From TR250Driver at aol.com Sat Dec 4 17:16:07 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sat, 4 Dec 2010 19:16:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 Door Glass Message-ID: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com> Hey Guys, I shattered the TR6 door glass drivers side. I managed to get the panel off and most of the glass pieces out. Now I am curious on how to proceed? I can take the metal piece that holds the bottom of the glass out now that no glass is attached. It as rubber surrounding the glass bottom that all fits in a groove. Do I install the new glass first with this out of the door? Do I put it back in the door and try to install the glass with it in place? I am clueless, Darrell This is justified punishment for my slamming the Six door way too hard. Wham, I really had no idea one could shatter the glass into a zillion little pieces. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Dec 5 07:34:16 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 09:34:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 Door Glass In-Reply-To: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com> References: <5c703.39991ad5.3a2c33c7@aol.com> Message-ID: <201012050934.16944.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday, December 04, 2010 07:16:07 pm TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > I shattered the TR6 door glass drivers side. I managed to get the panel > off and most of the glass pieces out. Now I am curious on how to proceed? > I can take the metal piece that holds the bottom of the glass out now that > no glass is attached. It as rubber surrounding the glass bottom that all > fits in a groove. Do I install the new glass first with this out of the > door? Do I put it back in the door and try to install the glass with it > in place? > I am clueless, > Darrell > This is justified punishment for my slamming the Six door way too hard. > Wham, I really had no idea one could shatter the glass into a zillion > little pieces. Darrel, I am not sure if this is the answer you require, but after performing that task about a month ago I can say is that the metal bar should be attached to the glass first to insure it is in the correct location then you can then remove the 7 bolts that connect the window hardware and then slide the glass in from above. Also loosen the bolts that hold the window guides. It is best to have some help in attaching the window hardware to the metal window guide. If I remember correctly, I slid on the rear most part of the hardware to the guide then the front. The rest is just aligning the window with the hardware attachments and then tightening the glass guides to insure proper movement up and down. Now, my glass already had the metal guide bar attached. I am sure someone has the measurements of where to place the bar. Just remember to orientate the bar so the guide groves are facing inward. Bob From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Dec 5 12:32:23 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 11:32:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TBI Setup for sale Message-ID: <142781.36356.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If anyone out there is interested in buying a complete TBI set up for $500 contact me off list. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 From TRDOCTOR at aol.com Sun Dec 5 13:00:05 2010 From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com) Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 15:00:05 EST Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 Door Glass (TR250Driver@aol.com) Message-ID: <7be2b.30860bf4.3a2d4945@aol.com> Darrell, Welcome to tempered glass. It is heat treated as opposed to lamination as the windshield is done. My suggestion would be to just take the mechanism to a glass shop and have them do it. Not much $ when I had mine done. Sam Green Country Triumphs In a message dated 12/5/2010 1:25:03 P.M. Central Standard Time, 6pack-request at autox.team.net writes: Hey Guys, I shattered the TR6 door glass drivers side. I managed to get the panel off and most of the glass pieces out. Now I am curious on how to proceed? I can take the metal piece that holds the bottom of the glass out now that no glass is attached. It as rubber surrounding the glass bottom that all fits in a groove. Do I install the new glass first with this out of the door? Do I put it back in the door and try to install the glass with it in place? I am clueless, Darrell This is justified punishment for my slamming the Six door way too hard. Wham, I really had no idea one could shatter the glass into a zillion little pieces. From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Sun Dec 5 18:15:40 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Sun, 5 Dec 2010 17:15:40 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] springs - back to stock? Message-ID: <918760.92691.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My car has a set of Goodparts springs and the suspension uses the nylatron bushes. Great for handling on smooth winding roads ... if you can find any. Maybe I'm succumbing to dottage from my advancing years, but the car is starting to be painful to drive much of the time. I'm going to install poly bushes front and rear and go back to stock springs with poly packing rings. My questions are: 1.) Will this produce a more reasonable ride on my crumbling local roads? 2,) If so, whose "stock" springs most closely achive the correct stock height? I have the original springs, but I presume that these have probably sagged already. Jim From jimmble at roadrunner.com Tue Dec 7 07:22:29 2010 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (jimmble at roadrunner.com) Date: Tue, 7 Dec 2010 9:22:29 -0500 Subject: [6pack] springs - back to stock? In-Reply-To: <918760.92691.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20101207142229.IYVMW.139545.root@hrndva-web03-z01> My experience is that it takes some rubber in the suspension to smooth the ride for more comfort. I like to go poly in the top front, and rubber in the lowers. A mix of poly front and rubber rear diff mounts and rubber in the trailing arms. Ride quality is a personal thing, so YMMV. ---- Jim Jones wrote: > My car has a set of Goodparts springs and the suspension uses the nylatron > bushes. Great for handling on smooth winding roads ... if you can find any. > Maybe I'm succumbing to dottage from my advancing years, but the car is > starting to be painful to drive much of the time. I'm going to install poly > bushes front and rear and go back to stock springs with poly packing rings. My > questions are: > > 1.) Will this produce a more reasonable ride on my crumbling local roads? > > 2,) If so, whose "stock" springs most closely achive the correct stock height? > I have the original springs, but I presume that these have probably sagged > already. > > Jim > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimmble at roadrunner.com > -- Jim Franks Too many projects, too little time. No good deed goes unpunished. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Dec 7 13:36:32 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 07 Dec 2010 20:36:32 GMT Subject: [6pack] springs - back to stock? Message-ID: Jim---I too am aware of the crumbling road conditions. At one time in Ca. we rode on billiard tops, and firmer springs, shocks and bushings, along with shorter sidewalls were a decent tradeoff for better handling. Sadly, this is not so, lately. Yes, going back to new, stock springs should give you back some of the compliance in your ride. Also consider some of the other things, above. No doubt your original springs aren't worth re-installing. You can still get new ones from TSI and TRF, and other TR6 parts suppliers. Can't say which one offers the closest to the ride you're looking for. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Sent: Sunday, December 5, 2010 5:15 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] springs - back to stock? My car has a set of Goodparts springs and the suspension uses the nylatron bushes. Great for handling on smooth winding roads ... if you can find any. Maybe I'm succumbing to dottage from my advancing years, but the car is starting to be painful to drive much of the time. I'm going to install poly bushes front and rear and go back to stock springs with poly packing rings. My questions are: 1.) Will this produce a more reasonable ride on my crumbling local roads? 2,) If so, whose "stock" springs most closely achive the correct stock height? I have the original springs, but I presume that these have probably sagged already. Jim _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Dec 8 13:37:49 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 08 Dec 2010 20:37:49 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: springs - back to stock? Message-ID: Original reply got lost? -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Tuesday, December 7, 2010 12:36 PM To: Jim Jones, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] springs - back to stock? Jim---I too am aware of the crumbling road conditions. At one time in Ca. we rode on billiard tops, and firmer springs, shocks and bushings, along with shorter sidewalls were a decent tradeoff for better handling. Sadly, this is not so, lately. Yes, going back to new, stock springs should give you back some of the compliance in your ride. Also consider some of the other things, above. No doubt your original springs aren't worth re-installing. You can still get new ones from TSI and TRF, and other TR6 parts suppliers. Can't say which one offers the closest to the ride you're looking for. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Sent: Sunday, December 5, 2010 5:15 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] springs - back to stock? My car has a set of Goodparts springs and the suspension uses the nylatron bushes. Great for handling on smooth winding roads ... if you can find any. Maybe I'm succumbing to dottage from my advancing years, but the car is starting to be painful to drive much of the time. I'm going to install poly bushes front and rear and go back to stock springs with poly packing rings. My questions are: 1.) Will this produce a more reasonable ride on my crumbling local roads? 2,) If so, whose "stock" springs most closely achive the correct stock height? I have the original springs, but I presume that these have probably sagged already. Jim _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From wcwellbaum at cox.net Thu Dec 9 07:02:20 2010 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 06:02:20 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake Servo Question Message-ID: My Brake Servo is starting to make some sort of clicking noise when the brake pedal is depressed and released. Does this mean it is on its way out? What are the typical signs that the servo needs rebuilt/replaced? Can I get a recommendation on who to send it off to for a rebuild? Apple Hydraulics? (Yes, this has been covered numerous times before--but I didn't save the information) Second question: I just replaced the master cylinder with a new unit from Moss. I now find a little puddle of brake fluid on top of the reservoir cap after a drive. I've taken to putting a small paper towel "diaper" tied to the cap until I find a remedy. When I pump the brake pedal I notice the fluid "spurts" against the reservoir cap. What would cause this? Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org From v.navarrette at comcast.net Thu Dec 9 10:37:28 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 09:37:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake Servo Question In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <7D949B15AFA9494DB026C45BA02EE318@HOMEBREW1> Bill: You have some air in your system. When you depress the pedal, the air compresses, when you release the peddle the air expands sharply enough (like a spring that is suddenly released) to push the brake fluid up against the cap. If your brake pedal seems firm, I would guess that the air is in your rear brake lines, where it has little effect on pedal feel. The front brakes do the lions share of the work, so air in the back brake lines has a commensurately smaller impact on performance and feel. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum Sent: Thursday, December 09, 2010 6:02 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake Servo Question Second question: I just replaced the master cylinder with a new unit from Moss. I now find a little puddle of brake fluid on top of the reservoir cap after a drive. I've taken to putting a small paper towel "diaper" tied to the cap until I find a remedy. When I pump the brake pedal I notice the fluid "spurts" against the reservoir cap. What would cause this? Bill Wellbaum From dc714 at comcast.net Thu Dec 9 14:43:47 2010 From: dc714 at comcast.net (dc714 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 21:43:47 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake Servo Question In-Reply-To: <1260566336.457834.1291930908601.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <1725079764.457923.1291931027907.JavaMail.root@sz0149a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> I didn't have any signs (or recognize any) until I saw fluid on the carpet under the steering column. The servo was leaking and dripping inside the cabin. I sent it back east, Indiana maybe. I'm at work and don't have the name or address of the place I sent it. I'm sure someone else will have the info for you. If not, I'll send it later when I get home. A lot of folks from the 6pack forums have sent theirs there. Dennis '72 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Wellbaum" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, December 9, 2010 6:02:20 AM Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake Servo Question My Brake Servo is starting to make some sort of clicking noise when the brake pedal is depressed and released. B Does this mean it is on its way out? B What are the typical signs that the servo needs rebuilt/replaced? B Can I get a recommendation on who to send it off to for a rebuild? B Apple Hydraulics? (Yes, this has been covered numerous times before--but I didn't save the information) Second question: B I just replaced the master cylinder with a new unit from Moss. B I now find a little puddle of brake fluid on top of the reservoir cap after a drive. B I've taken to putting a small paper towel "diaper" tied to the cap until I find a remedy. B When I pump the brake pedal I notice the fluid "spurts" against the reservoir cap. B What would cause this? Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas baclv.org _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/dc714 at comcast.net From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Thu Dec 9 16:33:49 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Thu, 9 Dec 2010 15:33:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TBI Setup sold Message-ID: <801390.46620.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Thanks for all the interest but I have sold the TBI setup to Terry Geiger. Mike Lunsford From janah at att.net Fri Dec 10 17:42:24 2010 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Fri, 10 Dec 2010 19:42:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake Servo Question Message-ID: <99D5BDE405D54D18A2DA1EB8510D4BC0@p4home> I didn't have any signs (or recognize any) until I saw fluid on the carpet under the steering column. The servo was leaking and dripping inside the cabin. Hi Dennis- For the servo to leak into your car, the master cylinder has to be leaning by, the servo has to be full of brake fluid and the diaphragm has to be shot. Then brake fluid will leak out of the servo on to your foot inside the car. The most common source of fluid leakage into the cockpit is the clutch master cylinder. The seals will fail and beake fluid will drip out onto your sneaker and eat the paint off. Ask me how I know? These guys are quality rebuilders of the TR6 brake servos. Brake Materials and Parts Inc. 800 Sherman Boulevard, Fort Wayne, IN 46808-2877 (260) 426-3331 These guys will blast, paint and rebuild your servo for far less money than a new one could cost. They can also access all the parts that are not included on the rebuild kits from the parts houses. Regards, John Cyg. CC59527LO 70 Damson From dave at ranteer.com Sat Dec 18 22:02:53 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 23:02:53 -0600 Subject: [6pack] driveshaft/prop shaft removal In-Reply-To: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1> References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1> Message-ID: ?for the third time in about 10 years vibration was caused by a bad u joint/prop shaft. makes me seriously consider a goodparts unit! and, since I asked this question, I will answer it definitively. to remove the drive shaft, you must remove either the exhaust, dif, or tranny (pick one) From dave at ranteer.com Sat Dec 18 22:16:52 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2010 23:16:52 -0600 Subject: [6pack] lug nuts In-Reply-To: References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1> Message-ID: <4AD8E92DD00341889C64EB9D1F45E0A9@ranteer.local> o;?hi, all. Ibm thinking of replacing the chrome lug nuts (72 TR6 b stock wheels) with something a little less fragile. does anyone know the info I would need to order (size, thread, etc), and does anyone have a recommendation? I was referred to http://www.ezaccessory.com/Default.asp by someone. Ibll try them on Monday unless there is a better place. thanks! From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Dec 19 11:19:56 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sun, 19 Dec 2010 11:19:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] driveshaft/prop shaft removal In-Reply-To: References: <09F8928A56D64237A56DDD7B94C285EF@HOMEBREW1> Message-ID: <5F24E9FE-230E-4346-8C40-9FD4093EDA58@comcast.net> > to remove the drive shaft, you must remove either the exhaust, dif, > or tranny > (pick one) Goodparts unit...???? If you mean his LSD differential then obviously the old diff would be out along with the old driveshaft. If you mean his axles then there's no need to take the drive shaft out. So by matter of eliminating removing the tranny or exhaust for using a u-joint related Goodparts unit , I'll pick the diff. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Dec 20 05:57:29 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 20 Dec 2010 04:57:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Lug nuts Message-ID: <584359.20083.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I don't know where you can find different lug nuts but if you intend to keep the stock wheels with the stock centercaps you will have to find some unusual nuts that have a provision for the ring around the nut that holds the center cap on the wheel. Good luck. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 with Panasport wheels From janah at att.net Wed Dec 22 09:07:02 2010 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 11:07:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info Message-ID: <559E14BC41BA49579F9BA3221AD2BBBC@p4home> Hi All- Does anyone have the specification card for the 150 hp PI cam? Can I get a copy from someone? John Cyg From v.navarrette at comcast.net Wed Dec 22 12:00:33 2010 From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette) Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 11:00:33 -0800 Subject: [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info In-Reply-To: <559E14BC41BA49579F9BA3221AD2BBBC@p4home> References: <559E14BC41BA49579F9BA3221AD2BBBC@p4home> Message-ID: <000301cba20a$832083f0$89618bd0$@navarrette@comcast.net> Application Lift at 1.45 Lift at 1.50 Dur. Intake Exhaust LSA Comment BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------ PI (UK) 0.365 0.388 280 35 65 65 35 105 1969-1971 PI (UK) 0.350 0.372 256 18 58 58 18 110 Post 1971 Carb (USA) 0.321 0.341 240 10 50 50 10 110 Early TR6/GT6 Carb (USA) 0.350 0.372 256 18 58 58 18 110 Post 1972 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Cyganowski Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 8:07 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info Hi All- Does anyone have the specification card for the 150 hp PI cam? Can I get a copy from someone? John Cyg From janah at att.net Wed Dec 22 12:16:50 2010 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 14:16:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info References: <559E14BC41BA49579F9BA3221AD2BBBC@p4home> <000301cba20a$832083f0$89618bd0$@navarrette@comcast.net> Message-ID: <83A340750F3245FBA55454CD62FEE74D@p4home> Anything at 0.050"? Spring pressures? Cyg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vance Navarrette" To: "'John Cyganowski'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 2:00 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info > Application Lift at 1.45 Lift at 1.50 Dur. Intake Exhaust LSA > Comment > BTDC ABDC BBDC ATDC > ---------------------------------------------------------------------------- > ------ > PI (UK) 0.365 0.388 280 35 65 65 35 105 > 1969-1971 > PI (UK) 0.350 0.372 256 18 58 58 18 110 > Post 1971 > Carb (USA) 0.321 0.341 240 10 50 50 10 110 > Early TR6/GT6 > Carb (USA) 0.350 0.372 256 18 58 58 18 110 > Post 1972 > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of John Cyganowski > Sent: Wednesday, December 22, 2010 8:07 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] 150 hp PI Cam Info > > Hi All- > > Does anyone have the specification card for the 150 hp PI cam? > > Can I get a copy from someone? > > John Cyg From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed Dec 22 15:07:37 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Wed, 22 Dec 2010 14:07:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] 150 hp cam Message-ID: <105409.51191.qm@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> have it in my 6. Bit of a beast. Cams are a tradeoff. What do you need to know? I have the cam grinder's spec sheet. Bruce Simms From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Dec 23 19:01:45 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 24 Dec 2010 02:01:45 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: S-2 cam specs Message-ID: John---Attached is an old post on the subject from Kastner. Meanwhile, since I found the S-2 to be a symmetrical cam, setting it up "on the rock" as per the Bentley manual will give the desired timing results. For this cam to be appreciated, it needs good compression and fuel metering. Otherwise it can be a pig at lower rpms. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Dick Taylor Sent: Thursday, December 23, 2010 5:50 PM To: tr6taylor at webtv.net Subject: Fw: Re: S-2 cam specs -----Original Message----- From: Kas Kastner Sent: Thursday, August 8, 2002 8:39 AM To: Dick Taylor Subject: Re: S-2 cam specs All the numbers are after the checking clearance is taken up. Thus you do the checking at the cam follower to eleminate any possible inaccuracies from the valve train. The opening and closing ramps will generally be simular but not necessairly exactly the same. Most of my cams are easy on the opening and the closing to insure the minimum problem with the valve gear but the effective rates are pretty fast in most cases. It is lift per degree that makes the cam effective. Having a nice easy closing of the valve makes a big difference in the valve seat life and the valve also. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dick Taylor" To: "Kas Kastner" Sent: Wednesday, August 07, 2002 10:40 PM Subject: S-2 cam specs Mr. K. A question came up on the 6PACK List as to whether the S-2 cam lobes were symetrical, or not. This, as well as where the 282? of duration starts from. Off the base circle, or after all of the lash is taken up? I told them I'd ask the Boss. Boss? Dick From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Thu Dec 23 22:41:06 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Thu, 23 Dec 2010 21:41:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] 150 hp cam specs In-Reply-To: <317808.70546.qm@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <317808.70546.qm@web180615.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <796092.61463.qm@web65616.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> John: This is from my cam regrinder. These are all the specs I have. He reprofiled the cam from my 73. He said that re-grinding options are limited on the early carb cams (up to CF12500 I believe) Duration Valve Lobe Sep. @.050 Adv Lift Intake 225 280 .375 105 Exhaust 225 280 .375 By "beast" I mean my cam cames on strongly at about 2800 rpm and seems to go as high as I want to go. Great for fast road use. A 270 cam or the later stock cam might be a better choice for the stop and go traffic many folks encounter. The idle on my cam is fine. ________________________________ From: John Cyganowski To: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sent: Thu, December 23, 2010 4:37:11 PM Subject: Bruce- Can I get a copy of your spec sheet? My engine folks are looking for max lift centerline data, duration at 0.050" etc. In what way is it a beast? John Cyg. From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sun Dec 26 17:30:23 2010 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sun, 26 Dec 2010 16:30:23 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 values Message-ID: One of our members passed away about a year ago after completing the frame off restoration of his TR-3. His widow elected to sell the TR-3 and one of our club members has purchased it. This leaves the TR-6 which he also restored about 6 years earlier. At first his widow thought about keeping it for herself but has now decided to sell it as well. On Ebay, Tr-6's seem to fall into two catagories: fresh restorations with no issues with asking prices in the $15-24K range, and unrestored drivers with issues (paint, rust, no oil pressure, etc) ranging from $4.5-9.5K range. This Tr-6 has a rebuilt engine including rebuilt ZS carb, leather interior, new carpets, net vinyl top, all done about 6 years ago with minimal mileage since. New Pirelli tires about 2 years ago--again with minimal mileage as his health was failing and kept him from driving. He installed the HVA 5 speed Toyota gearbox and clutch conversion as well as the tube shock conversion (Konis, I believe) in the rear. Problem is the paint is failing on the bonnet and trunk lid. The driver's side rocker panel will need to be pounded out or replaced. This is a Nevada car and to my knowledge is rust free. I have started and driven the car every couple of months for the owner. I am trying to establish a value of the car which she wants to sell "as is." I'm wondering if anyone would want to help me establish some sort of a base line value of the car--which is in good mechanical shape but will need some attention paid to the paint work. I can send digital pictures to anyone desiring to know more about the car. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Dec 27 08:05:08 2010 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 27 Dec 2010 07:05:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR-6 values In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <80595.57595.qm@web33503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bill: I can only speak from my experience from 2004. At that time I purchased a car in a condition remarkably similar to the car you describe. It was a car from AZ that had some appealing mechanical upgrades (tube shock conversion, headers, SU carbs, etc.), no rust, some panel fit issues, a shabby interior and bad paint. I paid $8900 for that car and I felt that I got a very good deal because it was (and is) rust free and mechanically sound with a documented history going back to the original owner. I don't know how bad the rocker panel is but if I were in the market for a car this would be very appealing to me. Assuming the rest of the paint beyond the hood and trunk is okay, I would be willing to pay somewhere between $10,000 to $13,000. I think this car would be a good deal at that price, provided there is documentation of service, repairs, etc. At that price I could afford to repaint the bad areas and maybe apply body filler and paint to rocker panel. A more picky buyer could invest in a repaint (exterior only?) and still not be underwater. Either way it's a car that could be enjoyed immediately at a reasonable investment. Hope this helps. Jim (snip) From dave at ranteer.com Tue Dec 28 22:21:19 2010 From: dave at ranteer.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 28 Dec 2010 23:21:19 -0600 Subject: [6pack] exhaust In-Reply-To: <201010231151.08387.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <201010231151.08387.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: o;?through the holidays we removed, had refurbished, and replaced the drive shaft. since the exhaust was welded except for the joint at the header, we cut it. not sure that was the best solution, but we have a temporary patch on the pipes now. at some point I think a more permanent solution is called for. my question b has anyone ever pulled the exhaust out, at least up to the x member, or are the bends too much? Ibm trying to figure out if I can just get it welded back together and slide it back in, or if I need to have it in more than one piece. my option is to buy the two sets of pipes (itbs a 72 and has dual exhaust), have the muffler place fabricate a new piece, or weld it back together, maybe using a short piece of slightly larger pipe to join them. the muffler is kind of expensive so Ibd like to keep it, although Ibve thought about having a different one put on or maybe a pair. I like the sound, and really donbt want it louder. thoughts/recommendations? From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Dec 28 23:44:29 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 06:44:29 GMT Subject: [6pack] exhaust Message-ID: Dave---Muffler shops have slip joints to connect the pipes. These seal pretty well, but can be troublesome to disconnect after time. A better way is to have the shop weld on flanges to the open ends. These flanges are then bolted together, which can be more easily separated when the time comes. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Dave Sent: Tuesday, December 28, 2010 9:21 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] exhaust o;?through the holidays we removed, had refurbished, and replaced the drive shaft. since the exhaust was welded except for the joint at the header, we cut it. not sure that was the best solution, but we have a temporary patch on the pipes now. at some point I think a more permanent solution is called for. my question b has anyone ever pulled the exhaust out, at least up to the x member, or are the bends too much? Ibm trying to figure out if I can just get it welded back together and slide it back in, or if I need to have it in more than one piece. my option is to buy the two sets of pipes (itbs a 72 and has dual exhaust), have the muffler place fabricate a new piece, or weld it back together, maybe using a short piece of slightly larger pipe to join them. the muffler is kind of expensive so Ibd like to keep it, although Ibve thought about having a different one put on or maybe a pair. I like the sound, and really donbt want it louder. thoughts/recommendations? _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Dec 29 07:43:33 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 09:43:33 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] exhaust In-Reply-To: References: <201010231151.08387.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Hi, I've managed to pull the entire stock exhaust ('74 TR6) from the downpipes to the stock muffler out through the cruciform plate section of the frame, but it's actually easier the "other way" as you have to push "less" pipe length through the frame opening. But the overriding question is, and sorry to be blunt, why? If you had to hack the pipes to get things out, then you should really think about replacing the pipes. This is exhaust. Dirty, nasty and potentially fatal exhaust. You should make sure that the exhaust will function properly and reliably for as long as possible. Patching the pipes together is not the way to achieve either proper function or reliable service. Used exhaust systems never make a good basis for welding. Ever. I guess the point is, with complete new bolt-in exhausts costing well under $300, and if you only need the intermediate and rear pipes that should cost a heck of a lot less than that, why screw around? You get new metal and if you install it properly, you can / should be able to take it apart should you need to service the various bits in the future. I'd just replace the pipes. It's a lot less "complicated" in the long run. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Dec 29 07:48:25 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 09:48:25 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] exhaust In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Wed, 29 Dec 2010, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Dave---Muffler shops have slip joints to connect the pipes. These seal > pretty well, but can be troublesome to disconnect after time. A better > way is to have the shop weld on flanges to the open ends. These flanges > are then bolted together, which can be more easily separated when the > time comes. As they say in Facebookland: LIKE flanges are good. especially if you take things apart from time-to-time. > Dick regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From janah at att.net Wed Dec 29 19:16:13 2010 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Wed, 29 Dec 2010 21:16:13 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Steritt Smith? Message-ID: <52EC6194EF4549D5AF119D10A53B5FA3@p4home> Does Steritt Smith frequent this list anymore? Does anyone have contact info? Thanks, John Cyg