From janah at att.net  Mon Nov  1 04:08:53 2010
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 07:08:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
Message-ID: <EF5B30293E5E4985A440F0720E148A08@p4home>

Hi All-

I would like to ask the list for frame rehabilitation advice. What things 
should be done, what things are nice to do? Any one that has been there 
before or sombody that just wants to opine, please chime in.

I have an 1970 vintage frame. The rack mount tack welds are cracked. No 
reinforcing on the front lower A arm mounts. Only 1 reimfocement on the rear 
lower A arm mount. Cracked right diff mount.

Sorry a Ratco frame is not an option for me. I have seen diff bridge 
reinforements. Are this a good thing / necessary?

Thanks,
John Cyg 

From Pimento73 at aol.com  Mon Nov  1 05:10:40 2010
From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 08:10:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder haed swap
Message-ID: <35b3d.5447c283.3a000840@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/31/2010 8:54:30 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
john70350 at msn.com writes:

Because  of extreme 
hood clearance issues on the GT6 I want to use the shorter 1972  GT6 head 
that
I have on the engine to give me additional hood  clearance.
 
 
 
huh?  unless you think 1/10 inch or less is a big difference, it won't  be 
enough to gain you any hood clearance.
But, you can increase compression ratio by putting a GT6 head on a TR6  
engine

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Nov  1 08:24:19 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 09:24:19 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Your LiteZupp replacement will be in the mail today!
References: <AANLkTike1Gjsk4-KC074Lgf3zrcM8ovU5jwLkjkWv_Kw@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <91619030-A831-49BA-B272-757953A4A5D8@comcast.net>

List thanks for all the suggestions on my cruise control/tail light  
issue with the LiteZupp LEDs.  I was just running through the checking  
ground, checking the old lights, scenarios when I got this message  
(below) from Chris Reyher at LiteZupp.

They were aware of the issue and are sending re-circuited LEDs that  
correct the problem.

I want them to get credit for their quick response and resolving the  
issue since I'd posted to the list about the problem.

I would certainly buy from them again if the opportunity arises as  
their LEDs are the type of quality you can see and feel when you look  
at them and hold them in your hand.

Thanks
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




Begin forwarded message:

> From: Chris Reyher <chris at reyher.com>
> Date: November 1, 2010 8:32:44 AM MDT
> To: Bud Rolofsan <levilevi at comcast.net>
> Subject: Your LiteZupp replacement will be in the mail today!
>
> Good morning Bud!
>
> We are very sorry that you experienced trouble with your lights. We  
> are aware of the problem and have seen it other cars, but never in  
> the Triumphs.
> We changed the circuitry to fix the issue a while back, and thought  
> we had the "old" lamps isolated, but obviously that pair slipped  
> through the cracks. It's just our dumb luck that your car
> is equipped with cruise control!
>
> Your replacement lamps are on the way. You are welcome to keep the  
> original pair you purchased. Just don't put them on a car with  
> cruise control.
>
> Thank you very much for your business. Your complete satisfaction is  
> important to us.
>
> Best regards!
>
> Chris Reyher
> Jim Thompson
> LiteZupp Industries, LLC
> 214-202-0244

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Mon Nov  1 14:26:51 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 14:26:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder haed swap
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w385812B825154A928F7230F7480@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E38E008EB4304D96B228D461CCC4CAB2@HOMEBREW1>

	John:

	There is more to this than the CR. The later TR6 heads, for
example, have markedly superior ports to the earlier TR6/TR250 design.
In addition, the later heads have a smaller exhaust valve that actually
flows better than the earlier larger valve because the valve is not
shrouded by the combustion chamber wall. The PI cars got the better port
design all along, but North America for some reason got badly strangled
smog heads instead. Only later as the CR continued to fall did Triumph
give us the good port design in order to make up for the niggardly 7.5:1
compression ratio.

	Lastly, the later TR6 manifold flows much better than the
earlier "square" manifold. Once again this was done so that the
miserable performance of a desmogged ("castrated" is a more descriptive
term) engine could be offset.

	If you want performance, you are much better off using the late
TR6 head and manifold, and milling the head to raise the compression to
9.5:1 or 10:1. This will require approximately 0.125" to be removed from
the head. 

	The earlier head designs give up too much in terms of flow to be
considered, IMHO.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Johnson
Sent: Sunday, October 31, 2010 5:35 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder haed swap


Hi all,
         I am dropping a 1972 TR6 engine in my GT6 and had a quick
question
regarding combustion chamber size and compression ratio. Because of
extreme
hood clearance issues on the GT6 I want to use the shorter 1972 GT6 head
that
I have on the engine to give me additional hood clearance. I know the
combustion chamber is smaller on the GT6 head but the ports are the
same. Has
anyone made this switch on their TR6 or seen a chart that would give me
an
idea on compression ratio before I cc the heads? Thanks!

                                               John Johnson
                                              Columbus, Ohio

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Nov  2 15:32:04 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 18:32:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
In-Reply-To: <EF5B30293E5E4985A440F0720E148A08@p4home>
References: <EF5B30293E5E4985A440F0720E148A08@p4home>
Message-ID: <201011021832.05507.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday, November 01, 2010 07:08:53 am John Cyganowski wrote:
> Hi All-
> 
> I would like to ask the list for frame rehabilitation advice. What things
> should be done, what things are nice to do? Any one that has been there
> before or sombody that just wants to opine, please chime in.
> 
> I have an 1970 vintage frame. The rack mount tack welds are cracked. No
> reinforcing on the front lower A arm mounts. Only 1 reimfocement on the
> rear lower A arm mount. Cracked right diff mount.
> 
> Sorry a Ratco frame is not an option for me. I have seen diff bridge
> reinforements. Are this a good thing / necessary?
> 
> Thanks,
> John Cyg
John,

First get all the cracks fixes with new welds.

2nd, go to TRF and get their front suspension reinforcing kits +  the pattern 
for boxing in the differential mounts.

Others on the 6-pack forum have added extra metal to the rear part of the 
frame where the cross member that holds the rear suspension.

Also Ted at TSI sells a kit to add extra reinforcement to the entire rear 
suspension part of the frame most importantly the springs and differential.

I myself did the boxing in of the differentials, added Ted's kit and also 
large washers were welded to where the 4 differential studs are welded to the 
frame.

I left the front pretty much alone but did add extra metal welds to parts of 
the frame where the suspension and steering attach.

I also added angle metal welded to the inside of the frame where the rear 
suspension attaches.

I think if you go on the 6-pack forum and do some searches you will see a 
bunch of photos of the frame work that has been done by the members.

Bob

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  2 16:38:34 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 19:38:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
Message-ID: <DA1C05520D704005873FD09A904B1402@JaneShawPC>

Do it frame off body, not frame on.

Sandblast frame and inspect with a magnifying glass. Determine weak spots and
have a welder at your side. Frame kits are useful (Brit sources are better
than US, e.g. RIMMER etc.) Under T-shirt an issue. Tony Vigliotti (RATCO) will
be the first to agree that re-doing your old frame is the least expensive.
Cracks in shock towers can be an issue. My bids were in the $1800 range for a
welding refurb, even with kits. Yours may be much less, but it requires
expertise.

Jerry Shaw http://www.triumphowners.com/977



Date: Mon, 1 Nov 2010 07:08:53 -0400
From: "John Cyganowski" <janah at att.net>
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <EF5B30293E5E4985A440F0720E148A08 at p4home>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
reply-type=original

Hi All-

I would like to ask the list for frame rehabilitation advice. What things
should be done, what things are nice to do? Any one that has been there
before or sombody that just wants to opine, please chime in.

I have an 1970 vintage frame. The rack mount tack welds are cracked. No
reinforcing on the front lower A arm mounts. Only 1 reimfocement on the rear
lower A arm mount. Cracked right diff mount.

Sorry a Ratco frame is not an option for me. I have seen diff bridge
reinforements. Are this a good thing / necessary?

Thanks,
John Cyg

From pebarnes71 at gmail.com  Tue Nov  2 17:30:23 2010
From: pebarnes71 at gmail.com (Philip Barnes)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 08:30:23 +0800
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
In-Reply-To: <DA1C05520D704005873FD09A904B1402@JaneShawPC>
References: <DA1C05520D704005873FD09A904B1402@JaneShawPC>
Message-ID: <AANLkTim0hcuTOVSCf9t2+xM+sy7GTJmAEbVtuEyN9POW@mail.gmail.com>

All this talk about frame welding should come with some caution. It's
important to remember that the frames are old and certainly thinner than
when new. The areas that show cracks are already stressed and grinding down
to good metal for weld prep won't help. Make your patches generously sized
and keep the heat down.

--Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Tue Nov  2 17:57:03 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Tue, 2 Nov 2010 20:57:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim0hcuTOVSCf9t2+xM+sy7GTJmAEbVtuEyN9POW@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DA1C05520D704005873FD09A904B1402@JaneShawPC>
	<AANLkTim0hcuTOVSCf9t2+xM+sy7GTJmAEbVtuEyN9POW@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50FA22C770944C22A456B27028004CB4@JaneShawPC>

Did I forget to say it requires expertise? As you saw if you looked at my
website, I went with Ratco. The original frame is bent sheet metal.
From: Philip Barnes
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:30 PM
To: Jerry C Shaw
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net ; janah at att.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice

All this talk about frame welding should come with some caution. It's
important to remember that the frames are old and certainly thinner than when
new. The areas that show cracks are already stressed and grinding down to good
metal for weld prep won't help. Make your patches generously sized and keep
the heat down.

--Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Wed Nov  3 06:24:57 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 3 Nov 2010 09:24:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTim0hcuTOVSCf9t2+xM+sy7GTJmAEbVtuEyN9POW@mail.gmail.com>
References: <DA1C05520D704005873FD09A904B1402@JaneShawPC>
	<AANLkTim0hcuTOVSCf9t2+xM+sy7GTJmAEbVtuEyN9POW@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601cb7b5a$82c012d0$88403870$@net>

John
After you get all of this done AND KEEP THE FRAME STRAIGHT.
You have a good chance of buying a new one. 
Good luck Craig  


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Philip Barnes
Sent: Tuesday, November 02, 2010 8:30 PM
To: Jerry C Shaw
Cc: janah at att.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice

All this talk about frame welding should come with some caution. It's
important to remember that the frames are old and certainly thinner than
when new. The areas that show cracks are already stressed and grinding down
to good metal for weld prep won't help. Make your patches generously sized
and keep the heat down.

--Phil Barnes, '71 TR6 since 1977
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wensley_tr at comcast.net

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Thu Nov  4 08:28:12 2010
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Thu, 4 Nov 2010 08:28:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rehab Advice
Message-ID: <832249.41924.qm@web65616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I would think bringing your 1970 frame up to CF series frame specs is a good
starting point for your work plan.  I didn't do a frame-off, and, consequently
ended up doing a series of as-required/as able frame repairs (4 jobs to
date).   
Not the best way to go.

Admittedly a frame-off requires more space,
labour and know-how, but if you've 
got the engine and tranny out, you're a
decent ways there.   Are you part of a 
club?  Club mates can be rounded up to
help with the bigger jobs.   Somebody 
will have been there, done that.

Does
your frame have any creases or damage from previous accidents?   The 
stresses
of these can sometimes take years to completely reveal themselves.

Bruce
Simms
73

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Nov  7 07:35:39 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 7 Nov 2010 09:35:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Dads wish list
Message-ID: <BLU156-w11683C5B50ED6216D873ACBA4E0@phx.gbl>

Here, you will no longer have to ask "what do you want"? :).  I put together a
list of safety equipment I will need to be able to go road racing. So when you
are wondering what dad needs for what ever gift giving holiday comes up in the
future (probably long term future) a small gift certificate to Summit Racing
that I could apply towards the list would be perfect.

Dad

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/pdf]

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Nov  8 07:28:53 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 8 Nov 2010 09:28:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Dads wish list
In-Reply-To: <BLU156-w11683C5B50ED6216D873ACBA4E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU156-w11683C5B50ED6216D873ACBA4E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1011080925070.28264@isis.mit.edu>

On Sun, 7 Nov 2010, marty sukey wrote:

> Here, you will no longer have to ask "what do you want"? :).  I put together a
> list of safety equipment I will need to be able to go road racing. So when you
> are wondering what dad needs for what ever gift giving holiday comes up in the
> future (probably long term future) a small gift certificate to Summit Racing
> that I could apply towards the list would be perfect.

It doesn't work. I tried.

Apparently, logic and your actual needs are not the thrust of the 
question.

It's kind of like the question: "what do YOU want to do this weekend?" and 
you answer "I intend to race/fish/loaf on coach/whatever" the retort is 
"well, YOUR Aunt will be XX years old this weekend, don't you think we 
should taker her out SUN afternoon?."

I dont really think "you" in these cases is really the literal.

> Dad

Yours in sarcasm.
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From mcmeganutt at aol.com  Tue Nov  9 09:06:26 2010
From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 9 Nov 2010 11:06:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] 74 TR6 For Sale
Message-ID: <8CD4E3F324ACC62-EF4-8F2@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com>

Hi, Passing this for sale request on, car is in Bolton,CT. NFI. Fred

I have a 1974 TR-6 brown in color. It is in very good cond. Runs very well and
has approximately 75,000 org. miles. I have rebuilt the trans., new rear
brakes, new clutch, master cyl. for both the clutch and brakes, new
alternator, belts, & hoses. I want $7,000 for the car (I have about $7,500+
into it)
If you have any other questions feel free to give me a call, Call Tim at
860-659-9645 or email at twhite at gmail.com

From john70350 at msn.com  Wed Nov 10 17:12:27 2010
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Thu, 11 Nov 2010 00:12:27 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Crankcase ventalation & Oil leaks
Message-ID: <BLU151-w602C861A3D0F540EEAFA0AF7320@phx.gbl>

I'm wondering if anyone has any crankcase ventilation or oil separator
solutions that they have had success with on their TR's. If anyone has any
solutions that have worked for them, I'd love to hear them, I have seen quite
a few different systems and would appreciate any feedback regarding personal
experience with what worked for you with your high compression engine. These
things tend to leak enough when stock.


                                                            Thanks,
                                                              John

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed Nov 10 18:30:47 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 20:30:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crankcase ventalation & Oil leaks and Kas' New Book.
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w602C861A3D0F540EEAFA0AF7320@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w602C861A3D0F540EEAFA0AF7320@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8CD4F57336E8224-224C-50ED@webmail-d029.sysops.aol.com>

 6 pack list

For over 10 years I have used a system that gives me negative pressure in the
crankcase. It is an old stock car/drag strip trick.  It allegedly provides
better ring sealing, too.

Moroso, Summit, etc. sell the kit.   A little drill and weld in the end of the
header, add tube to engine and you have a system that gives you negative
pressure courtesy of Bernoulli.

Kit is threaded tube cut at an angle and a backfire valve....in fact two of
each for a v-8 engine.

pictures somewhere in    photobucket.com/ambro   on my TR4 engine. Extremely
effective.

I went from a drip dry chassis after a racing weekend to just a dry chassis.

Kas is also devoting an entire chapter in his new book "KASTNER's TRIUMPHS" on
engine oil leaks. The book is being printed literally as we 'speak'. Kas is
taking pre-orders on his website
kaskastner.com       ask him to personalize it.

He will have the books Sunday afternoon....2,000 OF THEM. It also includes a
DVD of pictures in addition to the ones in the book.

Joe A.










-----Original Message-----
From: John Johnson <john70350 at msn.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, Nov 10, 2010 6:12 pm
Subject: [6pack] Crankcase ventalation & Oil leaks


I'm wondering if anyone has any crankcase ventilation or oil separator

solutions that they have had success with on their TR's. If anyone has any

solutions that have worked for them, I'd love to hear them, I have seen quite

a few different systems and would appreciate any feedback regarding personal

experience with what worked for you with your high compression engine. These

things tend to leak enough when stock.





                                                            Thanks,

                                                              John

_______________________________________________



6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Wed Nov 10 18:32:11 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 17:32:11 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Crankcase ventalation & Oil leaks
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w602C861A3D0F540EEAFA0AF7320@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <85DCBEF280FD40DE898000D308E4C257@HOMEBREW1>

	John:

	Using the factory solution here. Vent the crankcase into the
emissions port on the Zeniths. Works great, neat and tidy, and lower
emissions to boot. I feel all green just thinking about it.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, November 10, 2010 4:12 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Crankcase ventalation & Oil leaks


I'm wondering if anyone has any crankcase ventilation or oil separator
solutions that they have had success with on their TR's. If anyone has
any
solutions that have worked for them, I'd love to hear them, I have seen
quite
a few different systems and would appreciate any feedback regarding
personal
experience with what worked for you with your high compression engine.
These
things tend to leak enough when stock.


                                                            Thanks,
                                                              John

From ikorey at comcast.net  Wed Nov 10 19:24:37 2010
From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 10 Nov 2010 20:24:37 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Crankcase ventalation & Oil leaks
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w602C861A3D0F540EEAFA0AF7320@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w602C861A3D0F540EEAFA0AF7320@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTintO6DLDw+reFAWSGqhTuSkVDUiS+Bn6gzs1T3u@mail.gmail.com>

Richard Good's PCV valve kit worked great for me.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

On Wed, Nov 10, 2010 at 6:12 PM, John Johnson <john70350 at msn.com> wrote:

> I'm wondering if anyone has any crankcase ventilation or oil separator
> solutions that they have had success with on their TR's. If anyone has any
> solutions that have worked for them, I'd love to hear them, I have seen
> quite
> a few different systems and would appreciate any feedback regarding
> personal
> experience with what worked for you with your high compression engine.
> These
> things tend to leak enough when stock.

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 12 10:20:48 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:20:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <723769.85715.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://sites.google.com/site/6zimkd86un/susf4t

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 12 10:21:04 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 09:21:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <960021.21496.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://sites.google.com/site/fmadvmadbmaaa/kgka7l

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 12 14:34:44 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 13:34:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <422648.64785.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://sites.google.com/site/fhsjhfjshgsgww/xaxd8j

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Nov 12 14:34:59 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2010 13:34:59 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <952769.77408.qm@web51905.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://sites.google.com/site/fbkbskbsbsaaa/jsgk7v

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 15 11:23:16 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 10:23:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <715275.37356.qm@web51902.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://telecuidado.com/here.php

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 15 11:22:55 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 10:22:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <356878.91033.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://kristianleschner.com/here.php

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Mon Nov 15 12:23:37 2010
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 13:23:37 -0600
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails?
Message-ID: <EDB6C525A9C8497F8F78AD4ACFEA8BEF@Dell320>

What are all these emails about?

They're coming from johnehorton at yahoo.com

I've already received about a half dozen or more with no subject
and a link to someplace I don't want to open without knowing what
it is.

Is it a virus?

From dave at ranteer.com  Mon Nov 15 13:03:44 2010
From: dave at ranteer.com (dave)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 14:03:44 -0600
Subject: [6pack] prop shaft removal
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS37C7BCE1A65733659937CF48D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E26DB727FD2A4E34B70DDDBA3C12F242@ranteer.local>

?hi, all.

getting some serious vibration that stops as soon as I remove my foot from 
the accelerator.

thinking it might be the prop shaft.

I want to ask this before I start:

the exhaust header is attached correctly; unfortunately an overzealous 
muffler guy welded the rest of the system together (in other words, the 
joint between the exhaust and the header is fitted; the rest of the joints 
behind that are welded).  it's a 72 with the 2 pipe system.

does the exhaust have to be removed to remove the prop shaft? 

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Nov 15 17:36:08 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 19:36:08 -0500
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails?
References: <EDB6C525A9C8497F8F78AD4ACFEA8BEF@Dell320>
Message-ID: <2AD6B69C49314F0FAF193B8E09F130CD@Alan>

Block the sender.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart Thompson" <stuartt at tlthompson.com>
To: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 2:23 PM
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails?


> What are all these emails about?
>
> They're coming from johnehorton at yahoo.com
>
> I've already received about a half dozen or more with no subject
> and a link to someplace I don't want to open without knowing what
> it is.
>
> Is it a virus?
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Nov 15 17:48:52 2010
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 19:48:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Bumpers
Message-ID: <4CE1D4F4.2000506@maine.rr.com>

Hey Folks!

Anyone ever purchased polished stainless steel bumpers from the 
Harrington Group?

*http://tinyurl.com/36896uf

*Is polished stainless in your opinion better than original chrome or 
"just not the same?"

Thanks for any insights.....

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six*
*

From bratt at sasktel.net  Mon Nov 15 21:09:40 2010
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Mon, 15 Nov 2010 22:09:40 -0600
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails?
In-Reply-To: <2AD6B69C49314F0FAF193B8E09F130CD@Alan>
References: <EDB6C525A9C8497F8F78AD4ACFEA8BEF@Dell320>
	<2AD6B69C49314F0FAF193B8E09F130CD@Alan>
Message-ID: <1289880580.1244.6.camel@ed-desktop>

Al:

Speaking from experience:  Sometimes the sender of the emails has
hijacked the web address he is using to send spam.  John Horton could be
an innocent victim.


Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan

1976 TR6

On Mon, 2010-11-15 at 19:36 -0500, Al Salvatore wrote:
> Block the sender.

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Nov 15 22:59:08 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 05:59:08 GMT
Subject: [6pack] prop shaft removal
Message-ID: <COL123-DS1665E4B150B2BE7E5C7A24F4370@phx.gbl>

Dave---It depends on the routing of the exhaust pipes, as to whether you'll have to remove them. Normally, you'll just have to undo the eight bolts that connects the propshaft flanges at both ends. You should be able to slip the unit down and out the front. If your tranny rubber mounts are old and soft, you may have to place a jack under it to raise it a tad.
First, check the two propshaft u-joints to see if there is any slop in them when rotating the shaft back and forth. ANY play here is too much. If in doubt as to whether this is the area of concern, pump a few shots of grease into these two u-joint fittings and test the car. If this (temporarily) stops or softens the vibration, you're in the right place.
Finally, propshaft u-joints usually telegraph their wear thru vibration in the gearshift lever and down in the pedal box floor pan.

Dick

From lfm614 at aol.com  Tue Nov 16 06:22:47 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 13:22:47 +0000
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails?
Message-ID: <972440740-1289913552-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2067651166-@bda586.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I doubt it from the emails we traded but still need to block it, he'll probably get another. 


------Original Message------
From: Ed Bratt
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Al Salvatore
Cc: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] John Horton emails?
Sent: Nov 15, 2010 10:09 PM

Al:

Speaking from experience:  Sometimes the sender of the emails has
hijacked the web address he is using to send spam.  John Horton could be
an innocent victim.


Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan

1976 TR6

On Mon, 2010-11-15 at 19:36 -0500, Al Salvatore wrote:
> Block the sender.
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Nov 16 06:37:08 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 08:37:08 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Bumpers
In-Reply-To: <4CE1D4F4.2000506@maine.rr.com>
References: <4CE1D4F4.2000506@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <9C8A80AC2E2841549A143E88E92DCEA5@laptopPC>

Someone in the 6-Pack Forum bought them and posted very favorable reviews.

Bob

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Friedlander
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 7:48 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Bumpers

Hey Folks!

Anyone ever purchased polished stainless steel bumpers from the
Harrington Group?

*http://tinyurl.com/36896uf

*Is polished stainless in your opinion better than original chrome or
"just not the same?"

Thanks for any insights.....

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six*
*
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From lfm614 at aol.com  Tue Nov 16 06:45:43 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 13:45:43 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Bumpers
Message-ID: <1397085752-1289914928-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1807316503-@bda586.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Yes, should search 6PACK. Few reviews and pictures on there. 

Lou 
------Original Message------
From: Bob Danielson
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: forzion at maine.rr.com
To: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Bumpers
Sent: Nov 16, 2010 7:37 AM

Someone in the 6-Pack Forum bought them and posted very favorable reviews.

Bob

-----Original Message----- 
From: David Friedlander
Sent: Monday, November 15, 2010 7:48 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Bumpers

Hey Folks!

Anyone ever purchased polished stainless steel bumpers from the
Harrington Group?

*http://tinyurl.com/36896uf

*Is polished stainless in your opinion better than original chrome or
"just not the same?"

Thanks for any insights.....

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six*
*
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
_______________________________________________

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Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 16 07:43:51 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 06:43:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <753745.34308.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://cardiologiedz.110mb.com/here.php

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 16 07:44:11 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 06:44:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <864676.52551.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://aliancadaterra.org.br/here.php

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Tue Nov 16 09:28:42 2010
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 08:28:42 -0800
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails
Message-ID: <4CE2B13A.2090806@sri.com>

I just heard back from John and, not surprisingly, he doesn't know where 
these messages come from.

Just a guess, but maybe someone's personal archive of 6-pack emails got 
hacked/stolen.  That would explain the recent unsolicited Canadian 
parts-supplier emails as well as this latest scam.

I wish I had a good solution....

Cregg

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 16 09:46:50 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 08:46:50 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <812532.22957.qm@web51904.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://www.reparacionesjm.com/here.php

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Tue Nov 16 09:47:05 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 08:47:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <267161.34303.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

http://ritmiedanzedalmondo.it/here.php

From triosan at gmail.com  Tue Nov 16 10:34:49 2010
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 17:34:49 +0000
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails
In-Reply-To: <4CE2B13A.2090806@sri.com>
References: <4CE2B13A.2090806@sri.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTikhtR__nOOUaKaJgKjY5+jDBCCvtm0FOrUsv9E7@mail.gmail.com>

My guess is John has a virus that has taken overr his computer and is
sending crap.  Note the addresses these come from varies everytime.

On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 4:28 PM, Cregg Cowan <cregg.cowan at sri.com> wrote:

> I just heard back from John and, not surprisingly, he doesn't know where
> these messages come from.
>
> Just a guess, but maybe someone's personal archive of 6-pack emails got
> hacked/stolen.  That would explain the recent unsolicited Canadian
> parts-supplier emails as well as this latest scam.
>
> I wish I had a good solution....
>
> Cregg
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/triosan at gmail.com
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Nov 16 11:53:50 2010
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 11:53:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTikhtR__nOOUaKaJgKjY5+jDBCCvtm0FOrUsv9E7@mail.gmail.com>
References: <4CE2B13A.2090806@sri.com>
	<AANLkTikhtR__nOOUaKaJgKjY5+jDBCCvtm0FOrUsv9E7@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <59E21109-66AC-43D4-8F4B-34E81101ED6D@comcast.net>

Ah ha, so that's why my computer isn't "learning" to automatically put  
them in the junk file after I've done it manually a few times.
Thanks.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net




On Nov 16, 2010, at 10:34 AM, Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley wrote:

> Note the addresses these come from varies everytime.

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Tue Nov 16 13:08:58 2010
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Tue, 16 Nov 2010 13:08:58 -0700
Subject: [6pack] John Horton emails
In-Reply-To: <59E21109-66AC-43D4-8F4B-34E81101ED6D@comcast.net>
References: <4CE2B13A.2090806@sri.com>
	<AANLkTikhtR__nOOUaKaJgKjY5+jDBCCvtm0FOrUsv9E7@mail.gmail.com>
	<59E21109-66AC-43D4-8F4B-34E81101ED6D@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimpEq9DQUwyb7cwRgsqSTXfGfBMNyhn6TwqekwX@mail.gmail.com>

gmail has been throwing his emails into my spam folder for a while now.

On Tue, Nov 16, 2010 at 11:53 AM, Bud Rolofson <levilevi at comcast.net> wrote:
> Ah ha, so that's why my computer isn't "learning" to automatically put them
> in the junk file after I've done it manually a few times.
> Thanks.
>
>
> Bud Rolofson

From john70350 at msn.com  Wed Nov 17 18:44:11 2010
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 01:44:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel question
Message-ID: <BLU151-w550765ACCB11802E14685EF7390@phx.gbl>

I'm doing an engine swap in my Triumph and have a flywheel question.
Installing a 1973 TR6 engine in a GT6 and was wondering if anyone had used the
lighter GT6 flywheel on their TR6? The TR6 flywheel is much heavier and
thicker. Any ideas would be appreciated. email me at john70350 at msn.com if you
have any ideas, thanks.


                                                John Johnson
                                               Columbus, Ohio

From j.honor at comcast.net  Wed Nov 17 19:26:04 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Wed, 17 Nov 2010 20:26:04 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel question
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w550765ACCB11802E14685EF7390@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU151-w550765ACCB11802E14685EF7390@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <9DEC8605-6FDD-40F1-A0E4-BF3E2B1F9061@comcast.net>

Though I am not familiar with the gt6 weight etc I did swap a 14# aluminum
flywheel in my 74 tr6 with very positive noticeable performance 3 years ago
along with new clutch quicker response so seems worthwhile for your issue
Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Nov 17, 2010, at 7:44 PM, John Johnson <john70350 at msn.com> wrote:

> I'm doing an engine swap in my Triumph and have a flywheel question.
> Installing a 1973 TR6 engine in a GT6 and was wondering if anyone had used
the
> lighter GT6 flywheel on their TR6? The TR6 flywheel is much heavier and
> thicker. Any ideas would be appreciated. email me at john70350 at msn.com if
you
> have any ideas, thanks.
>
>
>                                                John Johnson
>                                               Columbus, Ohio
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Thu Nov 18 10:04:19 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 09:04:19 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel question
In-Reply-To: <BLU151-w550765ACCB11802E14685EF7390@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7234F75E7BE84CEB882F8C3F80BA728E@HOMEBREW1>

	John:

	I had my original TR6 flywheel lightened by almost 10 lbs when I
rebuilt my motor. No regrets at all. If the GT6 flywheel is a drop in
replacement, go for it. If there are any issues that prevent it from
being a direct swap (or as the English would say, a direct swop) then by
all means have your TR6 flywheel lightened.

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Johnson
Sent: Wednesday, November 17, 2010 5:44 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel question


I'm doing an engine swap in my Triumph and have a flywheel question.
Installing a 1973 TR6 engine in a GT6 and was wondering if anyone had
used the
lighter GT6 flywheel on their TR6? The TR6 flywheel is much heavier and
thicker. Any ideas would be appreciated. email me at john70350 at msn.com
if you
have any ideas, thanks.


                                                John Johnson
                                               Columbus, Ohio

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Thu Nov 18 16:12:32 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Thu, 18 Nov 2010 18:12:32 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of flywheels
Message-ID: <7F76DD81-D174-4698-9F69-07D375CCF704@nc.rr.com>

A while back my engine wouldn't crank, jammed hard; but everything from the
clutch back was nice and free. I thought perhaps the backup bolt I installed
on the throwout bearing fork had lost its nut and jammed the ring gear
(perhaps due to stupidly re-using a nylock nut or somesuch). Nope, wasn't
that. Two of the three small alignment pegs for the flywheel/pressure-plate
interface came out, and one jammed between the ring gear and the case (no
damage, just a few light scratches on the case, but the pegs are obviously
toast). All the bolts were fully tight, and I re-torqued 'em with no
movement.
Two questions:
1. What would cause these to pop out?
2. Are they really necessary for operation, or are they just for installation
alignment?
Okay, three ... three questions:
3. Did I screw up somewhere?

Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx-UO

From apackard68 at att.net  Fri Nov 19 12:34:33 2010
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 11:34:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Is anyone around to look at a car in Conroe, TX?
Message-ID: <213174.42740.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

There is a GT6+ on ebay that looks reasonable (item #180588263604, but you
never 
can tell without actually seeing the car. Is anyone in North Houston
area that 
would be willing to take a look at it for me?  If I won the
auction, I would fly 
to Houston and drive it back to SF, so I'm concerned
about it's condition to be 
able to do this drive.

Thanks in advance for
anyone available to help.

Andy Packard
925 577-7704

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Fri Nov 19 13:24:24 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 15:24:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] anyone around to look at a car in Conroe,
 TX?  NOW LAGUNA SECA  and KAS
In-Reply-To: <213174.42740.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <213174.42740.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CD563EE3FF5256-2020-8726@webmail-m096.sysops.aol.com>

 Andy,  and 6 Pack

A couple of heads up:

We ( FOT) are going to be the featured marque at Laguna Seca next June 7-8
2011 with HMSA as sanctioning body.  This will be the 9th in the ongoing
Kastner Cub Series.

We will want to have as many TR guys there in attendance as possible. More
info will be forthcoming.




Kas now has his new book in stock. About 1/4th of the book relates to the GT6
and other six cylinder Triumphs.   You can get them direct from Kas on his
website.   KASKASTNER.COM

Joe A.












-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Packard <apackard68 at att.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, Nov 19, 2010 1:34 pm
Subject: [6pack] Is anyone around to look at a car in Conroe, TX?


There is a GT6+ on ebay that looks reasonable (item #180588263604, but you

never

can tell without actually seeing the car. Is anyone in North Houston

area that

would be willing to take a look at it for me?  If I won the

auction, I would fly

to Houston and drive it back to SF, so I'm concerned

about it's condition to be

able to do this drive.



Thanks in advance for

anyone available to help.



Andy Packard

925 577-7704

_______________________________________________



6pack at autox.team.net

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html

Archive: http://www.team.net/archive

Forums: http://www.team.net/forums

Unsubscribe/Manage:
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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Nov 19 14:02:16 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 19 Nov 2010 21:02:16 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of flywheels
Message-ID: <COL123-DS3A4CFF0F8DBE6C2E4220DF43A0@phx.gbl>

Doug---The three pins are for aligning the clutch, but ordinarily don't need to be removed after doing so. They should be in the flywheel tight enough to hold fast. You should find the new pins very tight, unless the flywheel holes have opened up for some reason. The clamping pressure of the six clutch-to-flywheel bolts should relieve the pins from doing any holding work.
Of course the clutch alignment tool should slip in and out easily after the clutch bolts are tightened.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas Morris
Sent: Thursday, November 18, 2010 3:12 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of flywheels

A while back my engine wouldn't crank, jammed hard; but everything from the
clutch back was nice and free. I thought perhaps the backup bolt I installed
on the throwout bearing fork had lost its nut and jammed the ring gear
(perhaps due to stupidly re-using a nylock nut or somesuch). Nope, wasn't
that. Two of the three small alignment pegs for the flywheel/pressure-plate
interface came out, and one jammed between the ring gear and the case (no
damage, just a few light scratches on the case, but the pegs are obviously
toast). All the bolts were fully tight, and I re-torqued 'em with no
movement.
Two questions:
1. What would cause these to pop out?
2. Are they really necessary for operation, or are they just for installation
alignment?
Okay, three ... three questions:
3. Did I screw up somewhere?

Doug Morris, NC, '74 TR-6 CF-18xxx-UO
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Nov 13 08:33:54 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 13 Nov 2010 07:33:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Hacked
Message-ID: <466522.38803.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I must appologise to you all.  It seems that my personal computer was hacked and 
my address book was stolen by the Canidian pharmacy.  Iam taking steps to make 
sure this does not happen again.

Very sorry folks.  John Horton

From pim.alferink at gmail.com  Fri Nov 26 12:28:02 2010
From: pim.alferink at gmail.com (Pim Alferink)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 20:28:02 +0100
Subject: [6pack] diff seals
Message-ID: <AANLkTinBAJ_P-Pm6EgOhZ-dF7PMAoiO-c3HPhM1Zxq7u@mail.gmail.com>

Dear listers,
While prepping the car for a new paint job, I noticed that one of my diff
seals is leaking......again.
In the 14 years that I have the car (doing about 5000 miles/year) this must
be the 3rd time I have to change the seals.
Does anyone know of a higher quality drop in replacement seal? Or is this
just bad luck?

Pim   Pimento '73

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Nov 26 14:18:10 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 26 Nov 2010 21:18:10 GMT
Subject: [6pack] diff seals
Message-ID: <COL123-DS181FAEA15FAEBD71931182F4210@phx.gbl>

Pim---A few things to check when/if doing this chore again...Take a look at the area where these seals do their work. For them to seal properly, the mating areas need to be free of the grooves that can wear in where the seal lips make contact. Sometimes the seal can be moved up or down the shaft a 1/16" or so to expose a new area.
The bearings also need to be in good shape to keep these shafts from "moving away" from the points of seal contact. (Same goes for crankshaft seals).
There can be some marginal benefit from shortening the spring contained in some of these seals. This can be done by cutting the spring a half inch or so, then twisting the spring back together. Supposedly giving a better clamp to the shaft.
Rarely, but possible, the case vent can get plugged. Check out this small hole to be sure no pressure can build up inside. You should see a small cotter pin in this vent hole at the top of the case.
Finally, I don't know the extent of the leaks you are finding. Know it's very difficult to keep these units totally leak-free, esp. at the pinion shaft/flange.  
One other solution is to go to the Infiniti limited $lip differential. Never heard of one of these leaking!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Pim Alferink
Sent: Friday, November 26, 2010 11:28 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] diff seals

Dear listers,
While prepping the car for a new paint job, I noticed that one of my diff
seals is leaking......again.
In the 14 years that I have the car (doing about 5000 miles/year) this must
be the 3rd time I have to change the seals.
Does anyone know of a higher quality drop in replacement seal? Or is this
just bad luck?

Pim   Pimento '73
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From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Sun Nov 28 05:00:30 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Sun, 28 Nov 2010 12:00:30 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Need red reflector lens for stop/tail lens
Message-ID: <BLU120-W70798FFF07161EB28CC258E230@phx.gbl>

Hey all,
I've lost the red rectangle lens that covers the reflector on the stop/tail
lamp. I know from experience that either side will fit. Does anybody have an
otherwise broken stop/tail lens with the little snap on reflector lens intact?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Nov 30 13:40:58 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 30 Nov 2010 20:40:58 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Crankcase ventalation & Oil leaks
Message-ID: <COL123-DS125D3D091157CC03A1C78BF4250@phx.gbl>

John---The original system of venting the crankcase into the ZS carbs works well enough for engines that do not have excessive blowby. If you no longer have the ZS' and have the SU, there is a port on them, intended to give vacuum advance, that can provide a connection to the engine. It's just a matter of rigging tubing between the two.
I've not found it really necessary to use vacuum to vent the engine. It's combustion pressure we're dealing with, so any decent means of letting it out (without going thru the seals!) should work.
I will admit to fudging here a bit, as I have both the valve cover port venting into the air filter housing (but not thru the filter itself) as well as a tube running from the original fuel pump opening blanking plate to the SU vacuum port. Between the two, there is no crankcase pressure buildup. (I have connected pressure gauges in key spots to monitor this under full boost).

Then there is the Goodparts system that should work well. Looks pretty trick!

Dick