to do in this area, like maybe a new clutch or flywheel resurfacing, that would be a good time to get 'ur dun! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Douglas Morris Sent: Sunday, September 18, 2011 3:45 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal I'm probably the only one who's ever had a leaky rear seal. Loses a quart about every 700-900 mi. I know I can live with it; but it's the only place that still leaks, so it's the long-pole in the tent, now. Is there a trick to fixing that puppy (other than a straight R&R done right, after which it should only leak a quart per oil-change interval)? Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From djfidler at rogers.com Mon Sep 19 05:01:56 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 07:01:56 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal In-Reply-To: <9EDCEFB4-EE49-42F2-85EB-63F6116E559E@nc.rr.com> References: <9EDCEFB4-EE49-42F2-85EB-63F6116E559E@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: <74AA6409-98E9-465A-BF32-7566BBB1F1B5@rogers.com> Doug, While it's almost certainly the rear seal that's gone, it could also be a missing copper washer under the top most screw. Although I don't think you'd lose quite so much oil if it was just that. Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Sep 18, 2011, at 6:45 PM, Douglas Morris wrote: > I'm probably the only one who's ever had a leaky rear seal. > Loses a quart about every 700-900 mi. > I know I can live with it; but it's the only place that still leaks, so it's > the long-pole in the tent, now. > > Is there a trick to fixing that puppy (other than a straight R&R done right, > after which it should only leak a quart per oil-change interval)? > > Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Sep 19 06:12:34 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 12:12:34 +0000 Subject: [6pack] LBC Event in NC mountains Message-ID: Anyone on-list planning on attending 'Autumn in the Mountains' in Hendersonville NC, Sat Sept 24th? I should be there if the forecast stays dry. White 69-TR6. Sloane :) From rgrandy at tds.net Mon Sep 19 20:49:40 2011 From: rgrandy at tds.net (Randall Niffenegger) Date: Mon, 19 Sep 2011 21:49:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Wiring Harness Message-ID: <1B35B3D6DB2C405E977A677A9BE4918A@puter> Evening Doug, I did the whole wiring harness upgrade to my '74 TR-6. It was well worth the time and effort in my opinion. I added an additional relay to mine for fog lights. I put in an electric fan and the efi will use an electric fuel pump when that gets put in (this winter I hope). I found that everything electrical works better on the car after the upgrade. Check out Bob Danielsons website, he did the upgrade to his LBC and that is what inspired me to change mine. Randy Niffenegger, WI, '74 TR-6 (white w/ some rust spots!) From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Sep 20 10:00:52 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 12:00:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal In-Reply-To: <9EDCEFB4-EE49-42F2-85EB-63F6116E559E@nc.rr.com> References: <9EDCEFB4-EE49-42F2-85EB-63F6116E559E@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: Hi, You're not the only one that's ever had a leaky real seal. Trust me on that. In addition to the comments that I've seen so far (copper washer on the real seal casting), you should also check to make sure that the crank doesn't have a groove in it where the seal rides. You should also make sure that you don't have a lot of cylinder leak-down, as this will cause oil leaks in the wierdest places. Also note that it is possible to have the rear seal mis-aligned which can be the source of leaks. Last, make sure the problem is really the rear seal. I know this sounds obvious, but a lot of times you get leaks from the spin-on filter adapters and the back of the valve cover and the oil drips down the back of the engine and it looks like the rear seal is the source. You can use a UV dye to figure out where the leak source is. Old cars - lots o fuN! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Sep 20 13:17:06 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 19:17:06 GMT Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal Message-ID: In addition to Bob's good points, one can add the rear plug at the cam bore in the block as an oil leak source. I once had to remove the cam and knock out this plug with a broom handle, and reseal the plug! Dick From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Sep 20 14:53:40 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 20 Sep 2011 20:53:40 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: Engine rear seal Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Tuesday, September 20, 2011 12:17 PM To: Robert M.Lang, Douglas Morris Cc: 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine rear seal In addition to Bob's good points, one can add the rear plug at the cam bore in the block as an oil leak source. I once had to remove the cam and knock out this plug with a broom handle, and reseal the plug! Dick From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Sep 22 13:56:40 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 22 Sep 2011 15:56:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] wiring question References: Message-ID: <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> I have finally worked out that my TR250 has a TR6 light switch arm on the steering column. The 250 wiring called for 2 solid blue wires to connect to a single blue in the wiring harness, but the TR6 has a single solid blue and a blue/white (which in the TR6 feeds the high beam lamp in the speedometer. I am guessing I make do with the single blue and ignore the blue /white, but if anyone has experience with this, I'd appreciate the input. Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Sep 23 06:46:00 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 23 Sep 2011 12:46:00 +0000 Subject: [6pack] wiring question In-Reply-To: <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> References: , <2F6897BB301B4957B3D9C38C1930BF9F@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: Hi Andrew, I'm comparing the schematic's for your 68 & my 69. It's an interesting difference. It looks like on the 69 the blue/white from the switch sends 12v to the high-beams & indicator when you pull back on the switch (flash the high beams) bypassing the dimmer switch on the floor, so it doesn't matter if the dimmer is on high or low, the high's flash. It looks to me like the 250's light switch isn't suppose to be able to flash the high beams, thus only has twin solid blue wires. But if you have a TR6 switch, and have a blue/white with no where to connect, if you ran it to the blue/white on the dimmer switch, you'd have the flash-high circuit connected. By the way, on the 69 the lights will not work with the key off, except the flash-the-highs which does work with the key off. When I put the new wiring harness on mine, the flash-the-highs really surprised me, as it had never worked before and I didn't know it could. Hope that helps, Sloane :) 69-Six > > I have finally worked out that my TR250 has a TR6 light switch arm on the > steering column. The 250 wiring called for 2 solid blue wires to connect to > a single blue in the wiring harness, but the TR6 has a single solid blue and > a blue/white (which in the TR6 feeds the high beam lamp in the speedometer. > > I am guessing I make do with the single blue and ignore the blue /white, but > if anyone has experience with this, I'd appreciate the input. Thanks in > advance. > > Andrew Uprichard From cris_tr6 at hotmail.com Mon Sep 26 09:14:24 2011 From: cris_tr6 at hotmail.com (Cris Hemingway) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 08:14:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal In-Reply-To: <9EDCEFB4-EE49-42F2-85EB-63F6116E559E@nc.rr.com> References: <9EDCEFB4-EE49-42F2-85EB-63F6116E559E@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: Add one more possibility to the list - On my car, at startup after a complete engine rebuild I would get oil weeping from the hole in the bottom of the bell housing. Investigation revealed that the plug at the back end of the oil galley had not been properly installed by the guys who hot tanked and honed the block for me. It was literally the only part on that engine that I didn't either check or install myself. It was like your leak, just enough to be annoying but not critical to fix. When I finally got tired of it, it took about 2 hours to drop the tranny, clutch flywheel and backing plate, 5 minutes t remove the plug, clean up the threads, put some thread sealant on it and re-install. Another 2 hours had things back together, no more drips on the driveway!Lesson Learned. Cris Hemingway > From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com > Date: Sun, 18 Sep 2011 18:45:46 -0400 > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Engine rear seal > > I'm probably the only one who's ever had a leaky rear seal. > Loses a quart about every 700-900 mi. > I know I can live with it; but it's the only place that still leaks, so it's > the long-pole in the tent, now. > > Is there a trick to fixing that puppy (other than a straight R&R done right, > after which it should only leak a quart per oil-change interval)? > > Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cris_tr6 at hotmail.com From bobs71tr6 at aol.com Mon Sep 26 13:58:15 2011 From: bobs71tr6 at aol.com (bobs71tr6 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 15:58:15 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan Message-ID: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> I'm thinking of installing an Electric Fan on my 71 TR6. Has anybody gone through the installation process and are there any tips you can provide? also, does anybody know the model number from the Hayden fan? thanks for your reply Robert 1971 Triumph TR6 From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Mon Sep 26 15:28:22 2011 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2011 21:28:22 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Compression Test Message-ID: Hi Everyone, I did a compression test on my TR6 today and then found that i couldn't find reference compression data. i did the test dry and wet and got the following results: #1 95 dry, 105 wet #2 94 dry 105 wet #3 89 dry 90 wet #4 87 dry 98 wet #5 100 dry 120 wet #6 110 dry 120 wet What should the normal compression pressure be? It looks to me that re doing the valves may get a lot more power. Rings? To tell the truth, the car is running great and seems to pull pretty well...Thanks,Bob Rochlin'72 TR 6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Sep 26 23:27:59 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 05:27:59 GMT Subject: [6pack] Compression Test Message-ID: Bob---Generally speaking, if the cylinder pressures are fairly even as yours, you leave it alone. They are a little on the low side, tho, so a lot could depend here on other factors. I would suspect that a fresh, stock '72 engine would pull closer to 150 lb. per cylinder. You could do a leak down test to see where the pressures are escaping, which could tell you whether a simple valve job would bring them up, or a re-ring/ rebore is in order. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Bob Rochlin Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:28 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Compression Test Hi Everyone, I did a compression test on my TR6 today and then found that i couldn't find reference compression data. i did the test dry and wet and got the following results: #1 95 dry, 105 wet #2 94 dry 105 wet #3 89 dry 90 wet #4 87 dry 98 wet #5 100 dry 120 wet #6 110 dry 120 wet What should the normal compression pressure be? It looks to me that re doing the valves may get a lot more power. Rings? To tell the truth, the car is running great and seems to pull pretty well...Thanks,Bob Rochlin'72 TR 6 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From brian at asmoothmove.biz Tue Sep 27 06:31:33 2011 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 07:31:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan In-Reply-To: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <003101cc7d11$64c91ec0$2e5b5c40$@biz> Yes, my 72 TR6 has a Hayden fan and I think it's the way to go. It's been on the car since it was rebuilt back in 04. I have it wired so that it only runs when the ignition is on and run the power through an unused fuse station in the fuse block. I bent up a couple of sheet metal brackets to mount the fan onto the radiator without butchering anything. Lastly, a second crank extension that I had machined down to a very thick washer. If you would like photos please contact me off-line. Brian J. Alwin CC 79085 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bobs71tr6 at aol.com Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:58 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan I'm thinking of installing an Electric Fan on my 71 TR6. Has anybody gone through the installation process and are there any tips you can provide? also, does anybody know the model number from the Hayden fan? thanks for your reply Robert 1971 Triumph TR6 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/brian at asmoothmove.biz From sakirsis at consolidated.net Tue Sep 27 07:18:48 2011 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 09:18:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan In-Reply-To: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20110927091848.BJE45358@ms01.consolidated.net> I just installed an electric fan on my '70 Damson and could not be happier. I used a Spal 16" puller slim line which fits perfectly over my recored radiator. I removed the crank fan and replaced with Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit. The radiator shop inserted the bung (3/8" pipe thread) into the radiator during the rebuild. A friend of mine did the electrical connections and the whole system looks fantastic. I just went thru a very hot summer in Texas and let me tell you, this is the only way to go in this type of heat. Very slick system. Steve Kirsis, "70 Damson and '75 Pimento, both beautiful daily drivers. From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Sep 27 07:26:22 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 13:26:22 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan Message-ID: <1133237178-1317129946-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-331382113-@b5.c20.bise6.blackberry> You ought to do yourself a favor and go on the 6-PACK website and search on fan. Lots of info and pics on many different kinds of fans, sources and what to look for. Too much to peck here. Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: brian at asmoothmove.biz Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: bobs71tr6 at aol.com Cc: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan Sent: Sep 27, 2011 7:31 AM Yes, my 72 TR6 has a Hayden fan and I think it's the way to go. It's been on the car since it was rebuilt back in 04. I have it wired so that it only runs when the ignition is on and run the power through an unused fuse station in the fuse block. I bent up a couple of sheet metal brackets to mount the fan onto the radiator without butchering anything. Lastly, a second crank extension that I had machined down to a very thick washer. If you would like photos please contact me off-line. Brian J. Alwin CC 79085 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of bobs71tr6 at aol.com Sent: Monday, September 26, 2011 2:58 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan I'm thinking of installing an Electric Fan on my 71 TR6. Has anybody gone through the installation process and are there any tips you can provide? also, does anybody know the model number from the Hayden fan? thanks for your reply Robert 1971 Triumph TR6 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/brian at asmoothmove.biz ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From j.honor at comcast.net Tue Sep 27 10:25:07 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 11:25:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan In-Reply-To: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <2ED38760-77F5-4BA8-BD31-95AB18215226@comcast.net> I had used the Hayden installed as a pusher & all worked well with easy install on a always on fuse Thermostat regulated via in the radiator fins quite well/ I now went with a Wizard aluminum with puller traditional set up Spal 16 fan and Patton fan eliminator is a superior set up but both do the trick & better than stock Regards Joe Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone On Sep 26, 2011, at 2:58 PM, bobs71tr6 at aol.com wrote: > I'm thinking of installing an Electric Fan on my 71 TR6. Has anybody gone > through the installation process and are there any tips you can provide? > > also, does anybody know the model number from the Hayden fan? > > thanks for your reply > > Robert > 1971 Triumph TR6 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net From sakirsis at consolidated.net Tue Sep 27 10:42:06 2011 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen) Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2011 12:42:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Triumph TR6 - Hayden Electric Fan In-Reply-To: <8CE4B43206B208C-1E78-ECC20@Webmail-m109.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE4A9DC37C2B3D-19B8-FB9A8@webmail-m153.sysops.aol.com> <20110927091848.BJE45358@ms01.consolidated.net> <8CE4B43206B208C-1E78-ECC20@Webmail-m109.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20110927124206.BJF15971@ms01.consolidated.net> Bob, I bought the Kit from Rick himself at Patton Machined Products, 5 Jeff St. Brunswick, Me. 04011. Also www.pattonmachine.com. Quality product. Steve Kirsis. From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Wed Sep 28 15:19:15 2011 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Wed, 28 Sep 2011 21:19:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Compression Test Message-ID: Hi All,Today I did a vacuum check that confirmed that the engine was running very well, abet, with a little to low compression. As suggested by Jay Welch and Dick Taylor I'm going to set up a leak down test next to see if it is, indeed, worth doing a valve job (easy) as opposed to a engine rebuild (hard and expensive). Thanks for the replies and all the helpful information. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Thu Sep 29 10:08:12 2011 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Thu, 29 Sep 2011 16:08:12 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Compression Test Message-ID: Hi Ed, I adjusted the valves about 400 miles ago. I did assume that if the valves were misadjusted the vacuum gage would have a wandering needle reading. The needle read a steady 20hg. The manual reference was between 15 and 22. I don't think that the valves could have gone out of adjustment in 400 miles on a well worn in engine, but I will check their adjustment them before I go on the leak down test. Take care. Bob From colinthom at shaw.ca Fri Sep 30 15:48:10 2011 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Fri, 30 Sep 2011 14:48:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] problems shifting when hot Message-ID: <001201cc7fba$a5dc3ae0$f194b0a0$@ca> Hi Gang, A few months ago I threw up a post about my car shifting poorly when hot. After rebuilding the M+S cylinders, changing from DOT 5 to DOT 4, rebuilding the cyls again and then replacing them, I gave up and took it to the local shop. My garage is too skinny to take out a tranny in and if the shop wanted do it, then they could live with it if they were wrong. As I was recounting my lengthy tale of woe to the service mgr, a tech overheard us talking and chimed in with "sounds like the clutch cover plate". They had another car in the shop with the same problem, and that was the culprit. Apparently there was a run of Luc clutches with this problem a few years back but my clutch, with 14000 miles on it, predated that era. That was the theory..but not the reality. My clutch cover plate was indeed hooped. The diaphragm springs were blue from overheating, which they apparently shouldn't be if all is well. When these things fail, they get stiffer as they heat up. And, they don't move the pressure plate as far as it needs to go. This give the impression of a hydraulic problem, when in fact it's a crappy clutch/metallurgy problem. Who knew? A new clutch has made the car shift like a charm..and a whole lot easier, too. I guess the clutch had been getting gradually stiffer over the life of this emerging problem and I didn't notice it until it got too bad to drive. Thanks to Dick Taylor for guidance and emotional support along the way! Colin 75