From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri Jul  1 20:30:11 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 1 Jul 2011 22:30:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Trailer Ohio to TRF area
Message-ID: <BLU160-w23B33FDF71A9A2A351C94EBA5A0@phx.gbl>

I might have an empty trailer going from northern ohio to the TRF area and
back.  Anybody need a car or some big parts hauled? Marty Sukey

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Tue Jul  5 15:34:31 2011
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 14:34:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover - Recommendations?
Message-ID: <1309901671.71630.YahooMailRC@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Okay, replacing old dash with sharp looking burl venner one.   While I'm in 
there....replace and lube
speeo cable, tach cable, oil presuure line and all
the bulbs.   What else?    
Outer casing on sppedo cable torn, so out she
comes.   Maybe speedo will be 
steadier.
Everything apart,   so far so good
except for undoing sppedo cable at OD 
adapter.   Can't get enough on it to
unscrew it.  Not enough room.
The shop manual section for this job says to
remove right side tunnel carpet and 
take off access cover, great except that
my 73 is an A type OD conversion, so no 
got one.
The plastc tunnel cover from
the RF didn't have that option when I bought it.

So, looks like I need to cut
one out.   Drill a hole and cut out acess panel 
with a sawzall.   Shouldn't
take long.     Roger William's book "How to Restore 
TR6"   has a picture of
one on pg 106.   I guess I'll follow that unless folks 
have other
recommendations or measurements I could follow.   Guess I'll cover 
the hole
with sheet metal and self tapping screws.

Thank you,

Bruce Simms

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Tue Jul  5 16:32:11 2011
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 18:32:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover -
 Recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <1309901671.71630.YahooMailRC@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1309901671.71630.YahooMailRC@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwjRpDtH408zOZJmPS1WurRBT281FifvVmX53gD4fEqb1A@mail.gmail.com>

Yeah, there's no access cover for the side of the tranny tunnel
and it is a problem.

I tried to salvage the speedo cover from my original tranny tunnel but
the shape is different for the new molded plastic tunnels. Seems like
someone could manufacture a run or two of these and it would fill
a gap left there by the Big 3. They all sell the molded tranny covers
but no one sells a speedo cable adapter cover that fits the molded
tunnel.....

Dave
'74 Six w/A/OD +TBI

On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 5:34 PM, Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

> Okay, replacing old dash with sharp looking burl venner one.   While I'm in
> there....replace and lube
> speeo cable, tach cable, oil presuure line and all
> the bulbs.   What else?
> Outer casing on sppedo cable torn, so out she
> comes.   Maybe speedo will be
> steadier.
> Everything apart,   so far so good
> except for undoing sppedo cable at OD
> adapter.   Can't get enough on it to
> unscrew it.  Not enough room.
> The shop manual section for this job says to
> remove right side tunnel carpet and
> take off access cover, great except that
> my 73 is an A type OD conversion, so no
> got one.
> The plastc tunnel cover from
> the RF didn't have that option when I bought it.
>
> So, looks like I need to cut
> one out.   Drill a hole and cut out acess panel
> with a sawzall.   Shouldn't
> take long.     Roger William's book "How to Restore
> TR6"   has a picture of
> one on pg 106.   I guess I'll follow that unless folks
> have other
> recommendations or measurements I could follow.   Guess I'll cover
> the hole
> with sheet metal and self tapping screws.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bruce Simms
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jul  5 16:58:59 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 17:58:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover -
 Recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwjRpDtH408zOZJmPS1WurRBT281FifvVmX53gD4fEqb1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1309901671.71630.YahooMailRC@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<CAJ1eQwjRpDtH408zOZJmPS1WurRBT281FifvVmX53gD4fEqb1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <51E4230201FD4A0DBAE8910DFE35B23E@ranteer.local>

its not that hard to make one out of fiberglass

--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Friedlander" <forzion7 at gmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 5:32 PM
To: "Bruce Simms" <brucesimns2003 at yahoo.ca>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover - 
Recommendations?

> Yeah, there's no access cover for the side of the tranny tunnel
> and it is a problem.
>
> I tried to salvage the speedo cover from my original tranny tunnel but
> the shape is different for the new molded plastic tunnels. Seems like
> someone could manufacture a run or two of these and it would fill
> a gap left there by the Big 3. They all sell the molded tranny covers
> but no one sells a speedo cable adapter cover that fits the molded
> tunnel.....

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Jul  5 17:20:06 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (tedtsimx at bright.net)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 19:20:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack]
 =?utf-8?q?Access_port_on_transmission_tunnel_cover_-_Reco?=
 =?utf-8?q?mmendations_=3F?=
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwjRpDtH408zOZJmPS1WurRBT281FifvVmX53gD4fEqb1A@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1309901671.71630.YahooMailRC@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<CAJ1eQwjRpDtH408zOZJmPS1WurRBT281FifvVmX53gD4fEqb1A@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <3c7d766c-3b0a-4b34-9a3e-1cf26110a175@blur>

We make a retro cover for OD right angle drive. Ted

Connected by DROID on Verizon Wireless

-----Original message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion7 at gmail.com>
To: Bruce Simms <brucesimns2003 at yahoo.ca>
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, Jul 5, 2011 22:32:11 GMT+00:00
Subject: Re: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover -  
Recommendations?

Yeah, there's no access cover for the side of the tranny tunnel
and it is a problem.

I tried to salvage the speedo cover from my original tranny tunnel but
the shape is different for the new molded plastic tunnels. Seems like
someone could manufacture a run or two of these and it would fill
a gap left there by the Big 3. They all sell the molded tranny covers
but no one sells a speedo cable adapter cover that fits the molded
tunnel.....

Dave
'74 Six w/A/OD +TBI

On Tue, Jul 5, 2011 at 5:34 PM, Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca> wrote:

> Okay, replacing old dash with sharp looking burl venner one.   While I'm  
in
> there....replace and lube
> speeo cable, tach cable, oil presuure line and all
> the bulbs.   What else?
> Outer casing on sppedo cable torn, so out she
> comes.   Maybe speedo will be
> steadier.
> Everything apart,   so far so good
> except for undoing sppedo cable at OD
> adapter.   Can't get enough on it to
> unscrew it.  Not enough room.
> The shop manual section for this job says to
> remove right side tunnel carpet and
> take off access cover, great except that
> my 73 is an A type OD conversion, so no
> got one.
> The plastc tunnel cover from
> the RF didn't have that option when I bought it.
>
> So, looks like I need to cut
> one out.   Drill a hole and cut out acess panel
> with a sawzall.   Shouldn't
> take long.     Roger William's book "How to Restore
> TR6"   has a picture of
> one on pg 106.   I guess I'll follow that unless folks
> have other
> recommendations or measurements I could follow.   Guess I'll cover
> the hole
> with sheet metal and self tapping screws.
>
> Thank you,
>
> Bruce Simms
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tedtsimx at bright.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Jul  5 17:30:47 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 16:30:47 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover -
 Recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <51E4230201FD4A0DBAE8910DFE35B23E@ranteer.local>
References: <1309901671.71630.YahooMailRC@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
	<CAJ1eQwjRpDtH408zOZJmPS1WurRBT281FifvVmX53gD4fEqb1A@mail.gmail.com>
	<51E4230201FD4A0DBAE8910DFE35B23E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <a0624080cca394ee5b31c@[192.168.2.2]>

Or just cut a hole in the old one, use the rubber plug from the TR3 
... =s access ...



>its not that hard to make one out of fiberglass
>
>--------------------------------------------------
>From: "David Friedlander" <forzion7 at gmail.com>
>Sent: Tuesday, July 05, 2011 5:32 PM
>To: "Bruce Simms" <brucesimns2003 at yahoo.ca>
>Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover - 
>Recommendations?
>
>>Yeah, there's no access cover for the side of the tranny tunnel
>>and it is a problem.
>>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Tue Jul  5 17:44:48 2011
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Tue, 5 Jul 2011 16:44:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Notice to list
Message-ID: <1309909488.28988.YahooMailClassic@web160714.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

It is painful for me to say this (very painful) but I am selling my beloved
1972 Emerald TR6. I must note there are several modifications, including a
Moss supercharger.
 
Please contact me off list if you have any interest. Here is a link to
pictures of it: http://s1128.photobucket.com/albums/m493/jimjcmo/
 
If you want to contact me with questions my number is 573-291-2355. I really
want this to go to someone who cares about these cars.
 
Regards to all,
Jim Jones
Jefferson City, MO

From jattr6 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul  6 11:29:54 2011
From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 17:29:54 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
Message-ID: <BLU151-w4445CC3A60B89533E1F654805E0@phx.gbl>

Ok, I have Dan Master's electrical book.My Red Ignition light comes on while
driving.Sometimes it waits a while to come on.I had my alternator tested. Was
told it is perfect.Battery is good too. hmmm?
Any ideas?

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Wed Jul  6 13:21:28 2011
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 15:21:28 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Access port on transmission tunnel cover -
 Recommendations?
Message-ID: <2d425.386cb54a.3b460fb8@aol.com>

When I replaced my transmission cover on my '72 with factory A-type OD I  
transferred the existing covers to the new one by cutting out the two 
sections ,  one on the left side for the solenoid and right hand for the speedo.  
ISTR  that the ABS covers have the "bump outs" where the covers go.  I sealed 
 them with "bun bum and they seem to work fine.  I also seem to recall that 
 TRF has them listed in their TR6 catalogue.  If they are not available you 
 might want to contact Scott Harper at Team Triumph to see if you can 
obtain  them.
 
Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs
 
 
In a message dated 7/6/2011 1:31:19 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
6pack-request at autox.team.net writes:

The shop  manual section for this job says to
remove right side tunnel carpet and  
take off access cover, great except that
my 73 is an A type OD  conversion, so no 
got one.
The plastc tunnel cover from
the RF  didn't have that option when I bought  it.

From davgil at aol.com  Wed Jul  6 13:55:11 2011
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 06 Jul 2011 15:55:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w4445CC3A60B89533E1F654805E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w4445CC3A60B89533E1F654805E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CE0A2DBFA80FEA-1A40-330CE@webmail-m010.sysops.aol.com>

James,
I have that problem occasionally.  I have found that when I remove and replace
the connections to the alternator a few times, the problem is temporarily
resolved.  I need to clean the contacts well and probably use a little
dialectric grease on them, but it somehow seems easier just to remove and
replace the plug a time or two and enjoy the drive.  This may or may not help
with your problem.
David Gill
1976 TR6






-----Original Message-----
From: James_ TR6 <jattr6 at hotmail.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, Jul 6, 2011 1:29 pm
Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?


Ok, I have Dan Master's electrical book.My Red Ignition light comes on while
riving.Sometimes it waits a while to come on.I had my alternator tested. Was
old it is perfect.Battery is good too. hmmm?
ny ideas?
________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/davgil at aol.com

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Jul  6 15:50:28 2011
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 16:50:28 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
Message-ID: <8531012.1309989028716.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

James,

Years ago I had a light ( I believe it was the red ignition light) stay on.  The problem was the brake differential switch (PDWA switch).  The o rings leaked fluid and caused the switch to short or the slide piston was off center activating the switch.  Try removing the electrical connector to the PDWA switch. Repair of the PDWA switch is up to you.  I left the switch connector disconnected ever since.

Regards,
Greg Perry


-----Original Message-----
>From: James_ TR6 <jattr6 at hotmail.com>
>Sent: Jul 6, 2011 12:29 PM
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
>
>Ok, I have Dan Master's electrical book.My Red Ignition light comes on while
>driving.Sometimes it waits a while to come on.I had my alternator tested. Was
>told it is perfect.Battery is good too. hmmm?
>Any ideas?
>
>________________________________________
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>
>Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgperry at earthlink.net

From jattr6 at hotmail.com  Wed Jul  6 17:27:02 2011
From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 23:27:02 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
In-Reply-To: <8531012.1309989028716.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <8531012.1309989028716.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <BLU151-w48CD7BDFDC51F94F8C460E805E0@phx.gbl>

Thanks Greg!
I had that experience too, but i think the PDWA only affected the brake
light.for years i had my brake light bulb disabled....until i rebuilt the PDWA
and bleed the brakesto re-align the piston.but thanks...i think i have a
gremlin elsewhere.
side note, we all hear people poke fun of Lucas and our cars, but i have found
Lucas to be great.the only time i have an issue is when in fact there is an
issue. :-)sure, it may be poor/bad connections due to design...but mostly
age.

> Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 16:50:28 -0500
> From: rgperry at earthlink.net
> To: jattr6 at hotmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
>
> James,
>
> Years ago I had a light ( I believe it was the red ignition light) stay on.
The problem was the brake differential switch (PDWA switch).  The o rings
leaked fluid and caused the switch to short or the slide piston was off center
activating the switch.  Try removing the electrical connector to the PDWA
switch. Repair of the PDWA switch is up to you.  I left the switch connector
disconnected ever since.
>
> Regards,
> Greg Perry
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> >From: James_ TR6 <jattr6 at hotmail.com>
> >Sent: Jul 6, 2011 12:29 PM
> >To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> >Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
> >
> >Ok, I have Dan Master's electrical book.My Red Ignition light comes on
while
> >driving.Sometimes it waits a while to come on.I had my alternator tested.
Was
> >told it is perfect.Battery is good too. hmmm?
> >Any ideas?
> >
> >________________________________________
> >
> >6pack at autox.team.net
> >
> >Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> >Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> >Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgperry at earthlink.net

From colinthom at shaw.ca  Wed Jul  6 22:23:21 2011
From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom)
Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 21:23:21 -0700
Subject: [6pack] shifting hot
Message-ID: <001401cc3c5d$9b0fa2a0$d12ee7e0$@ca>

Hi Gang. Back in May I posted a query about my car not shifting well once
things got hot. I'm pleased to report that after resealing, then replacing
the CMC and CSC and paying careful attention to the bleeding thereof, things
are once again right in my world. I also switched from DOT 5 to DOT 4 but
who knows if that made a difference or not. Many thanks to Dick Taylor and
Bill Wellbaum for advice along the way. Colin '75. Oh..does a guy grease the
clevis pins in his clutch linkage? If yes, with what?

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu Jul  7 07:45:58 2011
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 13:45:58 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w4445CC3A60B89533E1F654805E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w4445CC3A60B89533E1F654805E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W266B67D518451CE1F57BCF8E410@phx.gbl>

Brother had this issue on his 73. He was missing the engine-block to body
grounding wire. It would find ground somewhere, but intermittently lose
ground, and light would flicker. He burned up 2 alternators before our
mechanic noticed he was missing this wire. Problem solved.

Sloane :o)
69-Six


> From: jattr6 at hotmail.com
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 6 Jul 2011 17:29:54 +0000
> Subject: [6pack] Red Ignition Light?
>
> Ok, I have Dan Master's electrical book.My Red Ignition light comes on
while
> driving.Sometimes it waits a while to come on.I had my alternator tested.
Was
> told it is perfect.Battery is good too. hmmm?
> Any ideas?

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jul  7 13:46:32 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 07 Jul 2011 19:46:32 GMT
Subject: [6pack] shifting hot
Message-ID: <COL123-DS358DCAEF8E307AA2E9990F4410@phx.gbl>

Wheel bearing grease was about the best I found to minimize wear at the pedal box linkage. Even so, eventually the bore in the clutch pedal arm was excessive enough to warrant boring it out, and sleeving it back to the original size. I used bronze for the bushing, and also made a bronze clevis pin. Overkill maybe, but...

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Colin Thom
Sent: Wednesday, July 6, 2011 9:23 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] shifting hot

Hi Gang. Back in May I posted a query about my car not shifting well once
things got hot. I'm pleased to report that after resealing, then replacing
the CMC and CSC and paying careful attention to the bleeding thereof, things
are once again right in my world. I also switched from DOT 5 to DOT 4 but
who knows if that made a difference or not. Many thanks to Dick Taylor and
Bill Wellbaum for advice along the way. Colin '75. Oh..does a guy grease the
clevis pins in his clutch linkage? If yes, with what?

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Jul  7 16:06:07 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 7 Jul 2011 18:06:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] question on magnesium wheels
In-Reply-To: <DED559A69D8F4D8D884E5152439C963B@trixi>
References: <3a5cf.7c95b718.3b39d95c@cs.com><BANLkTi=QDcn3GQUAib3wLV1fGBAGGscuyw@mail.gmail.com><4E092E8E.5020901@rmi.net><4E150277.2040807@rmi.net>
	<DED559A69D8F4D8D884E5152439C963B@trixi>
Message-ID: <18290F2171F94A3D96EA7083849D7756@DCH6RFC1>

Oh all-knowing ones:

Can magnesium wheels (torq thrust, American racing Silverstone, came on
triumphs) be repaired?  My recollection of chemistry would suggest that Mg +
heat = nasty explosion, but what if you have a wheel with a cracked rim?

Andrew Uprichard

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 16:14:39 2011
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 18:14:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Insurance for Vacation Travel
Message-ID: <8DBC1AB9-79E7-48FD-B8F4-D1CB28272C09@nc.rr.com>

Anybody know of a good source for comprehensive insurance that would cover a
cross-country trip?
The three companies I know of (who deal in classic-car comprehensive) don't
cover that kind of use.

Barring that, any TR events in Seattle, LA, and Austin (late Jul - early Aug)
that I can go to as my primary destinations?

Doug Morris, NC, '74 CF-18xxx-UO

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Fri Jul  8 17:13:57 2011
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 19:13:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Glove Compartment Hinge Screws
Message-ID: <3EB9935D-2CB1-428F-B5E4-2704366695E4@nc.rr.com>

Has anyone repaired loose glove-compartment hinge screws?
I just added the nifty finger-hook dealio to my glove-compartment push
button,
but the hinge screws are barely hangin' in.
(I think they're still workin' only out of habit; and I'd hate to have cigars,
revolver, sunglasses, flashlight, pressure gauge, pens, etc. come tumbling out
unexpectedly.)
I'd re-drill and plug the holes, if I could get a drill in there;
buuut maybe there's a proven better way.
(No, bigger screws don't work.)

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Fri Jul  8 18:12:11 2011
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 20:12:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR: question on magnesium wheels
Message-ID: <380-2201176901211109@earthlink.net>

Andrew,

I had a set of 5 ARE Silverstone magnesium wheels for my TR250. I had them
repaired in York, PA, by some large company that advertised in Hemmings.
They were able to repair and weld without any difficulty.

I had one wheel with a chunk missing out of the rim, and they repaired it
beautifully. I had another with 3 cracked spokes, and they pronounced it
unrepairable. I guess it depends on how badly damaged the wheels are.

Good luck. To

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul  8 18:42:13 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 8 Jul 2011 20:42:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Glove Compartment Hinge Screws
In-Reply-To: <3EB9935D-2CB1-428F-B5E4-2704366695E4@nc.rr.com>
References: <3EB9935D-2CB1-428F-B5E4-2704366695E4@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <5166084E94F04BC5BA35CFEEABE2450B@BobPC>

You could try breaking a wood toothpick into the hole to see if it gives the 
screws something to bite into. Or fill the holes with plastic wood, screw 
just the screws (no door or hinge) in while it's still soft, let it harden 
and back the screws out.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Douglas Morris
Sent: Friday, July 08, 2011 7:13 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Glove Compartment Hinge Screws

Has anyone repaired loose glove-compartment hinge screws?
I just added the nifty finger-hook dealio to my glove-compartment push
button,
but the hinge screws are barely hangin' in.
(I think they're still workin' only out of habit; and I'd hate to have 
cigars,
revolver, sunglasses, flashlight, pressure gauge, pens, etc. come tumbling 
out
unexpectedly.)
I'd re-drill and plug the holes, if I could get a drill in there;
buuut maybe there's a proven better way.
(No, bigger screws don't work.)

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Jul  8 19:51:57 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 01:51:57 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Glove Compartment Hinge Screws
Message-ID: <COL123-DS1623A9235D13C125F727D8F4430@phx.gbl>

Douglas---I filled these hinge holes with a product called "FIXALL". It's a powder to be mixed with water. It hardens fairly quick. I poked the mixture down into the stripped holes, then stuck toothpicks down to compress as much as possible. I sort of remember leaving pieces of these 'picks (the round style) down in the holes during the setup. Anyway, it's been holding up for the years since I redid the dash wood.
There's probably better stuff, like maybe plastic wood that could do the job. tho I haven't seen this product on shelves in some time. 
 And I was able to use the original screws.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas Morris
Sent: Friday, July 8, 2011 4:13 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Glove Compartment Hinge Screws

Has anyone repaired loose glove-compartment hinge screws?
I just added the nifty finger-hook dealio to my glove-compartment push
button,
but the hinge screws are barely hangin' in.
(I think they're still workin' only out of habit; and I'd hate to have cigars,
revolver, sunglasses, flashlight, pressure gauge, pens, etc. come tumbling out
unexpectedly.)
I'd re-drill and plug the holes, if I could get a drill in there;
buuut maybe there's a proven better way.
(No, bigger screws don't work.)

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Jul  9 09:50:51 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 9 Jul 2011 10:50:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Servo Question
Message-ID: <CAFWFMygZx_fRMAjBJTEBymzo-EKZba1i7LZPchuOk0jimPytBQ@mail.gmail.com>

All,

I have just received a rebuilt servo and it came without the white plastic
fitting for the vacuum line. I have the
fitting that I need in another servo unit, but I don't know how to get it
out and have a strong desire not
to break it while trying to get it out. Has someone out there been there,
done that?

THANKS,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From jsnable at mac.com  Sat Jul  9 10:55:22 2011
From: jsnable at mac.com (Jay Snable)
Date: Sat, 09 Jul 2011 09:55:22 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Servo Question
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMygZx_fRMAjBJTEBymzo-EKZba1i7LZPchuOk0jimPytBQ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMygZx_fRMAjBJTEBymzo-EKZba1i7LZPchuOk0jimPytBQ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <01ADE38A-8CF7-4ED1-827A-21C73E83AB60@mac.com>

I rebuilt my servo quite a few years back, and if I remember correctly that piece just pulls out (there may be a slight barb to hold it in). I'd try to get some lubrication in there and work it out slowly - it's probably pretty brittle by now!

Jay
'73 TR6

On Jul 9, 2011, at 8:50 AM, Irv Korey wrote:

> All,
> 
> I have just received a rebuilt servo and it came without the white plastic
> fitting for the vacuum line. I have the
> fitting that I need in another servo unit, but I don't know how to get it
> out and have a strong desire not
> to break it while trying to get it out. Has someone out there been there,
> done that?
> 
> THANKS,
> 
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> 
> ________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jsnable at mac.com

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sun Jul 10 08:44:46 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 09:44:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Servo Question
In-Reply-To: <01ADE38A-8CF7-4ED1-827A-21C73E83AB60@mac.com>
References: <CAFWFMygZx_fRMAjBJTEBymzo-EKZba1i7LZPchuOk0jimPytBQ@mail.gmail.com>
	<01ADE38A-8CF7-4ED1-827A-21C73E83AB60@mac.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyic4jth=zYgg95mpu0EFOJ7XXasSFx7pUEWW=pWZooofQ@mail.gmail.com>

On Sat, Jul 9, 2011 at 11:55 AM, Jay Snable <jsnable at mac.com> wrote:

> I rebuilt my servo quite a few years back, and if I remember correctly that
> piece just pulls out (there may be a slight barb to hold it in). I'd try to
> get some lubrication in there and work it out slowly - it's probably pretty
> brittle by now!
>

Thanks to the advice from Jay Snable, John Mitchell, Tim Hutchison, and
Jerry V V, I was able to successfully extract my fitting this AM.

Thanks for the help, guys.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 10 19:11:50 2011
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 21:11:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA switch leak
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwi1vWz9PQiXx2zHcPhrSDv0xSRozyzJbHNL8r4yHj_oVA@mail.gmail.com>

Hey team ~

I noticed my brake pedal getting lower, of late. Each time I went for a
drive I noted it
was a bit softer pedal. Now I'm at the point of saying I'm not driving ther
car until I
figure it out. Tried to bleed the brakes but kept getting bubbles and the
pedal wasn't
improving. So, I figured I had a leak in the system somewhere. After
investigation, it
appears that when I pump the brake pedal some, I get brake fluid (DOT 5)
coming up
out of the PDWA switch though the *top* of the nylon switch, around the
warning light
wire. Anyone (everyone) ever had this problem before? TRF wants $58.91 for
that little
nylon switch and, if there's a way to fix it without replacing it, I'd sure
like to know....

Thanks in advance, for any BTDT advice offered.

Dave
'74 Six

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sun Jul 10 19:54:25 2011
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Jul 2011 01:54:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] PDWA switch leak
Message-ID: <105451890-1310349227-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-193497226-@b1.c20.bise6.blackberry>

The electrical switch does not hold pressure the little o-rings on the piston inside do.  Not hard to push the piston out and replace the o-rings.  If you take the old ones and piston to a local supplier you can probably get them for less than $0.50 if you order them you'll pay many times more just in S&H alone. 

Lou 
72 Pimento 
------Original Message------
From: David Friedlander
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] PDWA switch leak
Sent: Jul 10, 2011 8:11 PM

Hey team ~

I noticed my brake pedal getting lower, of late. Each time I went for a
drive I noted it
was a bit softer pedal. Now I'm at the point of saying I'm not driving ther
car until I
figure it out. Tried to bleed the brakes but kept getting bubbles and the
pedal wasn't
improving. So, I figured I had a leak in the system somewhere. After
investigation, it
appears that when I pump the brake pedal some, I get brake fluid (DOT 5)
coming up
out of the PDWA switch though the *top* of the nylon switch, around the
warning light
wire. Anyone (everyone) ever had this problem before? TRF wants $58.91 for
that little
nylon switch and, if there's a way to fix it without replacing it, I'd sure
like to know....

Thanks in advance, for any BTDT advice offered.

Dave
'74 Six

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jul 10 20:15:08 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 22:15:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA switch leak
In-Reply-To: <CAJ1eQwi1vWz9PQiXx2zHcPhrSDv0xSRozyzJbHNL8r4yHj_oVA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAJ1eQwi1vWz9PQiXx2zHcPhrSDv0xSRozyzJbHNL8r4yHj_oVA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <9B36814C5774419D83D45B4ADCF04285@BobPC>

Dave,
Moss has a couple of excellent videos posted on You Tube for rebuilding the 
switch

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7hk73mih2pc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Z79ATcN-juw

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1oI2yrRCUVI

Look them over............ might fix your problem.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



-----Original Message----- 
From: David Friedlander
Sent: Sunday, July 10, 2011 9:11 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] PDWA switch leak

Hey team ~

I noticed my brake pedal getting lower, of late. Each time I went for a
drive I noted it
was a bit softer pedal. Now I'm at the point of saying I'm not driving ther
car until I
figure it out. Tried to bleed the brakes but kept getting bubbles and the
pedal wasn't
improving. So, I figured I had a leak in the system somewhere. After
investigation, it
appears that when I pump the brake pedal some, I get brake fluid (DOT 5)
coming up
out of the PDWA switch though the *top* of the nylon switch, around the
warning light
wire. Anyone (everyone) ever had this problem before? TRF wants $58.91 for
that little
nylon switch and, if there's a way to fix it without replacing it, I'd sure
like to know....

Thanks in advance, for any BTDT advice offered.

Dave
'74 Six

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Sun Jul 10 20:33:54 2011
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sun, 10 Jul 2011 22:33:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA switch leak
In-Reply-To: <105451890-1310349227-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-193497226-@b1.c20.bise6.blackberry>
References: <105451890-1310349227-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-193497226-@b1.c20.bise6.blackberry>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwj1v00EGXBSv_s6+kwfgZ+kO3oj8rZYiX8UcpVAGZ+jrQ@mail.gmail.com>

Cool! I should have remembered that as I rebuilt the PDWA just 3-4 years
ago. Seems 'early' for the o-rings to fail. I know they make o-rings out of
many different rubber compounds.So, because of the 'early' failure, I now
suspect I may have used a correct o-ring size when I last rebuilt the PDWA
but perhaps the WRONG O-RING MATERIAL.

For those interested, see the first chart here, for compatibility of static
and
dynamic seal materials used with brake fluids:

http://www.efunda.com/designstandards/oring/oring_chemical.cfm?SM=none&SC=Brake%20Fluid

I may go with teflon rings, this time.....

Thanks to all for your inputs!

Dave
'74 Six


On Sun, Jul 10, 2011 at 9:54 PM, <lfm614 at aol.com> wrote:

> The electrical switch does not hold pressure the little o-rings on the
> piston inside do.  Not hard to push the piston out and replace the o-rings.
>  If you take the old ones and piston to a local supplier you can probably
> get them for less than $0.50 if you order them you'll pay many times more
> just in S&H alone.
>
> Lou
> 72 Pimento
> ------Original Message------
> From: David Friedlander
> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
> To: TR-6 list
> Subject: [6pack] PDWA switch leak
> Sent: Jul 10, 2011 8:11 PM
>
> Hey team ~
>
> I noticed my brake pedal getting lower, of late. Each time I went for a
> drive I noted it
> was a bit softer pedal. Now I'm at the point of saying I'm not driving ther
> car until I
> figure it out. Tried to bleed the brakes but kept getting bubbles and the
> pedal wasn't
> improving. So, I figured I had a leak in the system somewhere. After
> investigation, it
> appears that when I pump the brake pedal some, I get brake fluid (DOT 5)
> coming up
> out of the PDWA switch though the *top* of the nylon switch, around the
> warning light
> wire. Anyone (everyone) ever had this problem before? TRF wants $58.91 for
> that little
> nylon switch and, if there's a way to fix it without replacing it, I'd sure
> like to know....
>
> Thanks in advance, for any BTDT advice offered.
>
> Dave
> '74 Six
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Jul 14 07:22:10 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 09:22:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Retr0bright update
References: <1e70c.36908880.3b36604d@aol.com>
	<COL119-W37A4214075F50444A0BF68A5550@phx.gbl>
	<1B0658A4F25F480C8463959CBC1A5F31@DCH6RFC1>
	<1309092665.99744.YahooMailNeo@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 
Message-ID: <BC940FD3081340E3935CDAB20CA34EFF@DCH6RFC1>

So I ordered hydrogen peroxide, glycerine, gum and Oxyclean, as well as a
blender as my wife wasn't to keen on me using hers.  I followed the
instructions and came up with a sticky goo which was almost impossible to
get off my hands, the bench and everything else it came into contact with.
Turns out I made enough to coat a car, so next time I'll rachet down the
quantities.

 

I smeared the goo over the washer and radiator overflow bottles and set them
in the sun for 2 days as instructed.  Once it dried, washing it off was
fairly simple.  It's hard to say, but I think both are less yellow than
previously.  The instructions have a "rinse and repeat" suggestions, so I'm
going to give it a second shot when I get some more supplies.

 

I realize I cannot attach pictures to these emails, but if anyone wants
before and afters, I'll be glad to send them along after the second
application.  Then you can decide if it's worth it.

 

Andrew Uprichard

 

  _____  

From: Andrew Uprichard [mailto:auprichard at uprichard.net] 
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 11:37 AM
To: 'Dale'; 'triumphs at autox.team.net'; '6pack at autox.team.net'
Subject: RE: [6pack] question

 

Thanks to all who replied.  I had tried vinegar and bleach, as well as those
effervescent tablets used to clean dentures (they work a charm for glass
decanter bottles) - all to no avail.  Randall had suggested Retr0bright and
sent a link - I'll give it a try and get back to y'all.

 

Andrew Uprichard

 

  _____  

From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Sunday, June 26, 2011 8:51 AM
To: Andrew Uprichard; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] question

 

Andrew

 

There was a suggestion in the past to fill the bottle in a container, for
inside snd outside of the bottle, with a light mixture of vinegarand let it
sit for a few days.

 

Dale

 

From: Andrew Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, June 25, 2011 8:23 AM
Subject: [6pack] question

Do any of you brainiacs have any suggestions on how to clean up a very
yellow-looking washer bottle for my TR250 - that is, if it is even possible?

Not a big deal, but if there were a way to do it, I'd be interested.
Thanks!

Andrew Uprichard

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From daybell7 at aol.com  Thu Jul 14 15:22:37 2011
From: daybell7 at aol.com (daybell7 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 17:22:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Hard Starting New SU6 Carbs
Message-ID: <8CE10834A02EB2E-CB0-27062@webmail-m149.sysops.aol.com>

TR6'ers,

My car needs full choke to start and must run for 5 minutes or so before I can
close the choke.  It starts when I stop cranking the starter.  I have new SU6
Carbs that were pre-adjusted when I received them.  The outside temperature
doesn't seem to affect the process.

My other cars start easier using the choke, but I can close the choke almost
immediately.

How can I start my car without the choke or similar to my other cars.

Thanks in advance.

Steve Hughes
Gainesville, FL
68 BGT
72 MGB
59 Morris Minor
73 TR6

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 14 16:24:10 2011
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 15:24:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Retr0bright update
Message-ID: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Did I miss something here?  Moss lists the overflow bottle for
$12.95!!  Buying 
a new one seems a lot easier than the exercise you have been
through.

Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6

From tr6 at lbcs.ca  Thu Jul 14 17:33:29 2011
From: tr6 at lbcs.ca (Dave More)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 17:33:29 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Hard Starting New SU6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <8CE10834A02EB2E-CB0-27062@webmail-m149.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE10834A02EB2E-CB0-27062@webmail-m149.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4E1F7CC9.1010001@lbcs.ca>

FWIW I experience the same condition on my SU conversion. I've just 
become used to it as once things are warmed up with the choke in the 
mixture is perfect.

Cheers,
Dave More
76 TR6  CF58310

On 14/07/2011 3:22 PM, daybell7 at aol.com wrote:
> TR6'ers,
>
> My car needs full choke to start and must run for 5 minutes or so before I can
> close the choke.  It starts when I stop cranking the starter.  I have new SU6
> Carbs that were pre-adjusted when I received them.  The outside temperature
> doesn't seem to affect the process.
>
> My other cars start easier using the choke, but I can close the choke almost
> immediately.
>
> How can I start my car without the choke or similar to my other cars.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL
> 68 BGT
> 72 MGB
> 59 Morris Minor
> 73 TR6
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6 at lbcs.ca
>
>

-- 

Cheers,
Dave

From djfidler at rogers.com  Thu Jul 14 17:55:47 2011
From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 19:55:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hard Starting New SU6 Carbs
In-Reply-To: <8CE10834A02EB2E-CB0-27062@webmail-m149.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CE10834A02EB2E-CB0-27062@webmail-m149.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <D2FC2F1D-FE14-4415-8236-664A235C0BD6@rogers.com>

Steve,

The choke is there for a reason, to add gas when you start the car and for a
while afterwards, while the engine warms up. Trying to hurry this process is
counterproductive. 5 mins on choke is about right (longer if it's a cold day).
If your other cars require less choke, they're probably running too rich.

Best regards,

David (Fid).

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 14, 2011, at 5:22 PM, daybell7 at aol.com wrote:

> TR6'ers,
>
> My car needs full choke to start and must run for 5 minutes or so before I
can
> close the choke.  It starts when I stop cranking the starter.  I have new
SU6
> Carbs that were pre-adjusted when I received them.  The outside temperature
> doesn't seem to affect the process.
>
> My other cars start easier using the choke, but I can close the choke
almost
> immediately.
>
> How can I start my car without the choke or similar to my other cars.
>
> Thanks in advance.
>
> Steve Hughes
> Gainesville, FL
> 68 BGT
> 72 MGB
> 59 Morris Minor
> 73 TR6
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 14 19:04:05 2011
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 18:04:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] ??
Message-ID: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Where is everybody?  Like me, can't afford a battery and insurance,,,,

From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu Jul 14 19:40:20 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:40:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ??
In-Reply-To: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyg5Dvz6b4UG16esK9cO1E7gh36EcG+qJmkaHyQc8oBzxA@mail.gmail.com>

On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:04 PM, John Summers <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>wrote:

> Where is everybody?  Like me, can't afford a battery and insurance,,,,
>


Mostly on the 6-Pack Forum I suspect.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jul 14 20:19:44 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 22:19:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ??
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyg5Dvz6b4UG16esK9cO1E7gh36EcG+qJmkaHyQc8oBzxA@mail.gmail.com>
References: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAFWFMyg5Dvz6b4UG16esK9cO1E7gh36EcG+qJmkaHyQc8oBzxA@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <5424F7620B064E588CD706C25B23C0CC@BobPC>

Hate to say it but................. the TR6 gang is in the www.6-pack.com 
forum.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Irv Korey
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:40 PM
To: John Summers
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] ??

On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:04 PM, John Summers <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>wrote:

> Where is everybody?  Like me, can't afford a battery and insurance,,,,
>


Mostly on the 6-Pack Forum I suspect.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
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From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu Jul 14 21:21:41 2011
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 20:21:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] signing off....
Message-ID: <1310700101.70694.YahooMailClassic@web160718.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Friends:
 
It has been eight years since I bought my 72 Emerald car, 2003. And eight
years that I've been a very small part of this forum. It's been a great ride
and you all are among the most generous friends I've never met. I listed my
car for sale on Hemmings.com five days ago. It sold three days later, which
astonished me. Dumb luck, I guess. Life has gotten very crazy in the past
year. My sister has non-curable cancer, my wife was diagnosed with aggressive
cancer in March, and my father passed away last month. It is time to simplify
my life.
 
I sign off from this list with a bit of the email I sent to the new owner of
my car. I think it probably applies to a lot of you all out there.
 
I encourage you to drive the car as much as you can before you make any
changes on it. Learn the car. It will talk to you, if you listen to it. Unlike
modern cars, you can feel the car; the lifters ticking, the piston slap, the
carb sucking air into the motor's lungs, the clutch engagement
sighing noise. The manual choke requires a only a deft touch. Everything you
see is what it appears to be - metal, plastic, wood, rubber. Nothing is
representational, no secrets, no deceptions. I suppose this sounds somewhat
Zen-like but these old cars communicate in ways that modern stuff that
is oh-so-refined and filtered cannot.
 
If you infer that I am passionate about the car that will soon no longer be
mine, you are correct. During its rebirth I bumped my head on it uncountable
times. I screamed at it. I cried over it. I bled upon it. People probably
snickered skeptically at me as I labored hours into the night. It will always
carry a bit of me until it is junked. It's not like birthing a child, but once
you go through that process working mostly alone, there is a connection
created that endures beyond the completion of the work.
 
I wish you all well. Keep the lights burning brightly in Lucas Land!
 
Jim Jones
Jefferson City, MO

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Jul 14 21:36:06 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 14 Jul 2011 21:36:06 -0600
Subject: [6pack] ??
In-Reply-To: <5424F7620B064E588CD706C25B23C0CC@BobPC>
References: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAFWFMyg5Dvz6b4UG16esK9cO1E7gh36EcG+qJmkaHyQc8oBzxA@mail.gmail.com>
	<5424F7620B064E588CD706C25B23C0CC@BobPC>
Message-ID: <86133ADB-6F48-4B65-AD62-B6D051DF1AD7@comcast.net>

Guess I'm out of the gang then.  Dang.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 14, 2011, at 8:19 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Hate to say it but................. the TR6 gang is in the www.6-pack.com 
>  forum.
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:40 PM
> To: John Summers
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] ??
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:04 PM, John Summers  
> <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>> Where is everybody?  Like me, can't afford a battery and  
>> insurance,,,,
>>
>
>
> Mostly on the 6-Pack Forum I suspect.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Jul 15 05:35:21 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 07:35:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Retr0bright update
In-Reply-To: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C6C745B7C07F4331946E6C1284400864@DCH6RFC1>

I am probably the last person to insist on originality.  For this car, I
have written an article for VTR detailing all the modifications. Everything
from a frame strengthening kit, shock tower conversion and sealed ball
bearing trailing arm conversion to +60 forged pistons and steel billet
connecting rods, cam bearings and a fast road cam. 

But every now and then one sees a piece and wonders, "can I clean this up
and use it again?"  So it was with the bottles, and the experiment with
Retr0bright.  

I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being crazy)is
a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list.........

Andrew Uprichard


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 6:24 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Retr0bright update

Did I miss something here?  Moss lists the overflow bottle for
$12.95!!  Buying 
a new one seems a lot easier than the exercise you have been
through.

Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jul 15 06:15:16 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 08:15:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ??
In-Reply-To: <86133ADB-6F48-4B65-AD62-B6D051DF1AD7@comcast.net>
References: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAFWFMyg5Dvz6b4UG16esK9cO1E7gh36EcG+qJmkaHyQc8oBzxA@mail.gmail.com>
	<5424F7620B064E588CD706C25B23C0CC@BobPC>
	<86133ADB-6F48-4B65-AD62-B6D051DF1AD7@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3B646B1046364EC2A4813676388EF3B8@BobPC>

Awwww Bud......... but your cruise control is alive and well in the Forum 
;-) It was quite an attention getter.

Bob

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bud Rolofson
Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 11:36 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: Irv Korey ; John Summers ; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] ??

Guess I'm out of the gang then.  Dang.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 14, 2011, at 8:19 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Hate to say it but................. the TR6 gang is in the www.6-pack.com 
> forum.
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:40 PM
> To: John Summers
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] ??
>
> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:04 PM, John Summers 
> <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>wrote:
>
>> Where is everybody?  Like me, can't afford a battery and  insurance,,,,
>>
>
>
> Mostly on the 6-Pack Forum I suspect.
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 15 06:23:56 2011
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 08:23:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] signing off....
In-Reply-To: <1310700101.70694.YahooMailClassic@web160718.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1310700101.70694.YahooMailClassic@web160718.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwgjQbVSRFM7DonTiSVghA-QScRobzr+vbix2sd7Q0R5xg@mail.gmail.com>

Wow, quite a piece of writing, Jim. Sounds like more than just a
few moments of wisdom and reflection contained within its "confines."

Our hearts go out to you and to all your loved ones. Our prayers
go out for you to find Strength in the days ahead...

Dave
'74 Six


On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 11:21 PM, Jim Jones <jimjcmo at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Friends:
>
> It has been eight years since I bought my 72 Emerald car, 2003. And eight
> years that I've been a very small part of this forum. It's been a great
> ride
> and you all are among the most generous friends I've never met. I listed my
> car for sale on Hemmings.com five days ago. It sold three days later, which
> astonished me. Dumb luck, I guess. Life has gotten very crazy in the past
> year. My sister has non-curable cancer, my wife was diagnosed with
> aggressive
> cancer in March, and my father passed away last month. It is time to
> simplify
> my life.
>
> I sign off from this list with a bit of the email I sent to the new owner
> of
> my car. I think it probably applies to a lot of you all out there.
>
> I encourage you to drive the car as much as you can before you make any
> changes on it. Learn the car. It will talk to you, if you listen to it.
> Unlike
> modern cars, you can feel the car; the lifters ticking, the piston slap,
> the
> carb sucking air into the motor's lungs, the clutch engagement
> sighing noise. The manual choke requires a only a deft touch. Everything
> you
> see is what it appears to be - metal, plastic, wood, rubber. Nothing is
> representational, no secrets, no deceptions. I suppose this sounds somewhat
> Zen-like but these old cars communicate in ways that modern stuff that
> is oh-so-refined and filtered cannot.
>
> If you infer that I am passionate about the car that will soon no longer be
> mine, you are correct. During its rebirth I bumped my head on it
> uncountable
> times. I screamed at it. I cried over it. I bled upon it. People probably
> snickered skeptically at me as I labored hours into the night. It will
> always
> carry a bit of me until it is junked. It's not like birthing a child, but
> once
> you go through that process working mostly alone, there is a connection
> created that endures beyond the completion of the work.
>
> I wish you all well. Keep the lights burning brightly in Lucas Land!
>
> Jim Jones
> Jefferson City, MO
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion7 at gmail.com

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Jul 15 06:58:06 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 08:58:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Retr0bright update
In-Reply-To: <4E203293.9090608@gmail.com>
References: <1310682250.56880.YahooMailRC@web161217.mail.bf1.yahoo.com><C6C745B7C07F4331946E6C1284400864@DCH6RFC1>
	<4E203293.9090608@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <95651424BF5947709B5C496A4EDBE6C2@DCH6RFC1>

I hate to pull the doctor card, but there is a condition known as folie `
plusieurs (madness shared by many), but perhaps we'll leave it at
that.......

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TeriAnn J. Wakeman
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 8:29 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Retr0bright update

On 7/15/11 4:35 AM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:
> I was going to say "call me crazy" until I realized that it (being
crazy)is
> a prerequisite to owning these cars and subscribing to this list.........
>
>
I'm a firm believer in the concept "Reality is what you make of it." and
sanity is defined by a consensus of a sample group.  If you confine your
sample group to subscribers of this list then you would be crazy not to
own a TR.

Ergo, I am perfectly sane.

Teriann


triumphs at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Fri Jul 15 11:17:17 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 11:17:17 -0600
Subject: [6pack] ??
In-Reply-To: <3B646B1046364EC2A4813676388EF3B8@BobPC>
References: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAFWFMyg5Dvz6b4UG16esK9cO1E7gh36EcG+qJmkaHyQc8oBzxA@mail.gmail.com>
	<5424F7620B064E588CD706C25B23C0CC@BobPC>
	<86133ADB-6F48-4B65-AD62-B6D051DF1AD7@comcast.net>
	<3B646B1046364EC2A4813676388EF3B8@BobPC>
Message-ID: <2DA78D73-2693-4776-81AC-7DA33A0C7896@comcast.net>

Bob,

I have nothing against the 6pack forum but maybe I should at least  
explain my thinking.  Here's my take.

I find forums set up like the 6-pack forum to be cold.  I've tried  
other forums like that such as the Ford truck forum, and a RC plane  
forum and they all seem less personal than the email lists.   I guess  
its just my personal reaction to all the categories and sections.  I  
have no idea what category to be in or what to read or what to sign up  
for.  And I don't want to sign up for them all.  I know attachments  
and pictures are supposed to be an advantage on the forum but there's  
so many ways to convey info on the internet that isn't a huge plus for  
me.  I obviously don't get it...what the big attraction is.  I can  
understand organized, engineer type thinking people liking the forum  
but that doesn't describe me.  I'm more of a Triumph generalist I  
guess and like to read about cars other than just the 6 bangers.

My experience is that certain things on the 6-pack forum aren't  
available to a guest and I can't seem to satisfy the registration  
requirements.  It's a major pain to try over and over again only to  
have to retype everything every time so I just gave up.

Enough people are still on the 6pack and general Triumph email list  
that I always get questions answered so I guess I'll muddle along.  At  
least I have an idea of who I'm talking to on the list...whereas I  
don't recognize anyone on the 6-pack forum but I know that's a  
function of having been on the list for 14 years.  Its just easier  
knowing who the ramblers/chatters are and who the tech/knowhow people  
are and I've developed my internal calibration over the years to pick  
and choose which to read and I'll do both depending on time available  
and mood.   I'm comfortable stuck in my rut I guess.

Glad to hear the cruise control info was useful to some.  I take  
solace knowing that anything of value from the forum will show up on  
the list from the folks that do both, like you.

Regards
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 15, 2011, at 6:15 AM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Awwww Bud......... but your cruise control is alive and well in the  
> Forum ;-) It was quite an attention getter.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 11:36 PM
> To: Bob Danielson
> Cc: Irv Korey ; John Summers ; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] ??
>
> Guess I'm out of the gang then.  Dang.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2011, at 8:19 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:
>
>> Hate to say it but................. the TR6 gang is in the www.6-pack.com 
>>  forum.
>>
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>> 1975 TR6 with:
>> Throttle Body Injection
>> Toyota 5 Speed
>> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:40 PM
>> To: John Summers
>> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] ??
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:04 PM, John Summers  
>> <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Where is everybody?  Like me, can't afford a battery and   
>>> insurance,,,,
>>>
>>
>>
>> Mostly on the 6-Pack Forum I suspect.
>>
>> Irv Korey
>> 74 TR6 CF22767U
>> Highland Park, IL
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Jul 15 13:14:37 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 19:14:37 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Hard Starting New SU6 Carbs
Message-ID: <COL123-DS1AFDD85D31C37E0785FE6F4490@phx.gbl>

Steve---The need to use a Choke depends a lot on the temperature of the engine and surrounding temperatures. If you would like to reduce the time the choke is in use, you could just lower the jets on the SU's a couple of flats, or more. This will allow more fuel to pass thru, so the air/fuel mix will be richer. This lowering is easy enough to do, and entirely returnable to where they now are, (if you don't like the results) by counting the number of flats being lowered.

It would be good to know that there are no vacuum leaks, that cause a lean mix, more noticeable during warmup.

Also, feel the intake manifold pipe, to be sure there's (hot) water flowing thru it as the engine warms up. This aids greatly to the fuel atomization process.

There are several ways to check on whether this air/fuel mix is correct. Depending on one's budget and need-to-
know, we can use the simple but not always reliable sparkplug color test, ColorTune, or a tailpipe exhaust analysis, or even an air/fuel analyzer with the attendant 02 sensor. Know that enrichening the mix at idle speed, where it's critical, doesn't change the mix all that much at cruising speeds. There's always the possibility that the needles being used in these SU's are too lean to begin with, but that's for another post!

Dick

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Jul 15 14:56:55 2011
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 13:56:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] More ?
Message-ID: <1310763415.9455.YahooMailNeo@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I think you nailed it Bud.  The set-up here (which includes lots of cross-talk
posting) requires that contributors fully explain in a more narrative form
what they're talking about  - which in turn makes this list so nice and
"warm."
 
Joe Merone
CF18928 5-speed

>Bud Rolofson said: 
>I have nothing
against the 6pack forum but maybe I should at least  
>explain my thinking. 
Here's my take.
>I find forums set up like the 6-pack forum to be cold. 

From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com  Fri Jul 15 15:45:36 2011
From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 17:45:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is on vacation.
Message-ID: <OF852295D5.A1005276-ON852578CE.00778835-852578CE.00778835@CDCLN05.LVS.DUPONT.COM>

I will be out of the office starting  07/15/2011 and will not return until
07/18/2011.

I will be intermittantly checking my messages while I am out.   Please
leave me a voicemail at 919-248-5324 or contact Customer Service at
800-284-3382 ext 5775 for sales assistance or to place an order.    You can
email customer service at :
mcmustomerservice at usa.dupont.com

 Regards, Robert Waldrop


This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
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From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Fri Jul 15 16:50:54 2011
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 15:50:54 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hard Starting New SU6 Carbs
Message-ID: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F4114392411@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>

Steve,



If your TR isn't starting until you release the key, it sounds like you may
have a wire in the wrong place on your ignition switch.  Mine did this until I
picked up a copy of Dan Master's book and traced my wiring connections.  As
soon as I corrected my connections, the car started as normal.



Mike

Corvallis, OR

From forzion7 at gmail.com  Fri Jul 15 18:43:41 2011
From: forzion7 at gmail.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 20:43:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Them's the brakes....
Message-ID: <CAJ1eQwhUdpT7XgHbmuNTSY2q892uLNBPkmYoPmYm_Ro9j4ZYpQ@mail.gmail.com>

Hey List;

I have been trying to bleed my brakes after rebuilding the PDWA but can't
seem to get rid of the air bubbles in the brake lines. I'm using DOT5 and
SpeedBleeders but, at this rate, this could get expensive! I've checked for
air/fluid leaks elsewhere in the lines but have found nothing suspicious. No

drips under the booster, either. Perhaps there's just a LOT of air in the
lines....
Suggestions for where else to check??

Thanks, guys!

Dave Friedlander
'74 Six/A-OD + TBI

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 17 15:29:56 2011
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 17:29:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.
Message-ID: <E55DF5170C4D4B029A0711B34F6E5246@Robert>

Issue: One side flashes faster than the other. I have checked all the bulbs.
Checked all the grounds. Cleaned all the bulb holders and connectors.  Is it
the flasher unit itself? At this point I am baffled. Any help would be
appreciated.

 

Robert L. Gannon

http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/

From djfidler at rogers.com  Sun Jul 17 16:34:41 2011
From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 18:34:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.
In-Reply-To: <E55DF5170C4D4B029A0711B34F6E5246@Robert>
References: <E55DF5170C4D4B029A0711B34F6E5246@Robert>
Message-ID: <C9BAFB81-EEF9-40B2-926A-1A3D064FCA5C@rogers.com>

Hi Robert,

First of all check the wattage of all the bulbs and make sure they are they
same.

Second, check that you are using the proper turn signal flasher unit and NOT a
4-way flasher unit. The latter will work, but you'll never know if a bulb has
gone, as they are plumbed differently inside. With the proper unit, the turn
signal will stop flashing and stay on when a bulb fails.

Best regards,

David.

Sent from my iPhone

On Jul 17, 2011, at 5:29 PM, "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
wrote:

> Issue: One side flashes faster than the other. I have checked all the
bulbs.
> Checked all the grounds. Cleaned all the bulb holders and connectors.  Is
it
> the flasher unit itself? At this point I am baffled. Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Robert L. Gannon
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sun Jul 17 17:03:58 2011
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 16:03:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.
In-Reply-To: <E55DF5170C4D4B029A0711B34F6E5246@Robert>
References: <E55DF5170C4D4B029A0711B34F6E5246@Robert>
Message-ID: <1310943838.61819.YahooMailNeo@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Robert
 
Sounds like a bad ground on the slow side.  Dale

From: Robert Liam
Gannon <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, July 17,
2011 5:29 PM
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.

Issue: One side flashes faster
than the other. I have checked all the bulbs.
Checked all the grounds. Cleaned
all the bulb holders and connectors.  Is it
the flasher unit itself? At this
point I am baffled. Any help would be
appreciated.



Robert L. Gannon
http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/
________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Jul 17 18:44:35 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 00:44:35 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.
Message-ID: <COL123-DS12E2DD9368EA7F649008EDF44A0@phx.gbl>

Robert---There is more (or is it less?) resistance on the side that is flashing slower. Not always easy to find where this is happening. I went thru this exercise some time ago and accidently found replacement bulbs that flashed twice as fast (66 times/min.) I cheated here and just put the faster bulb on the side that was once too slow, for my liking. Now they flashed both at the same rate. 
I reported this to the Sixpack Editor back then, and he ran a story on "Those blankety-blank blinkers", or something like that. In the story I mentioned the brand & part no. of the bulb used, if you care to look it up?  
Meanwhile, try switching these two bulbs you now use from right to left, to see what happens!_I don't think it's the flasher itself.

Somewhere along the way, something else changed in my TR, as now both (new) bulbs flash at the same rate, still at over 60 per by my watch. Ignition key on, motor not running, no other load on the battery.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Liam Gannon
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 2:29 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.

Issue: One side flashes faster than the other. I have checked all the bulbs.
Checked all the grounds. Cleaned all the bulb holders and connectors.  Is it
the flasher unit itself? At this point I am baffled. Any help would be
appreciated.

 

Robert L. Gannon

http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Jul 17 19:04:11 2011
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 21:04:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS12E2DD9368EA7F649008EDF44A0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS12E2DD9368EA7F649008EDF44A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C58D7E1778074D5B9D46E662CB52F3BA@Robert>

Issue: One side flashes faster than the other.

Dick again has the answer for me. I checked the bulbs again. Guess what? One
bulb was made elsewhere in the world, three were identical US made. Removed
the simulated brass base unit and replaced with a new US made one and
everything works at the same speed.

Thanks all for your replies. All is well again. I can now blinkety blink in
a slow English rhythm and I say blankety blank to the producers of that
simulated brass bulb. 

From bratt at sasktel.net  Sun Jul 17 19:21:53 2011
From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed)
Date: Sun, 17 Jul 2011 19:21:53 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.
References: <E55DF5170C4D4B029A0711B34F6E5246@Robert>
Message-ID: <001801cc44e9$14740bc0$6401a8c0@CHALKIESCOMPUTER>

Robert:

>From my experience I would suggest you check the fine print on the bulbs. 
If the wattage of the bulbs differs the flash time will differ.  Even 
different brands of bulbs with the same wattage rating may have different 
resistance which can affect the flash rate.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, July 17, 2011 3:29 PM
Subject: [6pack] Indicator Issue.


> Issue: One side flashes faster than the other. I have checked all the 
> bulbs.
> Checked all the grounds. Cleaned all the bulb holders and connectors.  Is 
> it
> the flasher unit itself? At this point I am baffled. Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
>
>
> Robert L. Gannon
>
> http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net
>
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Version: 8.5.449 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3770 - Release Date: 07/17/11 
06:41:00

From davgil at aol.com  Mon Jul 18 07:08:41 2011
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 09:08:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] radiator contamination
Message-ID: <8CE1362F3552E20-2350-29EE@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com>

To the more well informed.
Yesterday was a beautiful weekend in North Georgia and I had the opportunity
for a nice drive with my 1976 TR6.  Great day until I heard that unusual sound
from up front and then smelled the unmistakeable odor of an overheated fan
belt.  As I looked for a place to pull off the road, I watched the
termperature climb to the top of my gauge.  Upon parking at a safe location I
popped the bonnet and watched the coolant continue to boil into the overflow
bottle.  Fortunately replacement of the broken belt (great reason to have a
spare on hand) and a half gallon of water into the cooled down radiator did
the trick.  The problem was that when I was able to remove the radiator cap, I
found several pieces of what appeared to be blue form-a-gasket material at the
filler neck.  My car always runs pretty cool and I have not had any
overheating issues.  I don't believe that it got hot enough to damage the
head.  Other than draining and flushing the coolant system, should I worry
about checking anything else?  I probably ran it another 30 minutes after the
repair and no signs of any problem whatsoever, or any leaking around the head
or water pump.  Your advice is welcomed.
Regards
David Gill
1976 TR6

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Jul 18 11:02:42 2011
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 17:02:42 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] radiator contamination
In-Reply-To: <8CE1362F3552E20-2350-29EE@webmail-m129.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <568719025.811125.1311008562240.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Could be excess sealer used on the waterpump gasket. I would continue to enjoy and just keep an eye on the temp gauge and water level. 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Jul 18 12:49:31 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 18:49:31 GMT
Subject: [6pack] radiator contamination
Message-ID: <COL123-DS5E561E8A9527062EB6140F44A0@phx.gbl>

David---I'm wondering what caused the "overheated fan belt"? If the belt smoked because one of the accessories was dragging, then this could happen again with the new belt. It would be easy enough to slacken the belt and try turning both the waterpump and the alternator, by hand. If both feel smooth enough thru several revolutions, then things here should be OK. Be sure to use the right (1/2 inch) wide belt, that should match all the pulleys.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: davgil at aol.com
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 6:08 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] radiator contamination

To the more well informed.
Yesterday was a beautiful weekend in North Georgia and I had the opportunity
for a nice drive with my 1976 TR6.  Great day until I heard that unusual sound
from up front and then smelled the unmistakeable odor of an overheated fan
belt.  As I looked for a place to pull off the road, I watched the
termperature climb to the top of my gauge.  Upon parking at a safe location I
popped the bonnet and watched the coolant continue to boil into the overflow
bottle.  Fortunately replacement of the broken belt (great reason to have a
spare on hand) and a half gallon of water into the cooled down radiator did
the trick.  The problem was that when I was able to remove the radiator cap, I
found several pieces of what appeared to be blue form-a-gasket material at the
filler neck.  My car always runs pretty cool and I have not had any
overheating issues.  I don't believe that it got hot enough to damage the
head.  Other than draining and flushing the coolant system, should I worry
about checking anything else?  I probably ran it another 30 minutes after the
repair and no signs of any problem whatsoever, or any leaking around the head
or water pump.  Your advice is welcomed.
Regards
David Gill
1976 TR6

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Mon Jul 18 18:49:24 2011
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 17:49:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR Gearboxes
Message-ID: <E6C7FD24230B42A68327DE84CDF5A322@office>

A friend with a '59 TR-3 encountered a loud bang (he said it resembled a large
backfire) and the whole car shook while accelerating in 2nd gear.  Now, when
in second, he has loud clicking and growling sounds and when going round a
corner the gear lever rocks back and forth and the growling is worse.  He said
he can get in and out of 2nd gear but the noises keep him from going there.
He got home ok and said there was no problem with 1st, 3rd and 4th.  He didn't
try to engage the o/d unit for fear of causing more damage.

1.  Any suggestions on what may have happened,
2.  Are the gearbox cases similar for the TR-2-6 series of cars--or are they
all dramatically different?

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas

From bratt at sasktel.net  Mon Jul 18 20:22:06 2011
From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 20:22:06 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR Gearboxes
References: <E6C7FD24230B42A68327DE84CDF5A322@office>
Message-ID: <005301cc45ba$a863d410$6401a8c0@CHALKIESCOMPUTER>

Bill:

The big bang when it failed would suggest that a loose piece of metal tried 
to do an exit between two gears..  It is likely to be a piece from a failed 
bearing or a tooth breaken loose from a gear.

Fortunately the buckeystriumphs gearbox overhaul pages are still around.

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Gearbox/GearboxOverhaul1/GearboxOverhaul1.htm

Ed Bratt
Regina Saskatchewan

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 6:49 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR Gearboxes 

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Mon Jul 18 20:55:31 2011
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Mon, 18 Jul 2011 22:55:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR Gearboxes
In-Reply-To: <E6C7FD24230B42A68327DE84CDF5A322@office>
References: <E6C7FD24230B42A68327DE84CDF5A322@office>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0143C41946D9@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

There are a few differences between the TR-3 tranies, and the later TR-4 and
on ones.  The biggest two are that the later ones have sychros in first, and
the countershafts ride on different types of bearings.  The counter shafts are
the weakest element in these transmissions.

The complete units are interchangeable up until they used a different ODs ("A"
type versus "J" type.)  The mounting lugs were different on the later ones,
but with a bit of ingenuity, it is easy to make a good mounting adapter.  One
of the popular mods for the TR-3s was to get a TR-4 trans and put it in the
-3.

>From what the you are describing it sounds like he broke a tooth on one of the
two 2nd gears (main one and the idler gear) and as the tooth dropped, it
whacked and chipped another tooth.  The "bang" was likely the tooth letting
go.

Biggest question: how does the car drive in 1st, 3rd, and 4th?  Does the OD
still engage?  If it makes the kind of noises you describe while in those
gears, it may not be the transmission at all, but rather the differential.
Sorry for your friend's problems.

Cheers.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bill Wellbaum [wcwellbaum at cox.net]
Sent: Monday, July 18, 2011 8:49 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] TR Gearboxes

A friend with a '59 TR-3 encountered a loud bang (he said it resembled a
large
backfire) and the whole car shook while accelerating in 2nd gear.  Now, when
in second, he has loud clicking and growling sounds and when going round a
corner the gear lever rocks back and forth and the growling is worse.  He
said
he can get in and out of 2nd gear but the noises keep him from going there.
He got home ok and said there was no problem with 1st, 3rd and 4th.  He
didn't
try to engage the o/d unit for fear of causing more damage.

1.  Any suggestions on what may have happened,
2.  Are the gearbox cases similar for the TR-2-6 series of cars--or are they
all dramatically different?

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From djfidler at rogers.com  Tue Jul 19 06:23:25 2011
From: djfidler at rogers.com (David Fidler)
Date: Tue, 19 Jul 2011 08:23:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR Gearboxes
In-Reply-To: <E6C7FD24230B42A68327DE84CDF5A322@office>
References: <E6C7FD24230B42A68327DE84CDF5A322@office>
Message-ID: <B0E6B14A-0013-48FD-9A96-A0F534E7BCE1@rogers.com>

Bill,

When you find out what the problem is, I have a 1960 TR3a gearbox (in pieces),
which I cannibalized for an A-Type overdrive, it may have all the parts your
friend will need. It is in good shape and was working perfectly before the car
it was in got wrecked.

Best regards,

David.

On Jul 18, 2011, at 8:49 PM, "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net> wrote:

> A friend with a '59 TR-3 encountered a loud bang (he said it resembled a
large
> backfire) and the whole car shook while accelerating in 2nd gear.  Now,
when
> in second, he has loud clicking and growling sounds and when going round a
> corner the gear lever rocks back and forth and the growling is worse.  He
said
> he can get in and out of 2nd gear but the noises keep him from going there.
> He got home ok and said there was no problem with 1st, 3rd and 4th.  He
didn't
> try to engage the o/d unit for fear of causing more damage.
>
> 1.  Any suggestions on what may have happened,
> 2.  Are the gearbox cases similar for the TR-2-6 series of cars--or are
they
> all dramatically different?
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> Las Vegas
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

From FSZEK at aol.com  Wed Jul 20 16:44:28 2011
From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Jul 2011 18:44:28 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Engine block
Message-ID: <29a99.1eb2e856.3b58b44b@aol.com>

Hi team-
 
 Where are TR6 engine block cracks likely ? I inherited a spare ,  and want 
to assess it...
 
                                                                Cheers,
                                                                 Frank

From DJFidler at rogers.com  Fri Jul 15 15:06:40 2011
From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler)
Date: Fri, 15 Jul 2011 17:06:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ??
In-Reply-To: <2DA78D73-2693-4776-81AC-7DA33A0C7896@comcast.net>
References: <1310691845.36078.YahooMailClassic@web113604.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<CAFWFMyg5Dvz6b4UG16esK9cO1E7gh36EcG+qJmkaHyQc8oBzxA@mail.gmail.com>
	<5424F7620B064E588CD706C25B23C0CC@BobPC>
	<86133ADB-6F48-4B65-AD62-B6D051DF1AD7@comcast.net>
	<3B646B1046364EC2A4813676388EF3B8@BobPC>
	<2DA78D73-2693-4776-81AC-7DA33A0C7896@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <00ea01cc4333$18127e40$48377ac0$@com>

Hi Bud,

David Fidler here, I'm the editor of 6-PACK magazine and an avid 6-PACK
forum user.

I know you are set in your ways on this and that's fine, but I just wanted
to clarify a few things that you seem to have the wrong idea about.

When you register on the forums, you can participate in ALL of them, you
don't have to just sign up for one. They are categorized to make it simpler
to find the topics you're interested in, electrical, mechanical, club news
etc. etc. You can chose to follow any thread that interests you and you will
receive an e-mail telling your when someone posts to it.

It is a VERY friendly place to hang out, there's no coldness and no
brinksmanship or anything like that, just people who want to help, or need
help... much like the e-mail list you enjoy so much.

Joining 6-PACK is really simple, you just click on "shop & join" and follow
the links and look for the 1 or 2 year option. The problem you referred to
was fixed a long time ago and was only a problem for a short while...
Murphy's Law that you chose to try to join at that time!

Or, you can just send a cheque for $35 to Ray Suchta, 121 Lexington Drive,
Canonsburg, PA 15317 and provide your name, address and e-mail address and
tell him you want to join 6-PACK.

The member only areas of the website are there to encourage people to join,
if we don't have paying members, we can't have a website/forums etc., simple
as that. So we would LOVE to have you join the club officially and receive
all of the benefits, including a first class magazine and events.

Why not give it another try? If you're not 100% happy with your membership,
you've only spent $35 and I'm sure we can even look into reimbursing you if
it's a really that bad. I'm confident you'll enjoy it and find it great
value.

I will send you a sample copy of the magazine in a separate e-mail, so I
don't clog up this list.

Best regards,

David (Fid)

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Friday, July 15, 2011 1:17 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: John Summers; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] ??

Bob,

I have nothing against the 6pack forum but maybe I should at least  
explain my thinking.  Here's my take.

I find forums set up like the 6-pack forum to be cold.  I've tried  
other forums like that such as the Ford truck forum, and a RC plane  
forum and they all seem less personal than the email lists.   I guess  
its just my personal reaction to all the categories and sections.  I  
have no idea what category to be in or what to read or what to sign up  
for.  And I don't want to sign up for them all.  I know attachments  
and pictures are supposed to be an advantage on the forum but there's  
so many ways to convey info on the internet that isn't a huge plus for  
me.  I obviously don't get it...what the big attraction is.  I can  
understand organized, engineer type thinking people liking the forum  
but that doesn't describe me.  I'm more of a Triumph generalist I  
guess and like to read about cars other than just the 6 bangers.

My experience is that certain things on the 6-pack forum aren't  
available to a guest and I can't seem to satisfy the registration  
requirements.  It's a major pain to try over and over again only to  
have to retype everything every time so I just gave up.

Enough people are still on the 6pack and general Triumph email list  
that I always get questions answered so I guess I'll muddle along.  At  
least I have an idea of who I'm talking to on the list...whereas I  
don't recognize anyone on the 6-pack forum but I know that's a  
function of having been on the list for 14 years.  Its just easier  
knowing who the ramblers/chatters are and who the tech/knowhow people  
are and I've developed my internal calibration over the years to pick  
and choose which to read and I'll do both depending on time available  
and mood.   I'm comfortable stuck in my rut I guess.

Glad to hear the cruise control info was useful to some.  I take  
solace knowing that anything of value from the forum will show up on  
the list from the folks that do both, like you.

Regards
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 15, 2011, at 6:15 AM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Awwww Bud......... but your cruise control is alive and well in the  
> Forum ;-) It was quite an attention getter.
>
> Bob
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 11:36 PM
> To: Bob Danielson
> Cc: Irv Korey ; John Summers ; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] ??
>
> Guess I'm out of the gang then.  Dang.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On Jul 14, 2011, at 8:19 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:
>
>> Hate to say it but................. the TR6 gang is in the www.6-pack.com

>>  forum.
>>
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>> 1975 TR6 with:
>> Throttle Body Injection
>> Toyota 5 Speed
>> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Irv Korey
>> Sent: Thursday, July 14, 2011 9:40 PM
>> To: John Summers
>> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] ??
>>
>> On Thu, Jul 14, 2011 at 8:04 PM, John Summers  
>> <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>wrote:
>>
>>> Where is everybody?  Like me, can't afford a battery and   
>>> insurance,,,,
>>>
>>
>>
>> Mostly on the 6-Pack Forum I suspect.
>>
>> Irv Korey
>> 74 TR6 CF22767U
>> Highland Park, IL
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Thu Jul 21 13:21:59 2011
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 12:21:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Reconditioned Gauges Not Behaving
Message-ID: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F41151F55F3@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>

I recently had all my gauges reconditioned by West Valley.  Morris does
beautiful work and was great to work with.  I have problems with two of the
gauges (fuel and Amp meter) that I want to run by this group before I call
Morris just in case the issue has a simple solution.  I did not have these
problems before the gauges were reconditioned and re-installed.



Fuel Gauge:  When the ignition switch is on, the needle goes from empty to
just past full and stays there.  Once, the needle moved to the correct
location based on the amount of gas in the tank but stayed there only a couple
of minutes.



AMP meter:  The needle on the AMP meter sits full to the right in the
discharge area when the ignition key is off.   When the switch is turned on,
the needle moves to the middle of the gauge but rests a little to the
discharge side.



Last Sunday, I did a long drive (350 miles) with the lights on the entire time
and I didn't notice any battery/charging issues.  When the lights were turned
on the needle would twitch a little, but not move noticeably otherwise.  Turn
signals had no impact on the needle.   Can I assume my problem is in the AMP
meter?    If it's a problem with the meter, can these be taken apart and
fixed, or when they go bad do you just buy another?



When I installed the refurbished  gauges, I re-attached the wires as they had
been and I have double-checked this against my Bentley diagrams a second time.
Any thought on what may be happening here?



All feedback appreciated.



Mike

Corvallis, OR

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jul 21 14:49:51 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 16:49:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Reconditioned Gauges Not Behaving
In-Reply-To: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F41151F55F3@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>
References: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F41151F55F3@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <3A4A8269028A43EE8429BCF5C9FD1BFF@BobPC>

Hi Michael......... your questions are an excellent reason to buy Dan 
Masters' Electrical Handbook!

Per Dan:

If water temp gauge is OK and it's just the fuel gauge follow these steps. 
Those two gauges are "wired together" via the voltage stabilizer.

Fuel Gauge - If it is pegged on high ONLY when the key is on, you have a 
short to ground somewhere. Go to the fuel sender and remove the wire to the 
gauge. If the gauge reads zero the fuel sender is faulty. If not, reattach 
the wire at the fuel sender and go to the gauge and remove the wire from the 
fuel sender. If it returns to normal, there is a short in the wire from the 
sender. If it doesn't , the short is in the gauge itself.

Ammeter: This gauge is Polarity sensitive. Looking at the back of the gauge 
with hole for the light at the bottom, the hook ups are: Top right tab = 
Brown wire, Top Left Tab = Large Brown/White wire and Bottom Left Tab = 
small Brown/White wire.

Hope that helps.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 3:21 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Reconditioned Gauges Not Behaving

I recently had all my gauges reconditioned by West Valley.  Morris does
beautiful work and was great to work with.  I have problems with two of the
gauges (fuel and Amp meter) that I want to run by this group before I call
Morris just in case the issue has a simple solution.  I did not have these
problems before the gauges were reconditioned and re-installed.



Fuel Gauge:  When the ignition switch is on, the needle goes from empty to
just past full and stays there.  Once, the needle moved to the correct
location based on the amount of gas in the tank but stayed there only a 
couple
of minutes.



AMP meter:  The needle on the AMP meter sits full to the right in the
discharge area when the ignition key is off.   When the switch is turned on,
the needle moves to the middle of the gauge but rests a little to the
discharge side.



Last Sunday, I did a long drive (350 miles) with the lights on the entire 
time
and I didn't notice any battery/charging issues.  When the lights were 
turned
on the needle would twitch a little, but not move noticeably otherwise. 
Turn
signals had no impact on the needle.   Can I assume my problem is in the AMP
meter?    If it's a problem with the meter, can these be taken apart and
fixed, or when they go bad do you just buy another?



When I installed the refurbished  gauges, I re-attached the wires as they 
had
been and I have double-checked this against my Bentley diagrams a second 
time.
Any thought on what may be happening here?



All feedback appreciated.



Mike

Corvallis, OR________________________________________ 

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Jul 21 15:31:54 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 21 Jul 2011 15:31:54 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Radiator and Gas Tank tech session
Message-ID: <8E1BB346-3C90-4DE3-9BD8-B70E237C53DD@comcast.net>

For those attending VTR2011 in Breckenridge this year you might want  
to attend one of the Friday tech sessions that will be put on by Carl  
Spike of Spike Radiators here in Denver.

Carl came to a RMTC chapter meeting and gave a talk and we just about  
didn't let him go home because we had so many questions.  Fortunately  
he has lots of answers.

He does a lot of vintage radiators and gas tanks and knows everything  
from the chemistry of anti-freezes and additives (get the scoop on  
water wetter) that are marketed to the number of rows and fin counts  
to use.  His sessions are 9:30-11:00 and 2:00-3:30 on Friday August  
19th.  You can park your car for the car show that day and then attend  
one of Carl's sessions.  You will walk away smarter, I can almost  
guarantee it.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Fri Jul 22 08:33:07 2011
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 07:33:07 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Fw: TR3 Transmission
Message-ID: <FFF05747C89142FA901F254CA728B4A4@office>

Any comments on the question below.  We need some expert advice.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonas Payne
To: Bill Wellbaum ; Bill Wellbaum ; billwellbaum at lvcfs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 7:47 PM
Subject: TR3 Transmission


Bill,



To bend your ear a bit







Here's what my thought was, but I don't think it will work.



I have a fully rebuilt TR4 transmission sitting on the floor of my garage.  -
non overdrive.    It is fully synchronized and works beautifully.



I have a broken 1959 overdrive TR3 transmission in the car.



In a perfect world, I'd remove the broken unit, separate the OD, remove the
tailpiece from the good gearbox, bolt the OD to it and reinstall - about 6
hours worth of work and back in business.



As near as I can tell the OD units for all TR3/4s were "Type A" and identical.



Unfortunately, it would appear that the mainshaft for OD transmissions were
not the same as OD transmissions on  TR3 transmissions.  I have no idea
whether or not this was the case for the fully synchronized TR4 unit I have.



Thus the question to post to the TR Web if you would for me.



Can I bolt an OD from a TR3 up to  a TR4 non OD transmission?  If not, what
would be required to do so.



My research is telling me that I need to get a longer mainshaft for an OD TR4
and install it in my rebuilt TR4 trans, which is equally as much work as what
will likely be required with the existing broken trans.



Other minor benefits to my rebuilt trans are:



                Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing - ready to go.

                MGB pressure plate for aforementioned bearing

                TR4 clutch disc - much better than TR3 unit.



Question is  - can this be done?



Then we get to the ethical dilemma  - am I buggering up a numbers matching car
to gain synchro in 1-2?







Jonas Payne

Director of Preconstruction

Thor Construction

PH:    (702) 269-2007

Fax:   (702) 269-7095

Cell:   (702) 358-5084

From DJFidler at rogers.com  Fri Jul 22 09:07:25 2011
From: DJFidler at rogers.com (David Fidler)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 11:07:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fw: TR3 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <FFF05747C89142FA901F254CA728B4A4@office>
References: <FFF05747C89142FA901F254CA728B4A4@office>
Message-ID: <010d01cc4881$1119db30$334d9190$@com>

Bill and Jonas,

You do need to replace your mainshaft with the OD TR4 version (I think it's
actually shorter not longer?), so essentially you're in for another gearbox
rebuild.

The A-Type OD units are mechanically the same, but they do have different
output ratios. On a TR6 it's 22%, you can also get units that are 20 & 24%,
you can tell by the first 2 digits in the serial #. Not sure what it should
be for a TR3, but my unit came off a TR3 and it's 22%, so it's correct for
the TR6.

As far as the ethical question, what judge is going to look inside a
gearbox? ;-)

David.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 10:33 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Fw: TR3 Transmission

Any comments on the question below.  We need some expert advice.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonas Payne
To: Bill Wellbaum ; Bill Wellbaum ; billwellbaum at lvcfs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 7:47 PM
Subject: TR3 Transmission


Bill,



To bend your ear a bit







Here's what my thought was, but I don't think it will work.



I have a fully rebuilt TR4 transmission sitting on the floor of my garage.
-
non overdrive.    It is fully synchronized and works beautifully.



I have a broken 1959 overdrive TR3 transmission in the car.



In a perfect world, I'd remove the broken unit, separate the OD, remove the
tailpiece from the good gearbox, bolt the OD to it and reinstall - about 6
hours worth of work and back in business.



As near as I can tell the OD units for all TR3/4s were "Type A" and
identical.



Unfortunately, it would appear that the mainshaft for OD transmissions were
not the same as OD transmissions on  TR3 transmissions.  I have no idea
whether or not this was the case for the fully synchronized TR4 unit I have.



Thus the question to post to the TR Web if you would for me.



Can I bolt an OD from a TR3 up to  a TR4 non OD transmission?  If not, what
would be required to do so.



My research is telling me that I need to get a longer mainshaft for an OD
TR4
and install it in my rebuilt TR4 trans, which is equally as much work as
what
will likely be required with the existing broken trans.



Other minor benefits to my rebuilt trans are:



                Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing - ready to go.

                MGB pressure plate for aforementioned bearing

                TR4 clutch disc - much better than TR3 unit.



Question is  - can this be done?



Then we get to the ethical dilemma  - am I buggering up a numbers matching
car
to gain synchro in 1-2?







Jonas Payne

Director of Preconstruction

Thor Construction

PH:    (702) 269-2007

Fax:   (702) 269-7095

Cell:   (702) 358-5084

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Fri Jul 22 10:04:47 2011
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 12:04:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fw: TR3 Transmission
In-Reply-To: <010d01cc4881$1119db30$334d9190$@com>
References: <FFF05747C89142FA901F254CA728B4A4@office>,
	<010d01cc4881$1119db30$334d9190$@com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0143C61FE1B1@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

The difference in the overdrive transmissions was from the "A" type OD to the
"J" type.  The "J" type required a mainshaft in the trans to have a 12 groove
extension pattern while the older ones used a 6 groove extension.  The early
TR-4 used the older type, same as in the -3.  I'm not sure when the change
over to the newer style OD occurred.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
David Fidler [DJFidler at rogers.com]
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 11:07 AM
To: 'Bill Wellbaum'; '6pack'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Fw: TR3 Transmission

Bill and Jonas,

You do need to replace your mainshaft with the OD TR4 version (I think it's
actually shorter not longer?), so essentially you're in for another gearbox
rebuild.

The A-Type OD units are mechanically the same, but they do have different
output ratios. On a TR6 it's 22%, you can also get units that are 20 & 24%,
you can tell by the first 2 digits in the serial #. Not sure what it should
be for a TR3, but my unit came off a TR3 and it's 22%, so it's correct for
the TR6.

As far as the ethical question, what judge is going to look inside a
gearbox? ;-)

David.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum
Sent: Friday, July 22, 2011 10:33 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Fw: TR3 Transmission

Any comments on the question below.  We need some expert advice.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas
----- Original Message -----
From: Jonas Payne
To: Bill Wellbaum ; Bill Wellbaum ; billwellbaum at lvcfs.com
Sent: Thursday, July 21, 2011 7:47 PM
Subject: TR3 Transmission


Bill,



To bend your ear a bit







Here's what my thought was, but I don't think it will work.



I have a fully rebuilt TR4 transmission sitting on the floor of my garage.
-
non overdrive.    It is fully synchronized and works beautifully.



I have a broken 1959 overdrive TR3 transmission in the car.



In a perfect world, I'd remove the broken unit, separate the OD, remove the
tailpiece from the good gearbox, bolt the OD to it and reinstall - about 6
hours worth of work and back in business.



As near as I can tell the OD units for all TR3/4s were "Type A" and
identical.



Unfortunately, it would appear that the mainshaft for OD transmissions were
not the same as OD transmissions on  TR3 transmissions.  I have no idea
whether or not this was the case for the fully synchronized TR4 unit I have.



Thus the question to post to the TR Web if you would for me.



Can I bolt an OD from a TR3 up to  a TR4 non OD transmission?  If not, what
would be required to do so.



My research is telling me that I need to get a longer mainshaft for an OD
TR4
and install it in my rebuilt TR4 trans, which is equally as much work as
what
will likely be required with the existing broken trans.



Other minor benefits to my rebuilt trans are:



                Tilton hydraulic throwout bearing - ready to go.

                MGB pressure plate for aforementioned bearing

                TR4 clutch disc - much better than TR3 unit.



Question is  - can this be done?



Then we get to the ethical dilemma  - am I buggering up a numbers matching
car
to gain synchro in 1-2?







Jonas Payne

Director of Preconstruction

Thor Construction

PH:    (702) 269-2007

Fax:   (702) 269-7095

Cell:   (702) 358-5084

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/djfidler at rogers.com

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Jul 22 19:10:53 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Jul 2011 21:10:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] PVGP    RATCO has two frames there.
Message-ID: <8CE16EC8083F763-1948-6DF6@Webmail-m107.sysops.aol.com>

PITTSBURG VINTAGE GRAND PRIX   this weekend.

If you are going to be at PVGP, stop in RATCOs BOOTH and check out the brand
new TR6 frames.

Tony also has also has his new tube shock coversion kit for the TR4, there.

We installed this kit for a race in June with great results. It is a
conversion kit that will not tear your frame as it has lateral support with
the mounts.

Tony Vigliotti will also be a featured speaker at the VTR Convention at
Breckenridge in August.

Joe A

From TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com  Sat Jul 23 09:40:49 2011
From: TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com (TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 11:40:49 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Shock Conversion
Message-ID: <2357d.1d28776c.3b5c4581@aol.com>

My next project will be rebuilding the rear suspension on my 1971  TR6.  
I've red that converting  to tube shocks can cause tire  clearance  problems.  
I have Panasport 16" wheels fitted with 215  R55-16 Kumho tires. I'd be 
interested in any advise from those with simular  setups.
Thanks Doug

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Sat Jul 23 12:18:15 2011
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Sat, 23 Jul 2011 14:18:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Shock Conversion
In-Reply-To: <2357d.1d28776c.3b5c4581@aol.com>
References: <2357d.1d28776c.3b5c4581@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2C63DECB-5084-4ACD-827D-C720E31D459A@optonline.net>

I have 15x7" panasports with Yokohama 215-65 , no problem. I would consider making an additional brace to support the bracket. I have the conversion on my car for 10 years without any problem but others have had weld and mount failures. I would probably blame the failures on the inconsistent quality of welds and metallurgy on these cars. I recently made a brace simply because it's cheap insurance. 



Mitch Seff


On Jul 23, 2011, at 11:40 AM, TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com wrote:

> My next project will be rebuilding the rear suspension on my 1971  TR6.  
> I've red that converting  to tube shocks can cause tire  clearance  problems.  
> I have Panasport 16" wheels fitted with 215  R55-16 Kumho tires. I'd be 
> interested in any advise from those with simular  setups.
> Thanks Doug
> 
> ________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net
> 

Mitch Seff

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Jul 25 13:42:29 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 25 Jul 2011 13:42:29 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Shock Conversion
In-Reply-To: <2357d.1d28776c.3b5c4581@aol.com>
References: <2357d.1d28776c.3b5c4581@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BB5C1263-B127-47EC-BADB-23FA8785ACAD@comcast.net>

I run a similar wheel/tire setup.  No problems on that front.

But make sure your rubber stops on the trailing arms are adjusted so  
they do their job BEFORE the shock bottoms out.  Test the stops once  
the conversion is completely on by using a jack to raise the trailing  
arm until the rubber stops compress.  If your shocks bottom out before  
this happens then the brackets may rip from the frame and take a few  
pieces with it.  Ask me how I know.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jul 23, 2011, at 9:40 AM, TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com wrote:

> My next project will be rebuilding the rear suspension on my 1971   
> TR6.
> I've red that converting  to tube shocks can cause tire  clearance   
> problems.
> I have Panasport 16" wheels fitted with 215  R55-16 Kumho tires. I'd  
> be
> interested in any advise from those with simular  setups.
> Thanks Doug
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Jul 26 13:33:55 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 26 Jul 2011 13:33:55 -0600
Subject: [6pack] VTR2011 Volunteers?
Message-ID: <EF1CD4FE-A6F3-4F9E-BB4C-8E412AB1439A@comcast.net>

List,

We seem to have fewer volunteers for helping with VTR this year.  The  
Rocky Mountain Triumph Club has a core team of really hardworking  
people organizing and working the events but we'd like them to be able  
to participate in VTR events as well as work the convention.

If you're attending would you be interested in helping out for an  
event for an hour or two?  Please email me off line and I'll send you  
an excel spreadsheet to look at, fill in a spot or two, and send back  
to me.  First to volunteer get the best choices.

For those of you attending and/or signed up for the autocross we would  
like "corner captains" for the work stations on the course.  There  
will be 2-3 people at each work station and you'd be the person with  
the radio and fire extinguisher, and the point of contact for  
autocross officials.  Let me know if you can help.

The RMTC is looking forward to putting on VTR this year in a beautiful  
area (Breckenridge) and I'm looking forward to seeing all my VTR  
friends.

Thanks to Irv Korey and Mike Bilyk of ISOA who have volunteered to  
help already.

Thanks for any help you can provide.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 27 11:09:17 2011
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 10:09:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1311786557.56409.YahooMailMobile@web39306.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://securitiesdocket.com/google.php

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 27 11:10:31 2011
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 10:10:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1311786631.85431.YahooMailMobile@web39321.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://02bb06d.netsolhost.com/google.php

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 27 13:01:52 2011
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 12:01:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1311793312.49709.YahooMailMobile@web39324.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://bbraffaello.com/google.php

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Wed Jul 27 13:02:03 2011
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Jul 2011 12:02:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <1311793323.84032.YahooMailMobile@web39322.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://mikehoryn.com/google.php

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Jul 28 10:26:47 2011
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 28 Jul 2011 12:26:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party & FT decals
Message-ID: <BLU160-w49F6359847143787538134BA340@phx.gbl>

I will be bringing the left over Fred Thomas memorial stickers and decals to
the upcoming TRF Summer Party.  I will have the Green TR8 there, don't know
about the Vintage Race Spitfire.  Will probably have the canopy set up near
the autox finish line as usual or you can call me on my cell their at
440-225-0209 if you want to purchase one. $1.00 each is the cost.

Marty Sukey

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Sat Jul 30 11:42:28 2011
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 10:42:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] lubrication for tr6 speedo & tach cables
Message-ID: <1312047748.10828.YahooMailNeo@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

New speedo and tach cables while replacing dash.    I separated inner and
outer and sprayed inner cables  with "Cable Life" by Protectall.
 
Product is
designed for control cables on snowmobiles, motorcycles, watercraft, bikes
etc., so it works in harsh environments. Should I use something heavier on TR6
cables, as with luck, I won't be in there again for many years.   Manual ssays
to use light coating of grease.   My tach bounced around in cooler Canadian
weather we get in fall.   Speedo also bounced.   First time I've done anything
with cables in 12 years of ownership.
 
Thank you, Bruce Simms

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Jul 30 13:11:40 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 30 Jul 2011 15:11:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] lubrication for tr6 speedo & tach cables
In-Reply-To: <1312047748.10828.YahooMailNeo@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <1312047748.10828.YahooMailNeo@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <FEDA2DC080DF48B6A3ED88F2EED7F99A@BobPC>

Can't help you on the proper lube but even though you have new cables, 
double check the tip to make sure it's within spec. My new cables were well 
out of spec.  I got the specs from Morris at West Valley Instruments and 
they're posted toward the bottom of this page

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm

An out of spec cable can, at best, cause erratic readings and, at worse, 
damage the gauge internals.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bruce Simms
Sent: Saturday, July 30, 2011 1:42 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] lubrication for tr6 speedo & tach cables

New speedo and tach cables while replacing dash.    I separated inner and
outer and sprayed inner cables  with "Cable Life" by Protectall.

Product is
designed for control cables on snowmobiles, motorcycles, watercraft, bikes
etc., so it works in harsh environments. Should I use something heavier on 
TR6
cables, as with luck, I won't be in there again for many years.   Manual 
ssays
to use light coating of grease.   My tach bounced around in cooler Canadian
weather we get in fall.   Speedo also bounced.   First time I've done 
anything
with cables in 12 years of ownership.

Thank you, Bruce Simms

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jul 31 15:40:04 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 17:40:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Is this Mail List Request Legit?
Message-ID: <78D86A761E0747A1AE851D5F7201E37A@BobPC>

I just got 2 emails saying that I had requested to be removed from the
6-Pack Mail List and 1 email about a password reminder. I know Mark sends
out a reminder that we're subscribed to the Lists but I've never seen these
2 requests. Seeing as I've made neither request.........are these legit?

Message 1
"We have received a request from 173.149.85.43 for the removal of your
email address, "75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org" from the
6pack at autox.team.net mailing list.  To confirm that you want to be
removed from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping
the Subject: header intact.  Or visit this web page:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/6pack/c29bdf8dd879a87d041b9b0da7e87612383350d2"

Message 2

"You, or someone posing as you, has requested a password reminder for
your membership on the mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net.  You will
need this password in order to change your membership options (e.g. do
you want regular delivery or digest delivery), and having this
password makes it easier for you to unsubscribe from the mailing list."


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs 

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Sun Jul 31 16:07:14 2011
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 18:07:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Is this Mail List Request Legit?
In-Reply-To: <78D86A761E0747A1AE851D5F7201E37A@BobPC>
References: <78D86A761E0747A1AE851D5F7201E37A@BobPC>
Message-ID: <BAY165-W31C561146CDEE0CB75A345C6390@phx.gbl>

Bob, Right click on the link and look at the properties.It's phishing - it's
pointing to a microsoft live (hotmail) email address.
Ignore it.  > From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2011 17:40:04 -0400
> Subject: [6pack] Is this Mail List Request Legit?
>
> I just got 2 emails saying that I had requested to be removed from the
> 6-Pack Mail List and 1 email about a password reminder. I know Mark sends
> out a reminder that we're subscribed to the Lists but I've never seen these
> 2 requests. Seeing as I've made neither request.........are these legit?
>
> Message 1
> "We have received a request from 173.149.85.43 for the removal of your
> email address, "75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org" from the
> 6pack at autox.team.net mailing list.  To confirm that you want to be
> removed from this mailing list, simply reply to this message, keeping
> the Subject: header intact.  Or visit this web page:
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/6pack/c29bdf8dd879a87d041b9b0da7e876123
83350d2"
>
> Message 2
>
> "You, or someone posing as you, has requested a password reminder for
> your membership on the mailing list 6pack at autox.team.net.  You will
> need this password in order to change your membership options (e.g. do
> you want regular delivery or digest delivery), and having this
> password makes it easier for you to unsubscribe from the mailing list."
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alanatkinson at hotmail.com