From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug  1 05:36:05 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 07:36:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mystery part
In-Reply-To: <8CCFF3CFF5B3DF7-94C-104B2@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>
References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com>
	<8CCFF3CFF5B3DF7-94C-104B2@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, July 31, 2010 11:01:40 pm n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
> sounds familiar....front suspension shims....TR4A/TR250/TR6   ???
> 
> 
Thanks everyone for taking a look. But it is not a suspension or brake shim. 
Much too thick. Those shims are very thin.

I am sure it is a distance piece of sorts but for the life of me I cannot 
figure out where it goes!

As I said in the original post, it was in the boot hardware bag so it must be 
for the boot lid.

The only thing I can think is it may be used on the stay but where?

For now I will move on with the restoration with hopes someone who is also 
doing a restoration will come across the part and will remember where it goes!

Bob

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Aug  1 06:21:46 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 08:21:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mystery part
In-Reply-To: <201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net><4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com><8CCFF3CFF5B3DF7-94C-104B2@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>
	<201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <27FFE2955BC343E4BB5B657A0ACC6BEB@BobPC>

When I saw this post yesterday I went out and looked through my trunk and 
found nothing that looked like this piece. The trunk stay does however have 
two funky looking washers. You can see them in the TRF Green Book, Plate FF 
part FF11.  Maybe it's a spacer of some sort that the PO stuck in there for 
some reason. Or maybe it was laying in the trunk doing nothing and it just 
got bagged.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 7:36 AM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Mystery part

> On Saturday, July 31, 2010 11:01:40 pm n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>> sounds familiar....front suspension shims....TR4A/TR250/TR6   ???
>>
>>
> Thanks everyone for taking a look. But it is not a suspension or brake 
> shim.
> Much too thick. Those shims are very thin.
>
> I am sure it is a distance piece of sorts but for the life of me I cannot
> figure out where it goes!
>
> As I said in the original post, it was in the boot hardware bag so it must 
> be
> for the boot lid.
>
> The only thing I can think is it may be used on the stay but where?
>
> For now I will move on with the restoration with hopes someone who is also
> doing a restoration will come across the part and will remember where it 
> goes!
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sun Aug  1 08:00:57 2010
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 10:00:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mystery part
In-Reply-To: <201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com>
	<8CCFF3CFF5B3DF7-94C-104B2@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>
	<201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4C557E19.8060602@roadrunner.com>

MIght be a shim for the boot lid to hinge. Wouldn't be of much use, though.

Jim

On 8/1/2010 7:36 AM, Bob wrote:
> On Saturday, July 31, 2010 11:01:40 pm n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
>    
>> sounds familiar....front suspension shims....TR4A/TR250/TR6   ???
>>
>>
>>      
> Thanks everyone for taking a look. But it is not a suspension or brake shim.
> Much too thick. Those shims are very thin.
>
> I am sure it is a distance piece of sorts but for the life of me I cannot
> figure out where it goes!
>
> As I said in the original post, it was in the boot hardware bag so it must be
> for the boot lid.
>
> The only thing I can think is it may be used on the stay but where?
>
> For now I will move on with the restoration with hopes someone who is also
> doing a restoration will come across the part and will remember where it goes!
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimmble at roadrunner.com
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database 5330 (20100801) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
> http://www.eset.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug  1 10:00:30 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 12:00:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mystery part
In-Reply-To: <4C557E19.8060602@roadrunner.com>
References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<4C557E19.8060602@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <201008011200.30834.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Thanks again for all the replies and boot inspections.

This is the 2nd part that I was not able to identify. The first were 2 spacer 
washers about the same thickness. Not sure if the PO removed them or me. But 
anyway I am making progress on the re-assembly.

Next job is to tackle the dash wiring install. Wish me luck there. Lots of 
wires have to be connected with very little space to work.

I think once the wiring is all connected and the dash install complete it will 
be all downhill from there.

Taking the rest of the weekend off. My back is killing me!

Bob

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Aug  1 10:12:55 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 12:12:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mystery part
In-Reply-To: <201008011200.30834.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net><201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net><4C557E19.8060602@roadrunner.com>
	<201008011200.30834.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <671C7E6DE46842028E022B56D281B448@BobPC>

Bob,
If you don't have the AAW wiring schematic, you can download it for free 
here http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf

It's a much better schematic then the one that came with the car!

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Sent: Sunday, August 01, 2010 12:00 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Mystery part

> Thanks again for all the replies and boot inspections.
>
> This is the 2nd part that I was not able to identify. The first were 2 
> spacer
> washers about the same thickness. Not sure if the PO removed them or me. 
> But
> anyway I am making progress on the re-assembly.
>
> Next job is to tackle the dash wiring install. Wish me luck there. Lots of
> wires have to be connected with very little space to work.
>
> I think once the wiring is all connected and the dash install complete it 
> will
> be all downhill from there.
>
> Taking the rest of the weekend off. My back is killing me!
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From shewfamily at aol.com  Sun Aug  1 10:19:24 2010
From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 12:19:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mystery part
In-Reply-To: <201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <201007311941.17918.yellowtr@adelphia.net><4C54E0F0.5090000@dfn.com><8CCFF3CFF5B3DF7-94C-104B2@webmail-m085.sysops.aol.com>
	<201008010736.06375.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <8CCFFAC710F7F41-1C80-15365@webmail-m103.sysops.aol.com>

Could it be a clip that holds the switch for the trunk light in place?
John Shewmake
'74 TR6
Birmingham, AL






-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, Aug 1, 2010 6:36 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] Mystery part


On Saturday, July 31, 2010 11:01:40 pm n197tr4 at cs.com wrote:
 sounds familiar....front suspension shims....TR4A/TR250/TR6   ???


hanks everyone for taking a look. But it is not a suspension or brake shim.
uch too thick. Those shims are very thin.
I am sure it is a distance piece of sorts but for the life of me I cannot
igure out where it goes!
As I said in the original post, it was in the boot hardware bag so it must be
or the boot lid.
The only thing I can think is it may be used on the stay but where?
For now I will move on with the restoration with hopes someone who is also
oing a restoration will come across the part and will remember where it goes!
Bob
______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
rchive: http://www.team.net/archive
orums: http://www.team.net/forums
nsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shewfamily at aol.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Aug  1 13:09:13 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 01 Aug 2010 19:09:13 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Mystery part
Message-ID: <COL123-DS993FB31CB0DE79933C8FDF4AC0@phx.gbl>

Bob---It may not even be a piece from the TR. (Looks more like a clamp used on a machine bed to secure a part during a machining process).

Dick

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Aug  1 18:06:23 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:06:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010
Message-ID: <BAY123-W4885C3132C6BF49951B5B2BAAD0@phx.gbl>

We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a wonderful
time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans start contest,
winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for around $100 and there
was more stuff we could have done but the days did not have enough hours in
them.  We have been attending this event for about 20 years now and the
general format and the fun level is still the same. What has changed is the
amount of people attending. There is only about a third of the people
attending now as there was in the old days. The drag race and autox events
have a fraction of participants from the early 90's. I pondered this on the
drive back thinking to myself man, there should be a waiting list to get in
this thing for as much fun as we have every year. What has changed over the
years? Is it the economy? Is there just not that many of these old cars
running any more? Has the age of the participants shifted to the point where
doing these types of things with the cars is of no interest any more? Have the
cars become too valuable to drive? What are your thoughts?

Marty

From 70tr6 at comcast.net  Sun Aug  1 18:41:28 2010
From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:41:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W4885C3132C6BF49951B5B2BAAD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W4885C3132C6BF49951B5B2BAAD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <8996BCFB-E3F7-4BAF-B1FC-7CCDDE267700@comcast.net>

Marty,

I can't speak for others, but in my case it's a case of having three kids and
a variety of activities that keep us tied up.  On the other hand, it hasn't
helped that Charles keeps jiggling the dates from year to year in addition to
whether or not it will happen.  This year's dates conflicted with our Canadian
trip.

Hope to see y'all next year.


Ashford Little
70tr6 at comcast.net



On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:06 PM, marty sukey wrote:

> We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a
wonderful
> time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans start
contest,
> winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for around $100 and there
> was more stuff we could have done but the days did not have enough hours in
> them.  We have been attending this event for about 20 years now and the
> general format and the fun level is still the same. What has changed is the
> amount of people attending. There is only about a third of the people
> attending now as there was in the old days. The drag race and autox events
> have a fraction of participants from the early 90's. I pondered this on the
> drive back thinking to myself man, there should be a waiting list to get in
> this thing for as much fun as we have every year. What has changed over the
> years? Is it the economy? Is there just not that many of these old cars
> running any more? Has the age of the participants shifted to the point
where
> doing these types of things with the cars is of no interest any more? Have
the
> cars become too valuable to drive? What are your thoughts?
>
> Marty
> _______________________________________________

From apackard68 at att.net  Sun Aug  1 21:12:29 2010
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 20:12:29 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010
In-Reply-To: <8996BCFB-E3F7-4BAF-B1FC-7CCDDE267700@comcast.net>
References: <BAY123-W4885C3132C6BF49951B5B2BAAD0@phx.gbl>
	<8996BCFB-E3F7-4BAF-B1FC-7CCDDE267700@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3A8C9B9A-3D4A-4C85-ACF6-D0D3572C6E5F@att.net>

I attended with the VTR convention in 2002 and would have repeated,  
but there were always the last minute (for and event of that size)  
decisions on whether or not it would take place.  Now I live near San  
Francisco and East coast events aren't quite an option.  (Wanna buy  
some beach property in Indiana, PA?)  We're planning to go to  
Breckenridge, CO next year, though!

I do think there is quite a bit of hesitation with our owners with  
fewer daily drivers out there that reliably can be trusted with more  
aggressive events.  Consistently at Triumphest, about 20% of  
registrants participate in the autocross.

Andy
CD6746L


On Aug 1, 2010, at 5:41 PM, Ashford Little wrote:

> Marty,
>
> I can't speak for others, but in my case it's a case of having three  
> kids and
> a variety of activities that keep us tied up.  On the other hand, it  
> hasn't
> helped that Charles keeps jiggling the dates from year to year in  
> addition to
> whether or not it will happen.  This year's dates conflicted with  
> our Canadian
> trip.
>
> Hope to see y'all next year.
>
>
> Ashford Little
> 70tr6 at comcast.net
>
>
>
> On Aug 1, 2010, at 8:06 PM, marty sukey wrote:
>
>> We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a
> wonderful
>> time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans start
> contest,
>> winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for around $100  
>> and there
>> was more stuff we could have done but the days did not have enough  
>> hours in
>> them.  We have been attending this event for about 20 years now and  
>> the
>> general format and the fun level is still the same. What has  
>> changed is the
>> amount of people attending. There is only about a third of the people
>> attending now as there was in the old days. The drag race and autox  
>> events
>> have a fraction of participants from the early 90's. I pondered  
>> this on the
>> drive back thinking to myself man, there should be a waiting list  
>> to get in
>> this thing for as much fun as we have every year. What has changed  
>> over the
>> years? Is it the economy? Is there just not that many of these old  
>> cars
>> running any more? Has the age of the participants shifted to the  
>> point
> where
>> doing these types of things with the cars is of no interest any  
>> more? Have
> the
>> cars become too valuable to drive? What are your thoughts?
>>
>> Marty
>> _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/apackard68 at att.net

From dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com  Sun Aug  1 21:13:28 2010
From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com (Dave Waldorf)
Date: Sun, 1 Aug 2010 23:13:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Direction to Hueston Woods Lodge for the TRials
Message-ID: <2838E034EEB44F98BA2C46E327245BED@DavePC>

In this day and age with Mapquest and GPS, it's almost superfluous to
provide directions to anywhere, to say nothing of posting them online.
However some may need to have something short and sweet to print out for  a
caravan, or to give to someone who's not yet joined the computer generation.



To that end, be advised that the Hueston Woods Lodge web site lists
directions to the lodge from every direction.  See:
http://www.huestonwoodsstateparklodge.com/directions-608.html.  One critical
point, US Route 127 is used for the directions from the Cleveland and Toledo
areas, but is referred to in the directions incorrectly as OH 127.



(You'll note that this place is reached by driving on pleasant country roads
for the most part.  This is no Interstate Interchange hotel complex! 8) )



There are 2 construction zones in the Oxford area that may give some pause,
but neither are really a problem.



U.S. Route 27 is CLOSED inside the city limits of Oxford for a major
reconstruction, which is a problem for semi-trucks.  You'll see lots of
signs for detours on US 27 as you approach the Oxford area.  The rest of us
can just use the in-town detour one block over on local streets.  In any
case if you're approaching Oxford from the south the turn on to OH 732 to go
to the lodge is before the construction anyway.



Also OH 73 is reduced to one alternating lane 1 mile east of Oxford due to
bridge construction.  This [i]may[/i] delay some a few minutes if they
decide to go that route.  Although OH 73 is not the most direct route to the
lodge from any direction it is the main access to the City of Oxford from
the east, and people stopping for lunch on their way in may encounter this
construction.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Aug  2 05:20:22 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 07:20:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W4885C3132C6BF49951B5B2BAAD0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY123-W4885C3132C6BF49951B5B2BAAD0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday, August 01, 2010 08:06:23 pm marty sukey wrote:
> We just got back from the summer party and are still grinning. Had a
> wonderful time as usual. Participated in drag racing, poker run, LeMans
> start contest, winery tour, car show, autox, big dinner, and all for
> around $100 and there was more stuff we could have done but the days did
> not have enough hours in them.  We have been attending this event for
> about 20 years now and the general format and the fun level is still the
> same. What has changed is the amount of people attending. There is only
> about a third of the people attending now as there was in the old days.
> The drag race and autox events have a fraction of participants from the
> early 90's. I pondered this on the drive back thinking to myself man,
> there should be a waiting list to get in this thing for as much fun as we
> have every year. What has changed over the years? Is it the economy? Is
> there just not that many of these old cars running any more? Has the age
> of the participants shifted to the point where doing these types of things
> with the cars is of no interest any more? Have the cars become too
> valuable to drive? What are your thoughts?
> 
> Marty
Marty,

I have been planning to attend for the past 3 or 4 years but something always 
comes up.

The past 3 years it was weddings, moving the kids etc. But maybe next year?

The reliability of my 3 and 4 are not an issue. They run like a top and I 
never worry about a breakdown when we are out on a drive. And I am sure the 6 
will be the same (if I ever finish the restoration).

Another problem is my obsession with restoring these cars! I just can't seem 
to stand still at home without a wrench in my hand!

But the 72 6 will be my last project and it looks like I will be retiring next 
year about this time so maybe I can start planning now.

But I wont be doing any autox or dragging that is for sure. My cars are 
drivers for sure but drivers only.

The main reason I really want to attend is to meet folks like you who have 
helped me along the way with answers, ideas and tools.

It seems that after all these years exchanging emails that it would be nice to 
put a face with a name for a change.

Bob

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug  2 10:46:52 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 12:46:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010
In-Reply-To: <201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <BAY123-W4885C3132C6BF49951B5B2BAAD0@phx.gbl>,
	<201008020720.23360.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W9B313DB5434D315E9CF02BAAD0@phx.gbl>

> But I wont be doing any autox or dragging that is for sure. My cars are
> drivers for sure but drivers only.
>
> Bob


Bob and all.  Reconsider this.  Sure there are a group of diehards that go for
broke at these events but that does not mean all entrants have to do that.
Back in the day we used to get a bunch of show cars at these two events.  The
owners drove at a reduced pace and at the end of the weekend the car was still
intact and they were glad they tried it. You wont be the fastest cars at the
drags but line up against a buddy who also does not want to beat on their car
and go down the quarter mile at your pace smiling all the way.  Same at the
autox, there is no reason you cannot do your runs at the same pace you drive
on a fast mountain road tour. There are plenty of us who would be happy to
give the folks who have never autox'd some tips at the events.  Give it some
consideration.

Marty

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Mon Aug  2 16:32:41 2010
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 18:32:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party 2010
Message-ID: <81d0e.2398de12.3988a189@aol.com>

In a message dated 8/1/2010 8:06:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
trmarty at hotmail.com writes:

What are  your thoughts?



Marty,
First Thought? Everyone who attended "Lucked Out Big Time" on the weather,  
good job Dave or whomever ordered that up.  The Mudster Factory never  more 
I hope. Second, shucks, some of us must work, especially during prime time  
vacation season when many conflicts abound.  Therefore early notice is  
important.  Then, I Like the Drive End Movie, and I really like the  Pewter 
Mugs that were once awarded.  Honest Injun, I just put a second  place ribbon 
from 2002, second place in class autocross in my  showcase. I have a few  of 
those thrown about. I believe the downgrade  in awards took some wind out of 
the sails of the Event.  
 
All that being said I am pissed that I had to work.  I think my 70  Spit, 
1296 could have wiped Team Sukey out.  Of course it would  have required a 
good driver which is not me at this time. Then I bet I could  have put it in 
the Show and won something.  Charles is the Best, by  far, I will not miss 
another summer party ever!
Bummed Big Time.
Darrell 

From rwhautomotive at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  2 17:35:41 2010
From: rwhautomotive at yahoo.com (Robert Houseknecht)
Date: Mon, 2 Aug 2010 16:35:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Roadster Factory Party
Message-ID: <376171.74414.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I also attended the Summer Party. I have never complained about anything, ever! 
I think its because I know how much work is involved.
Everytime I've gone, my wife and I have had a great time. We have met some 
people that will be friends forever, pushed my cars to the limit on the drag 
strip and autocross track. (even won at times)
Where else can I enjoy so much (british car related)- even when the weather is 
not so good?
It's a shame the attendance is not what it was years ago.
Marty, I too wondered why.
The thing I noticed - Charles did not seem too involved. To me He should be out 
talking to his customers, checking out their cars and getting to know more 
people. If he did, he might just hear how some of us appreciate what he has done 
for our hobby. He might even get more of us to invest in his company. Maybe he 
did and I just didn't see it. 

Why no featured Marque this year? - Possible more cars attending if featured?
I also didn't see too much support from Indiana Chamber of Commerce or local 
business. Hell, I read
the local newspaper and only saw a blurb about 1" x 2" space mentioning the car 
show.
Hey Guys and Gals, all the comments we've all made probably have merit, but what 
I think we should be talking about how to keep this great event alive. We can't 
expect the party to continue with no participation, small parts sales revenue, 
and little support. Start sending Charles letters or emails with constructive 
comments and good solid ideas. Please don't critisize or complain - Not the way 
to get good results. I hope to see you all soon.
Rob Houseknecht - Batavia, N.Y.
1973 Emerald TR6  &  1980 White Spitfire

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Aug  4 20:21:41 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 4 Aug 2010 22:21:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Empty trailer ohio
Message-ID: <BAY123-W299EC148AEBA382E019287BA900@phx.gbl>

There is a chance I will have an empty open car trailer going to / from the
Oxford Ohio area to the Cleveland Ohio area mid September.  If you need  a
vehicle transported in that general area contact me off list.

Marty

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Aug  7 11:17:33 2010
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 13:17:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Help needed!
Message-ID: <FCA2621007464FCD85257135FE9807CC@AlexPC>

Hi All,

Not exactly Triumph oriented but British none the less.

A member in our club in presently restoring (about 80% complete) a 1970
vintage British reproduction of a 1910 B-Type London Bus.

We believe this to be the only one in the US and the only others are in
museums in the UK.

Needless to say, he has some difficulty in acquiring needed parts and sourcing
information for the restoration. He is a retired journeyman machinist and
makes many of the parts he needs. (He is not on the internet or have any of
those new fangled contraptions......we're working on that)

Unfortunately, when it comes to rubber parts it gets even harder. The good
news is the few reproductions that were made, were made in the 70's.

We are presently trying to source a rubber sleeve, grommet type part with the
# P11-2803 that goes on the air cleaner for the engine. The engine is a 4
cylinder diesel Leyland (tractor engine we believe), vintage 1970.

If anyone has any sources of information on this type engine and associated
parts, please advise asap.

For your enjoyment, I have attached a link so you can see what it is and looks
like. This vehicle has quite a history and Classic Motorsports will be doing a
piece on it. Additionally, I will be placing the restoration story, pictures
and history on our club website in the near future. So if anyone wants to see
this, just drop me an email.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/File:B43OleBillatIWMLondon.jpg

Thanks in Advance,
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Aug  7 12:12:56 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 14:12:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Help needed!
In-Reply-To: <FCA2621007464FCD85257135FE9807CC@AlexPC>
References: <FCA2621007464FCD85257135FE9807CC@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <BDE63A1ABFDB413FB09580CE6E058CAC@Robert>

Hi All,

SNIP: Not exactly Triumph oriented but British none the less.

A member in our club in presently restoring (about 80% complete) a 1970
vintage British reproduction of a 1910 B-Type London Bus.

We believe this to be the only one in the US and the only others are in
museums in the UK. Etc........


Response:
Have you tried asking this group for help?   http://www.britishbusclub.org

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Aug  7 12:58:35 2010
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 14:58:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Help needed!
In-Reply-To: <FCA2621007464FCD85257135FE9807CC@AlexPC>
References: <FCA2621007464FCD85257135FE9807CC@AlexPC>
Message-ID: <AD9FFCC13C3A4C55AB755EF71D7F92F3@Robert>

Try these guys

http://www.britishbusclub.org

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Aug  7 15:25:25 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 17:25:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] superlite lug wrench
Message-ID: <201008071725.26641.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Posted this query on the 6-pack forum but no answers.

I installed my 15/6 superlites the other day but noticed that the lugs fit 
flush with the wheels when all tightened up. I used a 3/8 inch drive 3/4 inch 
craftsman socket which fit ok but for the road I dont want to have to make 
sure I pack my 3/4 socket and breaker bar + short extension.

I have looked at some tool sites trying to find a combo type wrench that is 
thin walled enough to fit the superlite lug.

Does anyone with superlites know of a single wrench that I could use in lieu 
of my socket, extension and breaker bar setup.

If worse comes to worse, I guess I could go down to sears and get an new 
socket, extension and breaker bar but that would add up since I am buying the 
single parts.

Thanks,

Bob

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Sat Aug  7 16:43:43 2010
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian@asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 17:43:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Carb Rebuild Story
Message-ID: <20100807224304.65547187643@autox.team.net>

After just shy of 2 months at Paltech in Ohio, I received my carbs and
manifold back this week. What a relief to find that they ran great right out
of the box. The workmanship and finish are exemplary. If you can afford the
down-time and need similar work done, I highly recommend this company. Those
on the list that recommended this company to me were right.  My only
complaint was that the shipment packaging was no where near the quality I
would expect for my delicate and pricey cargo.  Pictures of carbs and
manifold on my Facebook page.
 
On a different note, FYI I was able to cure a long-time differential clunk
problem by replacing the side gear bushings (now fiber) and planet gear
bushings (brass) to tighten up this part of the gear train. Installed
pinion/crown gear backlash is .005 average. I was also able to replace a
single cracked carrier bearing cap (I received an entire used unit from Ted
Schumacher - another one I highly recommend). I got lucky because one of the
caps on the unit I received was almost exact in critical dimensions to the
cracked one. I think I dodged a bullet, but time will tell.
 
Brian J. Alwin
1972 TR6 CC79085

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Aug  7 19:16:43 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 08 Aug 2010 01:16:43 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Wiper Switch Repair
Message-ID: <COL123-DS9B9A80F9BAE1EABFFF7FEF4930@phx.gbl>

List---Several months ago one on this list went to a great deal of trouble to
show us how he repaired his wiper dash switch. (The one that also contains the
washer momentary switch) I thought I had placed his drawings in a "Saved"
file, but now cannot find it. If someone has a copy of this, or the originator
would be so kind, I'd like to see it again. This time I will print it out!
Thanks.

Dick

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug  7 20:08:39 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 7 Aug 2010 22:08:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carb Rebuild Story
In-Reply-To: <20100807224304.65547187643@autox.team.net>
References: <20100807224304.65547187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8F106C7C84F94861B56153A50DA1B33C@laptopPC>

I found Jeff back in '06 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CarbRebuild2006.htm) and have been 
recommending him ever since. He does a super job on both the refinishing and 
the rebuilding.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 running with
Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed
Nissan Diff & CVJs
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Brian at asmoothmove.biz" <brian at asmoothmove.biz>
Sent: Saturday, August 07, 2010 6:43 PM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Carb Rebuild Story

> After just shy of 2 months at Paltech in Ohio, I received my carbs and
> manifold back this week. What a relief to find that they ran great right 
> out
> of the box. The workmanship and finish are exemplary. If you can afford 
> the
> down-time and need similar work done, I highly recommend this company. 
> Those
> on the list that recommended this company to me were right.  My only
> complaint was that the shipment packaging was no where near the quality I
> would expect for my delicate and pricey cargo.  Pictures of carbs and
> manifold on my Facebook page.
>
> On a different note, FYI I was able to cure a long-time differential clunk
> problem by replacing the side gear bushings (now fiber) and planet gear
> bushings (brass) to tighten up this part of the gear train. Installed
> pinion/crown gear backlash is .005 average. I was also able to replace a
> single cracked carrier bearing cap (I received an entire used unit from 
> Ted
> Schumacher - another one I highly recommend). I got lucky because one of 
> the
> caps on the unit I received was almost exact in critical dimensions to the
> cracked one. I think I dodged a bullet, but time will tell.
>
> Brian J. Alwin
> 1972 TR6 CC79085
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Sun Aug  8 07:05:12 2010
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 09:05:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Bearing clearances and Plastiguage
Message-ID: <21E4A3EC98B5430BAA536724F03A7C58@JaneShawPC>

Have lower oil pressure for a rebuilt engine than I would like.

What main and connecting rod bearing clearances are normal?

Used micrometer on all reground crank surfaces giving  0.010 undersize with
mains @  2.303" and crankpins @ 1.865" . Stupidly didn't check clearances
during installation assuming shells were 0.010  undersized as stated on the
box.

Also, one of the car mags says Plastigage is not accurate. See
http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_0701_plastigage_vs_micrometer/index.html
Jerry
'74 TR6

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Aug  8 14:29:53 2010
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:29:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carb Rebuild Story
In-Reply-To: <20100807224304.65547187643@autox.team.net>
References: <20100807224304.65547187643@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <201008081629.54739.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday, August 07, 2010 06:43:43 pm Brian at asmoothmove.biz wrote:
> After just shy of 2 months at Paltech in Ohio, I received my carbs and
> manifold back this week. What a relief to find that they ran great right
> out of the box. The workmanship and finish are exemplary. If you can
> afford the down-time and need similar work done, I highly recommend this
> company. Those on the list that recommended this company to me were right.
>  My only complaint was that the shipment packaging was no where near the
> quality I would expect for my delicate and pricey cargo.  Pictures of
> carbs and manifold on my Facebook page.
> 
> On a different note, FYI I was able to cure a long-time differential clunk
> problem by replacing the side gear bushings (now fiber) and planet gear
> bushings (brass) to tighten up this part of the gear train. Installed
> pinion/crown gear backlash is .005 average. I was also able to replace a
> single cracked carrier bearing cap (I received an entire used unit from Ted
> Schumacher - another one I highly recommend). I got lucky because one of
> the caps on the unit I received was almost exact in critical dimensions to
> the cracked one. I think I dodged a bullet, but time will tell.
> 
> Brian J. Alwin
> 1972 TR6 CC79085
> _______________________________________________


Brian,

I decided to go with the Hitachi SU HS6 upgrade offered by Jeff.
I posted a photo on the 6-pack list. 
http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=15146&highlight=

Scroll down to you see the post with the engine bay in French blue with the 
yellow TR3 and white TR4 avatar. That is me.

I agree with you, Jeff sure does nice work.
And yesterday I finally completed enough of the wiring of the dash to give the 
engine a start and it started right up ran pretty good for a freshly rebuilt 
engine, dist, and carbs. Still needs some sorting out but that will happen 
when I can get it out of the garage.

Bob

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Sun Aug  8 14:45:07 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 16:45:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wiper Switch Repair
Message-ID: <D254EEC0-583F-4101-AE60-2EC82832B161@nc.rr.com>

Dick,
I emailed my pics to you directly, but for the record I'll repost.
The fix still works fine.

>From Dec 8, 2009:

QUOTE
Okay, here's what I did to fix the wiper-washer switch which was rotating with
the knob. I epoxied a flat washer onto the switch body between the gray cup
and the switch body and installed a #8 set screw to act as a pin all the way
through the cup, washer, and case of the switch body. Caution: I drilled the
body for the set screw near the contacts, but there are moving bits just
inside the case of the switch body, so that pin must not extend past the inner
case surface, or the switch won't rotate. Next time, I'll try drilling the
hole on the opposite side from the contacts. Might not be anything there.
Dunno. Not curious enough to go drill another hole, though. Note: the shoulder
on the shaft boss (where the center hole in the flat washer sits) is about
5/8" so I Dremmelled-out a 1/2" washer to fit. Gotta work with what you have
on hand.
http://img31.imageshack.us/img31/9012/wiperswmods.jpg

In order to get the nut off and on without bungin' everything up by tryin' to
do it with a slotted screwdriver, you need to make a simple/cheap tool. There
are a number of approaches, but I made a simple spanner. The nut has slots, so
I modified one end of a short PVC pipe making little protrusions I'm callin'
"nips." Heat-treated steel would be better, but the PVC piece was sittin' in
my trash box, so ...
http://img35.imageshack.us/img35/9302/wipertool.jpg

Actually, I think the simplest approach would be to cut a piece of sheet
metal, put it where I put the flat washer, then bend some ears over on both
pieces.
Maybe a couple star washers would work. Dunno.

Everything checks for isolation/continuity, so I'll put the switch problem
aside and work for a while installing the exhaust. When I figure out where to
mount that intermediate hanger, I'll post a pic.

Doug Morris, NC
'74 TR6 w/OD

/QUOTE

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Sun Aug  8 19:03:27 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Sun, 8 Aug 2010 18:03:27 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Bearing clearances and Plastiguage
In-Reply-To: <21E4A3EC98B5430BAA536724F03A7C58@JaneShawPC>
Message-ID: <79DC1A2D850041C1A4D8CC262B350C73@HOMEBREW1>

	Jerry:

	Oil pressure is sensitive to lots of things, including oil
viscosity and the spring pressure of the relief valve.

	What type of oil are you running?

	Plastigauge is accurate enough to get the job done, although
there are more accurate ways of getting things measured plastiguage is
cheap and easy. For the occasional driveway mechanic, it is definitely
the way to go. I have built several engines, and in every case,
plastigauge indicated that the crank journals were spot on. Could be
dumb luck, but it seems to work for me. 

	Vance 



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jerry C Shaw
Sent: Sunday, August 08, 2010 6:05 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Bearing clearances and Plastiguage


Have lower oil pressure for a rebuilt engine than I would like.

What main and connecting rod bearing clearances are normal?

Used micrometer on all reground crank surfaces giving  0.010 undersize
with
mains @  2.303" and crankpins @ 1.865" . Stupidly didn't check
clearances
during installation assuming shells were 0.010  undersized as stated on
the
box.

Also, one of the car mags says Plastigage is not accurate. See
http://www.carcraft.com/techfaq/116_0701_plastigage_vs_micrometer/index.
html
Jerry
'74 TR6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Aug  9 08:28:40 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 10:28:40 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Bearing clearances and Plastiguage
In-Reply-To: <21E4A3EC98B5430BAA536724F03A7C58@JaneShawPC>
References: <21E4A3EC98B5430BAA536724F03A7C58@JaneShawPC>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1008091012090.1943@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I haven't had a chance to flush this thread out completely, but if you 
haven't tried this yet, it will PROBABLY solve your low o.p.:

blueprint your oil pump.

The Bentley manual lists all the clearances in the oil pump. That's all 
really kool and everything, but unless your motor has a gazillion miles on 
it, the rotor clearances are _probably) okay and close to spec.

However, there is a fix that I've done a bunch of times that is easy and 
pretty much automatically raises o.p pressure 10 psi everywhere. Drop the 
pan and pull the oil pump. the bottom cover of the oil pump will likely 
have scoring. On a flat surface with some emery cloth of very find wet or 
dry (400 or 600 grit) and some OIL, polish the cover 'till all evidence of 
scoring is gone. Clean the part three times with brake cleaner (make sure 
there is no grit left on the surface (hopefully, for obvious reasons)). 
Reassemble.

I did this a couple of years ago when my oil pressure idiot light kept 
coming on at idle (motor hot). Oil pressure went from under 10 psi to 
about 25 psi. If your oil pump rotors are knackered, you can buy new guts 
for something like $30 from the various sources. You do not need a new 
pump body unless the outer rotor clearance is way off - the inner rotor 
tips to the rotating body clearances are most important, then the pump to 
body clearance and the only one (in my experience) that matters is the 
rotor to bottom clearance. Also note that if the rotor is too deep in the 
pump body (scoring on the upper end of the body) you can reduce the 
"height" of the pump body be polishing as described above, BUT you must 
make sure the pump body is square as well as flat or you'll dish the 
bottom cover and you'll be back to crappy oil pressure in due time.

Cost: $5, $10 if you screw up the oil pan gasket (or (shame of shames) you 
glued it to the pan and block).

Time: 1 2 hours MAX. Most of that time will be trying to figure out how to 
put the three pan bolts that are just above the  frame rail. Leave 20 
minutes to wash your hair of all the oil that drips on you while you 
remove the pump. Hint: use cardboard to keep the drips off the floor and 
let the motor drip for an hour or two before you pull the pump.

Seriously, this is an easy fix. If it doesn't work, then check your 
bearing clearances. I'm amazed at how many motors have low oil pressure 
and the only prob is the oil pump clearances.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Mon Aug  9 09:51:11 2010
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 08:51:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?
Message-ID: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greetings. 
 
A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary
measure - with an aftermarket one.  It was 30+ years old - and bound to die
soon right? 
 
Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones without
the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump in
the boot.  Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to the
Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga.  After 90 minutes on the side of
the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and
pumping along doing its job.  One lesson however - make sure you have at least
one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag.  I think you can take a complete TR6
apart with one. 
 
The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show on
Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday.  There was
no winning at either event however.  
 
Now - I obviously need to order another pump.  Both TRF and Moss are selling
aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss ($50). 
They both look similar, and the design includes the primer.  Does anyone have
anything good or bad to say about either?
 
Thanks,
 
Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF18928
5-speed

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Mon Aug  9 10:30:10 2010
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 09:30:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <740086.51368.qm@web33503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I bought two pumps (with the lever) from Moss and both failed. If you have an
original AC pump I would replace the diaphragm and be done with it. The input
and output valve are extremely hard to replace without buggering the seats
where they fit in the pump.
 
My solution ended up be an eletric pump from Moss. Works great.
 
Jim

--- On Mon, 8/9/10, Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com> wrote:


From: Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?
To: 6pack at autox.team.net, "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Monday, August 9, 2010, 10:51 AM


Greetings.

A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary
measure - with an aftermarket one.  It was 30+ years old - and bound to die
soon right?

Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones without
the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump in
the boot.  Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to the
Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga.  After 90 minutes on the side of
the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and
pumping along doing its job.  One lesson however - make sure you have at
least
one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag.  I think you can take a complete TR6
apart with one.

The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show on
Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday.  There was
no winning at either event however. 

Now - I obviously need to order another pump.  Both TRF and Moss are selling
aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss ($50).
They both look similar, and the design includes the primer.  Does anyone have
anything good or bad to say about either?

Thanks,

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF18928
5-speed
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Aug  9 11:04:42 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 13:04:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1008091303450.1943@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010, Joe Merone wrote:

> Greetings.

[stuff deleted]

> pumping along doing its job.  One lesson however - make sure you have at least
> one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag.  I think you can take a complete TR6
> apart with one.

You need a 9/16" wrench too.

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Mon Aug  9 12:39:39 2010
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 9 Aug 2010 14:39:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1008091303450.1943@isis.mit.edu>
References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.1008091303450.1943@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <006901cb37f2$39b7c7f0$ad2757d0$@net>

Didn't forget the 5/8th 

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert M. Lang
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 1:05 PM
To: Joe Merone
Cc: Triumph List; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?

On Mon, 9 Aug 2010, Joe Merone wrote:

> Greetings.

[stuff deleted]

> pumping along doing its job.  One lesson however - make sure you have at
least
> one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag.  I think you can take a complete
TR6
> apart with one.

You need a 9/16" wrench too.

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/wensley_tr at comcast.net

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Aug  9 16:51:30 2010
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 09 Aug 2010 15:51:30 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?
References: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001b01cb3815$68e44490$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com>

Hi Joe,
Previous owner installed the "Made in Italy" lever pump that I believe is
the one TRF sells.
I don't have the install date however the pump has been fine for 3 years of
my driving.
Regards,
Bob.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Merone" <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:51 AM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?


> Greetings.
>
> A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary
> measure - with an aftermarket one.  It was 30+ years old - and bound to
die
> soon right?
>
> Only after that did I hear that the quality of these pumps (the ones
without
> the primer levers) were suspect, so I decided to carry around the old pump
in
> the boot.  Good thing, as the "new" one died Friday night on the way to
the
> Hemmings Sports and Exotic Show in Saratoga.  After 90 minutes on the side
of
> the road in the dark - we were off again with the old one installed and
> pumping along doing its job.  One lesson however - make sure you have at
least
> one small 1/2" wrench in your tool bag.  I think you can take a complete
TR6
> apart with one.
>
> The rest of the weekend went fine with great weather and a decent car show
on
> Saturday followed by a trip to the Saratoga Race Track on Sunday.  There
was
> no winning at either event however.
>
> Now - I obviously need to order another pump.  Both TRF and Moss are
selling
> aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss
($50).
> They both look similar, and the design includes the primer.  Does anyone
have
> anything good or bad to say about either?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Joe Merone
> South Burlington, VT
> CF18928
> 5-speed
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447)
> Database version: 6.14880
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From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Tue Aug 10 09:59:10 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 08:59:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?
In-Reply-To: <539990.31077.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B5DE16B1AB384BC193544C7C0B8F4C03@HOMEBREW1>

	Joe:

	I rebuilt my original using the $16 rebuild kit. I drifted in
the replacement valves although they really should be pressed in. Pretty
straight forward, and it worked on the first try. I secured the cover
with a stainless bolt, as the original had rusted badly.

	No issues with mine in three years. With my luck however...
Well, you may read about a Triumph bursting into flames, consuming the
car and the owner. The owner will be heard to shout as he shrivels in
the terrible heat "I would rather burn in my Triumph than be caught in
an MG".

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Joe Merone
Sent: Monday, August 09, 2010 8:51 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Triumph List
Subject: [6pack] TR6 fuel pump recommendations?


Greetings. 
 
A few years ago I replaced my original AC fuel pump - as a precautionary
measure - with an aftermarket one.  It was 30+ years old - and bound to
die
soon right? 
 
<snip>
 
Now - I obviously need to order another pump.  Both TRF and Moss are
selling
aftermarket units, albeit at widely different prices - TRF ($99), Moss
($50). 
They both look similar, and the design includes the primer.  Does anyone
have
anything good or bad to say about either?
 
Thanks,
 
Joe Merone

From dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com  Tue Aug 10 15:10:48 2010
From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com (Dave Waldorf)
Date: Tue, 10 Aug 2010 17:10:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 1 Week Left to Get Orders in for 2010 TRials Regalia
Message-ID: <A5710F783BDD4C8C9386397FC37BE4A8@DavePC>

There is now just 1 week left to get an order in for the embroidered TRials
regalia in order to have it for the event. That means that all snail-mail
orders should go out in the next day or 2 if they're going to filled for the
prices offered! After 8/17 ALL orders received will be subject to a postage
charge, and the polo shirt/hat/fleece will not be mailed until after the
event.

All three items are now available on the TRials web page
(http://triumphtrials.jimdo.com/gear/), where there is a printable order
form for mailing in orders.

We went all-out this year for regalia, getting high-end hats, shirts, &
(Columbia brand) fleeces, and the response has been great (especially for
the polo shirt). We don't have the usual cheap printed t-shirt and
sweatshirt to pick from this year, just top quality brand name items
embroidered w/ the event logo. Given the wide selection and personalization
available for each item, it will NOT be possible for us to have a stock of
these shirts available at the show for individual purchase, YOU MUST ORDER
WHAT YOU WANT! Quite a few of the items we're offering aren't available
blank for the prices we've been able to offer (Thank you Billy-Ray!!!).

If you don't get your order in today you WILL regret it.

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Wed Aug 11 01:55:14 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 03:55:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Starter Relay Alternatives
Message-ID: <65074F1A-0D4D-4765-A4EF-AF60E69FF060@nc.rr.com>

Geeze! A new '74 TR-6 starter relay is $90!
Anybody have a recommendation for a reasonably priced aftermarket make/model
that's plug'n play?

Doug Morris, NC
'74 TR-6 CF-18xx-OU

From v.navarrette at comcast.net  Wed Aug 11 20:10:44 2010
From: v.navarrette at comcast.net (Vance Navarrette)
Date: Wed, 11 Aug 2010 19:10:44 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Starter Relay Alternatives
In-Reply-To: <65074F1A-0D4D-4765-A4EF-AF60E69FF060@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <854A327109494DB48BFCE29336A389ED@HOMEBREW1>

	Doug:

	Go to an automotive electric rebuilder - look in the yellow
pages.

	I got my entire starter rebuilt - brushes, bushings, solenoid
for $130.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Douglas Morris
Sent: Wednesday, August 11, 2010 12:55 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Starter Relay Alternatives


Geeze! A new '74 TR-6 starter relay is $90!
Anybody have a recommendation for a reasonably priced aftermarket
make/model
that's plug'n play?

Doug Morris, NC
'74 TR-6 CF-18xx-OU

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Sun Aug 15 20:10:25 2010
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Sun, 15 Aug 2010 19:10:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] SU carbs for sale
Message-ID: <184405.48890.qm@web33508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have a set of SU HS6 carbs for sale. These were taken off of my car when I
changed to a Moss blower. They were completely rebuilt by Jeff Palya (of
Paltech) in 2005. They have less than 2000 miles on them. They work extremely
well. The set comes with the throttle linkage, the mounting nuts, and a pair
of K&N "pancake" style air filters. I want to give the list first dibs on
these before I do the Ebay thing. The price is $350 including shipping.
Contact me off list for pictures and questiongs.
 
Regards,
Jim Jones
Jefferson City, MO

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Tue Aug 17 11:56:54 2010
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 10:56:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] SU Carbs for Sale
In-Reply-To: <856173.26207.qm@web65605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <963599.77715.qm@web33503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For those of you inquiring about my set of HS6 SU cars for sale, they have
been spoken for. If the deal falls through I will let everyone know.
 
Thanks,
Jim Jones

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Tue Aug 17 11:59:20 2010
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 13:59:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Turn Signal Switch - Return Function
Message-ID: <ED186401-7EB3-41DE-9D88-C6E42A0E7F2F@nc.rr.com>

Is the turn-signal switch return thingie repairable or adjustable?
After a left (or is it right?) turn, the switch does not automatically trigger
off.
I'm hoping this is a pliers-fixable issue.
Anybody? Beuller?

Doug Morris, NC

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Aug 17 12:27:26 2010
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 18:27:26 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Turn Signal Switch - Return Function
Message-ID: <COL123-DS1712BB497FF41C4BD17A5BF49C0@phx.gbl>

Doug---If this non-canceling just started, you may see the cause by removing the left side cover and shining a light inside while turning the steering wheel. Start with the 'wheel pointed straight ahead, as would normally be the case before operating the turn signal. As you turn the wheel, you will see what triggers the canceling operation. (little springs and cams, etc.)  Could be just a loose screw, or a missing spring.
If this non-canceling has been going on "forever", or you recently had some work done for front end alignment, then write back for info about the steering column clip/cam, and how to center it. (Too long to add here).

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Douglas Morris
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 10:59 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Turn Signal Switch - Return Function

Is the turn-signal switch return thingie repairable or adjustable?
After a left (or is it right?) turn, the switch does not automatically trigger
off.
I'm hoping this is a pliers-fixable issue.
Anybody? Beuller?

Doug Morris, NC
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net

From mrankin.cox at cox.net  Tue Aug 17 20:11:09 2010
From: mrankin.cox at cox.net (Michael Rankin)
Date: Tue, 17 Aug 2010 21:11:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Turn Signal Switch - Return Function
Message-ID: <000c01cb3e7a$9f975b60$dec61220$@cox@cox.net>

Doug -- I believe there is a metal tab that is on the steering shaft that
acts as the return trigger mechanism.  Remove the plastic plinth and you
should be able to get a view. I had a similar situation yrs ago and I
believe I had to re-align the steering shaft to center the metal tab at 9
o'clock so it would trigger the return after a L and R hand turn. There is
adjustment of the shaft from the u-joint in the steering column in the
engine bay where the shaft and rack and pinion attach to each other. You may
also have to remove and recenter the steering wheel after you have properly
adjusted the shaft. Once you get into it and see how it works this is pretty
simple, but more difficult to explain in an email.

 

Take care,

Michael

From george_loriot at hotmail.com  Wed Aug 18 17:53:40 2010
From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 19:53:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH
 master cylinder..
In-Reply-To: <COL123-DS197E8AE1D4A6BE88190108F4B30@phx.gbl>
References: <COL123-DS197E8AE1D4A6BE88190108F4B30@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <SNT144-w310129E13CE372F959D4508E9D0@phx.gbl>

Listersthanks to everyone's suggestions I'm a happy camper once again.  The
clutch I-won't-disengage-all-the-way problem was a combination of:  egg-shaped
holes in the pedal arm and the master cylinder pushrod, slight leak in master
cylinder, weak return spring in slave cylinder,  and probably needed some
bleeding.  It looks like the dreaded clutch fork pin was ok, since now the
cluthc is releasing nicely.  I had a machinist reposition and drill a new
bushing in both the arm and pushrod, new clevis pin.  I lightly honed both
cylinders and installed new seals and return spring, and replaced the flexible
hose (it looked a little bulgy, a technical term with a British accent).Bled
the system and I'm back on the road again.  Thanks to all listers for their
suggestions;  this list is great.  it's saved my tush on several occasions.
George Loriot1976 TR5

From: tr6taylor at webtv.net
To: george_loriot at hotmail.com
CC: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] FW: cluster master cylinder question - should be CLUTCH
master cylinder..
Date: Wed, 7 Jul 2010 18:12:33 +0000







George---Have the machinist find the center or the original hole in the pedal
arm and bore it out to accept a 7/16x5/16 inch bushing. As you said, then all
that will be required is pushing out the worn bushing and squeezing in the
new. Next time!

An oval in the push rod is harder to fix. Don't know of any parts supplier
that will sell you a new rod, unless you spring for a whole new MC.  You you
want, you can cut the thru the length of the pushrod, add an eigth inch to it,
and braze it back together. This will compensate for the loss of length due to
wear. Not really necessary, but do-able.

Dick

From ajw at golden.net  Wed Aug 18 18:09:31 2010
From: ajw at golden.net (john weir)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 20:09:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Turn Signal Switch - Return Function
References: <000c01cb3e7a$9f975b60$dec61220$@cox@cox.net>
Message-ID: <F36EE5CC216C4C79A30812A5ADB6A8E6@weir>

Hi Guys.
If I remember...I used a small Phillips to loosen the screw holding a white 
plastic 'finger' that hits the pin and returns the lever to the center as 
the steering wheel rotates. Once you open it up, you will see exactly what 
needs to be done. Even if the plastic is broken, a simple fab job will be 
done in 15-20 mins (hours).
I think that was the first job I did on my TR6. Bugged the %^&* out of me!
John Weir

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Rankin" <mrankin.cox at cox.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>
Sent: Tuesday, August 17, 2010 10:11 PM
Subject: [6pack] Turn Signal Switch - Return Function


> Doug -- I believe there is a metal tab that is on the steering shaft that
> acts as the return trigger mechanism.  Remove the plastic plinth and you
> should be able to get a view. I had a similar situation yrs ago and I
> believe I had to re-align the steering shaft to center the metal tab at 9
> o'clock so it would trigger the return after a L and R hand turn. There is
> adjustment of the shaft from the u-joint in the steering column in the
> engine bay where the shaft and rack and pinion attach to each other. You 
> may
> also have to remove and recenter the steering wheel after you have 
> properly
> adjusted the shaft. Once you get into it and see how it works this is 
> pretty
> simple, but more difficult to explain in an email.
>
>
>
> Take care,
>
> Michael
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/ajw at golden.net

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed Aug 18 23:24:20 2010
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Wed, 18 Aug 2010 22:24:20 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Turn Signal Switch - Return Function
In-Reply-To: <F36EE5CC216C4C79A30812A5ADB6A8E6@weir>
References: <000c01cb3e7a$9f975b60$dec61220$@cox@cox.net>
	<F36EE5CC216C4C79A30812A5ADB6A8E6@weir>
Message-ID: <a06240802c89270508d68@[192.168.2.4]>

What I do, is just flip the switch back to center with my finger ... ;-)
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Aug 19 10:05:23 2010
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang)
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 12:05:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Annual Charity Request
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.1008191203230.10409@isis.mit.edu>

Hello Fellow 6packers.

This message is a solicitation. Plain and simple. Feel free to delete it.

Each year New England Region / Sports Car Club of America runs a charity event 
called Racing Against Leukemia. Each of the specialties (club racing, solo and 
rally) hold various events at New Hampshire Motor Speedway in Loudon, NH with 
the express intent of raising money for a named charity, in this case The UMass 
Memorial Foundation.

I have set up a donation page at firstgiving.com:

http://www.firstgiving.com/robertlang3

where you can donate to my effort. There's a bit of explantory text there.

This is a totally legit, 100% deductably 501.c.3 charity.

Now, if you have a passing interest in autocross or any other activity that 
NER/SCCA runs, feel free to stop by this weekend - or even better bring your 
car and run it in one of the events!! It's for a good cause and all proceeds go 
to the named charity. Details of the weekend are posted at the ner web site:

http://www.ner.org/region/racing-against-leukemia

Thanks for reading this and we appreciate any contributions that you can make.

Regards,
rml
p.s. if I've helped you fix your car over the last 12 months, think of 
this as a way to pay me back.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              Triumph TR6!!            |  This space for rent
2010 NER Solo Chair                            |
Voice:617-253-7438                             |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
//
// To unsubscribe send email to:  majordomo at lists.mv.net
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From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Thu Aug 19 12:38:10 2010
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Thu, 19 Aug 2010 14:38:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 2010 VTR Convention on Jekyll Island
In-Reply-To: <4C6D6425.9070505@bradakis.com>
References: <4C6D6425.9070505@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <44E350E1-CF89-4806-9F89-C64B1289662B@blakedischer.com>

Please pass this along as you see fit.

The 2010 North American Triumph Challenge (NATC) will be held October 17-22 at
the site of the SEVTR Regional Convention since 2002, beautiful Jekyll Island,
Georgia. This gathering of the Triumph faithful will be hosted by the clubs of
the Southeast Region. Each of these clubs brings their area of expertise to
the successful organization of this event. The clubs are proud to host what
promises to be one of the most unique and relaxing events the Triumph
community has experienced.

Discounted room blocks at three hotels, rates expire September 15th.

Host hotel:
The Jekyll Island Club, rooms start at $155 per night, regularly $269.
(http://www.jekyllclub.com/)

Other nearby, on island, hotels:
Hampton Inn, rooms start at $109 per night.
Days Inn and Suites, rooms start at $90 per night.

For full details and to register:
http://vtr2010.org/

Cheers,
Blake Discher

From j.honor at comcast.net  Thu Aug 19 22:18:26 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:18:26 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
Message-ID: <586102343.117387.1282277906540.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have installled a hayden-pusher orient fan on my TR6, it has stopped working. all connections are intact & fuses are OK. question is how to test both relay & tempurature sensor imbedded in radiator grill? I hate electrical problems. 

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Fri Aug 20 07:03:13 2010
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 13:03:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
In-Reply-To: <586102343.117387.1282277906540.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <586102343.117387.1282277906540.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY156-w4BDC6CBB65793F8D62D74CF9F0@phx.gbl>

Go to the fan directly first and then backtrack. (much faster to type than do)
 If I may add to this thread, is there a way for the electrically ignorant
(me) to wire an electric fan so if it were to die, the spark to the motor
would also be cut?

> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:18:26 +0000
> From: j.honor at comcast.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
>
> I have installled a hayden-pusher orient fan on my TR6, it has stopped
working. all connections are intact & fuses are OK. question is how to test
both relay & tempurature sensor imbedded in radiator grill? I hate electrical
problems.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/slbridge at hotmail.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Fri Aug 20 07:51:13 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 13:51:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
Message-ID: <2028226365-1282312076-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1914618162-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Isn't that what a temperature gauge and a driver checking is for?  Lots of things in the cooling system that can fail besides the fan and then there's oil pressure, fuel level...

My e-fan only comes on when I get in stop and go traffic for 10 minutes or more and its hot out. I also have a switch on the console to turn it on/off manually. 

As the last poster said, start at the fan wiring direct and work your way back. 

Lou
72 Pimento TR6
------Original Message------
From: steve bridge
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: j.honor at comcast.net
Cc: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
Sent: Aug 20, 2010 8:03 AM

Go to the fan directly first and then backtrack. (much faster to type than do)
 If I may add to this thread, is there a way for the electrically ignorant
(me) to wire an electric fan so if it were to die, the spark to the motor
would also be cut?

> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:18:26 +0000
> From: j.honor at comcast.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
>
> I have installled a hayden-pusher orient fan on my TR6, it has stopped
working. all connections are intact & fuses are OK. question is how to test
both relay & tempurature sensor imbedded in radiator grill? I hate electrical
problems.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/slbridge at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Aug 20 08:00:36 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 10:00:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
In-Reply-To: <BAY156-w4BDC6CBB65793F8D62D74CF9F0@phx.gbl>
References: <586102343.117387.1282277906540.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY156-w4BDC6CBB65793F8D62D74CF9F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <78B4730B5D4E4A50AEF8D82818A913DF@BobPC>

I sure wouldn't want to be cruising down the road when the fan failed and 
killed the engine! I'd suggest you wire the fan to an idiot light (I used 
the EGR light) that goes on when the fan is running.  What I've found is 
that as long as I'm moving at about 30 mph or more the fan never runs. The 
other thing I have is a 3-way switch: auto-on, manual-on and manual-off.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "steve bridge" <slbridge at hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 9:03 AM
To: <j.honor at comcast.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction

> Go to the fan directly first and then backtrack. (much faster to type than 
> do)
> If I may add to this thread, is there a way for the electrically ignorant
> (me) to wire an electric fan so if it were to die, the spark to the motor
> would also be cut?

From rawanderer at comcast.net  Fri Aug 20 08:01:49 2010
From: rawanderer at comcast.net (Bob Wanderer)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:01:49 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
In-Reply-To: <1132961865.255036.1282312657732.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1618986267.255357.1282312909820.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>

Steve,
I would suggest that having the motor stop because the electric fan malfunctioned is not a good idea.  Perhaps the fan can be wired to a warning light to let you know the fan is broken (as opposed to just being off since it does cycle).  Regardless, I am sure you monitor the water temp gauge, so you can take whatever action you deem appropriate should you see it rise past some arbitrary "worry" point.

BobW 

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve bridge" <slbridge at hotmail.com>
To: "j honor" <j.honor at comcast.net>
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 9:03:13 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction

Go to the fan directly first and then backtrack. (much faster to type than do)
 If I may add to this thread, is there a way for the electrically ignorant
(me) to wire an electric fan so if it were to die, the spark to the motor
would also be cut?

> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:18:26 +0000
> From: j.honor at comcast.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
>
> I have installled a hayden-pusher orient fan on my TR6, it has stopped
working. all connections are intact & fuses are OK. question is how to test
both relay & tempurature sensor imbedded in radiator grill? I hate electrical
problems.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
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_______________________________________________

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From j.honor at comcast.net  Fri Aug 20 09:21:55 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:21:55 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
In-Reply-To: <1618986267.255357.1282312909820.JavaMail.root@sz0133a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <1784294753.132437.1282317715850.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Bob/Steve, I am in between now with a new aluminum radiator with spall han
from art lipp, what I have now is basic hookup via thermastat in rad fins and
no manual 0n-off-on or lite switch. new set up will definitely now have these.
Thanks- Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Wanderer" <rawanderer at comcast.net>
To: "steve bridge" <slbridge at hotmail.com>
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net, "j honor" <j.honor at comcast.net>
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 9:01:49 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction

Steve,
I would suggest that having the motor stop because the electric fan
malfunctioned is not a good idea. B Perhaps the fan can be wired to a warning
light to let you know the fan is broken (as opposed to just being off since it
does cycle). B Regardless, I am sure you monitor the water temp gauge, so you
can take whatever action you deem appropriate should you see it rise past some
arbitrary "worry" point.

BobW

----- Original Message -----
From: "steve bridge" <slbridge at hotmail.com>
To: "j honor" <j.honor at comcast.net>
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 9:03:13 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction

Go to the fan directly first and then backtrack. (much faster to type than do)
B If I may add to this thread, is there a way for the electrically ignorant
(me) to wire an electric fan so if it were to die, the spark to the motor
would also be cut?

> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:18:26 +0000
> From: j.honor at comcast.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
>
> I have installled a hayden-pusher orient fan on my TR6, it has stopped
working. all connections are intact & fuses are OK. question is how to test
both relay & tempurature sensor imbedded in radiator grill? I hate electrical
problems.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/slbridge at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From j.honor at comcast.net  Fri Aug 20 09:24:02 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:24:02 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
In-Reply-To: <2028226365-1282312076-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1914618162-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <285209864.132560.1282317842274.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

yes, it typicaly only went on intermintently but just picked up car after 2
year hiatus-from me not use; and runnign all the wat hot-so likely its the fan
or thermastat that is dead. new set up will alert me etc. thanks Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: lfm614 at aol.com
Cc: "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 8:51:13 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction

Isn't that what a temperature gauge and a driver checking is for? B Lots of
things in the cooling system that can fail besides the fan and then there's
oil pressure, fuel level...

My e-fan only comes on when I get in stop and go traffic for 10 minutes or
more and its hot out. I also have a switch on the console to turn it on/off
manually.

As the last poster said, start at the fan wiring direct and work your way
back.

Lou
72 Pimento TR6
------Original Message------
From: steve bridge
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: j.honor at comcast.net
Cc: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
Sent: Aug 20, 2010 8:03 AM

Go to the fan directly first and then backtrack. (much faster to type than do)
B If I may add to this thread, is there a way for the electrically ignorant
(me) to wire an electric fan so if it were to die, the spark to the motor
would also be cut?

> Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 04:18:26 +0000
> From: j.honor at comcast.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
>
> I have installled a hayden-pusher orient fan on my TR6, it has stopped
working. all connections are intact & fuses are OK. question is how to test
both relay & tempurature sensor imbedded in radiator grill? I hate electrical
problems.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/slbridge at hotmail.com
_______________________________________________

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From j.honor at comcast.net  Fri Aug 20 09:27:56 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 15:27:56 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction
In-Reply-To: <78B4730B5D4E4A50AEF8D82818A913DF@BobPC>
Message-ID: <1631881865.132823.1282318076338.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Bob, thanks I saw your previous thread in archives. actually now waiting on
art lipps new combined aluminum radiator and spall fan-as you installed. new
one will now alos have the on-off-on switch and lite. will need to sort out
how to do that-we"ll talk. I am going to as others recommeded to hotwire fan
to rule in or out its function and then see about thermastat then relay. I am
hoping the fan or thermastat so platform isn't all garbage for new equipement.
fresh start though is also OK. hate electronics. need to get skill sets on a
good meter I know will help! regards, Joe
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "steve bridge" <slbridge at hotmail.com>
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 9:00:36 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction

I sure wouldn't want to be cruising down the road when the fan failed and
killed the engine! I'd suggest you wire the fan to an idiot light (I used
the EGR light) that goes on when the fan is running. B What I've found is
that as long as I'm moving at about 30 mph or more the fan never runs. The
other thing I have is a 3-way switch: auto-on, manual-on and manual-off.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "steve bridge" <slbridge at hotmail.com>
Sent: Friday, August 20, 2010 9:03 AM
To: <j.honor at comcast.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] hayden fan malfunction

> Go to the fan directly first and then backtrack. (much faster to type than
> do)
> If I may add to this thread, is there a way for the electrically ignorant
> (me) to wire an electric fan so if it were to die, the spark to the motor
> would also be cut?
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri Aug 20 12:54:07 2010
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 14:54:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Self-beeping Horns!
Message-ID: <4C6ECF4F.1010205@maine.rr.com>

  Hey all;

I have been trying to track-down an apparent short in my car's horns. So 
far, I've
disassembled the steering column, checked out the horn ring and 
purple/black
wire from the ring to the harness and find that it's not broken, 
pinched, or chafed.
I have disconnected the purple/black wire from the W1 on the relay 
because when
I touch it to the terminal the horn beeps!! From the horn relay, I have 
followed the
purple/yellow wires' path to the horns, but see no connections there 
amiss.....

Do these horns ever get internal shorts somehow? All grounds appear to 
be in order.

Any insights/suggestions would be *greatly* appreciated....!!

Dave Friedlander
'74 Six w/A-OD and TBI

From lfm614 at aol.com  Fri Aug 20 13:57:51 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Aug 2010 19:57:51 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Self-beeping Horns!
Message-ID: <1487176840-1282334074-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-282245397-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Do you have any play in the steering wheel, sometimes when the bushings wear the shaft can ground on housing causing horn to honk when turning. 

Lou
72 Pimento
------Original Message------
From: David Friedlander
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
ReplyTo: forzion at maine.rr.com
Subject: [6pack] Self-beeping Horns!
Sent: Aug 20, 2010 1:54 PM

  Hey all;

I have been trying to track-down an apparent short in my car's horns. So 
far, I've
disassembled the steering column, checked out the horn ring and 
purple/black
wire from the ring to the harness and find that it's not broken, 
pinched, or chafed.
I have disconnected the purple/black wire from the W1 on the relay 
because when
I touch it to the terminal the horn beeps!! From the horn relay, I have 
followed the
purple/yellow wires' path to the horns, but see no connections there 
amiss.....

Do these horns ever get internal shorts somehow? All grounds appear to 
be in order.

Any insights/suggestions would be *greatly* appreciated....!!

Dave Friedlander
'74 Six w/A-OD and TBI
_______________________________________________

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From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Sat Aug 21 07:32:44 2010
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:32:44 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Self-beeping Horns!
In-Reply-To: <4C6ECF4F.1010205@maine.rr.com>
References: <4C6ECF4F.1010205@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <blu120-w128A4952A06E831F803E5F8E800@phx.gbl>

Dave,
Based on the 74 schemetic, the purple/black is coming from the button and
should be connected to W2. If it has ground all the time, it's shorted out, as
the horn-push should send ground to this wire. The purple wire should be
connected to W1 & C2, sending 12v to the relay, and the purple/yellow connects
to C1 sending 12v to the horns when the relay trips.

Alot of us probably have the worn column bushings that cause the horn to beep
when you're pushing hard on the wheel. Like someone said, it grounds out and
then sends ground down the purple/black wire.

good luck,
Sloane :)


> Hey all;
>
> I have been trying to track-down an apparent short in my car's horns. So
> far, I've
> disassembled the steering column, checked out the horn ring and
> purple/black
> wire from the ring to the harness and find that it's not broken,
> pinched, or chafed.
> I have disconnected the purple/black wire from the W1 on the relay
> because when
> I touch it to the terminal the horn beeps!! From the horn relay, I have
> followed the
> purple/yellow wires' path to the horns, but see no connections there
> amiss.....
>
> Do these horns ever get internal shorts somehow? All grounds appear to
> be in order.
>
> Any insights/suggestions would be *greatly* appreciated....!!
>
> Dave Friedlander
> '74 Six w/A-OD and TBI
> _______________________________________________

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sat Aug 21 09:29:13 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 11:29:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Don masters manual
Message-ID: <0E77EB9B-B631-4725-8F97-CC40AEDAE0BE@comcast.net>

Where San I purchase Don's seminal work?

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

From apackard68 at att.net  Sat Aug 21 09:48:06 2010
From: apackard68 at att.net (apackard68 at att.net)
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 15:48:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Self-beeping Horns!
In-Reply-To: <blu120-w128A4952A06E831F803E5F8E800@phx.gbl>
References: <4C6ECF4F.1010205@maine.rr.com><blu120-w128A4952A06E831F803E5F8E800@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <2102983752-1282405688-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-806222967-@bda328.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Do you have an aftermarket steering wheel?  My motolita would ground on the disk, esp during autocrosses.  I bought a sheet of plastic material from Tap Plastics here in the Bay Area and made a disk/washer out of it to go between the back of the steering wheel and the disk.  The disk is not exactly round and centered, so the washer I created corrected for this and doesn't allow contact any more.  It was a simple solution to a very aggravating problem.
Andy
CD6746L HVDA and a bunch of other stuff
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:32:44 
To: <forzion at maine.rr.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Self-beeping Horns!

Dave,
Based on the 74 schemetic, the purple/black is coming from the button and
should be connected to W2. If it has ground all the time, it's shorted out, as
the horn-push should send ground to this wire. The purple wire should be
connected to W1 & C2, sending 12v to the relay, and the purple/yellow connects
to C1 sending 12v to the horns when the relay trips.

Alot of us probably have the worn column bushings that cause the horn to beep
when you're pushing hard on the wheel. Like someone said, it grounds out and
then sends ground down the purple/black wire.

good luck,
Sloane :)


> Hey all;
>
> I have been trying to track-down an apparent short in my car's horns. So
> far, I've
> disassembled the steering column, checked out the horn ring and
> purple/black
> wire from the ring to the harness and find that it's not broken,
> pinched, or chafed.
> I have disconnected the purple/black wire from the W1 on the relay
> because when
> I touch it to the terminal the horn beeps!! From the horn relay, I have
> followed the
> purple/yellow wires' path to the horns, but see no connections there
> amiss.....
>
> Do these horns ever get internal shorts somehow? All grounds appear to
> be in order.
>
> Any insights/suggestions would be *greatly* appreciated....!!
>
> Dave Friedlander
> '74 Six w/A-OD and TBI
> _______________________________________________
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/apackard68 at att.net

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sat Aug 21 10:50:19 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 16:50:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Don masters manual
Message-ID: <1354607900-1282409220-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-771153367-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

You mean Dan Master's Electrical manual for the TR6?  The 6-PACK store has the for the least $ that I have seen but site is down for maintenance today. 

Lou
72 Pimento  
------Original Message------
From: Joe Honor
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] Don masters manual
Sent: Aug 21, 2010 10:29 AM

Where San I purchase Don's seminal work?

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
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From j.honor at comcast.net  Sat Aug 21 10:48:26 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 12:48:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Don masters manual
In-Reply-To: <1354607900-1282409220-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-771153367-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <1354607900-1282409220-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-771153367-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <29F860C3-EE40-4038-BAC6-1AEA607C222C@comcast.net>

Well then it'll be worth the wait! Thanks Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 21, 2010, at 12:50 PM, lfm614 at aol.com wrote:

> You mean Dan Master's Electrical manual for the TR6?  The 6-PACK store has
the for the least $ that I have seen but site is down for maintenance today.
>
> Lou
> 72 Pimento
> ------Original Message------
> From: Joe Honor
> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
> To: TR-6 list
> Subject: [6pack] Don masters manual
> Sent: Aug 21, 2010 10:29 AM
>
> Where San I purchase Don's seminal work?
>
> Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Aug 21 11:40:23 2010
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 21 Aug 2010 13:40:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Don masters manual
In-Reply-To: <0E77EB9B-B631-4725-8F97-CC40AEDAE0BE@comcast.net>
References: <0E77EB9B-B631-4725-8F97-CC40AEDAE0BE@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <893B17120FA344A4AB091BE1DCE382DE@BobPC>

I believe 6-Pack sells it in their online store (www.6-pack.org) and Moss 
has it in their catalog.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

--------------------------------------------------
From: "Joe Honor" <j.honor at comcast.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 21, 2010 11:29 AM
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Don masters manual

> Where San I purchase Don's seminal work?
>
> Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 23 10:34:00 2010
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 12:34:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] beer tasting at VTR 2010
In-Reply-To: <8AB99C4CABE44B7D9BF4412E3E526CC0@DCS78M81>
References: <8AB99C4CABE44B7D9BF4412E3E526CC0@DCS78M81>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W24132FF2E4591F3BD20551BA820@phx.gbl>

Hi Tom.  A six or eight pack will be fine, or whatever you want to bring.  The
way it works is we open our bottles and set them on a big table.  I provide
glasses and folks walk around and sample the different beers, so it's not like
you have to provide a bottle for everybody.  Looking forword to trying your
Red Ale. I should be bottling a special batch in a few weeks. Hope it is ready
by October.  There was some really great beers at the last one.

Marty

> From: tfansher at comcast.net
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Date: Sun, 22 Aug 2010 18:20:11 -0400
> Subject: [TR] beer tasting at VTR 2010
>
> Just bottled up a batch of Red Ale. It should be good for Jekyll Island.
> Having not been able to attend the other beer tasting and seeing that it's
on
> the schedule, what's a good number of 12oz bottles to bring along. I know
I'm
> opening myself up to very large numbers, but this is a fairly serious
> question. I'm in the TR3.....so space is limited. Although, Janet could
bring
> some in the Stag ;^)
> Tom
>
> _______________________________________________
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $11.47
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From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Mon Aug 23 19:30:12 2010
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 23 Aug 2010 21:30:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Looking for more pictures
Message-ID: <BAY143-W19D69BE4410099C0D7AB48C6830@phx.gbl>

About a year back I posted a request for pictures for the 6-Pack site.
It was pretty well subscribed.

Well the site's had a makeover.
The pictures are in a much prettier gallery - if you don't go and aren't a
total Luddite, you should check out the new site.
I'm a bit biased, but I think it's an improvement on the old one.

What I'd really like to get is a bunch more pics of 6's and 250's to add.
Stock or not.
Original paint or bright pink, all are welcome.

If you'd like to see your car on the internet, send me a picture and a brief
description to webmaster at 6-pack.org

Thanks in advance,
Alan Atkinson
6-Pack webmaster.

From j.honor at comcast.net  Tue Aug 24 15:39:15 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:39:15 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] fan problem continues
Message-ID: <735255441.341565.1282685955971.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

my fan woes continue with my tr6 with hayden fan. just rec;d today and installed replacement hayden thermastat and also swapped new relay. nothing happened! clearly i must have a short or an open line somewhere. my earlier post i had inspected all wiring-appears intact, fuses -ok and fan when hotwired to battery works. what are suggestions at this point. if I disgard raly etc and go direct to battery- doI use a spst type switch or something else? interested in your guidance. regards, Joe ps ordered don masters book-not yet rec'd. 

From lfm614 at aol.com  Tue Aug 24 16:45:16 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 22:45:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] fan problem continues
Message-ID: <2068573719-1282689711-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-962130188-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Well sounds like a broken wire or bad connection if the fan works and you have a new t-stat & relay.  Are you sure you are getting power to the hot side of the relay from the fusebox?  Would not go to switch, don't think it will fix it anyway.   Do you have a meter or light to check for 12 volts or continuity?

Lou
72 Pimento
------Original Message------
From: j.honor at comcast.net
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] fan problem continues
Sent: Aug 24, 2010 4:39 PM

my fan woes continue with my tr6 with hayden fan. just rec;d today and installed replacement hayden thermastat and also swapped new relay. nothing happened! clearly i must have a short or an open line somewhere. my earlier post i had inspected all wiring-appears intact, fuses -ok and fan when hotwired to battery works. what are suggestions at this point. if I disgard raly etc and go direct to battery- doI use a spst type switch or something else? interested in your guidance. regards, Joe ps ordered don masters book-not yet rec'd. 
_______________________________________________

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From mark at bradakis.com  Tue Aug 24 17:39:39 2010
From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis)
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 17:39:39 -0600
Subject: [6pack] fan problem continues
In-Reply-To: <735255441.341565.1282685955971.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
References: <735255441.341565.1282685955971.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4C74583B.3010005@bradakis.com>

Have you done any testing at all of the wires in the
circuit, using a test light or voltmeter?  Which
part is getting power when it should, which part isn't?

mjb.

From j.honor at comcast.net  Tue Aug 24 20:35:03 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:35:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Update on my Hayden fan saga
Message-ID: <D156D1AA-E993-4816-BB99-1607F19F790A@comcast.net>

I successfully established a workaround to bypass both relay and radiator
thermostat to have now simple 20a simple on/off switch for fan/ works ok what
are my downsides to this ie no relay no fuse/which I could easily patch in
Regards Joe

From j.honor at comcast.net  Tue Aug 24 20:52:42 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Tue, 24 Aug 2010 21:52:42 -0500
Subject: [6pack] fan problem continues
In-Reply-To: <4C74583B.3010005@bradakis.com>
References: <735255441.341565.1282685955971.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<4C74583B.3010005@bradakis.com>
Message-ID: <4CCB6E60-2C5E-4F5E-B195-587835A2A1CB@comcast.net>

Mark I have a test sensor with light I am going to see what is hot- I will
heat up radiator to check on the thermostat switch kicking in at 180 to see if
that powers up fan wire is there another way to test the relay other that that
one downstream hot? A way to test thermostat switch? Regards Joe

Joe Honor / Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 24, 2010, at 6:39 PM, Mark J Bradakis <mark at bradakis.com> wrote:

> Have you done any testing at all of the wires in the
> circuit, using a test light or voltmeter?  Which
> part is getting power when it should, which part isn't?
>
> mjb.
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/j.honor at comcast.net

From lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Aug 25 06:25:40 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 12:25:40 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Update on my Hayden fan saga
Message-ID: <1348164327-1282738934-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1768567606-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Joe, 

I would not leave it on the switch. If it doesn't go through the key, it will stay on and kill the battery. If you forget to switch it on and miss the high gauge reading you can overheat. 

I can't imagine that you have another bad set of t-stat & relay.  Check the wiring in common.  I believe that you should be able to short the connections from the t-stat on the relay and it should activate. 

Lou 
72 Pimento
------Original Message------
From: Joe Honor
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] Update on my Hayden fan saga
Sent: Aug 24, 2010 9:35 PM

I successfully established a workaround to bypass both relay and radiator
thermostat to have now simple 20a simple on/off switch for fan/ works ok what
are my downsides to this ie no relay no fuse/which I could easily patch in
Regards Joe
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com

From j.honor at comcast.net  Wed Aug 25 13:21:27 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (Joe Honor)
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 14:21:27 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Latest on my Hayden fan
Message-ID: <CF85AB7F-2C27-4E58-9A00-454599083072@comcast.net>

Ok always good to check all connection-and see they they all actually have
power load etc my ignition-continuous power to the fuse box was hooked up to a
non powered lug both from accessory and when ign is on once changes to a
tested hot lug voilC ! All works as it should engine gauge shows hot I will
swap out sender to see I'd that matches what me be real thanks everyone!
Regards Joe

From lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Aug 25 16:41:05 2010
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 22:41:05 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Latest on my Hayden fan
Message-ID: <279011553-1282775859-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-619915403-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I guess you mean you were checking it all along with the key off all along.

Personally I have mine wired to turn off power with the key so that it is off and not coming on when I am working under the hood. 
Don't think that there is any benefit for the fan to run until the rad cools off if the water pump is not circulating the water. 

Lou
72 Pimento
------Original Message------
From: Joe Honor
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Subject: [6pack] Latest on my Hayden fan
Sent: Aug 25, 2010 2:21 PM

Ok always good to check all connection-and see they they all actually have
power load etc my ignition-continuous power to the fuse box was hooked up to a
non powered lug both from accessory and when ign is on once changes to a
tested hot lug voilC ! All works as it should engine gauge shows hot I will
swap out sender to see I'd that matches what me be real thanks everyone!
Regards Joe
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
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From j.honor at comcast.net  Wed Aug 25 17:40:04 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 25 Aug 2010 23:40:04 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] Latest on my Hayden fan
In-Reply-To: <279011553-1282775859-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-619915403-@bda590.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <323061533.412042.1282779604822.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

Lou I agree with that set up. it was inadvertently setup by the prior owner to the incorrect fuse lug that had no continuous power when on acceessory. just put 80 miles and all OK. running abit hot suspect my temp sender. will wait fo rnew aluminum radiator with related thermatate etc to see how it then before investigation. Thanks. regards, Joe 
----- Original Message ----- 
From: lfm614 at aol.com 
To: "Joe Honor" <j.honor at comcast.net>, "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net> 
Sent: Wednesday, August 25, 2010 5:41:05 PM 
Subject: Re: [6pack] Latest on my Hayden fan 

I guess you mean you were checking it all along with the key off all along. 

Personally I have mine wired to turn off power with the key so that it is off and not coming on when I am working under the hood. 
Don't think that there is any benefit for the fan to run until the rad cools off if the water pump is not circulating the water. 

Lou 
72 Pimento 
------Original Message------ 
From: Joe Honor 
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net 
To: TR-6 list 
Subject: [6pack] Latest on my Hayden fan 
Sent: Aug 25, 2010 2:21 PM 

Ok always good to check all connection-and see they they all actually have 
power load etc my ignition-continuous power to the fuse box was hooked up to a 
non powered lug both from accessory and when ign is on once changes to a 
tested hot lug voilC ! All works as it should engine gauge shows hot I will 
swap out sender to see I'd that matches what me be real thanks everyone! 
Regards Joe 
_______________________________________________ 

6pack at autox.team.net 
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html 
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive 
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums 
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com 

From tjh173 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 26 08:58:58 2010
From: tjh173 at yahoo.com (Timothy Holbrook)
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 07:58:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] POR on threads
Message-ID: <26481.49614.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Guys - my brother has a GT6 and recently had his floors replaced.  Body shop
used POR on the floors, which is great stuff as we all know - BUT...some POR
seems to have made its way to the captive nuts for the seat mounts, seatbelt
mounts, etc, and he's having a tough time getting the bolts to thread.  He's
understandably worried about stripping the threads.  


Thoughts on how best
to resolve this?  Just go slowly and lube the threads as he 
goes?  Or is
there something he can use to try to clean the POR off the threads
beforehand?

Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Thu Aug 26 09:52:11 2010
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 11:52:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] POR on threads
In-Reply-To: <26481.49614.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <26481.49614.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CE30923-94E8-42E0-A208-62CD30EC59DF@yahoo.com>

Run a tap down the threads...should cut the paint

Todd

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 26, 2010, at 10:58 AM, Timothy Holbrook <tjh173 at yahoo.com> wrote:

> Guys - my brother has a GT6 and recently had his floors replaced.  Body
shop
> used POR on the floors, which is great stuff as we all know - BUT...some
POR
> seems to have made its way to the captive nuts for the seat mounts,
seatbelt
> mounts, etc, and he's having a tough time getting the bolts to thread.
He's
> understandably worried about stripping the threads.
>
>
> Thoughts on how best
> to resolve this?  Just go slowly and lube the threads as he
> goes?  Or is
> there something he can use to try to clean the POR off the threads
> beforehand?
>
> Tim Holbrook
> 1971 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/red_tr250 at yahoo.com

From apackard68 at att.net  Thu Aug 26 10:01:58 2010
From: apackard68 at att.net (apackard68 at att.net)
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 16:01:58 +0000
Subject: [6pack] POR on threads
In-Reply-To: <26481.49614.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <26481.49614.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1551790607-1282838520-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1234772766-@bda328.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Use a well-oiled tap with a cordless drill and run it through each thread.
Andy
Sent via BlackBerry from T-Mobile

-----Original Message-----
From: Timothy Holbrook <tjh173 at yahoo.com>
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 07:58:58 
To: 6Pack List<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] POR on threads

Guys - my brother has a GT6 and recently had his floors replaced.  Body shop
used POR on the floors, which is great stuff as we all know - BUT...some POR
seems to have made its way to the captive nuts for the seat mounts, seatbelt
mounts, etc, and he's having a tough time getting the bolts to thread.  He's
understandably worried about stripping the threads.  


Thoughts on how best
to resolve this?  Just go slowly and lube the threads as he 
goes?  Or is
there something he can use to try to clean the POR off the threads
beforehand?

Tim Holbrook
1971 TR6
_______________________________________________

6pack at autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/apackard68 at att.net

From dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com  Thu Aug 26 13:27:05 2010
From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com (Dave Waldorf)
Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:27:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] POR on threads (apackard68@att.net)
Message-ID: <E2329AC717FB438EAA05267A62CB851B@DavePC>

I would never use a cordless drill with a tap.  Taps are VERY hard, and will
cross thread and cut into the captive nuts easily, ruining them.  You're
also running the risk of breaking the (brittle) tap off in the nut.  
 
This is something that should be done manually with a tap handle, backing
the tap out out a 1/4 turn occasionally to be sure there's nothing
interfering with the threads.
 
--Dave Waldorf

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Thu Aug 26 18:38:59 2010
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2010 00:38:59 +0000
Subject: [6pack] POR on threads (apackard68@att.net)
In-Reply-To: <E2329AC717FB438EAA05267A62CB851B@DavePC>
References: <E2329AC717FB438EAA05267A62CB851B@DavePC>
Message-ID: <BAY156-w512DA8E7B8D3EDC6784943CF860@phx.gbl>

The guy I get POR from claims the stuff will tighten up a worn thread. He says
you should fill all the threads and tap to make them seal and snug up better.



> From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Thu, 26 Aug 2010 15:27:05 -0400
> Subject: Re: [6pack] POR on threads (apackard68 at att.net)
>
> I would never use a cordless drill with a tap.  Taps are VERY hard, and
will
> cross thread and cut into the captive nuts easily, ruining them.  You're
> also running the risk of breaking the (brittle) tap off in the nut.
>
> This is something that should be done manually with a tap handle, backing
> the tap out out a 1/4 turn occasionally to be sure there's nothing
> interfering with the threads.
>
> --Dave Waldorf
> _______________________________________________
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/slbridge at hotmail.com

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 31 09:08:59 2010
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:08:59 +0000
Subject: [6pack] A/C setup For Sale
Message-ID: <BAY156-w40897EA2993B6853B357EBCF8A0@phx.gbl>

Not mine, on other side of state, so I can't go look at it for you.



"1976 tr6 factory air conditioner parts compressor does not work very rare
hard to find call 605-271-5090


"

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Tue Aug 31 09:13:27 2010
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Tue, 31 Aug 2010 15:13:27 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 A/C unit
Message-ID: <BAY156-w19AAD5E51F1CA278275901CF8A0@phx.gbl>

1976 tr6 factory air conditioner parts compressor does not work very rare hard
to find call 605-271-5090

Not mine, it's on the other side of the state, so I can't assist in any way.

From j.honor at comcast.net  Tue Aug 31 20:51:32 2010
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Sep 2010 02:51:32 +0000 (UTC)
Subject: [6pack] seat belt starter interlock
Message-ID: <1657990637.747027.1283309492032.JavaMail.root@sz0075a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>

I have 74 TR6, currently I have no problem with what I consider the dreaded starter lockout due to mind of own seat belt interface module. I know having down this before a couple of years ago- placed a jumper on the seat belt module I think on pin # 11 & 12 thereby cutting out this daterderly circuit. let me know your thoughts. Don Master book references connecting WR and WO wires to otain similar results-I think? welcome your thoughts and solution to this prior to my upcoming roadtrip. regards, Joe