From paradigm_inc at comcast.net Wed May 4 00:42:19 2011 From: paradigm_inc at comcast.net (Jim Hinckley) Date: Tue, 3 May 2011 23:42:19 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Panasport FZ16x7 Message-ID: <000001cc0a26$6b2eb580$418c2080$@net> Ruth at Spruell Motorsport says that wheel comes in 0 and +22 offset. Which offset works best for the TR6? From tr6parts at charter.net Wed May 4 04:59:15 2011 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 06:59:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Panasport FZ16x7 References: <000001cc0a26$6b2eb580$418c2080$@net> Message-ID: <08C904292B974CF2A3C9B937515244C9@Alan> Zero offset is what you want. Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Hinckley" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 2:42 AM Subject: [6pack] Panasport FZ16x7 > Ruth at Spruell Motorsport says that wheel comes in 0 and +22 offset. > Which > offset works best for the TR6? > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net From dave at ranteer.com Wed May 4 08:38:17 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 09:38:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] off topic - Tuscaloosa In-Reply-To: <08C904292B974CF2A3C9B937515244C9@Alan> References: <000001cc0a26$6b2eb580$418c2080$@net> <08C904292B974CF2A3C9B937515244C9@Alan> Message-ID: <88D68886FAC54E348CAC098C6D89E696@ranteer.local> My son is a student at the university of alabama in tuscaloosa. the city was truly devastated. he took shelter with many other students in the basement of the library last wednesday evening. with the power still out thursday morning, he drove home to dallas. we were obviously glad to see him. he is selling T Shirts to raise money for the restoration effort, and has put together this website: www.PrayforTTown.com thanks! Triumph topic - he works hard on our TR6 with me and loves driving it From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Wed May 4 13:12:41 2011 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 15:12:41 -0400 Subject: [6pack] SU needle for TR6 Conversion? Message-ID: <380-2201153419124162@earthlink.net> I'm thinking of switching to SU carbs on my TR6. Moss sells the conversion kit with the BAG needle, presumably for the stock TR6 engine. Has anyone played with the needles already and found a better one to start with for a TR6 with the usual mods? (9.5:1 CR, GP-2 cam, header/exhaust, flowed head, 1.65:1 RR) As a reference, I've tried 4 needles in the ZS carbs: B1E (jag) :pulled like crazy above 3k, totally undriveable around town (rich). Would not idle. B1AQ (stag) better around town, still too rich. Lumpy, high idle. B1AF (TR6) Nice consistent idle, too lean above 3k, pings from 2200-3000 at more than 1/2 throttle, no power above 4k I'm currently running B2Y (TR250) needles that I converted to adjustable-type by using the needle housings from my B1AF's. The idle is good, the plugs are whitish-tan, but the car still pings 2200-3000 RPM unless I retard the timing, and the power above 4k is not what it should be for a modded engine. I know the engine is capable if much more. I'm betting that SU's with adjustable jets would give me a greater range of adjustment and a wider selection of available needles. I'd also like to eliminate the variable of the temperature compensators on the ZS. I'm sure some of you have been down this path? Any tips? Cheers, Tom www.triumphowners.com/735 From britishcars at shaw.ca Wed May 4 16:25:44 2011 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 15:25:44 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lowering a TR6/TR250 Message-ID: <003601cc0aaa$35e267d0$a1a73770$@ca> I installed new springs in my TR250 a few years ago. At that time, the car sat high in the rear and I thought that over time the springs would relax.however, this has not happened. How do you lower the rear of a TR250? Is it simply cutting the springs down? From trglory at verizon.net Wed May 4 17:54:10 2011 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Wed, 04 May 2011 19:54:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Lowering a TR6/TR250 In-Reply-To: <003601cc0aaa$35e267d0$a1a73770$@ca> References: <003601cc0aaa$35e267d0$a1a73770$@ca> Message-ID: <00a601cc0ab6$93c9e6f0$bb5db4d0$@net> Look to see if you have packing pieces under the springs. If you do, remove them and see if it gets you where you want to be. Joe Laurito -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 6:26 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Lowering a TR6/TR250 I installed new springs in my TR250 a few years ago. At that time, the car sat high in the rear and I thought that over time the springs would relax.however, this has not happened. How do you lower the rear of a TR250? Is it simply cutting the springs down? From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed May 4 18:43:26 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 20:43:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] SU needle for TR6 Conversion? In-Reply-To: <380-2201153419124162@earthlink.net> References: <380-2201153419124162@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <201105042043.27536.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday, May 04, 2011 03:12:41 pm Tomislav Marincic wrote: > I'm thinking of switching to SU carbs on my TR6. Moss sells the conversion > kit with the BAG needle, presumably for the stock TR6 engine. > > Has anyone played with the needles already and found a better one to start > with for a TR6 with the usual mods? (9.5:1 CR, GP-2 cam, header/exhaust, > flowed head, 1.65:1 RR) > > As a reference, I've tried 4 needles in the ZS carbs: > > B1E (jag) :pulled like crazy above 3k, totally undriveable around town > (rich). Would not idle. B1AQ (stag) better around town, still too rich. > Lumpy, high idle. > B1AF (TR6) Nice consistent idle, too lean above 3k, pings from 2200-3000 at > more than 1/2 throttle, no power above 4k > > I'm currently running B2Y (TR250) needles that I converted to > adjustable-type by using the needle housings from my B1AF's. The idle is > good, the plugs are whitish-tan, but the car still pings 2200-3000 RPM > unless I retard the timing, and the power above 4k is not what it should > be for a modded engine. I know the engine is capable if much more. > > I'm betting that SU's with adjustable jets would give me a greater range of > adjustment and a wider selection of available needles. I'd also like to > eliminate the variable of the temperature compensators on the ZS. > > I'm sure some of you have been down this path? Any tips? > > Cheers, Tom > > www.triumphowners.com/735 Tom I would give Jeff at paltech a call. He is the expert on carbs for the SU, ZS variety. I am sure he would have the answers you are looking for. Just give Paltech a google search and you will get his website. Bob From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed May 4 18:44:48 2011 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 20:44:48 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] My TR250 is Done Message-ID: Hey Guys, Sing Hallelujah! My 250 is done! I am not ashamed to say that I simply wrote the checks this time to have Mark and his Dad, Terry of Classic Restoration in Warren, Ohio restore it for a second time to as original. I have for sure been over every part of this car personally so I have done my part previously. I wore it out the first time and with any luck I will live long enough to wear it out a second time. According to Mark: "Car looks great! I took it out on SAT and put about 20 miles on the clock and I think it runs and drives absolutely perfect. A true joy to drive." Life is Good, Darrell From v.navarrette at comcast.net Wed May 4 19:16:21 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 18:16:21 -0700 Subject: [6pack] SU needle for TR6 Conversion? In-Reply-To: <380-2201153419124162@earthlink.net> References: <380-2201153419124162@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000601cc0ac2$0c342960$249c7c20$@navarrette@comcast.net> Tom: My car has 9.6:1 compression, 3 angle valve job, 270 degree cam, ported head and intake manifold, K&N filters, factory dual exhaust, 1.5 rockers. I am running B1AR needles from Joe Curto (Adjustable carriers provided by Joe). They work fine and will allow me to adjust my plugs from black/sooty to paper white. I found the B1AQ needles to be waaay too rich, and the stock B1AF to be too lean. Don't forget that you can take a lean set of needles, chuck them in your drill, and use some 600 grit sand paper to turn them down. Typically one good squeeze with the sandpaper is all it takes. In your case, the B1AF needles would only need to be reworked on the thin half of the needle (power/acceleration). It sounds like the idle and cruise (thicker half) already work fine. As for the ping at 2200 to 3000 RPM, sounds like you may have a weak advance spring in your dizzy. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tomislav Marincic Subject: [6pack] SU needle for TR6 Conversion? Has anyone played with the needles already and found a better one to start with for a TR6 with the usual mods? (9.5:1 CR, GP-2 cam, header/exhaust, flowed head, 1.65:1 RR) As a reference, I've tried 4 needles in the ZS carbs: B1E (jag) :pulled like crazy above 3k, totally undriveable around town (rich). Would not idle. B1AQ (stag) better around town, still too rich. Lumpy, high idle. B1AF (TR6) Nice consistent idle, too lean above 3k, pings from 2200-3000 at more than 1/2 throttle, no power above 4k I'm currently running B2Y (TR250) needles that I converted to adjustable-type by using the needle housings from my B1AF's. Cheers, Tom From v.navarrette at comcast.net Wed May 4 19:17:48 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Wed, 4 May 2011 18:17:48 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lowering a TR6/TR250 In-Reply-To: <003601cc0aaa$35e267d0$a1a73770$@ca> References: <003601cc0aaa$35e267d0$a1a73770$@ca> Message-ID: <000701cc0ac2$4049e6e0$c0ddb4a0$@navarrette@comcast.net> Install the BPNW or Moss lowering rear springs. They drop the rear end by 1". Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of PG Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 3:26 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Lowering a TR6/TR250 I installed new springs in my TR250 a few years ago. At that time, the car sat high in the rear and I thought that over time the springs would relax.however, this has not happened. How do you lower the rear of a TR250? Is it simply cutting the springs down? From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu May 5 05:36:15 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 07:36:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] My TR250 is Done In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201105050736.16337.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday, May 04, 2011 08:44:48 pm TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > Sing Hallelujah! My 250 is done! I am not ashamed to say that I simply > wrote the checks this time to have Mark and his Dad, Terry of Classic > Restoration in Warren, Ohio restore it for a second time to as original. Darrell, Way to go! If you are a member of the 6-pack or the Triumph forum, post some photos! If the weather was a bit warmer and drier up here in central NY, I would be right behind you with my 72 TR6 restoration. Just a few things to go and I will be driving my 3rd Triumph. I chose the do it yourself. Still paying for my 3 girls college and 2 weddings! Bob From v.navarrette at comcast.net Thu May 5 10:49:28 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 09:49:28 -0700 Subject: [6pack] SU needle for TR6 Conversion? In-Reply-To: <380-220115452113578@earthlink.net> References: <380-220115452113578@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <001201cc0b44$66f1dc30$34d59490$@navarrette@comcast.net> Tom: Dunno where you got your numbers on the needles. Here are the numbers in my Zenith Needle Catalog: Station B1AQ B1AR % Difference ------------------------------------------------ 1 0.096 0.095 0.8 2 0.094 0.093 1.9 3 0.092 0.091 1.1 4 0.089 0.089 0.4 5 0.086 0.085 1.2 6 0.083 0.082 3.0 7 0.079 0.078 3.9 8 0.075 0.074 3.3 9 0.070 0.072 -3.3 10 0.066 0.069 -8.6 11 0.062 0.066 -12.9 12 0.056 0.066 -26.1 13 0.056 0.065 -24.7 As you can see, the B1AR is barely richer at the idle/cruise end (stations 1through 8) and much leaner at the power end (Stations 9 through 13). A larger diameter is leaner, a smaller diameter is richer. To determine the % change, you must take the jet size (0.100") and convert that to area. Then take the diameter of the needle, and convert that to area as well (Pi * r^2), then subtract the area of the needle from the area of the jet. Then compare the resulting areas to determine the change in fueling. As you can see, the low end fueling is almost identical to the B1AQ, but the high end fueling is much *LEANER*, NOT RICHER as you claim. You stated originally that the B1AQ let you avoid knocking on the low end and was good around town, but was too rich on the high end. I stand by my claim that the B1AR needle solves your problem by leaning out the mixture at the power/acceleration end of the fueling range, but leaves the idle and cruise alone. As for the lumpy idle with the B1AR, that is a result of your cam + rockers. I think you will find that if you go back to your stock rocker ratio, the lumpy idle will smooth out just fine. If it doesn't smooth out, you probably have a vacuum leak somewhere. A 270 degree cam is extremely sensitive to vacuum leaks, and if you add high ratio rockers to such a cam, it will push it over the edge into lumpy idle territory. High ratio rockers are equivalent to adding 10 degrees to your cam, so at 280 degrees you are into the lumpy idle/poor cold start behavior of autocross cam rather than a street cam. Vance -----Original Message----- From: Tomislav Marincic [mailto:tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net] Sent: Wednesday, May 04, 2011 7:01 PM To: Vance Navarrette Subject: RE: [6pack] SU needle for TR6 Conversion? Vance, I made some Excel charts of various needle profiles, and B1AR was one I looked at, just because it was readily available. For the first 8 of 13 stations, it was almost the same as B1AQ, but then it got much richer. Since I was having trouble down low, I doubt it would work for me. Cheers, Tom From apackard68 at att.net Thu May 5 13:05:58 2011 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 12:05:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] My TR250 is Done In-Reply-To: <201105050736.16337.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201105050736.16337.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <376020.68019.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> "Done" is such a foreign concept for my TR250. I've driven it to work every day this week and it performed well, but there's always a list of items I'd like to get to. But just a wheel switch will have it ready for Saturday's Brutes and Beauts Car Gathering and Autocross I am chairing for Triumph Travelers in Santa Clara, CA. Check out photos and a short movie of last year's event at triumphtravelers.org, following the 2011 Autocross link. Andy CD6746L ________________________________ From: Bob To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Thu, May 5, 2011 4:36:15 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] My TR250 is Done On Wednesday, May 04, 2011 08:44:48 pm TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > Sing Hallelujah! My 250 is done! I am not ashamed to say that I simply > wrote the checks this time to have Mark and his Dad, Terry of Classic > Restoration in Warren, Ohio restore it for a second time to as original. Darrell, Way to go! If you are a member of the 6-pack or the Triumph forum, post some photos! If the weather was a bit warmer and drier up here in central NY, I would be right behind you with my 72 TR6 restoration. Just a few things to go and I will be driving my 3rd Triumph. I chose the do it yourself. Still paying for my 3 girls college and 2 weddings! Bob _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/apackard68 at att.net From Jgk423 at aol.com Thu May 5 14:23:09 2011 From: Jgk423 at aol.com (Jgk423 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 16:23:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Su needles for TR6 Message-ID: <232d4.4c085762.3af4612c@aol.com> Hi, Been awhile since I've posted. About 15 years ago I converted to HS6 SU's. They came set up for TR6 by Ted Schumacher with ZH needles (from Volvo 122S, I think) and red springs and that's worked fine for me. My engine has stock cam, intake manifold reworked a la Kastner's performance manual, ported and cc'd head, +.020 cylinders, tube header and free flow exhaust. A few years later I helped a pal install an SU conversion sourced from Joe Curto of NYC, who is one of the best on constant depression carbs. Don't know what he might be using now, but on that setup he used the stock needles for the HD SU on the Austin Healey 3000, Mk III. Can't remember what springs were used. This TR6 was bone stock. They worked just fine. Jim From bratt at sasktel.net Thu May 5 18:48:46 2011 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Thu, 05 May 2011 18:48:46 -0600 Subject: [6pack] anyone need a Stag? References: <201105050736.16337.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <376020.68019.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <004101cc0b87$5b3c9810$6401a8c0@CHALKIESCOMPUTER> This ad appeared on Ontario Kijiji, just thought It was my duty to pass it on. http://ontario.kijiji.ca/c-cars-vehicles-classic-cars-Rare-1971-Triumph-Stag-Sports-Car-W0QQAdIdZ280266771 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu May 5 19:33:48 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 06 May 2011 01:33:48 GMT Subject: [6pack] Lowering a TR6/TR250 Message-ID: PG---Lowering the body height of the rear of the car -could- be done as you thought, by cutting or heating the springs. This is old school, tho, and better ways are available. On the TRs there's not much distance between the bump rubber and that part of the body that the rubber can contact, so ideally one wants to come up with the proper spring rate and spring height to get the optimum setting. Know that just going to a shorter spring, OR one with less rate, will also change the camber from where it is now (to more negative, or tire top lean-in). If you now have a lot of Positive camber, then going to a shorter spring may give the results you want. You might have to swap the brackets around, if not satisfied with the camber. Many on the List like the Goodparts adjustable brackets, when trying to get this goal. Dick -----Original Message----- From: PG Sent: Wednesday, May 4, 2011 3:25 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Lowering a TR6/TR250 I installed new springs in my TR250 a few years ago. At that time, the car sat high in the rear and I thought that over time the springs would relax.however, this has not happened. How do you lower the rear of a TR250? Is it simply cutting the springs down? _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From paradigm_inc at comcast.net Thu May 5 23:12:46 2011 From: paradigm_inc at comcast.net (Jim Hinckley) Date: Thu, 5 May 2011 22:12:46 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lug nuts for Panasport wheels Message-ID: <001201cc0bac$3d487160$b7d95420$@net> To those who have Panasport wheels, where did you get your lug nuts? Thanks. From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Fri May 6 14:06:38 2011 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 16:06:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Su needles for TR6 Message-ID: <380-2201155620638993@earthlink.net> Hello Jim, Thanks for the note. Jeff at Paltech uses the SM needle from a TR4 on his TR6 conversions, and Moss sells their SU conversion with a BAD needle, which seems to be a bit leaner. The Healey needle for an early 2912cc 6-cylinder is CV, which is not far from the TR4 needle. Your ZH is the leanest of the bunch, just slightly leaner than the BAD for stock TR6's from Moss. Cheers, Tom Hi, Been awhile since I've posted. About 15 years ago I converted to HS6 SU's. They came set up for TR6 by Ted Schumacher with ZH needles (from Volvo 122S, I think) and red springs and that's worked fine for me. My engine has stock cam, intake manifold reworked a la Kastner's performance manual, ported and cc'd head, +.020 cylinders, tube header and free flow exhaust. A few years later I helped a pal install an SU conversion sourced from Joe Curto of NYC, who is one of the best on constant depression carbs. Don't know what he might be using now, but on that setup he used the stock needles for the HD SU on the Austin Healey 3000, Mk III. Can't remember what springs were used. This TR6 was bone stock. They worked just fine. Jim From Jgk423 at aol.com Sat May 7 12:39:20 2011 From: Jgk423 at aol.com (Jgk423 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 May 2011 14:39:20 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 87 Message-ID: <11c768.6c0a39aa.3af6ebd8@aol.com> Hi Tom, You've jogged my memory. I was wrong about needles from the AH 3000 MkIII. Joe Curto was using the CV needles from earlier AH 6 cylinder models. This was over 10 years ago, since then he may have found something he likes better. Hope I didn't lead anyone down the proverbial garden path. Jim ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Fri, 6 May 2011 16:06:38 -0400 From: "Tomislav Marincic" Subject: Re: [6pack] Su needles for TR6 To: Jgk423 at aol.com, "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <380-2201155620638993 at earthlink.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hello Jim, Thanks for the note. ...The Healey needle for an early 2912cc 6-cylinder is CV, which is not far from the TR4 needle. Your ZH is the leanest of the bunch, just slightly leaner than the BAD for stock TR6's from Moss. Cheers, Tom ************************************ From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun May 8 12:35:32 2011 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 11:35:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Plugs and gap Message-ID: <887058.3332.qm@web161207.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> We've no doubt been here before but I'm looking for advise soooo. I'm going to get new plugs and wires and wanted the benefit of the list's wisdom. I'm currently running NGK BP6ES plugs with a gap of .030. My car has an S2 cam, around 9.5 to 1 compression and I have a recently rebuilt dizzy with petronix and the blue Bosch coil that the dizzy rebuilder (sorry, I can't recall his name but he did a great job) recommended. The wires aren't that old and I'm on the fence about replacing them as Magnecor wires are usually pretty reliable. The question is what plugs and gaps are recommended for the above setup and is there a general ohms reading for lengths of plug wires (7MM I think). Of better yet if there is a link that addresses my questions please give it to me. TIA and cheers. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun May 8 14:09:37 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 08 May 2011 20:09:37 GMT Subject: [6pack] Discount Car Parts Stuff - Car Accessories & Truck Accessories - Cheap Auto Parts - Car Cover - Floor Mats - Cargo Liner - spark plug wires - 1970 Triumph TR6 Spark Plug Wire Message-ID: Mike---Here's a link to many of the top brands of wires for the TR6. (I chose the "Taylor" brand..in red, of course!) Sally or Dick Taylor has sent you the following web link: http://www.car-stuff.com/store/index.php?N=11809%204294962131%201726&Ntt=spar k%20plug%20wires&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Main&Nty=1&Ne= From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun May 8 14:14:31 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 08 May 2011 20:14:31 GMT Subject: [6pack] Discount Car Parts Stuff - Car Accessories & Truck Accessories - Cheap Auto Parts - Car Cover - Floor Mats - Cargo Liner - spark plug wires - 1970 Triumph TR6 Spark Plug Wire Message-ID: Sally or Dick Taylor has sent you the following web link: http://www.car-stuff.com/store/index.php?N=11809%204294962131%201726&Ntt=spar k%20plug%20wires&Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Ntk=Main&Nty=1&Ne= From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sun May 8 17:52:53 2011 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sun, 8 May 2011 16:52:53 -0700 Subject: [6pack] MG-TC Message-ID: One of our members has decided to sell or trade his '47 TC and would like to upgrade (?) to maybe a TF. This is an older restoration that looks presentable and runs great. Anyone out there know of someone looking for a nice driver TC? Contact me for more information: Bill Wellbaum '75 TR-6 '71 Norton From mark at bradakis.com Sun May 8 19:41:03 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 08 May 2011 19:41:03 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Plugs and gap In-Reply-To: <887058.3332.qm@web161207.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <887058.3332.qm@web161207.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4DC7462F.4020400@bradakis.com> The NGK plugs work well, with the Pertronix you can go to a gap of 35 thou, no problem. mjb. From Jgk423 at aol.com Sun May 8 23:10:28 2011 From: Jgk423 at aol.com (Jgk423 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 01:10:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 88 SU needles Message-ID: <200c6f.5aff61a2.3af8d144@aol.com> Hi Tom, Things from years ago keep popping up in memory. My recollection on CV vs. ZH needles is that one is richer at the low end and the other is richer at the high end. I can't remember which is which, but for a bone stock TR6 or for my slightly modified TR6 that still has a stock cam, either works pretty darn well. In both cases I mentioned, HS6 carbs with adjustable jets were used, which I'm thinking may make up for some of the differences in needles. In my case, minor engine mods and ZH needles has yielded gas mileage in the low to mid 20's, similar to what I was getting with all else equal except running stock carbs. I can't really say that I'm getting more power or better acceleration from the SU's, that would be seat of the pants judgement influenced no doubt by the happy noise of the header and Dynomax mufflers, but I am for sure having fun with the combination of all factors, and no issues other than those crappy rotors that have been superceded by the red ones. Jim Hi Tom, You've jogged my memory. I was wrong about needles from the AH 3000 MkIII. Joe Curto was using the CV needles from earlier AH 6 cylinder models. This was over 10 years ago, since then he may have found something he likes better. Hope I didn't lead anyone down the proverbial garden path. Jim From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon May 9 14:39:27 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 13:39:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection Message-ID: <956276.45889.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I have TR5 280 cam, 9.5 head etc. I was looking for BAEs as that seems popular in UK for HS6 conversions, however Curto didn't have any at the time, so he sent BAWs if memory serves, which were used on early 70s XJ6. I've good power, but its thirsty. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From v.navarrette at comcast.net Mon May 9 16:21:43 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Mon, 9 May 2011 15:21:43 -0700 Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection In-Reply-To: <956276.45889.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <956276.45889.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001cc0e97$7a966930$6fc33b90$@navarrette@comcast.net> Bruce: That is the cost of the TR5 cam, with its tight lobe centers. Both valves are open for a significant amount of time, which allows the intake charge to push the exhaust gases out of the cylinder. This makes for an uncontaminated intake charge and good power, but a portion of the intake charge gets blown out of the exhaust before the exhaust valve closes. Hits economy pretty hard as you have seen, and emissions go through the roof. The unburned intake charge shows up in the exhaust gasses as hydrocarbons (HC). Modern cams use wider lobe centers and about 10 degrees more timing on the exhaust than the intake, which avoids these problems. The TR5 cam may be very old school, but no one was ever disappointed with the power. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, May 09, 2011 1:39 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection I have TR5 280 cam, 9.5 head etc. Good power, but its thirsty. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From clancy36 at comcast.net Mon May 9 19:23:04 2011 From: clancy36 at comcast.net (clancy36 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 01:23:04 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] serpentine belt system topic In-Reply-To: <1136571174.59617.1304990575519.JavaMail.root@sz0038a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1602175000.59629.1304990584631.JavaMail.root@sz0038a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> does anybody know if moss sells the serpentine belt components to their super charger kit separately ? i'm doing a completely hidden vintage a/c-heat system in a six i'm building, sure would be trick to run a single belt. i'm pretty sure patton up there in maine runs a serpentine with his TBI setup. any info on this topic would be appreciated thanks dan From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue May 10 09:09:19 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 08:09:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection In-Reply-To: <000001cc0e97$7a966930$6fc33b90$@navarrette@comcast.net> References: <956276.45889.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <000001cc0e97$7a966930$6fc33b90$@navarrette@comcast.net> Message-ID: <243827.5836.qm@web65605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Thanks Vance. That was educational for me. Bruce Simms ________________________________ From: Vance Navarrette To: Bruce Simms ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, May 9, 2011 4:21:43 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] SU Needle Selection Bruce: That is the cost of the TR5 cam, with its tight lobe centers. Both valves are open for a significant amount of time, which allows the intake charge to push the exhaust gases out of the cylinder. This makes for an uncontaminated intake charge and good power, but a portion of the intake charge gets blown out of the exhaust before the exhaust valve closes. Hits economy pretty hard as you have seen, and emissions go through the roof. The unburned intake charge shows up in the exhaust gasses as hydrocarbons (HC). Modern cams use wider lobe centers and about 10 degrees more timing on the exhaust than the intake, which avoids these problems. The TR5 cam may be very old school, but no one was ever disappointed with the power. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, May 09, 2011 1:39 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection I have TR5 280 cam, 9.5 head etc. Good power, but its thirsty. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue May 10 12:59:45 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 10 May 2011 18:59:45 GMT Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection Message-ID: Bruce---A couple of years ago I ended up using the BAG needles in a friend's HS6-SUs. He also had an 02 sensor in the down pipe, and an air-fuel monitor in the cockpit, which is very informative when it comes to trying out for the better needles. His a/f monitor typically reads in the 14.2:1 ratio. at all engine speeds. ALL is the key word here, as one can usually find needles that will give decent performance at idle or above, but can be either too lean or rich thruout the range. The BAGs are lightly richer than the stock TR setup, but this is where it likes to run with the Goodparts cam and 9.3:1 CR. The difference between your engine and his is your "longer" S-2 cam. Want to try these needles? (About $25/pair at the time). Without the monitor, you'll still have to use other methods to adjust the jet heights at idle. But one can get pretty close, when the needle selection is in the ball park. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, May 9, 2011 1:39 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection I have TR5 280 cam, 9.5 head etc. I was looking for BAEs as that seems popular in UK for HS6 conversions, however Curto didn't have any at the time, so he sent BAWs if memory serves, which were used on early 70s XJ6. I've good power, but its thirsty. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6driver at yahoo.com Wed May 11 12:42:01 2011 From: tr6driver at yahoo.com (Jamie Palmer) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 11:42:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] SU needles (but with a twist...) Message-ID: <635023.99910.qm@web114705.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> So...discussion has been around HS6's. RiffRAF Racing has borrowed a set of H8's (I think they are called HD8's?) of unknown origin and are rebuilding those to go on our TR6 ChumpCar. (see http://www.chumpcar.com if you're wondering what I'm talking about). So...has anyone picked a set of needles for H8's, rather than H6's? Recommendations? Remember, this is a race car, so idle is unimportant and fuel consumption is only of minor importance. Engine is almost completely stock, may have a cam similar to the G2 cam but not sure (cam was given to us, undetermined origin). I realize this isn't optimal info to start with but it's what we have... Thanks in advance! Jamie Palmer Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed May 11 14:07:33 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 13:07:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection Message-ID: <151939.49739.qm@web65606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Thanks Dick. Berry Price emailed to say he gets 26 MPG on freeway with similar mods and BAG needles. With this and Vance's explanation, I conclude I'm paying a mileage and emissions penalty with the TR5 cam. No emissions test in my area. I may try the BAG needles, but its likely not my biggest issue. My plugs have okay colour. I have a ColorTune for setting mixture. My cam grinder said that this was the performance re-grind he could give me with my earlier stock cam. In retrospect I should have done more research and spent the extra $ for a brand new cam with a more modern profile. Next rebuild. In defence of the PI cam I will say that all heck starts to breaks loose about 2600 rpm! Bruce Simms 73 TR6 ________________________________ From: Sally or Dick Taylor To: Bruce Simms ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, May 10, 2011 12:59:45 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] SU Needle Selection Bruce---A couple of years ago I ended up using the BAG needles in a friend's HS6-SUs. He also had an 02 sensor in the down pipe, and an air-fuel monitor in the cockpit, which is very informative when it comes to trying out for the better needles. His a/f monitor typically reads in the 14.2:1 ratio. at all engine speeds. ALL is the key word here, as one can usually find needles that will give decent performance at idle or above, but can be either too lean or rich thruout the range. The BAGs are lightly richer than the stock TR setup, but this is where it likes to run with the Goodparts cam and 9.3:1 CR. The difference between your engine and his is your "longer" S-2 cam. Want to try these needles? (About $25/pair at the time). Without the monitor, you'll still have to use other methods to adjust the jet heights at idle. But one can get pretty close, when the needle selection is in the ball park. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, May 9, 2011 1:39 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] SU Needle Selection I have TR5 280 cam, 9.5 head etc. I was looking for BAEs as that seems popular in UK for HS6 conversions, however Curto didn't have any at the time, so he sent BAWs if memory serves, which were used on early 70s XJ6. I've good power, but its thirsty. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed May 11 14:29:14 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 11 May 2011 20:29:14 GMT Subject: [6pack] SU needles (but with a twist...) Message-ID: Jamie---I answered your post once, but it never showed up on the List. I'll shorten it this time. The HD8 is a two inch carburetor, so a poor match for the 1.75 intake manifold on the TR6 engine. There is a wide selection of needles for the HD8 if one wanted to experiment. Start by noting the differences between the needle diameters and jets for the stock B1AF thruout the operating range. Then try to match this to the needles available for the 8 and its (.125) jet. Big job, small reward. Two HD8s are way too much carburetion for the stock, or near stock 6. Dick Running one HD8 -----Original Message----- From: Jamie Palmer Sent: Wednesday, May 11, 2011 11:42 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] SU needles (but with a twist...) So...discussion has been around HS6's. RiffRAF Racing has borrowed a set of H8's (I think they are called HD8's?) of unknown origin and are rebuilding those to go on our TR6 ChumpCar. (see http://www.chumpcar.com if you're wondering what I'm talking about). So...has anyone picked a set of needles for H8's, rather than H6's? Recommendations? Remember, this is a race car, so idle is unimportant and fuel consumption is only of minor importance. Engine is almost completely stock, may have a cam similar to the G2 cam but not sure (cam was given to us, undetermined origin). I realize this isn't optimal info to start with but it's what we have... Thanks in advance! Jamie Palmer Squadron Leader, RiffRAF Racing _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From ambritts at bellsouth.net Thu May 12 05:01:28 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:01:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Message-ID: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 Alex From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 12 05:41:18 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:41:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> Message-ID: <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> There's two NAPA Gold that fit. The 1516 fits most cars and the 1361 is a little shorter in case the frame interferes. Here's the complete list: AC PF-56 AC PF952 (short) AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A Bosch 72-143 Bosch 72129 (short) Bosch 72161 CarQuest 85516 Champion C104 (short) Crosland 529 (short) Fram PH3512 (short) Fram PH-3600 (Fram PH-3614) Full PH-400 Halfords HOF200 (short) K&N HP-2009 Kralinator L38 Lee LF-42 Mann W719/36 Mobil-1 M1-209 Moss 235-950 Motaquip VFL123 (short) Motorcraft FL-276 Motorcraft FL-313 (short) Motorcraft FL400A NAPA Gold 1516 NAPA Gold 1361 Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101) Purolator L20064 Purolator L20195 Sears 45197 STP SO-400 Unipart GFE173 (short) Unipart GFE443 Wix 51335 (short) Wix 51516 -----Original Message----- From: Alex Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:01 AM To: *Triumphs List ; *Six Pack Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 Alex _______________________________________________ From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu May 12 06:00:53 2011 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 08:00:53 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> Message-ID: I show NAPA Gold 1516 on a note I have. I have not used it and I don't know source of the reference. Regards, Bob -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:01 AM To: *Triumphs List; *Six Pack Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 Alex _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu May 12 06:15:56 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 12:15:56 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC>, <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> Message-ID: Original # 1313 for me, but that's not what you asked. You can always count on NAPA to have 1 of the original in stock. Sloane :) 69-Six > From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > To: ambritts at bellsouth.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:41:18 -0400 > Subject: Re: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter > > There's two NAPA Gold that fit. The 1516 fits most cars and the 1361 is a > little shorter in case the frame interferes. From dave at ranteer.com Thu May 12 06:40:46 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:40:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> Message-ID: the napa guy told me that wix makes the napa filters; drop the first # from the wix and you have the napa #, although that doesn't seem entirely consistent with the list here -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 6:41 AM To: Alex ; *Triumphs List ; *Six Pack ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter There's two NAPA Gold that fit. The 1516 fits most cars and the 1361 is a little shorter in case the frame interferes. Here's the complete list: AC PF-56 AC PF952 (short) AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A Bosch 72-143 Bosch 72129 (short) Bosch 72161 CarQuest 85516 Champion C104 (short) Crosland 529 (short) Fram PH3512 (short) Fram PH-3600 (Fram PH-3614) Full PH-400 Halfords HOF200 (short) K&N HP-2009 Kralinator L38 Lee LF-42 Mann W719/36 Mobil-1 M1-209 Moss 235-950 Motaquip VFL123 (short) Motorcraft FL-276 Motorcraft FL-313 (short) Motorcraft FL400A NAPA Gold 1516 NAPA Gold 1361 Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101) Purolator L20064 Purolator L20195 Sears 45197 STP SO-400 Unipart GFE173 (short) Unipart GFE443 Wix 51335 (short) Wix 51516 From j.honor at comcast.net Thu May 12 07:56:30 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 08:56:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> Message-ID: <001901cc10ac$6f478840$4dd698c0$@comcast.net> Dave, it cross matches I know with a WIX 51516, or Purolator L20195; I have also been hearing very good info about Mann filters as NAPA is going more & more with cheaper imports that may be impacting their gold statndard-Regards, Joe This email message and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s). They are confidential and may contain protected health information that is exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the above named intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver this email to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, disclosure, printing, copying, or distribution of this email or attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by telephone or reply email and destroy this email and any attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 7:41 AM To: *Six Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter the napa guy told me that wix makes the napa filters; drop the first # from the wix and you have the napa #, although that doesn't seem entirely consistent with the list here -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 6:41 AM To: Alex ; *Triumphs List ; *Six Pack ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter There's two NAPA Gold that fit. The 1516 fits most cars and the 1361 is a little shorter in case the frame interferes. Here's the complete list: AC PF-56 AC PF952 (short) AC Delco Ultraguard Gold UPFL-400A Bosch 72-143 Bosch 72129 (short) Bosch 72161 CarQuest 85516 Champion C104 (short) Crosland 529 (short) Fram PH3512 (short) Fram PH-3600 (Fram PH-3614) Full PH-400 Halfords HOF200 (short) K&N HP-2009 Kralinator L38 Lee LF-42 Mann W719/36 Mobil-1 M1-209 Moss 235-950 Motaquip VFL123 (short) Motorcraft FL-276 Motorcraft FL-313 (short) Motorcraft FL400A NAPA Gold 1516 NAPA Gold 1361 Purolator L10101 (short) (was PER 101) Purolator L20064 Purolator L20195 Sears 45197 STP SO-400 Unipart GFE173 (short) Unipart GFE443 Wix 51335 (short) Wix 51516 _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Manage your account: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/j.honor at comcast.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu May 12 12:58:16 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 14:58:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Napa Oil Filter In-Reply-To: <001901cc10ac$6f478840$4dd698c0$@comcast.net> References: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1@AlexPC> <6F7D5080E0F64E13992A93E451685757@BobPC> <001901cc10ac$6f478840$4dd698c0$@comcast.net> Message-ID: <9613A4575F594B6B95371BF473B3E032@BobPC> Regarding the statement below ".........NAPA is going more & more with cheaper imports that may be impacting their gold". I checked with Rick Patton (TA Repair Kit, Fan Eliminator Kit, TBI Kit) who owned two NAPA stores before retiring last year. Rick told me that NAPA Gold is still made by WIX but the ProSelect & NASCAR line are not made by WIX and are lower priced. So let's not lump the Gold filter in with the other two. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Joe Honor Sent: Thursday, May 12, 2011 9:56 AM To: 'Dave' ; '*Six Pack' ; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Dave, it cross matches I know with a WIX 51516, or Purolator L20195; I have also been hearing very good info about Mann filters as NAPA is going more & more with cheaper imports that may be impacting their gold statndard-Regards, Joe From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Wed May 18 23:48:41 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 01:48:41 EDT Subject: [TR2000] Idle By Pass Diaphragms Message-ID: <14e95.6eeab6e7.3b060939@aol.com> Does anyone know if the idle by-pass valves are the same for the CD 175 and the CD 150 Stromberg carbs? TIA Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs From charly at mitchelplumbing.com Thu May 19 12:07:26 2011 From: charly at mitchelplumbing.com (Charly Mitchel) Date: Thu, 19 May 2011 11:07:26 -0700 Subject: [TR2000] Idle By Pass Diaphragms References: <14e95.6eeab6e7.3b060939@aol.com> Message-ID: <22DC0B09B9C84CF1BE1811A0FF952581@Charly> This may have the answer you're looking for. http://www.sucarb.co.uk/ProductCategory.aspx?ParentId=24 Charly Mitchel ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: Sent: Wednesday, May 18, 2011 10:48 PM Subject: [TR2000] Idle By Pass Diaphragms > Does anyone know if the idle by-pass valves are the same for the CD 175 > and > the CD 150 Stromberg carbs? > > TIA > Sam Clark > Green Country Triumphs > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/charly at mitchelplumbing.com From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 30 15:12:35 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 15:12:35 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Happy Decoration Day Message-ID: <4DE40843.6050008@bradakis.com> Supposedly the start of summer in the temperate zones. Why was it snowing at 4 am in Salt Lake? mjb. From colinthom at shaw.ca Mon May 30 16:57:15 2011 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 15:57:15 -0700 Subject: [6pack] shifting hot Message-ID: <001201cc1f1c$eb4d2a70$c1e77f50$@ca> Hi gang, The car's running like a top. But. After about an hour of city driving it gets really hard to put it into first gear at a dead stop. This doesn't happen at every red light, but most. Trying other gears first is almost as bad and doesn't seem to make it any easier to get it into 1st. Once rolling, shifting is fine. Gear oil level is fine, OD works fine. Clutch master and slave (sleeved) are both new-ish from Apple Hydraulics..a few hundred miles on them at most. Fluid is silicone, no discoloration or evidence of seal degradation. As I said.only happens after a stretch of city driving. Everything's fine when it's not hot. Any ideas? Thanks. Colin '75 From mark at bradakis.com Mon May 30 19:45:26 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 30 May 2011 19:45:26 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Sigh Message-ID: <4DE44836.8040007@bradakis.com> I love computers. Sometimes they provide hours of amusement. mjb. From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue May 31 07:01:33 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 09:01:33 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Radiator Shop Message-ID: Hi, I apparently buggered my upper radiator outlet on my radiator as I couldn't get it to stop weeping the other day. I hauled the rad out and you guessed it, there a dent in the "nipple". In any case, I figure it's been 10 years or so since I had the rad checked, so I hauled it over to Rogers Radiator in Medford, MA for a look see. I walk in and the guy says: "Triumph TR, right?". Pretty much made my day. l8r, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue May 31 10:34:55 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 16:34:55 GMT Subject: [6pack] shifting hot Message-ID: Colin---The symptoms you describe sounds like you have air in the clutch operating system. When this air gets hot, it expands and pushes some hydraulic fluid back into the master cylinder. This air now compresses and doesn't give the necessary motion to disenage the clutch. Bleed the system. Ordinarily, when both clutch cylinders are in good shape, problem with disengagement is from excess play in the pedal box. If you have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to shift gears, even when things are relatively cool, then take a look at removing the slop in this linkage. There's always a chance of a broken fork pin, and worn/missing crank thrust washers, but your pointing to the "hot condition" as the culprit makes bleeding out the air the first step. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Colin Thom Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:57 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] shifting hot Hi gang, The car's running like a top. But. After about an hour of city driving it gets really hard to put it into first gear at a dead stop. This doesn't happen at every red light, but most. Trying other gears first is almost as bad and doesn't seem to make it any easier to get it into 1st. Once rolling, shifting is fine. Gear oil level is fine, OD works fine. Clutch master and slave (sleeved) are both new-ish from Apple Hydraulics..a few hundred miles on them at most. Fluid is silicone, no discoloration or evidence of seal degradation. As I said.only happens after a stretch of city driving. Everything's fine when it's not hot. Any ideas? Thanks. Colin '75 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Tue May 31 10:57:03 2011 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 10:57:03 -0600 Subject: [6pack] shifting hot In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <01b601cc1fb3$c54e45b0$4fead110$@edu> I just sold my '72 TR6. I have to get it from Las Cruces, New Mexico (think El Paso, Texas) to Islip, Long Island. Can anyone recommend either for or against a shipper? Buyer is doing the shipping, but I told him I would ask around. Thanks! Kevin Ex CC82183U -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Tuesday, May 31, 2011 10:35 AM To: Colin Thom; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] shifting hot Colin---The symptoms you describe sounds like you have air in the clutch operating system. When this air gets hot, it expands and pushes some hydraulic fluid back into the master cylinder. This air now compresses and doesn't give the necessary motion to disenage the clutch. Bleed the system. Ordinarily, when both clutch cylinders are in good shape, problem with disengagement is from excess play in the pedal box. If you have to push the pedal all the way to the floor to shift gears, even when things are relatively cool, then take a look at removing the slop in this linkage. There's always a chance of a broken fork pin, and worn/missing crank thrust washers, but your pointing to the "hot condition" as the culprit makes bleeding out the air the first step. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Colin Thom Sent: Monday, May 30, 2011 3:57 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] shifting hot Hi gang, The car's running like a top. But. After about an hour of city driving it gets really hard to put it into first gear at a dead stop. This doesn't happen at every red light, but most. Trying other gears first is almost as bad and doesn't seem to make it any easier to get it into 1st. Once rolling, shifting is fine. Gear oil level is fine, OD works fine. Clutch master and slave (sleeved) are both new-ish from Apple Hydraulics..a few hundred miles on them at most. Fluid is silicone, no discoloration or evidence of seal degradation. As I said.only happens after a stretch of city driving. Everything's fine when it's not hot. Any ideas? Thanks. Colin '75 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From gaf3 at charter.net Tue May 31 13:05:00 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 31 May 2011 15:05:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Cam Timing Degree Specs Message-ID: <4DE53BDC.2020807@charter.net> Hi I putting a late model 74 TR6 back together after a rebuild. I'm attempting to time the cam. This one has no marks on the gears since it had been replaced. I have the degree wheel set up but I'm having difficulty finding the cam specs for a stock TR6 Cam? And if found what amount of lift does the specs relate to (.050"??) on this engine. Can anyone out there point me in the right direction. The head has not been installed and I have the degree wheel set and the dial indicator taking measurements off the pushrod. Thanks in advance Glenn From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Fri May 13 05:41:55 2011 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 11:41:55 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter Message-ID: I use NAPA GOLD 1374, different than what others have posted. It is short enough to avoid interference with stuff in the vicinity of the spin-on oil filter converter. I assume all of them have a high-pressure bypass valve. See http://www.vfrworld.com/tex_vfr/tech/filters.htm written for motorcycles, but has some good points for cars. Jerry '74 TR6 Mallard Green Date: Thu, 12 May 2011 07:01:28 -0400 From: "Alex" Subject: [6pack] Napa Oil Filter To: "*Triumphs List" , "*Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <6D8BB91C8E654BBBAF036B461AD80BD1 at AlexPC> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Can't find my notes on the oil filter number for the canister conversion for the NAPA Gold filter. Anyone have the number off the top of their head? Not sure this matters, but it would be for a 72 -TR6 Alex From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Fri May 13 12:28:35 2011 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Fri, 13 May 2011 18:28:35 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Spare tires for 16" Panasports In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob Danielson uses a 15" wheel with the TR6 bolt pattern from a Honda Accord wagon "donut". Anyone else tried this with their 16" Panasports? Some have said that dry rotted donuts from junk yards are unsafe. Anyone used the gunk with a pressurized can successfully for flat tires? Tire shops says this stuff voids tire warranties. Any guidance would be appreciated. Would like to lighten up the trunk a bit. Jerry Shaw '74 TR6 From jmcoh at comcast.net Sat May 14 20:41:26 2011 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 02:41:26 -0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wiring Question Message-ID: <150E9A154C5F4502916BF15EF5793FEA@COHEN1> I currently have an Advance Auto Wire headlight relay kit to power two Hella H4's. This year, I am adding an Advance Auto Wire auxiliary fuse panel to power two Hella driving lights that will run off the relay and two lighter sockets, which will be always hot, to power a GPS and cell phone charger. My question is that if I currently have a single heavy guage yellow wire running to the battery terminal of the starter solenoid, can I tap into that wire to power the auxiliary fuse panel or must I run a separate hot wire to that same terminal? I have a stock alternator on a 1976 TR6. John Cohen Rutland VT From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun May 15 13:56:14 2011 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 15 May 2011 19:56:14 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Screw on Oil filter adapter Message-ID: <1E91E488C72043D69F4DF734E350CE19@AlexPC> I have a friend with a MGA who was changing the canister on his screw type oil filter adapter and the whole unit came off. When he put it back together, he thought he had the "O" rings in properly. But apparently not, as he has leaks. Does anyone know the proper orientation of the "O" rings for the filter housing that bolts to the engine block. I would assume they are all the same for each marque. Thanks, Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A