From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Nov 1 06:50:05 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 09:50:05 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: <226871481-1320105322-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-745782978-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry> References: <226871481-1320105322-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-745782978-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry> Message-ID: Hi - yes, you can do this. You need a "forklist upgrade"... buy a Miata. :-0 rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 lfm614 at aol.com wrote: > Article for one in the last issue of the magazine or the one before > > Lou > 72 Pimento > ------Original Message------ > From: Douglas Morris > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: TR-6 list > Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer > Sent: Oct 31, 2011 6:22 PM > > Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the > ignition is turned off? > I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em off > when I park. > I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with a, > "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." > > I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig > 'em to turn off with the ignition, > but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn themselves > off after a couple minutes. > > Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lang at isis.mit.edu From gaf3 at charter.net Tue Nov 1 06:54:57 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 09:54:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Oil Supplement Message-ID: <4EAFFA31.4050505@charter.net> Thanks to all for the insight on Zinc oil additives. The reason I have been looking for an additive or supplement is that I have a supply of Castrol 20w50 that I would like to use up. I also found that GM's OES is still available and Summit Racing has it for ~$17 a bottle. Bardall and Lucas also has a supplement for ~ $15 a bottle. Eldebrock has some on Jegs site. We did use Valvoline VR1 (?) 20w50 in one of the engines and the latest is getting 30w Brad Penn. Brad Penn is hard to find around here. I will start using Mobil 1 15w50 or Rotella 15w40 in my own engines after the break in period. Thanks Glenn Franco Too Many TR's From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Nov 1 08:02:17 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 1 Nov 2011 11:02:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: References: <226871481-1320105322-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-745782978-@b11.c20.bise6.blackberry> Message-ID: On Tue, 1 Nov 2011, Robert M. Lang wrote: > Hi - yes, you can do this. You need a "forklist upgrade"... buy a Miata. Of course I meant forkLIFT upgrade. > :-0 > > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > Former NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > > > On Mon, 31 Oct 2011 lfm614 at aol.com wrote: > >> Article for one in the last issue of the magazine or the one before >> >> Lou >> 72 Pimento >> ------Original Message------ >> From: Douglas Morris >> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net >> To: TR-6 list >> Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer >> Sent: Oct 31, 2011 6:22 PM >> >> Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the >> ignition is turned off? >> I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em >> off >> when I park. >> I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with >> a, >> "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." >> >> I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig >> 'em to turn off with the ignition, >> but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn >> themselves >> off after a couple minutes. >> >> Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lang at isis.mit.edu > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lang at isis.mit.edu From tedtsimx at bright.net Tue Nov 1 11:04:14 2011 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Tue, 01 Nov 2011 13:04:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> References: <4EAEDF27.4010807@charter.net> Message-ID: <4EB0349E.5080008@bright.net> Glenn, the first 30 seconds and then the first 5 minutes of new engine (or cam) start up are the critical cam life determining time. Inadequate or poor quality cam lube, trying to build oil pressure by turning with the starter rather than fully pressurizing he system first, high ratio rocker arms and excessive valve spring pressure all will wipe cam lobes. The other factor is inital run-in time and procedure. Three years ago we spent almost a year researching oils and zinc issue. We spoke with Comp Cams, Joe Gibbs, Mobil, Brad Penn and others.Finally settled on Brad Penn. They have a good selection of grades plus they have break-in oil. We build a lot of engines and this has worked for us. Commercial content - Brad Penn break-in oil is $6/qt. All other weights are $5/qt Ted On 10/31/2011 12:47 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > Hi All > > I have torn down 4 TR6 engines in the past 4 months all with wiped out > cams. > The latest was a performance reground cam with low miles and 2 lobes > severely worn. > > I know this has been a topic/thread in the past but wondered what if > any Zinc Additives are out there. > > For the rebuilds, I used either Brad Penn 30wt break in oil, Valvoline > Racing oil (20w50) and Rotella ( 15w40 highest in zinc of the diesel > oils) > > As these engines age their owners are going to start changing their > own oil, Most have switched back to Castrol 20w50. > As I understand that formula has changed to the low zinc for emissions. > I'm running it in my engine as well. > > I'm now very concerned and would like to get this under control with > an additive. > > Any Suggestions? > Thanks in Advance > Glenn Franco > Too Many TR's > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tedtsimx at bright.net > > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Nov 2 06:57:54 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 09:57:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Dash and Vance Navarotte Message-ID: List: I need a new dash for the TR250 and see the choices appear to be solid walnut versus mahogany veneer (I don't think the walnut veneer is available for the 250). Does anyone have experience with these that could help guide my decision? Also, I am still trying to contact Vance Navarotte if anyone has an email address. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From auprichard at uprichard.net Wed Nov 2 08:26:08 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 11:26:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Dash and Vance Navarotte - follow-up In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I have been told the roadster factory offers a walnut veneer in matte and gloss finishes. Again, anyone with experience please feel free to share their thoughts on the subject. Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 9:58 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Dash and Vance Navarotte List: I need a new dash for the TR250 and see the choices appear to be solid walnut versus mahogany veneer (I don't think the walnut veneer is available for the 250). Does anyone have experience with these that could help guide my decision? Also, I am still trying to contact Vance Navarotte if anyone has an email address. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From j.honor at comcast.net Wed Nov 2 08:52:30 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 10:52:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Dash and Vance Navarotte In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Check wit Randy at Prestige Autowood a true artist for dashboards Regarfs Joe Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone On Nov 2, 2011, at 8:57 AM, "Andrew Uprichard" wrote: > List: > > > > I need a new dash for the TR250 and see the choices appear to be solid > walnut versus mahogany veneer (I don't think the walnut veneer is available > for the 250). Does anyone have experience with these that could help guide > my decision? > > > > Also, I am still trying to contact Vance Navarotte if anyone has an email > address. Thanks! > > Andrew Uprichard > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Wed Nov 2 10:11:33 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 13:11:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: References: <5611.2ffc44ba.3be06d27@aol.com> <013501cc9815$17146710$453d3530$@com>, Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01574178FF05@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Does anyone know what the correlation is between cam wear and the zinc additive? I do not remember ever having heard of this. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Irv Korey [emanteno at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 7:38 PM To: DJFidler at rogers.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net; REK46 at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [Fot] Zinc Additive. On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 4:36 PM, David Fidler wrote: > Brad Penn is still sold under the Kendall GR-1 name in Canada, available > from Crescent Oil in Hamilton, ON. > According to the Brad Penn website, the Kendall name was sold to a 3rd party when the refinery was sold. Because of that, the oil from that refinery had to be re-named, and they came up with Brad Penn. Kendall GR-1 may still be available, but unless they are buying it from the company that owns Brad Penn, it isn't the same oil that it used to be. NFI http://www.penngrade1.com/History.aspx Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Nov 2 12:55:18 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 2 Nov 2011 15:55:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Zinc Additive. In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01574178FF05@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> References: <5611.2ffc44ba.3be06d27@aol.com> <013501cc9815$17146710$453d3530$@com>, <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01574178FF05@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: Google "ZDDP" You'll get so much information, your head will explode. Executive summary: yes, there is a correlation. The summary of the correlation is that without ZDDP in break-in, cam failure is certain. THere may be supporting data that without ZDDP during normal use that failure probable - all things considered. But there are other factors for excessive cam wear and you need to account for ALL of them. Material surface hardness, proper materials in the first place, proper break-in, proper valve spring pressure, proper rocker geometry and so forth. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- On Wed, 2 Nov 2011, Ruffner, James A *HS wrote: > Does anyone know what the correlation is between cam wear and the zinc > additive? I do not remember ever having heard of this. > ________________________________________ > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Irv Korey [emanteno at comcast.net] > Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 7:38 PM > To: DJFidler at rogers.com > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net; REK46 at aol.com; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] [Fot] Zinc Additive. > > On Mon, Oct 31, 2011 at 4:36 PM, David Fidler wrote: > >> Brad Penn is still sold under the Kendall GR-1 name in Canada, available >> from Crescent Oil in Hamilton, ON. >> > > > According to the Brad Penn website, the Kendall name was sold to a 3rd > party when the refinery was sold. Because of that, the oil from that > refinery had to be > re-named, and they came up with Brad Penn. Kendall GR-1 may still be > available, but unless they are buying it from the company that > owns Brad Penn, it isn't the same oil that it used to be. NFI > > http://www.penngrade1.com/History.aspx > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lang at isis.mit.edu From Jimandruthhome at aol.com Thu Nov 3 17:02:23 2011 From: Jimandruthhome at aol.com (Jimandruthhome at aol.com) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:02:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] re wodd dash replacements Message-ID: Don't post much, but still read the digest. After buying a 71 TR6, total rat, in 1982 and driving it into the ground, I restored it for myself in my spare time. Pics of it appeared in the 6 pack mag in 1987, I think. Still have it, every time I take it in for the annual inspection some folks wonder what kind of new car it is. I guess that just means I'm really old. Anyway, the last car I restored for a customer was an Austin Healey 3000 Mk III. I got the burled dash from Prestige. It was gorgeous, fit perfectly, and passed muster at both of the big Austin Healey clubs' concours. If you know those guys, that's a serious endorsement. They're nuts! (But in a good way.) They know what the markings on the head of every bolt should be (yes there are many, and not just grade marks). That was a while ago, but given more recent endorsements I've seen on this list, Prestige is definitely worth a serious look if you're ;looking for quality. NFI Jim Knight From aljlthomson at charter.net Thu Nov 3 17:10:41 2011 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Thu, 3 Nov 2011 20:10:41 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Dash and Vance Navarotte In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801cc9a86$306321c0$91296540$@charter.net> We have a vendor in Connecticut that makes fantastic dashboards. Gary Cimino's website is listed below. http://www.cgwoodcraft.com/vintage.html Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Uprichard Sent: Wednesday, November 02, 2011 9:58 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Dash and Vance Navarotte List: I need a new dash for the TR250 and see the choices appear to be solid walnut versus mahogany veneer (I don't think the walnut veneer is available for the 250). Does anyone have experience with these that could help guide my decision? Also, I am still trying to contact Vance Navarotte if anyone has an email address. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net From trdoctor at aol.com Thu Nov 3 22:14:45 2011 From: trdoctor at aol.com (Sam Clark) Date: Fri, 4 Nov 2011 00:14:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake Caliper Clearance Message-ID: <2BBD413D-F9B1-4BF1-A58B-94BF9F7DE822@aol.com> Tonight I was replacing my front brake pads to a higher performance version in preparation for a track day and encountered problems with the RH side. I attempted to do this in situ. LH side went well with the shims and pads going in ok. LH side has been problematic. The outer pad falls in but the inner one won't go in. Took the caliper off and manually pushed the pistons in. That didn't help. Upon closer inspection, the caliper is not centered with the rotor. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I shim the caliper to gain clearance? It needs to be moved to the center of the car. This is on a '72 TR6. Should I just have a brake shop take off .010 of the pad and be done with it? TIA Sam Clark From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Nov 4 17:02:11 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 05 Nov 2011 00:02:11 GMT Subject: [6pack] Brake Caliper Clearance Message-ID: Sam---You may have already done some of these, but I'll throw them in anyway... Take both pads in hand and measure their thickness, to be sure the "fat one" isn't out of spec. (They should both be the same). If one happens to be thicker, put it on the side that "falls in". Or, you might be able to gain some centering by putting an old pad on the side that won't accept the new one. Pump up the brakes to see if you can now replace the thin pad with the new one. You might have shifted the caliper in the process. Be sure the piston goes all the way back into the caliper. Or far enough so that this is not the reason the pad won't go in. See if you can rock the rotor, top to bottom on this side. (Wheel bearings loose)? I don't think shaving the fat pad would cause any problems, but I'd still want to know why this would be necessary. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Sam Clark Sent: Thursday, November 3, 2011 10:14 PM To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Brake Caliper Clearance Tonight I was replacing my front brake pads to a higher performance version in preparation for a track day and encountered problems with the RH side. I attempted to do this in situ. LH side went well with the shims and pads going in ok. LH side has been problematic. The outer pad falls in but the inner one won't go in. Took the caliper off and manually pushed the pistons in. That didn't help. Upon closer inspection, the caliper is not centered with the rotor. Has anyone else had this problem? Should I shim the caliper to gain clearance? It needs to be moved to the center of the car. This is on a '72 TR6. Should I just have a brake shop take off .010 of the pad and be done with it? TIA Sam Clark ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Sat Nov 5 19:37:39 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 22:37:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: <4EAF585E.7020003@snet.net> References: , <4EAF585E.7020003@snet.net> Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01574178FF18@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> How do I access the "6-Pack" info as referenced in this email? Thanks ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell [jmitch at snet.net] Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 10:24 PM To: David Fidler Cc: Douglas Morris; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Headlight Timer I have a Daytime running light setup on my TR6, and intend to add your buzzer next, as I still forget to turn off the lights after using them at night. With the DRL's, the reduced strength high beams, stay on for 2 minutes after shutdown, so I still get people telling me my lights are on. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag On 10/31/2011 8:33 PM, David Fidler wrote: > I put an article in the latest issue of 6-PACK, shows how to install an off > the shelf warning buzzer for about $15. Takes just a few minutes to install. > > Best regards, > > David. > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 31, 2011, at 7:22 PM, Douglas Morris wrote: > >> Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the >> ignition is turned off? >> I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em > off >> when I park. >> I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with > a, >> "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." >> >> I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig >> 'em to turn off with the ignition, >> but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn > themselves >> off after a couple minutes. >> >> Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jmitch at snet.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From djfidler at rogers.com Sat Nov 5 19:51:22 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Sat, 5 Nov 2011 22:51:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01574178FF18@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> References: <4EAF585E.7020003@snet.net> <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01574178FF18@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: Are you a 6-pack (TR6/250 Club of America) member? The magazine is only available to members. I can send you a digital copy, but I'm not sure if I can send it to this list? Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 5, 2011, at 10:37 PM, "Ruffner, James A *HS" wrote: > How do I access the "6-Pack" info as referenced in this email? > > Thanks > ________________________________________ > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell [jmitch at snet.net] > Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 10:24 PM > To: David Fidler > Cc: Douglas Morris; 6pack > Subject: Re: [6pack] Headlight Timer > > I have a Daytime running light setup on my TR6, and intend to add your > buzzer next, as I still forget to turn off the lights after using them > at night. With the DRL's, the reduced strength high beams, stay on for 2 > minutes after shutdown, so I still get people telling me my lights are > on. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag > > On 10/31/2011 8:33 PM, David Fidler wrote: >> I put an article in the latest issue of 6-PACK, shows how to install an off >> the shelf warning buzzer for about $15. Takes just a few minutes to install. >> >> Best regards, >> >> David. >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >> On Oct 31, 2011, at 7:22 PM, Douglas Morris wrote: >> >>> Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the >>> ignition is turned off? >>> I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em >> off >>> when I park. >>> I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with >> a, >>> "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." >>> >>> I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply rig >>> 'em to turn off with the ignition, >>> but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn >> themselves >>> off after a couple minutes. >>> >>> Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? >>> >>> ________________________________________ >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jmitch at snet.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From djfidler at rogers.com Sun Nov 6 06:32:21 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Sun, 6 Nov 2011 08:32:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Headlight Timer In-Reply-To: <001501cc9c43$69487580$6401a8c0@willscomputer> References: <4EAF585E.7020003@snet.net> <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01574178FF18@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> <001501cc9c43$69487580$6401a8c0@willscomputer> Message-ID: <99FE6605-5DDF-4AA2-993C-236B72FD9A80@rogers.com> Ed, classic cars are exempt from this requirement, at least they are in Ontario, might be different in SK. Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 6, 2011, at 1:17 AM, "bratt" wrote: > James: > > In Canada imported cars are required to add DRL to the car before inspection. Usually this is done at Canadian Tire, since Canadian Tire is where the inspection takes place. The modules used are made by Hamsar. > > There are several differtc DRL configurations, which you car see on Hamsar's website: > > http://www.hamsar.com/Content/EN/Products_Browse.aspx?ProductType=Electronics > > Hamsar's Canadian and US address's are found here: > > http://www.hamsar.com/Content/EN/Contact_Numbers.aspx > > Hope this answers your query. > > Ed Bratt > Regina, Saskatchewan > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ruffner, James A *HS" > To: "John Mitchell" ; "David Fidler" > Cc: "Douglas Morris" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Saturday, November 05, 2011 8:37 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Headlight Timer > > >> How do I access the "6-Pack" info as referenced in this email? >> >> Thanks >> ________________________________________ >> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of >> John Mitchell [jmitch at snet.net] >> Sent: Monday, October 31, 2011 10:24 PM >> To: David Fidler >> Cc: Douglas Morris; 6pack >> Subject: Re: [6pack] Headlight Timer >> >> I have a Daytime running light setup on my TR6, and intend to add your >> buzzer next, as I still forget to turn off the lights after using them >> at night. With the DRL's, the reduced strength high beams, stay on for 2 >> minutes after shutdown, so I still get people telling me my lights are >> on. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag >> >> On 10/31/2011 8:33 PM, David Fidler wrote: >>> I put an article in the latest issue of 6-PACK, shows how to install an off >>> the shelf warning buzzer for about $15. Takes just a few minutes to >> install. >>> >>> Best regards, >>> >>> David. >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>> On Oct 31, 2011, at 7:22 PM, Douglas Morris wrote: >>> >>>> Has anybody rigged a timer to turn headlights off a minute or so after the >>>> ignition is turned off? >>>> I usually drive with my headlamps burning, but I often forget to turn 'em >>> off >>>> when I park. >>>> I'm tired of responding to people pointing out that my lights are on with >>> a, >>>> "Oh, they'll go off in a couple' hours." >>>> >>>> I'm just about to install a relayed headlamp circuit, so I could simply >> rig >>>> 'em to turn off with the ignition, >>>> but there're uses for 'em with the ignition off ... if they'd turn >>> themselves >>>> off after a couple minutes. >>>> >>>> Anybody ever install an off-the shelf module for this? >>>> >>>> ________________________________________ >>>> >>>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>>> >>>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com >>> >>> ________________________________________ >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jmitch at snet.net >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> Version: 2012.0.1869 / Virus Database: 2092/4599 - Release Date: 11/05/11 From dc_bruin at hotmail.com Mon Nov 7 18:27:02 2011 From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 17:27:02 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Final Throws Message-ID: I've just about finished my soft top install and so far I'm pleased with the results. My last little hurdle is installing the weather stripping across the front. I was planning just to slide it in from one end and feed it through the three channel parts, but it's way too tight for that. Does anyone have a trick for installing this piece that they could share? Thanks, Dwayne From djfidler at rogers.com Mon Nov 7 21:17:40 2011 From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 23:17:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Final Throws In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dwayne, It will NOT slide. The only way to get it in is to put it in position, tuck the back edge of T into the channel in the center of the header rail and, using a flat blade screwdriver slowly work your way out to the end pushing the front edge of the T into the slot. Then go out to the other end. This will take about 45 mins all told, and you'll need patience. I wrote a 2 part article about installing soft tops in 6-PACK magazine, this step is described in part two in the summer 2010 issue, which is available in the member's area at www.6-PACK.org. Best regards, David. Sent from my iPhone On Nov 7, 2011, at 8:27 PM, Dwayne Cooper wrote: > I've just about finished my soft top install and so far I'm pleased with the > results. My last little hurdle is installing the weather stripping across the > front. I was planning just to slide it in from one end and feed it through > the three channel parts, but it's way too tight for that. Does anyone have a > trick for installing this piece that they could share? > > Thanks, > > Dwayne > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From dc_bruin at hotmail.com Wed Nov 9 20:55:56 2011 From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper) Date: Wed, 9 Nov 2011 19:55:56 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Final Throws In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: David and Others: Thanks for the tip1 -- I'll play some soothing music and take my time (patience is not my strong point)! Thanks, Dwayne > From: djfidler at rogers.com > Date: Mon, 7 Nov 2011 23:17:40 -0500 > To: dc.bruin at gmail.com > CC: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Final Throws > > Dwayne, > > It will NOT slide. The only way to get it in is to put it in position, tuck > the back edge of T into the channel in the center of the header rail and, > using a flat blade screwdriver slowly work your way out to the end pushing the > front edge of the T into the slot. Then go out to the other end. This will > take about 45 mins all told, and you'll need patience. > > I wrote a 2 part article about installing soft tops in 6-PACK magazine, this > step is described in part two in the summer 2010 issue, which is available in > the member's area at www.6-PACK.org. > > Best regards, > > David. > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dc_bruin at hotmail.com From wcwellbaum at cox.net Fri Nov 11 07:27:11 2011 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 06:27:11 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Gearbox lubricant-TR-6 Message-ID: <426DCE2EF9544EF5ACD173B58BCB8DB2@office> I almost dread bringing up this question but here goes: I'm having the TR-6 gearbox w/overdrive serviced tomorrow (drain and refill) and am curious as to the latest concensus of what type of oil to use. I see Valvoline 20w/50 R recommended often--but am looking for the most current thinking. Any recommendations from high mileage owners? Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org From DJFidler at rogers.com Fri Nov 11 07:56:03 2011 From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 09:56:03 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gearbox lubricant-TR-6 In-Reply-To: <426DCE2EF9544EF5ACD173B58BCB8DB2@office> References: <426DCE2EF9544EF5ACD173B58BCB8DB2@office> Message-ID: <01ca01cca082$091d4e90$1b57ebb0$@com> Hi Bill, 30W non-detergent, by far the best for a OD box. See second item down on this page: http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11 John Esposito really knows what he's talking about. David. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 9:27 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Gearbox lubricant-TR-6 I almost dread bringing up this question but here goes: I'm having the TR-6 gearbox w/overdrive serviced tomorrow (drain and refill) and am curious as to the latest concensus of what type of oil to use. I see Valvoline 20w/50 R recommended often--but am looking for the most current thinking. Any recommendations from high mileage owners? Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com From brian at asmoothmove.biz Fri Nov 11 08:40:31 2011 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 09:40:31 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Gearbox lubricant-TR-6 In-Reply-To: <01ca01cca082$091d4e90$1b57ebb0$@com> References: <426DCE2EF9544EF5ACD173B58BCB8DB2@office> <01ca01cca082$091d4e90$1b57ebb0$@com> Message-ID: <004201cca088$3fcfc840$bf6f58c0$@biz> Agree. The stick shifting seems to be smoother with the 30W vs. gear lube, although I don't notice any difference when shifting in out of overdrive. Brian Alwin 1972 TR6 A-type OD -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Fidler Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 8:56 AM To: 'Bill Wellbaum'; '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Gearbox lubricant-TR-6 Hi Bill, 30W non-detergent, by far the best for a OD box. See second item down on this page: http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11 John Esposito really knows what he's talking about. David. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum Sent: Friday, November 11, 2011 9:27 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Gearbox lubricant-TR-6 I almost dread bringing up this question but here goes: I'm having the TR-6 gearbox w/overdrive serviced tomorrow (drain and refill) and am curious as to the latest concensus of what type of oil to use. I see Valvoline 20w/50 R recommended often--but am looking for the most current thinking. Any recommendations from high mileage owners? Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/brian at asmoothmove.biz From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Fri Nov 11 13:29:05 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 12:29:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] od gearbox lube Message-ID: <1321043345.27094.YahooMailClassic@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Redline mt90 works very nicely in my A type. very smooth shifts and strong od engagement Bruce Simms From forzion7 at gmail.com Fri Nov 11 15:12:54 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Fri, 11 Nov 2011 17:12:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gearbox lubricant-TR-6 In-Reply-To: <426DCE2EF9544EF5ACD173B58BCB8DB2@office> References: <426DCE2EF9544EF5ACD173B58BCB8DB2@office> Message-ID: I just switched to Redline's MT-90. Seems fine so far! Dave '74 Six w/A-type OD + TBI On Fri, Nov 11, 2011 at 9:27 AM, Bill Wellbaum wrote: > I almost dread bringing up this question but here goes: I'm having the > TR-6 > gearbox w/overdrive serviced tomorrow (drain and refill) and am curious as > to > the latest concensus of what type of oil to use. I see Valvoline 20w/50 R > recommended often--but am looking for the most current thinking. Any > recommendations from high mileage owners? > > Bill Wellbaum > British Auto Club of Las Vegas > baclv.org > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com From john.a.mcdonald at intel.com Sat Nov 12 15:31:00 2011 From: john.a.mcdonald at intel.com (McDonald, John A) Date: Sat, 12 Nov 2011 22:31:00 +0000 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 129 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <86294906A387DE4889F8587BD200D6AA16E9708E@ORSMSX101.amr.corp.intel.com> Redline oils seem to be the fluid of choice for BMW's and many other Makes of car. It will make the shifting much smoother, and will 'rehab' worn syncros somewhat. It's really a great product! I have Redline MTL in both my 83 BMW's transmissions, and Mt90 in the rear differential- it's for open and LSD's both. Hope this helps... From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sun Nov 13 07:32:56 2011 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 06:32:56 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster rebuild Message-ID: <2E4C5702461F4284B8812B0F13134D9B@office> Who do the listers use to rebuild the Brake Booster unit on the TR-6? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas baclv.org From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Nov 13 08:16:51 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 10:16:51 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster rebuild In-Reply-To: <2E4C5702461F4284B8812B0F13134D9B@office> References: <2E4C5702461F4284B8812B0F13134D9B@office> Message-ID: <8CE702E67C8FE48-122C-68781@webmail-m171.sysops.aol.com> Ted Schumacher has a rebuilding service. -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wellbaum To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, Nov 13, 2011 8:33 am Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster rebuild Who do the listers use to rebuild the Brake Booster unit on the TR-6? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas baclv.org ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Nov 13 12:29:01 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 13:29:01 -0600 Subject: [6pack] starting issue Message-ID: car has pertronix, lots of performance upgrades including triple carbs, etc in the last couple of months I had rough running problems, manually turned the dizzy to see if that helped (it didn't). may not have put it back exactly right. some of the plugs were black. replaced them, and on advice from my mechanic who had just worked on the car for other issues (suspension) pulled the carbs and replaced the gaskets on the deceleration valves. put them all back and balanced them. drove for about 30 minutes yesterday, turned it off, turned it back on and off a couple times quickly, then off for about 20 minutes, then drove for 2+ hours. had lunch, and drove home about 30 minutes. seemed to run well, except sometimes the idel would be up about 2k, sometimes down in the low teens. waited an hour? and the car was a little hard to start. didn't run that well. went to the gas station, it wouldn't start. waited a few more minutes and it started. drove home. car was not running well. this morning I advanced the timing just a smidge and it started immediately. drove about 15 minutes, seemed ok except when I was almost home the idle dropped down to zero, and it restarted. put it back in the garage a few minutes later and shut it down. waited about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. sound like a coil? its an msd maybe 2 years old. I thought I'd swap out the coil and see. any other ideas? From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Nov 13 12:43:31 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:43:31 GMT Subject: [6pack] starting issue Message-ID: Oliver---If you're wondering if it's "the coil" that is causing the no-start, pull off the coil wire where it plugs into the center of the distributor cap. Hold the wire close to the valve cover and turn the ign. key to start position. If sparks jump continuously, it's not the coil. Erratic idle speeds could be from sticking throttle linkage, or sticking distributor advance weights, or carb bi-pass valves. Dick -----Original Message----- From: oliver Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 11:29 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] starting issue car has pertronix, lots of performance upgrades including triple carbs, etc in the last couple of months I had rough running problems, manually turned the dizzy to see if that helped (it didn't). may not have put it back exactly right. some of the plugs were black. replaced them, and on advice from my mechanic who had just worked on the car for other issues (suspension) pulled the carbs and replaced the gaskets on the deceleration valves. put them all back and balanced them. drove for about 30 minutes yesterday, turned it off, turned it back on and off a couple times quickly, then off for about 20 minutes, then drove for 2+ hours. had lunch, and drove home about 30 minutes. seemed to run well, except sometimes the idel would be up about 2k, sometimes down in the low teens. waited an hour? and the car was a little hard to start. didn't run that well. went to the gas station, it wouldn't start. waited a few more minutes and it started. drove home. car was not running well. this morning I advanced the timing just a smidge and it started immediately. drove about 15 minutes, seemed ok except when I was almost home the idle dropped down to zero, and it restarted. put it back in the garage a few minutes later and shut it down. waited about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. sound like a coil? its an msd maybe 2 years old. I thought I'd swap out the coil and see. any other ideas? ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From lfm614 at aol.com Sun Nov 13 14:05:25 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 21:05:25 +0000 Subject: [6pack] starting issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <633497369-1321218274-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-949334165-@b17.c20.bise6.blackberry> If the plugs are black I would suspect rich mixture or burning oil. I would try to adjust mixture for the carb feeding the black plugs, clean the plugs and rebalance the carbs. Easy way to check timing is with a vacuum gauge on the manifold side. 16-18 in Hg seems to be the sweet spot. You can adjust to that by turning the dizzy a bit. These cars are pretty simple but the more "upgrades" you add the more complicated you make them. I'm still running stock coil, points and 2 ZS, car runs fine. Idle is at 800 and smooth. The only upgrade is a vacuum gauge under the dash to make timing between different grades of gas easier. Lou 72 Pimento -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Sun, 13 Nov 2011 19:43:31 To: oliver; Triumph 6 Pack<6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] starting issue Oliver---If you're wondering if it's "the coil" that is causing the no-start, pull off the coil wire where it plugs into the center of the distributor cap. Hold the wire close to the valve cover and turn the ign. key to start position. If sparks jump continuously, it's not the coil. Erratic idle speeds could be from sticking throttle linkage, or sticking distributor advance weights, or carb bi-pass valves. Dick -----Original Message----- From: oliver Sent: Sunday, November 13, 2011 11:29 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] starting issue car has pertronix, lots of performance upgrades including triple carbs, etc in the last couple of months I had rough running problems, manually turned the dizzy to see if that helped (it didn't). may not have put it back exactly right. some of the plugs were black. replaced them, and on advice from my mechanic who had just worked on the car for other issues (suspension) pulled the carbs and replaced the gaskets on the deceleration valves. put them all back and balanced them. drove for about 30 minutes yesterday, turned it off, turned it back on and off a couple times quickly, then off for about 20 minutes, then drove for 2+ hours. had lunch, and drove home about 30 minutes. seemed to run well, except sometimes the idel would be up about 2k, sometimes down in the low teens. waited an hour? and the car was a little hard to start. didn't run that well. went to the gas station, it wouldn't start. waited a few more minutes and it started. drove home. car was not running well. this morning I advanced the timing just a smidge and it started immediately. drove about 15 minutes, seemed ok except when I was almost home the idle dropped down to zero, and it restarted. put it back in the garage a few minutes later and shut it down. waited about 5 minutes and it wouldn't start. sound like a coil? its an msd maybe 2 years old. I thought I'd swap out the coil and see. any other ideas? ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From stubeatty at aol.com Mon Nov 14 00:41:09 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 02:41:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <8CE70B7E8FCAD56-174C-4424A@webmail-d055.sysops.aol.com> Ito?=s real treatment.. http://hartig-henstorf.de/p.google.php?uqjgoogleId=04me2 From wilhit100 at yahoo.com Mon Nov 14 06:28:58 2011 From: wilhit100 at yahoo.com (Adam Wilhite) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 05:28:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 129 In-Reply-To: <86294906A387DE4889F8587BD200D6AA16E9708E@ORSMSX101.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <86294906A387DE4889F8587BD200D6AA16E9708E@ORSMSX101.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <1321277338.51891.YahooMailNeo@web65407.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Being the owner of an e36 m3 and a e39 m5..I would not put any of their products in my car! The proper lubricants need to be put in these cars, and redline does not make them. ________________________________ From: "McDonald, John A" To: "'6pack at autox.team.net'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, November 12, 2011 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 129 Redline oils seem to be the fluid of choice for BMW's and many other Makes of car. It will make the shifting much smoother, and will 'rehab' worn syncros somewhat. It's really a great product! I have Redline MTL in both my 83 BMW's transmissions, and Mt90 in the rear differential- it's for open and LSD's both. Hope this helps... ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wilhit100 at yahoo.com From wcwellbaum at cox.net Mon Nov 14 06:49:00 2011 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 05:49:00 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster Message-ID: <969536A4546A431A8A47EA9647687460@office> Time to replace the brake booster. Shop manual says to drain the reservoir and remove the master cylinder--which means on reassembly you have to bleed the brakes. Is it possible to remove/replace the booster without completely disconnecting the reservoir/master cylinder from the hydraulic lines first? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Nov 14 07:05:19 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 14:05:19 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster Message-ID: <783873209-1321279469-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-287949903-@b17.c20.bise6.blackberry> Tough without damaging the steel lines. ------Original Message------ From: Bill Wellbaum Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster Sent: Nov 14, 2011 7:49 AM Time to replace the brake booster. Shop manual says to drain the reservoir and remove the master cylinder--which means on reassembly you have to bleed the brakes. Is it possible to remove/replace the booster without completely disconnecting the reservoir/master cylinder from the hydraulic lines first? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Nov 14 08:33:55 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 10:33:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] starting issue In-Reply-To: <633497369-1321218274-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-949334165-@b17.c20.bise6.blackberry> References: <633497369-1321218274-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-949334165-@b17.c20.bise6.blackberry> Message-ID: Hi, I think Dick's suggestions are best. A weak spark can make it look like the car is too rich. I see this all the time. Something to think about - carbs can't just go completely out of adjustment unless something is broken or some wanker starts playing with them. Yes, they can go a little out of adjustment, but a tiny idle screw adjustment does not translate to erratic behavior. It just doesn't work that way. And to repeat my mantra: 90% of all carb problems are electrical in nature. Check the spark first and then work from there. regards, rml p.s. trust me, I'm a wanker too as I've done more than my share of stupid carbs tricks in the past. :-) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Nov 14 12:36:03 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 19:36:03 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster Message-ID: Bill---I have removed and replaced the MC without bleeding the brakes. This requires that some thought is necessary so that little, if any, fluid is lost in the lines when disconnecting the lines at the MC. Same when reconnecting them. Have rags under to catch inevitable drips. Fingers ready to plug each threaded connection at the MC, in turn. Or, if you happen to have a spare MC handy, you can have the right size thread plugs ready to place in body of the MC that you are about to disconnect. Plastic tube plugs on hand to slip over the lines. (Auto parts stores have packs of various sizes) The worse that can happen if you are not successful, is you get to bleed the brake system. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Bill Wellbaum Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 5:49 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster Time to replace the brake booster. Shop manual says to drain the reservoir and remove the master cylinder--which means on reassembly you have to bleed the brakes. Is it possible to remove/replace the booster without completely disconnecting the reservoir/master cylinder from the hydraulic lines first? Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From sutherlandha at aol.com Mon Nov 14 13:20:43 2011 From: sutherlandha at aol.com (Hugh Sutherland) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 15:20:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears Message-ID: <8CE71220520DA74-8D4-51F64@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com> Long time on the list, and this is my first post. I have a 76 TR6 that is experiencing shifting issues. It is almost like the clutch is not fully engaging when I push the pedal. Once the car is moving, the shifting is fine and it shifts from 2-3, 3-4 smoothly. The problem is only from starting from a dead stop. When I sit at a light with the clutch in, I can feel the car moving slightly. It there a possibility the master cylinder is low on fluid? Thanks, Hugh Alexandria VA From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Mon Nov 14 14:40:27 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Mon, 14 Nov 2011 16:40:27 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears In-Reply-To: <8CE71220520DA74-8D4-51F64@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE71220520DA74-8D4-51F64@Webmail-m119.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B015742DEB4D9@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> First, check the master cylinder level, then bleed the system. If that does not fix it, then you likely have a bad master and/or slave cylinder. Don't drive the car until you do these, because in forcing it into first, you are putting a lot of stress on the 1st/2nd shift fork, and even though it seems to shift "smoothly" in the other gears, you are actually putting stress on those shift forks. And an even more, you can be putting extra wear on the dog teeth. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hugh Sutherland [sutherlandha at aol.com] Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 3:20 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears Long time on the list, and this is my first post. I have a 76 TR6 that is experiencing shifting issues. It is almost like the clutch is not fully engaging when I push the pedal. Once the car is moving, the shifting is fine and it shifts from 2-3, 3-4 smoothly. The problem is only from starting from a dead stop. When I sit at a light with the clutch in, I can feel the car moving slightly. It there a possibility the master cylinder is low on fluid? Thanks, Hugh Alexandria VA ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Nov 15 23:16:19 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 06:16:19 GMT Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears Message-ID: Hugh---Let's do the easy things first. That being to take off the cap on the Clutch Master Cylinder to check the fluid level. If it is not more than and inch down from the top, no air should've gotten into the line to the Slave Cylinder. (Top it off anyway, with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid). If the level was so low as to permit air entry into the line to the SC, then bleed the line and SC of air. (Check the repair manual if you haven't done this before.) If the fluid level was OK, the next thing to do is to see how much play is in the clutch pedal linkage down in the foot well. (Pedal box, in English speak) Excess play here causes a short stroke at the SC. Outward movement of the SC pushrod when depressing the clutch pedal should be close to 1/2 inch. This can be checked with an assistant working the pedal, with the car off the floor for easier measurement. If this stroke is satisfactory, the problem could be a broken fork pin. To check the fork pin it is necessary to remove the bellhousing. Write back if more instructions are needed. This partial clutch disengagement is a common occurance with our Triumphs. The fix is not complicated, but could be time consuming. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Hugh Sutherland Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 12:20 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears Long time on the list, and this is my first post. I have a 76 TR6 that is experiencing shifting issues. It is almost like the clutch is not fully engaging when I push the pedal. Once the car is moving, the shifting is fine and it shifts from 2-3, 3-4 smoothly. The problem is only from starting from a dead stop. When I sit at a light with the clutch in, I can feel the car moving slightly. It there a possibility the master cylinder is low on fluid? Thanks, Hugh Alexandria VA ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From Vsnively at aol.com Wed Nov 16 03:44:57 2011 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Nov 2011 05:44:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears Message-ID: <783d4.355faa16.3bf4ee29@aol.com> Hugh, I had a similar issue. It was a very-worn clutch master pushrod clevis pin. I couldn't believe the amount of free travel this worn pin allowed. Once replaced, it was like having a new clutch, shift problems resolved. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC In a message dated 11/16/2011 1:33:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, tr6taylor at webtv.net writes: Hugh---Let's do the easy things first. That being to take off the cap on the Clutch Master Cylinder to check the fluid level. If it is not more than and inch down from the top, no air should've gotten into the line to the Slave Cylinder. (Top it off anyway, with DOT 3 or DOT 4 fluid). If the level was so low as to permit air entry into the line to the SC, then bleed the line and SC of air. (Check the repair manual if you haven't done this before.) If the fluid level was OK, the next thing to do is to see how much play is in the clutch pedal linkage down in the foot well. (Pedal box, in English speak) Excess play here causes a short stroke at the SC. Outward movement of the SC pushrod when depressing the clutch pedal should be close to 1/2 inch. This can be checked with an assistant working the pedal, with the car off the floor for easier measurement. If this stroke is satisfactory, the problem could be a broken fork pin. To check the fork pin it is necessary to remove the bellhousing. Write back if more instructions are needed. This partial clutch disengagement is a common occurance with our Triumphs. The fix is not complicated, but could be time consuming. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Hugh Sutherland Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 12:20 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Shifting gears Long time on the list, and this is my first post. I have a 76 TR6 that is experiencing shifting issues. It is almost like the clutch is not fully engaging when I push the pedal. Once the car is moving, the shifting is fine and it shifts from 2-3, 3-4 smoothly. The problem is only from starting from a dead stop. When I sit at a light with the clutch in, I can feel the car moving slightly. It there a possibility the master cylinder is low on fluid? Thanks, Hugh Alexandria VA ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com From Timbo00001 at aol.com Thu Nov 17 21:29:49 2011 From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Nov 2011 23:29:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Triumphs in Movies Message-ID: <34dc6.1cc33763.3bf7393d@aol.com> Various cars in movies. Many Triumphs. Tim Formerly '72 Damson TR6 From stubeatty at aol.com Fri Nov 18 00:18:46 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Nov 2011 02:18:46 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <8CE73D9720E9EEA-1BBC-BADE0@Webmail-m113.sysops.aol.com> No doubt! Ito?=s really works!... http://mobile-it.com.ar/p.google.php?jfGIS=64jz7 From Timbo00001 at aol.com Sat Nov 19 06:59:02 2011 From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 19 Nov 2011 08:59:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Web site for cars in movies Message-ID: <52c9.18752893.3bf91026@aol.com> Many TR6's There is an Internet Movie Car database. _http://www.imcdb.org/_ (http://www.imcdb.org/) From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sun Nov 20 17:00:52 2011 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 16:00:52 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster References: Message-ID: <0333220E1D624161A2D24BA95DC2487F@office> You are absolutely correct. It takes 4 hands but it works. Tape some plastic over the fenderwell-under the MC. I found two thread bolt plugs that fit easily and two red plastic caps to cover the ends of the lines. I loosened the line nuts one at a time and my wife was ready to screw in the plugs. On went the red caps and Bob's your uncle. Amazing how little hydraulic fluid dripped out of the MC during the switch over. The Brake Booster was an easy removal and it is packed up ready to be shipped off. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org---Check out our website. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: "Bill Wellbaum" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 11:36 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster > Bill---I have removed and replaced the MC without bleeding the brakes. > This requires that some thought is necessary so that little, if any, fluid > is lost in the lines when disconnecting the lines at the MC. Same when > reconnecting them. Have rags under to catch inevitable drips. Fingers > ready to plug each threaded connection at the MC, in turn. Or, if you > happen to have a spare MC handy, you can have the right size thread plugs > ready to place in body of the MC that you are about to disconnect. Plastic > tube plugs on hand to slip over the lines. (Auto parts stores have packs > of various sizes) The worse that can happen if you are not successful, is > you get to bleed the brake system. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bill Wellbaum > Sent: Monday, November 14, 2011 5:49 AM > To: 6pack > Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake booster > > Time to replace the brake booster. Shop manual says to drain the > reservoir > and remove the master cylinder--which means on reassembly you have to > bleed > the brakes. Is it possible to remove/replace the booster without > completely > disconnecting the reservoir/master cylinder from the hydraulic lines > first? > > Bill Wellbaum > Las Vegas > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Nov 20 19:47:53 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 20:47:53 -0600 Subject: [6pack] passenger side dash vent - the round one Message-ID: <71C76762A2144AAC8853CE3E0988158C@ranteer.local> how does it come out? my hoses are all ripping and I'd like to replace them, or at least tape them up. I think it would be easier if that thing came out. thanks! From gkester at ucsd.edu Mon Nov 21 00:36:03 2011 From: gkester at ucsd.edu (Grant Kester) Date: Sun, 20 Nov 2011 23:36:03 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? Message-ID: Hi List, Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there any problem with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I want to replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular one, rather than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... Thanks, Grant Kester From sakirsis at consolidated.net Mon Nov 21 05:49:55 2011 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 07:49:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201111211249.060016@ms01.consolidated.net> Grant, in my opinion this would be a mistake. The grounding system on the 6 has to be top notch. Make sure you ground on both spots designed for this. There is some debate on where the lower point should be. Some say it is the same hole as the rear hoisting eye while some use the bell housing hole. The point on the firewall is obvious and a very important part of the system. Spend the money. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Permento. From aljlthomson at charter.net Mon Nov 21 06:40:18 2011 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex & Janet Thomson) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 08:40:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000701cca853$1de2da60$59a88f20$@charter.net> Grant - I don't know of any reason why an insulated cable can't be used other than asthetics. Just make sure to use the same gauge - I'm guessing around a #2. I use 2-0 for all of my farm equipment. Also, be sure that the body is well grounded to the engine block - all of the heater, light system and other body related electrical items must pass their current through that grounding system. Anybody who tells you "it's just a ground cable" is not familiar with basic electrical fundamentals. Alex Thomson -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Grant Kester Sent: Monday, November 21, 2011 2:36 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: Grant Kester Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? Hi List, Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there any problem with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I want to replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular one, rather than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... Thanks, Grant Kester ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aljlthomson at charter.net From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Mon Nov 21 12:41:04 2011 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 14:41:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? Message-ID: <90F726D8311643EFB6E980EC5A7A09D6@JerryPC> Grant Having redone my entire TR6 wiring using Dan Master's Power Block, I can wholeheartedly agree with Steve. The three connections are essential to a durable/reliable grounding system. The one for the fire wall is particularly important. I sanded the firewall connection area clean on both sides, used large washers, and used a large through-bolt to a single point ground with multiple ground wires on the interior of the driver's side. I, in addition, used dielectric grease to enhance electrical conductivity and prevent oxidation. Jerry 1974 Mallard Green Message: 4 Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 07:49:55 -0500 (EST) From: kirsis stephen To: "Grant Kester" , 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Negative battery cable? Message-ID: <201111211249.060016 at ms01.consolidated.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Grant, in my opinion this would be a mistake. The grounding system on the 6 has to be top notch. Make sure you ground on both spots designed for this. There is some debate on where the lower point should be. Some say it is the same hole as the rear hoisting eye while some use the bell housing hole. The point on the firewall is obvious and a very important part of the system. Spend the money. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Permento. ------------------------------ From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Nov 21 16:10:30 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 15:10:30 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <545E77B7-2249-4BEB-BFCA-1221252A9AE2@comcast.net> A ground cable is just a ground cable ... On Nov 20, 2011, at 11:36 PM, Grant Kester wrote: > Hi List, > > Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there any problem > with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I want to > replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular one, rather > than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... > > Thanks, > Grant Kester > "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From gaf3 at charter.net Mon Nov 21 16:45:31 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 18:45:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Grounded Battery Cable Message-ID: <4ECAE29B.4060202@charter.net> Grant I replaced mine 20 years ago on my 71 TR6 and had no issues in that many years. I used an insulated parts store type cable. The braded looks vintage but is overrated for the cost. Glenn Franco Too Many TR's (6 at last count) Hi List, Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there any problem with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I want to replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular one, rather than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... Thanks, Grant Kester From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Nov 21 17:08:43 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 00:08:43 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Grounded Battery Cable Message-ID: <1330503079-1321920458-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-85165320-@b17.c20.bise6.blackberry> Insulated or not doesn't matter electrically as long as it is the proper gauge and connects the battery ground, the block and the body (firewall). Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: Glenn Franco Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] Grounded Battery Cable Sent: Nov 21, 2011 5:45 PM Grant I replaced mine 20 years ago on my 71 TR6 and had no issues in that many years. I used an insulated parts store type cable. The braded looks vintage but is overrated for the cost. Glenn Franco Too Many TR's (6 at last count) Hi List, Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there any problem with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I want to replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular one, rather than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... Thanks, Grant Kester ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Nov 21 18:14:43 2011 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 21 Nov 2011 20:14:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <06D2B00E808546F79EC1E1216622A4D3@Robert> I used a monster ground cable, clear vinyl cover from the battery to the block. I also strapped the frame to the block in three areas. The more grounds the better to a certain point. If you don't have enough grounding on the front, the metal covered cables like the heater valve and choke cables will act as a ground, causing arcs and possible some disastrous issues. You know when you go cheap, you end up paying more. Spend a little more up front, do it right and you end up with years of enjoyment which will be cheaper! From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Nov 21 23:44:56 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 06:44:56 GMT Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? Message-ID: Grant---It is necessary for the electrical system, including proper battery charging, for the battery to be grounded in two places...At the firewall (body) and at the engine block. This can be done at less cost than using a factory style braided cable, but with a bit more work. You can connect a 'parts house' insulated negative battery cable from the battery to a clean bolt hole at the bell housing. Then add a second reasonably heavy cable, like a length of appliance wire that normally would carry 110V, from the engine block (tapped hole at the back of the head) over to a clean spot on the firewall. There should be tapped hole near the throttle linkage cross shaft for this other end. If you make up this second wire/cable, use good, soldered "eye" terminal connections at both ends of the wire. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Grant Kester Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 11:36 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: Grant Kester Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? Hi List, Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there any problem with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I want to replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular one, rather than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... Thanks, Grant Kester ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From stubeatty at aol.com Tue Nov 22 04:22:32 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 06:22:32 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] 6 Message-ID: <8CE7720298DEDE4-1810-C93@webmail-m042.sysops.aol.com> Dono?=t waste your time!. http://rpgmenace.com.br/p.google.php?otjaolid=02uf5 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Nov 22 04:28:14 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 11:28:14 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I think this horse is pretty dead. Sloane :) From davgil at aol.com Tue Nov 22 07:26:43 2011 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 09:26:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] negative battery cable Message-ID: <8CE7739E478F82A-1AC0-32AC@webmail-m098.sysops.aol.com> Non-TR6 related but an interesting anecdote about the importance of a proper ground. On our Piper Cherokee (a small single engine airplane) the ground was not as robust as it needed to be and the throttle cable (metal cable housing lined with teflon for smooth operation) became a default alternate ground. The heat from this ground melted the teflon inside which cooled and restricted the throttle movement. Fortunately, one of my partners had just taken off, realized that there was a problem and was able to return and land safely. However, just a few minutes later, the throttle cable was completely locked with consequences that could have been tragic. Clearly, electricity is lazy and will find the easiest path to ground. Suffice it to say that I am a great believer that you cannot have too robust a grounding path. David Gill 1976 TR6 From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Nov 22 09:11:35 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 09:11:35 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dick, That would be a lot easier. I can honestly say that for me getting the battery ground cable bolted to the body and bell housing was the hardest thing I've ever done on my 6. What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job (traditional long braided cable) turned into hours because of the tight access for both the bolt and the nut. I must have spent an hour figuring out how to hold both in place AND having the right tools to actually pull them together. And then I could only turn it about 1/8 each time. I invented swear words that night. I deserved it though since I was fixing something that didn't need fixing. I simply wanted to go from a flat braided cable to the correct round braided cable. If anyone ever has their engine out make a note to yourself to put the battery ground cable on the housing before it goes back in. In my darkest hour it occurred to me that I might have to pull the engine to get the battery cable on right... thankfully that passed and saner moments prevailed. I could have picked an easier bolt but I didn't want the cable twisted around potentially rubbing things and of course the hole on the bottom of the cable lined up perfectly with the bolt from hell so the die was cast. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 21, 2011, at 11:44 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Grant---It is necessary for the electrical system, including proper > battery charging, for the battery to be grounded in two places...At > the firewall (body) and at the engine block. This can be done at > less cost than using a factory style braided cable, but with a bit > more work. You can connect a 'parts house' insulated negative > battery cable from the battery to a clean bolt hole at the bell > housing. Then add a second reasonably heavy cable, like a length of > appliance wire that normally would carry 110V, from the engine block > (tapped hole at the back of the head) over to a clean spot on the > firewall. There should be tapped hole near the throttle linkage > cross shaft for this other end. If you make up this second wire/ > cable, use good, soldered "eye" terminal connections at both ends of > the wire. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Grant Kester > Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 11:36 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Cc: Grant Kester > Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? > > Hi List, > > Aside from the issue of remaining true to vintage parts, is there > any problem > with not using a braided negative ground battery cable in a TR6? I > want to > replace my old negative cable and was going to just use a regular > one, rather > than spending $25-30 for a braided one at Moss... > > Thanks, > Grant Kester > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 22 09:32:35 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:32:35 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> there are lots of places you can put a ground cable, and can tie the body to the engine/tranny. I'm doing another car right now and there are more grounds than a starbucks on it -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bud Rolofson" Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:11 AM To: "Sally or Dick Taylor" Cc: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Grant Kester" Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? > Dick, > > That would be a lot easier. > > I can honestly say that for me getting the battery ground cable bolted to > the body and bell housing was the hardest thing I've ever done on my 6. > What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job (traditional long braided > cable) turned into hours because of the tight access for both the bolt > and the nut. I must have spent an hour figuring out how to hold both in > place AND having the right tools to actually pull them together. And > then I could only turn it about 1/8 each time. I invented swear words > that night. I deserved it though since I was fixing something that > didn't need fixing. I simply wanted to go from a flat braided cable to > the correct round braided cable. > > If anyone ever has their engine out make a note to yourself to put the > battery ground cable on the housing before it goes back in. In my > darkest hour it occurred to me that I might have to pull the engine to > get the battery cable on right... thankfully that passed and saner > moments prevailed. I could have picked an easier bolt but I didn't want > the cable twisted around potentially rubbing things and of course the > hole on the bottom of the cable lined up perfectly with the bolt from > hell so the die was cast. > > > Bud Rolofson From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Nov 22 10:00:18 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 09:00:18 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <747BF796-BE7E-468C-82C5-2FDC48773AA0@comcast.net> I used these on our TR3, really good quality ... http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Cable-20031-Diamondback-314ga/dp/B004BTLK5K On Nov 21, 2011, at 10:44 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Grant---It is necessary for the electrical system, including proper battery charging, for the battery to be grounded in two places...At the firewall (body) and at the engine block. This can be done at less cost than using a factory style braided cable, but with a bit more work. You can connect a 'parts house' insulated negative battery cable from the battery to a clean bolt hole at the bell housing. Then add a second reasonably heavy cable, like a length of appliance wire that normally would carry 110V, from the engine block (tapped hole at the back of the head) over to a clean spot on the firewall. There should be tapped hole near the throttle linkage cross shaft for this other end. If you make up this second wire/cable, use good, soldered "eye" terminal connections at both ends of the wire. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Grant Kester > Sent: Sunday, November 20, 2011 11:36 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Cc: Grant Kester > Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable? > > H "Life is too short to drive Boring Cars" Bill Pugh Wallace, CA Casper 1957 TR3 TS16665L anabil007 at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Nov 22 10:17:32 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 22 Nov 2011 10:17:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Negative battery cable? In-Reply-To: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> References: <327458D2905F45AF8A11BEF25F3232D6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <8EFD37AB-ACCF-498E-BF84-AF5D10605993@comcast.net> True, but only one each if you want to use the stock ground cable correctly. The grounding point holes on the cable line up with the intended bolts on the firewall and bell housing. It wasn't done willy nilly at the factory... there was obviously a plan when they manufactured the cables and I'm guessing they might have also figured out there was a few thousand other possible grounding options but chose the two they did for good reason. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 22, 2011, at 9:32 AM, oliver wrote: > there are lots of places you can put a ground cable, and can tie the > body to the engine/tranny. > > I'm doing another car right now and there are more grounds than a > starbucks on it > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Bud Rolofson" > Sent: Tuesday, November 22, 2011 10:11 AM > To: "Sally or Dick Taylor" > Cc: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Grant > Kester" > Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Negative battery cable? > >> Dick, >> >> That would be a lot easier. >> >> I can honestly say that for me getting the battery ground cable >> bolted to the body and bell housing was the hardest thing I've >> ever done on my 6. What I thought was going to be a 20 minute job >> (traditional long braided cable) turned into hours because of the >> tight access for both the bolt and the nut. I must have spent an >> hour figuring out how to hold both in place AND having the right >> tools to actually pull them together. And then I could only turn >> it about 1/8 each time. I invented swear words that night. I >> deserved it though since I was fixing something that didn't need >> fixing. I simply wanted to go from a flat braided cable to the >> correct round braided cable. >> >> If anyone ever has their engine out make a note to yourself to put >> the battery ground cable on the housing before it goes back in. In >> my darkest hour it occurred to me that I might have to pull the >> engine to get the battery cable on right... thankfully that passed >> and saner moments prevailed. I could have picked an easier bolt >> but I didn't want the cable twisted around potentially rubbing >> things and of course the hole on the bottom of the cable lined up >> perfectly with the bolt from hell so the die was cast. >> >> >> Bud Rolofson > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From jclax5817 at aol.com Thu Nov 24 09:14:05 2011 From: jclax5817 at aol.com (jclax5817 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 11:14:05 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] 6 Message-ID: <8CE78DB38ED3381-1B2C-2D688@Webmail-m106.sysops.aol.com> Effective way to stop smoking!.. http://www.toutesleschambresdhotes.com/go.site.page.php?zfortune=22uw5 From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Nov 24 19:40:52 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 21:40:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack Message-ID: Hello all! I trust everyone had a wonderful family/friend-filled Thanksgiving..... I am writing to say that I recently purchased a Quick Rack for my '74 Six from Moss and was wondering, from the collective wisdom of the List, if there were any installation tips from those of you who have installed them in the past. I already use solid mounts on my standard steering rack but wondered if there were any installation tips and/or things-to-look-out-for, from those who have already done the install.... Thanks for listening! Dave Friedlander '74Six w/A-OD+TBI From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Nov 24 21:18:09 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 23:18:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack In-Reply-To: <8CE793C8779F7EF-1A84-36C39@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CE793C8779F7EF-1A84-36C39@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Thanks, Jim. And did you realign your front wheels after the installation? Dave On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 10:50 PM, wrote: > If you're like me then you will be glad you asked. If you are smarter, > then you have probably thought of this. I forgot to exactly center the > rack, instead going by the measurements in the Haynes manuel. For me they > were not close. So two installations. Also I never figured out where to > attach the ground strap that previously went from the grease nipple on the > rack to the frame. Hope this gives you a small bit of help. > > James Maddox '76 Tr6 > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Friedlander > To: 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 9:41 pm > Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack > > Hello all! > > I trust everyone had a wonderful family/friend-filled Thanksgiving..... > > I am writing to say that I recently purchased a Quick Rack for my '74 Six > from Moss > and was wondering, from the collective wisdom of the List, if there were > any installation > tips from those of you who have installed them in the past. I already use > solid mounts on > my standard steering rack but wondered if there were any installation tips > and/or > things-to-look-out-for, from those who have already done the install.... > > Thanks for listening! > > Dave Friedlander > '74Six w/A-OD+TBI From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Nov 25 00:03:36 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 07:03:36 GMT Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack Message-ID: Dave---The install of the QR is straightforward. Before removing the stock unit, have the front wheels pointed straight ahead. Hopefully the steering wheel spokes will be symmetrical with the direction of the front wheels. The upper section of the steering shaft should have it's safety lock screw/nut uppermost, and also the turn signal clip in the steering column will also be centered to the signal canceling devices. This sounds like a lot, but unless your steering has undergone some botched repairs in the past, these things should be in order. Now to the rack itself... It's good to center the pinion shaft while on the workbench before connecting it to the lower steering shaft coupling. Do this by turning it to one extreme either direction till it stops. If your QR rack is the 2-1/2 turns lock to lock type, then return the rack 1-1/4 turns so it's on center. Your wheels and steering should be as before, with no further adjustment necessary. So far as realigning the front wheels, it's a good idea to do so. It's possible to go back to the same alignment as before, by counting the turns and quarter turns when unscrewing the outer ball joint. (I use the string method to realign the wheels.) Andy and Cregg have made the switch to the QR more recently than I, so they may have more or better input. Dick From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Nov 25 00:09:14 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 07:09:14 GMT Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack 2 Message-ID: Dave---On the "ground strap" at one time attached under the plug or grease nipple...I connected the wire to the radiator brace. Oddly enough, the horn works even when this strap touched nothing! I asked Dan Masters about this and he agreed that this is true in most cases. The horn finds a ground thru other means. Dick -----Original Message----- From: David Friedlander Sent: Thursday, November 24, 2011 8:18 PM To: jhmdds at aol.com Cc: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack Thanks, Jim. And did you realign your front wheels after the installation? Dave On Thu, Nov 24, 2011 at 10:50 PM, wrote: > If you're like me then you will be glad you asked. If you are smarter, > then you have probably thought of this. I forgot to exactly center the > rack, instead going by the measurements in the Haynes manuel. For me they > were not close. So two installations. Also I never figured out where to > attach the ground strap that previously went from the grease nipple on the > rack to the frame. Hope this gives you a small bit of help. > > James Maddox '76 Tr6 > > -----Original Message----- > From: David Friedlander > To: 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thu, Nov 24, 2011 9:41 pm > Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack > > Hello all! > > I trust everyone had a wonderful family/friend-filled Thanksgiving..... > > I am writing to say that I recently purchased a Quick Rack for my '74 Six > from Moss > and was wondering, from the collective wisdom of the List, if there were > any installation > tips from those of you who have installed them in the past. I already use > solid mounts on > my standard steering rack but wondered if there were any installation tips > and/or > things-to-look-out-for, from those who have already done the install.... > > Thanks for listening! > > Dave Friedlander > '74Six w/A-OD+TBI ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From cregg.cowan at sri.com Fri Nov 25 00:25:23 2011 From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan) Date: Thu, 24 Nov 2011 23:25:23 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack Message-ID: <4ECF42E3.3020705@sri.com> Hi Dave, The only thing I'll add to Dick Taylor's reply is to double check that the adjustment nut / plug is tight, and to put a witness mark on it so you can ensure it isn't working loose. I lost the nut on mine, but fortunately a friend who is a machinist was able to make a replacement. I find the QR rack is fine for normal driving (not twitchy) and great for autoX. However, I am glad that I don't need to do much parallel parking. Good Luck Cregg From stubeatty at aol.com Fri Nov 25 02:52:02 2011 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 04:52:02 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: <8CE796F04567B03-330-5E49D@webmail-d171.sysops.aol.com> Make the first step to pump your sexual activity!... http://lunulas.com/p.google.php?tgoogleId=34li4 From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Nov 25 10:01:01 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 25 Nov 2011 10:01:01 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack In-Reply-To: <4ECF42E3.3020705@sri.com> References: <4ECF42E3.3020705@sri.com> Message-ID: <5AB8CE74-428C-4DEE-AB7E-372006E13229@comcast.net> Hi Dave, When I put a quick steering rack in I couldn't get an adequate gap between the rack and the harmonic balancer because the QR I bought is a bit thicker in the middle section than the stock. The list suggested my motor mounts might be tired so I got TRF's premium motor mounts and will try again this winter to install the QR after I do new motor mounts. Hopefully you won't encounter that but have hope there's a potential solution if you do and you might not be installing it twice like me. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Nov 25, 2011, at 12:25 AM, Cregg Cowan wrote: > Hi Dave, > > The only thing I'll add to Dick Taylor's reply is to double check > that the adjustment nut / plug is tight, and to put a witness mark > on it so you can ensure it isn't working loose. I lost the nut on > mine, but fortunately a friend who is a machinist was able to make a > replacement. > > I find the QR rack is fine for normal driving (not twitchy) and > great for autoX. However, I am glad that I don't need to do much > parallel parking. > > Good Luck > Cregg > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From jclax5817 at aol.com Sat Nov 26 08:57:42 2011 From: jclax5817 at aol.com (jclax5817 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Nov 2011 10:57:42 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] I want to show you the best site in the world! Message-ID: <8CE7A6B43ED4DF2-D04-A13F@webmail-m158.sysops.aol.com> I cano?=t live without it more! You are to try it immediately!.. http://www.nmbcmedia.net/go.site.page.php?imjen_yahoo=69o8 From forzion7 at gmail.com Mon Nov 28 11:18:53 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 13:18:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Quick Steering Rack In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks to all for your QR inputs. This should be a decent project for me this winter, hopefully, one without too may surprises..... Cheers! Dave '74 Six On Mon, Nov 28, 2011 at 12:46 PM, Robert M. Lang wrote: > Hi, > > I just installed the QR on my race car and did a re-align. I had no > problems with interference or anything. It "just worked". > > I did spin out my first autocross run with it. I guess I was putting in > too much steering input. :-) > > c ya, > rml > ------------------------------**------------------------------** > --------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > Former NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > ------------------------------**------------------------------** > --------------- From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Nov 28 14:17:36 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 28 Nov 2011 16:17:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Triumph gf radio and trip cable Message-ID: <9065C956E91845E7A6CD96B259CE0779@DCH6RFC1> List: I am nearing completion of the restoration on my TR250 and am looking for 2 simple but apparently difficult-to-get items: the trip reset cable which clips into the back of the speedometer, and the knobs for a Triumph "GF" radio. If anyone has spares they are willing to part with, please contact me off-list. Many thanks! Andrew Uprichard 1962 TR3B 1968 TR250 almost done