From mark at bradakis.com Wed Jun 1 20:03:06 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Wed, 01 Jun 2011 20:03:06 -0600 Subject: [6pack] What the ... Message-ID: <4DE6EF5A.8050400@bradakis.com> Still having troubles with this list, the only one left with serious issues. Looking into it. mjb. From janah at att.net Thu Jun 2 06:38:17 2011 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Thu, 2 Jun 2011 08:38:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Distributors? Message-ID: Hi All- Will a distributor from a TR250 fit into a TR6? John Cyg From lists at brits-n-pieces.com Thu Jun 2 10:59:57 2011 From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists) Date: 2 Jun 2011 18:59:57 +0200 Subject: [6pack] =?utf-8?q?Distributors=3F?= Message-ID: John, maybe! There are 2 different types of 22D6 distributors for the 6 cylinder Triumphs. They differ in the form of the drive dog. One has the two pegs to the same length as the shaft, the other one has a longer shaft than the two pegs are. Eric bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb Von John Cyganowski [janah at att.net] An [6pack at autox.team.net] CC Datum 02.06.2011 14:47:36 Betreff [6pack] Distributors? bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb Hi All- Will a distributor from a TR250 fit into a TR6? John Cyg ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lists at brits-n-pieces.com . From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Jun 4 04:30:30 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 04 Jun 2011 06:30:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Cam Timing Degree Specs In-Reply-To: <4DE65F14.3040104@pobox.com> References: <4DE53BDC.2020807@charter.net> <4DE65F14.3040104@pobox.com> Message-ID: <4DEA0946.7060502@charter.net> Thanks to all for the feedback on cam timing specs. The cam checked out at both .010" and .050" lift to the specs you all provided and with the intake at 110 deg ATDC of full lift. Thanks for the Help! Glenn On 6/1/2011 11:47 AM, Larry Young wrote: > The best way to set up a cam is to use the intake center, i.e. point > of highest lift. It should be 110 ATC for this cam. (the average of > 18 BTC and 58 ABC). Look at my webpage on degreeing a cam - > http://www.tildentechnologies.com/Cams/Tips_Takes.html There is also > a spreadsheet you can download. > > Richard, the reason for the difference between .007 and .010 is what I > call "valve train squish", i.e. the amount of compression in the valve > train due to the springs. Integral cams listed the 0.050 specs at 210 > also. > Larry > > On 5/31/2011 9:27 PM, Richard Good wrote: >> Glenn, >> >> The timing specs for the late TR6 cam are: >> >> Intake open 18 deg BTDC, close 58 deg ABDC >> Exhaust open 58 deg BBDC, close 18 deg ATDC >> >> I believe these timing specs are supposed to be point of >> opening/closing. If that is the case, with valve clearance spec of >> .010" at the valve, the tappet has to move .010" divided by rocker >> ratio of 1.45:1 = .007" before the valve starts opening. So you >> should be able to time to these specs at .007" of tappet lift. Stock >> cams I have checked appear to have this advertised duration at about >> .010" tappet lift so you may have to go to .010" to get these timing >> points to hold out. >> >> I have never seen .050" timing specs for the stock cam but the ones I >> have checked appear to have about 210 deg duration at .050" so the >> timing specs would be: >> >> Intake open 5 deg ATDC, close 35 deg ABDC >> Exhaust open 35 deg BBDC, close 5 deg BTDC >> >> Regards, >> Richard Good >> Good Parts Inc. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jun 4 16:15:19 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 18:15:19 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs In-Reply-To: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com> References: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com> Message-ID: Herebs a very simple but effective cup holder http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Cup%20Holder.htm Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs From: TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 4:52 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs Hey Folks, Beverly, my wife & ace navigator is sort of big time frustrated. She likes my Triumphs but insists that the major flaw in all of them is the absence of suitable Cup Holders! I usually give her my cup to hold whilst I am running thru the gears and there she sits hers & mine in hand not only navigating but cup holding as well. More often than not one or both cups get spilled on the carpet. It happened this morning as we took off in the 250 to join our fellow NCTA members for a drive to Mary Yoders for lunch and a tour of Ohio's Amish Country. I am posting this request on her behalf. What say the List? Do any of you have any cool methods of holding you cups in Triumphs? Thanks in Advance, Darrell ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From broph at sympatico.ca Sat Jun 4 19:03:48 2011 From: broph at sympatico.ca (broph at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 01:03:48 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs In-Reply-To: References: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com>, Message-ID: Here's my take on the problem.... http://www3.sympatico.ca/broph/cupholder.html It's been in the 6 since 2004 and hasn't spilled a drop. Rob Brophy Niagara Falls ON > Herebs a very simple but effective cup holder > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Cup%20Holder.htm > > Bob > Hey Folks, > Beverly, my wife & ace navigator is sort of big time frustrated. She likes my > Triumphs but insists that the major flaw in all of them is the absence of > suitable Cup Holders! I usually give her my cup to hold whilst I am running > thru the gears and there she sits hers & mine in hand not only navigating but > cup holding as well. More often than not one or both cups get spilled on the > carpet. It happened this morning as we took off in the 250 to join our fellow > NCTA members for a drive to Mary Yoders for lunch and a tour of Ohio's Amish > Country. I am posting this request on her behalf. What say the List? Do any > of you have any cool methods of holding you cups in Triumphs? > Thanks in Advance, > Darrell From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jun 4 19:24:54 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 4 Jun 2011 20:24:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] off topic - Tuscaloosa (Alabama) Tornado T shirts - inventory reduction sale In-Reply-To: References: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com>, Message-ID: <139D01964F6147CA92845A467A012750@ranteer.local> Support the relief effort in Tuscaloosa by buying a Tee shirt at www.PrayForTTown.com. My son, Carlton Northrup, a senior at University of Alabama designed these shirts in order to raise funds for the tornado victims a few blocks from his apartment. Too many t-shirts left..2 for 1!!!!!...still time to help the victims in Tuscaloosa!!! From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Sun Jun 5 12:12:20 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 14:12:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs In-Reply-To: References: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com>, , Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0143687C3F41@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Great design. Did you do this? ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of broph at sympatico.ca [broph at sympatico.ca] Sent: Saturday, June 04, 2011 9:03 PM To: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; tr250driver at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: spitfires at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs Here's my take on the problem.... http://www3.sympatico.ca/broph/cupholder.html It's been in the 6 since 2004 and hasn't spilled a drop. Rob Brophy Niagara Falls ON > Herebs a very simple but effective cup holder > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Cup%20Holder.htm > > Bob > Hey Folks, > Beverly, my wife & ace navigator is sort of big time frustrated. She likes my > Triumphs but insists that the major flaw in all of them is the absence of > suitable Cup Holders! I usually give her my cup to hold whilst I am running > thru the gears and there she sits hers & mine in hand not only navigating but > cup holding as well. More often than not one or both cups get spilled on the > carpet. It happened this morning as we took off in the 250 to join our fellow > NCTA members for a drive to Mary Yoders for lunch and a tour of Ohio's Amish > Country. I am posting this request on her behalf. What say the List? Do any > of you have any cool methods of holding you cups in Triumphs? > Thanks in Advance, > Darrell ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sun Jun 5 12:51:15 2011 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 14:51:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs Message-ID: <2C398BB4-E8B0-475B-9B98-1CB7559E6481@nc.rr.com> I've used this folding/adjustable cup-holder for 4-5 years mounted on the pax side of the hump. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUSTABLE-BLACK-FOLDING-CUP-HOLDER-CAR-TRUCK- BOAT-VAN-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b1cf5daeQQitemZ140422110638QQptZMotors Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories It folds away inconspicuously, and it adjusts securely to hold everything from a small styro cup to a big insulated travel mug or bottle. I often keep a ceramic coffee mug in it  that holds a drink bottle or serves as a large-cigar/pipe ashtray (the tonneau cover interferes with the dashboard's ash tray, which won't hold a big cigar or pipe securely, anyway). Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 From broph at sympatico.ca Sun Jun 5 13:58:07 2011 From: broph at sympatico.ca (broph at sympatico.ca) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 19:58:07 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0143687C3F41@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> References: <34220.5b9bc263.3b1bf511@aol.com>, , , , <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0143687C3F41@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> Message-ID: > From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu > > Great design. Did you do this? Thanks! Yes, it's my design and I built it....and several more for folks in the local car club. Feel free to copy the design if it suits you....it's dead simple to build, just some 1/8" steel bent around some pipe scraps and tacked together with the welder. Glad you liked it! Rob > Here's my take on the problem.... > http://www3.sympatico.ca/broph/cupholder.html > > It's been in the 6 since 2004 and hasn't spilled a drop. > > Rob Brophy > Niagara Falls ON From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Jun 5 13:58:36 2011 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 14:58:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs In-Reply-To: <2C398BB4-E8B0-475B-9B98-1CB7559E6481@nc.rr.com> References: <2C398BB4-E8B0-475B-9B98-1CB7559E6481@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: what I have been searching in vain for is one that a friend has - it has a tongue that slides down into the window glass slot and that's what holds it in. anyone seen one of those or know where I can get one?????? Support the relief effort in Tuscaloosa by buying a Tee shirt at www.PrayForTTown.com. My son, Carlton Northrup, a Sr. at University of Alabama designed these shirts in order to raise funds for the tornado victims a few blocks from his apartment. Too many t-shirts left..2 for 1!!!!!...still time to help the victims in Tuscaloosa!!! -------------------------------------------------- From: "Douglas Morris" Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 1:51 PM To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs > I've used this folding/adjustable cup-holder for 4-5 years mounted on the > pax > side of the hump. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUSTABLE-BLACK-FOLDING-CUP-HOLDER-CAR-TRUCK- > BOAT-VAN-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b1cf5daeQQitemZ140422110638QQptZMotors > Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories > It folds away inconspicuously, and it adjusts securely to hold everything > from > a small styro cup to a big insulated travel mug or bottle. > I often keep a ceramic coffee mug in it  that holds a drink bottle or > serves > as a large-cigar/pipe ashtray (the tonneau cover interferes with the > dashboard's ash tray, which won't hold a big cigar or pipe securely, > anyway). > > Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun Jun 5 14:17:49 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 13:17:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Front Hub Spacer kit question Message-ID: <989582.69735.qm@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> B I haveB the hub spacer kit from TRF (w/o up rated stub axles).B B The old bearings are Timken and in good shape, so will be re-used, even though I have new bearing kits from TRF. B Okay, drop spacer into hub, installB inner bearing on race and oil seal on hub.B Install hub on axle.B NO shim, B insert outer bearing into hub,B B D washer, torque castle nut to 50 lbs as per instructions.B Hub spins okay with no real movement fore/aft, up/down.B B B B The other side is stockB B for now, no spacer, castle nut torqued to 10 lbs.B B Bit tighter than the other side, but good I believe.B B Car driven last year like this. B I donbt want to go any looser with hub, so am I okay with NO Shim? B I've also emailed Tony Drews on this. B B Thank you, B Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From StuBeatty at aol.com Sun Jun 5 17:03:03 2011 From: StuBeatty at aol.com (StuBeatty at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Jun 2011 19:03:03 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs Message-ID: I am from Canada and one of our larger Automotive supermarkets sells these. Have a look... _http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/VehicleAccessories/InteriorCarGadgets/PRD~0375344P/Extra%252BLarge%252BCup%252BHolder.jsp ?locale=en_ (http://www.canadiantire.ca/AST/browse/4/Auto/VehicleAccessories/InteriorCarGadgets/PRD~0375344P/Extra%2BLarge%2BCup%2BHolder.jsp?locale=en) I have on older version in my car and they work fine. You just have to remember to remove your cup when you open and close the door. Stuart Beatty 76 Carmine From jimhurle at gmail.com Tue Jun 7 09:07:23 2011 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 11:07:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) Message-ID: Hello, Unfortunately, I find it necessary to point out the lack of technical knowledge concerning TR6's on this list. In a post earlier this week, reference is made to an "ashtray" in the TR6 dash top (see below). Note that the Triumph engineers were at the forefront of the anti-smoking crusade in the late sixties and pointedly did NOT put an "ashtray" into their design. The correct technical name for this item is "Bikini Holder". In the future, please refer to this item correctly. Jim Hurley 8>) From: "Douglas Morris" Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 1:51 PM To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs > I've used this folding/adjustable cup-holder for 4-5 years mounted on the > pax > side of the hump. > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUSTABLE-BLACK-FOLDING-CUP-HOLDER-CAR-TRUCK- > BOAT-VAN-_ W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b1cf5daeQQitemZ140422110638QQptZMotors > Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories > It folds away inconspicuously, and it adjusts securely to hold everything > from > a small styro cup to a big insulated travel mug or bottle. > I often keep a ceramic coffee mug in it that holds a drink bottle or > serves > as a large-cigar/pipe ashtray (the tonneau cover interferes with the > dashboard's ash tray, which won't hold a big cigar or pipe securely, > anyway). From sakirsis at consolidated.net Tue Jun 7 11:03:16 2011 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 12:03:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Sun Visors Message-ID: Hi Gang, Has any-one out there had to replace just the sun-visors themselves on their six? I just received mine from TRF and am afraid of doing damage trying to slide them on the arm which is in place on the car. I can get them on about 6 inches and then run into a stop. Do not want to get frustrated and break them. Any secrets? Thanks Steve Kirsis '70 Damson. From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Jun 7 11:24:32 2011 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 07 Jun 2011 13:24:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sun Visors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I got them from TRF a couple years ago. I had to spin/twist them a bit getting them on the arm. They need to be somewhat tight or they will flop down. Best bet call TRF and ask, maybe something has changed. Regards, Bob -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Kirsis Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 1:03 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Sun Visors Hi Gang, Has any-one out there had to replace just the sun-visors themselves on their six? I just received mine from TRF and am afraid of doing damage trying to slide them on the arm which is in place on the car. I can get them on about 6 inches and then run into a stop. Do not want to get frustrated and break them. Any secrets? Thanks Steve Kirsis '70 Damson. ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Jun 7 11:57:57 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 10:57:57 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Sun Visors StanPart Tool In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Do you visors "flop" are you tired of constantly pushing them back up? Then call this number 898-666-1369 and we will send you StanPart Tool #1524, and call now and we will double your order. OK enough fun, what I did was remove the visor, put a piece of thin stainless safety wire inside the length, jammed them back on the rod, and snipped off the excess ... It works ... and Finally the sun is out in Northern California ... >I got them from TRF a couple years ago. I had to spin/twist them a bit >getting them on the arm. >They need to be somewhat tight or they will flop down. Best bet call TRF and >ask, maybe something has changed. >Regards, >Bob > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From sakirsis at consolidated.net Tue Jun 7 11:59:19 2011 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 12:59:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Sun Visors Message-ID: <4169AB72C6B344BFB40D7C746A2CC031@stevekirsisPC> Solved my problem. Like a dummy I threw the old visors away and with them the inner bars I should have removed from the old visor frame. Oh well, Albert at TRF has 2 new ones on the way. Thanks, Steve Kirsis From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 7 12:55:24 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 14:55:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sun Visors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The easiest least damaging way to keep the TR6 sun visors from flopping is to: remove the visor & rod from the car, pull the visor off of the rod, put a very very slight bend in the rod and put the visor back on. I'm going on 14 years with the visors holding their position since day 1 from when I did that. No damage to the visor from trying the crimp method. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Steve Kirsis Sent: Tuesday, June 07, 2011 1:03 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Sun Visors Hi Gang, Has any-one out there had to replace just the sun-visors themselves on their six? I just received mine from TRF and am afraid of doing damage trying to slide them on the arm which is in place on the car. I can get them on about 6 inches and then run into a stop. Do not want to get frustrated and break them. Any secrets? Thanks Steve Kirsis '70 Damson. ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com Tue Jun 7 14:02:37 2011 From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop) Date: Tue, 7 Jun 2011 16:02:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 06/06/2011 and will not return until 06/10/2011. I will be intermittantly checking my messages while I am out. Please leave me a voicemail at 919-248-5324 or contact Customer Service at 800-284-3382 ext 5775 for sales assistance or to place an order. You can email customer service at : mcmustomerservice at usa.dupont.com Regards, Robert Waldrop This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for transfers of data to third parties. Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html From 75teer6 at gmail.com Wed Jun 8 06:41:12 2011 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 06:41:12 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Jim, Was that an "itsy, bitsy, yellow dot bikini...' that the engineers had in mind? Alternatively, for those (mis)using it as an ashtray, when the top was down it would have been a 'self cleaning' ashtray. It certainly was too small for my smallest pipe. On my previous 1974 TR6 I used it to mount my rearview mirror in order to clear the view below the roll bar. And now some owners hide their GPS/MP3/Bluetooth etc. power supplies and connections in this B... Holder device. Certainly a multi-use apparatus that these engineers designed; definately at the forefront! On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Jim Hurley wrote: > Hello, > > Unfortunately, I find it necessary to point out the lack of technical > knowledge concerning TR6's on this list. > > In a post earlier this week, reference is made to an "ashtray" in the TR6 > dash top (see below). Note that the Triumph engineers were at the forefront > of the anti-smoking crusade in the late sixties and pointedly did NOT put an > "ashtray" into their design. The correct technical name for this item is > "Bikini Holder". > > In the future, please refer to this item correctly. > > Jim Hurley 8>) > > From: "Douglas Morris" Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 1:51 PM > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs > >> I've used this folding/adjustable cup-holder for 4-5 years mounted on the >> pax >> side of the hump. >> > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUSTABLE-BLACK-FOLDING-CUP-HOLDER-CAR-TRUCK- >> BOAT-VAN-_ > W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b1cf5daeQQitemZ140422110638QQptZMotors >> Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories >> It folds away inconspicuously, and it adjusts securely to hold everything >> from >> a small styro cup to a big insulated travel mug or bottle. >> I often keep a ceramic coffee mug in it that holds a drink bottle or >> serves >> as a large-cigar/pipe ashtray (the tonneau cover interferes with the >> dashboard's ash tray, which won't hold a big cigar or pipe securely, >> anyway). > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com > > > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Jun 8 07:46:19 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 08:46:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I use mine to carry change for the toll roads I am fortunate to frequent. Irv Korey On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 7:41 AM, Henri Lefebvre <75teer6 at gmail.com> wrote: > Jim, > > Was that an "itsy, bitsy, yellow dot bikini...' that the engineers had in > mind? > > Alternatively, for those (mis)using it as an ashtray, when the top was > down it would have been a 'self cleaning' ashtray. It certainly was > too small for my smallest pipe. > > On my previous 1974 TR6 I used it to mount my rearview mirror in order > to clear the view below the roll bar. > And now some owners hide their GPS/MP3/Bluetooth etc. power supplies > and connections in this B... Holder device. > Certainly a multi-use apparatus that these engineers designed; > definately at the forefront! > > > > On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Jim Hurley wrote: > > Hello, > > > > Unfortunately, I find it necessary to point out the lack of technical > > knowledge concerning TR6's on this list. > > > > In a post earlier this week, reference is made to an "ashtray" in the TR6 > > dash top (see below). Note that the Triumph engineers were at the > forefront > > of the anti-smoking crusade in the late sixties and pointedly did NOT put > an > > "ashtray" into their design. The correct technical name for this item is > > "Bikini Holder". > > > > In the future, please refer to this item correctly. > > > > Jim Hurley 8>) > > > > From: "Douglas Morris" Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 1:51 PM > > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs > > > >> I've used this folding/adjustable cup-holder for 4-5 years mounted on > the > >> pax > >> side of the hump. > >> > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUSTABLE-BLACK-FOLDING-CUP-HOLDER-CAR-TRUCK- > >> BOAT-VAN-_ > > W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b1cf5daeQQitemZ140422110638QQptZMotors > >> Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories > >> It folds away inconspicuously, and it adjusts securely to hold > everything > >> from > >> a small styro cup to a big insulated travel mug or bottle. > >> I often keep a ceramic coffee mug in it that holds a drink bottle or > >> serves > >> as a large-cigar/pipe ashtray (the tonneau cover interferes with the > >> dashboard's ash tray, which won't hold a big cigar or pipe securely, > >> anyway). > > > > ________________________________________ > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > -- > Henri > 75 TR6, triple webers > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/emanteno at comcast.net From lfm614 at aol.com Wed Jun 8 08:17:37 2011 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 14:17:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1264694675-1307542380-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1551698055-@b1.c20.bise6.blackberry> I installed a 12V cig lighter receptacle in the bottom for power for GPS and Radar detector. When not in use, cover hides it. Lou 72 Pimento -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 08:46:19 To: Henri Lefebvre<75teer6 at gmail.com> Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) I use mine to carry change for the toll roads I am fortunate to frequent. Irv Korey On Wed, Jun 8, 2011 at 7:41 AM, Henri Lefebvre <75teer6 at gmail.com> wrote: > Jim, > > Was that an "itsy, bitsy, yellow dot bikini...' that the engineers had in > mind? > > Alternatively, for those (mis)using it as an ashtray, when the top was > down it would have been a 'self cleaning' ashtray. It certainly was > too small for my smallest pipe. > > On my previous 1974 TR6 I used it to mount my rearview mirror in order > to clear the view below the roll bar. > And now some owners hide their GPS/MP3/Bluetooth etc. power supplies > and connections in this B... Holder device. > Certainly a multi-use apparatus that these engineers designed; > definately at the forefront! > > > > On Tue, Jun 7, 2011 at 9:07 AM, Jim Hurley wrote: > > Hello, > > > > Unfortunately, I find it necessary to point out the lack of technical > > knowledge concerning TR6's on this list. > > > > In a post earlier this week, reference is made to an "ashtray" in the TR6 > > dash top (see below). Note that the Triumph engineers were at the > forefront > > of the anti-smoking crusade in the late sixties and pointedly did NOT put > an > > "ashtray" into their design. The correct technical name for this item is > > "Bikini Holder". > > > > In the future, please refer to this item correctly. > > > > Jim Hurley 8>) > > > > From: "Douglas Morris" Sent: Sunday, June 05, 2011 1:51 PM > > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Cup Holders for Triumphs > > > >> I've used this folding/adjustable cup-holder for 4-5 years mounted on > the > >> pax > >> side of the hump. > >> > > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ADJUSTABLE-BLACK-FOLDING-CUP-HOLDER-CAR-TRUCK- > >> BOAT-VAN-_ > > W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem20b1cf5daeQQitemZ140422110638QQptZMotors > >> Q5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories > >> It folds away inconspicuously, and it adjusts securely to hold > everything > >> from > >> a small styro cup to a big insulated travel mug or bottle. > >> I often keep a ceramic coffee mug in it that holds a drink bottle or > >> serves > >> as a large-cigar/pipe ashtray (the tonneau cover interferes with the > >> dashboard's ash tray, which won't hold a big cigar or pipe securely, > >> anyway). > > > > ________________________________________ > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com > > > > > > > > > > -- > Henri > 75 TR6, triple webers > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/emanteno at comcast.net ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Jun 8 11:09:47 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2011 17:09:47 GMT Subject: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) Message-ID: When I quite smoking 30+ years ago, the ashtray became the receptacle for the power cord for the Passport. Doing both no doubt saved me some grief! Dick From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Jun 8 12:18:57 2011 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 08 Jun 2011 14:18:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4DEFBD11.3040106@bright.net> Dick, good point. Also (required commercial content) if you install one of our stainless steelbraided oil presure gauge hoses, it is the "fitting access port" to allow attaching hose to oil pressure gauge. Ted On 6/8/2011 1:09 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > When I quite smoking 30+ years ago, the ashtray became the receptacle for the power cord for the Passport. Doing both no doubt saved me some grief! > > Dick > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tedtsimx at bright.net > > > -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US& Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Jun 8 12:33:01 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 8 Jun 2011 18:33:01 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Technical Expertise (or the lack thereof...) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The only 'test light' I own is a small dash light bulb and socket with about 3 inches of + and - wire from unknown source. It always stays in the TR's 'ash' tray, and has come in very handy during many jobs in the garage and on the side of the road. Sloane :) 69-Six From jmerone at rocketmail.com Thu Jun 9 12:57:48 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 11:57:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Ashtray In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <588177.5414.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Mine holds change. Lots of change. There's always the occasional day when I forget my wallet and need to dig into it for lunch money. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Thu Jun 9 14:17:10 2011 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 14:17:10 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ashtray In-Reply-To: <588177.5414.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <588177.5414.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <013601cc26e2$375b81b0$a6128510$@edu> MMMMMMMMMMM, BEER!!!!!!! Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Merone Sent: Thursday, June 09, 2011 12:58 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Ashtray Mine holds change. Lots of change. There's always the occasional day when I forget my wallet and need to dig into it for lunch money. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From member at linkedin.com Thu Jun 9 14:44:58 2011 From: member at linkedin.com (Steve Thornton via LinkedIn) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 20:44:58 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Invitation to connect on LinkedIn Message-ID: <1093642244.2649478.1307652298749.JavaMail.app@ela4-bed36.prod> LinkedIn ------------ Steve Thornton requested to add you as a connection on LinkedIn: ------------------------------------------ Adam, I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn. - Steve Accept invitation from Steve Thornton http://www.linkedin.com/e/-ocjtmm-goq6ez95-41/qS0JKohCT2UogsJQqP3r1XsCApOOGYIH/blk/I2876599603_2/1BpC5vrmRLoRZcjkkZt5YCpnlOt3RApnhMpmdzgmhxrSNBszYOnPcMdzAVdjoTe399bSxJpSJjpChlbP0TczsQdjoScjcLrCBxbOYWrSlI/EML_comm_afe/ View invitation from Steve Thornton http://www.linkedin.com/e/-ocjtmm-goq6ez95-41/qS0JKohCT2UogsJQqP3r1XsCApOOGYIH/blk/I2876599603_2/39vcP0SejARdzsUcAALqnpPbOYWrSlI/svi/ ------------------------------------------ DID YOU KNOW you can showcase your professional knowledge on LinkedIn to receive job/consulting offers and enhance your professional reputation? Posting replies to questions on LinkedIn Answers puts you in front of the world's professional community. http://www.linkedin.com/e/-ocjtmm-goq6ez95-41/abq/inv-24/ -- (c) 2011, LinkedIn Corporation From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Thu Jun 9 17:34:37 2011 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Jun 2011 19:34:37 EDT Subject: [6pack] Alternator Refit Message-ID: I received my Bosch alternator today and while it looks like it will mount up ok I don't know where to put the wires. Anyone BTDT? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs From don.silcock at ge.com Thu Jun 9 17:58:43 2011 From: don.silcock at ge.com (Silcock, Donald (GE Energy Services)) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 07:58:43 +0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Cutting Out Message-ID: <3B07E83FDD8C894B8307F6DAB652637A0183BC9D@SHAMLVEM02.e2k.ad.ge.com> I just got my TR6 back on the road after a six months saga related to the installation of a 5 speed Toyota gearbox.... The car is running well with the new gearbox and having the 5th gear is really nice. I took it for a long run on Sunday up into the Blue Mountains outside of Sydney, here in Australia, and everything was fine except for a brief moment on the highway when the engine cut-out for a few seconds and then ran normally for the rest of the day. I assumed that was just a piece of dirt working its way through the fuel system till yesterday when it happened again, but this time it died completely. I managed to get the car parked at the side of the road and, after trying several times to restart the car, I decided to test the efficiency of the NRMA premium roadside assistance service I have been paying for all these years. The guy turned up within about 30 minutes and wanted to check the spark by holding the lead close to one of the plugs - to my intense surprise the car started immediately and I was able to drive it home. I want to understand what is wrong as it would appear to be an electrical fault, but I am not really sure where to start as the car has electronic ignition. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Don From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jun 10 12:59:41 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 18:59:41 GMT Subject: [6pack] Alternator Refit Message-ID: Sam---You should have three terminals on the Bosch alternator. #1, #2, and a stud marked "BAT". First, disconnect one of the car's battery cables before starting any of this. The stud with the nut connects to a heavy brown wire in the car's alternator wiring harness. If you still have the original plug that is part of the Lucas alternator setup, fit a spade to the wire coming from the alternator and plug it in to connect with the heavy brown wire. There are two of these heavy brown wires. The second of these connects to the #2 Bosch terminal. This number should be embossed on the Bosch casing. The brown/yellow wire that's part of the original plug connects to #1 terminal, as shown on the Bosch. To get the best "fan belt" alignment to the Bosch pulley, you'll probably have to remove about 5/16 inch from the alternator boss. You'll see where this material has to be removed, when you temporarily bolt it on. Being aluminum, it's easy to hacksaw it off, then square it off with a file. I vaguely recall also having to make some sort of a bushing for where the long bolt goes thru, where it connects/pivots at the engine block. Not a big deal, but necessary to keep a nice belt alignment. Then enjoy having a nice 14V+ on your voltmeter. And turn signals that blink when the engine is idling and the headlights are on! Dick -----Original Message----- From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sent: Thursday, June 9, 2011 4:34 PM To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Alternator Refit I received my Bosch alternator today and while it looks like it will mount up ok I don't know where to put the wires. Anyone BTDT? Sam Clark Green Country Triumphs ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From shewfamily at aol.com Fri Jun 10 20:33:21 2011 From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com) Date: Fri, 10 Jun 2011 22:33:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Electricial Issue In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CDF5F7103F1ED3-17F4-A0B5C@webmail-d137.sysops.aol.com> I recently replaced the dimmer switch on my '74 TR6. After replacing it, I cranked the car to check to make sure it functioned properly. It did and so I turned the switch off, reinstalled the seat and finished the installation. When I tried to crank it again, nothing. I had previously had what I thought were issues with the switch when it refused to make the connection and send juice to the starter. I removed the electrical portion of the switch and found that the contacts were pretty much destroyed. I purchased a new switch and installed it this afternoon. When I turned the switch on, the red ignition light came on, but the engine did not turn over. I tried several times and the ignition light came on every time, but no cranking. I reinstalled the rubber bumper (no easy task) and the seat figuring that possibly my battery had been discharged. I hooked up jumper cables and now nothing happens - no red ignition light, no nothing. I checked the connector and it appears to be seated. I checked the seating of the switch into the housing and it appears to be properly seated. When I disconnect my battery and reconnect it, there is no spark upon reconnection. It is like everything is completely dead. Anyone have any thoughts as to how I should go about trouble shooting and what could be wrong. I am missing valuable seat time. John Shewmake '74 TR6 Birmingham, Al From don.silcock at ge.com Mon Jun 13 17:46:52 2011 From: don.silcock at ge.com (Silcock, Donald (GE Energy Services)) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 07:46:52 +0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Cutting Out In-Reply-To: <79587E3F9F37ED418159C5960C8E01ACD0A5979F@SHAMLVEM02.e2k.ad.ge.com> References: <79587E3F9F37ED418159C5960C8E01ACD0A5979F@SHAMLVEM02.e2k.ad.ge.com> Message-ID: <3B07E83FDD8C894B8307F6DAB652637A018776D2@SHAMLVEM02.e2k.ad.ge.com> Just a quick note of thanks for all the excellent advice that came in - I could not find anything obvious so I changed out the coil, dizzy cap & rotor, leads and fuel filter and the car seems to be reliable again... Need to do a few more runs with it to be sure, but the signs are positive. Don _____________________________________________ From: Silcock, Donald (GE Energy Services) Sent: Friday, June 10, 2011 9:59 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: TR6 Engine Cutting Out I just got my TR6 back on the road after a six months saga related to the installation of a 5 speed Toyota gearbox.... The car is running well with the new gearbox and having the 5th gear is really nice. I took it for a long run on Sunday up into the Blue Mountains outside of Sydney, here in Australia, and everything was fine except for a brief moment on the highway when the engine cut-out for a few seconds and then ran normally for the rest of the day. I assumed that was just a piece of dirt working its way through the fuel system till yesterday when it happened again, but this time it died completely. I managed to get the car parked at the side of the road and, after trying several times to restart the car, I decided to test the efficiency of the NRMA premium roadside assistance service I have been paying for all these years. The guy turned up within about 30 minutes and wanted to check the spark by holding the lead close to one of the plugs - to my intense surprise the car started immediately and I was able to drive it home. I want to understand what is wrong as it would appear to be an electrical fault, but I am not really sure where to start as the car has electronic ignition. Any guidance would be greatly appreciated. Don From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com Tue Jun 14 14:03:27 2011 From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 16:03:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 06/13/2011 and will not return until 06/20/2011. I will be intermittantly checking my messages while I am out. Please leave me a voicemail at 919-248-5324 or contact Customer Service at 800-284-3382 ext 5775 for sales assistance or to place an order. You can email customer service at : mcmustomerservice at usa.dupont.com Regards, Robert Waldrop This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for transfers of data to third parties. Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html From ken at azkiwis.com Tue Jun 14 15:29:00 2011 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 14:29:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. Message-ID: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> I know I'm getting a new set of dash knobs for fathers day -- they arrived today -- and have a couple of questions. Seems I must insert a small rod in the hole to release the pin holding the old ones on. I've tried that, but no success. So I'm wondering if I can insert the rod to depress the pin and then with a large pair of pliers, grab and shake the knob while trying to pull it off? Recommended? or any other tricks I might want to try? Ken 73 TR6 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Jun 14 15:58:21 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 21:58:21 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. In-Reply-To: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> References: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> Message-ID: Seems like I squirted WD40 into the hole, with some success. Sloane :) 69-Six > From: ken at azkiwis.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 14:29:00 -0700 > Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. > > I know I'm getting a new set of dash knobs for fathers day -- they arrived > today -- and have a couple of questions. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jun 14 16:21:39 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 18:21:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. In-Reply-To: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> References: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> Message-ID: <707EC6D639E344A1A25DBE62D657773A@DellLaptop> Ken, That's how it's done but many times these knobs are "frozen" in place. Use an awl to firmly push in the hole while pulling on the knob. Seeing as you're replacing them all anyway, you could, as a last resort, cut them off with a Dremel. BTW..... the rheostat knob doesn't have the indent to push. It's usually a press fit that refuses to be set free! Bob -----Original Message----- From: Ken Davis Sent: Tuesday, June 14, 2011 5:29 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. I know I'm getting a new set of dash knobs for fathers day -- they arrived today -- and have a couple of questions. Seems I must insert a small rod in the hole to release the pin holding the old ones on. I've tried that, but no success. So I'm wondering if I can insert the rod to depress the pin and then with a large pair of pliers, grab and shake the knob while trying to pull it off? Recommended? or any other tricks I might want to try? Ken 73 TR6 From forzion7 at gmail.com Tue Jun 14 16:26:20 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 18:26:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. In-Reply-To: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> References: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> Message-ID: Ken; As I recall, I've ordered several set over the years, one from TRF, the other from Moss. None of the newer knobs seem stayed on their assigned locations unless I spot-glued them on. They just never snapped into position on the shafts the way the originals did, even though I've tried to lube the pins on each shaft and make sure the knobs has holes for the pins......... Just a bit of a heads-up, in case you encounter the same thing... Dave '74-Six On Tue, Jun 14, 2011 at 5:29 PM, Ken Davis wrote: > I know I'm getting a new set of dash knobs for fathers day -- they arrived > today -- and have a couple of questions. > > Seems I must insert a small rod in the hole to release the pin holding the > old > ones on. > > I've tried that, but no success. So I'm wondering if I can insert the rod > to > depress the pin and then with a large pair of pliers, grab and shake the > knob > while trying to pull it off? > > Recommended? or any other tricks I might want to try? > > > > > Ken > 73 TR6 > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com From jmitch at snet.net Tue Jun 14 19:26:36 2011 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 21:26:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. In-Reply-To: References: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> Message-ID: <4DF80A4C.5080505@snet.net> I encountered the same thing. The problem seemed to be that the hole in the knob was not large enough to allow the ball(or pin) on the shaft to enter it sufficiently. I opened mine up just slightly with the appropriate size drill. Once opened up, the knobs stay on fine. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag On 6/14/2011 6:26 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > Ken; > > As I recall, I've ordered several set over the years, one from TRF, the > other from > Moss. None of the newer knobs seem stayed on their assigned locations unless > > I spot-glued them on. They just never snapped into position on the shafts > the > way the originals did, even though I've tried to lube the pins on each shaft > and > make sure the knobs has holes for the pins......... > > Just a bit of a heads-up, in case you encounter the same thing... > > Dave > '74-Six > > > On Tue, Jun 14, 2011 at 5:29 PM, Ken Davis wrote: > >> I know I'm getting a new set of dash knobs for fathers day -- they arrived >> today -- and have a couple of questions. >> >> Seems I must insert a small rod in the hole to release the pin holding the >> old >> ones on. >> >> I've tried that, but no success. So I'm wondering if I can insert the rod >> to >> depress the pin and then with a large pair of pliers, grab and shake the >> knob >> while trying to pull it off? >> >> Recommended? or any other tricks I might want to try? >> >> >> >> >> Ken >> 73 TR6 >> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jmitch at snet.net From forzion7 at gmail.com Tue Jun 14 20:08:44 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Tue, 14 Jun 2011 22:08:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. In-Reply-To: <4DF80A4C.5080505@snet.net> References: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> <4DF80A4C.5080505@snet.net> Message-ID: Thanks John, good suggestion! I just now did mine with a 9/64' drill and they all slid on with a click! They're ON!Seems so simple I should have thought to do that a long time ago! Dave On Tue, Jun 14, 2011 at 9:26 PM, John Mitchell wrote: > I encountered the same thing. The problem seemed to be that the hole in > the knob was not large enough to allow the ball(or pin) on the shaft to > enter it sufficiently. I opened mine up just slightly with the appropriate > size drill. Once opened up, the knobs stay on fine. John Mitchell 76 TR6 > 72 Stag > > On 6/14/2011 6:26 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > >> Ken; >> >> As I recall, I've ordered several set over the years, one from TRF, the >> other from >> Moss. None of the newer knobs seem stayed on their assigned locations >> unless >> >> I spot-glued them on. They just never snapped into position on the shafts >> the >> way the originals did, even though I've tried to lube the pins on each >> shaft >> and >> make sure the knobs has holes for the pins......... >> >> Just a bit of a heads-up, in case you encounter the same thing... >> >> Dave >> '74-Six >> >> >> On Tue, Jun 14, 2011 at 5:29 PM, Ken Davis wrote: >> >> I know I'm getting a new set of dash knobs for fathers day -- they >>> arrived >>> today -- and have a couple of questions. >>> >>> Seems I must insert a small rod in the hole to release the pin holding >>> the >>> old >>> ones on. >>> >>> I've tried that, but no success. So I'm wondering if I can insert the >>> rod >>> to >>> depress the pin and then with a large pair of pliers, grab and shake the >>> knob >>> while trying to pull it off? >>> >>> Recommended? or any other tricks I might want to try? >>> >>> >>> >>> >>> Ken >>> 73 TR6 >>> >>> ________________________________________ >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> >>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >>> Unsubscribe: >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com >>> >> ________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jmitch at snet.net From 70tr6 at comcast.net Mon Jun 13 06:04:17 2011 From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 13 Jun 2011 08:04:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6Pack list removal In-Reply-To: <13660.1fd14ef5.3b261c46@aol.com> References: <13660.1fd14ef5.3b261c46@aol.com> Message-ID: <1CC3FACE-423D-46B6-9443-41D975C8AA75@comcast.net> No one deleted you. The mailing list is not actually run by the 6-Pack, but we certainly love it. The membership list is automatic. If you signed up then you will remain signed up. Mark Bradakis runs the list and it would take some extremely poor behavior to get yourself banned and I know that didn't happen. I'd recommend checking your spam box. At the very worst you can go to the list server's address and check your status. Just to be clear, we have no ability to add, delete or otherwise manage anyone's membership on that list. Each person controls their status. Ashford Little 70tr6 at comcast.net On Jun 12, 2011, at 9:42 AM, KKSMC at aol.com wrote: > I was recently deleted from the 6Pack mailing list for some unknown and unsolicited reason. > > I DO NOT wish to be deleted from this service now or in the future. > > Please re -instate my address to this 6-Pack mailing list and verify that when accomplished. Your prompt reply and co-operation is appreciated. > > THANK YOU! > '73.5 -'6 From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jun 16 07:19:51 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 09:19:51 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6Pack list removal In-Reply-To: <1CC3FACE-423D-46B6-9443-41D975C8AA75@comcast.net> References: <13660.1fd14ef5.3b261c46@aol.com> <1CC3FACE-423D-46B6-9443-41D975C8AA75@comcast.net> Message-ID: <2C639D900CD346DF87BF153C215E224B@DCH6RFC1> It sounds as though your account (like mine) got accidentally deleted in the crash. Have you tried re-subscribing? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Andrew -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ashford Little Sent: Monday, June 13, 2011 8:04 AM To: KKSMC at aol.com Cc: webmaster at 6-pack.org; 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 6Pack list removal No one deleted you. The mailing list is not actually run by the 6-Pack, but we certainly love it. The membership list is automatic. If you signed up then you will remain signed up. Mark Bradakis runs the list and it would take some extremely poor behavior to get yourself banned and I know that didn't happen. I'd recommend checking your spam box. At the very worst you can go to the list server's address and check your status. Just to be clear, we have no ability to add, delete or otherwise manage anyone's membership on that list. Each person controls their status. Ashford Little 70tr6 at comcast.net On Jun 12, 2011, at 9:42 AM, KKSMC at aol.com wrote: > I was recently deleted from the 6Pack mailing list for some unknown and unsolicited reason. > > I DO NOT wish to be deleted from this service now or in the future. > > Please re -instate my address to this 6-Pack mailing list and verify that when accomplished. Your prompt reply and co-operation is appreciated. > > THANK YOU! > '73.5 -'6 ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net From johncnorth at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 09:18:13 2011 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 11:18:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Stock wheels Message-ID: Are the stock wheels 5.5" wide? I am ordering Kumho Solus KH16s P205/70R-15 and Tire Rack said TR6 is normally 4.5" and these tires must go on 5.5" rims. I believe these tires will fit, can anyone cofirm. John North 1976 TR6 From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Jun 16 10:34:02 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 11:34:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Stock wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 10:18 AM, John North wrote: > Are the stock wheels 5.5" wide? I am ordering Kumho Solus KH16s > P205/70R-15 and Tire Rack said TR6 is normally 4.5" and these tires > must go on 5.5" rims. I believe these tires will fit, can anyone > cofirm. > Yes, they will work. If any TR6's had 4.5" rims, it was only the very earliest. I ran 215/60x15 on my stock (5.5") rims with no problems for many years. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL now on 16x7" rims From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 11:28:43 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:28:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Lug nut torque Message-ID: Greetings, all! Can ssomeone tell me if thye have non-stock wheels onm their Six, does the torq From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 11:31:41 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:31:41 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Torque Spec for non-stock wheels Message-ID: Sorry for an incomplete first message. Let me try this again: For those that have non-stocks TR6 wheels, do you torque your lug nuts? Does the lug nut torque spec vary by manufacturer? Dave '74 Six 16" Rota wheels From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Jun 16 12:24:45 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 13:24:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Torque Spec for non-stock wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 12:31 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > Sorry for an incomplete first message. Let me try this again: > > For those that have non-stocks TR6 wheels, do you torque your lug nuts? > Does the lug nut torque spec vary by manufacturer? > The guy I bought my Konig Rewinds from told me to torque them to 80. He also said to check them 50 miles after putting them on to be sure. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Thu Jun 16 14:15:20 2011 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 16:15:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Torque Spec for non-stock wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0143687C3F5A@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> The torque specs are for the nut and stud combination and unless you are running magnesium or aluminum wheels, it does not matter. BMW for example, which uses aluminum wheels as a rule, specs at 75 or 90 ft-lb. Basically stud diameters are pretty much the same on both cars. The real issue there is that if over torqued you ruin the rim by deforming the hole. I know that Isusu had some really stupid studs that were very easily deformed if over torqued, but they were very weird. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander [forzion7 at gmail.com] Sent: Thursday, June 16, 2011 1:31 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Torque Spec for non-stock wheels Sorry for an incomplete first message. Let me try this again: For those that have non-stocks TR6 wheels, do you torque your lug nuts? Does the lug nut torque spec vary by manufacturer? Dave '74 Six 16" Rota wheels ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From forzion7 at gmail.com Thu Jun 16 19:03:54 2011 From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 16 Jun 2011 21:03:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] lug nut torque In-Reply-To: <615867.967.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <615867.967.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Thanks, all, for your feedback. I wasn't aware the torque has more to do with the stud size than the wheel brand/type... Dave On Thu, Jun 16, 2011 at 6:09 PM, Bruce Simms wrote: > Dave: I would say to stick with stock torque. I understand it depends > more on the size of the wheel stud. For instance, I torque my stock toyota > tundra lug nuts to 84 lbs as per the manual. I always ensure my wheel > studs have a little oil on them, others don't follow this practice. > > Bruce Simms From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Jun 18 16:15:37 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 18:15:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hot Running 6 Message-ID: <4DFD2389.5030304@charter.net> Hi I just finished rebuilding a club members 74 TR6 that I had bored .060" over due to cylinder wall damage. The owner had the radiator cleaned out, provided a new water pump, thermostat, temp sending unit and so on. The car has a set of DGV Webers (downdraft) on it. There are a couple of issues now with the engine I'm trying to sort out. Engine runs on the warm side with the gauge between 1/2 and 3/4 some excursions to 3/4 when left idling for a _long_ time. When the engine is revved to 1,500-2,000 rpm it settles back down to 5/8ths on the gauge. * I suspected a faulty replacement temp sending unit and replaced it with one from my car and it brought the temp down slightly. * I also tried to burp the system by bleeding the air out at the sending unit but I can't seem to get it out. When I remove the sending unit there's just air. * Any better methods of getting air out of the head?? Doesn't seem to purge after thermal cycling the engine. New cap as well. * The replacement thermostat was a 165 deg. I suspect that it's higher than that. Can't measure actual coolant temp since I broke my Temp Tester. * My next step is to remove the thermostat. Engine backfires through the carbs cold when when snapping the throttle when the chokes are off and not quite warmed up. Not a problem at operating temp/No backfires. * Distributor is the vacuum retard type and the vacuum line is disconnected. * Base timing set at ~1deg BTDC Any Ideas? Thanks in Advance Glenn Franco Too Many TR's they keep multiplying From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Jun 18 17:50:24 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 18 Jun 2011 16:50:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Hot Running 6 In-Reply-To: <4DFD2389.5030304@charter.net> References: <4DFD2389.5030304@charter.net> Message-ID: Kastner says jack up the front of the car until the radiator filler is higher than the head / thermostat housing, run the car, it will "burp" itself ... > > * I also tried to burp the system by bleeding the air out at the > sending unit but I can't seem to get it out. When I remove the > sending unit there's just air. > * Any better methods of getting air out of the head?? Doesn't > seem to purge after thermal cycling the engine. New cap as well. > * The replacement thermostat was a 165 deg. I suspect that it's > higher than that. Can't measure actual coolant temp since I > broke my Temp Tester. > * My next step is to remove the thermostat. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From gaf3 at charter.net Sun Jun 19 10:50:47 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 12:50:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Hot Running 6 In-Reply-To: <4DFD2389.5030304@charter.net> References: <4DFD2389.5030304@charter.net> Message-ID: <4DFE28E7.3050406@charter.net> Group Thanks for all the input on the warm running engine and backfires. I jacked up the front of the car with the thermostat housing off and filled up the head with coolant. I also, as Kas suggested drilled out the thermostat housing and tapped it for a small pipe plug. It does the trick. Coolant temp now is steady at 9/16 to 5/8ths on the gauge regardless of how long it idles. Set the timing at 12 deg BTDC Thanks again! Glenn Too Many TR's they keep multiplying. On 6/18/2011 6:15 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > Hi > I just finished rebuilding a club members 74 TR6 that I had bored .060" > over due to cylinder wall damage. > The owner had the radiator cleaned out, provided a new water pump, > thermostat, temp sending unit and so on. > The car has a set of DGV Webers (downdraft) on it. > There are a couple of issues now with the engine I'm trying to sort out. > > Engine runs on the warm side with the gauge between 1/2 and 3/4 some > excursions to 3/4 when left idling for a _long_ time. When the engine is > revved to 1,500-2,000 rpm it settles back down to 5/8ths on the gauge. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Jun 19 10:59:00 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 19 Jun 2011 16:59:00 GMT Subject: [6pack] Hot Running 6 Message-ID: Glenn---Use a candy thermometer to get a better coolant reading. Place it at the top of the open radiator, and run the engine. This should also burp out any air, after the thermostat opens up. The one deg. BTDC ignition timing could well be another source of excess engine heat. I'd move it up to at least 12 deg. BTDC, with the engine idling as close to 800rpm. (Any increase from this speed will activate the centrifugal advance and give a false reading). Lastly, the temperature you are reading is not necessarily a bad thing, but it can cause one to be always watching the gauge! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco Sent: Saturday, June 18, 2011 3:15 PM To: Friends of triumph, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Hot Running 6 Hi I just finished rebuilding a club members 74 TR6 that I had bored .060" over due to cylinder wall damage. The owner had the radiator cleaned out, provided a new water pump, thermostat, temp sending unit and so on. The car has a set of DGV Webers (downdraft) on it. There are a couple of issues now with the engine I'm trying to sort out. Engine runs on the warm side with the gauge between 1/2 and 3/4 some excursions to 3/4 when left idling for a _long_ time. When the engine is revved to 1,500-2,000 rpm it settles back down to 5/8ths on the gauge. * I suspected a faulty replacement temp sending unit and replaced it with one from my car and it brought the temp down slightly. * I also tried to burp the system by bleeding the air out at the sending unit but I can't seem to get it out. When I remove the sending unit there's just air. * Any better methods of getting air out of the head?? Doesn't seem to purge after thermal cycling the engine. New cap as well. * The replacement thermostat was a 165 deg. I suspect that it's higher than that. Can't measure actual coolant temp since I broke my Temp Tester. * My next step is to remove the thermostat. Engine backfires through the carbs cold when when snapping the throttle when the chokes are off and not quite warmed up. Not a problem at operating temp/No backfires. * Distributor is the vacuum retard type and the vacuum line is disconnected. * Base timing set at ~1deg BTDC Any Ideas? Thanks in Advance Glenn Franco Too Many TR's they keep multiplying ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jun 20 11:34:13 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 13:34:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Firewall heater connection Message-ID: Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI From emanteno at comcast.net Mon Jun 20 12:03:35 2011 From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 13:03:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Firewall heater connection In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, Jun 20, 2011 at 12:34 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote: > Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need > a > heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the > end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would > have > to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. > Have you tried Roadster Factory? BPNW? I got mine from Roadster. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From rick.carroll at teradyne.com Mon Jun 20 12:38:03 2011 From: rick.carroll at teradyne.com (rick.carroll at teradyne.com) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 14:38:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Stop sending me these mails In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Regards, Rick Carroll 610-797-3037 Office 610-442-0473 Cell From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Date: 06/20/2011 02:22 PM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 18 Sent by: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: 1. Firewall heater connection (Andrew Uprichard) ---------------------------------------------------------------------- Message: 1 Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 13:34:13 -0400 From: "Andrew Uprichard" To: , <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Firewall heater connection Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI ------------------------------ _______________________________________________ 6pack mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 18 ************************************ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Jun 20 12:38:51 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 18:38:51 GMT Subject: [6pack] Firewall heater connection Message-ID: Andrew---If...this is the double hose fitting that's in the passenger footwell, and you need to drive the car, you could bi-pass it. Connect the hose coming out of the heater shutoff valve back into the tube that goes behind the manifold. If this is the double hose fitting that's in the engine bay (the one with the long tube that runs behind the manifolds) it could be blanked off by putting a plug in the tube to the waterpump housing, and another at the pipe at the back end of the intake maniold. The engine may not run as well at low speed with no (hot) water passing thru the intake, but this'll get you where you want to go. There are other variations to the above, but you get the idea. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Uprichard Sent: Monday, June 20, 2011 10:34 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Firewall heater connection Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! Andrew Uprichard Jackson, MI ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Mon Jun 20 12:40:19 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 14:40:19 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Firewall heater connection In-Reply-To: <890272.18807.qm@web120507.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> References: <890272.18807.qm@web120507.mail.ne1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <140148121DE247D69A9EB04B710E1A52@DCH6RFC1> Thanks to you for your quick replies, especially to the individual who suggested Scott Harper at Team Triumph in Warren Ohio. One phone call and the part is on its way. I'm all set. Many of you pointed out that The Roadster Factory will overnight. Worth knowing. By the way, I noticed that when I typed www.theroadsterfactory.com (instead of www.the-roadster-factory.com) I was directed to an official-looking page which links to Moss motors. Kinda sneaky if you ask me........ Andrew On Mon Jun 20th, 2011 12:34 PM CDT Andrew Uprichard wrote: >Sorry to bomb the list, but for various reasons (it's a long story) I need a >heater hose connector for my TR 250 in something of a hurry - like by the >end of the day tomorrow (Tuesdat). Nothing on eBay, Moss says it would have >to come out of CA (3 days), etc., etc. > > > >Is there anyone out there who would overnight one to me? It is the >double-hose connector used on the TR250, TR6. Thanks in advance! > >Andrew Uprichard > >Jackson, MI > > >triumphs at autox.team.net > >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumph74tr6 at yahoo.com From ken at azkiwis.com Mon Jun 20 12:48:01 2011 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Mon, 20 Jun 2011 11:48:01 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Removing knobs. In-Reply-To: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> References: <89A3A552BAA14E788D5E9530E5F3466D@AcerNotebook> Message-ID: Thanks for the input and suggestions.... one - the wiper - came off easily. one -dimmer - required a bit of levering the rest all required a dremel assist.... new ones on.... thanks Ken >I know I'm getting a new set of dash knobs for fathers day -- they arrived > today -- and have a couple of questions. > > Seems I must insert a small rod in the hole to release the pin holding the > old > ones on. > > I've tried that, but no success. So I'm wondering if I can insert the > rod to > depress the pin and then with a large pair of pliers, grab and shake the > knob > while trying to pull it off? From auprichard at uprichard.net Tue Jun 21 07:21:28 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Tue, 21 Jun 2011 09:21:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TVR nose in San Martin, CA In-Reply-To: <8CDFE2602390E34-744-5BE5A@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> References: <000001cc2fc4$1de47a30$59ad6e90$@rr.com> <8CDFE2602390E34-744-5BE5A@webmail-m054.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <53F3BCE0ABF44FECBE795400999BE67D@DCH6RFC1> Again, sorry to bomb the list, but is there anyone in the San Martin area who would pick up and store a nose for a TVR Grantura? The nose is on eBay for local pickup only and I have a friend who wants it and who could get out there sometime in the next couple of months. Unfortunately the friend is in Vermont !! Let me know. Thanks!! Andrew Uprichard -----Original Message----- From: John & Pat Donnelly Just tried going on the website and found myself on a generic site. Is anyone else having this problem? Here's the link I had/ http://www.britishframeandengine.com/index.html triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net From jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu Wed Jun 22 09:18:15 2011 From: jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu (jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 11:18:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Convertible Top In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Have been looking to replace my vinyl top. Has anyone had any experiences with the lesser expensive tops offered on-line? One advertised .40 gauge vinyl similar to OEM and has a five year warranty, offered for less than $300. I'm a couple of years from a new paint job and interior and a clean black top that fits properly will suffice for now. Thanks. From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Jun 22 12:10:14 2011 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 18:10:14 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Convertible Top In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: I put a Robbins on mine in 86. No garage at that time, but now garaged since 90. The windows are a little cloudy and the corner windows are pulled away from the top at the rear/bottom corners, but other than that it looks too good to replace, expecially when I keep it down so much. Vinyl material is nice and black. We put a Robbins on my brother's in 2006, and made one change from original. We noticed that Spitfire's have 4 snaps on each side, Six's only have 3. My corner windows busted out because of the fold right on that bottom corner. We put an extra snap on each side, not changing the placement, but turning the outboard first screws on the plate that bolts to the body on each side into snaps. So his top folds nicely between the rear and corner windows, never folding the windows. Sloane :) 69-Six > > Have been looking to replace my vinyl top. Has anyone had any experiences > with the lesser expensive tops offered on-line? > One advertised .40 gauge vinyl similar to OEM and has a five year > warranty, offered for less than $300. From rchakr at earthlink.net Wed Jun 22 12:52:44 2011 From: rchakr at earthlink.net (rchakr at earthlink.net) Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 14:52:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Convertible Top Message-ID: <380-220116322185244531@earthlink.net> My only word of advice, is to get a top WITHOUT the snaps preinstalled on the bottom sides. I bought an EZOn top that was of nice quality, and was a good price. The problem was that the preinstalled female snaps did not line up with the male snaps on my body tub. Get a top where you install the snaps yourself, where you need them. Just my 2 cents! > [Original Message] > From: <6pack-request at autox.team.net> > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: 6/22/2011 2:41:20 PM > Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 20 > > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. Convertible Top (jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 22 Jun 2011 11:18:15 -0400 > From: jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Convertible Top > Message-ID: > > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Have been looking to replace my vinyl top. Has anyone had any experiences > with the lesser expensive tops offered on-line? > One advertised .40 gauge vinyl similar to OEM and has a five year > warranty, offered for less than $300. > > I'm a couple of years from a new paint job and interior and a clean black > top that fits properly will suffice for now. Thanks. > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 20 > ************************************ From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Thu Jun 23 11:47:42 2011 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 10:47:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question Message-ID: <1308851262.21807.YahooMailRC@web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> I have Richard Good's Nissan Differential upgrade with a Q-45 differential in my TR6. I have what seems to be driveline slop that results in a severe lurching at low RPMs around town. I reenforced the differential mounts and recently inspected them and don't think that is the problem. I have re-tuned the carbs to try to eleminate lean mixture as the cause of the lurching problem. I have noted that per Richard's mounting instructions the front mounting studs of the differential adaption kit just stick through the holes in the front of the differential and are held on by large washers. When on the Nissan there were metal/rubber mounts in these holes that restricted the movement of the front of the differential. Richard's instructions say to remove the rubber/metal mounts which seems to leave a lot of room for movement up front. Do I understand these instructions correctly? Does anyone have any other suggestions regarding a cure for the lurch/clunk. Mike Lunsford PS: I have Richard's S2 cam in my car also and I suspect that the lope from the cam is responsible for some of the lurching. From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jun 23 12:22:32 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 11:22:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question In-Reply-To: <1308851262.21807.YahooMailRC@web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1308851262.21807.YahooMailRC@web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: At 10:47 AM -0700 6/23/11, michael lunsford wrote: >I have Richard Good's Nissan Differential upgrade with a Q-45 differential in >my Perhaps this might be the reason ... NOTE: Installation of Good Parts rear Nylatron suspension bushing kit is strongly recommended when installing the R200 differential. The original type rubber bushings allow the trailing arm to shift sideways during hard cornering. This action, combined with binding of the axle splines during acceleration or deceleration has, on a few occasions disengaged the internal snap ring hold the R200 axle stub into the differential. If the axle stub moves out far enough to disengage its splines, power cannot be transmitted to the wheels. This has not been known to occur on cars using the Nylatron bushings in the trailing arms. Springs are now supplied with the R200 installation kit to install between the axle half-shafts as an extra precaution. I would urge you to use the Nylatron kit ... -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jun 23 12:45:38 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 18:45:38 GMT Subject: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question Message-ID: Mike---I also have the LSD, and some low speed* lurching. My diff has not moved in any direction since the install a few years ago, but Herman vdA says he noticed his (driveshaft) after time had moved sideways enough to where it sometimes bangs against some other body hardware. He rectified this by making some offset bushings to fit into the "holes" you referred to. He said this helped to recenter the driveshaft, and hold it in place. He made a pair of these bushings for me, but as yet I haven't needed to install them. The *lurching seems to be, at least in part, to valve overlap at low engine speeds. This lurching starts when the rpm drops to under 1,500 while decelerating in the top gears. I don't recall having this when running with the stock diff, but this could be memory fade! It's only mildly irratating. With the smallest throttle input, this lurch disappears. It would be interesting to know if other Listers who have both the LSD and a mild cam are experiencing this low speed lurching. Dick From tr6 at lbcs.ca Thu Jun 23 14:51:48 2011 From: tr6 at lbcs.ca (Dave More) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 14:51:48 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <56CA817D-BA38-47AB-B7C7-CB29B30DC8CD@lbcs.ca> Are you still using stock rear axles? I recently cured a chronic clunk on mine by ensuring that the splines were well lubed with grey moly high-pressure grease. Just a thought. Cheers, Dave 1976 TR6 CF58310 On 2011-06-23, at 12:45 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Mike---I also have the LSD, and some low speed* lurching. My diff has not moved in any direction since the install a few years ago, but Herman vdA says he noticed his (driveshaft) after time had moved sideways enough to where it sometimes bangs against some other body hardware. He rectified this by making some offset bushings to fit into the "holes" you referred to. He said this helped to recenter the driveshaft, and hold it in place. He made a pair of these bushings for me, but as yet I haven't needed to install them. > > The *lurching seems to be, at least in part, to valve overlap at low engine speeds. This lurching starts when the rpm drops to under 1,500 while decelerating in the top gears. I don't recall having this when running with the stock diff, but this could be memory fade! It's only mildly irratating. With the smallest throttle input, this lurch disappears. It would be interesting to know if other Listers who have both the LSD and a mild cam are experiencing this low speed lurching. > > Dick > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6 at lbcs.ca From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jun 23 16:17:28 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 23 Jun 2011 18:17:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Theoretical Clutch / Tranny Question Message-ID: Hi, My newly installed engine / clutch / tranny was showing signs that the clutch is "dragging" when the pedal is fully depressed. So, "we" (THANKS RICK!!) pulled the tranny last night for a look-see. It looks like the spigot bush was siezed to the flywheel. It took some effort to get it out. Owing to the late hour and the fact that I'd much rather chat than work, we didn't measure anything before calling it a day, but I wanted to toss this out there: Have you ever seen a case where a tranny input shaft sufficiently "locked" to the spigot bush to give the symptom that the clutch was not releasing? Direct replies are okay or reply to the list. Either way, I'll try to summarize early next week. For now, it's off to the garage for some quality time with my TR6's. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jun 23 18:20:08 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 00:20:08 GMT Subject: [6pack] Theoretical Clutch / Tranny Question Message-ID: Bob---As you know, the pilot bushing should float in the flywheel (or in the crank snout in the early 6). This bushing being stuck in the flywheel, by itself, shouldn't cause what you were experiencing. But if the pilot bush was also stuck on the input shaft, things would keep turning when the clutch is disengaged. The car would try to "creep" when in any gear, and if brakes were applied, the engine would try to stall. Look for signs of dragging/galling where the input shaft rides in the pilot. Do you have any miles on this installation? Dick -----Original Message----- From: Robert M. Lang Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 3:17 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Theoretical Clutch / Tranny Question Hi, My newly installed engine / clutch / tranny was showing signs that the clutch is "dragging" when the pedal is fully depressed. So, "we" (THANKS RICK!!) pulled the tranny last night for a look-see. It looks like the spigot bush was siezed to the flywheel. It took some effort to get it out. Owing to the late hour and the fact that I'd much rather chat than work, we didn't measure anything before calling it a day, but I wanted to toss this out there: Have you ever seen a case where a tranny input shaft sufficiently "locked" to the spigot bush to give the symptom that the clutch was not releasing? Direct replies are okay or reply to the list. Either way, I'll try to summarize early next week. For now, it's off to the garage for some quality time with my TR6's. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jun 23 18:25:58 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 00:25:58 GMT Subject: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question Message-ID: Ron---I would agree with your assessment. The LSD conversion is a nice piece of work. The lurch seems more the result of certain camshafts that do not like it when the wheels drive the engine at low speeds in the higher gears. Dick -----Original Message----- From: ron Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:09 PM To: Sally or Dick Taylor, michael lunsford, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question Mike, We have installed several of these R200 diffs in TR6's and 250's. We haven't had any complaints on them. If you have the higher 3.54 or 3.36, at low speeds and in the wrong gear, you can get bucking because the engine is running too slow. Ron Ron's Vintage Auto Restoration ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: "michael lunsford" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, June 23, 2011 1:45 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question > Mike---I also have the LSD, and some low speed* lurching. My diff has not > moved in any direction since the install a few years ago, but Herman vdA > says he noticed his (driveshaft) after time had moved sideways enough to > where it sometimes bangs against some other body hardware. He rectified > this by making some offset bushings to fit into the "holes" you referred > to. He said this helped to recenter the driveshaft, and hold it in place. > He made a pair of these bushings for me, but as yet I haven't needed to > install them. > > The *lurching seems to be, at least in part, to valve overlap at low > engine speeds. This lurching starts when the rpm drops to under 1,500 > while decelerating in the top gears. I don't recall having this when > running with the stock diff, but this could be memory fade! It's only > mildly irratating. With the smallest throttle input, this lurch > disappears. It would be interesting to know if other Listers who have both > the LSD and a mild cam are experiencing this low speed lurching. > > Dick > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgh at vvm.com From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Jun 24 23:30:30 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 24 Jun 2011 23:30:30 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Nissan LSD conversion question In-Reply-To: <1308851262.21807.YahooMailRC@web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> References: <1308851262.21807.YahooMailRC@web161215.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, I never had a lurching problem with my LSD (with or without the CV axles), but I don't have a upgraded cam. I think I'd read the plugs or use a colortune to see what's going on with the combustion. It may just be the lope of the cam. I can't imagine you'd get lurching from the LSD mounts or the trailing arm material not being as recommended, there doesn't seem to be that much play in the system to me. Re: Richard Good's Note: I was one of those whose snap ring disengaged. Happened on a Rio Grande Rendezvous trip to Silver City NM. I had to dodge a piece of firewood on Raton Pass and I think it pulled on the snap ring but not fully out. Going around a mountain switchback 300 miles later pulled it out completely though and I was dead in the water. Got towed by the one of the nicest people ever...trip took 3 hours to go about 50 miles down a mountain pass with my 6 on a tow truck. Our tow driver took us to get something to eat (this was 7 hours after the breakdown), took us to our hotel, found and fixed the problem at his shop the next morning and came and got me at the hotel at noon the next day. Charged me $150 plus the tow charge. Got the Broken Spoke award for that adventure. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Jun 23, 2011, at 11:47 AM, michael lunsford wrote: > I have Richard Good's Nissan Differential upgrade with a Q-45 > differential in > my > TR6. I have what seems to be driveline slop that results in a severe > lurching at low RPMs around town. I reenforced the differential > mounts and > recently inspected them and don't think that is the problem. I have > re-tuned > the carbs to try to eleminate lean mixture as the cause of the > lurching > problem. I have noted that per Richard's mounting instructions the > front > mounting studs of the differential adaption kit just stick through > the holes > in > the front of the differential and are held on by large washers. > When on > the Nissan there were metal/rubber mounts in these holes that > restricted the > movement of the front of the differential. Richard's instructions > say to > remove > the rubber/metal mounts which seems to leave a lot of room for > movement up > front. Do I understand these instructions correctly? Does > anyone have > any other suggestions regarding a cure for the lurch/clunk. > Mike Lunsford > > PS: I have Richard's S2 cam in my car also and I suspect that > the lope from the > cam is responsible for some of the lurching. > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From auprichard at uprichard.net Sat Jun 25 06:23:38 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 08:23:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] question In-Reply-To: References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> Message-ID: <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible? Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Sat Jun 25 11:07:21 2011 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 10:07:21 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Upper Crash Pad Installation Message-ID: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F4114E975A6@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu> I have a couple of questions about replacing the upper crash pad on my 69 TR6. The Bentley manual calls for applying adhesive S758 to the mating surfaces of the crash pad and bulkhead panel. Will 3M Super Trim Adhesive work or is there a better recommendation? The crash pad I removed did not appear to be installed with any kind of adhesive. When refitting the windshield frame, Bentley calls for a Seal-a-strip between the rubber gasket and the scuttle panel. When I removed the windshield frame some kind of sealant was there that had the look and consistency of rope caulk. I've used this stuff around the house for sealing doors and windows and thought about using it for this application. Any recommendation here? Are these Seal-a-strips still available? Also, is it recommended to put sealant between the rubber gasket and the windshield frame? None was there. I never had leaks in the past although I was only in rain a few times. Mike Corvallis, Oregon From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Sat Jun 25 19:50:34 2011 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 01:50:34 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Upper Crash Pad Installation In-Reply-To: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F4114E975A6@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F4114E975A6@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: Hi Mike, I used 3M weather strip adhesive to fasten the crash pad and 3M strip caulk under the windshield about 10 years ago and have not had any issues with either the crash pad lifting or water getting under the windshield. Bob Rochlin '72 TR 6 > From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Sat, 25 Jun 2011 10:07:21 -0700 > Subject: [6pack] Upper Crash Pad Installation > > I have a couple of questions about replacing the upper crash pad on my 69 > TR6. > > The Bentley manual calls for applying adhesive S758 to the mating surfaces of > the crash pad and bulkhead panel. Will 3M Super Trim Adhesive work or is > there a better recommendation? The crash pad I removed did not appear to be > installed with any kind of adhesive. > > When refitting the windshield frame, Bentley calls for a Seal-a-strip between > the rubber gasket and the scuttle panel. When I removed the windshield frame > some kind of sealant was there that had the look and consistency of rope > caulk. I've used this stuff around the house for sealing doors and windows > and thought about using it for this application. Any recommendation here? > Are these Seal-a-strips still available? > > Also, is it recommended to put sealant between the rubber gasket and the > windshield frame? None was there. I never had leaks in the past although I > was only in rain a few times. > > Mike > Corvallis, Oregon > > ________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/r_rochlin at hotmail.com From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Sun Jun 26 06:51:05 2011 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 05:51:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] question In-Reply-To: <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> Message-ID: <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Andrew There was a suggestion in the past to fill the bottle in a container, for inside snd outside of the bottle, with a light mixture of vinegarand let it sit for a few days. Dale From: Andrew Uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 8:23 AM Subject: [6pack] question Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible? Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From auprichard at uprichard.net Sun Jun 26 09:36:38 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Sun, 26 Jun 2011 11:36:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] question In-Reply-To: <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <687A322AC02646BD92C52E94DF080CB0@DCH6RFC1> Thanks to all who replied. I had tried vinegar and bleach, as well as those effervescent tablets used to clean dentures (they work a charm for glass decanter bottles) - all to no avail. Randall had suggested Retr0bright and sent a link - I'll give it a try and get back to y'all. Andrew Uprichard _____ From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com] Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:51 AM To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] question Andrew There was a suggestion in the past to fill the bottle in a container, for inside snd outside of the bottle, with a light mixture of vinegarand let it sit for a few days. Dale From: Andrew Uprichard To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 8:23 AM Subject: [6pack] question Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible? Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested. Thanks! Andrew Uprichard ________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Jun 28 15:10:50 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 17:10:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Theoretical Clutch / Tranny Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, Well, the diagnosis was: 1. The spigot bush was def. hanging up in the bore, so there was friction there. BUT 2. the clutch disk was stuck to the flywheel! I removed the pressure plate and the clutch disk stayed firmly in place. When I pried it off, there was a pattern of clutch material on the flywheel. Looks like I might have put the clutch together too soon after I'd hosed the flywheel friction surface down with brake-kleen and that resulted in material ADHESION between the two parts. Everything works "a treat" now. I might take the car down from the jack stands and to some burnouts in the driveway tonite... just to piss off the neighbors. Last night, I played my electric bass 'till midnight, jtpotn). :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From f700fast at yahoo.com Tue Jun 28 19:26:35 2011 From: f700fast at yahoo.com (Tom Rand) Date: Tue, 28 Jun 2011 18:26:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Con Rods Message-ID: <1309310795.96522.YahooMailRC@web161908.mail.bf1.yahoo.com> Well, I thought I spun a bearing and I did. More like stretched the rod. No. 1 I'm thinking the others aren't far behind. I'm looking to purchase corrilla rods. I've looked a few places and they are expensive. Who has the best deal on them. Any ideas? Thank you From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Wed Jun 29 13:32:28 2011 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 15:32:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Con Rods Message-ID: <380-220116329193228546@earthlink.net> Tom, I wanted Carillos, but "settled" for a set of forged rods from Wishbone Classics http://www.wbclassics.com/catalog/15 The weight was within a few grams of Carillos, and the price at the time (3-4 years ago) was 50% cheaper. Cheers, Tom From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com Wed Jun 29 14:02:23 2011 From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 16:02:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is on vacation. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 06/28/2011 and will not return until 07/11/2011. I will be intermittantly checking my messages while I am out. Please leave me a voicemail at 919-248-5324 or contact Customer Service at 800-284-3382 ext 5775 for sales assistance or to place an order. You can email customer service at : mcmustomerservice at usa.dupont.com Regards, Robert Waldrop This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for transfers of data to third parties. Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Jun 29 23:09:34 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 29 Jun 2011 23:09:34 -0600 Subject: [6pack] VTR Autocross Team Event? Message-ID: <1DADB7BD-6B89-48DB-898C-87D2FEBFBD68@comcast.net> Yes that's right a TEAM Autocross Event. At this point it's just a wild idea but I'd like to test the waters here on the list to see if there would be any interest in driving a car around the cones that has left side steering but right side pedals. This car is a 2002 350 Z 6 speed that has been altered to the prior mentioned configuration. I haven't seen it yet but that's the gist of it. Why in God's name would anyone take a real nice sports car and make it so that two people are required to drive it you might rightfully ask? Well here's the answer. The goal is to get onto Top Gear and have celebrity teams use this car for a race. Yup that's it. A celebrity auto stunt two-person race. Apparently there's millions to be made....not apparent to me but WTH. So knowing the young neighbor that created this concept (I actually powder coated some parts for him...Thx FT), I thought this might be a fun event to try after the VTR autocross in Breckenridge this year. Hopefully we could have teams take some timed runs after the official autocross and see whose team can two-person drive through the cones the fastest. This could be your chance to get in on the next big thing...or not. Any Teams that want to sign up? I certain you'll have to sign your life away on a disclaimer, etc.. What better way to cement a friendship/marrige than trying to both drive a car at the same time? This would not be an official event and nothing but bragging rights will be awarded. I've been invited to do a test ride so I'll let you know how that goes. Let me know if there's any interest and I'll see what I can do. Thanks Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Jun 30 09:37:14 2011 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 11:37:14 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion Kit - New Production Run Message-ID: <192648.1cc8770c.3b3df22a@cs.com> Commercial Comment for Sean Alexander For you that have been asking.....Sean just completed another production run, has packaged, and on the shelf ready to ship..... 25 Kits several gone already. the-vintage-racer.com Thanks! From george_loriot at hotmail.com Thu Jun 30 14:08:25 2011 From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 16:08:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 for sale Message-ID: Hi listers, I don't know if this is correct protocol but I hope so. For various reasons (a 10-year affair with 'the other woman' is enough) I'm selling my 76 TR6. It's posted on newengland triumphs at http://www.newenglandtriumphs.org/classifieds/index.html . It's currently the second posting (the $4600 one). George Loriot1976 TR6 From auprichard at uprichard.net Thu Jun 30 15:04:52 2011 From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard) Date: Thu, 30 Jun 2011 17:04:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] torque thrust wheel References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com> <1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1> <1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Does anyone on the list know where I could get one 6" American torque thrust mag wheel for myTR250? I have three 6" wheels and one 5.5" (which I guess I could use as a spare). I realize they are hard to find, but maybe there's one out there. Thanks in advance. Andrew Uprichard 1962 TR3B 1968 TR250