From emw327 at gmail.com Fri Apr 1 03:30:18 2011 From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=) Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 12:30:18 +0200 Subject: [6pack] TR3 Gearbox Oil Message-ID: Hello I bought a 1959 TR3a. I'm nut shure about the gearbox in it. A TR3 Gearbox needs SAE 30 oil. A TR4 gearbox needs SAE 90 oil. Does anybody knows from what number of gearbox SAE 90 is needed. I all ready drained it, so I don't know if its a synchronised first or not. Greetings from Belgium Guido From trsix74 at comcast.net Fri Apr 1 05:58:57 2011 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 12:58:57 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] TR3 Gearbox Oil In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2126721444.374341.1301662737472.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> There are many answers to this question. In some books it recommends 30W, other vesions it shows 90W. Some TR repair experts have the same opinions. My local man who has been repairing LBC's for over 30 years says Triumphs use 90 w and Mg's use 30w. I have been driving my TR3A with a 1968 OD gearbox for 5 years now with 90w. I replace the oil yearly, only because in the winter I get bored, start feeling like need to do something to extend the life of my car and I enjoy the mess I make! From dimikouts at sympatico.ca Fri Apr 1 08:08:16 2011 From: dimikouts at sympatico.ca (dimitri koutsoufis) Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 11:08:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR3 Gearbox Oil In-Reply-To: <2126721444.374341.1301662737472.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <2126721444.374341.1301662737472.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: Greetings, Lubricant technology has come a long way since our cars were born. Using modern oils and viscosities can usually improve wear and tear, and performance of our mechanicals. Think temperature and tolerance. If the average temp is on the higher side, use a heavier oil. If there is some tolerance, the same. Since my british cars are driven mostly in the summer, i use 20W50 in the engine. And usually use 85W in the manual transmission and rear axle, along with a modern additive to help the synchros work better. One of my cars (not TR) has a limited slip differential, so that changes the formula somewhat. It doesn't hurt to experiment. Just remember that the worst thing you can do is run hot with low oil. dimitri On 1-Apr-11, at 8:58 AM, trsix74 at comcast.net wrote: > There are many answers to this question. In some books it > recommends 30W, other vesions it shows 90W. Some TR repair experts > have the same opinions. My local man who has been repairing LBC's > for over 30 years says Triumphs use 90 w and Mg's use 30w. > > > > I have been driving my TR3A with a 1968 OD gearbox for 5 years now > with 90w. I replace the oil yearly, only because in the winter I > get bored, start feeling like need to do something to extend the > life of my car and I enjoy the mess I make! > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ > dimikouts at sympatico.ca From jrurhh at aol.com Fri Apr 1 12:17:22 2011 From: jrurhh at aol.com (jrurhh at aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 15:17:22 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Time for a new home Message-ID: <8CDBEB88F325FBE-FF0-1B73E@Webmail-d120.sysops.aol.com> I havn't been using my TR6 much and think it might be time sell it someone who will use it more. Also with two kids in college I could use the money. So it you know of anyone in the Boston area looking for a TR6 drop me note. It's a 1974 in great shape running well with many upgrades. From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Fri Apr 1 21:08:07 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Fri, 1 Apr 2011 21:08:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Gearbox Oil Recommendation Message-ID: <960011.82876.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Our club's guru said my 71 A type was the nicest shifting british trannie he'd used. Redline gear oil is the answer! MTL for regular boxes or MT90 for ODs. Bruce Simms From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Apr 2 04:53:32 2011 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 07:53:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Pertronix ignitor install Message-ID: On a 76 with the ballast resistor, where do I hook up the red wire? The instruction sheet says to attach to the ignition switch side of the resistor. I confess I am a little confused about this section of the wiring diagram and on the car the resistor wire it goes into the harness. Anyone have a suggestion for where exactly to attach this wire? John North 76 TR6 From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Apr 2 07:21:49 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 2 Apr 2011 07:21:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Pertronix ignitor install In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi John, On our 1970, TR6 The Red Wire is attached to the same terminal as the "hot" wire from the Alternator. I think that should be the + side, (red) and the - side (black). Hope that helps. >On a 76 with the ballast resistor, where do I hook up the red wire? >The instruction sheet says to attach to the ignition switch side of >the resistor. I confess I am a little confused about this section of >the wiring diagram and on the car the resistor wire it goes into the >harness. Anyone have a suggestion for where exactly to attach this >wire? > >John North >76 TR6 -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From jhmdds at aol.com Wed Apr 6 10:36:03 2011 From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com) Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2011 12:36:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Quick ratio steering rack questions Message-ID: <8CDC28FDAF2E03A-1524-5F3FD@webmail-m141.sysops.aol.com> I received my new quick ratio steering rack off backorder from Moss last week. While installing it last night I noticed that there is no plug in the cap nut to attach the ground strap to like on the old rack. Question #1: What are folks solving this problem? #2: Are the cap nuts interchangeable? #3: I have the Goodparts aluminum rack mounts. Are the Goodparts mounts better or should I use the one included with the rack? #4: When I attach the tie rod ends to the proper length they run into the dust shields behind the rotors. What kind of angle or geometry or relationship should I be looking for as the bolt end of the tie rod passes into the receiver on the spindle arm? Thanks, James Maddox '76 Tr6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Apr 6 12:06:06 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2011 18:06:06 GMT Subject: [6pack] Quick ratio steering rack questions Message-ID: Hi, James--- Question #1. I found no good reason for the factory (horn) ground strap wires to be connected to the pinion plug/cap. I moved these double black wires to the cross tube bracket stud, between double nuts. The horn works fine, and so I left the grease fitting permanently connected to this cap. See if this works for you. The new rack may also has no way to grease it, as delivered. D&T for a grease fitting here at your own peril! #2. I don't think the cap/plug is interchangeable with the stock cap. (The QR plug thread is probably metric and as well as a different diam.). #3. Don't know what kind of mounts came with the new QR rack. We know the idea behind the solid rack mounts is less lost motion before the wheels start to turn with steering input. This also means more steering wheel shock when encountering road wheel deflections. Your choice here. #4. I can't picture what's going on here. It would seem that when you get the proper toe with the wheels, there should be no interference with the shields. Take a good look at this with the wheels on the ground. Dick From robert.breazeale at gmail.com Wed Apr 6 20:55:12 2011 From: robert.breazeale at gmail.com (Robert Breazeale) Date: Wed, 06 Apr 2011 19:55:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Member on the list? Message-ID: <4D9D2790.6020302@gmail.com> Saw a Valencia Blue early 70's TR6 traveling on Green Valley Road between El Dorado Hills and Folsom, CA. Anyone on the list by chance? Kind regards, - Bob - From Footfrek at aol.com Fri Apr 8 03:17:18 2011 From: Footfrek at aol.com (Footfrek at aol.com) Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 05:17:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] GM or Pennzoil synchromesh (Gear Oil) Message-ID: <50a5.6136160a.3ad02c9e@aol.com> I was in the auto parts store and saw bottle of Pennzoil for synchromesh GM manual transmissions. I read that it was safe for yellow metals. I was wondering if anyone was using this? It seems to be readily available at least. Apparently I solves some shifting problems honda owners seem to have. Although that may only be the friction modified version. Jason M. Owen 70 tr6 From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Apr 8 11:27:09 2011 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 11:27:09 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Thinking of coming to VTR2011? Message-ID: The Long Island Triumph Association is doing some planning for coming to VTR2011 in Breckenridge, Colorado so I thought I'd share this in case you might want to join up with them. Sounds like a good way to get here from the east coast or points in between if you don't feel like driving the whole way. http://www.longislandtriumph.org/vtr-colorado To Register see: http://vtr2011.com/ The registration works...I used it. You definitely want to get into the Beaver Run host hotel as it will be the hub of activity. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From v.navarrette at comcast.net Fri Apr 8 18:42:54 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Fri, 8 Apr 2011 17:42:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Goodparts Nylatron Bushings In-Reply-To: <50a5.6136160a.3ad02c9e@aol.com> References: <50a5.6136160a.3ad02c9e@aol.com> Message-ID: <000001cbf64f$113b4f60$33b1ee20$@navarrette@comcast.net> Guys: Before I put them up on eBay, I thought I would give the list first crack at an unopened rear set of Goodparts Nylatron suspension bushings for the TR6. $45 with free shipping to the continental US. Here is the URL: http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=12 I bought them thinking I was going to need them for rear suspension upgrade, but the BPNW sports springs with Urethane packing has made things stiff enough to suit me, so I never used them. Still sealed in their bag, with installation instruction. Let me know. If no interest, they will go on eBay. Cheers, Vance From machinemd at msn.com Sun Apr 10 12:44:15 2011 From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN) Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 14:44:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Quick trans question Message-ID: Hey Guys, Just a quick question. Knowing I had a bad rear crank seal and a trans leak, I pulled em out to correct. I was surprised to find the 4 speed trans leaking on top where the shift shafts go in. I first checked to see if a breather was plugged and found none. Did I miss it somewhere? I then drained the trans and found 1 1/2 quarts tho the Haynes quotes 2.4 pints....9 ounces over! When I checked it last year I filled it to the fill plug and dropped the car down on its wheels to let the excess drain out, then reinstalled the plug. Is this the accepted routine? Maybe I shoulda let it sit longer?? Where did I screw up?! Thanks for all advice. Steve 1974 TR6 From paradigm_inc at comcast.net Sun Apr 10 15:30:39 2011 From: paradigm_inc at comcast.net (Jim Hinckley) Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 14:30:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Original tire size Message-ID: <000d01cbf7c6$8a3c8b40$9eb5a1c0$@net> So, was the original tire for the TR6 an 82 or an 80? I've read information stating both. If it's the 80, then the perfect plus one sizing would be a 225/60-16. From a review of the posts though, this size has interference problems. If it's the 82, then a 215/65-16 would be virtually an exact match diameter wise. I don't know if anyone has run that size, but it seems it might have interference problems as well. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 10 18:29:16 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 00:29:16 GMT Subject: [6pack] Quick trans question Message-ID: Steve---It's possible to overfill the tranny, depending on any tilt going on in the process. But I see nothing wrong with the way you allowed the tranny fluid level to drain out any excess you may have put in. Don't know where the difference came from between what you found and what the Book says the case should hold. (Unless you also have the OD unit, 3.4 pints) The breather hole is located at the front of the top cover. Unlike the one on the differential unit, this one on the tranny is uncovered. It's about a 1/8 inch hole. If you put a certain amount of oil in this case and stand the tranny on its nose, you see where it comes out! Moving the shifter should push out air/dirt covering this hole. Replacing the O-rings on the shifter rods isn't too big a job. Order the three plugs along with the new O-rings, if you have the press-in plugs. Follow the Bentley manual, or the Haynes, if this is the one you have. Dick -----Original Message----- From: STEVE STERN Sent: Sunday, April 10, 2011 11:44 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Quick trans question Hey Guys, Just a quick question. Knowing I had a bad rear crank seal and a trans leak, I pulled em out to correct. I was surprised to find the 4 speed trans leaking on top where the shift shafts go in. I first checked to see if a breather was plugged and found none. Did I miss it somewhere? I then drained the trans and found 1 1/2 quarts tho the Haynes quotes 2.4 pints....9 ounces over! When I checked it last year I filled it to the fill plug and dropped the car down on its wheels to let the excess drain out, then reinstalled the plug. Is this the accepted routine? Maybe I shoulda let it sit longer?? Where did I screw up?! Thanks for all advice. Steve 1974 TR6 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From anabil007 at comcast.net Sun Apr 10 23:58:52 2011 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sun, 10 Apr 2011 22:58:52 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Original tire size In-Reply-To: <000d01cbf7c6$8a3c8b40$9eb5a1c0$@net> References: <000d01cbf7c6$8a3c8b40$9eb5a1c0$@net> Message-ID: The original tires on my 1970 TR6 were 185/15 Redlines ... I put on 205/70-15s and the tire diameter was only 1/4 inch less ... FWIW ... Michelin Hydroedge Green, really stick, quiet and no rubbing. >So, was the original tire for the TR6 an 82 or an 80? I've read information >stating both. If it's the 80, then the perfect plus one sizing would be a >225/60-16. From a review of the posts though, this size has interference >problems. If it's the 82, then a 215/65-16 would be virtually an exact match >diameter wise. I don't know if anyone has run that size, but it seems it >might have interference problems as well. _ -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh anabil007 at comcast.net Wallace, CA From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Apr 11 10:08:01 2011 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 09:08:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Original tire size In-Reply-To: <000d01cbf7c6$8a3c8b40$9eb5a1c0$@net> Message-ID: <769156.94117.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Jim: According to an article in British Motoring (it was a little periodical by Moss) the aspect ratio of 185R 15 tires was 82. The recommended "modern" replacement size in the article was 205/70x15 or 195/75x15. The latter is almost non-existent. The one thing to keep in mind (in my opinion) is that the steering and suspension of these cars were designed for narrower tires. In fact the tires on the UK market cars were 165R 15! Going to super wide tires can put stresses on the suspension it was not designed to endure. Symptoms of this are twitchy or darty steering, wandering over uneven road surfaces, rougher ride. Not long ago Car and Driver did a small article about the real larger tires and wheels. They used a VW Golf with a stock 195/65x15 size tire on steel wheels for the control. They then fitted 16" alloys with 205/55 tires, then 17" alloys with 235/45 tires, and finally 18" alloys with 245/35 tires. The results showed that the 16" upgrade created a small improvement in g-force load and a maybe a little crisper subjective feel. The others were actually worse than the stock set up, plus their unsprung weight was higher. Overall they evaluated the stock set up as their prefernce for daily driving and brisk back roads fun. Unless you plan to autocross, race, or just you like the look of the bigger wheel and tires, larger tires and wheels probably won't do a lot to significantly improve the handling of these old cars. FWIW, my car has 15" Panasport wheels and 205/65 tires. The wheels are much "truer" than the stock steel rims. As for the tires I will go to 205/70 tires next time. Keep in mind that almost ANY modern radial you can buy will be a lot better than the original Michelins or Goodyears that came on the cars when new. Jim (snip) From dave at ranteer.com Mon Apr 11 11:37:34 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 11 Apr 2011 12:37:34 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Original tire size In-Reply-To: <769156.94117.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <769156.94117.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <97826F2502D64357B40A5BFAC9B780DC@ranteer.local> ?my 2c I won't address bigger wheels/tires, but I will say that the best way to improve handling and braking is to go to wider, stickier tires (Yokohama 215/60 R15 94V ES100 will fit on the stock rims). we did upgrade the suspension with goodparts lowered springs and front/rear sway bars, and I will say categorically that from a handling and stopping standpoint that combination is absolutely the best way to go -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Sent: Monday, April 11, 2011 11:08 AM To: Jim Hinckley Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Original tire size Jim: According to an article in British Motoring (it was a little periodical by Moss) the aspect ratio of 185R 15 tires was 82. The recommended "modern" replacement size in the article was 205/70x15 or 195/75x15. The latter is almost non-existent. The one thing to keep in mind (in my opinion) is that the steering and suspension of these cars were designed for narrower tires. In fact the tires on the UK market cars were 165R 15! Going to super wide tires can put stresses on the suspension it was not designed to endure. Symptoms of this are twitchy or darty steering, wandering over uneven road surfaces, rougher ride. Not long ago Car and Driver did a small article about the real larger tires and wheels. They used a VW Golf with a stock 195/65x15 size tire on steel wheels for the control. They then fitted 16" alloys with 205/55 tires, then 17" alloys with 235/45 tires, and finally 18" alloys with 245/35 tires. The results showed that the 16" upgrade created a small improvement in g-force load and a maybe a little crisper subjective feel. The others were actually worse than the stock set up, plus their unsprung weight was higher. Overall they evaluated the stock set up as their prefernce for daily driving and brisk back roads fun. Unless you plan to autocross, race, or just you like the look of the bigger wheel and tires, larger tires and wheels probably won't do a lot to significantly improve the handling of these old cars. FWIW, my car has 15" Panasport wheels and 205/65 tires. The wheels are much "truer" than the stock steel rims. As for the tires I will go to 205/70 tires next time. Keep in mind that almost ANY modern radial you can buy will be a lot better than the original Michelins or Goodyears that came on the cars when new. Jim From jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 14 19:46:02 2011 From: jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com (jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 14 Apr 2011 19:46:02 Subject: [6pack] 6pack@autox.team.net Message-ID: 168263a0250bc7d0d40289fab545c8a3@[192.168.1.1] 6pack at autox.team.net im not worried about providing for my family anymore this is an advantage for you http://hawaiianjewlry.com/searchresult-g_common_BH.php?CS=aHR0cDovL3d3dy5uYmMxMG9uLmNvbQ== There are no obligations involved with this business and you are free to start I was off and running in a matter of minutes everyone dreams of doing what you are about to do From mjmullin at juno.com Mon Apr 18 16:24:21 2011 From: mjmullin at juno.com (mjmullin at juno.com) Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 22:24:21 GMT Subject: [6pack] Performance Cam Advice? Message-ID: <20110418.182421.7867.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Hi all: Can anyone chime in with advice regarding a good choice for a hot cam? I'm looking for a quality vendor, NEW cam, hardened, chilled and/or nitirided (if such a thing exists). I do not want to do this job again! I found the cross-reference cam list on the 'net that credits Vance for data crunching.The engine is 9.5:1, with a header, head work, etc. My last cam was an el cheapo regrind, and it is my opinion that it lasted about 30 minutes before the lobes wound up as tiny bits of metal in the oil filter. I pre-lubed the cam and followers with cam lube and used regular engine oil (not break in oil) when I startred 'er up. I'm thinkin' somewhere in the range of 280 degrees of duration with .400" valve lift. (S2, perhaps?) P.S. Do I need to remove the front cross member and steering rack to get the crank balancer, chain cover, and sprocket off? Any input either on- or off-list would be appreciated. Matt Mullin ____________________________________________________________ Groupon.com Official Site 1 huge daily deal on the best stuff to do in your city. Try it today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4dacba4ec83bf81cfabst05vuc From mark at bradakis.com Mon Apr 18 21:34:01 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 21:34:01 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] Well, shucks Message-ID: <20110419033401.C54AF2E06F@bradakis.com> That wasn't nice. Had a series of power bumps here at the house over the weekend that messed with my computers, like the main Team.Net server. That old Dell had been rock solid reliable, with an uptime of over 425 days. Oh well. Of course my computer troubles are nothing at all compared to the tornado havoc over the weekend. Hopefully no listers were seriously affected. I still remember what damage can be done by twisters from my years in the Midwest. When I did get the machines back up and running again a few things didn't quite work out, some software failed to start as it should. So you may have noticed no Team.Net email for a while. I was at work all day so I didn't notice until this evening. Sorry. We should be back in business now, though. Perhaps last week when I posted about 20 years of Team.Net I should have put in a pitch for some donations to acquire some newer, more stable hardware ( bigger UPS ) and some upgraded software. I certainly did recieve some donations, will hopefully get around to thanking folks in a day or two. So if you have a few bucks laying around and feel like helping to keep this Team.Net experiment around for another 20 years, feel free to visit http://www.team.net/donate.html - wait, I better update that file, the FAX machine is printing blank faxes, another bit of hardware I'll likely have to replace. Computers can be so much fun. Anyway, Team.Net email, forums and web pages should all be back to mostly normal, thank you for your patience. mjb. From mark at bradakis.com Mon Apr 18 23:13:20 2011 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 18 Apr 2011 23:13:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Performance Cam Advice? In-Reply-To: <20110418.182421.7867.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110418.182421.7867.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <4DAD19F0.7030703@bradakis.com> mjmullin at juno.com wrote: > Hi all: Can anyone chime in with advice regarding a good choice for a hot cam? > I'm looking for a quality vendor, NEW cam, hardened, chilled and/or nitirided > I'll suggest Ted Schumacher's TSI275 on a new blank, or a Goodparts G2. http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/camspecs.html http://www.goodparts.com/ mjb. From dave at ranteer.com Tue Apr 19 09:25:16 2011 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 10:25:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Performance Cam Advice? In-Reply-To: <20110418.182421.7867.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> References: <20110418.182421.7867.0@webmail04.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: <11AFBD6DA0C84D17BF5D2CF9FBC818A1@ranteer.local> ?Goodparts stuff is the best! -----Original Message----- From: mjmullin at juno.com Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 5:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Performance Cam Advice? Hi all: Can anyone chime in with advice regarding a good choice for a hot cam? I'm looking for a quality vendor, NEW cam, hardened, chilled and/or nitirided (if such a thing exists). I do not want to do this job again! I found the cross-reference cam list on the 'net that credits Vance for data crunching.The engine is 9.5:1, with a header, head work, etc. My last cam was an el cheapo regrind, and it is my opinion that it lasted about 30 minutes before the lobes wound up as tiny bits of metal in the oil filter. I pre-lubed the cam and followers with cam lube and used regular engine oil (not break in oil) when I startred 'er up. I'm thinkin' somewhere in the range of 280 degrees of duration with .400" valve lift. (S2, perhaps?) P.S. Do I need to remove the front cross member and steering rack to get the crank balancer, chain cover, and sprocket off? Any input either on- or off-list would be appreciated. Matt Mullin ______________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Apr 19 13:38:27 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 19:38:27 GMT Subject: [6pack] Performance Cam Advice? Message-ID: Matt---P.S. Yes, you'll have to remove the cross member, and slide the rack forward a little to remove the balancer. A small bottle of the ZZ__ sold by our Triumph parts houses to help cam break in, is said to be worth the cost. Continue to use the Cam Lube during installation, and for even more protection, you could use Valvoline 20-50 racing oil. This also has the zinc added, which benefits the lifters and lobes. Dick -----Original Message----- From: mjmullin at juno.com Sent: Monday, April 18, 2011 3:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Performance Cam Advice? Hi all: Can anyone chime in with advice regarding a good choice for a hot cam? I'm looking for a quality vendor, NEW cam, hardened, chilled and/or nitirided (if such a thing exists). I do not want to do this job again! I found the cross-reference cam list on the 'net that credits Vance for data crunching.The engine is 9.5:1, with a header, head work, etc. My last cam was an el cheapo regrind, and it is my opinion that it lasted about 30 minutes before the lobes wound up as tiny bits of metal in the oil filter. I pre-lubed the cam and followers with cam lube and used regular engine oil (not break in oil) when I startred 'er up. I'm thinkin' somewhere in the range of 280 degrees of duration with .400" valve lift. (S2, perhaps?) P.S. Do I need to remove the front cross member and steering rack to get the crank balancer, chain cover, and sprocket off? Any input either on- or off-list would be appreciated. Matt Mullin ____________________________________________________________ Groupon.com Official Site 1 huge daily deal on the best stuff to do in your city. Try it today! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4dacba4ec83bf81cfabst05vuc _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From paradigm_inc at comcast.net Tue Apr 19 22:52:54 2011 From: paradigm_inc at comcast.net (Jim Hinckley) Date: Tue, 19 Apr 2011 21:52:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Floor Pan Replacement Message-ID: <000f01cbff16$cfe0f120$6fa2d360$@net> Has anyone in the group replaced their floor pan(s) with the body on? If so, how did it go? Any pitfalls to be aware of? From gaf3 at charter.net Thu Apr 21 16:14:09 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 18:14:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Failure Message-ID: <4DB0AC31.8060706@charter.net> Group I just tore down a club members 74 TR6 engine rebuilt by the Roadster Factory back in 2002. It appears that the circlip that holds the wrist pin (gudgeon pin) in position was not seated properly. Looks like they did a nice job on the rebuild, but the wrist pin hammered the cylinder wall and I need to overbore the cylinder or sleeve it. Have any of you experienced a failure like this. The pistons were new A&E and the oil rings were cast iron and of course they came out in pieces. Thanks in advance Glenn Numerous Triumphs, they keep multiplying From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Apr 21 18:02:02 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 20:02:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Fred Thomas Decal Message-ID: As you hopefully know by now our friend and Triumph companion Fred Thomas passed away last month. There were requests for something to remember him by. A decal has been designed and is currently at the printers. It is available to all. The cost to cover the making of the decal and or sticker and the mailing them out to you is $2.00 for the first one and $1.00 for each additional ordered and shipped at the same time. You have two options. The first being a 3 inch diameter sticker that can be placed on your car, toolbox, children or whatever. The second is a 3 inch static cling decal what can be placed on the inside of your windshield, window or any other transparent object you desire. The decal/sticker design can be seen at http://cid-b7b9c2ce6905be67.photos.live.com/self.aspx/FT/Fred^_Thomas^_Decal ^_Final.jpg The outline of the car in the center of the decal is actually Freds red TR3. We took a picture of his car and performed some graphic artistry on it and what was left is an outline of his TR3. Not that it is any different than any other TR3 outline but I thought it was kind of neat that it was Freds. A big thanks to Darrell Floyd for helping me with that part of it. Here is how to get them. I can take PayPal at trmarty at hotmail.com, or you can mail me a check to Marty Sukey 38286 Law Rd. Grafton Ohio 44044. Include how many of each you want and give me your mailing address. Orders will be filled first come first serve. If we run out of product I will refund your money. I will get them in the mail as soon as I can after they come back from the printers but you might have to be patient. Marty From fishplate at charter.net Thu Apr 21 19:29:14 2011 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 21 Apr 2011 21:29:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Failure In-Reply-To: <4DB0AC31.8060706@charter.net> References: <4DB0AC31.8060706@charter.net> Message-ID: <4DB0D9EA.20604@charter.net> On 4/21/2011 6:14 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > I just tore down a club members 74 TR6 engine rebuilt by the Roadster > Factory back in 2002. > It appears that the circlip that holds the wrist pin (gudgeon pin) in > position was not seated properly. > Looks like they did a nice job on the rebuild, but the wrist pin > hammered the cylinder wall and I need to overbore the cylinder or > sleeve it. > Have any of you experienced a failure like this. I've had a wrist pin clip come loose before. It happens. Not necessarily the fault of the builder, especially after nine years. Jeff Scarbrough Corrosion Acres, Ga. From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Apr 21 19:45:36 2011 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 01:45:36 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Fred Thomas Decal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Nice job Marty. This url might work better for folks as it is too short to be mucked with by the mailer. Also FOT will bounce this reply so not everyone will get it. http://tinyurl.com/3o4aqlz Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Thursday, April 21, 2011 8:02 PM To: 6 Digest; FOT; Gary Hunter; Triumph List Subject: [6pack] Fred Thomas Decal As you hopefully know by now our friend and Triumph companion Fred Thomas passed away last month. There were requests for something to remember him by. A decal has been designed and is currently at the printers. It is available to all. The cost to cover the making of the decal and or sticker and the mailing them out to you is $2.00 for the first one and $1.00 for each additional ordered and shipped at the same time. You have two options. The first being a 3 inch diameter sticker that can be placed on your car, toolbox, children or whatever. The second is a 3 inch static cling decal what can be placed on the inside of your windshield, window or any other transparent object you desire. The decal/sticker design can be seen at http://cid-b7b9c2ce6905be67.photos.live.com/self.aspx/FT/Fred^_Thomas^_Decal ^_Final.jpg The outline of the car in the center of the decal is actually Freds red TR3. We took a picture of his car and performed some graphic artistry on it and what was left is an outline of his TR3. Not that it is any different than any other TR3 outline but I thought it was kind of neat that it was Freds. A big thanks to Darrell Floyd for helping me with that part of it. Here is how to get them. I can take PayPal at trmarty at hotmail.com, or you can mail me a check to Marty Sukey 38286 Law Rd. Grafton Ohio 44044. Include how many of each you want and give me your mailing address. Orders will be filled first come first serve. If we run out of product I will refund your money. I will get them in the mail as soon as I can after they come back from the printers but you might have to be patient. Marty _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stan.foster at hp.com From emw327 at gmail.com Fri Apr 22 06:15:30 2011 From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?ZW1haWwg4oWcIg==?=) Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 14:15:30 +0200 Subject: [6pack] Coliformia title Message-ID: Hello I know, its a shame for a TR-driver, and its not a Triumph thing, but... I know a 1930 Ford model A roadster for Sale. It is imported to Belgium (European Union) somewhere in the 90-s. Its cleared by the Euopean Customs, so everyhing looks OK, But, the owner never registrated it in Belgium, And he lost the original California title. Now what I need to obtain a Belgian registration, is - A Custom declaration (thats OK) *- The Title of the car...* Can I as a foreigner apply for a copy, or a substitute of the original title? and where should I ask for it??? Greeting from a sunny Belgium (300 Celsius - 860 Fahrenheit) Guido TR250-TR3a-Riley Lynx From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Apr 22 10:49:50 2011 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 12:49:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FT Deacals Message-ID: I am starting to get orders. Please note that there are both stickers for outside and static cling decals for inside available. You need to specify what you want when you order. Thanks, Marty From gaf3 at charter.net Fri Apr 22 16:30:36 2011 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Fri, 22 Apr 2011 18:30:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] TR6 Engine Failure In-Reply-To: <4DB0AC31.8060706@charter.net> References: <4DB0AC31.8060706@charter.net> Message-ID: <4DB2018C.5010102@charter.net> Thanks for the feedback on this engine failure. Does anyone out there have a source for the teflon piston pin buttons that were discussed. I remember a thread a while back regarding these. I do have a lathe but no teflon stock just nylatron and I'm not sure the material properties of nylatron would survive engine temps. It would be more cost effective to purchase these rather than make them. Thanks in advance Glenn Numerous Triumphs, they keep multiplying On 4/21/2011 6:14 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > Group > I just tore down a club members 74 TR6 engine rebuilt by the Roadster > Factory back in 2002. > It appears that the circlip that holds the wrist pin (gudgeon pin) in > position was not seated properly. > Looks like they did a nice job on the rebuild, but the wrist pin > hammered the cylinder wall and I need to overbore the cylinder or > sleeve it. > Have any of you experienced a failure like this. > The pistons were new A&E and the oil rings were cast iron and of > course they came out in pieces. > Thanks in advance > Glenn > Numerous Triumphs, they keep multiplying > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Apr 23 12:35:41 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:35:41 GMT Subject: [6pack] [Fot] TR6 Engine Failure Message-ID: Glenn---If the Teflon buttons you seek fail to turn up, Teflon can be purchased in round stock from McMaster-Carr outlets, and cut to size on your lathe. www.mcmaster.com Dick -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 3:30 PM To: fot at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [Fot] TR6 Engine Failure Thanks for the feedback on this engine failure. Does anyone out there have a source for the teflon piston pin buttons that were discussed. I remember a thread a while back regarding these. I do have a lathe but no teflon stock just nylatron and I'm not sure the material properties of nylatron would survive engine temps. It would be more cost effective to purchase these rather than make them. Thanks in advance Glenn Numerous Triumphs, they keep multiplying On 4/21/2011 6:14 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > Group > I just tore down a club members 74 TR6 engine rebuilt by the Roadster > Factory back in 2002. > It appears that the circlip that holds the wrist pin (gudgeon pin) in > position was not seated properly. > Looks like they did a nice job on the rebuild, but the wrist pin > hammered the cylinder wall and I need to overbore the cylinder or > sleeve it. > Have any of you experienced a failure like this. > The pistons were new A&E and the oil rings were cast iron and of > course they came out in pieces. > Thanks in advance > Glenn > Numerous Triumphs, they keep multiplying > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6 at lbcs.ca Sat Apr 23 13:46:31 2011 From: tr6 at lbcs.ca (Dave More) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 13:46:31 -0600 Subject: [6pack] SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs Message-ID: <5029F279-10CF-48E0-8137-BE62A3D3D468@lbcs.ca> I have some HS6's on my car and the car runs well with them with the exception of a bit of a minor stumble off idle. Mixture is correct, the carbs are balanced, dashpot oil is the correct level, so I'm starting to think springs and/or needles. Can any of you running these carbs tell me which springs and needles you're running? I got these carbs from Jeff at Paltech so I'll be getting hold of him as well. Oh, and FWIW I'm also at about 4000' altitude. From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sat Apr 23 17:42:24 2011 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 16:42:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs References: <5029F279-10CF-48E0-8137-BE62A3D3D468@lbcs.ca> Message-ID: I could not get rid of the stumble right off idle. New plugs, reset the valve lash, new dizzy cap, rotor, plug leads, points. Timing was spot on, mixture seemed to be a little lean so I richened up the mixture a bit--could not get rid of it. Changed the air filter elements--problem vanished. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave More" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 12:46 PM Subject: [6pack] SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs >I have some HS6's on my car and the car runs well with them with the >exception > of a bit of a minor stumble off idle. Mixture is correct, the carbs are > balanced, dashpot oil is the correct level, so I'm starting to think > springs > and/or needles. > > Can any of you running these carbs tell me which springs and needles > you're > running? > > I got these carbs from Jeff at Paltech so I'll be getting hold of him as > well. > > Oh, and FWIW I'm also at about 4000' altitude. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net From v.navarrette at comcast.net Sat Apr 23 19:13:03 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:13:03 -0700 Subject: [6pack] SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs In-Reply-To: <5029F279-10CF-48E0-8137-BE62A3D3D468@lbcs.ca> References: <5029F279-10CF-48E0-8137-BE62A3D3D468@lbcs.ca> Message-ID: <000301cc021c$c30c6110$49252330$@navarrette@comcast.net> Dave: First of all, have you read your plugs? Make sure that your mixture is correct - the plug insulator should be the color of corrugated cardboard. Be sure to check the plugs for BOTH carbs (i.e. each carb feeds three cylinders, so make sure you check a cylinder from each carb). Use a color tune if you have one. DO NOT use the "lift the slide" test, as it will be incorrect if the camshaft is not stock - and cams are often not stock having been changed by a previous owner. If your insulator is white or nearly white, your mixture is too lean, and you are getting a lean miss. Second, have you checked your ignition timing? Disconnect the vacuum retard, and set the timing at 10 BTDC using a timing light. I recommend this method because the method in Bentley will not work if the vacuum diaphragm in your vacuum capsule has perished, which they all have by now unless they have been replaced in the recent past. If the above is correct, let me ask this; Is it a stumble or a miss? Stumble off of idle means that the mixture is not going rich enough, so a high viscosity oil in the dashpots is probably in order. A miss would be a slightly different symptom and cure. If it is a miss, check the following: Set your dwell using a dwell meter. If your dwell is incorrect, you can get a miss (ask me how I know). Next, try a different set of plug wires. The standard plug wires are resistor wires, and the resistance climbs as the wire ages, leading to an intermittent miss. Next on the list, try a new set of plugs. I had a resistor plug go bad, and a new plug corrected the miss (you can see that I have seen engine miss several times on various cars over the years). Last item to check - make sure that the spring loaded carbon pin in the center of the dizzy cap is making good contact with the rotor. I had my TR6 develop a miss because the spring that pushes the pin down on the dizzy rotor was weak, and I got intermittent contact with the rotor. I suspect that the rotor may have been a bit shorter than needed, or the cap was a replacement cap that had a pin that was a bit shorter than the OEM cap. Dunno. But I know that I stretched the spring that pushes the pin against the rotor, and the miss went away. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave More Sent: Saturday, April 23, 2011 12:47 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs I have some HS6's on my car and the car runs well with them with the exception of a bit of a minor stumble off idle. Mixture is correct, the carbs are balanced, dashpot oil is the correct level, so I'm starting to think springs and/or needles. Can any of you running these carbs tell me which springs and needles you're running? I got these carbs from Jeff at Paltech so I'll be getting hold of him as well. Oh, and FWIW I'm also at about 4000' altitude. From v.navarrette at comcast.net Sat Apr 23 19:23:30 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2011 18:23:30 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] TR6 Engine Failure In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901cc021e$38dfd790$aa9f86b0$@navarrette@comcast.net> Try these guys: http://www.cbperformance.com/catalog.asp?ProductID=172 Vance -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco Sent: Friday, April 22, 2011 3:30 PM To: fot at autox.team.net, Subject: Re: [6pack] [Fot] TR6 Engine Failure Thanks for the feedback on this engine failure. Does anyone out there have a source for the teflon piston pin buttons that were discussed. I remember a thread a while back regarding these. I do have a lathe but no teflon stock just nylatron and I'm not sure the material properties of nylatron would survive engine temps. It would be more cost effective to purchase these rather than make them. Thanks in advance Glenn Numerous Triumphs, they keep multiplying On 4/21/2011 6:14 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 24 00:01:27 2011 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 06:01:27 GMT Subject: [6pack] SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs Message-ID: Dave---I would be curious to know if the engine performs well (without the hesitation off-idle) when the car is closer to sea level. In any case, you could advance the spark timing to see if this helps, as driving at high altitude allows for more timing without pinging. Try 14 deg. BTDC at idle. No vacuum connected during this setting, and idle speed slowed to 900 rpm or lower. Thicker dashpot oil will slow down the raising of the needles coming off idle, for less stumble. You could also turn down the jets a couple of flats or more, and do a test drive. If it makes the hesitation more pronounced, go the other way with this adjustment. Needles slimmer, just off the idle stage, are available. If you don't have the SU needle selection book, let me know the number that's stamped on you needles, and I'll look up something that could help. Try the above suggestions first, though. It's cheaper, and quicker! Dick From aljlthomson at charter.net Sun Apr 24 11:42:23 2011 From: aljlthomson at charter.net (Alex&Janet Thomson) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:42:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Cam Message-ID: To the Lists - I am replacing a camshaft in a '73 TR-6 which had two lobes extremely worn and one lobe nearly gone. Disappointing since this cam has only about 10,000 miles of use. The cam lobes that were still good looking had a lift of about 0.240" but it is now history. I purchased a new camshaft from TRF, part # 307621/GP, which is described as a new, chilled iron, stock cam. I am not looking for any performance upgrades that would require re-working of the head or other components. Before installing the new cam, I dial-indicated the lifts for each lobe and was surprised that they are only 0.213". Is this the actual specification for a stock cam? I did look at the results of a survey that Ray Hatfield send out in October but felt that most cam upgrades would result in a power band at a higher rpm than I'm looking for, hence the stock TRF item. Any suggestions? Alex Thomson From tr6 at lbcs.ca Sun Apr 24 13:07:47 2011 From: tr6 at lbcs.ca (tr6 at lbcs.ca) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 13:07:47 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: RE: SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs Message-ID: <20110424130747.164399qoth4eaxab@lbcs.ca> Thanks for all the responses on my stumble. To your question Vance, it's definitely a stumble, almost like a small pop rather than a miss. On the theory that 90% of carburetion problems are electrical I've verified that all of the ignition components are sound. By the way I'm running Pertronix so points are taken out of the equation. I've set the timing by vacuum, and although it's showing about 20 BTDC it seems to run well so it could be wear in an older engine (timing chain or damper) that's giving an inaccurate reading. I've also gone to 30W in the dashpots from 10W/30. The stumble seems to have been reduced a bit so I'll drive it for a while and then reassess it to see what else needs to be done. -- Cheers, Dave From ms6453 at optonline.net Sun Apr 24 13:34:03 2011 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sun, 24 Apr 2011 15:34:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: RE: SU HS6 on TR6 Needles & Springs In-Reply-To: <20110424130747.164399qoth4eaxab@lbcs.ca> References: <20110424130747.164399qoth4eaxab@lbcs.ca> Message-ID: <1D40EA7B-F152-4E4E-B2CE-5411D0E1C805@optonline.net> Hi Dave , In order to further validate that 90% of carburetor problems are electrical, remove the Petronix. You wouldn't be the first to have problems with that unit. Also check your rotor phasing. I had a similar problem a few years ago and in my case it turned out my significantly retarded. Mitch Seff Oceanside, NY 75 TR6 SC On Apr 24, 2011, at 3:07 PM, tr6 at lbcs.ca wrote: > Thanks for all the responses on my stumble. To your question Vance, it's definitely a stumble, almost like a small pop rather than a miss. > > On the theory that 90% of carburetion problems are electrical I've verified that all of the ignition components are sound. By the way I'm running Pertronix so points are taken out of the equation. > > I've set the timing by vacuum, and although it's showing about 20 BTDC it seems to run well so it could be wear in an older engine (timing chain or damper) that's giving an inaccurate reading. > > I've also gone to 30W in the dashpots from 10W/30. > > The stumble seems to have been reduced a bit so I'll drive it for a while and then reassess it to see what else needs to be done. > -- > Cheers, > Dave > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ms6453 at optonline.net From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 24 22:18:26 2011 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg and Renee) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 00:18:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Cam In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000501cc02ff$d35104c0$79f30e40$@net> Alex, Looks like what you have is a stock profile for an early 6 at .220". If the lobes on your old cam are .240" then the profile is correct for a late 6 (73-76). Also, new tappets are an absolute must whenever the cam is replaced. I would highly recommend hardened tappets. http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6cams.html Greg Dito CD6250L Chapel Hill, NC -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex&Janet Thomson Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 1:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack List Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Cam To the Lists - I am replacing a camshaft in a '73 TR-6 which had two lobes extremely worn and one lobe nearly gone. Disappointing since this cam has only about 10,000 miles of use. The cam lobes that were still good looking had a lift of about 0.240" but it is now history. I purchased a new camshaft from TRF, part # 307621/GP, which is described as a new, chilled iron, stock cam. I am not looking for any performance upgrades that would require re-working of the head or other components. Before installing the new cam, I dial-indicated the lifts for each lobe and was surprised that they are only 0.213". Is this the actual specification for a stock cam? I did look at the results of a survey that Ray Hatfield send out in October but felt that most cam upgrades would result in a power band at a higher rpm than I'm looking for, hence the stock TRF item. Any suggestions? Alex Thomson From v.navarrette at comcast.net Mon Apr 25 11:34:02 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 10:34:02 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Cam In-Reply-To: <000501cc02ff$d35104c0$79f30e40$@net> References: <000501cc02ff$d35104c0$79f30e40$@net> Message-ID: <000601cc036e$f8700ac0$e9502040$@navarrette@comcast.net> Alex: It looks like you are going backwards in terms of performance. Your new cam is the earlier, lower performance stock cam, intended for use with a higher compression ratio (at least 8.5:1). Your current cam seems to be the later cam, which is a higher performance profile, intended to replace lost power due to the lower compression ratio in the later motors (as low as 7.7:1). I recommend the later cam (256 adv duration) rather than the earlier cam (240 adv duration) for performance. While the earlier cam will get you a slightly better idle and fuel economy, the differences are extremely small. Both cams have a very smooth idle. It sounds like your DPO tossed in the later cam to get some performance, and boffed the install, resulting in some flat lobes. I suggest that since you are going to all that trouble, you put in the later cam rather than going back the to the earlier cam, even though your car came originally with the earlier cam. Vance ---------------------------------- -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alex&Janet Thomson Sent: Sunday, April 24, 2011 1:42 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack List Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Cam To the Lists - I am replacing a camshaft in a '73 TR-6 which had two lobes extremely worn And one lobe nearly gone. Disappointing since this cam has only about 10,000 Miles of use. The cam lobes that were still good looking had a lift of about 0.240" but it is now history. I purchased a new camshaft from TRF, part # 307621/GP, which is described as a new, chilled iron, stock cam. I am not looking for any performance upgrades that would require re-working of the head or other components. Before installing the new cam, I dial-indicated the lifts for each lobe and was surprised that they are only 0.213". Is this the actual specification for a stock cam? I did look at the results of a survey that Ray Hatfield send out in October but felt that most cam upgrades would result in a power band at a higher rpm than I'm looking for, hence the stock TRF item. Any suggestions? Alex Thomson _______________________________________________ From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Apr 25 13:46:07 2011 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 12:46:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] I just need to share Message-ID: <119273.87653.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I love winter - I really do. But this season of record snowfalls has gone on forever (we had flurries on Saturday) even for Vermont standards. But Easter morning broke clear and dry, with temps projected to hit 60. Lots of rain the past week had washed away the the white haze (read: salt) on the roads. Brunch with my best girl in a small village 25 miles down a twisty road was calling. It was time. FIRST CAR RIDE OF THE SEASON BABY! There... I feel much better now. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF 18928 5-speed From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Apr 25 13:59:44 2011 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 12:59:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... Message-ID: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> The weather in Central Missouri has been decidedly un-LBC friendly. The only sun we get are on Mondays or when it's 40 degrees. The effect of that is it gives one way too much time to ponder possibilities. In this case I'm pondering exactly how extreme a car can be. Has there ever been a Jag V12 lump conversion for our cars? Yeah, I know that V8's are well researched and fit well. But since I've owned a 96 XJ12, there is nothing like the sound of smoothness of a Jag V12. Plus there's the "OMIGOD!" factor when the bonnot is lifted. I'm not ready to pull the trigger by any means, but when the kids get through college ... well, you never know. What say ye? Jim From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Apr 25 15:07:04 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:07:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... In-Reply-To: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I saw this '62 Sprite with a straight 6 3.8L jag engine in it at The British Invasion a few years ago so why not a V-12! You can see the Sprite about 1/2 way down this page (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Stowe.htm) I think Hemmings did an article on it last year. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 3:59 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... The weather in Central Missouri has been decidedly un-LBC friendly. The only sun we get are on Mondays or when it's 40 degrees. The effect of that is it gives one way too much time to ponder possibilities. In this case I'm pondering exactly how extreme a car can be. Has there ever been a Jag V12 lump conversion for our cars? Yeah, I know that V8's are well researched and fit well. But since I've owned a 96 XJ12, there is nothing like the sound of smoothness of a Jag V12. Plus there's the "OMIGOD!" factor when the bonnot is lifted. I'm not ready to pull the trigger by any means, but when the kids get through college ... well, you never know. What say ye? Jim From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Apr 25 15:19:40 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:19:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... In-Reply-To: References: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CDD1A59BF9C718-1A94-24F1F@webmail-m142.sysops.aol.com> I acquired a TR250 that had it's last engine as a JAGUAR V12. It was a race car since new. What were they thinking? Firewall was carved out to fit the engine and the drive shaft was hardly a foot long. It was awful! Dont ask...it is gone. -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Jim Jones ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Apr 25, 2011 4:07 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] too much time to think... I saw this '62 Sprite with a straight 6 3.8L jag engine in it at The British Invasion a few years ago so why not a V-12! You can see the Sprite about 1/2 way down this page (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Stowe.htm) I think Hemmings did an article on it last year. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 3:59 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... The weather in Central Missouri has been decidedly un-LBC friendly. The only sun we get are on Mondays or when it's 40 degrees. The effect of that is it gives one way too much time to ponder possibilities. In this case I'm pondering exactly how extreme a car can be. Has there ever been a Jag V12 lump conversion for our cars? Yeah, I know that V8's are well researched and fit well. But since I've owned a 96 XJ12, there is nothing like the sound of smoothness of a Jag V12. Plus there's the "OMIGOD!" factor when the bonnot is lifted. I'm not ready to pull the trigger by any means, but when the kids get through college ... well, you never know. What say ye? Jim _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Apr 25 15:34:35 2011 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:34:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... In-Reply-To: References: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 25 Apr 2011, Bob Danielson wrote: > I saw this '62 Sprite with a straight 6 3.8L jag engine in it at The British > Invasion a few years ago so why not a V-12! You can see the Sprite about 1/2 > way down this page (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Stowe.htm) I think > Hemmings did an article on it last year. The 700 LB mass of the over 5 liter Jag V12 is a bit of a problem... But, if you build one, they can make stinkin' big numbers. There's one up my way punched out to over 6 liters and he makes over 600 ft/lb of torque! It's in an E-type body, of course. But the weight of the V12 is a pretty big deterrent in my book. > Bob regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent Former NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Apr 25 15:58:52 2011 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 14:58:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... In-Reply-To: <8CDD1A59BF9C718-1A94-24F1F@webmail-m142.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <697445.59098.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> So it was pretty ummm.... beastly??? Sorry. I had to ask! :o) Jim From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Apr 25 16:07:05 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 18:07:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] I just need to share In-Reply-To: <119273.87653.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <119273.87653.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <99196C34D483456CBF33490CCA67AFE6@BobPC> You're ahead of me Joe............I just got the engine/tranny back in two weeks ago and I've been plodding along putting everything else back on/in. Today was the hood, grill, shroud & dash support. All that's left is the radio and seats. Our spring has been so cold and rainy that it really hasn't mattered and I haven't been very motivated...........just as well as I've been busy making interior panel sets for people. Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Joe Merone Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 3:46 PM To: Triumph List ; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] I just need to share I love winter - I really do. But this season of record snowfalls has gone on forever (we had flurries on Saturday) even for Vermont standards. But Easter morning broke clear and dry, with temps projected to hit 60. Lots of rain the past week had washed away the the white haze (read: salt) on the roads. Brunch with my best girl in a small village 25 miles down a twisty road was calling. It was time. FIRST CAR RIDE OF THE SEASON BABY! There... I feel much better now. Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF 18928 5-speed ______________________________________________ From v.navarrette at comcast.net Mon Apr 25 18:54:22 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 17:54:22 -0700 Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... In-Reply-To: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301cc03ac$7c9c2d50$75d487f0$@navarrette@comcast.net> Jim: I would think that the GM 60 degree V6 would be a good choice. If you get the 3500 cc version you have 220 HP stock, fuel injection, variable valve timing, electronic ignition, and no sheet metal work required to fit it. You can get 5 speeds dirt cheap for them too. Add a mild cam and cold air, you could have 250 HP with the same weight as stock. The GM 60 degree V6 is narrow enough that it is a drop in except for some custom motor mounts. No need to trim the battery box, and the motors are a dime a dozen since GM has made millions of them. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 1:00 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... Has there ever been a Jag V12 lump conversion for our cars? Yeah, I know that V8's are well researched and fit well. But since I've owned a 96 XJ12, there is nothing like the sound of smoothness of a Jag V12. Plus there's the "OMIGOD!" factor when the bonnot is lifted. Jim From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Apr 25 20:34:46 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 25 Apr 2011 22:34:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... In-Reply-To: <000301cc03ac$7c9c2d50$75d487f0$@navarrette@comcast.net> References: <103480.80252.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000301cc03ac$7c9c2d50$75d487f0$@navarrette@comcast.net> Message-ID: <8CDD1D1A40ABFE9-2208-9683@Webmail-m110.sysops.aol.com> seems like a great choice and likely lighter too, eh? -----Original Message----- From: Vance Navarrette To: 'Jim Jones' ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Apr 25, 2011 7:54 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] too much time to think... Jim: I would think that the GM 60 degree V6 would be a good choice. If you get the 3500 cc version you have 220 HP stock, fuel injection, variable valve timing, electronic ignition, and no sheet metal work required to fit it. You can get 5 speeds dirt cheap for them too. Add a mild cam and cold air, you could have 250 HP with the same weight as stock. The GM 60 degree V6 is narrow enough that it is a drop in except for some custom motor mounts. No need to trim the battery box, and the motors are a dime a dozen since GM has made millions of them. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Monday, April 25, 2011 1:00 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] too much time to think... Has there ever been a Jag V12 lump conversion for our cars? Yeah, I know that V8's are well researched and fit well. But since I've owned a 96 XJ12, there is nothing like the sound of smoothness of a Jag V12. Plus there's the "OMIGOD!" factor when the bonnot is lifted. Jim _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From j.honor at comcast.net Tue Apr 26 17:27:07 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 18:27:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] sheared valve keeper Message-ID: <004301cc0469$7613fb80$623bf280$@comcast.net> I am meeting with my mechanic who discovered today one of my valve keepers was sheared off and found in the oil sump! we're checking on the valves pulling valve cover but this may be unlikely-a close call if true. any expereince with this? This email message and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s). They are confidential and may contain protected health information that is exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the above named intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver this email to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, disclosure, printing, copying, or distribution of this email or attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by telephone or reply email and destroy this email and any attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. From v.navarrette at comcast.net Tue Apr 26 19:37:18 2011 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2011 18:37:18 -0700 Subject: [6pack] sheared valve keeper In-Reply-To: <004301cc0469$7613fb80$623bf280$@comcast.net> References: <004301cc0469$7613fb80$623bf280$@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301cc047b$a5b39500$f11abf00$@navarrette@comcast.net> Sounds like a valve spring stacked solid or the retainer was hitting the top of the valve guide. Something did not have enough clearance, so the rocker pushed down on the valve hard enough to shear a keeper. Check your retainer to guide clearance, and make sure that your springs have at least 0.010" between each coil at maximum valve lift. It probably makes sense to inspect all your keepers as well, to make sure none of the others have been damaged. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Honor Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 4:27 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] sheared valve keeper I am meeting with my mechanic who discovered today one of my valve keepers was sheared off and found in the oil sump! we're checking on the valves pulling valve cover but this may be unlikely-a close call if true. any expereince with this? From j.honor at comcast.net Wed Apr 27 09:27:15 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 10:27:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] sheared valve keeper In-Reply-To: <000301cc047b$a5b39500$f11abf00$@navarrette@comcast.net> References: <004301cc0469$7613fb80$623bf280$@comcast.net> <000301cc047b$a5b39500$f11abf00$@navarrette@comcast.net> Message-ID: <005801cc04ef$96f03040$c4d090c0$@comcast.net> Ok I think problem is now understood & solved. Fortunately there were no missing valve keepers once I removed valve cover. My valve head was rebuilt 6 years ago. I suspect that during the valve spring adjustment etc. & testing this keeper sheared off. The mechanic either couldn't locate it or since all was OK stopped looking for it-either way-it was in a safe place-bottom of my sump. The springs etc. are all OK as well. Thanks per usual from great thoughts, insights, & intrigue. regards, Joe This email message and any attachments are for the sole use of the intended recipient(s). They are confidential and may contain protected health information that is exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If you are not the above named intended recipient, or the employee or agent responsible to deliver this email to the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any use, disclosure, printing, copying, or distribution of this email or attachments is strictly prohibited. If you have received this email in error, please immediately notify the sender by telephone or reply email and destroy this email and any attachments. Please consider the environment before printing this email. -----Original Message----- From: Vance Navarrette [mailto:v.navarrette at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 8:37 PM To: 'Joe Honor'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] sheared valve keeper Sounds like a valve spring stacked solid or the retainer was hitting the top of the valve guide. Something did not have enough clearance, so the rocker pushed down on the valve hard enough to shear a keeper. Check your retainer to guide clearance, and make sure that your springs have at least 0.010" between each coil at maximum valve lift. It probably makes sense to inspect all your keepers as well, to make sure none of the others have been damaged. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Honor Sent: Tuesday, April 26, 2011 4:27 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] sheared valve keeper I am meeting with my mechanic who discovered today one of my valve keepers was sheared off and found in the oil sump! we're checking on the valves pulling valve cover but this may be unlikely-a close call if true. any expereince with this? From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed Apr 27 17:14:40 2011 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 16:14:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? Message-ID: <181883.89761.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> What a coincidence. I dropped my oil pan last night to fix a couple of stripped bolt holes. The one in aluminum at the front causing a serious oil leak. Helicoils required I presume. I have 5/16 NC helicoil kit from trailing arm repairs. Anyways, I found what looks like part of a tiny metal washer in the sump along with a few tiny metal chunks. Not sure if this is part of a valve keeper or whatever? Head was professionally re-built and upgraded about 7 years ago. About 3 years ago we had the sump off to install new thrust washers and didn't find anything too unusual. Advice/recommendations? Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 27 17:38:30 2011 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 19:38:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? In-Reply-To: <181883.89761.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <181883.89761.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201104271938.31638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday, April 27, 2011 07:14:40 pm Bruce Simms wrote: > What a coincidence. I dropped my oil pan last night to fix a couple of > stripped bolt holes. The one in aluminum at the front causing a serious > oil leak. Helicoils required I presume. I have 5/16 NC helicoil kit > from trailing > arm repairs. > > Anyways, I found what looks like part of a tiny metal > washer in the sump along > with a few tiny metal chunks. Not sure if this is > part of a valve keeper or > whatever? > > > Head was professionally re-built and > upgraded about 7 years ago. About 3 years > ago we had the sump off to > install new thrust washers and didn't find anything > too unusual. > Advice/recommendations? > > Thank you, > > Bruce Simms > 73 TR6 > _______________________________________________ Bruce, Check your rocker shaft. there is a bolt that sometimes come loose and falls in the sump. As far as the front mounting plate, replace it with a steel one. There is a guy in CT. that makes them and they go for about 75 $. I did it when I rebuilt my 6 last year. Cant remember his name but he puts them on ebay from time to time. If you are a member of the 6 pack forum, try a search and I am sure you will find the seller. Bob From j.honor at comcast.net Wed Apr 27 17:45:32 2011 From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor) Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 18:45:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? In-Reply-To: <181883.89761.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <181883.89761.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Interesting the bits that seem to collect in our sumps! The keeper is very distinctive conical shape could be washer from valve that dropped through oil drain in head anything missing sheared off rods or valve area? Regards Joe Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone On Apr 27, 2011, at 6:14 PM, Bruce Simms wrote: > What a coincidence. I dropped my oil pan last night to fix a couple of > stripped bolt holes. The one in aluminum at the front causing a serious oil > leak. Helicoils required I presume. I have 5/16 NC helicoil kit from > trailing > arm repairs. > > Anyways, I found what looks like part of a tiny metal > washer in the sump along > with a few tiny metal chunks. Not sure if this is > part of a valve keeper or > whatever? > > > Head was professionally re-built and > upgraded about 7 years ago. About 3 years > ago we had the sump off to > install new thrust washers and didn't find anything > too unusual. > Advice/recommendations? > > Thank you, > > Bruce Simms > 73 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Apr 27 17:55:12 2011 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 19:55:12 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? In-Reply-To: <201104271938.31638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <181883.89761.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <201104271938.31638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Marc Goldblatt makes the steel saddle. I just put one in my car a few weeks ago. Perfect fir and so far no leaks. His web site is http://www.classic-technologies.com/sealing-block.php Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Bob Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 7:38 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: Bruce Simms Subject: Re: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? On Wednesday, April 27, 2011 07:14:40 pm Bruce Simms wrote: > What a coincidence. I dropped my oil pan last night to fix a couple of > stripped bolt holes. The one in aluminum at the front causing a serious > oil leak. Helicoils required I presume. I have 5/16 NC helicoil kit > from trailing > arm repairs. > > Anyways, I found what looks like part of a tiny metal > washer in the sump along > with a few tiny metal chunks. Not sure if this is > part of a valve keeper or > whatever? > > > Head was professionally re-built and > upgraded about 7 years ago. About 3 years > ago we had the sump off to > install new thrust washers and didn't find anything > too unusual. > Advice/recommendations? > > Thank you, > > Bruce Simms > 73 TR6 > _______________________________________________ Bruce, Check your rocker shaft. there is a bolt that sometimes come loose and falls in the sump. As far as the front mounting plate, replace it with a steel one. There is a guy in CT. that makes them and they go for about 75 $. I did it when I rebuilt my 6 last year. Cant remember his name but he puts them on ebay from time to time. If you are a member of the 6 pack forum, try a search and I am sure you will find the seller. Bob _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Apr 27 19:26:21 2011 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 27 Apr 2011 21:26:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? In-Reply-To: References: <181883.89761.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com><201104271938.31638.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <8CDD35A6A1B6D16-1CD8-199EB@Webmail-m125.sysops.aol.com> seems like a great approach and wonder if the TR3/TR4 is not a candidate for a steel block with new seal design. the current design is awful. joe a -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Bob ; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: Bruce Simms Sent: Wed, Apr 27, 2011 6:55 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? Marc Goldblatt makes the steel saddle. I just put one in my car a few weeks ago. Perfect fir and so far no leaks. His web site is http://www.classic-technologies.com/sealing-block.php Bob Bob Danielson http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 1975 TR6 with: Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed Nissan Diff & CVJs -----Original Message----- From: Bob Sent: Wednesday, April 27, 2011 7:38 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: Bruce Simms Subject: Re: [6pack] Tiny part found in oil sump? On Wednesday, April 27, 2011 07:14:40 pm Bruce Simms wrote: > What a coincidence. I dropped my oil pan last night to fix a couple of > stripped bolt holes. The one in aluminum at the front causing a serious > oil leak. Helicoils required I presume. I have 5/16 NC helicoil kit > from trailing > arm repairs. > > Anyways, I found what looks like part of a tiny metal > washer in the sump along > with a few tiny metal chunks. Not sure if this is > part of a valve keeper or > whatever? > > > Head was professionally re-built and > upgraded about 7 years ago. About 3 years > ago we had the sump off to > install new thrust washers and didn't find anything > too unusual. > Advice/recommendations? > > Thank you, > > Bruce Simms > 73 TR6 > _______________________________________________ Bruce, Check your rocker shaft. there is a bolt that sometimes come loose and falls in the sump. As far as the front mounting plate, replace it with a steel one. There is a guy in CT. that makes them and they go for about 75 $. I did it when I rebuilt my 6 last year. Cant remember his name but he puts them on ebay from time to time. If you are a member of the 6 pack forum, try a search and I am sure you will find the seller. Bob _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com