From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Aug  3 12:47:07 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 14:47:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hauling out of the Keys
Message-ID: <2A2F9C8616B749ECBDDCD6D102279C88@DCH6RFC1>

Sorry to bomb the list, but does anyone have a contact who would haul a TR6
from Key West to Michigan?  A cousin of my wife's is relocating and is
having difficulty finding anyone to transport his car.  Thanks !

Andrew Uprichard

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Aug  3 10:57:53 2011
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Robert Perry)
Date: Wed, 3 Aug 2011 11:57:53 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack
Message-ID: <19431751.1312390673813.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello Listers,

My TR6 inner tie rods are worn out with over 200,000 miles.  What are the experiences and opinions about the following?

1. replace/ rebuild the inner tie rods

2. Replace the whole steering rack with a new or rebuilt rack

3. install a quick ratio rack

Thanks,

Robert Perry

From TOMKATE at shaw.ca  Wed Aug  3 22:56:18 2011
From: TOMKATE at shaw.ca (TOM MARTIN)
Date: Wed, 03 Aug 2011 21:56:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack
In-Reply-To: <19431751.1312390673813.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <19431751.1312390673813.JavaMail.root@elwamui-ovcar.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <fb7047ad19235.4e39c402@shaw.ca>

Hi Robert
  I've had a quick rack on since 1998, and would highly recommend one, it came with the aluminium blocks, probably 60 to 70k miles since installation, no problems.
 
                       cheers Tom Martin,,,,,,,75TR6 etc

----- Original Message -----
From: Robert Perry <rgperry at earthlink.net>
Date: Wednesday, August 3, 2011 1:12 pm
Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net

> Hello Listers,
> 
> My TR6 inner tie rods are worn out with over 200,000 
> miles.  What are the experiences and opinions about the 
> following?
> 1. replace/ rebuild the inner tie rods
> 
> 2. Replace the whole steering rack with a new or rebuilt rack
> 
> 3. install a quick ratio rack
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Robert Perry
> 
> ________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tomkate at shaw.ca

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Aug  4 00:44:18 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 04 Aug 2011 06:44:18 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack
Message-ID: <COL123-DS1682A17B382A74A47A1377F43D0@phx.gbl>

Robert---There are shims that can be removed to take out some/all of the play at the inner tie rods. Check your favorite repair manual for the proceedure, if necessary.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Perry
Sent: Wednesday, August 3, 2011 9:57 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack

Hello Listers,

My TR6 inner tie rods are worn out with over 200,000 miles.  What are the experiences and opinions about the following?

1. replace/ rebuild the inner tie rods

2. Replace the whole steering rack with a new or rebuilt rack

3. install a quick ratio rack

Thanks,

Robert Perry

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Fri Aug  5 12:50:26 2011
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 11:50:26 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Reconditioned Gauges Not Behaving
Message-ID: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F41153F9930@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>

Many thanks to all of you who gave me feedback on my problem.   It took me a
couple of weeks to get back to the car (finishing up a kitchen remodel for my
lovely wife).

Bob, I had to shake my head at your advice to buy Dan Masters' Electrical
Handbook.  I have one.  For some reason I had trouble locating the word GAUGES
boldly printed in the table of contents.  Thanks for guiding me back there.

My fuel gauge had a ground problem that was easily fixed.  The ammeter seems
to have a calibration issue.  Morris at West Valley Instruments is going to
fix that for me.  So all should be well now.  The reconditioned gauges mounted
to my new dash from Prestige Autowood is a thing of beauty.  My wife was
impressed as well (kitchen probably helped).

Questions:

Have TR6s always had an alternator or did they first come with a generator?

Have any of you switched over to a volt meter?

Thanks again for the feedback.  This is a great group.

Mike
Corvallis, OR

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Aug  6 12:57:26 2011
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 06 Aug 2011 14:57:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ammeters - Voltmeters
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1312653602.28339.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.7.1312653602.28339.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAJL2xS8Qce5OmzH6VzgCDbfCgAAAEAAAAF8E0HqRdelJnr/8Ajh/BOIBAAAAAA==@optonline.net>

All alternators in the 6's with ammeters until the '73's came out with
voltmeters.
Regards,
Bob 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of 6pack-request at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, August 06, 2011 2:00 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 53

Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
	6pack at autox.team.net

To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
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or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
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When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than
"Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."


Today's Topics:

   1. Re: Reconditioned Gauges Not Behaving (Corbitt, Michael)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2011 11:50:26 -0700
From: "Corbitt, Michael" <Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Reconditioned Gauges Not Behaving
Message-ID:
	
<0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F41153F9930 at EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Many thanks to all of you who gave me feedback on my problem.   It took me a
couple of weeks to get back to the car (finishing up a kitchen remodel for
my lovely wife).

Bob, I had to shake my head at your advice to buy Dan Masters' Electrical
Handbook.  I have one.  For some reason I had trouble locating the word
GAUGES boldly printed in the table of contents.  Thanks for guiding me back
there.

My fuel gauge had a ground problem that was easily fixed.  The ammeter seems
to have a calibration issue.  Morris at West Valley Instruments is going to
fix that for me.  So all should be well now.  The reconditioned gauges
mounted to my new dash from Prestige Autowood is a thing of beauty.  My wife
was impressed as well (kitchen probably helped).

Questions:

Have TR6s always had an alternator or did they first come with a generator?

Have any of you switched over to a volt meter?

Thanks again for the feedback.  This is a great group.

Mike
Corvallis, OR


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
6pack mailing list
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 53
************************************

From bcrouter at cicorp.sk.ca  Sun Aug  7 09:50:32 2011
From: bcrouter at cicorp.sk.ca (Crouter, Bruce CIC)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 09:50:32 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Timing (is everything))
Message-ID: <9E3C7D5396FFDE4BADDBA18FA8BF7E40047FB60B8B@vsr-exch07.cicorp.sk.ca>

I hope you are all enjoying the weekend, I have a confusing situation that I
thought someone smarter than me might be able to help me with.

I have a very loyal 75 TR6.  The vacuum system was cut up many years ago by
the PO.  It has a retard unit that I hooked up to a port under the intake
manifold that provides high vacuum at low rpm.  When I set the timing the big
blue book tells me to set it at 4 ATDC with the retard unit disconnected.
When I hook the retard unit back up the timing retards to something around 12
ATDC and the car (as you would expect) runs terribly until high RPMs are
reached.  To compensate I set the timing at 10 BTDC with the retard unit
connected and all seems right.  Do I have the retard unit hooked up to the
wrong vacuum port or is there some real obvious thing I am missing here.  Not
a serious problem, I just thought someone may have some insight.  Thanks in
advance.

Bruce Crouter
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sun Aug  7 10:32:36 2011
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 16:32:36 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Timing (is everything))
Message-ID: <464683466-1312734619-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1973537260-@b1.c20.bise6.blackberry>

Bruce,

My retard unit hooks to a port underneath the rear carb. But I always use a vacuum gauge on the manifold to set the timing to around 18 or 19".  I find that timing marks are only reliable with new sprockets, chains and dampers.  

Lots of info on this on 6-PACK with pictures and links to sites that explain it better.  Do yourself a favor and go online and see.  

Lou
72 Pimento

------Original Message------
From: Crouter, Bruce CIC
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] Timing (is everything))
Sent: Aug 7, 2011 10:50 AM

I hope you are all enjoying the weekend, I have a confusing situation that I
thought someone smarter than me might be able to help me with.

I have a very loyal 75 TR6.  The vacuum system was cut up many years ago by
the PO.  It has a retard unit that I hooked up to a port under the intake
manifold that provides high vacuum at low rpm.  When I set the timing the big
blue book tells me to set it at 4 ATDC with the retard unit disconnected.
When I hook the retard unit back up the timing retards to something around 12
ATDC and the car (as you would expect) runs terribly until high RPMs are
reached.  To compensate I set the timing at 10 BTDC with the retard unit
connected and all seems right.  Do I have the retard unit hooked up to the
wrong vacuum port or is there some real obvious thing I am missing here.  Not
a serious problem, I just thought someone may have some insight.  Thanks in
advance.

Bruce Crouter
Regina, Saskatchewan, Canada

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From sullij at att.net  Sun Aug  7 16:06:43 2011
From: sullij at att.net (sullij at att.net)
Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2011 15:06:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] howdy
Message-ID: <1312754803.52326.yint-ygo-j2me@web180503.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

hey!

 Look what I found  http://softbolnoreste.com/newtabs.html

Sent using BlackBerry

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Mon Aug  8 15:21:49 2011
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 17:21:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
Message-ID: <5EF574D1-3621-45B3-A48D-4B04EA4D8692@nc.rr.com>

Just thought y'all'd like to know that a '74 TR-6 can, indeed, do a
cross-country trip (NC to Seattle to LA and back) of 9300 miles, 400-600
miles/day, 110-deg sun-baked, 75-mpg, short top-down thunderstorms, tortuous
corners, city traffic and a wall-to-wall grin (just a day after splicing the
smoldering main harness under the clutch reservoir after drilling through it
installing wheel-well guards, no it wasn't me).
Thanks to those who've answered my questions these past few years.
You weren't all wrong, evidently.

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Aug  8 15:48:33 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 17:48:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
In-Reply-To: <5EF574D1-3621-45B3-A48D-4B04EA4D8692@nc.rr.com>
References: <5EF574D1-3621-45B3-A48D-4B04EA4D8692@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <2BB63F04147A4075BD10758836ADBAEC@DCH6RFC1>

Congratulations, but 75-mpg ???

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Douglas Morris
Sent: Monday, August 08, 2011 5:22 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] It can be done

Just thought y'all'd like to know that a '74 TR-6 can, indeed, do a
cross-country trip (NC to Seattle to LA and back) of 9300 miles, 400-600
miles/day, 110-deg sun-baked, 75-mpg, short top-down thunderstorms, tortuous
corners, city traffic and a wall-to-wall grin (just a day after splicing the
smoldering main harness under the clutch reservoir after drilling through it
installing wheel-well guards, no it wasn't me).
Thanks to those who've answered my questions these past few years.
You weren't all wrong, evidently.

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Mon Aug  8 18:09:15 2011
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Mon, 8 Aug 2011 20:09:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
Message-ID: <52611552-08A8-4089-8FC7-E47E7D70C375@nc.rr.com>

Okay, not 75 mpg ... let's try 75 mph.

Doug Morris

From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Aug  9 07:34:05 2011
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 08:34:05 -0500
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
In-Reply-To: <52611552-08A8-4089-8FC7-E47E7D70C375@nc.rr.com>
References: <52611552-08A8-4089-8FC7-E47E7D70C375@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <5332840d9517f90b13041b3dc7defe28.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Just curious, approx. what mpg did you actually get? My '74 is running well,
but I can't seem to get get better than 18mpg, something's not right.


> Okay, not 75 mpg ... let's try 75 mph.

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Aug  9 12:11:56 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 09 Aug 2011 18:11:56 GMT
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
Message-ID: <COL123-DS9849EAED22BC1B774E276F4200@phx.gbl>

Lee---This topic pops up every now and then, and there's so many variables that contribute. Here's a few:
Road congestion.
Top gear ratio (4th only, O.D or 5 speed)
Average speed during mileage check.
State of engine tune.
Additives in the pump gas being burned.

Here in the stop-and-go Los Angeles area, I'm doing good to get 15mpg in town. If I behave, this can go up to 26 on the highway. (5 speed) On a recent trip to Idaho and back, I kept a close check and for the 2,800 miles, used 111 gallons of gas. A shade over 25mpg. (and less than a quart of 20W-50) 

As they say, YMMV.

Dick
'73 




-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Daniels
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 6:34 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be done

Just curious, approx. what mpg did you actually get? My '74 is running well,
but I can't seem to get get better than 18mpg, something's not right.


> Okay, not 75 mpg ... let's try 75 mph.

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Tue Aug  9 13:41:24 2011
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:41:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] It can be don
Message-ID: <F5E4F95A-A57A-493F-990A-FF14C56C59D3@nc.rr.com>

Wellp ... I got about 25+mpg at freeway speeds (70-75-ish) and about 30mpg at
backroads speeds (50-60-ish). My usual hotfootin' around home gets about
23-25mpg. All mileage is top-down. I shaved the head .090" to get some
compression back, premium gas, added modern air filters and electronic
ignition, and removed some thermal anti-pollution vacuum hoses, but
mechanically the rest is pretty standard. Not sure what it should be, but I'm
not interested in optimizing mileage. I found that proper wheel alignment
(front and rear) with 205 tires makes a real gas-mileage difference!
Runnin' pretty well, now, so I'm welding everything in place.

From rsh17 at msn.com  Tue Aug  9 14:50:46 2011
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:50:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] It can be don
In-Reply-To: <F5E4F95A-A57A-493F-990A-FF14C56C59D3@nc.rr.com>
References: <F5E4F95A-A57A-493F-990A-FF14C56C59D3@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W23FF7C5E36A7C9015EB4C1AA200@phx.gbl>

yeah that sounds about right. I've gotten 29 mpg at highway speeds, stock type
stainless exhaust (single exhaust 1969 TR6))Piper 270 cam, 9.5:1 compression,
three ZS carbs, A type OD higher reduction than stock. my in town mileage is a
little worse than yours.

Richard Seaton




> From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com
> Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:41:24 -0400
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be don
>
> Wellp ... I got about 25+mpg at freeway speeds (70-75-ish) and about 30mpg
at
> backroads speeds (50-60-ish). My usual hotfootin' around home gets about
> 23-25mpg. All mileage is top-down. I shaved the head .090" to get some
> compression back, premium gas, added modern air filters and electronic
> ignition, and removed some thermal anti-pollution vacuum hoses, but
> mechanically the rest is pretty standard. Not sure what it should be, but
I'm
> not interested in optimizing mileage. I found that proper wheel alignment
> (front and rear) with 205 tires makes a real gas-mileage difference!
> Runnin' pretty well, now, so I'm welding everything in place.
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rsh17 at msn.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Aug  9 15:11:51 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:11:51 -0600
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS9849EAED22BC1B774E276F4200@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS9849EAED22BC1B774E276F4200@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <0224B5A0-F865-4145-958B-8411F55034A0@comcast.net>

With the OD I can get 33 mpg if I do 68 mph consistently (and I can  
with my cruise control).

I get 28-30 mpg if I'm doing 78 mph.

Those are for road trips.  In town I probably get closer to 22-23  
mpg.  Which is better than any other car I own.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 9, 2011, at 12:11 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Lee---This topic pops up every now and then, and there's so many  
> variables that contribute. Here's a few:
> Road congestion.
> Top gear ratio (4th only, O.D or 5 speed)
> Average speed during mileage check.
> State of engine tune.
> Additives in the pump gas being burned.
>
> Here in the stop-and-go Los Angeles area, I'm doing good to get  
> 15mpg in town. If I behave, this can go up to 26 on the highway. (5  
> speed) On a recent trip to Idaho and back, I kept a close check and  
> for the 2,800 miles, used 111 gallons of gas. A shade over 25mpg.  
> (and less than a quart of 20W-50)
>
> As they say, YMMV.
>
> Dick
> '73
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Lee Daniels
> Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 6:34 AM
> To: 6pack
> Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be done
>
> Just curious, approx. what mpg did you actually get? My '74 is  
> running well,
> but I can't seem to get get better than 18mpg, something's not right.
>
>
>> Okay, not 75 mpg ... let's try 75 mph.
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Aug  9 15:46:19 2011
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 21:46:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] It can be don
In-Reply-To: <F5E4F95A-A57A-493F-990A-FF14C56C59D3@nc.rr.com>
References: <F5E4F95A-A57A-493F-990A-FF14C56C59D3@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W29899731069D2AFCB29F888E200@phx.gbl>

Doug said "All mileage is top-down. I shaved the head .090" to get some..."

I read that three times thinking you were saying something shaving your head,
the one with hair and ears, to improve gas mileage with the top down. (haha)
Then I figured out you were talking about the engine.

Sloane :)
69-Six.



> From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com
> Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 15:41:24 -0400
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be don
>
> Wellp ... I got about 25+mpg at freeway speeds (70-75-ish) and about 30mpg
at
> backroads speeds (50-60-ish). My usual hotfootin' around home gets about
> 23-25mpg. All mileage is top-down. I shaved the head .090" to get some
> compression back, premium gas, added modern air filters and electronic

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Tue Aug  9 13:06:23 2011
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 12:06:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS9849EAED22BC1B774E276F4200@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1312916783.89796.YahooMailClassic@web160714.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

I know I'm no longer part of the hobby, but this discussion made me giggle.
 
I have an old TR6 ad that bragged about fuel economy of 16 MPG in town and 21
on the highway. Gotta remember these are archaic engines with so-so fuel and
ignition systems. The best I ever did economy-wise (not that I ever worried
about it) was maybe 17 MPG. If we want fuel economy we would be driving around
in old 3 cylinder Chevy Sprints. (So slow that it you go buy bananas in one of
these, make sure they're really green.)
 
It would be interesting to know what mileage the folks with TBI motors get.
 
Missing the hobby.
Jim

--- On Tue, 8/9/11, Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net> wrote:


From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be done
To: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>, "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 9, 2011, 1:11 PM


Lee---This topic pops up every now and then, and there's so many variables
that contribute. Here's a few:
Road congestion.
Top gear ratio (4th only, O.D or 5 speed)
Average speed during mileage check.
State of engine tune.
Additives in the pump gas being burned.

Here in the stop-and-go Los Angeles area, I'm doing good to get 15mpg in town.
If I behave, this can go up to 26 on the highway. (5 speed) On a recent trip
to Idaho and back, I kept a close check and for the 2,800 miles, used 111
gallons of gas. A shade over 25mpg. (and less than a quart of 20W-50)

As they say, YMMV.

Dick
'73




-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Daniels
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 6:34 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be done

Just curious, approx. what mpg did you actually get? My '74 is running well,
but I can't seem to get get better than 18mpg, something's not right.


> Okay, not 75 mpg ... let's try 75 mph.

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From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Tue Aug  9 19:24:06 2011
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Tue, 9 Aug 2011 21:24:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] It can be done
In-Reply-To: <1312916783.89796.YahooMailClassic@web160714.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <COL123-DS9849EAED22BC1B774E276F4200@phx.gbl>,
	<1312916783.89796.YahooMailClassic@web160714.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B014454A0F295@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

My TR-6 (74 1/2) has always given around 20 mpg around town, and 26 on the
highway.  Of course, the faster one goes, the more the mileage will drop on
the highway.  There is nothing special about the setup on mine, except I
installed an electronic ignition system some time ago.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jim Jones [jimjcmo at yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, August 09, 2011 3:06 PM
To: Lee Daniels; 6pack; Sally or Dick Taylor
Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be done

I know I'm no longer part of the hobby, but this discussion made me giggle.

I have an old TR6 ad that bragged about fuel economy of 16 MPG in town and 21
on the highway. Gotta remember these are archaic engines with so-so fuel and
ignition systems. The best I ever did economy-wise (not that I ever worried
about it) was maybe 17 MPG. If we want fuel economy we would be driving
around
in old 3 cylinder Chevy Sprints. (So slow that it you go buy bananas in one
of
these, make sure they're really green.)

It would be interesting to know what mileage the folks with TBI motors get.

Missing the hobby.
Jim

--- On Tue, 8/9/11, Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net> wrote:


From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be done
To: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>, "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Date: Tuesday, August 9, 2011, 1:11 PM


Lee---This topic pops up every now and then, and there's so many variables
that contribute. Here's a few:
Road congestion.
Top gear ratio (4th only, O.D or 5 speed)
Average speed during mileage check.
State of engine tune.
Additives in the pump gas being burned.

Here in the stop-and-go Los Angeles area, I'm doing good to get 15mpg in
town.
If I behave, this can go up to 26 on the highway. (5 speed) On a recent trip
to Idaho and back, I kept a close check and for the 2,800 miles, used 111
gallons of gas. A shade over 25mpg. (and less than a quart of 20W-50)

As they say, YMMV.

Dick
'73




-----Original Message-----
From: Lee Daniels
Sent: Tuesday, August 9, 2011 6:34 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] It can be done

Just curious, approx. what mpg did you actually get? My '74 is running well,
but I can't seem to get get better than 18mpg, something's not right.


> Okay, not 75 mpg ... let's try 75 mph.

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From auprichard at uprichard.net  Thu Aug 11 16:04:06 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Thu, 11 Aug 2011 18:04:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness
Message-ID: <622BFEBDEAC94DD085046A27354C9A7A@DCH6RFC1>

Before I fork out over $500 on a new wiring harness from Moss, I wondered if
anyone could point me in a less expensive direction.

 

Andrew Uprichard

From jrurhh at aol.com  Fri Aug 12 13:41:40 2011
From: jrurhh at aol.com (jrurhh at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Aug 2011 15:41:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wiring
Message-ID: <D8E4774E-2BEE-4A41-89F7-C6F47B268D97@aol.com>

Look up Britishwiring.com got a TR6 harness from them and the quality was
great.

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat Aug 13 05:56:22 2011
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 04:56:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <622BFEBDEAC94DD085046A27354C9A7A@DCH6RFC1>
References: <622BFEBDEAC94DD085046A27354C9A7A@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <1313236582.29163.YahooMailNeo@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Andrew
 
I know this will not entirily answer your question. Dan Masters old
company, I believe Advance Wiring, may be able to help you out with one that
is better then stock. I believe the new owner is Steve.  Dale

From: Andrew
Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday,
August 11, 2011 6:04 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness

Before I fork
out over $500 on a new wiring harness from Moss, I wondered if
anyone could
point me in a less expensive direction.



Andrew Uprichard
________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

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http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Aug 13 06:31:00 2011
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 05:31:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <1313236582.29163.YahooMailNeo@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1313238660.66263.YahooMailClassic@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

have you looked at www.britishwiring.com?  

From: Andrew
Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday,
August 11, 2011 6:04 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness

Before I fork
out over $500 on a new wiring harness from Moss, I wondered if
anyone could
point me in a less expensive direction.



Andrew Uprichard

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sat Aug 13 09:36:13 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 11:36:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness
In-Reply-To: <1313238660.66263.YahooMailClassic@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1313236582.29163.YahooMailNeo@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<1313238660.66263.YahooMailClassic@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9F02A9236BF142EABE5ED95410EAFDEC@DCH6RFC1>

Thanks to all who replied, but especially Marv Gruber, who agreed to part
with his never-used harness for a very reasonable price.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Saturday, August 13, 2011 8:31 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness

have you looked at www.britishwiring.com?  

From: Andrew
Uprichard <auprichard at uprichard.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thursday,
August 11, 2011 6:04 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 wiring harness

Before I fork
out over $500 on a new wiring harness from Moss, I wondered if
anyone could
point me in a less expensive direction.



Andrew Uprichard

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net

From martin at nortek-inc.com  Sat Aug 13 17:21:26 2011
From: martin at nortek-inc.com (martin at nortek-inc.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Aug 2011 19:21:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] AUTO: Ted Martin is out of office.
Message-ID: <OF4E7D1C75.10DB5273-ON852578EB.00804E5F-852578EB.00804E60@nortek-inc.com>

I will be out of the office starting 12/13/2010 and will not return until
12/14/2010

I am currently out of the office and will return on Monday, August 22nd.
If you can not wait until my return, please contact Misty Nunes.



Note: This is an automated response to your message  "6pack Digest, Vol 3,
Issue 59" sent on 8/13/2011 2:00:02 PM.

This is the only notification you will receive while this person is away.


______________________________________________________________________
This email has been scanned by the MessageLabs Email Security System.
For more information please visit http://www.messagelabs.com/email 
______________________________________________________________________

From emanteno at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 06:16:54 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 07:16:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Weird Brake issue
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>

My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I have been
on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just like the
dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't occur,
only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen after a
hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is

new brake rotors
freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
new ss brake lines
new aluminum drums
new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
new rear shoes
new master cylinder
rebuilt servo
fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible

Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are tight. I am
not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings in the
PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system pressure from
under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just before
leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I removed
the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the car stops
great.

Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.

Thanks,

Irv Korey
74 TR6CF22767U
Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Aug 15 06:58:48 2011
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 08:58:48 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Weird Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CE29623523339C-150C-195F6@webmail-m162.sysops.aol.com>

Irv,

long shot, but.....

Uncle Jack discovered a cap missing a vent hole hole on his new master
cylinder.

this was a long time ago, but maybe there is another one.

we are McCook, Ne, heading for the mountains.

Pioneer Village yesterday....3rd time for me 1st for Jan.

Joe A






-----Original Message-----
From: Irv Korey <emanteno at comcast.net>
To: TRiumphs <triumphs at Autox.Team.Net>; 6Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Aug 15, 2011 7:28 am
Subject: [6pack] Weird Brake issue


My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I have been
on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just like the
dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't occur,
only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen after a
hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is

new brake rotors
freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
new ss brake lines
new aluminum drums
new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
new rear shoes
new master cylinder
rebuilt servo
fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible

Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are tight. I am
not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings in the
PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system pressure from
under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just before
leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I removed
the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the car stops
great.

Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.

Thanks,

Irv Korey
74 TR6CF22767U
Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)

________________________________________


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From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 08:18:48 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 08:18:48 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Weird Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <AA786C50-96FC-4D88-90BF-6CED492FBAD9@comcast.net>

Irv,

I have o-rings for the PWDA come by my house and we'll fix it or I can  
bring the o-rings to Breckenridge and we'll fix it there.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 15, 2011, at 6:16 AM, Irv Korey wrote:

> My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I  
> have been
> on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just  
> like the
> dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't  
> occur,
> only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen  
> after a
> hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is
>
> new brake rotors
> freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
> Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
> new ss brake lines
> new aluminum drums
> new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
> new rear shoes
> new master cylinder
> rebuilt servo
> fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible
>
> Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are  
> tight. I am
> not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings  
> in the
> PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system  
> pressure from
> under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just  
> before
> leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I  
> removed
> the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the  
> car stops
> great.
>
> Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Aug 15 10:38:52 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 15 Aug 2011 10:38:52 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Weird Brake issue
In-Reply-To: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
References: <CAFWFMyiGdgfHJ+EZMtS+VH+T6C7C=zSHkXz1DNjD-79VP2Uc+g@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <218EA57C-4D94-43FA-952C-FF0F30ACA11B@comcast.net>

Irv,

Another thought..maybe you have a leak in the booster diaphram that  
shows up once it heats up the engine bay.  Try a bolt in the vacuum  
hose going to the booster.  You'll still have brakes, just not  
"boosted" brakes.

Had a booster go out pulling into the VTR parking lot in Portland,  
Oregon for VTR2000, but someone pointed out that I still had brakes so  
I autocrossed it and drove 1400 miles home and didn't replace it for  
about a year.  I kinda got used to driving it that way and almost  
thought about disconnecting the vac line and plugging it to autocross  
because I felt like I had a better feel for pedal pressure when  
braking for cones.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Aug 15, 2011, at 6:16 AM, Irv Korey wrote:

> My car, a 74 TR6, is experiencing a very long brake pedal after I  
> have been
> on the road for a while. The pedal goes almost to the floor, just  
> like the
> dreaded brake pad knockback. When I drive around town, this doesn't  
> occur,
> only on a road trip (I am on my way to VTR). This doesn't happen  
> after a
> hard corner, just some highway cruising. My current setup is
>
> new brake rotors
> freshly rebuilt Toyota calipers with new pads
> Uncle Jack front stub axle, wheel bearing kit, front hubs
> new ss brake lines
> new aluminum drums
> new 7/8" Morgan rear wheel cylinders
> new rear shoes
> new master cylinder
> rebuilt servo
> fresh DOT5 fluid, bled twice, no air visible
>
> Using the grab the wheels and shake test, the wheel bearings are  
> tight. I am
> not losing any brake fluid. I was, and discovered that the o-rings  
> in the
> PDWA were bad, and was losing fluid and I imagine brake system  
> pressure from
> under the switch. I just discovered the source of that leak just  
> before
> leaving for VTR, and didn't have time to replace the o-rings so I  
> removed
> the switch and put a plug in its place. Other than this issue, the  
> car stops
> great.
>
> Any thoughts/ideas/suggestions gratefully accepted.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL (now in Council Bluffs, IA)
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From janah at att.net  Tue Aug 16 20:09:00 2011
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Tue, 16 Aug 2011 22:09:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
Message-ID: <C621B8280A00477F94627762C44887B1@p4home>

Hi All-

Slow progress on the car. I am installing the Ratco coil shock and over the
diff anti sway bar. Yes this is a resto-mod and it is going on a car that is
going to be pretty much stock.

Anyway I have hogged out the hole in the trailing arm to fit the shock and now
it is time to bolt it up and test for travel and clearance.

I am planning to use hard rubber bushings in the trailing arms and the stock
traling arm mounts. I will re-use the stock bolts for the fit-up and testing
but I am thiking of replacing the trailing arm piviot bolts with grade 8
bolts. Can anyone think of why this would not be a good idea?

John Cyg
CC52927LO

From emanteno at comcast.net  Tue Aug 16 23:48:59 2011
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 00:48:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Weird Brake Issue - Resolved
Message-ID: <CAFWFMyhSZKmqU-pfbL_C-NUwLa69nsfdC_Jgd_nmk38ti2VcBA@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to ALL who sent suggestions/tips/HELP.

The problem turned out to be brake pad knock back. I took my car to a
"professional mechanic" to do some stuff including installing
the Uncle Jack front hub stiffening kit. The kit was installed incorrectly,
and the front bearings were much too loose. Not anymore.

Thanks, ALL.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL (arriving at VTR in Breckinridge tomorrow)

From janah at att.net  Wed Aug 17 05:42:57 2011
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:42:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
References: <COL123-DS281004D209C87C237E79DF4280@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <261B58B366AF401DBDE0F762CFAAC6FE@p4home>

Thanks Dick-

It is a long story but the cliff notes version is:

a.) I thought that since I am doing a frame off I might as well replace all 
this hardware. I don't know how old or fatigued it is. There is a little 
corrosion/pitting on it.

b.) I ordered from TRF and their blue catalog and the bolts that came are 4" 
not 3-1/2'. I think this is a part number misprint in their book.  This is 
really irritating as it is the second time I have run into this. It is not 
as though this book is new.  I think they should have corrected it by now.

c.) By the time I fill out my little form and send it back and pay shipping 
both ways for a part that was wrong and then get the new part in, the 
Fastenal store down the street starts to look pretty good.

My one concern about the grade 8 bolt is that I am hoping it is not so hard 
they wear my suspension brackets.

Thanks Again
John Cyg

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: "John Cyganowski" <janah at att.net>
Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 2:33 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts


> John---It's a relatively inexpensive move to the grade 8, but probably 
> unnecessary. The stock bolts are plenty stout! And no wear should occur 
> here anyway.
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Cyganowski
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:09 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
>
> Hi All-
>
> Slow progress on the car. I am installing the Ratco coil shock and over 
> the
> diff anti sway bar. Yes this is a resto-mod and it is going on a car that 
> is
> going to be pretty much stock.
>
> Anyway I have hogged out the hole in the trailing arm to fit the shock and 
> now
> it is time to bolt it up and test for travel and clearance.
>
> I am planning to use hard rubber bushings in the trailing arms and the 
> stock
> traling arm mounts. I will re-use the stock bolts for the fit-up and 
> testing
> but I am thiking of replacing the trailing arm piviot bolts with grade 8
> bolts. Can anyone think of why this would not be a good idea?
>
> John Cyg
> CC52927LO
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Wed Aug 17 06:02:45 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 08:02:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
In-Reply-To: <C621B8280A00477F94627762C44887B1@p4home>
References: <C621B8280A00477F94627762C44887B1@p4home>
Message-ID: <EFBC3E3B6EC64078B2458C6E29440929@DCH6RFC1>

For better performance, I'd drop the rubber and go with a sealed ball
bearing trailing arm conversion.  This also allows for the suspension to be
correctly four-wheel aligned - something you cannot do on a rubber or
poly-bushed IRS Triumph.

Andrew Uprichard

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Cyganowski
Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 10:09 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts

Hi All-

Slow progress on the car. I am installing the Ratco coil shock and over the
diff anti sway bar. Yes this is a resto-mod and it is going on a car that is
going to be pretty much stock.

Anyway I have hogged out the hole in the trailing arm to fit the shock and
now
it is time to bolt it up and test for travel and clearance.

I am planning to use hard rubber bushings in the trailing arms and the stock
traling arm mounts. I will re-use the stock bolts for the fit-up and testing
but I am thiking of replacing the trailing arm piviot bolts with grade 8
bolts. Can anyone think of why this would not be a good idea?

John Cyg
CC52927LO

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed Aug 17 06:35:40 2011
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 05:35:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Anyone know what's up?
Message-ID: <1313584540.96642.YahooMailNeo@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have been on the digest mode of both the Triumphs and 6-Pack list for many
years.  I just open my one daily e-mail of each one and ALL messages are right
there to read.  Recently the Triumphs list has each individual message listed
as an attachment that has to then be downloaded and opened to view.  Very
frustrating.  Not so on the 6-pack list (for what that's worth nowadays) -
everything there is normal.
 
What's up with that?
 
Joe Merone
CF18928
5-speed 

From rsh17 at msn.com  Wed Aug 17 06:38:11 2011
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 07:38:11 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
In-Reply-To: <EFBC3E3B6EC64078B2458C6E29440929@DCH6RFC1>
References: <C621B8280A00477F94627762C44887B1@p4home>,
	<EFBC3E3B6EC64078B2458C6E29440929@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W3075C7E5C9EC46723DA77AA280@phx.gbl>

Go with Richard Good's nylatron, I've had issues w/ one of the urethane
bushing kits offered as the bolts hole at the TA elongated after a short
 time, less than 200 MILES!


Richard Seaton




> From: auprichard at uprichard.net
> To: janah at att.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 08:02:45 -0400
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
>
> For better performance, I'd drop the rubber and go with a sealed ball
> bearing trailing arm conversion.  This also allows for the suspension to be
> correctly four-wheel aligned - something you cannot do on a rubber or
> poly-bushed IRS Triumph.
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of John Cyganowski
> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 10:09 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
>
> Hi All-
>
> Slow progress on the car. I am installing the Ratco coil shock and over the
> diff anti sway bar. Yes this is a resto-mod and it is going on a car that
is
> going to be pretty much stock.
>
> Anyway I have hogged out the hole in the trailing arm to fit the shock and
> now
> it is time to bolt it up and test for travel and clearance.
>
> I am planning to use hard rubber bushings in the trailing arms and the
stock
> traling arm mounts. I will re-use the stock bolts for the fit-up and
testing
> but I am thiking of replacing the trailing arm piviot bolts with grade 8
> bolts. Can anyone think of why this would not be a good idea?
>
> John Cyg
> CC52927LO
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/auprichard at uprichard.net
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rsh17 at msn.com

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 17 12:19:24 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 11:19:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
In-Reply-To: <261B58B366AF401DBDE0F762CFAAC6FE@p4home>
References: <COL123-DS281004D209C87C237E79DF4280@phx.gbl>
	<261B58B366AF401DBDE0F762CFAAC6FE@p4home>
Message-ID: <AEFED03C-6A1B-4C25-9691-53CF9157062D@comcast.net>

I have found that if you want the best and most accurate fitting bolts you
should shop at McMasters.com .   They have every bolt, nut, imaginable and in
many different styles ... finally you can buy 50 bolts for the price of one
from the Big Three ...
			Use this link to at least check them out ... http://www.mcmaster.com/#

BTW they ship quick too.  I ordered allen head bolts to attach my toyota
transmission, got a box of 50 for $20 ... sent the leftover to Herman, he is
still doing me favors.'





On Aug 17, 2011, at 4:42 AM, John Cyganowski wrote:

> Thanks Dick-
>
> It is a long story but the cliff notes version is:
>
> a.) I thought that since I am doing a frame off I might as well replace all
this hardware. I don't know how old or fatigued it is. There is a little
corrosion/pitting on it.
>
> b.) I ordered from TRF and their blue catalog and the bolts that came are 4"
not 3-1/2'. I think this is a part number misprint in their book.  This is
really irritating as it is the second time I have run into this. It is not as
though this book is new.  I think they should have corrected it by now.
>
> c.) By the time I fill out my little form and send it back and pay shipping
both ways for a part that was wrong and then get the new part in, the Fastenal
store down the street starts to look pretty good.
>
> My one concern about the grade 8 bolt is that I am hoping it is not so hard
they wear my suspension brackets.
>
> Thanks Again
> John Cyg
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor"
<tr6taylor at webtv.net>
> To: "John Cyganowski" <janah at att.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, August 17, 2011 2:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
>
>
>> John---It's a relatively inexpensive move to the grade 8, but probably
unnecessary. The stock bolts are plenty stout! And no wear should occur here
anyway.
>>
>> Dick
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: John Cyganowski
>> Sent: Tuesday, August 16, 2011 7:09 PM
>> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
>>
>> Hi All-
>>
>> Slow progress on the car. I am installing the Ratco coil shock and over
the
>> diff anti sway bar. Yes this is a resto-mod and it is going on a car that
is
>> going to be pretty much stock.
>>
>> Anyway I have hogged out the hole in the trailing arm to fit the shock and
now
>> it is time to bolt it up and test for travel and clearance.
>>
>> I am planning to use hard rubber bushings in the trailing arms and the
stock
>> traling arm mounts. I will re-use the stock bolts for the fit-up and
testing
>> but I am thiking of replacing the trailing arm piviot bolts with grade 8
>> bolts. Can anyone think of why this would not be a good idea?
>>
>> John Cyg
>> CC52927LO
>>
>> ________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/anabil007 at comcast.net
>
>

"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From mark at bradakis.com  Wed Aug 17 20:57:17 2011
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Wed, 17 Aug 2011 20:57:17 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Anyone know what's up?
In-Reply-To: <1313584540.96642.YahooMailNeo@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <1313584540.96642.YahooMailNeo@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4E4C7F8D.3040304@bradakis.com>

As far as I know nothing has changed in the mailman server on this end 
lately.
But there have been some oddities as the old server slowly dies.  I'll work
on getting the new server, software and such on line as soon as I can.

Right now I have to deal with the effects of some spammer using a team.net
address in the 'From: ' line of some spam.  I've got about 75,000 emails 
from
this morning to sift through.  What fun.  Hopefully some simple command line
scripts will make it easier.

mjb.

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Aug 19 11:23:26 2011
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 10:23:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Anyone going to the Triathlon?
Message-ID: <1313774606.7893.YahooMailNeo@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

We're off tomorrow for a week in Maine, culminating with The British Marque
Triathlon beginning Friday the 26th in Northport.  Anyone from the list going
to be there?  
 
Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CR18928U
5-speed

From janah at att.net  Fri Aug 19 16:44:31 2011
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Fri, 19 Aug 2011 18:44:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question
Message-ID: <1165DB08D8604E0D8BF34EB9184F4828@p4home>

Hi All-

Okay I have another question regarding the rear suspension.

I believe the shims are for castor adjustment?

On my passenger side, I had 4 shims on the inner bracket and 3 shims on the 
outer bracket.

Would this not be the same as having 1 shim on the inner bracket and 0 shims 
on the outer bracket?

What am I missing.

Nelson's tome on Buckeye is helpful, but it is dense and it will take me a 
while to get my mind wrapped around this one.

Thanks.
John Cyg
CC52927LO
70 Damson

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Aug 19 18:30:55 2011
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 00:30:55 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question
Message-ID: <COL123-DS7E33A3A0ABDBCF32832ACF42D0@phx.gbl>

John---These shims control the wheel toe. Adding shims to the outside bracket increases toe OUT, as would decreasing shims on the inner bracket. Conversely, removing shims on the outer bracket increases toe IN, adding shims here decreases it.
What we want to do here, while getting the wheel toe into specs, is to maintain the wheelbase. This is meant to be 88 inches, from the center of the front wheel hub to the center of the rear wheel hub, on both sides of the car. As you can see, if you take most of the shims from both brackets, the WB would decrease on this side of the car. Best to keep the factory geometry as designed. TR's that I've looked at have generally between two to four shims on both sides of the car.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: John Cyganowski
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 3:44 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question

Hi All-

Okay I have another question regarding the rear suspension.

I believe the shims are for castor adjustment?

On my passenger side, I had 4 shims on the inner bracket and 3 shims on the 
outer bracket.

Would this not be the same as having 1 shim on the inner bracket and 0 shims 
on the outer bracket?

What am I missing.

Nelson's tome on Buckeye is helpful, but it is dense and it will take me a 
while to get my mind wrapped around this one.

Thanks.
John Cyg
CC52927LO
70 Damson

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From janah at att.net  Sat Aug 20 06:35:27 2011
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Sat, 20 Aug 2011 08:35:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question
References: <COL123-DS7E33A3A0ABDBCF32832ACF42D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <1A80699392774C90A1452218993ACD26@p4home>

Wheel base.  Okay, I did not consider that.  I think some more work on the 
car today.  Paint the rest of the front suspension and get the Ratco Coil 
over Shocks installed.

John Cyg


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: "John Cyganowski" <janah at att.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 8:30 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question


> John---These shims control the wheel toe. Adding shims to the outside 
> bracket increases toe OUT, as would decreasing shims on the inner bracket. 
> Conversely, removing shims on the outer bracket increases toe IN, adding 
> shims here decreases it.
> What we want to do here, while getting the wheel toe into specs, is to 
> maintain the wheelbase. This is meant to be 88 inches, from the center of 
> the front wheel hub to the center of the rear wheel hub, on both sides of 
> the car. As you can see, if you take most of the shims from both brackets, 
> the WB would decrease on this side of the car. Best to keep the factory 
> geometry as designed. TR's that I've looked at have generally between two 
> to four shims on both sides of the car.
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John Cyganowski
> Sent: Friday, August 19, 2011 3:44 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Rear Suspension Question
>
> Hi All-
>
> Okay I have another question regarding the rear suspension.
>
> I believe the shims are for castor adjustment?
>
> On my passenger side, I had 4 shims on the inner bracket and 3 shims on 
> the
> outer bracket.
>
> Would this not be the same as having 1 shim on the inner bracket and 0 
> shims
> on the outer bracket?
>
> What am I missing.
>
> Nelson's tome on Buckeye is helpful, but it is dense and it will take me a
> while to get my mind wrapped around this one.
>
> Thanks.
> John Cyg
> CC52927LO
> 70 Damson
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Aug 21 22:27:32 2011
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sun, 21 Aug 2011 22:27:32 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Back from VTR2011
Message-ID: <1542E350-794D-487B-AB0C-240E76A6F665@comcast.net>

One of my shorter trips.  Driving time about 2 hours and 30 minutes.   
Drove 373 miles, which included Fun Tour, Funkhana, TSD, Autocross,  
Car Show.  Used about 14 gallons of gas...averaged 26.9 mpg.

I had fun, hope all that attended did too.

Thanks to all those on the list that were volunteers at the convention  
and the events and a special thanks to Marty Sukey and Jack MaGahey  
who spent a lot of time designing an autocross course for us even  
though they couldn't attend.

Cheers
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From john70350 at msn.com  Wed Aug 24 12:38:09 2011
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Wed, 24 Aug 2011 18:38:09 +0000
Subject: [6pack] hi!g7
Message-ID: <BLU151-W43AEBBE1C5033AB8817368F7110@phx.gbl>

FP
Hello dear !
  Hope everything  goes well with you!
   I found  a very cool shop online ,you can go and see ,it sell
 electronic products,like Sony TVS ,Apple laptops ,Canon Digital SLRs .
www.edadiscount.com fu

From dhounsell at msn.com  Thu Aug 25 12:08:32 2011
From: dhounsell at msn.com (=?Windows-1252?B?V2luZG93cyBMaXZlmSBUZWFt?=)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 14:08:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rough running when warmed up
In-Reply-To: <SNT112-W47E90CCE474FEE59DAED9EAB2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT112-W47E90CCE474FEE59DAED9EAB2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT112-W31DECF658EB50E9AEE4A43AB100@phx.gbl>

From: dhounsell at msn.com
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject:
Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 06:29:11 -0400





71 Tr6 Stock except for Crane ignition,  Starts great and runs strong for 45
minutes.  Then starts to stumble under load and runs rough up till 3000 RPM.

Died on side of road yesterday on my wife.  Got to the car after setting for
20 minutes and it started up and ran for 5 minutes than started to miss had to
run it over 3000 rpm to get it home.  Have had problems with rotor in the
past.  Thinking this may be a fuel issue.  Check fuel filter and it checks
out.  Full tank of fresh gas with bottle of ethenol treatment.  Any ideas, as
do not want to have to rescue the wife again



Doug Hounsell

71 TR6

Gilford, NH

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Thu Aug 25 13:16:44 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 12:16:44 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Rough running when warmed up
In-Reply-To: <SNT112-W31DECF658EB50E9AEE4A43AB100@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT112-W47E90CCE474FEE59DAED9EAB2F0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT112-W31DECF658EB50E9AEE4A43AB100@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <5CD12321-3AB0-4D1C-A949-0C439FEC1273@comcast.net>

Coil ...


On Aug 25, 2011, at 11:08 AM, Windows Live Team wrote:

> From: dhounsell at msn.com
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject:
> Date: Mon, 22 Aug 2011 06:29:11 -0400
>
>
>
>
>
> 71 Tr6 Stock except for Crane ignition,  Starts great and runs strong for
45
> minutes.  Then starts to stumble under load and runs rough up till 3000
RPM.
>
> Died on side of road yesterday on my wife.  Got to the car after setting
for
> 20 minutes and it started up and ran for 5 minutes than started to miss had
to
> run it over 3000 rpm to get it home.  Have had problems with rotor in the
> past.  Thinking this may be a fuel issue.  Check fuel filter and it checks
> out.  Full tank of fresh gas with bottle of ethenol treatment.  Any ideas,
as
> do not want to have to rescue the wife again
>



"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Thu Aug 25 14:40:00 2011
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 16:40:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Rough running when warmed up
In-Reply-To: <5CD12321-3AB0-4D1C-A949-0C439FEC1273@comcast.net>
References: <SNT112-W47E90CCE474FEE59DAED9EAB2F0@phx.gbl>
	<SNT112-W31DECF658EB50E9AEE4A43AB100@phx.gbl>
	<5CD12321-3AB0-4D1C-A949-0C439FEC1273@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <20110825164000.BGU17016@ms01.consolidated.net>

I had the same problem with my 6 a couple of years ago. Turned out I was running 
a tr4 rotor by mistake. It was in one of those deals from the Roadster Factory they 
were running with a free tune up kit with an order. Took a while to figure it out. 
They are different. Steve Kirsis '70 damson, '75 Pimento with A/C. 

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Thu Aug 25 19:44:44 2011
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (kirsis stephen)
Date: Thu, 25 Aug 2011 21:44:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Rough running when warmed up
In-Reply-To: <D7F13BD4077F4C018DDC46C939141599@ranteer.local>
References: <SNT112-W47E90CCE474FEE59DAED9EAB2F0@phx.gbl><SNT112-W31DECF658EB50E9AEE4A43AB100@phx.gbl><5CD12321-3AB0-4D1C-A949-0C439FEC1273@comcast.net>
	<20110825164000.BGU17016@ms01.consolidated.net>
	<D7F13BD4077F4C018DDC46C939141599@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <20110825214444.BGU61894@ms01.consolidated.net>

Exactly. Kept asking myself what I had done to the car when it was running good 
and started putting the old stuff back in one by one. When I got to the rotor you 
can see a difference if you look closely. As I remember it is a little short for the 
contacts. Acted the same for me as the symptoms described by Bill.

From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Fri Aug 26 12:10:40 2011
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 26 Aug 2011 14:10:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Connecticut Triumph Register
Message-ID: <8CE323298CBAC80-1D18-720A@webmail-d003.sysops.aol.com>

   MARK THIS DAY ON YOUR CALENDAR:
                                                          SEPTEMBER 11TH
2011!!
                               31st ANNUAL BRITISH MOTORCAR GATHERING AND
PICNIC
          Sunday, September 11th, 2011 / Wickham Park, Manchester, CT / Exit
60 off I-84

Venue
The Connecticut Triumph Register invites anyone with a British motorcar or
motorcycle
of any make, model, and condition to join the fun. Wickham Park, with 250
acres of gardens,
open fields, woodlands, ponds, picnic areas, sports facilities,and other
attractions, is a beautiful venue for this autumn event. Signs within the park
will direct participants to the registration and field parking area. Dash
plaques will be provided while supplies last.

Food and Family Fun
Meet and mingle with other Triumph and British vehicle owners. Bring your own
picnic or purchase food and beverage at the event. Tennis and volleyball
courts are available. Class awards and raffle are the afternoon highlight. You
must be present to win raffle items.

Regalia
CTR t-shirts, golf shirts, hats, decals, and pins will be available for
purchase.

Schedule
9:30 AM - 11:00 AM: Registration and Preparation
11:00 AM - 12:30 PM: Judging (participantbs choice)
Class Awards @ 1:30 PM; Raffles @ 12:30 and 2PM

From janah at att.net  Sun Aug 28 15:47:30 2011
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:47:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Dilemma - What to do with the underside?
Message-ID: <BDA6BA52D23948468C293614DB71127E@p4home>

Hi All-

I need help with a dilemma.  The body is ~1/2 blasted and repairs are being 
made to a few spots (battery shelf, passenger side footwell).

Next the rear of the body gets done and the question is, what should be done 
with the underside?

Currently it has (factory?) undercoat on it.  My car is an earlier car.  It 
never had the engine bay coated with the tar/sticky stuff, but the underside 
and wheel wells had a coating of undercoat.  The bodyshop has outline a few 
ways to go:

a.) Do nothing. (lowest cost)
b.) Light sand blast to remover dirt and any loose pieces and recoat. (cost 
+)
c.) Remove undercoat, blast, priime and coat with rubberized bed liner. 
(cost++)
d.) Remove undercoat, blast and 2 stage paint. Looks very nice and could 
show car with mirrors underneath. (cost ++)
e.) Remove undercoat, blast, priime and coat with rubberized bed liner. Then 
2 stage paint. (cost +++)

Body shop guy says that if it was his car, he would go with option d. 
"because that's what I like".

Opinions please?

Thanks!
John Cyg.
CC 52927 L:O
1970 Damson 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun Aug 28 16:48:14 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 15:48:14 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Dilemma - What to do with the underside?
In-Reply-To: <BDA6BA52D23948468C293614DB71127E@p4home>
References: <BDA6BA52D23948468C293614DB71127E@p4home>
Message-ID: <C17FD530-620B-4ECD-8BD6-55DA24E88C12@comcast.net>

I would think it would depend on what you wanted to do with the car ... for
Concours ... it would need to be painted, not necessarily undercoated.  For
Show and shines, whatever your budget allows.  For a Driver ... I would do
(b) ... depending on where you are, in California ... just  paint ... in
Minnesota ... undercoat.

Probably doesn't help your dilemma, but at least things you might consider
...

Good Luck ...


On Aug 28, 2011, at 2:47 PM, John Cyganowski wrote:

> Hi All-
>
> I need help with a dilemma.  The body is ~1/2 blasted and repairs are being
made to a few spots (battery shelf, passenger side footwell).
>
> Next the rear of the body gets done and the question is, what should be done
with the underside?
>
> Currently it has (factory?) undercoat on it.  My car is an earlier car.  It
never had the engine bay coated with the tar/sticky stuff, but the underside
and wheel wells had a coating of undercoat.  The bodyshop has outline a few
ways to go:
>
> a.) Do nothing. (lowest cost)
> b.) Light sand blast to remover dirt and any loose pieces and recoat. (cost
+)
> c.) Remove undercoat, blast, priime and coat with rubberized bed liner.
(cost++)
> d.) Remove undercoat, blast and 2 stage paint. Looks very nice and could
show car with mirrors underneath. (cost ++)
> e.) Remove undercoat, blast, priime and coat with rubberized bed liner. Then
2 stage paint. (cost +++)
>
> Body shop guy says that if it was his car, he would go with option d.
"because that's what I like".
>
> Opinions please?
>
> Thanks!
> John Cyg.
> CC 52927 L:O
> 1970 Damson




"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Sun Aug 28 17:42:19 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 19:42:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Door checkstrap stop
Message-ID: <25D380A96FC7454C810DDA22B0337FE6@DCH6RFC1>

Hello, everyone:

 

I have my TR250 nearing completion and have run into a problem in that the
door checkstrap stop (part of the A-post) has snapped on the driver's side.
I think the best solution would be to fit a piece from a junk car.  Does
anyone know of a TR4 or 250 where this piece could be removed and
subsequently re-installed ?  If so, please contact me off-list.  Many
thanks.

 

Andrew Uprichard

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 28 19:13:40 2011
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 18:13:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] self-shifting problem
Message-ID: <1314580420.98216.YahooMailClassic@web160707.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>

Hello all:
 
Although I am no longer an owner, I would like to provide help to the buyer of
my car. The problem is as described by the new owner: "It shifts fine except
when you are in 1st gear and decelerate ( let off the gas, while in 1st gear )
and then it consistently pops out of gear."
 
The car was driving fine until the day it was loaded up in tractor trailer for
a long trip from Missouri to Carmel, CA. While this is technically not my
problem any longer, I feel obligated to help the new owner. It's my theory
that the car was left in gear after loading and that it may not have been
secured properly, thereby allowing it to rock forward and backward, putting
stress on the gearbox. Is this plausible?
 
In any case what are we looking at to fix this issue? The clutch is good, the
O/D was rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics after I bought the car. I need some
guidance for the new owner.
 
Thanks,
Jim Jones

From bratt at sasktel.net  Sun Aug 28 20:07:01 2011
From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed)
Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 20:07:01 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Dilemma - What to do with the underside?
References: <BDA6BA52D23948468C293614DB71127E@p4home>
Message-ID: <004b01cc65f0$57e31cc0$6401a8c0@CHALKIESCOMPUTER>

John:

Unless you are going to be showing the car it would be a waste to spend a 
bunch of money to dress up what won't be seen.  Beyond that, I find the 
original tar has good sound reduction in that it does not amplify road noise 
into the car, as I have found in cars with no undercoat.

I have had experience with footwells having chips in the tar on both a car 
and a truck (non-Triumph) and I found the easiest "fix" was a good underside 
wash at the car wash, followed, when dry, by an application of "Blackjack" 
roofing cement to all deep chips, and then a cover coat of brush-on roofing 
tar; the stuff sold as a paint on leak stopper.  When done, it could pass 
for new original tar, and the total cost was under $20.00 for the car, and I 
had more than enough left over to do the truck.

Ed Bratt
Regina Saskatchewan

1976 TR6


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Cyganowski" <janah at att.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 3:47 PM
Subject: [6pack] Dilemma - What to do with the underside?

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Mon Aug 29 08:48:26 2011
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 10:48:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] self-shifting problem
In-Reply-To: <1314580420.98216.YahooMailClassic@web160707.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
References: <1314580420.98216.YahooMailClassic@web160707.mail.bf1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01573C70A9CA@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

What has happened with this car is that some wannabe race car driver was
constantly jamming it into first at a rather high speed (>20 mph) and then
letting the trans decelerate the car, versus using the brakes, which is just
what the brakes were put on the car for!  As a consequence the DPO has either
ruined the dog teeth on first gear and/or worn the shift fork to where it does
not push the interlock all the way onto the dog teeth.  In either case, the
only cure is to replace the offending parts.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jim Jones [jimjcmo at yahoo.com]
Sent: Sunday, August 28, 2011 9:13 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] self-shifting problem

Hello all:

Although I am no longer an owner, I would like to provide help to the buyer
of
my car. The problem is as described by the new owner: "It shifts fine except
when you are in 1st gear and decelerate ( let off the gas, while in 1st gear
)
and then it consistently pops out of gear."

The car was driving fine until the day it was loaded up in tractor trailer
for
a long trip from Missouri to Carmel, CA. While this is technically not my
problem any longer, I feel obligated to help the new owner. It's my theory
that the car was left in gear after loading and that it may not have been
secured properly, thereby allowing it to rock forward and backward, putting
stress on the gearbox. Is this plausible?

In any case what are we looking at to fix this issue? The clutch is good, the
O/D was rebuilt by Quantum Mechanics after I bought the car. I need some
guidance for the new owner.

Thanks,
Jim Jones

________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Mon Aug 29 12:23:25 2011
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 14:23:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Watkins Glen Vintage Race
Message-ID: <4E5BD91D.7060907@bright.net>

Hi listers. We will beat the Watkins Glen Vintage races Sept. 8 - 11.  
We will have a parts/accessories booth in the vendor area and can bring 
items out ifyou have a specific need. Please give me a call if you need 
something.  Look forward to seeing you there. Thanks,Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US&  Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Mon Aug 29 14:55:31 2011
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 13:55:31 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Successful return from VTR
Message-ID: <4E5BFCC3.3080009@sri.com>

Hi All,

My wife and I returned safely from our 3500+ mile round trip to 
Breckenridge, including several national parks and side trips along the way.
We had a great time and the TR6 did well (OK, there were a few minor 
problems).  It was good to put faces with names, and I look forward to 
seeing you all again.

Thanks for the good wishes and kind thoughts....

Cregg Cowan
TTSCC Activity Coordinator
Mountain View, Calif

From wmp at charter.net  Mon Aug 29 15:13:53 2011
From: wmp at charter.net (Bill Palmer)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:13:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 70
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1314640802.25739.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1314640802.25739.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BF9257EE-91F5-4DF0-A226-B0139C4BD46A@charter.net>

If you are going to the expense and trouble to repaint a 40 + year old car why
not take the tar undercoating off? It took about 4 days bit I was able to
check for rust.  My restoration now repainted looks like she just rolled off
the assembly line.  I plan to use a mat inside the cabin to quiet any road
noise. Understand the dealers applied the tar coating.  I also replaced the
plastic grill on the air intake with a solid metal cover.  Old plastic grill
allowed debris to collect in the inside front panel.  That blocked water
drainage from letting the water out.  Found rust had formed as a result.
Funny that the Brits with so much rainfall would have figured that out.  Used
a sturdy putty knife and needle airgun to remove the tar.  It was a nasty job
last summer.  Good luck in restoring your car.

Sent from my iPod

On Aug 29, 2011, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
>    6pack at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    6pack-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    6pack-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Dilemma - What to do with the underside? (John Cyganowski)
>   2. Re: Dilemma - What to do with the underside? (William Pugh)
>   3. Door checkstrap stop (Andrew Uprichard)
>   4. self-shifting problem (Jim Jones)
>   5. Re: Dilemma - What to do with the underside? (ed)
>   6. Re: self-shifting problem (Ruffner, James A *HS)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Sun, 28 Aug 2011 17:47:30 -0400
> From: "John Cyganowski" <janah at att.net>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Dilemma - What to do with the underside?
> Message-ID: <BDA6BA52D23948468C293614DB71127E at p4home>
> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
>    reply-type=original
>
> Hi All-
>
> I need help with a dilemma.  The body is ~1/2 blasted and repairs are being
> made to a few spots (battery shelf, passenger side footwell).

From auprichard at uprichard.net  Mon Aug 29 18:51:10 2011
From: auprichard at uprichard.net (Andrew Uprichard)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:51:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>

Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
4s, 250s and 6s?

Andrew Uprichard

From rmweber_99 at yahoo.com  Mon Aug 29 18:56:08 2011
From: rmweber_99 at yahoo.com (rweber)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 17:56:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Dilemma - What to do with the underside?
In-Reply-To: <BDA6BA52D23948468C293614DB71127E@p4home>
Message-ID: <1314665768.63169.YahooMailClassic@web120011.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I had a similar dilemma when I restored my '71 TR6 a couple of years ago.
Originally, it was just going to be a driver restoration until the engineer in
me just had to see what was underneath the tar. A few hours with a Black &
Decker heat gun and a narrow scraper revealed a number of surprises as well
as DPO bodges that I needed to fix. I did a quick kerosene wash to clean up
the residual tar before sending the body off to the soda-blaster. Glad I did
it.
 
I had it 2 part painted and it looks great. I kept the underside in paint
without undercoat and used chip-coat inside the wheel wells only.
 
I'm glad I did it this way but everyone has a different tolerance on what they
want to put into a car versus what they want to get out of it.
 
Cheers,
Ron W.
71 TR6

--- On Sun, 8/28/11, John Cyganowski <janah at att.net> wrote:


From: John Cyganowski <janah at att.net>
Subject: [6pack] Dilemma - What to do with the underside?
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Sunday, August 28, 2011, 5:47 PM


Hi All-

I need help with a dilemma.  The body is ~1/2 blasted and repairs are being
made to a few spots (battery shelf, passenger side footwell).

Next the rear of the body gets done and the question is, what should be done
with the underside?

Currently it has (factory?) undercoat on it.  My car is an earlier car.  It
never had the engine bay coated with the tar/sticky stuff, but the underside
and wheel wells had a coating of undercoat.  The bodyshop has outline a few
ways to go:

a.) Do nothing. (lowest cost)
b.) Light sand blast to remover dirt and any loose pieces and recoat. (cost
+)
c.) Remove undercoat, blast, priime and coat with rubberized bed liner.
(cost++)
d.) Remove undercoat, blast and 2 stage paint. Looks very nice and could show
car with mirrors underneath. (cost ++)
e.) Remove undercoat, blast, priime and coat with rubberized bed liner. Then 2
stage paint. (cost +++)

Body shop guy says that if it was his car, he would go with option d. "because
that's what I like".

Opinions please?

Thanks!
John Cyg.
CC 52927 L:O
1970 Damson
________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rmweber_99 at yahoo.com

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon Aug 29 19:21:36 2011
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (William Pugh)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 18:21:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall><CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com><21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <93A655E0-156C-499B-803D-C6F4385CF60D@comcast.net>

TR3   26 front, 28 rear ... TR6  24 front, 26 rear ...

On Aug 29, 2011, at 5:51 PM, Andrew Uprichard wrote:

> Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
> 4s, 250s and 6s?
> 
> Andrew Uprichard
> 



"Life is too short to drive Boring Cars"

Bill Pugh
Wallace, CA	
Casper
1957 TR3
TS16665L
anabil007 at comcast.net

From j.honor at comcast.net  Mon Aug 29 19:31:19 2011
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Mon, 29 Aug 2011 20:31:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Tire pressures
In-Reply-To: <C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
References: <02cc01cc65fd$97408120$0301a8c0@randall>
	<CAPK7CFCEuTRZP89J94Y1-K7DN21DLKU9E8tkQEz4oQXzJJt0_g@mail.gmail.com>
	<21b501cc666e$fe00e910$fa02bb30$@rr.com>
	<53FFBAEBAF094AE384F5A010C62474C8@ranteer.local>
	<C2C89144931044708130030490047B3C@DCH6RFC1>
Message-ID: <4BA925BF-5067-4D1D-A4CF-45AD71D16021@comcast.net>

I use 28# in town & hwy yoko avid 205/70/15 good cruising & ride etc

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 29, 2011, at 7:51 PM, "Andrew Uprichard" <auprichard at uprichard.net>
wrote:

> Just out of interest, what tire pressures are people using in their TR3s,
> 4s, 250s and 6s?
>
> Andrew Uprichard
>
> ________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe:
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