From gtwincams at gmail.com Thu Jul 1 09:16:40 2010 From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian) Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 08:16:40 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Oil pressure - how much is too much? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C2CB158.40209@gmail.com> John, That's not unusually high for a tight TR6 motor in my experience, and mine with about 25k has the same pressure. I'd be more concerned if it were higher, and certainly if it were substantially lower. Cheers, Greg Tatarian 1971 Lotus Elan (60+ lbs cold, 40 lbs hot, 20 lbs idle, fresh rebuild, normal pressure range for that motor) 1974 Triumph TR6 From gaf3 at charter.net Thu Jul 1 09:48:54 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Thu, 01 Jul 2010 11:48:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims Message-ID: <4C2CB8E6.1080609@charter.net> Glenn Franco wrote: Brian > I have read the three posts pertaining to your backlash issue and it > appears that apples and oranges are being compared. > I have rebuilt many axles and the relationship of the parts discussed > don't seem to relate. > > * Carrier bearing shims will move the ring gear laterally left or > right changing contact with the drive pinion. > * Moving the drive pinion fore and aft using shims will change the > ring and drive pinion contact pattern. > * Some noise (clunk) can come from excessive backlash (drive > pinion to ring gear) > * Side gears sit in the case and mate up to the stub axles (yes > there are shim or washers behind them) > * If the spider gears have too much backlash (movement) then > either the cross shaft is worn in the case or yes the washer > thickness needs to be increased. > * Carrier bearing shims will _not_ have any effect on the spider > gear clearance > > These are 4 differential pinion or spider gear shims (cup shims) > listed from TRF > The side gear only has one shim listed Maybe I'm missing something in the conversation but the biggest cause of clunk in these TR6's is usually worn or broken mounts that need to be replaced. Urethane mounting parts seem to work the best. Good Luck Glenn 71,72 TR6, TR250 and Spit race car From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jul 1 10:05:02 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 12:05:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims In-Reply-To: <4C2CB8E6.1080609@charter.net> References: <4C2CB8E6.1080609@charter.net> Message-ID: On Thu, 1 Jul 2010, Glenn Franco wrote: > Maybe I'm missing something in the conversation but the biggest cause of > clunk in these TR6's is usually worn or broken mounts that need to be > replaced. Urethane mounting parts seem to work the best. Actually, that's not completely true. There are a bunch of places in the rear driveline that can cause clunks, the mounts being just one. Everyone seems to like to document the broken mounts because - well, I don't know exactly why, but it seems to make good material for web sites and stuff like that. :-) But excessive backlash in the spider (aka sun/planet) gears, improper end-float on the pinion bearings and then there's the other stuff like failed u-joint bearings and the ever popular sliding spline wear thing can all contribute to the clunk experience on TR6's. And they all seem to contribute to the ever popular "replace everything" scenario that many of us wind up experiencing. If you have clunks, you pretty much have to look at everything above, not just one thing. At least that's my experience. > Good Luck > Glenn > 71,72 TR6, TR250 and Spit race car regards, rml various and sundry Triumphs and Triumph bits here and there --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From anabil007 at comcast.net Thu Jul 1 10:20:02 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 09:20:02 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Shims In-Reply-To: References: <4C2CB8E6.1080609@charter.net> Message-ID: We fought these problems for two years, with very little success, finally gave up and switched to Richard Goods Differential, Shaft and Hubs upgrade kits ... the difference is amazing ... all the components from Richard are of the highest quality and installation is relatively simple (I was able to do it ...) Not cheap, but you get what you pay for ... http://www.goodparts.com Check out the drivetrain section .... >On Thu, 1 Jul 2010, Glenn Franco wrote: > >>Maybe I'm missing something in the conversation but the biggest >>cause of clunk in these TR6's is usually worn or broken mounts that >>need to be >>replaced. Urethane mounting parts seem to work the best. > >Actually, that's not completely true. There are a bunch of places in >the rear driveline that can cause clunks, the mounts being just one. >Everyone seems to like to document the broken mounts because - well, >I don't know exactly why, but it seems to make good material for web >sites and stuff like that. > >:-) > >But excessive backlash in the spider (aka sun/planet) gears, >improper end-float on the pinion bearings and then there's the other >stuff like failed u-joint bearings and the ever popular sliding >spline wear thing can all contribute to the clunk experience on >TR6's. And they all seem to contribute to the ever popular "replace >everything" scenario that many of us wind up experiencing. > >If you have clunks, you pretty much have to look at everything >above, not just one thing. > >At least that's my experience. > >>Good Luck >>Glenn >>71,72 TR6, TR250 and Spit race car -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From johncnorth at gmail.com Thu Jul 1 13:33:47 2010 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Thu, 1 Jul 2010 15:33:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Oil pressure - how much is too much? In-Reply-To: <4C2CB158.40209@gmail.com> References: <4C2CB158.40209@gmail.com> Message-ID: On Thu, Jul 1, 2010 at 11:16 AM, Greg Tatarian wrote: > John, > That's not unusually high for a tight TR6 motor in my experience, and mine > with about 25k has the same pressure. I'd be more concerned if it were > higher, and certainly if it were substantially lower. > Cheers, > Greg Tatarian > 1971 Lotus Elan (60+ lbs cold, 40 lbs hot, 20 lbs idle, fresh rebuild, > normal pressure range for that motor) > 1974 Triumph TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/johncnorth at gmail.com From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Fri Jul 2 09:32:32 2010 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 11:32:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing Message-ID: <00F3AB6D326D4F6592E649B98D908511@Jerry2> How important is an in-line restrictor in the hose between the ZS carb mixing chamber ports and the top of the carbon canister? The impact of this plumbing on idle? Jerry Shaw '74 Mallard Green From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jul 2 11:33:51 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 10:33:51 -0700 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing In-Reply-To: <00F3AB6D326D4F6592E649B98D908511@Jerry2> References: <00F3AB6D326D4F6592E649B98D908511@Jerry2> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BC950230@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Jerry: Depends on your camshaft and other engine modifications. If your engine is bone stock, then you do not need a restrictor there. If you are running a larger than stock camshaft, the effect is identical to that of a vacuum leak - rough idle, stalling, etc. I am running a 270 degree cam with 9.6:1 compression and B1AR needles in my ZS carbs. I had to install a restrictor to get the idle to be decent since the larger camshaft drops the manifold vacuum, and the engine will not tolerate air in the mixing chambers nearly as well. Vance Vance Navarrette http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry C Shaw Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 8:33 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing How important is an in-line restrictor in the hose between the ZS carb mixing chamber ports and the top of the carbon canister? The impact of this plumbing on idle? Jerry Shaw '74 Mallard Green _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vance.navarrette at intel.com From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Fri Jul 2 13:44:37 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 15:44:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing In-Reply-To: <00F3AB6D326D4F6592E649B98D908511@Jerry2> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9A85@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi Jerry: Recently I plugged that line completely and found that my idle has smoothed out quite a bit. That is with the Good triple Stromberg kit with totally rebuilt carbs and a rebuilt brake booster. Unfortunately, around same time I also fixed a valve cover gasket which was leaking some oil, so it is possible that I have also repaired another issue. Nevertheless, overall idle is definitely better. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry C Shaw Sent: July 2, 2010 11:33 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing How important is an in-line restrictor in the hose between the ZS carb mixing chamber ports and the top of the carbon canister? The impact of this plumbing on idle? Jerry Shaw '74 Mallard Green From johncnorth at gmail.com Fri Jul 2 20:19:42 2010 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Fri, 2 Jul 2010 22:19:42 -0400 Subject: [6pack] If it's not carbs ... it's the alternator Message-ID: So I got the spare carbs rebuilt, installed them, balanced, tuned. Bypass valve functioning, no miss. Hallelujah. But the alternator is showing 17 volts. Same at the battery and the alternator. Increase rpms and the voltage climbs more. I assume the internal regulator somehow freaked out. Moss sells two regulator types for the different alternators and references them by a 5 digit number. My car is a '76 CF54900U, but I cannot find any numbers on the alternator. It is a Lucas, has a thick brown, thin brown and brown/yellow wire. Air pump has been removed (Moss references one alternator as being for the car with no air pump - not sure why that makes a difference at the alternator). Haven't worked on an alternator before - is it a simple matter to replace the regulator? Any clues about where to find the numbers, or which one I should use? Any help appreciated, I am gearing up for the Mad Dogs show next week (Kalamazoo. Michigan) and really want to get this back on the road... John North From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Jul 3 10:59:07 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 03 Jul 2010 12:59:07 -0400 Subject: [6pack] A good andHappy Independence day from TSI Message-ID: <4C2F6C5B.4090603@bright.net> Uncle Sam,.Spitfire adn his friend "hydrant" wish you all a good Independence Day. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From tom628 at verizon.net Sun Jul 4 16:20:38 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sun, 04 Jul 2010 18:20:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9A85@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <9DFAD7681EE94A22952C6401B6C85CC3@Toms> Mark or Jerry: Could you please clarify exactly where this restrictor should be found, and what it looks like? Looking at the Moss catalog, it seems that it is only used with the 2-outlet cannister (and is N/A). Is the hose referrred to, the larger dia. one at the fwd side of the carbs, or the small dia. one one the rear side? Thanks, Tom '76 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" To: "'Jerry C Shaw'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 3:44 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] emissions plumbing > Hi Jerry: > > Recently I plugged that line completely and found that my idle has > smoothed > out quite a bit. That is with the Good triple Stromberg kit with totally > rebuilt carbs and a rebuilt brake booster. > > Unfortunately, around same time I also fixed a valve cover gasket which > was > leaking some oil, so it is possible that I have also repaired another > issue. > > Nevertheless, overall idle is definitely better. > > Mark > 1972 TR6 > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Jerry C Shaw > Sent: July 2, 2010 11:33 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing > > How important is an in-line restrictor in the hose between the ZS carb > mixing > chamber ports and the top of the carbon canister? The impact of this > plumbing > on idle? > > Jerry Shaw > '74 Mallard Green > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom628 at verizon.net From colinthom at shaw.ca Sun Jul 4 21:37:27 2010 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 20:37:27 -0700 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir Message-ID: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> Hi Gang, I've discovered a brake fluid leak at the rear cylinder/reservoir seal. When I rebuild the cylinder now that I've got it out, has anyone got any suggestions about ways to improve this seal? It's a flat-faced seal and I'm sure the next one will leak sooner instead of later, too. Also, any comments about filling the system with DOT 5 when I put it all back together, though it's had DOT 3 until now? A lister once told me (was it you, Vance?) that they'd flushed out their DOT 3 and replaced it with DOT 5 without incident. I've got DOT 5 in the clutch system and have never had any problems but the folks at Apple Hydraulics are firmly anti-DOT 5, so I thought I'd throw it out there.. Thanks for your help, Colin '75 From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au Mon Jul 5 01:36:26 2010 From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc ) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 17:36:26 +1000 Subject: [6pack] TOO MUCH COMPRESSION? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <082DC0FF75024A93BAD73908241B9C09@johnqg3ed0cywf> Just a general question to those who may know better than I. I've just completed a port & polish & modified the combustion chambers on my TR6 head and have calculated the compression as being close to 10:1 (bore 78, stroke 95, Combustion chamber 39cc, Piston dome -6cc, head gasket bore 79.3, compressed gasket at 1.11 and zero deck clearance). Given that this is a fairly hot street car, is this too much? Are the modern fuels up to it? I have the opportunity of fitting a second head gasket to reduce it down to about 9.1:1 but would like some advice first? Another related question, are there thicker head gaskets available for an overbored (2.7litre) engine? If so, I think that would be better than using 2 gaskets. All opinions welcome. Thanks. John Mc '71 TR6 PI '76 Dolomite 1850 '76 Dolomite Sprint '64 2000 Estate "Fast is First" From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Jul 5 06:59:10 2010 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 08:59:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir In-Reply-To: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> References: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> Message-ID: <4C31D71E.70508@maine.rr.com> Colin; I've been running DOT 5 for several years now. NO issues! No paint issues, either. Before making the switch from DOT 3, my PDWA leaked onto the frame and adjoining area. By the time I discovered the problem, I had a mess to clean up and to repaint! Flushing the system of DOT 3 is straightforward and seems to provide me a firmer pedal, even at summertime temperatures. Not sure why Apply Hydraulics would be so adamant for you to stay with DOT 3 but, if you ask them, I'd bet the list would be interested to hear their reasoning.... Cheers! Dave Friedlander '74 Six w/A-OD and TBI On 7/4/2010 11:37 PM, Colin Thom wrote: > Hi Gang, > > > > I've discovered a brake fluid leak at the rear cylinder/reservoir seal. When > I rebuild the cylinder now that I've got it out, has anyone got any > suggestions about ways to improve this seal? It's a flat-faced seal and I'm > sure the next one will leak sooner instead of later, too. Also, any > comments about filling the system with DOT 5 when I put it all back > together, though it's had DOT 3 until now? A lister once told me (was it > you, Vance?) that they'd flushed out their DOT 3 and replaced it with DOT 5 > without incident. I've got DOT 5 in the clutch system and have never had any > problems but the folks at Apple Hydraulics are firmly anti-DOT 5, so I > thought I'd throw it out there.. > > > > Thanks for your help, > > > > Colin '75 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Jul 5 12:58:09 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 18:58:09 GMT Subject: [6pack] TOO MUCH COMPRESSION? Message-ID: John Mc---You could be right on the fringe of detonation with the 10:1 CR. So it would be best to use the highest octane pump gas you can get. If you're on the East coast, this could be the 94 at Sunoco stations. There are scattered stations across the country that I've seen that carry this higher octane, but don't recall which States. It is not a good idea to try stacking head gaskets, as this method wouldn't last too long before blowing. There are thicker copper gaskets available that are said to be of some value. I think Morty Dunst sells them. He may also have the gaskets for the overbore. Sorry, I don't know how to contact him. You could try the engine as is, listening carefully for the distinct rattle of detonation under load. Reduce the ignition timing as far as practical to see if you can stop the rattle. If you retard too far, you'll lose some of the power you were after to begin with. You'll want to have at least 26 deg. BTDC when the timing is "all in". Some boosters in a can will up the octane numbers a little. The "104+ Super Octane" is one of the better ones. Expect the spark plugs to look a little strange, if you do use this. Everything here is a trade off. If you are using a cam with a large valve overlap, like the S2, this will help bleed off some of the cylinder pressure at lower rpm. As you may know, it's a combo of many things that allows one to get away with the higher CRs. Cooler air, knock sensors, forged pistons, and the like. Dick From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jul 5 13:19:56 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 15:19:56 -0400 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir In-Reply-To: <4C31D71E.70508@maine.rr.com> References: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> <4C31D71E.70508@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <217FAF5E5CA449ECA958C18A60CD6A04@BobPC> My HDVA 5 speed conversion comes with a hydraulic T/O bearing and the manufacturer, Quarter Master, states that using DOT5 will void the warranty. Previous to using the Quarter Master T/O bearing, HDVA supplied one from McLeod which had the same requirement. All I can come up with is that the T/O bearing seal doesn't play nice with DOT5. Maybe Apple has seen the same problem. Other then the paint eating issue, there's nothing wrong with DOT3................all modern cars with ABS brakes still use it. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "David Friedlander" Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 8:59 AM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] brake master reservoir > Colin; > > I've been running DOT 5 for several years now. NO issues! No paint > issues, either. > Before making the switch from DOT 3, my PDWA leaked onto the frame and > adjoining > area. By the time I discovered the problem, I had a mess to clean up > and to repaint! > Flushing the system of DOT 3 is straightforward and seems to provide me > a firmer > pedal, even at summertime temperatures. > > Not sure why Apply Hydraulics would be so adamant for you to stay with > DOT 3 but, > if you ask them, I'd bet the list would be interested to hear their > reasoning.... > > Cheers! > > Dave Friedlander > '74 Six w/A-OD and TBI From johntempe8 at q.com Mon Jul 5 14:31:20 2010 From: johntempe8 at q.com (JOHN T REYNOLDS) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 20:31:20 +0000 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir In-Reply-To: <217FAF5E5CA449ECA958C18A60CD6A04@BobPC> References: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> <4C31D71E.70508@maine.rr.com>, <217FAF5E5CA449ECA958C18A60CD6A04@BobPC> Message-ID: I've used DOT 5 in the HDVA conversion but can't remember if it's the McLeod or Quarter Master system. Also have the Apple calipers and M/C with DOT 5. Both were started from new with DOT 5. No problems after two years. My original McLeod leaked after a few years with DOT 3. Go figure. I found a Dept of Defense Tech bulletin that called for converting all new vehicles from DOT 3 to 5 when the vehicles were received. The bulletin called for a flush with DOT 5 for the change over. Don't have the link but recall it was through a vintage military vehicle website. I'm re building my car now and will convert when I put it back together. My paint had taken quite a beating from DOT 3 over the years. I'll keep you posted. John 71TR6 > From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > To: forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 15:19:56 -0400 > Subject: Re: [6pack] brake master reservoir > > My HDVA 5 speed conversion comes with a hydraulic T/O bearing and the > manufacturer, Quarter Master, states that using DOT5 will void the warranty. > Previous to using the Quarter Master T/O bearing, HDVA supplied one from > McLeod which had the same requirement. All I can come up with is that the > T/O bearing seal doesn't play nice with DOT5. Maybe Apple has seen the same > problem. > > Other then the paint eating issue, there's nothing wrong with > DOT3................all modern cars with ABS brakes still use it. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "David Friedlander" > Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 8:59 AM > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] brake master reservoir > > > Colin; > > > > I've been running DOT 5 for several years now. NO issues! No paint > > issues, either. > > Before making the switch from DOT 3, my PDWA leaked onto the frame and > > adjoining > > area. By the time I discovered the problem, I had a mess to clean up > > and to repaint! > > Flushing the system of DOT 3 is straightforward and seems to provide me > > a firmer > > pedal, even at summertime temperatures. > > > > Not sure why Apply Hydraulics would be so adamant for you to stay with > > DOT 3 but, > > if you ask them, I'd bet the list would be interested to hear their > > reasoning.... > > > > Cheers! > > > > Dave Friedlander > > '74 Six w/A-OD and TBI > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/johntempe8 at q.com From tr6 at atlasok.com Mon Jul 5 15:12:42 2010 From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 16:12:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing Message-ID: <00a101cb1c86$cf8757a0$6e9606e0$@com> The restrictor is placed in the line that originates at the gas tank and ends at the canister about 3 inches from the canister. Some people have trouble with venting of the gas tank when the restrictor is plugged. A vacuum can build in the tank and affect the flow of fuel to the carbs. John Phillips Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK Green Country Triumphs http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Jul 5 15:14:05 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 17:14:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing In-Reply-To: <9DFAD7681EE94A22952C6401B6C85CC3@Toms> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA9D9A8B@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi Tom: On my 72 TR6 the restrictor was at the top entry of the charcoal canister. It was a white piece of plastic about 1/2" long with a hole about 3/16" drilled in it. The part had a ridge at the top edge to stop it from slipping into the canister. This was fitted to the large pipe leading to the front side of the carbs. Cheers, Mark -----Original Message----- From: Tom Note [mailto:tom628 at verizon.net] Sent: July 4, 2010 6:21 PM To: Mark Hooper; 'Jerry C Shaw'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] emissions plumbing Mark or Jerry: Could you please clarify exactly where this restrictor should be found, and what it looks like? Looking at the Moss catalog, it seems that it is only used with the 2-outlet cannister (and is N/A). Is the hose referrred to, the larger dia. one at the fwd side of the carbs, or the small dia. one one the rear side? Thanks, Tom '76 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Mark Hooper" To: "'Jerry C Shaw'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, July 02, 2010 3:44 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] emissions plumbing > Hi Jerry: > > Recently I plugged that line completely and found that my idle has > smoothed > out quite a bit. That is with the Good triple Stromberg kit with totally > rebuilt carbs and a rebuilt brake booster. > > Unfortunately, around same time I also fixed a valve cover gasket which > was > leaking some oil, so it is possible that I have also repaired another > issue. > > Nevertheless, overall idle is definitely better. > > Mark > 1972 TR6 > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Jerry C Shaw > Sent: July 2, 2010 11:33 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing > > How important is an in-line restrictor in the hose between the ZS carb > mixing > chamber ports and the top of the carbon canister? The impact of this > plumbing > on idle? > > Jerry Shaw > '74 Mallard Green From tr6 at atlasok.com Mon Jul 5 15:18:35 2010 From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 16:18:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing Message-ID: <00a701cb1c87$a2fb6c20$e8f24460$@com> Sorry, the other half of the answer is the restrictor is a piece of metal that is cylindrical with a flange half way up the length with a small hole down the center. The ends fit into the hose from the tank and pressure is regulated through the small hole. The hole is very small, I would guess .020" or smaller, and easily plugged. It is about an inch long if I recall correctly, maybe a little more. John Phillips Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK Green Country Triumphs http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] From tr6 at atlasok.com Mon Jul 5 15:25:50 2010 From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 16:25:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir Message-ID: <00ad01cb1c88$a44338f0$ecc9aad0$@com> My experience with Dot 5, it dissolved all the rubber parts in my brake master and clutch slave. Dot 4 for me from now on. I also have no use for the nylatron suspension bushings I just removed. Going to try the polyurethane. While I am at it, I think I found the answer to putting oil in trunnions. If you are looking, check out the link. http://www.drillspot.com/products/48085/Pressol_05222_Oiler John Phillips Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK Green Country Triumphs http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] From motrv8d at hotmail.com Mon Jul 5 16:41:41 2010 From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 22:41:41 +0000 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir In-Reply-To: <00ad01cb1c88$a44338f0$ecc9aad0$@com> References: <00ad01cb1c88$a44338f0$ecc9aad0$@com> Message-ID: For what its worth, I have owned at least 30 British cars over the last 25 years. About 15 years ago, I started using Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid. I can say that I have never lost any paint due to the failure of a part, nor do I think any part failed due to the use of it. As a matter of fact, I have only had one master cylinder go out, and even then, the car had sat for about 5 months when I discovered that it didn't work. > From: tr6 at atlasok.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 16:25:50 -0500 > Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir > > My experience with Dot 5, it dissolved all the rubber parts in my brake > master and clutch slave. Dot 4 for me from now on. > > > > I also have no use for the nylatron suspension bushings I just removed. > Going to try the polyurethane. > > > > While I am at it, I think I found the answer to putting oil in trunnions. > If you are looking, check out the link. > > > > http://www.drillspot.com/products/48085/Pressol_05222_Oiler > > > > > > John Phillips > Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK > Green Country Triumphs > http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/motrv8d at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From tedtsimx at bright.net Mon Jul 5 16:58:33 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 18:58:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TOO MUCH COMPRESSION? In-Reply-To: <082DC0FF75024A93BAD73908241B9C09@johnqg3ed0cywf> References: <082DC0FF75024A93BAD73908241B9C09@johnqg3ed0cywf> Message-ID: <4C326399.2040909@bright.net> John, quick math shows you about 9.8. You are right on the border of too much. Years ago this was not a problem. We would run 10.6 or higher on cast pistons. Problem is today's gas burn hotter so you have the issue of increased pressure (compression ratio) and increased burn temp on the piston head. Not good. I suggest you redo the calculations for compression ratio to see what you really have. (CR=V1 + V2 divided by V2). V1 is the volume of the cylinder. V2 is the volume of space above the piston at tdc. Make sure to include any dish in the piston and the volume of the head gasket in V2. A simple fix is too have the piston coated. Top coating is for heat and skirt coating for "slippery". We build a lot of engines and this is a very viable alternative. No need for custom made gaskets, etc. Ted John Mc wrote: > Just a general question to those who may know better than I. I've just completed a port & polish & modified > the combustion chambers on my TR6 head and have calculated the compression as being close to 10:1 (bore 78, > stroke 95, Combustion chamber 39cc, Piston dome -6cc, head gasket bore 79.3, compressed gasket at 1.11 and > zero deck clearance). Given that this is a fairly hot street car, is this too much? Are the modern fuels up > to it? I have the opportunity of fitting a second head gasket to reduce it down to about 9.1:1 but would like > some advice first? Another related question, are there thicker head gaskets available for an overbored > (2.7litre) engine? If so, I think that would be better than using 2 gaskets. All opinions welcome. Thanks. > > John Mc > '71 TR6 PI > '76 Dolomite 1850 > '76 Dolomite Sprint > '64 2000 Estate > "Fast is First" > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tedtsimx at bright.net Internal Virus Database is out of date. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.437 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2910 - Release Date: 06/01/10 06:25:00 From fishplate at charter.net Mon Jul 5 18:20:10 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 20:20:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Trunnion oiler In-Reply-To: <00ad01cb1c88$a44338f0$ecc9aad0$@com> References: <00ad01cb1c88$a44338f0$ecc9aad0$@com> Message-ID: At 05:25 PM 7/5/2010, John Phillips wrote: >While I am at it, I think I found the answer to putting oil in trunnions. >If you are looking, check out the link. > >http://www.drillspot.com/products/48085/Pressol_05222_Oiler I used an oil can from Harbor Freight - similar to this one: I put a grease hose and fitting on the end, and it worked OK for a little while, but then the trigger folded up. I suspect the 90-wt. oil is reluctant to flow through it. You might have found a better oil can, but it doesn't like like it in that picture. I've got one of these , just waiting for a chance to clean the grease out and try it with oil. If it works, I'll buy another and have one for trunnions and one for grease.. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au Mon Jul 5 19:03:29 2010 From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc ) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:03:29 +1000 Subject: [6pack] TOO MUCH COMPRESSION In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <6B7D2B26C6E44B5C9C899DCB9C0D3F68@johnqg3ed0cywf> Thanks for all the input into my dilema! From most of the comments, I think I should be OK with it as is. Definitely not going to use two gaskets! The compression is closer to 9.8:1 (averaged across all cylinders after a re-measure) and given that we have 98 RON premium petrol here, it's probably not going to cause too many detonation issues. Worst case, I'll have to run some octane booster! Thanks again, John Mc '71 TR6 PI '76 Dolomite 1850 '76 Dolomite Sprint '64 2000 Estate "Fast is First" From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Jul 5 20:26:29 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 5 Jul 2010 22:26:29 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TOO MUCH COMPRESSION In-Reply-To: <6B7D2B26C6E44B5C9C899DCB9C0D3F68@johnqg3ed0cywf> References: , <6B7D2B26C6E44B5C9C899DCB9C0D3F68@johnqg3ed0cywf> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA946162@CMS01.winhosting.local> Hi John: Just to note that there are quite a few high-compression standard engines out there today. I have a 2006 DTS with a Northstar V8. The standard compression ratio is between 10:1 and 10.3:1. Following the introduction of the coil-on-plug model in 2000 premium fuel was no longer required. However, my TR6 used to run on awfully unless I put at least 90 octane fuel in the tank. It has a slightly shaved head, but I don't think it is over 9:1 CR. So the fuel octane requirement seems to be more related to specific engine construction than any precise compression ratio. Cheers, Mark ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mc [john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au] Sent: July 5, 2010 9:03 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TOO MUCH COMPRESSION Thanks for all the input into my dilema! From most of the comments, I think I should be OK with it as is. Definitely not going to use two gaskets! The compression is closer to 9.8:1 (averaged across all cylinders after a re-measure) and given that we have 98 RON premium petrol here, it's probably not going to cause too many detonation issues. Worst case, I'll have to run some octane booster! Thanks again, John Mc '71 TR6 PI '76 Dolomite 1850 '76 Dolomite Sprint '64 2000 Estate "Fast is First" _______________________________________________ From tom628 at verizon.net Mon Jul 5 21:19:17 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Mon, 05 Jul 2010 23:19:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing References: <00a101cb1c86$cf8757a0$6e9606e0$@com> Message-ID: <6105884181744D46B360AD6562600306@Toms> Mark and John: Thanks much for the info. To my surprise, I do have both of the restrictors. The one at the canister entry was really cruddy, and I cleaned it up. The other one I'll take care of tomorrow. I wonder if clogging of either could affect idle, etc? Thanks guys. Amazing how one can always learn something from the folks on this list. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Phillips" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 5:12 PM Subject: [6pack] emissions plumbing > The restrictor is placed in the line that originates at the gas tank and > ends at the canister about 3 inches from the canister. Some people have > trouble with venting of the gas tank when the restrictor is plugged. A > vacuum can build in the tank and affect the flow of fuel to the carbs. > > > > John Phillips > Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK > Green Country Triumphs > http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of > image001.gif] > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom628 at verizon.net From george_loriot at hotmail.com Tue Jul 6 05:59:18 2010 From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 07:59:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] cluster master cylinder question Message-ID: Hi Listers,I have a more or less stock 76 TR6 daily driver and there's an odd thing with the clutch master cylinder - it doesn't release all the way. The pushrod has about 3/8" slack before it hits the piston. There's a tiny bit of play at the point where the pushrod connects to the pedal, but the slack is really due to the cylinder piston not returning to fully released. The result is that the clutch point is only about 1" from the floor and it makes shifting stiff. The slave pushrod has almost to play, and is in the center hole of the release lever thingy. For the first few years I owned the car, the clutch point was high and the shifts were easy, with no drag at all. This 'low clutch point' has been going on for awhile, but other TR6 issues have kept me busy. Now I want to fix this and am asking the wisdom of the list if they've seen this before. Is this something that requires bleeding? I haven't touched t he clutch of linkage in the 10 years/50K miles I've had the car. Except I recently replaced the slave pushrod with an adjustable one to see if that would help. It didn't.Am I crazy or can the master piston get stuck in it's bore partway toward release? I've had no fluid leaks in the clutch hydraulics. Any help will be greatly appreciated. George Loriot1976 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From gaf3 at charter.net Tue Jul 6 07:12:46 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 09:12:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C332BCE.9080801@charter.net> Colin > *I have had the same issues with the TR6 Master cylinders. I have replaced the square cut seal, replaced with a larger O-ring seal, replaced the reservoir with a good used one, replaced with a new reservoir and the condition seems to repeat. Generaly the problem seems to re-appear with high underhood temps (running in hot weather).* > The only sure fix was a new Lucas/TRW master cylinder assembly that I filled without hesitation with DOT 5. TRW also voids the warranty on the DOT 3. In my past life we released DOT 3 because of the relatively low cost and its ability to absorb moisture (hygroscopic). We hot tested the brake systems at the wet boiling point for performance. Thats something Silicone brake fluid is not very good at. Cut your time and your losses. Buy a new assembly. I got tired of repainting the underhood area of the car. Just my humble opinion Glenn Franco > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Sun, 4 Jul 2010 20:37:27 -0700 > From: "Colin Thom" > Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Message-ID: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Hi Gang, > > > > I've discovered a brake fluid leak at the rear cylinder/reservoir seal. When > I rebuild the cylinder now that I've got it out, has anyone got any > suggestions about ways to improve this seal? It's a flat-faced seal and I'm > sure the next one will leak sooner instead of later, too. Also, any > comments about filling the system with DOT 5 when I put it all back > together, though it's had DOT 3 until now? A lister once told me (was it > you, Vance?) that they'd flushed out their DOT 3 and replaced it with DOT 5 > without incident. I've got DOT 5 in the clutch system and have never had any > problems but the folks at Apple Hydraulics are firmly anti-DOT 5, so I > thought I'd throw it out there.. > > > > Thanks for your help, > > > > Colin '75 From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Jul 6 08:13:54 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 10:13:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir In-Reply-To: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> References: <000401cb1bf3$63b8cf10$2b2a6d30$@ca> Message-ID: Hi, I won't get into the debate on fluid... it's been done in the past, check the archives. But I will offer the following: I've rebuilt a few M/C's and prety much everything hydraulic on my cars, and in the recent past I've had some odd seal failures. On further review, it appears that the seals seem to get damaged during installation. The worst one was the caliper seal on the race car (threshhold braking with ONE front caliper is exciting, to say the least). At any rate, the last 5 or 6 rebuilds were done with the proper red girling assembly grease and everything has held up beyond my expectations. So, if you can find the stuff, I highly recommend using the red Girling assembly grease when putting hydralics back together. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair DOT 4 w 500+ dry boil | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From george_loriot at hotmail.com Tue Jul 6 09:06:20 2010 From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 11:06:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH master cylinder.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I apologize for the word "cluster" - it should be 'clutch' master cylinder.Weak excuse: I'm working on a computer cluster. Not much of an excuse.... > From: george_loriot at hotmail.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 07:59:18 -0400 > Subject: [6pack] cluster master cylinder question > > Hi Listers,I have a more or less stock 76 TR6 daily driver and there's an odd > thing with the clutch master cylinder - it doesn't release all the way. The > pushrod has about 3/8" slack before it hits the piston. There's a tiny bit of > play at the point where the pushrod connects to the pedal, but the slack is > really due to the cylinder piston not returning to fully released. The result > is that the clutch point is only about 1" from the floor and it makes > shifting stiff. The slave pushrod has almost to play, and is in the center > hole of the release lever thingy. > For the first few years I owned the car, the clutch point was high and the > shifts were easy, with no drag at all. This 'low clutch point' has been going > on for awhile, but other TR6 issues have kept me busy. Now I want to fix this > and am asking the wisdom of the list if they've seen this before. Is this > something that requires bleeding? I haven't touched t he clutch of linkage in > the 10 years/50K miles I've had the car. Except I recently replaced the slave > pushrod with an adjustable one to see if that would help. It didn't.Am I > crazy or can the master piston get stuck in it's bore partway toward release? > I've had no fluid leaks in the clutch hydraulics. > Any help will be greatly appreciated. > George Loriot1976 TR6 > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your > inbox. > http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL > :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/george_loriot at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Jul 6 13:20:29 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 19:20:29 GMT Subject: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH master cylinder.. Message-ID: George---Interesting story, and seems to be a little different than the usual clutch woes. I'll toss out a couple of suggestions for you to check: a) Take out the clutch MC and shake out the inner workings. We want to be sure that the little tang (under the spring) is holding the parts in their place. If this assembly has come apart, squeeze it all together and depress the tang, as instructed by the repair manual or the instruction sheet that comes with the CMC rebuild kit. b) If all was OK here, next consider what goes on when the clutch itself is released and re-engages. The diaphragm fingers alone is what pushes all of the linkage back to the 'rest' position. The "adjustable" rod doesn't do squat, and it's a crime for vendors to suggest that the TR6 clutch play problems can be cured with one of these. (All play at the SC is taken up hydraulically) Anyway...the stroke length here should be close to 1/2 inch at the slave cylinder. IF you're not seeing this, AND a) above is/was not the problem, AND the MC clevis pin linkage is reasonably without slop, then what could be going on is that the fork pin is broken and was the culprit all along. (Altho I suspect it's in the a) area) Please write back. I for one always like to hear how these things are resolved. Dick From william.mcintire at wright.edu Tue Jul 6 15:53:00 2010 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 17:53:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH master cylinder.. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <65e0943a240dd.4c336d7c@wright.edu> Dick - George - and All, Your post jogged what little memory I have left. Back in the early '60's like '62 maybe, TR3's developed similar problems as described here. Problem was the spring in the clutch master cylinders were breaking. Results, same problem as here. Was only one model year as I remember can't remember which one, apparently a metallurgical problem with springs. We had to use VW beetle springs to repair as that was all that was available. Doubt if it is the problem here, but history has a tendency to repeat. FWIW, hope it helps Bill '70 6 one owner ----- Original Message ----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010 4:17 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH master cylinder.. To: George Loriot , 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > George---Interesting story, and seems to be a little different > than the usual clutch woes. I'll toss out a couple of > suggestions for you to check: > > a) Take out the clutch MC and shake out the inner workings. We > want to be sure that the little tang (under the spring) is > holding the parts in their place. If this assembly has come > apart, squeeze it all together and depress the tang, as > instructed by the repair manual or the instruction sheet that > comes with the CMC rebuild kit. > > b) If all was OK here, next consider what goes on when the > clutch itself is released and re-engages. The diaphragm fingers > alone is what pushes all of the linkage back to the 'rest' > position. The "adjustable" rod doesn't do squat, and it's a > crime for vendors to suggest that the TR6 clutch play problems > can be cured with one of these. (All play at the SC is taken up > hydraulically) Anyway...the stroke length here should be > close to 1/2 inch at the slave cylinder. IF you're not seeing > this, AND a) above is/was not the problem, AND the MC clevis pin > linkage is reasonably without slop, then what could be going on > is that the fork pin is broken and was the culprit all along. > (Altho I suspect it's in the a) area) > > Please write back. I for one always like to hear how these > things are resolved. > > Dick From terry at shrinx.com Tue Jul 6 16:50:16 2010 From: terry at shrinx.com (Terry Riley) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 16:50:16 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Roll Bar Message-ID: <0B65BAF7-507B-4793-934C-7E045BB063D9@shrinx.com> I'm shopping for a TR6. Are roll bars really safety equipment or are they added for looks? Anyone know of a case where a driver or passenger has been saved by a roll bar? Mike From william.mcintire at wright.edu Tue Jul 6 18:37:32 2010 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Tue, 06 Jul 2010 20:37:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <0B65BAF7-507B-4793-934C-7E045BB063D9@shrinx.com> References: <0B65BAF7-507B-4793-934C-7E045BB063D9@shrinx.com> Message-ID: <68e0c5f326e96.4c33940c@wright.edu> Mike, Had a '67 GT 350. 5 ton refrigerated meat packing truck ran a stop sign. I hit him ~50 MPH. Truck rolled over on the 350, mashed it good. The factory bar is the reason I am able to write this now. Had some pretty serious injuries but the bar kept me from being flattened like the rest of the car. My 6 has a bar, hopefully will never be used. Bill '70 6 one owner ----- Original Message ----- From: Terry Riley Date: Tuesday, July 6, 2010 7:32 pm Subject: [6pack] Roll Bar To: 6pack at autox.team.net > I'm shopping for a TR6. Are roll bars really safety equipment or > are > they added for looks? Anyone know of a case where a driver > or > passenger has been saved by a roll bar? > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/william.mcintire at wright.edu From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Tue Jul 6 19:26:26 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 21:26:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <0B65BAF7-507B-4793-934C-7E045BB063D9@shrinx.com> References: <0B65BAF7-507B-4793-934C-7E045BB063D9@shrinx.com> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AEA94616A@CMS01.winhosting.local> Roll bars have a very specific but high safety value. After having spent the vacation money on a new overdrive transmission, it also helps to have a roll bar installed. That way you can stand on the other side of the car from your wife and, unless she is a pole vaulter, she will be unable to leap over the roll bar to get at you. Other than that hopefully rare occasion, unless bolted through to the frame, in cockpit roll bars are mostly cosmetic. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 (with roll bar) ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Terry Riley [terry at shrinx.com] Sent: July 6, 2010 6:50 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Roll Bar I'm shopping for a TR6. Are roll bars really safety equipment or are they added for looks? Anyone know of a case where a driver or passenger has been saved by a roll bar? Mike From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Jul 6 20:23:45 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 6 Jul 2010 22:23:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Roll Bar In-Reply-To: <0B65BAF7-507B-4793-934C-7E045BB063D9@shrinx.com> References: <0B65BAF7-507B-4793-934C-7E045BB063D9@shrinx.com> Message-ID: Hi, I'd urge you to do just a bit of searching on the team.net archives on the subject, because it has been discussed in depth in the past. Some folks are really quite passionate with their answers. There really is no absolute right / wrong on this one. However, as touched by other responses, not all roll bars are created equal. The parcel shelf bars are for the most part cosmetic. Yes, they are made with 1/5" DOM tube, so the tube itselfs shouldn't crush in all but the most severe impact, but the support is basically fairly thin steel (I think the body is 15 or 16 gauge) so unless you spread the load over a really wide area (like 6 by 6 inches) the parcel shelf will crush in a rollover... The better bars are the ones that bolt to the floor next to the body mounts. They have a diagonal brace from the passenger lower corner to near the driver top corner and there's some safety stuff built in (like the bar for a back brace. The setup is way better for rollover and crash protection because it extends pretty much the full width of the passenger tub. The stock Autopower setup like this is too tall to allow you to "erect the hood", so this is pretty much a race only setup. There is a bar available (Hi Ted!!) that will fit under the hood so that's a good compromise, but there are tradeoffs (like the bar to the top of your head _may_ not be adequate in a worst case rollover). Read up on the "broomstick test". The really big deal for ME is that rollbars are made of a material that has essentially no "give" in a collision. If one of your body contacts the bar under a collision scenario, you will -BEST CASE- break bones. So, you MUST pad whatever you install. Pad it very, very well. Especially if there's any chance your head can hit it. So, there are tradeoffs in the safety aspects of the bars available. Ultimately, your decision should be based on how you use your car. I can say from direct experience that it is very, very hard to roll a TR6. It's not impossible, but a lot of factors have to stack up against you and in those circumstances the roll over potential may be the least of your concerns. But 10 minutes in a head trauma ward should be enough to convince most folks that a head strike on a roll bar (or any hard part in a car) is just plain bad. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From george_loriot at hotmail.com Wed Jul 7 09:50:16 2010 From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 11:50:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH master cylinder.. In-Reply-To: <65e0943a240dd.4c336d7c@wright.edu> References: , <65e0943a240dd.4c336d7c@wright.edu> Message-ID: Thanks to the list - Bob, Dick, Bill - looks like it was a bit of 3 things: egg-shaped holes at the pedal/pushrod joint AND a sticky piston in the M/C. Once the M/C was out, the pushrod had about 1/4" of travel before it hit the piston. There had been a little loss of fluid, inside the boot, that didn't show up on the outside or as a loss at the M/C reservoir. But it was enough to gunk up the area around and under the washer that stops the piston. And the return spring may has lost its moxie.... So the piston never returned all the way. I was surprised that the cylinder bore looks good, no pits, so probably a little honing and rebuild. I'm tempted to be really cheap (er, frugal) and reuse the seal but i'll get a kit. I'm bringing the clutch pedal and pushrod to my friendly machinist and have him recenter the pushrod, maybe with a brass bushing that can be replaced if the egg-shapes return.And I'll order a new return spring Thanks to the list for the suggestions. George _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From 75teer6 at gmail.com Wed Jul 7 10:30:04 2010 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 10:30:04 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Kool PIX In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Congratulations Bob, Photos 128 & 131 are GREAT! The feeling behind the wheel must be wonderful. Henri On Fri, May 7, 2010 at 8:25 AM, Robert M Lang wrote: > Hi, > > I wound up having a pretty good day at a New England Region SCCA autocross > last weekend. > > Check out the pix here: > > http://furball.smugmug.com/Autocross/05-02-2010-NHMS/12091228_RSNH2#859076566 > _tD84i > > particularly pictures 128 and 133. > > How do you spell TORQUE?? > > FWIW, I also PAXED #1 or 89 drivers. I have never PAXed an NER/SCCA event, so > I was actually stunned when they announced that I'd accomplished that. > > Far out. > rml > > Bob Lang > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75teer6 at gmail.com > > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Jul 7 12:12:33 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 07 Jul 2010 18:12:33 GMT Subject: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH master cylinder.. Message-ID: George---Have the machinist find the center or the original hole in the pedal arm and bore it out to accept a 7/16x5/16 inch bushing. As you said, then all that will be required is pushing out the worn bushing and squeezing in the new. Next time! An oval in the push rod is harder to fix. Don't know of any parts supplier that will sell you a new rod, unless you spring for a whole new MC. You you want, you can cut the thru the length of the pushrod, add an eigth inch to it, and braze it back together. This will compensate for the loss of length due to wear. Not really necessary, but do-able. Dick From alanatkinson at hotmail.com Wed Jul 7 19:39:59 2010 From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson) Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 21:39:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Looking for a part for a 250 Message-ID: http://mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32843 In case the URL gets stripped I'm referring to Moss 250/6:Restoration Parts/Body Panels & Structure/Front Part #20: 855-655 and 855-665 Both sides. Passenger is more urgent than drivers. Moss and TRF are both back ordered. I'll either purchase outright or replace when they come back in stock. Anyone able to help? TIA, Alan _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From machinemd at msn.com Thu Jul 8 10:28:32 2010 From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN) Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 12:28:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] speedi-sleeve In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey Guys....I've got a question for the more experienced minds. My 1974 1/2 TR6 needs a rear crankshaft seal for the second time in recent years and I want to get it right this time. Can anybody give me the proper size speedi-sleeve number for it? I can easily get it locally with the proper size/number. And tho I still have a new seal, is there one suppliers or manufacturers better than the others? The engine was completely rebuilt 5 years/12,000 miles ago so I don't think anything else comes into it. Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jul 8 12:11:28 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 11:11:28 -0700 Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir In-Reply-To: <00ad01cb1c88$a44338f0$ecc9aad0$@com> References: <00ad01cb1c88$a44338f0$ecc9aad0$@com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BCA3DCCD@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> John: Interesting. My experience has been exactly the opposite. Reliable service for over three years now. Wonder why the difference? Did you convert by simply doing a purge, or were your orings and seals fresh I wonder? Vance Vance Navarrette http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Phillips Sent: Monday, July 05, 2010 2:26 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] brake master reservoir My experience with Dot 5, it dissolved all the rubber parts in my brake master and clutch slave. Dot 4 for me from now on. John Phillips Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK Green Country Triumphs From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jul 8 12:35:05 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 08 Jul 2010 18:35:05 GMT Subject: [6pack] speedi-sleeve Message-ID: Steve---Sometimes there is another option to adding a speedi-sleeve. What we are buying with such a device is a fresh area which can ride on a seal. Most grooves are as narrow as the lip of the seal that caused it. With the rear seal, one can move it forward or rearward enough in it's housing to pick up a "new" area on the crankshaft. Worth a look-see? More thoughts...Be sure the engine is able to exhaust any crankcase pressure, so oil is not forced out at the seal areas. Dick -----Original Message----- From: STEVE STERN Sent: Thursday, July 8, 2010 9:28 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedi-sleeve Hey Guys....I've got a question for the more experienced minds. My 1974 1/2 TR6 needs a rear crankshaft seal for the second time in recent years and I want to get it right this time. Can anybody give me the proper size speedi-sleeve number for it? I can easily get it locally with the proper size/number. And tho I still have a new seal, is there one suppliers or manufacturers better than the others? The engine was completely rebuilt 5 years/12,000 miles ago so I don't think anything else comes into it. Any thoughts? Thanks, Steve _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From brian at asmoothmove.biz Thu Jul 8 18:23:37 2010 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Thu, 8 Jul 2010 19:23:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Cap Needed Message-ID: <000f01cb1efc$faa1ca10$efe55e30$@biz> Dear List: On re-building my differential I discovered a cracked carrier bearing cap. Does anyone have a spare new/used cap that they would be willing to sell? If so, please contact me off-list. Thanks! Brian Brian J. Alwin 1972 TR6 CC79085 From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Jul 10 07:37:04 2010 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 09:37:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator issues Message-ID: I just finished installing rebuilt carbs, and noticed that the voltmeter was showing 18 volts. Measured voltage at the battery, same thing. I assumed the internal regulator is bad, happened to have one from an old unit, it was slightly different, but a four wire regulator, so i installed that. Odd... the ignition warning light is on even before I turn on the ignition. When started, the warning lamp goes off and voltmeter still shows 18 volts. So I guess this regulator is wrong for this alternator and buy a new regulator. But I have the same result. The ignition warning light is on before starting, goes off on starting, and the voltmeter shows 18 volts. I need help... I have Masters book, but he only covers what to do when the ignition warning light comes on during operation. I can't imagine what I could've done when replacing the carbs, can't see a connection there, but I'm missing something... John North 1976 TR6 From ken at azkiwis.com Sat Jul 10 09:52:01 2010 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 08:52:01 -0700 Subject: [6pack] off the air Message-ID: going to be off the air for a bit (1-6 months); time to travel and scrounge through wrecker yards through-out the world. TR6 will be washed and kept out of the sun until I return.. Ken 73 TR6 > Sonoran Desert Weather http://weather.azkiwis.net From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sat Jul 10 14:56:13 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 16:56:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question Message-ID: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> Anyone running 7 inch wide alloys on a TR? I am considering a set for my TR4 but not sure if they are too wide for a stock TR. Also, will 205 width fit ok or too narrow for 7 inch? Thanks, Jim Henningsen 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jul 10 15:11:24 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 17:11:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> References: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> Message-ID: <201007101711.26350.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, July 10, 2010 04:56:13 pm James Henningsen wrote: > Anyone running 7 inch wide alloys on a TR? I am considering a set for my > TR4 but not sure if they are too wide for a stock TR. Also, will 205 > width fit ok or too narrow for 7 inch? > Thanks, > Jim Henningsen > 62 TR4 CT5212LO > 75 TR6 Jim, I have 205s on 6 1/2 inch Superlites for my 72 TR6. I would guess a 205 would fit on a 7 inch rim ok. Cant put the superlites on the 4 to check clearance because the 4 has wire wheels. I have wanted to check the superlites on my 58 TR3 but never could find that round-to-it. Bob From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sat Jul 10 16:05:50 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 18:05:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <201007101711.26350.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> <201007101711.26350.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Thanks Bob. I found out on TireRack.com that 205s will fit up to a 7 inch rim. Just find a tire and check the specs section as it shows the rim width range. The big question is how much they might stick out of the wheel well???? jim henningsen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: "James Henningsen" Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2010 5:11 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question > On Saturday, July 10, 2010 04:56:13 pm James Henningsen wrote: >> Anyone running 7 inch wide alloys on a TR? I am considering a set for my >> TR4 but not sure if they are too wide for a stock TR. Also, will 205 >> width fit ok or too narrow for 7 inch? >> Thanks, >> Jim Henningsen >> 62 TR4 CT5212LO >> 75 TR6 > Jim, > > I have 205s on 6 1/2 inch Superlites for my 72 TR6. I would guess a 205 > would > fit on a 7 inch rim ok. > > Cant put the superlites on the 4 to check clearance because the 4 has wire > wheels. I have wanted to check the superlites on my 58 TR3 but never could > find that round-to-it. > > Bob From gaf3 at charter.net Sat Jul 10 17:43:25 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 19:43:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator issues In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C39059D.6040504@charter.net> John your charging voltage is of course higher than it should be. Generally I would condemn the voltage regulator in the alternator. I would have the battery checked with a load test. Any of the Autozones or O'riellies can do it even it they don't know what the test is called. Your high voltage may be caused by a sulfated battery. This is pretty common on with a battery that's been in the discharged shape for a while. you may also have a bad cell. You can will also notice higher than normal charging voltage using a good battery charger if you have a bad or shorted cell in a battery. Have the battery checked. Good Luck Glenn Franco 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote: > > I just finished installing rebuilt carbs, and noticed that the > voltmeter was showing 18 volts. Measured voltage at the battery, > same thing. I assumed the internal regulator is bad, happened to > have one from an old unit, it was slightly different, but a four wire > regulator, so i installed that. Odd... the ignition warning light is > on even before I turn on the ignition. When started, the warning > lamp goes off and voltmeter still shows 18 volts. So I guess this > regulator is wrong for this alternator and buy a new regulator. But > I have the same result. The ignition warning light is on before > starting, goes off on starting, and the voltmeter shows 18 volts. > > I need help... I have Masters book, but he only covers what to do > when the ignition warning light comes on during operation. I can't > imagine what I could've done when replacing the carbs, can't see a > connection there, but I'm missing something... > > John North > 1976 TR6 From ikorey at comcast.net Sat Jul 10 21:51:54 2010 From: ikorey at comcast.net (Irv Korey) Date: Sat, 10 Jul 2010 22:51:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> References: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> Message-ID: On Sat, Jul 10, 2010 at 3:56 PM, James Henningsen wrote: > Anyone running 7 inch wide alloys on a TR? I am considering a set for my > TR4 > but not sure if they are too wide for a stock TR. Also, will 205 width fit > ok > or too narrow for 7 inch? > I'm running 16x7 on my TR6 with 205/55x16 with no issues. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From vance.navarrette at intel.com Sun Jul 11 12:02:31 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 11:02:31 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> References: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BCAC25FD@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Jim: I do not recommend the 205 width because of the risk of damaging the sheet metal on your car. When backing out of a driveway, the tire edge will snag on the inside lip of the front fender, bending the sheet metal and blowing off a chunk of paint the size of a quarter. While I am sure that many people will swear that they have no problems with 205 or even 215 widths, the results will vary based on your driveway, suspension modifications, offset, wheel widths, aspect ratio, etc. So it is impossible to say if you will experience this with any certainty (I can only say that I have, with 205/70 tires, stock wheels and suspension). The first time you trash your paint and fender because of this, you will probably be very upset, I know I was. I recommend 195/65-15 instead. This will keep the tire away from your sheet metal and new paint. In addition, the steering effort will be lighter that if you go to the wider tires as the contact patch will be narrower. If you want more cornering ability, there are other ways to get it besides risking your bodywork and paint. Vance Vance Navarrette http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2010 1:56 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question Anyone running 7 inch wide alloys on a TR? I am considering a set for my TR4 but not sure if they are too wide for a stock TR. Also, will 205 width fit ok or too narrow for 7 inch? Thanks, Jim Henningsen 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sun Jul 11 17:58:11 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 19:58:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BCAC25FD@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <0BE7E08039AF4C888747A41D7BE6A987@TRGUY> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BCAC25FD@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: Vance: Thanks for the feedback. Based on the feedback from many, I think I will look for some 15x6 rims and go with 195 width. Anyone have a set of 15x7 alloys??? Jim Henningsen ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "James Henningsen" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, July 11, 2010 2:02 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question Jim: I do not recommend the 205 width because of the risk of damaging the sheet metal on your car. When backing out of a driveway, the tire edge will snag on the inside lip of the front fender, bending the sheet metal and blowing off a chunk of paint the size of a quarter. While I am sure that many people will swear that they have no problems with 205 or even 215 widths, the results will vary based on your driveway, suspension modifications, offset, wheel widths, aspect ratio, etc. So it is impossible to say if you will experience this with any certainty (I can only say that I have, with 205/70 tires, stock wheels and suspension). The first time you trash your paint and fender because of this, you will probably be very upset, I know I was. I recommend 195/65-15 instead. This will keep the tire away from your sheet metal and new paint. In addition, the steering effort will be lighter that if you go to the wider tires as the contact patch will be narrower. If you want more cornering ability, there are other ways to get it besides risking your bodywork and paint. Vance Vance Navarrette http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen Sent: Saturday, July 10, 2010 1:56 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Alloy Wheel Question Anyone running 7 inch wide alloys on a TR? I am considering a set for my TR4 but not sure if they are too wide for a stock TR. Also, will 205 width fit ok or too narrow for 7 inch? Thanks, Jim Henningsen 62 TR4 CT5212LO 75 TR6 From mark at bradakis.com Sun Jul 11 21:31:17 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 11 Jul 2010 21:31:17 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] What fun Message-ID: <20100712033117.1A19A2E032@bradakis.com> Those of you who have email that gets routed in various ways through AT&T, like att.net, sbcglobal.net, pacbell, etc. Have most likely not seen any Team.Net email for a few days. For some reason AT&T was blocking Team.Net. I have no idea why, what started it, and you folks don't pay me enough to waste a day on the phone sifting through an endless stream of clueless "tech support" drones to find out why. I have gotten the block removed and am in the process of getting the effected addresses back into normal operation. Thank you for your patience. mjb. From motrv8d at hotmail.com Mon Jul 12 16:00:25 2010 From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 22:00:25 +0000 Subject: [6pack] kinda crazy, but it is TR6 related Message-ID: I check a site every week called Post Secret (www.postsecret.com) after one of my friends told me about it. A guy has a address where people can send secrets on post cards that they don't want to tell anybody else, but want to get them off their chest. This week, a guy sent in a post card with a hand drawn TR6, dreaming of leaving his wife and baby to go riding in it. As I said, kinda crazy, but....... _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail is redefining busy with tools for the New Busy. Get more from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_2 From rnorris1 at swbell.net Mon Jul 12 17:13:59 2010 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Mon, 12 Jul 2010 16:13:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] What fun Message-ID: <511632.62946.qm@web81506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks, Mark. I am an att customer and received a notice from the list that I was being dropped due to excessive "bounces". I renewed my subscription as suggested in the email and it seems to be working now as evidenced by receipt of the digest. Rick Norris From jmerone at rocketmail.com Tue Jul 13 12:38:25 2010 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 11:38:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Post-secret Message-ID: <450310.80241.qm@web30902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> When you see it - it's actually kind of sad. Although the writer wants to leave the wife and baby and get in his car, it's not because he wants to go for a ride - it's to go get high. The Post Secret folks just happened to pick a TR6 for the car on the card. Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed From: Gene Holtzclaw Subject: [6pack] kinda crazy, but it is TR6 related To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" I check a site every week called Post Secret (www.postsecret.com) after one of my friends told me about it. A guy has a address where people can send secrets on post cards that they don't want to tell anybody else, but want to get them off their chest. This week, a guy sent in a post card with a hand drawn TR6, dreaming of leaving his wife and baby to go riding in it. As I said, kinda crazy, but....... From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Jul 13 13:11:52 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 12:11:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] My first Car-74 TR6 Message-ID: <747331.18304.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Our local neswpaper the ST PETERSBURG TIMES has a daily feature from readers about "my first car". Today's paper featured the 74 TR6 of Chip Brubaker, a tall skinny kid in 1982 when he got the car. Interestingly he says in the article that he had an agreement with the high school friend from whom he bought the car that if he ever decided to sell it the buddy had first right of refusal. After keeping the car for 24 years Chip sold it back to his buddy. Glad to see it went back to a good home. See the article at: http://www.tampabay.com/news/business/autos/my-first-car-1974-triumph-tr6-chi p-brubaker-53-palm-harbor/1108455 From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue Jul 13 16:51:02 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 15:51:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) Message-ID: <942997.41449.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Oh Boy, Tires! Following up on Vance's comments 1956515 seems to give you more choices then 2057015. better availability of higher speed ratings too I think. I have to face this soon as I bought my 1957015 Goodyear Eagle GTs in 1998. They may have been on the dealer's shelf a while as it was a rather uncommon size. Bruce Simms 73 with stock wheels for now. Maybe switch to minilites or something when I buy new tires. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jul 13 21:22:03 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 13 Jul 2010 22:22:03 -0500 Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) In-Reply-To: <942997.41449.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <942997.41449.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <533E7C00EA544C16961ED38B4974F4F1@ranteer.local> I'm running Yokohama 215/60 R15 94V ES100 tires from tirerack.com. No problem on fit, even on the lowered suspension. They stop, corner, etc. I'm happy! (stock wheels) -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bruce Simms" Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:51 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) > Oh Boy, Tires! > > Following up on Vance's comments > > 1956515 seems to give you > more choices then 2057015. better availability of > higher speed ratings too > I think. > > I have to face this soon as I bought my 1957015 Goodyear Eagle GTs > in 1998. > They may have been on the dealer's shelf a while as it was a > rather uncommon > size. > > Bruce Simms > 73 with stock wheels for now. Maybe > switch to minilites or something when I > buy new tire From wensley_tr at comcast.net Wed Jul 14 06:22:48 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 08:22:48 -0400 Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) In-Reply-To: <533E7C00EA544C16961ED38B4974F4F1@ranteer.local> References: <942997.41449.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <533E7C00EA544C16961ED38B4974F4F1@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <001d01cb234f$45cf1960$d16d4c20$@net> I'm running the 225-55-16 with a lowered suspension No problems here Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 11:22 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) I'm running Yokohama 215/60 R15 94V ES100 tires from tirerack.com. No problem on fit, even on the lowered suspension. They stop, corner, etc. I'm happy! (stock wheels) -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bruce Simms" Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 5:51 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) > Oh Boy, Tires! > > Following up on Vance's comments > > 1956515 seems to give you > more choices then 2057015. better availability of > higher speed ratings too > I think. > > I have to face this soon as I bought my 1957015 Goodyear Eagle GTs > in 1998. > They may have been on the dealer's shelf a while as it was a > rather uncommon > size. > > Bruce Simms > 73 with stock wheels for now. Maybe > switch to minilites or something when I > buy new tire _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wensley_tr at comcast.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Jul 14 10:21:46 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 09:21:46 -0700 Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) References: <942997.41449.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001501cb2370$ab2a3350$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> I am running 205/70 -15 Yoko AVID TRZ (Tire Rack) with stock wheels and suspension on a '71. No problems at all and the speedo is within 1 MPH as tested by GPS. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bruce Simms" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, July 13, 2010 3:51 PM Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) > Oh Boy, Tires! > > Following up on Vance's comments > > 1956515 seems to give you > more choices then 2057015. better availability of > higher speed ratings too > I think. > > I have to face this soon as I bought my 1957015 Goodyear Eagle GTs > in 1998. > They may have been on the dealer's shelf a while as it was a > rather uncommon > size. > > Bruce Simms > 73 with stock wheels for now. Maybe > switch to minilites or something when I > buy new tires. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14880 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14880 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jul 14 08:14:52 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 10:14:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Differential Carrier Bearing Cap Needed In-Reply-To: <000f01cb1efc$faa1ca10$efe55e30$@biz> References: <000f01cb1efc$faa1ca10$efe55e30$@biz> Message-ID: On Thu, 8 Jul 2010 brian at asmoothmove.biz wrote: > Dear List: On re-building my differential I discovered a cracked carrier > bearing cap. Does anyone have a spare new/used cap that they would be > willing to sell? Correct me if I'm wrong, but the caps are align bored to the case, so you may have to do more than just try to bolt a new cap down. I've always moved the caps with the case and if one is borken or lost I move the guts to a different case that has the caps. Let us know how you make out! > If so, please contact me off-list. Sorry - I thought this might be og general interest. > Thanks! > > > > Brian regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jul 14 12:04:17 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 14 Jul 2010 11:04:17 -0700 Subject: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) In-Reply-To: <001d01cb234f$45cf1960$d16d4c20$@net> References: <942997.41449.qm@web65615.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <533E7C00EA544C16961ED38B4974F4F1@ranteer.local> <001d01cb234f$45cf1960$d16d4c20$@net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725BCAC3517@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Craig: A couple of things may help here. Are your springs or shocks stiffer than stock? Also, wheel offset will affect fender clearance as well. Heck, I suppose the shape of the tire shoulder and number of miles on the tires matters. If you changed any of those, then you may never see the problem. As I stated, it is a combination of factors that leads to the tire snagging on the fender and resulting in bent sheet metal. In my case, it is 205/70-R15 Yokohama Avids and a totally stock suspension and wheels on my 1974-1/2 that led to damaged sheet metal. Sigh. It happened when I backed out of my driveway and had the wheels cramped to make the turn backing into the street. Front end dropped over the lip of the driveway resulting in a barely perceptible bounce and the tire snagged the sheet metal. Thinking about it, it will always happen on the outside front in reverse, or the inside front when going forward. Wheels must be cramped. Vance Vance Navarrette http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Craig Sent: Wednesday, July 14, 2010 5:23 AM To: 'oliver'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] alloy Wheel Question (Now Tire Sizes) I'm running the 225-55-16 with a lowered suspension No problems here Craig From dave at ranteer.com Sun Jul 18 12:56:33 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (dave) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 13:56:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] curious dizzy In-Reply-To: <00163645923cc247dd045d1cd2e3@google.com> References: <00163645923cc247dd045d1cd2e3@google.com> Message-ID: <5986D7E47A294AB9A5BD470A8F77044C@ranteer.local> I had my dizzy, with pertronix, sent out to a "local expert" recommended by my mechanic. he doesn't polish like Jeff, and obviously is not so good. (I have since sent my TR3 dizzy to jeff) I'm running a spare in the mean time, and it runs fine. I get the dizzy back, line it up like my spare, and both the rotor and the tang at the bottom are in alignment (matches the working spare). I put it in, and I get great fireworks out both the tailpipe and the carbs, just depending on how I rotate it. great fun, but obviously the car won't run. I've heard of dizzy's being 180 degrees out, but in my poor naove brain, that says to me that the rotor would be 180 degrees off. which it doesn't appear to be in this case. can someone enlighten me? and tell me how to fix this? (I am considering sending both to Jeff and having him resolve it!) should I move the wires over 3 places and see if that works? From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Jul 18 13:38:08 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 19:38:08 GMT Subject: [6pack] curious dizzy Message-ID: Dave---To get the timing close enough to where the engine should run without all of the drama you now see, try the following: Turn the engine over to where the pointer on the timing cover is right at the "0" mark on the pulley. (If in doubt as to whether #1 or #6 should be ready to fire, you can take off the valve cover and see whether #1 valves or #6 valves are closed.) You want the engine to where #1 cylinder is the one that should be ready to fire. With the engine stopped at #1, the rotor tip should be pointed right at, or very close to the #1 spark plug wire in the distributor cap. IF...you were running with points, they would be just ready to open, with the rotor running CCW. I don't know exactly where the Pertronics signal would be, but it's the same idea. I don't think you're 180 out, but easy enough to check, by moving all the plug wires the same 180. Setting the timing as in the paragraph above should tell you where you're at. Sending the distributor back to the one who overhauled it may prove futile. The solution is most likely in the final installation and timing. Dick From william.mcintire at wright.edu Sun Jul 18 19:21:43 2010 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Sun, 18 Jul 2010 21:21:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] curious dizzy In-Reply-To: <5986D7E47A294AB9A5BD470A8F77044C@ranteer.local> References: <00163645923cc247dd045d1cd2e3@google.com> <5986D7E47A294AB9A5BD470A8F77044C@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <6810c92b39922.4c437067@wright.edu> Dave, Is it possible the keyway at the bottom of the dist is is installed 180 out? It won't really fit this way but stranger things have happened. If it drags enough it may rotate the dist. and try to run 180 out. I suppose it may be possible to install the key on the shaft backwards while rebuilding the unit. Just swapping the distributors and using same cap shouldn't cause the problem. If you get in the area, might take a look. Set point dist so you know it is firing #1 with cap off. swap units and see where the rotor points. If it is at #6, there ya go. Good luck. Bill "70 6 From drs at socal.rr.com Mon Jul 19 16:50:56 2010 From: drs at socal.rr.com (Douglas R. Schirripa) Date: Mon, 19 Jul 2010 15:50:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] RHD TR-6 Message-ID: <03.F5.14763.3E6D44C4@hrndva-omtalb.mail.rr.com> Dear 6packers: I have a need to convert a US 1974 TR-6 to RHD. Is there any chance that someone on the list had intended to do such a project and has gathered all the bits, but is not going to continue? Or, possibly, does anyone have a RHD donor car? Please contact me off list (drs at socal.rr.com) if you have anything, pieces or info that would help. Thanks to all. drs From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Jul 21 14:38:22 2010 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 15:38:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] It's Summertime Message-ID: It's summertime & this list has been somewhat dormant. Everybody must be out enjoying their cars? I get more looks in my TR6 than any other car I've ever driven. I think I'll keep it! From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Jul 21 16:18:59 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 18:18:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] It's Summertime In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201007211819.00866.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday, July 21, 2010 04:38:22 pm Stuart Thompson wrote: > It's summertime & this list has been somewhat dormant. > > Everybody must be out enjoying their cars? > > I get more looks in my TR6 than any other car I've ever driven. > > I think I'll keep it! Stuart, Well I have been a bit dormant working on my 6 project. I am driving my 3 and 4 but the work on the 6 has stopped until at least this weekend. Completion this summer is not looking too good! Bob From apackard68 at att.net Wed Jul 21 18:35:31 2010 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 21 Jul 2010 17:35:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Symmetry white walls (soon to be red) Message-ID: <939287.91413.qm@web83812.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hello list: Since I now have specific autocross wheels and tires for those playtime Sundays, I don't feel the need to have performance tires for every day. Currently I have Yokohama AVS DBII 205/65/15 tires that are 8 or 9 years old by now. For my change, I purchased the Michelin Symmetry 205/70/15 (stock size) whitewall set up for every day. After reading the redline painting project outlined in 6-pack magazine and in the forums, I'm ready to tackle the project. The tires just arrived from Tire Rack at the tire installer, so hopefully I can get them installed on Friday and have a nice little whitewall painting project this weekend. I continue to move towards the stock/vintage look on the outside with fun performance things on the inside. Any suggestions/words of caution for this little project are welcome. Andy CD6746L HVDA, etc From aktifspeed at gmail.com Thu Jul 22 13:57:11 2010 From: aktifspeed at gmail.com (Erik Sulcs) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:57:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... Message-ID: Has anyone tried insuring their classic car with a classic car insurance carrier, (Hagerty, Heacock, JC Taylor, etc...) having a spouse and only one daily driver car that you both shared? My TR6 lives in a locked storage garage, never sees winter, is pretty well babied. I don't use it as a daily driver at all, (or even as a back-up driver as the storage garage is too far away to be convenient) yet all of the insurance companies I've spoken to require that my spouse and I *each* have a daily driver car. This makes no sense to me... I'm sure one of you insurance savvy folks out there have the answer to that. But in the meantime, do any of you have a similar car-usage setup like mine and have classic car insurance? If so, who did you use? I dread taking out the TR without agreed coverage. The thought of someone totalling it is bad enough without thinking I'll only get pennies on the dollar from the existing insurance co. instead of what it's really worth if the unthinkable happens... Thanks for the input... Erik S. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jul 22 15:39:46 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:39:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I had the same conversation with Haggerty but our situation is a little different. We're both retired and don't need two cars but they wouldn't budge on their policy of two licensed drivers = 2 cars plus the classic car. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Erik Sulcs" Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:57 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... > Has anyone tried insuring their classic car with a classic car insurance > carrier, (Hagerty, Heacock, JC Taylor, etc...) having a spouse and only > one > daily driver car that you both shared? My TR6 lives in a locked storage > garage, never sees winter, is pretty well babied. I don't use it as a > daily > driver at all, (or even as a back-up driver as the storage garage is too > far > away to be convenient) yet all of the insurance companies I've spoken to > require that my spouse and I *each* have a daily driver car. This makes > no > sense to me... I'm sure one of you insurance savvy folks out there have > the > answer to that. But in the meantime, do any of you have a similar > car-usage > setup like mine and have classic car insurance? If so, who did you use? > I > dread taking out the TR without agreed coverage. The thought of someone > totalling it is bad enough without thinking I'll only get pennies on the > dollar from the existing insurance co. instead of what it's really worth > if > the unthinkable happens... > > Thanks for the input... > > Erik S. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Thu Jul 22 15:39:00 2010 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Bob McBride) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:39:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <82A653DEF88840F4A5853E467DD487B6@BobPC> I have my 76 TR6 and 95 Jaguar with Hagerty the Jag they would not insure when my wife's daily driver was older than the Jag. But once I got her the 2007 Focus they where happy to insure the Jag. Costs me around 10 dollars a mile to have them insured. And $4.50 a mile for plates on the Jag.. But only $1.00 a mile for the TR6 plates... -------------------------------------------------- From: "Erik Sulcs" Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:57 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... > Has anyone tried insuring their classic car with a classic car insurance > carrier, (Hagerty, Heacock, JC Taylor, etc...) having a spouse and only > one > daily driver car that you both shared? My TR6 lives in a locked storage > garage, never sees winter, is pretty well babied. I don't use it as a > daily > driver at all, (or even as a back-up driver as the storage garage is too > far > away to be convenient) yet all of the insurance companies I've spoken to > require that my spouse and I *each* have a daily driver car. This makes > no > sense to me... I'm sure one of you insurance savvy folks out there have > the > answer to that. But in the meantime, do any of you have a similar > car-usage > setup like mine and have classic car insurance? If so, who did you use? > I > dread taking out the TR without agreed coverage. The thought of someone > totalling it is bad enough without thinking I'll only get pennies on the > dollar from the existing insurance co. instead of what it's really worth > if > the unthinkable happens... > > Thanks for the input... > > Erik S. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rmcbride at mi.rr.com From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Thu Jul 22 15:58:57 2010 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 17:58:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Speedo (the gauge, not the swimsuit) Message-ID: <76BAD7B0-E011-4F51-974A-0B1361544454@nc.rr.com> Can anybody with first-hand knowledge recommend a speedometer rebuilder who's reliable and reasonably quick? (Adding reasonably priced, as well, would be asking for too much, I guess.) I taped a picture of a speedo over the hole, so I don't have to watch wires sparking while I drive. Doug Morris, NC From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Thu Jul 22 16:12:55 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 15:12:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Painting whitewalls red Message-ID: <577193.79343.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Andy: Cool! I want to hear all about this project when you're done. I could have the only on-car redlines in my club. Bruce Simms From forzion at maine.rr.com Thu Jul 22 17:27:25 2010 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:27:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4C48D3DD.2020803@maine.rr.com> Erik; You've got a couple of questions working there. On one of your points, I went to my local body shop that specializes in classic car restorations and got him to do a full-up appraisal. Cost me a bit for the appraisal but it was worth it. I took the appraisal to my local State Farm office and they insured it for the full value of the appraisal, no questions asked. And, as an Antique Car, the insurance is pretty modest and, here in Maine, I need no annual inspections.. Dave On 7/22/2010 5:39 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > I had the same conversation with Haggerty but our situation is a > little different. We're both retired and don't need two cars but they > wouldn't budge on their policy of two licensed drivers = 2 cars plus > the classic car. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Erik Sulcs" > Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 3:57 PM > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... > >> Has anyone tried insuring their classic car with a classic car insurance >> carrier, (Hagerty, Heacock, JC Taylor, etc...) having a spouse and >> only one >> daily driver car that you both shared? My TR6 lives in a locked storage >> garage, never sees winter, is pretty well babied. I don't use it as >> a daily >> driver at all, (or even as a back-up driver as the storage garage is >> too far >> away to be convenient) yet all of the insurance companies I've spoken to >> require that my spouse and I *each* have a daily driver car. This >> makes no >> sense to me... I'm sure one of you insurance savvy folks out there >> have the >> answer to that. But in the meantime, do any of you have a similar >> car-usage >> setup like mine and have classic car insurance? If so, who did you >> use? I >> dread taking out the TR without agreed coverage. The thought of someone >> totalling it is bad enough without thinking I'll only get pennies on the >> dollar from the existing insurance co. instead of what it's really >> worth if >> the unthinkable happens... >> >> Thanks for the input... >> >> Erik S. >> _______________________________________________ >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe/Manage: >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion at maine.rr.com > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.851 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/3021 - Release Date: 07/22/10 02:36:00 From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jul 22 17:33:55 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 19:33:55 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Speedo (the gauge, not the swimsuit) In-Reply-To: <76BAD7B0-E011-4F51-974A-0B1361544454@nc.rr.com> References: <76BAD7B0-E011-4F51-974A-0B1361544454@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: <8CF27B5299114335B95C8AD1E0D783A6@BobPC> A bunch of 6-Pack Forum www.6-pack.org guys are using West Valley Instruments in Calif. I had them rebuild my speedo two years ago and my tach a year ago. Check out http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm to get the contact info and what you need to do before sending it out. Make sure you send you cable along with the speedo as Morris will rebuild it to the correct specs. He'll quote you a price and turn around time over the phone and then call when he gets the gauge to confirm everything. He turned mine around in about 10 days: speed calibrated, new odometer gearing and rebuilt cable. Paul Rego had them calibrate all of his gauges, convert his tach to electronic and documented it here: http://www.74tr6.com/gauges1.htm All they do are British gauges. And.....very reasonably priced. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Douglas Morris" Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 5:58 PM To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Speedo (the gauge, not the swimsuit) > Can anybody with first-hand knowledge recommend a speedometer rebuilder > who's > reliable and reasonably quick? > (Adding reasonably priced, as well, would be asking for too much, I > guess.) > I taped a picture of a speedo over the hole, so I don't have to watch > wires > sparking while I drive. > > Doug Morris, NC From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Thu Jul 22 21:58:54 2010 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Thu, 22 Jul 2010 23:58:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator Replacement/Rebuild Option Message-ID: Me ol' -6's alternator froze-up today, so reckon I need a new electricity-making thingy. I've been going over old recommendations on replacements, which seem to focus on the Bosch alt from a '76 Rabbit. Before I go all internet-searchy on this unit, is there any other plug'n play option  one that comes with a pulley & fan or that can use a TR-6 pulley & fan? Doug Morris, NC From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jul 23 04:52:51 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 06:52:51 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator Replacement/Rebuild Option In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: The Delco unit is a very popular replacement choice. I did mine about 6 years ago http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Alternator_Conversion_1.htm Not 100% plug & play, but close. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Douglas Morris" Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 11:58 PM To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Alternator Replacement/Rebuild Option > Me ol' -6's alternator froze-up today, so reckon I need a new > electricity-making thingy. > I've been going over old recommendations on replacements, which seem to > focus > on the Bosch alt from a '76 Rabbit. > Before I go all internet-searchy on this unit, is there any other plug'n > play > option  one that comes with a pulley & fan or that can use a TR-6 pulley > & > fan? > > Doug Morris, NC > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From davgil at aol.com Fri Jul 23 06:56:09 2010 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 08:56:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator Replacement/Rebuild Option In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCF87D8E0DB8B1-2210-13107@webmail-m026.sysops.aol.com> Douglas, Before I joined this list a number of years ago, I didn't know any better so I went to a local auto parts store and asked for an alternator for a 1976 TR6. They had one on the shelf and it was an absolute bolt in replacement. I didn't even have to change the pulley. It has been working fine now for at least the last 15 years. You may try this route before trying some of the more esoteric schemes. David Gill 1976 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: Douglas Morris To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, Jul 22, 2010 11:58 pm Subject: [6pack] Alternator Replacement/Rebuild Option Me ol' -6's alternator froze-up today, so reckon I need a new lectricity-making thingy. 've been going over old recommendations on replacements, which seem to focus n the Bosch alt from a '76 Rabbit. efore I go all internet-searchy on this unit, is there any other plug'n play ption  one that comes with a pulley & fan or that can use a TR-6 pulley & an? Doug Morris, NC ______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/davgil at aol.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jul 23 07:08:17 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 09:08:17 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Speedo (the gauge, not the swimsuit) In-Reply-To: <76BAD7B0-E011-4F51-974A-0B1361544454@nc.rr.com> References: <76BAD7B0-E011-4F51-974A-0B1361544454@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 22 Jul 2010, Douglas Morris wrote: > Can anybody with first-hand knowledge recommend a speedometer rebuilder who's > reliable and reasonably quick? www.gaugeguys.com I mailed them a tach using USPS and they called me either the next day or the day after that and I had my tach back less than 7 days total turnaround. That was somewhat recently, 2005, I think. > (Adding reasonably priced, as well, would be asking for too much, I guess.) You wouldn't be a Triumph owner if you didn't have that qualifier in there. ;-) > I taped a picture of a speedo over the hole, so I don't have to watch wires > sparking while I drive. Awesome - I chucked when I read that. But but some breather holes in the picture so the smoke can get out when necessary. > Doug Morris, NC regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From dctr6 at optonline.net Fri Jul 23 08:36:04 2010 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 10:36:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance Message-ID: <000301cb2a74$616987b0$243c9710$@net> Erik wrote: >Has anyone tried insuring their classic car with a classic car insurance carrier, (Hagerty, Heacock, JC >Taylor, etc...) having a spouse and only one daily driver car that you both shared? Interesting. I've had Hagerty insurance for years and I never remember them asking me if I was married and/or if my wife had her own daily driver (the answer in both cases is yes). Marital status may well be on the application form but I never supplied any information about "her" car or "her" insurance. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U From brian at asmoothmove.biz Fri Jul 23 08:44:36 2010 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 09:44:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Painting whitewalls red In-Reply-To: <577193.79343.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <577193.79343.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006601cb2a75$9340aa60$b9c1ff20$@biz> I hope this works out as I was one of the fools to spend probably around $1,000 on a set of five red-lines a few years ago. For what? For a skinny French tire with marginal grip. Boy, if my wife ever found out... Brian J. Alwin 1972 TR6 CC79085 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 5:13 PM To: apackard68 at att.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Painting whitewalls red Andy: Cool! I want to hear all about this project when you're done. I could have the only on-car redlines in my club. Bruce Simms _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/brian at asmoothmove.biz From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Fri Jul 23 08:52:46 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 07:52:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Alternator Replacement Message-ID: <752887.43276.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> My 55 amp Bosch was a drop-in except for needing a metric nut. Alternator Express in SC gave a good price. Dunno if he's still around. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From TR6UO at aol.com Fri Jul 23 10:07:34 2010 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 12:07:34 EDT Subject: [6pack] Leaking Stromberg Message-ID: <102991.6955cb1b.397b1846@aol.com> I smelled gas at startup yesterday and traced it to the forward Stromberg. It appears to be coming from the bottom. Is that an O-ring? The last carb I repaired was on a 4A some years ago. What do I need to do here? Does the carb need to come off or can this be repaired in place? Thanks for any help!! Steve '72 TR6 From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Jul 23 14:36:06 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 13:36:06 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Leaking Stromberg References: <102991.6955cb1b.397b1846@aol.com> Message-ID: <001001cb2aa6$acfed270$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Steve, I repaired in place. After removing the screws some gentle tapping was necessary to drop the float chamber. I used #12 O-Ring (13/16" OD - 5/8" ID) found at Home Depot. I don't know the rubber composition of these but they have been fine, no leaks, for almost 3 years. Original float chamber gasket did not leak either. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, July 23, 2010 9:07 AM Subject: [6pack] Leaking Stromberg > I smelled gas at startup yesterday and traced it to the forward Stromberg. > It appears to be coming from the bottom. Is that an O-ring? The last carb I > repaired was on a 4A some years ago. > > What do I need to do here? Does the carb need to come off or can this be > repaired in place? > > Thanks for any help!! > > Steve > '72 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14880 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14880 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com Fri Jul 23 12:00:04 2010 From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com (Dave Waldorf) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 14:00:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 2010 TRials Regalia Deadline 8/17/10 Message-ID: <63D8D2D81F084ADDADC9C56406ABC93D@DavePC> The response to the regalia offered for the 2010 TRials has been wonderful. The polo shirts, hats, and fleeces have been very well received. Thanks to all for your orders! Please note: The deadline to order regalia items for the TRials is August 17. Any order received after that date will be held until the TRials. If there is enough interest we may add an order for a second batch of regalia, with a small charge per item for postage (likely $6). People with late orders will be given the option of adding postage to their order for home delivery. If there isn't enough interest late orders will be refunded. "Enough interest" in this case is at least 10 orders for a given item, so it's better safe than sorry to order yours now! --Dave Waldorf, Chm. From TR6UO at aol.com Fri Jul 23 13:01:13 2010 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 15:01:13 EDT Subject: [6pack] Leaking Stromberg Message-ID: <4e9b8.9f931cb.397b40f9@aol.com> Al, Stuart, Bob, David, Bob D, Bob, Gentlemen, My sincere thanks for the input. I'm glad it's such a simple fix. Regards, Steve From ambritts at bellsouth.net Fri Jul 23 18:47:57 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Fri, 23 Jul 2010 20:47:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Free rotating fan (red) Message-ID: Tomorrow morning I will be pulling the radiator and all associated items for the repair of my "free flying" fan. As some of you may remember, the locating pins that lock the fan extension (red fan) to the crank pulley on my TR6 backed out (2x) causing the fan to free spin and then the bolt that holds the extension to the crank back out and ultimately get ripped out of the crank. Well I now have all the replacement parts and have a few questions that are not listed in the Bentley Manual. a.. Is the torque on the bolt 10-14 lbs? b.. Do the locating pins go in the crank pulley or the extension, or does it not matter? c.. If the crank pulley then does it need to be removed to insert the pins? d.. Should they be secured with thread lock? (even though there are no threads) Or anything else I should be aware of. Thanks, Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59 TR3A From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Sun Jul 25 14:13:47 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Sun, 25 Jul 2010 14:13:47 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Stags at the Kastner Cup Races in Topeka Kansas USA August 19-22 Message-ID: <4C4C9AFB.8050905@triumphstagclub.org> Hi All, I am wondering how many folks are going to the Friends of Triumph Kastner Cup Races in Topeka Kansas August 19-22 ( featured race info http://www.heartlandvintageracing.com/) where Triumph is the featured Marque? This is a convenient day's drive from a lot of places in the Central USA, and across a weekend too! I'd like to see a strong showing of ALL Triumphs including Triumph Stags show up in the Heartland as there has not been a good gathering of "the herd" in several years now, certainly not one exceeding a count close to 24 Stags !! It is well past the time for new things to happen in the long term support and enjoyment of our cars. There are easily over 100 Stags within a days drive of Topeka (not to mention many hundreds of other Triumphs) ... so it would be a very convenient gathering of the herd, we could coordinate a spot in the race paddocks reserved just for Triumph Stags smack dab in the middle of FoT, maybe have Uncle Jack as the center piece with all the TTA stickers ?? How appropriate!!! If you are planning on attending, want to talk Triumphs, Triumph Stags, coordinating new Triumph Stag support in North America including herding options, please contact me off list and do actively continue this discussion on the Forums! Cheers! -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From jmitch at snet.net Mon Jul 26 06:56:33 2010 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 08:56:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Steering wheel restoration-non LBC Message-ID: <4C4D8601.90104@snet.net> I have a friend looking for a company that does steering wheel restorations for an older Firebird. Does anyone have a recommendation? Thanks John Mitchell 76TR6 72Stag From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Mon Jul 26 07:20:49 2010 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:20:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Steering wheel restoration-non LBC In-Reply-To: <4C4D8601.90104@snet.net> References: <4C4D8601.90104@snet.net> Message-ID: <0F254A80-987A-4B4B-AE5F-7883CB0A914D@yahoo.com> Yeah look on eBay or craigslist for a spitfire wheel...they're the same. Unless of course it's a 69 wheel. You might find the answer on the 6-pack site as well www.6-pack.org Regards Todd Sent from my iPhone On Jul 26, 2010, at 8:56 AM, John Mitchell wrote: > I have a friend looking for a company that does steering wheel restorations for an older Firebird. Does anyone have a recommendation? Thanks John Mitchell 76TR6 72Stag > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/red_tr250 at yahoo.com From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Mon Jul 26 07:22:18 2010 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 09:22:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Steering wheel restoration-non LBC In-Reply-To: <4C4D8601.90104@snet.net> References: <4C4D8601.90104@snet.net> Message-ID: Oh crap you're saying firebird. Is it wrapped in leather? Try someone that works with horses. Saddle type places Todd Sent from my iPhone On Jul 26, 2010, at 8:56 AM, John Mitchell wrote: > I have a friend looking for a company that does steering wheel restorations for an older Firebird. Does anyone have a recommendation? Thanks John Mitchell 76TR6 72Stag > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/red_tr250 at yahoo.com From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Jul 26 13:59:50 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 15:59:50 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Update on TriumphBob Message-ID: <1b49af.3639cd16.397f4331@aol.com> Hi Everyone, Below is a note from Ava Bob's wife. Bob is going thru the final phase of his treatment for leukemia at the Cleveland Clinic. Bob tolerated the first phase rather well and even had a period of time in June and early July that he could get back to a somewhat normal pace considering the circumstances. He even grew a little head of hair or fuss one might call it. He and Ava were able to attend the TRA National Meeting with Beverly and I and just like old times we had a blast. We were able to take the 62 TR4 for Laps around Mid-Ohio Race Track and I let Bob drive since he had not been behind the wheel of a Triumph for some time. This was a decision I soon came to regret because it was all I could do to hang on and not fly out of the car. I dang new tore the "OH Crap Bar" out of the dash. Bob has No Fear and likes to go fast. Early on we were calling for a black flag to the TR3 in front of us for blocking but since there was a no passing rule in effect we just had to hang back a bit then hurry up to catch up. Great fun. Bob really enjoyed your e-mails the during the first phase so let's keep his spirits up as best we can. He has a good chance to survive all of this. His email is _TriumphBob at aol.com_ (mailto:TriumphBob at aol.com) I will post an address for cards as soon has I get one. Best Regards, Darrell Bob entered the clinic on Wednesday, July 21st and is currently going through his last (third) day of Chemo. He has done very well through the first 2 days, but I'm sure he will appreciate his 'day off' tomorrow (Sunday) as the side effects are compounded. On Monday, Tues, Wed & Thursday Bob will get two rounds each day (6 a.m. & 10 a.m.) of full body irradiation. As long as he is up to it and steady on his feet I will be able to walk him down for those 30 minutes treatments so he'll get to be off this floor.....something that will not happen again until his eventual release (some 60 days down the road.....or less - we pray). The use of a laptop computer has made it much easier to communicate while we are in here (I'm living at the hospital while mom is still here) so please send your Emails, pics and the like to me to share with Bob as you can. From lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net Mon Jul 26 19:31:41 2010 From: lgriffinnc at bellsouth.net (LARRY C GRIFFIN) Date: Mon, 26 Jul 2010 21:31:41 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Raleigh NC Classic Car Show 7/31/10 Message-ID: I learned of this show through a friend that works with the realty company that developed North Hills. The show is open to all makes of classic cars and has no entry fee. I was specifically asked to share the news with all my Triumph friends. If anyone wants to attend, I'd love to get a contingent of Triumphs together. No financial interest, etc.. Show information follows below. Thanks, Larry Come join us for the 1st Annual Bruegger's North Hills Classic Car Show taking place on July 31st 2010 from 9:00 AM- 3:00 PM. The parking lot adjacent to Bruegger's North Hills will be ground zero for some of the best Classic Cars in the city. Admission is free and any Classic Car owner is welcome to show off their ride at no charge (tell your Classic Car friends). Awards will be given in several "Best of" categories and a DJ will be on site spinning favorite songs from the 60's and 70's. Bring the family for a day of fun and great cars. For more information call Bruegger's North Hills at (919) 781-5733. See you there. http://www.brueggersnorthhills.com/ _________________ From wensley_tr at comcast.net Tue Jul 27 14:01:34 2010 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 27 Jul 2010 16:01:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Question In-Reply-To: <1b49af.3639cd16.397f4331@aol.com> References: <1b49af.3639cd16.397f4331@aol.com> Message-ID: <001801cb2dc6$83dc2b90$8b9482b0$@net> Any of you know of a TR6, that was driving along on the south bound Crestwood Blvd in Frederick, MD around 7AM Tuesday morning. Craig From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Wed Jul 28 12:52:02 2010 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 14:52:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential Health Metrics Message-ID: <174F7F864E1044B4B7B1988FC58D8F62@JaneShawPC> How do I check for pinion lash? What's acceptable? And what do I do about excessive lash? I know nothing about diffys except that mine makes noise. Jerry '74 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jul 28 13:24:11 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 15:24:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Differential Health Metrics In-Reply-To: <174F7F864E1044B4B7B1988FC58D8F62@JaneShawPC> References: <174F7F864E1044B4B7B1988FC58D8F62@JaneShawPC> Message-ID: Hi, The book has a set of procedures that you can use to measure the various end-float and clearances in your diff. That said there's only a few characteristics of the diff that can give you noise. Most obvious is lack of fluid. Don't laugh. I taken diffs out of parts cars that we totally empty of gear fluid. Next is poor bearing preload, usually too tight. The pinion bearings, particularly the pinion head bearing can howl. If they overheat the races can gall and then they make a lot of noise. But this sort of thing usually shows up right after a rebuild or right after a "sharp" grease monkey decides that the pinion nut needs to be cranked down good and tight to fix things and the bearing preload goes to hell when the collapsable spacer (not available in all models!!) collapses. The diff carrier bearings can also gall, spin and otherwise make noise. There's also the loose ring gear, but that's more of a rattle unless a bolt backs out far enough to lock the diff at which time it becomes a BANG and then there's no differential action 'till you replace the darn thing. Now, there's settings for the pinion head height which controls the mesh with the ring gear but that shouldn't change once the diff is set up unless there's a major problem and there are side-to-side shims so you can center the carrier, but those dimensions shouldn't change under normal ops. There's also the spherical shims for the sun/planet gears but these only seem to control backlash within the differential... TR6 diffs are all sorts of fun!! I also probably didn't answer your question. :-) regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From TR250Driver at aol.com Wed Jul 28 18:04:07 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Wed, 28 Jul 2010 20:04:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Bob Palmer's address Message-ID: <6b167.711d1223.39821f77@aol.com> If you would like to send cards, the address is (once again): The Cleveland Clinic Attn: Bob Palmer G110-5 or Attn: Betty Klecka H80-29 9500 Euclid Ave. Cleveland, OH 44195 From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Thu Jul 29 08:55:34 2010 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Thu, 29 Jul 2010 10:55:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential Health Metrics In-Reply-To: References: <174F7F864E1044B4B7B1988FC58D8F62@JaneShawPC> Message-ID: Hi Robert My mechanic friend says that if you jack up the car, thus immobilizing one drive axle, the free wheel should not have much play if you rock it back and forth before meeting with turning resistance. Mine has almost 3/4" at the tire stem circumference. He calls it pinion lash and says it's way too much. Thanks Jerry -------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert M. Lang" Sent: Wednesday, July 28, 2010 3:24 PM To: "Jerry C Shaw" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Health Metrics > Hi, > > The book has a set of procedures that you can use to measure the various > end-float and clearances in your diff. That said there's only a few > characteristics of the diff that can give you noise. > > Most obvious is lack of fluid. Don't laugh. I taken diffs out of parts > cars that we totally empty of gear fluid. > > Next is poor bearing preload, usually too tight. The pinion bearings, > particularly the pinion head bearing can howl. If they overheat the races > can gall and then they make a lot of noise. But this sort of thing usually > shows up right after a rebuild or right after a "sharp" grease monkey > decides that the pinion nut needs to be cranked down good and tight to fix > things and the bearing preload goes to hell when the collapsable spacer > (not available in all models!!) collapses. > > The diff carrier bearings can also gall, spin and otherwise make noise. > > There's also the loose ring gear, but that's more of a rattle unless a > bolt backs out far enough to lock the diff at which time it becomes a BANG > and then there's no differential action 'till you replace the darn thing. > > Now, there's settings for the pinion head height which controls the mesh > with the ring gear but that shouldn't change once the diff is set up > unless there's a major problem and there are side-to-side shims so you can > center the carrier, but those dimensions shouldn't change under normal > ops. There's also the spherical shims for the sun/planet gears but these > only seem to control backlash within the differential... > > TR6 diffs are all sorts of fun!! > > I also probably didn't answer your question. :-) > > regards, > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > 2010 NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jul 30 00:53:52 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 06:53:52 GMT Subject: [6pack] Differential Health Metrics Message-ID: Jerry---Your mechanic could be right in his assessment, but there are several more "parts" that could cause the lay you now see when rocking the wheel. Among these would be wear in the pin thru the two planet gears, the sun gears, and the shims and cup washers that set the lash. Also to be considered would be any wear in the axle splines, u-joints, and if you have wire wheels, these splines also. Most likely would be the stacked tolerances from all of these parts, working together. If you haven't already done so, check these outside the diff case parts, by holding one end of the line and turning the other. To see what's going on inside the diff, it's best to remove it and look in thru the back plate. Dick (Original post removed for exceeding the limit) From wayne at motorcarriage.com Fri Jul 30 09:58:21 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Fri, 30 Jul 2010 11:58:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... In-Reply-To: <4C48D3DD.2020803@maine.rr.com> References: <4C48D3DD.2020803@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: Hi Folks, My situation is a little different because I'm the only licensed Driver in our Household. My wife had to give up her BMW 2002 back in 1994 after becoming legally blind. My Insurance Agent who handles my Home, my Conversion Van and my TR6 got me a deal for those 2 Cars with only Liability 100/500K for $762.00 Annually through Safety Insurance Co. He added my 65 Rolls Royce Silver Cloud III through Haggerty with the typical Fair Market Value clause for an additional $332.00 and I don't have to run it with Antique/Collector Plates on it. Same went for my 65 Land Rover 109 for an extra $240.00 with just liability. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 69 Spit 75 TR6 -------------------------------------------------- From: "David Friedlander" Sent: Thursday, July 22, 2010 7:27 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Classic Insurance.... > Erik; > > You've got a couple of questions working there. On one of your points, I > went to my local body shop that specializes in classic car restorations > and got him to do a full-up appraisal. Cost me a bit for the appraisal > but it was worth it. I took the appraisal to my local State Farm office > and they insured it for the full value of the appraisal, no questions > asked. And, as an Antique Car, the insurance is pretty modest and, here > in Maine, I need no annual inspections.. > > Dave From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jul 31 17:41:17 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 19:41:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Mystery part Message-ID: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hi, I posted this query to the 6-pack forum but no clear answers yet. While unpacking the hardware for the trunk (boot), I came across a part that I cannot figure out where it goes. It is a thick shim of sorts. A 1.5 x 1.5 inch square with a "U" cut out of the middle. Thickness is about 1/8 inch. I posted a pic on the forum. Here is the link: http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/37681/2163415140084399925S600x600Q85.jpg I have since installed the trunk lid complete with the hook catch and lock assembly and the stay. All work as expected. Lock opens and closes with ease and fit and alignment is good. Stay operates as expected. During the tear down process, I made sure when taking apart something that all associated hardware was bagged and label. I am sure it goes with the boot but where? I have looked at the Bentley manual, TRF on-line, as well as Moss. Cannot find the part. I took a look at my "before" photos of the trunk area but I cannot see the part. It looks just like my recent installation but a bit dirtier. Anyone performing a restoration with the boot hardware available that could check if they have this part? This is a late 72. Thanks, Bob From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Jul 31 18:33:15 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 17:33:15 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Mystery part In-Reply-To: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Looks like a drum brake wheel cylinder shim ... except those are more rectangular than square ... > > >I posted this query to the 6-pack forum but no clear answers yet. > >While unpacking the hardware for the trunk (boot), I came across a part that I >cannot figure out where it goes. > >It is a thick shim of sorts. A 1.5 x 1.5 inch square with a "U" cut out of the >middle. Thickness is about 1/8 inch. -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh anabil007 at comcast.net Wallace, CA From bratt at sasktel.net Sat Jul 31 19:45:44 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 19:45:44 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Mystery part References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <004601cb311b$41a59600$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Bob: That is a retaining clip. It is used to hold something round in place, which is inserted through a hole, and the clip fits in a pair of grooves to hold it against the sheet metal. I might make a wild guess at it being a trunk lock retainer clip. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 1970 TR6 with no motor or transmission (and is for sale) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 5:41 PM Subject: [6pack] Mystery part > Hi, > > I posted this query to the 6-pack forum but no clear answers yet. > > While unpacking the hardware for the trunk (boot), I came across a part > that I > cannot figure out where it goes. > > It is a thick shim of sorts. A 1.5 x 1.5 inch square with a "U" cut out of > the > middle. Thickness is about 1/8 inch. > > I posted a pic on the forum. Here is the link: > > http://inlinethumb50.webshots.com/37681/2163415140084399925S600x600Q85.jpg > > I have since installed the trunk lid complete with the hook catch and lock > assembly and the stay. All work as expected. Lock opens and closes with > ease > and fit and alignment is good. Stay operates as expected. > > During the tear down process, I made sure when taking apart something that > all > associated hardware was bagged and label. I am sure it goes with the boot > but > where? > > I have looked at the Bentley manual, TRF on-line, as well as Moss. Cannot > find > the part. > > I took a look at my "before" photos of the trunk area but I cannot see the > part. It looks just like my recent installation but a bit dirtier. > > Anyone performing a restoration with the boot hardware available that > could > check if they have this part? > > This is a late 72. > > Thanks, > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net From bratt at sasktel.net Sat Jul 31 20:12:19 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:12:19 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Mystery part References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <000601cb311e$f84b85b0$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Bill: I do not think so. This appears to be formed to hold something under tension. I would guess it is a retaining clip. The shape of the opening hints that it is used to hold something round in place. That something is inserted through a hole, and the clip possibly fits into a pair of grooves to hold it against the sheet metal around the hole.. I might make a wild guess at it being a lock retainer clip. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 1970 TR6 with no motor or transmission (and is for sale) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill" To: "Bob" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 6:33 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Mystery part > Looks like a drum brake wheel cylinder shim ... except those are more > rectangular than square ... > > > >> >> >>I posted this query to the 6-pack forum but no clear answers yet. >> >>While unpacking the hardware for the trunk (boot), I came across a part >>that I >>cannot figure out where it goes. >> >>It is a thick shim of sorts. A 1.5 x 1.5 inch square with a "U" cut out of >>the >>middle. Thickness is about 1/8 inch. > > -- > "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake > it." - Henry Ford > Bill Pugh > anabil007 at comcast.net > Wallace, CA > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/bratt at sasktel.net From mdporter at dfn.com Sat Jul 31 20:50:24 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 20:50:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Mystery part In-Reply-To: <004601cb311b$41a59600$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <004601cb311b$41a59600$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Message-ID: <4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com> ed wrote: > Bob: > > That is a retaining clip. It is used to hold something round in > place, which is inserted through a hole, and the clip fits in a pair > of grooves to hold it against the sheet metal. I might make a wild > guess at it being a trunk lock retainer clip. > Ed, how well would it work as a spring clip if it were 1/8" thick, as Bob says? Most spring retainer clips of the type you describe that I've seen are nominally around 1/32" thick, and typically have the ears bent at the bottom to hold the clip in place. Looks a lot more like some sort of suspension alignment shim, given the shape and the thickness. Doesn't mean that it couldn't be some sort of spacer to enable the use of a lock different from the original production design because of purchasing problems during production, but, a retaining clip it's not, simply because, at that thickness, the amount of force required to get it to deform during installation would make it virtually useless. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Jul 31 21:01:40 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 23:01:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Mystery part In-Reply-To: <4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com> References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net><004601cb311b$41a59600$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> <4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com> Message-ID: <8CCFF3CFF5B3DF7-94C-104B2@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com> sounds familiar....front suspension shims....TR4A/TR250/TR6 ??? -----Original Message----- From: Michael Porter To: ed Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Jul 31, 2010 9:50 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Mystery part ed wrote: > Bob: > > That is a retaining clip. It is used to hold something round in > place, which is inserted through a hole, and the clip fits in a pair > of grooves to hold it against the sheet metal. I might make a wild > guess at it being a trunk lock retainer clip. > Ed, how well would it work as a spring clip if it were 1/8" thick, as Bob says? Most spring retainer clips of the type you describe that I've seen are nominally around 1/32" thick, and typically have the ears bent at the bottom to hold the clip in place. Looks a lot more like some sort of suspension alignment shim, given the shape and the thickness. Doesn't mean that it couldn't be some sort of spacer to enable the use of a lock different from the original production design because of purchasing problems during production, but, a retaining clip it's not, simply because, at that thickness, the amount of force required to get it to deform during installation would make it virtually useless. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From bratt at sasktel.net Sat Jul 31 21:58:08 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Sat, 31 Jul 2010 21:58:08 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Mystery part References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <004601cb311b$41a59600$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> <4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com> Message-ID: <007201cb312d$c0c13d10$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Michael: > Ed, how well would it work as a spring clip if it were 1/8" thick, as Bob > says? Most spring retainer clips of the type you describe that I've seen > are nominally around 1/32" thick, and typically have the ears bent at the > bottom to hold the clip in place. > It was just a guess. From the information given, it was stated to be "ABOUT 1/8 inch ", so I safely assumed within the given parameters that it could be much thinner. I did not go for the spacer option because of the formed shape of it. It appears to be made to arch over something, whereas spacers usually have a flat bearing surface. I have never seen a part like the one shown. It could very well be a part from some other make and model, and not a TR6 part at all. Maybe the parts packer just had it laying around and disposed of it by stuffing it in Bob's parts bag. The closest part that I have seen on some TR6 models is a "open sided washer" spacer at the top rear of each chassis side rail.. It is made of aluminum, and the purpose of it appears to be there to provide Galvanic action necessary for establishing corosion between the steel body and the steel chassis rail. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 1970 TR6 without motor or transmission (and is for sale). ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Porter" To: "ed" Cc: "Bob" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, July 31, 2010 8:50 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Mystery part