From mark at bradakis.com Thu Apr 1 01:39:52 2010 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 02:39:52 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] Fools and Funding Message-ID: <20100401083952.1B4252E022@bradakis.com> No, this is not a political rant about the scoundrels on Capitol Hill. I'll rant about that elsewhere, probably the prattle forum on the Team.Net forums. For the moment, though, consider this my annual State of Team.Net speech. It is getting sent out on All Fool's Day. More on that in a bit. Back in April of 1991 the domain team.net was registered. We are 19 years old this month. Of course there were a few years before then that email was just sent to various places as the lists were in their infancy. The patriarch of the family was SOL, the Scions of Lucas, thanks to Dale Cook and Jim Muller. Now there are over 60 Team.Net email lists, and about 14,000 subscribers scattered about the planet. And 19 years old describes my age when I moved to Salt Lake City, a young lad looking for adventure in the mountains through climbing and skiing. And many an adventure was to be had. The biggest was no doubt the Weird Winter Wall trip of 1977. I really need to write that up, get a bunch of the slides digitized to share with others. The short version is that I am amazingly lucky to still be alive. It was April 1st, 1977 when the four of us, hungry and exhausted, demoralized and chilled to the bone sat on a mountainside in the Wind Rivers and watched the sun come up. Sunrises are always beautiful, but to this day those first faintly glowing streaks of red, orange and gold have never looked so welcome as on that morning. We knew we'd make it, we'd see more sunrises. It seems appropriate that we returned to civilization on April Fool's day. A winter ascent of the North Face of Mt. Hooker seems a fool's errand in hindsight. But I survived. And Team.Net has survived. There have certainly been many times over the years when I've felt the fool for putting in the effort to keep it going. Just hitting the off switch and walking away would have been so easy. But far more prominent are the occasions where a well crafted message, an unsolicited thank you or donation, a T shirt or some trinket unexpectedly showing up at my doorstep makes me realize what a treasure Team.Net has been over the years. There are untold old classics out there still on the road, thanks to you folks. Sure, you may have never turned a wrench on them, or pushed them in or out of the garage, but the technical support provided, along with the email equivalent of a friendly smile and a heartfelt pat on the back has kept folks going. They've taken that fool's errand of a hopeless restoration and brought it back from near death to see another sunrise. If you see fit, please make use of the information provided at http://www.team.net/donate.html mjb. "But look, the morn in russet mantle clad walks o'er the dew of yon high eastward hill" Hamlet, Wm. Shakespeare From shewfamily at aol.com Thu Apr 1 07:23:06 2010 From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 10:23:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Cooling/Oil Pressure Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC9FBDFB60FC66-1AD8-1950A@webmail-m019.sysops.aol.com> I have had the TR6 out several times over the winter when temperatures would allow, but more recently I am starting to drive it more now that the weather is staying at a nice 70 degrees. I experienced a problem with my temp gauge creeping up not to the hot area, but at most about two needle widths past the normal line in the center of the guage. Usually the temp gauge stays about a needle width below the center mark. At the same time I have noticed that my oil pressure has dropped from about 75 lbs at 70 mph to around 68 to 70 lbs. At times at speed, the oil pressure gauge will move quickly down to 50 lbs and back up to around 70 lbs. The oil pressure at idle is just slightly below 30 lbs when it has always been right at 30 lbs. I thought maybe it was getting a little hotter than normal and so I replaced the thermostat. Thought it fixed it but it still show around 70 pounds but the temp gauge now doesn't go any higher than one needle width above the center mark. It appears that my oil pressure is actually at 75 lbs when I am cruising in 4th gear doing 45 mph and 2,000 RPM and 70 lbs with driving 70 in OD and turning 2,500 RPM. Anyone have any suggestions? Oil is on the full mark and I have checked it to make sure it is not diluted with gas from a sticking float valve. Help. John Shewmake '74 TR6 Birmingham, Al From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Apr 1 09:18:05 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 09:18:05 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Cooling/Oil Pressure Problem In-Reply-To: <8CC9FBDFB60FC66-1AD8-1950A@webmail-m019.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC9FBDFB60FC66-1AD8-1950A@webmail-m019.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725691E00F0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> John: With the exception of the unexpected 20PSI drop at speed, everything sounds in spec to me. The thermostat running a little warmer than usual would explain the slight drop in oil pressure as the oil thins when warm. Given the tolerance on the temp gauges and thermostats, the temp sounds solid to me even though it is slightly elevated. It is the occasional drop of 20 PSI that is the concern in my book. No sludge or junk in the oil? When was your filter last changed? Could it be that the bypass valve is opening because the filter is clogged or nearly clogged? Have you modified the oiling system, perhaps with an oil feed to the top end? You may be having issues with oil being slow to drain back into the crankcase, so that the pump occasionally picks up some air. Anything else you have noticed that might help diagnosis? Does it occur after spirited driving? After a left or a right turn? When going downhill or decelerating? Etc... My thoughts on the subject: 1. Change your oil filter - If it is a spin on filter, make sure it has a bypass valve in it. 2. If your oil is due for a change, do so. 3. If you are running an oil line to the top end, consider removing it as a last resort. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of shewfamily at aol.com Subject: [6pack] Cooling/Oil Pressure Problem I experienced a problem with my temp gauge creeping up not to the hot area, but at most about two needle widths past the normal line in the center of the guage. At the same time I have noticed that my oil pressure has dropped from about 75 lbs at 70 mph to around 68 to 70 lbs. At times at speed, the oil pressure gauge will move quickly down to 50 lbs and back up to around 70 lbs. The oil pressure at idle is just slightly below 30 lbs when it has always been right at 30 lbs. John Shewmake From TR250Driver at aol.com Thu Apr 1 09:41:13 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Thu, 1 Apr 2010 12:41:13 EDT Subject: [6pack] Update on TriumphBob Message-ID: Hi, Bob is still in the Cleveland Clinic and has gone thru another 7 day Chemo treatment. What followed was a series of stomach problems and two weeks of misery that really took him to the brink. Last Sunday he was finally able to hold down some solid food, "Diced pears, 6 teaspoons of mashed potatoes and 1 tater tot made for a superb day!" according to his wife, Ava who has the following request that I would like to share with all his Triumph friends: I have a specific prayer request at this time. Bob will have another bone marrow biopsy on Thursday, 4/1. We MUST get the results showing NO leukemia cells present in his marrow. His body is still fighting a very serious infection and he would not be able to have more chemo should the results be otherwise so, PLEASE pray for a marrow clear of any leukemia cells. Again.....thank you for all the Emails, cards and prayers. Bob IS getting better, but his biggest hurdle is just around the corner. Fondly, Ava In addition to your prayers if you would like to send him an e-mail his address is posted below in my original post. If you would like to send him a card his address is: The Cleveland Clinic Foundation Attn: Robert Palmer G111-20 9500 Euclid Ave. Cleveland, OH 44195 Regards, Darrell (Original Post) Hi Guys, Just thought I should post a note about our dear friend Bob Palmer. I am sure many of you know him for he has been my sidekick for nearly 20 years now as we have done all things Triumph together. We recently made the trek to the NATC in SLO together. It was a great life time experience for both of us. Bob has been in the Cleveland Clinic for a week now battling an acute blood disorder that came on suddenly. Aggressive Chemo Therapy has been conducted for 7 days and now Bob is resting and awaiting bone marrow tests which will determine the next course of treatment. He is in good spirits and a strong person so the prognosis for a full recovery is good. If you would like to send him a note of encouragement for a full recovery his e-mail is _TriumphBob at aol.com_ (mailto:TriumphBob at aol.com) . His lovely wife Ava is by his side and printing out all his e-mails for him. God Bless Him, Darrell From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Apr 1 14:02:50 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 21:02:50 GMT Subject: [6pack] Cooling/Oil Pressure Problem Message-ID: John---Any change, such as what you have witnessed, bears watching. It doesn't sound critical tho. On the oil gauge, it looks like your pump had picked up some air. This can happen when making a sudden change in up/downhill direction, especially if the oil was not up to temperature when this was seen. If this becomes common, and a simple oil and filter change doesn't solve it, you may want to drop the sump and remove the oil pump to clean the screen. On the water temp + side of this, check the following: a) Water pump pulley belt tension. b) Remove the radiator cap and run the engine long enough to bring it up to temp. Now with the thermostat open, check for air bubbles in the water return. Run the engine long enough to purge any air. If the bubbles never stop, there could be air getting in thru a blown head gasket, or?? c) Check ignition timing. Retarded timing can increase engine temperatures, which could explain both. Dick -----Original Message----- From: shewfamily at aol.com Sent: Thursday, April 1, 2010 7:23 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Cooling/Oil Pressure Problem I have had the TR6 out several times over the winter when temperatures would allow, but more recently I am starting to drive it more now that the weather is staying at a nice 70 degrees. I experienced a problem with my temp gauge creeping up not to the hot area, but at most about two needle widths past the normal line in the center of the guage. Usually the temp gauge stays about a needle width below the center mark. At the same time I have noticed that my oil pressure has dropped from about 75 lbs at 70 mph to around 68 to 70 lbs. At times at speed, the oil pressure gauge will move quickly down to 50 lbs and back up to around 70 lbs. The oil pressure at idle is just slightly below 30 lbs when it has always been right at 30 lbs. I thought maybe it was getting a little hotter than normal and so I replaced the thermostat. Thought it fixed it but it still show around 70 pounds but the temp gauge now doesn't go any higher than one needle width above the center mark. It appears that my oil pressure is actually at 75 lbs when I am cruising in 4th gear doing 45 mph and 2,000 RPM and 70 lbs with driving 70 in OD and turning 2,500 RPM. Anyone have any suggestions? Oil is on the full mark and I have checked it to make sure it is not diluted with gas from a sticking float valve. Help. John Shewmake '74 TR6 Birmingham, Al _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From shewfamily at aol.com Thu Apr 1 20:43:54 2010 From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com) Date: Thu, 01 Apr 2010 23:43:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Cooling/Oil Pressure Problem In-Reply-To: <8CC9FD9FEBA8734-B68-1CB5D@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CC9FBDFB60FC66-1AD8-1950A@webmail-m019.sysops.aol.com> <8CC9FD9FEBA8734-B68-1CB5D@webmail-d092.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CCA02DD9CEDD09-774-80F7@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> Thanks to everyone who replied. When I find the problem, I will post the solution. John Shewmake '74 TR6 Birmingham, AL From osternd at copper.net Fri Apr 2 09:35:13 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 09:35:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller Message-ID: <20100402093513.96CA491C@resin12.mta.everyone.net> From osternd at copper.net Fri Apr 2 12:33:23 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 12:33:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller Message-ID: <20100402123323.96CA629F@resin12.mta.everyone.net> From osternd at copper.net Fri Apr 2 15:37:22 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 15:37:22 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller Part1 Message-ID: <20100402153722.96CA7FF3@resin12.mta.everyone.net> From osternd at copper.net Fri Apr 2 15:38:50 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 15:38:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller (Part2) Message-ID: <20100402153850.96CA7FEB@resin12.mta.everyone.net> /HiyPPT: Permission denied From osternd at copper.net Fri Apr 2 18:08:16 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 18:08:16 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller (Retry) Message-ID: <20100402180816.96CA0354@resin12.mta.everyone.net> Please forgive the multiple failed attempts at posting this - I think the copy and paste from Word caused some issues with the server, or perhaps the rich text of my mail program ?? Ok - hopefully it works this time. My original message - Hey Guys, Hope I'm not breaching any list etiquette here, but thought I'd introduce a new overdrive controller to the 6-pack list to see if there's any interest - A little history: I'm a long time lurker on the list and own several Triumphs and other British cars, some with overdrives. I got tired of the usual inadvertent OD engagement every time I drove my cars, and set out to design a controller to alleviate the problem. I've dedicated a lot of resources toward this to get it right, and finally developed something that I'm happy with and feel is worth sharing with the LBC community. The details: The controller is a very small (less than 1 cu in) three wire unit (2 bullet type connectors and a ground lug) and features two LEDs for wiring verification and troubleshooting. Installation is straightforward and goes between the transmission tunnel kidney pads. The unit should work with all overdrives, though right now I'm focusing on the TR250/TR6 A and J type. The controller works with existing components - no extra switch is required. Operation of the overdrive is as before the controller, but the od is locked from engagement whenever the transmission is shifted into neutral. The overdrive will not re-engage until transmission is shifted back into an overdrive compatible gear (3rd or 4th and 2nd for A-type), and the overdrive switch is cycled off then on (or just on if previously off). I'm currently using this in my own TR6, and it makes a world of difference in the operation of the overdrive - something the factory should have done from the beginning, though the (practical) technology probably wasn't available at the time. I've included some pictures of the controller at : http://tinyurl.com/od-control Any questions - please ask. $45 plus shipping ($4.95 US). Email at od_cntl at hotmail.com - should also work with Paypal if you're interested in ordering - Thanks for your time (and patience!) Dale Osterndorf From johncnorth at gmail.com Fri Apr 2 20:03:07 2010 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 23:03:07 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller (Retry) In-Reply-To: <20100402180816.96CA0354@resin12.mta.everyone.net> References: <20100402180816.96CA0354@resin12.mta.everyone.net> Message-ID: So this prevents us from dropping from 4th OD directly into 3rd OD, which I seem to do quite regularly... John North On Fri, Apr 2, 2010 at 9:08 PM, wrote: > Please forgive the multiple failed attempts at posting this - I think > the copy and paste from Word caused some issues with the server, or > perhaps the rich text of my mail program ?? > > Ok - hopefully it works this time. My original message - > > Hey Guys, > > Hope I'm not breaching any list etiquette here, but thought I'd > introduce a new overdrive controller to the 6-pack list to see if > there's any interest - > > A little history: I'm a long time lurker on the list and own several > Triumphs and other British cars, some with overdrives. I got tired > of the usual inadvertent OD engagement every time I drove my cars, > and set out to design a controller to alleviate the problem. I've > dedicated a lot of resources toward this to get it right, and finally > developed something that I'm happy with and feel is worth sharing > with the LBC community. > > The details: The controller is a very small (less than 1 cu in) > three wire unit (2 bullet type connectors and a ground lug) and > features two LEDs for wiring verification and troubleshooting. > Installation is straightforward and goes between the transmission > tunnel kidney pads. The unit should work with all overdrives, though > right now I'm focusing on the TR250/TR6 A and J type. > > The controller works with existing components - no extra switch is > required. Operation of the overdrive is as before the > controller, but the od is locked from engagement whenever the > transmission is shifted into neutral. The overdrive will not > re-engage until transmission is shifted back into an overdrive > compatible gear (3rd or 4th and 2nd for A-type), and the overdrive > switch is cycled off then on (or just on if previously off). I'm > currently using this in my own TR6, and it makes a world of > difference in the operation of the overdrive - something the factory > should have done from the beginning, though the (practical) > technology probably wasn't available at the time. > > I've included some pictures of the controller at : > http://tinyurl.com/od-control > > Any questions - please ask. $45 plus shipping ($4.95 US). Email at > od_cntl at hotmail.com - should also work with Paypal if you're > interested in ordering - > > Thanks for your time (and patience!) > > Dale Osterndorf > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/johncnorth at gmail.com From osternd at copper.net Sat Apr 3 03:35:24 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 03:35:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller (Retry) Message-ID: <20100403033524.96CA1D6E@resin12.mta.everyone.net> John, If you mean that when you're in 4th OD and downshifting into 3rd and having the OD engage on you - yes it will prevent that. My biggest problem, and the reason I designed the controller, was having the OD engage after stopping because I forgot to turn it off. After starting back up and doing the 1 - 2 shift, I'd hit 3rd and the OD would engage when I was trying to accelerate. I do that a lot as I usually shift into neutral to coast to a stop. Dale O --- johncnorth at gmail.com wrote: From: John North To: undisclosed-recipients: ; Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Overdrive Controller (Retry) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 23:03:07 -0400 So this prevents us from dropping from 4th OD directly into 3rd OD, which I seem to do quite regularly... John North From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Apr 3 04:50:31 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 11:50:31 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Controller (Retry) In-Reply-To: <20100403033524.96CA1D6E@resin12.mta.everyone.net> References: <20100403033524.96CA1D6E@resin12.mta.everyone.net> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F5040EBC@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> An OD logic controller is something the TR6 should have come with from the beginning. There are at least two other products that have been around for several years, one is a momentary switch based controller from Revington which a lot of people like but requires a different switch http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=EQQA3SRE4AU58LUFE X56JD8E2UFK0P2E&CarType=TR6&ProductID=RTR1001K the other (which I have installed) is this device from Tim Trinda in the UK, this also works with the original switch and has provision for a lamp to tell you that the OD has been locked out until you cycle the switch. http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Triumph-TR3-TR4-TR5-TR6-Overdrive-Logic-Controller---NR _W0QQitemZ250595145072QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxq20100313?IMSfp=TL100313125001r4310 Stan From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Apr 3 09:06:06 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 12:06:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 prop shaft removal Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE31334BB@CMS01.winhosting.local> I'm fairly convinced I have a bad U-joint in my TR6's driveline. It's aggravating that there is not an obviously bad u-joint visually, but I guess they aren't that clear until apart. It's gone from a rumble at highway until now almost unable to go faster than 5 mph without shrieking and rumble, so lucky just to get home. Since the rumbling and scraping noise is about 3-4 times faster than wheel speed, I guess it is in the prop shaft rather than after the differential. Rear hubs and diff are all new inside and left right play on shafts seems about equal. It's been too long since I did this job. Does the prop shaft come out forward or back? i.e. I have the rear of the car on ramps and have removed my exhaust system, but it's still not 100% obvious which way it comes out. I'm thinking of undoing the output flanges on the diff first so that I can spin the diff and the prop shaft and avoid having to disassemble the interior to get at the top flange bolts. Am I missing some easier way to go about this? Mark 1972 TR6 From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sat Apr 3 16:56:14 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sat, 3 Apr 2010 16:56:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller Message-ID: <902943.86071.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I just returned from a car show today and on 3 or 4 occassions I forgot to disengage the OD. Since I rarely downshift from 4th OD to 3rd OD or 2nd OD I don't think this would present a problem for me. I have the A type OD so when I forget to disengage the OD I get a short period of 2nd gear before the 2nd OD kicks in which tends to P**s me off for being so forgetful. I know this is probably a further sign of senile decay but the OD controller sounds like a good idea to me. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 with OD From osternd at hotmail.com Fri Apr 2 06:42:59 2010 From: osternd at hotmail.com (Dale O) Date: Fri, 2 Apr 2010 13:42:59 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Overdrive Controller Message-ID: Hey Guys, Hope Im not breaching any list etiquette here, but thought I'd introduce a new overdrive controller to the 6-pack list to see if there's any interest - A little history: I'm a long time lurker on the list and own several Triumphs and other Brit cars, some with overdrives. I got tired of the usual inadvertent OD engagement every time I drove my cars, and set out to design a controller to alleviate the problem. I've dedicated a lot of resources toward this to get it right, and finally developed something that I'm happy with and feel is worth sharing with the LBC community. The details: The controller is a very small (less than 1 cu in) three wire unit ( 2 bullet type connectors and a ground lug) and features two LEDs for verification and troubleshooting. Installation is straightforward and goes between the transmission tunnel kidney pads. The unit should work with all overdrives, though right now I'm focusing on the TR250/TR6 A and J type. The controller works with existing components - no extra switches are required. Operation of the overdrive is as before using the controller, but od is locked from engagement whenever the transmission is shifted into neutral. The overdrive will not re-engage until transmission is shifted back into an overdrive compatible gear ( 3rd or 4th - 2nd for A-type), and the overdrive switch is cycled off then on (or just on if previously off). I'm currently using this in my own TR6, and it makes a world of difference in the operation of the overdrive - something the factory should have done from the beginning, though the (practical) technology probably wasn't available at the time. I've included some pictures of the controller at : http://tinyurl.com/od-control Any questions - please ask. $45 plus shipping ($4.95 US). Email at od_cntl at hotmail.com - should also work with Paypal if you want to order - Thanks for your time Dale Osterndorf _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Apr 3 17:32:51 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 00:32:51 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR6 prop shaft removal Message-ID: Mark---Chances are good that it is the propshaft u-joint, as you suspect. The way it sounds to you should mean that you can usually tell which one of the 'joints is the culprit. Turning the propshaft forward and back should show some play, and there should be none. A good light on the area should help. If you're still not convinced you've got the right ones, hit both of these with several shots of grease and take the car around the block. Grease should lesson what you were hearing. Taking out this shaft is by going forward and out the bottom by the tranny flange. Know that you may have to orient the propflange to get it to collapse so it clears things. If the tranny's rubber supports are soft you may have to put a jack under the tranny to give it the extra lift for clearance. In some cases, loosening the two 3/4" bolts gives even more clearance. Since this is the most time consuming of all u-joints to get to, you'll want to change both of them Dick -----Original Message----- From: Mark Hooper Sent: Saturday, April 3, 2010 9:06 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 prop shaft removal I'm fairly convinced I have a bad U-joint in my TR6's driveline. It's aggravating that there is not an obviously bad u-joint visually, but I guess they aren't that clear until apart. It's gone from a rumble at highway until now almost unable to go faster than 5 mph without shrieking and rumble, so lucky just to get home. Since the rumbling and scraping noise is about 3-4 times faster than wheel speed, I guess it is in the prop shaft rather than after the differential. Rear hubs and diff are all new inside and left right play on shafts seems about equal. It's been too long since I did this job. Does the prop shaft come out forward or back? i.e. I have the rear of the car on ramps and have removed my exhaust system, but it's still not 100% obvious which way it comes out. I'm thinking of undoing the output flanges on the diff first so that I can spin the diff and the prop shaft and avoid having to disassemble the interior to get at the top flange bolts. Am I missing some easier way to go about this? Mark 1972 TR6 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From cgrimes at golden.net Sun Apr 4 10:25:21 2010 From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 12:25:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator regulator connections Message-ID: Help with alternator woes ? I am trying to connect a new regulator on the alterator (15acr) It has a yellow and a black connection the regualtor case mounted isolated on the brush box . could anyone identify what goes where. much appreciated colin 71 6 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 4 12:18:56 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 13:18:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] steering wheel Message-ID: Happy Easter, all! I hope your weekend has been as fun as mine! (My son came home from college for the weekend, and we went to a huge car show yesterday!) the steering wheel on our 72, which might be original (who knows!) is the rubber over metal. there is about a 3" crack in the rubber. is there a way I can patch that without replacing the whole wheel? is there a way of replacing all the rubber at once? (pulease don't tell me to get one of those covers you tie with lanyard . . .) and, for those of you who have replaced the wheel, what was your choice, why, and how do you feel about it now? thanks to all! From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 4 16:21:24 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 18:21:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] steering wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <201004041821.24429.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Sunday 04 April 2010 02:18:56 pm oliver wrote: > Happy Easter, all! > > I hope your weekend has been as fun as mine! (My son came home from > college for the weekend, and we went to a huge car show yesterday!) > > the steering wheel on our 72, which might be original (who knows!) is the > rubber over metal. there is about a 3" crack in the rubber. is there a > way I can patch that without replacing the whole wheel? is there a way of > replacing all the rubber at once? (pulease don't tell me to get one of > those covers you tie with lanyard . . .) > I put a Wheelskins leather cover on my 63 TR4. Yes it is a PITA to install but it does look and feel great. On my 6, my wheel was in terrible shape so I got a Moto-Lita wood. Looks great. I think it was about 150 on Ebay. Bob > and, for those of you who have replaced the wheel, what was your choice, > why, and how do you feel about it now? > > thanks to all! > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/yellowtr at adelphia.net From osternd at copper.net Sun Apr 4 18:11:19 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Sun, 4 Apr 2010 17:11:19 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Alternator regulator connections Message-ID: <20100404171119.96CB8810@resin12.mta.everyone.net> From shewfamily at aol.com Sun Apr 4 20:13:02 2010 From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com) Date: Sun, 04 Apr 2010 22:13:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] steering wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCA27CA7AEBEBD-23C0-1E7E2@webmail-d024.sysops.aol.com> Oliver, I replaced mine with a nice wooden wheel. My original TR6 wheel was in good shape, but I wanted wood. It makes an incredible difference in the look of the car. John Shewmake '74 TR6 Birmingham, Al -----Original Message----- From: oliver To: '6 Pack list' <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, Apr 4, 2010 1:18 pm Subject: [6pack] steering wheel Happy Easter, all! I hope your weekend has been as fun as mine! (My son came home from college or the weekend, and we went to a huge car show yesterday!) the steering wheel on our 72, which might be original (who knows!) is the ubber over metal. there is about a 3" crack in the rubber. is there a way I an patch that without replacing the whole wheel? is there a way of replacing ll the rubber at once? (pulease don't tell me to get one of those covers you ie with lanyard . . .) and, for those of you who have replaced the wheel, what was your choice, why, nd how do you feel about it now? thanks to all! ______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/shewfamily at aol.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 5 10:25:05 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 09:25:05 -0700 Subject: [6pack] steering wheel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725691E0C62@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Oliver: Get some flexible body filler from your auto parts store, used for repairing plastic bumpers on cars. If the grip is loose on the rim, you can punch holes in the loose rubber on the back of the wheel, and squirt weather stripping adhesive into the holes to glue the grip to the steel ring. Use lots of pressure to force the glue around inside the rubber. Use a sharp blade and enlarge the crack by cutting a groove in the rubber about 3/16 wide or so. Fill the groove with the body filler, following the contours of the wheel as closely as possible. Allow it to set, and then sand the repair to the final shape, smoothing it into the wheel surface. Lastly, mask the wheel spokes and give it several coats of flexible vinyl dash paint (also from the auto parts store), allowing the wheel to dry between coats. Your wheel will look and feel literally brand new, like a buttery leather. Very satisfying restoration and the dash paint is very durable with just the right sheen. Much better than paying $330 for a NOS wheel, which is what the last one went for on eBay. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver The steering wheel on our 72, which might be original (who knows!) is the rubber over metal. there is about a 3" crack in the rubber. is there a way I can patch that without replacing the whole wheel? is there a way of replacing all the rubber at once? (please don't tell me to get one of those covers you tie with lanyard . . .) From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 5 14:19:14 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 13:19:14 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925A786@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Wow. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1604177 33777&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT How can one TR6 part be worth that much, and my whole car is only worth a bit more? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast http://www.triumphowners.com/832 From stuartt at tlthompson.com Mon Apr 5 15:06:02 2010 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Mon, 5 Apr 2010 16:06:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925A786@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <19FEC1C3CB7C4E868A753B812ED2D2DB@Dell320> That item has already been removed. What was it?? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:19 PM Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! > Wow. > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1604177 > 33777&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT > > How can one TR6 part be worth that much, and my whole car is only > worth a bit more? > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > http://www.triumphowners.com/832 From fishplate at charter.net Mon Apr 5 16:22:15 2010 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 18:22:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Bushing installation Message-ID: <1yMn1e00F5K6Zm805yMs4X@charter.net> I'm rebuilding the front suspension on my 75 TR6. Before I just bolt everything up, it seems like lubricating the rubber bushings with something will make assembly and settling easier and more even. What is the collective wisdom regarding rubber bushing lubrication? I have an idea, but want to check with the group as well... Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 5 18:02:05 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 00:02:05 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! In-Reply-To: <19FEC1C3CB7C4E868A753B812ED2D2DB@Dell320> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925A786@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <19FEC1C3CB7C4E868A753B812ED2D2DB@Dell320> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F5042637@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> It was an unused original later model TR6 steering wheel with horn push and when I checked shortly after Vance's email it had 10 bids and the auction ended at $610. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 5:06 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! That item has already been removed. What was it?? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, April 05, 2010 3:19 PM Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! > Wow. > > > http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=1604177 > 33777&viewitem=&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWAX%3AIT > > How can one TR6 part be worth that much, and my whole car is only > worth a bit more? > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > http://www.triumphowners.com/832 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stan.foster at hp.com From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Apr 5 22:31:13 2010 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Mon, 05 Apr 2010 22:31:13 -0600 Subject: [6pack] was steering wheel--now Barn Find For Sale References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725691E0C62@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <31D2AF745D694190B1E6F4B5E9935E7A@willhuq4x0qsgd> Vance: >Much better than paying $330 for a NOS wheel, which is what the last one >went for on eBay. Wow! that is a shocker. I have a decent steering wheel on my 1970 TR6 which is an authentic barn find having spent 20 years in a real barn. I was thinking of selling the whole car, but maybe it would be worthwhile to dismantle it. It has 59,000+ miles on the odo. It has no motor or transmission., has tires that hold air, (even the one redline tire), the top is shot, and upholstery is poor, (except for the passenger seat). The only rust spot is a small hole or two under the pedals and a bit of rust around the battery box. The rockers are solid and rust free.. The body is straight, with here is a little damage to the front edge of the right fender., and a small ding in the lip of the left rear fender, all fenders are solid.. The hood (bonnet) has had a hole cut for a scoop. The front bumper is good, useable, but not show quality. The rear bumper side pieces are real good, but the center section has rust. The dash has all its instruments, and the dash seems to have survived the decades best of all. Because it has so little rust, it might be a candidate for someone doing a restoration. I am asking $1800 for the car. Any thoughts on dismantling a 1970 TR6 rather than selling the whole car? It is located just 2 hours drive straight north of Plentywood, Montana. All opinions are welcome. For some photos email bratt (at) sasktel.net Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan Canada, S4S6J3 From jsvannorman at gmail.com Tue Apr 6 13:10:30 2010 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 15:10:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! Message-ID: I just don't trust eBay anymore. Does eBay have a way of knowing whether the sell ever happens? I'm thinking that on a number of these "sold" items that the seller has a friend or another eBay account and is driving up the prices and that a real conveyance of the item never occurs. John V. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 6 14:15:05 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 16:15:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7DB2E7F756FE4438B98DCCD2562CE61D@BobPC> They don't know unless someone complains about sham bidding. A friend had that happen to him and they suspended his account for a month. Maybe they log IP addresses and can check to see if the bid is coming from the same IP under different account names. On the downside, if you "sell" an item, eBay takes their cut of the sale price when you mark the item as paid. If I'm bidding on something that I really want, the max I'll pay goes in within the final 5 - 10 seconds of the auction. I never bid earlier then that which is probably true of most winning bids. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "John VanNorman" Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 3:10 PM To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! > I just don't trust eBay anymore. Does eBay have a way of knowing > whether the sell ever happens? I'm thinking that on a number of these > "sold" items that the seller has a friend or another eBay account and > is driving up the prices and that a real conveyance of the item never > occurs. > > John V. > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Apr 6 14:25:32 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 15:25:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0A0A4DF45B53409C808B6FBFBB2F00F5@ranteer.local> I'm a network consultant. I was working on someone's computer when I saw an email from a friend of his telling him to bid a certain amount on a certain item. so yes, it does happen. -------------------------------------------------- From: "John VanNorman" Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 2:10 PM To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! > I just don't trust eBay anymore. Does eBay have a way of knowing > whether the sell ever happens? I'm thinking that on a number of these > "sold" items that the seller has a friend or another eBay account and > is driving up the prices and that a real conveyance of the item never > occurs. > > John V. From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 6 14:56:22 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 13:56:22 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925AF04@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> John: I must agree. If you look at the TR6s for sale, for example, invariably there are a handful that have 15-20 bids whereas the rest have at most 5 or 6 bids. If you look at the bidding history on those with 20 bids you will see one of two things: It is a private auction so you cannot tell who is bidding, or there will be several bids from people with no feedback, kinda like it is a brand new account. In both those cases, it seems to me that the bidding is fraudulent. It is getting increasingly difficult to feel good about using eBay, much less find a real deal. Sigh. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John VanNorman Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 12:11 PM To: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! I just don't trust eBay anymore. Does eBay have a way of knowing whether the sell ever happens? I'm thinking that on a number of these "sold" items that the seller has a friend or another eBay account and is driving up the prices and that a real conveyance of the item never occurs. John V. From slbridge at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 15:57:44 2010 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 21:57:44 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925AF04@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: , <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925AF04@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: I'm not sure that "Shill Bidding" is viable. You have your friend bid it up to.... where? If your friend doesn't quit soon enough, he wins your car; then what do you do? Now, he has to sell it, or you have to come up with a reason you are selling it again. Non-paying bidders are not common and a couple of those will have bidders wondering why nobody wants this car after they win it. Granted, odds are no one is watching, but people are sharper than crooks give them credit for and patterns of behavior and unique items are noticed. More likely is someone gets nervous that their treasure is going too cheap and has a friend bid, doesn't seem sporting to me, but in the end, they can't make me pay more than I want for something. eBay auctions are unique to the world in they end by a clock. "English" auctions go until no one wants to bid anymore. eBay thinks their way is superior (this applies to everything eBay has done and ever will do) but what they don't consider is best illustrated with this steering wheel. It will usually be won by he who bids the most at the last second. eBay says to put in your highest bid well ahead of the end, but that doesn't work as humans will pick away at something until they find out what is inside. So if you are on a budget, you will pay more unless you snipe. So if you have a fresh $30K restoration but no steering wheel on your TR-6, you can put in a million dollar bid as eBay suggests, or go snipe hunting on that NOS part. On Guns America, their auctions refresh for ten minutes every time a bid is placed. Just like the farm auction, at some point, one of the last two bidders is going to say: "I'll get the next one" and the clock will run out. That refreshing and extending allows one to get the item, and get it for the cheapest price of that item on that day. Your time has value. It respects the seller and bidder. The item brings what it is truly worth on that particular day, high or low, not cut short by a clock as fifty different people roll the Snipe Dice with 10 seconds left to go. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail has tools for the New Busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_1 From motrv8d at hotmail.com Tue Apr 6 16:22:50 2010 From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 22:22:50 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! In-Reply-To: <7DB2E7F756FE4438B98DCCD2562CE61D@BobPC> References: , <7DB2E7F756FE4438B98DCCD2562CE61D@BobPC> Message-ID: You guys think the steering wheel was high? Check out item number 250418912757 on eBay. > From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > To: jsvannorman at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 16:15:05 -0400 > Subject: Re: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! > > They don't know unless someone complains about sham bidding. A friend had > that happen to him and they suspended his account for a month. Maybe they > log IP addresses and can check to see if the bid is coming from the same IP > under different account names. > > On the downside, if you "sell" an item, eBay takes their cut of the sale > price when you mark the item as paid. > > If I'm bidding on something that I really want, the max I'll pay goes in > within the final 5 - 10 seconds of the auction. I never bid earlier then > that which is probably true of most winning bids. > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "John VanNorman" > Sent: Tuesday, April 06, 2010 3:10 PM > To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! > > > I just don't trust eBay anymore. Does eBay have a way of knowing > > whether the sell ever happens? I'm thinking that on a number of these > > "sold" items that the seller has a friend or another eBay account and > > is driving up the prices and that a real conveyance of the item never > > occurs. > > > > John V. > > _______________________________________________ > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > > Unsubscribe/Manage: > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/motrv8d at hotmail.com > _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Tue Apr 6 16:58:58 2010 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Bob McBride) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 18:58:58 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Holy Triumph, batman!! In-Reply-To: References: , <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925AF04@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <4DC5F223B29F48889858E1AA7D0931B4@BobPC> I thought you were to have your buddy open a new E bay account. then bid up your auction and win.. but he doesn't pay you so you then offer it to the person that he was bidding against as a second chance offer. He buys it pays you for it you buy your buddy a six pack for his time.. I will only bid twice on a auction one low ball at the beginning and my max bid snipe at 2 seconds to go. Win or lose.. From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 6 18:07:27 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 6 Apr 2010 17:07:27 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Viability of shill bidding In-Reply-To: References: , <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925AF04@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256925B0B3@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Steve: It is viable, especially with a reserve. You tell your buddy what the reserve is, and ask him to bid up your TR6 to just below the reserve. If no one else bids, your buddy is off the hook, and so are you. If you have no reserve, your buddy creates a new account with zero feedback using a hotmail or Gmail account. You ask your buddy to bid the car up to a certain value. Your buddy can make several bids in a row, in effect bidding against himself to give a high bid count. This may (or may not) generate some excitement in the belief that if there are many bids, it must be an especially desirable car. If your buddy wins the car, you turn him in as a non-paying bidder and he loses his new account (but keeps any "real" eBay account he may have). Since you did not sell the car, you are only out the listing fee. If eBay simply excluded the free e-mail services from bidding, shill bidding would drop dramatically. EBay won't do this because they profit from shill bidding, as does the seller that arranges it. I once saw a suspicious car on eBay up for sale. It stated in the auction that there was no title, and the VIN was missing from car. The picture showed an intact relatively new car, with low miles. The only reason for no title and no VIN that I can think of is that the car is stolen. I contacted eBay, stated my suspicions, and noted that it had no VIN in violation of eBay's written policies. The response from eBay was that they would not remove the posting unless I sent them a copy of the police report. Clearly eBay has few ethics, except those that make them money. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 From: steve bridge [mailto:slbridge at hotmail.com] I'm not sure that "Shill Bidding" is viable. From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 7 15:47:43 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 17:47:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Steering Wheel Message-ID: <201004071747.43449.yellowtr@adelphia.net> > Oliver wrote: > the steering wheel on our 72, which might be original (who knows!) is the > rubber over metal. there is about a 3" crack in the rubber. is there a > way I can patch that without replacing the whole wheel? is there a way of > replacing all the rubber at once? (pulease don't tell me to get one of > those covers you tie with lanyard . . .) > Oliver, I received my Wheelskins steering wheel cover for my TR3 today and it took about an hour to install. It looks great, just like my TR4. Cost was 49 + postage. The TR3 wheel is a 16.5 inch diameter wheel so I believe a 6 wheel is much shorter so it would be a little easier to install. The procedure is very straight forward you just have to do one stitch at a time and really pull them tight! Let me know if you want a photo. Bob From trguy at cfl.rr.com Wed Apr 7 18:26:41 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 7 Apr 2010 20:26:41 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question Message-ID: <002701cad6b2$2946f7c0$7bd4e740$@rr.com> It must be old age, but I forgot what temperature the coolant is at when the stock gauge is at the half way point? Thanks! Jim Henningsen 75 TR6 Maitland, FL From longroadhomefarm at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 07:25:35 2010 From: longroadhomefarm at gmail.com (James E. Long) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:25:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 frame repair Message-ID: Gentlemen, I have a 74.5 mimosa/chestnut which I purchased from the original owner in Rapid City, SD in 1986 while on active duty in the USAF. Rust was found in the trailing arms in 1990, during bushing replacement. I was in Washington DC at the time and had little time and no facilities to do the repair.myself. I left it up to the repair shop and they basically just welded plate over the frame, a quick and dirty repair to say the least. I now have much more time and want to do the repair right. While I covet a new Ratco frame I would like to save old frame if possible, silly sentimental value I guess. I can pull the body and easily deliver the bare frame to a shop. Can anyone recommend a shop in the central Midwest, I live about 1.5 hours south of St. Louis. Thanks, Jim Long From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Thu Apr 8 09:22:00 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 08:22:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Fuel Line Replacement Questions Message-ID: <878241.17649.qm@web65605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Crawling underneath while getting ready to replace brake lines I noticed my fuel lines from tank look corroded. Nothing looks too complicated. 1) Can I simply buy steel line and rubber hose at the local auto parts store to replace this? 2) My fuel filter is after the pump, close to carbs, not before pump it as the parts book shows. Is this okay? New fuel pump from Moss last year. Tank cleaned and lined by local rad shop several years ago. Fuel line from pump to carbs routed in front of rad for cooling. Thank you, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com. From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Apr 8 10:31:19 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 09:31:19 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Fuel Line Replacement Questions In-Reply-To: <878241.17649.qm@web65605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <878241.17649.qm@web65605.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725692BF28B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bruce: Plain steel line will work, but rubber hose will not. It will get brittle or swell, depending on what it is made of. You need to buy hose specifically intended for fuel - it tolerates gasoline without degrading. Forget what it is made of as compared to, say, heater hose, but it a special compound. Your fuel filter should be before the fuel pump. The fuel pump has some fine mesh strainers in it, and if they clog you are looking at a new pump or a rebuild. Better to let the fuel filter clog as it is easily replaced than to use the pump as a filter. If the worst case scenario happens, it is not the end of the world, the fuel pump rebuild kits are cheap. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Crawling underneath while getting ready to replace brake lines I noticed my fuel lines from tank look corroded. Nothing looks too complicated. 1) Can I simply buy steel line and rubber hose at the local auto parts store to replace this? 2) My fuel filter is after the pump, close to carbs, not before pump it as the parts book shows. Is this okay? Thank you, Bruce Simms From aktifspeed at gmail.com Thu Apr 8 17:10:24 2010 From: aktifspeed at gmail.com (Erik Sulcs) Date: Thu, 8 Apr 2010 19:10:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Water drainage tube in front fender... Message-ID: Hello List, In my '74 I've got water coming into the driver's side footwell when it rains or if I wash the car. I know there's supposed to be a drainage tube from somewhere under the hood/windshield cowl to send the water outside the fender. Perhaps mine is blocked or missing... how can I tell, and how can I get to it if that's actually the problem? Has anybody else had a similar issue and can help me resolve? Erik S. From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Apr 8 18:05:06 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 00:05:06 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Water drainage tube in front fender... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F5045ECD@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Erik, the plenum drains into the essentially closed section between the inner and outer fenders. It is a stupid design to start with but it gets worse when the plenum drains either get blocked or have a well around them where water collects and rots out the area around the exit tubes. If you get a flashlight and look under the dash, high up in the corners, you will see where the plenum drains exit the plenum and connect to a short rubber hose that drains into the inner/outer fender cavity. This is a notorious spot for rotting out and all of the consequences that you describe. You can often poke your finger through the rot and into the plenum. A common strategy during a rebuild is to extend the drain hoses so that they exit out through the baffle plates or through the bottom of the rocker panels to allow the water to exit. I also retrofitted the metal flap to my 74.5 to keep water out. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Erik Sulcs Sent: Thursday, April 08, 2010 7:10 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Water drainage tube in front fender... Hello List, In my '74 I've got water coming into the driver's side footwell when it rains or if I wash the car. I know there's supposed to be a drainage tube from somewhere under the hood/windshield cowl to send the water outside the fender. Perhaps mine is blocked or missing... how can I tell, and how can I get to it if that's actually the problem? Has anybody else had a similar issue and can help me resolve? Erik S. _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/stan.foster at hp.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Apr 8 23:38:10 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 09 Apr 2010 05:38:10 GMT Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question Message-ID: Jim---There's a 180 deg. thermostat in my cooling system. Under ordinary driving, the temperature gauge needle stops with the needle covering the center hash mark, so I take this to mean the needle will stop at whatever thermostat is controlling the system. There are reports from owners of the later six that their needle usually points between the second mark and center mark. This could mean there's a 160 thermostat in place, or there's a lot of gauges out there that don't read correctly. If in doubt, you could take a "candy" thermometer and check the coolant when the temp is at the normal operating area on the gauge. Dick '73 Los Angeles -----Original Message----- From: James Henningsen Sent: Wednesday, April 7, 2010 5:26 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question It must be old age, but I forgot what temperature the coolant is at when the stock gauge is at the half way point? Thanks! Jim Henningsen 75 TR6 Maitland, FL _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From trguy at cfl.rr.com Fri Apr 9 06:19:55 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 08:19:55 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001601cad7de$f70d0e60$e5272b20$@rr.com> Thanks! jim From: Btp44 at aol.com [mailto:Btp44 at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 07, 2010 10:35 PM To: trguy at cfl.rr.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question According to Peter Macholdt, who did a comparison betweem the stock temp gauge with a new mechanical one-180 deg is dead center and 185 on the 2nd small dot. Berry Price From trguy at cfl.rr.com Fri Apr 9 06:20:47 2010 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 08:20:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001b01cad7df$15f58050$41e080f0$@rr.com> Dick: Great idea and thanks for the info! Jim 75 TR6 Maitland, FL -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 1:38 AM To: James Henningsen; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question Jim---There's a 180 deg. thermostat in my cooling system. Under ordinary driving, the temperature gauge needle stops with the needle covering the center hash mark, so I take this to mean the needle will stop at whatever thermostat is controlling the system. There are reports from owners of the later six that their needle usually points between the second mark and center mark. This could mean there's a 160 thermostat in place, or there's a lot of gauges out there that don't read correctly. If in doubt, you could take a "candy" thermometer and check the coolant when the temp is at the normal operating area on the gauge. Dick '73 Los Angeles -----Original Message----- From: James Henningsen Sent: Wednesday, April 7, 2010 5:26 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question It must be old age, but I forgot what temperature the coolant is at when the stock gauge is at the half way point? Thanks! Jim Henningsen 75 TR6 Maitland, FL _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Apr 9 06:54:32 2010 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 08:54:32 EDT Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question Message-ID: <92dc5.78170a54.38f07d88@aol.com> Jim, I concur Dick's findings. I run a 160 and the needle indicates typically on the second mark, in hot weather it will reach center. The 180 tyically indicated center to the next-higher mark. Mine seems to run better with a 160. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC In a message dated 4/9/2010 8:42:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, trguy at cfl.rr.com writes: Dick: Great idea and thanks for the info! Jim 75 TR6 Maitland, FL -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 1:38 AM To: James Henningsen; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question Jim---There's a 180 deg. thermostat in my cooling system. Under ordinary driving, the temperature gauge needle stops with the needle covering the center hash mark, so I take this to mean the needle will stop at whatever thermostat is controlling the system. There are reports from owners of the later six that their needle usually points between the second mark and center mark. This could mean there's a 160 thermostat in place, or there's a lot of gauges out there that don't read correctly. If in doubt, you could take a "candy" thermometer and check the coolant when the temp is at the normal operating area on the gauge. Dick '73 Los Angeles -----Original Message----- From: James Henningsen Sent: Wednesday, April 7, 2010 5:26 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question It must be old age, but I forgot what temperature the coolant is at when the stock gauge is at the half way point? Thanks! Jim Henningsen 75 TR6 Maitland, FL _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6taylor at webtv.net _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/vsnively at aol.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Apr 9 07:16:05 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 08:16:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question In-Reply-To: <001b01cad7df$15f58050$41e080f0$@rr.com> References: <001b01cad7df$15f58050$41e080f0$@rr.com> Message-ID: standard equipment for everyone should be one of those infra red temp sensors. -------------------------------------------------- From: "James Henningsen" Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 7:20 AM To: "'Sally or Dick Taylor'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question > Dick: > Great idea and thanks for the info! > Jim > 75 TR6 > Maitland, FL > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] > Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 1:38 AM > To: James Henningsen; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question > > Jim---There's a 180 deg. thermostat in my cooling system. Under ordinary > driving, the temperature gauge needle stops with the needle covering the > center hash mark, so I take this to mean the needle will stop at whatever > thermostat is controlling the system. There are reports from owners of > the > later six that their needle usually points between the second mark and > center mark. This could mean there's a 160 thermostat in place, or there's > a > lot of gauges out there that don't read correctly. > > If in doubt, you could take a "candy" thermometer and check the coolant > when > the temp is at the normal operating area on the gauge. > > Dick From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Apr 9 08:22:59 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 07:22:59 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Engine runs better with 160 thermostat? In-Reply-To: <92dc5.78170a54.38f07d88@aol.com> References: <92dc5.78170a54.38f07d88@aol.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725692BF7EE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Vic: It is probably not your imagination. Running a cooler than stock thermostat is a racer's trick to increase power. Since the intake manifold is at the coolant temperature, installing a 160 thermostat effectively reduces the temp of the incoming air, rendering it denser and therefore containing more oxygen. This allows you to burn more fuel and create more power - all other things being equal. My hero, David Vizard (an Englishman by the way) has written many books on engine tuning, and mentions this regularly as a tuning trick. The downside (and there is always a downside) is that the engine oil runs cooler, and so collects more acids that shorten engine life. Also, if taken to extremes, the oil never warms up enough to achieve optimum lubricity - increasing wear and reducing economy. The downside can be partially mitigated by frequent oil changes to remove the acids and combustion products that would otherwise be driven off at higher temperatures. Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Vsnively at aol.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:55 AM To: trguy at cfl.rr.com; tr6taylor at webtv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question Jim, I concur Dick's findings. I run a 160 and the needle indicates typically on the second mark, in hot weather it will reach center. The 180 typically indicated center to the next-higher mark. Mine seems to run better with a 160. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Apr 9 08:43:54 2010 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 10:43:54 EDT Subject: [6pack] Engine runs better with 160 thermostat? Message-ID: <9a272.c07bff9.38f0972a@aol.com> Vance, Thanks, makes perfect sense. I should definitely change oil more often based on this info. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC In a message dated 4/9/2010 10:23:13 AM Eastern Daylight Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: Vic: It is probably not your imagination. Running a cooler than stock thermostat is a racer's trick to increase power. Since the intake manifold is at the coolant temperature, installing a 160 thermostat effectively reduces the temp of the incoming air, rendering it denser and therefore containing more oxygen. This allows you to burn more fuel and create more power - all other things being equal. My hero, David Vizard (an Englishman by the way) has written many books on engine tuning, and mentions this regularly as a tuning trick. The downside (and there is always a downside) is that the engine oil runs cooler, and so collects more acids that shorten engine life. Also, if taken to extremes, the oil never warms up enough to achieve optimum lubricity - increasing wear and reducing economy. The downside can be partially mitigated by frequent oil changes to remove the acids and combustion products that would otherwise be driven off at higher temperatures. Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Vsnively at aol.com Sent: Friday, April 09, 2010 5:55 AM To: trguy at cfl.rr.com; tr6taylor at webtv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Temp Gauge Question Jim, I concur Dick's findings. I run a 160 and the needle indicates typically on the second mark, in hot weather it will reach center. The 180 typically indicated center to the next-higher mark. Mine seems to run better with a 160. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Apr 9 10:40:27 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 9 Apr 2010 09:40:27 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Water drainage tube in front fender... In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795725692BF8D0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Relatively common problem. There is a nipple attached to the scuttle plenum under the dash, one above the passenger kick panel, one above the driver's kick panel. Attached to this is a short length of hose that is routed down and through the inner fender so that it ends between the inner and outer fender. The hose can become disconnected, or it simply rots and begins to leak. It is intended to drain rainwater from the scuttle, which enters via the fresh air vent at the base of the windscreen. I would reach up under the dash and pull one of the hoses out, then cut some heater or other suitable hose to the same length, and then replace them both. A simple job that will probably solve the problem for you. If your hoses are intact, then you may be looking at a loose connection to the scuttle, or a corrosion issue as suggested by others. I must say that my observation is that rust problems elsewhere on the car become painfully evident before the scuttle plenum becomes an issue. If it is due to rust through, the rest of your car must be in horrid condition. The water traveling through the scuttle is fresh, and so corrosion tends to be minimal in that location. I hope for your sake that is the case. Vance http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Erik Sulcs Hello List, In my '74 I've got water coming into the driver's side footwell when it rains or if I wash the car. I know there's supposed to be a drainage tube from somewhere under the hood/windshield cowl to send the water outside the fender. Perhaps mine is blocked or missing... how can I tell, and how can I get to it if that's actually the problem? Has anybody else had a similar issue and can help me resolve? Erik S. From tedtsimx at bright.net Sat Apr 10 05:56:23 2010 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] The Gathering Message-ID: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net> Hello list members. If any of you are going to be at The Gathering car show next Saturday, April 17, please stop by and say hello. We will be set up with a parts display. Gear starters to Kevlar brakes, suspension stuff and more. If you are attending and need any of our products brought down, here is the chance to save freight. Please let me know as soon as you can so we can get it packed.. Yes, we can bring big items such as engines, transmissions, etc. Thanks. See you there. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From wayne at motorcarriage.com Sat Apr 10 16:36:32 2010 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:36:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Headlight Dimmer Swith Message-ID: <5F59132020744F6491E6ACD713788631@D794W231> Hi Lister's, Other than standing on your Head writing down Plug Connections down in the Cockpit, Is there a trick to getting the Dimmer Switch's harness out of the Column? I can't seem to find how to get the Plate off the bottom of the Column to free it up. As for getting the new one down the Column's throat, If it doesn't free up much after getting the Cover off, I'm thinking of cutting the Wires off the old switch and using the old Harness as a Snake to pull the new one through. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 69 Spitfire(soon) 75 TR6 (new Sticker when Switch is fixed) From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Apr 10 17:40:40 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 23:40:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Headlight Dimmer Swith In-Reply-To: <5F59132020744F6491E6ACD713788631@D794W231> References: <5F59132020744F6491E6ACD713788631@D794W231> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F5051F7C@G5W2065.americas.hpqcorp.net> Wayne, the wiring from the OD, turn and dimmer switches all pass through the rear steering column bracket. There is a small trough in the lower half of that bracket that is lined with felt and the cables get pretty much clamped in there. The only proper way to do this job in my experience is to remove the tach and speedo, remove both upper and lower parts of the rear bracket, replace switch(es) as needed, re-route the wires back through the trough and re-assemble the rear bracket making sure no wires get pinched. This is not as bad as it sounds and it would normally take me about an hour from start to finish. Some people decide that is too much work and just tape the wires to the column and feed them under the dash. With just the turn signal and dimmer switch it is not too cramped in that tunnel but when you add the OD wires there is barely enough room for it all to fit. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne Lee Sent: Saturday, April 10, 2010 6:37 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 Headlight Dimmer Swith Hi Lister's, Other than standing on your Head writing down Plug Connections down in the Cockpit, Is there a trick to getting the Dimmer Switch's harness out of the Column? I can't seem to find how to get the Plate off the bottom of the Column to free it up. As for getting the new one down the Column's throat, If it doesn't free up much after getting the Cover off, I'm thinking of cutting the Wires off the old switch and using the old Harness as a Snake to pull the new one through. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 69 Spitfire(soon) 75 TR6 (new Sticker when Switch is fixed) From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Sat Apr 10 18:15:50 2010 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 18:15:50 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 1973 Triumph Stag on eBay Message-ID: <4BC114B6.1020207@triumphstagclub.org> Hi All, Happy Spring, Time to buy a reliable Stag! I posted my Triumph Stag on Ebay Motors, Item # 250613178556 or http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=250613178556&ssPageName=ADME:L:LCA:MOTORS:1123 Yep, it is mine again, price is significantly reduced to make room for other projects. Glenn! -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 11 23:00:37 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 00:00:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] clutch slave hose problem Message-ID: <86377937A22941A185C08518E1D8DF85@ranteer.local> hi. trying desperately to attach the hose to the new clutch slave cylinder but it won't grab. doesn't seem to go in far enough for the threads to catch. what's the trick? From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Apr 12 04:58:47 2010 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:58:47 +0000 Subject: [6pack] The Gathering In-Reply-To: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net> References: <4BC06767.2060308@bright.net> Message-ID: Hi guys, This event is about 10 miles south of the NC/VA line on I-77. It's a great event and the weather is looking fantastic for this weekend. Here's the link with more info: http://www.triumphclub.org/Gathering/index.htm see'ya there, Sloane :) 69-Six > Date: Sat, 10 Apr 2010 07:56:23 -0400 > From: tedtsimx at bright.net > To: tr8 at mercury.lcs.mit.edu; triumphs at autox.team.net; nass at yahoogroups.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] The Gathering > > Hello list members. If any of you are going to be at The Gathering car > show next Saturday, April 17, please stop by and say hello. We will be > set up with a parts display. Gear starters to Kevlar brakes, suspension > stuff and more. If you are attending and need any of our products > brought down, here is the chance to save freight. Please let me know as > soon as you can so we can get it packed.. Yes, we can bring big items > such as engines, transmissions, etc. Thanks. See you there. Ted > > -- _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the too busy. Combine all your e-mail accounts with Hotmail. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?tile=multiaccount&ocid=PID2832 6::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL:en-US:WM_HMP:042010_4 From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 12 09:00:00 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 08:00:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] clutch slave hose problem References: <86377937A22941A185C08518E1D8DF85@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <000a01cada50$d3746560$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Hi Oliver, Sounds like wrong or defective slave cylinder. Is hose original? If it still attaches to old slave the new slave/fitting is NG. I recently installed a rebuilt master, new SS hose and a new slave, went right together. There was no issue at all. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: "'6 Pack list'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, April 11, 2010 10:00 PM Subject: [6pack] clutch slave hose problem > hi. trying desperately to attach the hose to the new clutch slave cylinder > but it won't grab. doesn't seem to go in far enough for the threads to catch. > what's the trick? > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14730 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14730 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From aktifspeed at gmail.com Mon Apr 12 08:38:17 2010 From: aktifspeed at gmail.com (Erik Sulcs) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 10:38:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Water drainage tube in front fender... Message-ID: I want to thank Vance, Stan, Robert, and Bob for their great advice in helping me track down that leak in my car. I know this list seems to be dwindling in numbers, but it's a quick response to a query from some really knowledgeable guys that keep it alive for me at least... Thanks again guys! Erik S. From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Apr 12 09:30:46 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 11:30:46 EDT Subject: [6pack] Update on TriumphBob Message-ID: <63fa5.14e51331.38f496a6@aol.com> In a message dated 4/1/2010 12:41:14 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, TR250Driver at aol.com writes: Bob will have another bone marrow biopsy on Thursday, 4/1. We MUST get the results showing NO leukemia cells present in his marrow. His body is still fighting a very serious infection and he would not be able to have more chemo should the results be otherwise so, PLEASE pray for a marrow clear of any leukemia cells. Again.....thank you for all the Emails, cards and prayers. Bob IS getting better, but his biggest hurdle is just around the corner. Fondly, Ava Great News Guys, Our prayers were answered. From Ava: Amen and hallelujah! Bob's bone marrow came back clear!!! His white count is up to 1.11 today and has been climbing consistently for 10 straight days! Slight issue with jaundice due to one anti-biotic which has been exchanged for another so we'll be watching those counts for another day or two. We are so happy to report that Bob is now residing in a rehab facility in Parma. He moved in on Wednesday afternoon and loves the place. He will be having daily Physical and Occupational Therapy with a smattering of Speech Therapy. This is the best news in quite some time. Thanks for everyone's support. Darrell From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 12 21:55:23 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 12 Apr 2010 22:55:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] clutch slave cylinder and hose Message-ID: <3979EACD84BE4F21B36989B8C806F73C@ranteer.local> the final answer: as it turns out, the threads on the old hose, and likely the slave cylinder as well, were buggered. new hose, no problem. unfortunately that slave cylinder was bad. put it in, took it out, put it back in, no luck. tonight put in yet another one new one, everything good! sheesh! fortunately I have a local moss dealer, so it didn't involve returns with moss and overnight shipping and return shipping. From TR250Driver at aol.com Tue Apr 13 07:36:25 2010 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 09:36:25 EDT Subject: [6pack] [TR] Update on TriumphBob Message-ID: In a message dated 4/12/2010 2:26:34 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, Dave1massey at cs.com writes: Darrell, has his mailing address changed from what you sent out last week? Dave Yes it is now: Pleasant Lake Villa,7260 Ridge Rd.,Parma, OH 44129. He is in room 271. He would love to receive mail there. Darrell From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 13 11:50:05 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:50:05 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256933AC8A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Asking $33k for a TR250? Seems high by 2x to me, but what do I know? eBay item: 290422360833 Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast http://www.triumphowners.com/832 From apackard68 at att.net Tue Apr 13 12:15:22 2010 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 11:15:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Triumph beer for you Philly phellas! Message-ID: <750602.11974.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I'm a fan of Mackeson Milk Stout, which sadly, I discovered is no longer brewed in the US. I'll be sure to get a bottle my next trip to Trinidad where it is currently brewed in this hemisphere. In my search for other Milk/Sweet Stout beers, I came across the Triumph Brewing Co in Princeton, NJ. Their website is http://www.triumphbrewing.com/indexfl6.html with locations in Philly, New Hope and Princeton. Any of the Philadelphia crowd been here? Might be a good beer to have sent to Ohio for the next trials. A case of beer sent to the Bay Area would be a good idea, too! Thirsty in SF, Andy Packard CD6746L Brutes and Beauts Vintage Autocross Chairman May 8, 2010, Santa Clara, CA From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Apr 13 12:54:47 2010 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:54:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256933AC8A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <20100413185447.0LFSH.74847.root@hrndva-web15-z02> And no VIN, zero miles (?), and NO WARRANTY! Dave '74 Six w/A-OD ---- "Navarrette wrote: > Asking $33k for a TR250? > > Seems high by 2x to me, but what do I know? > > eBay item: 290422360833 > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > http://www.triumphowners.com/832 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion at maine.rr.com From rnorris1 at swbell.net Tue Apr 13 13:48:46 2010 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:48:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. Message-ID: <4BC4CA9E.2090402@swbell.net> Depends on whether one is buying or selling! The art of negotiation: if ya want a kitten, ask for a pony. Rick Norris ********************************************************************************************************* Asking $33k for a TR250? Seems high by 2x to me, but what do I know? eBay item: 290422360833 Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast http://www.triumphowners.com/832 From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Apr 13 13:58:39 2010 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 15:58:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. Message-ID: <20100413195839.NJP58.75785.root@hrndva-web15-z02> And no VIN, zero miles (?), and NO WARRANTY! Dave '74 Six w/A-OD ---- "Navarrette wrote: > Asking $33k for a TR250? > > Seems high by 2x to me, but what do I know? > > eBay item: 290422360833 > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > http://www.triumphowners.com/832 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion at maine.rr.com From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Tue Apr 13 14:21:47 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:21:47 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. In-Reply-To: <20100413185447.0LFSH.74847.root@hrndva-web15-z02> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256933AC8A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <20100413185447.0LFSH.74847.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Message-ID: <01d401cadb46$f2496390$d6dc2ab0$@edu> I hope they get that much, I have to sell my TR6 soon! Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 12:55 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Navarrette, Vance Subject: Re: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. And no VIN, zero miles (?), and NO WARRANTY! Dave '74 Six w/A-OD ---- "Navarrette wrote: > Asking $33k for a TR250? > > Seems high by 2x to me, but what do I know? > > eBay item: 290422360833 > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > http://www.triumphowners.com/832 > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/forzion at maine.rr.com _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue Apr 13 14:31:00 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 13:31:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR 250 Value Message-ID: <425243.73615.qm@web65606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> TR Bitz recently advertised a frame off TR5 for 37,500 pounds ($57,000)! Appreciate that a fully restored/upgraded TR5 in England is the very top of 6 cyl TR pricing. Wonder what it actually sold for. Bruce Simms __________________________________________________________________ Connect with friends from any web browser - no download required. Try the new Yahoo! Canada Messenger for the Web BETA at http://ca.messenger.yahoo.com/webmessengerpromo.php From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com Tue Apr 13 15:40:08 2010 From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 14:40:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <357053.49543.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com> and that is NOT Valencia Blue! Looks more like French Blue to me.... Ryan '71 Imperial Blue (Sapphire) --- On Tue, 4/13/10, 6pack-request at autox.team.net <6pack- > > Message: 3 > Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:50:05 -0700 > From: "Navarrette, Vance" > Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. > To: "6pack at autox.team.net" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Asking $33k for a TR250? > > Seems high by 2x to me, but what do I > know? > > eBay item: 290422360833 > > Vance From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Apr 13 19:38:31 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 18:38:31 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. References: <20100413185447.0LFSH.74847.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Message-ID: <002201cadb73$30e8b700$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Another ad for the car claiming $60K restoration cost. http://www.nationalvehicles.com/viewlisting.php?listing_id=92105 Agreed, color or the that car is NOT Valencia Blue. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dave" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Navarrette, Vance" Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 11:54 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. > And no VIN, zero miles (?), and NO WARRANTY! > > Dave > '74 Six w/A-OD > > > ---- "Navarrette wrote: > > Asking $33k for a TR250? > > > > Seems high by 2x to me, but what do I know? > > > > eBay item: 290422360833 > > > > Vance > > > > Vance Navarrette > > Cogito Ergo Zoom > > I think, therefore I go fast > > http://www.triumphowners.com/832 > > _______________________________________________ > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14730 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From kandrews at charter.net Tue Apr 13 17:15:20 2010 From: kandrews at charter.net (Kevin Andrews) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 19:15:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. References: <357053.49543.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Petty Blue in fact. Kevin ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ryan" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 13, 2010 5:40 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. > and that is NOT Valencia Blue! Looks more like French Blue to me.... > > Ryan > '71 > Imperial Blue (Sapphire) > > --- On Tue, 4/13/10, 6pack-request at autox.team.net > <6pack- >> >> Message: 3 >> Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 10:50:05 -0700 >> From: > "Navarrette, Vance" >> Subject: [6pack] Yikes! > TR250 looks like too much to me.. >> To: "6pack at autox.team.net" >> > <6pack at autox.team.net> > >> Asking $33k for a TR250? >> >> Seems high > by 2x to me, but what do I >> know? >> >> eBay item: 290422360833 >> >> > Vance > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kandrews at charter.net > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 9.0.801 / Virus Database: 271.1.1/2808 - Release Date: 04/13/10 02:32:00 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Apr 13 18:36:52 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 00:36:52 GMT Subject: [6pack] Colors Message-ID: The color chart below shows it to be French Blue. Attractive color, esp. when the top, seats and carpet match! Dick http://users.belgacom.net/triumph/Triumph%2520TR6%2520colors.htm From janah at att.net Tue Apr 13 19:49:08 2010 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Tue, 13 Apr 2010 21:49:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. Message-ID: Yeah I am watching this one. I have been noticing prices climbing on both the 6 and 250 lately. We bought a house in the late 90s. When we went for a re-fi just a few years later and had an appraisal, I was shocked. I said to my wife "We can't afford this house." I am wondering if we are seeing the triumphs finally getting some respect. John Cyg. PS I hope this list does not die out. I like it. From jattr6 at hotmail.com Wed Apr 14 16:57:35 2010 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Wed, 14 Apr 2010 22:57:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Ignition Light Message-ID: My car ('76 TR6) is 3,000 miles away from me until I have it shipped out to Portland Oregon... but the last time I visit (the car) the ignition light came on while driving. I played around with the battery connections, alternator connections. the light would be off the next time I started it, but after driving (lights on in night-time conditions) the light would come on and stay on. I consulted Dan Masters book, but do not recall finding a clear answer (but time was limited for research). Is this most likely my alternator? Even though the volts appeared to stay at 13.5 (or there abouts). Or something else? Thanks! James 1976 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au Wed Apr 14 17:23:06 2010 From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc ) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:23:06 +1000 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <1F0A8328D1D049BA9E1E69D998D79120@johnqg3ed0cywf> Vance, $33,000 without a Surrey - tell him he's dreaming! The car is NOT French Blue, I'd guess at Tahiti but it could be something non-triumph. My Dolomite is French Blue - see what it should look like at http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=393 John Mc "Fast is First" 71 TR6 PI 76 Dolomite Sprint 76 Dolomite 1850 From john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au Wed Apr 14 17:28:33 2010 From: john.mcmaster at netspeed.com.au (John Mc ) Date: Thu, 15 Apr 2010 09:28:33 +1000 Subject: [6pack] Yikes! TR250 looks like too much to me.. Message-ID: Not sure if the URL to my French Blue Dolomite worked ... Try this one instead http://www.triumphowners.com/393 John Mc "Fast is First" 71 TR6 PI 76 Dolomite Sprint 76 Dolomite 1850 From jattr6 at hotmail.com Fri Apr 16 11:24:32 2010 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 17:24:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Alternator Suggestions...best one for a 1976 TR6? Message-ID: Any suggestions for the best alternator for a 1976 TR6? One that doesn't require me to get a early model bracket or modify the electrical connections (unless it is SUPER easy to undo). Should I get a Roadster Factory Alt or a AC Delco from NAPA (or similar auto store)? thanks! james _________________________________________________________________ The New Busy is not the old busy. Search, chat and e-mail from your inbox. http://www.windowslive.com/campaign/thenewbusy?ocid=PID28326::T:WLMTAGL:ON:WL :en-US:WM_HMP:042010_3 From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Apr 16 14:10:57 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 16:10:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Door Pulls In-Reply-To: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> References: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> Message-ID: <2978EB5678294213B7937C0A9C8FBEA2@BobPC> Hi all............... I posted this question about a month ago and was quickly informed that the door pulls from a TR4 were a perfect fit. So I figured I should share with you how they look on the leather panels I made this winter. As always thanks for help. A door pull picture is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanels/DoorPull6.jpg I did a custom leather door cap and went with pleated leather door panels. My new leather interior is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanel.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 10:31 PM To: ; "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [TR] Door Pulls > I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for the late > TR6 > and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there for > MGB, > Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the > existing > screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this or > have a > part# that would fit? > > _______________________________________________ > Triumphs at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Suggested annual donation $11.47 > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Apr 16 23:58:43 2010 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Fri, 16 Apr 2010 23:58:43 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Door Pulls In-Reply-To: <2978EB5678294213B7937C0A9C8FBEA2@BobPC> References: <764A15CD07B24C86B0BE9F39B1CA9494@BobPC> <2978EB5678294213B7937C0A9C8FBEA2@BobPC> Message-ID: Bob, You have become the "Nelson Reidel" of the TR6. It just continues to amaze me at the spot on tech info you document so professionally. Thank you for taking the time to share, especially for those of us that need pictures AND direction. You'll love the control the handles will give you in parking lot situations. They look great. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Apr 16, 2010, at 2:10 PM, Bob Danielson wrote: > Hi all............... I posted this question about a month ago and > was quickly informed that the door pulls from a TR4 were a perfect > fit. So I figured I should share with you how they look on the > leather panels I made this winter. As always thanks for help. > > A door pull picture is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanels/DoorPull6.jpg > I did a custom leather door cap and went with pleated leather door > panels. > > My new leather interior is here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/InteriorPanel.htm > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > > -------------------------------------------------- > From: "Bob Danielson" <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Sent: Tuesday, March 16, 2010 10:31 PM > To: ; "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: [TR] Door Pulls > >> I'm thinking of doing away with the stock interior door pull for >> the late TR6 >> and try to find a retro-like pull handle. There's a bunch out there >> for MGB, >> Sprite, TR4 etc but I'm hoping for one that would match up with the >> existing >> screw holes that are 4-7/8" center to center. Has anybody done this >> or have a >> part# that would fit? >> >> _______________________________________________ >> Triumphs at autox.team.net >> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html >> Suggested annual donation $11.47 >> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive >> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums >> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/levilevi at comcast.net From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Sat Apr 17 14:15:18 2010 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 22:15:18 +0200 Subject: [6pack] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Message-ID: Listers, I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a picture of proof of the famous John Macartney STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. The pic's of the Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of the peg for me? Regards, Marc From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Apr 17 17:10:32 2010 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:10:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CCAC9A5085727F-36C-13DE@webmail-d080.sysops.aol.com> I .have one in it's original packaging...never used and not sure where it is at -----Original Message----- From: Marc Nederkoorn To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Apr 17, 2010 3:15 pm Subject: [6pack] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Listers, I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a picture of proof of the famous John Macartney STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. The pic's of the Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of the peg for me? Regards, Marc _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/n197tr4 at cs.com From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Sat Apr 17 18:19:27 2010 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 20:19:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] POR question - re-transmit Message-ID: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133520@CMS01.winhosting.local> I know from POR's documentation that POR-15 is succeptible to discoloration from excessive UV exposure. The question is how much? Over the past year or so, I have been slowly working my way through the engine bay (painted black these many years) and scrubbing down surfaces and fittings. I've been applying POR with very pleasing results. However, I have not been top-coating. The part I did last year still seems perfectly fine. The car is indoors most times. Is it a very gradual greying, or is the engine bay protected enough that I can leave it bare POR coated as it is? I quite like the present surface and semi-mid gloss that comes with the material. Just don't feel like having it suddenly go all grey on me. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6. From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sat Apr 17 19:43:35 2010 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:43:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Odometers Message-ID: My The car's odometer and trip odometer don't turn. (Yes, even when the car's moving.) The trip-reset stem moves the trip odometer (not much, though, since it's zeroed). The speedo works fine, so the cable is connected to the xmission. (You were gonna suggest that, weren't you?) So, before I go all Neanderthal-watchmaker on it, does anyone have any experience with this problem? Doug Morris, NC '74 TR6 CF-18xx-OU (pimento, if that helps) From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sat Apr 17 20:17:45 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 19:17:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 Alternator question Message-ID: <792311.78884.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> The optiional 55 amp Bosch alternator for the Ford Fiesta was just about a drop-in for my 73. I bought mine from "Alternator Express" in Spartenburg SC, do a search to see if they're still around. More output and a Bosch part. Bruce Simms __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 17 20:18:08 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 17 Apr 2010 21:18:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] running/starting trouble Message-ID: <5DB3B2F0DE164C38B829919628023116@ranteer.local> 72 tr6 triple zs mild cam etc but has points and condensor normal dizzy is out being recurved (that one has electronic ignition) this is a used one and I'm not sure of the history had problem the other night running. turned out to be a broken rotor. now its hard starting, worse than it used to be, although that seems to be deterioriating. runs ok, then not so much, runs ok, then not so much. periods of not running so well are 5 to 10 minutes apart. sometimes it cuts out then restarts almost immediately. I'm thinking first of all look for pieces of the rotor in the dizzy. it literally broke into pieces and I don't have them all. what else? maybe replace points? how about condensor? From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Sun Apr 18 06:01:32 2010 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 14:01:32 +0200 Subject: [6pack] [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg In-Reply-To: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> References: <242408.15452.qm@web28312.mail.ukl.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <71A8EDD5A2564110B0B575FFCF34DE8B@corp.capgemini.com> John, n1974TR4, listers, After some serious digging in the Internet I found an application. Albeit Wolseley, it did prove the point ;-) http://se.lmer.se/cars/wolseley/wolseleypictures/lowtech2.jpg Thanks for your replies and help, Marc ----- Original Message ----- From: John Macartney To: Marc Nederkoorn ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 10:44 AM Subject: Re: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Marc Somewhere in my computer, I have the backing card for said essential tool - but can't find it. I do have a revised version of it when Stan's Parts and Accessories was acquired for a very inconsequential sum by the Sharp Intake of Breath group of companies, who sold it alongside their wax polish saving kit and greasy finger nail cleaning tool. But all is not lost. You can use any clothes peg with a piece of string threaded through the central spring to hang from the choke knob and, unlike the cars themselves, you can operate the peg left and right handed. Good luck on your cold cold-start days Jonmac From: Marc Nederkoorn To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 17 April, 2010 21:15:18 Subject: [TR] STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg Listers, I have a statement to prove yet can not find again a picture of proof of the famous John Macartney STANPART 00001 Service Tool aka cloth peg that keeps the choke out while warming up. The pic's of the Trans-America drive have gone walkabout; anyone have a picture of the peg for me? Regards, Marc _______________________________________________ Triumphs at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Suggested annual donation $11.47 Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/macartney.john at yahoo.co.uk From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sun Apr 18 07:51:30 2010 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 08:51:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Odometers Message-ID: <410-220104018135130529@earthlink.net> Doug, I experienced the same thing on my '73 TR6. When I opened up the speedometer, I noticed the pawl that pushes the number wheels had no tension to keep it engaged. The spring steel clip that holds the pawl (see arrow on photo) had gone missing. A replacement clip from the junk parts bin fixed it. Funny thing is, I would have thought the old clip should have remained in the speedometer case but I never did find it. Greg Gelhar Osseo, MN > Subject: [6pack] Odometers > > My The car's odometer and trip odometer don't turn. (Yes, even when the car's > moving.) > The trip-reset stem moves the trip odometer (not much, though, since it's > zeroed). > The speedo works fine, so the cable is connected to the xmission. (You were > gonna suggest that, weren't you?) > > So, before I go all Neanderthal-watchmaker on it, > does anyone have any experience with this problem? > > Doug Morris, NC > '74 TR6 CF-18xx-OU [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of ODO.JPG] From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 18 11:15:46 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 13:15:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Odometers In-Reply-To: <410-220104018135130529@earthlink.net> References: <410-220104018135130529@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <79851F5F807D4574A873564D460E0368@BobPC> There's a pdf file link at the bottom of this page http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm that goes into great detail on how to rebuild your speedometer. Maybe it will help. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Greg Gelhar" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 9:51 AM To: "Douglas Morris" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Odometers > Doug, > > I experienced the same thing on my '73 TR6. When I opened up the > speedometer, I noticed the pawl that pushes the number wheels had no > tension to keep it engaged. The spring steel clip that holds the pawl (see > arrow on photo) had gone missing. A replacement clip from the junk parts > bin fixed it. Funny thing is, I would have thought the old clip should > have > remained in the speedometer case but I never did find it. > > Greg Gelhar > Osseo, MN > >> Subject: [6pack] Odometers >> >> My The car's odometer and trip odometer don't turn. (Yes, even when the > car's >> moving.) >> The trip-reset stem moves the trip odometer (not much, though, since it's >> zeroed). >> The speedo works fine, so the cable is connected to the xmission. (You > were >> gonna suggest that, weren't you?) >> >> So, before I go all Neanderthal-watchmaker on it, >> does anyone have any experience with this problem? >> >> Doug Morris, NC >> '74 TR6 CF-18xx-OU > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of > ODO.JPG] > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Apr 18 12:50:16 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 11:50:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley Message-ID: <812012.3944.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I had a prototype AC installed on my 6 but the setup uses a single belt with idlers and eats belts. I guess I'll be forced to resort to trying to find the original pulley setup that goes on the end of the damper. Anyone got an extra or know where I can find one? TIA. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6 wit AC-sort of (I'm in Florida guys, it's getting hot already) From jimhurle at gmail.com Sun Apr 18 15:10:56 2010 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 17:10:56 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Leather Message-ID: This is really a question for Bob Daniels, but I am sure others on the list would like to know where did you buy your leather and how much leather did you get? Roughly what did it cost? Jim Hurley 75 TR6 - starting to move again... From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Sun Apr 18 16:15:02 2010 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 16:15:02 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Leather In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00cd01cadf44$98f9ac30$caed0490$@edu> Depends on how hard she wants to be whipped. I find about 4 feet, braided, does an excellent job... KMc -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Hurley Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 3:11 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Leather This is really a question for Bob Daniels, but I am sure others on the list would like to know where did you buy your leather and how much leather did you get? Roughly what did it cost? Jim Hurley 75 TR6 - starting to move again... _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From ambritts at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 18 16:24:52 2010 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:24:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley In-Reply-To: <812012.3944.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <812012.3944.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <722837C3263B4ADDBEFD16DC6B37C224@AlexPC> Mike, I just heard that British air in Tampa just resolved this one belt problem on an MG. You might want to give them a call. I believe it was worked out at Glenn's MG in St Pete. I believe it was Glenn's idea or modification that solved the MG issue eating belts. Might work for the 6. Alex Manzo 72 TR6 59TR3A ----- Original Message ----- From: "michael lunsford" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 2:50 PM Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley >I had a prototype AC installed on my 6 but the setup uses a single belt > with idlers and eats belts. I guess I'll be forced to resort to trying to > find the original pulley setup that goes on the end of the damper. Anyone > got > an extra or know where I can find one? TIA. > > Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6 wit AC-sort of (I'm in Florida guys, it's getting > hot > already) > _______________________________________________ From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 18 16:57:37 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 18 Apr 2010 18:57:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Leather In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2BADA103B4844EC59D4693D9F5921DB2@BobPC> Hi Jim, You can get leather from multiple online sources or even local upholstery shops. Google "automotive upholstery supplies" and you'll be overwhelmed with options. I got mine on eBay and bought 2 full hides for a little less then $200. I ended up needing about 1 -1/4 hides but hides run in all different sizes. The "problem" with a hide is that it may measure 50 sq ft but due to neck holes, legs, imperfections, the actual yield is much less. When I buy vinyl by the yard to make: door panels, wheel arch panels, wheel arch covers, trunk panel, "B" pillars and kidney pads, I use about 3-1/2 yards. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Jim Hurley" Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 5:10 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Leather > This is really a question for Bob Daniels, but I am sure others on the > list > would like to know where did you buy your leather and how much leather did > you get? Roughly what did it cost? > > Jim Hurley > 75 TR6 - starting to move again... > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 18 20:00:27 2010 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 02:00:27 GMT Subject: [6pack] Odometers Message-ID: Doug---This happened to my speedo when the main numbers tried to turn over to zero. The speed registered, but the mileage didn't. I found out accidently that driving backwards for several yards freed up whatever was stuck in the pack of numbers. It happened again about 400 miles later and then by tripping the meter stem back to 000 it worked again for a while. Later I had the unit rebuilt (West Valley Instruments) and all is well again. Dick From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sun Apr 18 23:28:38 2010 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 01:28:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Odometers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <31117A60-D3C1-4076-8BEB-041B1F8CE56A@nc.rr.com> Sooo, what you're saying is that your idea doesn't work. ;-) Actually, that is worth knowin'. Saves me from false hope if I were to notice that symptom. Yep, I know lots'a stuff that doesn't work in a variety of subjects. Might write a book about that, someday. Next rainy day, I'll yank the speedo, spray the begeezus out'a it with WD-40 and cram it back in. (That's an old amateur-gunsmith's trick that never, ever works, either.) Actually, I just got the charging system* working again, so I'm gonna drive 'er for a while. Don't really need to know how far I've gone, anyway. Hey, come to think of it; if I get a GPS, I may never have to fix the odometer. And, yes, that's an excuse. Y'see, I have big hands; an' TR-6 instrument panel backsides ain't designed to be fiddled-with by guys with big hands. (I suspect that the Brits used child labor for some of their assembling. You know, teeny little orphans who, in the old days, would have been used as chimney sweeps.) * The charging-system problem drove me nuts. Batty load-test: good. Metered batty: no charging. Dash v-meter: no charging. Warning light: off. Meter at alternator output: ~19v. Meter at alt field input: ~12v. Whaa?! [consults wiring diagram] Okay, time to try the unlikely. Continuity-check thick brown wire from alt output to the junction block at batty pos (where four brown wires connect to the thick red wire from batty pos to starter): uhm, open. Crap! I'm gonna hafta re-wire through the firewall to ... Oh, wait. Howscome the thick brown wire at the junction block (hidden by hoses & wires) ain't connected to nuthin'? Not even to its spade connector which is still connected to it's post in the bottom side of the junction block? D'oh! Clean, recrimp, shrink-tube, grease, & reconnect => juice! I'll, uh, go back and solder all those connectors someday. Well, I'll put that on the to-do list, anyway. Doug Morris, NC On Apr 18, 2010, at 10:00 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Doug---This happened to my speedo when the main numbers tried to turn over to zero. The speed registered, but the mileage didn't. I found out accidently that driving backwards for several yards freed up whatever was stuck in the pack of numbers. It happened again about 400 miles later and then by tripping the meter stem back to 000 it worked again for a while. Later I had the unit rebuilt (West Valley Instruments) and all is well again. > > Dick From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 19 11:30:09 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:30:09 -0700 Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley In-Reply-To: <812012.3944.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <812012.3944.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569408BEB@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Got any pictures to share? I am HAPPY to waste your time by suggesting ideas that make no sense. But I need pictures to lend an air of credibility to my inane babblings. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Sunday, April 18, 2010 11:50 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley I had a prototype AC installed on my 6 but the setup uses a single belt with idlers and eats belts. I guess I'll be forced to resort to trying to find the original pulley setup that goes on the end of the damper. Anyone got an extra or know where I can find one? TIA. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6 with AC-sort of (I'm in Florida guys, it's getting hot already) From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 19 11:37:31 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:37:31 -0700 Subject: [6pack] running/starting trouble In-Reply-To: <5DB3B2F0DE164C38B829919628023116@ranteer.local> References: <5DB3B2F0DE164C38B829919628023116@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569408C06@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Oliver: I think you pretty much said it all. While you are in there, check the dizzy shaft for play and make sure that the advance is not sticking and both springs are there. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver normal dizzy is out being recurved (that one has electronic ignition) this is a used one and I'm not sure of the history had problem the other night running. turned out to be a broken rotor. now its hard starting, worse than it used to be, although that seems to be deterioriating. runs ok, then not so much, runs ok, then not so much. periods of not running so well are 5 to 10 minutes apart. sometimes it cuts out then restarts almost immediately. I'm thinking first of all look for pieces of the rotor in the dizzy. it literally broke into pieces and I don't have them all. what else? maybe replace points? how about condensor? From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 19 11:48:48 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 10:48:48 -0700 Subject: [6pack] POR question - re-transmit In-Reply-To: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133520@CMS01.winhosting.local> References: <7427939D47D3D346ADBB3A844FA68F438AE3133520@CMS01.winhosting.local> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569408C2B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mark: Did my frame 3 years ago, without any top coat. Still nice and glossy. My car is also parked inside most of the time, but so far I am very happy with POR. The frame will not get any DIRECT UV, although I suspect it gets plenty of indirect UV when I am out an about. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Saturday, April 17, 2010 5:19 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] POR question - re-transmit I know from POR's documentation that POR-15 is succeptible to discoloration from excessive UV exposure. The question is how much? Mark Hooper 1972 TR6. From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Apr 19 12:15:15 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 11:15:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley-Overdrive controller Message-ID: <395426.92961.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I thought I would share my response to Vance's offer to help with the list in case someone else has some ideas. Vance, Sorry I don't have any photos and since I'm somewhat photographically challenged when it comes to donloading to a computer I doubt I'll take any. However, in a nut shell here is the problem: An original V belt does not take kindly to regularly flexing to the outside as well as the inside of the V. The setup my dreamer AC guy came up with involves one longer belt and two smooth, not V, idler pulleys. One of these is necessary to keep the V belt from rubbing against the frame where the radiator brace on the passenger side bolts to the cross brace. The second idler is between the water pump and the alternator and is necessary in order to provide enough belt surface for the V belt to drive the water pump on that side. Both pulleys are smooth and thus put pressure on the back of the belt (outside) which is opposite of the V or working side of the belt. This results in the belt flexing both ways. The V belt is basically too thick to flex both ways and thus the belt rapidly delaminates from the V side. I have considered using a V type idler but it looks like I would need at least 3 idlers and I'm not even sure that would be enough, that I would have enough room under the hood or that it wouldn't just be easier to use the stock AC setup. It's amazing what problems we create for ourselves. Oh well, back to the car to see why fuses are blowing after I dropped the inside AC condenser to install the overdrive controller. That works fine by the way. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6 With AC-sort of From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com Mon Apr 19 13:28:07 2010 From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger) Date: Mon, 19 Apr 2010 14:28:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley-Overdrive controller In-Reply-To: <395426.92961.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <395426.92961.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Here are some pics of an A/C installation on a TR6, including a picture of the pulley: http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/technical/tr6ac.htm ----- Original Message ----- From: "michael lunsford" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, April 19, 2010 1:15 PM Subject: [6pack] AC Pulley-Overdrive controller >I thought I would share my response to Vance's offer to help with the list >in > case someone else has some ideas. > Vance, > > Sorry I don't have any photos and since I'm somewhat photographically > challenged when it comes to donloading to a computer I doubt I'll take > any. From gaf3 at charter.net Tue Apr 20 16:18:30 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 18:18:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for VTR?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame? I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best method has been. I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair it. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 3 6's Tr250 and Spits Also What's the host hotel for VTR 2010?? Thanks > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91 > ************************************ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 20 17:42:34 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 20 Apr 2010 16:42:34 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for VTR?? In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> References: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569409714@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Glenn: Aaron Cropley has a nice write up of how to do it on his web page: www.triumphowners.com/108 Look for the article on repairing the differential mount. Vance Vance Navarrette http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Franco Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame? I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best method has been. I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair it. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 3 6's Tr250 and Spits From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Apr 20 18:16:10 2010 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 00:16:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for VTR?? In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> References: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> Message-ID: <0794DD1FF011B0439CDB3FAED80789F50AA757@G6W1620.americas.hpqcorp.net> Now that Vance has answered the hard question I can report that the VTR event hotel is www.jekyllclub.com www.vtr2010.org see you there. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Franco Sent: Tuesday, April 20, 2010 6:19 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; Friends of Triumph Subject: [6pack] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for VTR?? Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still on the frame? I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best method has been. I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to repair it. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 3 6's Tr250 and Spits Also What's the host hotel for VTR 2010?? Thanks > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91 > ************************************ From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Apr 21 05:58:18 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 07:58:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for VTR?? In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> References: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> Message-ID: <201004210758.18426.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 20 April 2010 06:18:30 pm Glenn Franco wrote: > Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired > cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still on > the frame? > I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the best > method has been. > I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to > repair it. > Thanks in advance > Glenn Franco > 3 6's Tr250 and Spits > Also > What's the host hotel for VTR 2010?? > Thanks > > Glenn, Bob D. also has a writeup on the fix. His web site is: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ Bob From loddtr at aol.com Wed Apr 21 16:49:25 2010 From: loddtr at aol.com (loddtr at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 18:49:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] mike loncheval Message-ID: <8CCAFBC06C589D5-21A4-4325@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> http://tothkovacs.hu/home.php From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Apr 21 20:10:17 2010 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 21 Apr 2010 19:10:17 -0700 Subject: [6pack] mike loncheval References: <8CCAFBC06C589D5-21A4-4325@webmail-m034.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001101cae1c0$f43ded30$6501a8c0@gpcorporate.com> Uh oh! ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <19to1tr6 at comcast.net>; <19to1tr6 at mediaone.net>; <1blakerobert at msn.com>; <356drb at indy.net>; <58tr3a at videotron.ca>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; Sent: Wednesday, April 21, 2010 3:49 PM Subject: [6pack] mike loncheval > http://tothkovacs.hu/home.php > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.14830 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.14830 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From dusty45 at juno.com Thu Apr 22 12:44:15 2010 From: dusty45 at juno.com (dusty45 at juno.com) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 18:44:15 GMT Subject: [6pack] I guess I gotta sell her.... Value? Message-ID: <20100422.114415.12316.0@webmail12.vgs.untd.com> Howdy all. Long time lurker, very rare poster. I have 6pack digests going back to June of 2004!!! Anyway, my long-term girlfriend is finally gonna go. She's a 1972 TR6 (CC77xxx?) I'm the second owner of over 20 years. She painted it a funky turquoisey-blue, and it wasn't a good paint job. I just left it. Was a daily driver for many years, but has been sitting for the past year. I used to go the the So Cal Triumph Owners Club meetings, but not many social events. Anyway, she's a "California car" always garaged at night. All original - and looks it. But the body is straight and no rust. I put a new battery in her last Saturday and she started up on the 3rd try! So, just trying to get a feel for the market, as I clean her up a little more. I do have new "stuff" for her: carpet set, carb heat shield, all door rubber, top, parts, etc. Has Anza exhaust but no other performance mods. She does have a leaky valve (?) and will oil foul a plug, but even then, she would pass smog here (no longer req'd). If anybody local wants to take a look for the rest of the list, no problem. I'll also get pictures. I'm in Cypress, Calif (near Long Beach) If this is out of line, I apologize in advance. George Young dusty45 at juno.com ____________________________________________________________ $12/Month Auto Insurance Drivers in your area are paying as low as $12/m. Free Quote instantly. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3141/4bd09970cec62161cb7st01vuc From jsvannorman at gmail.com Thu Apr 22 13:16:57 2010 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 15:16:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Speedo cable lubricant Message-ID: I've got a bouncy speedo and have been reading through the archives. One of the steps I know I need to take is lubricanting my speedo cable. What is the list's suggestions when it comes to lubricant (of the automotive variety, not personal)? Lithium grease? Graphite? John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 From forzion at maine.rr.com Thu Apr 22 13:45:16 2010 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Thu, 22 Apr 2010 15:45:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Speedo cable lubricant In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20100422194516.I1JLR.516982.root@hrndva-web03-z01> John; I've used the Tusk brand cable lube kit, with good results... See http://tinyurl.com/2way43c Dave '74 Six Sunny Maine ---- John VanNorman wrote: > I've got a bouncy speedo and have been reading through the archives. > One of the steps I know I need to take is lubricating my speedo > cable. What is the list's suggestions when it comes to lubricant (of > the automotive variety, not personal)? Lithium grease? Graphite? > > John V. > 1974 1/2 TR6 From tr6 at atlasok.com Fri Apr 23 17:36:56 2010 From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips) Date: Fri, 23 Apr 2010 18:36:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Bouncy speedo Message-ID: <00c301cae33d$dca7dfe0$95f79fa0$@com> My bouncy speedo had a gear with missing teeth. Gear replaced, no bouncy. John Phillips Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK Green Country Triumphs http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 25 12:10:38 2010 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 14:10:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Rear Fenders Message-ID: <201004251410.38750.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hi, I am at the point of trying to fit my fiberglass fenders to my 72 and they just dont fit.. And due to their rigid nature there is just no way I can make them fit. These were supplied by a guy in California for a modest price but more for shipping but I cant use them. So does anyone here on the list have a SET for a 72 in decent shape for sale? They dont have to be perfect but I would hope for the best. I had many chances over the past 1.5 years to get a set on Ebay but I figured I could get the fiber glass ones to fit. If anyone knows of a set or someone who has a set please contact me at this email or if you need a phone # please ask and I will forward that #. I am in the 13502 zip code but I will pay for shipping. Thanks ALOT. Bob From ken at azkiwis.com Sun Apr 25 13:06:50 2010 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 12:06:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Blanking plate Message-ID: Quick Q for the group --- Which of the suppliers has the blanking plate cover for where the old fuel pump attached to the block? - Since I bought mine 13-14 years ago, it's had an elec. pump and it's time to remove the old mechanical so the tach cable isn't warped anymore.. Thanks Ken 73 TR6 > Sonoran Desert Weather http://weather.azkiwis.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 25 14:41:18 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 16:41:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Blanking plate In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I got mine from Frank Fischer (FGFO1 at aol.com) when the one from Moss didn't fit. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Ken Davis" Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 3:06 PM To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Blanking plate > Quick Q for the group --- Which of the suppliers has the blanking plate > cover > for where the old fuel pump attached to the block? > > - Since I bought mine 13-14 years ago, it's had an elec. pump and it's > time to > remove the old mechanical so the tach cable isn't warped anymore.. > > Thanks > > Ken > 73 TR6 > > >> > Sonoran Desert Weather > http://weather.azkiwis.net > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From robert.breazeale at gmail.com Sun Apr 25 21:41:07 2010 From: robert.breazeale at gmail.com (Robert Breazeale) Date: Sun, 25 Apr 2010 20:41:07 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Trailing arm advice Message-ID: Finally getting around to rebuilding the rear suspension and replacing the u-joints on the half shafts on my '68 TR250. After removing the hubs I noticed that the passenger side trailing arm is "chewed" up on the inner side. Enough so that the emergency brake clamp down just barely has enough aluminum material to mount to. This car is just a driver so I'm not worried about looks or completeness. Is this something to be concerned about, should I look for a replacement? Or is it good to use it as it is? Many thanks. Kind regards, - Bob - From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Apr 26 06:19:13 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:19:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Trailing arm advice In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <856EC13ED47741E3A5DCAC90AA0F4C37@BobPC> This is where a picture is worth a thousand words. What I think you're saying is that you've removed the hub and axles and the big hole in the TA the the hub sits in is chewed up. If so, I'd be concerned as to what was hitting to cause the damage. One thing that comes to mind is that one or more of the studs holding the hub to the TA is stripped allowing the hub to get enough crooked to hit the inside of the TA. I'd start by checking all six of the TA studs. I'd also get Rick Patton's TA Repair kit (http://www.pattonmachine.com/TA-Repair-Jig.htm) and fix all 12 studs. I did this a couple of years ago (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TAJig.htm) and it's very easy to use and does a great job. The other part to check would be where the axles attach to the diff and also the axles themselves. As to the safety of the TA itself it's tough to say without actually seeing the damage. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Robert Breazeale" Sent: Sunday, April 25, 2010 11:41 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Trailing arm advice > Finally getting around to rebuilding the rear suspension and replacing the > u-joints on the half shafts on my '68 TR250. After removing the hubs I > noticed that the passenger side trailing arm is "chewed" up on the inner > side. Enough so that the emergency brake clamp down just barely has > enough > aluminum material to mount to. This car is just a driver so I'm not > worried about looks or completeness. Is this something to be concerned > about, should I look for a replacement? Or is it good to use it as it > is? > > Many thanks. > > Kind regards, - Bob - > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 07:45:46 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 08:45:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Message-ID: <6BABAD287D4743E693024C88F89492B6@ranteer.local> when I try to start it (72 tr6 triple carb etc) I get a high pitched grinding sound. it started last weekend and a couple of times I was able to manually turn the engine and then I could start it. that doesn't work any more. should I try swapping out the starter or is it the ring gear? thanks! From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 26 08:00:39 2010 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 07:00:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Message-ID: <435193.95255.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I'd pull the gearbox first before doing the easy stuff ;-) Pull the starter and lay it on the ground and put power to it. Your problem sounds electrical Todd Sent from my iPhone On Apr 26, 2010, at 9:45 AM, "oliver" wrote: when I try to start it (72 tr6 triple carb etc) I get a high pitched grinding sound. it started last weekend and a couple of times I was able to manually turn the engine and then I could start it. that doesn't work any more. should I try swapping out the starter or is it the ring gear? thanks! _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/red_tr250 at yahoo.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 08:01:38 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:01:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] ring gear vs starter motor text clarified Message-ID: when I try to start it (72 tr6 triple carb etc) I get a high pitched grinding sound. the problem began last weekend and a couple of times I was able to manually turn the engine and then I could start it. that doesn't work any more. should I try swapping out the starter or is it the ring gear? thanks! From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 26 08:12:26 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 07:12:26 -0700 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear In-Reply-To: <6BABAD287D4743E693024C88F89492B6@ranteer.local> References: <6BABAD287D4743E693024C88F89492B6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569508864@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Oliver: How new is the starter? My inclination would be to do the starter first, just because it is so much easier than the ring gear. Besides, the starters seem to be the things that go first - couldn't tell you the last time someone had a problem caused by a bad ring gear. Not saying that a ring gear can fail, but since it has no moving parts it seems to be the more reliable of the two. Vance Vance Navarrette Knowledge is power. Power corrupts. Study hard, be evil. http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 6:46 AM To: '6 Pack list' Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear when I try to start it (72 tr6 triple carb etc) I get a high pitched grinding sound. it started last weekend and a couple of times I was able to manually turn the engine and then I could start it. that doesn't work any more. should I try swapping out the starter or is it the ring gear? thanks! From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 09:05:41 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:05:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569508864@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <6BABAD287D4743E693024C88F89492B6@ranteer.local> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569508864@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <7B03FF66B5D0477B95F28534A74ED0A6@ranteer.local> it's a high torque starter; not more than 2 years old. but worth checking. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Navarrette, Vance" Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 9:12 AM To: "oliver" ; "'6 Pack list'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: RE: [6pack] starter or ring gear > Oliver: > > How new is the starter? My inclination would be to do the starter first, > just because it is so much easier than the ring gear. Besides, the > starters seem to be the things that go first - couldn't tell you the last > time someone had a problem caused by a bad ring gear. > Not saying that a ring gear can fail, but since it has no moving parts it > seems to be the more reliable of the two. > > Vance From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 26 10:05:44 2010 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:05:44 -0700 Subject: [6pack] A Lucas Fable... In-Reply-To: <7B03FF66B5D0477B95F28534A74ED0A6@ranteer.local> References: <6BABAD287D4743E693024C88F89492B6@ranteer.local> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569508864@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7B03FF66B5D0477B95F28534A74ED0A6@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256950896D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Oliver: Let me share a recent experience. It is more food for thought than anything, because I feel it is so unusual as to be all but impossible to occur on anyone else's car. Last year, I went to start the TR6 after a long hibernation over the winter. I got a loud grinding noise but nothing else. Repeated attempts to start the car gave the same result. Not being certain as to what was wrong, I went for the easy stuff first. I took my battery to a local auto electric retailer. They tossed it on the tester and proceed to pull over 300 amps and pronounced it healthy. "Drat" says I, "'tis the starter I'll wager". Muttering anatomically unlikely unions of Mssr Lucas and the engineers at Triumph, I proceed to pull my freshly rebuilt (well, ok, 2 years old but fresh enough) OEM starter and haul my sorry a$$ over to the tech that rebuilt it. "A pox on thee, and thy rebuilt starter" I complain. "Don't get thy pantaloons in a bunch" was his knowing reply. The tech proceeds to strap the starter down to the test bench, and then cuts a 2x4 in half with the merrily spinning starter. Wide eyed with disbelief, I mutter "'Tis the work of the devil. Perhaps an exorcism of my car is at hand." I proceed to reinstall the starter and tighten all the connections, whereupon the car starts just fine. "The car is possessed" is my official diagnosis. Over the next few weeks, the grinding no start condition reappears, then disappears. Finally, it appears and stays long enough for me to try jump starting the car with my trusty daily driver. Voila! The problem instantly disappears. So I drive the TR6 back to the auto electric shop and ask for another battery test. "It has the stamina of the energizer bunny and the moral fortitude of John the Baptist" the tech announces. "Humbug!" says I, "Away with it." "Methinks thou art too hasty" says he. "Perhaps, but I am still persuaded to throw it on the dung heap." "As thou wishes, my lord" says the tech, with a look of utter contempt in his eyes. A new battery is installed, a few coins of the realm are exchanged, and the problem never returns. Moral - Batteries can be intermittent and cause nasty grinding noises. Vance Navarrette http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 8:06 AM To: '6 Pack list' Subject: Re: [6pack] starter or ring gear it's a high torque starter; not more than 2 years old. but worth checking. From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Apr 26 10:26:50 2010 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:26:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] A Lucas Fable... In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256950896D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <6BABAD287D4743E693024C88F89492B6@ranteer.local> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572569508864@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7B03FF66B5D0477B95F28534A74ED0A6@ranteer.local> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957256950896D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: Absolutely the best response ever written on the list, 'tis matters not be it forthright. And even addressed to "Oliver" > Oliver: > > Let me share a recent experience. It is more food for thought >than anything, >because I feel it is so unusual as to be all but impossible to occur on anyone >else's car. > Last year, I went to start the TR6 after a long hibernation >over the winter. >I got a loud grinding noise but nothing else. Repeated attempts to start the >car gave the same result. Not being certain as to what was wrong, I went for >the easy stuff first. I took my battery to a local auto electric retailer. >They tossed it on the tester and proceed to pull over 300 amps and pronounced >it healthy. > "Drat" says I, "'tis the starter I'll wager". > Muttering anatomically unlikely unions of Mssr Lucas and the >engineers at >Triumph, I proceed to pull my freshly rebuilt (well, ok, 2 years old but fresh >enough) OEM starter and haul my sorry a$$ over to the tech that rebuilt it. > "A pox on thee, and thy rebuilt starter" I complain. > "Don't get thy pantaloons in a bunch" was his knowing reply. > The tech proceeds to strap the starter down to the test >bench, and then cuts >a 2x4 in half with the merrily spinning starter. > Wide eyed with disbelief, I mutter "'Tis the work of the >devil. Perhaps an >exorcism of my car is at hand." > I proceed to reinstall the starter and tighten all the >connections, whereupon >the car starts just fine. "The car is possessed" is my official diagnosis. >Over the next few weeks, the grinding no start condition reappears, then >disappears. Finally, it appears and stays long enough for me to try jump >starting the car with my trusty daily driver. Voila! The problem instantly >disappears. So I drive the TR6 back to the auto electric shop and ask for >another battery test. > "It has the stamina of the energizer bunny and the moral >fortitude of John >the Baptist" the tech announces. > "Humbug!" says I, "Away with it." > "Methinks thou art too hasty" says he. > "Perhaps, but I am still persuaded to throw it on the dung heap." > "As thou wishes, my lord" says the tech, with a look of utter >contempt in his >eyes. > A new battery is installed, a few coins of the realm are >exchanged, and the >problem never returns. > > Moral - Batteries can be intermittent and cause nasty grinding noises. > -- "Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people undertake it." - Henry Ford Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 "Casper" TS16765L Wallace, CA From osternd at copper.net Mon Apr 26 11:11:30 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:11:30 -0700 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Message-ID: <20100426101130.29321B1F@resin16.mta.everyone.net> Oliver, I went through that same problem with a friends TR6. I decided the ring gear was worn and causing it to grind, but we replaced the starter with the good pinion gear hoping it would help, and it did help - for a while. It's back to grinding again, so looks like it was only a band aid fix. I think that's a common problem as there are a couple of places on the ring gear that get worn (the positions where the engine stops, and the starter has to re-engage it when starting). If it were easily done, re-installing the ring gear ~90 degrees (?) would help the problem. However, as the ring gear is worn, it's still going to wear the starter pinion. Hope it's not your ring gear, as has been pointed out, that's a pain to replace - Dale O From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Apr 26 10:59:06 2010 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 09:59:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Worn Ring gear - high torque starter motor- connection? Message-ID: <156180.53361.qm@web65611.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I lightened the flywheel and put on a new ring gear on when I did my clutch overhaul. Ring gear was chewed a bit, but no starting troubles. I wondered if my high torque starter motor is harder on the ring gear. Someone can likely explain this. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Apr 26 11:04:11 2010 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:04:11 +0000 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Message-ID: <1431309318-1272301180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1324780133-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> If the starter is not getting full power either from a weak battery or bad connection the actuator/gear might not be going in all the way and grazing the ring gear. Easy to check with a VOM at the starter. Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: osternd at copper.net Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Sent: Apr 26, 2010 12:11 PM Oliver, I went through that same problem with a friends TR6. I decided the ring gear was worn and causing it to grind, but we replaced the starter with the good pinion gear hoping it would help, and it did help - for a while. It's back to grinding again, so looks like it was only a band aid fix. I think that's a common problem as there are a couple of places on the ring gear that get worn (the positions where the engine stops, and the starter has to re-engage it when starting). If it were easily done, re-installing the ring gear ~90 degrees (?) would help the problem. However, as the ring gear is worn, it's still going to wear the starter pinion. Hope it's not your ring gear, as has been pointed out, that's a pain to replace - Dale O _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com Luis From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 26 11:40:00 2010 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 10:40:00 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Message-ID: <517150.91332.qm@web43131.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> If the engine won't turn and you hear nothing but grinding, pull the starter and examine the ringgear thru the hole where the starter was. You'll see any potential issues on the ringgear. If you think it's the ringgear turn the engine by hand to a spot on the ring gear that looks good and install the starter. See if it grinds or what? Todd Sent from my iPhone On Apr 26, 2010, at 11:05 AM, "oliver" wrote: it's a high torque starter; not more than 2 years old. but worth checking. -------------------------------------------------- From: "Navarrette, Vance" Sent: Monday, April 26, 2010 9:12 AM To: "oliver" ; "'6 Pack list'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: RE: [6pack] starter or ring gear Oliver: How new is the starter? My inclination would be to do the starter first, just because it is so much easier than the ring gear. Besides, the starters seem to be the things that go first - couldn't tell you the last time someone had a problem caused by a bad ring gear. Not saying that a ring gear can fail, but since it has no moving parts it seems to be the more reliable of the two. Vance _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/red_tr250 at yahoo.com From osternd at copper.net Mon Apr 26 12:03:49 2010 From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 11:03:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Message-ID: <20100426110349.2932E4FB@resin16.mta.everyone.net> That's certainly possible, however in my experience (FWIW), it's usually a sign of a worn gear. If the starter is not getting sufficient power, both the solenoid and motor would seem to experience problems. I suppose it's possible the solenoid switch could engage the motor, but if the pinion jams, it could grind. Just a guess here - Dale O --- lfm614 at aol.com wrote: From: lfm614 at aol.com To: osternd at copper.net, "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] starter or ring gear Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:04:11 +0000 If the starter is not getting full power either from a weak battery or bad connection the actuator/gear might not be going in all the way and grazing the ring gear. Easy to check with a VOM at the starter. Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: osternd at copper.net Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Sent: Apr 26, 2010 12:11 PM Oliver, I went through that same problem with a friends TR6. I decided the ring gear was worn and causing it to grind, but we replaced the starter with the good pinion gear hoping it would help, and it did help - for a while. It's back to grinding again, so looks like it was only a band aid fix. I think that's a common problem as there are a couple of places on the ring gear that get worn (the positions where the engine stops, and the starter has to re-engage it when starting). If it were easily done, re-installing the ring gear ~90 degrees (?) would help the problem. However, as the ring gear is worn, it's still going to wear the starter pinion. Hope it's not your ring gear, as has been pointed out, that's a pain to replace - Dale O _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/lfm614 at aol.com Luis From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Apr 26 12:04:35 2010 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 12:04:35 -0600 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear In-Reply-To: <1431309318-1272301180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1324780133-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1431309318-1272301180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1324780133-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <4BD5D5B3.1070306@dfn.com> lfm614 at aol.com wrote: > If the starter is not getting full power either from a weak battery or bad connection the actuator/gear might not be going in all the way and grazing the ring gear. Easy to check with a VOM at the starter. > > I could buy that but for the construction of this type of starter. It doesn't use a centrifugal Bendix-type arrangement to throw the pinion into mesh with the ring gear, nor does it have a solenoid and lever fork to move the pinion--either of those might not fully engage with a weak battery or high resistance in the starter primary or secondary circuits. These, on the other hand, use a pinion on a plunger operated by a solenoid, with the solenoid designed not to switch battery power to the starter windings until the pinion is fully extended. If it were just a matter of low battery power or high resistance (enough to prevent full engagement), the starter would not turn over, either. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 26 15:46:25 2010 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 16:46:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear - conclusion In-Reply-To: <4BD5D5B3.1070306@dfn.com> References: <1431309318-1272301180-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1324780133-@bda2595.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4BD5D5B3.1070306@dfn.com> Message-ID: I should have done this earlier. moving the engine 15 to 45 degrees does not solve the problem. but move it 90 to 120 degrees and it starts. every time. ring gear. From tr6 at atlasok.com Mon Apr 26 16:09:43 2010 From: tr6 at atlasok.com (John Phillips) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 17:09:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] starter or ring gear Message-ID: <001101cae58d$2c9e6d10$85db4730$@com> On at least three of the cars I have worked on the ring gear had been pushed almost off the flywheel by the starter repeatedly hitting it. Don't overlook the possibility that the ring gear may need to be pulled back into place on the flywheel. This can be done with a big C clamp through the starter hole. John Phillips Greasy Hands Garage North, Claremore, OK Green Country Triumphs http://www.greencountrytriumphs.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] From gaf3 at charter.net Mon Apr 26 17:15:21 2010 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Mon, 26 Apr 2010 19:15:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rear Differential Clunk Repair in the Car--Host hotel for VTR?? In-Reply-To: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> References: <4BCE2836.8000403@charter.net> Message-ID: <4BD61E89.9020408@charter.net> Thanks to all for the advice on fixing the rear axle clunk in the car. The car should show up in my driveway sometime this week. We'll see how much of a job it is. I have repaired many of these but on frame off restorations. Just made reservations at the Jekyll club resort hotel. See you at VTR Glenn Glenn Franco wrote: > Has anyone out there repaired or had repaired > cracked/failed/differential pins and crossmembers with the body still > on the frame? > I need to repair a TR6 with the body still on and wondered what the > best method has been. > I have seen holes cut in the rear deck to get at the crossmember to > repair it. > Thanks in advance > Glenn Franco > 3 6's Tr250 and Spits > Also > What's the host hotel for VTR 2010?? > Thanks >> End of 6pack Digest, Vol 4, Issue 91 >> ************************************ From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Apr 27 13:28:59 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 12:28:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Starter/ring gear problem Message-ID: <435478.13739.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I don't have any personal knowledge of this but I'm sure some of the listers do: It seems like I recall a thread about the ring gear having the wrong gear angle for cars with starters that engaged from the rear (this is not an obscene comment). As I recall the ring gear was originally designed for cars that used a pull method of engaging the starter not the push method used on our 6s and etc. If this is the case, it would seem that the ring gear or starter gear would be more likely to fail and, most importantly, if it becomes necessary to remove it from the flywheel you could rotate it 180 degrees, reinstall it and it would work even better than the original. What says the listers, is this a reasonable conclusion? Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 From davgil at aol.com Tue Apr 27 13:58:44 2010 From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 15:58:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Starter/ring gear problem In-Reply-To: <435478.13739.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <435478.13739.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CCB45B2CFDD713-1950-680@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> Mike, Like you, I don't have any personal knowledge, but I seem to recall a thread about reversing the ring gear to resolve this problem. Perhaps the solution is to reverse it and rotate it 90 or 270 degrees. I am going from a progressively unreliable memory here so I am certain that the true experts will set me or both of us straight. Regards, David Gill 1976 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: michael lunsford To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2010 3:28 pm Subject: [6pack] Starter/ring gear problem I don't have any personal knowledge of this but I'm sure some of the listers o: t seems like I recall a thread about the ring gear having the wrong gear ngle for cars with starters that engaged from the rear (this is not an bscene comment). As I recall the ring gear was originally designed for cars hat used a pull method of engaging the starter not the push method used on ur 6s and etc. If this is the case, it would seem that the ring gear or tarter gear would be more likely to fail and, most importantly, if it becomes ecessary to remove it from the flywheel you could rotate it 180 degrees, einstall it and it would work even better than the original. What says the isters, is this a reasonable conclusion? ike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 ______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net onate: http://www.team.net/donate.html rchive: http://www.team.net/archive orums: http://www.team.net/forums nsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/davgil at aol.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Apr 27 14:16:02 2010 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 16:16:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Starter/ring gear problem In-Reply-To: <435478.13739.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <435478.13739.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 27 Apr 2010, michael lunsford wrote: > I don't have any personal knowledge of this but I'm sure some of the listers > do: > > It seems like I recall a thread about the ring gear having the wrong gear > angle for cars with starters that engaged from the rear (this is not an > obscene comment). As I recall the ring gear was originally designed for cars > that used a pull method of engaging the starter not the push method used on > our 6s and etc. If this is the case, it would seem that the ring gear or > starter gear would be more likely to fail and, most importantly, if it becomes > necessary to remove it from the flywheel you could rotate it 180 degrees, > reinstall it and it would work even better than the original. What says the > listers, is this a reasonable conclusion? You most def. cannot flip the flywheel. TR6 flywheels are not symmetrical and there are machined surfaces that won't mate up (like the single dowel pin that locates the flywheel. To do what you really want to accomplish, you heat things up to 200(f) or so and then use a soft drift to remove the ring. Make sure the ring is hot and then install it in the other orientation. So, you can flip the ring, but you cannot flip the entire flywheel. > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2010 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Apr 27 14:57:32 2010 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 27 Apr 2010 13:57:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Starter/ring gear problem In-Reply-To: <8CCB45B2CFDD713-1950-680@webmail-d002.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <197084.68569.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> What I meant was to flip the ring gear over completely so the back (unworn) side of the ring gear becomes the side that comes in contact with the starter. If you just move the gear around on the flywheel the motor will eventually stop on the bad spot(s) again. Sorry if I was unclear about that. Mike Lunsford --- On Tue, 4/27/10, davgil at aol.com wrote: From: davgil at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Starter/ring gear problem To: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com, 6pack at autox.team.net Date: Tuesday, April 27, 2010, 3:58 PM Mike, Like you, I don't have any personal knowledge, but I seem to recall a thread about reversing the ring gear to resolve this problem. Perhaps the solution is to reverse it and rotate it 90 or 270 degrees. I am going from a progressively unreliable memory here so I am certain that the true experts will set me or both of us straight. Regards, David Gill 1976 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: michael lunsford To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Apr 27, 2010 3:28 pm Subject: [6pack] Starter/ring gear problem I don't have any personal knowledge of this but I'm sure some of the listers do: It seems like I recall a thread about the ring gear having the wrong gear angle for cars with starters that engaged from the rear (this is not an obscene comment). As I recall the ring gear was originally designed for cars that used a pull method of engaging the starter not the push method used on our 6s and etc. If this is the case, it would seem that the ring gear or starter gear would be more likely to fail and, most importantly, if it becomes necessary to remove it from the flywheel you could rotate it 180 degrees, reinstall it and it would work even better than the original. What says the listers, is this a reasonable conclusion? Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html Archive: http://www.team.net/archive Forums: http://www.team.net/forums Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/davgil at aol.com From ken at azkiwis.com Wed Apr 28 08:55:59 2010 From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis) Date: Wed, 28 Apr 2010 07:55:59 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Thanks Message-ID: <81084BBF05D4441E9AAC06B37E7158D8@AcerNetbook> to all who provided info on the blanking plate for the fuel pump area --- thank you! Of course, life happens, just when I thought I had some 'playtime' for the little one, I got saddled with house /furries / baby -sitting.... next week maybe. Thanks Ken 73 TR6 From wcwellbaum at cox.net Thu Apr 29 18:23:06 2010 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 17:23:06 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake booster--1975. Message-ID: <636873A0906D4383A8FF86A6061DD704@office> I began preparing for a 3 day getaway and noticed hydraulic fluid running down the front of my bake booster. At 86k miles I guess I've been lucky all these years--no booster problems, until now. So, what is the current thinking on Brake Boosters--rebuild or replace? If rebuild who does it and what is the typical turnaround time. Anybody know the difference in price between a rebuild and a new unit? Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas BACLV.org From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Apr 29 18:48:15 2010 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 20:48:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake booster--1975. References: <636873A0906D4383A8FF86A6061DD704@office> Message-ID: <585E71301FB448A3B82380902AF7B207@Alan> Its probably the seal in your brake master cylinder has gone bad and is causing the leak. The brake master cylinder needs to be rebuilt or replaced. Al www.triumphowners.com/625 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Wellbaum" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 8:23 PM Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake booster--1975. >I began preparing for a 3 day getaway and noticed hydraulic fluid running >down > the front of my bake booster. At 86k miles I guess I've been lucky all > these > years--no booster problems, until now. So, what is the current thinking > on > Brake Boosters--rebuild or replace? If rebuild who does it and what is > the > typical turnaround time. Anybody know the difference in price between a > rebuild and a new unit? > > Bill Wellbaum > British Auto Club of Las Vegas > BACLV.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tr6parts at charter.net From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Apr 29 20:22:34 2010 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 22:22:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake booster--1975. In-Reply-To: <636873A0906D4383A8FF86A6061DD704@office> References: <636873A0906D4383A8FF86A6061DD704@office> Message-ID: <19647DFED687409C9AEA00C9B82D759F@BobPC> Ted Schumacher at TSI (http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/) has been a friend of Triumph forever (over 30 years) and he usually has rebuilt ones on the shelf in exchange for his core. Long time Triumph guys know Ted and his products and my servo is from him. Give him a call............ Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bill Wellbaum" Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 8:23 PM To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake booster--1975. > I began preparing for a 3 day getaway and noticed hydraulic fluid running > down > the front of my bake booster. At 86k miles I guess I've been lucky all > these > years--no booster problems, until now. So, what is the current thinking > on > Brake Boosters--rebuild or replace? If rebuild who does it and what is > the > typical turnaround time. Anybody know the difference in price between a > rebuild and a new unit? > > Bill Wellbaum > British Auto Club of Las Vegas > BACLV.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Apr 29 21:00:44 2010 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 29 Apr 2010 23:00:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake booster--1975. References: <636873A0906D4383A8FF86A6061DD704@office> Message-ID: Bill: Before you spring for a replacement MC, you might want to check the seal/o-ring between the fluid reservoir and the body of the MC. I had fluid running down the front of the booster also, and I replaced the MC,, and later found that it was only the seal, which I could have replaced for a few cents. Might be worth a look. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Wellbaum" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 29, 2010 8:23 PM Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Brake booster--1975. >I began preparing for a 3 day getaway and noticed hydraulic fluid running >down > the front of my bake booster. At 86k miles I guess I've been lucky all > these > years--no booster problems, until now. So, what is the current thinking > on > Brake Boosters--rebuild or replace? If rebuild who does it and what is > the > typical turnaround time. Anybody know the difference in price between a > rebuild and a new unit? > > Bill Wellbaum > British Auto Club of Las Vegas > BACLV.org > _______________________________________________ > > 6pack at autox.team.net > Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html > Archive: http://www.team.net/archive > Forums: http://www.team.net/forums > Unsubscribe/Manage: > http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/6pack/tom628 at verizon.net