From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 1 07:08:43 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 08:08:43 -0600 Subject: [6pack] vtr Message-ID: I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register. every email they send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen. please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!! tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit. their email is membership at vtr.org From alanatkinson at hotmail.com Mon Mar 1 07:31:42 2010 From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 09:31:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] vtr In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Leaving aside the security implications of email, this most likely means that they are storing your password information as plaintext. Which means that if anyone cracks their CMS everyone's password is open. You all use disposable passwords for forums, right? Most hashing algorithms (like MD5) are one way. Sorta pointless otherwise... An example of this is the 6-Pack site (which I'm reasonable familiar with). It uses a salted MD5 algorithm for password encryption. The effect of this is that even the mods (and for that matter the webmaster) can't see your password, let alone anyone who hacked the site. All they can do it reset it (hopefully at your behest). I hope I'm wrong about the plaintext thing - but then a two-way hashing algorithm would be just as useless - and there's no other way I know of to save passwords. Your best bet is to change your password to something disposable (ie not the same as or close to any other one). But that's good advice for ANY forum, list or group. > From: sumton at sbcglobal.net > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; RedRiverTriumph at yahoogroups.com; membership at vtr.org > Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 08:08:43 -0600 > Subject: [6pack] vtr > > I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register. every email they > send out has your username and password in clear text. > > help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever > seen. please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!! > tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish > habit. > > their email is membership at vtr.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/alanatkinson at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469229/direct/01/ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 1 09:30:19 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 08:30:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] FM radio/cassette In-Reply-To: <001101cab7d4$4840da80$d8c28f80$@ca> References: <001101cab7d4$4840da80$d8c28f80$@ca> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572568E0F34F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Colin: In the US, at least, there is no such thing for the TR6. The "British Leyland" radios were made by Bendix, and these are what everyone thinks of when they think of the BL radios. Frankly, any electronics from that era is pretty sad by today's standards - and The Bendix radios are no exception. They put out as much power as your typical butterfly sneeze, and have no selectivity or sensitivity. As far as the cassette and 8 track decks go, they were built by Audiovox, and do not have the BL logo on them, best I can tell. They will have a paper sticker on them that prominently shows the BL part number for the unit, although many of the stickers are missing. And while the build quality was better than the Bendix radios, the performance was not. No one wants the 8 tracks, so they got scrapped a long time ago, and the cassettes are fairly rare - I managed to pull one that worked from an MGB. You must add an external amp to them if you hope to hear the radio with the top down. As I said, all the power of a butterfly sneeze. Instead, I suggest going with the "vintage look" instead. Try one of these - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/VTG-Style-Adjustable-Shafts-Knobs-AM-FM-iPod -Car-Radio_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53dfbbb007QQitemZ360235905031QQptZMotor sQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccessories I will probably be ditching my Audiovox butterfly special this summer, and going for one of these. Gotta have my iPod while I am on the road ---- Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Colin Thom Sent: Saturday, February 27, 2010 9:43 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] FM radio/cassette Hi Gang. Might anyone have a British Leyland stereo FM/cassette deck they'd be willing to part with, or know someone who does? I'd like to put one in my 75 TR6. To keep my inexpensive "collector" insurance status, everything's gotta be stock or at the very least "period". Many thanks. Colin '75 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 1 11:53:59 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 10:53:59 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Ban on Aftermarket exhaust systems? Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572568E0F55F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Saw this interesting pending Utah legislation on the SEMA web site. http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?id=62705 A move to ban anything but OEM style exhaust systems. Not sure what the reasoning is (noise? emissions?) but SEMA seems concerned. Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette [cid:712354818 at 01032010-2D8A] DefMet Dirt Devils Send Vance a page Desk: (503)613-3557 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR6_final.jpg] From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Mon Mar 1 12:09:39 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:09:39 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:08 AM, oliver wrote: I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register. every email they send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen. please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!! tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit. their email is membership at vtr.org Good afternoon everyone, As this is a VTR matter that doesn't involve the community as a whole, I have responded to David privately. I will leave it to him as to whether he wants to share my response with the entire list. VTR members wishing to receive a copy of my correspondence with David may email me offlist at bdischer at vtr.org. Cheers, Blake J. Discher, President From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Mon Mar 1 12:23:15 2010 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:23:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr - Resending for address error In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:08 AM, oliver wrote: I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register. every email they send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen. please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!! tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit. their email is membership at vtr.org Good afternoon everyone, As this is a VTR matter that doesn't involve the community as a whole, I have responded to David privately. I will leave it to him as to whether he wants to share my response with the entire list. VTR members wishing to receive a copy of my correspondence with David may email me offlist at bdischer at vtr.org. Cheers, Blake J. Discher, President From mark at bradakis.com Mon Mar 1 13:06:46 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 13:06:46 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B8C1E56.5020902@bradakis.com> oliver wrote: > I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register. every email they > send out has your username and password in clear text. > > help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever > seen. please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!! > tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish > habit. > > What, exactly, do you see as such a threat? What is the worst case scenario of someone being able to access the VTR pages as you? In a few days the monthly Team.Net mailing list reminders will go out, they include users email address and list passwords in plain text. As far as I know, there have been no reports of list members having some malicious interloper switching them from regular mode to digest or some such. But hey, I guess it could happen. mjb. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 1 13:01:42 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 14:01:42 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Fw: VTR Password Issue Message-ID: <7B3C2547332F4A4D9CDA09AD361ABAE2@ranteer.local> I'll just add that I appreciate Blake responding so quickly and positively. and of course I plan to renew! -------------------------------------------------- From: "Blake Discher" Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 1:14 PM To: "oliver" ; "Vintage Triumph Register" ; "Mailing list for VTR Board" Subject: VTR Password Issue > On Mar 1, 2010, at 9:08 AM, oliver wrote: > I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register. every email > they send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out > people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen. > please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!! tell > them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit. > their email is membership at vtr.org > > > > > Hello David, > > Back in January, I had a much less public email exchange with another > member who shared your concern about the clear text mailings of passwords. > His email to me was a result of the password being included in the > periodic eUpdates that were mailed to members. After that exchange, I > discontinued adding it to the eUpdates, effective with the February, 2010 > issue. > > You don't mention what correspondence specifically included the password, > but after reviewing your record in the membership database, I see your > membership expires 30 days from today, and I concluded it was the request > for renewal. > > David, we're just a small group of dedicated volunteers, and to be honest, > had I remembered those series of emails to members whose memberships are > about to expire, I would have certainly edited those templates to also > remove the password. I just plain forgot they were out there. I have > indeed edited them and snooped around the software further to ascertain > what other automated mail templates may exist with the password field in > place. As far as I know, I got them all. > > Thank you for pointing out this issue and thank you for your continued > support of VTR. After you renew, I will ask Bill Lynn, VTR's Membership > Secretary, to extend you membership three months for your trouble. In the > future, if you have questions regarding VTR, please address them to me or > any board member rather than the Auto-X Triumph list. VTR does not run > that listserve and I don't check it on a daily basis. You can also feel > free to give me a call as well, my number is in my signature block. > > Best regards, > Blake > > ________________________________________________________________________ > Blake J. Discher, President > Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org | P 313.259.4460 | F 313.447.4100= From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Mar 1 13:33:35 2010 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 20:33:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Ban on Aftermarket exhaust systems? In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572568E0F55F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572568E0F55F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: No offence intended to you Monza guys, but I wish they'd also ban aftermarket headlights (blinding blue) and tail-lights (stupid ero-looking) at the same time. (haha) Interesting link, thanks Vance. Sloane :) OEM-soft steel-note. > > Saw this interesting pending Utah legislation on the SEMA web site. > > http://www.semasan.com/main/main.aspx?id=62705 > > A move to ban anything but OEM style exhaust systems. Not sure what > the reasoning is (noise? emissions?) but SEMA seems concerned. > > Cheers, > > Vance > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469228/direct/01/ From VTRmbrshp at aol.com Mon Mar 1 13:32:53 2010 From: VTRmbrshp at aol.com (VTRmbrshp at aol.com) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 15:32:53 EST Subject: [6pack] vtr passwords and their dissemination Message-ID: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com> I am going to take the "high road" here and suggest that you really should check out your facts before you send out e-mails like this and stir up all kinds of unnecessary controversy! It is particularly insulting to those of us who voluntarily spend more than 30 hours per week on VTR related matters, to have our efforts referred to as "the most egregious security practice I have ever seen" and "incredibly amateurish habitb. This is probably all a moot point since we will likely be discontinuing the practice of including your password on any VTR correspondence, however convenient others may find this to be. First of all, let me assure everyone that "every" e-mail that is sent out from VTR does not include your username and password. Interestingly enough, I, as VTR Membership Secretary, do not even know or have access to what everyone's password is. It is a totally blank field in our administrative database. I can insert a new password, but I never know what the prior password was. I am sure our President will be responding but let me remind you of (apologies in advance to Information Technology Officers) a few things about passwords in general. You presumably have a safe, secure, password for your e-mail account and only you can view your e-mail. Therefore, any e-mail we send you with your VTR password would presumably be read only by you. Because many e-mail users on any system forget or otherwise lose their passwords, virtually every system allows you to request your password. With most systems I am familiar with, the recovered password is sent to your e-mail address after the system first verifies your request, and matches the e-mail address on file associated with the username you attempted to log in under. Anyway, suppose someone with ill-intent does acquire your VTR password. Since we house no financial information in your profile (like credit card, PayPal, or bank account information) there is little that could be done to your profile, other than nuisance name changes, etc. I submit to you that your exposure is not much greater than your listing in a local telephone directory or other public information sources readily available on the Internet. Not withstanding the foregoing, my recommendations will be to remove the passwords from all VTR correspondence, with the exception of specific requests for recovery. Regards, Bill Lynn VTR Membership Secretary e-mail: _triumphtr2 at aol.com _ (mailto:triumphtr2 at aol.com) In a message dated 3/1/2010 8:08:53 A.M. Central Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: I just received an email from the Vintage Triumph Register. every email they send out has your username and password in clear text. help me out people - this is the most egregious security practice I have ever seen. please send them an email and tell them to stop this practice!!!!! tell them you will not renew until they cease this incredibly amateurish habit. their email is _membership at vtr.org_ (mailto:membership at vtr.org) From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Mar 1 14:35:02 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 16:35:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination In-Reply-To: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com> References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com> Message-ID: Bill and board. FWIW I for one understand all the efforts that you folks put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it. Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB. Marty Sukey _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469227/direct/01/ From mark at bradakis.com Mon Mar 1 15:11:14 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 15:11:14 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination In-Reply-To: References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B8C3B82.5080006@bradakis.com> marty sukey wrote: > Bill and board. FWIW I for one understand all the efforts that you folks > put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it. > > > > Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB. > > Thanks. I can certainly appreciate the behind the scenes efforts that go into keeping VTR a useful club for Triumph enthusiasts. Sometimes I think it would be interesting to know just how many hours over the last 20+ years I've spent on keeping Team.Net going. Then again, I really don't want to know! I did get a nice donation the other day via Paypal for $21.38 - not the $11.47, suggested, he must not drive a Spitfire. Support like that helps keep me going. I imagine that a convention full of happy TR folks is quite a reward for those who make it all happen. Of course in the early years of trying to set up consistent autocross rules and classing, the Autocross Advisory Board had our share of less than happy people. Reminds me of a story from years ago when I was very actively autocrossing. I think it was a divisional or a Pro Solo out at Wendover. After the event a number of folks were hanging around with a cold beverage and talking about stuff. A person from one region commented something like "We have over a hundred people in our region, and it is always the same half dozen that get things done." Someone from a much bigger region replied that they had nearly 1,000 members in their region, but it was always the same half dozen folks who made sure things got done. Some things never change, it seems. mjb. From trglory at verizon.net Mon Mar 1 15:18:44 2010 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 17:18:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination In-Reply-To: References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com> Message-ID: <007401cab98d$2855a830$7900f890$@net> VTR Board; I really wish you wouldn't change anything. I have a memory like a steel sieve and I appreciate your egregious efforts to make sure I remember my UserID and Password. I just wanted to add another voice to Marty's comments. Thanks for all you do. Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 4:35 PM To: vtrmbrshp at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6 Digest; membership at vtr.org Cc: Blake J. Discher Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination Bill and board. FWIW I for one understand all the efforts that you folks put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it. Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB. Marty Sukey From mark at bradakis.com Mon Mar 1 15:59:52 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 15:59:52 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination In-Reply-To: References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com> Message-ID: <4B8C46E8.5020709@bradakis.com> > Is the Team.Net VTR list no more, then? It seems like, if there were > something needing public discussion, that would be the place for it. > > -- Randall > Yes, it does still exist, I never did remove it. mjb. From jmitch at snet.net Mon Mar 1 19:52:02 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2010 21:52:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination In-Reply-To: <007401cab98d$2855a830$7900f890$@net> References: <25e21.448e4615.38bd7e75@aol.com> <007401cab98d$2855a830$7900f890$@net> Message-ID: <4B8C7D52.4000905@snet.net> I second that, It's all good the way it is. John Mitchell Joe Laurito wrote: > VTR Board; > > I really wish you wouldn't change anything. I have a memory like a steel > sieve and I appreciate your egregious efforts to make sure I remember my > UserID and Password. I just wanted to add another voice to Marty's comments. > Thanks for all you do. > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of marty sukey > Sent: Monday, March 01, 2010 4:35 PM > To: vtrmbrshp at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6 Digest; membership at vtr.org > Cc: Blake J. Discher > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] vtr passwords and their dissemination > > Bill and board. FWIW I for one understand all the efforts that you folks > put out behind the scenes and truly appreciate it. > > > > Thanks for maintaining a place for us to play, this includes you MJB. > > Marty Sukey > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/jmitch at snet.net From lee at automate-it.com Mon Mar 1 22:02:13 2010 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Mon, 1 Mar 2010 23:02:13 -0600 Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE In-Reply-To: <278D681BE71543868BF227B85AA5913A@Alan> References: <002d01cab7ef$6ac23660$6401a8c0@home> <278D681BE71543868BF227B85AA5913A@Alan> Message-ID: > I put return springs on the later carbs also so to > make the solid cable work easier. I had this setup for a while, but eventually the springs overcome the friction holding the choke in position. Then I could no longer set the choke - the springs would return the choke to off. So I removed the springs and now all is well. The solid cables do a good job of both pushing and pulling, just like the solid cables in areas like your heat/vent flaps, etc. - Lee From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Mar 1 22:29:28 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 00:29:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE References: <002d01cab7ef$6ac23660$6401a8c0@home><278D681BE71543868BF227B85AA5913A@Alan> Message-ID: <882E10B6DEA24B0BBACB7DC3C434741D@Alan> I haven't had that problem, but you should be able to turn the choke knob and lock it in place. But, if it happened, at least it prevents you from running around all day with the choke on. Al :) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Lee Daniels" To: "6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 12:02 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE >> I put return springs on the later carbs also so to >> make the solid cable work easier. > > I had this setup for a while, but eventually the springs overcome the > friction > holding the choke in position. Then I could no longer set the choke - the > springs would return the choke to off. So I removed the springs and now > all is > well. The solid cables do a good job of both pushing and pulling, just > like > the solid cables in areas like your heat/vent flaps, etc. > > - Lee > _______________________________________________ From gpl at fuse.net Tue Mar 2 04:18:38 2010 From: gpl at fuse.net (gpl) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 06:18:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE In-Reply-To: References: <002d01cab7ef$6ac23660$6401a8c0@home><278D681BE71543868BF227B85AA5913A@Alan> Message-ID: Ah! The "Choke Enhancement Clip" otherwise known as a clothespin clipped to the choke knob shaft which holds the choke open during in warm-up. george Leicht -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 12:02 AM To: 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE > I put return springs on the later carbs also so to > make the solid cable work easier. I had this setup for a while, but eventually the springs overcome the friction holding the choke in position. Then I could no longer set the choke - the springs would return the choke to off. So I removed the springs and now all is well. The solid cables do a good job of both pushing and pulling, just like the solid cables in areas like your heat/vent flaps, etc. - Lee _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/gpl at fuse.net From lee at automate-it.com Tue Mar 2 11:06:04 2010 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 12:06:04 -0600 Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE In-Reply-To: <882E10B6DEA24B0BBACB7DC3C434741D@Alan> References: <002d01cab7ef$6ac23660$6401a8c0@home><278D681BE71543868BF227B85AA5913A@Alan> <882E10B6DEA24B0BBACB7DC3C434741D@Alan> Message-ID: > I haven't had that problem, but you should be able to turn the choke knob > and lock it in place. But the stiff (solid) choke cables do not have the twist-to-lock feature, only the flexible cables have this. The stiff cables even have a ridge/slot in the housing that *prevents* one from twisting it. Lee From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 2 11:40:06 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 13:40:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE In-Reply-To: References: <002d01cab7ef$6ac23660$6401a8c0@home><278D681BE71543868BF227B85AA5913A@Alan> <882E10B6DEA24B0BBACB7DC3C434741D@Alan> Message-ID: On Tue, 2 Mar 2010, Lee Daniels wrote: >> I haven't had that problem, but you should be able to turn the choke knob >> and lock it in place. > > But the stiff (solid) choke cables do not have the twist-to-lock feature, only > the flexible cables have this. The stiff cables even have a ridge/slot in the > housing that *prevents* one from twisting it. really! I lock my choke cable open all the time. I have a '74 with the solid core cable. Have had it since 1974. April 1st to be exact. Really. > Lee rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From sakirsis at consolidated.net Tue Mar 2 11:47:27 2010 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 12:47:27 -0600 Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE In-Reply-To: References: <002d01cab7ef$6ac23660$6401a8c0@home><278D681BE71543868BF227B85AA5913A@Alan><882E10B6DEA24B0BBACB7DC3C434741D@Alan> Message-ID: <9EAB8D333A5F445C9DF436D389214884@stevekirsisPC> On my '75 6 there is no turn to lock but I think it is after market. Steve Kirsis, '70 and '75. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert M. Lang" To: "Lee Daniels" Cc: "6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2010 12:40 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE > On Tue, 2 Mar 2010, Lee Daniels wrote: >>> I haven't had that problem, but you should be able to turn the choke >>> knob >>> and lock it in place. >> >> But the stiff (solid) choke cables do not have the twist-to-lock feature, >> only >> the flexible cables have this. The stiff cables even have a ridge/slot in >> the >> housing that *prevents* one from twisting it. > > really! I lock my choke cable open all the time. I have a '74 with the > solid core cable. Have had it since 1974. April 1st to be exact. Really. > >> Lee > > rml > > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > 2009 NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/sakirsis at consolidated.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Mar 2 13:23:18 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2010 20:23:18 GMT Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE Message-ID: Lee---My '73 had the solid Choke cables. To get to the locking feature, one had to pull out the knob a bit (half inch?) before it would twist. Then it would hold wherever you stopped. Dick From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 2 13:26:03 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 15:26:03 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Tue, 2 Mar 2010, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Lee---My '73 had the solid Choke cables. To get to the locking feature, > one had to pull out the knob a bit (half inch?) before it would twist. > Then it would hold wherever you stopped. What he said. Dad used to "forget" to push the choke in sometimes. Saw some really interesting colors in the tailpipes. Everything from pitch black to a blue color. > Dick rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Mar 2 14:15:26 2010 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 2 Mar 2010 16:15:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] CHOKE CABLE In-Reply-To: References: , Message-ID: Gosh, this is scary. Sitting here looking at this email and it hit me. With Jason involved in this Triumph stuff I could start seeing referencing "old fart DAD" and it could be me......... Marty Dad used to "forget" _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469226/direct/01/ From gaf3 at charter.net Wed Mar 3 16:13:40 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2010 18:13:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable Message-ID: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> With the recent thread on the 6 pack email list, I have a couple of questions for the wisdom of the collective groups. Just installed a triple stromberg (Good setup) on a rebuilt early TR6 engine with a cam this past fall. The only problem I have is during starting, it takes more than two carbs to start the beast. I need a third cable to connect to the center carb to get it going. after that it runs to problem. Any one else had this issue? I have the front and rear carbs on the cable. The center carb is not contributing to the starting event. All three carbs were extensively rebuilt including throttle shafts and seals. Any ideas out there?? Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 3 TR6's , TR250, Spit race car and a nice 76 rust free spit. From shawn.loseke at gmail.com Wed Mar 3 17:08:00 2010 From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 17:08:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable In-Reply-To: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> References: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> Message-ID: <3ea26c6b1003031608j373e585ar6cac9926c633f73f@mail.gmail.com> Mine starts from cold just fine with only choking two of the three. I have heard that some snowmobile shops can get get triple carb choke cables. Evidently some of the the three cylinder snowmobiles, with three carbs use them. One place to look at least. Shawn On Wed, Mar 3, 2010 at 4:13 PM, Glenn Franco wrote: > With the recent thread on the 6 pack email list, I have a couple of > questions for the wisdom of the collective groups. > Just installed a triple stromberg (Good setup) on a rebuilt early TR6 engine > with a cam this past fall. The only problem I have is during starting, it > takes more than two carbs to start the beast. I need a third cable to > connect to the center carb to get it going. after that it runs to problem. > Any one else had this issue? I have the front and rear carbs on the cable. > The center carb is not contributing to the starting event. > All three carbs were extensively rebuilt including throttle shafts and > seals. > Any ideas out there?? > Thanks in advance > Glenn Franco > 3 TR6's , TR250, Spit race car and a nice 76 rust free spit. > _______________________________________________ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Mar 3 20:02:00 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 3 Mar 2010 21:02:00 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable In-Reply-To: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> References: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> Message-ID: <01DF0CFD45D5471CB98D707900AFFB9B@ranteer.local> I have triple carbs, and no problem whatsoever starting. I don't know if the other engine mods make it harder or easier to start, but I think you have a problem, and its not a third choke cable. are they balanced correctly? I can tell you from experience that's an iterative exercise. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Glenn Franco" Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 5:13 PM To: ; "Friends of Triumph" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable > With the recent thread on the 6 pack email list, I have a couple of > questions for the wisdom of the collective groups. > Just installed a triple stromberg (Good setup) on a rebuilt early TR6 > engine with a cam this past fall. The only problem I have is during > starting, it takes more than two carbs to start the beast. I need a third > cable to connect to the center carb to get it going. after that it runs to > problem. > Any one else had this issue? I have the front and rear carbs on the cable. > The center carb is not contributing to the starting event. > All three carbs were extensively rebuilt including throttle shafts and > seals. From tom628 at verizon.net Wed Mar 3 21:02:53 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:02:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable References: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> Message-ID: <8FDA1A103EBC438F9A19D6201070071C@Toms> Hi Glenn: I had a similar issue, so I added a 3rd choke cable to the center carb. I used just an inexpensive choke cable from one of the local auto parts stores, and mounted the pull handle just to the right of the plinth on the under side of the dash. It works great. You have to pull both knobs,but it's only during starting, of course, so I don't see that as a problem. Just one other point: mine was never really hard to start with only choke on 2 carbs. I put the 3rd choke on to maybe make it even easier and also just for a balanced mixture. You might want to make sure your mixture is OK. BTW, mine is a '76 with the later manifold but I don't think that should make a difference. HTH,Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Franco" To: ; "Friends of Triumph" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 03, 2010 6:13 PM Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable > With the recent thread on the 6 pack email list, I have a couple of > questions for the wisdom of the collective groups. > Just installed a triple stromberg (Good setup) on a rebuilt early TR6 > engine with a cam this past fall. The only problem I have is during > starting, it takes more than two carbs to start the beast. I need a third > cable to connect to the center carb to get it going. after that it runs to > problem. > Any one else had this issue? I have the front and rear carbs on the cable. > The center carb is not contributing to the starting event. > All three carbs were extensively rebuilt including throttle shafts and > seals. > Any ideas out there?? > Thanks in advance > Glenn Franco > 3 TR6's , TR250, Spit race car and a nice 76 rust free spit. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom628 at verizon.net From shewfamily at aol.com Wed Mar 3 21:13:25 2010 From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com) Date: Wed, 03 Mar 2010 23:13:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable In-Reply-To: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> References: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> Message-ID: <8CC89682BAC6011-4434-61F6@webmail-d065.sysops.aol.com> Glenn, I was looking at the GoodParts website this week drooling over a triple carb setup and I believe I saw that Richard Good is offering choke cables with three cables. -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco To: tr6parts at charter.net; Friends of Triumph ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Mar 3, 2010 5:13 pm Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable With the recent thread on the 6 pack email list, I have a couple of questions for the wisdom of the collective groups. Just installed a triple stromberg (Good setup) on a rebuilt early TR6 engine with a cam this past fall. The only problem I have is during starting, it takes more than two carbs to start the beast. I need a third cable to connect to the center carb to get it going. after that it runs to problem. Any one else had this issue? I have the front and rear carbs on the cable. The center carb is not contributing to the starting event. All three carbs were extensively rebuilt including throttle shafts and seals. Any ideas out there?? Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 3 TR6's , TR250, Spit race car and a nice 76 rust free spit. _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shewfamily at aol.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Mar 3 23:56:33 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 06:56:33 GMT Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable Message-ID: Glenn---A couple of things could be done that might help the cold start. One would be to richen up the mixture (if the plugs look like they could stand it). You could also just do a trial adjustment, since it's quick and easy. The other would be to advance the spark timing to as much as 14 deg. BTDC at idle speeds at 800rpm. Some cams really like more timing than what the book calls for. A friend with a TR6 in upper Idaho has no problem starting his engine with NO choke on a stock engine. I suspect he's running on the rich side, tho. Lastly would be to raise the CR to at least 9.0:1. Again, the cam and trips you have do well with more compression, and timing! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Glenn Franco Sent: Wednesday, March 3, 2010 3:13 PM To: tr6parts at charter.net, Friends of Triumph, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable With the recent thread on the 6 pack email list, I have a couple of questions for the wisdom of the collective groups. Just installed a triple stromberg (Good setup) on a rebuilt early TR6 engine with a cam this past fall. The only problem I have is during starting, it takes more than two carbs to start the beast. I need a third cable to connect to the center carb to get it going. after that it runs to problem. Any one else had this issue? I have the front and rear carbs on the cable. The center carb is not contributing to the starting event. All three carbs were extensively rebuilt including throttle shafts and seals. Any ideas out there?? Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 3 TR6's , TR250, Spit race car and a nice 76 rust free spit. _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Mar 4 07:10:52 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 09:10:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable In-Reply-To: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> References: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> Message-ID: Hi, Not trying to be funny here, but I found through trial and error that by making the best spark possible, it practically eliminates the need for the choke. On my race with triple Webers, I only need the choke for the first start of the day. When I had that setup in the street car, I had a Crane X700 spark box and I NEVER needed the choke. The car started first twist, even down to the mid-20's (F). regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Mar 4 14:22:48 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 04 Mar 2010 21:22:48 GMT Subject: [6pack] Choke Cable Message-ID: Bob---Not too surprising that you could usually get away with a no-choke startup with the Webers. As you know, the Weber have the advantage of the accelerator pump to squirt gas. SUs and the ZS carbs don't, and rely on choke to richen things up. A nice, fat spark doesn't hurt, either! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Robert M. Lang Sent: Thursday, March 4, 2010 6:10 AM To: Glenn Franco Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net, Friends of Triumph Subject: Re: [6pack] Choke Cable Hi, Not trying to be funny here, but I found through trial and error that by making the best spark possible, it practically eliminates the need for the choke. On my race with triple Webers, I only need the choke for the first start of the day. When I had that setup in the street car, I had a Crane X700 spark box and I NEVER needed the choke. The car started first twist, even down to the mid-20's (F). regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6 at atlasok.com Thu Mar 4 15:27:52 2010 From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips) Date: Thu, 4 Mar 2010 16:27:52 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Triple Carb Choke Message-ID: <013101cabbe9$ee02dea0$ca089be0$@com> A couple of months ago I installed Richard Good's new choke cable for the triple Stromberg setup. It works great. It is very easy to pull and the car starts a lot better. I highly recommend it although it is pricy. John Phillips Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK Green Country Triumphs http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] From danc37040 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 5 13:00:21 2010 From: danc37040 at yahoo.com (Dan Clark) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 12:00:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Triple stromberg Message-ID: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I hear that the triple stromberg choke works great. I would like to know if it better to stick with the triple stromberg kit or go with the triple SU kit. I have plenty of Stromberg and no SU 460 carbs. Do you like the stromberg set up. Please help, I'm in the deciding point of which one to use.. Dan 72 TR6 From shawn.loseke at gmail.com Fri Mar 5 13:59:20 2010 From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 13:59:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Triple stromberg In-Reply-To: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3ea26c6b1003051259n1fce8ba7l475197b0cb199c79@mail.gmail.com> I'm pretty happy with the triple ZS set up. Though I did switch to a RatCo throttle cable to do away with the bell crank set up. SU HS6's, with the external float bowls that sit on the side of the carb, can be an real tight fit. HIF-44's, with an integral float bowl like the ZS, would work very well. There are only a couple of areas that the SU's have over the ZS's. One would be needle selection, the other would be that you can adjust the mixture while the engine is running. Beyond that it boils down to maintenance issues. Both SU's and ZS's will perform fairly equally if they are in the same condition. If you have plenty of Strombergs then I would suggest you stay with them. Spend some money on two Master Rebuild kits, get the manifold and accessories and go for it. I suggest the Master rebuild kits so that you can start with three very fresh carburetors. New throttle shafts and seals, butterflies, bypass valves (these don't come in the Master rebuild kit, you have to buy them separately) ... everything. Get them as close to perfect as you can to start with and you'll be chasing less headaches later. It helps to build it all on the bench to before doing it in the car. That way you'll get very familiar with all you need to when you can pick it up and look at it from different angles. If you also have a header then I would recommend a heat shield as well. Shawn On Fri, Mar 5, 2010 at 1:00 PM, Dan Clark wrote: > I hear that the triple stromberg choke works great. I would like to know if > it better to stick with the triple stromberg kit or go with the triple SU kit. > I have plenty of Stromberg and no SU 460 carbs. Do you like the stromberg set > up. Please help, I'm in the deciding point of which one to use.. > Dan > 72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shawn.loseke at gmail.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Mar 5 15:36:16 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 14:36:16 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Zenith vs SU In-Reply-To: <3ea26c6b1003051259n1fce8ba7l475197b0cb199c79@mail.gmail.com> References: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <3ea26c6b1003051259n1fce8ba7l475197b0cb199c79@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572568ED95C5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Shawn: I would add a couple of items for consideration in the Zenith vs. SU debate The SU HS series lacks temperature compensation, so if the carb heat soaks the mixture goes way rich until enough fuel passes through the carb to cool it. The HIF series has temperature compensation which is a distinct advantage, as do the Zeniths. This reduces the tendency to go rich when heat soaked, although I found them to deliver somewhat less than perfect results. The HS carbs do not offer a deceleration valve. The HIF carbs do, but the deceleration valve design stinks. The SUs use a poppet valve attached directly to the butterfly which greatly reduces air flow. The Zenith bypass valve is much tidier, and it has no effect on air flow. I agree there are fewer needles around for the Zeniths, although there are still many available (just talk to Joe Curto). In addition, there is always the option of hand tweaking the needle with a little 400 grit while it spins in a drill. I also agree that adjusting the mixture while the car is running is a nice little feature. It CAN be done with the Zeniths, but it is easy to stall the engine whereas the HIF carbs will idle very sweetly during adjustment. I have found this to be less of an issue, because with my cam the "lift the slide" test does not work. I must read my plugs to get the mixture correct - so the engine is off anyway. Your average SU has fewer and simpler adjustments, which I think is what most people want. In the hot rod crowd, Holley is much preferred over a Quadrajet, simply because the Holley is so much simpler. The Quadrajet is very effective, and gives better mileage, but uses metering needles (just like our Zeniths!) and so is more involved to tune. Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of shawn loseke Sent: Friday, March 05, 2010 12:59 PM To: Dan Clark Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Triple stromberg SU HS6's, with the external float bowls that sit on the side of the carb, can be a real tight fit. HIF-44's, with an integral float bowl like the ZS, would work very well. There are only a couple of areas that the SU's have over the ZS's. One would be needle selection, the other would be that you can adjust the mixture while the engine is running. Beyond that it boils down to maintenance issues. Both SU's and ZS's will perform fairly equally if they are in the same condition. If you have plenty of Strombergs then I would suggest you stay with them. Shawn From rsh17 at msn.com Fri Mar 5 15:46:08 2010 From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 16:46:08 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Triple stromberg In-Reply-To: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: The ZS carbs when set up correctly are a more efficient carb than the SU's. The SU's have a greater choice of needles for dialing in. Some ZS have adjustable needles, some don't. TRF offers a retro fit for adjustable needles. One thing tom check when going with 3 ZS, is to make sure the brass fitting ( I forget what It's call) in the carb bodies are set at the same depth. I had two original carbs and they were different, and the third off a 250 was also different. So check the depth and get them all set the same. I used a bolt and two nuts locked together to make a drift set to the appropriate depth. I don't have the specific measurement for my 69, but choose a middle ground between the three carbs. Note- when using the bolt as a drift you will need to cut the end off flush, because the end of the bolt threads will bugger up the brass. A color tune is the best method for making sure you have the depth right. _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/201469229/direct/01/ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Mar 5 16:06:16 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 18:06:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Triple stromberg In-Reply-To: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201003051806.16453.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 05 March 2010 03:00:21 pm Dan Clark wrote: > I hear that the triple stromberg choke works great. I would like to know > if it better to stick with the triple stromberg kit or go with the triple > SU kit. I have plenty of Stromberg and no SU 460 carbs. Do you like the > stromberg set up. Please help, I'm in the deciding point of which one to > use.. > Dan > 72 TR6 > Dan, I have heard that triple SUs will not work on a TR6. The front carb will hit the hood. They are taller than the Strombergs. I am going with twin SU HS6s on my 72. Bob From emanteno at gmail.com Fri Mar 5 17:04:43 2010 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 5 Mar 2010 18:04:43 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Triple stromberg In-Reply-To: <201003051806.16453.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <20105.42358.qm@web111304.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <201003051806.16453.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <354a1781003051604r2a6d96d0sa700c87da81b020e@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Mar 5, 2010 at 5:06 PM, Bob wrote: > Dan, > > I have heard that triple SUs will not work on a TR6. The front carb will > hit > the hood. They are taller than the Strombergs. > > I am going with twin SU HS6s on my 72. They can be made to work, there's a TR6 in our club running them now. BUT, the engine had to be lowered a bit in the chassis to clear the bonnet. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U still w/2 Strombergs Highland Park, IL From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Mar 6 13:05:49 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 06 Mar 2010 15:05:49 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Choke Cable In-Reply-To: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> References: <4B8EED24.4020306@charter.net> Message-ID: <4B92B59D.8030802@charter.net> Thanks to all that provided feedback on my triple Stromberg choke cable starting issues. Looks like I will be adding an additional cable for cold starts. Thanks again Glenn Glenn Franco wrote: > With the recent thread on the 6 pack email list, I have a couple of > questions for the wisdom of the collective groups. > Just installed a triple stromberg (Good setup) on a rebuilt early TR6 > engine with a cam this past fall. The only problem I have is during > starting, it takes more than two carbs to start the beast. I need a > third cable to connect to the center carb to get it going. after that > it runs to problem. > Any one else had this issue? I have the front and rear carbs on the > cable. The center carb is not contributing to the starting event. > All three carbs were extensively rebuilt including throttle shafts and > seals. > Any ideas out there?? > Thanks in advance > Glenn Franco > 3 TR6's , TR250, Spit race car and a nice 76 rust free spit. > \ > _______________________________________________ > fot at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/gaf3 at charter.net From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun Mar 7 20:59:00 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 19:59:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Renkenberger Manuals Download Message-ID: <387959.53551.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Big thanks to Len, Bob and all for making this available. I had not seen them before. Some great info for me. Also a fun read. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com. From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun Mar 7 21:13:12 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sun, 7 Mar 2010 20:13:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Off - Need to take off Booster? Message-ID: <9769.38235.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The fluid leaked down the back of the brake MC and made a big puddle on the floor during winter storage. MC is off now. Do I need to remove the booster to check anything? I didn't notice any problem with the booster before. I have a new MC to put on. Maybe I should do the proper Shipwright thing and remove booster and send it away somewhere for rebuild, just to be sure. I see BPNW has a booster rebuild kit, but I hear this is a difficult at home job w/o special tools. Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 Tr6 __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Mar 8 05:35:59 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 07:35:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Off - Need to take off Booster? In-Reply-To: <9769.38235.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <9769.38235.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <201003080735.59684.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 07 March 2010 11:13:12 pm Bruce Simms wrote: > The fluid leaked down the back of the brake MC and made a big puddle on the > floor during winter storage. MC is off now. Do I need to remove the > booster to check anything? I didn't notice any problem with the booster > before. > > I have a new MC to put on. Maybe I should do the proper Shipwright > thing and remove booster and send it away somewhere for rebuild, just to be > sure. > > I see BPNW has a booster rebuild kit, but I hear this is a difficult at > home job w/o special tools. > > Thank you, > > Bruce Simms > 73 Tr6 Bruce, Ted Schumacher has rebuilt units. His website is http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ Bob From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 8 10:13:49 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 09:13:49 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Off - Need to take off Booster? In-Reply-To: <9769.38235.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <9769.38235.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572568ED99C2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bruce: I replaced mine with a rebuilt, since I could see that the MC had a blowout prior to my purchase, and I did not know if the PO had addressed the booster or not (it looked like he had not). Check the booster for brake fluid, if it is clean then you probably need not do anything. If you find a puddle of brake fluid inside it, then need to decide how to proceed. Me, I would toss a rebuilt on there as a matter of course, but that is me. Others would feel perfectly comfortable cleaning it, and reinstalling. There is no reason that I know of to think that the fluid would damage the booster as far as I know. Others can correct me if I am wrong. There is a large stiff spring on the booster that will make disassembly and reassembly difficult for the average shade tree mechanic. I have not tried it myself. I opted for a professional rebuild simply because the kit costs almost as much as a rebuilt booster. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Sunday, March 07, 2010 8:13 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Off - Need to take off Booster? The fluid leaked down the back of the brake MC and made a big puddle on the floor during winter storage. MC is off now. Do I need to remove the booster to check anything? I didn't notice any problem with the booster before. I have a new MC to put on. Maybe I should do the proper Shipwright thing and remove booster and send it away somewhere for rebuild, just to be sure. I see BPNW has a booster rebuild kit, but I hear this is a difficult at home job w/o special tools. Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 Tr6 From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Mon Mar 8 15:36:59 2010 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Mon, 8 Mar 2010 14:36:59 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Off - Need to take off Booster? In-Reply-To: <9769.38235.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <9769.38235.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <609975.8052.qm@web36104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bruce This is from Todd Just wanted to let you guys know that we are repairing Brake boosters on Triumph cars. We purchased the equipment & inventory of PARTCO Automotive in March of this year. We have been trained by Gary Price and are now ready to help you keep yor car stopping. We will be offering the same services & pricing that Gary offered, and we reline brake shoes and build brake hoses as well. We are celebrating our 70th year this year. We are: Brake Materials & Parts, INC _800 Sherman Blvd_Fort Wayne, IN 46808 260-426-3331 Scott We are looking forward to helping you..Scott ________________________________ From: Bruce Simms To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, March 7, 2010 11:13:12 PM Subject: [6pack] Brake MC Off - Need to take off Booster? The fluid leaked down the back of the brake MC and made a big puddle on the floor during winter storage. MC is off now. Do I need to remove the booster to check anything? I didn't notice any problem with the booster before. I have a new MC to put on. Maybe I should do the proper Shipwright thing and remove booster and send it away somewhere for rebuild, just to be sure. I see BPNW has a booster rebuild kit, but I hear this is a difficult at home job w/o special tools. Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 Tr6 __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Mon Mar 15 17:31:29 2010 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 20:31:29 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector Message-ID: <1D4CA224-4B93-42DB-B61D-3DBC9C7070C4@nc.rr.com> Has anyone any experience with placing a wind deflector along the top of the windshield? You know, something like a sunroof wind deflector. Being of non-short torso length, and being as there's not much choice in hats with chin straps these days, I'd like to see if there's a simple way to cut the top-of-the-pate buffeting (plus I hate going back to pick up toupis  I worry that people think I'm picking up roadkill). I'm thinking of an approach that would be secured into the ragtop latch holes or something. Perhaps a Gurney strip glued along the frame just in front of the ragtop's front edge. I dunno. Anybody done that? Doug Morris, NC From f700fast at yahoo.com Mon Mar 15 17:45:51 2010 From: f700fast at yahoo.com (Tom Rand) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 17:45:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Top Speed & RPM Message-ID: <632511.24586.qm@web55304.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Hello List, Its been awhile since I've asked a question. I read somewhere and I can't find it the top speed of the carb and fuel injection TR6 engines. I know they had different gearing and horse power. Does anyone have recorded top speeds stock and modified including RPM? From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Mar 15 21:58:33 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Mon, 15 Mar 2010 22:58:33 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector References: <1D4CA224-4B93-42DB-B61D-3DBC9C7070C4@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: Doug: Why ruin your appearance with a wind deflector that looks out of place, when you can buy a really cool hat with chin straps: http://www.amazon.com/TotallyCostumes-Old-Fashioned-Flying-Helmet/dp/B000OWESH0 It is even vintage, and a very suitable head gear for a non-short torso TR driver. Ed Bratt Regina Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Morris" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 6:31 PM Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Tue Mar 16 00:34:04 2010 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 03:34:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector In-Reply-To: References: <1D4CA224-4B93-42DB-B61D-3DBC9C7070C4@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: Ed, Good recommendation. I actually have a fur-lined aviator helmet for those cold days, along with gauntlet motorcycle gloves, and a jan-u-ine USAF leather flight jacket (an' a white silk scarf for those formal occasions). However, that's more of a MG-TC kind'a outfit. Not a Spring-Summer solution, though. Hmm, maybe double-sided carpet tape along the sweatband. Doug Morris, NC On Mar 16, 2010, at 12:58 AM, ed wrote: > Doug: > > Why ruin your appearance with a wind deflector that looks out of place, when you can buy a really cool hat with chin straps: > > http://www.amazon.com/TotallyCostumes-Old-Fashioned-Flying-Helmet/dp/B000OWES H0 > > It is even vintage, and a very suitable head gear for a non-short torso TR driver. > > Ed Bratt > Regina Saskatchewan > 1976 TR6 > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Douglas Morris" > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Monday, March 15, 2010 6:31 PM > Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 16 06:46:30 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 09:46:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector In-Reply-To: <1D4CA224-4B93-42DB-B61D-3DBC9C7070C4@nc.rr.com> References: <1D4CA224-4B93-42DB-B61D-3DBC9C7070C4@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: Hi, I can't help with the wind deflector thing, but some of us fashion a small fishing line with a loop at each end... you then loop one end around the head rest and the other through the adjasta loop (*) in the hat and VIOLA! - your hat stays with the car. Even when you try to get out of the car. But at least you don't have to chase your hat down on a busy motorway. (*) to those not from Boston, that's adjustER rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Mar 16 06:56:15 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:56:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector In-Reply-To: References: <1D4CA224-4B93-42DB-B61D-3DBC9C7070C4@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815E6D958@G4W1849.americas.hpqcorp.net> So are you suggesting this would also work with the toupee ?. I think double sided tape would be more versatile and would also work for combovers. Thoroughly degrease both surfaces before applying tape. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert M. Lang Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 9:47 AM To: Douglas Morris Cc: 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Wind deflector Hi, I can't help with the wind deflector thing, but some of us fashion a small fishing line with a loop at each end... you then loop one end around the head rest and the other through the adjasta loop (*) in the hat and VIOLA! - your hat stays with the car. Even when you try to get out of the car. But at least you don't have to chase your hat down on a busy motorway. (*) to those not from Boston, that's adjustER rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Mar 16 07:05:53 2010 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 14:05:53 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wind deflector Message-ID: <444299800-1268748159-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1012133133-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Think I would look at the 3M spray adhesive for highway speeds. '-) ------Original Message------ From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: Robert M. Lang To: Douglas Morris Cc: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] Wind deflector Sent: Mar 16, 2010 8:56 AM So are you suggesting this would also work with the toupee ?. I think double sided tape would be more versatile and would also work for combovers. Thoroughly degrease both surfaces before applying tape. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert M. Lang Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 9:47 AM To: Douglas Morris Cc: 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Wind deflector Hi, I can't help with the wind deflector thing, but some of us fashion a small fishing line with a loop at each end... you then loop one end around the head rest and the other through the adjasta loop (*) in the hat and VIOLA! - your hat stays with the car. Even when you try to get out of the car. But at least you don't have to chase your hat down on a busy motorway. (*) to those not from Boston, that's adjustER rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com Luis From rnorris1 at swbell.net Tue Mar 16 12:38:16 2010 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 12:38:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector Message-ID: <519911.60924.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have nothing to offer regarding a wind deflector but, when I acquired my TR6 about 5 years ago, my wife presented me with a small bungee cord, about 8" long, with alligator clips at each end. One end is clipped to the adjustor / adjustoband of my ball cap, the other end to my shirt collar. It has saved a lost cap many times since. I suppose it's possible to engineer a similar solution for those who sport a toupee; perhaps with double sided tape on one end. Hmmm...any entrepreneurs out there? Rick Norris From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Mar 16 17:18:27 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 16:18:27 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector References: <519911.60924.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002601cac567$5e1aabb0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Those little bungee's are available boating supply shops. http://www.madriveroutfitters.com/pc-468-186-hat-keeper.aspx Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Norris" To: Cc: "6-pack listserve" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 11:38 AM Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector > I have nothing to offer regarding a wind deflector but, when I acquired my TR6 about 5 years ago, my wife presented me with a small bungee cord, about 8" long, with alligator clips at each end. One end is clipped to the adjustor / adjustoband of my ball cap, the other end to my shirt collar. It has saved a lost cap many times since. > > I suppose it's possible to engineer a similar solution for those who sport a toupee; perhaps with double sided tape on one end. Hmmm...any entrepreneurs out there? > > Rick Norris > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14570 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14570 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Tue Mar 16 13:59:43 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 13:59:43 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector In-Reply-To: <519911.60924.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <353478.87618.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My wife wants me to get a wind deflector, but it doesn't have anything to do with my car. JJ --- On Tue, 3/16/10, Rick Norris wrote: From: Rick Norris Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector To: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Cc: "6-pack listserve" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 2:38 PM I have nothing to offer regarding a wind deflector but, when I acquired my TR6 about 5 years ago, my wife presented me with a small bungee cord, about 8" long, with alligator clips at each end. One end is clipped to the adjustor / adjustoband of my ball cap, the other end to my shirt collar. It has saved a lost cap many times since. I suppose it's possible to engineer a similar solution for those who sport a toupee; perhaps with double sided tape on one end. Hmmm...any entrepreneurs out there? Rick Norris _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Mar 16 18:42:54 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 17:42:54 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector References: <353478.87618.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003701cac573$2a8fd2a0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> There's always Beano! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Jones" Cc: "6-pack listserve" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 12:59 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Wind Deflector > My wife wants me to get a wind deflector, but it doesn't have anything to do > with my car. > > JJ > > --- On Tue, 3/16/10, Rick Norris wrote: > > > From: Rick Norris > Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector > To: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com > Cc: "6-pack listserve" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 2:38 PM > > > I have nothing to offer regarding a wind deflector but, when I acquired my TR6 > about 5 years ago, my wife presented me with a small bungee cord, about 8" > long, with alligator clips at each end. One end is clipped to the adjustor / > adjustoband of my ball cap, the other end to my shirt collar. It has saved a > lost cap many times since. > > I suppose it's possible to engineer a similar solution for those who sport a > toupee; perhaps with double sided tape on one end. Hmmm...any entrepreneurs > out there? > > Rick Norris > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14570 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14570 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From bratt at sasktel.net Tue Mar 16 17:33:28 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 18:33:28 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector References: <353478.87618.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <652AD4F20C1A4C16980DD45B1EC63DFD@willhuq4x0qsgd> > My wife wants me to get a wind deflector, but it doesn't have anything to do > with my car. > JJ Jim: And, ..... you would be a Budweiser man? Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Jones" Cc: "6-pack listserve" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 2:59 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Wind Deflector > My wife wants me to get a wind deflector, but it doesn't have anything to > do > with my car. > > JJ > > --- On Tue, 3/16/10, Rick Norris wrote: > > > From: Rick Norris > Subject: [6pack] Wind Deflector > To: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com > Cc: "6-pack listserve" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: Tuesday, March 16, 2010, 2:38 PM > > > I have nothing to offer regarding a wind deflector but, when I acquired my > TR6 > about 5 years ago, my wife presented me with a small bungee cord, about 8" > long, with alligator clips at each end. One end is clipped to the adjustor > / > adjustoband of my ball cap, the other end to my shirt collar. It has saved > a > lost cap many times since. > > I suppose it's possible to engineer a similar solution for those who sport > a > toupee; perhaps with double sided tape on one end. Hmmm...any > entrepreneurs > out there? > > Rick Norris > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Mar 16 19:31:46 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 16 Mar 2010 22:31:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls Message-ID: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the late TR6 and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there for MGB, Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the existing screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this or have a part# that would fit? From triosan at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 08:10:22 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 08:10:22 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rule of 13 for valve adjustment Message-ID: <8cbd782d1003170810u7299a5c7kb7079b7608691d87@mail.gmail.com> Scott Janzen asked for an explanation of the "Rule of 13" for valve adjusting [in response to another mail string on FOT list]. Here is my reply: The way it works is you take the number of the valve that is most open [spring compressed] and subtract that valve's number from 13. The result is the valve you should be adjusting. Example: Number 7 valve is fully compressed. 13-7=6. Adjust valve 6. I worked out a sequence yesterday by logic, have not validated against the machine till Friday. Here it is [note, the amount of rotation varies. Figuring 110 degree of lobe separation, it will be 10 degrees between 1 and 6, then 110 between 6 and 5,then 10 degrees between 5 and 10, etc. That is why you actually can adjust in pairs, that is 1 and 6 compressed,adjust 12 and 7. [this does not jive with the pairs in the manual,so I may have worked out the numbers correctly].: open adjust 1 12 6 7 5 8 10 3 2 11 9 4 12 1 7 6 8 5 3 10 11 2 4 9 -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Mar 17 10:35:14 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 11:35:14 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls In-Reply-To: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> References: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> Message-ID: Bob, I have the TR4 door pulls on my 6. They were there when I bought the car so I'm not sure how they're attached but they are very handy and solid. The top of the door where the TR6 vinyl/foam/hand pull was is painted body color. I bought some replacement vinyl/foam/hand pull strips but never put them on but even if I did I think I'd still keep the TR4 pulls since they are so functional and they wouldn't have to be moved to accomadate the TR6 strips. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Mar 16, 2010, at 8:31 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the > late TR6 > and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there > for MGB, > Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the > existing > screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this > or have a > part# that would fit? > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From jimhurle at gmail.com Wed Mar 17 16:06:21 2010 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Wed, 17 Mar 2010 19:06:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential Removal Update Message-ID: <2d6b54e11003171606y3be4f77cs912ea7ae54f3bafb@mail.gmail.com> Hello, About a month ago I posted that in trying to remove the diff, the bolts were turning, at least one of them. Several people responded with helpful thoughts.And people asked me to let everyone know how it worked out. So ... A beautiful sunny day in the high sixties here in the Boston area. I hit the nuts with more PBlaster last week. Today I tried an old trick - I tightened the nuts as much as I could. One never seemed to tighten - the right front. Then I twisted each one as hard as I could in the off direction. And they all came loose! If this had not worked, I would have used the nut-cutter to get them off. So this turned out to be a great day!!! Bad news is that the right front mount is cracked almost straight across from side to side. Good news is that this is repairable, right? It looks to me like I could cut the cracked bracket out with an angle grinder and then make a piece to replace it, then box it in. Does this make sense? Jim (Lucky) Hurley PS. The definition of an Irish American is someone who goes around on St. Patrick's Day, trying to stick their chest out as far as their belly! From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Thu Mar 18 05:14:34 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 05:14:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls Message-ID: <204909.57928.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I bought a couple of door pulls from the TR4 catalogue a little while ago thinking that they would probably fit on the 6 like they did on the 4. I haven't been able to readily find where they can be placed on the door and haven't pulled the door panel to check it our further. I would like to look at their location on the TR4 to duplicate the location on the 6 but haven't gotten around to that yet either. It may be that the insides of the doors changed on the 6 from the 4 since the exterior design was changed. There are more and more things that I'm not getting around to yet so I'll be glad to learn how Bob deals with this issue. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 From lfm614 at aol.com Thu Mar 18 07:40:26 2010 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:40:26 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls Message-ID: <1995659529-1268923028-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-273775551-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Mike, Bobby posted on forum, goof responses with pics and hardware needed. Go check it out. ------Original Message------ From: michael lunsford Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls Sent: Mar 18, 2010 7:14 AM I bought a couple of door pulls from the TR4 catalogue a little while ago thinking that they would probably fit on the 6 like they did on the 4. I haven't been able to readily find where they can be placed on the door and haven't pulled the door panel to check it our further. I would like to look at their location on the TR4 to duplicate the location on the 6 but haven't gotten around to that yet either. It may be that the insides of the doors changed on the 6 from the 4 since the exterior design was changed. There are more and more things that I'm not getting around to yet so I'll be glad to learn how Bob deals with this issue. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com Luis From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Mar 18 07:52:01 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 10:52:01 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls In-Reply-To: <204909.57928.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <204909.57928.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <048645BBC2454283A9FE850538FDE438@BobPC> Mike, My understanding is that the TR6 door already has the required square holes. You can see them here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/DoorPull1.jpg Bob -------------------------------------------------- From: "michael lunsford" Sent: Thursday, March 18, 2010 8:14 AM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls > I bought a couple of door pulls from the TR4 catalogue a little while ago > thinking that they would probably fit on the 6 like they did on the 4. I > haven't been able to readily find where they can be placed on the door and > haven't pulled the door panel to check it our further. I would like to > look > at their location on the TR4 to duplicate the location on the 6 but > haven't > gotten around to that yet either. It may be that the insides of the doors > changed on the 6 from the 4 since the exterior design was changed. There > are > more and more things that I'm not getting around to yet so I'll be glad to > learn how Bob deals with this issue. > > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Thu Mar 18 14:43:40 2010 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Thu, 18 Mar 2010 14:43:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls In-Reply-To: <204909.57928.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <204909.57928.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <117001.34881.qm@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Mike There was a discussion on this very subject on the 6-pack site with pictures. I believe Bob was asking this question, if you can go to his site as it seems he has everything there. Dale ________________________________ From: michael lunsford To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, March 18, 2010 8:14:34 AM Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls I bought a couple of door pulls from the TR4 catalogue a little while ago thinking that they would probably fit on the 6 like they did on the 4. I haven't been able to readily find where they can be placed on the door and haven't pulled the door panel to check it our further. I would like to look at their location on the TR4 to duplicate the location on the 6 but haven't gotten around to that yet either. It may be that the insides of the doors changed on the 6 from the 4 since the exterior design was changed. There are more and more things that I'm not getting around to yet so I'll be glad to learn how Bob deals with this issue. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com From sakirsis at consolidated.net Fri Mar 19 17:33:26 2010 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Fri, 19 Mar 2010 19:33:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs Message-ID: Hey Guys, Putting on new stock rear springs on my '70 tomorrow. I know it is a pretty simple job but is there any technique or pitfalls to avoid? Thanks, Steve Kirsis, '70 and '75 6's. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Mar 19 18:27:17 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 01:27:17 GMT Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs Message-ID: Steve-- Changing the rear springs is easy. After removing the wheels, disconnect the rear shock (links) to allow the trailing arm to drop down. You may have to then turn the rear hub a few deg. to let the u-joint drop lower onto the frame. At this point the spring should be 'unloaded', and will pop out by inserting a screwdriver between one of the top coils and the spring crossmember. When installing the new spring, you'll want to place the bottom into the trailing arm first, then twist the spring into position at the top. Again, a screwdriver can help coax it into place. I have neer had to use a spring compressor to do this job, using both stock and the stiffer springs. Dick From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Mar 19 18:37:43 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 20 Mar 2010 01:37:43 GMT Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs, part 2 Message-ID: Steve---Sometimes I leave out the obvious, and hear about it! I will now add that one should jack up the rear and place jack stands under the frame. Then, place a jack under the trailing arm to slightly compress the rear spring. This will make taking off the nut that holds the shock link in place easier. Once the shock link is disconnected, lower the jack and the trailing arm will drop. After installing the new spring, you'll need to place the jack under the t-arm again to reconnect the shock link. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Friday, March 19, 2010 6:27 PM To: Steve Kirsis, 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Springs Steve-- Changing the rear springs is easy. After removing the wheels, disconnect the rear shock (links) to allow the trailing arm to drop down. You may have to then turn the rear hub a few deg. to let the u-joint drop lower onto the frame. At this point the spring should be 'unloaded', and will pop out by inserting a screwdriver between one of the top coils and the spring crossmember. When installing the new spring, you'll want to place the bottom into the trailing arm first, then twist the spring into position at the top. Again, a screwdriver can help coax it into place. I have neer had to use a spring compressor to do this job, using both stock and the stiffer springs. Dick _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From sakirsis at consolidated.net Sun Mar 21 11:28:32 2010 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 13:28:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs Message-ID: <3BBA7F125D814EF489161EA956BD1ED8@stevekirsisPC> Hi guys, What I thought was going to be an easy job has turned a bit sour. The replacement rear shocks from TRF for my '70 6 are about 1.5 lbs heavier than the ones I am replacing. It has been fruitless so far as the new one with the uprated pads will just not got in. A spring compressor is not suppose to be necessary but I see no way round it. The springs from TRF are marked green and red. Stock rear springs. I have the TA lowered as far as possible with the hub adjusted to its lowest. Any secrets? I have always wanted a spring compressor. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. From sakirsis at consolidated.net Sun Mar 21 13:34:21 2010 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 15:34:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I'm sorry Dick, I meant heavier springs. They are the same length but a pound and a half each heavier. I am going back at it again tonight. This time with 2 screwdrivers and a big bang. The TA is at its lowest point as I was able to get it about an inch lower with your suggestion to turn the hub. I don't dare install the springs without the spring pads. Steve. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: "Steve Kirsis" Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 2:25 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Springs > Steve---You have me confused! You write about springs, shocks and pads. > > Heavier shocks? should not interfere with installing the springs. > > To what pads are you referring? Are they the ones that go between the top > and bottom of the springs? IF so, you COULD leave one or both of them out, > which would make installing the new springs easier. > > A spring *compressor can be purchased, as you know. They are not all that > easy to use, however. Are you certain that the trailing arm has dropped to > its lowest position? This means that the u-joint yoke is now resting on > the frame. (You may have to feel for this, as the rubber sleeve blocks the > view) I have TRF's uprated springs on the rear, and I'm able to get these > springs in without a compressor. I will admit that once I get the top coil > started into the top perch, I sometimes have to kick it in the rest of the > way! I use two screwdrivers to get between the top coil and under the > crossmember/top perch. Turning the spring around several degrees also > makes it "shorter". > > *If none of this works, get one of those cheap compressors that fit over > two coils and squeezes them together on each side. > Most autoparts stores carry them. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Steve Kirsis > Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 11:28 AM > To: 6pack > Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs > > Hi guys, What I thought was going to be an easy job has turned a bit sour. > The > replacement rear shocks from TRF for my '70 6 are about 1.5 lbs heavier > than > the ones I am replacing. It has been fruitless so far as the new one with > the > uprated pads will just not got in. A spring compressor is not suppose to > be > necessary but I see no way round it. The springs from TRF are marked green > and > red. Stock rear springs. I have the TA lowered as far as possible with the > hub > adjusted to its lowest. Any secrets? I have always wanted a spring > compressor. > Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From sakirsis at consolidated.net Sun Mar 21 15:00:33 2010 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 17:00:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs In-Reply-To: <40DA5552ADF54D4089343EA2D0FFB0E6@FoxconnPC> References: <3BBA7F125D814EF489161EA956BD1ED8@stevekirsisPC> <40DA5552ADF54D4089343EA2D0FFB0E6@FoxconnPC> Message-ID: <7412CFEF5C204B54B02CFB8C8D91E750@stevekirsisPC> By Gosh Hugh, I think you've got it!! The rubber gaiters are in need of replacement and the outer and inner u joints could get a good grease. So off comes the hub. Ship Wright anyone? Its cold anyway. Steve Kirsis ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hugh R McAleer" To: "Steve Kirsis" Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 3:41 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Springs > You could either unbolt the axle from the diff or remove them completely > for more room. > > Hugh > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Steve Kirsis" > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Sunday, March 21, 2010 2:28 PM > Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs > > >> Hi guys, What I thought was going to be an easy job has turned a bit >> sour. The >> replacement rear shocks from TRF for my '70 6 are about 1.5 lbs heavier >> than >> the ones I am replacing. It has been fruitless so far as the new one with >> the >> uprated pads will just not got in. A spring compressor is not suppose to >> be >> necessary but I see no way round it. The springs from TRF are marked >> green and >> red. Stock rear springs. I have the TA lowered as far as possible with >> the hub >> adjusted to its lowest. Any secrets? I have always wanted a spring >> compressor. >> Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net From jimmble at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 21 17:59:26 2010 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Sun, 21 Mar 2010 20:59:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BA6C0EE.70100@roadrunner.com> On some TR6's you need to undo the axle from the diff to allow the droop necessary to install the springs. The axle hits the frame rail and it won't drop far enough. Jim Franks From triosan at gmail.com Mon Mar 22 10:35:09 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 10:35:09 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Got a problem with the race car, need advice Message-ID: <8cbd782d1003221035s6ca4f69bj19ffaf1b4ecfb04b@mail.gmail.com> I have a petrol injected TR6 race car. It has a Pertronix distributor [the whole distributor, not just the points replacement in a stock dizzy]. I also have a Crane ignition. First time out with the car this year. Drove a few sessions Friday, then more on Sunday. First two runs Friday went OK as far as the engine goes [had suspension issues, but worked those out]. The third session was longer, and over the course of it the car started to cut out under WOT at about 4500 to 5500 RPM. It did not do this always, but most of the time. The tach would swing wildly. It felt a little like a rev limiter [which is setto 7000 RPM],but only for an instant. I did some investigating and found that I did not have the distributor fully locked, and it had "walked" to quite far advanced. I though putting it back to where it belonged would fix the issue. IT did not. At the Sunday event it just got worse, so I only got one long session in. So, I beleieve there is a problem with either the Pertronix or the Crane. I am asking for advice from all the TR groups I belong to. What do you think, and how should I diagnose it? I do have a dual point Mallory dizzy I can install -- but may have no way to check out if it helps until race day. OR, do any of my Seattle area race buddies know of a road I could run a couple of test on [6K in second will do it] \! Thanks, Chuck -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 22 11:29:04 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 11:29:04 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Got a problem with the race car, need advice References: <8cbd782d1003221035s6ca4f69bj19ffaf1b4ecfb04b@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569084F9D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Chuck: I am going to assume that your tach is electric rather than mechanical. The reason this is important is that if it is mechanical, the tach has nothing to do with your ignition issues. If you have replaced the stock tach with an electric one, it is giving you an important clue as to what is happening with the ignition. I must also state that I do not run a Pertronix, so I am merely speculating and asking questions. I am not speaking from experience so forgive me if I state the obvious or say something ridiculous. I believe that the Pertronix is magnetically triggered, so I must ask if you have checked the gap between the magnetic pick up and the magnets inside the dizzy. I do not know if it is adjustable, but if it is, then it sounds as though your pickup is not getting a clean signal from the little whirling magnets so check the gap. Does your dizzy have a vacuum advance? If so, it it sticking? You said the breakup occurs at WOT, which is when the vacuum advance should be disabled. If it is sticking, it may be hanging on longer than it should so you run with too much advance. Any indication of pinging (audible)? Are there any little bits of aluminum on your spark plug electrodes (non-audible. Very destructive.). I think the Pertronix uses replaceable advance limiters, yes? Have they come loose? Both advance springs still attached correctly? How much total advance have you tailored the dizzy for? You should run no more than 34 to 36 degrees of total advance (static timing plus mechanical advance). Vacuum advance would be in addition to the mechanical advance. For racing, if you have vacuum advance try disconnecting it completely. Vacuum advance is only for economy, and really does nothing for performance. So try no vacuum advance just to eliminate that as a source of problems. just my $0.02 Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:35 AM Subject: [6pack] Got a problem with the race car, need advice I have a petrol injected TR6 race car. It has a Pertronix distributor [the whole distributor, not just the points replacement in a stock dizzy]. I also have a Crane ignition. The third session was longer, and over the course of it the car started to cut out under WOT at about 4500 to 5500 RPM. It did not do this always, but most of the time. The tach would swing wildly. It felt a little like a rev limiter [which is setto 7000 RPM],but only for an instant. I did some investigating and found that I did not have the distributor fully locked, and it had "walked" to quite far advanced. I though putting it back to where it belonged would fix the issue. It did not. At the Sunday event it just got worse, so I only got one long session in. Chuck From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 22 11:56:28 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 18:56:28 GMT Subject: [6pack] Got a problem with the race car, need advice Message-ID: Chuck---Maybe your suspicions about bumping up against the (faulty) rev limiter is because this is what is happening. If your is the kind with a replaceable outside chip, try doing this, or leave it out completely for test purposes. If doing this is not an option, then I'd go back to the Mallory, and run the engine up to the rpm stumble zone in second gear. Any freeway should legally allow such a test. Sounds like something electrical is indeed breaking up, causing the tach needle to swing. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:35 AM To: Friends, Triumph, TR list Subject: [6pack] Got a problem with the race car, need advice I have a petrol injected TR6 race car. It has a Pertronix distributor [the whole distributor, not just the points replacement in a stock dizzy]. I also have a Crane ignition. First time out with the car this year. Drove a few sessions Friday, then more on Sunday. First two runs Friday went OK as far as the engine goes [had suspension issues, but worked those out]. The third session was longer, and over the course of it the car started to cut out under WOT at about 4500 to 5500 RPM. It did not do this always, but most of the time. The tach would swing wildly. It felt a little like a rev limiter [which is setto 7000 RPM],but only for an instant. I did some investigating and found that I did not have the distributor fully locked, and it had "walked" to quite far advanced. I though putting it back to where it belonged would fix the issue. IT did not. At the Sunday event it just got worse, so I only got one long session in. So, I beleieve there is a problem with either the Pertronix or the Crane. I am asking for advice from all the TR groups I belong to. What do you think, and how should I diagnose it? I do have a dual point Mallory dizzy I can install -- but may have no way to check out if it helps until race day. OR, do any of my Seattle area race buddies know of a road I could run a couple of test on [6K in second will do it] \! Thanks, Chuck -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Mar 22 13:00:58 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 13:00:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs Message-ID: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Steve, Why don't you dare install the springs without the spring pads? From what I have seen they are only there to prevent rattles. If you are trying to use uprated neoprine type pads they are probably thicker than the original thin rubber pads. I have had my shocks out a whole bunch of times, have run my car with and without the pads and didn't notice any difference. I'm also running KYB tube shocks. Mike Lunsford From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Mar 22 13:11:39 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 13:11:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Race Car Problem Message-ID: <881240.45638.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Chuck, Have you considered whether or not the new dizzy and crane setup calls for a ballasted or non ballasted coil. I recently had my dizzy rebuilt by Advanced Distributors (NFI) and had him install the pertronix insert installed he was doing the rebuild. The guy (sorry don't racall who but he did a great Job) wanted me to be sure that I had the proper coil installed since I told him I had problems with Pertronix ignitions in the past. My 1970 came with an unballasted ignition setup which he said probably provided too much voltage to the pertronix setup and burnt it out. The symptoms you described are the same as I observed on the old setup that went bad. Good luck. Mike Lunsford From sakirsis at consolidated.net Mon Mar 22 16:20:54 2010 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 18:20:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs In-Reply-To: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1761BE77A9514E298BA5D99C36C76FA6@stevekirsisPC> Thanks to all for the help with the new springs in my '70. I disconnected the axle fron the differential and voila, the TA fell about 2 more inches for a slick fit with the new uprated pads. It is very easy when you get great info from the group. 1 shock in took about 7 hours. 2nd shock should be about 1 hour. Steve Kirsis '70 damson, '75 pimento. ----- Origiould nal Message ----- From: "michael lunsford" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:00 PM Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs > Steve, > > Why don't you dare install the springs without the spring pads? From what > I > have seen they are only there to prevent rattles. If you are trying to > use uprated neoprine type pads they are probably thicker than the original > thin rubber pads. I have had my shocks out a whole bunch of times, have > run > my car with and without the pads and didn't notice any difference. I'm > also > running KYB tube shocks. > > Mike Lunsford > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/sakirsis at consolidated.net From sakirsis at consolidated.net Mon Mar 22 16:24:35 2010 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 18:24:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs In-Reply-To: <1761BE77A9514E298BA5D99C36C76FA6@stevekirsisPC> References: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <1761BE77A9514E298BA5D99C36C76FA6@stevekirsisPC> Message-ID: <6FA5F5EF48184C009B44D7C6B83E3687@stevekirsisPC> I don't know why but I keep saying shock when I am obviously talking about the springs. Old age. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Kirsis" To: "michael lunsford" Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 6:20 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Springs > Thanks to all for the help with the new springs in my '70. I disconnected > the axle fron the differential and voila, the TA fell about 2 more inches > for a slick fit with the new uprated pads. It is very easy when you get > great info from the group. 1 shock in took about 7 hours. 2nd shock should > be about 1 hour. Steve Kirsis '70 damson, '75 pimento. > ----- Origiould nal Message ----- > From: "michael lunsford" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs > > >> Steve, >> >> Why don't you dare install the springs without the spring pads? From >> what I >> have seen they are only there to prevent rattles. If you are trying to >> use uprated neoprine type pads they are probably thicker than the >> original >> thin rubber pads. I have had my shocks out a whole bunch of times, have >> run >> my car with and without the pads and didn't notice any difference. I'm >> also >> running KYB tube shocks. >> >> Mike Lunsford >> _______________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/sakirsis at consolidated.net > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/sakirsis at consolidated.net From jimmble at roadrunner.com Mon Mar 22 17:59:54 2010 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 20:59:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs In-Reply-To: <1761BE77A9514E298BA5D99C36C76FA6@stevekirsisPC> References: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <1761BE77A9514E298BA5D99C36C76FA6@stevekirsisPC> Message-ID: <4BA8128A.9040809@roadrunner.com> Excellent. Not all cars need to disconnect, but depending on the spring and the configuration of the differing forward attachments, some do. Jim Franks On 3/22/2010 7:20 PM, Steve Kirsis wrote: > Thanks to all for the help with the new springs in my '70. I > disconnected the axle fron the differential and voila, the TA fell > about 2 more inches for a slick fit with the new uprated pads. It is > very easy when you get great info from the group. 1 shock in took > about 7 hours. 2nd shock should be about 1 hour. Steve Kirsis '70 > damson, '75 pimento. > ----- Origiould nal Message ----- From: "michael lunsford" > > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 3:00 PM > Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs > > >> Steve, >> >> Why don't you dare install the springs without the spring pads? From >> what I >> have seen they are only there to prevent rattles. If you are trying to >> use uprated neoprine type pads they are probably thicker than the >> original >> thin rubber pads. I have had my shocks out a whole bunch of times, >> have run >> my car with and without the pads and didn't notice any difference. >> I'm also >> running KYB tube shocks. >> >> Mike Lunsford >> _______________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/sakirsis at consolidated.net > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimmble at roadrunner.com From wcwellbaum at cox.net Mon Mar 22 19:18:04 2010 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 19:18:04 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs References: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <474A103A140C4A2698490C1462B7F784@office> To prevent rattles and to help correct excessive negative camber caused by tired springs. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas BACLV.org ----- Original Message ----- From: "michael lunsford" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 1:00 PM Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs > Steve, > > Why don't you dare install the springs without the spring pads? From what > I > have seen they are only there to prevent rattles. If you are trying to > use uprated neoprine type pads they are probably thicker than the original > thin rubber pads. I have had my shocks out a whole bunch of times, have > run > my car with and without the pads and didn't notice any difference. I'm > also > running KYB tube shocks. > > Mike Lunsford > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Mar 22 19:25:27 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:25:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs References: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <474A103A140C4A2698490C1462B7F784@office> Message-ID: <096BE82747E34B1A954FBA37C94CB36B@Alan> You want the rubber pads between the steel springs and the aluminum trailing arms also to prevent galvanic corrosion to the trailing arms and springs. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Wellbaum" To: "michael lunsford" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 10:18 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear Springs > To prevent rattles and to help correct excessive negative camber caused by > tired springs. > > Bill Wellbaum > British Auto Club of Las Vegas > BACLV.org > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "michael lunsford" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Monday, March 22, 2010 1:00 PM > Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs > > >> Steve, >> >> Why don't you dare install the springs without the spring pads? From >> what I >> have seen they are only there to prevent rattles. If you are trying to >> use uprated neoprine type pads they are probably thicker than the >> original >> thin rubber pads. I have had my shocks out a whole bunch of times, have >> run >> my car with and without the pads and didn't notice any difference. I'm >> also >> running KYB tube shocks. >> >> Mike Lunsford >> _______________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Mar 22 19:55:29 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 22 Mar 2010 22:55:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Rear Springs In-Reply-To: <474A103A140C4A2698490C1462B7F784@office> References: <921068.29023.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <474A103A140C4A2698490C1462B7F784@office> Message-ID: On Mon, 22 Mar 2010, Bill Wellbaum wrote: > To prevent rattles and to help correct excessive negative camber caused by > tired springs. I've set up several different TR6 setups with different springs. I have never had a spring rattle problem except when running extremely short springs and even then you need to get really, really out of shape. But a spring needing a rubber or stiffer buffer between the spring and the pans is totally not necessary. You can correct something like 11 degrees of camber through the entire range on the stock brackets and you can probably dial in a lot more with the Goodparts adjustable brackets. The "issue" is that some of the spring rubbers are stiffer than the original pieces, and putting in a stiffer spring than what you are taking out along with the stiffer spring rubbers, the effective length of the spring increases and you wind up with too much positive camber! "I'm just sayin'" rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue Mar 23 12:16:15 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Tue, 23 Mar 2010 12:16:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Chuck's Ignition Woes Message-ID: <739468.43358.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Yes, Jeff at Advanced Distributors is very knowledgable about Petronix, Crane and all the ignition stuff. Talked to him last week when he re-built and re-curved my Lucas. He found serious issues with wornout advance springs and the Crane setup under the cap was off. Take your cap off carefully he advises as Crane mechanism easily disturbed. Also many year accumulation of oil and crap in the distributor was cleaned. Timing was seriously off, as he said, I had a miss I couldn't find. I have the Crane 3000 setup, which he likes. It'll be fun to get going with the new distributor to complement my other engine upgrades. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Mar 24 06:50:58 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:50:58 -0400 Subject: [6pack] shipping a hardtop Message-ID: I need to ship a hardtop. Has anyone done this. what shipper? Can it be just straped to a pallet? Thanks , Al From anabil007 at comcast.net Wed Mar 24 09:54:49 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 09:54:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] shipping a hardtop In-Reply-To: <3b0049461003240923p287fd68at2f16e721adea1860@mail.gmail.com> References: <3b0049461003240923p287fd68at2f16e721adea1860@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Tacking onto a similar thread, I have a Factory Steel Hardtop for the TR6, in perfect condition, been hanging in my garage since 2005 ... painted Ferrari Red. Anyone interested? I have no idea as to its value. All mounting hardware and instruction manual included. >A good friend (local) had an Austin Healey hardtop shipped by Greyhound. > >Wrapped it with cardboard and padding, there was a size limit and he >was close. In fact they said it was too large but the driver tried it >in the compartment (below deck like the one they use for luggage) and >it fit so they took it. > >His one recommendation -- for a slight extra fee they will guarantee >which bus it will arrive on (otherwise it travels as space is >available) that way you can be at the bus station to meet it. > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Mar 24 11:47:39 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 18:47:39 GMT Subject: [6pack] shipping a hardtop Message-ID: Al---I've used a company called Yellow Freight deliver and pick up large, heavy items at the house. I suspect that the top in question will have to be crated, rather than just strapped to a pallet. You could give them a call, as I think they're nation-wide. Dick L.A. area From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Wed Mar 24 13:47:49 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 13:47:49 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Shipping a hard top Message-ID: <865752.41421.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Al, Put your soft top down, bolt the hard top to your TR6, drive to destination, unbolt hard top, if necessary, put up soft top, drive back home. Not much help but it sounds simple. Mike Lunsford-may be a FORMER friend of Al's. From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Mar 24 18:00:15 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Wed, 24 Mar 2010 21:00:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Shipping a hard top References: <865752.41421.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I decided to go with UShip.com Got a bid for $250.00. So, Slap it on a pallet and for its off to Kansas. Hello Dorthy. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "michael lunsford" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 24, 2010 4:47 PM Subject: [6pack] Shipping a hard top > Al, > > Put your soft top down, bolt the hard top to your TR6, drive to > destination, > unbolt hard top, if necessary, put up soft top, drive back home. Not much > help but it sounds simple. > > Mike Lunsford-may be a FORMER friend of Al's. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net From waltp58 at comcast.net Thu Mar 25 12:38:16 2010 From: waltp58 at comcast.net (walt) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 15:38:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] shipping a hardtop In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005d01cacc52$b77eb740$6401a8c0@home> Walt -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 6pack-request at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 3:00 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 69 Send 6pack mailing list submissions to 6pack at autox.team.net To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to 6pack-request at autox.team.net You can reach the person managing the list at 6pack-owner at autox.team.net When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." Today's Topics: Al, Keep in mind that as with any LTL (Less Than a Load) shipper, you are responsible for the integrity of the packaging. I've received equipment shipped by Yellow that was beat to s**t from sliding around in the truck. The driver's response? "I was wondering what that noise was." Yellow's response was that the packaging was insufficient. So crate it well. Walt '74 TR6 From jimhurle at gmail.com Thu Mar 25 13:10:15 2010 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 16:10:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Great Article about Car Insurance Message-ID: <2d6b54e11003251310u1c114af1p33feb285e66f14d@mail.gmail.com> Check out this article on Edmonds dot com about how to deal with Insurance Adjusters. Very informative and inciteful. http://www.edmunds.com/advice/insurance/articles/161707/article.html Jim Hurley 75 TR6 76 Arctic Tern 08 Pyranha Ammo From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Mar 25 17:22:23 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 16:22:23 -0800 Subject: [6pack] shipping a hardtop References: <005d01cacc52$b77eb740$6401a8c0@home> Message-ID: <000e01cacc7a$683b8cd0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> I'll vouch for that and, if that pallet/packing is heavy the (Yellow Trucking) driver has NO obligation to help with it. BTDT not with a hardtop. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "walt" To: Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 11:38 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] shipping a hardtop > Walt > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of 6pack-request at autox.team.net > Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 3:00 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 69 > > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > Al, > > Keep in mind that as with any LTL (Less Than a Load) shipper, you are > responsible for the integrity of the packaging. I've received equipment > shipped by Yellow that was beat to s**t from sliding around in the truck. > The driver's response? "I was wondering what that noise was." Yellow's > response was that the packaging was insufficient. So crate it well. > > Walt > '74 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14610 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14610 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Mar 25 15:39:45 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 15:39:45 -0700 Subject: [6pack] shipping a hardtop In-Reply-To: <000e01cacc7a$683b8cd0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> References: <005d01cacc52$b77eb740$6401a8c0@home> <000e01cacc7a$683b8cd0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569101067@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> My experience was pretty favorable. Got my hardtop via motor freight, but I had to take the SUV down to the terminal to pick it up. When I got their, the sent the fork lift into the terminal and brought it out to my SUV. The seller had crated it very neatly, such that I felt bad when I realized the crate made it too big to fit into my SUV. I had to pry the crate apart with a screw driver and toss the top into the SUV by itself. The freight guys were very nice and helped me pull the create apart so that I could get at the top. They asked what it was when they saw it, so I explained it was a factory hard top for an old British car. Anyway, got it home just fine, but the create was destroyed. Too bad, the crate was very pretty. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 5:22 PM To: walt; tr6parts at charter.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] shipping a hardtop I'll vouch for that and, if that pallet/packing is heavy the (Yellow Trucking) driver has NO obligation to help with it. BTDT not with a hardtop. Regards, Bob From n197tr4 at cs.com Thu Mar 25 16:58:04 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 19:58:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] shipping a hardtop In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569101067@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <005d01cacc52$b77eb740$6401a8c0@home><000e01cacc7a$683b8cd0$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569101067@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <8CC9A8E24A4A3B1-134-A873@Webmail-d121.sysops.aol.com> If you ship a hardtop off shore, there is another step. International crate shipping means that the wood has to be certified. This done by processing the wood with heat high enough to kill any organisms lurking within. (If your declaration says it is an automotive engine, inside, it really gets complex.) After all that work, it's very hard to throw away a wood crate that has 'birth certificate'. Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance To: Bob Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, Mar 25, 2010 5:39 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] shipping a hardtop My experience was pretty favorable. Got my hardtop via motor freight, but I ad to take the SUV down to the terminal to pick it up. When I got their, the sent the fork lift into the terminal and brought it ut o my SUV. The seller had crated it very neatly, such that I felt bad when I ealized the crate made it too big to fit into my SUV. I had to pry the crate part with a screw driver and toss the top into the SUV by itself. The freight uys were very nice and helped me pull the create apart so that I could get at he top. They asked what it was when they saw it, so I explained it was a factory ard op for an old British car. Anyway, got it home just fine, but the create was estroyed. Too bad, the crate was very pretty. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- rom: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On ehalf Of Bob ent: Thursday, March 25, 2010 5:22 PM o: walt; tr6parts at charter.net c: 6pack at autox.team.net ubject: Re: [6pack] shipping a hardtop I'll vouch for that and, if that pallet/packing is heavy the (Yellow rucking) driver has NO obligation to help with it. TDT not with a hardtop. egards, ob ______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From tidbinbilla at cox.net Thu Mar 25 20:55:10 2010 From: tidbinbilla at cox.net (tidbinbilla) Date: Thu, 25 Mar 2010 20:55:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Triumphest 2010 is now open. Message-ID: The Triumph Sports Car Club of San Diego is happy to announce that registration is now open for Triumphest 2010. The event is located in the resort town of Del Mar, just north of San Diego and takes place from October 7th through the 10th. We are using the Del Mar Hilton which is located just across the street from the world famous Del Mar Racetrack. We have a full slate of the events - including an autocross on the tarmac at the Racetrack - plus a few local specialties. Visit www.triumphest.com to register on-line or print a registration form if you prefer. David Stauffacher Triumph Sports Car Club of San Diego. From triosan at gmail.com Wed Mar 31 09:43:07 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2010 09:43:07 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Need a TR6 rod Message-ID: I need one, and better two, rods for a TR6 of the variety that does not have a small hole in it above the rod bearing area. I have 12 of those that do have holes and would be glad to swap a set for a couple without holes. I had a rod failure and have the other five rods/pistons all balanced and would like to just replace the one rod rather than prep 6 more. Thanks, -- Chuck Arnold