From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Sat May  1 18:16:32 2010
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 17:16:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Hi Team,

I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
a good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
recommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
appreciated.

Thanks in advance for any assistance.

Robert Rudolphi 
1974 TR6

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat May  1 19:45:58 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 01 May 2010 21:45:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net>
	<18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>

ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS!

I had one rebuilt for one race TR4 and need my TR3A done...and will have Jeff
do it.

advancedistributors.com










-----Original Message-----
From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 7:16 pm
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt


Hi Team,
I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
 good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
ecommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
ppreciated.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Robert Rudolphi
974 TR6
______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sat May  1 21:11:48 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sat, 1 May 2010 23:11:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Transmission internal pressure question
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Here is a new one for me:

Is a TR6 j-type tranmission supposed to have venting, or internal pressure?

I have a newly re-built j-type overdrive transmission on my 72 TR6. During
last season, I noticed that I had leaking oil dripping on the exhaust pipe
under the overdrive. I had thought it was a valve cover leak, but apparently
not. I have the cover off the transmission to deal with a u-joint replacement
(as well as nasty attack of Shipwright's Disease). So I took the car out for a
spin. Enjoyed the clouds of smoke from the POR burning off the header
extension pipe and then headed back home. I see now that the transmission is
weeping oil from the seals around the shifting rods which is then dribbling
down the side of the transmission and dripping on the pipe. It's not pouring,
but last year I was getting puddles under the car. I took a closer look after
the run and  I also see a oil bubbling from one of the gear detector switches
on top of the transmission case. To my mind bubbling = pressure. I don't think
just internal splashing would put out the amount of oil I have seen leaking
down the side of the unit.

I think the fellow who rebuilt the transmission and put in the nice unit from
Laycock Rebuilders used 80w90 gear oil. This I have been told is a no-no. I
have consequently refilled the unit with Valvoline 20w50 racing motor oil. If
it stops raining I will give it a run again and see if the problem is gone.

Is there a vent hole in the transmission somewhere that might be blocked up? I
don't recall on on the TR6 unit, but then I know the A-type better than the
J.

Certainly I used to use 20w50 in the a-type and did not have this leaking.
(Also had no overdrive due to slipping.)

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May  2 04:45:46 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 06:45:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><18551.8572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>

Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have one 
rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <n197tr4 at cs.com>
Sent: Saturday, May 01, 2010 9:45 PM
To: <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt

> ADVANCE DISTRIBUTORS!
>
> I had one rebuilt for one race TR4 and need my TR3A done...and will have 
> Jeff
> do it.
>
> advancedistributors.com
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: robert rudolphi <robertrudolphi at yahoo.com>
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Sent: Sat, May 1, 2010 7:16 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
>
>
> Hi Team,
> I keep going through rotors like crazy and was thinking it would be
> good idea to have my distributor rebuilt as it has never been done. Any
> ecommendations from the list as to the best person to use would be greatly
> ppreciated.
> Thanks in advance for any assistance.
> Robert Rudolphi
> 974 TR6
> ______________________________________________
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
> orums: http://www.team.net/forums
> nsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From ken at azkiwis.com  Sun May  2 07:33:50 2010
From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 06:33:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Transmission internal pressure question
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31335AF@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <B88D554C03F24C3184E66852E484AC44@AcerPC>

Mark,
I had this happen to me about 10 years ago when the trans and J drive were 
rebuilt.  Mine is a 73, so is probably not much different from yours.

My problem was a v. small vent hole was blocked; so yes, the tranny does 
have a vent hole, and yes, yours is probably blocked.

The bad news... You're going to have to fix it; the good news, it doesn't 
require a tranny removal.

Now, my nomenclature of things is probably wrong, but here goes.

Take the seats out and the tranny tunnel cover off.  The shifter assembly, 
big long thing on top of the tranny is the guy you're after.  I don't 
remember exactly where, so get a light and get looking.  There is a small - 
maybe 14guage wire size, vent hole at the very front of it,  It's just a 
hole, no trim, attachments or what ever to identify it.  I seem to remember 
it's on the top left, maybe about 1 inch in.  Took a while to find it, but I 
did.  Used a small jewellers type screw driver and reamed it open by 
twisting it as I pushed it down.   I put the drivers seat back in loosely 
and went for a drive (bit wierd seeing the road etc down there) until it 
warmed up and I verified there were no other leaks.  Then wiped off the 
excess oil, cleared the hole one more time, and it's been fine for 10 years.

IIRC, I'm using 75-80 or so in it.  I've heard everything from this through 
40wt, 30wt, and synthetic.  I'll do mine to a thinner oil, "one of these 
days", but in the desert it doesn't make much difference.

Hope this helps you a bit

Ken
73 TR6
Sonoran Desert, AZ

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun May  2 09:53:08 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 08:53:08 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><18551.8
	572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
	<3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
Message-ID: <a06240801c8034fc36bbb@[192.168.2.2]>

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics 
Distributor ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ... of course you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by all means use Jeff.


At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>Joe said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have 
>one rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6 CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From janah at att.net  Sun May  2 17:35:52 2010
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 19:35:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
Message-ID: <2019914677AE4D02A8856AF4161133BD@p4home>

<Quote> Any recommendations from the list as to the best person to use would 
be greatly
appreciated.<unQuote>

Jeff at Advanced Distributors has a good reputation. However, I think it it 
too much to say that Advanced Distributors is the"only" place where you can 
get a quality rebuild.

I had Bob Sarama do mine. and I am very happy with his efforts.

John Cyg 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun May  2 17:47:19 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 23:47:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <2019914677AE4D02A8856AF4161133BD@p4home>
References: <2019914677AE4D02A8856AF4161133BD@p4home>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50B7BD0@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Agreed John, Bob did a couple for me also and did a fine job.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Cyganowski
Sent: Sunday, May 02, 2010 7:36 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt

<Quote> Any recommendations from the list as to the best person to use would
be greatly appreciated.<unQuote>

Jeff at Advanced Distributors has a good reputation. However, I think it it
too much to say that Advanced Distributors is the"only" place where you can
get a quality rebuild.

I had Bob Sarama do mine. and I am very happy with his efforts.

John Cyg
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stan.foster at hp.com

From Timbo00001 at aol.com  Sun May  2 17:56:33 2010
From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 19:56:33 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
Message-ID: <8e05e.7e31990d.390f6b31@aol.com>

What is this "palace" everyone is talking about in the Subject line?   Is 
that something like White Castle?
 
 
In a message dated 5/2/2010 12:10:21 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
anabil007 at comcast.net writes:

OR ...  you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics 
Distributor ...  solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ... of course  you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by all means  use Jeff.


At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>Joe  said it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have 
>one  rebuilt. All the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by  him.
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6  CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>Toyota 5 speed  & Nissan LSD
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>


--  
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people  
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957  TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace,  CA
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:  http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive:  http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:  http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:  
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/timbo00001 at aol.com

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Mon May  3 00:13:30 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 23:13:30 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
Message-ID: <a06240806c80419c5bfe4@[192.168.2.2]>

Nope ... the Pertronics fits into the Lucas body on the engine, 
tachometer stays exactly the same


>  But then you lose the mechanical tachometer, no?  If so, did you convert to
>an electronic one?  I believe Nisonger will convert the mechanical tach to
>an electronic one.  Do any of the other instrument refurbishers provide that
>service?


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From robertrudolphi at yahoo.com  Mon May  3 05:37:39 2010
From: robertrudolphi at yahoo.com (robert rudolphi)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 04:37:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
In-Reply-To: <a06240801c8034fc36bbb@[192.168.2.2]>
References: <30427190.612012.1272679453834.JavaMail.root@vms075.mailsrvcs.net><18551.8
	572.qm@web56201.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<8CCB7B058ABF9F8-13F4-625F@webmail-m080.sysops.aol.com>
	<3064B4216B544321A12124551D1D08F4@BobPC>
	<a06240801c8034fc36bbb@[192.168.2.2]>
Message-ID: <339288.84439.qm@web56208.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Hi Bob,

Would the tach work with the Pertronics unit?  I throught only the
Lucas had the Tach drive.

Thanks,

Robert
To: Bob
Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; robertrudolphi at yahoo.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Sun, May
2, 2010 11:53:08 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor
rebuilt

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics
Distributor ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ...
of course you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by
all means use Jeff.


At 6:45 AM -0400 5/2/10, Bob Danielson wrote:
>Joe said
it all........Jeff at Advance is the "only" place to have 
>one rebuilt. All
the guys in the 6-Pack Forum swear by him.
>
>Bob
>
>Bob Danielson
>1975 TR6
CF38503U
>Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
>Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there
is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Mon May  3 10:56:58 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 3 May 2010 18:56:58 +0200
Subject: [6pack]
	=?utf-8?q?Best_palace_to_have_a_TR6_Distributor_rebuilt?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_IIEAOeI0000009d@www.erp-3.net>

Robert and all,

maybe you've heard about the 123ignition system, a fully electronical ignition system built for many (not only) British cars while retaining the classic look of a distributor.

We've specialized in converting original distributors to 123ignition having the advantage of completely original look paired with the reliability of modern electronics and keeping all mechanical functions (like the tach drive) of the original.

For more info about the 123ignition and an example of a conversion of a Lucas 22D6 distributor have a look at

http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7296

Kind regards

Eric
(Brits'n'Pieces)


bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
Von	robert rudolphi [robertrudolphi at yahoo.com]	
An	Bill[anabil007 at comcast.net]; Bob Danielson[75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com	
CC		
Datum	03.05.2010 13:44:31	
Betreff	Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt	
bbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbbb
Hi Bob,

Would the tach work with the Pertronics unit?  I throught only the
Lucas had the Tach drive.

Thanks,

Robert
To: Bob
Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; robertrudolphi at yahoo.com;
triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; n197tr4 at cs.com
Sent: Sun, May
2, 2010 11:53:08 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor
rebuilt

OR ... you could junk the old one and put in a NEW Pertronics
Distributor ... solves many problems, and really makes the car run 
better ...
of course you lose the "Lucas" look, so if that is 
important to you ... by
all means use Jeff.

From sutherlandha at aol.com  Mon May  3 12:58:15 2010
From: sutherlandha at aol.com (sutherlandha at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 14:58:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] mechanic needed
Message-ID: <8CCB909B8CB4335-1C80-18E6@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com>

 Can anyone recommend a good TR6 mechanic in Alexandria besides Motorhead or
Mountjoys?

From sutherlandha at aol.com  Mon May  3 13:00:34 2010
From: sutherlandha at aol.com (sutherlandha at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 03 May 2010 15:00:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mechanic
Message-ID: <8CCB90A0B7C2C8F-1C80-1984@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com>

 Sorry, I neglected to say need good mechanic in "Alexandria VA"
Thanks,
Hugh Sutherland
Alexandria VA

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Mon May  3 13:07:43 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 15:07:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 103
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1272909602.6099.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1272909602.6099.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <6E591013-3BF6-4177-A16A-8A1B54716954@nc.rr.com>

What else would you call a place that houses the Prince of Darkness?

Doug Morris, NC
'74 TR-6

On May 3, 2010, at 2:00 PM, 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote:

> Date: Sun, 2 May 2010 19:56:33 EDT
> From: Timbo00001 at aol.com
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Best palace to have a TR6 Distributor rebuilt
> 
> What is this "palace" everyone is talking about in the Subject line?   Is 
> that something like White Castle?

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Mon May  3 17:31:33 2010
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Mon, 3 May 2010 19:31:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mechanic
In-Reply-To: <8CCB90A0B7C2C8F-1C80-1984@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCB90A0B7C2C8F-1C80-1984@webmail-d012.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <007601caeb18$c5fbdac0$51f39040$@org>

Hugh,

After some bad experiences with one of the shops you mention, I switched to
Mark Raspi.  He may be a little out of your way, though, since he is up in
Edgewood, Md.  But he does excellent work.. usually going a bit overboard,
and not charging for it.  :)

He's at http://markraspi.com/home.html if you are interested in checking him
out.

For example, I had him replace my manifold gasket.  He cleaned the entire
side of my engine, sparkly clean. And he tuned my car up a bit.  It ran
better than it ever had...  and I cant get it as well tuned since.  :)

- Aldwyn


> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-
> bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of sutherlandha at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 03, 2010 3:01 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Mechanic
> 
>  Sorry, I neglected to say need good mechanic in "Alexandria VA"
> Thanks,
> Hugh Sutherland
> Alexandria VA
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/aldwyn at sylvancircle.org

From aktifspeed at gmail.com  Tue May  4 14:25:48 2010
From: aktifspeed at gmail.com (Erik Sulcs)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 16:25:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mechanic...
In-Reply-To: <o2pf65b42711005041128nc7f1a921l5501202b26c6b75a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <o2pf65b42711005041128nc7f1a921l5501202b26c6b75a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <x2uf65b42711005041325q7f1e1579rebebeae01984d150@mail.gmail.com>

Hugh,

>
> Just like Aldwyn, I've got a great guy in western MD, even though I live in
> Oakton, VA.
> Check out http://www.amprestorations.net/  Andy does fantastic work and is
> worth the drive... My 6 is there right now getting some work done...
>
> Erik

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Tue May  4 18:20:29 2010
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Tue, 4 May 2010 20:20:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] mechanic needed
Message-ID: <380-2201053502029913@earthlink.net>

1:15 west of you, but it's a nice drive toward the end (no offense). Upperville VA, on Route 50. Salt of the earth, but busy. Ask for Paul.

http://www.britishandclassics.com/

All the war-propaganda, all the screaming and lies and hatred, comes invariably from people who are not fighting. 
George Orwell 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  5 07:38:44 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:38:44 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <8CCBA5E83924A6C-1164-82BD@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com><6545291D62F64921AF1FDC100AC1A2CA@trigeni.com>
	<8CCBA5E83924A6C-1164-82BD@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <B87290FA83BE4B19A5B7A4077DEA40DA@ranteer.local>

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/powertwistplus.htm


according to this reviewer, these belts last longer and reduce vibration and 
noise.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed May  5 09:30:35 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 08:30:35 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
In-Reply-To: <B87290FA83BE4B19A5B7A4077DEA40DA@ranteer.local>
References: <116c0.18b45f56.3911e3f8@cs.com><6545291D62F64921AF1FDC100AC1A2CA@trigeni.com>
	<8CCBA5E83924A6C-1164-82BD@webmail-d085.sysops.aol.com>
	<B87290FA83BE4B19A5B7A4077DEA40DA@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569648252@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Oliver:

	The review hints that these belts are intended only for power tool
applications, with constant speeds.

	They are intriguing, but are they recommended for automotive applications as
well? Or perhaps you are suggesting that someone give these a try on their 6?

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 6:39 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; '6 Pack list'
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement

http://www.onlinetoolreviews.com/reviews/powertwistplus.htm


according to this reviewer, these belts last longer and reduce vibration and
noise.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  5 09:53:09 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 5 May 2010 10:53:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Fw: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement
Message-ID: <D7FF21950CE04942AB7ED435D98C3C47@ranteer.local>

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Arakelian, Peter" <arakelianp at mossmotors.com>
Sent: Wednesday, May 05, 2010 10:12 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Fan Belt Replacement

> I have been in contact with Fenner about these previously.
> They do not recommend Power Twist belts for automotive use.  They are
> not strong enough.
> Having said that they may get you out of a bind and may work well for
> quite a while, but we passed.
>
> Peter Arakelian - 71 TR6
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $11.47
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/sumton at sbcglobal.net

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Thu May  6 12:37:45 2010
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 13:37:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
Message-ID: <C052485ADFAC4263BAB151501A868A67@Dell320>

Each time I release the clutch pedal I feel a slight click. What's about to
fail?

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Thu May  6 13:31:26 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 15:31:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
In-Reply-To: <C052485ADFAC4263BAB151501A868A67@Dell320>
References: <C052485ADFAC4263BAB151501A868A67@Dell320>
Message-ID: <001501caed52$c27a3310$476e9930$@net>

Have you ever worked on the clutch?

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stuart Thompson
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 2:38 PM
To: 6 Pack list
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click

Each time I release the clutch pedal I feel a slight click. What's about to
fail?
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wensley_tr at comcast.net

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Thu May  6 13:43:55 2010
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 14:43:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
References: <C052485ADFAC4263BAB151501A868A67@Dell320>
	<001501caed52$c27a3310$476e9930$@net>
Message-ID: <6AC3F553F9B14C9F8921840D50B392AD@Dell320>

Previous owner:  yes

Me:  no although I have worked on a TR6 clutch many years ago.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Craig" <wensley_tr at comcast.net>
To: "'Stuart Thompson'" <stuartt at tlthompson.com>; "'6 Pack list'" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 2:31 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] clutch pedal click


> Have you ever worked on the clutch?
>
> Craig
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Stuart Thompson
> Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 2:38 PM
> To: 6 Pack list
> Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
>
> Each time I release the clutch pedal I feel a slight click. What's about 
> to
> fail?
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wensley_tr at comcast.net

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu May  6 14:03:39 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 20:03:39 +0000
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
Message-ID: <1825730726-1273175903-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1757119751-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

My guess is the fork pin. 

------Original Message------
From: Stuart Thompson
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
Sent: May 6, 2010 1:37 PM

Each time I release the clutch pedal I feel a slight click. What's about to
fail?
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com



Luis

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May  6 14:24:24 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 13:24:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
In-Reply-To: <C052485ADFAC4263BAB151501A868A67@Dell320>
References: <C052485ADFAC4263BAB151501A868A67@Dell320>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569648B0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Stuart:

	Ummm... Sticky clutch syndrome?

	http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/clutch/StickyClutch/StickyClutch.ht
m

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Knowledge is power.
    Power corrupts.
    Study hard, be evil.
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stuart Thompson
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 11:38 AM
To: 6 Pack list
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click

Each time I release the clutch pedal I feel a slight click. What's about to
fail?

From Btp44 at aol.com  Thu May  6 14:51:36 2010
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 16:51:36 EDT
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
Message-ID: <51af8.74614791.391485d8@aol.com>

Stuart-Before you consider removing the trans., check the pivot points on  
the master&slave cyl. and the pedal bushings also, the pedal return spring.  
These have been known to make noise when they are dry or worn.
Berry

From gaf3 at charter.net  Thu May  6 15:13:45 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 17:13:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Dreaded Thrust Washers in the Oil Pan
Message-ID: <4BE33109.5090208@charter.net>

Group
I've been working on a friends 74 TR6 and we discovered lots of crank 
end play.
I checked the end play because he was complaining of hard shifts or 
grinding while putting the trans in reverse.
I removed the pan and found the thrust washers in the oil pan..
I've run into large end play issues with the TR6's but this is the first 
I've seen in the pan.

Understanding that this is a common malady with the TR6, I ordered a few 
sets of oversize thrust washers.
Don't think there is enough material in a .025" oversize bearing to fix 
the problem.

I pulled the bearing cap and didn't see major wear in the thrust face of 
the crank. I will need to do a closer inspection of the block

Anyone out there seen a reasonable/simple fix for this problem?

Thanks in advance
Glenn Franco
TR6's, 250 and Spit racer

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu May  6 16:04:49 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 06 May 2010 22:04:49 GMT
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
Message-ID: <COL123-DS20722A561FD62FA641FF7EF4F50@phx.gbl>

Stuart---If you can "feel" it, it's probaby because the sound is connected to your foot. I'm with Berry, in that it's in the pedal box. Check the MC clevis pin/clutch arm for notching. This is usually accompanied by lost motion and having to push the clutch pedal deeper when shifting gears.

If the sound is more muted, you may have to eventually open the bell housing to further inspect. First, have a friend operate the clutch while you listen closely, while underneath the car.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Stuart Thompson
Sent: Thursday, May 6, 2010 11:37 AM
To: 6  Pack list
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click

Each time I release the clutch pedal I feel a slight click. What's about to
fail?
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu May  6 16:32:07 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 18:32:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Dreaded Thrust Washers in the Oil Pan
In-Reply-To: <4BE33109.5090208@charter.net>
References: <4BE33109.5090208@charter.net>
Message-ID: <975D167ED75E428991DC03A4B66C8497@BobPC>

Did you order from Scott Helms (http://www.customthrustwashers.com/) Most of 
the 6-Pack Forum guys have moved to Scott's solid alloy thrust washers. Even 
if you don't buy from him, his site is an excellent resource on all things 
"thrust washer"

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
--------------------------------------------------
From: "Glenn Franco" <gaf3 at charter.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 5:13 PM
To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Dreaded Thrust Washers in the Oil Pan

> Group
> I've been working on a friends 74 TR6 and we discovered lots of crank end 
> play.
> I checked the end play because he was complaining of hard shifts or 
> grinding while putting the trans in reverse.
> I removed the pan and found the thrust washers in the oil pan..
> I've run into large end play issues with the TR6's but this is the first 
> I've seen in the pan.
>
> Understanding that this is a common malady with the TR6, I ordered a few 
> sets of oversize thrust washers.
> Don't think there is enough material in a .025" oversize bearing to fix 
> the problem.
>
> I pulled the bearing cap and didn't see major wear in the thrust face of 
> the crank. I will need to do a closer inspection of the block
>
> Anyone out there seen a reasonable/simple fix for this problem?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> TR6's, 250 and Spit racer
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu May  6 17:54:10 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 6 May 2010 18:54:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks
Message-ID: <908431652F1C48B087B17102B628355F@ranteer.local>

hi, all.

1972 tr6, triple carb, gp3 cam, shaved head, etc.

my mechanic tells me from the symptoms - idles sometimes at 1800, sometimes
800 or lower, that I have a vacuum leak.

is there a good way to trace that down?  the spare dizzy is in the car right
now; it has the vacuum advance (and points).  the rebuilt one is ready to go
(pertronix, recurved, no vacuum advance, etc).  follow up question - should I
put that in first?  and what do I do with the vacuum line?

thanks!

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May  7 05:48:40 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 07:48:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Fenders
Message-ID: <201005070748.41419.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Just wanted to mention that I received my 2 rear fenders earlier in the week 
from Marv Gruber out of Alabama.

Terry Geiger forwarded my request to Marv and he got right back to me with 
photos of what he had in stock.

I selected 2 and he then promptly shipped them via UPS on the next day. 

And I havent even paid for them yet!

Marv said he has never been stiffed by an LBC guy so he figured me good for the 
fenders + shipping.

Thanks Marv and Terry!

Bob

From gaf3 at charter.net  Fri May  7 06:23:18 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 08:23:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Dreaded Thrust Washers in the Oil Pan
In-Reply-To: <975D167ED75E428991DC03A4B66C8497@BobPC>
References: <4BE33109.5090208@charter.net>
	<975D167ED75E428991DC03A4B66C8497@BobPC>
Message-ID: <4BE40636.6000402@charter.net>

Thanks Bob
I was not aware of Scot Helms work on these thrust washers. Just visited 
his site.
Looks like a good alternative to the stock arrangement.

What surprised me is that this engine only has about 40k miles on it.

I also like the idea of a full circle thrust washer that Geoff Bryne has 
recommended.

 I need to inspect the area on the block and cap more closely.

Glenn

Bob Danielson wrote:
> Did you order from Scott Helms (http://www.customthrustwashers.com/) 
> Most of the 6-Pack Forum guys have moved to Scott's solid alloy thrust 
> washers. Even if you don't buy from him, his site is an excellent 
> resource on all things "thrust washer"
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "Glenn Franco" <gaf3 at charter.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 5:13 PM
> To: "Friends of Triumph" <fot at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: [6pack] Dreaded Thrust Washers in the Oil Pan
>
>> Group
>> I've been working on a friends 74 TR6 and we discovered lots of crank 
>> end play.
>> I checked the end play because he was complaining of hard shifts or 
>> grinding while putting the trans in reverse.
>> I removed the pan and found the thrust washers in the oil pan..
>> I've run into large end play issues with the TR6's but this is the 
>> first I've seen in the pan.
>>
>> Understanding that this is a common malady with the TR6, I ordered a 
>> few sets of oversize thrust washers.
>> Don't think there is enough material in a .025" oversize bearing to 
>> fix the problem.
>>
>> I pulled the bearing cap and didn't see major wear in the thrust face 
>> of the crank. I will need to do a closer inspection of the block
>>
>> Anyone out there seen a reasonable/simple fix for this problem?
>>
>> Thanks in advance
>> Glenn Franco
>> TR6's, 250 and Spit racer
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
>> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From blang at MIT.EDU  Fri May  7 08:25:25 2010
From: blang at MIT.EDU (Robert M Lang)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 10:25:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Kool PIX
Message-ID: <EAD427373471234097C410B6639513031153FD73C3@EXPO9.exchange.mit.edu>

Hi,

I wound up having a pretty good day at a New England Region SCCA autocross
last weekend.

Check out the pix here:

http://furball.smugmug.com/Autocross/05-02-2010-NHMS/12091228_RSNH2#859076566
_tD84i

particularly pictures 128 and 133.

How do you spell TORQUE??

FWIW, I also PAXED #1 or 89 drivers. I have never PAXed an NER/SCCA event, so
I was actually stunned when they announced that I'd accomplished that.

Far out.
rml

Bob Lang

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri May  7 12:06:29 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 07 May 2010 11:06:29 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Kool PIX
References: <EAD427373471234097C410B6639513031153FD73C3@EXPO9.exchange.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <000e01caee10$04b66470$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Great pictures, thank you.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert M Lang" <blang at MIT.EDU>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 7:25 AM
Subject: [6pack] Kool PIX


> Hi,
>
> I wound up having a pretty good day at a New England Region SCCA autocross
> last weekend.
>
> Check out the pix here:
>
>
http://furball.smugmug.com/Autocross/05-02-2010-NHMS/12091228_RSNH2#859076566
> _tD84i
>
> particularly pictures 128 and 133.
>
> How do you spell TORQUE??
>
> FWIW, I also PAXED #1 or 89 drivers. I have never PAXed an NER/SCCA event,
so
> I was actually stunned when they announced that I'd accomplished that.
>
> Far out.
> rml
>
> Bob Lang
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
> Database version: 6.14880
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
Database version: 6.14880
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May  7 09:31:32 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 08:31:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] FW: Kool PIX
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569648E85@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Robert:

	The picture of your car squatting mightily and grabbing air on the inside
front tire is most impressive. I'd say stiffer rear springs are in order....
=:-o

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Knowledge is power.
    Power corrupts.
    Study hard, be evil.
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert M Lang
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 7:25 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Kool PIX

Hi,

<snip>

How do you spell TORQUE??

FWIW, I also PAXED #1 or 89 drivers. I have never PAXed an NER/SCCA event, so
I was actually stunned when they announced that I'd accomplished that.

Far out.
rml

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri May  7 11:20:35 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 17:20:35 +0000
Subject: [6pack] FW: Kool PIX
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569648E85@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569648E85@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W10EA1D498CC92D51C3625C8EF60@phx.gbl>

Awesome pics! I think if you press down harder with your left foot, it'll keep
that left front tire on the road. (haha)



Congrats on the finish!



Sloane :o)

69-Six

> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Robert M Lang
> Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 7:25 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Kool PIX
>
> Hi,
>

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May  7 11:56:26 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 13:56:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks
In-Reply-To: <908431652F1C48B087B17102B628355F@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313469E@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Oliver:

Are you sure it is not the vacuum retard? When there is only one unit on the
distributor, it is a retarding unit so far as I know. My idle was too high
until I replaced the part and then would idle down to the mid hundreds of rpm.
I don't know if one can have an intermittent leak in the dizzy diaphragm. If
not, then one could do worse than looking at the brake booster and the input
to it.

Cheers,

Mark
1972 TR6 - triple Stromberg.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: May 6, 2010 7:54 PM
To: '6 Pack list'
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks

hi, all.

1972 tr6, triple carb, gp3 cam, shaved head, etc.

my mechanic tells me from the symptoms - idles sometimes at 1800, sometimes
800 or lower, that I have a vacuum leak.

is there a good way to trace that down?  the spare dizzy is in the car right
now; it has the vacuum advance (and points).  the rebuilt one is ready to go
(pertronix, recurved, no vacuum advance, etc).  follow up question - should I
put that in first?  and what do I do with the vacuum line?

thanks!
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/mhooper at digiscreen.ca

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri May  7 12:44:54 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 14:44:54 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TriumphBob is Home
Message-ID: <2651c.3b404232.3915b9a6@aol.com>

Hi Guys,
Sometimes things work out.  I was telling Bob all along that "Better  Days 
are Coming".  He kept the faith and with his substantial inner  strength, 
pure will to survive along with a little help from his friends,  he got by as 
Ava has described below.  
Thanks to all of you for giving my best Triumph companion your  support. 
Although the "Glory Years" are probably behind us now we both still  hope to 
do many more Triumph miles together before it's over @ TRA, VTR, 6-PACK  
Nationals, Roadster Factory Summer Party, Carlisle Import and Kit Car Nationals, 
 Various British Car Days, NCTA events, etc.etc.
See all of you on down the road someday,
Darrell  
 
 
3 months after this whole  nightmare started (with a call to my doctor to 
make an appointment for the next  day), Bob will be coming home!  This 
Saturday, May 1st, I will bring Bob  home to live in our house 75 days after he 
checked into the Cleveland  Clinic
 
His doctors, nurses, aides,  Physical and Occupational therapists are all 
thrilled with his recovery to this  point and Bob is feeling good!
 
 
Bob and I are so grateful for all  the visits, cards and Emails.  They have 
brightened Bob's days stuck in a  controlled environment and allowed him to 
smile when he was feeling very  low.
We hope to be able to  thank each of you in person some day, but for now, 
we ask that you please  continue the good thoughts as Bob continues his 
battle with  Leukemia.
Much love,
Ava

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May  7 13:45:29 2010
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 15:45:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Kool PIX
In-Reply-To: <EAD427373471234097C410B6639513031153FD73C3@EXPO9.exchange.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <20100507194529.YE84T.438493.root@hrndva-web16-z01>

If I'm not mistaken, that's you in #138, as well 
("The Long and Winding Road" photo), no?

Very cool, Bob. So what do you do for an encore, 
defend the title?

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


---- Robert M Lang <blang at MIT.EDU> wrote: 
> Hi,
> 
> I wound up having a pretty good day at a New England Region SCCA autocross
> last weekend.
> 
> Check out the pix here:
> 
> http://furball.smugmug.com/Autocross/05-02-2010-NHMS/12091228_RSNH2#859076566
> _tD84i
> 
> particularly pictures 128 and 133.
> 
> How do you spell TORQUE??
> 
> FWIW, I also PAXED #1 or 89 drivers. I have never PAXed an NER/SCCA event, so
> I was actually stunned when they announced that I'd accomplished that.
> 
> Far out.
> rml
> 
> Bob Lang

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May  7 14:12:39 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 16:12:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TriumphBob is Home
In-Reply-To: <2651c.3b404232.3915b9a6@aol.com>
References: <2651c.3b404232.3915b9a6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W23BBA4542EF6E5FB0EF0E8BAF60@phx.gbl>

Thats great news. Thanks for the update.



Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May  7 14:47:47 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 13:47:47 -0700
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks
In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313469E@CMS01.winhosting.local>
References: <908431652F1C48B087B17102B628355F@ranteer.local>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313469E@CMS01.winhosting.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725696A41F9@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Mark:

	Oooo, very astute. Wish I thought of that one. Yes, the vacuum retard might
be on its way out, and could indeed cause an unsteady idle. To test this idea
disconnect the vacuum line to the dizzy and cap it. The idle should be steady
and fast with the vacuum line plugged. The retard drops the idle by about 400
RPM when functioning, if I remember correctly.
	BTW, the later vacuum retard is NLA from the big three, last time I checked.
However the earlier vacuum retard was still available. If you do need a later
vacuum retard capsule, you can order the earlier one, and hacksaw the threaded
rod off of the unit. Other than the presence of the threaded rod, the old and
new retard capsules are identical, so cutting the rod off the earlier one
gives you a drop in replacement for the later style. Ask me how I know.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Friday, May 07, 2010 10:56 AM
To: 'oliver'; '6 Pack list'
Subject: Re: [6pack] vacuum leaks

Hi Oliver:

Are you sure it is not the vacuum retard? When there is only one unit on the
distributor, it is a retarding unit so far as I know. My idle was too high
until I replaced the part and then would idle down to the mid hundreds of
rpm.
I don't know if one can have an intermittent leak in the dizzy diaphragm. If
not, then one could do worse than looking at the brake booster and the input
to it.

Cheers,

Mark
1972 TR6 - triple Stromberg.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May  7 15:04:36 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 14:04:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks
In-Reply-To: <908431652F1C48B087B17102B628355F@ranteer.local>
References: <908431652F1C48B087B17102B628355F@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725696A4219@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Oliver:

	If it is in fact a vacuum leak, then you can use an *unlit* propane torch and
spray propane around all the manifold seams for the carbs with the engine
running. When you are close to a leak, the idle speed will go up by virtue of
the increased amount of fuel going into the engine.
	Some people use starting fluid rather than propane, although I have not tried
that personally.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 4:54 PM
To: '6 Pack list'
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks

hi, all.

1972 tr6, triple carb, gp3 cam, shaved head, etc.

my mechanic tells me from the symptoms - idles sometimes at 1800, sometimes
800 or lower, that I have a vacuum leak.

is there a good way to trace that down?  the spare dizzy is in the car right
now; it has the vacuum advance (and points).  the rebuilt one is ready to go
(pertronix, recurved, no vacuum advance, etc).  follow up question - should I
put that in first?  and what do I do with the vacuum line?

thanks!

From cris_tr6 at hotmail.com  Sat May  8 10:18:04 2010
From: cris_tr6 at hotmail.com (Cris Hemingway)
Date: Sat, 8 May 2010 09:18:04 -0700
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725696A41F9@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <908431652F1C48B087B17102B628355F@ranteer.local>,
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313469E@CMS01.winhosting.local>,
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725696A41F9@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <COL101-W426EA16CE6428C9F87BCB2ABF70@phx.gbl>

If you have Stromberg carbs, the symptoms described can be caused by a
stuck/dirty temperature compensator on either carb.  These can be cleaned and
re-set, and there is techincal information available on how to do it.  Not
sure where I picked it up though, either Moss Motors or the Triumph Registry
website (VTR?) some time ago.







Cris Hemingway




> From: vance.navarrette at intel.com
> To: mhooper at digiscreen.ca; sumton at sbcglobal.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 13:47:47 -0700
> Subject: Re: [6pack] vacuum leaks
>
> Mark:
>
> Oooo, very astute. Wish I thought of that one. Yes, the vacuum retard might
> be on its way out, and could indeed cause an unsteady idle. To test this
idea
> disconnect the vacuum line to the dizzy and cap it. The idle should be
steady
> and fast with the vacuum line plugged. The retard drops the idle by about
400
> RPM when functioning, if I remember correctly.
> BTW, the later vacuum retard is NLA from the big three, last time I
checked.
> However the earlier vacuum retard was still available. If you do need a
later
> vacuum retard capsule, you can order the earlier one, and hacksaw the
threaded
> rod off of the unit. Other than the presence of the threaded rod, the old
and
> new retard capsules are identical, so cutting the rod off the earlier one
> gives you a drop in replacement for the later style. Ask me how I know.
>

>

_________________________________________________________________
Win a $10,000 shopping spree from Hotmail! Enter now.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729711

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat May  8 16:34:53 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 08 May 2010 15:34:53 -0700
Subject: [6pack] vacuum leaks,temp comps
References: <908431652F1C48B087B17102B628355F@ranteer.local>
	<7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE313469E@CMS01.winhosting.local>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725696A41F9@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<COL101-W426EA16CE6428C9F87BCB2ABF70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000401caeefe$ae1d9a80$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

VTR reference.
http://www.vtr.org/maintain/temp-compensators.shtml
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cris Hemingway" <cris_tr6 at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 08, 2010 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] vacuum leaks


> If you have Stromberg carbs, the symptoms described can be caused by a
> stuck/dirty temperature compensator on either carb.  These can be cleaned
and
> re-set, and there is techincal information available on how to do it.  Not
> sure where I picked it up though, either Moss Motors or the Triumph
Registry
> website (VTR?) some time ago.
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Cris Hemingway
>
>
>
>
> > From: vance.navarrette at intel.com
> > To: mhooper at digiscreen.ca; sumton at sbcglobal.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> > Date: Fri, 7 May 2010 13:47:47 -0700
> > Subject: Re: [6pack] vacuum leaks
> >
> > Mark:
> >
> > Oooo, very astute. Wish I thought of that one. Yes, the vacuum retard
might
> > be on its way out, and could indeed cause an unsteady idle. To test this
> idea
> > disconnect the vacuum line to the dizzy and cap it. The idle should be
> steady
> > and fast with the vacuum line plugged. The retard drops the idle by
about
> 400
> > RPM when functioning, if I remember correctly.
> > BTW, the later vacuum retard is NLA from the big three, last time I
> checked.
> > However the earlier vacuum retard was still available. If you do need a
> later
> > vacuum retard capsule, you can order the earlier one, and hacksaw the
> threaded
> > rod off of the unit. Other than the presence of the threaded rod, the
old
> and
> > new retard capsules are identical, so cutting the rod off the earlier
one
> > gives you a drop in replacement for the later style. Ask me how I know.
> >
>
> >
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Win a $10,000 shopping spree from Hotmail! Enter now.
> http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729711
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
> Database version: 6.14880
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
Database version: 6.14880
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From apackard68 at att.net  Mon May 10 11:29:23 2010
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Mon, 10 May 2010 10:29:23 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Brutes and Beauts Vintage Autocross and Car Gathering
Message-ID: <560322.89615.qm@web83805.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

The first ever Brutes and Beauts happened on Saturday in Santa Clara, CA and
was a great time for all who attended.  We fell a bit short on our breakeven
attendance number, but hopefully my club will decide to try again next year
after building a little momentum.  We had about 60 drivers there and allowed
six runs each for each run group.  We even had fun runs at the end and drivers
got another 4-5 runs during that time.  The SCCA practice of collecting
drivers licenses from fun run drivers is a great way to coerse clean up help
at the end!  
Type in Brutes and Beauts in you tube to see my third fastest
run of the day.  The video was taken by my ipod nano taped to my rear view
mirror.  
Here's the link:  http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BkstPJ1Vo_8

Andy
Packard
Brutes and Beauts Event Chairman

From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 11 12:21:25 2010
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 11:21:25 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Can some measure a front shock for me?
Message-ID: <AANLkTiloSc_iLLvzQzda0D0-VFNCh7MGwCPV4-Jp31aC@mail.gmail.com>

I need to know the outside diameter of a Koni Classic front shock for a TR
[6 in my case].  Need the non-moving part of the shock diameter -- am
building spring spacers for my 2.5" interior diameter springs.

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue May 11 15:06:03 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 14:06:03 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
Message-ID: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have been trying to diagnose a miss a friend/club member has on his 74 TR6. 
The car is stock with the carbs recently rebuilt by a reputable local LBC shop
and later rechecked by them.  The car runs fine except on take off from a stop
after it has warmed up.  The miss disappears when he uses the choke or
throttle to keep the rpms at around 1500.   Fuel supply problems?  Dizzy
problem??  Looking for help from my fellow listers.  TIA.

Mike Lunsford

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue May 11 16:58:52 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 15:58:52 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
In-Reply-To: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B2E07E1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Mike:

While it could be many things, I can tell you that I had the EXACT same
symptoms. I tried EVERYTHING (or so I thought) to no avail. Mixture, timing,
dashpot oil, plug wires, plugs, etc had no effect. Lots of dead ends.

The bottom line, my dwell was waaay off, despite having what I thought was the
correct point gap. The spec is 34-38 degrees for 1974, mine was 12 degrees
when I checked it with a dwell meter. Oops.

Moral of the story: Check dwell with a meter, do not rely on point gap alone.
Too easy to screw it up (at least for me). I realize most of you (all of you?)
would never do anything this brain dead, but I was an abused child so it is
not my fault. I am a victim I tell you, a VICTIM!!!

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 2:06 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle

I have been trying to diagnose a miss a friend/club member has on his 74 TR6.
The car is stock with the carbs recently rebuilt by a reputable local LBC
shop
and later rechecked by them.  The car runs fine except on takeoff from a stop
after it has warmed up.  The miss disappears when he uses the choke or
throttle to keep the rpms at around 1500.   Fuel supply problems?  Dizzy
problem??  Looking for help from my fellow listers.  TIA.

Mike Lunsford

From dramsey11 at windstream.net  Tue May 11 17:18:55 2010
From: dramsey11 at windstream.net (Darrell Ramsey)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 19:18:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
In-Reply-To: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <DD115D0F6CC14915AD00D2FCBF9FDF70@Dadlaptop>

Mike,
My guess would be an intake manifold gasket leak or a vacuum hose leak 
creating a lean mixture in a cylinder or two.   Applying the choke would 
enrich the mixture and compensate for the lean condition.  An air leak can 
be confirmed by using an unlit propane torch as described in recent list 
traffic.

Darrell R

--------------------------------------------------
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 5:06 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle

> I have been trying to diagnose a miss a friend/club member has on his 74 
> TR6.
> The car is stock with the carbs recently rebuilt by a reputable local LBC 
> shop
> and later rechecked by them.  The car runs fine except on take off from a 
> stop
> after it has warmed up.  The miss disappears when he uses the choke or
> throttle to keep the rpms at around 1500.   Fuel supply problems?  Dizzy
> problem??  Looking for help from my fellow listers.  TIA.
>
> Mike Lunsford
> _______________________________________________

From cris_tr6 at hotmail.com  Tue May 11 17:38:58 2010
From: cris_tr6 at hotmail.com (Cris Hemingway)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:38:58 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B2E07E1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>,
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B2E07E1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <COL101-W2902327A3D036BF2091925ABFA0@phx.gbl>

I have the same problem, but ith a Crene Electronic ignition.  Dwell isn't in
the equation with this type of ignition system, as it can't be set (I think).
I too have gone through all the obvious culprits, but still have a bit of a
stumble unless I get the revs up before releasing the clutch.



Any other suggestions?



Cris Hemingway




> From: vance.navarrette at intel.com
> To: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 15:58:52 -0700
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
>
> Mike:
>
> While it could be many things, I can tell you that I had the EXACT same
> symptoms. I tried EVERYTHING (or so I thought) to no avail. Mixture,
timing,
> dashpot oil, plug wires, plugs, etc had no effect. Lots of dead ends.
>
> The bottom line, my dwell was waaay off, despite having what I thought was
the
> correct point gap. The spec is 34-38 degrees for 1974, mine was 12 degrees
> when I checked it with a dwell meter. Oops.
>
> Moral of the story: Check dwell with a meter, do not rely on point gap
alone.
> Too easy to screw it up (at least for me). I realize most of you (all of
you?)
> would never do anything this brain dead, but I was an abused child so it is
> not my fault. I am a victim I tell you, a VICTIM!!!
>
> Vance
>
> Vance Navarrette
> http://www.triumphowners.com/832
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of michael lunsford
> Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 2:06 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
>
> I have been trying to diagnose a miss a friend/club member has on his 74
TR6.
> The car is stock with the carbs recently rebuilt by a reputable local LBC
> shop
> and later rechecked by them. The car runs fine except on takeoff from a
stop
> after it has warmed up. The miss disappears when he uses the choke or
> throttle to keep the rpms at around 1500. Fuel supply problems? Dizzy
> problem?? Looking for help from my fellow listers. TIA.
>
> Mike Lunsford
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/cris_tr6 at hotmail.com
>

_________________________________________________________________
Win $10,000 from Hotmail! Enter Here.
http://go.microsoft.com/?linkid=9729708

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue May 11 17:48:59 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 19:48:59 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
In-Reply-To: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <GPoJ1e0030HYFJw05PoJpA@charter.net>

At 05:06 PM 5/11/2010, you wrote:
>I have been trying to diagnose a miss a friend/club member has on his 74 TR6.
>The car is stock with the carbs recently rebuilt by a reputable local LBC shop
>and later rechecked by them.  The car runs fine except on take off from a stop
>after it has warmed up.  The miss disappears when he uses the choke or
>throttle to keep the rpms at around 1500.

Dashpot oil?  Sticky distributor weights?


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From tom628 at verizon.net  Tue May 11 21:20:37 2010
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 23:20:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
References: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B2E07E1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <C56E50544AA64A6E98C6819FF1A3A1DD@Toms>

Vance:   Wow.  12 vs. 34 deg. seems like huge discrepancy. What was the 
cause, and how did you correct it? If it was just a matter of point gap, how 
much could it have been off if you had already checked the points.
   Excuse the naive questions, but I've never used a dwell meter.
Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 6:58 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Miss Off Idle


> Mike:
>
> While it could be many things, I can tell you that I had the EXACT same
> symptoms. I tried EVERYTHING (or so I thought) to no avail. Mixture, 
> timing,
> dashpot oil, plug wires, plugs, etc had no effect. Lots of dead ends.
>
> The bottom line, my dwell was waaay off, despite having what I thought was 
> the
> correct point gap. The spec is 34-38 degrees for 1974, mine was 12 degrees
> when I checked it with a dwell meter. Oops.
>
> Moral of the story: Check dwell with a meter, do not rely on point gap 
> alone.
> Too easy to screw it up (at least for me). I realize most of you (all of 
> you?)
> would never do anything this brain dead, but I was an abused child so it 
> is
> not my fault. I am a victim I tell you, a VICTIM!!!
>
> Vance
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of michael lunsford
> Sent: Tuesday, May 11, 2010 2:06 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
>
> I have been trying to diagnose a miss a friend/club member has on his 74 
> TR6.
> The car is stock with the carbs recently rebuilt by a reputable local LBC
> shop
> and later rechecked by them.  The car runs fine except on takeoff from a 
> stop
> after it has warmed up.  The miss disappears when he uses the choke or
> throttle to keep the rpms at around 1500.   Fuel supply problems?  Dizzy
> problem??  Looking for help from my fellow listers.  TIA.
>
> Mike Lunsford
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom628 at verizon.net

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Wed May 12 06:20:24 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 08:20:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carlisle commercial
Message-ID: <4BEA9D08.8050702@bright.net>

Carlisle commercial -- last call.  We will be at Import Carlisle 
Thursday through Saturday. Spaces E63 and E64.  If you need something 
that we normally do not take to this event, engines, gearboxes or other 
heavy items, please lt us know.  Save shipping.  Also for sale is the 
canopy listed below.  Ideal for the "famous"Carlisle weather. Thanks for 
your time.  Ted
 

$For Sale -- new 10' x 20' free standing canopy. This is a post and 
frame unit, not a folding "Easy Up" style canopy. We needed a spare for 
the Sebring 12 hour race. Used one time. We did not even use the top but 
rather a pullover large vinyl tarp. Posts come apart for transport. 
There are no side walls. These are available from several sources..  $100

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From ikorey at comcast.net  Wed May 12 06:37:10 2010
From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 07:37:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
In-Reply-To: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <547211.57693.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTil905E3KE3w8gmSIBCbkUQINjfeGhUYp583ba6c@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, May 11, 2010 at 4:06 PM, michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>wrote:

> I have been trying to diagnose a miss a friend/club member has on his 74
> TR6.
> The car is stock with the carbs recently rebuilt by a reputable local LBC
> shop
> and later rechecked by them.  The car runs fine except on take off from a
> stop
> after it has warmed up.  The miss disappears when he uses the choke or
> throttle to keep the rpms at around 1500.   Fuel supply problems?  Dizzy
> problem??  Looking for help from my fellow listers.
>

My 74 always did this when new, except when stuck in traffic and the coolant
temperature came up. The 74 "features" a sensor on
the top radiator hose that caused the vacuum retard on the dizzy to be
bypassed when the coolant got to a certain
temperature. When this activated, the timing advanced, the idle picked up a
couple hundred rpm, and the miss went away. A good running
TR6 was more important to me than low emissions, so I ended up advancing the
timing from the emissions setting (4 degrees ATDC) to
about 8 degrees before, and my miss went away forever. And I still passed
all of my emissions tests (now no longer required, YAY!).

HTH,

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 09:30:44 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 08:30:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A__Let=27s_STOP_soynesoidal_repleneration!?=
	=?utf-8?b?4oCP?=
Message-ID: <764645.11826.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 It's about time someone 
came up with a practical solution to this problem.
Looks like the time has 
come.  Click the attachment.

 We need these for our
cars.  John

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type video/x-ms-wmv which had a name of Rockwell]

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 09:30:44 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 08:30:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A__Let=27s_STOP_soynesoidal_repleneration!?=
	=?utf-8?b?4oCP?=
Message-ID: <764645.11826.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 It's about time someone 
came up with a practical solution to this problem.
Looks like the time has 
come.  Click the attachment.

 We need these for our
cars.  John

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type video/x-ms-wmv which had a name of Rockwell]

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 09:30:44 2010
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 08:30:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] =?utf-8?q?Fw=3A__Let=27s_STOP_soynesoidal_repleneration!?=
	=?utf-8?b?4oCP?=
Message-ID: <764645.11826.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

 It's about time someone 
came up with a practical solution to this problem.
Looks like the time has 
come.  Click the attachment.

 We need these for our
cars.  John

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type video/x-ms-wmv which had a name of Rockwell]

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed May 12 10:20:36 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 12:20:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - 2500 RPM 'miss'
Message-ID: <001001caf1ef$0e42d860$2ac88920$@net>

List - 

    Since Mike asked his "miss" question, I'm going to ask mine.

   A long and involved question to try to solve a long standing issue.  Back
in 2001, I spun 

a bearing in my 1976 TR6 motor and had to have it re-built.  Rather than do
it stock (heaven 

forbid!), the motor was bored .30 over, the head was milled to about 9:1
compression

and the cam was re-ground to specs similar to the 150HP cam found in PI
cars.  The carbs

and the exhaust system were left bone stock.  The car is equipped with a
Pertronix ignition 

in the dizzy and the dashpot oil is checked regularly.    

  After a break-in period, I noticed a slight stumble at 2000- 2500 rpm
under load (note that 

the motor idles fine (a little lumpy due to the cam) and will run smoothly
well up over 2500 

rpm while stationary).  I let it slide, assuming it would smooth out once
the motor was fully 

broken in. It didn't. Even though the miss suggests a lean condition, the
plugs were fouling 

pretty regularly so I tried a hotter plug (went from NGK BP6ES to BP5ES) and
eventually 

(2005) had the ZS carbs re-built by Joe Curto.  I mentioned to Joe the
changes I had made to 

the motor and he suggested staying with the stock TR6 needles but said if
they didn't work 

out, I might try the needles used on a 6 cylinder Jag.  I've not yet tried
that change. 

     I am now looking to fix this miss.  I had a tune-up done last week
(valves checked, etc,

etc) and the stumble continues.  It starts at around 2000 rpm and often
continues almost 

up to 3000 rpm in all gears - above that it smooths out and the motor runs
like a beast 

(3000 rpm is about where the cam really kicks in).  I'm assuming this is a
fuel issue but am 

at a loss to figure out which way to go.  I'm considering moving back to the
cooler spark 

plugs (my plugs are almost white and I've NEVER had the "sandy colored"
plugs that one is 

supposed to have) and am planning to purchase a few sets of needles to play
with (including 

the Jag needles mentioned above) but there are not that many available for
ZS carbs .  We've 
already tried shaving the stock needles to increase gas flow at the low end
but it didn't help, 

and no amount of leaning or richening of the carbs seems to make a positive
difference.

   I fully realize that swapping out the ZS carbs for a set of SUs might
make this easier to sort

out (and I have access to a pair if it comes to this) but I'd rather try to
sort out the ZSs. Ideas

are welcome, and thanks.  

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U                

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed May 12 10:30:01 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:30:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Brake shoe life
Message-ID: <931426.82416.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

All:

I've always assumed that rear brake shoes still have some life on them
if they're thicker than the backing plate their attached to.  Valid
assumption?

Drums, cylinders, hoses, are all good.

Joe Merone
CF18928
5-speed

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed May 12 10:58:55 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 09:58:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Miss off Idle
Message-ID: <477136.87844.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I got so many good suggestions that I decided to just thank the list as a
whole for the ideas.  I'll post the cause to the list as soon as we find it. 
Thanks to everyone.

Mike Lunsford

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed May 12 11:18:04 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 10:18:04 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - 2500 RPM 'miss'
In-Reply-To: <001001caf1ef$0e42d860$2ac88920$@net>
References: <001001caf1ef$0e42d860$2ac88920$@net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B2E0ABC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Dennis:

	It can be many things, you will just need to work through the possibilities.
Bad plug wires or perhaps a bad coil come to mind, as well as a vacuum leak. I
will assume that your tune-up covered all the bases such that valve lash,
dwell angle, damper oil, plug gap, timing, etc are up to snuff. I recommend
factory plug gap settings until you get this sorted. Are you sure your vacuum
lines are correctly configured? Vacuum retard, EGR valve, canister purge are
all routed correctly and leak free? Dizzy vacuum capsule working properly?
	My personal favorite is what you already mentioned, a lean miss. If your
plugs are white, you are waaay lean. I am running a 270 degree cam, and I have
nice cardboard colored plugs using B1AR needles. I found the Jag needles to be
a bit on the rich side for my cam. Since your 285 degree cam is more radical,
the Jag needles may be fine. My recommendation is get your mixture
straightened out before doing anything else. THEN if you still have a miss,
try some of the other stuff.
	Do not use the "lift the slide" method to set mixture - with your cam this
won't work. Use plug cuts or a Color Tune instead.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----

From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dennis Culligan

<snip>
...the motor was bored .30 over, the head was milled to about 9:1
Compression and the cam was re-ground to specs similar to the 150HP
cam found in PI cars.  The carbs and the exhaust system were left
bone stock.  The car is equipped with a Pertronix ignition in the
dizzy and the dashpot oil is checked regularly.
  After a break-in period, I noticed a slight stumble at 2000- 2500 rpm
under load (note that the motor idles fine (a little lumpy due to the cam)
and will run smoothly well up over 2500 pm while stationary).
<snip>
  I'm considering moving back to the cooler spark plugs (my plugs are
almost white and I've NEVER had the "sandy colored" plugs that one is
supposed to have) and no amount of leaning or richening of the carbs
seems to make a positive difference.

<snip>

Dennis Culligan

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed May 12 11:50:45 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 13:50:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] FW:  TR6 - 2500 RPM 'miss' - one more thing...
Message-ID: <000301caf1fb$a5fda7f0$f1f8f7d0$@net>

Thanks for the input so far.

One itty-bitty thing I forgot to add - ALL of the pollution control stuff
was removed 

when the motor was re-built - no smog pump, no recirculation system, no EGR,
etc. 

Dennis

 

From: Dennis Culligan [mailto:dctr6 at optonline.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 12, 2010 12:21 PM
To: '6pack at autox.team.net'
Subject: TR6 - 2500 RPM 'miss' 

 

List - 

    Since Mike asked his "miss" question, I'm going to ask mine.

   A long and involved question to try to solve a long standing issue.  Back
in 2001, I spun 

a bearing in my 1976 TR6 motor and had to have it re-built.  Rather than do
it stock (heaven 

forbid!), the motor was bored .30 over, the head was milled to about 9:1
compression

and the cam was re-ground to specs similar to the 150HP cam found in PI
cars.  The carbs

and the exhaust system were left bone stock.  The car is equipped with a
Pertronix ignition 

in the dizzy and the dashpot oil is checked regularly.    

  After a break-in period, I noticed a slight stumble at 2000- 2500 rpm
under load (note that 

the motor idles fine (a little lumpy due to the cam) and will run smoothly
well up over 2500 

rpm while stationary).  I let it slide, assuming it would smooth out once
the motor was fully 

broken in. It didn't. Even though the miss suggests a lean condition, the
plugs were fouling 

pretty regularly so I tried a hotter plug (went from NGK BP6ES to BP5ES) and
eventually 

(2005) had the ZS carbs re-built by Joe Curto.  I mentioned to Joe the
changes I had made to 

the motor and he suggested staying with the stock TR6 needles but said if
they didn't work 

out, I might try the needles used on a 6 cylinder Jag.  I've not yet tried
that change. 

     I am now looking to fix this miss.  I had a tune-up done last week
(valves checked, etc,

etc) and the stumble continues.  It starts at around 2000 rpm and often
continues almost 

up to 3000 rpm in all gears - above that it smooths out and the motor runs
like a beast 

(3000 rpm is about where the cam really kicks in).  I'm assuming this is a
fuel issue but am 

at a loss to figure out which way to go.  I'm considering moving back to the
cooler spark 

plugs (my plugs are almost white and I've NEVER had the "sandy colored"
plugs that one is 

supposed to have) and am planning to purchase a few sets of needles to play
with (including 

the Jag needles mentioned above) but there are not that many available for
ZS carbs .  We've 
already tried shaving the stock needles to increase gas flow at the low end
but it didn't help, 

and no amount of leaning or richening of the carbs seems to make a positive
difference.

   I fully realize that swapping out the ZS carbs for a set of SUs might
make this easier to sort

out (and I have access to a pair if it comes to this) but I'd rather try to
sort out the ZSs. Ideas

are welcome, and thanks.  

Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U                

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Wed May 12 11:57:38 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 13:57:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - 2500 RPM miss
Message-ID: <000801caf1fc$9f964b00$dec2e100$@net>

Bob wrote:

 

>To the stumble, did you re-profile your distributor? 

>Are you SURE that the distributor doesn't have any other issues?

 

Bob - 

  The dizzy was NOT re-profiled, and the Pertronix was installed

years ago to address what appeared to be a slight wobble in the 

distributor shaft (getting the timing right was a nightmare until

the Pertronix was installed). 

Dennis     

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed May 12 12:38:05 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 11:38:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] FW:  TR6 - 2500 RPM 'miss' - one more thing...
In-Reply-To: <000301caf1fb$a5fda7f0$f1f8f7d0$@net>
References: <000301caf1fb$a5fda7f0$f1f8f7d0$@net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B2E0B84@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Dennis:

	You kept the vacuum retard presumably, yes?

	Often when people remove their smog equipment, they try to keep the vacuum
retard hooked up in the mistaken believe that it is a vacuum advance. Usually
they completely bugger the vacuum connection for the capsule because of this
mistaken belief. So I gotta ask, where is the vacuum line from the dizzy
connected? Front carb? Back Carb? And which vacuum port is it connected to on
that carb? Are you certain that the vacuum retard capsule is working
correctly? They are usually inoperative due to age, and need to be replaced.
This could explain your symptoms.

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dennis Culligan

Thanks for the input so far.

One itty-bitty thing I forgot to add - ALL of the pollution control stuff
was removed

when the motor was re-built - no smog pump, no recirculation system, no EGR,
etc.

Dennis

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed May 12 12:46:22 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 14:46:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - 2500 RPM miss
In-Reply-To: <000801caf1fc$9f964b00$dec2e100$@net>
References: <000801caf1fc$9f964b00$dec2e100$@net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1005121435340.22806@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 12 May 2010, Dennis Culligan wrote:

> Bob wrote:
>
>
>
>> To the stumble, did you re-profile your distributor?
>
>> Are you SURE that the distributor doesn't have any other issues?
>
>
>
> Bob -
>
>  The dizzy was NOT re-profiled, and the Pertronix was installed
>
> years ago to address what appeared to be a slight wobble in the
>
> distributor shaft (getting the timing right was a nightmare until
>
> the Pertronix was installed).

Aha! I'd def. start with the distributor, then.

I had a heck of a time trying to get rid of a stumble years ago with a 
similar setup to you and eventually just flat out replaced the distributor 
and the problem was GONE.

This should be easy to do without dropping a lot of cash, especially if 
you have acess to another distributor as you should be able to drop in 
another dizzy and see if it works better (or not).

Along those lines, there's a great Car Craft article on how to chose the 
right spark plug for your car and if you read the whole article and look 
at the pix, it shows how to read them...


But I'd be looking at your dizzy first.

> Dennis

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From mrankin.cox at cox.net  Wed May 12 22:06:28 2010
From: mrankin.cox at cox.net (Michael Rankin)
Date: Wed, 12 May 2010 23:06:28 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Miss Off Idle
Message-ID: <004801caf251$a9e4d720$fdae8560$@cox@cox.net>

Cris -- the dashpot oil was mentioned.  Might want to try 20W-50 in the
dashpots which will be a bit thicker and resistive to movement of the damper
at first application of the throttle. The resistance to upward movement
enriches the mixture momentarily and hopefully will prevent the stumble off
idle.  

 

Another thing to check is the temperature compensators are opening at near
the same time/temperature.  When they are cold the bypass air is blocked off
until the bimetalic band heats up and bends to unseat the conical rubber
seal.  When the conical rubber seal comes off its seat this allows more air
to pass around the throat and leans the mixture down a bit.  If they temp
compensators are opening up too soon it could be leaning out the mixture
before proper operating temperature is reached.  Good luck.

 

Take care,

Michael

______________

Date: Tue, 11 May 2010 16:38:58 -0700

From: Cris Hemingway <cris_tr6 at hotmail.com>

Subject: Re: [6pack] Miss Off Idle

 

I have the same problem, but with a Crane Electronic ignition.  Dwell isn't
in

the equation with this type of ignition system, as it can't be set (I
think).

I too have gone through all the obvious culprits, but still have a bit of a

stumble unless I get the revs up before releasing the clutch.

Any other suggestions?

Cris Hemingway

From osternd at copper.net  Fri May 14 06:29:52 2010
From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 05:29:52 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Miss off idle
Message-ID: <20100514052952.94EC6BBA@resin13.mta.everyone.net>

/PhzDYd: Permission denied

From gaf3 at charter.net  Fri May 14 07:33:31 2010
From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco)
Date: Fri, 14 May 2010 09:33:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Dreaded Thrust Washers in the Oil Pan
In-Reply-To: <4BE33109.5090208@charter.net>
References: <4BE33109.5090208@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4BED512B.7010405@charter.net>

Group
Thanks for all the advice on managing the thrust washer issue on this 
TR6 engine.
Following Geoff Byrne's advice, I fired up my trusty Atlas lathe and 
went to work.
I machined a counterbore in the scored cap to accept a new bronze full 
circle thrust washer also machined on the lathe.
The attachment to the cap will me made with brass countersunk machine 
screws.

Plan is to see if the rear thrust washers conform to the scored, but 
somewhat smooth, crank thrust surface.
The owner wants to drive it this summer.
Also monitor end play and pull the engine in the fall if it becomes 
excessive and grind the crank.
It's not all complete but making good progress.
Thanks again
Glenn

Glenn Franco wrote:
> Group
> I've been working on a friends 74 TR6 and we discovered lots of crank 
> end play.
> I checked the end play because he was complaining of hard shifts or 
> grinding while putting the trans in reverse.
> I removed the pan and found the thrust washers in the oil pan..
> I've run into large end play issues with the TR6's but this is the 
> first I've seen in the pan.
>
> Understanding that this is a common malady with the TR6, I ordered a 
> few sets of oversize thrust washers.
> Don't think there is enough material in a .025" oversize bearing to 
> fix the problem.
>
> I pulled the bearing cap and didn't see major wear in the thrust face 
> of the crank. I will need to do a closer inspection of the block
>
> Anyone out there seen a reasonable/simple fix for this problem?
>
> Thanks in advance
> Glenn Franco
> TR6's, 250 and Spit racer
> _______________________________________________
> fot at autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net

From ronniep at cox.net  Sun May 16 20:21:48 2010
From: ronniep at cox.net (Ronnie P)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 21:21:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Electric Cooling Fan
Message-ID: <007801caf567$b40a7020$1c1f5060$@net>

I am having overheating problems in stop and go traffic during hot summer
months in Louisiana.



I want to install an electric cooling fan for my 1976 TR6.



Moss sells a 14 fan kit for the TR6.   It appears to be a 14 Hayden 3690.



The TR6 radiator measures 16x16 1/2 and a 16 fan such as the Hayden 3700
or 3710 may not fit.



The dimensions for the 16 fan are 15 > x 16 >  and 13 7/8 x 14 > for the
14 fan.  There is plenty of room for the 14 fan.



Hayden also makes their 14 Ultra Cool # 3814.  It draws 28 amps on high and
13.8 amps on low.  I have a Bosch alternator that can handle the high
current draw. This may be more than I need.



The standard 14 fan draws 1050 CFM across a typical radiator and the  Ultra
Cool draws 1500 CFM on high and 1075 CFM on low. This may be more than I
need.



Has anyone used the 14 or 16 Hayden or other brand 14, 15, or 16 fan in
their TR6?



What were the results?



Suggestions?



Thanks,



Ronnie

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg]

From bratt at sasktel.net  Sun May 16 22:06:10 2010
From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed)
Date: Sun, 16 May 2010 22:06:10 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Electric Cooling Fan
References: <007801caf567$b40a7020$1c1f5060$@net>
Message-ID: <6BC39FE5BFA14E67BCAF88182E519519@willhuq4x0qsgd>

Ronnie:

I was recently looking over some of the TR6 parts I have on hand, and picked 
up a TR6 radiator from my spares pile.   It has had very little use, and I 
was surpised at it's light weight, which alerted me to the fact that many 
radiators currently in use in older cars are heavier than normal due to 
accumulated scale.  These radiators have put on some weight consisting of 
baked on minerals that partially plug the core of the radiator, and also act 
as insulation which reduces heat conductivity.  So, your over heating 
problem might not be entirely corrected by a new fan.  It might be time to 
consider a radiator replacement or a thorough  cleaning of your current 
radiator.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6  and 1970 spares TR6 

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May 17 07:10:25 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 09:10:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Electric Cooling Fan
In-Reply-To: <007801caf567$b40a7020$1c1f5060$@net>
References: <007801caf567$b40a7020$1c1f5060$@net>
Message-ID: <2A5519D2FB774C3D82A4F57A7109E305@laptopPC>

This is a common discussion in the 6-Pack Forum (www.6-pack.org) with a 
bunch of us going this route (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm). 
For those who didn't want to go with an aluminum radiator, they flushed the 
whole cooling system and had their stock radiator professionally boiled out 
and tested. This also gives you the opportunity to have a bung soldered in 
to the radiator to take an electric fan sensor. Many have installed Rick 
Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Fan_Eliminator.htm) which freed up room to 
put a 16" slim line puller fan behind the radiator. If your cooling system 
is in order, the electric fan will only run if you're stuck in traffic and 
moving at less then about 30 mph. If you're moving over 30-35 MPH, the fan 
should never come on.

Bob Danielson
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



--------------------------------------------------
From: "Ronnie P" <ronniep at cox.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 10:21 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Electric Cooling Fan

> I am having overheating problems in stop and go traffic during hot summer
> months in Louisiana.
>
>
>
> I want to install an electric cooling fan for my 1976 TR6.
>
>
>
> Moss sells a 14 fan kit for the TR6.   It appears to be a 14 Hayden 
> 3690.
>
>
>
> The TR6 radiator measures 16x16 1/2 and a 16 fan such as the Hayden 
> 3700
> or 3710 may not fit.
>
>
>
> The dimensions for the 16 fan are 15 > x 16 >  and 13 7/8 x 14 > for the
> 14 fan.  There is plenty of room for the 14 fan.
>
>
>
> Hayden also makes their 14 Ultra Cool # 3814.  It draws 28 amps on high 
> and
> 13.8 amps on low.  I have a Bosch alternator that can handle the high
> current draw. This may be more than I need.
>
>
>
> The standard 14 fan draws 1050 CFM across a typical radiator and the 
> Ultra
> Cool draws 1500 CFM on high and 1075 CFM on low. This may be more than I
> need.
>
>
>
> Has anyone used the 14 or 16 Hayden or other brand 14, 15, or 16 fan 
> in
> their TR6?
>
>
>
> What were the results?
>
>
>
> Suggestions?
>
>
>
> Thanks,
>
>
>
> Ronnie
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of 
> image001.jpg]
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 17 08:46:36 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 07:46:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Electric Cooling Fan
In-Reply-To: <007801caf567$b40a7020$1c1f5060$@net>
References: <007801caf567$b40a7020$1c1f5060$@net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B569130@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Ronnie:

	Before you go ripping your engine compartment a new one, let's make sure the
basics are covered.

	1. Is your radiator shroud in place and in good condition? That shroud is
there for a reason.
	2. Have you tried replacing your thermostat and radiator caps? They have been
known to fail.
	3. Are your hoses properly routed, and in good condition? No swelling or
leaking?
	4. Is your timing set correctly? - 10 BTDC with vacuum to the dizzy
disconnected and plugged.
	5. How is your mixture? Are your spark plugs a grayish tan color? If they are
white, your mixture is too lean, which will make the engine run hot and cost
you power.
	6. Is your coolant fresh and in good shape? No rusty goop visible?
	7. If all of the above are good, try reducing the amount of antifreeze to
25%. Water is a better coolant than antifreeze, and in your climate you do not
need minus 50F freeze protection. Do not use pure water, as anti freeze has
corrosion inhibitors that protect the cooling system.

	The cooling system on the TR6 is fairly stout, and if your engine is stock or
nearly stock, it should be up to the job for routine driving. I suspect that
if it is misbehaving, an electric fan will do little to correct problems you
are encountering. You may still wish to go to an electric fan for noise,
mileage and power considerations, but you should normally not need to modify
it because of overheating.

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ronnie P
Sent: Sunday, May 16, 2010 7:22 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Electric Cooling Fan

I am having overheating problems in stop and go traffic during hot summer
months in Louisiana.

I want to install an electric cooling fan for my 1976 TR6.

<snip>

Suggestions?

Thanks,

Ronnie

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon May 17 13:13:07 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 17 May 2010 19:13:07 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Electric Cooling Fan
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B569130@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <1403590148.25430401274123587575.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

B B B  B B B B B Before you go ripping your engine compartment a new one,
let's make sure the
basics are covered.

B B B B B B B B 1. Is your radiator shroud in place and in good condition?
That shroud is
there for a reason.
B B B B B B B B 2. Have you tried replacing your thermostat and radiator caps?
They have been
known to fail.
B B B B B B B B 3. Are your hoses properly routed, and in good condition? No
swelling or
leaking?
B B B B B B B B 4. Is your timing set correctly? - 10 BTDC with vacuum to the
dizzy
disconnected and plugged.
B B B B B B B B 5. How is your mixture? Are your spark plugs a grayish tan
color? If they are
white, your mixture is too lean, which will make the engine run hot and cost
you power.
B B B B B B B B 6. Is your coolant fresh and in good shape? No rusty goop
visible?
B B B B B B B B 7. If all of the above are good, try reducing the amount of
antifreeze to
25%. Water is a better coolant than antifreeze, and in your climate you do not
need minus 50F freeze protection. Do not use pure water, as anti freeze has
corrosion inhibitors that protect the cooling system.

B B B B B B B B The cooling system on the TR6 is fairly stout, and if your
engine is stock or
nearly stock, it should be up to the job for routine driving. I suspect that
if it is misbehaving, an electric fan will do little to correct problems you
are encountering. You may still wish to go to an electric fan for noise,
mileage and power considerations, but you should normally not need to modify
it because of overheating.






Vance has all the correct check points. Another item it could be is the water
pump. Run the car, with the rad cap off. Once the water has reached temp, the
thermostat should open and then the coolant solution should start to move. If
it does not then somewhere you have a blockage and or the impellar of the pump
is not working. The impellar can corode after years of use. The old ones where
made of brass, but the later ones of steel. TheyB can be replaced easily.

B B B B 

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Tue May 18 13:24:28 2010
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Tue, 18 May 2010 15:24:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Metering needles needed
Message-ID: <380-220105218192428218@earthlink.net>

Hello,

Does anyone have a couple of old adjustable TR6 Zenith-Stromberg metering needles on the shelf that they wouldn't mind parting with? The condition of the needles is irrelevant, I need the housing to put new needles in. 

In particular, I need the old-style needle housings, where the needle is retained with a roll pin (looks like a wire across the head of the needle if you look through the threaded end of the housing). The new ones have a machine-punched housing, and are not easily reused.

Thanks, Tom

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May 19 15:15:04 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 19 May 2010 16:15:04 -0500
Subject: [6pack] voltage regulator
Message-ID: <8B8C0500F023439686A9C653B66B99A5@ranteer.local>

good evening, all.

there is a company, recommended on a different list,
http://www.wiltonae.com/home/index.aspx, that does conversions of voltage
regulators.

does anyone have any experience with them?

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Fri May 21 05:24:36 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 07:24:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wheel refurb
Message-ID: <3D5620BD5E3949D8A3203C3D9E4958BA@Jerry2>

Before I have my old steel wheels powder coated, I'd like to have them trued
up and tested for breaks, leaks, etc. Does anyone have a source in the
Northeast? One guy locally does aluminum wheels and wants exorbitant money.

Jerry
'74 TR6 Mallard Green

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 21 08:57:38 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 09:57:38 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r
In-Reply-To: <7FF05A3325A9428D8891C5D526D28C10@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <FA4B6D1DD7614A96A53FE2AA0E317B3E@Toms><20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<7FF05A3325A9428D8891C5D526D28C10@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <A9DAF0EE220B4C27A6DB1BC40EA84448@ranteer.local>

are there any gotcha's in removing and replacing the tranny?  I remember 
doing it once before but I've slept since then . . .

I have to replace the ring gear :- (

is there a site that describes it?  or am I just dreading the work more than 
I should?

I know there are a bunch of bolts that hold it to the engine, and the 
starter is part of that.  and you have to disconnect the driveshaft.

I know - remove the seats, dash support, pull back the carpet, and remove 
the cover.

how about replacing the cover?  I seem to remember that being somewhat 
tricky.

any advice, hints, etc welcome. 

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May 21 09:54:43 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 11:54:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wheel refurb
In-Reply-To: <3D5620BD5E3949D8A3203C3D9E4958BA@Jerry2>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9958@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Jerry:

Here is a note I wrote back in 2005 when I had my rims done.

"I just sent my TR6 rims to www.rimandwheelworks.com for straightening and
powder coating. I sent 4 wobbly rusty rims off and have just received and
installed 3 very nice shiny straight rims. The look and straightness is
enormously improved. The tire shop spun them for me and they were very
straight, compared to the battered egg-shaped things I sent along.

So far almost all the highway vibration I have been experiencing is gone. An
enormous relief after years of fruitless balancing and avoiding specific
speeds.

I had my wheels sandblasted, trued and then powder-coated a gold colour on the
outside. They had to send the rims out for PC and it was a bit of a battle to
get them to accept it could be done at all. However, they seem to have found a
decent shop.

The total cost for me was $175/wheel. That is $100 for truing and $75 for
powder coat. The shop really wanted to paint the rims, but I forced them to
send them out. I'm very glad I did. However, I cannot report whether the paint
would have been part of the $100 original price.

I realise that I could have bought alloys for practically the same price, but
I really like the original look. So, for me the expense of $700 USD + shipping
has been worth it, but I'm very glad it wasn't worse."

2010 UPDATE - I realised a couple of years afterward that the shop had blasted
the rims nicely, but the powder-coating shop seems to have coated only the
fronts and the interior. The shiny silver backing was bare steel, not
aluminium-coloured paint as I had expected. Thus, over the past couple of
years, all the back of the rims turned rusty brown. One at a time, I have been
wire wheeling them and coating with POR and then top-coating. That has
produced good results. Nevertheless, for the price it was a real shock to have
to do. I recall a couple of years ago that someone had written to me having
experienced the same problem.

Cheers,

Mark
72 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jerry C Shaw
Sent: May 21, 2010 7:25 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Wheel refurb

Before I have my old steel wheels powder coated, I'd like to have them trued
up and tested for breaks, leaks, etc. Does anyone have a source in the
Northeast? One guy locally does aluminum wheels and wants exorbitant money.

Jerry
'74 TR6 Mallard Green

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May 21 10:04:38 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 09:04:38 -0700
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r
In-Reply-To: <A9DAF0EE220B4C27A6DB1BC40EA84448@ranteer.local>
References: <FA4B6D1DD7614A96A53FE2AA0E317B3E@Toms><20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<7FF05A3325A9428D8891C5D526D28C10@BOBSNEWPC>
	<A9DAF0EE220B4C27A6DB1BC40EA84448@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B6A8BF3@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Oliver:

	Most of it is so straight forward you will very few if any hints, IMHO. The
only hints I would offer are -

	Don't omit the two 3/8" dowels or bolts used to align the tranny to the
engine.

	Getting the tranny re-mated to the engine is difficult. I use some 4" bolts,
get the tranny close to the engine and then install the bolts at approximately
11 and 5 o'clock. I use these bolts to guide me as I wiggle the tranny closer
and closer to the engine. I pause occasionally to tighten them so that the
tranny cannot slip backwards. Makes mating the two together much easier.

	All the bell housing bolt heads point forward, with the threaded end of the
bolts pointing towards the rear. This is factory correct, and makes the
finished job look like you knew what you were doing. =:-o

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver

are there any gotcha's in removing and replacing the tranny?  I remember
doing it once before but I've slept since then . . .

<snip>

any advice, hints, etc welcome.

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Fri May 21 10:18:35 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 12:18:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r
In-Reply-To: <A9DAF0EE220B4C27A6DB1BC40EA84448@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D995B@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi Oliver:

I've just done it without removing the emergency brake handle, but it is much
easier if you do.

And of course, the required blood sacrifice will be collected whether you will
or no.

Cheers,

Mark

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: May 21, 2010 10:58 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r

are there any gotcha's in removing and replacing the tranny?  I remember
doing it once before but I've slept since then . . .

I have to replace the ring gear :- (

is there a site that describes it?  or am I just dreading the work more than
I should?

I know there are a bunch of bolts that hold it to the engine, and the
starter is part of that.  and you have to disconnect the driveshaft.

I know - remove the seats, dash support, pull back the carpet, and remove
the cover.

how about replacing the cover?  I seem to remember that being somewhat
tricky.

any advice, hints, etc welcome.

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri May 21 13:53:42 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 19:53:42 GMT
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r
Message-ID: <COL123-DS152BCAA7F9CBA2254ECA40F4E40@phx.gbl>

Oliver---Following the Bentley or other service manual is always a good idea, unless youve done this job countless times. A few things aren't mentioned tho.  
One would be to run a soft wire from the clutch (three holed) operating shaft to one of the bell housing bolt holes. This would keep the fork from pushing the throwout bearing off the front cover, during lining up the input shaft to the clutch disc splines.

Another would be to secure the inside of the clutch slave cylinder so its piston won't  drift out and spill its contents.

Using tapered pins or phillips screwdriver (shafts) to align the tranny cover to the captive nuts helps in getting these umpteen bolts started. 
I "Gorilla glued" the rubber seals to the cover the last time I had the cover off. This aids in keeping the seals in place, as you wiggle the cover on.

Finally, placing a jack under the engine pan before taking off the tranny should keep the vertical alignment between the two units. This helps a lot when trying to stab the pilot shaft into the clutch and pilot bushing.

Dick

From tr6 at atlasok.com  Fri May 21 16:08:58 2010
From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 17:08:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r hints
Message-ID: <00e101caf932$43bbc2a0$cb3347e0$@com>

Here are a couple of hints that might come in handy.

 

Center the transmission to the bell housing using two 3/8 shank bolts, one
up on the right, the other 180 degrees in the lower left area.  This is a
tight press fit.  Then put the rest of the 5/16 shank bolts the rest of the
way around, with the exception of the starter bolts of course.  This will
true up the transmission to the crank shaft and reduce the wear on the pilot
bushing and front transmission bearing.  

 

The other thing is to pack as much grease into the throw out bearing as you
can.  A lot of folks switched to Gunst bearings a while back because of bad
service from original types.  You can eliminate a lot of those troubles by
adding grease to the original style bearing.

 

If you have no teeth missing from the existing ring gear consider turning it
so the bevel on the teeth are toward the starter and use it.  Many times the
ring gear will just get pushed off the flywheel by the starter hitting it
repeatedly.  I have had no trouble with the cars that I have done this to.

 

John Phillips 
Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK 
Green Country Triumphs 
 <http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com> http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 21 18:44:52 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 21 May 2010 19:44:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS152BCAA7F9CBA2254ECA40F4E40@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS152BCAA7F9CBA2254ECA40F4E40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <543557894A2E421890EE52413BA39CFC@ranteer.local>

thanks for all the suggestions!

I've consolidated them all and posted them.

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/index.html#update

now I think its time to head out to the garage.

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat May 22 09:09:05 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sat, 22 May 2010 08:09:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] tranny r&r
In-Reply-To: <543557894A2E421890EE52413BA39CFC@ranteer.local>
References: <COL123-DS152BCAA7F9CBA2254ECA40F4E40@phx.gbl>
	<543557894A2E421890EE52413BA39CFC@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <a06240802c81da3bc4f73@[192.168.2.4]>

Just caught up on the thread ... a transmission jack ... is extremely 
useful  ... got mine from Harbor Freight for around $80 ... money 
well spent.


>thanks for all the suggestions!
>
>I've consolidated them all and posted them.


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From William.Couzelis at CNA.com  Sun May 23 12:39:52 2010
From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 13:39:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Idling Problem
Message-ID: <F10B7CB69872F54E824670A731545FFEC630927D@E2K7CLSTB.cna.com>

I have a 1976 TR-6 with all of the original emission controls in place.  It
starts OK and will idle initially without a problem.  However, after using the
accelerator and letting off, the idle will drop and the car will stall unless
the choke is pulled out.  The carburators were rebuilt, the mixture screws
were adjusted and we played a little with the timing, with no change.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.

Bill Couzelis

NOTICE:  This e-mail message, including any attachments and appended messages,
is for the sole use of the intended recipients and may contain confidential
and legally privileged information.
If you are not the intended recipient, any review, dissemination,
distribution, copying, storage or other use of all or any portion of this
message is strictly prohibited.
If you received this message in error, please immediately notify the sender by
reply e-mail and delete this message in its entirety.

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun May 23 15:25:45 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 17:25:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
Message-ID: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>

Hello all,
A friend of mine just bought a 1970 TR6 that has the Moss SU upgrade. There
are two brass tubes (one ea carb) coming what appears to be out of the fuel
bowls. They are open to the air with nothing attached.

I was told they are over flow tubes and nothing needs to be attached. If you
put your fingers over the opening of each tube, the car will stall out. It
appears that they have a unction. If this is the case, I can only assume that
at the very least there should be some kind of filter mechanism.

Is anyone familiar with the Moss SU upgrade and what these tubes are for and
how they should be set up?

Side note - the car idles at about 1100, has a Pertonix coil and electronic
ignition.

Thanks,
Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun May 23 15:49:56 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 17:49:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
In-Reply-To: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>
References: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <201005231749.57516.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, May 23, 2010 05:25:45 pm Alex wrote:
> Hello all,
> A friend of mine just bought a 1970 TR6 that has the Moss SU upgrade. There
> are two brass tubes (one ea carb) coming what appears to be out of the fuel
> bowls. They are open to the air with nothing attached.
> 
> I was told they are over flow tubes and nothing needs to be attached. If
> you put your fingers over the opening of each tube, the car will stall
> out. It appears that they have a unction. If this is the case, I can only
> assume that at the very least there should be some kind of filter
> mechanism.
> 
> Is anyone familiar with the Moss SU upgrade and what these tubes are for
> and how they should be set up?
> 
> Side note - the car idles at about 1100, has a Pertonix coil and electronic
> ignition.
> 
> Thanks,
> Alex Manzo
> 72 TR6
> 59 TR3A
Alex,

Funny thing, I just received a set of Hitachi SU carbs from Paltech  for my 72 
TR6 project and Jeff describes those tubes as float overflow similar to what you 
describe. I plan to connect them with tubing and a "Y" and route them to the 
carbon canister gas tank vent tube. But it that causes a problem I will just 
route the tube to air somewhere safe away from the manifolds.

Those tubes are not on my HS6s I use on my 63 TR4. There is an overflow but if 
there is a float problem gas just comes out of the top of the float.

Bob

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun May 23 16:01:21 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 18:01:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
In-Reply-To: <201005231749.57516.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>
	<201005231749.57516.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <BB5E2D5B05F747F2BC31C408814800F2@AlexPC>

Hi Bob,
When these were first put on, gas flowed heavily from these tubes. The 
original owner needed to install a pressure regulator between the mechanical 
fuel pump and the carbs. The pump was putting out 6 lbs of pressure and the 
carbs required 1-1.5 lbs forcing gas out of these tubes. They appear to work 
find now, but safety is a key issue as they did come close to leaking on the 
exhaust manifold. Just does not seem right.

I like the carbon canister venting, except hers was removed. My TR3 tubes 
are vented back into the air intake filter where it is consumed back through 
the carb opening.

Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 5:49 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6


> On Sunday, May 23, 2010 05:25:45 pm Alex wrote:
>> Hello all,
>> A friend of mine just bought a 1970 TR6 that has the Moss SU upgrade. 
>> There
>> are two brass tubes (one ea carb) coming what appears to be out of the 
>> fuel
>> bowls. They are open to the air with nothing attached.
>>
>> I was told they are over flow tubes and nothing needs to be attached. If
>> you put your fingers over the opening of each tube, the car will stall
>> out. It appears that they have a unction. If this is the case, I can only
>> assume that at the very least there should be some kind of filter
>> mechanism.
>>
>> Is anyone familiar with the Moss SU upgrade and what these tubes are for
>> and how they should be set up?
>>
>> Side note - the car idles at about 1100, has a Pertonix coil and 
>> electronic
>> ignition.
>>
>> Thanks,
>> Alex Manzo
>> 72 TR6
>> 59 TR3A
> Alex,
>
> Funny thing, I just received a set of Hitachi SU carbs from Paltech  for 
> my 72
> TR6 project and Jeff describes those tubes as float overflow similar to 
> what you
> describe. I plan to connect them with tubing and a "Y" and route them to 
> the
> carbon canister gas tank vent tube. But it that causes a problem I will 
> just
> route the tube to air somewhere safe away from the manifolds.
>
> Those tubes are not on my HS6s I use on my 63 TR4. There is an overflow 
> but if
> there is a float problem gas just comes out of the top of the float.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun May 23 16:48:03 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 18:48:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
In-Reply-To: <BB5E2D5B05F747F2BC31C408814800F2@AlexPC>
References: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>
	<201005231749.57516.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<BB5E2D5B05F747F2BC31C408814800F2@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <201005231848.04950.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, May 23, 2010 06:01:21 pm Alex wrote:
> Hi Bob,
> When these were first put on, gas flowed heavily from these tubes. The
> original owner needed to install a pressure regulator between the
> mechanical fuel pump and the carbs. The pump was putting out 6 lbs of
> pressure and the carbs required 1-1.5 lbs forcing gas out of these tubes.
> They appear to work find now, but safety is a key issue as they did come
> close to leaking on the exhaust manifold. Just does not seem right.
> 
> I like the carbon canister venting, except hers was removed. My TR3 tubes
> are vented back into the air intake filter where it is consumed back
> through the carb opening.
> 
> Alex

Alex,

I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Facet electronic. I use a regulator 
set at 2 PSI. 

I use the same setup on my 3 and 4. The 3 with SU H6 and the 4 with HS6. All 
set at 2 PSI. Both the 3 and 4 have run with out a problem for the 3 years 
since I switched to electronic fuel pumps.

I don't expect any problems with the 6 with the same setup.

The carbs will have to sit in their boxes for now as the engine is all masked 
up while I continue on the body work/paint etc. 

Bob

From jb_2email at yahoo.com  Mon May 24 00:47:42 2010
From: jb_2email at yahoo.com (J B)
Date: Sun, 23 May 2010 23:47:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
In-Reply-To: <201005231848.04950.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <181148.21620.qm@web57208.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

My 240z has the SU's with the same tubes. They covered with fuel ine tubes that run to the air filter housing. When people us K&N filters they either route the fuei over flow lined to the K&N filter or run it below the exhaust manifold. When I first bought the car (and was driving it home from the PO's house) there were short lines attached. The carbs shot out some gas that it hit the hood and dripped onto the manifold. This started a small fire under the hood. I noticed the paint bubbling on the hood and pulled over to find the rubber lines on fire. Lucky I noticed it. 

So do not drive it until routed past the manifold or into the air filter.

Good luck,

JohnB
Chicago

74 TR6

--- On Sun, 5/23/10, Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
> To: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
> Cc: "*Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Date: Sunday, May 23, 2010, 5:48 PM
> On Sunday, May 23, 2010 06:01:21 pm
> Alex wrote:
> > Hi Bob,
> > When these were first put on, gas flowed heavily from
> these tubes. The
> > original owner needed to install a pressure regulator
> between the
> > mechanical fuel pump and the carbs. The pump was
> putting out 6 lbs of
> > pressure and the carbs required 1-1.5 lbs forcing gas
> out of these tubes.
> > They appear to work find now, but safety is a key
> issue as they did come
> > close to leaking on the exhaust manifold. Just does
> not seem right.
> > 
> > I like the carbon canister venting, except hers was
> removed. My TR3 tubes
> > are vented back into the air intake filter where it is
> consumed back
> > through the carb opening.
> > 
> > Alex
> 
> Alex,
> 
> I replaced the mechanical fuel pump with a Facet
> electronic. I use a regulator 
> set at 2 PSI. 
> 
> I use the same setup on my 3 and 4. The 3 with SU H6 and
> the 4 with HS6. All 
> set at 2 PSI. Both the 3 and 4 have run with out a problem
> for the 3 years 
> since I switched to electronic fuel pumps.
> 
> I don't expect any problems with the 6 with the same
> setup.
> 
> The carbs will have to sit in their boxes for now as the
> engine is all masked 
> up while I continue on the body work/paint etc. 
> 
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jb_2email at yahoo.com

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Mon May 24 08:35:13 2010
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 07:35:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
In-Reply-To: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <783749.43794.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Alex:
 
I had this set up on my 72 TR6 (before I went to a Moss supercharger kit). I
will confirm that they are vents and it would be a good idea to run hoses from
them away from the manifold.
I know this to be the case because I had an incident with a clog in one carb
and fuel was spurting out of the vent all over the exhaust manifold. Quite
exciting! Because of that I would recommend against venting to the canister.
Better to have the fuel on the ground than a canister overflowing with it. I
routed my hose to the front of the driver side of the engine bay.
 
In case you're wondering about the Moss blower, yes it does provide better
power, but a very nice side benefit is the improved drivability provided by
the modern Holley carb. Start up is much easier, often without need of the
choke. Fuel enconomy is no worse than before the conversion. A very nice set
up and well engineered.
 
Jim Jones
Jeff City, MO
--- On Sun, 5/23/10, Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net> wrote:


From: Alex <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
To: "*Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Date: Sunday, May 23, 2010, 4:25 PM


Hello all,
A friend of mine just bought a 1970 TR6 that has the Moss SU upgrade. There
are two brass tubes (one ea carb) coming what appears to be out of the fuel
bowls. They are open to the air with nothing attached.

I was told they are over flow tubes and nothing needs to be attached. If you
put your fingers over the opening of each tube, the car will stall out. It
appears that they have a unction. If this is the case, I can only assume that
at the very least there should be some kind of filter mechanism.

Is anyone familiar with the Moss SU upgrade and what these tubes are for and
how they should be set up?

Side note - the car idles at about 1100, has a Pertonix coil and electronic
ignition.

Thanks,
Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon May 24 09:07:27 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 11:07:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR TRIUMPH OWNERS
Message-ID: <2da4e.11ed00f3.392bf02f@aol.com>

Hey Listers,
I thought I would share this from the NCTA TRCoaster June Newsletter.   My 
good buddy Ken has found a lot of stuff from his 76 TR6 including issue #1 
of  the 6-PACK newsletter.
Enjoy,
Darrell 
 
 
 
 
TEN COMMANDMENTS FOR TRIUMPH
OWNERS
Due to a sudden overheating  problem with the TR6, I
was looking thru my parts boxes and found a copy  of
the VTR and Triumph Sports Owners Association
newsletter for Mar/April  1983. It was mailed to the
previous owner of my TR and the postage was  11
cents. That's note worthy in its self. As I was looking
thru the  newsletter I found the following 10
Commandments:
1. Thou shalt not store  thy Triumph out-of-doors,
except for thy wife's modern iron.
2. Thou shalt  not covet thy neighbor's Triumph,
nor his garage, nor his battery  charger.
3. Thou shalt not love thy Triumph more than thy
wife and  children, as much, but not more.
4. Thou shalt not read thy English Channel  on
company time, lest thy employer make it
impossible to continue thy car  payments.
5. Thou shalt not despise thy neighbor's 240Z, nor
his Mazda,  nor even his 1948 MGTC.
6. Thou shalt not deceive thy wife into  thinking
that thee is taking her for a romantic Sunday
drive when, indeed,  thou art going out to look at
another Triumph.
7. Thou shalt not allow thy  daughters nor thy sons
to get married during the hold days of a  VTR
Convention.
8. Thou shalt not tell thy spouse the entire cost  of
thy latest restoration, at least not all at the
same time.
9. Thou  shalt not promise thy wife a new addition
to the house and then use it to  store Triumphs
in the attic.
10. Thou shalt not buy thy wife a floor jack  for
Christmas, unless it is for her Triumph.

Another piece of Triumph Significa that I found in the
newsletter was  the following: Did you know that a TR-2
front apron was used as a model for  the face of E.T.?
Ken Kreiner

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 24 10:20:22 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 09:20:22 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
In-Reply-To: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>
References: <B79EF20BDEFE4DD4B94C1A8987DF398A@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B6A92E9@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Alex:

	Lots of people have already chimed in, but that never stopped me from
irritating everyone with my $0.02

	The tubes provide atmospheric pressure reference for the float bowl. The
Zenith carbs have the exact same tube on them, which are routed to the carbon
canister. If the carbon canister is present, you should route them to the
canister in a manner identical to the Zeniths.
	It is dangerous to leave them simply open. Dirt and what not can enter, and
if the float ever sticks there will be fuel pouring out of there as fast as
the fuel pump can pump it. The float stuck on my Mini, and I was lucky I did
not burn the house down by the time I figured out the origin of the gassy
smell. The fuel of course went all over the hot exhaust manifold. Yikes!
	If the carbon canister is gone, you might consider connecting them to the now
unused fuel tank vent line. If they malfunction they will at least push the
fuel back into the fuel tank. With this scheme, you will need to provide a
small vent hole in the fuel tank cap to allow air to be displaced.

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alex

Hello all,
A friend of mine just bought a 1970 TR6 that has the Moss SU upgrade. There
are two brass tubes (one ea carb) coming what appears to be out of the fuel
bowls. They are open to the air with nothing attached.

I was told they are over flow tubes and nothing needs to be attached. If you
put your fingers over the opening of each tube, the car will stall out. It
appears that they have a unction. If this is the case, I can only assume that
at the very least there should be some kind of filter mechanism.

<snip>

Thanks,
Alex Manzo

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon May 24 13:17:23 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 19:17:23 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6
Message-ID: <COL123-DS8D111A74E50A38CF24FCDF4E70@phx.gbl>

Alex---As others have written. these tubes are vents for the float bowls. If blocked, the engine will be starved of fuel. The best solution would be to connect the two together, and route a hose to an air filter housing. You may have to add a hose nipple here.  

None of this should cause or correct the fast engine idle you now have. If you can't back off on the fast idle screws, take a look at the timing being too far advanced.  No vacuum line should be connected to the distributor canister.

Dick
SU HD8 


-----Original Message-----
From: Alex
Sent: Sunday, May 23, 2010 2:25 PM
To: *Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] Moss SU Upgrade for TR6

Hello all,
A friend of mine just bought a 1970 TR6 that has the Moss SU upgrade. There
are two brass tubes (one ea carb) coming what appears to be out of the fuel
bowls. They are open to the air with nothing attached.

I was told they are over flow tubes and nothing needs to be attached. If you
put your fingers over the opening of each tube, the car will stall out. It
appears that they have a unction. If this is the case, I can only assume that
at the very least there should be some kind of filter mechanism.

Is anyone familiar with the Moss SU upgrade and what these tubes are for and
how they should be set up?

Side note - the car idles at about 1100, has a Pertonix coil and electronic
ignition.

Thanks,
Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Mon May 24 18:55:30 2010
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 00:55:30 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor Question
Message-ID: <BAY150-w42EEA7F4A3D77FE9DC5A379FE80@phx.gbl>

	Hi list,	This evening I was playing around with the carburetor linkage to try
to reduce some of the play out of throttle linkage/ throttle linkage bracket.
I came up feeling that the slop was supposed to be there due to the way the
linkage came together.         I also found that the front carburetor piston
was noticeably harder to push up than the rear piston and whereas the rear
piston came down smoothly with a click, the front piston came down slowly with
no click and actually hung up once or twice.  The dashpots had equal amounts
of oil and I really couldn't find reason for the difficulty even after reading
up and looking at the Buckeye Triumphs carb section.  	Can anyone suggest a
cause/cure?  As always your collective help is appreciated.
	            Bob Rochlin                     '72 TR6
_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon May 24 19:28:28 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 24 May 2010 21:28:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor Question
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w42EEA7F4A3D77FE9DC5A379FE80@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY150-w42EEA7F4A3D77FE9DC5A379FE80@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <325E13B957D146BC9D2C04545BA43170@Robert>

It has been my experience that there might be an issue with the needle.
Under a magnifying glass look at the needle to see if there is any wear on
it. After that check to see if the needle is straight. Take the needle out
of the piston. Roll the big end on a known flat surface (i.e. glass) and
watch the needle. Any slight out of round fluctuation can be your cause. For
the unit that drops with a click, sounds like a loss of damper fluid. Also,
just out of interest try switching the pistons and see if it makes a
difference. When doing this does the one that clicks, still does it and the
one that sticks, does it still stick?

You might also want to clean the surfaces of the piston and the inner walls
of the carburetor. Even the slightest bit of dirt can make the piston stick.

DISCLAIMER: This is in my opinion as in IMHO. I am just providing free
advice so take it as you wish and it's not worth suing me because the
government took it all already!

From r_rochlin at hotmail.com  Tue May 25 07:16:23 2010
From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 13:16:23 +0000
Subject: [6pack] carburetor problem
Message-ID: <BAY150-w357B27E9651E6D7D3DA0739FE80@phx.gbl>

Update:  I took apart the carburetors this morning and found, ironically, that
the one that was sticking had a torn diaphragm.  the tear had allowed crud to
get sucked between the piston and carburetor cylinder walls and gunk up
causing the piston to stick.    I gotta tell ya that the car has been running
great, I hope that fixing the carburetor doesn't screw it up...	Thanks for
your help.	Bob        '72 TR6
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your
inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Tue May 25 08:16:02 2010
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 09:16:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
References: <1825730726-1273175903-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1757119751-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <25C08AA6433A4EB59E6DDEFE2B2ECECC@Dell320>

It's the fork pin according to my mechanic.

I'll probably have him replace the floor panels while the tranny is out.

I will continue to drive it until it gets difficult to shift gears. Then 
I'll
address the problem. Right now it shifts just fine.

Fluid level is holding ok for now and I'm keeping a close eye on it.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lfm614 at aol.com>
To: "Stuart Thompson" <stuartt at tlthompson.com>; "TR-6 list" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 06, 2010 3:03 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] clutch pedal click


> My guess is the fork pin.
>
> ------Original Message------
> From: Stuart Thompson
> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
> To: TR-6 list
> Subject: [6pack] clutch pedal click
> Sent: May 6, 2010 1:37 PM
>
> Each time I release the clutch pedal I feel a slight click. What's about 
> to
> fail?
> _______________________________________________

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue May 25 12:50:19 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 11:50:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Carb Damper piston issue
Message-ID: <353007.47102.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

When I first started tinkering with the carbs on my car many years ago I had a
similar problem in which  a damper piston was binding.  It seemed that somehow
when I screwed the four screws on the top down the top wasn't seating exactly
straight.  I finally solved the problem by continually working the piston up
and down while tightening the screws.  I have not had this problem on any
of the many other carbs I have worked on since then so I'm not sure what
caused it that one time,  It could have been a carb needle as someone
suggested but once I got rid of the hang up it worked just fine.  YMMV.

Mike
Lunsford, 1970 TR6 

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Tue May 25 13:42:48 2010
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 12:42:48 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Bumper Re-chromed
Message-ID: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F3B89DCE6DA@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>

My re-chromed TR6 front bumper may be ready this week.  I'm not holding my
breath.  It was promised in 3 weeks, but now has been over 9.

Is there anything in particular the untrained eye can look for as a tale tell
sign of either a good job or a bad job?


Mike
Top down driving in sunny Oregon   ...   someday

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 25 16:13:35 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 25 May 2010 18:13:35 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Bumper Re-chromed
In-Reply-To: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F3B89DCE6DA@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>
References: <0D5BA8AE8E5942448F2C84EF34995F2F3B89DCE6DA@EXCH2.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1005251810040.27699@isis.mit.edu>

If the chrome is peeling off, it's a bad job.

:-)

Good chrome has a very smooth finish and the underyling metal should have 
been straight to start with so you should see no "wavyness" on a good or 
excellent chrom job.

If the shop you work with is 100% honest, they'll tell you to paint the 
back side of the bumper so it doesn't rust. Really. the chrome plating is 
very, very thin and rust can start back there because it's not buffed out 
like the side you see and there's lots of nooks and crannies where rust 
can start.

The adage "you get what you pay for" applies here. Except you also have to 
pay for any possible EPA cleanup.

:-0

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 26 15:20:10 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 26 May 2010 17:20:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Len Renkenberger's Hub Manual
Message-ID: <D8DEC1CDFDEC4919A87FF17DED50E39B@BobPC>

A few months ago I announced that Len Renkenberger & Jim Matos asked Paul 
Rego and I if we'd be interested in hosting Len's Six-Tech Manual on our web 
sites.... which we did. At the time there was much discussion about adding 
Len's Hub Manual as rebuilding hubs require some special tools and 
knowledge, plus the hubs are all 35+ years old and maybe shouldn't be 
rebuilt. Len decided that he's rather share the information with everyone so 
the Hub Manual has been added to both sites.

My site - http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/6-tech-Manuals.htm

Paul's Site - http://www.74tr6.com/6-tech.htm

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From rlambour at comcast.net  Thu May 27 19:14:26 2010
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard Lambour)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 21:14:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake lines and PDWA switch
Message-ID: <7A804515A1A54354910F85AB5AF234C9@LAMBOUR>

Hi,

 

I've been looking for replacement brake piping/lines for my 1970 TR-6 which
is a frame off restoration right now.  I have a couple of questions:

 

1.	My car is left hand drive (US) but does not appear to have been
fitted with a PDWA switch - we can't find any of the hardware on the car.
Is this something that would not have appeared on the 1970 cars?  It appears
in the Moss and TRF parts lists.
2.	Is there more than one manufacturer of pre-bent brake lines for the
TR-6?  

 

Thanks very much!



 

Rick Lambour

1970 TR-6

From vcolper at yahoo.com  Thu May 27 19:19:52 2010
From: vcolper at yahoo.com (Victor Colon)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 18:19:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
Message-ID: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Anyone out there tried the DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT sold
on ebay. 
I was about to have my stock strombergs rebuilt but came across
these on ebay. They seem like a pretty good deal for the price...less than a
profesional rebuild on the stocks.

Any comments?
 
Victor

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu May 27 20:17:42 2010
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 27 May 2010 19:17:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <978851.80144.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Classic Motorsports magazine had an article on them a few years ago. They
installed a set on a TR6, plus some other mods; 9.2 compression, cam, ignition
etc. They seemed to like them but I don't know of anyone who uses them. Here
is a link to the article: http://classicmotorsports.net/articles/six-pack/
 
Cheers.
Jim

--- On Thu, 5/27/10, Victor Colon <vcolper at yahoo.com> wrote:


From: Victor Colon <vcolper at yahoo.com>
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, May 27, 2010, 8:19 PM


Anyone out there tried the DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT sold
on ebay.
I was about to have my stock strombergs rebuilt but came across
these on ebay. They seem like a pretty good deal for the price...less than a
profesional rebuild on the stocks.

Any comments?

Victor
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May 28 06:21:44 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 08:21:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <201005280821.49928.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, May 27, 2010 09:19:52 pm Victor Colon wrote:
> Anyone out there tried the DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT sold
> on ebay.
> I was about to have my stock strombergs rebuilt but came across
> these on ebay. They seem like a pretty good deal for the price...less than
> a profesional rebuild on the stocks.
> 
> Any comments?
> 
> Victor
Victor,

There is a thread on the 6-pack forum about this setup.

http://www.6-
pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=10654&highlight=weber+mchh

I thought about it for awhile for my 72 TR6 project but decided in the end to 
go with the Hitachi SU setup offered by Jeff at Paltech.

I am very familiar with SU H6 on my 58 TR3 and HS6 on my 63 TR4 so I didn't 
want to bother with the strombergs and Jeff says the Hitachi setup will breath 
a bit better than the HS6 setup.

For me simple is better.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri May 28 06:25:40 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 08:25:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake lines and PDWA switch
In-Reply-To: <7A804515A1A54354910F85AB5AF234C9@LAMBOUR>
References: <7A804515A1A54354910F85AB5AF234C9@LAMBOUR>
Message-ID: <201005280825.41221.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, May 27, 2010 09:14:26 pm Richard Lambour wrote:
> Hi,
> 
> 
> 
> I've been looking for replacement brake piping/lines for my 1970 TR-6 which
> is a frame off restoration right now.  I have a couple of questions:
> 
> 
> 
> 1.	My car is left hand drive (US) but does not appear to have been
> fitted with a PDWA switch - we can't find any of the hardware on the car.
> Is this something that would not have appeared on the 1970 cars?  It
> appears in the Moss and TRF parts lists.
> 2.	Is there more than one manufacturer of pre-bent brake lines for the
> TR-6?
> 
> 
> 
> Thanks very much!
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Rick Lambour
> 
> 1970 TR-6
Rick,

Your 70 6 should have a PDWA switch mounted just below the mc. 2 pipes exit 
the mc on the left and enter the PDWA switch. 2 pipes exit the PDWA on the 
right, one goes to the front brakes and the other to the rear breaks. The 
switch is brass with a single push on connector to the brake warning light on 
the top.

Bob

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Fri May 28 06:31:16 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 08:31:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF seat belts in a wedge
Message-ID: <BAY123-W13EB9FE2203C042490AF3EBAEB0@phx.gbl>

TRF has seat belts on sale. Has anybody installed a set in a TR7 or TR8? How
did they work out for you?



Thanks,

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832
6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May 28 08:17:18 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 07:17:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 brake lines and PDWA switch
In-Reply-To: <7A804515A1A54354910F85AB5AF234C9@LAMBOUR>
References: <7A804515A1A54354910F85AB5AF234C9@LAMBOUR>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AE4B6@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Richard:

	While it is possible that someone removed it, it is highly unlikely. The
pipes from the master cylinder connect directly to the PDWA, so one cannot
simply remove it and then use the car. Oh, I suppose that someone could remove
it and engineer some unions from the M/C to the brake lines, but there would
be evidence that it had been present. Of course if someone were willing to
fabricate custom brake lines then all bets are off.
	I used the cupronickel lines sold by Moss, and they worked great. You do not
need a tubing bender, simply bend them gently by hand to get professional
looking results. My only gripe is that they are not the correct color - they
are copper colored instead of steel colored. But they have been flawless in
use, and they can't rust.

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Richard Lambour

Hi,

I've been looking for replacement brake piping/lines for my 1970 TR-6 which
is a frame off restoration right now.  I have a couple of questions:

1.My car is left hand drive (US) but does not appear to have been
fitted with a PDWA switch - we can't find any of the hardware on the car.
Is this something that would not have appeared on the 1970 cars?  It appears
in the Moss and TRF parts lists.
2.Is there more than one manufacturer of pre-bent brake lines for the
TR-6?

Thanks very much!
Rick Lambour

From ron at rvar.net  Fri May 28 08:56:45 2010
From: ron at rvar.net (ron)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 09:56:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C98C9FEE53164557BF39FC01CC923E0C@RVAR>

Victor,

I'm not sure about the Weber carbs, however, if you are going to take care 
of the poor flow characteristic of the TR6 head, it seems you would want to 
put a better intake manifold on in order to give the gas/air mixture a 
straighter shot at the intake valve.The Good triple carb intake does that 
and the Strombergs or the SU's are a lot easier to tune.

Ron Harrison
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Victor Colon" <vcolper at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 8:19 PM
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT


> Anyone out there tried the DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT sold
> on ebay.
> I was about to have my stock strombergs rebuilt but came across
> these on ebay. They seem like a pretty good deal for the price...less than 
> a
> profesional rebuild on the stocks.
>
> Any comments?
>
> Victor
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgh at vvm.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May 28 11:14:45 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 10:14:45 -0700
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AE5CF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Looks like a high quality kit, and I would expect it to work well, unlike the
Weber down draft conversion with its flow restricting "swan neck" manifolds.
	Webers are superior to the Zeniths (and SUs) because they inject the fuel in
the center of the air stream, which yields a more uniform fuel mixture. The
benefits are most evident at higher RPM on tuned engines, but are very real.
	My one concern would be resale value, as modded cars typically are worth less
than stockers, but it is your car so do what you want. Me, I prefer the stock
look.
	I checked out the classic motorsports article on the conversion and it looks
like a valid set of data, although I am a bit puzzled. Stock was 74 RWHP which
seems low, should be about 90(?) but then the car may well have been a bit
tired. Then they modded the car, got the 0-60 to 8.4 seconds or so and said
that they had 100RWHP. This too seems a bit low to me for the HP number.
	Other than that, looks groovy.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Victor Colon
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 6:20 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT

Anyone out there tried the DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT sold
on eBay.
I was about to have my stock strombergs rebuilt but came across
these on ebay. They seem like a pretty good deal for the price...less than a
professional rebuild on the stocks.

Any comments?

Victor

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri May 28 11:42:11 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 17:42:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AE5CF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AE5CF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF70BF@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I think the stock motor is good for 80 rwhp, maybe less for the later cars and
even less for a tired motor or one that is out of whack. The 100HP looks about
right for what they did. They were a bit conservative with the compression
ratio and they could easily have gotten 110 rwhp out of it which is about
right for a very drivable fast street car on pump gas and comparable with the
early PI cars.

I don't fret about these mods, they are easily reversed and you can go back to
the standard look in a few hours if you kept the bits.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 1:15 PM
To: Victor Colon; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT

	Looks like a high quality kit, and I would expect it to work well, unlike
the
Weber down draft conversion with its flow restricting "swan neck" manifolds.
	Webers are superior to the Zeniths (and SUs) because they inject the fuel in
the center of the air stream, which yields a more uniform fuel mixture. The
benefits are most evident at higher RPM on tuned engines, but are very real.
	My one concern would be resale value, as modded cars typically are worth
less
than stockers, but it is your car so do what you want. Me, I prefer the stock
look.
	I checked out the classic motorsports article on the conversion and it looks
like a valid set of data, although I am a bit puzzled. Stock was 74 RWHP
which
seems low, should be about 90(?) but then the car may well have been a bit
tired. Then they modded the car, got the 0-60 to 8.4 seconds or so and said
that they had 100RWHP. This too seems a bit low to me for the HP number.
	Other than that, looks groovy.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

From murr32 at shaw.ca  Fri May 28 11:58:50 2010
From: murr32 at shaw.ca (David Murray)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 11:58:50 -0600
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF70BF@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AE5CF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF70BF@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <002a01cafe8f$6dd03320$49709960$@ca>

My car, stock '73 tested at 75 rwhp while slightly out of tune.  With mods:
lightened flywheel, over bore 0.030", GP2 cam, 10:1 comp, electric fan,
5-speed trans (and some I've likely forgotten) tested at 125 rwhp.  So those
numbers are not out of whack.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 11:42 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT

I think the stock motor is good for 80 rwhp, maybe less for the later cars
and
even less for a tired motor or one that is out of whack. The 100HP looks
about
right for what they did. They were a bit conservative with the compression
ratio and they could easily have gotten 110 rwhp out of it which is about
right for a very drivable fast street car on pump gas and comparable with
the
early PI cars.

I don't fret about these mods, they are easily reversed and you can go back
to
the standard look in a few hours if you kept the bits.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 1:15 PM
To: Victor Colon; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT

	Looks like a high quality kit, and I would expect it to work well,
unlike
the
Weber down draft conversion with its flow restricting "swan neck" manifolds.
	Webers are superior to the Zeniths (and SUs) because they inject the
fuel in
the center of the air stream, which yields a more uniform fuel mixture. The
benefits are most evident at higher RPM on tuned engines, but are very real.
	My one concern would be resale value, as modded cars typically are
worth
less
than stockers, but it is your car so do what you want. Me, I prefer the
stock
look.
	I checked out the classic motorsports article on the conversion and
it looks
like a valid set of data, although I am a bit puzzled. Stock was 74 RWHP
which
seems low, should be about 90(?) but then the car may well have been a bit
tired. Then they modded the car, got the 0-60 to 8.4 seconds or so and said
that they had 100RWHP. This too seems a bit low to me for the HP number.
	Other than that, looks groovy.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May 28 12:18:42 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 11:18:42 -0700
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <002a01cafe8f$6dd03320$49709960$@ca>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AE5CF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF70BF@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<002a01cafe8f$6dd03320$49709960$@ca>
Message-ID: <a06240802c825b688bca0@[192.168.2.4]>

This may be heresy, but I am of the opinion that for normal street 
use almost all Triumphs are over carbureted ... At the Monteray 
Historics one year there was a Factory modified Sebring Sprite ... it 
had only one downdraft weber, and was faster than snot, in the "race" 
it participated in it easily out ran all its competitors.  Some one, 
I think it was Vance, said "keep it simple", which I agree with whole 
heartily.  In the book "How to repair your foreign car" the chapter 
on carburetor is sub-titled "carburetor ... a French word for DO NOT 
TOUCH".  I have found this to be pretty much true, as 99% of my 
carburetor problems were really ignition.  But that is entirely 
another subject.


>My car, stock '73 tested at 75 rwhp while slightly out of tune.  With mods:
>lightened flywheel, over bore 0.030", GP2 cam, 10:1 comp, electric fan,
>5-speed trans (and some I've likely forgotten) tested at 125 rwhp.  So those
>numbers are not out of whack.
>
>Dave


-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Fri May 28 12:59:44 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Fri, 28 May 2010 14:59:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <a06240802c825b688bca0@[192.168.2.4]>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AE5CF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513BF70BF@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net><002a01cafe8f$6dd03320$49709960$@ca>
	<a06240802c825b688bca0@[192.168.2.4]>
Message-ID: <463D3971AE034B2D9BB53A7D2ABEDC24@artvac412870f0>

Bill wrote:
"I am of the opinion that for normal street  use almost all Triumphs are 
over carbureted."

Yes, This can happen with Weber DCOE's and DellOrto's as well as any other 
fixed Venturi /Choke Carb.
I've used them both on several Cars, Alfas came with the 40's and BMW's 
(2002's) always were prescribed
45's. They were fine for the street but when You overstep that line, it's a 
step backwards unless You have
the rest of the hardware to back them up.

   That's where the beauty of SU's come in to play. With a Constant 
Depression,Constant Velocity or Variable Choke
Carb like an SU it will only take what it needs, the only inefficiency is if 
You're running too rich a Needle and compromise
mileage etc. I have a pair of HS6's on my low compression 75 TR6 with ANSA, 
Pertronix etc. and love them. On my
other Head that I have on the Bench now I'm going to run a pair of SU 2" 
HS8's with 9.25 to 1 C/R, Mild Cam with
Roller Rockers having 1:65 ratio, along with a Header that will work with 
the ANSA dual pipe setup.

  Overkill it might be, but it won't be "Over Carbed"
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
64 TR4
69 Spit
75 TR6




--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bill" <anabil007 at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, May 28, 2010 2:18 PM
To: "David Murray" <murr32 at shaw.ca>; "'Foster, Stan (HP IT)'" 
<stan.foster at hp.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT

> This may be heresy, but I am of the opinion that for normal street use 
> almost all Triumphs are over carbureted ... At the Monteray Historics one 
> year there was a Factory modified Sebring Sprite ... it had only one 
> downdraft weber, and was faster than snot, in the "race" it participated 
> in it easily out ran all its competitors.  Some one, I think it was Vance, 
> said "keep it simple", which I agree with whole heartily.  In the book 
> "How to repair your foreign car" the chapter on carburetor is sub-titled 
> "carburetor ... a French word for DO NOT TOUCH".  I have found this to be 
> pretty much true, as 99% of my carburetor problems were really ignition. 
> But that is entirely another subject.
>
>
>>My car, stock '73 tested at 75 rwhp while slightly out of tune.  With 
>>mods:
>>lightened flywheel, over bore 0.030", GP2 cam, 10:1 comp, electric fan,
>>5-speed trans (and some I've likely forgotten) tested at 125 rwhp.  So 
>>those
>>numbers are not out of whack.
>>
>>Dave

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat May 29 06:22:12 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 08:22:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <C98C9FEE53164557BF39FC01CC923E0C@RVAR>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<C98C9FEE53164557BF39FC01CC923E0C@RVAR>
Message-ID: <PQMo1e0020HYFJw05QMoHL@charter.net>

At 10:56 AM 5/28/2010, ron wrote:

>I'm not sure about the Weber carbs, however, if you are going to 
>take care of the poor flow characteristic of the TR6 head, it seems 
>you would want to put a better intake manifold on in order to give 
>the gas/air mixture a straighter shot at the intake valve.The Good 
>triple carb intake does that and the Strombergs or the SU's are a 
>lot easier to tune.

How much more motor do you need to add to use all that air?

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat May 29 12:39:44 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 29 May 2010 14:39:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
In-Reply-To: <PQMo1e0020HYFJw05QMoHL@charter.net>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<C98C9FEE53164557BF39FC01CC923E0C@RVAR>
	<PQMo1e0020HYFJw05QMoHL@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4C015F70.9000908@bright.net>

All this carb talk made me go dig out the formula for needed.CFM.  But, 
before that, stop and think of the reason Stromberg's were used here as 
emission carbs.Even though you, supposedly, can adjust the carb, 
adjustment is so small the the value is more psychological than usable. 
The Stromberg is basically a non-adjustable carb which made it ideal for 
the federally mandated emission laws."If you can't adjust it, you can't 
defeat it" to get around the emission requirements.  At least SU's can 
be adjusted, have a huge variety of needles and 4 easily changeable main 
jets.  So, in the case of the Stromberg's. "if you can't tune 2, how do 
you tune 3"?  Now, the formula. CFM = engine displacement x desired revs 
divided by 3456.  So if you have 155 cid TR6 engine and want to make max 
power at 6000 rpm, you need to flow 269 CFM of air. (155cid x 6000 = 
930000.00 divided 3456.00 = 269.10).  Have a good Memorial Day. Ted


Jeff Scarbrough wrote:
> At 10:56 AM 5/28/2010, ron wrote:
>
>> I'm not sure about the Weber carbs, however, if you are going to take 
>> care of the poor flow characteristic of the TR6 head, it seems you 
>> would want to put a better intake manifold on in order to give the 
>> gas/air mixture a straighter shot at the intake valve.The Good triple 
>> carb intake does that and the Strombergs or the SU's are a lot easier 
>> to tune.
>
> How much more motor do you need to add to use all that air?
>
> Jeff Scarbrough
> Corrosion Acres, Ga.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tedtsimx at bright.net
>
>


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Sun May 30 08:58:04 2010
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 07:58:04 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Master Cylinder Woes
Message-ID: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>

My M/C began leaking onto the servo.  I ordered a replacement from Moss, bench
bled it and bolted it on.  On bleeding the brakes, beginning at the right rear
wheel, the rear brakes bled cleanly--with minimal bubbles.  Bleeding the two
front brakes resulted in nothing more than big bubbles.  I bench bled the M/C
in situ again and re-bled the brakes--twice.  Bubble free fluid in the rear
system, big bubbles in front.
I returned the unit and had them send me another.  Bench bled on the car.
Same results.  Almost bubble free in the rear, big bubbles in front.  This is
not my first rodeo and having owned this particular car since 1994 I'm
confident I know how to bleed brakes.  Any suggestions on what could be
happening?  Two defective master cylinders in a row?  Both allowing air into
the front system?  Note:  I just checked the unit for leaks and there are
none.  The unit is dry top, bottom, and sides.
Suggestions please.

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun May 30 12:10:53 2010
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 14:10:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Master Cylinder Woes
In-Reply-To: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>
References: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>
Message-ID: <Pu9X1e00E0HYFJw05u9Yux@charter.net>

At 10:58 AM 5/30/2010, Bill Wellbaum wrote:
>My M/C began leaking onto the servo.  I ordered a replacement from Moss, bench
>bled it and bolted it on.  On bleeding the brakes, beginning at the right rear
>wheel, the rear brakes bled cleanly--with minimal bubbles.  Bleeding the two
>front brakes resulted in nothing more than big bubbles.

>Suggestions please.

PDWA problem, or a hole on the brake pipe.   You should be able to 
demonstrate that the bubbles are not coming from the MC by bench bleeding...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Sun May 30 13:07:43 2010
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Sun, 30 May 2010 12:07:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Woes
Message-ID: <689871.81382.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

Hmmm... Just did all this last week,  new cupro-nickel lines, new MC and
rebuilt booster. PDWA and unions cleaned and PDWA shuttle reset.   MC bench
bled as per  on-line Moss video.  Scary for a while as took a lot of pumping
on the bench to get fluid moving through the front brakes reservoir of MC .  
I got a sore leg from all the pumping, but we have clean bubble free fluid at
all 4 corners.   Good firm pedal.

Had to re-use several old lines, as English
ebay obtained kit didn't seem to have all the front metric fittings.   Came
with a long one piece line that wasn't needed, - must be for some TR that has
a one piece front to back brake line.   My old lines looked okay once you
cleaned them up.

Bruce Simms
73 TR6

From lindquistse at charter.net  Mon May 31 15:34:03 2010
From: lindquistse at charter.net (Steve Lindquist)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 17:34:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 brake lines and PDWA switch
In-Reply-To: <7A804515A1A54354910F85AB5AF234C9@LAMBOUR>
Message-ID: <0ABAA9B135CF4068B20E9F43539160AC@Computerroom>

My 68 TR250 has a PWDA so that adds support to Bob's comment  that all "6"s
had them as well.



Steve



-----Original Message-----
From: owner-net at lists.mv.net [mailto:owner-net at lists.mv.net] On Behalf Of
Richard Lambour
Sent: Thursday, May 27, 2010 9:14 PM
To: net at lists.mv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [net] TR-6 brake lines and PDWA switch



Hi,



I've been looking for replacement brake piping/lines for my 1970 TR-6 which
is a frame off restoration right now.  I have a couple of questions:



1.     My car is left hand drive (US) but does not appear to have been
fitted with a PDWA switch - we can't find any of the hardware on the car.
Is this something that would not have appeared on the 1970 cars?  It appears
in the Moss and TRF parts lists.

2.     Is there more than one manufacturer of pre-bent brake lines for the
TR-6?



Thanks very much!



Rick Lambour

1970 TR-6

From Pimento73 at aol.com  Mon May 31 16:34:14 2010
From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 18:34:14 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT
Message-ID: <16382.31c4e16a.39359364@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/29/2010 2:46:26 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tedtsimx at bright.net writes:

So, in  the case of the Stromberg's. "if you can't tune 2, how do 
you tune  3"?
 
 
But if I CAN tune 2 of them, why wouldn't I want a third one?
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Mon May 31 17:35:23 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 19:35:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
Message-ID: <AANLkTimcrg_WEquVosYVkfl3iQ_qfz6e-MMCpLuR57sS@mail.gmail.com>

When I floor it at fairly low rpms, the engine coughs and splutters.
Very embarrassing in the auto cross.   I have a K&N O2 sensor system
installed, it normally shows quite rich (2 green bars), but when I
floor it it goes to full lean until the engine recovers.   Timing is
spot on, valves adjusted, gaps and points set, distributor rebuilt,
new rotor, new wires.   Have swapped out the coil.   Carbs are
balanced and set to mid range mix - two full turns from full rich,
doesn't seem to make much difference where they are set, O2 sensor
still shows well on the rich side and the engine stumbles horribly.
Dashpot oil filled.

This is a 76 with all the smog control equipment removed.   9.5-1
compression, mild porting, Good GP2 cam

Any suggestions?

John North

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon May 31 18:29:36 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 20:29:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
In-Reply-To: <C1F94790F6C44DB59421D038A3F8C033@AlexPC>
References: <COL123-DS6EA53020EE9BA7C703191F4520@phx.gbl><0DDCFA8FECA8403494D9466B433A9A21@Robert>
	<C1F94790F6C44DB59421D038A3F8C033@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <1A49DF796CC846DBB4D06FF953C68699@AlexPC>

For those who remember this post of my from February, here's the outcome of 
my findings. My initial schedule of a week or two turned out to be a month 
or three.

I finally got around to pulling the radiator, fan and examining what was 
going on with my free spinning fan.

After going through all that is required to pull the radiator (with an A/C 
system) I discovered that the fan, adapter and fan extension was free 
spinning on the crankshaft. The pulley to crank bolt was tight, so my 
initial concern was that the 2 pins that engage the pulley and damper had 
sheared off.

Turned out the pins had back out of the pulley & damper, and caused the fan 
extension (red fan) to just spin. The bottom of the pins were flush with the 
base of the fan extension. The fan would not have come off because the bolt 
head kept it on.

I pushed out the 2 pins and reset them in the fan extension. It appeared 
that the pins would not come out through the fan holes because the hole was 
smaller on the outer part of the housing.

Put it all back together, and everything is fine. This is not to say that 
the pins will not back out again. I'll keep everyone posted should they back 
out again. I guess one thing to do would have been to measure the length of 
the pins and match them against the length of new pins.

Alex Manzo
72 TR6 (back on the road)


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alex" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>
To: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>; "'Sally or Dick Taylor'" 
<tr6taylor at webtv.net>; "'*Six Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 9:18 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Free spinning fan


> The pulley (key) is fine. No free spin what-so-ever. The engine has been 
> rebuilt and installed for over 6 years with no problem. This is a recent 
> development, so I must assume everything was correct. I did the ancillary 
> attachments after the long block was rebuilt and used all original parts 
> where reusable. Anything needing replacement was done with Moss/TRF/VB 
> replacements and matched prior to installation.
> I probably won't get back to this for a week or so. I'll keep everyone 
> updated. Thanks for all the input.
> Alex
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
> To: "'Sally or Dick Taylor'" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>; "'Alex'" 
> <ambritts at bellsouth.net>; "'*Six Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, February 07, 2010 8:11 AM
> Subject: RE: [6pack] Free spinning fan
>
>
>> Question: Are the correct length bolts through the fan plate and into the
>> extension, being used? If not then the fan can spin freely. They must be
>> able to go through the fan, adapter and extension and be tight with a 
>> spring
>> washer. The only other possible opportunity for it to spin, apart from 
>> what
>> Dick has mentioned would be that the key on the crank is missing. This
>> sometimes occurs in assembly. However this would mean the timing could 
>> never
>> be measured or set correctly.
> _______________________________________________

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon May 31 19:10:12 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 21:10:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
In-Reply-To: <1A49DF796CC846DBB4D06FF953C68699@AlexPC>
References: <COL123-DS6EA53020EE9BA7C703191F4520@phx.gbl><0DDCFA8FECA8403494D9466B433A9A21@Robert>
	<C1F94790F6C44DB59421D038A3F8C033@AlexPC>
	<1A49DF796CC846DBB4D06FF953C68699@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <ABC6E2A794964552887C77C0F57113EC@Robert>

You never know what is going to happen next. I suspect the pins were not
lined up with the holes on the harmonic balancer and therefore pushed out as
the big bolt was tightened. Those pins are pressed in and are pretty tough
to move.

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon May 31 19:15:22 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 21:15:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
In-Reply-To: <ABC6E2A794964552887C77C0F57113EC@Robert>
References: <COL123-DS6EA53020EE9BA7C703191F4520@phx.gbl><0DDCFA8FECA8403494D9466B433A9A21@Robert>
	<C1F94790F6C44DB59421D038A3F8C033@AlexPC>
	<1A49DF796CC846DBB4D06FF953C68699@AlexPC>
	<ABC6E2A794964552887C77C0F57113EC@Robert>
Message-ID: <B6FDE46A3E3A43B3ABD2078E49F96BA2@AlexPC>

Excellent point. My pins move pretty freely.
May be doing this again shortly. :o(


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: "'Alex'" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>; "'*Six Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>; 
"'Sally or Dick Taylor'" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up


> You never know what is going to happen next. I suspect the pins were not
> lined up with the holes on the harmonic balancer and therefore pushed out 
> as
> the big bolt was tightened. Those pins are pressed in and are pretty tough
> to move.

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon May 31 19:25:40 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 01:25:40 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
Message-ID: <1753449103-1275355562-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-313577788-@bda094.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I would fill the outer part of the holes with JB weld to keep them from backing out. 

Lou
72 Pimento 
------Original Message------
From: Alex
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Robert Liam Gannon
To: TR-6 list
To: 'Sally or Dick Taylor'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
Sent: May 31, 2010 8:15 PM

Excellent point. My pins move pretty freely.
May be doing this again shortly. :o(


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: "'Alex'" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>; "'*Six Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>; 
"'Sally or Dick Taylor'" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 9:10 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up


> You never know what is going to happen next. I suspect the pins were not
> lined up with the holes on the harmonic balancer and therefore pushed out 
> as
> the big bolt was tightened. Those pins are pressed in and are pretty tough
> to move.
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon May 31 19:39:40 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 21:39:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
In-Reply-To: <1753449103-1275355562-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-313577788-@bda094.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1753449103-1275355562-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-313577788-@bda094.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <140EFD7C51CC4293B560D703BC065692@AlexPC>

great idea. I might be able to get my fat fingers in there to do that.

Thx
Alex
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lfm614 at aol.com>
To: "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 9:25 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up


>I would fill the outer part of the holes with JB weld to keep them from 
>backing out.
>
> Lou
> 72 Pimento
> ------Original Message------
> From: Alex
> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
> To: Robert Liam Gannon
> To: TR-6 list
> To: 'Sally or Dick Taylor'
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
> Sent: May 31, 2010 8:15 PM
>
> Excellent point. My pins move pretty freely.
> May be doing this again shortly. :o(
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
> To: "'Alex'" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>; "'*Six Pack'" 
> <6pack at autox.team.net>;
> "'Sally or Dick Taylor'" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 9:10 PM
> Subject: RE: [6pack] Free spinning fan-follow up
>
>
>> You never know what is going to happen next. I suspect the pins were not
>> lined up with the holes on the harmonic balancer and therefore pushed out
>> as
>> the big bolt was tightened. Those pins are pressed in and are pretty 
>> tough
>> to move.
> _______________________________________________

From rsh17 at msn.com  Mon May 31 20:23:49 2010
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Mon, 31 May 2010 21:23:49 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
Message-ID: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>

 There is a TR6 Hotwheel out now. It's a RHD, race car. I took it apart and
striped the paint off and repainted it red, plus a little detail work.

Just thought someone might be interested. Found this one at Kroger, but of
course WalMart has them

Richard Seaton



_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3