From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri Oct  1 06:55:16 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 12:55:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <e257.20f027e6.39d6950c@aol.com>
References: <e257.20f027e6.39d6950c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W23C9782EFD6ABF4D4322518E690@phx.gbl>

Vic,
Mine has the exact same problem, clutch release point almost on the floor.
It's at the shop now, tranny out, fixing the pin on the thing-a-ma-gig that
has the hollowered out hole, causing the angle of the 3 hole lever to be
wrong. I used to have about a dozen washers used as a shim to push the slave
cylinder out about an inch, but it still didn't really help much. I can concur
that using that top hole won't work for long either. I'm sure looking forward
to no longer having to switch it off to get it in 1st or Reverse.

Check out this site. Everything you ever wanted to know and even a description
of someone else who tried the dozen washer shim approach and even lengthened
the push rod.

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hydra
ulics.htm

Sloane :)
69-Six


> From: Vsnively at aol.com
> Date: Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:36:12 -0400
> To: v.navarrette at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
>
> Thanks Vance

From Vsnively at aol.com  Fri Oct  1 07:02:08 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:02:08 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <ba9a.5f943b60.39d735d0@aol.com>

Thanks Jim. The pin was my first thought. I replaced everything mechanical  
at clutch time, I think I even used the special hardened pin from TRF. 
 
 
In a message dated 10/1/2010 8:55:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:

Vic,
Mine has the exact same problem, clutch release point almost on  the floor. 
It's at the shop now, tranny out, fixing the pin on the  thing-a-ma-gig 
that has the hollowered out hole, causing the angle of  the 3 hole lever to be 
wrong. I used to have about a dozen washers  used as a shim to push the 
slave cylinder out about an inch, but it still  didn't really help much. I can 
concur that using that top hole won't  work for long either. I'm sure looking 
forward to no longer having to switch  it off to get it in 1st or Reverse. 

Check out this site.  Everything you ever wanted to know and even a 
description of someone else who  tried the dozen washer shim approach and even 
lengthened the push rod.  

_http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hyd
raulics.htm_ 
(http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hydraulics.htm) 

Sloane  :)
69-Six


> From: Vsnively at aol.com
> Date:  Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:36:12 -0400
> To: v.navarrette at comcast.net;  6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
>  
> Thanks Vance
> 
> 
=

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Fri Oct  1 07:40:34 2010
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 08:40:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <ba9a.5f943b60.39d735d0@aol.com>
References: <ba9a.5f943b60.39d735d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=c2re_iq7VHA-X3ZF_MyrnXyLG7m2wfCGpEOZJ@mail.gmail.com>

The most neglected part of the clutch system is the pedal box and the
clevis attaching the clutch master to the pedal. I have seen those
clevis pins so worn that they look like crankshafts. The bushings that
the clutch and brake pedal pivot on can also wear out and is often
overlooked. Which is a shame considering how easy it is to pull out
the pedal assembly. I know I said this before but reiterating it for
the benefit of all. More slop up there equal less stroke in the
master, which mean less stroke from the slave.

Shawn

On Fri, Oct 1, 2010 at 8:02 AM,  <Vsnively at aol.com> wrote:
> Thanks Jim. The pin was my first thought. I replaced everything mechanical
> at clutch time, I think I even used the special hardened pin from TRF.
>
>
> In a message dated 10/1/2010 8:55:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:
>
> Vic,
> Mine has the exact same problem, clutch release point almost on  the floor.
> It's at the shop now, tranny out, fixing the pin on the  thing-a-ma-gig
> that has the hollowered out hole, causing the angle of  the 3 hole lever to
be
> wrong. I used to have about a dozen washers  used as a shim to push the
> slave cylinder out about an inch, but it still  didn't really help much. I
can
> concur that using that top hole won't  work for long either. I'm sure
looking
> forward to no longer having to switch  it off to get it in 1st or Reverse.
>
> Check out this site.  Everything you ever wanted to know and even a
> description of someone else who  tried the dozen washer shim approach and
even
> lengthened the push rod.
>
>
_http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hyd
> raulics.htm_
>
(http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hydr
aulics.htm)
>
> Sloane  :)
> 69-Six
>
>
>> From: Vsnively at aol.com
>> Date:  Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:36:12 -0400
>> To: v.navarrette at comcast.net;  6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
>>
>> Thanks Vance
>>
>>
> =
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shawn.loseke at gmail.com

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Oct  1 07:56:17 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:56:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
References: <ba9a.5f943b60.39d735d0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <71034ACA82A34658812ACA9B78032824@Alan>

I also went throught the same problem.
Clutch grabing near the floor.
Replaced the pedal box. elongated hole.
Tried the adjustable rod, not the answer.
Should work fine with regular rod or something else is wrong.
New cross shaft, fork & pin..
Another throw out bearing.
I shouldn't admit this, but:
Swaped clutches. (used) there was a reason it was lying around)
Tried the upper hole ; was just a temporary fix.
The problem came back and there were no more holes to go to.
Finally bit the bullet and ordered the Sachs Clutch from BPNW.
I did notice that the throw out bearing that came with the kit was bigger 
then the stock one that was in the car the last time I replaced it.

Good to go now.

Al Salvatore


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Vsnively at aol.com>
To: <im_sloane at hotmail.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2010 9:02 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod


> Thanks Jim. The pin was my first thought. I replaced everything mechanical
> at clutch time, I think I even used the special hardened pin from TRF.
>
>
> In a message dated 10/1/2010 8:55:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
> im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:
>
> Vic,
> Mine has the exact same problem, clutch release point almost on  the 
> floor.
> It's at the shop now, tranny out, fixing the pin on the  thing-a-ma-gig
> that has the hollowered out hole, causing the angle of  the 3 hole lever 
> to be
> wrong. I used to have about a dozen washers  used as a shim to push the
> slave cylinder out about an inch, but it still  didn't really help much. I 
> can
> concur that using that top hole won't  work for long either. I'm sure 
> looking
> forward to no longer having to switch  it off to get it in 1st or Reverse.
>
> Check out this site.  Everything you ever wanted to know and even a
> description of someone else who  tried the dozen washer shim approach and 
> even
> lengthened the push rod.
>
> _http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hyd
> raulics.htm_
> (http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hydraulics.htm)
>
> Sloane  :)
> 69-Six
>
>
>> From: Vsnively at aol.com
>> Date:  Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:36:12 -0400
>> To: v.navarrette at comcast.net;  6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
>>
>> Thanks Vance
>>
>>
> =
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net

From Vsnively at aol.com  Fri Oct  1 07:57:37 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:57:37 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <f00a.6ba314f9.39d742d1@aol.com>

Thanks Shawn
 
In a message dated 10/1/2010 9:42:09 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
shawn.loseke at gmail.com writes:

The most  neglected part of the clutch system is the pedal box and the
clevis  attaching the clutch master to the pedal. I have seen those
clevis pins so  worn that they look like crankshafts. The bushings that
the clutch and  brake pedal pivot on can also wear out and is often
overlooked. Which is a  shame considering how easy it is to pull out
the pedal assembly. I know I  said this before but reiterating it for
the benefit of all. More slop up  there equal less stroke in the
master, which mean less stroke from the  slave.

Shawn

On Fri, Oct 1, 2010 at 8:02 AM,   <Vsnively at aol.com> wrote:
> Thanks Jim. The pin was my first  thought. I replaced everything 
mechanical
> at clutch time, I think I  even used the special hardened pin from TRF.
>
>
> In a  message dated 10/1/2010 8:55:16 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
>  im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:
>
> Vic,
> Mine has the exact  same problem, clutch release point almost on  the 
floor.
> It's at  the shop now, tranny out, fixing the pin on the  thing-a-ma-gig
>  that has the hollowered out hole, causing the angle of  the 3 hole lever 
 to
be
> wrong. I used to have about a dozen washers  used as a  shim to push the
> slave cylinder out about an inch, but it still   didn't really help much. 
I
can
> concur that using that top hole  won't  work for long either. I'm sure
looking
> forward to no  longer having to switch  it off to get it in 1st or  
Reverse.
>
> Check out this site.  Everything you ever wanted  to know and even a
> description of someone else who  tried the  dozen washer shim approach and
even
> lengthened the push  rod.
>
>
_http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hyd
>  raulics.htm_
>
(http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hyd
r
aulics.htm)
>
>  Sloane  :)
> 69-Six
>
>
>> From:  Vsnively at aol.com
>> Date:  Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:36:12  -0400
>> To: v.navarrette at comcast.net;   6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave  pushrod
>>
>> Thanks Vance
>>
>>
>  =
> _______________________________________________
>
>  6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
>  Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shawn.loseke at gmail.com
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com

From Vsnively at aol.com  Fri Oct  1 07:59:03 2010
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 09:59:03 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <f171.2ae104cd.39d74327@aol.com>

Thanks Vance
 
 
In a message dated 10/1/2010 9:56:14 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
tr6parts at charter.net writes:

I also  went throught the same problem.
Clutch grabing near the floor.
Replaced  the pedal box. elongated hole.
Tried the adjustable rod, not the  answer.
Should work fine with regular rod or something else is  wrong.
New cross shaft, fork & pin..
Another throw out bearing.
I  shouldn't admit this, but:
Swaped clutches. (used) there was a reason it  was lying around)
Tried the upper hole ; was just a temporary fix.
The  problem came back and there were no more holes to go to.
Finally bit the  bullet and ordered the Sachs Clutch from BPNW.
I did notice that the throw  out bearing that came with the kit was bigger 
then the stock one that was  in the car the last time I replaced it.

Good to go now.

Al  Salvatore


----- Original Message ----- 
From:  <Vsnively at aol.com>
To: <im_sloane at hotmail.com>;  <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2010 9:02  AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod


> Thanks Jim.  The pin was my first thought. I replaced everything 
mechanical
> at  clutch time, I think I even used the special hardened pin from  TRF.
>
>
> In a message dated 10/1/2010 8:55:16 AM Eastern  Daylight Time,
> im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:
>
>  Vic,
> Mine has the exact same problem, clutch release point almost  on  the 
> floor.
> It's at the shop now, tranny out, fixing  the pin on the  thing-a-ma-gig
> that has the hollowered out hole,  causing the angle of  the 3 hole lever 
> to be
> wrong. I  used to have about a dozen washers  used as a shim to push the
>  slave cylinder out about an inch, but it still  didn't really help much. 
 I 
> can
> concur that using that top hole won't  work for  long either. I'm sure 
> looking
> forward to no longer having to  switch  it off to get it in 1st or 
Reverse.
>
> Check out  this site.  Everything you ever wanted to know and even a
>  description of someone else who  tried the dozen washer shim approach 
and  
> even
> lengthened the push rod.
>
>  
_http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hyd
>  raulics.htm_
>  
(http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/ClutchHydraulics/Clutch_Hydraulics.htm)
>
>  Sloane  :)
> 69-Six
>
>
>> From:  Vsnively at aol.com
>> Date:  Thu, 30 Sep 2010 21:36:12  -0400
>> To: v.navarrette at comcast.net;   6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch slave  pushrod
>>
>> Thanks Vance
>>
>>
>  =
> _______________________________________________
>
>  6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>  Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>  http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Fri Oct  1 10:13:30 2010
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Fri, 01 Oct 2010 12:13:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
In-Reply-To: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>
References: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4CA608AA.2000207@snet.net>

  Other British cars, my MGs especially, have always called for 20w50 
motor oil in the transmissions, and sometimes 30w is specified as well, 
particular for MGAs.  I have spoken with various specialists who 
recommend Redline transmission/gear oils, some who say to stay away from 
synthetics, some who say to use synthetics, and I read at least one 
article describing the shear qualities of engine oil and the typical 
80/90 gear oils with the conclusion that the ratings, one intended for 
engines and the other for gearboxes, actually have the same lubricating 
qualities.

Good luck on finding the definitive answer.

My TR6 has whatever the last owner put into it.  Smells suspiciously 
like gear oil, and the transmission has been one piece of the car that 
hasn't given me a problem.

I race my MGA and have gone through all those combinations mentioned 
above.  I now use 20w50 and everything seems fine.

On 9/30/2010 5:38 PM, Douglas Morris wrote:
> What is the recommended oil for the gearcase/OD?
> My manual says 80/90 hypoid gear oil,
> but an old Britcar mechanic says 30W.
> This puzzles me.
> Any comments?
>
> Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>


-- 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf]

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Fri Oct  1 13:33:23 2010
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 12:33:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
Message-ID: <477043.15162.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I have a copy of an old Standard Motor Company service manual (pre J type) for
Laycock de Normanville overdrives.   It specifies 30 wt non-detergent oil.  
It 
specifically says not to use extreme presuure gear oils as the
"centrifugal 
effect of the planets may separate some of the additives of the
oil and cause 
sludging."

That is definitive advice.

However, In my 6 I have
Redline MT90 in my A type and I get compliments on how 
well it works.  I'm
not switching.

Bruce Simms

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Fri Oct  1 16:54:45 2010
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 18:54:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Simple Question
Message-ID: <AANLkTindBq3Asha2qYJPCC2bBHMHsFSE-Vj1Dp7G7ye-@mail.gmail.com>

What is the timing for a '75 with the vacuum plugged idling at approx 850
rpm. How on earth can it be 4 degrees per the specs? It seems to run best at
about 18 degrees before TDC. I know it's been asked a thousand times before,
but I hope someone will humor me and just tell me...
Many thanks
Bob

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Fri Oct  1 17:37:19 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 16:37:19 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Simple Question
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTindBq3Asha2qYJPCC2bBHMHsFSE-Vj1Dp7G7ye-@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7C6D18DDFDFF483DAF2108A7F54E0808@HOMEBREW1>

	Bob:

	Because with the vacuum plugged, the timing should be set to 10
BTDC *not* 4 ATDC.

	With the vacuum *connected* the timing is 4 ATDC.

	The confusion arises because people assume that the TR6 uses a
vacuum advance, when in fact it uses a vacuum RETARD system. So with the
vacuum connected the timing is RETARDED by 14 degrees to 4 ATDC, not
advanced as most people assume.

	Another issue is that on most people's cars the vacuum capsule
has long since failed, so even if they get it right and set the timing
to 4 ATDC with the vacuum connected, the car runs like home made dog
food. This is why I tell everyone to DISCONNECT the vacuum, and set the
timing to 10 BTDC, so that even if the vacuum capsule is inoperative,
the timing will be correct.

	I say this from personal experience. To use the 4 ATDC number, I
had to replace my vacuum capsule, then the timing works as it should.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of robert fabie
Sent: Friday, October 01, 2010 3:55 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Simple Question


What is the timing for a '75 with the vacuum plugged idling at approx
850
rpm. How on earth can it be 4 degrees per the specs? It seems to run
best at
about 18 degrees before TDC. I know it's been asked a thousand times
before,
but I hope someone will humor me and just tell me...
Many thanks
Bob

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Oct  2 00:08:03 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 00:08:03 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
In-Reply-To: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>
References: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8D95599E-C1BB-4D93-AB48-3ED1AA9B6035@comcast.net>

Someone on the list long ago recommended Valvoline VR1 50 wt racing  
oil for the A-type OD transmission so I switched to it and its worked  
just fine for 12 years or so.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Sep 30, 2010, at 3:38 PM, Douglas Morris wrote:

> What is the recommended oil for the gearcase/OD?
> My manual says 80/90 hypoid gear oil,
> but an old Britcar mechanic says 30W.
> This puzzles me.
> Any comments?
>
> Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Oct  2 05:34:21 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 07:34:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <D9A300D5CCAD445FAA2485C739B664E8@Robert>

I know this subject was quite a while back, but whilst cleaning my shop this
morning (can't sleep) I came across the one that Bob Lang recommended. 
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1738/Facet_Fuel_Pumps

Give me $10 for shipping Fed Ex and an address to send it to. Yes it does
work. First serious reply gets it. Contact off line.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Oct  2 05:35:30 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 07:35:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
References: <578DDAD1-3747-4557-9335-EBEF6C335D34@nc.rr.com>
	<8D95599E-C1BB-4D93-AB48-3ED1AA9B6035@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <F97DF6446E9A4F83A584613A043094E1@Alan>

Good to hear.
I recently put it in a J type  O/D. but I hadn't heard much of anyone using 
it.
I really haven't driven the car since the change.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bud Rolofson" <levilevi at comcast.net>
To: "Douglas Morris" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2010 2:08 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil


> Someone on the list long ago recommended Valvoline VR1 50 wt racing  oil 
> for the A-type OD transmission so I switched to it and its worked  just 
> fine for 12 years or so.
>
> Bud Rolofson
>
> 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
> 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
> 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
> 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
> Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
> levilevi at comcast.net
>
>
>
>
> On Sep 30, 2010, at 3:38 PM, Douglas Morris wrote:
>
>> What is the recommended oil for the gearcase/OD?
>> My manual says 80/90 hypoid gear oil,
>> but an old Britcar mechanic says 30W.
>> This puzzles me.
>> Any comments?
>>
>> Doug Morris, NC '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct  2 06:31:10 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 08:31:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <D9A300D5CCAD445FAA2485C739B664E8@Robert>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com>
	<D9A300D5CCAD445FAA2485C739B664E8@Robert>
Message-ID: <201010020831.12726.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, October 02, 2010 07:34:21 am Robert Liam Gannon wrote:
> I know this subject was quite a while back, but whilst cleaning my shop
> this morning (can't sleep) I came across the one that Bob Lang
> recommended.
> http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1738/Facet_Fuel_Pumps
> 
> Give me $10 for shipping Fed Ex and an address to send it to. Yes it does
> work. First serious reply gets it. Contact off line.
Bob,

If I am the first, I will take it. Give me your address and I will forward you 
the 10.

Thanks,

Bob

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Oct  2 06:37:12 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 08:37:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimyo4sw1-Y7ay-ZYk4TZQLgCismhjFZk+fwVduN@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com><D9A300D5CCAD445FAA2485C739B664E8@Robert>
	<AANLkTimyo4sw1-Y7ay-ZYk4TZQLgCismhjFZk+fwVduN@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <6088B359292D4D83ABC6D1F57732BF45@Robert>

Irv Korey is the winner!

 

  _____  

From: emanteno at gmail.com [mailto:emanteno at gmail.com] On Behalf Of Irv Korey
Sent: Saturday, October 02, 2010 7:55 AM
To: Robert Liam Gannon
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil

 

I'd like it if someone hasn't beaten me to it. It would be a spare for the
one I have in the car.

Irv Korey

On Sat, Oct 2, 2010 at 6:34 AM, Robert Liam Gannon <trsix74 at comcast.net>
wrote:

I know this subject was quite a while back, but whilst cleaning my shop this
morning (can't sleep) I came across the one that Bob Lang recommended.
http://www.racerpartswholesale.com/product/1738/Facet_Fuel_Pumps

Give me $10 for shipping Fed Ex and an address to send it to. Yes it does
work. First serious reply gets it. Contact off line.
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/emanteno at gmail.com

From rjcapo1 at yahoo.com  Sat Oct  2 06:40:18 2010
From: rjcapo1 at yahoo.com (Ralph Cap)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 05:40:18 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale
Message-ID: <10858.72897.qm@web120117.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

i have a 76 tr6 for sale good frame no rust in panels many up grades no garage space for winter 3500 firm ny area of rockland co worth about 7500 needs a paint job and a new top my loss is your gain have pics if anyone is interested

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat Oct  2 10:07:38 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 12:07:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] VTR  Brew Swap Reminder
Message-ID: <BAY123-W30ADB42E56F911DE0ECBFBA6A0@phx.gbl>

VTR 2010
BREW SWAP 2

A second gathering of suds lovers will take place at this
years national convention at Jekyll Island.
It will be an informal gathering of friends to share your favorite home
brew or that special microbrew that you like so well.  The Brew Swap will take
place on Monday
October 18th  in the
Hospitality Suite at the host hotel. It will be a prelude to the welcome
reception, from 4:30 to 6:30 ish.  We
will provide the room, tables and some glasses. Bring a six pack of your
favorite cold special beverage and possibly some snacks that would go good
with
beer. Game plan is to mingle and sample others favorite beers. This will give
us an opportunity to sample some home brews made by fellow Triumph enthusiast
and possibly some micro brews from different parts of the country that you
normally would not get to try.  We did a
brew swap 1 at the 2008 convention and all had a blast. This years brew swap
will include a home brew competition so all you hops cookers out there get
you
best recipe fermenting and see how you do against your fellow brewers.



Cheers,

Marty Sukey

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Sat Oct  2 12:40:15 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (slowtoaccept at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Oct 2010 11:40:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
In-Reply-To: <mailman.7.1286042403.28533.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <601260.43614.qm@web55005.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

John Espisito of Quantum Mechanics says to use 30 wt non-detergent for my
J-type Laycock OD tranny so it will not froth and foam and that heavier gear
oils cause problems. I don't know what he recommends for non-OD trannys. Maybe
he says on his website. http://www.quantumechanics.com/
 
Jerry Shaw
'74 TR6 Mallard Green - Recently restored and a delight to finally drive.
 


Message: 1
Date: Fri, 1 Oct 2010 12:33:23 -0700 (PDT)
From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <477043.15162.qm at web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

I have a copy of an old Standard Motor Company service manual (pre J type)
for
Laycock de Normanville overdrives.   It specifies 30 wt non-detergent oil. 
It
specifically says not to use extreme presuure gear oils as the
"centrifugal
effect of the planets may separate some of the additives of the
oil and cause
sludging."

That is definitive advice.

However, In my 6 I have
Redline MT90 in my A type and I get compliments on how
well it works.  I'm
not switching.

Bruce Simms

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Sat Oct  2 14:08:09 2010
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2010 16:08:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
In-Reply-To: <477043.15162.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <477043.15162.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <6940969057bf0.4ca758e9@wright.edu>

All
Have more info that supports our use of 80/90 wt oil in the transmission/OD units.  Have a factory repair and operations manual.  Published by, " Triumph Motor Company Ltd, Coventry England" part # 545277, published 1972.

With respect to transmission and OD lubrication it says...
Gearbox and overdrive over 30 deg F - BP Gear oil  SAE 90 EP
                                  below 30 "     "  - BP Gear oil  SAE 80 EP 
Both are API GL4  

As I remember there is a communication port (hole) between the trans and OD units (at least on the 'A' type units). Different weight oils in the respective units will mix with time and become whatever they mix to.  Transmissions are the same from TR2 through TR3A's. 3B through 4's had 1st gear synchronized and possibly caged needle bearing rather than free floating ones in the counter shaft, lot of broom handles were saved there by not needing them for bearing support on reassembly, and different shift lever on the TR4's. Strongly suspect TR6 trans is the same as Late TR4 boxes but have never had one apart (mine hasn't broken yet).  

This is sort of a FWIW thing. People can use whatever they are comfortable with. I'm with Bruce using 80/90 wt.    Times and lubricants have changed, may be a 'hotter set up' out there, but this is what the book of the time said. 
Bill
'70   6 



----- Original Message -----
From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
Date: Friday, October 1, 2010 3:33 pm
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
To: 6pack at autox.team.net

> I have a copy of an old Standard Motor Company service manual 
> (pre J type) for
> Laycock de Normanville overdrives.   It specifies 30 
> wt non-detergent oil.  
> It 
> specifically says not to use extreme presuure gear oils as the
> "centrifugal 
> effect of the planets may separate some of the additives of the
> oil and cause 
> sludging."
> 
> That is definitive advice.
> 
> However, In my 6 I have
> Redline MT90 in my A type and I get compliments on how 
> well it works.  I'm
> not switching.
> 
> Bruce Simms

From mark at bradakis.com  Sat Oct  2 16:40:33 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sat, 02 Oct 2010 16:40:33 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Proper gearcase oil
In-Reply-To: <601260.43614.qm@web55005.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
References: <601260.43614.qm@web55005.mail.re4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4CA7B4E1.3040702@bradakis.com>

Keep in mind that the numbers for gear oil and motor oil
come from different viscosity charts.  A 90 weight gear
oil is about the same viscosity as a 40 weight engine oil.

mjb.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Oct  3 09:23:15 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 11:23:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem
Message-ID: <201010031123.16092.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

For all you that are members of www.6-pack.org.

I cannot reach the web site. I did several lookups but not one of the hostname 
lookups can locate www.6-pack.org. Tried numerous DNS servers.

But I did get a hit on the web registry. Host name is registered and paid up 
until 2011. But all the dns servers I tried could not find it. Anyone else 
having the same problem or is it related to my web provider?

Thanks,

Bob

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Oct  3 12:27:05 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2010 11:27:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem
References: <201010031123.16092.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <000401cb6328$94dd8be0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

I just git it, actual time East coast 11:26 am.
(Another) Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2010 8:23 AM
Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem


> For all you that are members of www.6-pack.org.
>
> I cannot reach the web site. I did several lookups but not one of the
hostname
> lookups can locate www.6-pack.org. Tried numerous DNS servers.
>
> But I did get a hit on the web registry. Host name is registered and paid
up
> until 2011. But all the dns servers I tried could not find it. Anyone else
> having the same problem or is it related to my web provider?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sun Oct  3 09:43:33 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 15:43:33 +0000
Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem
Message-ID: <816738833-1286120495-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1285336084-@bda112.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Had the same problem, think its down this morning.  Maybe Alan will see this. 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Bob
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem
Sent: Oct 3, 2010 10:23 AM

For all you that are members of www.6-pack.org.

I cannot reach the web site. I did several lookups but not one of the hostname 
lookups can locate www.6-pack.org. Tried numerous DNS servers.

But I did get a hit on the web registry. Host name is registered and paid up 
until 2011. But all the dns servers I tried could not find it. Anyone else 
having the same problem or is it related to my web provider?

Thanks,

Bob
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Oct  3 13:00:50 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 03 Oct 2010 12:00:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem
References: <816738833-1286120495-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1285336084-@bda112.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <000f01cb632d$4bab5970$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Sorry about previous typo I am able to get into www.6-pack.org from NY area
@ 12 noon.
Site is not down.
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lfm614 at aol.com>
To: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net>; "TR-6
list" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 03, 2010 8:43 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem


> Had the same problem, think its down this morning.  Maybe Alan will see
this.
>
> Lou
> ------Original Message------
> From: Bob
> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
> To: TR-6 list
> Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem
> Sent: Oct 3, 2010 10:23 AM
>
> For all you that are members of www.6-pack.org.
>
> I cannot reach the web site. I did several lookups but not one of the
hostname
> lookups can locate www.6-pack.org. Tried numerous DNS servers.
>
> But I did get a hit on the web registry. Host name is registered and paid
up
> until 2011. But all the dns servers I tried could not find it. Anyone else
> having the same problem or is it related to my web provider?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Oct  3 10:19:32 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 12:19:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6 pack forum problem
In-Reply-To: <201010031123.16092.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201010031123.16092.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <201010031219.33218.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Just got back in the house and 6-pack is back up. Some listeners could get 
there some not. Must have been a SNAFU somewhere around 11:00 or so.

Thanks for replies.

Bob

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Sun Oct  3 12:02:25 2010
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Sun, 3 Oct 2010 11:02:25 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Cars for sale
Message-ID: <786BD2BF135940D19219207701B284CA@office>

As our membership ages, dies off, or loses interest these cars have just come
up for sale:

1969 MG-C w/o/d--fully restored
1967 TR-4A--- w/od--original, vgc
1959 TR-3, body off restoration, recent VTR award winner
1953 MG-TD MK 11, fully restored
1954 XK-120, original,

For further information and e-mail addresses or phone numbers to the owners
contact wcwellbaum at cox.net or cell 702-506-2430, Las Vegas.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Oct  4 07:26:27 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 09:26:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Number
Message-ID: <D99520F44DC74FC581D1D67D100369F9@BobPC>

Can anyone clear up an engine number question for us over in 6-Pack. One of 
the guys with a '73 has an engine number stamped CD120UE yet according to 
Moss & TRF there are no 250's or 6's with an engine number beginning with 
CD. You can see a picture of the stamping at this URL 
http://tinyurl.com/36c9kjc

Were warranty replacement engines stamped this way? Any help would be 
appreciated.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Oct  4 10:45:20 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2010 09:45:20 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Number
References: <D99520F44DC74FC581D1D67D100369F9@BobPC>
Message-ID: <000401cb63e3$89446cc0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

So from that reference listing what does CC....E  mean under engine column?
Could be C thru E were used?
Bob P.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 6:26 AM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Number


> Can anyone clear up an engine number question for us over in 6-Pack. One
of
> the guys with a '73 has an engine number stamped CD120UE yet according to
> Moss & TRF there are no 250's or 6's with an engine number beginning with
> CD. You can see a picture of the stamping at this URL
> http://tinyurl.com/36c9kjc
>
> Were warranty replacement engines stamped this way? Any help would be
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Oct  4 08:04:50 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 10:04:50 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Bob Goes for a Sunday Drive part VIII
In-Reply-To: <189873.40970.qm@smtp108.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <189873.40970.qm@smtp108.rog.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1010041002240.10446@isis.mit.edu>

On Sun, 3 Oct 2010, macdonaldp wrote:

> Looks pretty smooth, what rpms are you maxing out at?

on that run I hit 6000 a couple of times. If I didn't shift to third at 
the end of the run, I would have been in the 6500 range which is higher 
than I like to run the motor.

You can actually see the tach needle moving, 6k is just to the right of 
straight up.

> Paul

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Oct  4 09:00:46 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 11:00:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - was Gas in Oil
In-Reply-To: <6088B359292D4D83ABC6D1F57732BF45@Robert>
References: <AANLkTinuhEqGaxiY=TbaGaYnrWKoCeGvh1ZXwHKCVDt4@mail.gmail.com><D9A300D5CCAD445FAA2485C739B664E8@Robert>
	<AANLkTimyo4sw1-Y7ay-ZYk4TZQLgCismhjFZk+fwVduN@mail.gmail.com>
	<6088B359292D4D83ABC6D1F57732BF45@Robert>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1010041100150.10446@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 2 Oct 2010, Robert Liam Gannon wrote:

> Irv Korey is the winner!

Age and treachery wins again.

I love it!

Hi Irv!!!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Oct  4 09:30:01 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 11:30:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W23C9782EFD6ABF4D4322518E690@phx.gbl>
References: <e257.20f027e6.39d6950c@aol.com>
	<BLU120-W23C9782EFD6ABF4D4322518E690@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1010041119220.10446@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I just wanted to throw something in to this discussion...

I just "fixed" my street car "clutch engages .005" from the floor" issue.

It turns out that the clutch pressure plate fingers were about 1/4" 
"lower" than any of the other pressure plates I have hanging around, 
measured by placing the PP face down and measuring the height to the 
highest point on the fingers where the relase bearing contacts.

This was a very odd finding as the PP was an LUK and was one of the first 
Laycock replacement PP's offered by a mail rder vendor about 20 years ago. 
At any rate, that clutch was installed about 8 years ago and always caught 
fairly close to the floor, but the car became undrivable this summer after 
only about 25 k miles on the clutch.

The replacement is a B&B that came out of the race car when I installed a 
C/R gearset, so it has low hours on it, albiet somewhat "hard miles"

At any rate, if your clutch catches low to the floor and you've eliminated 
all the variables (linkage slop, poor hydraulics and the dreaded broken 
clutch fork pin), measure the height of your pressure plate fingers... 
you're probably in for a surprise. I'll try to post comparitive clutch 
finger heights when I have some time to measure - by coincidence, I have 8 
clutch PP's on the shelf in my shop.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Oct  4 10:16:07 2010
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2010 12:16:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Engine Number
In-Reply-To: <D99520F44DC74FC581D1D67D100369F9@BobPC>
References: <D99520F44DC74FC581D1D67D100369F9@BobPC>
Message-ID: <4CA9FDC7.9070308@maine.rr.com>

  Bob;

Looks like TR250's had CD commission numbers as well as TR6
gearboxes and differentials.

http://www.club.triumph.org.uk/prefix1.htm

Don't see any listing for CD-coded engines.....

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six w/TBI+A-type OD


On 10/4/2010 9:26 AM, Bob Danielson wrote:
> Can anyone clear up an engine number question for us over in 6-Pack. 
> One of the guys with a '73 has an engine number stamped CD120UE yet 
> according to Moss & TRF there are no 250's or 6's with an engine 
> number beginning with CD. You can see a picture of the stamping at 
> this URL http://tinyurl.com/36c9kjc
>
> Were warranty replacement engines stamped this way? Any help would be 
> appreciated.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> _______________________________________________
>
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>
>
>
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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Oct  4 13:13:39 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 04 Oct 2010 19:13:39 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
Message-ID: <COL123-DS2492B4E960BF73EB163A96F46C0@phx.gbl>

Bob---When you do the the measuring, bolt the pressure plate to a flywheel, and include a clutch disk inbetween them. The thickness of the disk bears on where the finger height comes up to. (The thinner the disk, the higher the fingers). 

Dick

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Oct  4 16:08:53 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 18:08:53 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch slave pushrod
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS2492B4E960BF73EB163A96F46C0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS2492B4E960BF73EB163A96F46C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1010041807020.10446@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 4 Oct 2010, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Bob---When you do the the measuring, bolt the pressure plate to a 
> flywheel, and include a clutch disk inbetween them. The thickness of the 
> disk bears on where the finger height comes up to. (The thinner the 
> disk, the higher the fingers).

When I have some spare time, I'll do a couple of them for reference.

I have a STACK of PP's and clutch disks.

But this particular PP was def. out of spec. I installed the  different PP 
and the clutch disk that had been in the the car and the setup works 
perfectly now. It's better than new!!!

> Dick

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Mon Oct  4 16:25:17 2010
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 18:25:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Timing Replies - thank you
Message-ID: <AANLkTik0QqJTfji__t5B3U_5fBmwVD1yqAo=DX3xgKUM@mail.gmail.com>

Friends,
Thanks to all who responded to my question about the correct timing. Your
collective wisdom is much appreciated. What worked very well for me was to
set the idle at 850 and set the timing to 12 degrees before TDC. With my
vacuum permanently blocked, the car runs exceptionally well. That whole
retard/advance discussion just evaded me for a while. Thanks again.
Bob

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Mon Oct  4 17:28:06 2010
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 16:28:06 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Timing Replies - thank you
References: <AANLkTik0QqJTfji__t5B3U_5fBmwVD1yqAo=DX3xgKUM@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <DFC324FFC8E948C39EB50F729F4964CB@office>

I've discovered that at 12 Degrees BTDC my '75 runs as well with the vacuum 
advance disconnected as it does connected.  We're not talking about high 
speed work, here, just normal driving around town.  How could this be?

Bill Wellbaum
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert fabie" <bobfabie at gmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 3:25 PM
Subject: [6pack] Timing Replies - thank you


> Friends,
> Thanks to all who responded to my question about the correct timing. Your
> collective wisdom is much appreciated. What worked very well for me was to
> set the idle at 850 and set the timing to 12 degrees before TDC. With my
> vacuum permanently blocked, the car runs exceptionally well. That whole
> retard/advance discussion just evaded me for a while. Thanks again.
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Mon Oct  4 17:51:17 2010
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 18:51:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Timing Replies - thank you
In-Reply-To: <DFC324FFC8E948C39EB50F729F4964CB@office>
References: <AANLkTik0QqJTfji__t5B3U_5fBmwVD1yqAo=DX3xgKUM@mail.gmail.com>
	<DFC324FFC8E948C39EB50F729F4964CB@office>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimdjWLJSsnBdpRBYC_Gg+_uPgnvCTsd3pxKDD3d@mail.gmail.com>

Unless you changed to a distributor with vacuum advance, you shouldn't
have it on a '75. If you only have the one vacuum module, and it is on
the rearward side (closest to the firewall) then you have a vacuum
retard unit. Advance would all be by centrifugal means. The retard
module could also be worn out and not providing any retard. Not a
totally detrimental loss.

Shawn

On Mon, Oct 4, 2010 at 6:28 PM, Bill Wellbaum <wcwellbaum at cox.net> wrote:
> I've discovered that at 12 Degrees BTDC my '75 runs as well with the vacuum
> advance disconnected as it does connected.  We're not talking about high
> speed work, here, just normal driving around town.  How could this be?
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "robert fabie" <bobfabie at gmail.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 3:25 PM
> Subject: [6pack] Timing Replies - thank you
>
>
>> Friends,
>> Thanks to all who responded to my question about the correct timing. Your
>> collective wisdom is much appreciated. What worked very well for me was to
>> set the idle at 850 and set the timing to 12 degrees before TDC. With my
>> vacuum permanently blocked, the car runs exceptionally well. That whole
>> retard/advance discussion just evaded me for a while. Thanks again.
>> Bob
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shawn.loseke at gmail.com

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Mon Oct  4 18:07:58 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 17:07:58 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Timing Replies - thank you
In-Reply-To: <DFC324FFC8E948C39EB50F729F4964CB@office>
Message-ID: <A828686B7056414A838B72324914B4A5@HOMEBREW1>

	Bill:

	It runs equally well in either case because your vacuum
"advance" is actually a vacuum retard not an advance, and because the
minute you step on the accelerator the vacuum retard disconnects itself
if it is operating correctly.

	However, I suspect that in your case the vacuum retard is
inoperative as age causes the vacuum capsules to fail. So I am betting
that you are operating with no vacuum control on your ignition timing -
hence the result that it seemingly makes no difference.

	To see if your retard is inoperative, start the car and allow it
to warm fully. With the engine idling at about 850 RPM, pull the vacuum
line off the vacuum capsule. The idle should immediately increase by
about 400-500 RPM. If it does not, your vacuum capsule bit the dust and
you are operating without vacuum retard.

	Should you confirm this and decide to replace your vacuum
capsule, be aware that the vacuum capsule for the later cars is NLA. All
is not lost however, simply purchase the vacuum capsule for the earlier
cars, and use a hacksaw to cut off the threaded adjustment rod. It will
then be a drop in replacement for the original vacuum capsule.

	Vance
	

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum
Sent: Monday, October 04, 2010 4:28 PM
To: robert fabie; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Timing Replies - thank you


I've discovered that at 12 Degrees BTDC my '75 runs as well with the
vacuum 
advance disconnected as it does connected.  We're not talking about high

speed work, here, just normal driving around town.  How could this be?

Bill Wellbaum

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  4 18:53:15 2010
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 4 Oct 2010 20:53:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Looking for color photos
Message-ID: <BAY143-W165EF78AB3A7C5C3CF1876C66D0@phx.gbl>

We're almost ready to order paint for the 250 project.
Paint, as we all know ain't cheap.
It also doesn't always cross between manufacturers perfectly.

With that in mind, if you have any pictures of Wedgewood 4s or 250s I'd love
to have a copy of them.
I already did the google thing, pulled the ones off the 6-pack site and have
some of my own, so I'm looking for pictures you (all) may have taken.
If you can help me out, I'd be most grateful.
Copies are probably best sent to webmaster at 6-pack.org

Thanks in advance, Alan

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  5 15:36:14 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Tue, 5 Oct 2010 17:36:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Looking for color photos
Message-ID: <39BD14E0B8C04A8AAC5CD6AF37173329@JaneShawPC>

Most auto paint retail outlets will prepare an aerosol can mixed to your auto
manufacturers paint code from a paint company of your choice.  This in either
single stage or base-clear.  Prepare a piece of cardboard with a couple coats
of dark primer, then spray several coats from your aerosol can, then add a
clear coat if appropriate.  It'll set you back about $25 per trial. The large
size of the result will give you a better idea of the true color. Much better
than a little swatch or a computer sample.
Jerry Shaw
'74 TR6 Mallard Green (Paint code 106)

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Oct  6 00:18:24 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 06 Oct 2010 06:18:24 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Triumphest 2010
Message-ID: <COL123-DS23B9F6516AF3D176B40732F46E0@phx.gbl>

Hope to see some of you this weekend at this year's Triumphest, in Del Mar,
Ca.  (Too bad it's so close to the event at Jekyl).

Dick Taylor
'73TR6
Def. Red

From apackard68 at att.net  Wed Oct  6 10:11:59 2010
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Wed, 6 Oct 2010 09:11:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Triumphest 2010
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS23B9F6516AF3D176B40732F46E0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS23B9F6516AF3D176B40732F46E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <886608A3-3C23-48DF-8A55-91F0F5C81FB0@att.net>

There are several of us traveling down from the Bay Area.  See you  
down there, Dick.
Andy


On Oct 5, 2010, at 11:18 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Hope to see some of you this weekend at this year's Triumphest, in  
> Del Mar,
> Ca.  (Too bad it's so close to the event at Jekyl).
>
> Dick Taylor
> '73TR6
> Def. Red
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/apackard68 at att.net

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Thu Oct  7 10:22:38 2010
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 10:22:38 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Petronix Ignition
In-Reply-To: <420E7CFE700D4445BE96D45ACA0FE399@FoxconnPC>
References: <4C98C6D2.5020803@snet.net>
	<420E7CFE700D4445BE96D45ACA0FE399@FoxconnPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimb2=EExDwhQEUbKctJpWNJGazM7vs4PTA36SHe@mail.gmail.com>

Hugh,

No, there is no additional 'control box'.
The two wires from the distributor connect to the appropriate
ternimals on the coil, Red on + Black on -.

Henri

On Sun, Sep 26, 2010 at 9:25 PM, Hugh R McAleer <hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net>
wrote:
> Hello Sixers!
>
> I just picked up a '72 TR6 motor and it has a Petronix point replacement
set
> up in the distributor.  It has two wires ( 1 red, 1 black ) coming out of
> it.  It also has a Bosch blue coil.
>
> Is it supposed to have a control box of some sort?
>
> Thanks in advance.
> Hugh
> Zebulon, GA _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com
>
>



--
Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct  7 11:28:05 2010
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Thu, 7 Oct 2010 10:28:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Back in the Saddle again
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimb2=EExDwhQEUbKctJpWNJGazM7vs4PTA36SHe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <470824.74680.qm@web54106.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hey 6-pack,

I'm finally back after being off the list due to a layoff and such.  I'm hoping to get back to work on my TR soon, but I had a question I thought someone might have the answer to.  

I'm seriously considering converting my 6-cyl to FI w/Megasquirt and EDIS ignition. Has anyone here 'been there, done that'?  What advice, warnings, technical info could you pass along?

TIA & glad to be back,

Raymond L. Hatfield

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Oct 11 16:09:52 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 17:09:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] hub remove and replace
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS9557D9F8DC4AA2871E594F47D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS9557D9F8DC4AA2871E594F47D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <317CE195F7E24FB3ACFEE7258E4E68E7@ranteer.local>

?hi, all.

it seems that the right rear hub is bad on my 72 tr6.  you can rock it back 
and forth quite a bit, and theres a definitive vibration on the right side 
above 35 mph.

ideally I'd replace the whole rear end with nissan and goodparts, but right 
now I'm busy paying college tuition.

I have a friend who has two tr6 parts cars.  assuming there's a good hub 
there, here are my questions:

1.  are left and right interchangeable?
2. for a shadetree mechanic with the usual craftsman tool box, can I remove 
and replace them?
3. the rear brakes are slightly modified - I've got the Morgan brake 
calipers - how does that affect things?

thanks in advance! 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Oct 11 16:35:43 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 22:35:43 GMT
Subject: [6pack] hub remove and replace
Message-ID: <COL123-DS111A1D2921B3AA375D1284F4530@phx.gbl>

Dave---I'd say the answers to your three questions are: Yes, probably yes, and probably not at all.

The L & R hubs and axles are interchangeable. Best to use the male/ female splined parts as a pair, altho they'll go together when a part of different pairs.

This is not a particularly difficult job, and basic tools should be fine. You may want to look at the two u-joints on the axle in question, to be sure this is not part of your vibration. (There should be no lost motion in the yokes).

If alll you've changed is to the Morgan brake cylinders, it shouldn't affect the job ahead.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: dave
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 3:09 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] hub remove and replace

?hi, all.

it seems that the right rear hub is bad on my 72 tr6.  you can rock it back 
and forth quite a bit, and theres a definitive vibration on the right side 
above 35 mph.

ideally I'd replace the whole rear end with nissan and goodparts, but right 
now I'm busy paying college tuition.

I have a friend who has two tr6 parts cars.  assuming there's a good hub 
there, here are my questions:

1.  are left and right interchangeable?
2. for a shadetree mechanic with the usual craftsman tool box, can I remove 
and replace them?
3. the rear brakes are slightly modified - I've got the Morgan brake 
calipers - how does that affect things?

thanks in advance! 
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Mon Oct 11 17:24:41 2010
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 07:24:41 +0800
Subject: [6pack] hub remove and replace
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS111A1D2921B3AA375D1284F4530@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS111A1D2921B3AA375D1284F4530@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimH5pof6vEUBTChAT384+mf4BTZw75fS6nrB-EV@mail.gmail.com>

Dave,
In addition to what Dick said, you may wish to be prepared to repair any
stripped threads in the aluminum trailing arm. It's not unusual for the
threads to deteriorate from corrosion between the steel fasteners and the
aluminum (aluminium, ahem) arm. Any good auto supply place should be able to
set you up with Keenserts or the equivalent. That's not a hard job, either,
if you can drill a straight hole.
-- Phil Barnes
-- '71 TR6 since 1977

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Oct 11 18:47:17 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 11 Oct 2010 20:47:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] hub remove and replace
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimH5pof6vEUBTChAT384+mf4BTZw75fS6nrB-EV@mail.gmail.com>
References: <COL123-DS111A1D2921B3AA375D1284F4530@phx.gbl>
	<AANLkTimH5pof6vEUBTChAT384+mf4BTZw75fS6nrB-EV@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8EC712A033894B11B418DD588ADD1480@BobPC>

Phil raises a good point and this is the time to install inserts in the TA. 
The easiest way to do it is with Rick Patton's TA Repair Kit 
(http://www.pattonmachine.com/TA-Repair-Jig.htm)  This jig makes repairing 
all 12 holes so easy and you'll get perfect alignment every time. A lot of 
the guys in 6-Pack have bought this kit and swear by its simplicity and 
accuracy.  A lot of clubs have also bought it and have it available to their 
members.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Philip Barnes" <pebarnes71 at gmail.com>
Sent: Monday, October 11, 2010 7:24 PM
To: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] hub remove and replace

> Dave,
> In addition to what Dick said, you may wish to be prepared to repair any
> stripped threads in the aluminum trailing arm. It's not unusual for the
> threads to deteriorate from corrosion between the steel fasteners and the
> aluminum (aluminium, ahem) arm. Any good auto supply place should be able 
> to
> set you up with Keenserts or the equivalent. That's not a hard job, 
> either,
> if you can drill a straight hole.
> -- Phil Barnes
> -- '71 TR6 since 1977
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Oct 12 07:10:55 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 09:10:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fw: [TR] TR-3/4/5/6 Aluminum hubs Commercial message
Message-ID: <93F8B7C46ED443BF93F92CC87B2E7AD4@BobPC>

I don't think Tony posts to 6-Pack so I'm forwarding his email (shown below) 
to this group. Contact Tony and not me ;-)

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
Sent: Tuesday, October 12, 2010 12:53 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR-3/4/5/6 Aluminum hubs Commercial message

> uncle jack's racing Aluminum front hubs are going back into production for 
> a limited quantity run.
>
> These are a revised design that I've been testing on my TR-4 race car all 
> season.  We are using a different set of inner bearings than the prior 
> aluminum hubs used, but they have the same high load rating and are about 
> half of the cost.  These hubs eliminate a significant weakness in the 
> stock hubs between the inner and outer flange.  They incorporate very high 
> load rating, larger than stock Timken bearings which eliminates the 
> bearing failure issues that are present with stock bearings when using 
> sticky tires.  I have been running set with bearings of this load rating 
> from 2003 through 2009 (before running the prototypes this year) and can 
> detect no wear in the bearings.  I drive them HARD, and am not afraid to 
> use the curbs.
>
> I'm taking pre-orders at this time - no deposits yet.  But, please don't 
> pre-order a set if you don't really intend to buy them.  This is a very 
> significant investment for me, and I need to gauge the level of interest.
>
> Here's how the pricing shakes out (US dollars):
> A) Bare hubs: $175.00 each / $350.00 per pair
> B) Hubs with Timken races and ARP studs installed: $280.00 each / $560.00 
> per pair
> C) Hubs with all bearings, seals, dust caps and ARP studs installed: 
> $370.00 each / $740.00 per pair
>
> For folks who order these hubs, if you already have the heavy duty axle 
> kit, I'll supply a pair of bearing spacers that will work with these hubs 
> for $40 per pair.
>
> If you don't already have a set of the Heavy Duty front axles, I'll supply 
> the axle kit along with the hubs for $150 per pair.  These are the lowest 
> prices for the axle kits that have been offered.
>
> Shipping is a flat $20 in the continental US, $35 to Canada, and other 
> international shipping is probably $50 - at least to Germany or to 
> Australia.
>
> The hubs are designed to accept ARP 1/2" x 3" studs, but ARP 7/16" x 3.2" 
> studs can be specified.  7/16" is the stock diameter.
>
> If you're interested, please send an e-mail to tony at tonydrews.com with the 
> following info:
> *  Which set you're interested in (A, B or C)
> *  How many hubs are desired (2 would be assumed)
> *  Stud diameter desired
> *  Are spacers needed?
>
> Thanks for your interest,
> Tony Drews
> tony at tonydrews.com
> uncle jack's racing

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 12 14:07:07 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 13:07:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Hub removal and replacement
Message-ID: <235182.24001.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Dave,

When replacing the hubs don't forget that the torque for those hub nuts
is very 
low-see the book for torque specs.  This comes from someone who
didn't check way 
back when and lived to regret it.

Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Oct 12 14:36:37 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 12 Oct 2010 16:36:37 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Hub removal and replacement
In-Reply-To: <235182.24001.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <235182.24001.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1010121635010.6519@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 12 Oct 2010, michael lunsford wrote:

> Dave,
>
> When replacing the hubs don't forget that the torque for those hub nuts
> is very
> low-see the book for torque specs.  This comes from someone who
> didn't check way
> back when and lived to regret it.

it's 10-12 ft/lb

use a 3/8" drive torque wrench. Most of the 1/2" drive wrenches don't 
have a scale that works in the proper range.

get this wrong and the studs pull out.

:-(


> Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From otral at juno.com  Wed Oct 13 16:37:42 2010
From: otral at juno.com (otral at juno.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 22:37:42 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Pull the engine?
Message-ID: <20101013.183742.10867.0@webmail21.dca.untd.com>

I just completed a compression test and # 1 cylinder comes up at 95lbs.  All
the others run about 150lbs. I did a wet test and # 1 comes up to 135lbs.  Do
I pull the motor and do a ring job or is there an alternative?

I need a stiff drink!

Alan Graffam  French Blue '74 in CT.
____________________________________________________________
Obama Urges Homeowners to Refinance
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obamas Refi Program
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4cb63513314c8278b1bst05duc

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Oct 13 16:50:52 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 22:50:52 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Pull the engine?
Message-ID: <COL123-DS1286140A092493B5BF9419F4550@phx.gbl>

Al---Too early to consider pulling the motor. First, do a leakdown test to see if it can be determined where the pressure loss is occuring. Could be you only need a valve job/adjustment, or a head gasket, or maybe even just a new set of rings or a piston/set. Based strictly on the loss in #1 cylinder, you should only need to "pull the engine" if a rebore is necessary.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: otral at juno.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 3:37 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Pull the engine?

I just completed a compression test and # 1 cylinder comes up at 95lbs.  All
the others run about 150lbs. I did a wet test and # 1 comes up to 135lbs.  Do
I pull the motor and do a ring job or is there an alternative?

I need a stiff drink!

Alan Graffam  French Blue '74 in CT.
____________________________________________________________
Obama Urges Homeowners to Refinance
If you owe under $729k you probably qualify for Obamas Refi Program
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4cb63513314c8278b1bst05duc
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Wed Oct 13 17:15:31 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 19:15:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Still has an Issue
Message-ID: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
I spent some shop time on the Six.  The mystery miss is gone once I  
changed the plugs to Champions, reset the point gap and advanced the timing  a 
bit.  The miss may come back once the new plugs are burnt in, I  don't know. 
The woodpecker metal like tapping came out of the right rear  suspension once 
I greased the urethane trailing arm bushings, renewed the spring  rubber 
packings and replaced the shock links.
 
Now I have the last issue to deal with.  Every now and then the right  rear 
will make a very bad noise when taking up the drive in reverse or around  
corners.  This is more than a clunk.  It is like a gear slipping with  the 
resulting lurch. I suspect a bad bearing but who's to know?  Any  comments? 
 
Decision time is now.  The Featured Marque Six to Jekyll Island  or the 
GT6.  The GT6 has no issues as of now.  I am  trailering so not to worry but 
the GT6 was the only Triumph to leave me on  the side of the road lately when 
it snapped a u-joint in half.  I don't  like to work on cars at a National 
Convention. Although it is a great  time to do that since all the experts are 
there and anyone with a bonnet up and  tools out draws a big crowd. 
 
The Six is a pig at autocross with the redlines the GT6 may have potential. 
 Whatever, I would like to resolve this crunching noise in the TR6 rear.   
Any thoughts on that would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Darrell

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Wed Oct 13 21:04:49 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 23:04:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
Message-ID: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F@nc.rr.com>

Wellp, I've been avoiding the issue for years, but I'm going to have to
replace the chassis on me ol' '74 TR-6. It's just getting too flimsy (you
know, deadly).
Yep, that's right, the PO's frame repairs actually fall into the category:
cosmetic.

What's the current recommendation for a source for a non-competition,
driver-quality chassis frame?

Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
.

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 13 21:12:09 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 23:12:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
In-Reply-To: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F@nc.rr.com>
References: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <8CD3964B8DF3204-1828-78CF@webmail-d011.sysops.aol.com>

 RATCO   IN LONG ISLAND








-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas Morris <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Oct 13, 2010 10:04 pm
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source


Wellp, I've been avoiding the issue for years, but I'm going to have to
replace the chassis on me ol' '74 TR-6. It's just getting too flimsy (you
know, deadly).
Yep, that's right, the PO's frame repairs actually fall into the category:
cosmetic.

What's the current recommendation for a source for a non-competition,
driver-quality chassis frame?

Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
.
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From lee at automate-it.com  Wed Oct 13 21:34:32 2010
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 22:34:32 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Still has an Issue
In-Reply-To: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com>
References: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com>
Message-ID: <30c106f56126e8b71f1445a678c733d9.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

> Now I have the last issue to deal with.  Every now and then the right  rear
> will make a very bad noise when taking up the drive in reverse or around
> corners.  This is more than a clunk.

I've battled a similar noise. The diff mounts are all good, I have new wheel
bearings, the u-joints are all tight. Now I'm left with *maybe* a little too
much play in the diff, but I think the real problem is the splines on the
axles. I had a set on another car that had very little play, but on this car
(and on the spare set of axles I have) I can grab either side of the splined
joint and get a fair amount of play. There doesn't seem to be an easy fix
short of replacing the axles. GoodParts has a very nice replacement set of
axles - you can get either original style (but heavy duty) or go with CV
joints, but the set will run ~$1500 or more. What I'd *really* like is to just
go whole hog with his Nissan limited-slip, but this requires another >$1000.

If you've ever had your splined axles bind up under torque, then release, you
know what fun it is!

 - Lee

From bratt at sasktel.net  Wed Oct 13 22:12:13 2010
From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed)
Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 22:12:13 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
References: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F@nc.rr.com>
	<8CD3964B8DF3204-1828-78CF@webmail-d011.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <001201cb6b55$fb08a0f0$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd>

New frames are pretty cheap too--$4250.00,  if I recall correctly.  I have a 
1970 TR6 parts car (no motor or transmission) that spent 15 + years in a 
barn, with a solid frame, I will sell for $1,600.00.  Only problem is 
location.  I am two hours north of Plentywood, Montana..

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
To: <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 9:12 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Chassis / frame source


> RATCO   IN LONG ISLAND
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Douglas Morris <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
> To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wed, Oct 13, 2010 10:04 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
>
>
> Wellp, I've been avoiding the issue for years, but I'm going to have to
> replace the chassis on me ol' '74 TR-6. It's just getting too flimsy (you
> know, deadly).
> Yep, that's right, the PO's frame repairs actually fall into the category:
> cosmetic.
>
> What's the current recommendation for a source for a non-competition,
> driver-quality chassis frame?
>
> Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
> .
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu Oct 14 08:09:10 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 07:09:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
References: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001201cb6ba9$5f92c390$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

RatCo is the answer.
http://www.rat-co.com/Frpricelist.html
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Douglas Morris" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 8:04 PM
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source


> Wellp, I've been avoiding the issue for years, but I'm going to have to
> replace the chassis on me ol' '74 TR-6. It's just getting too flimsy (you
> know, deadly).
> Yep, that's right, the PO's frame repairs actually fall into the category:
> cosmetic.
>
> What's the current recommendation for a source for a non-competition,
> driver-quality chassis frame?
>
> Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
> .
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 14 06:43:34 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:43:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
In-Reply-To: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F@nc.rr.com>
References: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <F3C5B3F1FDFF43F7B575AF36D114A707@BobPC>

I'd go the Rat-Co (http://www.rat-co.com/index.html) route if I was 
replacing my frame and had the money. The advantages are many...... ranging 
from all new steel to known weak areas being reinforced to having it built 
with the options your want. If you buy a used frame, no matter how good it 
looks, you somehow need to see what's really under the tee-shirt and the 
inside condition of the TA mount points. There's lots of pictures in the 
6-Pack Forum of frames that looked real good until they "dug" into the 
places you can't see.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Douglas Morris" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 11:04 PM
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source

> Wellp, I've been avoiding the issue for years, but I'm going to have to
> replace the chassis on me ol' '74 TR-6. It's just getting too flimsy (you
> know, deadly).
> Yep, that's right, the PO's frame repairs actually fall into the category:
> cosmetic.
>
> What's the current recommendation for a source for a non-competition,
> driver-quality chassis frame?
>
> Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx
> .
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 14 06:54:26 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 08:54:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Still has an Issue
In-Reply-To: <30c106f56126e8b71f1445a678c733d9.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <7716e.e6f6413.39e79793@aol.com>
	<30c106f56126e8b71f1445a678c733d9.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <03280673006D4D73B7A9CE9BF61EAE59@BobPC>

I too battled clunks and clicks and finally got rid of it all 3 easy but 
$$$$ steps:

1. Installed the Nissan diff (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMain.htm) 
and boxed in the diff mounts. That got rid of the clunks and leaks but now I 
had a clicking that I traced back to worn splines on the axles.
2. In prep for #3, I first repaired all the TA studs using Rick Patton's TA 
Repair Kit (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TAJig.htm)
3. I was all set to buy Goodparts upgraded hubs when he told me he was all 
set to release his new CVJs which I got and installed 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm)

So now I have a smooth quiet diff that doesn't leak, TA studs that will 
never strip and CVJs that are quiet, smooth and new...... no need to worry 
about a rear hub breaking. I'm not a fan of rebuilding 35 year old hubs.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Lee Daniels" <lee at automate-it.com>
Sent: Wednesday, October 13, 2010 11:34 PM
To: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Still has an Issue

>> Now I have the last issue to deal with.  Every now and then the right 
>> rear
>> will make a very bad noise when taking up the drive in reverse or around
>> corners.  This is more than a clunk.
>
> I've battled a similar noise. The diff mounts are all good, I have new 
> wheel
> bearings, the u-joints are all tight. Now I'm left with *maybe* a little 
> too
> much play in the diff, but I think the real problem is the splines on the
> axles. I had a set on another car that had very little play, but on this 
> car
> (and on the spare set of axles I have) I can grab either side of the 
> splined
> joint and get a fair amount of play. There doesn't seem to be an easy fix
> short of replacing the axles. GoodParts has a very nice replacement set of
> axles - you can get either original style (but heavy duty) or go with CV
> joints, but the set will run ~$1500 or more. What I'd *really* like is to 
> just
> go whole hog with his Nissan limited-slip, but this requires another 
>  >$1000.
>
> If you've ever had your splined axles bind up under torque, then release, 
> you
> know what fun it is!
>
> - Lee
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 14 07:07:39 2010
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 06:07:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Camshaft poll
In-Reply-To: <F3C5B3F1FDFF43F7B575AF36D114A707@BobPC>
Message-ID: <206940.91961.qm@web120511.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

Hello 6-pack,

I'm in the process of laying out the rebuild of my 6-cyl and am trying to decide which cam I should use.  I know this is a grey area for many people and opinion is easier than fact, but I would like to tap into the experiences of the members to help me decide which one I should choose.

This is going to be for a street car, with lost of winding roads and not much highway running. Here's what I've chosen so far:  I have the late model engine - which will be balanced and blueprinted, with an aluminum flywheel; I plan on the 1.65:1 roller rocker setup; I'll be adding EFI (haven't decided on a system yet, but leaning towards MPI over TBI) & an EDIS system; 6-3-1 headers w/ free-flow exhaust system. I already have an A-Type overdrive for those times I will be cruising at higher speeds.

My early favorites are the TR5 profile, Richard Good's GP2 or TSI's S-2. If you have another cam you're really happy with, please suggest it, or give me your experiences with the above.

Thanks in advance,

Raymond L. Hatfield

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 14 07:52:01 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 09:52:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
Message-ID: <D6CFDF2B5165447092D8E34F245C1397@JaneShawPC>

Doug
I wholeheartedly agree with others on this list who have recommended RATCO as
a source for a new chassis. My RATCO TR6 frame was one of the first few Tony
Vigliotti produced and fitment to the tub was perfect. I got most of the bells
and whistles, including a rear sway bar, foam-filling and coil-over-shock at
the time of fabrication.  The frame is built like a tank and does weigh about
80 lbs more than stock, if my memory serves me. Jacking up the car in the
middle doesn't cause the doors to bind, like with my old frame.

Tony's support has been wonderful.

Up until the time I decided to go with RATCO, I wasted a good year looking for
a replacement. As mentioned by others, a good used replacement or a re-welding
of your old one is still fraught with uncertainties and will cost about 1500
to 1800 USD.

My old one looked beautiful from a rust standpoint,  until I started looking
closely after sandblasting. The front wishbone supports were trashed, the
shock towers had hair-line cracks, the main rails had wrinkles from having
been straightened from an accident, and the rear diff pin  supports were
cracked. Not only that, it didn't set level on my garage floor. And I didn't
know what was under the T-shirt. I've read that re-welding the shock towers
doesn't yield reliable results, either.

My rebuilt TR6 is now on the road and can be seen here:
http://www.triumphowners.com/977

Jerry Shaw


Date: Wed, 13 Oct 2010 23:04:49 -0400
From: Douglas Morris <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
Subject: [6pack] Chassis / frame source
To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <9FD873BA-9F9B-4AD6-82A6-55178FD4AF9F at nc.rr.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii

Wellp, I've been avoiding the issue for years, but I'm going to have to
replace the chassis on me ol' '74 TR-6. It's just getting too flimsy (you
know, deadly).
Yep, that's right, the PO's frame repairs actually fall into the category:
cosmetic.

What's the current recommendation for a source for a non-competition,
driver-quality chassis frame?

Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx

From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu Oct 14 19:13:21 2010
From: emanteno at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Thu, 14 Oct 2010 20:13:21 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ride needed Jacksonville to VTR
Message-ID: <AANLkTinX9CdETb2Lb47SrzaFF93SK0ozVOvh6V542-J7@mail.gmail.com>

Good evening,

I am driving the TR6 from suburban Chicago to Jekyll Island this weekend,
while my better 9/10ths will be
flying to Jacksonville to attend a family wedding. If one of you Florida
guys is driving via Jacksonville on Sunday,
and are willing to TRansport her to the Jekyll Island Club Hotel, please
contact me off list.

THANKS,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From dadstr250 at gmail.com  Sun Oct 17 12:30:03 2010
From: dadstr250 at gmail.com (Michael Malling)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 14:30:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Don Malling's 1973 MGB & TR6
Message-ID: <AANLkTikXhuxtGg_m4UDyAr5Q7VRLptxF-BbUJXb4A3Wc@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry if this ends up being a double post, it appears that my subscription
expired and I had to re-activate:

Hey all, not sure if you guys still remeber my dad or not, but he was a
memeber of these groups and I thought to send this to you guys first. We
have a 1973 MGB which was in fine running condition about 5 years ago and at
TR6 ( not sure of the year) from Texas which he was planning on using as
parts car for a restoration. These cars are in Friendsville, PA  ( Close to0
Binghamton, NY) right now and I am attempting to see if there is anyone with
any interest in them . The following link has pictures:
http://picasaweb.google.com/jrebels5/20101013#

At this point I think we are just looking to get them to someone who will be
able to use them. Contact me if you have any questions, I know a pretty good
deal about the MGB as I worked on it and drove it in highschool, but the TR6
I know little about. Also if anyone can suggest a better forum / group to
post this too, please let me know as well. Thanks.

From rnorris1 at swbell.net  Sun Oct 17 23:08:05 2010
From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris)
Date: Sun, 17 Oct 2010 22:08:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <479434.84495.qm@web81507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

http://net2buy.net/und7.html

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 18 06:59:48 2010
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 05:59:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Camshaft poll Results
In-Reply-To: <206940.91961.qm@web120511.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <715271.12862.qm@web120504.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

I wanted to update the list with my results:

First of all, I received 6 replies - not a large sampling to work with, but interesting results anyway.

* Headwork was at the top of the list of things suggested along with a new cam (I assume they meant the car, but maybe they were talking about me?).  I failed to mention this in my original post, but did plan on a port-n-polish along with raising the CR to 9.5:1 or 10:1.

^ It was also reccommended that I eliminate the fan and go electric - which  I do plan on doing.

* One person told me that the 1.65:1 rockers were definately overkill for a street engine..

^ Two people mentioned the Iskendarien Z-19 cam. One person highly reccomended it, but his experience was with a 12:1 CR moter -  the other said it was milder than the S-2

^ I had one person say the were running the GP-2 and were happy with it, while another described it as 'mild, wicked mild'

* Another cam tha was reccomended was TSI's TSI275-6, described as a great street cam.

I want to thank again everyone who responded, and invite anyone else who has experience or reccomendations to please speak up. I will take all comments and suggestions into consideration.  I will report back when I have picked one out :)

Thanks again,
Raymond L. Hatfield

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Oct 18 16:54:21 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 18 Oct 2010 18:54:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Test please delete
Message-ID: <201010181854.23999.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Testing

From tedtr6 at martinwebsite.net  Tue Oct 19 20:51:46 2010
From: tedtr6 at martinwebsite.net (Ted TR6)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:51:46 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Paint and interior work
Message-ID: <bbf0d3a5f3f0634f4675f51b4abfb946@martinwebsite.net>

B 
I am in process of getting a TR6 (been waiting for awhile and looking forward
to it) and would like to get some recommendations on painting and interior
work in the Massachusetts area.B  Thanks.

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Oct 19 20:59:08 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 22:59:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Paint and interior work
In-Reply-To: <bbf0d3a5f3f0634f4675f51b4abfb946@martinwebsite.net>
References: <bbf0d3a5f3f0634f4675f51b4abfb946@martinwebsite.net>
Message-ID: <C3AC90FC09B342379F58CFED60A3DB8D@BobPC>

Any good auto body shop can do the paint.........depends on how much 
disassembly you do before hand. As for the interior, that's an easy do it 
yourself project on a TR6. What kind of interior work are you talking about?

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ted TR6" <tedtr6 at martinwebsite.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 19, 2010 10:51 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Paint and interior work

> B
> I am in process of getting a TR6 (been waiting for awhile and looking 
> forward
> to it) and would like to get some recommendations on painting and interior
> work in the Massachusetts area.B  Thanks.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 20 17:05:47 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Wed, 20 Oct 2010 19:05:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Paint and interior work
Message-ID: <5794616F76E24EC1997E0551F1093DB0@JaneShawPC>

I live in neighboring Connecticut, where I had difficulty finding a good paint
shop that did restorations instead of, or in addition to, insurance repairs.
The latter is much more lucrative, so your job may sit around for months while
they work on it between insurance jobs, particularly in the Northeast with ice
storms or near interstates with lots of fender benders.

I found one who specialized in restorations, but my car was there for months,
too, all the time accumulating hourly labor costs for high school kids to sand
and fill. I finally withdrew the job and went to another shop.

Don't do what I did and have the shop paint the tub, then  the panels
separately to be assembled later. You can prime it this way, but let them do
the entire body, including panel alignment attached to the frame all at once.
This is particularly important if the new paint color is not the same as the
old and everything has to be taken apart to do a good job. Getting panel gaps
and alignment right is a real pain for the amateur, and you risk dinging
painted panels putting it back together yourself.

Mine came out spectacularly, but the paint shop did it twice -- the second
time at their expense, since they screwed up the color matching (single stage
paint was not their expertise) in doing the panels separately.

So the other thing is the shop's reputation. Choose wisely and be informed,
and get a fixed price. You may not get a fixed price if they suspect hidden
rust, however. So unless you take the thing apart before-hand you or they may
not know what's underneath.

The other thing is choosing the paint technology, single stage or
clear-over-base. The latter ended up on my car, since my paint shop knew it
best.

Obviously, stay away from Maaco or Earl Schieb if you want a quality job,
though I have heard of good results from some shops, so who knows!

On the interior, I had done a complete body-off restoration and had purchased
the interior kit from Heritage instead of the big three. Given I had already
spent years getting it to the final stages, I decided to have an upholstery
shop install the kit and the Robins top, since I was tired of restoration.
Connecticut is notoriously expensive state, but Massachusetts is more
reasonable, so this wasn't cheap.

But if the interior is the only thing you plan on doing yourself, it is not a
big deal. There are lots of sources for DIY documentation.

Jerry Shaw
'74 TR6 Mallard Green http://www.triumphowners.com/977





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
---------------

Date: Tue, 19 Oct 2010 19:51:46 -0700
From: Ted TR6 <tedtr6 at martinwebsite.net>
Subject: [6pack] Paint and interior work
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <bbf0d3a5f3f0634f4675f51b4abfb946 at martinwebsite.net>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8

B
I am in process of getting a TR6 (been waiting for awhile and looking forward
to it) and would like to get some recommendations on painting and interior
work in the Massachusetts area.B  Thanks.

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 21 08:41:22 2010
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 07:41:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] 6 cyl Camshaft results
Message-ID: <124592.11733.qm@web120518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>

As promised, here is the latest results from my 'poll':

* a total of 14 people responded to my questions.

* 4 people give strong recommendations for the Isky Z-19
  one person said they got 140 rwhp w/12:1 CR and other mods

* 3 people said they were happy with the GP2 cam
  one person described as mild, but was able to get 110 rwhp w/9.5:1 CR

* 1 person said they were happy with the S-2 cam

* 1 person said they were happy with the TR5 cam, but warned the power didn't come on until 3K rpm

* 1 person liked the Kent 'Fast Road' cam

* 1 person liked the stock cam w/1.65:1 rockers - said it really transformed the performance

* other cams recommended:
  BPNW's BP270   - described as mild, but was capable of 124 rwhp w10:1 CR
   "     BP285   - better, with more lift and torque
  GoodParts GP-3 - good power - 130 rwhp w/10:1 CR & 1.65:1 rockers
  TSI 275-6   
  Intregral Cams - (http://www.integralcams.com/)
  Oregon Cams    - 1396 for street, 1313 for autox(http://www.pacifier.com/~orcam/Mechanical-Cam-Specs.html)

and one that's in development by Tilden Cams which looks very promising.
(http://www.tildentechnologies.com/index.html)

I appreciate all the input, lot's of good information given.  Other point brought out were:

Head work is critical for best performance.
Stock manifolds are very restrictive - best performance from any cam will not be realized until intake is improved.
Most recommended a CR of 9.5:1 for a street car.
Mixed results on the 1.65 rockers

After all this input, I think my top 3 are now the Z-19, TSI275-6 or the new Tilden cam.  First thing I'm going to do is to find out about the Tilden before I make a final choice.

Raymond L. Hatfield

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Thu Oct 21 09:05:35 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Oct 2010 11:05:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6 cyl Camshaft results
In-Reply-To: <124592.11733.qm@web120518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
References: <124592.11733.qm@web120518.mail.ne1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CD3F488C2A1FFF-ED8-75D2@webmail-d069.sysops.aol.com>

 Several of us are running TILDEN cams in our race cars. It is the best cam
for our purposes and very thoughtfully engineered.

A lot of work and collaboration went into the development and the guy behind
this effort is 'one of us' and brilliant.

You may want to talk to Larry directly to confirm what your needs are. He will
listen.

Joe Alexander











-----Original Message-----
From: Raymond Hatfield <iron_horse819 at yahoo.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, Oct 21, 2010 9:41 am
Subject: [6pack] 6 cyl Camshaft results


As promised, here is the latest results from my 'poll':



* a total of 14 people responded to my questions.



* 4 people give strong recommendations for the Isky Z-19

  one person said they got 140 rwhp w/12:1 CR and other mods



* 3 people said they were happy with the GP2 cam

  one person described as mild, but was able to get 110 rwhp w/9.5:1 CR



* 1 person said they were happy with the S-2 cam



* 1 person said they were happy with the TR5 cam, but warned the power didn't

come on until 3K rpm



* 1 person liked the Kent 'Fast Road' cam



* 1 person liked the stock cam w/1.65:1 rockers - said it really transformed
the

performance



* other cams recommended:

  BPNW's BP270   - described as mild, but was capable of 124 rwhp w10:1 CR

   "     BP285   - better, with more lift and torque

  GoodParts GP-3 - good power - 130 rwhp w/10:1 CR & 1.65:1 rockers

  TSI 275-6

  Intregral Cams - (http://www.integralcams.com/)

  Oregon Cams    - 1396 for street, 1313 for
autox(http://www.pacifier.com/~orcam/Mechanical-Cam-Specs.html)



and one that's in development by Tilden Cams which looks very promising.

(http://www.tildentechnologies.com/index.html)



I appreciate all the input, lot's of good information given.  Other point

brought out were:



Head work is critical for best performance.

Stock manifolds are very restrictive - best performance from any cam will not
be

realized until intake is improved.

Most recommended a CR of 9.5:1 for a street car.

Mixed results on the 1.65 rockers



After all this input, I think my top 3 are now the Z-19, TSI275-6 or the new

Tilden cam.  First thing I'm going to do is to find out about the Tilden
before

I make a final choice.



Raymond L. Hatfield

_______________________________________________



6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From janah at att.net  Sat Oct 23 09:22:24 2010
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 11:22:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fender Help?
Message-ID: <F925397CB5F541E68898602CD3E7A4DE@p4home>

The front fenders are off.  The left one has some rust damage to the 
headlight region.  The rocker portion of that fender has rusted before and 
been repained with filler.

The right fender has a moderate amount of rust in the headlight area and the 
rocker portion is pretty well gone.

What are my options here?

I suppose Heritage fenders are an option, but at >$600 each, that is a lot 
of money.  I have heard unsubstanciated rumors that these are made with 
thinner gauge metal and that the detail is soft and that they don't fit 
well.  Yet the vendors all describe these as OEM fenders that fit well and 
are the same as the originals.Can anyone comment?

Sourcing used fender is a littlle problematic - these are going to be hard 
to find without rust.  I have seen some used fenders selling for all most as 
much money as the new ones. Commnets?

I think I have seen that the rocker area on the TR250 fenders can be 
purchased as a "clip". Looks like Moss in the EU used to have clips for the 
TR6 but now these seem to be NLA?  Commnets?

Fiberglass fenders are not an option for me on this car.

Any help would be appreciated!

John Cyg
CC52927LO
Damson 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct 23 09:51:07 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 11:51:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fender Help?
In-Reply-To: <F925397CB5F541E68898602CD3E7A4DE@p4home>
References: <F925397CB5F541E68898602CD3E7A4DE@p4home>
Message-ID: <201010231151.08387.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, October 23, 2010 11:22:24 am John Cyganowski wrote:
> The front fenders are off.  The left one has some rust damage to the
> headlight region.  The rocker portion of that fender has rusted before and
> been repained with filler.
> 
> The right fender has a moderate amount of rust in the headlight area and
> the rocker portion is pretty well gone.
> 
> What are my options here?
> 
> I suppose Heritage fenders are an option, but at >$600 each, that is a lot
> of money.  I have heard unsubstanciated rumors that these are made with
> thinner gauge metal and that the detail is soft and that they don't fit
> well.  Yet the vendors all describe these as OEM fenders that fit well and
> are the same as the originals.Can anyone comment?
> 
> Sourcing used fender is a littlle problematic - these are going to be hard
> to find without rust.  I have seen some used fenders selling for all most
> as much money as the new ones. Commnets?
> 
> I think I have seen that the rocker area on the TR250 fenders can be
> purchased as a "clip". Looks like Moss in the EU used to have clips for the
> TR6 but now these seem to be NLA?  Commnets?
> 
> Fiberglass fenders are not an option for me on this car.
> 
> Any help would be appreciated!
> 
> John Cyg
> CC52927LO
> Damson
John,

I agree, fiberglass fenders are not an option. I tried them with the rears and 
the fit was terrible. I ended up sourcing a pretty good used set from a guy in 
Alabama. They were in very good condition and fit perfect.

The problem with the fronts is if rocker areas are gone you will have a hard 
time repairing them. I dont think the repair clips are available. At least 
when I tried to get a set for my 63 4 they were NLA.

 I sourced my rears from this real nice guy: Marv Gruber. His email address 
is: mgruber921 at aol.com.

I think he has a barn full of 6 parts so you may want to fire an email to him. 
Please mention my email address and the fact that he did a very good job for 
me on my fender requirement. Price was right and he even shipped the fenders 
to me before I sent the $ to him for the fenders and shipping.

Bob

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Oct 23 11:13:36 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 13:13:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fender Help?
In-Reply-To: <201010231151.08387.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <F925397CB5F541E68898602CD3E7A4DE@p4home>
	<201010231151.08387.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <8CD40ECC3B4E0A0-1508-D12D@webmail-m041.sysops.aol.com>

 YES! Marv Gruber is an option....his collection started with his dad and
there are a few buildings filled with parts and cars. I have been there a
couple of times.

Impressive!   Joe A.








-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: John Cyganowski <janah at att.net>
Sent: Sat, Oct 23, 2010 10:51 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] Fender Help?


On Saturday, October 23, 2010 11:22:24 am John Cyganowski wrote:

> The front fenders are off.  The left one has some rust damage to the

> headlight region.  The rocker portion of that fender has rusted before and

> been repained with filler.

>

> The right fender has a moderate amount of rust in the headlight area and

> the rocker portion is pretty well gone.

>

> What are my options here?

>

> I suppose Heritage fenders are an option, but at >$600 each, that is a lot

> of money.  I have heard unsubstanciated rumors that these are made with

> thinner gauge metal and that the detail is soft and that they don't fit

> well.  Yet the vendors all describe these as OEM fenders that fit well and

> are the same as the originals.Can anyone comment?

>

> Sourcing used fender is a littlle problematic - these are going to be hard

> to find without rust.  I have seen some used fenders selling for all most

> as much money as the new ones. Commnets?

>

> I think I have seen that the rocker area on the TR250 fenders can be

> purchased as a "clip". Looks like Moss in the EU used to have clips for the

> TR6 but now these seem to be NLA?  Commnets?

>

> Fiberglass fenders are not an option for me on this car.

>

> Any help would be appreciated!

>

> John Cyg

> CC52927LO

> Damson

John,



I agree, fiberglass fenders are not an option. I tried them with the rears and

the fit was terrible. I ended up sourcing a pretty good used set from a guy in

Alabama. They were in very good condition and fit perfect.



The problem with the fronts is if rocker areas are gone you will have a hard

time repairing them. I dont think the repair clips are available. At least

when I tried to get a set for my 63 4 they were NLA.



 I sourced my rears from this real nice guy: Marv Gruber. His email address

is: mgruber921 at aol.com.



I think he has a barn full of 6 parts so you may want to fire an email to him.

Please mention my email address and the fact that he did a very good job for

me on my fender requirement. Price was right and he even shipped the fenders

to me before I sent the $ to him for the fenders and shipping.



Bob

_______________________________________________



6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat Oct 23 15:34:36 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 17:34:36 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
Message-ID: <d74fd.20e0a535.39f4aeec@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying at  
sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. What  
was left are some real nasty water spots.  Now home, I have first  tried wax, 
no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still  there.  Now 
what?
Thanks in Advance,
Darrell

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Oct 23 16:10:17 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 18:10:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
In-Reply-To: <d74fd.20e0a535.39f4aeec@aol.com>
References: <d74fd.20e0a535.39f4aeec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <FF03189241EA443F8C562FF3B0B59751@Robert>

My recommendation would be to use a clay bar. Start by washing down the
entire car with a car wash product, which does not have wax or shine
properties in it. Then get a Mothers or Maguire's clay bar kit, follow the
instructions to the tee. Once done, do a good wax and polish job and you
should resolve the issue.

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Oct 23 20:31:51 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 19:31:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
References: <d74fd.20e0a535.39f4aeec@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001501cb7323$9de9dcb0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

You need something with a "cleaner" in the label.
That stuff settled into your glaze and putting more glaze on top won't help.
I have used Meguiar's Cleaner Wax on tar or whatever spots, works just fine.
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1420296&CAWELAID=109354546
Regards,
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 2:34 PM
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!


> Hey Guys,
> At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying at
> sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. What
> was left are some real nasty water spots.  Now home, I have first  tried
wax,
> no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still  there.
Now
> what?
> Thanks in Advance,
> Darrell
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From rcmlndz at aol.com  Sat Oct 23 19:55:57 2010
From: rcmlndz at aol.com (Ricardo Melendez)
Date: Sat, 23 Oct 2010 21:55:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
In-Reply-To: <001501cb7323$9de9dcb0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
References: <d74fd.20e0a535.39f4aeec@aol.com>
	<001501cb7323$9de9dcb0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <E76D9EEF-00E9-4FD7-B657-221975DEF830@aol.com>

Try white vinegar. It will work for sure

Sent from my iPhone

On Oct 23, 2010, at 10:31 PM, Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:

> You need something with a "cleaner" in the label.
> That stuff settled into your glaze and putting more glaze on top won't
help.
> I have used Meguiar's Cleaner Wax on tar or whatever spots, works just
fine.
>
http://www.acehardware.com/product/index.jsp?productId=1420296&CAWELAID=10935
4546
> Regards,
> Bob
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 2:34 PM
> Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
>
>
>> Hey Guys,
>> At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying at
>> sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. What
>> was left are some real nasty water spots.  Now home, I have first  tried
> wax,
>> no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still  there.
> Now
>> what?
>> Thanks in Advance,
>> Darrell
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rcmlndz at aol.com

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Sun Oct 24 06:36:51 2010
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 08:36:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
In-Reply-To: <E76D9EEF-00E9-4FD7-B657-221975DEF830@aol.com>
References: <d74fd.20e0a535.39f4aeec@aol.com>
	<001501cb7323$9de9dcb0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
	<E76D9EEF-00E9-4FD7-B657-221975DEF830@aol.com>
Message-ID: <66e0bdb3953bf.4cc3f023@wright.edu>

I'm voting with Ricardo.  Limestone dissolves in water through acid in the water and when the water evaporates the calcium precipitates from the water and lands on your car. Mild acid like vinegar will re-dissolve it and the rinse it off. . Vinegar removes hard water spots from windows, same principal. Also easier than rubbing out the whole car.

----- Original Message -----
From: Ricardo Melendez <rcmlndz at aol.com>
Date: Saturday, October 23, 2010 9:56 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
To: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Cc: "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>

> Try white vinegar. It will work for sure
> 
> Sent from my iPhone

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Oct 24 14:24:35 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 24 Oct 2010 20:24:35 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!
Message-ID: <COL123-DS20F73F26AB4A22E0F57EA2F4400@phx.gbl>

Darrell---If you've polished over the water spots, the vinegar may not easily get to them. I would agree with those who like the Mother's Clay Bar treatment. Makes the whole finish smooth and shiny!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, October 23, 2010 2:34 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Water Spots!!!!

Hey Guys,
At the NATC on Jekyll Island a sprinkler @ the cottage we were staying at  
sprayed my Laurel TR6 with some nasty hard water, or worst I guess. What  
was left are some real nasty water spots.  Now home, I have first  tried wax, 
no good, then #7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze Polish, nope still  there.  Now 
what?
Thanks in Advance,
Darrell
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Oct 25 16:46:58 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Oct 2010 18:46:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR250  HOOD AND TRUNK BADGES ON eBAY
Message-ID: <8CD42ADAA4C4EFA-1CF4-24EC@webmail-m030.sysops.aol.com>

I thought I would put these back in circulation.

Actually very good, even excellent.

Thanks,

Joe A

From otral at juno.com  Tue Oct 26 16:23:48 2010
From: otral at juno.com (otral at juno.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 22:23:48 GMT
Subject: [6pack] "pull engine?" not!
Message-ID: <20101026.182348.12378.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com>

My worst fears evaporated when I removed the valve cover to discover my rocker
arm assembly shaft had snapped over #1 cylinder.  I just happen to have a
spare parts motor with rocker arm assembly already off the head and ready to
be fitted on.  These great moments in life seldom happen to me!

Al Graffam - 74 French Blue  CT.

____________________________________________________________
Get Free Email with Video Mail & Video Chat!
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From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Oct 26 16:51:11 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 18:51:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] "pull engine?" not!
In-Reply-To: <20101026.182348.12378.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com>
References: <20101026.182348.12378.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <201010261851.12583.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday, October 26, 2010 06:23:48 pm otral at juno.com wrote:
> My worst fears evaporated when I removed the valve cover to discover my
> rocker arm assembly shaft had snapped over #1 cylinder.  I just happen to
> have a spare parts motor with rocker arm assembly already off the head and
> ready to be fitted on.  These great moments in life seldom happen to me!
> 
> Al Graffam - 74 French Blue  CT.
> 
Al,

I have never heard of this problem. What caused the shaft to shap? Something 
does not sound right here. Are you getting good oil flow to the shaft?

Make sure when you install the replacement to make sure you oil it up first 
and after setting the tappets to run the engine with the valve cover off to 
insure you are getting oil to the entire shaft.

Bob

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Oct 27 08:01:05 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 27 Oct 2010 10:01:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] "pull engine?" not!
In-Reply-To: <20101026.182348.12378.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com>
References: <20101026.182348.12378.0@webmail19.dca.untd.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1010270952060.22141@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 26 Oct 2010, otral at juno.com wrote:

> My worst fears evaporated when I removed the valve cover to discover my rocker
> arm assembly shaft had snapped over #1 cylinder.  I just happen to have a
> spare parts motor with rocker arm assembly already off the head and ready to
> be fitted on.  These great moments in life seldom happen to me!

The question is "why?"

Before you put the new rocker assembly on, make certain that the valves 
aren't "stuck" in the guides (tap with a hammer, you'll get a dull thud if 
the valve is hung up. You don't have to hit the valves hard, just make 
sure they're not siezed.

The shafts usually break along a line that has the oil hole from rocker 
pedestal to the set screw that keeps the shaft from turning. But that's 
between valve 12 and valve 11 (counting from the front of the engine).

Don't ask how I know that the shafts break.

> Al Graffam - 74 French Blue  CT.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Thu Oct 28 17:06:21 2010
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 07:06:21 +0800
Subject: [6pack] LED lamp conversions
Message-ID: <AANLkTi=Mm1rUcS5meH0S4CqCda1zLe841-3R98-zrhkS@mail.gmail.com>

Good morning,
Could someone please give me the number for the bulbs used in the stop and
directional signals used in the rear of a TR6?
I'm working in Taiwan and have discovered that the auto part stores sell LED
conversions for common SAE lamps, such as #1156 and #1157. I can't recall
off the top of my head what lamps are used in the TR6. The conversions are
studded with LED chips covering the end and the periphery of the lamp, so
they are not very directional, a complaint I've heard about some
conversions. The price for them seems reasonable, so I thought I'd bring a
set home and try them.

Many thanks,
--Phil Barnes, CC61193L since 1977

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 29 06:28:36 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 12:28:36 +0000
Subject: [6pack] LED lamp conversions
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTi=Mm1rUcS5meH0S4CqCda1zLe841-3R98-zrhkS@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=Mm1rUcS5meH0S4CqCda1zLe841-3R98-zrhkS@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W2275AC53ABEB69808AFD1C8E450@phx.gbl>

Phil,
The 1157 is the duel filament bulb used in stop/tail lamp. You want to be sure
it's a 360 degree bulb, which it sounds like it is, and red LEDs. They fill up
the TR lenses pretty well. They're between $5 and $10 each on Ebay. By brother
also put yellow 1156s in his turn signals.

Sloane :)
69-Six

>
> Good morning,
> Could someone please give me the number for the bulbs used in the stop and
> directional signals used in the rear of a TR6?
> I'm working in Taiwan and have discovered that the auto part stores sell
LED
> conversions for common SAE lamps, such as #1156 and #1157. I can't recall
> off the top of my head what lamps are used in the TR6. The conversions are
> studded with LED chips covering the end and the periphery of the lamp, so
> they are not very directional, a complaint I've heard about some
> conversions. The price for them seems reasonable, so I thought I'd bring a
> set home and try them.
>
> Many thanks,
> --Phil Barnes, CC61193L since 1977

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri Oct 29 10:02:18 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 09:02:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] LED lamp conversions
References: <AANLkTi=Mm1rUcS5meH0S4CqCda1zLe841-3R98-zrhkS@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000801cb7782$a9cf9ac0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Hi Phil,
Old story. Just curious, anything on the package about "ballast" otherwise
the LED device will not draw enough current for the flasher unit to
function?
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Philip Barnes" <pebarnes71 at gmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 28, 2010 4:06 PM
Subject: [6pack] LED lamp conversions


> Good morning,
> Could someone please give me the number for the bulbs used in the stop and
> directional signals used in the rear of a TR6?
> I'm working in Taiwan and have discovered that the auto part stores sell
LED
> conversions for common SAE lamps, such as #1156 and #1157. I can't recall
> off the top of my head what lamps are used in the TR6. The conversions are
> studded with LED chips covering the end and the periphery of the lamp, so
> they are not very directional, a complaint I've heard about some
> conversions. The price for them seems reasonable, so I thought I'd bring a
> set home and try them.
>
> Many thanks,
> --Phil Barnes, CC61193L since 1977
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Fri Oct 29 08:08:56 2010
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 22:08:56 +0800
Subject: [6pack] LED lamp conversions
In-Reply-To: <000801cb7782$a9cf9ac0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
References: <AANLkTi=Mm1rUcS5meH0S4CqCda1zLe841-3R98-zrhkS@mail.gmail.com>
	<000801cb7782$a9cf9ac0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinAZJttVP8oQVrvQ1cgcmSRSNMBrb9GXjd9FKq+@mail.gmail.com>

I'm aware of the flasher consideration. I replaced the flasher unit in my
car with an electronic module years ago, so that's no longer a concern.

As far as the details, well, how's your Chinese?

--Phil

On Sat, Oct 30, 2010 at 12:02 AM, Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:

> Hi Phil,
> Old story. Just curious, anything on the package about "ballast" otherwise
> the LED device will not draw enough current for the flasher unit to
> function?

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 29 09:36:13 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 15:36:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] LED lamp conversions
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTinAZJttVP8oQVrvQ1cgcmSRSNMBrb9GXjd9FKq+@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTi=Mm1rUcS5meH0S4CqCda1zLe841-3R98-zrhkS@mail.gmail.com>,
	<000801cb7782$a9cf9ac0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>,
	<AANLkTinAZJttVP8oQVrvQ1cgcmSRSNMBrb9GXjd9FKq+@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W247729D51573A9BFCC8EEE8E450@phx.gbl>

Just a note about the 'yellow' bulbs. I had warned my brother that they
wouldn't flash right without a 'heavy duty' flasher unit. His car apparently
already had one because he popped the bulbs in and they flashed fine with no
problems. All I wanted was the brighter and redder stop lamps, but he likes
that LED instant on-off on the turn signals. He's been meaning to get them for
the front. He also has a chrome tag bracket with an LED 3rd stop lamp.
Brothers... :o)  He's a 5 year owner, I'm a 25 year owner. (haha)

One issue I did have with the stop lamps. My brake lamp switch was adjusted
right were it was too close to the on-off point when sitting at a normal stop.
This wasn't too noticable with the regular bulbs, but with with the LEDs he
said my brake lights blinked on and off when I was just sitting at a light. I
was able to adjust the switch so if my foot was on the pedal, the lights
stayed on.

Sloane
69-Six
>
> I'm aware of the flasher consideration. I replaced the flasher unit in my
> car with an electronic module years ago, so that's no longer a concern.
>
> As far as the details, well, how's your Chinese?
>
> --Phil
>
> On Sat, Oct 30, 2010 at 12:02 AM, Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:

From TR6UO at aol.com  Fri Oct 29 16:52:25 2010
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Oct 2010 18:52:25 EDT
Subject: [6pack] LED lamp conversions
Message-ID: <138f7d.7adb0dc5.39fcaa29@aol.com>

Phil,
 
Sorry you had to go all the way to China. Those have been available in the  
US for several years, and they're not that expensive. You want the ones 
with the  360 degree diodes and you want to use red for red tail lamps. Don't 
depend on  the lens to change a white LED to red. The whites are more 
expensive, anyway.  The other posters are correct about the flasher issues.
 
Regards,
 
Steve
'72 TR6

From john70350 at msn.com  Sun Oct 31 17:35:23 2010
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 00:35:23 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder haed swap
Message-ID: <BLU151-w385812B825154A928F7230F7480@phx.gbl>

Hi all,
         I am dropping a 1972 TR6 engine in my GT6 and had a quick question
regarding combustion chamber size and compression ratio. Because of extreme
hood clearance issues on the GT6 I want to use the shorter 1972 GT6 head that
I have on the engine to give me additional hood clearance. I know the
combustion chamber is smaller on the GT6 head but the ports are the same. Has
anyone made this switch on their TR6 or seen a chart that would give me an
idea on compression ratio before I cc the heads? Thanks!

                                               John Johnson
                                              Columbus, Ohio

From mark at bradakis.com  Sun Oct 31 20:49:25 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Sun, 31 Oct 2010 21:49:25 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder haed swap
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w385812B825154A928F7230F7480@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w385812B825154A928F7230F7480@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4CCE38C5.9050706@bradakis.com>

Application       CR    Thickness   CC depth   CC volume


GT6 Mk I        9.50
GT6+            9.25     3.450     0.425       34
GT6 Mk III      9.25     3.32       .47        37
(early)
GT6 Mk III      8.0      3.40       .55        44
(late)
TR250, TR6      8.5      3.55       .60        48.5
TR6 middle      7.75     3.54       .68        55
TR6 late        7.5      3.55       .70        57
TR6 race 1     10.25     3.375      .52        41.6
TR6 race 2     12.3      3.295      .44        33
GT6 race 1     10.75     3.31       .385       30
GT6 race 2     12.75     3.22       .300       24.4


mjb.