From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Wed Sep  1 09:06:13 2010
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 01 Sep 2010 11:06:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Connecticut Triumph Register 30th Annual Show
Message-ID: <8CD17FE5A435662-D98-16C58@webmail-d059.sysops.aol.com>

The Connecticut Triumph Register invites everyone to its 30th Annual British
Motorcar Gathering and Picnic. Sunday, September 12th, 2010 at Wickham Park,
Manchester, CT Exit 60 off of I-84, follow the signs. All makes, models and
conditions of British motorcars and motorcycles are invited to participate in
the fun. For more info, updates and registration form go to www.CTRiumph.com
Venue: www.wickhampark.org

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Wed Sep  1 10:07:40 2010
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 09:07:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Rota RB Wheels - Recommendations?
Message-ID: <748023.50958.qm@web65616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

These whees are offered on Ebay for TR6, 240, 260Z.   16x7, +4 offset.   To
my inexperienced eye they look like the Pannasports.
Several finish colour
options.  Price of  about $500/set of four  + shipping is 
attractive compared
to Pannasports. I have a built up street car, and, its time 
for some new
rubber as tires are 12+ years old.   Original steel wheels.

Any comments or
recommendations?  

Thank you,
Bruce Simms

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Sep  1 15:46:15 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 17:46:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rota RB Wheels - Recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <748023.50958.qm@web65616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <748023.50958.qm@web65616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BB4126C481D245DF8A2F698174121D39@laptopPC>

I've had Panasports on my car for almost 12 years now and am waiting for the 
new VTO wheels from ACME Speed. Check them out http://www.acmespeedshop.com/ 
The TR6 wheels will be available in October.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 running with
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bruce Simms" <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 12:07 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Rota RB Wheels - Recommendations?

> These whees are offered on Ebay for TR6, 240, 260Z.   16x7, +4 offset. 
> To
> my inexperienced eye they look like the Pannasports.
> Several finish colour
> options.  Price of  about $500/set of four  + shipping is
> attractive compared
> to Pannasports. I have a built up street car, and, its time
> for some new
> rubber as tires are 12+ years old.   Original steel wheels.
>
> Any comments or
> recommendations?
>
> Thank you,
> Bruce Simms
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Sep  1 16:08:20 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 18:08:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
In-Reply-To: <1657990637.747027.1283309492032.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1657990637.747027.1283309492032.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A53A836470C249D3A06C04BD277572FB@M4A>

> I have 74 TR6, currently I have no problem with what I consider the 
> dreaded starter lockout due to mind of own seat belt interface module. I 
> know having down this before a couple of years ago- placed a jumper on the 
> seat belt module I think on pin # 11 & 12 thereby cutting out this 
> daterderly circuit. let me know your thoughts. Don Master book references 
> connecting WR and WO wires to otain similar results-I think? welcome your 
> thoughts and solution to this prior to my upcoming roadtrip. regards, Joe


What happens if you just unplug the module? 

From j.honor at comcast.net  Wed Sep  1 16:28:47 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 17:28:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
In-Reply-To: <A53A836470C249D3A06C04BD277572FB@M4A>
References: <1657990637.747027.1283309492032.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<A53A836470C249D3A06C04BD277572FB@M4A>
Message-ID: <3C5A4A2C-3A25-45FE-A508-B114E3E6BF72@comcast.net>

Thanks yes that's what I vaguely recall and don's book does specify tying
those 2 which would be pin 11/12 Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 1, 2010, at 5:08 PM, "Jeff" <fishplate at charter.net> wrote:

>> I have 74 TR6, currently I have no problem with what I consider the dreaded
starter lockout due to mind of own seat belt interface module. I know having
down this before a couple of years ago- placed a jumper on the seat belt
module I think on pin # 11 & 12 thereby cutting out this daterderly circuit.
let me know your thoughts. Don Master book references connecting WR and WO
wires to otain similar results-I think? welcome your thoughts and solution to
this prior to my upcoming roadtrip. regards, Joe
>
>
> What happens if you just unplug the module?

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Wed Sep  1 18:34:32 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 17:34:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
In-Reply-To: <A53A836470C249D3A06C04BD277572FB@M4A>
Message-ID: <ABF07BBCA9E94239BEADB57844DFEBDC@HOMEBREW1>

	Jeff:

	No start.

	Vance	

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff
Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 3:08 PM
To: j.honor at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock


> I have 74 TR6, currently I have no problem with what I consider the 
> dreaded starter lockout due to mind of own seat belt interface module.



What happens if you just unplug the module? 

From j.honor at comcast.net  Wed Sep  1 19:26:27 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 20:26:27 -0500
Subject: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
In-Reply-To: <ABF07BBCA9E94239BEADB57844DFEBDC@HOMEBREW1>
References: <ABF07BBCA9E94239BEADB57844DFEBDC@HOMEBREW1>
Message-ID: <675CBB02-95F8-486E-BCCA-5F88281AA19E@comcast.net>

Vance what?

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 1, 2010, at 7:34 PM, "Vance Navarrette" <v.navarrette at comcast.net>
wrote:

>    Jeff:
>
>    No start.
>
>    Vance
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Jeff
> Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 3:08 PM
> To: j.honor at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
>
>
>> I have 74 TR6, currently I have no problem with what I consider the
>> dreaded starter lockout due to mind of own seat belt interface module.
>
>
>
> What happens if you just unplug the module?
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net

From ikorey at comcast.net  Wed Sep  1 19:55:20 2010
From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 20:55:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
In-Reply-To: <675CBB02-95F8-486E-BCCA-5F88281AA19E@comcast.net>
References: <ABF07BBCA9E94239BEADB57844DFEBDC@HOMEBREW1>
	<675CBB02-95F8-486E-BCCA-5F88281AA19E@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimm5eDFVPfA2s0x=BZeYPcCCS5GoE2FqUY3Y4az@mail.gmail.com>

Joe,

What Vance so eloquently stated is that if you just unplug the module, the
car won't start. You're better off jumpering the wires.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (module wires jumpered)
Highland Park, IL

On Wed, Sep 1, 2010 at 8:26 PM, Joe Honor <j.honor at comcast.net> wrote:

> Vance what?
>
> Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 1, 2010, at 7:34 PM, "Vance Navarrette" <v.navarrette at comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> >    Jeff:
> >
> >    No start.
> >
> >    Vance
> >
> > -----Original Message-----
> > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
> > On Behalf Of Jeff
> > Sent: Wednesday, September 01, 2010 3:08 PM
> > To: j.honor at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> > Subject: Re: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
> >
> >
> >> I have 74 TR6, currently I have no problem with what I consider the
> >> dreaded starter lockout due to mind of own seat belt interface module.
> >
> >
> >
> > What happens if you just unplug the module?
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/emanteno at gmail.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Sep  2 11:03:45 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:03:45 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
Message-ID: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>

Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium  
which I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because of various  
factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the  
biggest increase I've ever seen from them and I've had them since  
2000. I'm looking to see if a better deal is out there for classic car  
insurance.  Anyone getting better rates or at least not a 14% increase  
from one year to the next.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Sep  2 11:37:56 2010
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:37:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>

  I am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty, 
Leland, Grundy
and the like....

I simply took my Six to a local reputable classic vehicle assessor and 
took his assessment
document to my State Farm agent who insures all my other cars, too. He 
promptly wrote me
a comprehensive policy for the full appraised value of the car. I'm not 
sure I see the benefit
offered by "classic" car insurance companies. Seems like fancy wrappings 
for a rather generic
product (car insurance) giving them a pretext upon which to charge a 
premium for their premiums!

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


On 9/2/2010 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium 
> which I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because of various 
> factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the 
> biggest increase I've ever seen from them and I've had them since 
> 2000. I'm looking to see if a better deal is out there for classic car 
> insurance.  Anyone getting better rates or at least not a 14% increase 
> from one year to the next.
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Sep  2 12:12:28 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 14:12:28 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
Message-ID: <41daf.16d1f8b7.39b1430c@aol.com>

Dave / Bud,
 
My experience was that the specialty insurance companies offer premiums  
that are a fraction of daily-driver policies. Most are agreed-value policies  
instead of Actual Cash Value. My household and daily-driver agent's proposal 
was  about 2.5 times the rate of my Hagerty. The specialty companies can 
keep rates  low because they're banking on very low annual mileage and the 
fact that  collector's cars are typically garaged, pampered, and only see sunny 
days, for  the most part. A 14% increase on my $200 Hagerty is still a 
bargain, although  I'm not happy about the increase either. Additionally, my 
Hagerty agent is a  major motorhead and promotes our hobby aggresively. Not 
sure what my regular  agent promotes.
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6
 
In a message dated 9/2/2010 1:53:40 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
forzion at maine.rr.com writes:

I  am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty,  
Leland, Grundy
and the like....

I simply took my Six to a local  reputable classic vehicle assessor and 
took his assessment
document to  my State Farm agent who insures all my other cars, too. He 
promptly wrote  me
a comprehensive policy for the full appraised value of the car. I'm not  
sure I see the benefit
offered by "classic" car insurance companies.  Seems like fancy wrappings 
for a rather generic
product (car insurance)  giving them a pretext upon which to charge a 
premium for their  premiums!

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


On 9/2/2010 1:03 PM,  Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over  last years premium 
> which I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates  go up because of various 
> factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to  raise rates) but this is the 
> biggest increase I've ever seen from  them and I've had them since 
> 2000. I'm looking to see if a better  deal is out there for classic car 
> insurance.  Anyone getting  better rates or at least not a 14% increase 
> from one year to the  next.
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6  CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
>  66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support  Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit  Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>  _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu Sep  2 12:18:52 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:18:52 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net><4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <1662749567-1283451509-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1546259163-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I believe that State Farm "farms" out the value or comp part to companies like Hagerty.  Or at least that is what my SF agent told me.  

My Hagerty policy is $240 a year less than the SF quote for the same liability / UM levels, I didn't have to pay for an appraisal and I have 50 mile flatbed service not offered by SF included. Sadly to say with agreed value my 6 is worth more dead than alive ;-). 

I do have SF on all my other cars and happy wit them too.  

As they say, YMMV but that is what I found when I researched it.  

Lou
-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander <forzion at maine.rr.com>
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 13:37:56 
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Reply-To: forzion at maine.rr.com
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??

  I am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty, 
Leland, Grundy
and the like....

I simply took my Six to a local reputable classic vehicle assessor and 
took his assessment
document to my State Farm agent who insures all my other cars, too. He 
promptly wrote me
a comprehensive policy for the full appraised value of the car. I'm not 
sure I see the benefit
offered by "classic" car insurance companies. Seems like fancy wrappings 
for a rather generic
product (car insurance) giving them a pretext upon which to charge a 
premium for their premiums!

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


On 9/2/2010 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium 
> which I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because of various 
> factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the 
> biggest increase I've ever seen from them and I've had them since 
> 2000. I'm looking to see if a better deal is out there for classic car 
> insurance.  Anyone getting better rates or at least not a 14% increase 
> from one year to the next.
>
> Thanks
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Thu Sep  2 12:23:17 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:23:17 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6AB8C563D93E47C580867FF01B3F9D48@HOMEBREW1>

	Bud:

	Is your car appreciating? That is, did the agreed upon value of
the car go up? If so, the premium will go up as well.

	Hagerty raised the agreed value of my car at least once in the
last few years, stating that the value of the car had risen. The change
was modest, so I went with it without comment. They did notify me of the
increase ahead of time.

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 10:04 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??


Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium  
which I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because of various  
factors (excuses by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the  
biggest increase I've ever seen from them and I've had them since  
2000. I'm looking to see if a better deal is out there for classic car  
insurance.  Anyone getting better rates or at least not a 14% increase  
from one year to the next.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Thu Sep  2 12:28:58 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 11:28:58 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty rip off?
In-Reply-To: <4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <035FF984FF594BB7B4E69656F4A3566A@HOMEBREW1>

	My experience was exactly the opposite.

	My agent wanted to write a regular policy for my car, costing in
excess of $500/year. I asked if there was any way to get a reduction,
since the car was only driven in fair weather, and was not my daily
driver. He said the only policy he offered was a collector policy, which
only permitted the car to be driven to and from car events such as shows
and parades.

	Hagerty issued a declared value policy for less than $150/year
with a couple of provisions:

	1. Car is stored indoors
	2. No teen drivers
	3. Not my daily driver
	4. Car is at least 25 years old

	No annual mileage limit and I did not need an appraisal. I
thought Hagerty was a screamin' deal.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 10:38 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??


  I am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty,

Leland, Grundy
and the like....

I simply took my Six to a local reputable classic vehicle assessor and 
took his assessment
document to my State Farm agent who insures all my other cars, too. He 
promptly wrote me
a comprehensive policy for the full appraised value of the car. I'm not 
sure I see the benefit
offered by "classic" car insurance companies. Seems like fancy wrappings

for a rather generic
product (car insurance) giving them a pretext upon which to charge a 
premium for their premiums!

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Thu Sep  2 13:08:07 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 15:08:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
	<4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <5F64EB05-657B-4E80-BC64-4BDBFAC1B3C1@blakedischer.com>

Hi Bud,

Even with the increase, I am insuring my TR6 AND Stag for $286 (combined) per
year with Hagerty.  It was much less expensive than State Farm or Allstate,
the others I checked out.  Hagerty is a valuable friend to the collectible car
hobby in general, and VTR (and smaller Triumph car clubs) in particular.  They
also do great advocacy work in various States with regard to proposed
legislation effecting older automobiles that comes up from time to time.

Best regards,
Blake



On 9/2/2010 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium
> which I'm very unhappy about.

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Thu Sep  2 13:20:53 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 15:20:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
	<4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <C6D0778B-9252-42BC-86E5-A39106AF1E13@blakedischer.com>

Hi Bud,

Even with the increase, I am insuring my TR6 AND Stag for $286 (combined) per
year with Hagerty.  It was much less expensive than State Farm or Allstate,
the others I checked out.  Hagerty is a valuable friend to the collectible car
hobby in general, and VTR (and smaller Triumph car clubs) in particular.  They
also do great advocacy work in various States with regard to proposed
legislation effecting older automobiles that comes up from time to time.

Best regards,
Blake



On 9/2/2010 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium
> which I'm very unhappy about.

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Thu Sep  2 15:14:53 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:14:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
Message-ID: <001501cb4ae3$e30665b0$a9133110$@net>

Bud Rolofson wrote:

> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium 

> which I'm very unhappy about. 

 

I took an AARP-sponsored defensive driving course earlier this year 

and Hagerty reduced my comprehensive and collision by 10% this year 

and for the next two years.   

 

David Friedlander wrote: 

> I am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty,
Leland, Grundy and the like....

 

 I understand saving money. My 'regular' insurance company wanted over
$700/year

to insure my TR6 and would not agree to a $17K stated value policy. I get
that 

through Hagerty for $203/yr and it's not a bare bones, minimum policy.

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U 

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Sep  2 15:36:52 2010
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 17:36:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <C6D0778B-9252-42BC-86E5-A39106AF1E13@blakedischer.com>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
	<4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
	<C6D0778B-9252-42BC-86E5-A39106AF1E13@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <4C8018F4.3060305@maine.rr.com>

  My TR6 costs me $147 a year with full collision coverage and insured 
for the
full appraised value. Granted, I can't drive it more than 7,500 
miles/year but,
since it's registered here in Maine as an Antique Vehicle and is not my 
daily
driver, that 'limitation' is not a problem. Having multiple cars insured 
with
State Farm (as well as homeowner's insurance) has yielded me some good
discounts.... Haven't had a rate increase in some time, either...

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


On 9/2/2010 3:20 PM, Blake J. Discher wrote:
> Hi Bud,
>
> Even with the increase, I am insuring my TR6 AND Stag for $286 (combined) per
> year with Hagerty.  It was much less expensive than State Farm or Allstate,
> the others I checked out.  Hagerty is a valuable friend to the collectible car
> hobby in general, and VTR (and smaller Triumph car clubs) in particular.  They
> also do great advocacy work in various States with regard to proposed
> legislation effecting older automobiles that comes up from time to time.
>
> Best regards,
> Blake
>
>
>
> On 9/2/2010 1:03 PM, Bud Rolofson wrote:
>> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium
>> which I'm very unhappy about.

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Sep  2 15:58:54 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 17:58:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009021757260.18164@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 2 Sep 2010, Bud Rolofson wrote:

> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium which I'm 
> very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because of various factors (excuses 
> by the Ins. industry to raise rates) but this is the biggest increase I've 
> ever seen from them and I've had them since 2000.

It couldn't be due to all the advertising that they're doing on TV.

Nope - no way.

:-)

Tongue firmly in cheek.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu Sep  2 16:01:33 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:01:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BDAB7F7027E54513AC3736081692FC0A@M4A>

> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years premium  which 
> I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because of various  factors

Bud, have you called Hagerty to ask them why it went up? I've got my TR-6 
and Spitfire both with Hagerty (originally issued via my Farm Bureau agent) 
and the price has remained the same for three years running.

If it went up, there ought to be a simple explanation.

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga. 

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Sep  2 16:40:32 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:40:32 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <BDAB7F7027E54513AC3736081692FC0A@M4A>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
	<BDAB7F7027E54513AC3736081692FC0A@M4A>
Message-ID: <DDF6330B-706D-488E-84BC-263401F3C446@comcast.net>

List, thanks for all your input.

No claims or tickets.  Went from $194 to $222 in one year with the  
same $22k replacement value.  That's over a 14% increase with no  
changes.  Talked to them and they responded with all the fine things  
they do and benefits of Hagerty and on and on, but  I said I thought I  
was already getting all those fine things the year before with the  
$194 premium and was happy.  I said so you're telling me I now have to  
pay 14% more for the same thing with no additional benefits?  They  
then claimed they restructured their rates and Colorado came out a bit  
(14% is a lot in my book) higher.  I know how insurance works and they  
may be justified because of claims and losses (they thought it was  
mostly MG drivers that were to blame...just kidding) but that's not  
going to keep me from railing at them about it, after all I'm retired  
and don't have anything better to do ;)

I will look into some of the suggested alternatives, thanks.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Sep 2, 2010, at 4:01 PM, Jeff wrote:

>> Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years  
>> premium  which I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because  
>> of various  factors
>
> Bud, have you called Hagerty to ask them why it went up? I've got my  
> TR-6 and Spitfire both with Hagerty (originally issued via my Farm  
> Bureau agent) and the price has remained the same for three years  
> running.
>
> If it went up, there ought to be a simple explanation.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From levilevi at comcast.net  Thu Sep  2 16:48:40 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 16:48:40 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
Message-ID: <3D40EAAC-DDEB-4AE3-A032-AF736AC8D09D@comcast.net>

Not expired either.  I have another week left.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Sep 2, 2010, at 4:46 PM, spook01 at comcast.net wrote:

> I know hagarty has frozen pricing for folks,who have a policy. If  
> you have an expired one.....Hmmmm!
>
> Sent from my Verizon Wireless Phone
>
> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Jeff" <fishplate at charter.net>
> Date: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 17:01
> Subject: [TR] [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
> To: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>,  
> <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <6pack at autox.team.net>
>
> > Hagerty has raised my premium by almost 14% over last years  
> premium  which > I'm very unhappy about.  I know rates go up because  
> of various  factors
>
> Bud, have you called Hagerty to ask them why it went up? I've got my  
> TR-6 and Spitfire both with Hagerty (originally issued via my Farm  
> Bureau agent) and the price has remained the same for three years  
> running.
>
> If it went up, there ought to be a simple explanation.
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Sep  2 17:17:03 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 18:17:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [SPAM] Re:  Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
References: <584F9172-7F83-45EC-81B7-605CA81327E8@comcast.net>
	<4C7FE0F4.4000000@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <50608DFBE72C4F91A7A18857DEC34A27@ranteer.local>

hmm.  benefit.  let me see.  about $100 per year, no deductible, full
coverage.  for that much money a local insurance agent won't even return my
phone calls . . .

and yes, I've used hagerty for years, filed several claims, couldn't be 
happier.

the reason I picked hagerty years ago was that they were the only one who 
would allow an under 25 driver to drive the car, with an adult riding 
shotgun.  no other company would allow it all.

--------------------------------------------------
From: "David Friedlander" <forzion at maine.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 12:37 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [SPAM] Re: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??

>  I am not sure I understand the benefit of using insurers like Hagerty,
> Leland, Grundy
> and the like....

From dhbrealestate at gmail.com  Thu Sep  2 18:29:39 2010
From: dhbrealestate at gmail.com (Donald Baum)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 17:29:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6
Message-ID: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>

Hello knowledgeable ones,

Curious as to value of a #s matching,  wire rimmed, original 69 TR6 that is
in very good condition.  Car refurbished/ Engine rebuilt 1000 miles ago by
NorCal British car specialist shop and runs great, Strombergs and all.  Did
add aftermarket oil pan feed line to valves, petronix ignition, flame
thrower coil, #2 camshaft, mostly new rubber gaskets everywhere, CD stereo,
Pirelli's and new bumpers around (still have originals w/bumper guards and
69 trunk rack), new soft top (still has original top down car cover and
bikini top cover) and original color repaint (TRG)-repaint is top notch and,
with new bumpers, looks showroom new.  Everything works except the fan
(*#$^&#^%!!).  Could be a show car with some more love/$, but right now our
sunny Sunday cruiser out to dinner.  No rust.  Odometer reads about 37500
which we assume is 137,500.  Car is an early 69 (built in Dec 68) so has the
split high bucket seats and the 69-only frame seam "bead line" from cabin to
trunk in the back.  Car may be for sale shortly and we are seeking some
valuation help; we can send pictures if desired and greatly appreciate the
community insight!

DB

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Sep  2 20:03:21 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 20:03:21 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6
In-Reply-To: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
References: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
Message-ID: <4C805769.7050707@bradakis.com>

Donald Baum wrote:
> Curious as to value of a #s matching

What, exactly, do you mean by numbers matching?
> Car is an early 69 (built in Dec 68)
>    
Back a couple of decades ago I had CC25064LO.  Wish I
still had that car.  Actually the windshield frame lives on
as it is now affixed to the Killer Spit.

mjb.

From dave at ranteer.com  Thu Sep  2 20:13:09 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Thu, 2 Sep 2010 21:13:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] rear view mirror
In-Reply-To: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
References: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
Message-ID: <B63B5E0231C74D588D7E1AF0722813AB@ranteer.local>

Am I the only klutz here?  tonight, admittedly I am very tired - been doing 
a lot of physical work today - I went to put something on the dash after 
driving it and I hit the rear view mirror.  popped right off.

how are these attached?  how do I put it back on? 

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Sep  2 21:09:02 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 23:09:02 -0400
Subject: [6pack] rear view mirror
In-Reply-To: <B63B5E0231C74D588D7E1AF0722813AB@ranteer.local>
References: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
	<B63B5E0231C74D588D7E1AF0722813AB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <8CD192C7E765B0F-27C0-85F0@webmail-m100.sysops.aol.com>

no you are not the only klutz... but i am a clairvoyant klutz.

i was building a rollaround platform for my three Triumphs.

i made note of the position my leg was in and thought to myself:

"i am going to hit my shin with the hammer"

i made a couple of hits and sure enough, i did.

platform turned out very well.

modified wood pallet with four castor wheels.

low cost and very effective...wonder why i didnt do this earlier








-----Original Message-----
From: dave <dave at ranteer.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Sep 2, 2010 9:13 pm
Subject: [6pack] rear view mirror


Am I the only klutz here? tonight, admittedly I am very tired - been doing a
lot of physical work today - I went to put something on the dash after driving
it and I hit the rear view mirror. popped right off.

how are these attached? how do I put it back on?
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From mark at bradakis.com  Thu Sep  2 21:24:05 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Thu, 02 Sep 2010 21:24:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] rear view mirror
In-Reply-To: <B63B5E0231C74D588D7E1AF0722813AB@ranteer.local>
References: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
	<B63B5E0231C74D588D7E1AF0722813AB@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4C806A55.1080408@bradakis.com>

It is a breakaway type mirror mounting.  The screws that attach
the mirror to the windscreen frame go through two beveled rubber
washers, I guess you could call them.  These rubber bits tend to
shrink over time.  I once had a pair that were so far gone the mirror
would fall out if I hit any sort of substantial bump in the road.

Not sure if these bits are still readily available from the various
suppliers.

mjb.

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Sep  2 23:48:11 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 05:48:11 GMT
Subject: [6pack] rear view mirror
Message-ID: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>

Dave---The stem of the mirror is dovetailed into the bracket that is screwed into the windshield frame. Remove one of the end screws and slide off the end piece. Slip the mirror stem into the open end, and replace the end piece and it's screw. If the mirror wobbles even when the screw(s) are snug, add some thin strips of metal to make things tighter. (Cut up a beer/soda can, if you don't have shim stock).  If all else fails, I think you can still get new bracket from TRF.

Dick

From mikejneal at cox.net  Fri Sep  3 05:46:59 2010
From: mikejneal at cox.net (Mike Neal)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 06:46:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] rear view mirror
References: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <95527F8574F2488FB68A8420F16C0A8E@mikeab59c04f3e>

You can get just the mounting bracket, mirror, or the entire unit from 
Victoria British.  I just had the same problem.

Mike
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: <dave at ranteer.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 12:48 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] rear view mirror


> Dave---The stem of the mirror is dovetailed into the bracket that is 
> screwed into the windshield frame. Remove one of the end screws and slide 
> off the end piece. Slip the mirror stem into the open end, and replace the 
> end piece and it's screw. If the mirror wobbles even when the screw(s) are 
> snug, add some thin strips of metal to make things tighter. (Cut up a 
> beer/soda can, if you don't have shim stock).  If all else fails, I think 
> you can still get new bracket from TRF.
>
> Dick
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mikejneal at cox.net
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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13:50:00

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Sep  3 10:01:26 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 09:01:26 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6
References: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
	<4C805769.7050707@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <000801cb4b81$46a34280$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

>From what I have read the factory started building the 1969 TR6s in late
1968.
I have papers showing my TR6 was first registered as new in 1971 and the VIN
# shows it to be 1970 production.
That's the way it was done.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6


> Donald Baum wrote:
> > Curious as to value of a #s matching
>
> What, exactly, do you mean by numbers matching?
> > Car is an early 69 (built in Dec 68)
> >
> Back a couple of decades ago I had CC25064LO.  Wish I
> still had that car.  Actually the windshield frame lives on
> as it is now affixed to the Killer Spit.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Fri Sep  3 07:49:46 2010
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 09:49:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6
In-Reply-To: <000801cb4b81$46a34280$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
References: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
	<4C805769.7050707@bradakis.com>
	<000801cb4b81$46a34280$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <6670c9dcd0fe.4c80c4ba@wright.edu>

Back in the day, late 50's early 60's, if you had a car left over at model year change you ... sent the MSO back to the distributor. They sent you a new one with the car being a year newer and the car never left the showroom. Ask me how I know.

Bill
'70  6 original owner

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Date: Friday, September 3, 2010 9:29 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6
To: Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com>, 6pack at autox.team.net

> >From what I have read the factory started building the 1969 
> TR6s in late
> 1968.
> I have papers showing my TR6 was first registered as new in 1971 
> and the VIN
> # shows it to be 1970 production.
> That's the way it was done.
> Regards,
> Bob

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Fri Sep  3 08:40:27 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 10:40:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
Message-ID: <000001cb4b75$f3b4a470$db1ded50$@net>

Bud wrote:

>they restructured their rates and Colorado came out a bit (14% is a lot in
my book) higher.

 

   You could move.   ; - )

 

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Fri Sep  3 10:20:37 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 09:20:37 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
In-Reply-To: <41daf.16d1f8b7.39b1430c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <232FDF746D1148B8B90FE813FE7F626A@HOMEBREW1>

	Vic:

	This raises an interesting question. I purchased Hagerty
directly over the web (no agent).

	It seems you went through an agent to purchase your Hagerty
Policy.

	I have not seen an increase, others have (My declared value is
lower, $15k if I recall).

	Is this the difference? Go through an agent, get a price
increase?

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Vsnively at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 11:12 AM
To: forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??


Dave / Bud,
 
My experience was that the specialty insurance companies offer premiums

that are a fraction of daily-driver policies. Most are agreed-value
policies  
instead of Actual Cash Value. My household and daily-driver agent's
proposal 
was  about 2.5 times the rate of my Hagerty. The specialty companies can

keep rates  low because they're banking on very low annual mileage and
the 
fact that  collector's cars are typically garaged, pampered, and only
see sunny 
days, for  the most part. A 14% increase on my $200 Hagerty is still a 
bargain, although  I'm not happy about the increase either.
Additionally, my 
Hagerty agent is a  major motorhead and promotes our hobby aggresively.
Not 
sure what my regular  agent promotes.
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6

From dhbrealestate at gmail.com  Fri Sep  3 10:55:05 2010
From: dhbrealestate at gmail.com (Donald Baum)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 09:55:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6
In-Reply-To: <000801cb4b81$46a34280$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
References: <001501cb4aff$1aaad3f0$50007bd0$@com>
	<4C805769.7050707@bradakis.com>
	<000801cb4b81$46a34280$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <001101cb4b88$c2cbe950$4863bbf0$@com>

By "#'s matching" I mean my British Motor Industry Heritage Trust
Certificate (these guys have archived most production data by chassis # for
several British cars and sell Heritage certificates for your car's unique
production information) shows the engine and frame are all as-assembled
parts #s in December 1968, i.e., the engine is the original engine that came
with the original frame.     

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob [mailto:rpeglow at optonline.net] 
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 9:01 AM
To: Mark J Bradakis; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6

>From what I have read the factory started building the 1969 TR6s in late
1968.
I have papers showing my TR6 was first registered as new in 1971 and the VIN
# shows it to be 1970 production.
That's the way it was done.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:03 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6


> Donald Baum wrote:
> > Curious as to value of a #s matching
>
> What, exactly, do you mean by numbers matching?
> > Car is an early 69 (built in Dec 68)
> >
> Back a couple of decades ago I had CC25064LO.  Wish I
> still had that car.  Actually the windshield frame lives on
> as it is now affixed to the Killer Spit.
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Sep  3 14:43:59 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 13:43:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6
Message-ID: <000a01cb4ba8$bcc2c0e0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Vintage Triumph Register does not show clarity between 1970's and 1971 TR6.
Bob

 > http://www.vtr.org/TR6/TR6-production.shtml
>       Year      >      Chassis Numbers
 
 
>       1969             >      CC25000 to CC32141
>       1970             >      CC50001 to ??
>       1971             >      ?? to CC67893
>       1972             >      CC75001 to CC85737

 
 
 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Mark J Bradakis" <mark at bradakis.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 7:03 PM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Values on 69 TR6
> 
> 
> > Donald Baum wrote:
> > > Curious as to value of a #s matching
> >
> > What, exactly, do you mean by numbers matching?
> > > Car is an early 69 (built in Dec 68)
> > >
> > Back a couple of decades ago I had CC25064LO.  Wish I
> > still had that car.  Actually the windshield frame lives on
> > as it is now affixed to the Killer Spit.
> >
> > mjb.
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> > Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Sep  3 13:47:42 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:47:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers
Message-ID: <1ce0e1.42464585.39b2aadd@aol.com>

Just as a side issue for the value of a 69 TR6.  As the numbers  
demonstrate the 69 Six had a production run of what, 7,141 cars.  Perhaps  the rarest 
TR? Or would that be the TR5?  Everyone speaks of the  rarity of the TR250 
but there were 8,884 of those correct?  I always wanted  a 69 Six for this 
reason not to mention the cool one year only  components. Speaking of cool, if 
one has a 69 one can join Jim Halewka,  Jeff Rust and the rest of the 69 
Six Trials gang and get one of the very cool 69  TR6 jackets that they all 
wear.
Cheers,
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 9/3/2010 2:11:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
rpeglow at optonline.net writes:

>       1969           >      CC25000 to CC32141
>     1970             >   CC50001 to ??
>       1971   >      ?? to  CC67893
>       1972         >      CC75001 to  CC85737

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Fri Sep  3 14:35:35 2010
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:35:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers
In-Reply-To: <1ce0e1.42464585.39b2aadd@aol.com>
References: <1ce0e1.42464585.39b2aadd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY143-W2F5EDC62979056ACDC840C68D0@phx.gbl>

Huh? Rare? Not really.

They only made 2700 or so TR8s.
Way rarer than the TR6. In any year.

TR8 coupes are even more scarce. Under 400 made, under 200 surviving...

And like it or not it's still a TR.


> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:47:42 -0400
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers
>
> Just as a side issue for the value of a 69 TR6. As the numbers
> demonstrate the 69 Six had a production run of what, 7,141 cars. Perhaps the
rarest
> TR? Or would that be the TR5? Everyone speaks of the rarity of the TR250
> but there were 8,884 of those correct? I always wanted a 69 Six for this
> reason not to mention the cool one year only components. Speaking of cool,
if
> one has a 69 one can join Jim Halewka, Jeff Rust and the rest of the 69
> Six Trials gang and get one of the very cool 69 TR6 jackets that they all
> wear.
> Cheers,
> Darrell
>
>
> In a message dated 9/3/2010 2:11:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rpeglow at optonline.net writes:
>
> > 1969 > CC25000 to CC32141
> > 1970 > CC50001 to ??
> > 1971 > ?? to CC67893
> > 1972 > CC75001 to CC85737
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alanatkinson at hotmail.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Sep  3 14:43:05 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:43:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers
In-Reply-To: <1ce0e1.42464585.39b2aadd@aol.com>
References: <1ce0e1.42464585.39b2aadd@aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009031640290.7661@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 3 Sep 2010 TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:

> Just as a side issue for the value of a 69 TR6.  As the numbers
> demonstrate the 69 Six had a production run of what, 7,141 cars.  Perhaps  the rarest
> TR? Or would that be the TR5?  Everyone speaks of the  rarity of the TR250
> but there were 8,884 of those correct?

I think if you look at the numbers, the late PI RHD TR6 (CRxxxxx) are the 
most rare TR6's. There's less than 5,000 for sure and I think the numbers 
are actually less than 3,000.

But I agree, early TR6's are kool.

regards,
rml
CF14111U - driver
CR1871UO - race car
CC27777U - partZ

From jrhauser at sea-dog.net  Fri Sep  3 14:59:19 2010
From: jrhauser at sea-dog.net (jrhauser )
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 16:59:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers
In-Reply-To: <BAY143-W2F5EDC62979056ACDC840C68D0@phx.gbl>
References: <1ce0e1.42464585.39b2aadd@aol.com>
	<BAY143-W2F5EDC62979056ACDC840C68D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004d01cb4baa$e0e2e200$a2a8a600$@net>

Ok..I'll take one of each!



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alan Atkinson
Sent: 2010-09-03 16:36
To: tr250driver at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers

Huh? Rare? Not really.

They only made 2700 or so TR8s.
Way rarer than the TR6. In any year.

TR8 coupes are even more scarce. Under 400 made, under 200 surviving...

And like it or not it's still a TR.


> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 15:47:42 -0400
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers
>
> Just as a side issue for the value of a 69 TR6. As the numbers
> demonstrate the 69 Six had a production run of what, 7,141 cars. Perhaps
the
rarest
> TR? Or would that be the TR5? Everyone speaks of the rarity of the TR250
> but there were 8,884 of those correct? I always wanted a 69 Six for this
> reason not to mention the cool one year only components. Speaking of cool,
if
> one has a 69 one can join Jim Halewka, Jeff Rust and the rest of the 69
> Six Trials gang and get one of the very cool 69 TR6 jackets that they all
> wear.
> Cheers,
> Darrell
>
>
> In a message dated 9/3/2010 2:11:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> rpeglow at optonline.net writes:
>
> > 1969 > CC25000 to CC32141
> > 1970 > CC50001 to ??
> > 1971 > ?? to CC67893
> > 1972 > CC75001 to CC85737
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alanatkinson at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jrhauser at sea-dog.net

From Vsnively at aol.com  Fri Sep  3 15:13:21 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 17:13:21 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
Message-ID: <119325.e185aa0.39b2bef1@aol.com>

Vance, 
 
Honestly don't know. Sounds logical. As in Bud's case, it may be a state  
issue. I'm in Ohio, perhaps our claim rate was higher last year than the  
national average ??
 
Thanks,
Vic
 
 
In a message dated 9/3/2010 12:20:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
v.navarrette at comcast.net writes:

Vic:

This raises an interesting question. I  purchased Hagerty
directly over the web (no agent).

It  seems you went through an agent to purchase your  Hagerty
Policy.

I have not seen an increase, others  have (My declared value is
lower, $15k if I recall).

Is this the difference? Go through an agent, get a  price
increase?

Vance

-----Original  Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of  Vsnively at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 11:12 AM
To:  forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hagerty Car  Ins. up 14%??


Dave / Bud,

My experience was that the  specialty insurance companies offer premiums

that are a fraction of  daily-driver policies. Most are agreed-value
policies  
instead of  Actual Cash Value. My household and daily-driver agent's
proposal  
was  about 2.5 times the rate of my Hagerty. The specialty companies  can

keep rates  low because they're banking on very low annual  mileage and
the 
fact that  collector's cars are typically garaged,  pampered, and only
see sunny 
days, for  the most part. A 14%  increase on my $200 Hagerty is still a 
bargain, although  I'm not  happy about the increase either.
Additionally, my 
Hagerty agent is  a  major motorhead and promotes our hobby aggresively.
Not 
sure  what my regular  agent promotes.

Regards,
Vic Snively
'75  TR6

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Sep  3 19:31:48 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 03 Sep 2010 18:31:48 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??
References: <119325.e185aa0.39b2bef1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000801cb4bd0$f1b876f0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

July 2010 renewal in NY, no change in coverage or premium on Hagerty.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Vsnively at aol.com>
To: <v.navarrette at comcast.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, September 03, 2010 2:13 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hagerty Car Ins. up 14%??


> Vance,
>
> Honestly don't know. Sounds logical. As in Bud's case, it may be a state
> issue. I'm in Ohio, perhaps our claim rate was higher last year than the
> national average ??
>
> Thanks,
> Vic
>
>
> In a message dated 9/3/2010 12:20:44 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> v.navarrette at comcast.net writes:
>
> Vic:
>
> This raises an interesting question. I  purchased Hagerty
> directly over the web (no agent).
>
> It  seems you went through an agent to purchase your  Hagerty
> Policy.
>
> I have not seen an increase, others  have (My declared value is
> lower, $15k if I recall).
>
> Is this the difference? Go through an agent, get a  price
> increase?
>
> Vance
>
> -----Original  Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of  Vsnively at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, September 02, 2010 11:12 AM
> To:  forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Hagerty Car  Ins. up 14%??
>
>
> Dave / Bud,
>
> My experience was that the  specialty insurance companies offer premiums
>
> that are a fraction of  daily-driver policies. Most are agreed-value
> policies
> instead of  Actual Cash Value. My household and daily-driver agent's
> proposal
> was  about 2.5 times the rate of my Hagerty. The specialty companies  can
>
> keep rates  low because they're banking on very low annual  mileage and
> the
> fact that  collector's cars are typically garaged,  pampered, and only
> see sunny
> days, for  the most part. A 14%  increase on my $200 Hagerty is still a
> bargain, although  I'm not  happy about the increase either.
> Additionally, my
> Hagerty agent is  a  major motorhead and promotes our hobby aggresively.
> Not
> sure  what my regular  agent promotes.
>
> Regards,
> Vic Snively
> '75  TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Sep  3 17:38:59 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:38:59 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] 69 TR6 value/production numbers
Message-ID: <1db89d.26cd9331.39b2e113@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/3/2010 4:37:08 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
alanatkinson at hotmail.com writes:

Huh?  Rare? Not really.

They only made 2700 or so TR8s.
Way  rarer than the TR6. In any year.
Yes forgive  me,
I even own a Poseidon  Green 1980 TR8 with Carburetors.  I knew that!  
Still the 69 TR6  being the last of the Hairy Chested TR's and perhaps arguably 
the rarest has  value.
Cheers,
Darrell 

From janah at att.net  Fri Sep  3 17:49:15 2010
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Fri, 3 Sep 2010 19:49:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6
Message-ID: <74463FAF2E194245A962434D83CACF2E@p4home>

<snip> Vintage Triumph Register does not show clarity between 1970's and 
1971 TR6.
Bob <snip>

You are right about that.  In fact "none" of the published commission number 
lists are correct or complete. The changes btw the 1970 and 1971 North 
American spec model year were slight so Triumph used a continuous run of 
serial numbers for those 2 years.  However the break point between the 2 
years is now known and will be published.

CC58297L was the last car of the 1970 model year and the first car of the 
1971 model year was CC58298L.  By the way the Rossi & Clarke book is wrong.

John Cyg

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Sep  4 09:01:03 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 08:01:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6
References: <74463FAF2E194245A962434D83CACF2E@p4home>
Message-ID: <002501cb4c41$fe6c0b70$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Thanks John,
I saw 1970-1971 VIN dates somewhere also. Not sure where I found them so I
did not want to quote them.
My car CC581__L has a build date of 28 October 1970 as per the British Motor
Heritage Trust folks.
Original title as a 1971 car in Ohio in 1971.
Regards,
Bob


> <snip> Vintage Triumph Register does not show clarity between 1970's and
> 1971 TR6.
> Bob <snip>
>
> You are right about that.  In fact "none" of the published commission
number
> lists are correct or complete. The changes btw the 1970 and 1971 North
> American spec model year were slight so Triumph used a continuous run of
> serial numbers for those 2 years.  However the break point between the 2
> years is now known and will be published.
>
> CC58297L was the last car of the 1970 model year and the first car of the
> 1971 model year was CC58298L.  By the way the Rossi & Clarke book is
wrong.
>
> John Cyg

From dramsey11 at windstream.net  Sat Sep  4 07:45:23 2010
From: dramsey11 at windstream.net (Darrell Ramsey)
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 09:45:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6
In-Reply-To: <002501cb4c41$fe6c0b70$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
References: <74463FAF2E194245A962434D83CACF2E@p4home>
	<002501cb4c41$fe6c0b70$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <00BF4F52CC234E1B976CC200E29E1EC1@Dadlaptop>

To confuse things further, states sometime considered when a car was sold 
new, not when it was built, when designating its model year.

I have CC55985 built in July 1970, titled by Ohio, where it sold new in Jan 
71, as a 1971.  Go figure.


> My car CC581__L has a build date of 28 October 1970 as per the British 
> Motor
> Heritage Trust folks.
> Original title as a 1971 car in Ohio in 1971.
> Regards,
> Bob

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Sep  4 11:45:11 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 04 Sep 2010 10:45:11 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6
References: <74463FAF2E194245A962434D83CACF2E@p4home>
	<002501cb4c41$fe6c0b70$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
	<00BF4F52CC234E1B976CC200E29E1EC1@Dadlaptop>
Message-ID: <000601cb4c58$ecb4b550$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Thank you, very interesting.
Mine CC58110 end of October and yours July - CC55985 says the factory put
out 2125 or so cars in about 4 months.
BTW my car was sold September 1971.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Darrell Ramsey" <dramsey11 at windstream.net>
To: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>; "John Cyganowski" <janah at att.net>;
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 6:45 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6


> To confuse things further, states sometime considered when a car was sold
> new, not when it was built, when designating its model year.
>
> I have CC55985 built in July 1970, titled by Ohio, where it sold new in
Jan
> 71, as a 1971.  Go figure.
>
>
> > My car CC581__L has a build date of 28 October 1970 as per the British
> > Motor
> > Heritage Trust folks.
> > Original title as a 1971 car in Ohio in 1971.
> > Regards,
> > Bob

From ron at rvar.net  Sat Sep  4 10:01:31 2010
From: ron at rvar.net (ron)
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:01:31 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Early TR6???
Message-ID: <AF8FEE27E0774BE2AB798D1B5CED1CCC@RVAR>

Well, I can't hold off any longer, I have an early TR6 or TR250/6?? The ID tag
on the front inner fender says it was built on April 1, 1968. I bought it from
the original owner in Taos N.M. The Number is CC26881 which seems to indicate
a late 68 or early 69 or someone is playing a joke on everyone who checks the
plate.

Ron
P.S. It looks like an original commission plate.

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Sat Sep  4 11:20:28 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 13:20:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6
Message-ID: <60EFE072-F30F-4830-BDF0-CD6AD074A1BD@nc.rr.com>

John,
Re: "CC58297L was the last car of the 1970 model year and the first car of the
1971 model year was CC58298L."

Do you have a source ref we can use when somebody asks,
"Oh, yeah? How do you know."
Thanks,

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Sat Sep  4 11:57:57 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 13:57:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer saga after-action report
Message-ID: <D0BE11F6-B5FD-48BF-BCDF-3AA601C6DB32@nc.rr.com>

Interesting FYI. I have been chasing a ghost (i.e. expected) electrical
gremlin all year. Seems that every once in a while, the top fuse ('74
turn-signals etc.) blows for no apparent reason. Put an ohmmeter on the fuse
output, and everything looks fine, no short, a few ohms won't blow a 35-amp
fuse. New fuse in, turn ignition power on, and ... everything's fine again.
Dang! Got me a consarned intermittent. Drive more. Then ... *fssst* fuse
blows. Aha! Maybe whatever it is hard-failed this time. [measure measure]
Nope, no short. All's fine. Rats! New fuse in, turn ignition power on, and ...
*fssst* fuse blows. Oh, now, what the Sam Hill ?! Plenty of resistance in the
downstream circuit with power off, so no short. Fuse blows with power. Rinse,
repeat.
[insert saga of hours of poring over schematics, fiddling with electrical
thingies, and ordering more fuses]
Result? *drumroll* [opens envelope]
The old-style mechanical voltage stabilizer (that's the little whatzis module
mounted to the back of the speedometer housing that provides a constant
reference voltage for the temp & fuel gauges) went from intermittent short to
hard short, but only when power was applied. In hindsight, it should've been
obvious.

Reason I bring this up is that the new voltage stabilizers are solid-state, so
they're not prone to shorting that circuit out.
Oh, yes, you have to pull the speedo to replace it; so if you're ever fiddling
with your speedo (don't say it), just replace that old-style voltage
stabilizer with a new, solid-state one.
Your hands and sanity will thank you.

[deleted: long tirade on the parentage of the engineer who decided to mount
that ... thing ... on the back of the speedo, one of the places my size-13
hands can't get to without loss of skin and loosening at least one unrelated
connector on something else]

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat Sep  4 13:44:13 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 12:44:13 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 1970 vs. 1971 TR6
In-Reply-To: <002501cb4c41$fe6c0b70$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
References: <74463FAF2E194245A962434D83CACF2E@p4home>
	<002501cb4c41$fe6c0b70$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <a06240800c8a851be5a6e@[192.168.2.3]>

Rosey has a build date of November 1970 , VIN CC59179L


>Thanks John,
>I saw 1970-1971 VIN dates somewhere also. Not sure where I found them so I
>did not want to quote them.
>My car CC581__L has a build date of 28 October 1970 as per the British Motor
>Heritage Trust folks.
>Original title as a 1971 car in Ohio in 1971.
>Regards,
>Bob

-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
anabil007 at comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Sat Sep  4 18:17:08 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 17:17:08 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer saga after-action report
In-Reply-To: <D0BE11F6-B5FD-48BF-BCDF-3AA601C6DB32@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <94425DD9A448434DAFB373B59692C50E@HOMEBREW1>

	Doug:

	Thanks, but too late. I went blind last year after fiddling with
my speedo...

	Perhaps others will heed your warning before it is too late.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Douglas Morris
Sent: Saturday, September 04, 2010 10:58 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Voltage Stabilizer saga after-action report


<snip>

so if you're ever fiddling with your speedo (don't say it)...

<snip>

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep  5 12:32:59 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 13:32:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [SPAM] Re:  rear view mirror
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <74F7EDF339FF457DB7C95088E600C044@ranteer.local>

ahh, I wish all things TR were so simple.

the instructions provided did indeed work, and the mirror is back on.

thank you to everyone who responded!!!!! 

From saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk  Sun Sep  5 12:45:15 2010
From: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk (Derek)
Date: Sun, 5 Sep 2010 19:45:15 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Early TR6
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1283623202.21306.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1283623202.21306.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001601cb4d2a$7b1aa4e0$714feea0$@co.uk>

Ron,

The early commission plates did indeed state April 1, 1968 however this was
not a build date like on the later 1970 model post CC50001 commission
plates. The date on your plate is the date when the vehicle complied with
the applicable Federal Safety Standards. Later 1969 TR6 stated January 1,
1969 as the date when the vehicle complied with the applicable Federal
Safety Standards. I have attached copies of three images which will
hopefully explain the differences, apologies to the rest of 6pack who won't
be able to see the images.

Cheers

Derek 

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 4 Sep 2010 11:01:31 -0500
From: "ron" <ron at rvar.net>
Subject: [6pack] Early TR6???
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AF8FEE27E0774BE2AB798D1B5CED1CCC at RVAR>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Well, I can't hold off any longer, I have an early TR6 or TR250/6?? The ID
tag
on the front inner fender says it was built on April 1, 1968. I bought it
from
the original owner in Taos N.M. The Number is CC26881 which seems to
indicate
a late 68 or early 69 or someone is playing a joke on everyone who checks
the
plate.

Ron
P.S. It looks like an original commission plate.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of CC25098L.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of CC29356L.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of CC51217L.jpg]

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  6 23:03:25 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 05:03:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
Message-ID: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>

Hey team,
I rolled up 50000 this afternoon and the dang thing stuck there, halting the
trip meter also. I fiddled with the trip reset, but still stuck. Anybody have
a 'been there done that' tip? As mentioned in the other thread, I too hate to
have to remove that speedo.

Sloane :)
69-Six - just home from an engine rebuild.

From george_loriot at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  7 04:41:35 2010
From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot)
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 06:41:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT144-w632AAA33E875ED433859FA8E710@phx.gbl>

Hi there, I had a similar experience, several times, and each time it stuck at
a 'ten thousand mile' time.  Here's the lazy way that worked every time:
keep driving and wait.
I kept driving, and after a few hundred miles or so it fixed itself.  this
happened several times, at perhaps 50000, 70000, and 100000.It didn't happen
at the next 10000 (which is actually 110000), so I expect it'll happen at
20000 just to be annoying.  I have no idea if this is a common occurence, but
that was my experience.  I did nothing special, just got (or remained) lazy.
George Loriot1976 TR6

> From: im_sloane at hotmail.com
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 05:03:25 +0000
> Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
>
> Hey team,
> I rolled up 50000 this afternoon and the dang thing stuck there, halting
the
> trip meter also. I fiddled with the trip reset, but still stuck. Anybody
have
> a 'been there done that' tip? As mentioned in the other thread, I too hate
to
> have to remove that speedo.
>
> Sloane :)
> 69-Six - just home from an engine rebuild.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/george_loriot at hotmail.com

From mjmullin at juno.com  Tue Sep  7 04:46:41 2010
From: mjmullin at juno.com (mjmullin at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 10:46:41 GMT
Subject: [6pack] 2010 TRials - Oxford Ohio
Message-ID: <20100907.064641.24712.0@webmail06.vgs.untd.com>

Trials are in three days!!!!  The Cincinnati crew has been preparing and
getting ready.  Watch this space for any last minute details.  Our chairman
(Dave
Waldorf) indicated that he's posted some last minute info to the 6-PACK
website.....so
this may be redundant:
    LAST MINUTE STUFF:
    For those of you traveling from points north, be advised that US 27 is
closed from
the Ohio line about three miles into Indiana.  The detour is long, I'm told,
so think
about planning another route.
    Also, we will have a few loaner helmets available for the Driver Training
event on
Friday....it may be a good idea if you bring yours or borrow one from a
friend, as I'm
guessing that the loaner helmets may get sweat-soaked as the day goes on
(yuk!)
    Travel safe, and we're looking forward to seeing everyone next week!!
    Matt Mullin
____________________________________________________________
Staples&#174; Weekly Ad
50&#37; off backpacks, notebooks for 9&#162; & other extreme deals on school
supplies
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4c86185dd0f55af77a2st02vuc

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Sep  7 06:11:05 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 08:11:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7C1BAADCC31F4328891F3C5DA99AD4EF@BobPC>

I've never had that problem but if you go to my site 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm) you'll find a 
link to a pdf on speedometer repair on that page. Or you can do what a bunch 
of us in 6-Pack have done and send your speedo and cable to Morris at West 
Valley Instruments (http://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/) and have it 
repaired and calibrated. You'll find his price very reasonable and his turn 
around time very fast...... 10 days for me. Give them a call and ask for 
Morris.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, September 07, 2010 1:03 AM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck

> Hey team,
> I rolled up 50000 this afternoon and the dang thing stuck there, halting 
> the
> trip meter also. I fiddled with the trip reset, but still stuck. Anybody 
> have
> a 'been there done that' tip? As mentioned in the other thread, I too hate 
> to
> have to remove that speedo.
>
> Sloane :)
> 69-Six - just home from an engine rebuild.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From KKSMC at aol.com  Tue Sep  7 09:44:21 2010
From: KKSMC at aol.com (KKSMC at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 11:44:21 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop
Message-ID: <663aa.783aae7f.39b7b7d5@aol.com>

Have an opportunity to  purchase an original style hardtop for my '73-6 but 
unfortunately, I know very  little about them and what the required 
hardware is needed to attach it  properly to body. 
Any suggestions as to what  the key elements are to look for with these 
hardtops?
No rust or  dents anywhere and it has the TRIPLEX glass all around but w/o 
a headliner  (has 3-headliner 'stay' bars included).
 
Any suggestions/parts list  info is definitely appreciated.
 
Ken 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep  7 10:39:24 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 16:39:24 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
Message-ID: <COL123-DS2033646A576E0C868614EAF4710@phx.gbl>

Sloan---For me, I found that after running several yards in reverse gear it freed up the mechanism in the odometer. (The speedo worked even when the numbers stuck). It only happened once, at (2)99,999.9 as I recalled. Eventually I had the unit repaired and recalibrated, after going to the 5 speed.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: im sloane
Sent: Monday, September 6, 2010 10:03 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck

Hey team,
I rolled up 50000 this afternoon and the dang thing stuck there, halting the
trip meter also. I fiddled with the trip reset, but still stuck. Anybody have
a 'been there done that' tip? As mentioned in the other thread, I too hate to
have to remove that speedo.

Sloane :)
69-Six - just home from an engine rebuild.
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep  7 10:44:31 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 07 Sep 2010 16:44:31 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop
Message-ID: <COL123-DS218077E3063E962F091FFFF4710@phx.gbl>

Here's an exploded view of all of the hardware parts for the top. It will probably get stripped from the List, but you should get it OK. I think TRF stocks most of these parts.

Dick

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 12756323827460.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 12705796772230.jpg]

From emw327 at gmail.com  Wed Sep  8 02:00:46 2010
From: emw327 at gmail.com (=?UTF-8?B?4oWcIi1lbXczMjc=?=)
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 10:00:46 +0200
Subject: [6pack] TR6 hardtop
In-Reply-To: <663aa.783aae7f.39b7b7d5@aol.com>
References: <663aa.783aae7f.39b7b7d5@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinuDepYDdT+SoW8XS0ZccUrW_95Jq8UTOE8wRC0@mail.gmail.com>

Hello

I have a TR250 and I can have a hard-top from a TR6.
Does anybdy know if it will fit or not???

Sincereley,
Guido


2010/9/7  <KKSMC at aol.com>:
> Have an opportunity to  purchase an original style hardtop for my '73-6 but
> unfortunately, I know very  little about them and what the required
> hardware is needed to attach it  properly to body.
> Any suggestions as to what  the key elements are to look for with these
> hardtops?
> No rust or  dents anywhere and it has the TRIPLEX glass all around but w/o
> a headliner  (has 3-headliner 'stay' bars included).
>
> Any suggestions/parts list  info is definitely appreciated.
>
> Ken
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/emw327 at gmail.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Sep  8 08:13:04 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 10:13:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009081010480.19361@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 7 Sep 2010, im sloane wrote:

> Hey team,
> I rolled up 50000 this afternoon and the dang thing stuck there, halting the
> trip meter also. I fiddled with the trip reset, but still stuck. Anybody have
> a 'been there done that' tip? As mentioned in the other thread, I too hate to
> have to remove that speedo.

Now you know why there's so many "low mileage" Tr6's out there.

:-)

Sorry - couldn't resist.

removing the speedo to fix things is actually pretty easy. and it you're 
not up for fixing it yourself, there's plenty of shoppes that can to the 
work for reasonable $$$.

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Sep  8 10:39:02 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 08 Sep 2010 12:39:02 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Dismantling a TR250
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinuDepYDdT+SoW8XS0ZccUrW_95Jq8UTOE8wRC0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <663aa.783aae7f.39b7b7d5@aol.com>
	<AANLkTinuDepYDdT+SoW8XS0ZccUrW_95Jq8UTOE8wRC0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CD1D8B7A333685-123C-1038@webmail-m081.sysops.aol.com>

It's an ARIZONA DERELICT that was a race car from new. Eventually it became so
modified that it is not salvageable.

Most of what is removed will go to ebay, but here is a heads up, for the
moment.

REAR TAIL LAMPS
REAR BOOT HINGES
DOOR HANDLES  in and out
REAR AXLES WITH DISC BRAKES
DOORS WITH HINGES AND LATCHES
GRILLE
ONE TR6 WHEEL

There is more, but this is stuff that is easy to get to....when I can get to
it.

Joe A

From dave at ranteer.com  Tue Sep  7 19:05:56 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Tue, 7 Sep 2010 20:05:56 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TRials
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <143E546AF0E64E479AB86810C7C3A147@ranteer.local>

hope to see some pictures posted!!!!

some of us aren't so lucky as to be going . . . .  

From p.alferink at pasal.nl  Wed Sep  8 14:44:07 2010
From: p.alferink at pasal.nl (Pim Alferink)
Date: Wed, 8 Sep 2010 22:44:07 +0200
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
Message-ID: <AANLkTim5mc7-bJxsL3N6MSwWMstn8oFv1XPXU2fr5PTt@mail.gmail.com>

The same thing here. About every other 10K the thing halts at a 9999 mark
while the speedo keeps woorking.
Driving about 50 additional miles (with trying to "help" the odometer by
turning the trip counter while driving) always freed it up so far.
No other issues with the odometer, so therefore I'll keep it as it is.
Pim 73 Pimento

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Thu Sep  9 12:50:02 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 11:50:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1284055202.24771.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <173681.63190.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Deal with it like they did in "The China Syndrome" when the gauge for the
water control valve of the nuclear power plant was stuck - "just give it a
thump with your finger."
 
Joe Merone
CF18928
5-speed

 


 

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Thu Sep  9 12:56:22 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 14:56:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Odometer Gear
Message-ID: <6AB75623-D822-4394-9D14-FAEFAC1C9DD7@nc.rr.com>

I've been trying to find an odometer worm gear, the 20-tooth driven
white-plastic one.
The speedo-repair shops I've contacted don't sell internal parts. Evidently,
they're saving 'em for rebuilds. I don't need a rebuild, just a simple, little
gear.
1) Anybody know of a source for Smith speedo parts?
2) Also, can this plastic gear be removed from the steel eccentric shaft? I
don't want to totally destroy it ... quite yet.

Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Sep  9 18:12:47 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 20:12:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Odometer Gear
In-Reply-To: <6AB75623-D822-4394-9D14-FAEFAC1C9DD7@nc.rr.com>
References: <6AB75623-D822-4394-9D14-FAEFAC1C9DD7@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <7A8B0551548B429DB2AEB33243C10971@BobPC>

I have no idea is they sell parts but you might want to give Morris a call 
at West Valley Instruments and ask him. There's a bunch of 6-Pack guys who 
have had their instruments rebuilt by him in the past 18 months. 
http://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/

There's a link to a pdf on rebuilding your speedo at the bottom of this 
page. Maybe it will help. 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Douglas Morris" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 2:56 PM
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Odometer Gear

> I've been trying to find an odometer worm gear, the 20-tooth driven
> white-plastic one.
> The speedo-repair shops I've contacted don't sell internal parts. 
> Evidently,
> they're saving 'em for rebuilds. I don't need a rebuild, just a simple, 
> little
> gear.
> 1) Anybody know of a source for Smith speedo parts?
> 2) Also, can this plastic gear be removed from the steel eccentric shaft? 
> I
> don't want to totally destroy it ... quite yet.
>
> Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Thu Sep  9 19:08:41 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 21:08:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Odometer Gear
In-Reply-To: <7A8B0551548B429DB2AEB33243C10971@BobPC>
References: <6AB75623-D822-4394-9D14-FAEFAC1C9DD7@nc.rr.com>
	<7A8B0551548B429DB2AEB33243C10971@BobPC>
Message-ID: <2E11D0AB-7146-4D09-B363-78EF43148285@nc.rr.com>

Bob,
Yeah, thanks. I checked with West Valley and Nisonger, yesterday.
Neither sells parts, just overhauls.
I followed your link a couple days ago and found the problem all by my
fat-thumbed self.
It's just a stripped odo driven-worm gear.
The rest of the instrument is like new (white dust and o-ring rot
notwithstanding).
Simple fix, if I had the part.

I reckon finding an old speedo will just have the same gear problem.

Haven't quite gotten to the make-a-gear option, yet.
Might have to break-out my gunsmithing tools, eventually, though.
Oh, wait ... I have a box of old watches and wind-up toys. I wonder if ...

Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6
.

On Sep 9, 2010, at 8:12 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> I have no idea is they sell parts but you might want to give Morris a call
at West Valley Instruments and ask him. There's a bunch of 6-Pack guys who
have had their instruments rebuilt by him in the past 18 months.
http://www.westvalleyinstruments.com/
>
> There's a link to a pdf on rebuilding your speedo at the bottom of this
page. Maybe it will help.
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Douglas Morris" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
> Sent: Thursday, September 09, 2010 2:56 PM
> To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Odometer Gear
>
>> I've been trying to find an odometer worm gear, the 20-tooth driven
>> white-plastic one.
>> The speedo-repair shops I've contacted don't sell internal parts.
Evidently,
>> they're saving 'em for rebuilds. I don't need a rebuild, just a simple,
little
>> gear.
>> 1) Anybody know of a source for Smith speedo parts?
>> 2) Also, can this plastic gear be removed from the steel eccentric shaft?
I
>> don't want to totally destroy it ... quite yet.
>>
>> Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Thu Sep  9 20:14:36 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 9 Sep 2010 22:14:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Bob Tullius and Lanky Foushee at VTR National
In-Reply-To: <7A8B0551548B429DB2AEB33243C10971@BobPC>
References: <6AB75623-D822-4394-9D14-FAEFAC1C9DD7@nc.rr.com>
	<7A8B0551548B429DB2AEB33243C10971@BobPC>
Message-ID: <5CCE2183-76A7-4012-A841-BEFA4F4608F7@blakedischer.com>

At Jekyll Island: Meet Triumph's Racing Legend Bob Tullius with Crew Chief
Lanky Foushee!

Triumph's racing and performance legend, Mr. Bob Tullius, will be making a
special guest appearance at the VTR National Convention which takes place
October 17-22 on beautiful Jekyll Island, Georgia. Along with Bob will be
Lanky Foushee, Crew Chief of the legendary Group 44 Triumph race team.

On hand we will have two of the Group 44 cars that once were part of the
history making team of Triumphs. On display will be the TR6 and the GT6 that
once were part of the dominating team of Triumphs.

In addition to the Group 44 cars, the British Leyland Motor Corporation, as a
part of their gratitude for his services, gave Bob the very last factory built
TR6 which he still owns. Bob has agreed to allow us to display this special
TR6. This car has not been shown outside of his garage since he took
possession of it.

Former Triumph Advertising and PR manager, Triumph Driver and VTR editor Mr.
Mike Cook will be our Guest Speaker for this event. Mike's knowledge,
experience and his ability to share his stories of the former glory years will
be an opportunity you will not want to miss.

Convention lodging starts at $99 per night, room discounts expire in less than
one week.

Full details: http://www.vtr2010.com/

Cheers,
Blake Discher

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Fri Sep 10 19:45:22 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian@asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 20:45:22 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 in competition
Message-ID: <20100911014455.B948318764A@autox.team.net>

Dear List: I went to another historic road race this past weekend and think
I've caught the bug that some middle-aged men get. I'm thinking about
building a race car. I'd like to hear from any of you that have prepped a
TR6 for weekend warrior competition. Is the view worth the climb to prepare
a '6 or should I be looking at a saloon of some type instead (Mini, GT6,
etc.)? With the RATCO frames now available, I am thinking these days a
person can build a pretty solild platform out of a basket case. Please tell
me your experience. Am I crazy? Sorry, a Miata is out of the question.
 
Thanks,
 
Brian J. Alwin
"Iceland"
'72 TR6 CC79085

From ikorey at comcast.net  Fri Sep 10 21:44:13 2010
From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 10 Sep 2010 22:44:13 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 in competition
In-Reply-To: <20100911014455.B948318764A@autox.team.net>
References: <20100911014455.B948318764A@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikQqryt+GfSRuXuq80ceyGehLnsUtq_FiStSGQY@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, Sep 10, 2010 at 8:45 PM, Brian at asmoothmove.biz <
brian at asmoothmove.biz> wrote:

> Dear List: I went to another historic road race this past weekend and think
> I've caught the bug that some middle-aged men get. I'm thinking about
> building a race car. I'd like to hear from any of you that have prepped a
> TR6 for weekend warrior competition. Is the view worth the climb to prepare
> a '6 or should I be looking at a saloon of some type instead (Mini, GT6,
> etc.)? With the RATCO frames now available, I am thinking these days a
> person can build a pretty solild platform out of a basket case. Please tell
> me your experience. Am I crazy? Sorry, a Miata is out of the question.
>

Depending on where you want to race and with which group you want to race, a
TR4 might be a better choice. TR4's and TR6's run in different race groups,
and there are tons of TR4's racing, so you should always have someone to
race with. Additionally, since the TR6 is a newer car, it runs with other
newer cars (think 240Z and 911).

Prepping a car to go racing is pretty pricey. When I was looking to do it, I
was advised (it's good if you can find a mentor) to buy an existing race car
and fix it up rather than to start from scratch. I found a beat up TR4
former SCCA car that had a really excellent chassis. Rebuilding everything
and painting the car still cost a lot of $$$, but it was a lot less than
starting from scratch.

HTH,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL
Formerly TR4 #58, now residing in Washington and wearing #78

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Sep 11 08:11:07 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:11:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph
Message-ID: <70EFF67CFA954C7B8F51F12CB7B094DA@BobPC>

No Triumph content

Does ATF fluid change from red to black over time? I've got an 07 Mazda3 
with 40K miles that runs great. At the last oil change, the quick lube guys 
were saying that the ATF fluid needed to be changed because it was no longer 
red and was therefore dirty. Nothing in my manual about ever needing to 
change ATF............... Are the quick lube guys just looking to pad the 
profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K?

Thanks
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From Vsnively at aol.com  Sat Sep 11 08:20:06 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:20:06 EDT
Subject: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph
Message-ID: <8a5d3.da59dd8.39bcea16@aol.com>

Bob,
 
   The biggest enemy of ATF is heat. That's the main reason most  of it is 
synthetic today. Synthetics were developed post-WWII for jet engine  
bearings. We could build turbines, but the oil technology couldn't support the  
lubrication requirements (heat and high RPMs).
  If it's a dark red or black, time to change, regardless of factory  
service intervals.It's only $100 for a change. A rebuilt tranny is $2500. 
 
Thanks,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6 w/AC
 
 
In a message dated 9/11/2010 10:14:29 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

No  Triumph content

Does ATF fluid change from red to black over time? I've  got an 07 Mazda3 
with 40K miles that runs great. At the last oil change,  the quick lube 
guys 
were saying that the ATF fluid needed to be changed  because it was no 
longer 
red and was therefore dirty. Nothing in my manual  about ever needing to 
change ATF............... Are the quick lube guys  just looking to pad the 
profits? Or should ATF stay red even after  40K?

Thanks
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/  Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan  LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org  
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Sat Sep 11 11:06:54 2010
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 10:06:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Rota RB Wheels - What I found
Message-ID: <214387.17523.qm@web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Yes, those Panasport/Minilite look-a-likes on Ebay for $500 set are priced
very 
nicely.   Panasports 16x7 fitment are in the $300 +/each  range.   While
yes, 
you do get what you pay for,  no need to buy more then you need.  
Boy, Rotas can be a hot topic on the Jap & European car discussion groups.  
These guys don't mind going after one another.   We're positively gentle in
comparison.   Guess its a maturity (age) & British car thing.

	1. Rotas are
cast, not forged like expensive high end wheels.   Not sure if 
rotas are
gravity or pressure cast.   i understand pressure casting is a better
process.  I'm definitely not an engineer, but I understand a cast wheel will
never be as strong as a forged one.   

	2. Higher end forged wheels may come
in several pieces, an advantage for wheel 
repair.   But if I need to
replace a Rota at say $150/wheel, I'm not going to 
lose any hair over it.
	3.
rotas made in the Phillippines.   Company has a 20+ year history.
	4. rotas do
meet international quality standards and are new car fitment on 
some makes.
5. Folks do race on them.   
	6. Folks that owned Rotas almost always stood up
for them.   Detractors were 
usually not owners or, they referred to damaged
rotas seen on internet posted 
pictures or stories from several years ago.
	7.
I don't think my fast road TR6 is likely to overstress a reasonably decent
wheel.   I have maybe 135 hp, not 300.   Our cars handle well, I avoid the
potholes if possible.
	8. Bob Danielson mentioned a new wheel available from
acmespeedshop at a good 
price, a well regarded British car shop.   

Bruce
Simms

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Sep 11 13:36:40 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 15:36:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph
In-Reply-To: <20100911190039.C70C5187660@autox.team.net>
References: <20100911190039.C70C5187660@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <223DE0AED5044652BA5C2AE3472A2B98@BobPC>

Thank you everybody for your responses. I guess I best have it checked out 
and get the fluid changed.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

> ----- Reply message -----
> From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
> Date: Sat, Sep 11, 2010 13:14
> Subject: [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph
> To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
>> Are the quick lube guys just
>> looking to pad the
>> profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K?
>
> IMO they are right.  If it is discolored, it should be changed.
>
> Whether it should be discolored after only 40k is a different question.  I
> would want to see (and smell) it for myself; if it is brownish and smells
> burned, you have a transmission problem that should be addressed sooner
> rather than later.
>
> Randall
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/spook01 at comcast.net
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sat Sep 11 16:25:23 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 22:25:23 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] radiator fan switch
Message-ID: <1149069548.1328718.1284243923169.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I haveB a 74 TR6 with a new aluminum radiator with integrated spal 16 in fan.
it has no temperture bung so i cannot install a thermastat in the actual
radiator. my options appear to add a simple on/off switch with relay/fuse or
is there also a way to integrate a thermastat that will not involve with
actual radiator. this new rad/fan is replacing stock radiator with hayden fan
so electrical platform is ready as needed. regrads, Joe

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Sep 11 18:20:08 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 20:20:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] radiator fan switch
In-Reply-To: <1149069548.1328718.1284243923169.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1149069548.1328718.1284243923169.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <852D02AF0BF54C54AB9586916F9A6E7C@BobPC>

Interesting that the radiator/fan combo didn't include a bung. If it's a 
Wizard radiator I'd question them as my Wizard/Spal combo pack 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm) came the bung in the upper 
right corner.

Ideally you want the sensor in the radiator but I guess you could mount it 
in the hose coming out of the thermostat like I did for the coolant sensor 
in my TBI installation. There's a picture here 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI%20Conversion/TBI%20Pictures/JEPGs/Coolant%20Sensor.jpg)

You should also consider a 3-way fan switch: auto-on, off, manual-on.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <j.honor at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 6:25 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] radiator fan switch

> I haveB a 74 TR6 with a new aluminum radiator with integrated spal 16 in 
> fan.
> it has no temperture bung so i cannot install a thermastat in the actual
> radiator. my options appear to add a simple on/off switch with relay/fuse 
> or
> is there also a way to integrate a thermastat that will not involve with
> actual radiator. this new rad/fan is replacing stock radiator with hayden 
> fan
> so electrical platform is ready as needed. regrads, Joe
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From emanteno at comcast.net  Sat Sep 11 21:12:38 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Sat, 11 Sep 2010 22:12:38 -0500
Subject: [6pack] radiator fan switch
In-Reply-To: <1149069548.1328718.1284243923169.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <1149069548.1328718.1284243923169.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimVhLoQ+iB-jwrzsfaSwsHd68HncoEFzhc91FHN@mail.gmail.com>

Earlier today I saw a TR6 with an electrical fan, with the thermostat
located in the metal pipe between the 2 hoses that go from the water pump to
the bottom of the radiator. if you can find the source for that pipe and
thermostat, that would give you another option over a manual only on-off
switch.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

On Sat, Sep 11, 2010 at 5:25 PM, <j.honor at comcast.net> wrote:

> I haveB a 74 TR6 with a new aluminum radiator with integrated spal 16 in
> fan.
> it has no temperture bung so i cannot install a thermastat in the actual
> radiator. my options appear to add a simple on/off switch with relay/fuse
> or
> is there also a way to integrate a thermastat that will not involve with
> actual radiator. this new rad/fan is replacing stock radiator with hayden
> fan
> so electrical platform is ready as needed. regrads, Joe
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/emanteno at gmail.com

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sun Sep 12 08:58:04 2010
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 10:58:04 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph
Message-ID: <b15a0.3900f9e0.39be447c@aol.com>

Bob,
 
My experiences with ATF are that it will change from "new" red to a darker  
red over time and that's normal but if it changes to a more black shade it  
indicates that either it's been running hotter than the engineered,  normal 
heat range and has degraded or it's showing signs of internal  seal/gasket 
breakdown.....or both!
 
In either case, I think it's a wise recommendation to change it and the  
filter.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 9/11/2010 10:13:55 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

Are the  quick lube guys just looking to pad the 
profits? Or should ATF stay red  even after 40K?

From p.alferink at pasal.nl  Sun Sep 12 14:16:13 2010
From: p.alferink at pasal.nl (Pim Alferink)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 22:16:13 +0200
Subject: [6pack] radiator fan switch
Message-ID: <AANLkTikN_7O=hH2cnpEnOK=7_aRieRaJmVThyAyByB5S@mail.gmail.com>

I run such a setup as well. Regular thermostat switch with bulbsensor.
Bulbsensor taped to the radiator return line (to the metal pipe). Works
perfect and one can set the temperature at which the fan comes in using the
dial on the thermostat. Accurate within a gedree or so.
As others advised, I included a switch for manual on/off. But after five
years I still never used it. Oh and two years ago I did away with the
mechanical fan.
Pim 73 Pimento

Earlier today I saw a TR6 with an electrical fan, with the thermostat
located in the metal pipe between the 2 hoses that go from the water pump to
the bottom of the radiator. if you can find the source for that pipe and
thermostat, that would give you another option over a manual only on-off
switch.

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Sun Sep 12 14:50:47 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 16:50:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
Message-ID: <AANLkTin0GXjsm4yj2-r5QKZJgtnBcrVDsO6=mwRsAkUe@mail.gmail.com>

Couple weeks ago, the weather turned bad, so I filled up the TR6 and
parked it in the garage.   Sunny today, but it's hard starting, oil
pressure is low, won't hold an idle.   The dipstick shows oil is about
an inch above the high mark, it seems very thin for 10/50 and it
smells of gas.   Hard starting even when warm, misfiring, won't idle.

How does gas get in the oil sump when parked   Stuck float?   When the
tank is full, I think it is high enough to force gas through the
carbs...   Would that explain both issues?

John North
1976 TR6 Inca Yellow

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Sep 12 18:36:06 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:36:06 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
References: <AANLkTin0GXjsm4yj2-r5QKZJgtnBcrVDsO6=mwRsAkUe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000401cb52db$a726e290$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Or, it's the fuel diaphragm gone bad if you are running original style pump?
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John North" <johncnorth at gmail.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 12, 2010 1:50 PM
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?


> Couple weeks ago, the weather turned bad, so I filled up the TR6 and
> parked it in the garage.   Sunny today, but it's hard starting, oil
> pressure is low, won't hold an idle.   The dipstick shows oil is about
> an inch above the high mark, it seems very thin for 10/50 and it
> smells of gas.   Hard starting even when warm, misfiring, won't idle.
>
> How does gas get in the oil sump when parked   Stuck float?   When the
> tank is full, I think it is high enough to force gas through the
> carbs...   Would that explain both issues?
>
> John North
> 1976 TR6 Inca Yellow
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Sun Sep 12 16:21:32 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 18:21:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
In-Reply-To: <33b5b.79934082.39be9f58@aol.com>
References: <33b5b.79934082.39be9f58@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikLw=dWhg=bgVhbQX4T1RiMWw9+ky2vJPhZ56oX@mail.gmail.com>

So in this case the leak goes right down from the pump and into the
crankcase, not through the carbs?    But that wouldn't cause the hard
start and no idle, right?

John North

On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM,  <Btp44 at aol.com> wrote:
> John-If you still have the stock mechanical pump, there is a good chance
> that it is the source of the gas in the crankcase. Either through a hole in
> the diaphragm of the seal around the diaphragm. When the tank is near full,
> the level is above the fuel pump and maybe the carbs. You might also take
> the domes off the carbs to see if they are leaking from a stuck needle
> valve. A shutoff valve mounted before the fuel pump is a good idea for
> preventing leaks during storage as well as a theft deterrent.
> Berry

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Sep 12 16:30:06 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 18:30:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikLw=dWhg=bgVhbQX4T1RiMWw9+ky2vJPhZ56oX@mail.gmail.com>
References: <33b5b.79934082.39be9f58@aol.com>
	<AANLkTikLw=dWhg=bgVhbQX4T1RiMWw9+ky2vJPhZ56oX@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D5E4B6D829ED4DB6B993E4BAB1480162@Robert>

in this case the leak goes right down from the pump and into the
crankcase, not through the carbs?    But that wouldn't cause the hard
start and no idle, right?

IMHO I would say yes. With most of your gas leaking into the block through
the pump housing, next to no gas is getting to your carbs and then to the
cylinder. The cylinders which are firing, are not able to idle due to very
little gas getting to them through the carbs. More than likely numbers one
and six are firing dry.2-4 are getting weak flow.

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sun Sep 12 16:48:35 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 17:48:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] radiator fan switch
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikN_7O=hH2cnpEnOK=7_aRieRaJmVThyAyByB5S@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTikN_7O=hH2cnpEnOK=7_aRieRaJmVThyAyByB5S@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <92492EB2-895C-4884-BB1F-1247763280A5@comcast.net>

Thanks will pursue return line bung if cannot resolves radiator manufacturer
return regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 12, 2010, at 3:16 PM, Pim Alferink <p.alferink at pasal.nl> wrote:

> I run such a setup as well. Regular thermostat switch with bulbsensor.
> Bulbsensor taped to the radiator return line (to the metal pipe). Works
> perfect and one can set the temperature at which the fan comes in using the
> dial on the thermostat. Accurate within a gedree or so.
> As others advised, I included a switch for manual on/off. But after five
> years I still never used it. Oh and two years ago I did away with the
> mechanical fan.
> Pim 73 Pimento
>
> Earlier today I saw a TR6 with an electrical fan, with the thermostat
> located in the metal pipe between the 2 hoses that go from the water pump
to
> the bottom of the radiator. if you can find the source for that pipe and
> thermostat, that would give you another option over a manual only on-off
> switch.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Sep 12 17:17:52 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 19:17:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTin0GXjsm4yj2-r5QKZJgtnBcrVDsO6=mwRsAkUe@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTin0GXjsm4yj2-r5QKZJgtnBcrVDsO6=mwRsAkUe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201009121917.53793.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, September 12, 2010 04:50:47 pm John North wrote:
> Couple weeks ago, the weather turned bad, so I filled up the TR6 and
> parked it in the garage.   Sunny today, but it's hard starting, oil
> pressure is low, won't hold an idle.   The dipstick shows oil is about
> an inch above the high mark, it seems very thin for 10/50 and it
> smells of gas.   Hard starting even when warm, misfiring, won't idle.
> 
> How does gas get in the oil sump when parked   Stuck float?   When the
> tank is full, I think it is high enough to force gas through the
> carbs...   Would that explain both issues?
> 
> John North
> 1976 TR6 Inca Yellow
John,

When I picked up my 72 2 years ago, it ran but the PO said the carbs needed 
rebuilding. Well the carbs and the rest of the car!

Anyway, when I drained the sump, it had about 7 quarts and it smelled of gas 
and was very thin. But this engine did not have the stock fuel pump installed. 
It had an electric with a blanking plate to cover the block where the pump 
would have been installed. So I am guessing the fuel you are seeing in the 
sump could have come from the carbs maybe through the breather between the 
carbs and the valve cover. Just a guess.

I replaced the ZSs with SUs from Paltech and so far with about 1 hour on a 
rebuilt engine, no gas in the sump. Stayed with the electronic fuel pump but 
added a regulator set at 2PSI. Same setup I have on my 3 and 4.

Bob

From Btp44 at aol.com  Sun Sep 12 17:37:53 2010
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 12 Sep 2010 19:37:53 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
Message-ID: <c61d6.3a67a0f9.39bebe51@aol.com>

John-I agree that (after re-reading your original post) the idle  problem 
seems to point to the carbs as the problem. Hopefully, you will find  gas 
leaking up from the jet in one of the carbs, to confirm the source. The  sparks 
plugs in the cyls supplied by the leaky carb should be wet or black, if  
the needle valve is stuck open. The fuel pump is probably an easier fix  than 
having to remove the carbs to clean or replace the float valves.
Berry 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Sep 13 11:59:00 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 17:59:00 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
Message-ID: <COL123-DS13881813A9B2C0FE917149F4770@phx.gbl>

John---I wouldn't try running the engine for long with so much gas diluting the oil. To help find the source, I'd first pinch off the fuel line to the carbs and drain the pan. Put the pan plug back in for an hour or so, then remove the plug again.  See if gas still comes out in the pan. If it still comes out (and the tank is still at least half full) the fuel pump diaphragm is likely the source of the leak. Otherwise, suspect that you have a stuck needle in the float chamber. Follow Berry's suggestion as to which carb.

Dick

From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Mon Sep 13 12:20:00 2010
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:20:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Thank you from Connecticut Triumph Register
Message-ID: <8CD218769D08C0E-FB0-4CF@webmail-d083.sysops.aol.com>

Thank you to all who helped make the 30th Annual CT Triumph Registers British
Motorcar Gathering and Picnic a great success.
Hope to see you there again next year.
Best regards,
Fred McNutt
www.CTRiumph.com

From dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com  Mon Sep 13 12:41:16 2010
From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com (Dave Waldorf)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 14:41:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
Message-ID: <836F4A1A5D334A4F90C6B5BCB3A81DA2@DavePC>

Unlike most American carburetors, the Stromberg CD and SU carbs have almost
all of the float chamber below the jet, so a leaking jet cannot be the
source of gas in the oil.  The idle problems could be related to a very rich
mixture resulting from a bad or poorly adjusted jet, but it would take a
VERY long time to get an extra quart or so of gas in the oil that way.



There is one way to get a lot of gas in your oil that is not related to ANY
defect in the car.  If you have a lot of heat built up around the fuel
pump/line/carb/etc., the gas will begin to boil.  This is called fuel
percolation.  Gasoline was reformulated in the late 1990s to standards that
are better for fuel injected cars and worse for ours.  It will begin to boil
at temperatures as low as 100 degrees F, and will boil dry at no more than
175 degrees F.  Those temperatures are easily exceeded in the engine
compartment under the best of conditions.



When fuel percolation happens, the boiling gas components push the still
liquid components along in the system, and eventually out the easiest
orifice (which is often the carb jet).  That gas is then free to run
down/along the manifold, past the valves, into the cylinders, past the
rings, and into the crankcase.  It will usually build up heavy carbon
deposits in the valves and cylinder walls along the way, fouling spark plugs
and making for a very rough idle.  Assuming the fuel pump is OK, I'd bet if
you pulled the spark plugs on this car they'd be black with a dry carbon
residue.



If you don't have a bad fuel pump diaphragm pumping gas directly into the
crankcase (with the poor idle caused by a resulting lean condition), then
this might be the problem.



Pull the plugs first.  Clean plugs mean the fuel pump's bad, black plugs
mean you need to put a heat shield on the carbs or take some other action to
protect the fuel from heat.



Good luck!



--Dave

From luichinger at comcast.net  Mon Sep 13 13:12:15 2010
From: luichinger at comcast.net (luichinger at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 19:12:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph
In-Reply-To: <70EFF67CFA954C7B8F51F12CB7B094DA@BobPC>
Message-ID: <822094912.683143.1284405135671.JavaMail.root@sz0105a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

BobB B  Not sure about 07 but 09B  Mazda3 do not have red coloredB  ATF
installed at the plant.B  They use a brownish to translucent colored ATF that
meets mercron V spec..B  My daughter ran into the same issue with a quick
change outfit and got me involved because her owners manual said nothing about
changing the fluid.B Check the fluid yourself.B  take some off the dipstick
put it on a clean white towel.B  If it appears clear with a B golden to light
brown hue andB  it dose not smell burnt it is most likely fine.B  If it smells
burn the clutch packs have been damaged and changing fluid is not likely to
help unless you plan on quickly B passing the problem on to some one else.B 
IMHO the the oil change boys made an honest mistake or you need to find
someone else.B B A fluid change at these shops or any shop can beB  risky..B 
The machine may not get maintained and most people do nothing untill something
happens which means there is a lot of crap that can be transfered from the
last fluid replacement to your trans.B  IfB its not broke do not fix it
applies here.B If you have to do it have it done manually.B B B 
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Danielson " <75tr6 at tr6. danielsonfamily .org>
To: triumphs@ autox .team.net, "6 pack" <6pack@ autox .team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 11, 2010 10:11:07 AM
Subject: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph

No Triumph content

Does ATF fluid change from red to black over time? I've got an 07 Mazda3
with 40K miles that runs great. At the last oil change, the quick lube guys
were saying that the ATF fluid needed to be changed because it was no longer
red and was therefore dirty. Nothing in my manual about ever needing to
change ATF ............... Are the quick lube guys just looking to pad the
profits? Or should ATF stay red even after 40K?

Thanks
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http ://tr6. danielsonfamily .org
_______________________________________________

6pack@ autox .team.net
Donate: http :// www .team.net/donate. html
Archive: http :// www .team.net/archive
Forums: http :// www .team.net/forums
Unsubscribe /Manage: http :// autox .team.net/mailman/options/6pack/
luichinger @comcast.net

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 13 13:18:00 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:18:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Paint Protection and 3M Clear Bra for your vehicle. Also
 known as Rock Guard.
Message-ID: <678BB45D8B6E47CFB3ECCFA643FD97A0@JaneShawPC>

http://www.invisiblemask.com/site.html?OVRAW=invisible%20auto%20bra&OVKEY=inv
isible%20auto%20bra&OVMTC=standard&OVADID=39677962011&OVKWID=151508398511&OVC
AMPGID=3744627011&OVADGRPID=8676787899&OVNDID=ND2
Anyone tried this stuff? New paint job already has a ding.
Jerry Shaw
'74 TR6 Mallard Green (running and on the road finally)

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Sep 13 13:39:12 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 15:39:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Mistery Miss
Message-ID: <fbca9.7981aa9e.39bfd7e0@aol.com>

Hi Guys,
I took the TR6 south to Oxford, OH for the 6-PACK Trials last week,  
probably less 600 miles total.  The Trials were great.  The Six had a  few issues. 
The first was a low RPM miss that caused her to chug some when  
accelerating.  Usually in 3rd or 4th with OD engaged but not  always.  She would chug 
some regardless of speed but usually below  2500 rpm's.  Once above that she 
seemed happier with only a few  chugs. Not enough of a problem to leave me 
on the side of the road but very  annoying. 
 
So I pulled the Bosch Platinum WR7dp plugs : #1 thru 4 look reddish  brown, 
#5 is brown & #6 is bright white.  I must be sucking in some air  back 
there, Huh?  From the manifold gasket?  I hate to just start  ripping into that 
w/o the wisdom of the List but the bright white is an  indicater of a lean 
condition in that cylinder, correct? What else  could it be?  The Six also 
got very hot once when I let her idle for 5  minutes which would confirm a 
lean condition.
 
I have had this problem before with the Six and also the TR250.  Seems  
like they both want to blow up manifold gaskets.  What am I doing  wrong?  I 
have tried the method of putting two gaskets on back to  back. I forget which 
way they go it's been so long.  I only have one on  now.
 
Any Tips are appreciated,
Darrell 

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 13 14:37:40 2010
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 13:37:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Mistery Miss
In-Reply-To: <fbca9.7981aa9e.39bfd7e0@aol.com>
References: <fbca9.7981aa9e.39bfd7e0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1850.2564.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Darrell

Yes the Trials were great except for the rain on Saturday.

I assume
that you have already tried to tighten all the related intake and 
exhaust
manifold studs. If that is the case then I would suggest removing the 
exhaust
manifold and laying a straight edge across the ports. You may find that 
it
has warped. If this is the case then it needs to be shaved till it is flat
across the ports.

Some headers have had this problem in the past and adding
extra gaskets does not 
solve the problem.

Dale
________________________________
From: "TR250Driver at aol.com"
<TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, September 13, 2010 3:39:12 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Mistery Miss

Hi
Guys,
I took the TR6 south to Oxford, OH for the 6-PACK Trials last week, 
probably less 600 miles total.  The Trials were great.  The Six had a  few
issues. 

The first was a low RPM miss that caused her to chug some when 
accelerating.  Usually in 3rd or 4th with OD engaged but not  always.  She
would 
chug 

some regardless of speed but usually below  2500 rpm's.  Once
above that she 
seemed happier with only a few  chugs. Not enough of a problem
to leave me 
on the side of the road but very  annoying. 

So I pulled the
Bosch Platinum WR7dp plugs : #1 thru 4 look reddish  brown, 
#5 is brown & #6
is bright white.  I must be sucking in some air  back 
there, Huh?  From the
manifold gasket?  I hate to just start  ripping into that 
w/o the wisdom of
the List but the bright white is an  indicater of a lean 
condition in that
cylinder, correct? What else  could it be?  The Six also 
got very hot once
when I let her idle for 5  minutes which would confirm a 
lean condition.

I
have had this problem before with the Six and also the TR250.  Seems  
like
they both want to blow up manifold gaskets.  What am I doing  wrong?  I 
have
tried the method of putting two gaskets on back to  back. I forget which 
way
they go it's been so long.  I only have one on  now.

Any Tips are
appreciated,
Darrell 
_______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 13 16:21:36 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 18:21:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph
In-Reply-To: <822094912.683143.1284405135671.JavaMail.root@sz0105a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <822094912.683143.1284405135671.JavaMail.root@sz0105a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DC015C69BC9744ADB7447169617D1D02@BobPC>

Very interesting..........Time to learn something new about ATF.  I just 
went and checked, again, and the color is a brownish/translucent color which 
I was automatically assuming was black seeing as it wasn't red.

The AT dipstick is also marked "ATF-MV" and according to Mazda, their ATF-MV 
is the equivalent to Mecron V. And the dipstick opening is so small that you 
couldn't add fluid from there.

A little Googling turns up all sorts of confusion in the Mazda Forums about 
ATF fluid and compatibility with Mecron V   i.e. be careful what you mix 
with it as you mismatching ATF fluids can damage the tranny. Reminds me of 
brake fluid confusion on the Mail Lists.

And......... Mazda does not specify any ATF service interval.

None the less, I'll give the service manager a call tomorrow.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org




From: luichinger at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, September 13, 2010 3:12 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6 pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] ATF Fluid..... non Triumph


Bob   Not sure about 07 but 09  Mazda3 do not have red colored  ATF 
installed at the plant.  They use a brownish to translucent colored ATF that 
meets mercron V spec..  My daughter ran into the same issue with a quick 
change outfit and got me involved because her owners manual said nothing 
about changing the fluid. Check the fluid yourself.  take some off the 
dipstick put it on a clean white towel.  If it appears clear with a  golden 
to light brown hue and  it dose not smell burnt it is most likely fine.  If 
it smells burn the clutch packs have been damaged and changing fluid is not 
likely to help unless you plan on quickly  passing the problem on to some 
one else.  IMHO the the oil change boys made an honest mistake or you need 
to find someone else.  A fluid change at these shops or any shop can be 
risky..  The machine may not get maintained and most people do nothing 
untill something happens which means there is a lot of crap that can be 
transfered from the last fluid replacement to your trans.  If its not broke 
do not fix it applies here. If you have to do it have it done manually. 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Sep 13 16:38:51 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 22:38:51 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Gas in the oil?
Message-ID: <COL123-DS215AAE6C8E4501B8E596E1F4770@phx.gbl>

Dave---You wrote that a "leaking jet cannot be the source of gas in the oil" on the Stromberg or SU carburetor. It's been a while since I've dealt with the the former, but I can vouch that a stuck open float needle will certainly cause the excess fuel to come up thru the jet on the SU and (ultimately) into the engine. Without the shutoff feature that the float and needle seating provides when a certain level is reached, the fuel has to go somewhere. This assumes that the fuel level in the tank is higher than the outlet in the carburetor. In an engine running at any speed, the overflow would occur faster.

I can't think of a reason that the same scenario wouldn't occur with the ZS carb. 

Dick

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Mon Sep 13 17:45:22 2010
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 16:45:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] radiator fan switch
Message-ID: <66135.6254.qm@web65606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I recall Moss Europe sells a ss rad return pipe with a bung for a fan
switch.   

Re Aluminum radiators.   Summit Racing has a bunch of different
sized aluminim 
rads for about $160.00   Not sure if any would work for us.  
I recall something 
in Kastner's manual about using a corvette aluminum
radiator.

Bruce Simms

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Mon Sep 13 18:17:33 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:17:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
Message-ID: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>

Looks like fuel pump was the problem...   Borrowed an electric from an
e-type, bypassed the mechanical and the car fired right up, ran
smooth.   Any recommendations on an electric pump and where to mount
it?

John North

On Sun, Sep 12, 2010 at 5:25 PM,  <Btp44 at aol.com> wrote:
> John-If you still have the stock mechanical pump, there is a good chance
> that it is the source of the gas in the crankcase. Either through a hole in
> the diaphragm of the seal around the diaphragm. When the tank is near full,
> the level is above the fuel pump and maybe the carbs. You might also take
> the domes off the carbs to see if they are leaking from a stuck needle
> valve. A shutoff valve mounted before the fuel pump is a good idea for
> preventing leaks during storage as well as a theft deterrent.
> Berry

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Sep 13 18:34:14 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:34:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <A472CA0F34DC409AACE9CBE9FCEEA820@Robert>

I recommend you go back to the mechanical fuel pump. Buy a rebuild kit from
one of the big three and do a cleaning and replace the parts. You will be
happier in the long run. IMHO only!

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 13 18:39:23 2010
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 20:39:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRials results
Message-ID: <BAY143-W289BEE7F2ECA8140236224C6780@phx.gbl>

This year's winners are up on the site for anyone who didn't attend.

http://www.6-pack.org/j15/index.php?option=com_phocagallery&view=category&id=
56:winners&Itemid=63

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Sep 13 19:53:29 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 13 Sep 2010 21:53:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009132148060.2270@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

This one will work:

http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1738/Facet_Fuel_Pumps

I haven't bought one in a while (about 10 years) but that's because the 
ones I'm using are still working after all that time. That's about 60 k 
miles on the street car!

If you shop around, these pumps are available from a number of sources. 
Just get the 1.5-4.5 psi jobbie, not the other one (which is 3 - 6 psi).

You should run a regulator and I like the in-line filters that Purolator 
sells (1/8 NPT with a hose barb on the other end) - they work great at 
catching the crap from the bottom of your fuel tank - just change once a 
year or so.

I gave up on the mechanical pump when I was running Webers and when I 
switched back to ZS carbs, I kept the electric fuel pump.

You can easily mount the pump on the wheel well near the shock mount on 
the driver side. The location, using the described pump, is almost 
obvious.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Sep 14 05:54:07 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 07:54:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <201009140754.08269.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday, September 13, 2010 08:17:33 pm John North wrote:
> Looks like fuel pump was the problem...   Borrowed an electric from an
> e-type, bypassed the mechanical and the car fired right up, ran
> smooth.   Any recommendations on an electric pump and where to mount
> it?
> 
> John North
John,

I have Facet pumps installed on my 3, 4 and 6. The 6 pump is mounted just 
under the rear of the left fender on the outside wall of the trunk. Filter 
between the tank and pump. I also installed a regulator which is bolted to a 
plate on top of the mechanical pump blank off plate. The pressure is set at 2 
PSI for my 2 SUs. Just to be sure, I have a 2nd filter just before the 
regulator.

I have been running Facet pumps for 5 years now and I will never go back to 
the mechanical.

They are a bit noisy when you turn on the ignition but once the engine fires 
up I cannot hear the pump even at idle.

Where ever you mount the pump the conventional wisdom is to get it as close to 
the tank as you can.

Bob

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Sep 14 13:33:01 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 15:33:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss
Message-ID: <1f2a8.3ff1d639.39c127ed@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/13/2010 3:55:33 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Dave1massey at cs.com writes:

.  For 
some reason I decided to check my valve clearances and  found two valves 
had no 
gap at all.  (valve seat recession?)  I  regapped the valves and the miss 
went away.


Thanks Dave and all that responded.  I was and am concerned that  the Six 
needs a valve job.  45,000 miles on the clock still a factory  build. I will 
start with the propane to find a vacuum leak then on to the  valves for 
adjustment.  I suppose a problem with the  valves would show up on a compression 
test.  Exhaust valve recession  would cause a lean condition, correct?  
Anyway I was not aware of the  Moss Hi-Performance gaskets and just ordered two 
of them. 
 
Hope it's something simple, I have the Six registered for the VTR  National 
Convention on Jekyll Island in a few weeks since the TR6 is the  featured 
marque.  Always something! I suppose I can take another  car.  Ugly, the 76 
VE Edition TR7, comes to mind.  I bet those  southern folks would get a kick 
out of them Spoker Rims on her. Of course she  autox's like a pig.  Oh well 
easy class to run in too.  
Darrell 

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Sep 14 20:16:35 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 14 Sep 2010 22:16:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wire wheel question
Message-ID: <4C902C83.7050603@snet.net>

      Hi, when changing tires on wire wheel rims, is it best to keep 
it's splined adapter paired with each wheel, or does it not matter.  
It's almost time for new tires.   John Mitchell   76 TR6   72 Stag

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 15 06:13:53 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:13:53 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Odometer stuck
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU120-W768C28B05994DD49A75908E710@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W295F53FE53E4CFAF27DBC98E790@phx.gbl>

Update:
Pulled the speedo, removed the glass, and gave the lazy 5 a little nudge
upward with a small screwdriver. Odometer working fine now.

Thanks for the other suggestions!
Sloane :o)
69-Six

>
> Hey team,
> I rolled up 50000 this afternoon and the dang thing stuck there, halting
the
> trip meter also. I fiddled with the trip reset, but still stuck. Anybody
have
> a 'been there done that' tip? As mentioned in the other thread, I too hate
to
> have to remove that speedo.

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 15 13:32:59 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 12:32:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fuel Pump was gas in oil
Message-ID: <544423.27697.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If you intend to use the electric pump, which I have done for years without
any 
problem, you will still need to address the cause for the gas in oil
situation 
which was probably through the diaphragm of the old mechanical fuel
pump.  
Unless you have bypassed the old one the fuel from the electric fuel
pump can 
still get into the sump through the failed diaphragm in the old
pump.

Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6   

From john70350 at msn.com  Wed Sep 15 18:44:44 2010
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 00:44:44 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Possible block cracks
Message-ID: <BLU151-w4115C179DC2A8713290CF0F77A0@phx.gbl>

Hey All,
            I wanted to get some quick feedback regarding some small possible
cracks I found while disassembling a 2.0 liter GT6 engine I have. The hairline
cracks are on the lifter galley side and run toward the lifter galley and not
toward the cylinders. I spoke to someone very knowledgeable in these engines
and he said he has not seen this although he mainly works with TR6 engines.
Has anyone seen anything like this before? Is this a very rare occurrence? The
rest of the engine looks great and the head gasket looked fine. I have
pictures if you want a closer look. Any feedback would be helpful.

                                       Thanks,
                                    John Johnson
                                   Columbus, Ohio

From rlambour at comcast.net  Wed Sep 15 19:14:41 2010
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard Lambour)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 21:14:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 fuel tanks
Message-ID: <A8383724A9F546908CA517E2039F6474@LAMBOUR>

Hi,

 

I have a 1970 TR-6 I'm re-building and I recently discovered the fuel tank
has a few holes rotted through the bottom.  I've looked at various vendors
and noticed that there is a staggering difference in price on replacement
tanks with most of them being "unobtainium" for my budget.

 

The tank offered by Victoria British is substantially cheaper; so much so
that I'm a bit suspicious.  Has anyone used these or heard anything about
them being inferior to those offered by the other major vendors like MOSS or
TRF?

 

Also, I have a body shop guy who is recommending I look into getting the
current tank repaired.  I'm not sure if this is a wise course of action and
am curious if anyone has successfully done this and/or knows of shops in the
Boston or Eastern Massachusetts area that could look at this thing.  I think
the biggest hole is about the size of a nickel.

 

Thanks very much!



 

Rick

From rlambour at comcast.net  Wed Sep 15 19:18:03 2010
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard Lambour)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 21:18:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake servo unit question
Message-ID: <6D7D49F860584132AF6ABDF35C5B62E5@LAMBOUR>

Hi,

 

I'm rebuilding a 1970 TR-6 and have a brake servo unit question.  Mine has
seen better days and probably needs to be rebuilt or replaced.   I've
noticed that replacement is either expensive or impossible while rebuilding
appears to be relatively cheap.  I am curious whether there are any
recommendations on this; do most of you rebuild or replace.

 

Thanks very much!

 

Rick

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Sep 15 19:26:48 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 21:26:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009132148060.2270@isis.mit.edu>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009132148060.2270@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <83E928A653304BA0927DEDBC9442299D@M4A>

> This one will work:
>
> http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1738/Facet_Fuel_Pumps

Another source:

http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php

Scroll down a bit and note the specified filter for the inlet.  Buy a couple 
of those to catch anything that goes past your regular filter.

Jeff Scarbrough
Flaming Moe's, Ga.

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Sep 15 20:01:11 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 22:01:11 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 fuel tanks
In-Reply-To: <A8383724A9F546908CA517E2039F6474@LAMBOUR>
References: <A8383724A9F546908CA517E2039F6474@LAMBOUR>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009152158250.15415@isis.mit.edu>

Why don't you just track down a good used tank. If money is the prob, a 
usable used tank should be a crapload less expensive.

Look up Bit of Britain (Mike Buonanduci). He's semi-local to the Boston 
area. Also call the usual supects like TSImportedautomotive.com and 
team-triumph.

Used gas tanks should be fairly easy to source.

On the other hand, you could install a race car fuel cell.

:-0

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From j.honor at comcast.net  Wed Sep 15 20:19:05 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 21:19:05 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 fuel tanks
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009152158250.15415@isis.mit.edu>
References: <A8383724A9F546908CA517E2039F6474@LAMBOUR>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009152158250.15415@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <32783C88-6712-4C72-9358-B40873123568@comcast.net>

I recommend having your tank repaired by a certified RENU shop I had a very
damaged jaguar xke tank literally 2 4inch rust patched and now like new but
lifetime national warranty that preserves our occasional use and ethanol
battered chemicals Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 15, 2010, at 9:01 PM, "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> Why don't you just track down a good used tank. If money is the prob, a
usable used tank should be a crapload less expensive.
>
> Look up Bit of Britain (Mike Buonanduci). He's semi-local to the Boston
area. Also call the usual supects like TSImportedautomotive.com and
team-triumph.
>
> Used gas tanks should be fairly easy to source.
>
> On the other hand, you could install a race car fuel cell.
>
> :-0
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> 2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Sep 15 20:41:34 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 15 Sep 2010 22:41:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake servo unit question
In-Reply-To: <6D7D49F860584132AF6ABDF35C5B62E5@LAMBOUR>
References: <6D7D49F860584132AF6ABDF35C5B62E5@LAMBOUR>
Message-ID: <3060EC98F5C44E6A91263CEDCA7E220B@BobPC>

Contact Ted Schumacher at TSI (http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/) for 
rebuilt units. You have to call as not everything is on his site. I have one 
of his servos and the price was right and the unit looks like new. 
And.........BTW...........Ted has been a Triumph friend for over 35 years.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Richard Lambour" <rlambour at comcast.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 15, 2010 9:18 PM
To: <net at lists.mv.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake servo unit question

> Hi,
>
>
>
> I'm rebuilding a 1970 TR-6 and have a brake servo unit question.  Mine has
> seen better days and probably needs to be rebuilt or replaced.   I've
> noticed that replacement is either expensive or impossible while 
> rebuilding
> appears to be relatively cheap.  I am curious whether there are any
> recommendations on this; do most of you rebuild or replace.
>
>
>
> Thanks very much!
>
>
>
> Rick
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Thu Sep 16 05:08:43 2010
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Thu, 16 Sep 2010 07:08:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Possible block cracks
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w4115C179DC2A8713290CF0F77A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w4115C179DC2A8713290CF0F77A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C91FABB.9060301@roadrunner.com>

  Are you certain you aren't looking at casting flash? I can't see a 
block cracking where you indicate.

Jim

On 9/15/2010 8:44 PM, John Johnson wrote:
> Hey All,
>              I wanted to get some quick feedback regarding some small possible
> cracks I found while disassembling a 2.0 liter GT6 engine I have. The hairline
> cracks are on the lifter galley side and run toward the lifter galley and not
> toward the cylinders. I spoke to someone very knowledgeable in these engines
> and he said he has not seen this although he mainly works with TR6 engines.
> Has anyone seen anything like this before? Is this a very rare occurrence? The
> rest of the engine looks great and the head gasket looked fine. I have
> pictures if you want a closer look. Any feedback would be helpful.
>
>                                         Thanks,
>                                      John Johnson
>                                     Columbus, Ohio
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimmble at roadrunner.com
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5453 (20100915) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From john70350 at msn.com  Fri Sep 17 11:37:22 2010
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Fri, 17 Sep 2010 17:37:22 +0000
Subject: [6pack] The smartest person I've never met (cracked GT6 block)
Message-ID: <BLU151-w59CF302BCD1274C6AD1BF0F77B0@phx.gbl>

Hi All,
          I wanted to thank everyone who answered my email regarding the
cracks I found on a GT6 engine I was tearing down. I really appreciate all of
the help. One of the people who responded was Vance Naverrette, someone who
was very helpful way back when I was doing my TR6. How he solved this from the
other side of the country is pretty impressive, here is his email.

"John:

        Thinking about this a bit more, I believe I can state confidently what
happened.

        At some point in the past, the studs at those two locations were
installed upside down. If you look at the studs, you will note that one end
has considerably more threads than the the other. The short threaded end is
the one that is supposed to be inserted in the block.
        When the longer threaded end is inserted into the block, there are not
enough threads on the top end to fully tighten the nut after installing the
head. The nut will run down on the stud until it bottoms out on the unthreaded
portion of the stud. From that point on, tightening the nut drives the stud
down into the block, where it bottoms out. Further tightening then splits the
block.

    I believe that a well intentioned amateur misassembled the engine, and
damaged the block as a result.

        Not that this makes it any happier a discovery. But I also believe
that you can use the block and it will be reliable.

        Vance"

After reading his email I went to the garage to check his theory. Since all of
the studs were out of the block I was not sure how I could check until I
remembered that one of those studs had it's threads damaged by my cheap Jeg's
stud puller. Sure, enough the previous owner installed the head studs upside
down. Amazing.


                                      Thanks again for the help,
                                         John Johnson

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Sep 18 08:29:04 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:29:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss
Message-ID: <83c1b.3cb6cff7.39c626b0@aol.com>

Is it possible that a disconnected vacuum retard line @ the dizzy could  
cause the bright white #6 plug.  Noticed that when I pulled the plugs the  
first time.  Not sure if I did it then or it was like that for a  while. This 
line goes to the rear carb.
 
Tested the intake manifold by spraying starter fluid while the Six was at  
idle.  No detectable increase in idle at all.  Afterwards I pulled #6  and 
it was no longer bright white but brown instead???
 
Darrell

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Sat Sep 18 12:26:13 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 11:26:13 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss
In-Reply-To: <83c1b.3cb6cff7.39c626b0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <EC62CC1D7A584F898A1A6D47CBD08A6C@HOMEBREW1>

	Might be a bad plug. Just got done tracking down a miss on my
TR6, replacing the plugs with a fresh set and cured the problem. The
miss occurred primarily under 2000 RPM, and was intermittent. Noticed it
most when pulling way from a stop sign. This might explain a whitish
plug if the spark were weak and/or not there although my plugs were a
uniform gray brown.

	The recommended plug (Champion RN12Y or RN9Y) are resistor
plugs. I think the resistor in them can go open, causing a miss. That is
what I suspect in my case.

	Champions are currently made in Mexico, and I am guessing that
the quality may have slipped.

	Vance

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Sep 18 13:49:21 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 19:49:21 GMT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss
Message-ID: <COL123-DS140FEFD77915191AD194C2F47C0@phx.gbl>

Darrell---A disconnected vacuum line (the one that goes from the bottom of the rear carb to the distributor vacuum retard) shouldn't cause the"white plug" you saw. This particular vacuum port on the carb doesn't do much of anything once the butterfly (throttle plate) is opened past the engine idle speed.

If the other two sparkplugs fed by the rear carb appeared to be of normal coloring, I'd suspect the cause of the white plug to be more a sign of a lean mixture for another reason. (Intake manifold gasket failure, or loose stud nut)? Put a socket on these nuts to see if they can be drawn up. Check this plug again after you've put some miles on the engine.

If you haven't already done so, you'll want to cap the vacuum port on the bottom of this carb. Just so it doesn't suck in dirt.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 7:29 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss

Is it possible that a disconnected vacuum retard line @ the dizzy could  
cause the bright white #6 plug.  Noticed that when I pulled the plugs the  
first time.  Not sure if I did it then or it was like that for a  while. This 
line goes to the rear carb.
 
Tested the intake manifold by spraying starter fluid while the Six was at  
idle.  No detectable increase in idle at all.  Afterwards I pulled #6  and 
it was no longer bright white but brown instead???
 
Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sat Sep 18 14:27:43 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 20:27:43 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] carbon cannister replacement
Message-ID: <868347832.1730093.1284841663007.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I am in process of replacing my valve coveron my 74 TR6B with new alloy from
TRF, used opportunity to check/replace hoses etc in inspection of carbon
cannister-had car 6 years never ever looked more than sideways, noticed the
gauze filter was fair condition-some carbob particles but intact etc. question
is should I replace? at Moss $88 a lot for questionalble value-car is running
well-fuel use/performance. let me know what you've done with this. Thanks-
regards, Joe

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Sat Sep 18 16:59:16 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 15:59:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] carbon cannister replacement
In-Reply-To: <868347832.1730093.1284841663007.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6DA7AD144C7345099BD71E423308122B@HOMEBREW1>

	Joe:

	Rebuild it, don't replace it.

	Get some activated carbon from your local pet supply store. It
is used for Aquarium air filters. Unscrew the bottom, and empty out the
old stuff, and replace it with the new carbon.

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of j.honor at comcast.net
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 1:28 PM
To: isoa at googlegroups.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] carbon cannister replacement


I am in process of replacing my valve coveron my 74 TR6B with new alloy
from
TRF, used opportunity to check/replace hoses etc in inspection of carbon
cannister-had car 6 years never ever looked more than sideways, noticed
the
gauze filter was fair condition-some carbob particles but intact etc.
question
is should I replace? at Moss $88 a lot for questionalble value-car is
running
well-fuel use/performance. let me know what you've done with this.
Thanks-
regards, Joe

From colinthom at shaw.ca  Sat Sep 18 17:48:54 2010
From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 16:48:54 -0700
Subject: [6pack] mistery miss
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1284832803.11118.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1284832803.11118.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000e01cb578c$0db27bf0$291773d0$@ca>

Hi Darrel,

I'm not familiar with your entire thread, but the disconnected vacuum line
would indeed lean your mixture out a bit. I don't know that it would make
only one plug turn white, though. An even brown is a good thing so that
leads me to think you've found the source of your problem...or at least one
of them if the miss is still there. How are the seals on your throttle
shafts? Worn ones can wreak havoc with mixture, carb synchronization and
idle speed.

IMHO, bypassing the entire vacuum system by plugging the line (a piece of
bicycle spoke works well) where it comes off the diaphragm unit on the
distributor doesn't harm the performance of your car and doing so removes
the entire mess from future diagnostic head-scratching. You'll need to
advance the timing to about 10 deg BTDC.

Colin Thom '75

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of 6pack-request at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 11:00 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 224

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Today's Topics:

   1. Re: [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss (TR250Driver at aol.com)


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 10:29:04 -0400 (EDT)
From: TR250Driver at aol.com
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <83c1b.3cb6cff7.39c626b0 at aol.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Is it possible that a disconnected vacuum retard line @ the dizzy could  
cause the bright white #6 plug.  Noticed that when I pulled the plugs the  
first time.  Not sure if I did it then or it was like that for a  while.
This 
line goes to the rear carb.
 
Tested the intake manifold by spraying starter fluid while the Six was at  
idle.  No detectable increase in idle at all.  Afterwards I pulled #6  and 
it was no longer bright white but brown instead???
 
Darrell


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
6pack mailing list
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 224
*************************************

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Sat Sep 18 19:07:59 2010
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 18:07:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss
References: <EC62CC1D7A584F898A1A6D47CBD08A6C@HOMEBREW1>
Message-ID: <F7E9755178B04BD5B5958422EEF2FCAE@office>

Just cured the very same problem--an irritating miss or stumble at tip in 
and always under 2,000 rpm--really prevalent when under load, and fully 
warmed up.

Could not get it to go away.  This morning I replaced the points and 
condenser, the cap and rotor, and cleaned the Champions plugs.  No stumble. 
My points were slightly burned.  I also richened the mixture a quarter turn 
thinking that it might be buring a little lean.  Didn't take the time to 
determine which component was the guilty one--just dumped then all in--set 
the points gap at .015", plugs at .025", and reset the timing.  Stumble is 
gone.

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Vance Navarrette" <v.navarrette at comcast.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 11:26 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 Mistery Miss


> Might be a bad plug. Just got done tracking down a miss on my
> TR6, replacing the plugs with a fresh set and cured the problem. The
> miss occurred primarily under 2000 RPM, and was intermittent. Noticed it
> most when pulling way from a stop sign. This might explain a whitish
> plug if the spark were weak and/or not there although my plugs were a
> uniform gray brown.
>
> The recommended plug (Champion RN12Y or RN9Y) are resistor
> plugs. I think the resistor in them can go open, causing a miss. That is
> what I suspect in my case.
>
> Champions are currently made in Mexico, and I am guessing that
> the quality may have slipped.
>
> Vance
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sat Sep 18 21:18:39 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Sat, 18 Sep 2010 22:18:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] carbon cannister replacement
In-Reply-To: <6DA7AD144C7345099BD71E423308122B@HOMEBREW1>
References: <6DA7AD144C7345099BD71E423308122B@HOMEBREW1>
Message-ID: <A44C4305-07DF-4173-80BE-585C21BDB727@comcast.net>

I'm off to the local aquarium supply house there's a joke in here thanks for
your help Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Sep 18, 2010, at 5:59 PM, "Vance Navarrette" <v.navarrette at comcast.net>
wrote:

>    Joe:
>
>    Rebuild it, don't replace it.
>
>    Get some activated carbon from your local pet supply store. It
> is used for Aquarium air filters. Unscrew the bottom, and empty out the
> old stuff, and replace it with the new carbon.
>
>    Vance
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of j.honor at comcast.net
> Sent: Saturday, September 18, 2010 1:28 PM
> To: isoa at googlegroups.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] carbon cannister replacement
>
>
> I am in process of replacing my valve coveron my 74 TR6B with new alloy
> from
> TRF, used opportunity to check/replace hoses etc in inspection of carbon
> cannister-had car 6 years never ever looked more than sideways, noticed
> the
> gauze filter was fair condition-some carbob particles but intact etc.
> question
> is should I replace? at Moss $88 a lot for questionalble value-car is
> running
> well-fuel use/performance. let me know what you've done with this.
> Thanks-
> regards, Joe

From dave at ranteer.com  Sun Sep 19 11:13:43 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 12:13:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] lube for tach cable
In-Reply-To: <BAY143-W19D69BE4410099C0D7AB48C6830@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY143-W19D69BE4410099C0D7AB48C6830@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <9DA7F8ED2F9B4358808FA330144CD224@ranteer.local>

my tach cable has started jumping around a bit at idle, and I was told to 
lube it.

checking what's on my garage shelf, here's what I have:

chain lube
silicone spray
heavy duty silicone spray
deoxit
kroil
pb blaster
white lithium grease spray
wd - 40

too many choices!!!!

what should I use???? 

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Sun Sep 19 12:28:29 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 11:28:29 -0700
Subject: [6pack] lube for tach cable
In-Reply-To: <9DA7F8ED2F9B4358808FA330144CD224@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1>

	Dave:

	My recommendation is something moderately heavy, that will not
evaporate. Remember that the lube you apply needs to do its job for many
years without failure.

	I use 80W/90 gear oil. It is thick, and will hang around for a
long time. Lubed my speedo three years ago, and it is still working
great. Next choice for me would be 20W/50 motor oil.

	I removed the drive wire from its sheath, dribbled oil all over
it, and reinstalled the wire, wiping up the excess. I did not want to do
that job again anytime soon, so I really went for the overkill.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of dave
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 10:14 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] lube for tach cable


my tach cable has started jumping around a bit at idle, and I was told
to 
lube it.

<snip>

too many choices!!!!

what should I use???? 

From john70350 at msn.com  Sun Sep 19 12:49:43 2010
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 18:49:43 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Making a repair on pipe threads
Message-ID: <BLU151-w5202200EBF25BF04AD71ACF77D0@phx.gbl>

Hi All,
         The cylinder head on a motor I got has bad threads on one of the pipe
fittings (3/8-18npt). Short of buying a very expensive Heli-Coil kit to make
the repair I wanted to see if anyone else has had to repair an npt hole in
cast iron? I will not need to use the hole for anything so it could
conceivable be sealed.

                                      Thanks,
                                 John Johnson
                               Columbus, Ohio

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Sun Sep 19 12:55:34 2010
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Bob McBride)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 14:55:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Making a repair on pipe threads
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w5202200EBF25BF04AD71ACF77D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w5202200EBF25BF04AD71ACF77D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <52ED212D58A746F2AA50F54632E36801@BobPC>

JB Weld??  Great stuff..

--------------------------------------------------
From: "John Johnson" <john70350 at msn.com>
Sent: Sunday, September 19, 2010 2:49 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Making a repair on pipe threads

> Hi All,
>         The cylinder head on a motor I got has bad threads on one of the 
> pipe
> fittings (3/8-18npt). Short of buying a very expensive Heli-Coil kit to 
> make
> the repair I wanted to see if anyone else has had to repair an npt hole in
> cast iron? I will not need to use the hole for anything so it could
> conceivable be sealed.
>
>                                      Thanks,
>                                 John Johnson
>                               Columbus, Ohio
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rmcbride at mi.rr.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Sep 19 14:11:49 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 19 Sep 2010 20:11:49 GMT
Subject: [6pack] lube for tach cable
Message-ID: <COL123-DS9557D9F8DC4AA2871E594F47D0@phx.gbl>

Dave---From what you have on the shelf, the Chain Lube will probably cling the best. If you don't live/drive the car in freezing temperatures, consider going for something even heavier, like Lubriplate (medium) grease.

Dick

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Sep 21 08:53:06 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 10:53:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 air rail threads
Message-ID: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net>

      Does anyone know what size threads are on a late model TR6 air 
rail where it attaches to the exhaust manifold?  I'm thinking it's a NPT 
thread, but I'm not real sure.  I want to pick up a tap to chase the 
threads in the manifold after ceramic coating.   Thanks for any help.  
John Mitchell  76TR6   72 Stag

From colinthom at shaw.ca  Tue Sep 21 15:10:28 2010
From: colinthom at shaw.ca (COLIN THOM)
Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 14:10:28 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Re air rail threads
In-Reply-To: <mailman.11.1285092003.10550.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.11.1285092003.10550.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <f324e2b63b57c.4c98bcd4@shaw.ca>

Hi John...you're right. It's NPT. Colin '75

----- Original Message -----
From: 6pack-request at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, September 21, 2010 11:02 am
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 227
To: 6pack at autox.team.net

> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 6pack-request at autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 6pack-owner at autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>    1. TR6 air rail threads (John Mitchell)
> 
> 
> -----------------------------------------------------------------
> -----
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 10:53:06 -0400
> From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
> Subject: [6pack] TR6 air rail threads
> To: 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>, Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Message-ID: <4C98C6D2.5020803 at snet.net>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed
> 
>       Does anyone know what size 
> threads are on a late model TR6 air 
> rail where it attaches to the exhaust manifold?  I'm 
> thinking it's a NPT 
> thread, but I'm not real sure.  I want to pick up a tap to 
> chase the 
> threads in the manifold after ceramic coating.   
> Thanks for any help.  
> John Mitchell  76TR6   72 Stag
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> 
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 227
> *************************************

From jattr6 at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 22 10:54:58 2010
From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 16:54:58 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 air rail threads
In-Reply-To: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net>
References: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net>
Message-ID: <BLU151-w1263B68C72B3AB8376E81180600@phx.gbl>

I replaced these myself years ago...I may have some spare piping with flange
nuts to check the threads.
I'll look around.
fyi, I believe i used basic brake line tubing and I cut/bent as needed and the
threads were perfectly matched
to what the auto store had in stock.

-j


> Date: Tue, 21 Sep 2010 10:53:06 -0400
> From: jmitch at snet.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] TR6 air rail threads
>
> Does anyone know what size threads are on a late model TR6 air
> rail where it attaches to the exhaust manifold? I'm thinking it's a NPT
> thread, but I'm not real sure. I want to pick up a tap to chase the
> threads in the manifold after ceramic coating. Thanks for any help.
> John Mitchell 76TR6 72 Stag
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jattr6 at hotmail.com

From jmitch at snet.net  Wed Sep 22 11:43:01 2010
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 13:43:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 air rail threads
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w1263B68C72B3AB8376E81180600@phx.gbl>
References: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net>
	<BLU151-w1263B68C72B3AB8376E81180600@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4C9A4025.7060303@snet.net>

  Thanks, that helps.  I guess my next question would be, are brake line 
connections a tapered thread?  John Mitchell

On 9/22/2010 12:54 PM, James_ TR6 wrote:
> I replaced these myself years ago...I may have some spare piping with 
> flange nuts to check the threads.
> I'll look around.
> fyi, I believe i used basic brake line tubing and I cut/bent as needed 
> and the threads were perfectly matched
> to what the auto store had in stock.
>
> -j
>
> > Does anyone know what size threads are on a late model TR6 air
> > rail where it attaches to the exhaust manifold? I'm thinking it's a NPT
> > thread, but I'm not real sure. I want to pick up a tap to chase the
> > threads in the manifold after ceramic coating. Thanks for any help.
> > John Mitchell 76TR6 72 Stag
> > _______________________________________________

From colinthom at shaw.ca  Wed Sep 22 13:48:08 2010
From: colinthom at shaw.ca (COLIN THOM)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 12:48:08 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Timing
Message-ID: <d0f7ab713bb5e.4c99fb08@shaw.ca>

Hi Gang..what's the verdict on ignition timing? Here are the details: 270 deg. duration cam with 108 deg lobe separation, stock rocker arm ratio, compression upped to 10 :1...maybe a bit higher, vacuum system disabled, running 86 octane smoothly enough, Pertronics...no points, Lucas high-output coil.  I'm getting some occasional back firing through the carbs when pulling away from a dead stop and am trying to figure out what's causing it. Currently the timing's set at about 14 deg BTDC at 825-850 rpm then idle is upped to 900-ish, which seems to have helped a bit. Thanks as always, Colin '75

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Sep 22 14:19:25 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 15:19:25 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Timing
In-Reply-To: <d0f7ab713bb5e.4c99fb08@shaw.ca>
References: <d0f7ab713bb5e.4c99fb08@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikL46Uke8D7bvS=avfz1WLr-S4v4bXWmc3hfbRE@mail.gmail.com>

On Wed, Sep 22, 2010 at 2:48 PM, COLIN THOM <colinthom at shaw.ca> wrote:

> Hi Gang..what's the verdict on ignition timing? Here are the details: 270
> deg. duration cam with 108 deg lobe separation, stock rocker arm ratio,
> compression upped to 10 :1...maybe a bit higher, vacuum system disabled,
> running 86 octane smoothly enough, Pertronics...no points, Lucas high-output
> coil.  I'm getting some occasional back firing through the carbs when
> pulling away from a dead stop and am trying to figure out what's causing it.
> Currently the timing's set at about 14 deg BTDC at 825-850 rpm then idle is
> upped to 900-ish, which seems to have helped a bit.
>


Is the backfire a recent development? If so, check out the plug wires. I
just went through the same thing last week with a similar engine
configuration, and it was the wires. They only had about 1500 miles on them,
and they were pricey (Magnecors), but 2 of them had already failed.

HTH,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 22 15:20:08 2010
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 14:20:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Timing
In-Reply-To: <d0f7ab713bb5e.4c99fb08@shaw.ca>
References: <d0f7ab713bb5e.4c99fb08@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <703199.29177.qm@web36105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Colin

Is your damper the original or has it been replace / renewed? If it is
the 
original than I would not trust the timing marks as the rubber in the
damper has 
probably deteriorated causing a variation of what you think the
timing is.

If you have your carbs balanced, try using a vacuum gauge to get
your timing 
adjusted. You want your vacuum under the 20 mark. 19.5 would be
good. For every 
1000 ft above sea level you live move it down a point. If you
have a steady 
vacuum needle then your engine is in good health. With the cam
you have there 
maybe a slight quiver to your needle. You should still be able
to get back to 
the 850 rpm range for your idle.

Dale
________________________________
From: COLIN THOM <colinthom at shaw.ca>
To:
6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Wed, September 22, 2010 3:48:08 PM
Subject: [6pack]
Ignition Timing

Hi Gang..what's the verdict on ignition timing? Here are the
details: 270 deg. 
duration cam with 108 deg lobe separation, stock rocker arm
ratio, compression 
upped to 10 :1...maybe a bit higher, vacuum system
disabled, running 86 octane 
smoothly enough, Pertronics...no points, Lucas
high-output coil.  I'm getting 
some occasional back firing through the carbs
when pulling away from a dead stop 
and am trying to figure out what's causing
it. Currently the timing's set at 
about 14 deg BTDC at 825-850 rpm then idle
is upped to 900-ish, which seems to 
have helped a bit. Thanks as always,
Colin '75
_______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:
http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Sep 22 16:53:00 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 22:53:00 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Timing
Message-ID: <COL123-DS119EFDA15ED0FF15E687C7F4600@phx.gbl>

Colin---While this could be ignition related, I'd suggest that you take a check on the valve lash. Generally speaking, a 270 cam needs more lash, like around .016-.018. Valves that open too soon (tight lash) tend to allow blowback into the intake at low engine speeds.  
If the lash is correct, then check the point gap, if this is what you have.

If the above is OK, try richening up the fuel mix to full rich, just to see if it makes any difference. If this helps, then start leaning out the mix 1/4 at a time to where the stumble/backfire happens again. Adjust accordingly. 

Also, with the 10:1+ CR, I'm surpised that the engine is happy on 86 octane, unless you are driving high in the mountains!

Dick

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Wed Sep 22 20:56:18 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:56:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Timing
In-Reply-To: <d0f7ab713bb5e.4c99fb08@shaw.ca>
Message-ID: <8A6F1ACF7C8D4C85BC50E2A7FFFE5282@HOMEBREW1>

	Colin:

	10 BTDC with the vacuum retard disconnected.

	Is it really a backfire or is it a miss? If it is spitting back
through the carbs then I guess it must be a backfire, yes? A miss would
not spit back through the carbs... Hmmm.

	One possibility is that you have an intake valve that is
misadjusted, independent of the fact that your timing is slightly
advanced. The advanced timing would cause knocking (or "pinking", as the
Queen's subjects would say). Backfiring occurs when the intake valve
doesn't close, allowing the combustion flame front to propagate back
into the intake manifold. 

	You didn't say when the cam went into the motor. Was it a recent
addition? If so, it is possible that the camshaft is misphased. It would
need to be waaaay off however, so unless it idles like home made dog
food, this seems unlikely.

	If your distributor rotor or cap is bad, the spark could
occasionally be jumping to the wrong plug tower I suppose. As the engine
revs the spark timing changes because of mechanical advance, making it
more difficult for the spark to jump to the wrong tower and the backfire
goes away.

	Dunno, just a couple of ideas to check out.

	BTW, my 6 runs very happily on 86 octane with 9.6:1 compression,
270 degree cam, Zenith carbs/B1AR needles and stock exhaust. 

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of COLIN THOM
Sent: Wednesday, September 22, 2010 12:48 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Timing


Hi Gang..what's the verdict on ignition timing? Here are the details:
270 deg. duration cam with 108 deg lobe separation, stock rocker arm
ratio, compression upped to 10 :1...maybe a bit higher, vacuum system
disabled, running 86 octane smoothly enough, Pertronics...no points,
Lucas high-output coil.  I'm getting some occasional back firing through
the carbs when pulling away from a dead stop and am trying to figure out
what's causing it. Currently the timing's set at about 14 deg BTDC at
825-850 rpm then idle is upped to 900-ish, which seems to have helped a
bit. Thanks as always, Colin '75

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Fri Sep 24 10:40:37 2010
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 09:40:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Timing
Message-ID: <153435.72527.qm@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

280 degree cam (PI cam specs), 9.5 compression, SUHS6,   Crane XR3000,  91 or
94 
Octane gas,  no anti-run on valve.  Hot lash at 18 as per cam sheet.  
Warm idle 
950-1000.   Gas price not an issue for the amount car is driven. 
Advanced Distributors just re-built and re-curved distributor, recommending 
10-14 degrees BTDC timimg.  I set it at 14.

Engine runs  nicely and pulls
well.  No knocking, pinging or running-on.

Bruce Simms

From jzagami at si.rr.com  Fri Sep 24 14:32:15 2010
From: jzagami at si.rr.com (jzagami at si.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 16:32:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 198
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1282672808.32150.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1282672808.32150.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <2BA503A65E214A56863FA4D196BE9E38@josephPC>

Alan,
        I am sending you two more pics of my car that may interest readers 
regarding threads a while back. Namely decal lettering for the dash and fog 
lamps for the bumper using the existing pre-drilled holes. Also the info 
somehow got jumbled on the new site. My car is sienna brown (code 
33)exterior; interior is new tan(code 23)  1971 original owner.
         Regards,
                    Joseph Zagami
--------------------------------------------------
From: <6pack-request at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, August 24, 2010 2:00 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 198

> Send 6pack mailing list submissions to
> 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> 6pack-request at autox.team.net
>
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> 6pack-owner at autox.team.net
>
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..."
>
>
> Today's Topics:
>
>   1. Looking for more pictures (Alan Atkinson)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:30:12 -0400
> From: Alan Atkinson <alanatkinson at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [6pack] Looking for more pictures
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Message-ID: <BAY143-W19D69BE4410099C0D7AB48C6830 at phx.gbl>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>
> About a year back I posted a request for pictures for the 6-Pack site.
> It was pretty well subscribed.
>
> Well the site's had a makeover.
> The pictures are in a much prettier gallery - if you don't go and aren't a
> total Luddite, you should check out the new site.
> I'm a bit biased, but I think it's an improvement on the old one.
>
> What I'd really like to get is a bunch more pics of 6's and 250's to add.
> Stock or not.
> Original paint or bright pink, all are welcome.
>
> If you'd like to see your car on the internet, send me a picture and a 
> brief
> description to webmaster at 6-pack.org
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Alan Atkinson
> 6-Pack webmaster.
>
>
> ------------------------------
>
> _______________________________________________
> 6pack mailing list
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>
> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 198
> ************************************* 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 6-pack 003.JPG]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 6-pack 012.JPG]

From jhmdds at aol.com  Fri Sep 24 21:00:54 2010
From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 24 Sep 2010 23:00:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Roll pins/dowels
Message-ID: <8CD2A7500AB214F-CE8-A3B8@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com>

I need new roll pins/dowels that support the intake/header assembly.  Can
anyone give me the correct dimensions and number so I can go to the local nut
and bolt and ask for the correct pieces without getting a funny look?

Thanks,

James

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Sat Sep 25 08:45:44 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Sat, 25 Sep 2010 10:45:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Roll pins/dowels
In-Reply-To: <8CD2A7500AB214F-CE8-A3B8@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CD2A7500AB214F-CE8-A3B8@Webmail-m123.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009251044520.15476@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 24 Sep 2010 jhmdds at aol.com wrote:

> I need new roll pins/dowels that support the intake/header assembly.  Can
> anyone give me the correct dimensions and number so I can go to the local nut
> and bolt and ask for the correct pieces without getting a funny look?

.325" or 3/8"

> Thanks,
>
> James

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net  Sun Sep 26 21:25:57 2010
From: hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net (Hugh R McAleer)
Date: Sun, 26 Sep 2010 23:25:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Petronix Ignition
In-Reply-To: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net>
References: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net>
Message-ID: <420E7CFE700D4445BE96D45ACA0FE399@FoxconnPC>

Hello Sixers!

I just picked up a '72 TR6 motor and it has a Petronix point replacement set 
up in the distributor.  It has two wires ( 1 red, 1 black ) coming out of 
it.  It also has a Bosch blue coil.

Is it supposed to have a control box of some sort?

Thanks in advance.
Hugh
Zebulon, GA 

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Sep 27 08:39:06 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:39:06 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Urethane bushing noise?
Message-ID: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
I have this annoying noise in the passenger side rear suspension of the  
TR6.  It has no pattern to it and randomly sounds like a click you would  get 
with a loose bolt?  I could get it to click by working the rear up and  down 
while the car was stationary.  So I jacked her up, nothing loose so  I 
freed the trailing arm from the shock link and took the spring out.   I could 
hear the click as I worked the arm up and down with a jack but it was  very 
difficult to tell if the noise was coming from the trailing arm bushings or  
the inner u-joint?  So I squirted some WD40 all over and let it sit  
overnite.  The noise is now gone.  
 
I know urethane bushings are notorious for being noisy.  I would have  
lubricated them when I installed them years ago.  It may be possible that  they 
have all dried out and just want to squeak and drive me nuts.  I  suppose it 
is also possible that the u-joint is bad and the wheel is getting  ready to 
fall off. It would take some further disassembly to really  check that out. 
I does not make any noise when the axle is turned.  I  can't really feel 
any play in the axle assembly.  
 
Any thoughts?
 
Thanks,
Darrell

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 27 13:05:50 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 15:05:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Urethane bushing noise?
In-Reply-To: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com>
References: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W26DC8DCF46AA461461A7CCBA650@phx.gbl>

Turn up the radio or maybe let Bev drive? :)

Marty

> From: TR250Driver at aol.com
> Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 10:39:06 -0400
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> CC: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Urethane bushing noise?
>
> Hey Guys,
> I have this annoying noise in the passenger side > Any thoughts?
>
> Thanks,
> Darrell

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Sep 27 13:12:18 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:12:18 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Urethane bushing noise?
Message-ID: <COL123-DS7BAE8A77A893BA5D09399F4650@phx.gbl>

Darrell---Squirting oil "all over" to get rid of the click now makes it more difficult to find the culprit, altho it will probably soon return. At that time you could try greasing the U-joint. If the click is still there, try either tightening all the (4) bolts that hold the t/a bracket to the frame rail. If these were not loose, next both either tighten or loosen the two large bolts at the t/a brackets. Go thru the motion that could make the click appear. (We're trying to locate the source, correcting comes later). 
If the sound is still present, remove the axle spline and grease this shaft. 
If that doesn't do it, you may have to pull the trailing arm bushings to inspect for excess wear or ovaling. exchange and/or more thorough greasing.

Good hunting!

Dick

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Sep 27 13:27:23 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 13:27:23 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Urethane bushing noise?
In-Reply-To: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com>
References: <16112.4190e136.39d2068a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <65A90251-3F68-4911-A8DB-B5EFA1EF46EE@comcast.net>

Darrell,

If the noise comes back try dabbing marine wheel bearing grease (its a  
blue/green color) around the edges of the bushings and any interface  
that might "take up" the grease.  My front sway bar urethane bushings  
started to make noise after being installed and I DIDN'T know to  
grease them beforehand so on advice from the list I tried the marine  
grease and they quieted down and haven't had a problem since (12  
years)...except that now that I've said that I'll probably regret it.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Sep 27, 2010, at 8:39 AM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:

> So I squirted some WD40 all over and let it sit
> overnite.  The noise is now gone.

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Sep 27 17:04:45 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 19:04:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Urethane bushing noise?
Message-ID: <14272.6d806035.39d27d0d@aol.com>

That sounds good Bud,
Cover tem in Marine Grease.  Much better than WD40!!!
Thanks,
Darrell
 
 
In a message dated 9/27/2010 3:27:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
levilevi at comcast.net writes:

Darrell,

If the noise comes back try dabbing marine wheel  bearing grease (its a  
blue/green color) around the edges of the  bushings and any interface  
that might "take up" the grease.  My  front sway bar urethane bushings  
started to make noise after being  installed and I DIDN'T know to  
grease them beforehand so on advice  from the list I tried the marine  
grease and they quieted down and  haven't had a problem since (12  
years)...except that now that I've  said that I'll probably regret it.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6  CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A  CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support  Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit  Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Sep 27, 2010, at 8:39 AM,  TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:

> So I squirted some WD40 all over and  let it sit
> overnite.  The noise is now  gone.

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 27 19:59:39 2010
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 21:59:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Need a part for a 250
Message-ID: <BAY143-W1358C817596827996E3DA2C6660@phx.gbl>

I'm looking for a bonnet for a 250.
Mine's needing way more work than will prove economic to fix.
Anyone have a good one they are willing to part with?

Reply off list to save cluttering this up.
TIA, Alan

From jhmdds at aol.com  Mon Sep 27 21:11:55 2010
From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 27 Sep 2010 23:11:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tr6 manifold hardware
Message-ID: <8CD2CD209E88385-17C4-50BE@webmail-d020.sysops.aol.com>

I just got some new manifold studs and saw that the threaded ends are not the
same length.  Does the longer threaded portion or the shorter portion go into
the side of the head?  Also does anyone know the length of the spring or roll
pins?  The only ones at the local hardware store are 3/8"x 2 1/2".  Not only
do they look too long but they look too big to fit into the holes.

Thanks,

James

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep 28 00:56:37 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 06:56:37 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Tr6 manifold hardware
Message-ID: <COL123-DS99962F4A8F2EA2163A189F4660@phx.gbl>

James---As with every stud on the TR (that I can think of) the end with fewer threads goes into the tapped holes.
Can't help with the spring pins, but I think Bob Lang answered this one a couple of days ago?

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: jhmdds at aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 27, 2010 8:11 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Tr6 manifold hardware

I just got some new manifold studs and saw that the threaded ends are not the
same length.  Does the longer threaded portion or the shorter portion go into
the side of the head?  Also does anyone know the length of the spring or roll
pins?  The only ones at the local hardware store are 3/8"x 2 1/2".  Not only
do they look too long but they look too big to fit into the holes.

Thanks,

James
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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From tr6driver at earthlink.net  Tue Sep 28 14:12:51 2010
From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer)
Date: Tue, 28 Sep 2010 16:12:51 -0400 (GMT-04:00)
Subject: [6pack] Euro or other taller differential needed
Message-ID: <12903364.1285704771705.JavaMail.root@wamui-june.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

RiffRAF Racing is in need of a TR6 differential with a taller rear end ratio (i.e. numerically smaller) than the stock 3.7:1 US setup.  One possibility would be the 3.45:1 from a PI car.  We're open to other suggestions, but since our car is supposed to be worth no more than $500 by the rules, some of the more common (for example, the GoodParts conversions) are out of our reach.

Anyone got a Euro diff around?

The car is at max RPM way early on straights.  For example, we were at the rev limit for the entire front straight at Roebling Road, and were actually driving the entire course in 4th gear.  Even at Sebring last weekend, when our engine was entirely off song, we could hit max RPM really quickly.

An overdrive would push the car past the race series value limit, and while taller tires would help, they would also hurt the handling considerably (we're currently using 205/50-15 Falken RT615K's on stock wheels due to treadwear rules and wheel cost rules).

All suggestions are appreciated...thanks.

Jamie Palmer
RiffRAF Racing
1975 TR6 ChumpCar

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Sep 30 01:28:54 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 03:28:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive part VIII
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1009300327130.19241@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Shot some in-car last Sunday.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toz07a_2RVI

enjoy!
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From mbarre at juno.com  Thu Sep 30 13:09:37 2010
From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 19:09:37 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Bob's in car
Message-ID: <20100930.150937.11201.1@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>

Bob wrote:
Shot some in-car last Sunday.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=toz07a_2RVI
rml


Wow!  NIce.

And I thought we used to have some wide open courses down at Bronson west of
Pensacola.

I have got to get the Spit back in action after a 7 year hiatus.
Now that I am living in Columbus, GA, I will probably end up running in
Atlanta at Turner Field.
Although I have heard the wiregrass folks have some fun not too far away.

Matt

____________________________________________________________
2010 Credit Scores
Click to View Your 2010 Credit Scores Now! All 3 Scores FREE !
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4ca4e0cdd51d5179f5st06vuc

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Sep 30 13:14:53 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 15:14:53 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <aef25.11fd7e83.39d63bad@aol.com>

Listers,
 
I understand that the clutch slave cylinder pushrod for TR3s and TR4s is  
adjustable. Would anyone know if this could directly replace the TR6  
non-adjustable unit ?
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Thu Sep 30 13:30:26 2010
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (aldwyn at sylvancircle.org)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 15:30:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <aef25.11fd7e83.39d63bad@aol.com>
References: <aef25.11fd7e83.39d63bad@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20100930153026.7jyav9ol4wwc08oc@webmail.sylvancircle.org>

I have an adjustable pushrod on my '76 TR6 that I got from BPNW when I  
rebuilt my clutch hydrolics.  But I understand that it doesnt make  
much of a difference, as the slave on the TR6 is supposed to be self  
adjusting.

I have never seen a TR3/4 rod, so not sure if they would be the  
same...  But if you are simply looking for a adjustable pushrod for a  
TR6, BPNW has them.

- Aldwyn

Quoting Vsnively at aol.com:

> Listers,
>
> I understand that the clutch slave cylinder pushrod for TR3s and TR4s is
> adjustable. Would anyone know if this could directly replace the TR6
> non-adjustable unit ?
>
> Regards,
> Vic Snively
> '75 TR6  w/AC
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:   
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aldwyn at sylvancircle.org

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Sep 30 14:15:30 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:15:30 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <COL123-DS5FE595B81B53080EA4985F4680@phx.gbl>

Vic---I don't know what the SC differences are between the four and the six, but the Triumph factory must have felt the self adjusting later design was better.  The later SC, with its internal spring, keeps all of the play out of the linkage between the SC pushrod up to the clutch fingers. Apparantly the TR4 needed to have this rod adjusted when play developed in the clutch mechanism. No such adjustment is needed with the six.  However, if there is play in the linkage down in the pedal box, it must be corrected to get the full stroke of the clutch pedal. (The adjustable pushrod will not get back this lost motion).

The question might be: Would the later SC be a better choice for the TR3/4? (I don't know the bore size, bolt flange dimension, etc.)

Dick

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Thu Sep 30 14:31:36 2010
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:31:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS5FE595B81B53080EA4985F4680@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS5FE595B81B53080EA4985F4680@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <6950866c51d9a.4ca4bb68@wright.edu>

I believe the 2,3,4's had a return spring on the slave cylinder. This would cause the SS piston to return to its 'home' position wherever that was. The adjustable push rod was needed to maintain proper clearance between the TO bearing and PP. The rods on the 6 just sort of float out there and clearance between PP and TO is minimal. Adjustable rod on the 6 will make no difference unless a return spring is attached to the clutch release arm as in TR4. At least that's how I remember it and  the more time that goes by the bigger the memory ? becomes.
Bill
'70 6   original owner

----- Original Message -----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Date: Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:15 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
To: Vsnively at aol.com, 6pack at autox.team.net

> Vic---I don't know what the SC differences are between the four 
> and the six, but the Triumph factory must have felt the self 
> adjusting later design was better.  The later SC, with its 
> internal spring, keeps all of the play out of the linkage 
> between the SC pushrod up to the clutch fingers. Apparantly the 
> TR4 needed to have this rod adjusted when play developed in the 
> clutch mechanism. No such adjustment is needed with the 
> six.  However, if there is play in the linkage down in the 
> pedal box, it must be corrected to get the full stroke of the 
> clutch pedal. (The adjustable pushrod will not get back this 
> lost motion).
> 
> The question might be: Would the later SC be a better choice for 
> the TR3/4? (I don't know the bore size, bolt flange dimension, etc.)
> 
> Dick
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/william.mcintire at wright.edu

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Sep 30 14:33:26 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:33:26 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <b4486.6b0337c4.39d64e16@aol.com>

Dick,
 
I've got under 20K on a new clutch. I was having difficulty getting into  
reverse, and it was scratching in the lower gears. I moved the pushrod to the 
 upper hole on the actuation arm, problem solved, so my self-adjuster 
obviously  isn't working, despite the fact it's new. The spring in the old one 
and the new  one seem very weak. 
 
Thanks,
Vic
 
 
In a message dated 9/30/2010 4:15:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr6taylor at webtv.net writes:

Vic---I  don't know what the SC differences are between the four and the 
six, but the  Triumph factory must have felt the self adjusting later design 
was  better.  The later SC, with its internal spring, keeps all of the play  
out of the linkage between the SC pushrod up to the clutch fingers. 
Apparantly  the TR4 needed to have this rod adjusted when play developed in the 
clutch  mechanism. No such adjustment is needed with the six.  However, if there 
 is play in the linkage down in the pedal box, it must be corrected to get 
the  full stroke of the clutch pedal. (The adjustable pushrod will not get 
back  this lost motion).

The question might be: Would the later SC be a  better choice for the 
TR3/4? (I don't know the bore size, bolt flange  dimension, etc.)

Dick

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Sep 30 14:34:24 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:34:24 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <b4595.22a054a4.39d64e50@aol.com>

Thanks Bill
 
 
In a message dated 9/30/2010 4:32:41 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
william.mcintire at wright.edu writes:

I  believe the 2,3,4's had a return spring on the slave cylinder. This 
would  cause the SS piston to return to its 'home' position wherever that was. 
The  adjustable push rod was needed to maintain proper clearance between the 
TO  bearing and PP. The rods on the 6 just sort of float out there and 
clearance  between PP and TO is minimal. Adjustable rod on the 6 will make no 
difference  unless a return spring is attached to the clutch release arm as in 
TR4. At  least that's how I remember it and  the more time that goes by the 
bigger  the memory ? becomes.
Bill
'70 6   original owner

-----  Original Message -----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor  <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Date: Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:15  pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
To: Vsnively at aol.com,  6pack at autox.team.net

> Vic---I don't know what the SC differences  are between the four 
> and the six, but the Triumph factory must have  felt the self 
> adjusting later design was better.  The later SC,  with its 
> internal spring, keeps all of the play out of the linkage  
> between the SC pushrod up to the clutch fingers. Apparantly the  
> TR4 needed to have this rod adjusted when play developed in the  
> clutch mechanism. No such adjustment is needed with the 
>  six.  However, if there is play in the linkage down in the 
> pedal  box, it must be corrected to get the full stroke of the 
> clutch pedal.  (The adjustable pushrod will not get back this 
> lost motion).
>  
> The question might be: Would the later SC be a better choice for  
> the TR3/4? (I don't know the bore size, bolt flange dimension,  etc.)
> 
> Dick
>  _______________________________________________
> 
>  6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/william.mcintire at wright.edu
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Thu Sep 30 14:34:21 2010
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:34:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS5FE595B81B53080EA4985F4680@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS5FE595B81B53080EA4985F4680@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <69d0de0e50aac.4ca4bc0d@wright.edu>

I believe the 2,3,4's had a return spring on the slave cylinder. This would cause the SS piston to return to its 'home' position wherever that was. The adjustable push rod was needed to maintain proper clearance between the TO bearing and PP. The rods on the 6 just sort of float out there and clearance between PP and TO is minimal. Adjustable rod on the 6 will make no difference unless a return spring is attached to the clutch release arm as in TR4. At least that's how I remember it and  the more time that goes by the bigger the memory ? becomes.
Bill
'70 6   original owner

----- Original Message -----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Date: Thursday, September 30, 2010 4:15 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
To: Vsnively at aol.com, 6pack at autox.team.net

> Vic---I don't know what the SC differences are between the four 
> and the six, but the Triumph factory must have felt the self 
> adjusting later design was better.  The later SC, with its 
> internal spring, keeps all of the play out of the linkage 
> between the SC pushrod up to the clutch fingers. Apparantly the 
> TR4 needed to have this rod adjusted when play developed in the 
> clutch mechanism. No such adjustment is needed with the 
> six.  However, if there is play in the linkage down in the 
> pedal box, it must be corrected to get the full stroke of the 
> clutch pedal. (The adjustable pushrod will not get back this 
> lost motion).
> 
> The question might be: Would the later SC be a better choice for 
> the TR3/4? (I don't know the bore size, bolt flange dimension, etc.)
> 
> Dick

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Thu Sep 30 15:02:11 2010
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 16:02:11 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <b4486.6b0337c4.39d64e16@aol.com>
References: <b4486.6b0337c4.39d64e16@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimgqb7RuipTHsNX-zFeFZkgzf42G69VNi9KO5nV@mail.gmail.com>

There could be wear in the pedal box or in the clevis pin, A little
wear there can cause those same symptoms.

Shawn

On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at 3:33 PM,  <Vsnively at aol.com> wrote:
> Dick,
>
> I've got under 20K on a new clutch. I was having difficulty getting into
> reverse, and it was scratching in the lower gears. I moved the pushrod to
the
>  upper hole on the actuation arm, problem solved, so my self-adjuster
> obviously  isn't working, despite the fact it's new. The spring in the old
one
> and the new  one seem very weak.
>
> Thanks,
> Vic
>
>
> In a message dated 9/30/2010 4:15:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
> tr6taylor at webtv.net writes:
>
> Vic---I  don't know what the SC differences are between the four and the
> six, but the  Triumph factory must have felt the self adjusting later
design
> was  better.  The later SC, with its internal spring, keeps all of the play
> out of the linkage between the SC pushrod up to the clutch fingers.
> Apparantly  the TR4 needed to have this rod adjusted when play developed in
the
> clutch  mechanism. No such adjustment is needed with the six.  However, if
there
>  is play in the linkage down in the pedal box, it must be corrected to get
> the  full stroke of the clutch pedal. (The adjustable pushrod will not get
> back  this lost motion).
>
> The question might be: Would the later SC be a  better choice for the
> TR3/4? (I don't know the bore size, bolt flange  dimension, etc.)
>
> Dick
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shawn.loseke at gmail.com

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Sep 30 15:20:09 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:20:09 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <b7492.7661077d.39d65909@aol.com>

Thanks Shawn
 
 
In a message dated 9/30/2010 5:06:00 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
shawn.loseke at gmail.com writes:

There  could be wear in the pedal box or in the clevis pin, A little
wear there  can cause those same symptoms.

Shawn

On Thu, Sep 30, 2010 at  3:33 PM,  <Vsnively at aol.com> wrote:
> Dick,
>
>  I've got under 20K on a new clutch. I was having difficulty getting  into
> reverse, and it was scratching in the lower gears. I moved the  pushrod to
the
>  upper hole on the actuation arm, problem  solved, so my self-adjuster
> obviously  isn't working, despite the  fact it's new. The spring in the 
old
one
> and the new  one seem  very weak.
>
> Thanks,
> Vic
>
>
> In a  message dated 9/30/2010 4:15:32 PM Eastern Daylight Time,
>  tr6taylor at webtv.net writes:
>
> Vic---I  don't know what the  SC differences are between the four and the
> six, but the  Triumph  factory must have felt the self adjusting later
design
> was   better.  The later SC, with its internal spring, keeps all of the  
play
> out of the linkage between the SC pushrod up to the clutch  fingers.
> Apparantly  the TR4 needed to have this rod adjusted  when play developed 
in
the
> clutch  mechanism. No such  adjustment is needed with the six.  However, 
if
there
>  is  play in the linkage down in the pedal box, it must be corrected to 
get
>  the  full stroke of the clutch pedal. (The adjustable pushrod will not  
get
> back  this lost motion).
>
> The question might  be: Would the later SC be a  better choice for the
> TR3/4? (I  don't know the bore size, bolt flange  dimension, etc.)
>
>  Dick
> _______________________________________________
>
>  6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shawn.loseke at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
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Unsubscribe/Manage:  
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From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Thu Sep 30 15:38:27 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:38:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
Message-ID: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>

What is the recommended oil for the gearcase/OD?
My manual says 80/90 hypoid gear oil,
but an old Britcar mechanic says 30W.
This puzzles me.
Any comments?

Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Thu Sep 30 15:59:58 2010
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 17:59:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
In-Reply-To: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>
References: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <6950b8b551b1d.4ca4d01e@wright.edu>

FWIW mine has had 80/90 W  in it for the last 40 years. Type 'A' OD. Neither it or the trans have ever been apart, still work as intended. ... Well, one of the lockout switches is getting a little tired, oops?

Bill
'70  6   Original owner

----- Original Message -----
From: Douglas Morris <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
Date: Thursday, September 30, 2010 5:38 pm
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>

> What is the recommended oil for the gearcase/OD?
> My manual says 80/90 hypoid gear oil,
> but an old Britcar mechanic says 30W.
> This puzzles me.
> Any comments?
> 
> Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
> _______________________________________________

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 30 18:16:10 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 20:16:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Bob's in car
In-Reply-To: <20100930.150937.11201.1@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20100930.150937.11201.1@webmail11.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W11A638C16B8EB99DC402F2BA690@phx.gbl>

Matt, since you are in GA bring the Spitfire to the VTR convention and do the
autox on Jekyll Island. it will be at the airport there and it is a wonderful
spot and top notch surface to run on. There will be a handful of spitfires to
compete against. Hope you consider coming.

Marty

> Wow!  NIce.
>
> And I thought we used to have some wide open courses down at Bronson west
of
> Pensacola.
>
> I have got to get the Spit back in action after a 7 year hiatus.
> Now that I am living in Columbus, GA, I will probably end up running in
> Atlanta at Turner Field.
> Although I have heard the wiregrass folks have some fun not too far away.
>
> Matt

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Thu Sep 30 19:23:24 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 18:23:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <b4486.6b0337c4.39d64e16@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D6434C1977BA471A87645E8C663741CF@HOMEBREW1>

	Vic:

	Normally hooking the pushrod to the upper hole is a band-aid at
best, and you can expect the clutch operation to degrade further until
this is no longer sufficient.
	You may be one of the few to skate by with this indefinitely,
but if you are like most people with clutch issues they will return
shortly. The only lasting solution is to find out what necessitated
using the upper hole and correct the root cause.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Vsnively at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 1:33 PM
To: tr6taylor at webtv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod


Dick,
 
I've got under 20K on a new clutch. I was having difficulty getting into

reverse, and it was scratching in the lower gears. I moved the pushrod
to the 
 upper hole on the actuation arm, problem solved, so my self-adjuster 
obviously  isn't working, despite the fact it's new. The spring in the
old one 
and the new  one seem very weak. 
 
Thanks,
Vic

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Sep 30 19:36:12 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:36:12 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <e257.20f027e6.39d6950c@aol.com>

Thanks Vance
 
 
In a message dated 9/30/2010 9:23:28 PM Eastern Daylight Time,  
v.navarrette at comcast.net writes:

Vic:

Normally hooking the pushrod to the upper  hole is a band-aid at
best, and you can expect the clutch operation to  degrade further until
this is no longer sufficient.
You  may be one of the few to skate by with this indefinitely,
but if you are  like most people with clutch issues they will return
shortly. The only  lasting solution is to find out what necessitated
using the upper hole and  correct the root cause.

Vance

-----Original  Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net  [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of  Vsnively at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, September 30, 2010 1:33 PM
To:  tr6taylor at webtv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave  pushrod


Dick,

I've got under 20K on a new clutch. I was  having difficulty getting into

reverse, and it was scratching in the  lower gears. I moved the pushrod
to the 
upper hole on the actuation  arm, problem solved, so my self-adjuster 
obviously  isn't working,  despite the fact it's new. The spring in the
old one 
and the new   one seem very weak.  

Thanks,
Vic