From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Oct 1 15:13:12 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 1 Oct 2011 17:13:12 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Switch rebuilding Message-ID: <28554AEB82E54AB9BA81E7420C8A1109@DCH6RFC1> Like many 250 / early 6 owners, I am left with pieces of an original hazard switch (2 switches, actually). Does anyone know of a business which will rebuild the switch for me? I don't want to pay $180 for a replacement. Andrew Uprichard From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Oct 1 20:55:03 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 02 Oct 2011 02:55:03 GMT Subject: [6pack] Switch rebuilding Message-ID: Andrew---If you have a copy of Dan Master's Electrical Repair Manual, he shows how to have a working hazard switch for the early 6's. It involves rewiring it into a toggle switch. Doesn't look like it would be too difficult, even for this Red/Black me! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Sent: Saturday, October 1, 2011 2:13 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Switch rebuilding Like many 250 / early 6 owners, I am left with pieces of an original hazard switch (2 switches, actually). Does anyone know of a business which will rebuild the switch for me? I don't want to pay $180 for a replacement. Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From janah at att.net Sun Oct 2 15:01:59 2011 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Sun, 2 Oct 2011 17:01:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Switch rebuilding Message-ID: <9803D7DDCDCD4DACB326791C430B7C61@p4home> Hi Andrew- Couple years ago, Jim Herter (aka Rat Ridge Roadster on the 6-Pack site forum) wrote a full blown article for the 6-Pack club magazine on how to rebuild the original switches. John Cyg 70 Damson CC52927LO From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Oct 3 06:42:55 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 12:42:55 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Switch rebuilding In-Reply-To: <9803D7DDCDCD4DACB326791C430B7C61@p4home> References: <9803D7DDCDCD4DACB326791C430B7C61@p4home> Message-ID: The one thing my DPO did well was to make a new hazard switch by glueing the switch button (visable part) to the front of a double-pole/single throw switch that I believe he said he got at K-mart. I've never had a problem with it, 25 years later. Sloane :) 69-Six From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Oct 3 10:51:39 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 09:51:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Moss replica fuel pump vs. original AC - what I found Message-ID: <1317660699.22814.YahooMailNeo@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The Moss pump failed in service The rubber valve seals don't fit right. too skinny. I found one when I took the pump top cover off. The AC seals fit right. The tang one the end of the diaphragm shaft is not the same as the one on the original pump. Maybe my tang was broken, but, it wouldn't engage properly with the pin. The Moss shaft has a decent looking oil seal on it. No oil seal on original shaft. I rebuilt my AC pump with the TRF kit. It proved reliable on a drive yesterday. TRF provides oil seals for their diaphragm shaft, but not the oil seal retainer cup shown in the kit picture. Dave H. said they can't get them. If I could get the Moss rubber diaphragm onto the original AC pump shaft, I could use it in the Moss pump and likely make it reliable. An original rebuild kit would also likely do the trick. I don't think they sell individual pump parts. Cheers, Bruce Simms From davedenson at cox.net Mon Oct 3 15:57:02 2011 From: davedenson at cox.net (davedenson at cox.net) Date: Mon, 3 Oct 2011 17:57:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6 Message-ID: <20111003175702.IJ2PE.1987507.imail@eastrmwml40> .I promise you will be on the top of pleasure! http://www.muzzana.com.ar/com.friend.php?novID=23pa5 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 4 09:44:06 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 10:44:06 -0500 Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question Message-ID: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> first - I just noticed that apparently the car once had a rubber cover for the floor mounted dip switch (72 TR6)? its listed in moss 20 542-135 $29.95 RUBBER CAP, dip switch, which is more than the dip switch!!!! I wonder if the new dip switch includes a cap anyone found a less expensive replacement? and - after trying to match wire colors unsuccessfully from my diagram, could someone tell me what these two items are? http://www.ranteer.com/misc_2/ I think one is the voltage regulator and the other a relay? which is which? and relay for what? thanks! From DJFidler at rogers.com Tue Oct 4 12:28:37 2011 From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 14:28:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question In-Reply-To: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> References: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <002501cc82c3$6fc273f0$4f475bd0$@com> They are (top one) the overdrive relay (A-Type OD) and (lower one) the starter relay. That rubber cap is a rare item, not many people bother replacing it when it gets lost/worn, for obvious reasons! ;-) Fid. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 11:44 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question first - I just noticed that apparently the car once had a rubber cover for the floor mounted dip switch (72 TR6)? its listed in moss 20 542-135 $29.95 RUBBER CAP, dip switch, which is more than the dip switch!!!! I wonder if the new dip switch includes a cap anyone found a less expensive replacement? and - after trying to match wire colors unsuccessfully from my diagram, could someone tell me what these two items are? http://www.ranteer.com/misc_2/ I think one is the voltage regulator and the other a relay? which is which? and relay for what? thanks! ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Oct 4 13:49:54 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 19:49:54 +0000 Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question In-Reply-To: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> References: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> Message-ID: Oliver, dip switch: My 69 has never had a rubber cap. I was in need of a new switch and was lucky to find a guy on ebay that had one, origial Lucas, no rubber cap. If you don't need a switch, I wouldn't bother. wires: I'm looking at the schematic's with you. Do you have the color ones? The voltage regulator is on the back of the speedo. The bottom relay appears to be the horn relay. Solid purple, purple with yellow stripe, purple with black stripe. The top relay has me puzzled. The 72 apparently has no hazard relay as does the 70-71. They look to have a different switch and thus don't need a relay. I can't quite make out all the wire colors on it. Obviously there's the DPO red wire but that's no help. Is that yellow/green, yellow/purple, solid brown? Or are these yellow or really white? With 5 connections, that sure looks like it could be a 70-71 hazard relay, but the colors are not right at all. Do any of these wires/colors go to the fuse box? Sloane :) 69-Six > > first - I just noticed that apparently the car once had a rubber cover for the > floor mounted dip switch (72 TR6)? > > its listed in moss 20 542-135 $29.95 RUBBER CAP, dip switch, which is more > than the dip switch!!!! I wonder if the new dip switch includes a cap > > anyone found a less expensive replacement? > > and - after trying to match wire colors unsuccessfully from my diagram, could > someone tell me what these two items are? > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc_2/ > > I think one is the voltage regulator and the other a relay? which is which? > and relay for what? > > thanks! From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Tue Oct 4 15:19:33 2011 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 14:19:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question In-Reply-To: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> References: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <1317763173.76148.YahooMailNeo@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Oliver The bottom one appears from the wire colors to be a horn relay while the top one could be an overdrive relay / switch. Dale From: oliver To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2011 11:44 AM Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question first - I just noticed that apparently the car once had a rubber cover for the floor mounted dip switch (72 TR6)? its listed in moss 20 542-135 $29.95 RUBBER CAP, dip switch, which is more than the dip switch!!!! I wonder if the new dip switch includes a cap anyone found a less expensive replacement? and - after trying to match wire colors unsuccessfully from my diagram, could someone tell me what these two items are? http://www.ranteer.com/misc_2/ I think one is the voltage regulator and the other a relay? which is which? and relay for what? thanks! ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 4 20:30:35 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 21:30:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question In-Reply-To: <1317763173.76148.YahooMailNeo@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> <1317763173.76148.YahooMailNeo@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: the bottom one is indeed horn. checked the colors against the diagram. they are more vivid in person. the top one is overdrive; that extra red wire is a dash warning light my mechanic put on. when I remove that little connector neither the warning light nor od works. From: Dale Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 4:19 PM To: oliver ; Triumph 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question Oliver The bottom one appears from the wire colors to be a horn relay while the top one could be an overdrive relay / switch. Dale From: oliver To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2011 11:44 AM Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question first - I just noticed that apparently the car once had a rubber cover for the floor mounted dip switch (72 TR6)? its listed in moss 20 542-135 $29.95 RUBBER CAP, dip switch, which is more than the dip switch!!!! I wonder if the new dip switch includes a cap anyone found a less expensive replacement? and - after trying to match wire colors unsuccessfully from my diagram, could someone tell me what these two items are? http://www.ranteer.com/misc_2/ I think one is the voltage regulator and the other a relay? which is which? and relay for what? thanks! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 4 21:00:18 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 22:00:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] where is it? In-Reply-To: References: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <6FBC542F85034CA486F8ECE72A58C32B@ranteer.local> on a 72 tr6 where is the voltage regulator located? from ebay - this is what it looks like? http://tinyurl.com/3ezbpww (Note: the voltage stabilizer is on the speedo) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 4 21:04:32 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 4 Oct 2011 22:04:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] tr6 voltage regulator In-Reply-To: References: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <9AD2D56256DA458CB612AD7A4C46A8BC@ranteer.local> or is it built into the alternator???? From djfidler at rogers.com Wed Oct 5 06:58:04 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 08:58:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question In-Reply-To: References: <6D9463778CCD4B1D81FB4DB80D84D5DD@ranteer.local> <1317763173.76148.YahooMailNeo@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sorry Dave, I didn't mean to mislead you. I should've checked my Dan Masters book, instead of relying on my memory! Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 4, 2011, at 10:30 PM, "oliver" wrote: > the bottom one is indeed horn. checked the colors against the diagram. they > are more vivid in person. > > the top one is overdrive; that extra red wire is a dash warning light my > mechanic put on. when I remove that little connector neither the warning > light nor od works. > > > From: Dale > Sent: Tuesday, October 04, 2011 4:19 PM > To: oliver ; Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: Re: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question > > > Oliver > > The bottom one appears from the wire colors to be a horn relay while the top > one could be an overdrive relay / switch. > > Dale > > > From: oliver > To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tuesday, October 4, 2011 11:44 AM > Subject: [6pack] dip switch and electrical question > > first - I just noticed that apparently the car once had a rubber cover for > the > floor mounted dip switch (72 TR6)? > > its listed in moss 20 542-135 $29.95 RUBBER CAP, dip switch, which is more > than the dip switch!!!! I wonder if the new dip switch includes a cap > > anyone found a less expensive replacement? > > and - after trying to match wire colors unsuccessfully from my diagram, could > someone tell me what these two items are? > > http://www.ranteer.com/misc_2/ > > I think one is the voltage regulator and the other a relay? which is which? > and relay for what? > > thanks! > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From Jltr6 at aol.com Wed Oct 5 16:32:08 2011 From: Jltr6 at aol.com (Jltr6 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 18:32:08 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <7ed0a.126273d7.3bbe34e8@aol.com> I would like to build a mobile frame to move the body around on. Ideally I would be able to store the body & mobile frame over the chassis and drive train. Can someone please measure the height from the ground to the top of their engine so I can determine how much clearance I will need? Thanks for your help. Jim Lynch 1973 TR6 From wmp at charter.net Fri Oct 7 08:28:23 2011 From: wmp at charter.net (Bill Palmer) Date: Fri, 7 Oct 2011 10:28:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 99 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim, You will need to measure your frame and engine height as it now sits in your garage. Next you will have to put in a fudge factor for an increase in this height because springs on the frame will raise after the weight of the body is taken away. A height would be different for each car being worked. Bill Palmer 73 TR6 (almost restored) On Oct 6, 2011, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote: > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. (no subject) (Jltr6 at aol.com) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 5 Oct 2011 18:32:08 -0400 (EDT) > From: Jltr6 at aol.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] (no subject) > Message-ID: <7ed0a.126273d7.3bbe34e8 at aol.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > I would like to build a mobile frame to move the body around on. > Ideally > I would be able to store the body & mobile frame over the chassis > and drive > train. Can someone please measure the height from the ground to > the top > of their engine so I can determine how much clearance I will need? > Thanks > for your help. > > Jim Lynch > 1973 TR6 > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 99 > ************************************ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 9 13:56:35 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 14:56:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starter issues? Message-ID: <7B9D6950442F4E5098FF89EF24BEC4CA@ranteer.local> On Saturday afternoon we thought we heard some kind of metal on metal noise, but it seemed to be coming from a different vehicle. Started the car Sunday morning and didn't hear it; just moved the car about 50 yards and turned it off. Started the car later that morning and heard it. Opened the hood and it seemed to be coming from the valves. Since the valves were just adjusted a week or so ago, thought that might be it. Thought we could make it home. Ran the car for a few minutes, then turned it off. Started it again about 15 minutes later, still heard the noise, and drove off. After about 20 minutes we smelled something akin to cigarette smoke, not burning wires. Realized it was us, and pulled off on the next exit. Turned the car off, and looked for issues. Nothing seemed obvious; the alternator seemed ok and the belt was tight. Tried to start the car but it just made a noise, which I think is the sound of the starter motor spinning without engaging the flywheel. We push started the car, and then drove out. The amp gauge pinned left, so far that we couldn't see the needle. Figured we had electrical issues, and drove without lights, wipers, overdrive, etc. In about 20 minutes the amp needle reappeared and gradually over about an hour's time made it back to just left of center, which is typical. We made it home - about a three hour drive and put the car in the garage. I'm thinking that there was a starter related short? That we lost the solenoid? Possibly water related - it rained constantly from yesterday afternoon, when we were out, all night, and all the way home. I'm guessing that the cigarette smell was burned bearings or something like that? The metal chatter I mistook for valves (which, btw, disappeared after the smoke incident) was the starter fighting with the flywheel? Most likely I've got a bad solenoid? BTW the starter is one of those high torque starters, which although came from a very reputable source, has been the source of a lot of problems and issues for me, including not having the right thickness spacer. So it has been in and out several times, and during its hiatus I had a regular starter in. I couldn't tell the difference! From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sun Oct 9 17:08:20 2011 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sun, 9 Oct 2011 16:08:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR-3 Diff Message-ID: One of our club members heard some growling from the rear of the car and pulled off the diff cover to find half the ring gear teeth worn down to nothing or --worse yet--laying in the bottom of the case. Does anyone out there have a good used or new ring and pinion set for sale--or better yet, a complete used differential for sale? This would be for a '59 TR-3--not TR-6 Maybe from a TR-4--pre-IRS, I guess. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 10 16:50:37 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 17:50:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] anyone recognize this sound? Message-ID: more starter motor - this time I recorded it and put it on youtube. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GdHfyujCMck this is the sound of turning the key; the motor is not turning over. sorry it was dark in the garage and it was the sound I was after From TRsick at aol.com Mon Oct 10 16:59:13 2011 From: TRsick at aol.com (TRsick at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 18:59:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Wishbone classics seatbelts? Message-ID: <3168b.3088baec.3bc4d2c1@aol.com> Anyone have any comments on the Wishbone Classics 3 point seat belt replacement kit for the TR6? I need to do something soon. Thanks Bob G From triosan at gmail.com Tue Oct 11 14:06:52 2011 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Tue, 11 Oct 2011 13:06:52 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Question re: cracks in IRS trailing arms Message-ID: Both of the trailing arms on my TR6 racer have cracks in the trailing arms. They are about 1 to 1.5 inches long and start at the bottom edge immediately in front of the brake backing plate. They go through, that is are visable from both sides [though worse from inside]. Questions: 1. How dangerous is this? It looks like there would need to be a whole lot more cracking before danger of breaking. 2. Can they be repaired? 3. Can I do a lapping day practice in a couple of weeks with them in this condition [may have been like that for a long time?]. Thanks in advance, -- Chuck Arnold From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed Oct 12 13:32:13 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 12:32:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop Message-ID: <000e01cc8915$a4765a00$ed630e00$@ca> Somebody told me the other day that a TR6 hardtop will fit on a TR4. Do these fit...does anybody have any proper pictures of it? Thanks Paul From triosan at gmail.com Wed Oct 12 17:26:12 2011 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 12 Oct 2011 16:26:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Need rear trailing arms for TR6 -- Seattle-Tacoma area Message-ID: Does anyone in the area have a pair [or of immediate need, a left] trailing arm for an IRS TR that they could sell,or lend me till I can arrange to get one from out of town? For that matter, does anyone on the list have the above they could shipto me in Tacoma for arrival by next Wednesday? Thanks, -- Chuck Arnold From DJFidler at rogers.com Thu Oct 13 10:46:05 2011 From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 12:46:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop In-Reply-To: <000e01cc8915$a4765a00$ed630e00$@ca> References: <000e01cc8915$a4765a00$ed630e00$@ca> Message-ID: <006f01cc89c7$9a055640$ce1002c0$@com> Paul, they only fit after a lot of work (because the TR4 soft top mounts differently) and frankly, they don't look that good on the more rounded TR4 body style, but that's only my opinion. The TR4 surrey top fits onto a TR6 and looks quite nice, but I've never seen it done in reverse. Fid. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 3:32 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop Somebody told me the other day that a TR6 hardtop will fit on a TR4. Do these fit...does anybody have any proper pictures of it? Thanks Paul ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Thu Oct 13 11:18:25 2011 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 13:18:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Wishbone classics seatbelts? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0A23EADD22E640C28556130320CB2D6D@JerryPC> Bob G I bought an expensive pair from Moss. They work well, the retracting reels mount like the originals and do not obstruct the top frame. Don't know about wishbone.Jerry Date: Mon, 10 Oct 2011 18:59:13 -0400 (EDT) From: TRsick at aol.com To: tr at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Wishbone classics seatbelts? Message-ID: <3168b.3088baec.3bc4d2c1 at aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Anyone have any comments on the Wishbone Classics 3 point seat belt replacement kit for the TR6? I need to do something soon. Thanks Bob G From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Thu Oct 13 13:09:52 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Thu, 13 Oct 2011 15:09:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop In-Reply-To: <006f01cc89c7$9a055640$ce1002c0$@com> References: <000e01cc8915$a4765a00$ed630e00$@ca>, <006f01cc89c7$9a055640$ce1002c0$@com> Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01573F617825@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> A true TR-4 surrey top will not work on a TR-6. The true surrey top (not an after-market fiberglass hardtop) involves a structure that is a permanent part of the TR-4 body, and the "top" is is a panel that links the windshield to the rear structure. It's a bit like a "T-Top" design that was popular on Corvettes, etc. The true TR-6 hardtop can be fitted to the TR-4, with some minor mods to the car, which includes using the TR-6 windshield and mods to rear edge of the body where the soft top attaches. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Fidler [DJFidler at rogers.com] Sent: Thursday, October 13, 2011 12:46 PM To: 'PG'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 hardtop Paul, they only fit after a lot of work (because the TR4 soft top mounts differently) and frankly, they don't look that good on the more rounded TR4 body style, but that's only my opinion. The TR4 surrey top fits onto a TR6 and looks quite nice, but I've never seen it done in reverse. Fid. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Wednesday, October 12, 2011 3:32 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop Somebody told me the other day that a TR6 hardtop will fit on a TR4. Do these fit...does anybody have any proper pictures of it? Thanks Paul ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sat Oct 15 19:28:31 2011 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:28:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust needs a tad more loud Message-ID: <46A5DF70-4659-4888-8523-882A9DDC902D@nc.rr.com> I love the exhaust note of my stock-exhaust '74-6, but sometimes I wish it had, oh, sayyy 1-2 metric tads more audible volume, but nuthin' barky or uncivilized. (Wind noise p*ss*s me off.) What's the experienced word? Do I go with a Monza system? Another brand shoe-horned on? Drill, hammer, & duct tape? Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF18xxx-UO From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sat Oct 15 19:48:46 2011 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:48:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Washer Pump Cover Message-ID: I had to replace the windshield washer pump with that generic replacement thing. Trouble is, there doesn't seem to be any cover available. It is seriously kluge-bubba ugly. (I was thinkin' of runnin' copper tubing to it to make it look at least steampunk.) Anybody ever rig up a cover that looks, you know, intentional? Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Sun Oct 16 06:32:12 2011 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 12:32:12 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust needs a tad more loud In-Reply-To: <46A5DF70-4659-4888-8523-882A9DDC902D@nc.rr.com> References: <46A5DF70-4659-4888-8523-882A9DDC902D@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: I cut back the outer skin of my muffler, drilled out the holes between the inner pipe and outer shell welded it back up and it sounds great. That was two three ago and no problems. A muffler shop can do it for way less that a new exhaust system. That being said I'm looking forward to hearing others replies.Bob Rochlin'72 TR6 > From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com > Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:28:31 -0400 > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Exhaust needs a tad more loud > > I love the exhaust note of my stock-exhaust '74-6, > but sometimes I wish it had, oh, sayyy 1-2 metric tads more audible volume, > but nuthin' barky or uncivilized. (Wind noise p*ss*s me off.) > What's the experienced word? > Do I go with a Monza system? Another brand shoe-horned on? Drill, hammer, & > duct tape? > > Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF18xxx-UO > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/r_rochlin at hotmail.com From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Sun Oct 16 07:24:05 2011 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 09:24:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Signal/Tail/Brake Light Wiring Message-ID: I've been experimenting with the wiring arrangement with an idea of increasing visibility and safety. This after I amost got run over from the rear by a tailgating SUV, and this in my newly redone '74. I recently ordered an LED tail/brake light kit (not cheap) from http://www.classicautoleds.com . See, too, their installation manual at http://www.classicautoleds.com/files/Installation_Instruction_TR6.pdf Another company, http://bmcautos.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_i d=138&zenid=2850ffdbd91b0fb9346203dc103eeb5e apparently sells the same or a very similar product. Anyone have experience with these kits? Jerry Shaw 1974 TR6 Mallard Green http://www.triumphowners.com/977 From stubeatty at aol.com Sun Oct 16 09:01:13 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 11:01:13 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <8CE5A2B94BAE28B-1770-4B8B1@webmail-m057.sysops.aol.com> Have you heard, that the President of the USA admitted that he buys meds here?... http://www.mfkp.pl/com.page.php?phot=59z4 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 16 09:27:27 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 10:27:27 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear Signal/Tail/Brake Light Wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7166654E90114F1594BF6019495F8945@ranteer.local> for bulbs many have gone to www.litezupp.com - these are car guys, electronics types, and understand TR lights. I have their tail/backup lites and rear blinkers in mine. they are BRIGHT! -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jerry Shaw" Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 8:24 AM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Rear Signal/Tail/Brake Light Wiring > I've been experimenting with the wiring arrangement with an idea of > increasing > visibility and safety. This after I amost got run over from the rear by a > tailgating SUV, and this in my newly redone '74. > > I recently ordered an LED tail/brake light kit (not cheap) from > http://www.classicautoleds.com . See, too, their installation manual at > http://www.classicautoleds.com/files/Installation_Instruction_TR6.pdf > Another company, > http://bmcautos.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_i > d=138&zenid=2850ffdbd91b0fb9346203dc103eeb5e apparently sells the same or > a > very similar product. > > Anyone have experience with these kits? From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 16 09:28:23 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 10:28:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust needs a tad more loud In-Reply-To: References: <46A5DF70-4659-4888-8523-882A9DDC902D@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: the monza systems are way too loud. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Rochlin" Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 7:32 AM To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust needs a tad more loud > I cut back the outer skin of my muffler, drilled out the holes between the > inner pipe and outer shell welded it back up and it sounds great. That > was > two three ago and no problems. A muffler shop can do it for way less that > a > new exhaust system. That being said I'm looking forward to hearing others > replies.Bob Rochlin'72 TR6 > >> From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com >> Date: Sat, 15 Oct 2011 21:28:31 -0400 >> To: 6pack at autox.team.net >> Subject: [6pack] Exhaust needs a tad more loud >> >> I love the exhaust note of my stock-exhaust '74-6, >> but sometimes I wish it had, oh, sayyy 1-2 metric tads more audible >> volume, >> but nuthin' barky or uncivilized. (Wind noise p*ss*s me off.) >> What's the experienced word? >> Do I go with a Monza system? Another brand shoe-horned on? Drill, hammer, >> & >> duct tape? >> >> Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF18xxx-UO From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 16 11:46:49 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 12:46:49 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starter motor Message-ID: I'm in need of a starter motor for a 72 tr6 if anyone has one available. this would be the kind where the gear extends out over the ring gear and then is pulled back into it. I also have a starter motor if anyone wants to trade, where it pushes out into the ring gear dave northrup 214-394-8296 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 16 15:39:10 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 16:39:10 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc Message-ID: <01CE0605ADF94CDA831C2AFE7DDD111C@ranteer.local> Over a year ago I had trouble with the starter engaging. If I turned the engine manually about 90 degrees it would engage better. Then eventually that stopped working. So we removed the tranny and the flywheel, discovering that the ring gear had started to move away from its location, preventing the starter from engaging. I had purchased a new ring gear since I wasn't sure what the problem was. I took it to be installed on the flywheel, and the machine shop told me the old ring gear was in backwards. I attributed this to the supplier of the lightened flywheel, wrote it off to experience, and had them install the ring gear "correctly." About a year later the starter motor quit engaging the ring gear (again). Pulling the starter motor revealed that the top quarter of the gear was completely chewed off. This is a high torque starter. Further investigation and discussion revealed some interesting information. The orientation of the starter on TR motors is from the engine compartment with the active part facing the rear/passenger compartment of the car. The ring gear has beveled edges which should face into the gear of the starter motor. >From what I understand, some starter motors pull the gear into the ring gear from the back of the car; all high torque starters push the gear from the front into the ring gear. From what I can tell, and this is approximate, the TR2/3 starters, also called bullnose, pulled the gear back into the ring gear. TR3a, TR4, TR250, and early TR6 up until late 1972 TR6 pushed the gear forward. Then it reverted to the early style (pulling the gear back into the ring gear) for the rest of TR6 production. If this isn't correct, please feel free to chime in. I think I now understand this issue, but if I'm missing something I'd really like to know that. This is an issue which I would love to hear more about, and if you are considering a high torque starter something that you need to understand. What I have yet to understand is how/why my ring gear got pushed forward and out of reach. Is the answer is to have the ring gear pinned so that this does not happen? From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Sun Oct 16 15:54:49 2011 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 17:54:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Signal/Tail/Brake Light Wiring Message-ID: Okay, well I'm highly skeptical of the litezupp approach because it doesn't make a whole lot of sense if you compare it to the Classic approach - yes I know the litezupp guys are auto guys and members of the IEEE and are expert engineers. But, hey, give me a break. First of all they offer 4 high-intensity LEDs in an enclosure that allows easy use of the existing sockets in the back end of your car, so from a marketing view that's appealing. But it's the a-s-s end of your car at risk, so be a little skeptical and ask the right questions. Ask about their high directionality and the use of the existing reflectors with the Litezupp approach? Don't think so. They may seem bright from a limited angle from behind, but what about the angle of visibility such as from the side, where someone may be sitting as you are zooming down the freeway. With 63 bright red LEDs filling the entire lens of the rear production lens module, doesn't it make more sense to fill that lens with many LEDs as possible, each with an included illumination angle of probably over 120 degrees? Anyway, I ordered from Classic to encourage him to make more production runs, then I ordered a couple of 1156 amber lights for my rear signal lights from Litezupp to .... ahemm --- cover my a-s-s from ... ahemm... behind. Date: Sun, 16 Oct 2011 10:27:27 -0500 From: "oliver" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Signal/Tail/Brake Light Wiring Message-ID: <7166654E90114F1594BF6019495F8945 at ranteer.local> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original for bulbs many have gone to www.litezupp.com - these are car guys, electronics types, and understand TR lights. I have their tail/backup lites and rear blinkers in mine. they are BRIGHT! From: "Jerry Shaw" Sent: Sunday, October 16, 2011 8:24 AM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Rear Signal/Tail/Brake Light Wiring > I've been experimenting with the wiring arrangement with an idea of > increasing > visibility and safety. This after I amost got run over from the rear by a > tailgating SUV, and this in my newly redone '74. > > I recently ordered an LED tail/brake light kit (not cheap) from > http://www.classicautoleds.com . See, too, their installation manual at > http://www.classicautoleds.com/files/Installation_Instruction_TR6.pdf > Another company, > http://bmcautos.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=19&products_i > d=138&zenid=2850ffdbd91b0fb9346203dc103eeb5e apparently sells the same or > a > very similar product. > > Anyone have experience with these kits? From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Oct 17 00:39:16 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 06:39:16 GMT Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc Message-ID: Oliver---Early four TRs had their starter motor gear engage the ring gear from the back forward. (Don't know the exact year this started or ended) All the sixes that I've come across in this area had their starter gears enter the ring gear from the front. When the factory built the sixes, the bevel on the ring gear was never changed to the front, as logic would dictate. But this bassackwards bevel worked on most of the TR6s without a problem. If a ring gear has to be taken off for any reason, this would be a good time to turn it around. This ring gear is a heat-it-up-to-fit for installation. When the ring gear cools, it should never move due to starter motor engagement. (One would need to split it to take it from the flywheel). Dick '73 From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 17 06:53:55 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 05:53:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 on Parenthood In-Reply-To: <1318617054.31535.YahooMailNeo@web160301.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1318617054.31535.YahooMailNeo@web160301.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1318856035.87744.YahooMailNeo@web160318.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I don't know word has gone out on this or not, but if any of you watch NBC's show Parenthood, you've no doubt seen that there's a TR6 that gets a fair amount of screen time some weeks. It's a fairly ratty '75 or '76 - with the wrong seats, car-color rear valance, and sometimes sports a fugly vinyl hardtop. It's owned by a character named Crosby, the well intentioned but black-sheep son of the Braverman family. Last week however it did get to drive around a bit as Crosby had to rush his sister in-law to the hospital as she had just gone into labor. Her water had just broke (although no harm would come to that interior), and there was a joke made about her delivering the baby in the car. That I'd like to have seen. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Mon Oct 17 07:23:10 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 09:23:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01573F61782D@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> If I understand you correctly in your first statement, you are referring to the "long shaft" or "long nose" starters. This was a design used in the TR-2s and some early TR-3s, not early 4s. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 2:39 AM To: oliver; Triumph 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc Oliver---Early four TRs had their starter motor gear engage the ring gear from the back forward. (Don't know the exact year this started or ended) All the sixes that I've come across in this area had their starter gears enter the ring gear from the front. When the factory built the sixes, the bevel on the ring gear was never changed to the front, as logic would dictate. But this bassackwards bevel worked on most of the TR6s without a problem. If a ring gear has to be taken off for any reason, this would be a good time to turn it around. This ring gear is a heat-it-up-to-fit for installation. When the ring gear cools, it should never move due to starter motor engagement. (One would need to split it to take it from the flywheel). Dick '73 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Oct 17 07:52:54 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 09:52:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Exhaust needs a tad more loud In-Reply-To: <46A5DF70-4659-4888-8523-882A9DDC902D@nc.rr.com> References: <46A5DF70-4659-4888-8523-882A9DDC902D@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: Hi, I've posted a few times on this subject. :-) I ran a Monza system for years, probably 15 years or so. I hated it. After a long trip, my ears would be ringing and I'd be very tired. And I drove that thing - I "iron manned" to Dallas, Road America a couple of times, Virgina from Boston and lots of other "shorter" trips. I used to set off car alarms in car parks and all that. I finally pulled that system out at the end of last year. Oddly, after close to 40k miles, all the pipes were in almost perfect condition, so it proably would have lasted another number of years had I not cut it out with a torch "accidentally". :-) I wound up putting in a custom exhaust made of 2" pipe and a "turbo" style muffler. Turbo mufflers are quiet untill you tromp in it. And on my car, when the cam comes one, the thing makes enough noise that you know something's going on under the hood. But when driving around / cruising, you can actually talk (not yell!!) to your passenger. This was HUGE for me. The bottom line for my setup which included some messaging to get the system attached to the special header I have was not cheap at $400, but I didn't even get my hands dirty in the process, so that was pretty sweet. My only regret is that I would have liked all the tubes to have been done in stainless, but the shop that did the work used fairly thick aluminized steel (14 gauge, I think - it's pretty thick) so I doubt this system will ever rust out... I could go into great detail on this, but I won't right now. Suffice to say that the sound is great and the cost was reasonable when compared to buying a Falcon or other brand SS "sport" setup - I highly recommend this way of doing the exhaust. So much so that I also have a similar setup on my race car, although the race car uses a 2.5" pipe from the header back. That car is fairly quiet too, although it doesn't see a lot of partial throttle running. And the carb intake noise is actually louder than the exhaust, believe it or not. c ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From whitetr6 at gmail.com Mon Oct 17 08:08:20 2011 From: whitetr6 at gmail.com (Mark Creamer) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 10:08:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 on Parenthood In-Reply-To: <1318856035.87744.YahooMailNeo@web160318.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1318617054.31535.YahooMailNeo@web160301.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <1318856035.87744.YahooMailNeo@web160318.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The one and only time I watched a vampire show on HBO called True Blood, there was a TR6 on there as well. Not sure if it's the same one just making the Hollywood rounds or what. Didn't think the show was worth watching past that one time... Mark On Mon, Oct 17, 2011 at 8:53 AM, Joe Merone wrote: > > I don't know word has gone out on this or not, but if any of you watch > NBC's show Parenthood, you've no doubt seen that there's a TR6 that gets a > fair amount of screen time some weeks. It's a fairly ratty '75 or '76 - > with > the wrong seats, car-color rear valance, and sometimes sports a fugly vinyl > hardtop. It's owned by a character named Crosby, the well intentioned but > black-sheep son of the Braverman family. > > > Last week however it did get to > drive around a bit as Crosby had to rush his sister in-law to the hospital > as > she had just gone into labor. Her water had just broke (although no harm > would come to that interior), and there was a joke made about her > delivering > the baby in the car. That I'd like to have seen. > > Joe Merone > South > Burlington, VT > CF18928 5-speed > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/whitetr6 at gmail.com > > > -- Mark From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Oct 17 12:29:20 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 18:29:20 GMT Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc Message-ID: James---Years ago I had a converation with a tech guy at TRF. He told me that TRiumph left the bevel on the ring gear on the rear, even tho when developing the six, the starter gear now engaged from the front. From that I assumed that all the fours had a rear engaging starter. Sorry if I added to any confusion here. (Ted S. also gave me a heads up on this). Dick -----Original Message----- From: Ruffner, James A *HS Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 6:23 AM To: Sally or Dick Taylor, oliver, Triumph 6 Pack Subject: RE: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc If I understand you correctly in your first statement, you are referring to the "long shaft" or "long nose" starters. This was a design used in the TR-2s and some early TR-3s, not early 4s. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 2:39 AM To: oliver; Triumph 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc Oliver---Early four TRs had their starter motor gear engage the ring gear from the back forward. (Don't know the exact year this started or ended) All the sixes that I've come across in this area had their starter gears enter the ring gear from the front. When the factory built the sixes, the bevel on the ring gear was never changed to the front, as logic would dictate. But this bassackwards bevel worked on most of the TR6s without a problem. If a ring gear has to be taken off for any reason, this would be a good time to turn it around. This ring gear is a heat-it-up-to-fit for installation. When the ring gear cools, it should never move due to starter motor engagement. (One would need to split it to take it from the flywheel). Dick '73 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 17 14:31:04 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 15:31:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <10930E0B34DE46218CD46F257987C83C@ranteer.local> so if I have an original starter motor (HEAVY!!!) I should be able to put it in and drive off??? then some point in the future pull the tranny and switch the ring gear around? -------------------------------------------------- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 1:29 PM To: ; "oliver" ; "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: RE: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc > James---Years ago I had a converation with a tech guy at TRF. He told me > that TRiumph left the bevel on the ring gear on the rear, even tho when > developing the six, the starter gear now engaged from the front. From that > I assumed that all the fours had a rear engaging starter. Sorry if I added > to any confusion here. (Ted S. also gave me a heads up on this). > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ruffner, James A *HS > Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 6:23 AM > To: Sally or Dick Taylor, oliver, Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: RE: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc > > If I understand you correctly in your first statement, you are referring > to the "long shaft" or "long nose" starters. This was a design used in > the TR-2s and some early TR-3s, not early 4s. > ________________________________________ > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] > Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 2:39 AM > To: oliver; Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: Re: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc > > Oliver---Early four TRs had their starter motor gear engage the ring gear > from the back forward. (Don't know the exact year this started or ended) > All the sixes that I've come across in this area had their starter gears > enter the ring gear from the front. > > When the factory built the sixes, the bevel on the ring gear was never > changed to the front, as logic would dictate. But this bassackwards bevel > worked on most of the TR6s without a problem. If a ring gear has to be > taken off for any reason, this would be a good time to turn it around. > This ring gear is a heat-it-up-to-fit for installation. When the ring gear > cools, it should never move due to starter motor engagement. (One would > need to split it to take it from the flywheel). > > Dick > '73 From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Mon Oct 17 19:42:00 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Mon, 17 Oct 2011 21:42:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc In-Reply-To: <10930E0B34DE46218CD46F257987C83C@ranteer.local> References: , <10930E0B34DE46218CD46F257987C83C@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01573F61782F@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> What was going on was that the six cylinder engine was first employed in the TR-250 in the US and it was the TR-5 in Europe. The 5 was fuel injected. Both used the TR-4A body with the independent rear suspension. Both of these used the older style of starter motor which operated by pulling the pinion gear into the starter ring from the clutch disk/transmission side. When the engine started, its RPM kicked the pinion back out of the ring gear. Thus the beveling of the ring gear was also on the transmission side. With the introduction of the -6, the newer style of starter was employed, which used a starter solenoid. This uses a lever arm that has a fork that engages the pinion on one end and and the other is hooked to the solenoid on the other. The lever pivots in order to drive the pinion into the teeth of the ring gear. The pinion is pretty much stationary relative to the ring gear at this point so there is a minimum of teeth grinding upon starting. One note is that the ring gear has no initial beveling of its teeth because of this design. With the pinion coming from the engine side of the flywheel, older design ring gears with the beveling installed towards the transmission side would work just fine. They likely just used all the older style ring/flywheel designs in the newer cars. Pretty typical in Europe. According to the official TR-6 manual the ring gears were simply sweated onto the flywheel. There were no retaining bolts as was the case with the earlier TRs. The removal of a bad ring gear was accomplished by using a cold chisel to split it. A new one was then sweated on. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver [sumton at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 4:31 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc so if I have an original starter motor (HEAVY!!!) I should be able to put it in and drive off??? then some point in the future pull the tranny and switch the ring gear around? -------------------------------------------------- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 1:29 PM To: ; "oliver" ; "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: RE: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc > James---Years ago I had a converation with a tech guy at TRF. He told me > that TRiumph left the bevel on the ring gear on the rear, even tho when > developing the six, the starter gear now engaged from the front. From that > I assumed that all the fours had a rear engaging starter. Sorry if I added > to any confusion here. (Ted S. also gave me a heads up on this). > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Ruffner, James A *HS > Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 6:23 AM > To: Sally or Dick Taylor, oliver, Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: RE: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc > > If I understand you correctly in your first statement, you are referring > to the "long shaft" or "long nose" starters. This was a design used in > the TR-2s and some early TR-3s, not early 4s. > ________________________________________ > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor [tr6taylor at webtv.net] > Sent: Monday, October 17, 2011 2:39 AM > To: oliver; Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: Re: [6pack] starters, ring gears, etc > > Oliver---Early four TRs had their starter motor gear engage the ring gear > from the back forward. (Don't know the exact year this started or ended) > All the sixes that I've come across in this area had their starter gears > enter the ring gear from the front. > > When the factory built the sixes, the bevel on the ring gear was never > changed to the front, as logic would dictate. But this bassackwards bevel > worked on most of the TR6s without a problem. If a ring gear has to be > taken off for any reason, this would be a good time to turn it around. > This ring gear is a heat-it-up-to-fit for installation. When the ring gear > cools, it should never move due to starter motor engagement. (One would > need to split it to take it from the flywheel). > > Dick > '73 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Mon Oct 17 22:56:52 2011 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 00:56:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Gauge illumination Message-ID: I'm about to clean up my instrument faces and glass, replace indicator bulbs with LEDs, replace o-rings, look for dead mice, etc. I remember a while back someone used a solid-state strip to illuminate the speedo and tach. (1) Anyone have that link? LED lamps won't dim with the instrument-brightness-control rheostat, right? (2) Right? Doug Morris, NC, '74-6 From stubeatty at aol.com Tue Oct 18 03:56:29 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 05:56:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <8CE5B9357757024-132C-78FCF@Webmail-m108.sysops.aol.com> Increase your sexual activity naturally? Yes! Ito?=s really possible!.. http://www.tenloenmente.com/com.page.php?zaolid=08yv7 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Oct 18 07:22:25 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 13:22:25 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Rear Signal/Tail/Brake Light Wiring In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Team, On the topic of brighter rear bulbs, my brother has done some research on use of new Krypton bulbs that are a straight screw in replacement for the originals. His brake lights are damn bright now. His notes are below: in place of the 1157 use a 3496, in place of the 1156 use a 3497 in the turn signal. a brighter 796 is recommended for the backup lights in place of their 1156. below is more details if they want to know. in the brake / running light the old bulb is a 1157. the bright (brake) element is 32 candlepower, and 3 candlepower on the low element. the high element pulls 26.8 watts and 2.10 amps. replace it with a 3496 bulb. same socket, krypton bulb. originally on hondas. bright element is 43 candlepower, low is 3 cp. high element pulls 27.0 watts and 2.25 amps. watts and amps so close heat isn't an issue, basically just like the 1157, but 43cp vs 32cp, much brighter. for turn signal old bulb is 1156, new one is 3497. same as above bulb except only one element, 43 candlepower. The best bulb for use in backup/reverse lights is a 796. It is a 35W halogen bulb that produces 62 candlepower The extra wattage is minor, 35w vs 26.8 in the 1156. Do NOT use a 50W halogen backup bulb, they produce too much heat. I've never cared how bright my backups are, but ok. (haha) Sloane :) 69-Six From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue Oct 18 09:31:08 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 08:31:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears etc. Message-ID: <1318951868.59437.YahooMailNeo@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I replaced the ring gear a few years ago during a clutch and flywheel job. It was chewed in several places. I wondered whether this was nornal for an old ring gear or, a result of my high torque starter motor. Brce Simms 73 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Oct 18 13:19:17 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 18 Oct 2011 19:19:17 GMT Subject: [6pack] starters, ring gears etc. Message-ID: Bruce---I don't know if your chewed teeth are the result of the high torque starter, but other than being heavy, I've never heard any thing bad about the stock starter. All good teeth here, no crowns! On the ring gear, at least. Dick '73 -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Simms Sent: Tuesday, October 18, 2011 8:31 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] starters, ring gears etc. I replaced the ring gear a few years ago during a clutch and flywheel job. It was chewed in several places. I wondered whether this was nornal for an old ring gear or, a result of my high torque starter motor. Brce Simms 73 TR6 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From lee at automate-it.com Wed Oct 19 20:19:33 2011 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Wed, 19 Oct 2011 21:19:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gauge illumination In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: This may be the one you're thinking about: http://jaguaretype.wordpress.com/home/technical/dash-instrument-lighting-upgrade/ (or the short version http://tinyurl.com/3qd2g2h ) I'd love to do this some day... but the list is quite long... - Lee > I'm about to clean up my instrument faces and glass, replace indicator bulbs > with LEDs, replace o-rings, look for dead mice, etc. > > I remember a while back someone used a solid-state strip to illuminate the > speedo and tach. > (1) Anyone have that link? > > LED lamps won't dim with the instrument-brightness-control rheostat, right? > (2) Right? > > Doug Morris, NC, '74-6 From Chip19474 at aol.com Fri Oct 21 06:17:18 2011 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 08:17:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 on Parenthood Message-ID: <3717c.57ee78b0.3bd2bccd@aol.com> Yes.....my wife and I are regular Parenthood watchers and I'm always looking for Crosby's TR6. What was really funny was how he managed to talk on his cellphone while driving the car and never shifting.....of course it is TV so anything can be made to go smoothly:) However, kudos to the producers for either filming one segment while he was actually driving the car on the road or at least getting an authentic TR6 sound track corrrect.....the exhaust note sounded real to me! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 10/17/2011 10:03:33 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jmerone at rocketmail.com writes: I don't know word has gone out on this or not, but if any of you watch NBC's show Parenthood, you've no doubt seen that there's a TR6 that gets a fair amount of screen time some weeks. It's a fairly ratty '75 or '76 - with the wrong seats, car-color rear valance, and sometimes sports a fugly vinyl hardtop. It's owned by a character named Crosby, the well intentioned but black-sheep son of the Braverman family. Last week however it did get to drive around a bit as Crosby had to rush his sister in-law to the hospital as she had just gone into labor. Her water had just broke (although no harm would come to that interior), and there was a joke made about her delivering the baby in the car. That I'd like to have seen. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/chip19474 at aol.com From jmerone at rocketmail.com Fri Oct 21 10:55:11 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 09:55:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 on Parenthood In-Reply-To: <3717c.57ee78b0.3bd2bccd@aol.com> References: <3717c.57ee78b0.3bd2bccd@aol.com> Message-ID: <1319216111.51403.YahooMailNeo@web160309.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I too immediately picked up on Crosby's cell phone prowess. When I'm driving the TR6, it's the one time I tell my wife not to expect me to pick up the phone very quickly when it rings - if at all. And don't even try to dial out! Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed Until the snow flies, now is some of the best driving of they year up here. ________________________________ From: "Chip19474 at aol.com" To: jmerone at rocketmail.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 21, 2011 8:17 AM Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 on Parenthood Yes.....my wife and I are regular Parenthood watchers and I'm always looking for Crosby's TR6. What was really funny was how he managed to talk on his cellphone while driving the car and never shifting.....of course it is TV so anything can be made to go smoothly:) However, kudos to the producers for either filming one segment while he was actually driving the car on the road or at least getting an authentic TR6 sound track corrrect.....the exhaust note sounded real to me! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U From TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com Fri Oct 21 21:19:03 2011 From: TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com (TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 23:19:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] J Type Overdrive Message-ID: I'm thinking about adding J type overdrive to my 1971 TR6 which currently has a standard 4 speed. Does anyone in the Great Lakes area have one for sale? Any advice??? Thanks Doug From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 21 21:46:28 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 21 Oct 2011 22:46:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] popping/backfire at idle, low speed Message-ID: 72 tr6, triple carb, mild cam, electronic igniter, compression 10+, lightened flywheel, polished/ported, decked, headers, etc at idle, and low speed it pops/backfires at idle. seems ok at higher rpm doesn't seem to be moreso at deceleration took all the deceleration bypass valves off and replaced gasket. diaphrams seemed ok, springs are there. car recently had a full tune up etc and a several hundred mile trip on which it ran ok. thoughts/suggestions? From djfidler at rogers.com Sat Oct 22 02:34:52 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 04:34:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] J Type Overdrive In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1ED06593-9839-4303-8554-C9F940587FEB@rogers.com> The 71 TR6 would have had an A type overdrive, which bolts straight in. To install a J type, you'll need to move the rear mount. Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 21, 2011, at 11:19 PM, TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com wrote: > I'm thinking about adding J type overdrive to my 1971 TR6 which currently > has a standard 4 speed. Does anyone in the Great Lakes area have one for > sale? > Any advice??? > Thanks > Doug > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Oct 22 03:11:38 2011 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 05:11:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] popping/backfire at idle, low speed In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Subject: [6pack] popping/backfire at idle, low speed 72 tr6, triple carb, mild cam, electronic igniter, compression 10+, lightened flywheel, polished/ported, decked, headers, etc at idle, and low speed it pops/backfires at idle. seems ok at higher rpm doesn't seem to be moreso at deceleration took all the deceleration bypass valves off and replaced gasket. diaphrams seemed ok, springs are there. car recently had a full tune up etc and a several hundred mile trip on which it ran ok. thoughts/suggestions? Have you checked the color of the plugs. Do all six. This will tell you a lot. Maybe during your tune up the air fuel ratio was changed. From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Oct 22 06:09:27 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Oct 2011 12:09:27 +0000 Subject: [6pack] J Type Overdrive Message-ID: <777486628-1319285356-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-486047570-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry> Think you'll want an A type to keep from having to modify the tranny mounts. Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] J Type Overdrive Sent: Oct 21, 2011 10:19 PM I'm thinking about adding J type overdrive to my 1971 TR6 which currently has a standard 4 speed. Does anyone in the Great Lakes area have one for sale? Any advice??? Thanks Doug ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 23 23:10:54 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 00:10:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] popping/backfire at idle, low speed In-Reply-To: <40521C0C1C204C04B5D1E1AF2018D296@Robert> References: <40521C0C1C204C04B5D1E1AF2018D296@Robert> Message-ID: <7DD9CF9924934E4697915B0F9CDBA7CD@ranteer.local> many sincere thanks to those that helped me through this. here's the initial problem: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V4rbTmC8858 I was inspired by the lister who suggested that there was unburned fuel in the exhaust, so I started with the simple stuff. I was planning to swap out the dizzy, but thought I'd check the plugs first. these plugs are awful!!! probably due to the previous issue I was having with the carbs. http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN6101.JPG new plugs; its like a new car!!!!!! YAY!!! >> Subject: [6pack] popping/backfire at idle, low speed >> >> 72 tr6, triple carb, mild cam, electronic igniter, compression 10+, >> lightened >> flywheel, polished/ported, decked, headers, etc >> >> at idle, and low speed it pops/backfires at idle. >> >> seems ok at higher rpm >> >> doesn't seem to be moreso at deceleration >> >> took all the deceleration bypass valves off and replaced gasket. >> diaphrams >> seemed ok, springs are there. >> >> car recently had a full tune up etc and a several hundred mile trip on >> which >> it ran ok. >> >> thoughts/suggestions? From stubeatty at aol.com Mon Oct 24 10:17:27 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 12:17:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <8CE607F8E44DFCC-A90-403FB@webmail-m022.sysops.aol.com> This link can change your life to the best!.. http://bapig.com/com.page.php?urID=46yk9 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 24 21:14:24 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 22:14:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] gaskets Message-ID: <4989F7FCA7A245B4998CF4591752B081@ranteer.local> I need the gaskets for a speedo and tach. I know someone out there makes them. From stubeatty at aol.com Tue Oct 25 05:52:11 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 07:52:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] 5 Message-ID: <8CE6123AA42B876-2260-7BA57@webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com> Oh! Ito?=s amazing! Io?=ve never tried anything better!.. http://www.gestos.es/com.page.php?adgoogleId=50a6 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Oct 25 06:44:37 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 12:44:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] gaskets In-Reply-To: <4989F7FCA7A245B4998CF4591752B081@ranteer.local> References: <4989F7FCA7A245B4998CF4591752B081@ranteer.local> Message-ID: You can use the gasket from a spin-on filter. Sloane :) 69-Six > I need the gaskets for a speedo and tach. I know someone out there makes > them. > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/im_sloane at hotmail.com From rick.carroll at teradyne.com Tue Oct 25 12:48:01 2011 From: rick.carroll at teradyne.com (rick.carroll at teradyne.com) Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 14:48:01 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Please remove me from the distribution list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Please remove me from the distribution list Please remove me from the distribution list Please remove me from the distribution list Regards, Rick Carroll 610-797-3037 Office 610-442-0473 Cell From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Date: 10/25/2011 02:43 PM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 114 Sent by: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. gaskets (oliver) 2. Re: 5 (stubeatty at aol.com) 3. Re: gaskets (im sloane) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 22:14:24 -0500 From: "oliver" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] gaskets Message-ID: <4989F7FCA7A245B4998CF4591752B081 at ranteer.local> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I need the gaskets for a speedo and tach. I know someone out there makes them. ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 07:52:11 -0400 (EDT) From: stubeatty at aol.com To: 6pack at autox.team.net, 6pack-owner at autox.team.net, 6pack-request at autox.team.net, 6parts at charter.net, anitak at cogeco.ca, beattyjohn at yahoo.com Subject: Re: [6pack] 5 Message-ID: <8CE6123AA42B876-2260-7BA57 at webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; format=flowed; delsp=yes Oh! Ito?=s amazing! Io?=ve never tried anything better!.. http://www.gestos.es/com.page.php?adgoogleId=50a6 ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 12:44:37 +0000 From: im sloane To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] gaskets Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You can use the gasket from a spin-on filter. Sloane :) 69-Six > I need the gaskets for a speedo and tach. I know someone out there makes > them. > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/im_sloane at hotmail.com ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 114 ************************************* From Timbo00001 at aol.com Tue Oct 25 22:13:57 2011 From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 00:13:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Please remove me from the distribution list Message-ID: <188d6.4b4799ea.3bd8e305@aol.com> Me too. Now that some are abusing our mail list. In a message dated 10/25/2011 3:16:37 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, rick.carroll at teradyne.com writes: Please remove me from the distribution list Please remove me from the distribution list Please remove me from the distribution list Regards, Rick Carroll 610-797-3037 Office 610-442-0473 Cell From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Date: 10/25/2011 02:43 PM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 114 Sent by: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. gaskets (oliver) 2. Re: 5 (stubeatty at aol.com) 3. Re: gaskets (im sloane) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 24 Oct 2011 22:14:24 -0500 From: "oliver" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] gaskets Message-ID: <4989F7FCA7A245B4998CF4591752B081 at ranteer.local> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I need the gaskets for a speedo and tach. I know someone out there makes them. ------------------------------ Message: 2 Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 07:52:11 -0400 (EDT) From: stubeatty at aol.com To: 6pack at autox.team.net, 6pack-owner at autox.team.net, 6pack-request at autox.team.net, 6parts at charter.net, anitak at cogeco.ca, beattyjohn at yahoo.com Subject: Re: [6pack] 5 Message-ID: <8CE6123AA42B876-2260-7BA57 at webmail-m130.sysops.aol.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"; format=flowed; delsp=yes Oh! Ito?=s amazing! Io?=ve never tried anything better!.. http://www.gestos.es/com.page.php?adgoogleId=50a6 ------------------------------ Message: 3 Date: Tue, 25 Oct 2011 12:44:37 +0000 From: im sloane To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] gaskets Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" You can use the gasket from a spin-on filter. Sloane :) 69-Six > I need the gaskets for a speedo and tach. I know someone out there makes > them. > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/im_sloane at hotmail.com ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 114 ************************************* ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/timbo00001 at aol.com From sakirsis at consolidated.net Wed Oct 26 06:50:17 2011 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 08:50:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Gaskets Message-ID: <20111026085017.BLL52299@ms01.consolidated.net> Check part #'s slp170 and slp171 at the Roadster Factory. Fit very nicely, I know. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, 75 Pimento. From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Oct 26 16:12:15 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 26 Oct 2011 18:12:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Looking for TR6_Vance Message-ID: <69E278921768442E82120F1104B0D869@DCH6RFC1> Sorry to bomb the list, but if Vance Navarrette (aka TR6_Vance) is there, could you contact me off-list about your recent article in the 6-Pack ? Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From trdoctor at aol.com Thu Oct 27 15:08:02 2011 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark) Date: Thu, 27 Oct 2011 16:08:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Red Line Oil Message-ID: <956913E1-72C8-40EE-A34F-1D744DE6D572@aol.com> Here is a response from Red Line on the usage. Sam, HTH Sorry for the confusion, your differential originally called for a SAE 90 GL-4, the MT-90 is a well suited replacement. A GL-4 gear oil is suitable for a zero or low offset hypoid ring and pinion as well as straight pattern gears fitted in differentials. A high offset hypoid gear, where the pinion approaches the ring gear well below it's centerline requires an extreme pressure, GL-5 type gear oil. The note refers to late model separate differentials which typically contain a high offset hypoid gear. Regards, Dave Red Line Oil From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 30 17:15:59 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 19:15:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] temp gauge Message-ID: <1D03DA81EC1C4A529E81C8F09FAB548A@ranteer.local> hi. I should probably look at the back of the gauge before I ask this question. I recently had to replace the temp gauge in my 72 with one from a parts car. the gauge pinned right for no particular reason, although it did randomly move about, again for no particular reason. the replacement reads awfully far to the right. I also replaced the sending unit while I was at it. the car isn't running hot; its just the gauge. I actually would just like to center the needle so that normal is vertical instead of just left of panic. is there a way to do this? thanks! From dc_bruin at hotmail.com Sun Oct 30 20:47:56 2011 From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper) Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 20:47:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Snap Needed Message-ID: Hi Guys, I'm replacing my top and find myself in need of exactly one male plastic snap. I ordered the others when I repainted my car several years ago and I must not have ordered any spares and/or used up or lost any extras I did have. At any rate, there's no cost-effective way to order just one or two from the big 3 so if anyone has a spare or two laying around and would be willing to help a brother out, I'd be forever in debt. Thanks, Dwayne From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Oct 31 05:05:21 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 12:05:21 +0000 Subject: [6pack] temp gauge In-Reply-To: <1D03DA81EC1C4A529E81C8F09FAB548A@ranteer.local> References: <1D03DA81EC1C4A529E81C8F09FAB548A@ranteer.local> Message-ID: Have you checked the voltage stabilizer? Is the gas gauge ok? Sloane :) 69-Six > From: sumton at sbcglobal.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 30 Oct 2011 19:15:59 -0500 > Subject: [6pack] temp gauge > > hi. I should probably look at the back of the gauge before I ask this > question. > > I recently had to replace the temp gauge in my 72 with one from a parts car. > the gauge pinned right for no particular reason, although it did randomly move > about, again for no particular reason. > > the replacement reads awfully far to the right. I also replaced the sending > unit while I was at it. the car isn't running hot; its just the gauge. > > I actually would just like to center the needle so that normal is vertical > instead of just left of panic. > > is there a way to do this? > > thanks! > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/im_sloane at hotmail.com From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 31 05:52:46 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 05:52:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter Message-ID: <1320065566.43586.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Hi folks. I have a fuel filter on my TR6 that you can see through, and am wondering how much gas there should actually be in there at any given time. It seems kind of low - only about 1/5 full whether the engine is running or turned off. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 31 06:41:17 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 08:41:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] temp gauge In-Reply-To: References: <1D03DA81EC1C4A529E81C8F09FAB548A@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <2D49EA78243648F685A4AF4F8CF3A1F4@ranteer.local> the gas gauge works fine. I am about to swap the analog voltage stabilizer with a digital one. I'll see if that helps. -------------------------------------------------- From: "im sloane" Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 7:05 AM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] temp gauge > Have you checked the voltage stabilizer? Is the gas gauge ok? > > Sloane :) > 69-Six From j.honor at comcast.net Mon Oct 31 07:16:44 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 09:16:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter In-Reply-To: <1320065566.43586.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1320065566.43586.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: How has your car been running? Any concerns there with acceleration or starvation? Regards Joe Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone On Oct 31, 2011, at 7:52 AM, Joe Merone wrote: > Hi folks. > > I have a fuel filter on my TR6 that you can see through, and am > wondering how much gas there should actually be in there at any given time. > It seems kind of low - only about 1/5 full whether the engine is running or > turned off. > > Joe Merone > South Burlington, VT > CF18928 5-speed > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 31 08:18:28 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 08:18:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter In-Reply-To: References: <1320065566.43586.YahooMailNeo@web160306.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1320074308.84410.YahooMailNeo@web160312.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Actually, that's exactly my concern. Some details: All of a sudden my car is taking a LONG time to fire when starting cold. It used to start right up as soon as I touched the key. I'm giving it choke as usual, but it seems like it's not getting enough fuel. Once warm, the idle is ok - but there's a persistent stumble happening at around 2200 RPM while under way. It seems to be skipping, and the throttle feels 'squishy' - like it's not all there under foot. When you punch it or run at a high speed however - it's ok. Running with high-torque starter and a Pertronix ignition and coil. The fuel pump was replaced two seasons ago. Joe Merone To: Joe Merone Cc: Triumph List ; 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter How has your car been running? Any concerns there with acceleration or starvation? Regards Joe Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone From Vsnively at aol.com Mon Oct 31 10:05:46 2011 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 13:05:46 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter Message-ID: <14b99.75547d2c.3be02f6a@aol.com> Joe, I think there have been a number of threads regarding these see-through filters. I believe the concensus is to use the correct AC metal filter and some of these issues will resolve themselves. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC In a message dated 10/31/2011 12:12:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jmerone at rocketmail.com writes: Actually, that's exactly my concern. Some details: All of a sudden my car is taking a LONG time to fire when starting cold. It used to start right up as soon as I touched the key. I'm giving it choke as usual, but it seems like it's not getting enough fuel. Once warm, the idle is ok - but there's a persistent stumble happening at around 2200 RPM while under way. It seems to be skipping, and the throttle feels 'squishy' - like it's not all there under foot. When you punch it or run at a high speed however - it's ok. Running with high-torque starter and a Pertronix ignition and coil. The fuel pump was replaced two seasons ago. Joe Merone To: Joe Merone Cc: Triumph List ; 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 10:16 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter How has your car been running? Any concerns there with acceleration or starvation? Regards Joe Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Oct 31 10:09:16 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 10:09:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter (now running rough) In-Reply-To: <1749804961.1224062.1320079959905.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> References: <1320074308.84410.YahooMailNeo@web160312.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> <1749804961.1224062.1320079959905.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1320080956.44026.YahooMailNeo@web160302.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Bob. You have jogged my memory a bit, and you may be on to something. I accidently left the key in the 'on' postion a few weeks back for a very long time - maybe an hour. I have heard that this is one sure way to ruin a Pertronix. Maybe the coil too. I thought that these things either worked or they didn't. If this is an urban myth, someone please tell me, but I think I'm looking at swapping a couple of things out to see. Thanks, Joe To: Joe Merone Cc: Triumph List ; 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>; Joe Honor Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 12:52 PM Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Proper level in TR6 fuel filter Joe, I would think a partially obstructed fuel filter would result in a hesitation when you punched it and would probably run smooth at constant RPM. You symtoms sound very similar to what I was experiencing each time the Petronix started to give out. It certainly wouldn't hurt to replace the filter element, but, if that fails, try putting some points in and see what happens. Bob From gaf3 at charter.net Mon Oct 31 10:47:19 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 13:47:19 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. Message-ID: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> Hi All I have torn down 4 TR6 engines in the past 4 months all with wiped out cams. The latest was a performance reground cam with low miles and 2 lobes severely worn. I know this has been a topic/thread in the past but wondered what if any Zinc Additives are out there. For the rebuilds, I used either Brad Penn 30wt break in oil, Valvoline Racing oil (20w50) and Rotella ( 15w40 highest in zinc of the diesel oils) As these engines age their owners are going to start changing their own oil, Most have switched back to Castrol 20w50. As I understand that formula has changed to the low zinc for emissions. I'm running it in my engine as well. I'm now very concerned and would like to get this under control with an additive. Any Suggestions? Thanks in Advance Glenn Franco Too Many TR's From DJFidler at rogers.com Mon Oct 31 11:52:20 2011 From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 14:52:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> References: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> Message-ID: <00db01cc97fe$38a02b10$a9e08130$@com> Glenn, there's a product called ZDDP, which you pour in when you change your oil. It's available from Moss. Also, a couple of oil companies still manufacture oil with high zinc content. Valvoline VR-1 and Kendall GR-1 (Called Penzoil in the US I think?) David. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Franco Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 1:47 PM To: Friends of triumph; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. Hi All I have torn down 4 TR6 engines in the past 4 months all with wiped out cams. The latest was a performance reground cam with low miles and 2 lobes severely worn. I know this has been a topic/thread in the past but wondered what if any Zinc Additives are out there. For the rebuilds, I used either Brad Penn 30wt break in oil, Valvoline Racing oil (20w50) and Rotella ( 15w40 highest in zinc of the diesel oils) As these engines age their owners are going to start changing their own oil, Most have switched back to Castrol 20w50. As I understand that formula has changed to the low zinc for emissions. I'm running it in my engine as well. I'm now very concerned and would like to get this under control with an additive. Any Suggestions? Thanks in Advance Glenn Franco Too Many TR's ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Oct 31 12:49:05 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 14:49:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <00db01cc97fe$38a02b10$a9e08130$@com> References: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> <00db01cc97fe$38a02b10$a9e08130$@com> Message-ID: On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 1:52 PM, David Fidler wrote: > Glenn, there's a product called ZDDP, which you pour in when you change > your > oil. It's available from Moss. Also, a couple of oil companies still > manufacture oil with high zinc content. Valvoline VR-1 and Kendall GR-1 > (Called Penzoil in the US I think?) > The oil from the refinery in Pennsylvania that used to market as Kendall now sells that oil as Brad Penn. It is the same green color as the Kendall. It is also claimed to contain an adequate amount of ZDDP to protect our flat tappets. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Oct 31 13:32:01 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 20:32:01 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> References: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> Message-ID: Glenn, I'm not a mechanic, but mine said ZDDPlus was a mandatory additive since the zinc is gone out of Castrol. Your report surely proves this! Also I understand Brad Penn 20w50 is a good alternative as it has the required zinc. TRF is selling it. When I first heard of this, I also found that STP has some zinc, but being a private formula they won't confirm how much. Better than nothing. Sloane :) 69-Six > Hi All > > I have torn down 4 TR6 engines in the past 4 months all with wiped out cams. > The latest was a performance reground cam with low miles and 2 lobes > severely worn. > > I know this has been a topic/thread in the past but wondered what if any > Zinc Additives are out there. > > For the rebuilds, I used either Brad Penn 30wt break in oil, Valvoline > Racing oil (20w50) and Rotella ( 15w40 highest in zinc of the diesel oils) > > As these engines age their owners are going to start changing their own > oil, Most have switched back to Castrol 20w50. > As I understand that formula has changed to the low zinc for emissions. > I'm running it in my engine as well. > > I'm now very concerned and would like to get this under control with an > additive. > > Any Suggestions? > Thanks in Advance > Glenn Franco > Too Many TR's From murr32 at shaw.ca Mon Oct 31 14:33:01 2011 From: murr32 at shaw.ca (David Murray) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 15:33:01 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: References: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> Message-ID: <001b01cc9814$aa7f2950$ff7d7bf0$@ca> Here is another high zinc content alternative: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx Dave -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im sloane Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 2:32 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Zinc Additive. Glenn, I'm not a mechanic, but mine said ZDDPlus was a mandatory additive since the zinc is gone out of Castrol. Your report surely proves this! Also I understand Brad Penn 20w50 is a good alternative as it has the required zinc. TRF is selling it. When I first heard of this, I also found that STP has some zinc, but being a private formula they won't confirm how much. Better than nothing. Sloane :) 69-Six > Hi All > > I have torn down 4 TR6 engines in the past 4 months all with wiped out cams. > The latest was a performance reground cam with low miles and 2 lobes > severely worn. > > I know this has been a topic/thread in the past but wondered what if any > Zinc Additives are out there. > > For the rebuilds, I used either Brad Penn 30wt break in oil, Valvoline > Racing oil (20w50) and Rotella ( 15w40 highest in zinc of the diesel oils) > > As these engines age their owners are going to start changing their own > oil, Most have switched back to Castrol 20w50. > As I understand that formula has changed to the low zinc for emissions. > I'm running it in my engine as well. > > I'm now very concerned and would like to get this under control with an > additive. > > Any Suggestions? > Thanks in Advance > Glenn Franco > Too Many TR's ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/murr32 at shaw.ca From DJFidler at rogers.com Mon Oct 31 14:36:02 2011 From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:36:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <5611.2ffc44ba.3be06d27@aol.com> References: <5611.2ffc44ba.3be06d27@aol.com> Message-ID: <013501cc9815$17146710$453d3530$@com> Brad Penn is still sold under the Kendall GR-1 name in Canada, available from Crescent Oil in Hamilton, ON. David. From: REK46 at aol.com [mailto:REK46 at aol.com] Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 5:29 PM To: emanteno at comcast.net; DJFidler at rogers.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [Fot] [6pack] Zinc Additive. Its on ebay also...free ship on 5 to more bottles...or Google it and explore. Let us know if you find a MAX deal In a message dated 10/31/2011 4:26:01 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, emanteno at comcast.net writes: On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 1:52 PM, David Fidler wrote: > Glenn, there's a product called ZDDP, which you pour in when you change > your > oil. It's available from Moss. Also, a couple of oil companies still > manufacture oil with high zinc content. Valvoline VR-1 and Kendall GR-1 > (Called Penzoil in the US I think?) > The oil from the refinery in Pennsylvania that used to market as Kendall now sells that oil as Brad Penn. It is the same green color as the Kendall. It is also claimed to contain an adequate amount of ZDDP to protect our flat tappets. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL _______________________________________________ fot at autox.team.net http://www.fot-racing.com Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/rek46 at aol.com From murr32 at shaw.ca Mon Oct 31 15:10:23 2011 From: murr32 at shaw.ca (David Murray) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 16:10:23 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: References: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> Message-ID: <001f01cc9819$e2d0a270$a871e750$@ca> Here is another high zinc content alternative: http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/zrt.aspx Dave From jkorsak at cableone.net Mon Oct 31 15:51:38 2011 From: jkorsak at cableone.net (John Korsak) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 17:51:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <001b01cc9814$aa7f2950$ff7d7bf0$@ca> Message-ID: I have been using an additive called "Cam Shield" ( http://www.cam-shield.com/acatalog/index.html) for a couple of years. I just add it when changing my oil. I think works great. My oil seems to stay cleaner for a longer period of time in addition to adding wear protection. John K From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Mon Oct 31 16:22:18 2011 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 19:22:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer Message-ID: Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the ignition is turned off? I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em off when I park. I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with a, "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig 'em to turn off with the ignition, but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn themselves off after a couple minutes. Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Oct 31 16:38:00 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 18:38:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <013501cc9815$17146710$453d3530$@com> References: <5611.2ffc44ba.3be06d27@aol.com> <013501cc9815$17146710$453d3530$@com> Message-ID: On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 4:36 PM, David Fidler wrote: > Brad Penn is still sold under the Kendall GR-1 name in Canada, available > from Crescent Oil in Hamilton, ON. > According to the Brad Penn website, the Kendall name was sold to a 3rd party when the refinery was sold. Because of that, the oil from that refinery had to be re-named, and they came up with Brad Penn. Kendall GR-1 may still be available, but unless they are buying it from the company that owns Brad Penn, it isn't the same oil that it used to be. NFI http://www.penngrade1.com/History.aspx Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Oct 31 16:55:49 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 23:55:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer Message-ID: <226871481-1320105322-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-745782978-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry> Article for one in the last issue of the magazine or the one before Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: Douglas Morris Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer Sent: Oct 31, 2011 6:22 PM Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the ignition is turned off? I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em off when I park. I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with a, "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig 'em to turn off with the ignition, but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn themselves off after a couple minutes. Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From murr32 at shaw.ca Mon Oct 31 17:08:24 2011 From: murr32 at shaw.ca (David Murray) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 18:08:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002001cc982a$611e5d10$235b1730$@ca> You can get daytime running light headlight modules here in Canada for around $25; they operate the high beams at a reduced light output (50% I think) whenever the ignition is turned on. I suspect they are available at your local USA parts store also. I too got tired of begging for jump starts :) Dave -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Douglas Morris Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 5:22 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the ignition is turned off? I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em off when I park. I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with a, "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig 'em to turn off with the ignition, but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn themselves off after a couple minutes. Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Oct 31 17:10:06 2011 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 20:10:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> References: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> Message-ID: TRF sells an additive but I have not tried it. I use Brad Penn 20/50 which has adequate Zinc... I am paying around $5.50 a quart... John North On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 1:47 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > Hi All > > I have torn down 4 TR6 engines in the past 4 months all with wiped out cams. > The latest was a performance reground cam with low miles and 2 lobes > severely worn. > > I know this has been a topic/thread in the past but wondered what if any > Zinc Additives are out there. > > For the rebuilds, I used either Brad Penn 30wt break in oil, Valvoline > Racing oil (20w50) and Rotella ( 15w40 highest in zinc of the diesel oils) > > As these engines age their owners are going to start changing their own oil, > Most have switched back to Castrol 20w50. > As I understand that formula has changed to the low zinc for emissions. > I'm running it in my engine as well. > > I'm now very concerned and would like to get this under control with an > additive. > > Any Suggestions? > Thanks in Advance > Glenn Franco > Too Many TR's > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/johncnorth at gmail.com From djfidler at rogers.com Mon Oct 31 17:33:59 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 20:33:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I put an article in the latest issue of 6-PACK, shows how to install an off the shelf warning buzzer for about $15. Takes just a few minutes to install. Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Oct 31, 2011, at 7:22 PM, Douglas Morris wrote: > Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the > ignition is turned off? > I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em off > when I park. > I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with a, > "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." > > I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig > 'em to turn off with the ignition, > but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn themselves > off after a couple minutes. > > Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From jmitch at snet.net Mon Oct 31 19:24:30 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 31 Oct 2011 22:24:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4EAF585E.7020003@snet.net> I have a Daytime running light setup on my TR6, and intend to add your buzzer next, as I still forget to turn off the lights after using them at night. With the DRL's, the reduced strength high beams, stay on for 2 minutes after shutdown, so I still get people telling me my lights are on. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag On 10/31/2011 8:33 PM, David Fidler wrote: > I put an article in the latest issue of 6-PACK, shows how to install an off > the shelf warning buzzer for about $15. Takes just a few minutes to install. > > Best regards, > > David. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 31, 2011, at 7:22 PM, Douglas Morris wrote: > >> Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the >> ignition is turned off? >> I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em > off >> when I park. >> I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with > a, >> "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." >> >> I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig >> 'em to turn off with the ignition, >> but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn > themselves >> off after a couple minutes. >> >> Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jmitch at snet.net