From tr250driver at aol.com Fri Jan 1 09:15:45 2010 From: tr250driver at aol.com (tr250driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 11:15:45 EST Subject: [6pack] Hello Message-ID: <1a94.47fcaa1.386f79b1@aol.com> In a message dated 12/31/2009 7:02:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: "Which tires should I use?" Hey Robert, I prefer Michelin Redlines! I have one of the last sets sold by Coker to go on my TR250 which will be freshly restored this spring. Great Tire! As originally fitted to the Triumph TR6. Nice grip, works good in the rain and a serious autocrosser's tire of choice. Ha! Merry New Year, Darrell From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Fri Jan 1 10:28:25 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 10:28:25 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Hello In-Reply-To: <1a94.47fcaa1.386f79b1@aol.com> References: <1a94.47fcaa1.386f79b1@aol.com> Message-ID: <003101ca8b07$d44e65a0$7ceb30e0$@edu> I use Goodyear Wrangler AT/S 275/65 X 18, 10 ply, at 50psi (they are rated at 80psi max). Oh, wait- that's the truck we pull the horses with.... Kevin CC82183U Kevin McNelis K5KMC 575-571-7326 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tr250driver at aol.com Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 9:16 AM To: trsix74 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Hello In a message dated 12/31/2009 7:02:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: "Which tires should I use?" Hey Robert, I prefer Michelin Redlines! I have one of the last sets sold by Coker to go on my TR250 which will be freshly restored this spring. Great Tire! As originally fitted to the Triumph TR6. Nice grip, works good in the rain and a serious autocrosser's tire of choice. Ha! Merry New Year, Darrell 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jan 1 10:51:10 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 09:51:10 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Hello In-Reply-To: <1E2C2052858A4F2397EF890B6453911C@Robert> References: <1E2C2052858A4F2397EF890B6453911C@Robert> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1328F0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Robert: My thinking is that an awful lot of the traffic has shifted to the forums. I drop in occasionally just to stir the pot. How about another "What oil do I use" or better yet "How can I put the smoke back in my overdrive wiring?". Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 2:53 PM To: '6 Pack list' Subject: [6pack] Hello It's been awfully quiet lately...is there any body out there. Even if it is a discussion about "Which tires should I use?" Just kidding. Well at least Happy New Year Everyone. 3 more months or so until we can get them back on the road! Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Jan 1 12:05:59 2010 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 19:05:59 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Hello Message-ID: <127248244-1262372792-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1713001908-@bda139.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Agree Vance, forums is the place to be - they have pictures! Been checking forums in between fumbles, plenty of traffic there. I just monitor this every now and then when I am home. Lou 72 TR6 ------Original Message------ From: Navarrette, Vance Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: Robert Liam Gannon To: TR-6 list Sent: Jan 1, 2010 11:51 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Hello Robert: My thinking is that an awful lot of the traffic has shifted to the forums. I drop in occasionally just to stir the pot. How about another "What oil do I use" or better yet "How can I put the smoke back in my overdrive wiring?". Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 2:53 PM To: '6 Pack list' Subject: [6pack] Hello It's been awfully quiet lately...is there any body out there. Even if it is a discussion about "Which tires should I use?" Just kidding. Well at least Happy New Year Everyone. 3 more months or so until we can get them back on the road! Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Fri Jan 1 13:42:42 2010 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 15:42:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Learned Wisdom, Part 52847 Message-ID: <904D23A3-7E85-4039-B1F8-86A90914A2D7@nc.rr.com> Y'know when yer all eager to fire-up that engine after reinstallation? Well, spend an extra minute and check to make danged sure that oil filter is on tight. I'm just sayin'. From trsix74 at comcast.net Fri Jan 1 17:38:34 2010 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 19:38:34 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Hello In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1328F0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <1E2C2052858A4F2397EF890B6453911C@Robert> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1328F0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <3433D4AA3AA54CA1BCEC7D6F7FDB4D47@Robert> I have always kept up with the list, even though I sold my TR6 quite a few years ago. Recently the TRA has rolled out a Forum, which is gaining momentum. I agree that being able to upload pictures is a plus. Now that my interests are on my TR3A and my 1949 Mayflower I will be more inclined to spend time on the TRA Forum. This is not exactly a good bye, but merely a "see if when I do". I will always remember the camaraderie of Dick Taylor and so many others. Oh well. Anyone out there remember "Grandma Hoses"? Oh by the way, my first question on the TRA forum was regarding which size tires do people use ;-) 'giggle' From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Fri Jan 1 18:55:59 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Fri, 1 Jan 2010 18:55:59 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Hello In-Reply-To: <3433D4AA3AA54CA1BCEC7D6F7FDB4D47@Robert> References: <1E2C2052858A4F2397EF890B6453911C@Robert> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1328F0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <3433D4AA3AA54CA1BCEC7D6F7FDB4D47@Robert> Message-ID: <000001ca8b4e$bc871600$35954200$@edu> Speaking of oil (not that Vince was), I recently found a Mobile 1 pure synthetic 20/50 that is real high in zinc-phosphorus, in the racing oils at my local NAPA (nfi). It is labeled "not legal for street", but who's to know?? -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 5:39 PM To: 'Navarrette, Vance'; '6 Pack list' Subject: Re: [6pack] Hello I have always kept up with the list, even though I sold my TR6 quite a few years ago. Recently the TRA has rolled out a Forum, which is gaining momentum. I agree that being able to upload pictures is a plus. Now that my interests are on my TR3A and my 1949 Mayflower I will be more inclined to spend time on the TRA Forum. This is not exactly a good bye, but merely a "see if when I do". I will always remember the camaraderie of Dick Taylor and so many others. Oh well. Anyone out there remember "Grandma Hoses"? Oh by the way, my first question on the TRA forum was regarding which size tires do people use ;-) 'giggle' 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Jan 2 00:05:00 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 02 Jan 2010 07:05:00 GMT Subject: [6pack] Hello Message-ID: The "not legal for street use" could've been just a warning that the extra zinc may harm the catalytic converter? I've never seen any synthetic 20W-50 at my local autoparts stores in the L.A. area, but I do use the 20W-50 Valvoline Racing oil that has the extra zinc. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Kevin McNelis Sent: Friday, January 1, 2010 5:55 PM To: 'Robert Liam Gannon', 'Navarrette, Vance', '6 Pack list' Subject: Re: [6pack] Hello Speaking of oil (not that Vince was), I recently found a Mobile 1 pure synthetic 20/50 that is real high in zinc-phosphorus, in the racing oils at my local NAPA (nfi). It is labeled "not legal for street", but who's to know?? -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon Sent: Friday, January 01, 2010 5:39 PM To: 'Navarrette, Vance'; '6 Pack list' Subject: Re: [6pack] Hello I have always kept up with the list, even though I sold my TR6 quite a few years ago. Recently the TRA has rolled out a Forum, which is gaining momentum. I agree that being able to upload pictures is a plus. Now that my interests are on my TR3A and my 1949 Mayflower I will be more inclined to spend time on the TRA Forum. This is not exactly a good bye, but merely a "see if when I do". I will always remember the camaraderie of Dick Taylor and so many others. Oh well. Anyone out there remember "Grandma Hoses"? Oh by the way, my first question on the TRA forum was regarding which size tires do people use ;-) 'giggle' 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Jan 2 09:15:38 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 11:15:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Hello In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1328F0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <1E2C2052858A4F2397EF890B6453911C@Robert> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1328F0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <201001021115.39192.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 01 January 2010 12:51:10 pm Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Robert: > > My thinking is that an awful lot of the traffic has shifted to the forums. > I drop in occasionally just to stir the pot. > > How about another "What oil do I use" or better yet "How can I put the > smoke back in my overdrive wiring?". > > Vance > > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon > Sent: Thursday, December 31, 2009 2:53 PM > To: '6 Pack list' > Subject: [6pack] Hello > > It's been awfully quiet lately...is there any body out there. Even if it is > a discussion about "Which tires should I use?" Just kidding. Well at least > Happy New Year Everyone. 3 more months or so until we can get them back on > the road! > > > > Robert L. Gannon Bob, The oil question comes up often on every list and forum I subscribe. My choice is Brad Penn 20/50 Racing oil. I am able to get it locally. For the 6, I will be using Brad Penn 30W break in oil for the first 500 - 1000 miles. I currently use the 20/50 in my 3 and 4. Bob From 70tr6 at comcast.net Sat Jan 2 11:53:48 2010 From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little) Date: Sat, 2 Jan 2010 13:53:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Hello In-Reply-To: <201001021115.39192.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <1E2C2052858A4F2397EF890B6453911C@Robert> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1328F0D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <201001021115.39192.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I'm a fan of balsamic myself. Add a little garlic and oil and marinate for a couple of hours and voila! Ashford Little 70tr6 at comcast.net On Jan 2, 2010, at 11:15 AM, Bob wrote: > On Friday 01 January 2010 12:51:10 pm Navarrette, Vance wrote: >> Robert: >> >> My thinking is that an awful lot of the traffic has shifted to the forums. >> I drop in occasionally just to stir the pot. >> >> How about another "What oil do I use" or better yet "How can I put the >> smoke back in my overdrive wiring?". >> >> Vance From colinthom at shaw.ca Sun Jan 3 13:51:31 2010 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Sun, 3 Jan 2010 12:51:31 -0800 Subject: [6pack] synthetic fluid clean up Message-ID: <000b01ca8cb6$878f6a60$96ae3f20$@ca> Hi Y'all.I removed my master clutch cylinder today and found black sludge on the cockpit side that I can attribute to worn seals but the paint on the peddle was blistering and easily rubbed off. The worse news is that the paint on the firewall is also blistering a bit, though it doesn't seem as easy to rub off. Any ideas as to how to clean this, if indeed I should even touch it? Is there some magic solution that would neutralize the DOT 5 that has caused this? Oh.and if you're thinking DOT 5 doesn't eat paint, as I did, it would appear we're wrong..it just takes longer. I've had a fussy clutch for many months but life just hasn't offered the time or place to get around to fixing it until now. Too bad, 'cause it's a sunny day and if the master cylinder pushrod and clevis pin weren't too worn to re-use, I'd have it all back on the road for a spin. Thanks for your help. Colin. '75 From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Sun Jan 3 21:43:32 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Sun, 03 Jan 2010 21:43:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Triumph TransAm Stag - Uncle Jack is FOR SALE!! Message-ID: <4B4171F4.7090600@triumphstagclub.org> Yes, the TTA Stag - a.k.a. "uncle jack" is FOR SALE!! Greetings All, The LONG awaited auction for the Triumph Trans AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Triumph Stag known as "uncle jack", is pending activation FOR SALE on eBay!! PLEASE TELL EVERYONE, EMAIL EVERYONE, CALL ANY INTERESTED PARTY!! Email everyone in your clubs!! Remember, this is FOR CHARITY!!! The Auction will become Active on Monday, 4 January 2010 at 1:00 am Pacific Time - about 9 am GMT Go to eBay [www.ebay.com] and enter item Number 250558126708 or click on this link for eBay details http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250558126708 Good Luck, Happy Bidding!! Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Drive Coordinator 2009 210 Bass Circle Lafayette, Colorado 80026-1811 USA 303-665-6040 voice and mailbox #6 303-817-8559 cell 303-665-7820 fax www.triumphtransamerica.org Skype,Twitter,FaceBook: StagByTriumph From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Jan 4 00:15:12 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 04 Jan 2010 07:15:12 GMT Subject: [6pack] synthetic fluid clean up Message-ID: Colin---I sort of doubt that what you are seeing can be helped by anything, tho, once blistering has started, but you can try just a good flush with plain water. Baking soda is also good as a preventative, but messy to look at. Is the "DOT 5" brake fluid purple in color? Otherwise you may have the DOT 5.1, which is the glycol either formula, more clear in color. The MC pushrods aren't being sold separately by most of the part dealers anymore, and only come with new clutch MCs. They can be brazed and redrilled back to the original .312 if you have the inclination to do this. Same goes with the secondary pedal arm bore. Removal of the pedal box is necessary to do this job right, but is the best solution. I push-fitted a sleeve into my pedal arm, so repairs made here will be easy, in the year 2025! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Colin Thom Sent: Sunday, January 3, 2010 12:51 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] synthetic fluid clean up Hi Y'all.I removed my master clutch cylinder today and found black sludge on the cockpit side that I can attribute to worn seals but the paint on the peddle was blistering and easily rubbed off. The worse news is that the paint on the firewall is also blistering a bit, though it doesn't seem as easy to rub off. Any ideas as to how to clean this, if indeed I should even touch it? Is there some magic solution that would neutralize the DOT 5 that has caused this? Oh.and if you're thinking DOT 5 doesn't eat paint, as I did, it would appear we're wrong..it just takes longer. I've had a fussy clutch for many months but life just hasn't offered the time or place to get around to fixing it until now. Too bad, 'cause it's a sunny day and if the master cylinder pushrod and clevis pin weren't too worn to re-use, I'd have it all back on the road for a spin. Thanks for your help. Colin. '75 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Jan 4 21:42:09 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Mon, 4 Jan 2010 20:42:09 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. Message-ID: <422041.78498.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> 6 in cold storage (I mean brrr frostbite cold) for winter in detached garage. Go out there last week, what's this, a big mess of brake fluid on the floor. Swear a bit, head inside to warm up and think. A friend says to look where MC is attached to booster, happened to him. Sure enough, he's right about the source of leak. I suppose seals were deteriorating as there was some black stuff suspended in the brake fluid the past few years. Okay, now what. 1. I do have a new MC that I bought on ebay several years ago. Looks identical to original. Metal casting is gold in colour. Came wrapped in wax paper in a Unipart box that said made in GB or England. Nothing on MC to identify manufacturer. 2.. I understand I need to bench bleed the MC. Are there instructions for this somewhere? 3. Replace the MC and bleed the whole system? 4. Is the PWDA likely to need re-centering after this? 5. Is there anything else I should do or know, such as have brake booster rebuilt? I have a set of cuppro-nickel TR6 brake pipes all nicely rolled up in a bag from a Scottish ebayer. they need to be bent, which I've never done, although I have a pipe bending tool. that's supposed to be for these tasks. Taking the old ones off and installing the new ones while on my back under a greasy oily dirty car might not be a really pleasant job. Maybe I should have bought the pre-bent stainless pipes to make my life a little easier. I installed ss brake hoses a few years ago, so I've a little expereince here. Should I use the original style clips to hold the pipes to the frame or, is there a better alternative? l have a propane construction heater that will heat the garage to a workabe temperature, or, I can always wait till warmer spring weather. Having car ready to go come spring is of course the best. Thanks a bunch for any advice or suggestions. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Jan 5 08:03:12 2010 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 10:03:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] engine oil References: Message-ID: I've taken to using synthetic diesel rated oil in my cars due to the high usage of antiwear additives (my son tells me that this is standard practice in the high power biking community), although not is the TR6 since the engine is still not installed!. Lots of ZDDP! (in the same range as racing oils). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 2:05 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Hello > The "not legal for street use" could've been just a warning that the extra > zinc may harm the catalytic converter? I've never seen any synthetic > 20W-50 at my local autoparts stores in the L.A. area, but I do use the > 20W-50 Valvoline Racing oil that has the extra zinc. > > Dick From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Jan 5 11:07:49 2010 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 18:07:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Fw: Your message to 6pack awaits moderator approval Message-ID: <439552314-1262714901-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1714946835-@bda139.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> This is getting to be such a hassle. I will try to send the response to your email Bruce once I get home and can find it. 3 paragraphs is too large, wow. ------Original Message------ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: Lfmaol Sent: Jan 5, 2010 7:49 AM Subject: Your message to 6pack awaits moderator approval Your mail to '6pack' with the subject Re: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. Is being held until the list moderator can review it for approval. The reason it is being held: Message body is too big: 3312 bytes with a limit of 3 KB Either the message will get posted to the list, or you will receive notification of the moderator's decision. If you would like to cancel this posting, please visit the following URL: http://autox.team.net/mailman/confirm/6pack/789124af02cac39c07082b9b7f337a5a863aeb11 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Jan 5 11:12:06 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 10:12:06 -0800 Subject: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. In-Reply-To: <422041.78498.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <422041.78498.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1413528@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bruce: I used a set of the cupro-nickel pipes, and they are very easy to work with. They don't rust and are a good tradeoff between cost and durability. You do not need a tool to bend the pipes. Just bend them by hand. You get nicely radiused corners with no kinks. I tried using the pipe bending tool, and the results were not as nice as simply bending them by hand. I used the original pipe clips with good results. One fitting was incorrectly sized on the new pipes, so I cut it off and replaced it with the fitting from the original pipes. Also one pipe was a touch on the long side, but some creative routing used the excess length and made for a neat looking installation. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 8:42 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. I have a set of cuppro-nickel TR6 brake pipes all nicely rolled up in a bag from a Scottish ebayer. they need to be bent, which I've never done, although I have a pipe bending tool. that's supposed to be for these tasks. Taking the old ones off and installing the new ones while on my back under a greasy oily dirty car might not be a really pleasant job. Maybe I should have bought the pre-bent stainless pipes to make my life a little easier. I installed ss brake hoses a few years ago, so I've a little expereince here. Thanks a bunch for any advice or suggestions. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Jan 5 11:46:50 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 05 Jan 2010 18:46:50 GMT Subject: [6pack] engine oil Message-ID: Tony---Thanks for the tip about the diesel oil's synthetic formula. There are other products that contain the ZDDP (Zinc), if one wanted to stay with their preferred type of oil. One such product is Cam Lube, and of course we can buy the ZDDP additive in small bottles from some of our TR parts vendors. The last time I changed cams, about 5 years (30,000 miles) ago, I used the Cam Lube. At the same time the oil I was using for 30 years went to a formula that was way down in zinc, altho I didn't know or particularly care about this at that time. As far as I can tell, there was no adverse affect from using such oil. Could be the Cam Lube gave the cam lobes and followers extra protection during the break in period. I DO know that the cam followers still looked perfect (unpitted)when checking them the last time I had the head off, about two years ago. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Tony Gordon Sent: Tuesday, January 5, 2010 7:03 AM To: Sally or Dick Taylor, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: engine oil I've taken to using synthetic diesel rated oil in my cars due to the high usage of antiwear additives (my son tells me that this is standard practice in the high power biking community), although not is the TR6 since the engine is still not installed!. Lots of ZDDP! (in the same range as racing oils). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, January 02, 2010 2:05 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Hello > The "not legal for street use" could've been just a warning that the extra > zinc may harm the catalytic converter? I've never seen any synthetic > 20W-50 at my local autoparts stores in the L.A. area, but I do use the > 20W-50 Valvoline Racing oil that has the extra zinc. > > Dick From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Jan 5 11:54:53 2010 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 18:54:53 +0000 Subject: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. Message-ID: <904221733-1262717757-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-352096218-@bda139.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Ok Vance, your reply was way longer than mine and it did not get blocked. What's up with that? Lou ------Original Message------ From: Navarrette, Vance Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: Bruce Simms To: TR-6 list Sent: Jan 5, 2010 12:12 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. Bruce: I used a set of the cupro-nickel pipes, and they are very easy to work with. They don't rust and are a good tradeoff between cost and durability. You do not need a tool to bend the pipes. Just bend them by hand. You get nicely radiused corners with no kinks. I tried using the pipe bending tool, and the results were not as nice as simply bending them by hand. I used the original pipe clips with good results. One fitting was incorrectly sized on the new pipes, so I cut it off and replaced it with the fitting from the original pipes. Also one pipe was a touch on the long side, but some creative routing used the excess length and made for a neat looking installation. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, January 04, 2010 8:42 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. I have a set of cuppro-nickel TR6 brake pipes all nicely rolled up in a bag from a Scottish ebayer. they need to be bent, which I've never done, although I have a pipe bending tool. that's supposed to be for these tasks. Taking the old ones off and installing the new ones while on my back under a greasy oily dirty car might not be a really pleasant job. Maybe I should have bought the pre-bent stainless pipes to make my life a little easier. I installed ss brake hoses a few years ago, so I've a little expereince here. Thanks a bunch for any advice or suggestions. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From stuartt at tlthompson.com Tue Jan 5 13:15:20 2010 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 14:15:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] wheel trim ring set Message-ID: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320> Six List: I want to replace my old scratched up & dented wheel trim rings. VB is currently advertising a special price for a set. Are these any good or would I be better off looking around the internet for something original? Stuart From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jan 5 13:24:41 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 20:24:41 +0000 Subject: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. In-Reply-To: <904221733-1262717757-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-352096218-@bda139.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <904221733-1262717757-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-352096218-@bda139.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DB92B7@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Lou, in addition to keeping your reply short (try removing all vowels :-) ) you also often need to remove or trim the original message which may get included by your email client. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 1:55 PM To: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] 1) Leaking Brake MC 2) Brake pipe replacement. Ok Vance, your reply was way longer than mine and it did not get blocked. What's up with that? Lou From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Tue Jan 5 15:11:19 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 14:11:19 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] wheel trim ring set In-Reply-To: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320> Message-ID: <40763.29980.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Stuart: The original rings have a brushed, non-shiney finish whereas the new replacements have a bright finish. To me they don't look right, but I'm old and cranky so others may likely disagree. I were in your situation if I would look into seeing if a body man could straighten out the dents and then look for metal shops to renew the finish. Probably a lot more money, but that's why these cars are a hobby. Jim --- On Tue, 1/5/10, Stuart Thompson wrote: From: Stuart Thompson Subject: [6pack] wheel trim ring set To: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Tuesday, January 5, 2010, 2:15 PM Six List: I want to replace my old scratched up & dented wheel trim rings. VB is currently advertising a special price for a set. Are these any good or would I be better off looking around the internet for something original? Stuart 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Tue Jan 5 15:26:50 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Tue, 5 Jan 2010 14:26:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] auction values Message-ID: <87226.73713.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Here are some recent auctions for TR6's within the past twelve months. Two are in Branson and two in Kansas City. I don't know what if this says anything concrete about the values of our cars. None of these cars could be called exceptional. The 74 selling for $20,520 back in April seems more than fully priced for its condition. I guess it all depends who shows up to buy on a given day. I'm not currently looking to sell my car, but I was wondering if there are particular auctions that attact people interested in our cars. Anyone have thoughts? Jim http://www.bransonauction.com/car_list.php?offset=8&sort_order=make%2C%20mode l%2C%20year http://www.bransonauction.com/car_list_prev.php?offset=9&sort_order=make%2C%2 0model%2C%20year http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=KC1209-87534 http://www.mecum.com/auctions/lot_detail.cfm?LOT_ID=KC1209-89113 From k6na at cts.com Tue Jan 5 17:37:27 2010 From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann) Date: Tue, 05 Jan 2010 16:37:27 -0800 Subject: [6pack] wheel trim ring set In-Reply-To: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320> References: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320> Message-ID: <20100106003529.87A4F66D4@glatton.concentric.com> At 12:15 PM 1/5/2010, Stuart wrote: >I want to replace my old scratched up & dented wheel trim rings. VB is >currently advertising a special price for a set. >Are these any good or would I be better off looking around the internet for >something original? The VB ones (and probably all after-market ones) appear to be the stainless steel type, offered by most vendors. I have a set for one of my cars and they look pretty good, for the price. But I agree with Jim Jones that they don't look as good as the originals. Originals were aluminum, have a different sheen, and are a bit wider. Jim's suggestion to get the originals 'rebuilt' is interesting.... If someone does it, let us know the results! Glenn/San Diego 74 and 74.5 From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Jan 5 18:15:59 2010 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Tue, 05 Jan 2010 20:15:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] wheel trim ring set In-Reply-To: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320> References: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320> Message-ID: <4B43E44F.9090107@maine.rr.com> Stuart; The VB rings are priced lower than the others because they are polished aluminum, not stainless steel. I know because I called them last year when I saw their price. I bought a set of stainless rims from Rimmer Bros. while they had them on sale with free or reduced shipping and they look very nice. It may be just my opinion but I suspect the stainless rings would keep a shine longer and be a bit more resistant to getting dinged... Good luck! Dave Friedlander '74-Six w/OD and TBI On 1/5/2010 3:15 PM, Stuart Thompson wrote: > Six List: > > I want to replace my old scratched up& dented wheel trim rings. VB is > currently advertising a special price for a set. > > Are these any good or would I be better off looking around the internet for > something original? > > Stuart > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 9.0.725 / Virus Database: 270.14.126/2602 - Release Date: 01/05/10 14:35:00 From ebers at wpa.net Tue Jan 5 22:46:14 2010 From: ebers at wpa.net (Jim) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 00:46:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] wheel trim ring set References: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320> <20100106003529.87A4F66D4@glatton.concentric.com> Message-ID: <2816BDC29A224E95B49F84CD6D585636@your9k1ay6x2a2> The originals are aluminum anodized. Once anodized it can not be re done. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Rattmann" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:37 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] wheel trim ring set > At 12:15 PM 1/5/2010, Stuart wrote: > >>I want to replace my old scratched up & dented wheel trim rings. VB is >>currently advertising a special price for a set. >>Are these any good or would I be better off looking around the internet >>for >>something original? > > The VB ones (and probably all after-market ones) appear to be the > stainless steel type, > offered by most vendors. I have a set for one of my cars and they > look pretty good, for the price. > But I agree with Jim Jones that they don't look as good as the > originals. Originals were aluminum, have a different > sheen, and are a bit wider. Jim's suggestion to get the originals > 'rebuilt' is interesting.... If someone does it, > let us know the results! > > Glenn/San Diego > 74 and 74.5 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as ebers at wpa.net From stubeatty at aol.com Wed Jan 6 10:29:46 2010 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Wed, 06 Jan 2010 12:29:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: wheel trim ring set In-Reply-To: <2816BDC29A224E95B49F84CD6D585636@your9k1ay6x2a2> References: <975A55BA9998472BBD43F6217C14EC83@Dell320><20100106003529.87A4F66D4@glatton.concentric.com> <2816BDC29A224E95B49F84CD6D585636@your9k1ay6x2a2> Message-ID: <8CC5D0CF9DCAB03-2474-6616@webmail-m007.sysops.aol.com> I tried going the route of having my original aluminum rings fixed. They came back looking like crap. I had them powder coated to cover the repair. The finish was supposed to look like brushed aluminum. The results were less than desirable. They looked better than after the repair, but no where near what the originals look like. I had 4 flawless aluminum trim rings that looked terrible. I ended up buying 4 used aluminum rings from ebay. They are not perfect but they are far superior to the repaired version. By the way all the repair work was done by a reputable aluminum repair and fabricating facility. Take it from Glenn, they cannot be redone! Stuart Beatty 76 Carmine TR6 -----Original Message----- From: Jim To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Glenn Rattmann Sent: Wed, Jan 6, 2010 12:46 am Subject: Re: [6pack] wheel trim ring set The originals are aluminum anodized. Once anodized it can not be re done. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn Rattmann" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 05, 2010 7:37 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] wheel trim ring set > At 12:15 PM 1/5/2010, Stuart wrote: > >>I want to replace my old scratched up & dented wheel trim rings. VB is >>currently advertising a special price for a set. >>Are these any good or would I be better off looking around the internet >>for >>something original? > > The VB ones (and probably all after-market ones) appear to be the > stainless steel type, > offered by most vendors. I have a set for one of my cars and they > look pretty good, for the price. > But I agree with Jim Jones that they don't look as good as the > originals. Originals were aluminum, have a different > sheen, and are a bit wider. Jim's suggestion to get the originals > 'rebuilt' is interesting.... If someone does it, > let us know the results! > > Glenn/San Diego > 74 and 74.5 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as ebers at wpa.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stubeatty at aol.com From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Wed Jan 6 11:53:51 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Wed, 06 Jan 2010 11:53:51 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [stag] TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is FOR SALE!! References: b62a678e30e54fbed44845efeba62164.stag Message-ID: <4B44DC3F.3040905@triumphstagclub.org> Greetings! After just three days on auction, uncle jack has MET its reserve price to the dollar, and as of this posting, over 1790 people have looked at the auction!! Keep spreading the word!! At one point, my TTA publicist Chuck Kittelson, had two Vegas casinos vying for the purchase of UJ for 7 figures, but unfortunately with his passing last year that information was lost - never locating any of the contact information or Casino names. Maybe some of you know some people who will post the auction on their weekly automobile eMagazines or to their collector base? I am told some very "serious" collectors are watching the auction - we can only hope! I am sure some of you know the local collector in your area who has a nice warehouse showroom. Let's quickly tap those resources to get as much money for PTSD charity awareness as possible!! Cheers! -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org On 1/3/2010 8:50 PM, StagByTriumph wrote: > Greetings All, > > The LONG awaited auction for the Triumph Trans AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Triumph Stag known as "uncle jack", > > is > > now > > FOR SALE on eBay!! > > PLEASE TELL EVERYONE, EMAIL EVERYONE, CALL ANY INTERESTED PARTY!! > > Remember, this is FOR CHARITY!!! > > The Auction will become Active on Monday, 4 January 2010 at 1:00 am Pacific Time - about 9 am GMT > > Go to eBay http://www.ebay.com and enter item Number 250558126708 > > or click on this link for eBay details > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250558126708 > > Good Luck, Happy Bidding!! > > Cheers! > > Glenn Merrell > TSN Admin > TTA Charity Drive 2009 North American Coordinator From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Jan 6 13:36:08 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 06 Jan 2010 20:36:08 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fwd: wheel trim ring set Message-ID: All---The best product I've found that does a fair job in restoring the luster in the original aluminum trim rings is "Mother's Mag Polish". It --almost-- fades out such things as curb scrapes and the like. Dick '73 From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Wed Jan 6 15:28:46 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Wed, 6 Jan 2010 14:28:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Fwd: wheel trim ring set In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <563686.82815.qm@web33508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> What kind of buffer do you use for this Dick? Or is there a "ball" that goes on a drill? Jim --- On Wed, 1/6/10, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: From: Sally or Dick Taylor Subject: Re: [6pack] Fwd: wheel trim ring set To: stubeatty at aol.com, 6pack at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, January 6, 2010, 2:36 PM All---The best product I've found that does a fair job in restoring the luster in the original aluminum trim rings is "Mother's Mag Polish". It --almost-- fades out such things as curb scrapes and the like. Dick '73 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From slbridge at hotmail.com Wed Jan 6 19:17:37 2010 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Thu, 7 Jan 2010 02:17:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] wheel trim ring set Message-ID: Funny, I was cleaning house today as it is not nice outdoors in South Dakota, and I found a beauty ring. I once parted a TR6 that had burned because the trouble light that was shut off at the switch, but on at the light, was laying on the soft top when the switch was turned on and left on. Yep, burned the interior and wire harness out of a 21,000 mile car. I bought it for the Motor, OD and Diff and sold the rust free tub to guy in Minnesota. Anyway, would somebody post exacting measurements of the inside and outside of an original ring? The one I have is aluminum, but I have had other English cars too. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390708/direct/01/ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jan 7 00:17:25 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 07 Jan 2010 07:17:25 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fwd: wheel trim ring set Message-ID: Jim---I just used a folded pad of terry cloth. Not much pressure or buffing is required, as this Mother's Mag Polish paste has some grit in it. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Sent: Wednesday, January 6, 2010 2:28 PM To: stubeatty at aol.com, 6pack at autox.team.net, Sally or Dick Taylor Subject: Re: [6pack] Fwd: wheel trim ring set What kind of buffer do you use for this Dick? Or is there a "ball" that goes on a drill? o?= Jim --- On Wed, 1/6/10, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: From: Sally or Dick Taylor Subject: Re: [6pack] Fwd: wheel trim ring set To: stubeatty at aol.com, 6pack at autox.team.net Date: Wednesday, January 6, 2010, 2:36 PM All---The best product I've found that does a fair job in restoring the luster in the original aluminum trim rings is "Mother's Mag Polish". It --almost-- fades out such things as curb scrapes and the like. Dick '73 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From stuartt at tlthompson.com Fri Jan 8 11:47:02 2010 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 12:47:02 -0600 Subject: [6pack] stick-on fender vents Message-ID: I never thought I'd see a TR-6 with those fake stick-on fender vents but I just did. White early TR6 with hard top driving east on I-30, Dallas area. Anybody on this list? Are you crazy? From britishcars at shaw.ca Fri Jan 8 11:58:13 2010 From: britishcars at shaw.ca (PG) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 10:58:13 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR250 for sale Message-ID: <4FCE8111B4354CBCAFD906310EBA73A8@PaulPC> I have a 1968 TR250 for sale.. Pictures at www.picasaweb.google.com/justfuelnaround Restoration was done by XKs unlimited,a very well respected shop in California (does a lot of work for Jay Leno). A first class job....Dynamat, tubeshocks, oil cooler and headers..... It currently has Ansa exhaust but I have a new stock system also. Car needs nothing and pictures tell the story. The front bonnet stripe was not painted on as the previous owner did not like the look of it. Not sure on the price yet suspect it will be in low $20's which seems to be the market.. I paid about $25k a few years ago. Would consider trade for Healy BN1 or BN2.any condition. Paul From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jan 8 12:39:47 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 11:39:47 -0800 Subject: [6pack] stick-on fender vents In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1480D7B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Stu: Ummmm..... Crazy? Yes. On the list? Obviously. Stick on TR6 fender vents? Ewwwww. Guess I am not your man =;-) Now if you had asked me if I was the guy driving his TR6 while naked.... Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 10:47 AM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] stick-on fender vents I never thought I'd see a TR-6 with those fake stick-on fender vents but I just did. White early TR6 with hard top driving east on I-30, Dallas area. Anybody on this list? Are you crazy? From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Fri Jan 8 13:05:32 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 13:05:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] stick-on fender vents In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1480D7B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F1480D7B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <008701ca909d$f324c960$d96e5c20$@edu> And when I can afford then, I'm gonna put on spinner wheel covers! Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 12:40 PM To: Stuart Thompson; 6 Pack list Subject: Re: [6pack] stick-on fender vents Stu: Ummmm..... Crazy? Yes. On the list? Obviously. Stick on TR6 fender vents? Ewwwww. Guess I am not your man =;-) Now if you had asked me if I was the guy driving his TR6 while naked.... Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 10:47 AM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] stick-on fender vents I never thought I'd see a TR-6 with those fake stick-on fender vents but I just did. White early TR6 with hard top driving east on I-30, Dallas area. Anybody on this list? Are you crazy? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From tidbinbilla at cox.net Fri Jan 8 16:08:26 2010 From: tidbinbilla at cox.net (tidbinbilla at cox.net) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 15:08:26 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Scrap or save TR6 tub. Message-ID: <20100108180826.NQ9M7.120960.imail@fed1rmwml31> Ibm faced with a dilemma. I purchased a 69 TR6 as a parts car for the rebuild of my 70 RHD PI that was severely damaged. Upon dismantling the 69 I discovered that the tub is severely rusted and damaged. The inner/outer sills, floor boards, spare tire pan, captured nuts & plates and foot wells are rusted through and need to be replaced/repaired. Also the rear end sustained major damage and the repair was worse. The rear end is shifted about B= inch to left and when they replaced the rear end, it was not aligned correctly b they ended up using a 2 inch block of wood between the frame and rear body mounts. It would take a lot of work to put it back together correctly. I donbt have the temperament or money to have it done. I can salvage the front clip bfrom the firewall forward but the rest is destined for the scrap. But before I make a final decision, I thought I would query the list to see what others may think. Thanks, David Stauffacher Ramona, Ca CP51649 From ken at azkiwis.com Fri Jan 8 16:17:04 2010 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 16:17:04 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Q on the Speedo Message-ID: <145F33D65FEE4134AFF75F0CC166A133@AcerPC> Hi all, Damn, it's nice driving weather in the desert; beats the snow back East and the 110 - 115F we have here in the summer. Have a specification question on the TR6's Speedo. Specifically, does any one have info on the number of turns per mile? I'm guessing it'll be 'British Standard' 1000 rpm (turns) to a mile, but need to know so I can get mine R&R and recalibrated. Thanks Ken 73 TR6 (top down) Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 8 17:34:36 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 8 Jan 2010 19:34:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Q on the Speedo In-Reply-To: <145F33D65FEE4134AFF75F0CC166A133@AcerPC> References: <145F33D65FEE4134AFF75F0CC166A133@AcerPC> Message-ID: <4B14CBE9FC8C4A4795661A3B0D12BC34@BobPC> Read through here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm It will tell you everything you have to do before sending it out for calibration. What it should be is printed on the face of the speedo at the bottom, but the trim ring may hide it. Mine was 1000 but it could be 1120 or 1200. I highly recommend West Valley Auto. Excellent service, good price and fast turn around times. A bunch of us from the 6-Pack Forum have used them over the past year. The contact person is Morris and contact info is on the web page above. MAKE SURE you send you speedo cable in with the speedo as most of the replacement ones available today seem to have an incorrect tip measurement. Morris rebuilds them to spec too. Paul Rego just had all his gauges refurbished by West Valley and documented it all here http://www.74tr6.com/gauges1.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ken Davis" Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 6:17 PM To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Q on the Speedo > Hi all, > > Damn, it's nice driving weather in the desert; beats the snow back East > and the 110 - 115F we have here in the summer. > > Have a specification question on the TR6's Speedo. Specifically, does any > one have info on the number of turns per mile? I'm guessing it'll be > 'British Standard' 1000 rpm (turns) to a mile, but need to know so I can > get mine R&R and recalibrated. > > > Thanks > > > Ken > 73 TR6 (top down) > Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ken at azkiwis.com Sat Jan 9 11:37:39 2010 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Sat, 9 Jan 2010 11:37:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Q on the Speedo In-Reply-To: <145F33D65FEE4134AFF75F0CC166A133@AcerPC> References: <145F33D65FEE4134AFF75F0CC166A133@AcerPC> Message-ID: <3ABB56DDD0AF4D858E6AF08DCC870017@AcerPC> Well..... Using a GPS unit, I find I'm reading around 8mph faster than I'm actually going, and using Dan Master's spread sheet (205-70x15, 3.70 final drive) I come in about 7 mph in error. This explains why when I think I'm doing 65, everyone is 'roaring' past me. R&R time I think. Ken > > Have a specification question on the TR6's Speedo. Specifically, does any > one have info on the number of turns per mile? I'm guessing it'll be > 'British Standard' 1000 rpm (turns) to a mile, but need to know so I can > get mine R&R and recalibrated. > > > Thanks > > > Ken > 73 TR6 (top down) > Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ > _______________________________________________ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Jan 10 11:07:45 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 13:07:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] temporary starter wiring Message-ID: <201001101307.46170.yellowtr@adelphia.net> In preparation for turning the engine over once I have it all together with the starter is there any problem with connecting the starter to the battery as shown in the wiring diagram with a switched wire to the coil and an additional switched wire from the on side of the main switch to the terminal where the white/red wire from the ignition switch would connect to simulate turning the key to the start position? I want to be able to dry run the engine to get oil circulated prior to installing the spark plugs. I also want to use this setup to test and run the engine before I fit the body tub. Seems simple to me looking at the wiring diagram but I dont want to fry anything. I did a similar setup on my 4 restoration but didn't need a switch for the starter solenoid since the 4 comes with a push button. I always thought the 6 had some sort of a starter relay setup but I dont see one on the 72 diagram, only on the 75/76 diagram. I don't know if it matters but this is a late 72. Thanks Bob From vance.navarrette at intel.com Sun Jan 10 15:25:37 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 14:25:37 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Q on the Speedo In-Reply-To: <3ABB56DDD0AF4D858E6AF08DCC870017@AcerPC> References: <145F33D65FEE4134AFF75F0CC166A133@AcerPC> <3ABB56DDD0AF4D858E6AF08DCC870017@AcerPC> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F148113C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> The turns per mile are printed on the face of the speedo in teensy weensy numbers at the bottom of the speedo. It is possible that you have the wrong speedo in your car, as there were at least two different speedos on the later (chrome rimmed) speedos as I recall. I do not know about the earlier black rimmed speedos, if there was only one calibration or if there were more. Possible sources of error: Wrong speedo as mentioned above. Wrong speedo pinion gear (in tranny at the end of the cable). Wrong size tires (205-70 should be ok). Wrong final drive ratio (unlikely), speedo miscalibrated. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Davis Sent: Saturday, January 09, 2010 10:38 AM To: 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Q on the Speedo Well..... Using a GPS unit, I find I'm reading around 8mph faster than I'm actually going, and using Dan Master's spread sheet (205-70x15, 3.70 final drive) I come in about 7 mph in error. This explains why when I think I'm doing 65, everyone is 'roaring' past me. R&R time I think. Ken > > Have a specification question on the TR6's Speedo. Specifically, does any > one have info on the number of turns per mile? I'm guessing it'll be > 'British Standard' 1000 rpm (turns) to a mile, but need to know so I can > get mine R&R and recalibrated. > > > Thanks > > > Ken > 73 TR6 (top down) > Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Sun Jan 10 15:31:11 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 14:31:11 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Scrap or save TR6 tub. In-Reply-To: <20100108180826.NQ9M7.120960.imail@fed1rmwml31> References: <20100108180826.NQ9M7.120960.imail@fed1rmwml31> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F148113D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> David: You can buy another tub for less than the cost of repairs. I say scrap it and look for another. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tidbinbilla at cox.net Sent: Friday, January 08, 2010 3:08 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Scrap or save TR6 tub. Ibm faced with a dilemma. I purchased a 69 TR6 as a parts car for the rebuild of my 70 RHD PI that was severely damaged. Upon dismantling the 69 I discovered that the tub is severely rusted and damaged. The inner/outer sills, floor boards, spare tire pan, captured nuts & plates and foot wells are rusted through and need to be replaced/repaired. Also the rear end sustained major damage and the repair was worse. The rear end is shifted about B= inch to left and when they replaced the rear end, it was not aligned correctly b they ended up using a 2 inch block of wood between the frame and rear body mounts. It would take a lot of work to put it back together correctly. I donbt have the temperament or money to have it done. I can salvage the front clip bfrom the firewall forward but the rest is destined for the scrap. But before I make a final decision, I thought I would query the list to see what others may think. Thanks, David Stauffacher Ramona, Ca From ken at azkiwis.com Sun Jan 10 16:15:00 2010 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Sun, 10 Jan 2010 16:15:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Q on the Speedo In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F148113C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <145F33D65FEE4134AFF75F0CC166A133@AcerPC> <3ABB56DDD0AF4D858E6AF08DCC870017@AcerPC> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F148113C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <7C7571E9F5A54A09916C6466C59778BE@AcerPC> Thanks Vance --- in answer to your questions the small lettering indicates 1120 tpm - according to Bob Danielson it's one of the known ones. Tyre size is 205-70-15's Speedo is chrome rimmed, but the inner facing surface is black painted, as is tach and the other gauges. final drive s/b standard Pinion gear? never touched, tho' the tranny and j-type OD were rebuilt about 8-9 years ago Now, talking with my son.... He says he caibrated the speedo against his handheld GPS "many" years ago (but after the rebuild?) and it was reading 1-2 miles low. More info -- Orig mileage is unknown (we don't even know if this speedo is original). Within the last month or two, it turned over to 30,000 showing. It did not do it by itself. It would click and click, the odo wheel would show a little movement, almost imperceptible, but never click past 29999; the trip odo wasn't turning over either. I removed it and gave it a little assist - manually, in turning over. I could've screwed something up then. Plus I noticed today while driving with the GPS and marking the glass for the 'real' speed points, that the odo was reading well over .1mile faster than the GPS (and road markers) showed their version of a mile. - More indication something is a-miss with the unit itself. I did notice there have been PO "repairs" to it -- (i) the needle has broken off sometime and been replaced with a painted strip of plastic, (ii) the green light covers have been hacked off, all this makes me wonder if the speedo in the car is the right one... Its a 73, with a J-type OD unit and apparently the right pinon and final drive. Are there any other members with a 73 with a J-type who can verify what the tpm is on their speedos? Thanks Ken Davis ---- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "Ken Davis" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 10, 2010 15:25 Subject: RE: [6pack] Q on the Speedo The turns per mile are printed on the face of the speedo in teensy weensy numbers at the bottom of the speedo. It is possible that you have the wrong speedo in your car, as there were at least two different speedos on the later (chrome rimmed) speedos as I recall. I do not know about the earlier black rimmed speedos, if there was only one calibration or if there were more. Possible sources of error: Wrong speedo as mentioned above. Wrong speedo pinion gear (in tranny at the end of the cable). Wrong size tires (205-70 should be ok). Wrong final drive ratio (unlikely), speedo miscalibrated. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From grego at sandesco.com Mon Jan 11 09:00:19 2010 From: grego at sandesco.com (Grego Sanguinetti) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 08:00:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning Message-ID: <4B4B4B13.6050008@sandesco.com> I saw this referenced on a welding forum and thought I would pass it on here. Pretty scary! Synopsis: don't mig/tig weld on anything that has been cleaned with brake cleaner http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Jan 11 12:37:50 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 19:37:50 GMT Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning Message-ID: Grego--Very interesting! I'm wondering if this would also be the case if using (MIG) welding wire that is flux impregnated, rather than using the Argon gas as the deoxidizer? I've also submitted this question and story to "SNOPES" to see if it's myth or has substance. My cynicism lies in brake cleaners almost instant evaporation, yet apparantly stayed around during the heat and air of the welding process. Old enough to doubt, young enough to learn! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Grego Sanguinetti Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 8:00 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning I saw this referenced on a welding forum and thought I would pass it on here. Pretty scary! Synopsis: don't mig/tig weld on anything that has been cleaned with brake cleaner http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Jan 11 13:12:49 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 13:12:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4B4B8641.7090207@dfn.com> Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Grego--Very interesting! I'm wondering if this would also be the case if using (MIG) welding wire that is flux impregnated, rather than using the Argon gas as the deoxidizer? I've also submitted this question and story to "SNOPES" to see if it's myth or has substance. My cynicism lies in brake cleaners almost instant evaporation, yet apparantly stayed around during the heat and air of the welding process. > Old enough to doubt, young enough to learn! > > Yes, brake cleaner does evaporate quickly, and has a very low vapor pressure. However, many items have microscopic or larger pores where the liquid can be retained due to surface tension, and if you've looked carefully, most brake cleaners leave a very light film on the surface, composed of less volatile components. So, yes, it's a problem. Compounding this problem is a long-known phenomenon of welding byproducts collecting and concentrating under the welding hood, because of its shape and lack of ventilation. Many a case of welders coming down with early emphysema due to breathing in burned flux products, not to mention the odd instance of welders coming down with cadmium and zinc poisoning after welding galvanized and cadmium-plated parts. As for your question about flux wire being safer than argon, nope, I doubt it. It's the heat of the arc that is the principal cause of the chemical effects. Argon is not a deoxidizer, strictly speaking. It's an inert shielding gas, and doesn't contribute to the chemical processes--flooding the area with inert gas simply keeps oxygen in the atmosphere away from weld area (and provides for a slightly more stable arc when the gas is turned into a plasma by the heat of the arc). Flux wire does the same thing, but in a more localized and less effective fashion. Generally, if I had my druthers, no matter what was being welded, I'd prefer inert gas to fluxes, the byproducts of which are often not good for one. As for preventive measures, a scrub with warm water and a simple detergent should remove enough of the remaining traces of brake cleaner to make welding safe. In any event, the most serious cases almost always have as a component lack of adequate ventilation, so it's always safer to have some forced ventilation available. I did this even when using tig on virgin metal, simply because the electrodes in use then had small percentages of thorium added, the isotopes of which are all radioactive. Since cadmium is toxic, the same would be true today for tungsten-cadmium electrodes. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From grego at sandesco.com Mon Jan 11 15:35:51 2010 From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 22:35:51 +0000 Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Michael Porter [mailto:mdporter at dfn.com] >...In any event, the most serious cases almost always have as a component > lack of adequate ventilation, so it's always safer to have some forced >ventilation available. definitely a good idea, although in the article he points out that he had the door open and the ventilation fan on at the time. That made it more scary. sorry about the repeat post, I hadn't noticed it posted before. -grego From william.mcintire at wright.edu Mon Jan 11 15:50:31 2010 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 17:50:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <69b0fc78527c.4b4b64e7@wright.edu> Dick and All Below is a link form a Speedster owners group. This cleaner can potentially generate Phosgene gas (WW 1 chemical agent). REALLY nasty stuff and no cure. http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm Bill '70 6 ----- Original Message ----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Date: Monday, January 11, 2010 2:38 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning To: Grego Sanguinetti , 6pack at autox.team.net > Grego--Very interesting! I'm wondering if this would also be the > case if using (MIG) welding wire that is flux impregnated, > rather than using the Argon gas as the deoxidizer? I've > also submitted this question and story to "SNOPES" to see if > it's myth or has substance. My cynicism lies in brake cleaners > almost instant evaporation, yet apparantly stayed around during > the heat and air of the welding process. > Old enough to doubt, young enough to learn! > > Dick From dc_bruin at hotmail.com Mon Jan 11 18:50:38 2010 From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper) Date: Mon, 11 Jan 2010 17:50:38 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Lug Nuts Message-ID: Gang: Out driving today (Southern California weather) and nearly lost a wheel. I heard a thunking noise and pulled over to find that the lug nuts on my left rear were loose. I haven't done any work on the car in quite a while and have been driving a fair bit so I don't know how they came to be loose. I suppose they could have been poorly tightened after some forgotten maintenence but that must have been a while ago. I have standard steel wheels and lugnuts -- do these things tend to loosen over time or is it just me? Thanks (and lucky), Dwayne '74 tr6 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390710/direct/01/ From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Mon Jan 11 19:30:22 2010 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 02:30:22 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Brake/ Hazard dash light decals Message-ID: Hi Everyone, Today I got a strip of P-Touch white on clear tape and made this hazard, Brake decal. You can see the results here. http://s715.photobucket.com/albums/ww158/Toodies_dad/Brake%20Hazard%20decals/ The result is not perfect, but in my opinion, pretty good. You need to use a very sharp craft knife to cut the tape to the correct size and then use the tape stuck to the tip of the craft knife to position and press. It took me a total of less about five minutes to do both labels. Hay, its not concours, but good enough. If anyone would like two of each decal (in order to get them the right font size they have to be one over the other) please send me a self addressed stamped envelope and $1.00 or two commerative .43 cent stamps to the address below. Bob Rochlin 235 Woodland Rd. Milton, MA 02186 Bob '72 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390709/direct/01/ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Jan 12 00:41:10 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 07:41:10 GMT Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning 2 Message-ID: OK, brake cleaner and other solvents aren't good to breathe, and worse when trapped or concentrated under a welding helmet. In re-reading the article in the "Iron" magazine, the writer says he followed his "normal proceedure of using an acetylene torch to burn off any residue". (Normally only goggles need be used with acetylene). If he had used such a torch, why was there anything left to create the vapors that put his health in such peril when then going on to use the TIG welder? Som ting missin'!? Michael's reply was right on the money, particularly about the inert gas and it's oxygen shielding duty. (I couldn't think of this and substituted "deoxidizer" in it's place, which wasn't correct). So now I'll shut up...and read some of the Material Safety Data Sheets that was sent my way. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Grego Sanguinetti Sent: Monday, January 11, 2010 8:00 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning I saw this referenced on a welding forum and thought I would pass it on here. Pretty scary! Synopsis: don't mig/tig weld on anything that has been cleaned with brake cleaner http://www.brewracingframes.com/id75.htm 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From yellowtr at adelphia.net Tue Jan 12 06:00:52 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 08:00:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Lug Nuts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201001120800.52385.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 11 January 2010 08:50:38 pm Dwayne Cooper wrote: > Gang: > > > > Out driving today (Southern California weather) and nearly lost a wheel. I > heard a thunking noise and pulled over to find that the lug nuts on my left > rear were loose. I haven't done any work on the car in quite a while and > have been driving a fair bit so I don't know how they came to be loose. I > suppose they could have been poorly tightened after some forgotten > maintenence but that must have been a while ago. I have standard steel > wheels and lugnuts -- do these things tend to loosen over time or is it > just me? > > > > Thanks (and lucky), > > > > Dwayne > > '74 tr6 > Dwayne, Yes you were lucky! It is my guess that the nuts were not tightened. They way they are designed with the taper they should never come loose. I have stock wheels on my 58 TR3 with the stock nuts and every time I need to remove a wheel, they are as tight as when I put the tire on. There is a torque setting somewhere in the manual but I use the stock brace to tighten and always tighten until I hear that squeal sound. It takes a hefty pull with the tire on the ground. Bob From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Tue Jan 12 17:54:35 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Tue, 12 Jan 2010 17:54:35 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Less than 30 hours TTA Stag Uncle Jack will have a New Owner! Message-ID: <4B4D19CB.1010208@triumphstagclub.org> Hi Folks, Less than 30 hours the new owner of Uncle Jack will be revealed. This eBay Auction ENDS at 01:00 am Pacific Time on the 14th, that is about 4 am Eastern time on the 14th and about 09:00 am GMT? Sorry for the odd times listing, I was thinking PM times and set it for AM times ... Heck, serious bidders will be watching and will put last minute electronic bids anyway ... WHO might the new owner be?? Any side bets (those proceeds would go to the charity of course ...) on final sale price?? Over 4100 viewing this auction, and over 188 active watchers Go to eBay and enter item Number 250558126708 or click on this link for eBay details http://tinyurl.com/yjxnxha Good Luck, Happy Bidding!! Cheers! Glenn Merrell TSN Admin TTA Charity Drive 2009 North American Coordinator -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Wed Jan 13 14:38:38 2010 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 21:38:38 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Hazard/ Warning Lettering Labels Info. Message-ID: A few notes about the use of P-Pouch labels for the Brake and Hazard waring lights: 1. The labels are very durable and can be repositioned a couple of times if you are not happy with the alignment. 2. The labels are easy to remove cleanly just by working your nail under the edge and lifting. 3. The labels are easier to work with when cold (great time of year for that). 4. Go to http://s715.photobucket.com/albums/ww158/Toodies_dad/Brake%20Hazard%20decals/ to see the best type of knife to trim the labels and how the label is held while it is positioned. 5. You really want to trim the labels close to the lettering to get the best look. 6. The backing comes off the label with a little patience. Work your nail or the knife gently between the plastic label and the paper backing. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390709/direct/01/ From dramsey11 at windstream.net Wed Jan 13 17:52:09 2010 From: dramsey11 at windstream.net (D Ramsey) Date: Wed, 13 Jan 2010 19:52:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning 2 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <2B.2A.02739.ABA6E4B4@lrcmmta07> Before we dismiss this subject... I'm sitting here with a can of brake cleaner (CRC Brakleen) in my hand and the warning label specifically says "...do not use this product near open flames, welding operations,...Vapors may decompose to harmful or fatal corrosive gases such as hydrogen chloride and possibly phosgene" That's good enough for me. The original story may or may not have happened as reported, but the science appears sound. Myth confirmed, don't torch the stuff. Darrell R -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Tuesday, January 12, 2010 2:41 AM To: Grego Sanguinetti; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] brake cleaner and welding warning 2 OK, brake cleaner and other solvents aren't good to breathe, and worse when trapped or concentrated under a welding helmet. In re-reading the article in the "Iron" magazine, the writer says he followed his "normal proceedure of using an acetylene torch to burn off any residue". (Normally only goggles need be used with acetylene). If he had used such a torch, why was there anything left to create the vapors that put his health in such peril when then going on to use the TIG welder? Som ting missin'!? Michael's reply was right on the money, particularly about the inert gas and it's oxygen shielding duty. (I couldn't think of this and substituted "deoxidizer" in it's place, which wasn't correct). So now I'll shut up...and read some of the Material Safety Data Sheets that was sent my way. Dick From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Thu Jan 14 08:53:57 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 08:53:57 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!! Message-ID: <4B4F3E15.5010801@triumphstagclub.org> *TTA Stag - Uncle Jack is SOLD!!!!* Posted by: *StagByTriumph* Date: 01/14/2010 08:52AM Hello All, The eBay auction of uncle Jack is now complete, and ... The new owners of Uncle Jack are ... (drum roll ....) Phil and Susan Ethier of St. Paul Minnesota!! Their completion of this auction will finish a grand total of about $45,000 being raised for the three PTSD Charities! Congratulations Phil and Susan, and huge THANK YOU for all the clubs and dedicated individuals who made this event a success!! Job Well Done!! (so .... wot's next?) Glenn Merrell TTA Charity Drive 2009 North American Coordinator Glenn A. Merrell TriumphStag dot Net administrator TTA North American Coordinator (2007-2009) past Chairman TSC USA (2007-2009) past TSC USA President (2001-2007) "The BEST trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield." 8) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 14 17:54:18 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 18:54:18 -0600 Subject: [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <6fa72a771001100854q166aef1dy119f9f0301479801@mail.gmail.com> References: <6fa72a771001100854q166aef1dy119f9f0301479801@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> I see a product called evans waterless coolant; I suspect there are other brands. anyone use it? familiar with it? know anything about it? obviously it has no water; rust is no longer a problem, and supposedly never needs to be changed. in our cars that might be nice, although usually I seem to change my coolant because it ends up on the highway . . . . From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jan 14 18:33:00 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 17:33:00 -0800 Subject: [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> ---- oliver wrote: > I see a product called evans waterless coolant; I suspect there are other > brands. > > anyone use it? familiar with it? know anything about it? Used to be the stock coolant in Volkswagens back in the day... From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Thu Jan 14 19:05:06 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 19:05:06 -0700 Subject: [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> References: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> Message-ID: <007e01ca9587$2ba1d470$82e57d50$@edu> Maybe I'm being a bit dense here, but didn't old VWs use AIR as a coolant?? Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of fishplate at charter.net Sent: Thursday, January 14, 2010 6:33 PM To: '6 Pack list'; list Triumph Subject: Re: [6pack] waterless coolant ---- oliver wrote: > I see a product called evans waterless coolant; I suspect there are other > brands. > > anyone use it? familiar with it? know anything about it? Used to be the stock coolant in Volkswagens back in the day... 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Jan 14 19:28:39 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 19:28:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <007e01ca9587$2ba1d470$82e57d50$@edu> References: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> <007e01ca9587$2ba1d470$82e57d50$@edu> Message-ID: <4B4FD2D7.50202@dfn.com> Kevin McNelis wrote: > Maybe I'm being a bit dense here, but didn't old VWs use AIR as a coolant?? > > Oh, yes, true for the pre-1980 engines in Bugs and vans, but, I think the reference is to the so-called Wasserboxer engines in the Vanagons. Those engines initially used a water/glycol mix which encouraged corrosion in the aluminum alloy used in the block and heads, which largely showed up as erosion of the material in the seal lands and leakage around the coolant o-ring seals between block and head. Thus a revised coolant (and block material, I think) to correct the problem. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From fishplate at charter.net Thu Jan 14 19:53:06 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Thu, 14 Jan 2010 21:53:06 -0500 Subject: [6pack] waterless coolant In-Reply-To: <4B4FD2D7.50202@dfn.com> References: <0D7264BFE5554A4A82997266B6075758@ranteer.local> <20100114203300.SHIJ5.2235735.root@mp11> <007e01ca9587$2ba1d470$82e57d50$@edu> <4B4FD2D7.50202@dfn.com> Message-ID: At 09:28 PM 1/14/2010, Michael Porter wrote: >Kevin McNelis wrote: >>Maybe I'm being a bit dense here, but didn't old VWs use AIR as a coolant?? >> >> >Oh, yes, true for the pre-1980 engines in Bugs and vans, but, I >think the reference is to the so-called Wasserboxer engines in the Vanagons. No, the reference was to air, which we Engineers confusingly call a fluid.... Oh, well... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com Fri Jan 15 07:18:13 2010 From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 09:18:13 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Looking for a TR6 rear engine plate . . . for cheap of course Message-ID: Hey out there, I was wondering if any of you out there had an old rear engine plate (adapts the block to the transmission bell housing and mounts the starter motor) laying around that you had no use for. Maybe someone out there got themselves a fancy new aluminum one and has the old steel one laying around??? I could take it off your hands for you . . . I live in the Washington DC area and go down to Richmond, VA on occassion. Drop me an e-mail if you can help. Scott Tilton -- Signature below blatantly stolen from Bud Rolofson: 70TR6 CC5#### (Good 6) 63TR4 CT157## (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 64TR4 CT25### (The Project) 97F-150 L TRUCKO (Triumph Support Vehicle) 1989 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (economic commuter Vehicle) From tidbinbilla at cox.net Fri Jan 15 23:02:16 2010 From: tidbinbilla at cox.net (tidbinbilla) Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 22:02:16 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? Message-ID: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> I'm having a dispute with the insurance company of the kid who ran into my RHD PI TR6. They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 hp verions. What say you? From bratt at sasktel.net Fri Jan 15 23:40:20 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 00:40:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> Message-ID: <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> >They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 > hp verions. What say you? The 150 hp RHD model is worth more because it is found in the market place in far lesser numbers. British car enthusiasts are drawn to RHD because it is "more authentic" as a show car. In addition it is more desireable in competition circles because of the higher horsepower. I know my RHD Mini 1300 is worth more in the marketplace than a Mini 998 LHD simply because of performance and rarity.. Ed Bratt 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "tidbinbilla" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 12:02 AM Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? > I'm having a dispute with the insurance company of the kid who ran into my > RHD > PI TR6. They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD > 100 > hp verions. What say you? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Jan 16 08:07:33 2010 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 10:07:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? In-Reply-To: <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Message-ID: <49f668fe1001160707o1dbc459cj53c78f408fc85744@mail.gmail.com> On the other hand, a potential buyer of a TR6 may be quite concerned about buying a car designed for another market. RHD is potentially a safety problem and to someone who doesn't work on their car might make them cautious that there would be unusual repair costs. In other words a RHD car might be desirable to someone who wants it for a specific purpose (like competition) but not to the average Joe. The problem with this kind of car is finding the buyer who wants it. You might get a higher price, but you would have to look harder and it would take longer... What $ difference are they saying? John North On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 1:40 AM, ed wrote: >> They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 >> hp verions. What say you? > > The 150 hp RHD model is worth more because it is found in the market place > in far lesser numbers. British car enthusiasts are drawn to RHD because it > is "more authentic" as a show car. In addition it is more desireable in > competition circles because of the higher horsepower. > > I know my RHD Mini 1300 is worth more in the marketplace than a Mini 998 > LHD simply because of performance and rarity.. > > Ed Bratt > 1976 TR6 > > > ----- Original Message ----- From: "tidbinbilla" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 12:02 AM > Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? > > >> I'm having a dispute with the insurance company of the kid who ran into my >> RHD >> PI TR6. They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD >> 100 >> hp verions. What say you? >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From keith at navyboy.com Sat Jan 16 09:35:04 2010 From: keith at navyboy.com (keith meinhold) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 11:35:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? In-Reply-To: <49f668fe1001160707o1dbc459cj53c78f408fc85744@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: RHD cars always bring less money in the US than their LHD counterparts. Take a look in Hemmings at any RHD (typically RR & Bentley's) and you will find a significant difference in price. A RHD TR-6 Brings stronger money in the UK than a lefty. On 1/16/10 10:07 AM, "John North" wrote: > On the other hand, a potential buyer of a TR6 may be quite concerned > about buying a car designed for another market. RHD is potentially a > safety problem and to someone who doesn't work on their car might make > them cautious that there would be unusual repair costs. In other > words a RHD car might be desirable to someone who wants it for a > specific purpose (like competition) but not to the average Joe. The > problem with this kind of car is finding the buyer who wants it. You > might get a higher price, but you would have to look harder and it > would take longer... > > What $ difference are they saying? > > John North > > On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 1:40 AM, ed wrote: >>> They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 >>> hp verions. What say you? >> >> The 150 hp RHD model is worth more because it is found in the market place >> in far lesser numbers. British car enthusiasts are drawn to RHD because it >> is "more authentic" as a show car. In addition it is more desireable in >> competition circles because of the higher horsepower. >> >> I know my RHD Mini 1300 is worth more in the marketplace than a Mini 998 >> LHD simply because of performance and rarity.. >> >> Ed Bratt >> 1976 TR6 >> >> >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "tidbinbilla" >> To: <6pack at autox.team.net> >> Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 12:02 AM >> Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? >> >> >>> I'm having a dispute with the insurance company of the kid who ran into my >>> RHD >>> PI TR6. They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD >>> 100 >>> hp verions. What say you? >>> _______________________________________________ >>> >>> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >>> >>> 6pack at autox.team.net >>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >>> >>> http://www.team.net/archive >>> >>> You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as keith at navyboy.com -- Keith Meinhold 1251 NE 84th Street, Miami FL 33138 | 305 804-7064 | keith at navyboy.com From triosan at gmail.com Sat Jan 16 10:57:51 2010 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold and/or Kathleen Kelley) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 09:57:51 -0800 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] silicone Valve Cover Gaskets In-Reply-To: <20100116174121.BAC3F187652@autox.team.net> References: <4B404186-7D84-44E7-AEAC-58D6F0FA5A1F@comcast.net> <668FE02A1E1747448773071DA00CDF8F@Pendys> <20100116174121.BAC3F187652@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8cbd782d1001160957l18a142aex5313e3ab13983311@mail.gmail.com> I use these for the 6 cylinder with non-stock valve cover: Had very good luck with one a guy sells on ebay all the time. Glue it to the cover so if you have to have head work done you do not lose it [ask me how I know]. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=220296018075&ss PageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT vendor name is roadstergaskets Chuck On Sat, Jan 16, 2010 at 9:40 AM, Tony Drews wrote: > This is probably a good place to start: > http://jmwagnersales.com/ > > Works with the stock valve cover, not the aluminum one as I recall. The > folks who have them seem to love them. You really need to have the engine > cool to install the valve cover with this gasket in place - the heat expands > the gasket and makes things difficult for installation. So, if you're > frequently pulling the valve cover between sessions at the track it's a bit > of a challenge. Otherwise, it's a nice solution. > > - Tony Drews > > At 10:20 AM 1/16/2010, Mark Pendergrass wrote: >> >> Guess i'm outta the loop here, how do i/we get more info. on this product, >> Mark P. >> ----- Original Message ----- From: "marty sukey" >> To: "Scott Janzen" ; "FOT" >> Sent: Saturday, January 16, 2010 7:13 AM >> Subject: Re: [Fot] silicone Valve Cover Gaskets >> >> >>> I have one of Justin Wagner's gaskets on my engine and would definitely >>> do it >>> again. Good stuff. >>> >>> Marty >>> >>>> From: s.janzen at comcast.net >>>> To: fot at autox.team.net >>>> Date: Fri, 15 Jan 2010 15:20:51 -0500 >>>> Subject: [Fot] silicone Valve Cover Gaskets >>>> >>>> has anyone had good or bad experiences with these? Thinking about >>>> replacing the leaky cork one on my GT6 - it does have an alloy cover. >>>> >>>> I'm guessing this has been discussed before - is there a way to search >>>> the archives by subject? > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Suggested annual donation $12.96 > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > -- Chuck Arnold and Kathleen Kelley From bratt at sasktel.net Sat Jan 16 12:00:23 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 13:00:23 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> <49f668fe1001160707o1dbc459cj53c78f408fc85744@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <002d01ca96de$28840fd0$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> John: It may be different where you are, but numerous RHD British cars show up at our car shows. We also have quite a number of RHD cars and trucks in daily use on the road. Canada allows cars 15 years old to be imported, so there are lots of Japanese RHD cars as well as British cars.. There is a local RHD car club which draws the performance car owners of Japanese makes built for their home market, such as the Nissan Skyline GTR and Mitsubishi FTO GP-X. There has not been any unusual rise in accidents with RHD cars, or there would be restrictions put on them. I have no figures, but have heard that they have demonstrated a lower accident rate than LHD cars. This is probably because the majority of buyers are car entusiasts, and have developed driving skills. I have driven a RHD Toyoya truck, and 2 RHD Mini's, and have had no safety concerns. As far as passing, the narrow width of the RHD Mini gives it about the same passing visibility as a full body LHD truck. I would put the RHD safety concern in the same basket as the fear of getting hit by a big car while driving a Triumph . It just is not realistically based. On most models of RHD cars there is no maintenance problems or greater cost. I have seen RHD cars in the shop getting service just like any other car. The owners of some of the high performance cars or diesels that are not usually sold here might experience delays in getting parts. The only major delay I am aware of was a Toyota Land Cruiser waiting for a computer--but them My wife's US built Corolla had a minor wait for a computer, too. Two of my friends in Fargo, North Dakota, ran Sports Car for several decades, and serviced many RHD cars that were brought home by returning military. Ed Bratt 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John North" From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Sat Jan 16 15:19:56 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 15:19:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? In-Reply-To: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> Message-ID: <003c01ca96fa$0a7f8480$1f7e8d80$@edu> I'll defer to those who are far more knowledgeable about values than I, but would hasten to remind you that insurance companies (ESPECIALLY the other guy's) just want you to go away for the least amount of money they can get by with paying.... Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tidbinbilla Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 11:02 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? I'm having a dispute with the insurance company of the kid who ran into my RHD PI TR6. They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 hp verions. What say you? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Jan 16 15:58:55 2010 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 16 Jan 2010 22:58:55 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? Message-ID: <1024697570-1263682730-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-148235648-@bda597.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Yup, that's why you need agreed value classic car insurance. Ironically its less expensive for way more coverage. But I would think that since you were the one hit they have to make you whole. An idea if they are looking to total it is to say you will settle for one just like it and you will probably need a lawyer on your team to get what its worth if you have conventional insurance as they will give you bluebook which is way below what they worth LHD or RHD. Lou ------Original Message------ From: Kevin McNelis Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: 'tidbinbilla' To: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? Sent: Jan 16, 2010 4:19 PM I'll defer to those who are far more knowledgeable about values than I, but would hasten to remind you that insurance companies (ESPECIALLY the other guy's) just want you to go away for the least amount of money they can get by with paying.... Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tidbinbilla Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 11:02 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? I'm having a dispute with the insurance company of the kid who ran into my RHD PI TR6. They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 hp verions. What say you? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com Luis From danc37040 at yahoo.com Sun Jan 17 10:51:08 2010 From: danc37040 at yahoo.com (Dan Clark) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 09:51:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Laycock clutch plate Message-ID: <564650.18102.qm@web111310.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> I've gotton a Laycock Sheffield clutch plate tru E-Bay for a very good price, but had no clutch disk with. What would be the best disk to put with the Laycock, or can any disk be good. The model no. is 746439-753675 or R14693-350966. Thanks Dan From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Jan 17 13:42:44 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 20:42:44 GMT Subject: [6pack] Laycock clutch plate Message-ID: Dan---I've read that LUk bought out the Laycock name, so I would think that the disk as sold by LUk would be a good match for your Laycock pressure plate. (I'm not familiar with the model numbers that you showed). Some years back I also read that it was OK to mix and match the B&B with Laycock. I see no dimensional reason why this wouldn't apply today. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Dan Clark Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 9:51 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Laycock clutch plate I've gotton a Laycock Sheffield clutch plate tru E-Bay for a very good price, but had no clutch disk with. What would be the best disk to put with the Laycock, or can any disk be good. The model no. is 746439-753675 or R14693-350966. Thanks Dan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From colinthom at shaw.ca Sun Jan 17 13:56:51 2010 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 12:56:51 -0800 Subject: [6pack] RHD PI TR6 Value In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801ca97b7$981fca30$c85f5e90$@ca> I had a value dispute once over a TR3 I had. A minor collision had me in the ring with my insurance company and they had waaaaay different idea than I did about the value of the car. I told them what they could price it any way they liked if they intended to write it off, as long as they could find me comparable car that I could buy immediately with the money they were proposing to give me. They changed their tune and we agreed on a number that was certainly closer to mine. I'd argue that a RHD car is more rare, so therefore more desirable. From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Jan 17 15:43:20 2010 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 17:43:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] RHD PI TR6 Value In-Reply-To: <000801ca97b7$981fca30$c85f5e90$@ca> References: <000801ca97b7$981fca30$c85f5e90$@ca> Message-ID: <77CD57BD706E439B9CAF1492E774F68C@Robert> I had a value dispute once................. Check the paragraph of your policy regarding replacement value. Average Market price is not what most of us have. NADA and Kelly's prices are too vague to do most of our cars justice. As stated before the insurance company must replace and be able to provide a comparable car. When purchasing insurance always get the replacement value clearly defined. Hagerty, JC Taylor and American Classic make this a very easy part of their agreement. Your cost is based on the stated value in part, the rest is all to do with medical and third party injury and other fees. When I restored my TR3A I bought classic car insurance for a $30,000 agreed value. I needed to provide pictures from every angle to show the cars condition. That is what it would have cost to buy one and restore to the standard and detail of mine, if I were to do the work, as I did before. If I get into a major accident, the car is gone and I get the check. More than likely I don't get a second chance at being insured again with them if I replace the car. They generally drop you like a hot potato. Two years ago I increased it to 38,000 because of cost of replacement parts have gone up as well. Should I want a reputable classic car restorer to do the same job it will be closer to $55-60k, which is way over the price of a good looking, TR3A, but the cost of my insurance will double along with having an appraiser from the insurance company come and look at the car. They are some very knowledgeable appraisers who know and understand British Cars, and then there are the opposite as well. Over insuring a car makes the companies suspicious of possible fraud. At that point, most of them decline to insure at inflated prices. Just my two cents worth. From vance.navarrette at intel.com Sun Jan 17 16:35:37 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 15:35:37 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? In-Reply-To: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F2173208@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> RHD should not matter too much. At least I don't think so. I would say that a RHD might even be worse in the US since it is less safe than a LHD. I know I found that LHD minis were worth more than RHD - $500 to $1000. But remember, that was a mini, not a sports car. Minis are trash compacts in the UK, desirable oddities in the US. The cost of converting from RHD to LHD is less than $500 for a mini, but for a TR6 it is more since you need to cut sheet metal, etc. On my mini though, there was the extra kit that was exceedingly difficult to find that was needed for the conversion, and the pedal box needed modification, so it was not without its difficulties. So to sum up, I would say that RHD *might* be worth less, not more. The repair costs are the same, I would imagine. As to what the 150HP might get you, you might try looking on eBay UK, and see what kind of premium the 150HP versions get over, say, the 125HP versions or 105 version imported from North America. THAT is worth something extra - since power is always worth $$$ (at least for me, it is). Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of tidbinbilla Sent: Friday, January 15, 2010 10:02 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? I'm having a dispute with the insurance company of the kid who ran into my RHD PI TR6. They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 hp verions. What say you? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Jan 18 05:48:00 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 04:48:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] RHD discussion Message-ID: <929824.51047.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I will defer to those more knowledgable than I am concerning the RHD v LHD issue but I haven't seen anything re the PI part of this equation. Due to it's rarity and desirability I would think that any diminished value the RHD has would be more than offset by the PI portion of this equation. Mike Lunsford From keith at navyboy.com Mon Jan 18 06:51:06 2010 From: keith at navyboy.com (keith meinhold) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 08:51:06 -0500 Subject: [6pack] RHD PI TR6 Value In-Reply-To: <000801ca97b7$981fca30$c85f5e90$@ca> Message-ID: Agree with that statement. I got hit in My Sonett III and had to fight with the insurance company six months (many letters) finally I contacted my home insurance agent which was the same insurer as the guy who hit me. It was resolved to my satisfaction within 2 weeks. On 1/17/10 3:56 PM, "Colin Thom" wrote: > I had a value dispute once over a TR3 I had. A minor collision had me in the > ring with my insurance company and they had waaaaay different idea than I > did about the value of the car. I told them what they could price it any way > they liked if they intended to write it off, as long as they could find me > comparable car that I could buy immediately with the money they were > proposing to give me. They changed their tune and we agreed on a number that > was certainly closer to mine. I'd argue that a RHD car is more rare, so > therefore more desirable. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as keith at navyboy.com -- Keith Meinhold 1251 NE 84th Street, Miami FL 33138 | 305 804-7064 | keith at navyboy.com From rclark at robertsonclark.com Mon Jan 18 15:38:53 2010 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 14:38:53 -0800 Subject: [6pack] RHD PI TR6 Value In-Reply-To: Message-ID: As a lawyer, I work with insurance companies on claims every day. First, it is important to understand the that the "other guy's" insurance company pays what its insured is legally liable to pay. In most cases, this is the cost to repair or the market value of the damaged property, whatever is less. When an insurer has a claim, it does a market analysis using other sales to determine value much like a real estate appraisal. Easy to do when you have a modern car, more difficult and subject to more dispute when you have a 30 plus year old car. Probably the only benefit to valuing an older vehicle is that mileage and age don't matter as much unless you have an extremely low mileage vehicle, and comparable sales probably don't need to be as recent. Whatever you have, try to find as much information on actual sales for the vehicle as is available from sources such as ebay, Hemmings and clubs. Buyers guide type articles in magazines may offer some support. If the insurer comes up with a price you don't like, its up to you to provide the information to change their mind. All of the above doesn't apply to the insurance you carry on your own vehicle. That is subject to the terms of your policy. Now for the disclaimer, I am not agreeing to be anyone's lawyer and the general information provided above is to provide members of the list with helpful information should they find themselves in similar situations in the future. Consult an attorney in your own state to evaluate your case. Bob Clark '69 TR6 P.S. I doubt right hand drive adds much but I would pay more for the PI than the carbed version. From shawn.loseke at gmail.com Mon Jan 18 17:04:32 2010 From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 17:04:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] RHD PI TR6 Value In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3ea26c6b1001181604j5c0e190en43ddd069c33d0909@mail.gmail.com> Almost five years ago, my then "regular car" (a Ford Bronco II) was rear ended by a Jeep Wrangler. The Jeep hit me at about 40 mph while I was sitting, stopped, at a red traffic light. It was a bumper to bumper hit, two vehicles about the same mass. The body damage was very minimal. Under the body it was more substantial. The rear axle and chassis were twisted slightly, the transfer case (it was four wheel drive) was cracked where the rear drive-shaft had torqued when the rear axle twisted, and the engine fan had been pushed into the radiator. The value of the vehicle was not very high, which I knew, and the cost to repair was higher than the value so his insurance company was declaring the vehicle a total loss and wanted to send me a check. That is where the problem started. The amount they were offering was well below what I could find in a 100 mile radius (I even extended a search to 500 miles) of vehicles like mine, with similar equipment, pre-accident condition, etc... I asked them to up their offer by $500 which was actually splitting the difference from their offer and my research. The adjuster acted like I was asking for $5,000 more and nearly accused me of attempted fraud. He claimed that they made a fair offer based on at least sold vehicles in my area during the last 30 days (this was 3 months after the accident and I had been tracking all the Bronco II's for sale within 100 miles that I could find, its closest match was one 2-wheel drive base model. Mine was a 4wd XLT). I was pretty sure he was lying,or at least pushing the truth, so I asked to see copies of their research. He said he would send them and hung up. Two days later I recieved a check for the amount I was asking for but not a single copy of their 'research'. I guess the important thing here is that you will most likely have to argue with their version of the value of the car. And as Robert states below, if they hit you, their insurance company doesn't care how you have it insured through your own insurance. I guess another option would be to have your insurance repair your car (you would still have to pay your deductible) in accordance to your policy, especially if its for an agreed upon value, and let them go after the other guy and his insurance company. It might at least be worth having a conversation with your insurance agent about it anyway. Shawn > First, it is important to understand the that the "other guy's" > insurance company pays what its insured is legally liable to pay. In > most cases, this is the cost to repair or the market value of the > damaged property, whatever is less. From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Jan 18 17:24:55 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:24:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? In-Reply-To: <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Message-ID: On Sat, 16 Jan 2010, ed wrote: >> They claim that the RHD 150 hp version is less desirable the LHD 100 >> hp verions. What say you? > > The 150 hp RHD model is worth more because it is found in the market place in > far lesser numbers. British car enthusiasts are drawn to RHD because it is > "more authentic" as a show car. In addition it is more desireable in > competition circles because of the higher horsepower. Show me one RHD TR6 in the US that sold at a premium. The only ones I know of that sold for extra $$$ were boxed and shipped to the UK. As far as the value for competition, um, I can say with 100% certainty that this assertion is not true (in the US). In the US, an RHD as a competition car has ZERO value unless it was a race car prior to July 1983 (per SCCA GCR). I know this because I have one and the purchase price was predicated on the actual value... the car had been for sale off and on for about 15 years when I bought it (and brought it back to life as a LHD car because of how I use the car). _maybe_ the car would have some value in vintage circles, but I doubt it. This is because the cars were officially imported to the US as LHD when the cars were new. Most folks in the US that want more power don't use the mechanical injection, they use Webers... except for a very small number of TR6 competitors. The Weber vs. Lucas injection setups that I know of is probably 20:1 or so _in the US_. Maybe more than 20:1. There's just a few folks in the US using the Lucas PI. > I know my RHD Mini 1300 is worth more in the marketplace than a Mini 998 > LHD simply because of performance and rarity.. Minis are different that TR6's. We'll leave it at that. Any increase in value for RHD for a car in the US would be if you were to sell the car to a market that uses RHD (like the UK or Australia) where the cars are sought after and fairly rare. > Ed Bratt > 1976 TR6 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Jan 18 22:13:51 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Mon, 18 Jan 2010 23:13:51 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Message-ID: <00e001ca98c6$30ce1840$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Robert wrote:: > As far as the value for competition, um, I can say with 100% certainty > that this assertion is not true (in the US). In the US, an RHD as a > competition car has ZERO value unless it was a race car prior to July 1983 > (per SCCA GCR). I know this because It would appear that automotive tastes and opinions are far different in other parts of North America. I am not in the US (thankfully), and I probably should have printed that in block letters. Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert M. Lang" To: "ed" Cc: "tidbinbilla" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, January 18, 2010 6:24 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? ---------------- From gsfuqua1 at aol.com Tue Jan 19 01:46:13 2010 From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com (gsfuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 03:46:13 EST Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Message-ID: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Jan 19 04:38:08 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 06:38:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? In-Reply-To: <00e001ca98c6$30ce1840$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> <00e001ca98c6$30ce1840$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Message-ID: On Mon, 18 Jan 2010, ed wrote: > Robert wrote:: > >> As far as the value for competition, um, I can say with 100% certainty that >> this assertion is not true (in the US). In the US, an RHD as a competition >> car has ZERO value unless it was a race car prior to July 1983 (per SCCA >> GCR). I know this because Hi Ed. > It would appear that automotive tastes and opinions are far different in > other parts of North America. That must be. There was a RHD PI TR6 for sale in New Brunswick back in the 90's. It was listed in Hemming Motor News for about a year before it sold. This was at the height of the UK prices for TR6s (ratty TR6s were selling in the UK for about 5k pounds at the time) and the seller in Canada was looking for about $5k CA. That was better than a 50% discount to what the car would sell for in the UK. The car sold to someone in the US (Vermont, I think). And this one was a driver, it ran and drove. I guess my point is that there is no premium for RHD TR6's from my direct experience. Sorry if that indicates some sort of offensinve opinion. > I am not in the US (thankfully), and I > probably should have printed that in block letters. I think that the reason I qualified my statement was that I know you're from Canada. It appears you have some dislike for the US, and I'm sorry to hear that. > Ed regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Tue Jan 19 07:51:17 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 06:51:17 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> Message-ID: <848972.68276.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From waltp58 at comcast.net Tue Jan 19 08:27:42 2010 From: waltp58 at comcast.net (walt) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 10:27:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket Message-ID: <001801ca991b$f15d9810$6601a8c0@home> What have others found to be the best material to "glue" a silicone gasket to the valve cover? I tried hylomar, but it stayed too soft and allowed the gasket to slide around. thanks Walt Philipson '74 TR6 From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Tue Jan 19 09:17:40 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 08:17:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket In-Reply-To: <001801ca991b$f15d9810$6601a8c0@home> Message-ID: <881219.75022.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I would suggest Permatex silicone gasket adhesive. It's what I used on my old fashion cork gasket and it holds up well. JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, walt wrote: From: walt Subject: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket To: "6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 9:27 AM What have others found to be the best material to "glue" a silicone gasket to the valve cover? I tried hylomar, but it stayed too soft and allowed the gasket to slide around. thanks Walt Philipson '74 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From bratt at sasktel.net Tue Jan 19 10:00:22 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 11:00:22 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? References: <1B72EA337E1E49B9AD9F7CBB072A8532@HAL9000> <001501ca9676$c5e55990$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> <00e001ca98c6$30ce1840$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Message-ID: <001001ca9928$e392f100$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Robert wrote: >I think that the reason I qualified my statement was that I know you're >from Canada. It appears you have some dislike for the US, and I'm sorry to >hear that. My comment was within the context of the discussion of RHD cars values. With far more people getting interested in RHD cars to the extent that they are forming RHD Owners Clubs, I think the present market condition is far different than back in the 1990's. If you see any more RHD Triumphs (or any British car), up for sale at bargain prices, let me know. Ed Bratt 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert M. Lang" To: "ed" Cc: "tidbinbilla" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 5:38 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Would you value a RHD PI TR6 over the NA version? From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Jan 19 10:12:06 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 09:12:06 -0800 Subject: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket In-Reply-To: <001801ca991b$f15d9810$6601a8c0@home> References: <001801ca991b$f15d9810$6601a8c0@home> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F2173B05@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Walt: I used Permatex Form-a-gasket number one with my cork gasket and it is still going strong after 3 years. Hylomar is not supposed to set, ever. It is not an adhesive, it is designed to seal any leaks while at the same time allowing the gasket to release nicely during disassembly. This is the difference between a "sealant" and an "adhesive", and Hylomar falls into the sealant category. I use Hylomar between the cork gasket and the cylinder head, and it never leaks a drop of oil. So, form a gasket between the gasket and valve cover, and Hylomar between the gasket and head. Leak free, and releases nicely when I remove the cover to adjust the valves. Unfortunately, I used the last of my Hylomar recently. Hylomar was being distributed by Permatex in the US, but the arrangement came to an end for some reason. Now you can only get Hylomar from some specialty distributors in the US, not from the corner auto parts store. I have switched to Form a gasket number two (never hardens) in place of Hylomar, but I prefer Hylomar because I find it much easier to work with. Time will tell if I am as satisfied with Form a gasket number two as I was with Hylomar. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of walt Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 7:28 AM To: 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket What have others found to be the best material to "glue" a silicone gasket to the valve cover? I tried hylomar, but it stayed too soft and allowed the gasket to slide around. thanks Walt Philipson '74 TR6 From gsfuqua1 at aol.com Tue Jan 19 12:12:57 2010 From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com (gsfuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 14:12:57 EST Subject: [6pack] [Fot] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents Message-ID: Thank you for the information. I had them on a rally TR 4 quite a few years ago. As for functional Vs cosmetic I suppose it would depend on how they are installed. If you just cut a hole and stick them in then it is probably more cosmetic. However is you build a small scoop that funnels air out I believe it will lower the engine bay temp. Guess we'll just have to see how it all comes together. Cheers, Gary In a message dated 1/19/2010 9:37:10 A.M. Central Standard Time, zoboherald at aol.com writes: Correct, Phil. The grilles were cut down pieces from the Herald 948/1200, and it is Neil Revington that supplies kits. ISTR hearing somewhere that these vents ultimately proved more cosmetic than useful? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Triumph 10 / Herald / Sports 6 vehicle consultant, The Vintage Triumph Register: http://www.vtr.org Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database: http://triumph-herald.us -----Original Message----- From: pethier at comcast.net As I recall the works rally cars used Herald grill mesh. The whole assembly can be bought from one of the UK suppliers. Triumphtune? Rimmer? Revington? Sorry but it's still a little early for me. Suggested annual donation $12.96 You are subscribed as gsfuqua1 at aol.com http://www.fot-racing.com Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. From ron at rvar.net Tue Jan 19 13:29:12 2010 From: ron at rvar.net (ron) Date: Tue, 19 Jan 2010 14:29:12 -0600 Subject: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket References: <001801ca991b$f15d9810$6601a8c0@home> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F2173B05@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <9768448CEE4B4AA6884B3D00DB325517@RVAR> We use 3-M Weather Strip Adhesive in black. It adheres to the valve cover and sets up hard. It will work with both cork and neoprene. Ron RVAR ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "walt" ; "6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 11:12 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket > Walt: > > I used Permatex Form-a-gasket number one with my cork gasket and it is > still > going strong after 3 years. > > Hylomar is not supposed to set, ever. It is not an adhesive, it is > designed > to seal any leaks while at the same time allowing the gasket to release > nicely > during disassembly. This is the difference between a "sealant" and an > "adhesive", and Hylomar falls into the sealant category. > I use Hylomar between the cork gasket and the cylinder head, and it never > leaks a drop of oil. So, form a gasket between the gasket and valve cover, > and > Hylomar between the gasket and head. Leak free, and releases nicely when I > remove the cover to adjust the valves. > Unfortunately, I used the last of my Hylomar recently. Hylomar was being > distributed by Permatex in the US, but the arrangement came to an end for > some > reason. Now you can only get Hylomar from some specialty distributors in > the > US, not from the corner auto parts store. I have switched to Form a gasket > number two (never hardens) in place of Hylomar, but I prefer Hylomar > because I > find it much easier to work with. Time will tell if I am as satisfied with > Form a gasket number two as I was with Hylomar. > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of walt > Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 7:28 AM > To: 6 Pack > Subject: [6pack] silicone valve cover gasket > > What have others found to be the best material to "glue" a silicone gasket > to the valve cover? I tried hylomar, but it stayed too soft and allowed > the > gasket to slide around. > > thanks > > Walt Philipson > > '74 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rgh at vvm.com From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jan 19 21:40:24 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:40:24 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <848972.68276.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <45bd6.6f546e39.3886cb55@aol.com> <848972.68276.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEAABD@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may have drooled on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:51 AM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jan 20 10:24:13 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:24:13 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEAABD@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car with the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be a no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location it was at. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: January 19, 2010 11:40 PM To: Jim Jones; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may have drooled on it. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Tuesday, January 19, 2010 9:51 AM To: fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents Do you have a link to a picture of these vents? JJ --- On Tue, 1/19/10, gsfuqua1 at aol.com wrote: From: gsfuqua1 at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents To: fot at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net, tony at tonydrews.com, N197TR4 at cs.com Date: Tuesday, January 19, 2010, 2:46 AM I am looking for a set of the chrome grill vents that many of the Rally TR 4's used. As I recall they were slightly squarish in size and had a large checker board grill affect. The idea being to let some of the engine bay heat be carried out through the side wings or fenders. The fit flush with the side of the fender or wing and extend inward into the engine bay. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Cheers, Gary From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 20 11:01:02 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 12:01:02 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <82E950ED41C24F6D9EB541AFD918C658@ranteer.local> I just want to know how he convinced his wife to let him remove a towel rack from the bathroom and put it on the front of his car . . . -------------------------------------------------- From: "Mark Hooper" Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 11:24 AM To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents > That's a nice look. Question - How does one get street papers for a car > with > the original bumper removed? In most places I have heard of that would be > a > no-no. The picture makes it seem that the car was driven to the location > it > was at. > > Mark > 1972 TR6 > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) > Sent: January 19, 2010 11:40 PM > To: Jim Jones; fot at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; > 6pack at autox.team.net; tony at tonydrews.com; N197TR4 at cs.com; gsfuqua1 at aol.com > Subject: Re: [6pack] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > Here is a TR4 with those vents installed. I liked this TR so much I may > have > drooled on it. > > http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/TR4.jpg > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 20 11:42:52 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 10:42:52 -0800 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <82E950ED41C24F6D9EB541AFD918C658@ranteer.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> <82E950ED41C24F6D9EB541AFD918C658@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F224587B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Oliver: I thought it was a rather neat solution as to what to do with the left over bumper mounting locations. OK, so it looks a little home made, it still was a neat job and let him have mounting points for the driving lights. I wish I was that clever. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 10:01 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents I just want to know how he convinced his wife to let him remove a towel rack from the bathroom and put it on the front of his car . . . From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 20 13:06:26 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 20:06:26 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F224587B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local> <82E950ED41C24F6D9EB541AFD918C658@ranteer.local> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F224587B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEB1B9@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> That look (wing vents, towel rail, air scoop etc) comes from the ex-works rally TR4's built in the early 60's like 4VC which is alive and well. I cant find a good picture of 4VC at the moment but here is a car that was apparently built as a clone (same color even) and you can see the same features. http://www.trregistry.com/start/TR4/reports/indivdata.php?vin=CT88120O Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:43 PM To: oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents Oliver: I thought it was a rather neat solution as to what to do with the left over bumper mounting locations. OK, so it looks a little home made, it still was a neat job and let him have mounting points for the driving lights. I wish I was that clever. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From alanatkinson at hotmail.com Wed Jan 20 13:46:58 2010 From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 15:46:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEB1B9@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local>, <82E950ED41C24F6D9EB541AFD918C658@ranteer.local>, <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F224587B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>, <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEB1B9@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Try www.7vc.co.uk I have some others on my personal site. I'll send links when I get home and have time to ferret it out. > From: stan.foster at hp.com > To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; sumton at sbcglobal.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 20:06:26 +0000 > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > That look (wing vents, towel rail, air scoop etc) comes from the ex-works > rally TR4's built in the early 60's like 4VC which is alive and well. > > I cant find a good picture of 4VC at the moment but here is a car that was > apparently built as a clone (same color even) and you can see the same > features. > > http://www.trregistry.com/start/TR4/reports/indivdata.php?vin=CT88120O > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance > Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:43 PM > To: oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > Oliver: > > I thought it was a rather neat solution as to what to do with the left over > bumper mounting locations. > > OK, so it looks a little home made, it still was a neat job and let him have > mounting points for the driving lights. I wish I was that clever. > > Vance > > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as alanatkinson at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390709/direct/01/ From alanatkinson at hotmail.com Wed Jan 20 16:38:09 2010 From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson) Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 18:38:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEB1B9@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F4389E143E615@CMS01.winhosting.local>, <82E950ED41C24F6D9EB541AFD918C658@ranteer.local>, <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F224587B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>, <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF2815DEB1B9@G4W2732.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: If you have broadband, have a look in here: http://tr250v8.com/250clone/ and here: http://tr250v8.com/250clone/uk/ You might find something in there that gives you the idea. The first directory were provided to me by a guy in the UK and I think he owns the copyright. I took the ones in the /uk/ subdirectory last July at Revington. I'm using them for reference for my 250 project. > From: stan.foster at hp.com > To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; sumton at sbcglobal.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 20 Jan 2010 20:06:26 +0000 > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > That look (wing vents, towel rail, air scoop etc) comes from the ex-works > rally TR4's built in the early 60's like 4VC which is alive and well. > > I cant find a good picture of 4VC at the moment but here is a car that was > apparently built as a clone (same color even) and you can see the same > features. > > http://www.trregistry.com/start/TR4/reports/indivdata.php?vin=CT88120O > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance > Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:43 PM > To: oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents > > Oliver: > > I thought it was a rather neat solution as to what to do with the left over > bumper mounting locations. > > OK, so it looks a little home made, it still was a neat job and let him have > mounting points for the driving lights. I wish I was that clever. > > Vance > > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as alanatkinson at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390710/direct/01/ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jan 21 12:25:17 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 19:25:17 GMT Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents Message-ID: I wonder if it's worth more because it's a RHD? ; ) DT -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 12:06 PM To: Navarrette, Vance, oliver, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents That look (wing vents, towel rail, air scoop etc) comes from the ex-works rally TR4's built in the early 60's like 4VC which is alive and well. I cant find a good picture of 4VC at the moment but here is a car that was apparently built as a clone (same color even) and you can see the same features. http://www.trregistry.com/start/TR4/reports/indivdata.php?vin=CT88120O Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:43 PM To: oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents Oliver: I thought it was a rather neat solution as to what to do with the left over bumper mounting locations. OK, so it looks a little home made, it still was a neat job and let him have mounting points for the driving lights. I wish I was that clever. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Thu Jan 21 12:56:37 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 12:56:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <005901ca9ad3$d8a9e3f0$89fdabd0$@edu> Speaking of RHD, today I saw an older Rolls Royce Silver Cloud, RHD. Off topic, I know, but it was pretty cool. Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 12:25 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents I wonder if it's worth more because it's a RHD? ; ) DT -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 12:06 PM To: Navarrette, Vance, oliver, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents That look (wing vents, towel rail, air scoop etc) comes from the ex-works rally TR4's built in the early 60's like 4VC which is alive and well. I cant find a good picture of 4VC at the moment but here is a car that was apparently built as a clone (same color even) and you can see the same features. http://www.trregistry.com/start/TR4/reports/indivdata.php?vin=CT88120O Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, January 20, 2010 1:43 PM To: oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents Oliver: I thought it was a rather neat solution as to what to do with the left over bumper mounting locations. OK, so it looks a little home made, it still was a neat job and let him have mounting points for the driving lights. I wish I was that clever. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 21 13:00:06 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 12:00:06 -0800 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F22460D2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Dick: I think we have found another topic that ranks up there with the "Which Oil should I use?", "Which Tire should I buy?", and "Which Brake fluid is best?" discussions - long, passionate, and in the end inconclusive. So lets add "Which side should I sit on when driving?" to the list of topics that will cause lots of comments but no conclusion. When we get bored, we can throw that one out there. Hah! Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 11:25 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents I wonder if it's worth more because it's a RHD? ; ) DT From trsix74 at comcast.net Thu Jan 21 13:26:18 2010 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 20:26:18 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F22460D2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <1035441425.2344781264105578366.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> One more to ad to list which has not been touvched for some time. "Which Octane gasoline should I use?" From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Jan 21 15:10:16 2010 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 22:10:16 +0000 Subject: [6pack] RHD / (WAS - Wing or Side Fender Vents) In-Reply-To: <1035441425.2344781264105578366.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F22460D2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>, <1035441425.2344781264105578366.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: I've always thought it would be cool to have a RHD TR6, and thus assumed they would be worth more. This thread has been interesting. Maybe I can afford one some day. My brother often goes to GB and rents cars. I was totally shocked to learn that in this 'opposite world', everything in the car is not completely reversed. I totally assumed that you'd press the gas with your left foot, the clutch with your right foot, that the turn signal switch would be on the right side of the wheel nearest the window, etc, etc, etc. But none of this is true, as you RHDers already know. I guess you do have to change the gears with your left hand, so there's something.... (grin) Sloane :) '69-Six LHD of course _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/196390709/direct/01/ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 21 16:09:54 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 21 Jan 2010 15:09:54 -0800 Subject: [6pack] RHD / (WAS - Wing or Side Fender Vents) In-Reply-To: References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F22460D2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>, <1035441425.2344781264105578366.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F22B3558@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Ya, The only thing that changes is that you shift with your left hand. The shift pattern stays the same (I guess that may be obvious to everybody, but it wasn't to me) so it really is pretty easy to drive a RHD car in the US. Takes about 10 minutes to acclimate. Just don't try to go through a fast food window or a bank teller drive up. (Although a friend suggested the solution is to simply use reverse when using the fast food drive though) The hard part (for me) is learning to drive on the left side of the road. I constantly have to chant "Keep left, look right" and even then I have the overwhelming feeling of panic when another car approaches me "Holy CR at P! That guy is on the wrong side of the road!!!" While my TR6 was and is a LHD, my Mini started life as a RHD. My solution was to convert it so that the steering wheel is now on the (ahem) "correct" side of the car. I am sure the Aussies and Limeys out there will take exception with that last remark . Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im sloane Sent: Thursday, January 21, 2010 2:10 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] RHD / (WAS - Wing or Side Fender Vents) I've always thought it would be cool to have a RHD TR6, and thus assumed they would be worth more. This thread has been interesting. Maybe I can afford one some day. My brother often goes to GB and rents cars. I was totally shocked to learn that in this 'opposite world', everything in the car is not completely reversed. I totally assumed that you'd press the gas with your left foot, the clutch with your right foot, that the turn signal switch would be on the right side of the wheel nearest the window, etc, etc, etc. But none of this is true, as you RHDers already know. I guess you do have to change the gears with your left hand, so there's something.... (grin) Sloane :) '69-Six LHD of course From 75teer6 at gmail.com Fri Jan 22 15:29:24 2010 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 15:29:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wing or Side Fender Vents In-Reply-To: <1035441425.2344781264105578366.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F22460D2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <1035441425.2344781264105578366.JavaMail.root@sz0068a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <83dfea6b1001221429w25506009k1fc778200a3c3640@mail.gmail.com> ... And lets not forget: Should my electric fan be 'Puller' or 'Pusher'? Henri On Thu, Jan 21, 2010 at 1:26 PM, wrote: > One more to ad to list which has not been touvched for some time. "Which Octane gasoline should I use?" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jan 22 16:28:39 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 23:28:39 GMT Subject: [6pack] Quick Ratio Steering Message-ID: The (not so) mystery of what was in the Big Brown Box from VB ended Christmas morning. It was as hoped, the new rack & pinion steering that I had asked Mrs. Claus for. I installed it about three weeks ago, and so here is my tale: I would like to hear from those of you who have one of these on your TR6, or have some seat time with one. As you know, the original R&P has a ratio of 3.5 turns with the steering wheel to go lock-to-lock. The Quick Ratio is 2.5 turns lock-to-lock. I had expected around 30% more effort to turn the wheels, but find that it's at least double this amount. Very noticeable when turning (sharp) corners at slow speed. Changing lanes and such doesn't require that much more effort, in fact it feels very good. There is a heaviness here that makes the car feel well planted. Still, I didn't think this was "right", so I called Victoria British and asked to speak to someone in their tech dept (which is another story). Eventually I got a call back and explained again what I found. I had asked that someone try other QR units on the shelf to compare. To shorten this story, no conclusion was reached, but they said they'd send me another unit if the one I have doesn't loosen up, if I wished, quoting their six month return policy. Any thoughts? Dick From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jan 22 17:03:09 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 22 Jan 2010 16:03:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Quick Ratio Steering In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712F2A68D42@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Dick: There is a damper in the rack that affects steering effort, and it is set up using shims. The damper is spring loaded and is under the large nut on the top of the rack housing. Try loosening that nut (back it off a turn or two) and see if that corrects the problem. If so, order some shims from Rimmer (Parts no 130031, 130032) and shim the plug so that you get the steering effort to your liking. I am thinking that your old damper was so worn that it provided little if any damping, and you are just used to having almost no damping. Of course, it may also have been set up too tight in the first place on the new rack. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 3:29 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Quick Ratio Steering I would like to hear from those of you who have one of these on your TR6, or have some seat time with one. As you know, the original R&P has a ratio of 3.5 turns with the steering wheel to go lock-to-lock. The Quick Ratio is 2.5 turns lock-to-lock. I had expected around 30% more effort to turn the wheels, but find that it's at least double this amount. Very noticeable when turning (sharp) corners at slow speed. Any thoughts? Dick From dnja.rogers at bigpond.com Fri Jan 22 23:25:03 2010 From: dnja.rogers at bigpond.com (David Rogers) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 17:25:03 +1100 Subject: [6pack] TR4 Comm No (was side Vents) References: Message-ID: <6AD75A15-5854-4AB3-88D5-FDF7D8B2CCDD@bigpond.com> There have been some nice pix of TR4s with the side vent modification lately. I suspect a transcription error in the Commission No of the car shown as a repro of 4VC shown in the reference included in Stan Foster's email in Issue 22 of the 6Pack digest. (not Stan's problem). The site below shows the Comm No as CT88120 O and date of manufacture of May 62. The last TR4 produced in 65 had a comm no CT40304. I reckon the site should show CT18820 O, which dovetails with the production numbers in May 62. Just a bit of interesting but probably useless trivia, indicating some of we retirees actually read all the data! Dave Rogers Canberra 62 TR4 72 TR6 http://www.trregistry.com/start/TR4/reports/indivdata.php?vin=CT88120O From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Jan 23 01:34:08 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 08:34:08 GMT Subject: [6pack] Quick Ratio Steering 2 Message-ID: Thanks, Vance (and others)---To keep my first post from exceeding the limit, there's a lot I didn't include. I did everything I could without violating the "no alteration" policy on a return product. This included backing off on the spring loaded damper to where it hardly put a preload on the plunger. I also drilled and tapped the plunger bolt for a grease fitting, and gave it a couple of shots of gear oil. Neither one did much to alleviate the heavyness of the steering. (If I exchange this unit for a replacement, I'll send the new, untapped bolt back with the first one sent). The unit felt heavy to turn, even when out of the workbench. To get the rack centered before installation, and being careful to not bugger the stubby splined pinion shaft, I wrapped it with split copper tubing, and turned it with ViseGrips. It would seem that most of the drag is in the rack tube. I installed it anyway, after adding the grease fitting. It's true that after 35+ years of driving with the original rack& pinion, it had to have loosened up. Still, there was no side-to-side play in this older steering, and the wheels would turn immediately with any movement of the steering wheel. With the QR, even with jack stands under the spring pans , turning was heavy. I hope it loosens up, or I just get used to it. If not, Lang or Gannon may get to bid on it! Further comments welcome. Dick From tomkate at shaw.ca Sat Jan 23 11:15:58 2010 From: tomkate at shaw.ca (Tom Martin) Date: Sat, 23 Jan 2010 10:15:58 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Quick Ratio Steering References: Message-ID: <12FD5B7493074E80B4530775C401C949@tm5720> Hi Guys I've had a quick rack on for 12 years, no problems with steering effort ( unlike my Tr8 with a 7 rack) , when I put it on my wife didn't comment on the change when she drove the car. I would say that this was one of those changes that is a " must do", and really gave the car a nice feel...this one was brought over from GB when they frist showed up in Brtiish mags. cheers Tom 75 Tr6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, January 22, 2010 3:28 PM Subject: [6pack] Quick Ratio Steering > The (not so) mystery of what was in the Big Brown Box from VB ended > Christmas > morning. It was as hoped, the new rack & pinion steering that I had asked > Mrs. > Claus for. > I installed it about three weeks ago, and so here is my tale: > > I would like to hear from those of you who have one of these on your TR6, > or > have some seat time with one. As you know, the original R&P has a ratio > of > 3.5 turns with the steering wheel to go lock-to-lock. The Quick Ratio is > 2.5 > turns lock-to-lock. I had expected around 30% more effort to turn the > wheels, > but find that it's at least double this amount. Very noticeable when > turning > (sharp) corners at slow speed. > Changing lanes and such doesn't require that much more effort, in fact it > feels very good. There is a heaviness here that makes the car feel well > planted. Still, I didn't think this was "right", so I called Victoria > British > and asked to speak to someone in their tech dept (which is another story). > Eventually I got a call back and explained again what I found. I had asked > that someone try other QR units on the shelf to compare. To shorten this > story, no conclusion was reached, but they said they'd send me another > unit if > the one I have doesn't loosen up, if I wished, quoting their six month > return > policy. > > Any thoughts? > > Dick > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tomkate at shaw.ca From apackard68 at att.net Sun Jan 31 14:14:42 2010 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 13:14:42 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Travelers Autocross May 8, 2010 Message-ID: Hi listers: I posted this notice on the forums, but wanted to make sure I hit the listers, too. Triumph Travelers in the SF Bay Area, will be hosting "Brutes and Beauts: Vintage Autocross and Car Gathering" on Saturday, May 8, at Great America Theme Park in Santa Clara, CA. The event is a non- competitive event for cars 25 years old and older and is targeted at those novice or first time autocrossers to come out to an event that's more about getting your cars out and running than the pure competition of an autocross. Triumph Travelers has committed to being the sole workers for the event to allow participants to have a Car Gathering in the corral to check out all the other cars that attend. The event is being sanctioned by Triumph Travelers, but we have a casual partnership with the San Francisco SCCA who is lending us their equipment and three volunteers to help with the planning and execution. If you're in the Bay Area, please come join us. It will be $35 each for 4-5 runs, depending on how many participants we have. Triumph Travelers who are driving can do it for $25 per driver. This will be our first of a hopefully inaugural event that brings Triumph Travelers back to its roots in the sixties when we regularly hosted autocrosses, rallies and hill climbs. We host Triumphest every five years, but don't have any other annual large event like many other clubs. If this catches on, it could perhaps become a multi- event series each year and a great way for TTSCC to connect with the car community and earn some money for some more ambitious plans in the club. Email me if anyone has questions. We'll be sure to have plenty of photos and try and get an article published in either 6pack or The Vintage Triumph. Andy Packard CD6746L Brutes and Beauts Event Chairman From ehenningsen at embarqmail.com Sun Jan 31 14:26:36 2010 From: ehenningsen at embarqmail.com (Eric Henningsen) Date: Sun, 31 Jan 2010 16:26:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Selling My 1976 TR6 Message-ID: <4FF06BE275044A259F9346FB6688513E@Office> Recently acquired a BMW M Roadster and unfortunately need to reduce inventory, in this case my fully restored 1976 TR6. I have enjoyed the car greatly and will miss it, but my wife wants her garage space back. I have it listed on ebay auction 130363234876. If anyone knows someone in the club looking please let me know, much prefer this goes to someone within the family, and certainly would prefer to sell outside of the ebay world. Thanks, Carolina_Six 72 MGB 76 TR6 01 BMW M Roadster