[6pack] Really need help!

[Navarrette, Vance]

 	Bill:

	Did you set your timing to 10 BTDC with the vacuum retard disconnected? You
should do this first.
      Is your vacuum retard connected to the proper port on your carbs? I have
seen many of these connected improperly, often with the assumption that the
vacuum capsule is a vacuum advance feature, rather than a retard.
	Loosen the linkage between the carbs when adjusting the idle, and use either
a carb gauge or a piece of hose as a stethoscope to balance the carbs.
	If it is still idling too fast, check your bypass valves on the carbs. If
they are not adjusted properly, they will give the symptoms you mention. A
giveaway for these is that often the engine will settle very slowly to idle at
a stop light.

	There is more stuff to check after that, but try these first, and tell us how
it goes.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Couzelis,William M.
Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 5:35 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Really need help!

Hi All,
    Another hard-to-diagnose problem has raised it's ugly head.  I have a
    '71 TR6 with stock Stromberg's.  The car starts OK with the choke, but
    will stall if I don't keep gas on it.  After about a minute, the idle
    starts to pick up and will go all the way to 1400-1500rpm's.  One
    problem is that I can't get the idle down - the idle screws are backed
    out all the way and are not even a factor.  When I shut it off, I get
    dieseling (I use 93 octane and heat range 12 plugs).

	<snip>

    Bill Couzelis