From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jun  1 00:37:25 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 06:37:25 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
Message-ID: <COL123-DS16D5BFA44E8326B73C7EB9F4EF0@phx.gbl>

John---Does the A/F monitor show full rich only at idle speeds? If so, does the monitor then recover into the rich area after rpm picks up? I need this info to give more help! Meanwhile, I'll just guess as to the problem and possible solutions.

a) The air valves are flying open because the oil in the dashpots is too thin.

b) The springs that help to keep the airvalve from coming up too fast are either missing or weak.

c) One carburetor is running too lean, but the monitor is sensing richness because the other one is too rich. (Measure the diameter of the needles right where they exit the air valves. They should be identical.

d) While the needles may be too rich at idle, they are not thin enough just off idle. (Your monitor is showing you the lean condition)

e) Be sure the ign. timing is advancing and following the engine speed.

There could be other problems, but making this list longer won't "get it through"!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: John North
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 4:35 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?

When I floor it at fairly low rpms, the engine coughs and splutters.
Very embarrassing in the auto cross.   I have a K&N O2 sensor system
installed, it normally shows quite rich (2 green bars), but when I
floor it it goes to full lean until the engine recovers.   Timing is
spot on, valves adjusted, gaps and points set, distributor rebuilt,
new rotor, new wires.   Have swapped out the coil.   Carbs are
balanced and set to mid range mix - two full turns from full rich,
doesn't seem to make much difference where they are set, O2 sensor
still shows well on the rich side and the engine stumbles horribly.
Dashpot oil filled.

This is a 76 with all the smog control equipment removed.   9.5-1
compression, mild porting, Good GP2 cam

Any suggestions?

John North
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Tue Jun  1 04:54:39 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 06:54:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS16D5BFA44E8326B73C7EB9F4EF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS16D5BFA44E8326B73C7EB9F4EF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimmbot9_T0RVFCsjglMuMbL6OtR6KV--BCx3t1M@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks for the help, Dick...

The A/F monitor is showing rich at all speeds.   The only time it
differs is when I floor it at low rpms in any gear when it goes off
the chart at lean.   I have a sensor on each exhaust pipe and a switch
to check each carb, they both show almost the same, one might be a
hair leaner.

I will change the dashpot oil and check the springs.   I think i have
some spares.   Also will check advance.

John

On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 2:37 AM, Sally or Dick Taylor
<tr6taylor at webtv.net> wrote:
> John---Does the A/F monitor show full rich only at idle speeds? If so, does
the monitor then recover into the rich area after rpm picks up? I need this
info to give more help! Meanwhile, I'll just guess as to the problem and
possible solutions.
>
> a) The air valves are flying open because the oil in the dashpots is too
thin.
>
> b) The springs that help to keep the airvalve from coming up too fast are
either missing or weak.
>
> c) One carburetor is running too lean, but the monitor is sensing richness
because the other one is too rich. (Measure the diameter of the needles right
where they exit the air valves. They should be identical.
>
> d) While the needles may be too rich at idle, they are not thin enough just
off idle. (Your monitor is showing you the lean condition)
>
> e) Be sure the ign. timing is advancing and following the engine speed.
>
> There could be other problems, but making this list longer won't "get it
through"!
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: John North
> Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 4:35 PM
> To: Triumph 6 Pack
> Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
>
> When I floor it at fairly low rpms, the engine coughs and splutters.
> Very embarrassing in the auto cross.   I have a K&N O2 sensor system
> installed, it normally shows quite rich (2 green bars), but when I
> floor it it goes to full lean until the engine recovers.   Timing is
> spot on, valves adjusted, gaps and points set, distributor rebuilt,
> new rotor, new wires.   Have swapped out the coil.   Carbs are
> balanced and set to mid range mix - two full turns from full rich,
> doesn't seem to make much difference where they are set, O2 sensor
> still shows well on the rich side and the engine stumbles horribly.
> Dashpot oil filled.
>
> This is a 76 with all the smog control equipment removed.   9.5-1
> compression, mild porting, Good GP2 cam
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> John North
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jun  1 08:48:51 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 07:48:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Poor flow in TR6 heads
In-Reply-To: <PQMo1e0020HYFJw05QMoHL@charter.net>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>
	<C98C9FEE53164557BF39FC01CC923E0C@RVAR>
	<PQMo1e0020HYFJw05QMoHL@charter.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AEAD2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Ron:

	I would not make too much of the TR6 head supposedly poor flow.

	The earlier high compression heads had less than optimum flow, but the later
low compression heads got all the goodies - deshrouded exhaust valve, improved
port design, better cooling, improved intake manifold, etc. Of course, this
was all done to make up for the reduced compression ratio to meet federal
emissions.
	Take a look at Vizard's book "Tuning Standard Triumphs over 1300cc". You will
see that the later heads had little that could be done to improve flow,
although the poor tolerances in the casting somewhat belied this. One could
clean up the poor castings and get some flow improvements. But note that the
TR6 heads came from the factory already gasket matched. While the flow
benefits of gasket matching are overstated, it does show that the factory boys
knew what they were doing. Also the combustion chambers have healthy squish,
something that was not appreciated by Detroit for another 20 years.
	Likewise for the Zeniths. They are emissions carbs, but the details are
there. The bypass valves for example, are implemented in such a way that flow
is not reduced through the carb. Compare the SU solution for deceleration
bypass, and the flow through the carb is dramatically reduced since SU elected
to mount the valve directly on the butterfly. Simple yes, but it sure kills
air flow through the carb. The SU solution is so bad most users simply elect
to remove it rather than deal with the performance penalty.
	If I was going to criticize the Zenith, it would be for the rubber
diaphragms. Unfortunately SU had a patent on the piston solution, so Zenith
was forced to find a method that did not infringe. The result is that we get
to live with the limited life of rubber, and its attendant vulnerability to
pinholes and tears.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
Subject: Re: [6pack] DUAL WEBER 45 MCHH TRIUMPH CONVERSION KIT

At 10:56 AM 5/28/2010, ron wrote:

>I'm not sure about the Weber carbs, however, if you are going to
>take care of the poor flow characteristic of the TR6 head, it seems
>you would want to put a better intake manifold on in order to give
>the gas/air mixture a straighter shot at the intake valve. The Good
>triple carb intake does that and the Strombergs or the SU's are a
>lot easier to tune.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jun  1 09:33:03 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 08:33:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTimcrg_WEquVosYVkfl3iQ_qfz6e-MMCpLuR57sS@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTimcrg_WEquVosYVkfl3iQ_qfz6e-MMCpLuR57sS@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AEB0C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	John:

	The carb air valve dampers use a one way check valve to get the valve to rise
slowly, but fall quickly. When installing the caps on the carbs, there should
be a very noticeable resistance. Conversely, when removing the caps, they
should pull our relatively easily.
	Any chance the check valves on your dampers are bad? Also, what viscosity oil
are you using in the dashpots? Are your carb diaphragms free of tears and
pinholes (stretch them slightly to check)? I would expect a torn diaphragm to
make the car go rich, but check them anyway. Deceleration bypass valves
correctly adjusted? Temperature compensators properly adjusted?
	If your emissions equipment is removed, what did you do with the vacuum
retard on the dizzy? Is it connected to the proper vacuum port on the carbs,
bypassed, plugged or ?? Did you cap off any unused vacuum ports on the carbs?

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John North
Sent: Monday, May 31, 2010 4:35 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?

When I floor it at fairly low RPMs, the engine coughs and splutters.

<snip>

Dashpot oil filled.

This is a 76 with all the smog control equipment removed.   9.5-1
compression, mild porting, Good GP2 cam

Any suggestions?

John North

From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl  Tue Jun  1 09:48:59 2010
From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (M.C.J. NEDERKOORN)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 17:48:59 +0200
Subject: [6pack] carb problems
Message-ID: <7400a67317f6e.4c05480b@home.nl>

John, Dick, List,

This situation was actually described in Nelson's famous ZS articles on the Buckeyetriumphs site. In some applications the ZS's will lean out under certain conditions, due to the damper rising too fast.

The dampersprings will not be part of the problem as they just set the damper height under a certain vacuum amount in the inlet manifold. It is the damper function that decides how fast the dampers rise if a (sudden) vacuum is created, by flooring for instance.

The damper function can be strengthed in 2 ways:
1. Thicker oil wil work up to a certain amount;
2. By limiting the opening in the damper where the oil flows through, inside the the small damper tube of the carb, same effect can be obtained.

To create the 2nd situation, one can place a small washer next to the little cylinder on the damper screw of the carb, or one can make a slightly longer cylinder. The damper will be forced to rise slower, keeping the mixture richer under sudden acceleration conditions.

I know of one car in my area where this solution has been implemented with good succes. I think it is in the 4th article (tuning the zs carburettor) on the Buckeyetriumphs site.

This should work in a similar way on SU carbs as well I would think?

Good luck,

Marc
(lurker in the NL)

> 
> On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 2:37 AM, Sally or Dick Taylor
> <tr6taylor at webtv.net> wrote:
> > John---Does the A/F monitor show full rich only at idle speeds? If so, does
> the monitor then recover into the rich area after rpm picks up? I need this
> info to give more help! Meanwhile, I'll just guess as to the problem and
> possible solutions.
> >
> > a) The air valves are flying open because the oil in the dashpots is too
> thin.
> >
> > b) The springs that help to keep the airvalve from coming up too fast are
> either missing or weak.
> >
> > c) One carburetor is running too lean, but the monitor is sensing richness
> because the other one is too rich. (Measure the diameter of the needles right
> where they exit the air valves. They should be identical.
> >
> > d) While the needles may be too rich at idle, they are not thin enough just
> off idle. (Your monitor is showing you the lean condition)
> >
> > e) Be sure the ign. timing is advancing and following the engine speed.
> >
> > There could be other problems, but making this list longer won't "get it
> through"!
> >
> > Dick

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jun  1 10:15:19 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 09:15:19 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Master Cylinder Woes
In-Reply-To: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>
References: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AEB77@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Bill:

	How are you bleeding them, and what kind of fluid are you using?

	I tried a vacuum bleeder with DOT5, and it was a miserable failure. The DOT5
it seems, is too prone to trap air for this method.

	On the other hand, using the traditional pump and hold method, the brakes
bled just fine, and I couldn't be happier. No trapped moisture to cause rust,
and it won't harm paint if I spring a leak. Great stuff.

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum
Sent: Sunday, May 30, 2010 7:58 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Master Cylinder Woes

My M/C began leaking onto the servo.

<snip>

Suggestions please.

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Tue Jun  1 10:20:53 2010
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 12:20:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Poor flow in TR6 heads
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AEAD2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <461076.38436.qm@web114612.mail.gq1.yahoo.com><C98C9FEE53164557BF39FC01CC923E0C@RVAR><PQMo1e0020HYFJw05QMoHL@charter.net>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B7AEAD2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <182733F726164CD5878B5609E61C153B@artvac412870f0>

SU never had an application on the TR6. The Over Run Valve on the Throttle 
Disc
is just something that migrated to the TR6 from people who didn't replace 
the Throttle Discs
when retrofitting to the superior SU Carbs. Easy fix there, replace the 
Throttle Disc for the
plain type everyone's using in most any size SU. The improved Flow in a 
Stromberg through
it's By Pass circuit is of little benefit when it's only active on the Over 
Run. SU's are still considered
a Performance Upgrade to replace Stromberg's. Strromberg's can be made to 
live with, but
they have more issues.
Cheers,
Wayne

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 10:48 AM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Poor flow in TR6 heads

> Ron:
>
> I would not make too much of the TR6 head supposedly poor flow.
>
> The earlier high compression heads had less than optimum flow, but the 
> later
> low compression heads got all the goodies - deshrouded exhaust valve, 
> improved
> port design, better cooling, improved intake manifold, etc. Of course, 
> this
> was all done to make up for the reduced compression ratio to meet federal
> emissions.
> Take a look at Vizard's book "Tuning Standard Triumphs over 1300cc". You 
> will
> see that the later heads had little that could be done to improve flow,
> although the poor tolerances in the casting somewhat belied this. One 
> could
> clean up the poor castings and get some flow improvements. But note that 
> the
> TR6 heads came from the factory already gasket matched. While the flow
> benefits of gasket matching are overstated, it does show that the factory 
> boys
> knew what they were doing. Also the combustion chambers have healthy 
> squish,
> something that was not appreciated by Detroit for another 20 years.
> Likewise for the Zeniths. They are emissions carbs, but the details are
> there. The bypass valves for example, are implemented in such a way that 
> flow
> is not reduced through the carb. Compare the SU solution for deceleration
> bypass, and the flow through the carb is dramatically reduced since SU 
> elected
> to mount the valve directly on the butterfly. Simple yes, but it sure 
> kills
> air flow through the carb. The SU solution is so bad most users simply 
> elect
> to remove it rather than deal with the performance penalty.
> If I was going to criticize the Zenith, it would be for the rubber
> diaphragms. Unfortunately SU had a patent on the piston solution, so 
> Zenith
> was forced to find a method that did not infringe. The result is that we 
> get
> to live with the limited life of rubber, and its attendant vulnerability 
> to
> pinholes and tears.
>
> Vance

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  1 11:19:38 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 17:19:38 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W802FA472548BD90C813508EEF0@phx.gbl>

 Confirmed in stock at Wal-mart, 97 cents.



>From back of package:

Born: 1969

Birthplace: Coventry, England

Designer: Triumph Motor Company

Speciality: Modified for road racing with a roll bar, removed bumpers and a
lowered windshield, this small British sports car was made to triumph over the
competition!



I was hoping for a white Group 44 design, as my 69 is white, but this deep red
#6 is pretty cool. The picture on the package looks better than the actual
car. (hehe) Pretty close to factory striping on the sides and notice the
little Hot-wheels logo where the Union-Jack should be. Nice!



Sloane :)

69-Six

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun  1 11:31:20 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 12:31:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W802FA472548BD90C813508EEF0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>
	<BLU120-W802FA472548BD90C813508EEF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>

my son got me the red and the green.  any other colors out there???

--------------------------------------------------
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 12:19 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel

> Confirmed in stock at Wal-mart, 97 cents.
>
>
>
>>From back of package:
>
> Born: 1969
>
> Birthplace: Coventry, England
>
> Designer: Triumph Motor Company
>
> Speciality: Modified for road racing with a roll bar, removed bumpers and 
> a
> lowered windshield, this small British sports car was made to triumph over 
> the
> competition!
>
>
>
> I was hoping for a white Group 44 design, as my 69 is white, but this deep 
> red
> #6 is pretty cool. The picture on the package looks better than the actual
> car. (hehe) Pretty close to factory striping on the sides and notice the
> little Hot-wheels logo where the Union-Jack should be. Nice!
>
>
>
> Sloane :)
>
> 69-Six

From ikorey at comcast.net  Tue Jun  1 11:44:03 2010
From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 12:44:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
In-Reply-To: <D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>
References: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>
	<BLU120-W802FA472548BD90C813508EEF0@phx.gbl>
	<D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <AANLkTiksSd7GyGgnzsQozIa2Z9d0l9bnqRCqBmFnf8CA@mail.gmail.com>

On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 12:31 PM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> my son got me the red and the green.  any other colors out there???
>

I have some in green and some in silver. I haven't seen the red ones yet.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (red)
Highland Park, IL

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jun  1 12:33:46 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 18:33:46 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
Message-ID: <COL123-DS6988291169093FD4632CEF4EF0@phx.gbl>

John---Going back to the first post on where you have the needle height set, at two turns down from full rich. This setting would not normally produce the 12:1 or 13:1 richness as shown by your monitor. I'm now also suspecting that your float levels may be too high. They should be set  close to .625.  If you find that this is in spec and the oil used in the dashpots (20w/50 is good) it could well be that the needle selection does not allow for enough fuel flow right off idle.  The B1AF theoretically should work, at least not stumble, but some temporary dropping of the LEDs will show up at engine speeds lower than 2500, at sudden, deep throttle openings. 

Dick 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jun  1 12:40:24 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 14:40:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
In-Reply-To: <D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>
References: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>
	<BLU120-W802FA472548BD90C813508EEF0@phx.gbl>
	<D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006011438070.15265@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 1 Jun 2010, oliver wrote:

> my son got me the red and the green.  any other colors out there???

The initial release had silver and green, silver had blue letters/stripe, 
green had white letters/stripe. Those models were released last year 
sometime.

The red color is apparently new. I've not seen one yet.

I'll have to update my "collection" as I have a strong affinity to carmine 
RED TR6's... although I'd prefer the number 40, to be quite frank.

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Jun  1 15:38:27 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 17:38:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] carb problems
In-Reply-To: <7400a67317f6e.4c05480b@home.nl>
References: <7400a67317f6e.4c05480b@home.nl>
Message-ID: <201006011738.28155.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

All,

Is it me or are these ZS carbs a real PITA?

I made a decision very early in the restoration of my 72 6 to convert to HS6 
carbs. 

The reason at the time was I understand SUs with a 3 and a 4 in the garage so 
why bother trying to figure out something new?

So ever since I joined this list and the 6pack forum, it seems all I see is 
problems related to ZS carbs and the emission stuff.

I am starting to think my decision to use SU HS6 carbs was a good move.

Bob

From gtwincams at gmail.com  Tue Jun  1 16:27:50 2010
From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian)
Date: Tue, 01 Jun 2010 15:27:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] carb problems
In-Reply-To: <201006011738.28155.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <7400a67317f6e.4c05480b@home.nl>
	<201006011738.28155.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4C058966.7020700@gmail.com>

Hello,
This is a long-running debate, and I'd like to add my 2 cents.

Having rebuilt about 7 pairs of ZS carbs for Triumphs and Lotuses, and 
having in the past worked on a number of SU carbs for my cars and for 
other people, I'd say each has their own strengths and weaknesses, and 
that the problems with ZS carbs are usually related to lack of 
maintenance, which sometimes results in wear that can't easily be 
compensated for.

Specifically, the air valve assembly and the body of the carb are 
matched during manufacture, but a bad diaphram, bad air cleaners, high 
mileage, or lack of maintenance can cause the tolerances to increase to 
where the performance suffers. A common problem is when an owner or 
mechanic rebuilds the carbs but swaps the air valves between the bodies. 
The bypass and temperature compensating valves are really common problem 
components when they go out of adjustment or the gaskets or diaphrams 
fail, but when properly maintained and adjusted, both perform their 
duties well. Many problems with performance and driveability with TRs 
are related to worn linkages, or other smog equipment still left in 
place (e.g. coolant temperature vacuum sender in radiator hose. A pretty 
good range of needles is available, but not as many as SU. The ZS are 
shorter, so can fit tight spaces better than most SUs.

I run ZS carbs on my Elan and my TR6, have rebuilt them (and spare 
sets), and maintain them, and performance is great. Having said that, I 
haven't tested any motors on a dyno to compare properly tuned SUs vs. ZSs.

Cheers,
Greg Tatarian
1971 Lotus Elan S4
1974 Triumph TR6
1974 Alfa Romeo GTV (on Webers)




On 6/1/2010 2:38 PM, Bob wrote:
> All,
>
> Is it me or are these ZS carbs a real PITA?
>
> I made a decision very early in the restoration of my 72 6 to convert to HS6
> carbs.
>
> The reason at the time was I understand SUs with a 3 and a 4 in the garage so
> why bother trying to figure out something new?
>
> So ever since I joined this list and the 6pack forum, it seems all I see is
> problems related to ZS carbs and the emission stuff.
>
> I am starting to think my decision to use SU HS6 carbs was a good move.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________

From rsh17 at msn.com  Tue Jun  1 17:04:57 2010
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 18:04:57 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
In-Reply-To: <D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>
References: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>,
	<BLU120-W802FA472548BD90C813508EEF0@phx.gbl>,
	<D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W43DA79EB590213497EF701AAEF0@phx.gbl>

I striped mine down and painted red, the only color I saw was a burgandyish
color w/ #6 on it. Nice  detail on the body and stripe is similar to the TR6
stripes.

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com



> From: sumton at sbcglobal.net
> To: im_sloane at hotmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 12:31:20 -0500
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
>
> my son got me the red and the green.  any other colors out there???
>
> --------------------------------------------------
> From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
> Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 12:19 PM
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel
>
> > Confirmed in stock at Wal-mart, 97 cents.
> >
> >
> >
> >>From back of package:
> >
> > Born: 1969
> >
> > Birthplace: Coventry, England
> >
> > Designer: Triumph Motor Company
> >
> > Speciality: Modified for road racing with a roll bar, removed bumpers and
> > a
> > lowered windshield, this small British sports car was made to triumph over
> > the
> > competition!
> >
> >
> >
> > I was hoping for a white Group 44 design, as my 69 is white, but this deep
> > red
> > #6 is pretty cool. The picture on the package looks better than the
actual
> > car. (hehe) Pretty close to factory striping on the sides and notice the
> > little Hot-wheels logo where the Union-Jack should be. Nice!
> >
> >
> >
> > Sloane :)
> >
> > 69-Six
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rsh17 at msn.com
>

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From trsix74 at comcast.net  Tue Jun  1 17:30:09 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 19:30:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Master Cylinder Woes
In-Reply-To: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>
References: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>
Message-ID: <20BDE09F14E048E28B86DB1BC110509A@Robert>

"Ding Dong" This rings a bell! I heard of a guy who owns a business which
sells British Car parts, that this happened to. The customer sent back two
MC's and claimed both were defective. The business owner went out of his way
to make things good, but the customer was irrational and claimed he knew how
to bleed brakes also. He royally read the business owner the riot act. Turns
out the line had a pin hole in it. The customer never did apologize.

From rsh17 at msn.com  Tue Jun  1 17:33:01 2010
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 18:33:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Spotted a new TR6 Hotwheel picts on photo bucket
In-Reply-To: <SNT127-W43DA79EB590213497EF701AAEF0@phx.gbl>
References: <SNT127-W55B505D6E6ECBE98237D0CAAEF0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<BLU120-W802FA472548BD90C813508EEF0@phx.gbl>, ,
	<D1A986C4AFD44D238DF55283EE7E321B@ranteer.local>,
	<SNT127-W43DA79EB590213497EF701AAEF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT127-W2359BB48D294CD0923F92EAAEF0@phx.gbl>

Here's a link to the painted hotwheel, OK I was bored and decided to spend the
time on it.


http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/?action=view&current=IMG_057
3.jpg

http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/?action=view&current=IMG_057
7.jpg

http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/?action=view&current=IMG_058
0.jpg

http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/?action=view&current=IMG_058
1.jpg


Richard Seaton

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From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Tue Jun  1 19:05:16 2010
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 18:05:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Master Cylinder Woes
References: <F0A75B6B796247F081A0B9DFFD5A676D@office>
	<20BDE09F14E048E28B86DB1BC110509A@Robert>
Message-ID: <2014C9D4DF444AD3A7C7A633122E0219@office>

Well, Robert, I'm certain that virtually every parts dealer on the planet 
has dealt with the 'customer from hell.'  My goal is not to make anyone's 
life miserable but to figure out how to get my car back on the road. I wish 
it were as simple as a pinhole--that would be an easy fix.  That is not the 
case here.  When I determine the nature of my M/C problem I'll let you know.

Bill Wellbaum
Las Vegas
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: "'Bill Wellbaum'" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 01, 2010 4:30 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] TR-6 Master Cylinder Woes


>
> "Ding Dong" This rings a bell! I heard of a guy who owns a business which
> sells British Car parts, that this happened to. The customer sent back two
> MC's and claimed both were defective. The business owner went out of his 
> way
> to make things good, but the customer was irrational and claimed he knew 
> how
> to bleed brakes also. He royally read the business owner the riot act. 
> Turns
> out the line had a pin hole in it. The customer never did apologize.

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Tue Jun  1 20:44:25 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 22:44:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] carb problems
In-Reply-To: <4C058966.7020700@gmail.com>
References: <7400a67317f6e.4c05480b@home.nl>,
	<201006011738.28155.yellowtr@adelphia.net>,
	<4C058966.7020700@gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W1553EBADD8D48B5104F35DBAD00@phx.gbl>

FWIW I have no dyno results comparing the ZS VS S.U. but when I swapped my
well tuned ZS for S.U.'s on a built motor my quarter mile times of upper 15
second range did not change.

Marty



> I run ZS carbs on my Elan and my TR6, have rebuilt them (and spare
> sets), and maintain them, and performance is great. Having said that, I
> haven't tested any motors on a dyno to compare properly tuned SUs vs. ZSs.
>
> Cheers,
> Greg Tatarian
> 1971 Lotus Elan S4
> 1974 Triumph TR6
> 1974 Alfa Romeo GTV (on Webers)


_________________________________________________________________
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From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue Jun  1 21:32:03 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 1 Jun 2010 23:32:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] carb problems
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W1553EBADD8D48B5104F35DBAD00@phx.gbl>
References: <7400a67317f6e.4c05480b@home.nl>,
	<201006011738.28155.yellowtr@adelphia.net>,
	<4C058966.7020700@gmail.com>,
	<BAY123-W1553EBADD8D48B5104F35DBAD00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9460C2@CMS01.winhosting.local>

And I found that adding a third Stromberg carb to my TR added 50% to the grin
factor when looking at the engine without significantly changing the
consumption. The shininess of the third K&N also added a belief in increased
low-rpm torque.

Seriously for a mo; I heard all sorts of terrible tales about ZS carbs and
cold starting, but never had a problem. I ran my TR6 through 4 Montreal
winters. Never an issue starting or running, even after a couple of days
sitting in a snowdrift. Lovely to hear it fire right up at -35 degrees.
Unfortunately the road salt got at it and the body fell off like Clouseau's
Silver Hornet... Still rebuilding from that 20 years later.

Mark
1972 TR6

________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
marty sukey [trmarty at hotmail.com]
Sent: June 1, 2010 10:44 PM
To: gtwincams at gmail.com; 6 Digest
Subject: Re: [6pack] carb problems

FWIW I have no dyno results comparing the ZS VS S.U. but when I swapped my
well tuned ZS for S.U.'s on a built motor my quarter mile times of upper 15
second range did not change.

Marty



> I run ZS carbs on my Elan and my TR6, have rebuilt them (and spare
> sets), and maintain them, and performance is great. Having said that, I
> haven't tested any motors on a dyno to compare properly tuned SUs vs. ZSs.
>
> Cheers,
> Greg Tatarian
> 1971 Lotus Elan S4
> 1974 Triumph TR6
> 1974 Alfa Romeo GTV (on Webers)

From Pimento73 at aol.com  Wed Jun  2 06:01:05 2010
From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:01:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] carb problems
Message-ID: <702c1.507dc665.3937a201@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/1/2010 5:43:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:

Is it me  or are these ZS carbs a real PITA?
 
 
 
 
 
It is you - and a lot people - but it isn't me or a lot of other  people.
Since 1977, I have owned 12 Triumphs with dual Strombergs - I've never  had 
a Z-S problem I couldn't fix - and once set right, they stay right for  
years. I have recent excellent dyno numbers and graphs for 3 of these  cars.
 
I believe it all boils down to which (SUs or Strombergs) a person started  
with and got the most comfortable with and anyone who claims one is better  
than, or a performance upgrade over the other is expressing their  
preference.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Jun  2 06:35:40 2010
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:35:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] carb problems
References: <702c1.507dc665.3937a201@aol.com>
Message-ID: <33DAD75A7877419DA1BB88ACC5BB5DE2@Alan>

I've rebuilt quite a few Strombergs over the years and am very comfortable 
with them.
I've rebuilt a couple of SU's and have a set on a car right now, but I 
perfer the Strombergs.  Even though with the strombergs, I have to change 
the rubber diaphram on a yearly basis. ( daily driving).
I am sure with time, I'd be comfortable with the SU's.
I haven't seen any performance difference.

Al Salvatore

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Pimento73 at aol.com>
To: <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <marc.nederkoorn at home.nl>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 8:01 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] carb problems


> In a message dated 6/1/2010 5:43:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
> yellowtr at adelphia.net writes:
>
> Is it me  or are these ZS carbs a real PITA?
>
>
>
>
>
> It is you - and a lot people - but it isn't me or a lot of other  people.
> Since 1977, I have owned 12 Triumphs with dual Strombergs - I've never 
> had
> a Z-S problem I couldn't fix - and once set right, they stay right for
> years. I have recent excellent dyno numbers and graphs for 3 of these 
> cars.
>
> I believe it all boils down to which (SUs or Strombergs) a person started
> with and got the most comfortable with and anyone who claims one is better
> than, or a performance upgrade over the other is expressing their
> preference.
>
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net

From ken at azkiwis.com  Wed Jun  2 08:10:48 2010
From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 07:10:48 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock
Message-ID: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>

If it's not one thing, it's a half dozen others.   Spent most of weekend
redoing fuel line and points.  Ran well, no more fuel drips.   Drove into town
yesterday in my old jag for my weekly babysitting.  On the way in, the power
booster failed; you can hear the air leak from 6 feet away.  Brkes work, but
real hard.
No problem, I'll take the '6 in until I replace the booster!

Hah!

Went out this morning, 0530, to head into town and found I can not get the key
into the ignition switch assembly.  Close looking seems to indicate a tumbler
has worn and fallen and jammed.   So, now I have no vehicle.

I want to remove the TR's ingition switch assembly to free up the steering
lock.  I'll then pry the electrical bit off the back and use a screw driver to
start etc until I get a new ass'y to put in.

So the Question.   How do I remove the ignition lock assembly?  what do I need
to take off to get to it?
Any one been there, done that, and can offer advice.

(and oh, the TR is in the driveway blocking the garage, so wife's car can't
get out)

Thanks

Ken
73 TR6

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Wed Jun  2 08:37:52 2010
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:37:52 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock
In-Reply-To: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
References: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
Message-ID: <003401cb0261$306faee0$914f0ca0$@edu>

More than likely, you will need a broken screw extractor kit.  The steering
lock had sheer bolts, so the heads are broken off.  You will have to get a
set of those "backwards" twist drill bit things made to remove broken
screws.  It's a pain in the arse, ask how I know.  I replaced the sheer
bolts with allen head cap screws.

Kevin
'72 BRG CC82183U



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ken Davis
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 8:11 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock

If it's not one thing, it's a half dozen others.   Spent most of weekend
redoing fuel line and points.  Ran well, no more fuel drips.   Drove into
town
yesterday in my old jag for my weekly babysitting.  On the way in, the power
booster failed; you can hear the air leak from 6 feet away.  Brkes work, but
real hard.
No problem, I'll take the '6 in until I replace the booster!

Hah!

Went out this morning, 0530, to head into town and found I can not get the
key
into the ignition switch assembly.  Close looking seems to indicate a
tumbler
has worn and fallen and jammed.   So, now I have no vehicle.

I want to remove the TR's ingition switch assembly to free up the steering
lock.  I'll then pry the electrical bit off the back and use a screw driver
to
start etc until I get a new ass'y to put in.

So the Question.   How do I remove the ignition lock assembly?  what do I
need
to take off to get to it?
Any one been there, done that, and can offer advice.

(and oh, the TR is in the driveway blocking the garage, so wife's car can't
get out)

Thanks

Ken
73 TR6
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kmcnelis at nmsu.edu

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Wed Jun  2 08:40:56 2010
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:40:56 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock
In-Reply-To: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
References: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
Message-ID: <003501cb0261$9cdbb9c0$d6932d40$@edu>

I think I just sent an answer to a question you didn't ask-  remove the trim
piece around the lock assembly, two nuts in back.  Hard to get to.  Then,
there is a TINY screw on the outboard side of the key mechanism that holds
it in.  And I do mean TINY.  Probably a 00 or 000 phillips head.

Kevin

  

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ken Davis
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 8:11 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock

If it's not one thing, it's a half dozen others.   Spent most of weekend
redoing fuel line and points.  Ran well, no more fuel drips.   Drove into
town
yesterday in my old jag for my weekly babysitting.  On the way in, the power
booster failed; you can hear the air leak from 6 feet away.  Brkes work, but
real hard.
No problem, I'll take the '6 in until I replace the booster!

Hah!

Went out this morning, 0530, to head into town and found I can not get the
key
into the ignition switch assembly.  Close looking seems to indicate a
tumbler
has worn and fallen and jammed.   So, now I have no vehicle.

I want to remove the TR's ingition switch assembly to free up the steering
lock.  I'll then pry the electrical bit off the back and use a screw driver
to
start etc until I get a new ass'y to put in.

So the Question.   How do I remove the ignition lock assembly?  what do I
need
to take off to get to it?
Any one been there, done that, and can offer advice.

(and oh, the TR is in the driveway blocking the garage, so wife's car can't
get out)

Thanks

Ken
73 TR6
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kmcnelis at nmsu.edu

From ken at azkiwis.com  Wed Jun  2 09:16:13 2010
From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 08:16:13 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock
References: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
	<003501cb0261$9cdbb9c0$d6932d40$@edu>
Message-ID: <70312EAD56424F349AFCBFFB2767D0D6@AcerNetbook>

Thanks Kevin,   when I get home from Babysitting tonight I'll pull speedo, 
Tach and have a gander underneath..  And as luck would have it, I have some 
small phillips, and an old punch I'll re -point to removethe bolts.

Sigh.

Ken


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: "'Ken Davis'" <ken at azkiwis.com>; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 07:40
Subject: RE: [6pack] Ignition lock


>I think I just sent an answer to a question you didn't ask-  remove the 
>trim
> piece around the lock assembly, two nuts in back.  Hard to get to.  Then,
> there is a TINY screw on the outboard side of the key mechanism that holds
> it in.  And I do mean TINY.  Probably a 00 or 000 phillips head.
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Ken Davis
> Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 8:11 AM
> To: 6pack
> Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock
>
> If it's not one thing, it's a half dozen others.   Spent most of weekend
> redoing fuel line and points.  Ran well, no more fuel drips.   Drove into
> town
> yesterday in my old jag for my weekly babysitting.  On the way in, the 
> power
> booster failed; you can hear the air leak from 6 feet away.  Brkes work, 
> but
> real hard.
> No problem, I'll take the '6 in until I replace the booster!
>
> Hah!
>
> Went out this morning, 0530, to head into town and found I can not get the
> key
> into the ignition switch assembly.  Close looking seems to indicate a
> tumbler
> has worn and fallen and jammed.   So, now I have no vehicle.
>
> I want to remove the TR's ingition switch assembly to free up the steering
> lock.  I'll then pry the electrical bit off the back and use a screw 
> driver
> to
> start etc until I get a new ass'y to put in.
>
> So the Question.   How do I remove the ignition lock assembly?  what do I
> need
> to take off to get to it?
> Any one been there, done that, and can offer advice.
>
> (and oh, the TR is in the driveway blocking the garage, so wife's car 
> can't
> get out)
>
> Thanks
>
> Ken
> 73 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kmcnelis at nmsu.edu

From jmcoh at comcast.net  Wed Jun  2 09:26:52 2010
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 11:26:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ignition lock
In-Reply-To: <003401cb0261$306faee0$914f0ca0$@edu>
References: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
	<003401cb0261$306faee0$914f0ca0$@edu>
Message-ID: <007501cb0268$07073bc0$1515b340$@net>

I used a dremel tool with a cutting disc to cut a slot in the remains of the
sheer bolts.  Then you should then be able to remove them with a small
slotted screw driver.  You should be able to access them thru the speedo &
tach holes.  Definitely replace with cap screws.

John Cohen
76 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kevin McNelis
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 10:38 AM
To: 'Ken Davis'; '6pack'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition lock

More than likely, you will need a broken screw extractor kit.  The steering
lock had sheer bolts, so the heads are broken off.  You will have to get a
set of those "backwards" twist drill bit things made to remove broken
screws.  It's a pain in the arse, ask how I know.  I replaced the sheer
bolts with allen head cap screws.

Kevin
'72 BRG CC82183U

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Jun  2 10:01:17 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 09:01:17 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Security bolts
In-Reply-To: <003401cb0261$306faee0$914f0ca0$@edu>
References: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
	<003401cb0261$306faee0$914f0ca0$@edu>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B83F1D6@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Kevin:

	Yeah, the security bolts are a pain. I had good luck using a Dremel to slot
the top of the bolts, and then backed them out with a stubby screwdriver. I
put the handle in a 6 point socket, and used the ratchet handle to get enough
leverage to pop them out.
	Did the same thing as you - used socket headed Allen screws as replacements.
They were metric threads on my 1974-1/2.
	Given the difficult access to the security bolts, it seemed redundant to me
that they were shear style bolts. No one is going to get to them easily in the
first place if they wish to steal the car. <sigh> our government protecting us
from ourselves, I guess.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kevin McNelis
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 7:38 AM
To: 'Ken Davis'; '6pack'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition lock

More than likely, you will need a broken screw extractor kit.  The steering
lock had sheer bolts, so the heads are broken off.  You will have to get a
set of those "backwards" twist drill bit things made to remove broken
screws.  It's a pain in the arse, ask how I know.  I replaced the sheer
bolts with Allen head cap screws.

Kevin
'72 BRG CC82183U

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Jun  2 10:08:16 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 09:08:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Born under a bad (triumph) sign
In-Reply-To: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
References: <443762721A6E47FD94469F1A4554DA94@AcerNetbook>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B83F1EE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	LOL.

	Ken, this is so much like the way my life works, we must be twin brothers
separated at birth.

	Talk about being born under a bad sign. I think I was an axe murderer in a
previous life to deserve this sort of thing.

	Anything you want to share with us to explain why *you* deserve this? =:-o

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ken Davis

If it's not one thing, it's a half dozen others.   Spent most of weekend
redoing fuel line and points.  Ran well, no more fuel drips.   Drove into
town
yesterday in my old jag for my weekly babysitting.  On the way in, the power
booster failed; you can hear the air leak from 6 feet away.

<snip>

No problem, I'll take the '6 in until I replace the booster!

Hah!

Went out this morning, 0530, to head into town and found I can not get the
key
into the ignition switch assembly.

<snip>

(and oh, the TR is in the driveway blocking the garage, so wife's car can't
get out)

Ken
73 TR6

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed Jun  2 13:34:12 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 12:34:12 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement
Message-ID: <959395.45379.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

If you plan to replace the ignition switch anyhow, now is the time to move it
to the plinth at the bottom center of the dash where the choke, heater, fan
and etc are.  This is where it it was on the TRs prior to 1970.  I did it
years ago and recently swapped my car with a fellow club member to try to
track down an idle problem and couldn't believe what a PITA the standard setup
is/was.  All you need to make the change is a new switch (which you will be
buying anyway) for a TR4A, make up 6 (I think) pigtails to lengthen the
ignition wires and some sweat.  The plinth has a hole in it that is covered by
the vinyl so it is easy to cut out the vinyl and insert the new switch. 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Wed Jun  2 16:43:37 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian@asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 17:43:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement
In-Reply-To: <959395.45379.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20100602224257.CA15E18763F@autox.team.net>

Amen! I moved the switch to the plinth several years ago after knocking my
knees out too many times. I believe the plinth is where it belongs! Much,
much better location. Making the pigtail is a cinch.

Brian J. Alwin
72 TR6 CC79085

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Wednesday, June 02, 2010 2:34 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement

If you plan to replace the ignition switch anyhow, now is the time to move
it to the plinth at the bottom center of the dash where the choke, heater,
fan and etc are.  This is where it it was on the TRs prior to 1970.  I did
it years ago and recently swapped my car with a fellow club member to try to
track down an idle problem and couldn't believe what a PITA the standard
setup is/was.  All you need to make the change is a new switch (which you
will be buying anyway) for a TR4A, make up 6 (I think) pigtails to lengthen
the ignition wires and some sweat.  The plinth has a hole in it that is
covered by the vinyl so it is easy to cut out the vinyl and insert the new
switch. 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/brian at asmoothmove.biz

From 70tr6 at comcast.net  Wed Jun  2 19:58:36 2010
From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 2 Jun 2010 21:58:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement
In-Reply-To: <959395.45379.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <959395.45379.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A17B6C7-FB34-426A-A915-30A707739E98@comcast.net>

Mike is wise.  My car is the same although done prior to my acquiring it.

I don't know why one would ever want it in the stock location.


Ashford Little
70tr6 at comcast.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jun  3 06:02:19 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 08:02:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement
In-Reply-To: <4A17B6C7-FB34-426A-A915-30A707739E98@comcast.net>
References: <959395.45379.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A17B6C7-FB34-426A-A915-30A707739E98@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <201006030802.20587.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday, June 02, 2010 09:58:36 pm Ashford Little wrote:
> Mike is wise.  My car is the same although done prior to my acquiring it.
> 
> I don't know why one would ever want it in the stock location.
> 
> 
Ok,

You have me convinced. Now where do I get a TR4A ignition switch with 2 keys? 
Is the 4A switch the same as a 4? If so I have one of those. All I would need 
is a pair of keys and I believe there is someone on this list who makes keys 
from the lock number. I have had keys made in the past and they worked great.

Bob

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Jun  3 07:39:01 2010
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 9:39:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement
In-Reply-To: <201006030802.20587.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <20100603133901.7HDMQ.2365.root@hrndva-web09-z02>

Looks like the parts can be found at TRF:

http://www.zeni.net/trf/webcatalog/specials6.28/7.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six  w/TBI 


---- Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote: 
On Wednesday, June 02, 2010 09:58:36 pm Ashford Little wrote:
> Mike is wise.  My car is the same although done prior to my acquiring it.
> 
> I don't know why one would ever want it in the stock location.
> 
> 
Ok,

You have me convinced. Now where do I get a TR4A ignition switch with 2 keys? 
Is the 4A switch the same as a 4? If so I have one of those. All I would need 
is a pair of keys and I believe there is someone on this list who makes keys 
from the lock number. I have had keys made in the past and they worked great.

Bob

From ken at azkiwis.com  Thu Jun  3 09:01:11 2010
From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 08:01:11 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement
References: <959395.45379.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <52138CC91F3346E89954DF785FAF944B@AcerNetbook>

Mike, so if I read this right, there should be a place on the 'knob' bar - 
in the middle - to put the new key ass'y.  Stupid Q of course, but is that 
still valid for a 73, and (2) I'd have to remove the plate, and there should 
be a mounting hole behine, then drill plastic to match hole?

Or are we talking about the black support /riser thing?  Mine has been 
'reworked' to allow a DIN style radio in it..

Ken - sometimes the obvious escapes me....

73 TR6



> If you plan to replace the ignition switch anyhow, now is the time to move 
> it
> to the plinth at the bottom center of the dash where the choke, heater, 
> fan
> and etc are.  This is where it it was on the TRs prior to 1970.  I did it
> years ago and recently swapped my car with a fellow club member to try to
> track down an idle problem and couldn't believe what a PITA the standard 
> setup
> is/was.  All you need to make the change is a new switch (which you will 
> be
> buying anyway) for a TR4A, make up 6 (I think) pigtails to lengthen the
> ignition wires and some sweat.  The plinth has a hole in it that is 
> covered by
> the vinyl so it is easy to cut out the vinyl and insert the new switch.
> Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  3 09:16:36 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 11:16:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Placement of union jack decals
Message-ID: <9997C4F3127B4DB9A347EFB6351ABFD4@Jerry2>

What't the placement of the decal on the rear wings?

Jerry
'74 TR6 Mallard Green

From jmcoh at comcast.net  Thu Jun  3 09:45:12 2010
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 11:45:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Placement of union jack decals
In-Reply-To: <9997C4F3127B4DB9A347EFB6351ABFD4@Jerry2>
References: <9997C4F3127B4DB9A347EFB6351ABFD4@Jerry2>
Message-ID: <007801cb0333$c12f9e90$438edbb0$@net>

1/2 inch from the edge of the tail light frame, centered

John Cohen
76 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jerry C Shaw
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 11:17 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Placement of union jack decals

What't the placement of the decal on the rear wings?

Jerry
'74 TR6 Mallard Green

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu Jun  3 12:24:36 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 18:24:36 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Placement of union jack decals
In-Reply-To: <007801cb0333$c12f9e90$438edbb0$@net>
References: <9997C4F3127B4DB9A347EFB6351ABFD4@Jerry2>,
	<007801cb0333$c12f9e90$438edbb0$@net>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W26EC65D032A86BBFF697268ED10@phx.gbl>

And, leaning the same angle as the side tail light. I've actually noticed them
put on backwards on a nice car at a show. Kinda would have thought that was
obvious.



Sloane :)

69-Six

> From: jmcoh at comcast.net
> To: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com
> Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 11:45:12 -0400
> CC: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Placement of union jack decals
>
> 1/2 inch from the edge of the tail light frame, centered
>
> John Cohen
> 76 TR6
>

_________________________________________________________________
The New Busy think 9 to 5 is a cute idea. Combine multiple calendars with
Hotmail.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multicalendar&ocid=PID283
26::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_5

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Jun  3 12:38:10 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 13:38:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] torque specs
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F443@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <020501c9315e$2b363730$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F443@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8B00BE353756454A839B3FE5C873679B@ranteer.local>

had to replace the ring gear (it got chewed up after it had moved on the 
flywheel!!!) and now I'm getting ready to put it all back together.

I looked in the bentley manual, and it says flywheel 50 to 75 - right?

I'm confused as to the clutch assembly - am I correct in that is 15 to 20?

thanks! 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jun  3 13:08:10 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 15:08:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] torque specs
In-Reply-To: <8B00BE353756454A839B3FE5C873679B@ranteer.local>
References: <020501c9315e$2b363730$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F443@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<8B00BE353756454A839B3FE5C873679B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006031505190.7488@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010, oliver wrote:

> had to replace the ring gear (it got chewed up after it had moved on the 
> flywheel!!!) and now I'm getting ready to put it all back together.
>
> I looked in the bentley manual, and it says flywheel 50 to 75 - right?

Actually, I believe that if you read the manual properly, the 50 is DRY 
and the 75 is lubed. That said, I always use 75 and RED (high 
strength) loctite. Haven't had one come loose (yet).

> I'm confused as to the clutch assembly - am I correct in that is 15 to 20?

The clutch uses pretty small bolts, I think they're either 5/16" or 3/8". 
In either case, the torque numbers are correct in the book for the size of 
fastener.

> thanks! _______________________________________________

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Jun  3 13:07:27 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 19:07:27 +0000
Subject: [6pack] torque specs
In-Reply-To: <8B00BE353756454A839B3FE5C873679B@ranteer.local>
References: <020501c9315e$2b363730$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F443@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<8B00BE353756454A839B3FE5C873679B@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F513C36D0E@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net>

My Bentley book says flywheel 75 ft lbs and to evenly tighten the six clutch
bolts and spring washers to 16-20 ft lbs although it lists 20 ft lbs for the
clutch attachment bolts in the summary chart.

Stan



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Thursday, June 03, 2010 2:38 PM
To: Sixpack
Subject: [6pack] torque specs

had to replace the ring gear (it got chewed up after it had moved on the
flywheel!!!) and now I'm getting ready to put it all back together.

I looked in the bentley manual, and it says flywheel 50 to 75 - right?

I'm confused as to the clutch assembly - am I correct in that is 15 to 20?

thanks!

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jun  3 13:45:15 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 19:45:15 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Ign. Switch Placement
Message-ID: <COL123-DS8C73011A650DCEE3BEECFF4D10@phx.gbl>

Looks like I may be in the minority here, but I sure wouldn't go to the
trouble of moving the under-the-steering-column switch. Could be because it's
been working just fine for the last 37 years. I can find it in the dark, plus
I am in the habit of cocking the front wheels when parked outside. This
affords some assurance that anyone who wanted to take the car via tow-truck
would have to deal  with the car seriously dragging down the road. (Rear
wheels locked via hand brake and transmission gears). Is this fool proof? No,
but should discourage the thought of theft.

To keep the switch tumblers working, I do give them a shot of WD-40 when doing
the doors and trunk lock.

Dick
1973

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  3 13:55:19 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 12:55:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ignition switch location swap
Message-ID: <223811.79086.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

You can get the TR4 or TR4A ignition switch (I think they are the same) from
most of the usual suppliers.  Check their on line catalogues (Moss, TRF, VB)
for TR 4s, seems like it was cheaper than the stock one.  The switch comes
with at least one and I think two keys.

Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jun  3 13:57:34 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 03 Jun 2010 19:57:34 GMT
Subject: [6pack] torque specs
Message-ID: <COL123-DS67CBCEF066702F3F8A685F4D10@phx.gbl>

Oliver---50 to 75 on the flywheel. I use 50 on all bolts the first time around, then 75 on the final torque setting. I use the Blue Loctite on the threads, so I don't have to strain my chitlins when they need to be removed.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: oliver
Sent: Thursday, June 3, 2010 11:38 AM
To: Sixpack
Subject: [6pack] torque specs

had to replace the ring gear (it got chewed up after it had moved on the 
flywheel!!!) and now I'm getting ready to put it all back together.

I looked in the bentley manual, and it says flywheel 50 to 75 - right?

I'm confused as to the clutch assembly - am I correct in that is 15 to 20?

thanks! 
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  3 15:44:07 2010
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 14:44:07 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ignition Switch Replacement
In-Reply-To: <201006030802.20587.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <959395.45379.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<4A17B6C7-FB34-426A-A915-30A707739E98@comcast.net>
	<201006030802.20587.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <724423.69467.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob

Add British Parts Northwest to that list for the switch.  Dale
________________________________
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To:
6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, June 3, 2010 8:02:19 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack]
Ignition Switch Replacement

On Wednesday, June 02, 2010 09:58:36 pm Ashford
Little wrote:
> Mike is wise.  My car is the same although done prior to my
acquiring it.
> 
> I don't know why one would ever want it in the stock
location.
> 
> 
Ok,

You have me convinced. Now where do I get a TR4A ignition
switch with 2 keys? 
Is the 4A switch the same as a 4? If so I have one of
those. All I would need 
is a pair of keys and I believe there is someone on
this list who makes keys 
from the lock number. I have had keys made in the
past and they worked great.

Bob
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums:
http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jun  3 16:02:00 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 18:02:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ign. Switch Placement
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS8C73011A650DCEE3BEECFF4D10@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS8C73011A650DCEE3BEECFF4D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006031800020.7488@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 3 Jun 2010, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Looks like I may be in the minority here, but I sure wouldn't go to the
> trouble of moving the under-the-steering-column switch. Could be because it's
> been working just fine for the last 37 years. I can find it in the dark, plus
> I am in the habit of cocking the front wheels when parked outside. This
> affords some assurance that anyone who wanted to take the car via tow-truck
> would have to deal  with the car seriously dragging down the road. (Rear
> wheels locked via hand brake and transmission gears). Is this fool proof? No,
> but should discourage the thought of theft.

You obviously don't live in Boston.


: -)

Cars with wheels at full lock, alarms blaring and other indicators are 
seen being dragged down the street quite often in my neck of the woods.

> To keep the switch tumblers working, I do give them a shot of WD-40 when doing
> the doors and trunk lock.

Good practice. Dry lube is also good (like graphite).

> Dick
> 1973

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From ken at azkiwis.com  Thu Jun  3 18:45:46 2010
From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 17:45:46 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ign Switch  Wiring
Message-ID: <CEACDAD641DC4460863320D695AF33FC@AcerPC>

A Family forum, so I won't repeat my words from when I as removing the
Ignition switch.  But it's out; much like making Sausages, don't ask.

But of course my luck is always negative, and a connector came off the
electric backing.  2 of them I think

1st - appears to be grounded to the switch, is a green wire with black tracer.
I found a lucar receptacle in the back wiring and this looks to go there.

2nd one is more problematic.  It's a solid brown, quite thick.  It has a
thinner solid brown going to - I think - position 2 or there abouts.  Now,
there are two spades available, one appears to be numbered 4, the other is 5.
Which one does it go on?  I'm thinking #4, as there's a faint marking on the
spade, as though it's scratched from removal, but then, that could just be
me...

Thanks all

Ken
73 TR6

Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ


>
Sonoran Desert Weather
http://weather.azkiwis.net

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Thu Jun  3 21:29:12 2010
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Thu, 3 Jun 2010 20:29:12 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Emailing: 100_0594.JPG, 100_0595.JPG, 100_0596.JPG
Message-ID: <FC0D82FBD3D54AF6808DED1D4F68D56D@office>

Here is a tech tip for anyone interested:


This is the device I used to pressurize the reservoir to assist in "gravity"
bleeding the TR-6 brakes.  It turns out that the pump and hold procedure
worked fine on the rear drum brakes but not so well on the front discs.  It
seems that when Pilar the Pumper relaxed the brake pedal the open bleeder
allowed air to be sucked back into the system.  I had unending trouble getting
all the bubbles out of the front lines until I wrapped the bleeders with
Teflon tape--almost eliminating my bubbles problem. So, here it what I
learned:

You can effectively bleed your brakes by simply opening the bleeder valve and
letting gravity pull the fluid through the open bleeder into a suitable
receptacle.  A simple one man operation that is effective if you give it
time.

You can also pressurize the reservoir with a device like that shown in order
to push fluid throught the system.  I cannot testify as to how much pressure a
reservoir will take before exploding but I'm certain someone will find out
soon.  Hope they're using DOT 5 Fluid when it blows.

And, "if pumping and holding" you should always clean the bleeders off and
then wrap with Teflon tape to eliminate air being sucked back into the system
on the up stroke.

Credits:

Jonas Payne for sourcing the new Master Cylinder through his new restoration
company--and for his wrenching help.
Jonas Payne for the idea on the Teflon tape tip.
Gene Holtzclaw, another TR-6 owner for the gravity bleed idea,
Bill W for the absolutely brilliant idea for the reservoir pressurizing idea.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas

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From jrmcarthur2009 at yahoo.com  Fri Jun  4 05:53:56 2010
From: jrmcarthur2009 at yahoo.com (James Mc Arthur)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 04:53:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Rear Decal/ Iggy switch
Message-ID: <493982.48155.qm@web113906.mail.gq1.yahoo.com>

Good Morning to all! I have been quietly reading the posts and taking notes of
things for my reference at a later point in time. You see, my situation has
changed and I no  longer have a nice garage in which to wrench; not to mention
the disposable funds with which to buy the parts that would cause one to
wrench. Anyway, that aside, I wasn't thinking anything about the location of
the decal on the side until it became a topic here. When I went past the car
sleeping in my much smaller garage last night, I happened to notice where the
badge sits on the rear panel. This morning I'm reading where it's SUPPOSED to
sit. Did the location change during the model run? My Union Jack sits 3 3/4"
off the lens bracket and 3" down measured off the break in the rear wing. I
have a 1974 Carmine TR6. I would like to know if the location changed? Point
two was the ignition switch. I think the present location is a PITA and would
think about moving it to the plinth
 position when the time comes! Considering the age of these vehicles and their
original parts, it might be wise to treat them gently. At any time, it would
be a good idea to ONLY have the ignition key in the switch and with NOT a
jumble of keys hanging off a key ring. This will make the iggy key tend to
pull down and up in the switch forcing the key against the tumblers and
perhaps inducing premature wear. It might sound like a very small load being
discussed, but over time......... Best Regards to all! Jim McArthur/ York Pa./
sleeping TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jun  4 08:07:46 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 07:07:46 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Pressurized Fluid reservoirs
In-Reply-To: <FC0D82FBD3D54AF6808DED1D4F68D56D@office>
References: <FC0D82FBD3D54AF6808DED1D4F68D56D@office>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B83FD6D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	LOL.

	Kids! Don't try this at home.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum


<snip>

You can also pressurize the reservoir with a device like that shown in order
to push fluid throught the system.  I cannot testify as to how much pressure
a
reservoir will take before exploding but I'm certain someone will find out
soon.  Hope they're using DOT 5 Fluid when it blows.

<snip>

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas

From ron at rvar.net  Fri Jun  4 10:16:46 2010
From: ron at rvar.net (ron)
Date: Fri, 4 Jun 2010 11:16:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Pressurized Fluid reservoirs
References: <FC0D82FBD3D54AF6808DED1D4F68D56D@office>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B83FD6D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <BEF14028AA2C4C25B542F19C2B14AAC7@RVAR>

The old standby pressure bleeding device was the "Gunson Eezi-bleed" kit. It 
used the spare tire as the pressure source so looks like around 20 to 25 
pounds should work. Assuming you keep your spare aired-up. However, probably 
any small amount of pressure would work, just enough to push the fliud 
through the system.

Ron

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: "Bill Wellbaum" <wcwellbaum at cox.net>; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 04, 2010 9:07 AM
Subject: [6pack] Pressurized Fluid reservoirs


> LOL.
>
> Kids! Don't try this at home.
>
> Vance
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum
>
>
> <snip>
>
> You can also pressurize the reservoir with a device like that shown in 
> order
> to push fluid throught the system.  I cannot testify as to how much 
> pressure
> a
> reservoir will take before exploding but I'm certain someone will find out
> soon.  Hope they're using DOT 5 Fluid when it blows.
>
> <snip>
>
> Bill Wellbaum
> British Auto Club of Las Vegas
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rgh at vvm.com

From rlambour at comcast.net  Sat Jun  5 06:30:43 2010
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard Lambour)
Date: Sat, 5 Jun 2010 08:30:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Front bumper brackets and radiatior shield 1970 TR-6
Message-ID: <1D9A8B0D20334AD3ADA89E1BBC9A3D44@LAMBOUR>

Thanks to everyone who helped me with my PDWA switch dilemma; I'm
embarrassed to say I was simply looking in the wrong place for the switch.

 

I have front bumper brackets I sourced a while back that appear to be from a
~1973 car.  I'm assuming they'll fit on my 1970 TR-6, but I've been looking
for a photo or drawing that shows how the brackets and radiator shield all
fit together.  Oddly I haven't located anything that shows the whole
assembly even in the TR-6 shop manual and I'm curious whether everything
mounts through the same bolt holes to the frame (I must!?).

 

Thanks again,

 

Rick 

1970 TR-6

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Sat Jun  5 20:47:30 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 05 Jun 2010 22:47:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Sam Halkias at HEARTLAND PARK in August - SCCA National
 Champion TR6
Message-ID: <8CCD339BE1898D7-184C-CB54@webmail-d048.sysops.aol.com>

Listers,

This weekend Sam Halkias told me of his plans to enter the Kastner Cup race in
August at Heartland Park (Topeka, KS)

The TR6 Champ Car will be on display during the race weekend, and will likely
find the track in Exhibition.

Sam also plans to bring a vintage prepared TR6 to run the Kastner Cup....

We would like to invite all Triumph folks to join the FOT in the paddock to
meet and greet Kas Kastner and Sam Halkias.

Special Car Corral areas are being set up so you can park with your friends.

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph

From KKSMC at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 06:55:48 2010
From: KKSMC at aol.com (KKSMC at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 6 Jun 2010 08:55:48 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Message for the Jeffster.....
Message-ID: <47f8.4d1ce95b.393cf4d4@aol.com>

PRACTICE
 
PRACTICE
 
PRACTICE!!!

From davgil at aol.com  Sun Jun  6 19:39:06 2010
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 06 Jun 2010 21:39:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Car cover
Message-ID: <8CCD3F95A338735-16AC-173A6@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>

When I purchased my TR6 years ago, the seller included a cover that was great
for my purposes.  It was extremely soft and pliable, almost like silk or
nylon, and was very easy on the paint.  Since I keep my 6 garaged, it was
perfect to protect from dust only.  This was not a cover that would be
suitable for exterior use.  Unfortunately, this cover was inadvertently
destroyed and I have been unable to locate a replacement.  Is anyone familiar
with this style of cover and fabric and would you possible have a source for a
replacement?
Thanks for your assistance.
David Gill
1976 TR6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jun  7 07:17:46 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 09:17:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Bob Goes for Another Sunday Drive
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006070915130.26905@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I took the TR6 out for a spin Sunday. Quite the day weather-wise with rain 
and stuff along with tornado watches, but it wound up being a great day 
for a drive!!

Check it out:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNYKLxHNeE0

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Mon Jun  7 09:42:50 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 10:42:50 -0500
Subject: [6pack] A question for carburetor gurus
In-Reply-To: <8CCD3F95A338735-16AC-173A6@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CCD3F95A338735-16AC-173A6@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <004501cb0658$16936c00$43ba4400$@biz>

Here's a question for any Zenith-Stromberg gurus out there. While diagnosing
an acceleration stumble problem, I noticed my rear carb has gasoline
dripping from around/above the piston area. It actually looks like it's
coming from the vapor return hose as the line is wet on the inside as well.
The front carb is dry. The vapor return hose attached to the front carb and
then end up at a charcoal canister. Is this normal behavior? FYI. I am
actually using a canister out of a 1990's GM car as the TR replacement was
way too expensive.

Thanks for the help,

Brian J. Alwin
72 TR6 CC79085

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jun  7 14:01:49 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 13:01:49 -0700
Subject: [6pack] A question for carburetor gurus
In-Reply-To: <004501cb0658$16936c00$43ba4400$@biz>
References: <8CCD3F95A338735-16AC-173A6@webmail-m064.sysops.aol.com>
	<004501cb0658$16936c00$43ba4400$@biz>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B8A0942@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Brian:

	In theory it should not happen, but I must admit the same thing happens to
me. It appears that the rear carb is very prone to heat soak, and the fuel
expands and pushes out of the jet.
	You should check to make sure that your vent valve is correctly adjusted, and
that your needle valve is not leaking. Other than that, I would say a heat
shield is your best bet. But perhaps others have had success with this
particular issue.
	I would not expect the carbon canister to affect the problem.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of brian at asmoothmove.biz
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 8:43 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] A question for carburetor gurus

Here's a question for any Zenith-Stromberg gurus out there. While diagnosing
an acceleration stumble problem, I noticed my rear carb has gasoline
dripping from around/above the piston area. It actually looks like it's
coming from the vapor return hose as the line is wet on the inside as well.
The front carb is dry. The vapor return hose attached to the front carb and
then end up at a charcoal canister. Is this normal behavior? FYI. I am
actually using a canister out of a 1990's GM car as the TR replacement was
way too expensive.

Thanks for the help,

Brian J. Alwin
72 TR6 CC79085

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jun  7 14:03:57 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 16:03:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Bob Goes for Another Sunday Drive
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006070915130.26905@isis.mit.edu>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006070915130.26905@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <3630344778434DA08BF8110EA005D0DD@BobPC>

Looked like a 2nd gear run the whole way? Where can I find of list of where 
auto-x is held in the northeast? It would be fun to go and watch sometime.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Robert M. Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 9:17 AM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <net at lists.mv.net>
Subject: [6pack] Bob Goes for Another Sunday Drive

> Hi,
>
> I took the TR6 out for a spin Sunday. Quite the day weather-wise with rain 
> and stuff along with tornado watches, but it wound up being a great day 
> for a drive!!
>
> Check it out:
>
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNYKLxHNeE0
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
> 2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
> Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Mon Jun  7 17:13:20 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 19:13:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Commission Plate Question
Message-ID: <20100607231213.97897187649@autox.team.net>

Could someone confirm the letter size for the 1974 commission plate.  It
looks to me like the date and the paint and trim codes are 1/8", while the
commission number itself is 1/4", but I think I've seen a few plates where
the date too was 1/4".

Thanks,
BobW
Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
1974 TR6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Jun  7 17:26:59 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 07 Jun 2010 23:26:59 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Gas Tanks
Message-ID: <COL123-DS136AFCEDFDEE461DC98B40F4D50@phx.gbl>

Anyone purchased one recently and know the gallon capacity of these tanks as
shown in the catalogues? I know the early TRs had a 12.9 gal. and the later
ones (like mine)  had an 11.4 gal.  The order desk people don't seem to know.
When the time comes, I'd like to know I'm getting the larger of the two
choices!  Thanks.

Dick
'73

From tr6 at atlasok.com  Mon Jun  7 17:39:01 2010
From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 18:39:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] A question for carburetor gurus
Message-ID: <01b001cb069a$9c24aa90$d46dffb0$@com>

If fuel is escaping above the bottom of the bowl I think I would be checking
the floats or the 'jet', I use the term loosely.  The floats could be
leaking and full of fuel or the jet could have some grit in it that prevents
it's closing.

 

John Phillips 
Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK 
Green Country Triumphs 
 <http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com> http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jun  7 18:19:08 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 20:19:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Gas Tanks
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS136AFCEDFDEE461DC98B40F4D50@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS136AFCEDFDEE461DC98B40F4D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B3E1C373EAAF4571988751C9E741241D@BobPC>

Joe Grant made up a 14.5 gallon aluminum tank for Bowtie. 
http://www.bowtie6.com/tr6_pics/tank/Gallery1/index.html and 
http://www.bowtie6.com/fuel_system.htm

And I know Dan Masters had a design for a larger tank too. I believe Dan 
will share that design if you ask him about it.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 7:26 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Gas Tanks

> Anyone purchased one recently and know the gallon capacity of these tanks 
> as
> shown in the catalogues? I know the early TRs had a 12.9 gal. and the 
> later
> ones (like mine)  had an 11.4 gal.  The order desk people don't seem to 
> know.
> When the time comes, I'd like to know I'm getting the larger of the two
> choices!  Thanks.
>
> Dick
> '73
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Mon Jun  7 20:21:20 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian@asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Mon, 7 Jun 2010 21:21:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] A question for carburetor gurus
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957257B8A0942@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <20100608022053.5887518763F@autox.team.net>

Thank you, Vance. I will check the vent valve that you mention. I actually
didn't know there was one. The needle and seat are OK - maybe the main jet
and needle are worn out.

Brian 

-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] 
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 3:02 PM
To: brian at asmoothmove.biz; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] A question for carburetor gurus

	Brian:

	In theory it should not happen, but I must admit the same thing
happens to me. It appears that the rear carb is very prone to heat soak, and
the fuel expands and pushes out of the jet.
	You should check to make sure that your vent valve is correctly
adjusted, and that your needle valve is not leaking. Other than that, I
would say a heat shield is your best bet. But perhaps others have had
success with this particular issue.
	I would not expect the carbon canister to affect the problem.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of brian at asmoothmove.biz
Sent: Monday, June 07, 2010 8:43 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] A question for carburetor gurus

Here's a question for any Zenith-Stromberg gurus out there. While diagnosing
an acceleration stumble problem, I noticed my rear carb has gasoline
dripping from around/above the piston area. It actually looks like it's
coming from the vapor return hose as the line is wet on the inside as well.
The front carb is dry. The vapor return hose attached to the front carb and
then end up at a charcoal canister. Is this normal behavior? FYI. I am
actually using a canister out of a 1990's GM car as the TR replacement was
way too expensive.

Thanks for the help,

Brian J. Alwin
72 TR6 CC79085

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jun  8 00:13:56 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 06:13:56 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Gas Tanks
Message-ID: <COL123-DS235DCC650DF1C629A8DF2F4D60@phx.gbl>

Bobby D.---Dan had told me some years back that he had a 20 gal. tank made up for his (5.0 Ford) TR6. Sweet, but it looks like some coveted trunk space had to be given up. Don't want to do that, with the custom luggage made to fit and all. Can you direct me to Joe Grant for more details?  Thanks!

Dick

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  8 04:14:42 2010
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Tue, 8 Jun 2010 03:14:42 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] show
Message-ID: <507588.10585.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

anyone going to the show in ho-ho-cus this sat at the hermitage

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Tue Jun  8 14:40:07 2010
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan)
Date: Tue, 08 Jun 2010 16:40:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A Touch of England show in HoHoKus, NJ
Message-ID: <000c01cb074a$c8031290$580937b0$@net>

'john doe' wrote:

>anyone going to the show in ho-ho-cus this sat at the hermitage

 

'John' (if that IS your real name)  : - ),

  If the weather is passable, I'll be there with some other 

folks from the Brits of the Hudson.  

Dennis Culligan, Highland NY (1976 TR6 CF57948U)

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Wed Jun  9 01:24:03 2010
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (lists)
Date: 9 Jun 2010 09:24:03 +0200
Subject: [6pack] =?utf-8?q?TR250/TR6_distributor?=
Message-ID: <MYFA_SERVER_II9WanR00004af3@www.erp-3.net>

Hi,

I'm looking for a Triumph TR250/TR6 ignition distributor.

If you have one or more of this distributor (condition not relevant) wasting shelf place and you don't need it any more, please contact me offline.

Eric

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Thu Jun 10 14:45:59 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 15:45:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <507588.10585.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <507588.10585.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <003e01cb08dd$ef044460$cd0ccd20$@biz>

Can anyone comment on the work that The Roadster Factory (CAR Components)
has done regarding carburetor re-builds? I have a pair of un-adjustable and
cantakerous dogs that I'd like to send back east for a re-build and upgrade.


Thanks,

Brian J. Alwin
1972 TR-6
CC79085

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Jun 10 16:02:10 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 18:02:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <003e01cb08dd$ef044460$cd0ccd20$@biz>
References: <507588.10585.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<003e01cb08dd$ef044460$cd0ccd20$@biz>
Message-ID: <201006101802.11534.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Thursday, June 10, 2010 04:45:59 pm brian at asmoothmove.biz wrote:
> Can anyone comment on the work that The Roadster Factory (CAR Components)
> has done regarding carburetor re-builds? I have a pair of un-adjustable and
> cantakerous dogs that I'd like to send back east for a re-build and
> upgrade.
> 
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Brian J. Alwin
> 1972 TR-6
> CC79085
> _______________________________________________

Brian,

Cant comment on TRF but why don't you give Jeff at Paltech.com a call. He does 
a great job on SUs and Strombergs.

I got a set of Hitachi SUs for my TR6 project and they looked like brand new. 
He even can refurbish your linkage and manifold if you choose.

Bob

From johntempe8 at q.com  Thu Jun 10 16:58:34 2010
From: johntempe8 at q.com (JOHN T REYNOLDS)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 22:58:34 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <201006101802.11534.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <507588.10585.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
	<003e01cb08dd$ef044460$cd0ccd20$@biz>,
	<201006101802.11534.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <COL122-W56B7FADCD743461549862496D80@phx.gbl>

I heartly second Bob's recommendation!!  Jeff did my son's carbs and they look
brand new and worked perfectly. Outstanding job!!!!



NFI



John

71 Tr6

> From: yellowtr at adelphia.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 18:02:10 -0400
> Subject: Re: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds
>
> On Thursday, June 10, 2010 04:45:59 pm brian at asmoothmove.biz wrote:
> > Can anyone comment on the work that The Roadster Factory (CAR Components)
> > has done regarding carburetor re-builds? I have a pair of un-adjustable
and
> > cantakerous dogs that I'd like to send back east for a re-build and
> > upgrade.
> >
> >
> > Thanks,
> >
> > Brian J. Alwin
> > 1972 TR-6
> > CC79085
> > _______________________________________________
>
> Brian,
>
> Cant comment on TRF but why don't you give Jeff at Paltech.com a call. He
does
> a great job on SUs and Strombergs.
>
> I got a set of Hitachi SUs for my TR6 project and they looked like brand
new.
> He even can refurbish your linkage and manifold if you choose.
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/johntempe8 at q.com

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Thu Jun 10 17:11:46 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 19:11:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Commission Plate Question
Message-ID: <20100610231030.9ED68187650@autox.team.net>

> Could someone confirm the lettering size for the 1974 commission plate.
> From what I've seen (mostly on e-Bay), it looks to me like the date and
> the paint and trim codes are 1/8", while the commission number itself is
> 1/4", but I think I've seen a few plates where the date too was 1/4".
> 
> Thanks,
> BobW
> Montgomeryville, Pa. (suburban Philadelphia)
> 1974 TR6

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jun 10 17:19:28 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 19:19:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds
In-Reply-To: <003e01cb08dd$ef044460$cd0ccd20$@biz>
References: <507588.10585.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<003e01cb08dd$ef044460$cd0ccd20$@biz>
Message-ID: <60017BDF49EE4AC8A2741826DA7AF4CD@BobPC>

Jeff Payla of Paltech (http://www.paltech1.com/) has quickly become the go 
to guy for carb rebuilding. If you want to see the beautiful job he does, 
both inside and out, check out my site and look at all the before and after 
pictures: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CarbRebuild2006.htm

Prety much all the 6-Pack Forum guys are now using Jeff to have their carbs 
rebuilt.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: <brian at asmoothmove.biz>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 4:45 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds

> Can anyone comment on the work that The Roadster Factory (CAR Components)
> has done regarding carburetor re-builds? I have a pair of un-adjustable 
> and
> cantakerous dogs that I'd like to send back east for a re-build and 
> upgrade.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian J. Alwin
> 1972 TR-6
> CC79085
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Thu Jun 10 21:13:59 2010
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Thu, 10 Jun 2010 20:13:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds
References: <507588.10585.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<003e01cb08dd$ef044460$cd0ccd20$@biz>
Message-ID: <4C2988A9E84345C0A7143B14BB00CCFD@office>

I just had TRF rebuild the Zeniths from a friend's 71 TR-6.  They do 
phenomenal work, the carbs look new, and the car hasn't run this well in 
many years.  They come back set up with equal datum settings and they are 
now adjustable.  This is the second set they've done and I wouldn't go 
anywhere else.

Bill Wellbaum
Brit Auto Club of Las Vegas
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <brian at asmoothmove.biz>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 10, 2010 1:45 PM
Subject: [6pack] TRF Carburetor Rebuilds


> Can anyone comment on the work that The Roadster Factory (CAR Components)
> has done regarding carburetor re-builds? I have a pair of un-adjustable 
> and
> cantakerous dogs that I'd like to send back east for a re-build and 
> upgrade.
>
>
> Thanks,
>
> Brian J. Alwin
> 1972 TR-6
> CC79085
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wcwellbaum at cox.net

From aktifspeed at gmail.com  Sat Jun 12 11:29:40 2010
From: aktifspeed at gmail.com (Erik Sulcs)
Date: Sat, 12 Jun 2010 13:29:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 in new movie...
Message-ID: <AANLkTikXtkbZaM70E7lN5w9Awx_lQXxTCF8v5ZIN_lPC@mail.gmail.com>

So my ladyfriend wanted to go see the movie, "Get Him To The Greek".  Not
exactly my type of flick, but if I want her to come w/ me to the next car
show... well, you get the message.  About half way through, the camera lands
on what is supposedly Lars Ulrich's house in LA, (drummer for Metallica) and
there out front is a sweet late model red TR6 w/ wire wheels and a rollbar.
It's not even a quick shot, the camera lingers on it for a while as if it
could be a Producer's or Director's car... pretty cool!

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Jun 13 05:47:50 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 07:47:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] free spinning fan update
Message-ID: <FF8535D73DF041F8ACF54AE9E3C69EB8@AlexPC>

If it happens to you, don't drive it! Well after the fix (but still loose
pins), they backed out again. This time so did the crank bolt so some degree.
Happened about 10 miles from home at about 65 miles per hour. :o(

End result, red fan into the radiator, crank bolt bent about 45 degrees after
hitting the cross tube, (extension still on it) and still in the crank. Can
you imagine noise it made rotating against the cross tube. At least I am
hoping that that's the noise.

Damage:
  1.. bent crank bolt......$30
  2.. new pins (2) $3
  3.. fan fins need combing (no charge...and no leaks)
  4.. red fan needs cleaning, minor scuffing on edges.
  5.. A/C belt ok.
Plan and opinions:
  1.. Remove bent bolt with hope of no damage to end of crank and seals.
  2.. Install and "tack weld" pins to extension. (not comfortable with JB
weld) Not sure on balance issues with tack welds.
  3.. Apply heavy duty thread lock to crank bolt.
  4.. Comb out fan.
Alex Manzo
72 TR6 (looked good on the trailer home though) :o)

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Jun 13 12:40:39 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:40:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] free spinning fan update
In-Reply-To: <FF8535D73DF041F8ACF54AE9E3C69EB8@AlexPC>
References: <FF8535D73DF041F8ACF54AE9E3C69EB8@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <8CCCB6F2E54B43ACB31A30B40B7A5859@Robert>

Something does not sound right. Did you tighten that crank bolt to spec? It
should not have backed out. Shame this happened. Those replacement pins must
have been the wrong size. Did you have a tough time pressing them in?
Hopefully you pressed them in dry!

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun Jun 13 14:16:52 2010
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 13:16:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Webber Carb Question
Message-ID: <917991.85705.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

One of the guys in the club has come up with a set up for two single barrel 45
MM (??)carbs that he found on the net somewhere.  It included all of the
linkage and stuff necessary to mount it.  It looks good (all chrome) and he
says it runs a lot better than his old ZS carbs.  He said he only paid $300+
for it.  I didn't get enough details I know but thought someone on the list
might know something about this.  

Mike Lunsford

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sun Jun 13 14:27:17 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 16:27:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] free spinning fan update
In-Reply-To: <8CCCB6F2E54B43ACB31A30B40B7A5859@Robert>
References: <FF8535D73DF041F8ACF54AE9E3C69EB8@AlexPC>
	<8CCCB6F2E54B43ACB31A30B40B7A5859@Robert>
Message-ID: <09B15070023F4E029EC1867915C32235@AlexPC>

The pins have been in for at least 4 years and 15,000 miles. No, they were 
not a snug fit and they were the originals. Did not have to press them in. I 
should have known better. Live and learn. Could have been much worst.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: "'Alex'" <ambritts at bellsouth.net>; "'*Six Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 2:40 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] free spinning fan update


>
> Something does not sound right. Did you tighten that crank bolt to spec? 
> It
> should not have backed out. Shame this happened. Those replacement pins 
> must
> have been the wrong size. Did you have a tough time pressing them in?
> Hopefully you pressed them in dry!

From gkester at ucsd.edu  Sun Jun 13 15:40:17 2010
From: gkester at ucsd.edu (Grant Kester)
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 14:40:17 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Tires and Wire Wheels
Message-ID: <B45D008A-0B6D-4ADE-A77E-A1706E41611E@ucsd.edu>

Dear All,

It's about time to get a new set of tires on my '69 TR6. I've got Dayton wire
wheels. Has anyone had any luck getting new tires put on wire wheels at any of
the mainstream tire chains, or is this just too risky?

Best,
Grant Kester

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jun 14 08:05:33 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 07:05:33 -0700
Subject: [6pack] free spinning fan update
In-Reply-To: <FF8535D73DF041F8ACF54AE9E3C69EB8@AlexPC>
References: <FF8535D73DF041F8ACF54AE9E3C69EB8@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA2807CF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Alex:

	Isn't that the real problem? No matter how much they pi$$ you off, they look
great even parked on the side of the road with the hood up. I can therefore
not bring myself to part with it. <sigh>

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alex

72 TR6 (looked good on the trailer home though) :o)

Alex Manzo

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jun 14 10:23:51 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 09:23:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Webber Carb Question
In-Reply-To: <917991.85705.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <917991.85705.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA2808CE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Available on eBay for $299. Item number: 130391824503

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford

One of the guys in the club has come up with a set up for two single barrel
45
MM (??)carbs that he found on the net somewhere.  It included all of the
linkage and stuff necessary to mount it.  It looks good (all chrome) and he
says it runs a lot better than his old ZS carbs.  He said he only paid $300+
for it.  I didn't get enough details I know but thought someone on the list
might know something about this.

Mike Lunsford

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Jun 14 11:12:49 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 14 Jun 2010 17:12:49 GMT
Subject: [6pack] free spinning fan update
Message-ID: <COL123-DS2440B17309B9FCB0EF73ABF4DC0@phx.gbl>

Alex---The large bolt needs to be torqued to specs during installation. The engine will try to rotate when doing this, so you'll need to keep this from happening. Either by using a flywheel lock (Pep Boys?) or use a pipe wrench on the fan extension, while tightening the large bolt.  Clean the crank threads with laquer thinner and an old toothbrush, blow out, and use the Blue loctite on the bolt.

The two dowel pins should feel tight when tapping them in place. Stake the pins with a center punch, if necessary, to make them fit tighter.



Dick 


-----Original Message-----
From: Alex
Sent: Sunday, June 13, 2010 4:47 AM
To: *Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] free spinning fan update

If it happens to you, don't drive it! Well after the fix (but still loose
pins), they backed out again. This time so did the crank bolt so some degree.
Happened about 10 miles from home at about 65 miles per hour. :o(

End result, red fan into the radiator, crank bolt bent about 45 degrees after
hitting the cross tube, (extension still on it) and still in the crank. Can
you imagine noise it made rotating against the cross tube. At least I am
hoping that that's the noise.

Damage:
  1.. bent crank bolt......$30
  2.. new pins (2) $3
  3.. fan fins need combing (no charge...and no leaks)
  4.. red fan needs cleaning, minor scuffing on edges.
  5.. A/C belt ok.
Plan and opinions:
  1.. Remove bent bolt with hope of no damage to end of crank and seals.
  2.. Install and "tack weld" pins to extension. (not comfortable with JB
weld) Not sure on balance issues with tack welds.
  3.. Apply heavy duty thread lock to crank bolt.
  4.. Comb out fan.
Alex Manzo
72 TR6 (looked good on the trailer home though) :o)
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com  Mon Jun 14 22:16:26 2010
From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com (Dave Waldorf)
Date: Tue, 15 Jun 2010 00:16:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 2010 TRials Hotel Special Rate Has 2 Weeks Left!
Message-ID: <4D7EAC9B26FC4098B3E1357E2BCDB7EA@DavePC>

It's now 3 months out, and as of last week we were down to the last 20 rooms
left in the host hotel. At this rate we are likely to sell out all 75 of the
rooms we reserved.

Again, if you're on the fence about going please bear in mind that Oxford is
a college town and there is a football game in town that weekend. Waiting
until the last minute to get your room is not a good idea,

Also there are now just 2 weeks left to get the reduced rate for the rooms
we reserved.

See ya' there! Smile



--Dave Waldorf, 2010 TRials Chm.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From dc_bruin at hotmail.com  Sat Jun 19 09:32:12 2010
From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 08:32:12 -0700
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <BLU145-W29B676A635AD376689B91EF5C10@phx.gbl>

http://n1fdrq2v67q.xufcalbyp.net/?camp=ms1

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox.
http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL
:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1

From joe.simcoe at gmail.com  Sat Jun 19 16:02:47 2010
From: joe.simcoe at gmail.com (Joe Simcoe)
Date: Sat, 19 Jun 2010 17:02:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR-250 for sale
Message-ID: <AANLkTimGkSg0-FKiBRVhdGk8S7Kd5-Lfwdu8VHKgvfM2@mail.gmail.com>

This is a modern day "Barn Find" . . . .I have had a TR250 in storage for
the past 15 years. Along with a 73 TR6 they are both off frame with all
parts boxed and stored.  The 250 had a restoration begun, it is a very solid
rust free car, and would be a very good candidate for restoration.  Also in
storage are most of the parts (excluding body and frame) of another 76 TR6.
 So, three cars . . . boxed, crated and stored for over 15 years now waiting
for the right person(s) to restore it (them) . . .

All in all, there are 3 engines, 3 transmissions, 3 diffs, 4 gas tanks, 3
sets of seats, (the 250 seats were restored prior to storage) MANY MANY new
parts waiting on the restoration.

I estimate that I have approx $20,000 in parts in the garage not counting
the two cars.  I know this is the same sad story you always here - "started
a restoration and didn't finish" but it is a GREAT opportunity to get into a
very nice TR250 with a little (ok maybe a lot) of work.  But the parts and
pieces are all here.

I am fixing to move, and now realize that I just won't ever get to this
project so it has to go.  I am asking $8,500 for everything.  I have
pictures to send if anyone is interested.

The cars are located in Baton Rouge LA . . . you can contact me ( Joe Simcoe
) at joe.simcoe at gmail.com

If you aren't interested tell your friends and the other members of your
clubs, I would really like to see this all go to someone who is going to
appreciate it and enjoy it

Joe Simcoe

From joe.simcoe at gmail.com  Sun Jun 20 11:16:34 2010
From: joe.simcoe at gmail.com (Joe Simcoe)
Date: Sun, 20 Jun 2010 12:16:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR-250 for sale
Message-ID: <AANLkTik76g_KB0zxB3WEv6nORyl3AMjNmjmAtHH1jSKH@mail.gmail.com>

This is a modern day "Barn Find" . . . .I have had a TR250 in storage for
the past 15 years. Along with a 73 TR6 they are both off frame with all
parts boxed and stored.  The 250 had a restoration begun, it is a very solid
rust free car, and would be a very good candidate for restoration.  Also in
storage are most of the parts (excluding body and frame) of another 76 TR6.
 So, three cars . . . boxed, crated and stored for over 15 years now waiting
for the right person(s) to restore it (them) . . .

All in all, there are 3 engines, 3 transmissions, 3 diffs, 4 gas tanks, 3
sets of seats, (the 250 seats were restored prior to storage) MANY MANY new
parts waiting on the restoration.

I estimate that I have approx $20,000 in parts in the garage not counting
the two cars.  I know this is the same sad story you always here - "started
a restoration and didn't finish" but it is a GREAT opportunity to get into a
very nice TR250 with a little (ok maybe a lot) of work.  But the parts and
pieces are all here.

I am fixing to move, and now realize that I just won't ever get to this
project so it has to go.  I am asking $8,500 for everything.  I have
pictures

From Btp44 at aol.com  Mon Jun 21 16:13:55 2010
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 18:13:55 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Request by Dick Taylor concerning AOL
Message-ID: <6ed6b.42bf9a1.39513e23@aol.com>

Dick-I received your message, but when I replied, it came back.
Berry

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Mon Jun 21 19:36:35 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 21:36:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS6988291169093FD4632CEF4EF0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS6988291169093FD4632CEF4EF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <AANLkTimOExJ4RAzS7uEqSbUJ6Naata-vb9ezFDvJCq4v@mail.gmail.com>

I believe I have this fixed using the Jaguar needles B1E (thanks Joe
Curto) and moving to 50 weight oil in the dashpot.  Needles set at two
full turns from full rich.   O2 sensors still showing rich (2 green
bars on the K&N gauge) but no hiccups and misses anymore.   Ready for
the car games!!

(Now on to one more carb problem in another thread)

John North
1976 TR6

On Tue, Jun 1, 2010 at 2:33 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor
<tr6taylor at webtv.net> wrote:
> John---Going back to the first post on where you have the needle height set,
at two turns down from full rich. This setting would not normally produce the
12:1 or 13:1 richness as shown by your monitor. I'm now also suspecting that
your float levels may be too high. They should be set  close to .625.  If you
find that this is in spec and the oil used in the dashpots (20w/50 is good) it
could well be that the needle selection does not allow for enough fuel flow
right off idle.  The B1AF theoretically should work, at least not stumble, but
some temporary dropping of the LEDs will show up at engine speeds lower than
2500, at sudden, deep throttle openings.
>
> Dick

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Mon Jun 21 19:46:55 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 21:46:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
Message-ID: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>

When I coast to a traffic light...

If I disengage the clutch when the rpms are over 1500, then they do
not drop, but increase to around 2000 and stay there.   Blipping the
throttle leaves it at 2000 rpm

If I disengage the clutch when the rpms are below 1200 then the idle
drops to the 750 range and everything is normal.

If I am at idle and I throttle up to 1500, and release the throttle,
then the idle continues to increase up to 2000.

I have disengaged the linkage and operated each carb separately from
idle, but either carb creates the same increase up to 2000.

I switched the pistons thinking when I rebuilt them I somehow switched
them and they are hanging up, but no effect.

The fast idle appears to be OK, not touching the cam.   When the
engine is running at 2000, I cannot manually move the linkage to get
the idle back to normal, it appears to be at rest.   Once at 2000 rpm,
I can manually pull down the piston on either carb and the idle
settles down to 750.

Looked for vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts and gaskets, can't
find any...

This does not prevent me from driving, but it means coming off gthe
gas does not drop the engine to idle - it sticks at 2000 so I am not
slowing as fast as i should and need to brake more.   Plus it's
embarrassing to coast up to a light at 2000 rpms

Any suggestions appreciated.

John North
1976 TR6

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Mon Jun 21 21:01:13 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 21 Jun 2010 23:01:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <8CCDFCE4F29023A-1334-5832@webmail-m055.sysops.aol.com>

Years ago, I had this problem with my TR3a.

Short version was that the butterflies or one of them was not properly
centered, so it was not seating properly.

I centered them and the problem went away.

Your issue seems different but I thought I mention it as it might be useful to
someone.

Joe A






-----Original Message-----
From: John North <johncnorth at gmail.com>
To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Mon, Jun 21, 2010 8:46 pm
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm


When I coast to a traffic light...
If I disengage the clutch when the rpms are over 1500, then they do
ot drop, but increase to around 2000 and stay there.   Blipping the
hrottle leaves it at 2000 rpm
If I disengage the clutch when the rpms are below 1200 then the idle
rops to the 750 range and everything is normal.
If I am at idle and I throttle up to 1500, and release the throttle,
hen the idle continues to increase up to 2000.
I have disengaged the linkage and operated each carb separately from
dle, but either carb creates the same increase up to 2000.
I switched the pistons thinking when I rebuilt them I somehow switched
hem and they are hanging up, but no effect.
The fast idle appears to be OK, not touching the cam.   When the
ngine is running at 2000, I cannot manually move the linkage to get
he idle back to normal, it appears to be at rest.   Once at 2000 rpm,
 can manually pull down the piston on either carb and the idle
ettles down to 750.
Looked for vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts and gaskets, can't
ind any...
This does not prevent me from driving, but it means coming off gthe
as does not drop the engine to idle - it sticks at 2000 so I am not
lowing as fast as i should and need to brake more.   Plus it's
mbarrassing to coast up to a light at 2000 rpms
Any suggestions appreciated.
John North
976 TR6
______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
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From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Mon Jun 21 23:01:41 2010
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 00:01:41 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
Message-ID: <410-2201062225141422@earthlink.net>

To all,

Does anyone know if the 1976 TR6 had those spring loaded poppet valves on
the carbueretor throttle plates? My TR8 has them and would give the exact
same symptoms when the springs went weak.


> Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
>
> When I coast to a traffic light...
>
> If I disengage the clutch when the rpms are over 1500, then they do
> not drop, but increase to around 2000 and stay there.   Blipping the
> throttle leaves it at 2000 rpm
>

>
> I have disengaged the linkage and operated each carb separately from
> idle, but either carb creates the same increase up to 2000.
>

>
> Any suggestions appreciated.
>
> John North
> 1976 TR6

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jun 22 06:25:37 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 08:25:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Ryan Newman has a TR6
In-Reply-To: <B633B12FFBDB4FAA9393FD0AE4B89443@joepentiumnew>
References: <B633B12FFBDB4FAA9393FD0AE4B89443@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <2B274BE730F841208CB3D26E17C99E3D@BobPC>

I like his color choice! According to this interview 
(http://tinyurl.com/24nfwhn) it's a '74 that  was his grandfathers car who 
then gave it to Newman who's had it eve since.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
Sent: Tuesday, June 22, 2010 12:44 AM
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Subject: [TR] Ryan Newman has a TR6

> I was watching am episode of "American Pickers and the guys were looking 
> at
> his car collection.  In the background was a nice yellow TR6.
>
> Joe

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Tue Jun 22 07:23:24 2010
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 09:23:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94612B@CMS01.winhosting.local>

Hi John:

Have you checked that the spring weights in the distributor are not rusty,
stuck with gunk or just weak. It sounds like the timing is staying too
advanced. When you force the engine down to low speed, the weights come in and
the timing retards as per normal, but without that external slowdown, the
setup is just floating.

Mark Hooper
1972 TR6

________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John North [johncnorth at gmail.com]
Sent: June 21, 2010 9:46 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm

When I coast to a traffic light...

If I disengage the clutch when the rpms are over 1500, then they do
not drop, but increase to around 2000 and stay there.   Blipping the
throttle leaves it at 2000 rpm

If I disengage the clutch when the rpms are below 1200 then the idle
drops to the 750 range and everything is normal.

If I am at idle and I throttle up to 1500, and release the throttle,
then the idle continues to increase up to 2000.

I have disengaged the linkage and operated each carb separately from
idle, but either carb creates the same increase up to 2000.

I switched the pistons thinking when I rebuilt them I somehow switched
them and they are hanging up, but no effect.

The fast idle appears to be OK, not touching the cam.   When the
engine is running at 2000, I cannot manually move the linkage to get
the idle back to normal, it appears to be at rest.   Once at 2000 rpm,
I can manually pull down the piston on either carb and the idle
settles down to 750.

Looked for vacuum leaks around the throttle shafts and gaskets, can't
find any...

This does not prevent me from driving, but it means coming off gthe
gas does not drop the engine to idle - it sticks at 2000 so I am not
slowing as fast as i should and need to brake more.   Plus it's
embarrassing to coast up to a light at 2000 rpms

Any suggestions appreciated.

John North
1976 TR6

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Tue Jun 22 11:38:52 2010
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 13:38:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mid-Ohio vintage race
Message-ID: <4C20F52C.8010109@bright.net>

Hello lists.  We will be at Mid-Ohio all week end with our parts and 
apparel trailer. Main location in the paddock with a second booth in the 
infield for Saturday's Brit car show. If you need me to bring anything 
to the track,please let me know.Stop by and say hello.Thanks, Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jun 22 12:22:10 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 11:22:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
In-Reply-To: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	John:

	It is your deceleration bypass valves. Their function is to bypass the
butterfly valve during closed throttle deceleration. They improve mileage and
reduce emissions. They are too loose, and are opening under normal idle
vacuum, thus admitting more air and causing a high idle speed.
	To adjust them, see the Bentley manual for detailed instructions. Simply
stated, you use the adjustment screw on the radiator side of each carb. Start
and fully warm the engine, then let it idle normally. If it will not idle, you
close BOTH bypass valve by turning the adjusters counter clockwise to seat the
valves. Be gentle, no need to tighten them down, just turn until resistance is
felt.
	Now, if the car is still not idling, you must correct the idle speed before
proceeding. One carb at a time, turn the adjuster clockwise until the idle
speed rises and remains steady. Then turn the adjuster counter clockwise ONE
FULL TURN past the point where the idle returns to normal. Repeat for the
second carb.

	This will correct your problem. Had this exact problem on my TR7 with the
exact symptoms. If I waited long enough, the idle would eventually return to
normal.

	Cheers,

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John North
Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 6:47 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm

When I coast to a traffic light...

If I disengage the clutch when the RPMs are over 1500, then they do
not drop, but increase to around 2000 and stay there.   Blipping the
throttle leaves it at 2000 rpm

<snip>

Any suggestions appreciated.

John North
1976 TR6

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Tue Jun 22 12:31:04 2010
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 14:31:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Mid-Ohio vintage race
In-Reply-To: <4C20F52C.8010109@bright.net>
References: <4C20F52C.8010109@bright.net>
Message-ID: <8CCE0503520CF78-D48-B42@webmail-m031.sysops.aol.com>

Ted,

Are you coming to Heartland Park in August?  We will have no less than 25
Triumphs running the Kastner Cup and an a very strong club presence in
designated corrals.

Vendor spots are only $100 for each for 10 X 20 spaces.

Thanks,

Joe Alexander








-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Friends of Triumph <fot at autox.team.net>;
spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com; TR8
CCCA Listing <tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu>
Sent: Tue, Jun 22, 2010 12:38 pm
Subject: [Fot] Mid-Ohio vintage race


Hello lists. We will be at Mid-Ohio all week end with our parts and apparel
trailer. Main location in the paddock with a second booth in the infield for
Saturday's Brit car show. If you need me to bring anything to the track,please
let me know.Stop by and say hello.Thanks, Ted

-- Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
_______________________________________________
fot at autox.team.net

http://www.fot-racing.com

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/fot/n197tr4 at cs.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jun 22 13:22:22 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 19:22:22 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Carburetor problems?
Message-ID: <COL123-DS129282C2E57D2CAE5E99A4F4C40@phx.gbl>

John--More than likely the bi-pass valve(s) are letting air come thru, allowing the engine to pull fuel with it, as Vance suggested. If you can't get the idle down thru adjustment, then replacement of these valves may be necessary.
Mark's idea of sticking weights is also a possible solution. When the engine is idling at high rpms, shut it off. Remove the distributor cap and see if you can turn the rotor clockwise, maybe 15 degrees or so. This could indicate a sticking points plate. Try squirting some WD-40 down thru an opening. If this helps, even temporarly, you'll want to remove the points plate to get a better look at things.

On the rich A/F reading on your monitor, see if you can get the green LEDs off by turning the needles up another one to 1.5 turns. On the same note, does any of this change with the high idle speeds you are also encountering? You SHOULD be able to get a decent idle without the richness you are seeing. Somewhere around 14:1.

Dick 

From Btp44 at aol.com  Tue Jun 22 16:40:08 2010
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 22 Jun 2010 18:40:08 EDT
Subject: [6pack] AOL problem/Dick Taylor
Message-ID: <43069.5424fc85.395295c8@aol.com>

Dick-Here is the message I received when the reply bounced:
 
<<< 551 <imr-da01.mx.aol.com[205.188.105.143]>: Client host  rejected: 
Resource unavailable - long term blocking 
_http://info.webtv.net/spam/index.html#205.188.105.143_ (http://info.webtv.net/spam/index.html#205.188.105.143) 

Berry

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 23 18:07:24 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 19:07:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>

hi, all.  I had to remove the tranny to replace the ring gear.  I noticed 
the bearing was also scored, so I replaced it as well.

I put the flywheel and the clutch back, using the alignment tool, but we 
can't seem to fit the gearbox.

it gets within 1/2 to 1 inch but no farther.

any ideas what's wrong?

thanks! 

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Wed Jun 23 18:12:24 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 20:12:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <AANLkTinBc55LLcNQBEFOJzjwVgV6u_NpuQhi_YlxdyLa@mail.gmail.com>

My valves are the non-adjustable type, no screw in the end.   Or at
least adjustment is a matter apparently of removing the valve and
adjusting internally with trial and error.   I happen to have another
set of carbs with adjustable valves awaiting rebuild.   Can I swap out
the valves from those?.

John North
1976 TR6

On Tue, Jun 22, 2010 at 2:22 PM, Navarrette, Vance
<vance.navarrette at intel.com> wrote:
>        John:
>
>        It is your deceleration bypass valves. Their function is to bypass
the butterfly valve during closed throttle deceleration. They improve mileage
and reduce emissions. They are too loose, and are opening under normal idle
vacuum, thus admitting more air and causing a high idle speed.
>        To adjust them, see the Bentley manual for detailed instructions.
Simply stated, you use the adjustment screw on the radiator side of each carb.
Start and fully warm the engine, then let it idle normally. If it will not
idle, you close BOTH bypass valve by turning the adjusters counter clockwise
to seat the valves. Be gentle, no need to tighten them down, just turn until
resistance is felt.
>        Now, if the car is still not idling, you must correct the idle speed
before proceeding. One carb at a time, turn the adjuster clockwise until the
idle speed rises and remains steady. Then turn the adjuster counter clockwise
ONE FULL TURN past the point where the idle returns to normal. Repeat for the
second carb.
>
>        This will correct your problem. Had this exact problem on my TR7 with
the exact symptoms. If I waited long enough, the idle would eventually return
to normal.
>
>        Cheers,
>
>        Vance
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    http://www.triumphowners.com/832
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John North
> Sent: Monday, June 21, 2010 6:47 PM
> To: Triumph 6 Pack
> Subject: [6pack] Idle increases to 2000 rpm
>
> When I coast to a traffic light...
>
> If I disengage the clutch when the RPMs are over 1500, then they do
> not drop, but increase to around 2000 and stay there.   Blipping the
> throttle leaves it at 2000 rpm
>
> <snip>
>
> Any suggestions appreciated.
>
> John North
> 1976 TR6

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Jun 23 18:39:34 2010
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 00:39:34 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem
In-Reply-To: <E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F51F7B34F7@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Did you have the tranny in gear and rotate the rear flange as you push the
tranny forward to allow the splines on the input shaft to engage with the
splines on the clutch plate ?. I assume the alignment tool is going fully into
the bearing and it is not the bearing that is at fault.

When you get to that last inch so many things have to be just right otherwise
it wont go fully home.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 8:07 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem

hi, all.  I had to remove the tranny to replace the ring gear.  I noticed
the bearing was also scored, so I replaced it as well.

I put the flywheel and the clutch back, using the alignment tool, but we
can't seem to fit the gearbox.

it gets within 1/2 to 1 inch but no farther.

any ideas what's wrong?

thanks!

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Jun 23 19:04:33 2010
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 23 Jun 2010 18:04:33 -0700
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem
In-Reply-To: <E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA64B192@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Put the tranny in gear, and rotate the output flange a bit. This will in turn
cause the input shaft to rotate, hopefully allowing the splines to align
between the clutch disk and the input shaft.

	Vance

      Vance Navarrette
      http://www.triumphowners.com/832

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Wednesday, June 23, 2010 5:07 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem

hi, all.  I had to remove the tranny to replace the ring gear.  I noticed
the bearing was also scored, so I replaced it as well.

I put the flywheel and the clutch back, using the alignment tool, but we
can't seem to fit the gearbox.

it gets within 1/2 to 1 inch but no farther.

any ideas what's wrong?

thanks!
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vance.navarrette at intel.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jun 24 12:00:38 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 24 Jun 2010 14:00:38 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Bob Goes for Another Sunday Drive
In-Reply-To: <3630344778434DA08BF8110EA005D0DD@BobPC>
References: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006070915130.26905@isis.mit.edu>
	<3630344778434DA08BF8110EA005D0DD@BobPC>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006241356390.315@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 7 Jun 2010, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Looked like a 2nd gear run the whole way?

Yep. That one was second.

> Where can I find of list of where 
> auto-x is held in the northeast?

There really isn't a single place with the listings, but there are a 
number of clubs in the northeast. In CT there's "cart" and Fairfield 
County (fcssc), perhaps one or two others that are smaller in size.

New England Region SCCA (ner/scca) runs most of thier events at Devens, MA 
at the old airfield. I know this because I'm "in charge" of those events.

> It would be fun to go and watch sometime.

c'mon down! NER's next event isn't 'till 18-JUL, though.

> Bob


>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

>> Check it out:
>> 
>> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LNYKLxHNeE0


regards,
rml

p.s. sorry for the delay in response, I was otherwise detracted for the 
last two or three weeks.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 25 05:47:22 2010
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 04:47:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA64B192@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA64B192@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <287105.34802.qm@web36105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Oliver

Just by chance, are you sure that the clutch disc was put in
correctly. The disc has on it flywheel side and trans side.

Having this in
backwards will leave you short of correct mounting.   Dale
________________________________
From: "Navarrette, Vance"
<vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; Triumph 6 Pack
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed, June 23, 2010 9:04:33 PM
Subject: Re:
[6pack] tranny problem

    Put the tranny in gear, and rotate the output
flange a bit. This will in turn
cause the input shaft to rotate, hopefully
allowing the splines to align
between the clutch disk and the input shaft.
    Vance

      Vance Navarrette
      http://www.triumphowners.com/832
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of oliver
Sent: Wednesday,
June 23, 2010 5:07 PM
To: Triumph 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem

hi,
all.  I had to remove the tranny to replace the ring gear.  I noticed
the
bearing was also scored, so I replaced it as well.

I put the flywheel and the
clutch back, using the alignment tool, but we
can't seem to fit the gearbox.
it gets within 1/2 to 1 inch but no farther.

any ideas what's wrong?

thanks!
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate:
http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Fri Jun 25 06:16:25 2010
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 08:16:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem
In-Reply-To: <287105.34802.qm@web36105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA64B192@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<287105.34802.qm@web36105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <69d0a8dc17d41.4c2465d9@wright.edu>

All,
Put disk in backwards in a TR3 once. Trans went back in fine but clutch wouldn't disengage. Splined shaft holder (technical term) on the disk  is offset, long protrusion goes toward the transmission. If not it sort of drags on the flywheel and doesn't disengage so well. We were trying for the record replacing TR clutches back in 1963. Did it in 37 minutes, now if the disk had just been in the proper direction...

Bill
'70   6 one owner

----- Original Message -----
From: Dale <tpdwinch at yahoo.com>
Date: Friday, June 25, 2010 7:48 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] tranny problem
To: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net>, Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>

> Oliver
> 
> Just by chance, are you sure that the clutch disc was put in
> correctly. The disc has on it flywheel side and trans side.
> 
> Having this in
> backwards will leave you short of correct mounting.   Dale
> ________________________________
>wright.edu

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 25 10:19:45 2010
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 11:19:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem
In-Reply-To: <69d0a8dc17d41.4c2465d9@wright.edu>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA64B192@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<287105.34802.qm@web36105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<69d0a8dc17d41.4c2465d9@wright.edu>
Message-ID: <70C51EBD26324F7E9FDDDF3775DDBBCA@ranteer.local>

  HI, all.

I had hoped to let this die quietly, to avoid embarrassment . . . .

apparently the flywheel has knobs on it, that must fit into receivers on the
engine side.  apparently it is possible to think it is installed right but in
fact one or more of these knobs are not in their respective hole.

that causes everything to be off kilter and make life frustrating and
difficult.

let's just say I think I've learned from the experience . . .

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Jun 25 11:48:10 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Fri, 25 Jun 2010 13:48:10 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] tranny problem
In-Reply-To: <70C51EBD26324F7E9FDDDF3775DDBBCA@ranteer.local>
References: <AANLkTilnI04orPM4JjG7lCTVECMFGnSosDJoz_v1ZpB4@mail.gmail.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA5D86F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<E4968FB4253F419A914E561D24E88CD0@ranteer.local>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BA64B192@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<287105.34802.qm@web36105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<69d0a8dc17d41.4c2465d9@wright.edu>
	<70C51EBD26324F7E9FDDDF3775DDBBCA@ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1006251343240.3515@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 25 Jun 2010, oliver wrote:

[stuff deleted]

> that causes everything to be off kilter and make life frustrating and
> difficult.
>
> let's just say I think I've learned from the experience . . .

Okay - two things.

First - the challenge: remember this detail the next time you do the job. 
Like 10 years from now. GOOD LUCK!! :-) (*)

Second - for the last 10 or so clutch / flywheel jobs I've done, I use 
heat on the flywheel to get it to fit on the crank more easily. That 
method seems to work well. Especially with aluminium.

I don't have my Bentley TR6 manual handy, but it may actually say that 
you're supposed to use heat for this job. Not a LOT of heat, but enough to 
get the flywheel center up to about 200F.

The crank to flywheel is an interference dimension, if I recall correctly.

(*) Will you still feed me, when I'm 65!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Tue Jun 29 19:33:09 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian@asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 20:33:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims
Message-ID: <20100630013229.D9760187A6A@autox.team.net>

Does anyone on the list know if there were standard sizes for the
differential carrier bearing shims? I've measured all of mine as I
disassembled it for a rebuild and find most are .003, .005 or .010; however
there some that measure .011 and .0055 and .006. I tried to remove all
traces of matter from the shims before measuring and I've also tried to
minimize measurement error (am using a calibrated micrometer). TRF lists
only the three sizes mentioned in the second sentence and I am inclined to
believe my oddballs started life as the ones listed, but who knows? I cannot
re-use the original shims.
 
My goal is to take out the annoying clunk caused by excessive spider gear
backlash with thicker shims and change out all bearings (except the pinions
- I know better). Surprisingly, the crown and pinion are in very good
condition.
 
Brian J. Alwin
1972 TR6 CC79085

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Wed Jun 30 06:56:48 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 07:56:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims
In-Reply-To: <BAY150-w2701F57804F8FCA1C2806D9FCC0@phx.gbl>
References: <20100630013229.D9760187A6A@autox.team.net>
	<BAY150-w2701F57804F8FCA1C2806D9FCC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001a01cb1853$b636fbc0$22a4f340$@biz>

Dear Bob:

 

I replaced the OEM half-shafts with the Revington TR up-rated slider units
last year. They have eliminated some of the drive-line slop and took care of
an irritating low-frequency vibration. I highly recommend them. I'm now
having my carbs rebuilt by Paltech so am taking the opportunity to eliminate
the rest of the clunking while the vehicle is out of service.

 

When I took my diff apart, I could see that as I turned the pinion with both
sub axles under load (as in a straight, standing start), the smaller
differential/spider gears would "walk" and then slide on the shaft pin and
hit the carrier with a "thump". There is apparently too much clearance
between the gears and carrier; the current .060 shims (worn to .050) are
insufficient. My plan is to use thicker shims as supplied by TR to take up
this excessive clearance. As a result, the spider gears should make better,
and slightly different contact than they had been. Anyway, that's my theory
at this time!

 

 

Brian

 

 

 

From: Bob Rochlin [mailto:r_rochlin at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 5:49 AM
To: brian at asmoothmove.biz
Subject: RE: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims

 

Hi Brian,

          I have a 72 TR6 with, what seems to be, an un-diagnosable clunk.
Have you looked into the possibility that it may be the half shaft splines?
I'm really interested in your rebuild results.

          Good luck and take care.

          Bob

> From: brian at asmoothmove.biz
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tue, 29 Jun 2010 20:33:09 -0500
> Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims
> 
> Does anyone on the list know if there were standard sizes for the
> differential carrier bearing shims? I've measured all of mine as I
> disassembled it for a rebuild and find most are .003, .005 or .010;
however
> there some that measure .011 and .0055 and .006. I tried to remove all
> traces of matter from the shims before measuring and I've also tried to
> minimize measurement error (am using a calibrated micrometer). TRF lists
> only the three sizes mentioned in the second sentence and I am inclined to
> believe my oddballs started life as the ones listed, but who knows? I
cannot
> re-use the original shims.
> 
> My goal is to take out the annoying clunk caused by excessive spider gear
> backlash with thicker shims and change out all bearings (except the
pinions
> - I know better). Surprisingly, the crown and pinion are in very good
> condition.
> 
> Brian J. Alwin
> 1972 TR6 CC79085
> _______________________________________________
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/r_rochlin at hotmail.com
> 

 

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From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Wed Jun 30 07:05:35 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 08:05:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims
In-Reply-To: <F48F2547F36142B5AD08629E0E277E37@norman>
References: <20100630013229.D9760187A6A@autox.team.net>
	<F48F2547F36142B5AD08629E0E277E37@norman>
Message-ID: <001f01cb1854$efb30f00$cf192d00$@biz>

Dear Colin: Thanks for supplying that "gem" of a manual! I will definitely
use it. It has more detail regarding diffs than Bentley's. My experience
with rebuilding differentials is to-date limited to just Ford 8/9-inchers.

Brian





-----Original Message-----
From: Colin Grimes [mailto:cgrimes at golden.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, June 30, 2010 3:58 AM
To: Brian at asmoothmove.biz
Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims

And I thought the clunks were a requirement, hope this helps keep me posted
colin

From aplueddemann at whoi.edu  Wed Jun 30 14:34:31 2010
From: aplueddemann at whoi.edu (Al Plueddemann)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:34:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Soft top too tight?
Message-ID: <4C2BAA57.9080004@whoi.edu>

  Folks, I am in the final stages of installing a new soft top. I was
dreading a floppy mess, so was careful to tighten everything up at
the headliner before gluing. I may have over done it. The top can
barely be secured with two people working hard to get the latches in
and secured before it pops off again. And (per the instructions I was
following) the side snaps are not even attached yet. I expect that is
going to make it even tighter.

So, my question is... what is the collected wisdom on a top that is
initially very tight. Is this no big deal, it will loosen up with
time and use? Or have I made a mistake here and will be doomed in
the winter when things are cold and shrink up? Should I pull off the
glued headliner and start over? Can I use something like a heat gun
to loosen the top without redoing the glue? etc, etc. Any advice
appreciated.

-- 
------------------------------------------------------------------------
   Al Plueddemann
   202A Clark Lab, MS-29                          phone: (508) 289-2789
   Woods Hole Oceanographic Institution             fax: (508) 457-2163
   Woods Hole, MA  02543-1541              email: aplueddemann at whoi.edu
------------------------------------------------------------------------

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Wed Jun 30 15:03:09 2010
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 16:03:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Soft top too tight?
Message-ID: <410-2201063302139362@earthlink.net>

Al,

I replaced the top on my '73 TR6 two years back. I intensionally installed
it on the loose side, now it is just right. I have owned Triumphs before
and have never seen one that the top got looser over time.Cold weather can
make putting the top up a nightmare. If the glue is still fresh, now is the
time to rework it.


Greg Gelhar
Osseo, MN


> Subject: [6pack] Soft top too tight?
>
>   Folks, I am in the final stages of installing a new soft top. I was
> dreading a floppy mess, so was careful to tighten everything up at
> the headliner before gluing. I may have over done it. The top can
> barely be secured with two people working hard to get the latches in
> and secured before it pops off again. And (per the instructions I was
> following) the side snaps are not even attached yet. I expect that is
> going to make it even tighter.
>
> So, my question is... what is the collected wisdom on a top that is
> initially very tight. Is this no big deal, it will loosen up with
> time and use? Or have I made a mistake here and will be doomed in
> the winter when things are cold and shrink up? Should I pull off the
> glued headliner and start over? Can I use something like a heat gun
> to loosen the top without redoing the glue? etc, etc. Any advice
> appreciated.
>
>    Al Plueddemann

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Wed Jun 30 19:31:04 2010
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 21:31:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Oil pressure - how much is too much?
Message-ID: <AANLkTik-cqYC9qFr5o0HzFp8xlHdmMf59fz01IVj3RTq@mail.gmail.com>

At cold start idle I am seeing 70# plus.   At 1500 rpm engine warm,
over 50#, close to 70# at highway speeds.   After I come off the
highway, full warmed,   I am seeing around 30.   Didn't used to be
this way but I did switch from 30 weight break in oil to 20/50 this
spring.   Have about 3000 miles on the engine now.   I am concerned
that I may not be getting enough flow...   If the pressure gets that
high maybe there's a blockage somewhere.

Should I be concerned...

John North

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Jun 30 20:01:08 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 30 Jun 2010 22:01:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Soft top too tight?
In-Reply-To: <4C2BAA57.9080004@whoi.edu>
References: <4C2BAA57.9080004@whoi.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W5AF34D827994FB39D6C6CBACD0@phx.gbl>

Al for what its worth I just had a top installed by a professional that does a
lot of high end antique cars. It is very tight. He says he usually recommends
for optimum fit that his customers not even put the top down for 30 days to
give it time to stretch and conform. I'm happy with it. The last one I did on
my own and was never happy with how loose it was.

Marty


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