From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Jan  1 21:32:01 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sat, 1 Jan 2011 21:32:01 -0700
Subject: [6pack] lug nuts
In-Reply-To: <4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>
	<F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local>
	<4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>

NAPA #735-2552 Chrome Lug Nuts 7/16" R Short Mag

Try those.  The set of four lug nuts to a blister pack includes 4
washers.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Dec 18, 2010, at 10:16 PM, Dave wrote:

> o;?hi, all.
>
> Ibm thinking of replacing the chrome lug nuts (72 TR6 b stock
> wheels)
> with something a little less fragile.  does anyone know the info I
> would need
> to order (size, thread, etc), and does anyone have a
> recommendation?  I was
> referred to http://www.ezaccessory.com/Default.asp by someone.
> Ibll try
> them on Monday unless there is a better place.
>
> thanks!
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Sun Jan  2 17:48:52 2011
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Sun, 2 Jan 2011 16:48:52 -0800
Subject: [6pack] lug nuts
In-Reply-To: <CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>
	<F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local>
	<4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>
	<CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>

	Bud:

	I don't believe those are a good replacement. They need to be
specified as conical, since our wheels are steel rather than aluminum and
rely on a conical tip to center the wheel on the stud correctly. A better
choice would be
http://www.ezaccessory.com/Bullet_Mag_Lug_Nut_7_16_p/8232.htm at the site
mentioned below.

	Although not the original style, they have the correct conical tip
to work with our steel wheels. A non-conical nut will not be safe.

	If you are willing to toss the center trim piece, then conventional
chromed acorn nuts with conical tips will work.

	If you want to retain the center trim piece with the TR6 logo, you
will need to go with a shanked nut, conical tip, 7/16" x 20 threads. Mag
wheel nuts are almost always non-conical and therefore not safe for use with
steel wheels. The only mag style nut that is conical (at least that I am
aware of) are the so called "bullet mag" nuts.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2011 8:32 PM
To: Dave
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] lug nuts

NAPA #735-2552 Chrome Lug Nuts 7/16" R Short Mag

Try those.  The set of four lug nuts to a blister pack includes 4
washers.


Bud Rolofson

<snip>


On Dec 18, 2010, at 10:16 PM, Dave wrote:

> hi, all.
>
> I'm thinking of replacing the chrome lug nuts (72 TR6 b stock wheels)
> with something a little less fragile.  does anyone know the info I
> would need to order (size, thread, etc), and does anyone have a
> recommendation?  I was referred to
> http://www.ezaccessory.com/Default.asp by someone. I'll try
> them on Monday unless there is a better place.
>
> thanks!

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun Jan  2 19:30:34 2011
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 02 Jan 2011 19:30:34 -0700
Subject: [6pack] lug nuts
In-Reply-To: <001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>
	<F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local>
	<4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>
	<CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>
	<001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4D2134CA.1050109@dfn.com>

On 1/2/2011 5:48 PM, Vance Navarrette wrote:
> 	Bud:
>
> 	I don't believe those are a good replacement. They need to be
> specified as conical, since our wheels are steel rather than aluminum and
> rely on a conical tip to center the wheel on the stud correctly. A better
> choice would be
> http://www.ezaccessory.com/Bullet_Mag_Lug_Nut_7_16_p/8232.htm at the site
> mentioned below.
>
> 	Although not the original style, they have the correct conical tip
> to work with our steel wheels. A non-conical nut will not be safe.
>
> 	If you are willing to toss the center trim piece, then conventional
> chromed acorn nuts with conical tips will work.
>
> 	If you want to retain the center trim piece with the TR6 logo, you
> will need to go with a shanked nut, conical tip, 7/16" x 20 threads. Mag
> wheel nuts are almost always non-conical and therefore not safe for use with
> steel wheels. The only mag style nut that is conical (at least that I am
> aware of) are the so called "bullet mag" nuts.
>
> 	Vance
>


Umm, this might need a bit of clarification, since the essential 
differences are not steel v. aluminum, but rather are ones of hub type 
and the necessary included angle of the lug nut.  First, there are only 
two types of wheels when it comes to mounting:  hub-mounted and 
stud-mounted.  Hub-mounted wheels depend upon a precision-machined 
center to locate the wheel concentrically on the hub.  Hub-mounted 
wheels, therefore, can use a standard nut and washer to retain the 
wheel.  Stud-mounted wheels use the stud and nut to locate the wheel on 
the hub and the wheel center does not have to be perfectly matched to 
the hub center.  To my knowledge, all Triumphs have stud-mounted wheels 
(even those with wire wheels and knockoffs use the stud nut to locate 
the wire wheel adapter), and in the passenger auto trade, hub-mounted 
wheels are relatively rare (this is not the case in the heavy-duty 
automotive sector, where hub-mounted wheels are generally favored, and 
stud-mounted are rarer).


So, for stud-mounted wheels, whether steel or aluminum, the stud nut 
must match the angle of the stud nut boss in the wheel to the proper 
interference fit.  Some aluminum wheels have a narrower included angle 
(a deeper cone, if you will) than the standard steel wheel--to provide 
increased surface area for the nut to grip--and require a special lug 
nut with a taper to match.  But, it doesn't matter if the wheel is steel 
or aluminum--standard-shaped hex nuts and washers are for use on 
hub-mounted wheels, while tapered lug nuts are for use on stud-mounted 
wheels.  Both mounting styles are available in various materials, so the 
lug nut chosen depends not on the material, but how the wheel is located 
on the hub.


Cheers.


-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Jan  3 00:39:32 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 00:39:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] lug nuts
In-Reply-To: <001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>
	<F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local>
	<4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>
	<CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>
	<001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <583834C6-CAB6-4966-8716-4409DF183E0B@comcast.net>

Thanks for the correction.  Guess its been awhile since I ran stock
wheels so I forgot the original lug nuts were conical lug nuts.  I had
the lug nuts I mentioned laying around waiting for me to use for my
ARE mags....I think.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Jan 2, 2011, at 5:48 PM, Vance Navarrette wrote:

> 	Bud:
>
> 	I don't believe those are a good replacement. They need to be
> specified as conical, since our wheels are steel rather than
> aluminum and
> rely on a conical tip to center the wheel on the stud correctly. A
> better
> choice would be
> http://www.ezaccessory.com/Bullet_Mag_Lug_Nut_7_16_p/8232.htm at the
> site
> mentioned below.
>
> 	Although not the original style, they have the correct conical tip
> to work with our steel wheels. A non-conical nut will not be safe.
>
> 	If you are willing to toss the center trim piece, then conventional
> chromed acorn nuts with conical tips will work.
>
> 	If you want to retain the center trim piece with the TR6 logo, you
> will need to go with a shanked nut, conical tip, 7/16" x 20 threads.
> Mag
> wheel nuts are almost always non-conical and therefore not safe for
> use with
> steel wheels. The only mag style nut that is conical (at least that
> I am
> aware of) are the so called "bullet mag" nuts.
>
> 	Vance
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
> ] On
> Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
> Sent: Saturday, January 01, 2011 8:32 PM
> To: Dave
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] lug nuts
>
> NAPA #735-2552 Chrome Lug Nuts 7/16" R Short Mag
>
> Try those.  The set of four lug nuts to a blister pack includes 4
> washers.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> <snip>
>
>
> On Dec 18, 2010, at 10:16 PM, Dave wrote:
>
>> hi, all.
>>
>> I'm thinking of replacing the chrome lug nuts (72 TR6 b stock
>> wheels)
>> with something a little less fragile.  does anyone know the info I
>> would need to order (size, thread, etc), and does anyone have a
>> recommendation?  I was referred to
>> http://www.ezaccessory.com/Default.asp by someone. I'll try
>> them on Monday unless there is a better place.
>>
>> thanks!

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Mon Jan  3 07:12:02 2011
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 08:12:02 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Fluid
Message-ID: <92CD6D0A8C5C4BFFBBE12AD5AC73F282@Dell320>

I was out driving my 74 TR6 over the weekend.
When I returned I noticed fluid all over my left boot.
It was clutch fluid so something is failing. Any ideas?

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jan  3 07:26:53 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 09:26:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Fluid
In-Reply-To: <92CD6D0A8C5C4BFFBBE12AD5AC73F282@Dell320>
References: <92CD6D0A8C5C4BFFBBE12AD5AC73F282@Dell320>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1101030926140.15927@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 3 Jan 2011, Stuart Thompson wrote:

> I was out driving my 74 TR6 over the weekend.
> When I returned I noticed fluid all over my left boot.
> It was clutch fluid so something is failing. Any ideas?

Then answer is self-evident.

Rebuild your clutch master.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Mon Jan  3 07:37:05 2011
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 08:37:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Fluid
References: <92CD6D0A8C5C4BFFBBE12AD5AC73F282@Dell320>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1101030926140.15927@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <DE0F596286A14175AC9D132356DB4D8B@Dell320>

Simple enough. That's why I like these cars and this list!


----- Original Message ----- 



>
> Then answer is self-evident.
>
> Rebuild your clutch master.
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> 2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Mon Jan  3 16:04:12 2011
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Mon, 3 Jan 2011 23:04:12 +0000
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
Message-ID: <BAY150-w436421B2384C10FCC737B79F070@phx.gbl>

So my wife got a 2005 BMW Z4 as kind of a retirement thing.  She had admired
the cars for many years and as a compromise for another car that was fun, but
one we really didn't need, it worked.   Now that I've had some time to drive
and acclimate to the car I'd like to share some observations about modern
sports cars vs our old Triumphs, in my case a '72 TR6, with the list.
Comfort and cockpit room:  the Z4 has more comfortable seats than the Triumph,
but the Triumph has more room for coats small packages etc. If you want to
take off your jacket in the Z4 You need to put it into the trunk.Noise Levels:
In the Triumph I can't hear the radio over the engine / road noise past 55MPH,
in the Z4 I can't hear the engine over the radio. The Z4 rev limiter has saved
that engine more than once in the last couple of months...Top:  Putting the
top down on the TR6 takes about 5 minutes, putting the top up, especially if
it is cold can take the better part of 15 minutes.  The Z4 takes the press of
a button and about 60 seconds no matter what the temperature. Handling: My TR6
suspension is all rebuilt as factory.  Handles well on the street.  The Z4 is
wide stiff and has wide low profile tires and seems glued to the road in
turns.Safety:  The Z4 has four air bags, an integral roll, bar and crumple
zones.  TR6, God on your side and a lot of luck...Shifting:  the Z4 is a
little smoother and the throw is shorter, but honestly the TR6 compares
well.Do it yourself repairs: Everything on the Z4 needs special tools except
the brakes as far as I can tell, and a number of features, if you want them
active, need to be programed to work by the BMW proprietary computer tool.
TR6-basic tool kit for most things, the list, and a couple of work-arounds.  A
lot of the fun I get from my TR6 is turning my own wrench.Driving fun:  The
TR6 has it all over the Z4.  The Z4 is smooth, refined, sophisticated and, in
my opinion, a bit boring.  The TR6 sounds, acts and handles like I expect a
sports car should.  You never will mistake a ride in a Triumph with a modern
sports car.  Fun quotient: BMW Z4 good, TR6-over the top, in my estimation,
way more fun.Just my opinion...Bob Rochlin'72 TR6'05 Z4

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Jan  4 06:43:40 2011
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 13:43:40 +0000
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w436421B2384C10FCC737B79F070@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY150-w436421B2384C10FCC737B79F070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W421BCE298EE2F2BB1B6F88E080@phx.gbl>

Bob,
Very nice comparison. The only suggestion I'd make for you is to put an amp on
that radio. I love the original exhaust note, but there's nothing like
actually being able to hear the radio with the top down at 65-mph.

Sloane :)
69-Six

<snip>
> So my wife got a 2005 BMW Z4 as kind of a retirement thing.

From jimhurle at gmail.com  Tue Jan  4 12:40:31 2011
From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 14:40:31 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 5, Issue 3
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1294167602.30314.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1294167602.30314.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim2gteZLJQDtw6_GHPirLu=r8xXUgcAktiYy37h@mail.gmail.com>

Re: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6

On Tue, Jan 4, 2011 at 2:00 PM, <6pack-request at autox.team.net> wrote:

>
> Bob,
> Very nice comparison. The only suggestion I'd make for you is to put an amp
> on
> that radio. I love the original exhaust note, but there's nothing like
> actually being able to hear the radio with the top down at 65-mph.
>
> Sloane :)
> 69-Six
>
>
Please don't do this. Making your radio louder so that you can hear it over
the exhaust note means that in the future you will need three amps, one
external in the TR6 trunk, and the others in your ears. They are called
"hearing aids" I think.

Just my $0.02., but my hearing loss is probably from a lot of loud noise
earlier in my life.

Jim Hurley

From JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com  Tue Jan  4 13:18:24 2011
From: JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com (Dombey, John R.)
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 12:18:24 -0800
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
Message-ID: <B27788FF2B36BA4CAE1F896B2FEA4F9F05E8F57F@0461-its-exmb03.us.saic.com>

Bob,

I'll echo Sloane's praise for your comparison - I can't disagree with
any of it.  My wife has a 2003 Z4, and I drive a '69 TR6 daily, so I get
plenty of stick time in each.  The one thing you didn't mention that
stands out to me is the smoothness and power of the Z4 engine.  I'd love
to have that on tap in the TR6 (but I'd for sure have to do something
about the exhaust note...).  Oh, and the heated seats feel really good
too.

A number of years ago we took a lap of the country in the TR, and found
that you really can't carry on a conversation at speed with the top down
mostly due to wind noise and buffeting.  You can in the Z4, which is a
plus in the marital bliss department.

John
'69 TR6

<snip>
> So my wife got a 2005 BMW Z4 as kind of a retirement thing.

From jay_welch at juno.com  Wed Jan  5 05:36:20 2011
From: jay_welch at juno.com (Jay Welch)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 12:36:20 GMT
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
Message-ID: <20110105.073620.322.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>

Hi,

That was a good comparison of the two Bob.

Can anyone on the list compare their TR6 experiences with the BMW Z3 model or
a recent model Mazda MX5?

My understanding is that the Z3 was a hodgepodge of parts from previous or
existing models thrown together to make a roadster without a lot of thought
put into the design of the suspension while the Z4 was designed from the
ground up.

Thanks,
Jay in MA
Member CCBCC

---------- Original Message ----------
From: "Dombey, John R." <JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 12:18:24 -0800

Bob,

I'll echo Sloane's praise for your comparison - I can't disagree with
any of it.  My wife has a 2003 Z4, and I drive a '69 TR6 daily, so I get
plenty of stick time in each.  The one thing you didn't mention that
stands out to me is the smoothness and power of the Z4 engine.  I'd love
to have that on tap in the TR6 (but I'd for sure have to do something
about the exhaust note...).  Oh, and the heated seats feel really good
too.

A number of years ago we took a lap of the country in the TR, and found
that you really can't carry on a conversation at speed with the top down
mostly due to wind noise and buffeting.  You can in the Z4, which is a
plus in the marital bliss department.

John
'69 TR6

<snip>
> So my wife got a 2005 BMW Z4 as kind of a retirement thing.
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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____________________________________________________________
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$1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam.
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4d2465eea51cda1c502st03vuc

From j.honor at comcast.net  Wed Jan  5 07:48:09 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 08:48:09 -0600
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
In-Reply-To: <20110105.073620.322.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110105.073620.322.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <8628CC91-8369-4269-BC0F-CB1DD0602ED8@comcast.net>

I had a '98 Z3 4cyl 1.8L w/5spd a d have '74 TR6 with lightened flywheel new
clutch and rebuilt engine & suspension I recall the z3 as a responsive and
easily tossed about simple roadster though more refined than my TR read
quieter other characteristics were similar with the fun of a simple ragtop
love to have the chance of a side to side comparison as I had sold my bimmer
several years before purchasing my TR Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Jan 5, 2011, at 12:36 PM, "Jay Welch" <jay_welch at juno.com> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> That was a good comparison of the two Bob.
>
> Can anyone on the list compare their TR6 experiences with the BMW Z3 model
or
> a recent model Mazda MX5?
>
> My understanding is that the Z3 was a hodgepodge of parts from previous or
> existing models thrown together to make a roadster without a lot of thought
> put into the design of the suspension while the Z4 was designed from the
> ground up.
>
> Thanks,
> Jay in MA
> Member CCBCC
>
> ---------- Original Message ----------
> From: "Dombey, John R." <JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
> Date: Tue, 4 Jan 2011 12:18:24 -0800
>
> Bob,
>
> I'll echo Sloane's praise for your comparison - I can't disagree with
> any of it.  My wife has a 2003 Z4, and I drive a '69 TR6 daily, so I get
> plenty of stick time in each.  The one thing you didn't mention that
> stands out to me is the smoothness and power of the Z4 engine.  I'd love
> to have that on tap in the TR6 (but I'd for sure have to do something
> about the exhaust note...).  Oh, and the heated seats feel really good
> too.
>
> A number of years ago we took a lap of the country in the TR, and found
> that you really can't carry on a conversation at speed with the top down
> mostly due to wind noise and buffeting.  You can in the Z4, which is a
> plus in the marital bliss department.
>
> John
> '69 TR6
>
> <snip>
>> So my wife got a 2005 BMW Z4 as kind of a retirement thing.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jay_welch at juno.com
>
>
> ____________________________________________________________
> Globe Life Insurance
> $1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam.
> http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4d2465eea51cda1c502st03vuc
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net

From dimikouts at sympatico.ca  Wed Jan  5 08:09:20 2011
From: dimikouts at sympatico.ca (dimi k)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 10:09:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w436421B2384C10FCC737B79F070@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY150-w436421B2384C10FCC737B79F070@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU0-SMTP97B3FD53BD6C874278C7ACCE090@phx.gbl>

Thanks for the input bob. I (we) know exactly what you mean. There is
??something to be said about the joy of driving a car with limits on ??twisty
roads, especially (for us) the TR6 roadster. You don't have to be ??going like
a bat out of hell to love the quirky handling, the engine ??noises and the
open-air feeling. And if you're just in the mood for easy ??touring, that
ain't hard on the love factor neither.????I'm sure that a Z4, or porsche or
whatever owner would have something to ??say about how they love their car
too. Every car has its own character, ??and if you're looking for perfection,
it ain't gonna happen.????I worked on a film production this past fall. We had
to take turns ??driving about a dozen brand new jap/american/euro cars for a
bunch of ??scenes. Yes, they were smooth and tight, but they practically drove
??themselves!!! Yep, if i owned them and had to drive 'em everyday, i'd ??get
kinda bored too.????Cheers,??dimitri koutsoufis??'72 TR6 with a '69
engine????Bob Rochlin wrote:??> So my wife got a 2005 BMW Z4 as kind of a
retirement thing.  ??

From longroadhomefarm at gmail.com  Wed Jan  5 16:12:23 2011
From: longroadhomefarm at gmail.com (James E. Long)
Date: Wed, 5 Jan 2011 17:12:23 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Prepurchase inspection, 1967 Ford
Message-ID: <AANLkTinS_4H_Ve3=9D6-TMU+X=FriB=NEBs03=GWQFX3@mail.gmail.com>

Gentlemen,

My son in law is corresponding with a firefighter in Omaha, NB about a 1967
Ford Fairlane.

He is a Marine stationed at Miramar MCAS in San Diego and would like to have
someone give the car a quick look before he flies in for a more detailed
inspection and  hopefully the purchase.

We don't have anyone in the surrogate buyers network. Is there anyone in the
club in the area or does anyone know anyone who might be willing to look at
the car?  We are willing to reimburse for time and fuel.

I understand it's not British, but if anyone understands oil leaks and rust
it has to be us.

Jim Long
74 Mimosa and Chestnut

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Thu Jan  6 09:51:16 2011
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2011 08:51:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 vs Z4
Message-ID: <548368.36761.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

My foreign car service manager friend pointed out that you gotta love TR6 parts 
prices vs. BMW.

Bruce Simms

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Thu Jan  6 12:05:12 2011
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2011 14:05:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 vs Z4
In-Reply-To: <548368.36761.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <548368.36761.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY143-W51A29FFAEB65F945ED843C60A0@phx.gbl>

You need to multiply the cost by the frequency of replacement...


> Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2011 08:51:16 -0800
> From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] TR6 vs Z4
>
> My foreign car service manager friend pointed out that you gotta love TR6
parts
> prices vs. BMW.
>
> Bruce Simms
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alanatkinson at hotmail.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jan  6 16:00:23 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 06 Jan 2011 23:00:23 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 vs Z4
Message-ID: <COL123-DS2411E760846E333714682DF40A0@phx.gbl>

Along with the $ cost, we have to figure in smiles per mile in all of this. And when's the last time someone gave a thumbs up to the driver of the Z3/4?

Dick

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu Jan  6 16:42:45 2011
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2011 15:42:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 vs Z4
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS2411E760846E333714682DF40A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <365210.46390.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I would like to chime in on this and say that I have driven a funky old Z3
with the 4 cylinder motor and it was a lot of fun. It's not overly refined and
has some rawness around the edges. No, it's not as fast as a 6 cyl car, but
it's lighter. As Mr. Colin Chapman said, "Add lightness". I'd like to think
it's what the Spifire or MGB would have become, had they the opportunity. As
we all know, it's not how fast the car goes; what matters is how the car makes
you feel when you go fast. Ask anyone who owns a bugeye Sprite.
 
Or a TR6!!
 
Jim

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu Jan  6 16:45:13 2011
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Jan 2011 18:45:13 EST
Subject: [6pack] TR6 vs Z4
Message-ID: <a5bb9.50242278.3a57ae09@cs.com>

I drive the TR3A and the Ambro on the street...we also have a Miata

Always a thumbs up and kids say 'cool car' or 'sweet' with TR3A

With the Ambro, they dont know what it is and look the other way......

With Miata we drove the entire length of Blue Ridge Parkway and nobody 
noticed it.

After 50 years of driving Triumphs, I still like the attention. I admit it.



> Along with the $ cost, we have to figure in smiles per mile in all of 
> this. And when's the last time someone gave a thumbs up to the driver of the 
> Z3/4?
> 
> Dick
> 

</HTML>

From janah at att.net  Fri Jan  7 15:06:43 2011
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 14:06:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <784823.85513.qm@web180607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

<snip> And when's the last time someone gave a thumbs up to the driver of the
Z3/4?<snip>
 
Well, maybe not the thumb.....  ;-)
 
John Cyg

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Fri Jan  7 16:11:58 2011
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 23:11:58 +0000
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs TR6 car noise and doors revisited
Message-ID: <BAY150-w330F74AB41344AEE1900899F0B0@phx.gbl>

	One thing I neglected to mention in my original post was the sound of the Z4
doors closing.  The doors have the tinniest sound you can imagine when you
close them.  I thought that car manufacturers made a science of making doors
sound solid when they closed.  I guess the Z4 design team missed the memo.  In
comparison the TR6 door sounds like a vault door when you close it.	As someone
pointed out the noise level of a convertible can become very high at speed.
The Department of Consumer Safety  came out with a study that showed that the
road noise at highway speeds from a modern convertible with the top down could
generate decibel levels that could damage hearing over a period of time.  Just
for the hell of it I'd like to know what the decibel level of a TR is at 65
MPH.  Could it be that we've all been, figurative speaking, driving at the end
of a jet runway all of these years?		Bob Rochlin	'72 TR6

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Fri Jan  7 18:44:39 2011
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 20:44:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs TR6 car noise and doors revisited
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w330F74AB41344AEE1900899F0B0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY150-w330F74AB41344AEE1900899F0B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimq7HbEGG-KLOLBxXv+-wtE8KQE4vp=JL25c2jV@mail.gmail.com>

It's for this very reason I took to wearing ear plugs when driving the TR
any distance. The din can wear you out, too.

--Phil Barnes
--'71 TR6 since 1977
On Fri, Jan 7, 2011 at 6:11 PM, Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin at hotmail.com> wrote:

>  Just for the hell of it I'd like to know what the decibel level of a TR is
> at 65
> MPH.  Could it be that we've all been, figurative speaking, driving at the
> end
> of a jet runway all of these years?

From jay_welch at juno.com  Sat Jan  8 03:31:22 2011
From: jay_welch at juno.com (Jay Welch)
Date: Sat, 8 Jan 2011 10:31:22 GMT
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs TR6 car noise and doors revisited
Message-ID: <20110108.053122.12513.0@webmail23.vgs.untd.com>

Thanks Guys for all the feedback.

A few years back I did the Zoom Zoom Live at the old South Weymouth Air Base
in Massachusetts. Mazda held an event where you could autocross their vehicles
on the air strips.

It was a great time and got to test their 3, 6, Miata and RX8 products.

I came away from that event really liking the Miata...even over the RX8.  Of
course there is no comparison between the engine power and the fact that the 8
was a coupe but you could really throw the Miata around and it was quite peppy
for a 4.  I also like the 3 over the 6.  I think I just like the smaller cars
for the agility.  It appears that Mazda discontinued the Zoom Zoom events
stopped.

BMW did a similar event there.  I wish I took a Z3 through the paces as well.

Thanks again and Happy New Year,

Jay in MA
Member CCBCC

---------- Original Message ----------
From: Bob Rochlin <r_rochlin at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs TR6 car noise and doors revisited
Date: Fri, 7 Jan 2011 23:11:58 +0000

	One thing I neglected to mention in my original post was the sound of the Z4
doors closing.  The doors have the tinniest sound you can imagine when you
close them.  I thought that car manufacturers made a science of making doors
sound solid when they closed.  I guess the Z4 design team missed the memo.
In
comparison the TR6 door sounds like a vault door when you close it.	As
someone
pointed out the noise level of a convertible can become very high at speed.
The Department of Consumer Safety  came out with a study that showed that the
road noise at highway speeds from a modern convertible with the top down
could
generate decibel levels that could damage hearing over a period of time.
Just
for the hell of it I'd like to know what the decibel level of a TR is at 65
MPH.  Could it be that we've all been, figurative speaking, driving at the
end
of a jet runway all of these years?		Bob Rochlin	'72 TR6
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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____________________________________________________________
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$1* Buys $50,000 Life Insurance. Adults or Children. No Medical Exam.
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From jguyot1 at maine.rr.com  Sun Jan  9 21:06:26 2011
From: jguyot1 at maine.rr.com (Jerry Guyot)
Date: Sun, 9 Jan 2011 23:06:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6
Message-ID: <2353230DE67641A29B2AD76200E6A5B6@JerrySony>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jerry Guyot" <jguyot1 at maine.rr.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Jay Welch" <jay_welch at juno.com>
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6


Hi Jay,

Well, I went from a 71 TR6  Which had gone through a complete body off
restoration 5 years previous to my purchasing it in 2005 and sold in 2007 to
purchase a 1999 BMW Z3m and yes, I have been very happy with my decision. I
really enjoyed the TR6 (Loved the exhaust note!!), but what I really wanted
was something that was more reliable. While I enjoyed working on it once in
a while, it just seemed that I was working on it more than I was driving it.
The things that I like about the Z3m was it styling and it reliability, it's
also dry during a rain storm! ;-). The heated seats on those cold mornings;
Also, when you put the windows up and the heater on, it is comfortable right
down to the low 50's!  The power!!!  240hp (The Z4m 315hp!) It still puts a
smile on my face every time I drive it......
The things that I don't like about the Z3m are it is not easy to work on
(Much more complicated) But I have not had hardly any problems with it. The
trunk is smaller than the TR6, and there is no space behind the seats.
Everything you buy for it is very expensive ... parts and accessories! I do
miss the "Sound" of the TR6 .... So, I finally just bought a new exhaust for
it..... Can't wait till spring ;-)
 But, I still have a "soft spot" for the TR6 (Which is why I still monitor
this list........)

Hope this helps......

Jerry in ME

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jay Welch" <jay_welch at juno.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 05, 2011 7:36 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] BMW Z4 vs Triumph TR6


Hi,

That was a good comparison of the two Bob.

Can anyone on the list compare their TR6 experiences with the BMW Z3 model
or
a recent model Mazda MX5?

My understanding is that the Z3 was a hodgepodge of parts from previous or
existing models thrown together to make a roadster without a lot of thought
put into the design of the suspension while the Z4 was designed from the
ground up.

Thanks,
Jay in MA
Member CCBCC

From rsh17 at msn.com  Mon Jan 10 11:06:41 2011
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 12:06:41 -0600
Subject: [6pack] 1969 TR6, "not" on Ebay
Message-ID: <SNT127-W59AA3A27802182DC43598AAA0E0@phx.gbl>

Ebay Item #130472191670

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130472191670&vi
ewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT




There is a "1969" TR6 on Ebay which the guy is saying is a 69 really pushing
it as the 1st year, bad thing is it isn't. Only thing that might be from a 69
is the bumpers, steering colum, ign switch and vin plate. The Body
/engine/dash/door panels are from a latter 6. I don't think the seats are 69
ones either. The car is in Hawaii,  I asked the seller about it and here is
his reply.


My question-Do
 you know the history of this car? It looks more like a later year
body.As there are many things that are WRONG for a "69, wrong dash board
 and plinth knobs are incorrect., The motor or at least the carbs and
intake are incorrect, wind shield frame being painted black as '69's
were body color,, plus if an original overdrive car it should have a vin
 # ending in "O", plus gas cap should be magnetic, 2 switches in the
drivers "A" post are not right, latter model dist and and alternator,
dual exhaust pipes are also from a latter car, latter model door panels.


 The only thing that is correct are the seats, ignition switch placement
 and steering wheel, and vinn for a 69, if the motor is original the
number should end in HE.

It looks like a later model car w/ vinn
plate, seats, steering wheel and ignition switch from a 69. I don't
think you have what you are advertising as a 1969 TR-6.

His reply-Hello and thank you for you email,


   Truthfully I don't know too much of the car's history as I am sure it
 had a multitude of owners in the last 42 years. I acquired it in its
present state, and simply used it. It is possible that in the late 70's
or early 80's when these cars were "a dime a dozen" that the owner used
bits and pieces of a later donor car to keep his Triumph on the road.
The transmission I heard was upgraded with an overdrive one and hence I
suppose they must have had to take the steering column to make use of
the overdrive switch.  The original dash must have rotted away, as wood
does. Anything is possible with these cars really.  Only with an
original one owner car could you know the whole history.

Thanks again for your knowledge, I wish I knew more about the car to tell
you.


Richard Seaton

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon Jan 10 12:23:33 2011
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 19:23:33 +0000
Subject: [6pack] 1969 TR6, "not" on Ebay
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W59AA3A27802182DC43598AAA0E0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W59AA3A27802182DC43598AAA0E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W1CB804A68DDA289451A938E0E0@phx.gbl>

Funny, I was just looking at it also. No doubt we know more about our babies
that a lot of 'one time' owners do. 'Let the buyer beware' I suppose.
Obviously this is a 70-73, not a 69. There's more to the dash being wrong that
just putting in a new piece of wood, but he doesn't know any better. But my
knowledge is with a 69 & a 73, so I'm not certain what year every little thing
changed either. He's got the commision plate from CC27221L. I drive CC26455L,
1969, no OD.

It's sure ugly (IMO) with the body-color tail. No offence if your's is also
body-color, so please let that one slide. It just mine is also white, and that
rear shot makes me cringe. But when I had mine painted I went with black on
the windscreen frame(not orig on a 69), so to each his own I suppose.

Sloane :o)

<Snip>
> There is a "1969" TR6 on Ebay which the guy is saying is a 69 really
pushing
> it as the 1st year, bad thing is it isn't.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Jan 10 14:07:55 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 10 Jan 2011 16:07:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 1969 TR6, "not" on Ebay
References: <SNT127-W59AA3A27802182DC43598AAA0E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <26D298DA6E144FE0847B1B751D915136@Alan>

I sent him a message yesterday.
I told his its a 74 that someone switched commision plates on, and dressed 
it up with seats & steering wheel.
You could switch dashboards the pain that that would be,
BUT:
The A post door switches are what really gives it away.
Early cars did not have two switches.
I Got the same reply.
Either he did it or hes passing his misfortune onto some unsuspecting fool.

Big surprise for who buys it.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Richard Seaton" <rsh17 at msn.com>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 10, 2011 1:06 PM
Subject: [6pack] 1969 TR6, "not" on Ebay


> Ebay Item #130472191670
>
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=130472191670&vi
> ewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT
>
>
>
>
> There is a "1969" TR6 on Ebay which the guy is saying is a 69 really 
> pushing
> it as the 1st year, bad thing is it isn't. Only thing that might be from a 
> 69
> is the bumpers, steering colum, ign switch and vin plate. The Body
> /engine/dash/door panels are from a latter 6. I don't think the seats are 
> 69
> ones either. The car is in Hawaii,  I asked the seller about it and here 
> is
> his reply.

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Tue Jan 11 06:03:18 2011
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2011 08:03:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye Triumph Cabin Fever Swap Meet
Message-ID: <AANLkTin_=HA-aXUJ_O3jbEfX0GugsK_hD2uApMx3US9h@mail.gmail.com>

Hey everyone,

We at Buckeye Triumphs are planning on doing something a little bit
different with our February members' meeting. Instead of our normal
Monday night meeting, this year we are planning on hosting the Buckeye
Triump Cabin Fever Swap Meet. It will be an opportunity to bring your
Triumph-related parts and pieces (and anything else you have that your
significant other wants you to clear out of the garage)! Well also
have an array of Buckeye Triumph regalia on sale.

Additionally, Doug Braden of Doug's British Cars and Parts will be
there, so if you want to order something from him, touch base with him
now (http://www.triumphparts.com/) and get your order in so that he
can have it for you at the swap meet.

And most importantly, we want to open it up to people in the central
Ohio region. So if you live in the area (or live outside central Ohio
and just have a burning desire to visit the Columbus area in the dead
of winter), feel free to join us.

Time: Feb. 5th, 12:00a -4:00p
Location: The Kayes Company offices and warehouse
643 Bear Run Lane
Lewis Center, 43035

You can see the flyer on our website:  http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/

Thanks!

John V.

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Fri Jan 14 06:01:03 2011
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 08:01:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] milestone
Message-ID: <AANLkTinXDzGU5QNNLKpoe0EEG=L-KJWjY7EMSjAxLA_G@mail.gmail.com>

Forty years ago today, CC61193L was assembled. The old girl is presently
hibernating in the barn; perhaps I should go have a peek just to say hello.

--Phil Barnes
--'71 TR6 since 1977

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Fri Jan 14 06:50:45 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Fri, 14 Jan 2011 08:50:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] milestone
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinXDzGU5QNNLKpoe0EEG=L-KJWjY7EMSjAxLA_G@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinXDzGU5QNNLKpoe0EEG=L-KJWjY7EMSjAxLA_G@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <65F7671CAA424F5198A6ADADD1D32685@DCH6RFC1>

The least you can do is sing Happy Birthday.  For my fortieth my wife (a
pharmacist) got a Viagra bottle and filled it with Aleve.  My friends got a
chuckle out of that...............

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Philip Barnes
Sent: Friday, January 14, 2011 8:01 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Triumphs Digest
Subject: [TR] milestone

Forty years ago today, CC61193L was assembled. The old girl is presently
hibernating in the barn; perhaps I should go have a peek just to say hello.

--Phil Barnes
--'71 TR6 since 1977
_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/auprichard at uprichard.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jan 16 11:18:52 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 16 Jan 2011 13:18:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Hylomar at Moss
Message-ID: <842DCADE15504B998B8648BF0D45711F@BobPC>

In the midst of the "Proper Gasket Installation" thread I got an email from 
Moss linking (http://tinyurl.com/6f5lw4d) to two different types of Hylomar 
that they now carry. If that link doesn't work it's part# 232-215 and 
232-220. Neither is cheap! I'm not sure where their "old" Hylomar # 221-556 
fits into this new mix.


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs 

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 11:26:27 2011
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:26:27 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
Message-ID: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just 
gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the springs 
behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I 
always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very difficult. 
 I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the 
handles back on. 
 
I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  one? 
 Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose 
vise grips & needle nose pliers.
 
Thanks,
Darrell

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Jan 17 11:52:16 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 13:52:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIZ/0lZBZ/dDhKbHRlfpuPsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

Hello Darrell,
I used a cut down piece of a finishing nail that is a tiny bit narrower than
that barrel instead.
It went in easy and spring pressure keeps a hold on it, been working just
fine.
You might give it a try.
Regards,
Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

Hey Guys,
I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just
gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the springs
behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I
always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very difficult.

 I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
handles back on. 
 
I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  one? 
 Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose vise
grips & needle nose pliers.
 
Thanks,
Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jan 17 12:29:00 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 14:29:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIZ/0lZBZ/dDhKbHRlfpuPsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
	<!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAIZ/0lZBZ/dDhKbHRlfpuPsBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <563518A9DEBE401381C121E17350256F@BobPC>

I've never done it with the springs but here two techniques that work well.

1. Toward the end of this article are a few pictures 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm

2. The other involves a welding rod or thick wire hanger. Slide it through 
the handle to determine the length of a pin needed and score the rod/hanger 
with a wire cutter. Mount the handle to the door, slide the rod/wire in and 
wiggle it back and forth until it snaps. Both fixes are very easy to 
do.............at least without the spring.

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs

-----Original Message----- 
From: Bob
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:52 PM
To: TR250Driver at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

Hello Darrell,
I used a cut down piece of a finishing nail that is a tiny bit narrower than
that barrel instead.
It went in easy and spring pressure keeps a hold on it, been working just
fine.
You might give it a try.
Regards,
Bob

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

Hey Guys,
I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just
gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the springs
behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I
always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very difficult.

I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
handles back on.

I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  one?
Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose vise
grips & needle nose pliers.

Thanks,
Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________
Triumphs at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $11.47
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Manage your account: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From longroadhomefarm at gmail.com  Mon Jan 17 14:15:12 2011
From: longroadhomefarm at gmail.com (James E. Long)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 15:15:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Panel install
Message-ID: <AANLkTimsOLyxv63DM3S9kwQg3goH8gEzTf87rS09NZNx@mail.gmail.com>

Darrell,

I have a small pair of needle nose vise grips.

 Push the panel in all you dare and clamp the vise grips on the shaft.
Should give you just enough room to slip the pin in.

Be careful not to tear the panel covering with the vise grips...VOE

Jim
74 Mimosa/Chestnut

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Jan 17 15:25:00 2011
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 17:25:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
References: <78800.69d9f900.3a65e3d3@aol.com>
Message-ID: <74A4BC67B8FA404483BB15D285818C43@Alan>

I use a straight pick and tape the barrel to it with masking tape or 
electrical tape.
I use 1 or two flat blade screw drivers to hold the plastic piece down and 
put the barrel in place with the pick.


Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation


> Hey Guys,
> I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we just
> gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the 
> springs
> behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I think I
> always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very 
> difficult.
> I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
> handles back on.
>
> I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy 
> one?
> Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose
> vise grips & needle nose pliers.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Jan 17 16:28:08 2011
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 18:28:08 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
Message-ID: <4D34D088.1070602@maine.rr.com>

I can quickly attest to Bob's techniques, he's stated below. When I 
redid the
interior of my car several years ago, I put all the handles back on 
without the
springs and have never noticed or missed them. The slick trick of 
scoring the
wire/rod and bending a few times to snap it off are SO easy, even I 
could do
it!

Dave
'74-Six w/Patton TBI


On 1/17/2011 2:29 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:
> I've never done it with the springs but here two techniques that work 
> well.
>
> 1. Toward the end of this article are a few pictures 
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm
>
> 2. The other involves a welding rod or thick wire hanger. Slide it 
> through the handle
> to determine the length of a pin needed and score the rod/hanger with 
> a wire cutter.
> Mount the handle to the door, slide the rod/wire in and wiggle it back 
> and forth until
> it snaps. Both fixes are very easy to do.............at least without 
> the spring.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
>
> Hey Guys,
> I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we 
> just
> gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the 
> springs
> behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I 
> think I
> always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very 
> difficult.
>
> I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
> handles back on.
>
> I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  
> one?
> Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose 
> vise
> grips & needle nose pliers.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 16:34:36 2011
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 23:34:36 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
In-Reply-To: <4D34D088.1070602@maine.rr.com>
References: <4D34D088.1070602@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1117192662-1295307118-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1166681466-@bda108.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I use a thick wire coat hanger for the pin, scoured to break at the right point.  No spring.  2 minutes per door.  

Lou
72 Pimento
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion at maine.rr.com>
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 18:28:08 
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Reply-To: forzion at maine.rr.com
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR]  TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation

I can quickly attest to Bob's techniques, he's stated below. When I 
redid the
interior of my car several years ago, I put all the handles back on 
without the
springs and have never noticed or missed them. The slick trick of 
scoring the
wire/rod and bending a few times to snap it off are SO easy, even I 
could do
it!

Dave
'74-Six w/Patton TBI


On 1/17/2011 2:29 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:
> I've never done it with the springs but here two techniques that work 
> well.
>
> 1. Toward the end of this article are a few pictures 
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm
>
> 2. The other involves a welding rod or thick wire hanger. Slide it 
> through the handle
> to determine the length of a pin needed and score the rod/hanger with 
> a wire cutter.
> Mount the handle to the door, slide the rod/wire in and wiggle it back 
> and forth until
> it snaps. Both fixes are very easy to do.............at least without 
> the spring.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 1975 TR6 with:
> Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed
> Nissan Diff & CVJs
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, January 17, 2011 1:26 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] TR6 Inside Door Handle Installation
>
> Hey Guys,
> I have about an hour in it now with Beverly helping.  No  success, we 
> just
> gave up.  Trying to get that little barrel into both  holes with the 
> springs
> behind the door is impossible!!!!!  I have done  this before but I 
> think I
> always coped out and took the springs out.  Then  it is just very 
> difficult.
>
> I have the door glass replaced, the panel back  on and all I need is the
> handles back on.
>
> I hear there is a special tool for this.  Anyone know where I can buy  
> one?
> Any tips on how to make this job possible?  I tried using needle  nose 
> vise
> grips & needle nose pliers.
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From Timbo00001 at aol.com  Mon Jan 17 17:17:22 2011
From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 19:17:22 EST
Subject: [6pack] Panel install
Message-ID: <565b6.12e53b2f.3a663612@aol.com>

I agree with this methodology, together with a lot of perseverance and  
patience (something I'm in short supply of, so I don't own the TR6 any  longer.)
 
 
In a message dated 1/17/2011 4:15:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
longroadhomefarm at gmail.com writes:

Darrell,

I have a small pair of needle nose vise  grips.

Push the panel in all you dare and clamp the vise grips on the  shaft.
Should give you just enough room to slip the pin in.

Be  careful not to tear the panel covering with the vise  grips...VOE

Jim
74  Mimosa/Chestnut
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/timbo00001 at aol.com

From motrv8d at hotmail.com  Mon Jan 17 17:51:24 2011
From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 00:51:24 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Panel install
In-Reply-To: <565b6.12e53b2f.3a663612@aol.com>
References: <565b6.12e53b2f.3a663612@aol.com>
Message-ID: <COL118-W43A982205FD19F9DC582CAE1F70@phx.gbl>

I never used any of the mentioned ideas. I put the pin barely in the hole of
the handle, then put the pastic washer against the pin,(and handle), and then
put on the handle, with the spring in place,  and using the pressure of the
washer to hold the pin in place, push the handle on, and then use a thin
screwdriver to puch the pin through till it is in its proper place. But I have
to admit, next time I do one, I'll use the long wire with the scoring idea. Go
Bob! I love your site!

 "War is an ugly thing, but not the ugliest of things;
the decayed and degraded state of moral and patriotic feeling which
thinks nothing worth a war, is worse. A man who has nothing which he
cares more about than he does about his personal safety is a miserable
creature who has no chance at being free, unless made and kept so by the
 exertions of better men than himself." John Stewart Mill, British philosopher
1806-1873




> From: Timbo00001 at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 17 Jan 2011 19:17:22 -0500
> To: longroadhomefarm at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Panel install
>
> I agree with this methodology, together with a lot of perseverance and
> patience (something I'm in short supply of, so I don't own the TR6 any
longer.)
>
>
> In a message dated 1/17/2011 4:15:22 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> longroadhomefarm at gmail.com writes:
>
> Darrell,
>
> I have a small pair of needle nose vise  grips.
>
> Push the panel in all you dare and clamp the vise grips on the  shaft.
> Should give you just enough room to slip the pin in.
>
> Be  careful not to tear the panel covering with the vise  grips...VOE
>
> Jim
> 74  Mimosa/Chestnut
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/timbo00001 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/motrv8d at hotmail.com

From trglory at verizon.net  Tue Jan 18 08:46:16 2011
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 10:46:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimaNsBffcdOnHmv72brqjHwwYKYUEFsXS2iZteJ@mail.gmail.com>
References: <20110117011612.54A4A2E092@bradakis.com>
	<201101170814.34646.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<D2ABE2FF57114CCDA259F83C3A70BEB4@paulal73q2sjay>
	<802A05F015F749AD8ABF277F9E7E68F4@bboffice>
	<AANLkTimaNsBffcdOnHmv72brqjHwwYKYUEFsXS2iZteJ@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003f01cbb726$d8451f40$88cf5dc0$@net>

Count me in with the rest of the troglodytes. It may not be pretty but it's
convenient.

I'll probably be the last lister standing.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Innis
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 9:29 AM
To: wbeech at flash.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] New Forum - Email vs. Forum

I guess I prefer the email format too.  Mainly because it puts all the
various groups I like to keep up on in one place, my inbox.  I find
that it is too much of a hassle to go to all the different forums and
scan through all the differnet topics to see if there is something
interesting.  I gave up on several groups when they abandoned the
email list and went forum only.

On Mon, Jan 17, 2011 at 6:42 PM,  <wbeech at flash.net> wrote:
> I agree with Paul on both counts:
>
> 1. Prefer the email format, even with its limitations it gets to me at my
> desk or iPhone
> 2. It is a new year and probably time to appreciate Mark monetarily for
all
> the work he does keeping this thing going.
> 3. Just in case you missed it at the bottom of every email:
> http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> Thanks Mark!!
>
> Bill Beecher
> '58 TR-3A TS30766L  "Tarbaby"
> www.triumphowners.com/1566
> "A Triumph is man's best friend, it always comes when it is called...of
> course, some times it is difficult to make it go"

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Tue Jan 18 14:04:44 2011
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 16:04:44 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye Triumph Cabin Fever Swap Meet
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin_=HA-aXUJ_O3jbEfX0GugsK_hD2uApMx3US9h@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTin_=HA-aXUJ_O3jbEfX0GugsK_hD2uApMx3US9h@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimJqCYbPRpTiykDDs9CMNQ_=F4P3S9=KUeyJsKK@mail.gmail.com>

Hey everyone, just wanted to follow up with some more info on the
Buckeye Triumph Cabin Fever Swap Meet.
It looks like that Ted Schumacher of TS Imported Automotive will also
be joining us, so if you are coming and would like to order something
from Ted so that he can have it there, contact him.  Here is his info:


Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

Thanks!

John V.

On Tue, Jan 11, 2011 at 8:03 AM, John VanNorman <jsvannorman at gmail.com>
wrote:

>
> Hey everyone,
>
> We at Buckeye Triumphs are planning on doing something a little bit
> different with our February members' meeting. Instead of our normal
> Monday night meeting, this year we are planning on hosting the Buckeye
> Triump Cabin Fever Swap Meet. It will be an opportunity to bring your
> Triumph-related parts and pieces (and anything else you have that your
> significant other wants you to clear out of the garage)! Well also
> have an array of Buckeye Triumph regalia on sale.
>
> Additionally, Doug Braden of Doug's British Cars and Parts will be
> there, so if you want to order something from him, touch base with him
> now (http://www.triumphparts.com/) and get your order in so that he
> can have it for you at the swap meet.
>
> And most importantly, we want to open it up to people in the central
> Ohio region. So if you live in the area (or live outside central Ohio
> and just have a burning desire to visit the Columbus area in the dead
> of winter), feel free to join us.
>
> Time: Feb. 5th, 12:00a -4:00p
> Location: The Kayes Company offices and warehouse
> 643 Bear Run Lane
> Lewis Center, 43035
>
> You can see the flyer on our website:  http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/
>
> Thanks!
>
> John V.

From mjmullin at juno.com  Tue Jan 18 16:12:36 2011
From: mjmullin at juno.com (mjmullin at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 23:12:36 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Valve lash question
Message-ID: <20110118.181236.27873.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>

Hi all: I too prefer the list.  If I could surf the net all day at work, I'd
likely be a more frequent visitor to the forums!!! Problem/topic for
discussion:  I was setting my valve lash yesterday (after five or ten years?)
and would have thought the clearances would have remained rock solid all these
years, but to my surprise, most of the valves loosened up a little - I guess
it's wear in the valve train, cam, lifters, etc.  More surprisingly, two of
the exhaust valves (#5 and #9, fed by different carbs) had closed up.  It's a
Ted Schumacher 275 cam that's supposed to have .020" hot on the exhausts; one
had gone down to .010' and the other to .006" cold.  Wow. Valve seat
recession?  Junk falling down into the lifters?..highly unlikely. I though
that the concensus on this side of the pond was that valve seat wear was an
urban legend? I'll finish with a tip that I learned a while back - use thin
feeler gauges that are no wider than the valve stem, that way you'll get the
true clearance.  If you use the more common wider style, you may not be able
to "feel" a groove that's been worn in the underside of the rocker arm pad.  I
guess if things get that bad, it's time to replace the rocker arms! Thanks
all, Matt Mullin
____________________________________________________________
Obama Urges Homeowners to Refinance
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obama's Refi Program
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4d361e803d8cece88b5st02vuc

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Tue Jan 18 19:24:47 2011
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Tue, 18 Jan 2011 18:24:47 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Valve lash question
In-Reply-To: <20110118.181236.27873.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20110118.181236.27873.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <002501cbb780$0b4fb0e0$21ef12a0$@navarrette@comcast.net>

	Matt:

	It may be recession, although it is also possible that you set the
lash too tight in the first place. I have certainly set them too tight on
more than one occasion.

	The exhaust valves are the ones that will recede as the heat makes
the valve seats erode. I would reset the lash, double check it, and then
periodically remeasure it to see if it tightens up again. If it does, it may
be time to pull the head and have hardened seats installed. Drat.

	Have you read your plugs? Was the mixture lean? Lean mixtures will
really make the seats recede as the high temperature takes its toll. So
reset the mixture if your plugs are light colored or white.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mjmullin at juno.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 18, 2011 3:13 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Valve lash question

Hi all: I too prefer the list.  If I could surf the net all day at work, I'd
likely be a more frequent visitor to the forums!!! Problem/topic for
discussion:  I was setting my valve lash yesterday (after five or ten
years?)
and would have thought the clearances would have remained rock solid all
these
years, but to my surprise, most of the valves loosened up a little - I guess
it's wear in the valve train, cam, lifters, etc.  More surprisingly, two of
the exhaust valves (#5 and #9, fed by different carbs) had closed up.  It's
a
Ted Schumacher 275 cam that's supposed to have .020" hot on the exhausts;
one
had gone down to .010' and the other to .006" cold.  Wow. Valve seat
recession?  

<snip>

Matt Mullin

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Jan 19 00:41:14 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 07:41:14 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Valve lash question
Message-ID: <COL123-DS11D30AC2CE6C6710643928F4F60@phx.gbl>

Matt---You didn't mention how many miles you may have covered since your last valve adjustment. If it's been 12,000 miles or more, then it was time to take a check on them. Most of the time the lash will grow, as wear takes place in the valve train. It's possible that valve recession can cancel out the lash increase, to some degree. Still, it's not usually a concern for most of our engines if the lash is checked periodically. 

The "thin width" feeler gauge is a good idea, esp. on rockers that have seen a lot of service. 

You'll want to check on the lash more frequently until you're sure that the rate of recession (if this is what's occurring) is predictable. If you should lose all the lash, this can cause burnt valves, should they not close all the way.

Dick

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Jan 19 16:00:34 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 19 Jan 2011 18:00:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR250 suspension question
In-Reply-To: <1850343841.1525270.1295473894326.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <BBBCBEA8808C4C3F9A4B9A3F2057DE71@ranteer.local>
	<1850343841.1525270.1295473894326.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <882EB54E83514278AA3A7C62329BE49D@DCH6RFC1>

A question for the cognoscenti :-)

How much "spring" should there be in the lower A arms? (the car is a TR250,
but I imagine it also holds true for others)  If I attach them to the frame,
I have about a quarter-inch gap either side of the trunnion on the passenger
side.  The gap is minimal on the driver's side.  The converse is also true:
If I build the suspension on the bench and present it to the car, some
effort is required to attach and tighten them.  I should add that all parts
are new and I am using neoprene bushings.

Perhaps I am being too obsessive here - and the fix would presumably require
frame alterations - but before I "tighten it all up", I'd be interested in
your collective thoughts.

Andrew Uprichard
TCF 191L (TR3B) 6 years post-restoration
CD 8433 L (TR250) probably 6 years to go

From tr6driver at earthlink.net  Thu Jan 20 19:18:37 2011
From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Thu, 20 Jan 2011 21:18:37 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] April 15-17 2011 -- South Central British Car Gathering
Message-ID: <28170012.1295576317748.JavaMail.root@wamui-junio.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Wanted to make sure you 6-Packers were aware of our kickoff show for the year.  Hosted by the Triumph Club of the Carolinas, the event will take place at Shelton Vineyards, Dobson, NC.  To see more details, check out the website at http://www.triumphclub.org, but here's a simplified list of events:
Friday:  Tour/Rallye and Auction
Saturday:  Show and BBQ dinner
Sunday:  Driving events, including an autocross

We had almost 60 TR6's last year and are looking for even more this year--including our "world famous" TR6 ChumpCar racer!  Come one, come all!  If you need more info, please feel free to email me directly at tr6driver at yahoo.com.

Jamie Palmer

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Jan 23 07:57:00 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 08:57:00 -0600
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable
In-Reply-To: <4D2134CA.1050109@dfn.com>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>
	<F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local>
	<4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>
	<CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>
	<001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>
	<4D2134CA.1050109@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <E2ECDBC1FBD9447D8BAAA063D67F348F@ranteer.local>

?good morning, all.

I need to remove the speedo cable and lube it; its gyrating.

in order to really lube it, I need to remove the speedo so I can take
advantage of gravity.

am I better off taking the tach out first?  seems like it might be worth it to
make it easier to remove the speedo.

I know there are two little nuts holding the speedo in, but one is very hard
to get to, and there are so many wires and cables!

thanks!

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sun Jan 23 12:49:42 2011
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 11:49:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable
In-Reply-To: <E2ECDBC1FBD9447D8BAAA063D67F348F@ranteer.local>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>
	<F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local>
	<4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>
	<CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>
	<001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>
	<4D2134CA.1050109@dfn.com>
	<E2ECDBC1FBD9447D8BAAA063D67F348F@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <978913.36857.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dave

Unless you have Giant sized hands, I fine it easier to just unscrew the
cable  
from the back of the speedo and put the cable out from in the engine
comparment. 


Either way you have the two little wheel nuts on the tach or
speedo to work 
with, Removing the tach and then attacking the cable on the
speedo is the easier 
of your other options.

Dale
________________________________
From: Dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To:
6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, January 23, 2011 9:57:00 AM
Subject: [6pack]
speedo cable

?good morning, all.

I need to remove the speedo cable and lube
it; its gyrating.

in order to really lube it, I need to remove the speedo so
I can take
advantage of gravity.

am I better off taking the tach out first? 
seems like it might be worth it to
make it easier to remove the speedo.

I
know there are two little nuts holding the speedo in, but one is very hard
to
get to, and there are so many wires and cables!

thanks!
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jan 23 13:12:58 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 15:12:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable
In-Reply-To: <E2ECDBC1FBD9447D8BAAA063D67F348F@ranteer.local>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1><F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local><4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local><CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net><001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net><4D2134CA.1050109@dfn.com>
	<E2ECDBC1FBD9447D8BAAA063D67F348F@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <C0ADEB921D8B4C1C9C40FFA068E41CFB@BobPC>

You don't need to remove the tach but doing so does give you more room. The 
things connected to the speedo is  the voltage stabilizer and usually some 
ground wires.

This is also a good time to check the tip of the cable to see if it meets 
spec which can be found toward the end of this page 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm  A lot of cables 
protrude too far into the speedo/tach and can cause internal damage.

Bob

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs





-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 9:57 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable

?good morning, all.

I need to remove the speedo cable and lube it; its gyrating.

in order to really lube it, I need to remove the speedo so I can take
advantage of gravity.

am I better off taking the tach out first?  seems like it might be worth it 
to
make it easier to remove the speedo.

I know there are two little nuts holding the speedo in, but one is very hard
to get to, and there are so many wires and cables!

thanks!

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Sun Jan 23 13:55:11 2011
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 20:55:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable
In-Reply-To: <978913.36857.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>,
	<F7529A869B5D412597016371CF72D356@ranteer.local>,
	<4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local>,
	<CB58BFB7-B351-4EAC-8FE9-8A3231247B74@comcast.net>,
	<001101cbaadf$fe416a80$fac43f80$@navarrette@comcast.net>,
	<4D2134CA.1050109@dfn.com>,
	<E2ECDBC1FBD9447D8BAAA063D67F348F@ranteer.local>,
	<978913.36857.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W4717CCA03FD80C677198F8EFA0@phx.gbl>

I agree with Dale. I think the easiest thing to do is to remove the tach so
you can access the back of the speedo, remove the cable without removing the
speedo. Less wires, less trouble. You do have to remove the various lights
from the tach. The trick on the little thumb screws is they don't have to come
all the way off. The bracket will pivot around out of the way to allow the
tach removal. This comes in real handy when putting it back. Put the brackets
on, turned out of the way, and slighty tighten the thumb screws. Then it's
easy to loosen a bit, turn the brackets around and tighten everything up.

Sloane :)

> Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 11:49:42 -0800
> From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com
> To: dave at ranteer.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] speedo cable
>
> Dave
>
> Unless you have Giant sized hands, I fine it easier to just unscrew the
> cable
> from the back of the speedo and put the cable out from in the engine
> comparment.
>
>
> Either way you have the two little wheel nuts on the tach or
> speedo to work
> with, Removing the tach and then attacking the cable on the
> speedo is the easier
> of your other options.
>
> Dale

From rlambour at comcast.net  Sun Jan 23 14:02:50 2011
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard Lambour)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 16:02:50 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Fuel System Questions
Message-ID: <001401cbbb40$e5865c00$b0931400$@comcast.net>

Hi,

 

I've asked some of these questions before, but a computer crash wiped out a
lot of my previous email files, so I'm asking again.

 

I have a 1970 TR-6 in the middle of a full restoration with a rotted fuel
tank.  The largest hole in the bottom is about the size of a quarter, but
there are several smaller holes in the same general area.  It appears the
anti-rattle felt somehow got wet for a while when the car was in storage and
wasn't kind to the tank.

 

The conservative engineer in me says don't mess around with anything holding
flammables and just replace the tank.  However, except for Victoria British,
all of the tanks are staggeringly expensive, basically out of my budget.
Do the VB tanks fit and work OK?

 

I'd also like to replace the fuel lines, but I can't find anyone who stocks
the metal fuel lines.  Any suggestions?  This seems to be an item I should
be able to pick up just about anywhere as long as I reproduce the width of
the original lines (???)

 

Thanks very much,

 

Rick

 

 

****************************************************************************
**

"To know what you know and to know what you don't know, that is real wisdom"
-Confucius

****************************************************************************
**

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Jan 23 14:05:55 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 23 Jan 2011 21:05:55 GMT
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable
Message-ID: <COL123-DS902E397C339CB5DD60081F4FA0@phx.gbl>

Dave---This is the way I found it easiest to grease the inner speedo cable:
Unscrew the knurled nut on the back of the speedo unit.
Pull the cable back about a half inch, so you can then drop the cable down far enough to reach the inner cable.
Pull it out its entire length and wipe a light coating of wheelbearing grease on all but the last foot at the speedo. (Enough grease will get scraped off onto the outer sheath to grease this last foot).

When reentering the inner cable, take care to not let grease touch any part of the under dash that you would find difficult to clean.
Put a twist on the inner cable while mating it to the driven end. You should feel the square end drop into the driver at the transmission.  
Take care not to crossthread this aluminum knurled nut, as you screw it back into the speedo.

You should not have to undo any of the light bulbs, ground wire, tach or appliances around the back of the speedo to do this chore.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Dave
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 6:57 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] speedo cable

?good morning, all.

I need to remove the speedo cable and lube it; its gyrating.

in order to really lube it, I need to remove the speedo so I can take
advantage of gravity.

am I better off taking the tach out first?  seems like it might be worth it to
make it easier to remove the speedo.

I know there are two little nuts holding the speedo in, but one is very hard
to get to, and there are so many wires and cables!

thanks!
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Sun Jan 23 20:35:13 2011
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 03:35:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Fuel System Questions
In-Reply-To: <001401cbbb40$e5865c00$b0931400$@comcast.net>
References: <001401cbbb40$e5865c00$b0931400$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W25D19A25E66FA79813A4038EFD0@phx.gbl>

 Rick,
I helped a buddy put a VB tank into his Spitfire, and it we had no problems
with it.

Sloane :)
68-Six


> Do the VB tanks fit and work OK?
>
>
>
> I'd also like to replace the fuel lines, but I can't find anyone who stocks
> the metal fuel lines. Any suggestions? This seems to be an item I should
> be able to pick up just about anywhere as long as I reproduce the width of
> the original lines (???)
>
>
>
> Thanks very much,
>
>
>
> Rick

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jan 24 05:37:08 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 07:37:08 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Fuel System Questions
In-Reply-To: <001401cbbb40$e5865c00$b0931400$@comcast.net>
References: <001401cbbb40$e5865c00$b0931400$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201101240737.09061.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Rick,

I see TR6 tanks on ebay from time to time. I believe TR4 - 6 tanks are all the 
same as far as size and fit. The later 6 tanks had the extra vent outlet.

But if you can get a welder, a repair should be no problem.

As far as fuel line, NAPA sells bulk line. Just take a small piece and they 
will match up the size.

I bought a coil while restoring the 4. After restoring the 6 I still have 
about 10' left over!

You will need a bending tool and the  old lines to use as a template.

Bob

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Jan 24 08:11:19 2011
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 15:11:19 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Fuel System Questions
In-Reply-To: <201101240737.09061.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <216292243.1850034.1295881879711.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Send your Tank to Moyer Tank Renu. Go on line to http://www.gas-tank.com/
B and see how he does it. You will never have to fix the tank again. I have
done three cars now with this and his work is guaranteed. Call for quotes.

From rlambour at comcast.net  Mon Jan 24 19:01:19 2011
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard Lambour)
Date: Mon, 24 Jan 2011 21:01:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 Fuel System Questions
In-Reply-To: <001401cbbb40$e5865c00$b0931400$@comcast.net>
References: <001401cbbb40$e5865c00$b0931400$@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <004101cbbc33$c257f790$4707e6b0$@comcast.net>

Thanks for the flood of responses on the fuel tank questions!   Lots of good
advice.  I'll go look the tank over again tomorrow (when its warmer!) and go
from there.

 

Not sure we kept the original fuel line fittings L

 

Rick 

1970 TR-6

 

 

 

From: owner-net at lists.mv.net [mailto:owner-net at lists.mv.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Lambour
Sent: Sunday, January 23, 2011 4:03 PM
To: net at lists.mv.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [net] TR-6 Fuel System Questions

 

Hi,

 

I've asked some of these questions before, but a computer crash wiped out a
lot of my previous email files, so I'm asking again.

 

I have a 1970 TR-6 in the middle of a full restoration with a rotted fuel
tank.  The largest hole in the bottom is about the size of a quarter, but
there are several smaller holes in the same general area.  It appears the
anti-rattle felt somehow got wet for a while when the car was in storage and
wasn't kind to the tank.

 

The conservative engineer in me says don't mess around with anything holding
flammables and just replace the tank.  However, except for Victoria British,
all of the tanks are staggeringly expensive, basically out of my budget.
Do the VB tanks fit and work OK?

 

I'd also like to replace the fuel lines, but I can't find anyone who stocks
the metal fuel lines.  Any suggestions?  This seems to be an item I should
be able to pick up just about anywhere as long as I reproduce the width of
the original lines (???)

 

Thanks very much,

 

Rick

 

 

****************************************************************************
**

"To know what you know and to know what you don't know, that is real wisdom"
-Confucius

****************************************************************************
**

From TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com  Wed Jan 26 18:48:49 2011
From: TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com (TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 20:48:49 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Dizzy
Message-ID: <bc367.5720361b.3a722901@aol.com>

Anyone know of a source to recurve my 71 dizzy and turn the "retard" unit  
into a vacuum advance unit ? 

From tgeiger at geigergarage.com  Wed Jan 26 21:04:18 2011
From: tgeiger at geigergarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2011 22:04:18 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Dizzy
In-Reply-To: <bc367.5720361b.3a722901@aol.com>
References: <bc367.5720361b.3a722901@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000001cbbdd7$472c6060$d5852120$@geigergarage.com>

Try Advanced Distributors.  I use them frequently, great service.  NFI
http://www.advanceddistributors.com/


Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, January 26, 2011 7:49 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Dizzy

Anyone know of a source to recurve my 71 dizzy and turn the "retard" unit
into a vacuum advance unit ? 
_______________________________________________

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jan 27 05:39:04 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 07:39:04 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Dizzy
In-Reply-To: <bc367.5720361b.3a722901@aol.com>
References: <bc367.5720361b.3a722901@aol.com>
Message-ID: <201101270739.04845.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, January 26, 2011 08:48:49 pm TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com wrote:
> Anyone know of a source to recurve my 71 dizzy and turn the "retard" unit
> into a vacuum advance unit ?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/yellowtr at adelphia.net
Another vote for Jeff at Advanced.

You will not believe your dizzy is the same one you shipped after Jeff 
performs his magic.

Bob

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Jan 27 07:44:33 2011
From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 08:44:33 -0600
Subject: [6pack] kidney panels
Message-ID: <0D5CFD0AFEF44CE186C4AEE64934900E@ranteer.local>

o;?hi, all.

Ibve broken yet another set of those flimsy cardboard kidney panels, so
Ibm finally really going to make a set out of wood.

is there any reason not to make them a lot larger so they really cover that
area?

whobs btdt?  is there a pattern/dimensions out there somewhere so I donbt
have to reinvent it?

btw I have speakers.

thanks!

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jan 27 09:59:58 2011
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 11:59:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] kidney panels
In-Reply-To: <0D5CFD0AFEF44CE186C4AEE64934900E@ranteer.local>
References: <0D5CFD0AFEF44CE186C4AEE64934900E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <B65FCAD975E1439CA7D8FE935CA4FDE9@BobPC>

For the interior panel kits that I make and sell, the kidney pads are made 
from 1/8" hardboard. You need a little flex in them which the hardboard 
allows for.

I made up a template that was much larger and really covered the sides of 
the tranny tunnel and then I remembered that the heat falls out of the 
heater bottom  and full pads would block the heat. So I'm pretty using a 
stock template.

If you scroll to the bottom of this page, the last few pictures show the 
kidney pads I make. They're a little different from stock but the reviews 
have been good.

http://ebay.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanelText.htm

Bob


Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
1975 TR6 with:
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs


-----Original Message----- 
From: Dave
Sent: Thursday, January 27, 2011 9:44 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] kidney panels

o;?hi, all.

Ibve broken yet another set of those flimsy cardboard kidney panels, so
Ibm finally really going to make a set out of wood.

is there any reason not to make them a lot larger so they really cover that
area?

whobs btdt?  is there a pattern/dimensions out there somewhere so I donbt
have to reinvent it?

btw I have speakers.

thanks!
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Thu Jan 27 10:18:15 2011
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 09:18:15 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
Message-ID: <152843.80526.qm@web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

You can get a brand new quickrack steering rack (2.5 turns lock to lock) from
Moss for 120.00 right now.   Supposedly harder steel casing then stock.

Never
replaced the steering rack in my 13 years of ownership.   At this price 
seems
like a good thing to do.  Price includes aluminum mounts.

Any downsides to
this?

Thanks,

Bruce Simms
73 TR6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jan 27 10:46:13 2011
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 12:46:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
In-Reply-To: <152843.80526.qm@web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <152843.80526.qm@web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1101271243580.6394@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

When I read that advert from Moss, I though it was a mis-print.

Near as I can tell, there are no downsides other than to say that tehy'll 
probably sell out before I place my order.

:-)

I have a QR in the race car and it is really nice. I love it. And for the 
price it's offered at now, I'd have bought two so I could have a spare.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
Former NER Solo Chair                          |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Jan 27 11:38:37 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 10:38:37 -0800
Subject: [6pack] kidney panels
In-Reply-To: <0D5CFD0AFEF44CE186C4AEE64934900E@ranteer.local>
References: <0D5CFD0AFEF44CE186C4AEE64934900E@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <a06240800c9676b5aa45e@[192.168.2.2]>

First of all it is your car so you can do anything you want.  FWIW I 
simply reinforced mine with strips of hard plastic, held together 
with copious amounts of Gorilla Glue, covered the glue side with wax 
paper, and weighted them down on a flat surface for a couple of days, 
and that solved all my problems ...

Good Luck


>
>
>Ibve broken yet another set of those flimsy cardboard kidney panels, so
>Ibm finally really going to make a set out of wood.
>
>is there any reason not to make them a lot larger so they really cover that
>area?
>
>whobs btdt?  is there a pattern/dimensions out there somewhere so I donbt
>have to reinvent it?
>
>btw I have speakers.
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu Jan 27 13:11:37 2011
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 15:11:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
Message-ID: <000001cbbe5e$675cf660$3616e320$@net>

Bob Lang wrote:

 

>.they'll probably sell out before I place my order.

 

Too late, Bob - they're already on B/O.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

From rcmlndz at aol.com  Thu Jan 27 16:50:55 2011
From: rcmlndz at aol.com (Ricardo Melendez)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 23:50:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] Ricardo Melendez wants to stay in touch on LinkedIn
Message-ID: <718843485.1876769.1296172255450.JavaMail.app@ela4-bed80.prod>

LinkedIn
------------

   
I'd like to add you to my professional network on LinkedIn.

- Ricardo Melendez

Ricardo Melendez
Electrical Engineer Project Manager
United States

Confirm that you know Ricardo Melendez
https://www.linkedin.com/e/-ocjtmm-gjgbht5l-15/isd/2226223520/JcRjFd-8/


 
-- 
(c) 2011, LinkedIn Corporation

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Jan 27 18:00:55 2011
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 27 Jan 2011 20:00:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
In-Reply-To: <000001cbbe5e$675cf660$3616e320$@net>
References: <000001cbbe5e$675cf660$3616e320$@net>
Message-ID: <4D421547.6080605@maine.rr.com>

Indeed, Bob, Moss has them on backorder but they say they'll hold this 
price
if we keep the rack on order until it arrives -- which they expect to be 
in March!
I guess that's OK, it's to cold out there to install anything like this 
right now,
anyway....

Cheers, Spring's on it's way!!

Dave


On 1/27/2011 3:11 PM, Dennis Culligan wrote:
> Bob Lang wrote:
>
>
>
>> .they'll probably sell out before I place my order.
>
>
> Too late, Bob - they're already on B/O.
>
>
>
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion at maine.rr.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Jan 28 00:57:25 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 07:57:25 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
Message-ID: <COL123-DS3111D035097D9B9176EC0F4E10@phx.gbl>

Bruce---Here's what I found after installing my Q-rack.
On the minus side, the steering was quite heavy when turning from slow speeds. I expected it to be about 30% harder to turn, but found it more like 50%. This was when running 28 lb. in the fronts. Increasing it to 40 lb. made it feel more like the original 3.5 turns, lock-to-lock, but of course the ride then became too sensitive to road bumps.
Alternate tire pressure gave some combo between the two.
 
On the plus side, the car became very responsive at speed, but not overly so. The heaviness now made the car feel like the front end was well planted.

I later sold the unit was sold to a well-known auto-xer, who says he doesn't find this  heaviness to be too much. (He likes it)! If he's looking in, he may give you his side, as he purchased it about three months ago. 

For the street, I prefer the 3.5 ratio.

Dick

From apackard68 at att.net  Fri Jan 28 09:45:17 2011
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 08:45:17 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS3111D035097D9B9176EC0F4E10@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS3111D035097D9B9176EC0F4E10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <708098.80215.qm@web83804.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

I'm the buyer to whom Dick is refering.  I'm running 205/70/15 Michelin
Symmetry 
tires at about 36 psi and have not been disappointed with the quick
rack.  I 
have not yet autocrossed with the new set up, but driving around
town, on the 
freeway and even backing out of the driveway, I have not had an
issue with the 
extra effort needed.  I am on the younger end of this group
(42) but I'm also 
using a Moto-lita 14" wheel.  Highway driving is very
responsive and I do like 
the lesser movement needed to whip around an
exit/entrance cloverleaf.  I 
imagine being able to improve my autocross form
by staying at three and nine on 
the wheel with limited hand crossover to get
through tight turns.  


I'm stripping down a GT6+ (actually two) and noticed
the steering racks looking 
exactly like the TR's, but the GT6 lists 4.2 turns
lock to lock.  Could I take 
my 3.5 rack and install it as a GT6 quick ratio
or would I screw with the 
suspension?

Andy
CD6746L
________________________________
From: Sally or Dick Taylor
<tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>;
6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, January 27, 2011 11:57:25 PM
Subject: Re:
[6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack

Bruce---Here's what I found after installing
my Q-rack.
On the minus side, the steering was quite heavy when turning from
slow speeds. I 
expected it to be about 30% harder to turn, but found it more
like 50%. This was 
when running 28 lb. in the fronts. Increasing it to 40 lb.
made it feel more 
like the original 3.5 turns, lock-to-lock, but of course
the ride then became 
too sensitive to road bumps.
Alternate tire pressure
gave some combo between the two.

On the plus side, the car became very
responsive at speed, but not overly so. 
The heaviness now made the car feel
like the front end was well planted.

I later sold the unit was sold to a
well-known auto-xer, who says he doesn't 
find this  heaviness to be too much.
(He likes it)! If he's looking in, he may 
give you his side, as he purchased
it about three months ago. 


For the street, I prefer the 3.5 ratio.

Dick
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Fri Jan 28 12:47:09 2011
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 11:47:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
In-Reply-To: <708098.80215.qm@web83804.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <COL123-DS3111D035097D9B9176EC0F4E10@phx.gbl>
	<708098.80215.qm@web83804.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <833133.52419.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Thanks Andrew & Dick.   Good info to raise tire pressure.   Bob Laing likes
his 
quickrack,  of course he's a real racing guy.  I have mine on backorder
at 
Moss.   Can go back to old  if I don't like it.      I also have Rota 16x7
wheels to put on this season.

Bruce Simms
________________________________
From: Andrew Packard <apackard68 at att.net>
To:
Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>; Bruce Simms
<brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, January 28, 2011
10:45:17 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack


I'm the buyer to
whom Dick is refering.  I'm running 205/70/15 Michelin Symmetry 
tires at
about 36 psi and have not been disappointed with the quick rack.  I 
have not
yet autocrossed with the new set up, but driving around town, on the 
freeway
and even backing out of the driveway, I have not had an issue with the 
extra
effort needed.  I am on the younger end of this group (42) but I'm also 
using
a Moto-lita 14" wheel.  Highway driving is very responsive and I do like 
the
lesser movement needed to whip around an exit/entrance cloverleaf.  I 
imagine
being able to improve my autocross form by staying at three and nine on 
the
wheel with limited hand crossover to get through tight turns.  


I'm
stripping down a GT6+ (actually two) and noticed the steering racks looking
exactly like the TR's, but the GT6 lists 4.2 turns lock to lock.  Could I take
my 3.5 rack and install it as a GT6 quick ratio or would I screw with the
suspension?

Andy
CD6746L




________________________________
From: Sally or
Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>;
6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, January 27, 2011 11:57:25 PM
Subject: Re:
[6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack

Bruce---Here's what I found after installing
my Q-rack.
On the minus side, the steering was quite heavy when turning from
slow speeds. I 
expected it to be about 30% harder to turn, but found it more
like 50%. This was 
when running 28 lb. in the fronts. Increasing it to 40 lb.
made it feel more 
like the original 3.5 turns, lock-to-lock, but of course
the ride then became 
too sensitive to road bumps.
Alternate tire pressure
gave some combo between the two.

On the plus side, the car became very
responsive at speed, but not overly so. 
The heaviness now made the car feel
like the front end was well planted.

I later sold the unit was sold to a
well-known auto-xer, who says he doesn't 
find this  heaviness to be too much.
(He likes it)! If he's looking in, he may 
give you his side, as he purchased
it about three months ago. 


For the street, I prefer the 3.5 ratio.

Dick
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/apackard68 at att.net

From grego at sandesco.com  Fri Jan 28 14:09:11 2011
From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com)
Date: Fri, 28 Jan 2011 21:09:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Moss Sale on Quickrack
Message-ID: <W4858931558119331296248951@webmail59>

 oh heck, the TR6 is supposed to be a "hairy chested sports car" anyway!
Why worry about a little extra steering effort, relish it! :)

Thanks all for the heads up on this.
I have mine on order as well.

Moss should make a donation to 6pack!

Talk about hard steering...my brother and I got a Ford Bronco, back in 71 and that sucker had like 10 turns lock to lock, yet it still was seriously heavy to steer.
Just after ours, they added a power steering option...
Man, getting in and out of parallel parking would work up a sweat, and we were in our late teens and twenties!

-grego

From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au  Fri Jan 28 19:45:41 2011
From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc )
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 13:45:41 +1100
Subject: [6pack] MOSS QUICK RACK?
Message-ID: <!~!UENERkVCMDkAAQACAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAABgAAAAAAAAA1kdp5I+e6kKJgr/1z6WFPMKAAAAQAAAAzoUM964o+0SAJY5OkSMpvwEAAAAA@netspeed.com.au>

Hi,

With all this talk of the Moss quick rack, I seem to recall that there used to
be a 7 tooth rack pinion for
sale, effectively making a "quick rack" over the standard 6 tooth pinion.  As
I was converting a LHD to RHD at
the time, I used a 2500 sedan rack on my '6 (same rack) but I'm not sure if
the standard TR6 rack used a 6 or
7 tooth pinion - the sedan rack was definitely a 6 tooth one?  Can anyone
confirm what it should be and if the
Moss qucik rack uses it (7 tooth) or something different?

Thanks,

John McMaster
71 TR6 PI
76 Dolomite 1850
76 Dolomit Sprint
73 2000 MkII Estate
"Fast is First"

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jan 29 07:15:23 2011
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 29 Jan 2011 09:15:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Bell exhaust
Message-ID: <201101290915.24175.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

I know there are a few of you who have a Bell exhaust system on your 6. There 
is a 6-pack forum member who is thinking about a Bell for his 6. He is looking 
at a stock setup sold by Engle Imports.

I sent him my opinion but he is looking for more. It appears the 6-pack forum 
is not to high on the Bell system. Not sure why but Falcon seems to be the top 
brand there.

So he is looking for opinions from folks who have Bell systems on their 6. If 
you could reply to me directly and let me know if I can forward your email 
address so he can ping you about your experiences with the Bell.

Thanks,

Bob

From dhbrealestate at gmail.com  Mon Jan 31 11:04:09 2011
From: dhbrealestate at gmail.com (Donald Baum)
Date: Mon, 31 Jan 2011 10:04:09 -0800
Subject: [6pack] 1969 TR-6 for sale
Message-ID: <001001cbc171$42f5a090$c8e0e1b0$@com>

Hello fellow enthusiasts:

I wanted to let the list know my beautiful early 1969 California (still has
black plates) TR-6 is up for sale.  CC26779, Triumph Racing Green in
excellent condition.  Please contact me directly if you would like to know
more; car can be seen online at California Motors in San Rafael, CA
(californiamotors.com).

Best,  

Don Baum