From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Sep 1 00:57:30 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 06:57:30 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 Message-ID: Joe---What prevented you from retarding the timing more than you did? Tach cable interference? By loosening the large bolt that clamps the distributor body, you should get plenty of movement. Let us know, as there is a solution to this. Your timing light shows crankshaft degrees, which is what you're looking for. (No x 2) Backfiring thru the carbs is a strong indication of cylinder crossfiring, meaning the engine is way out of time. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Joe Laurito Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 5:43 PM To: 6Pack List Subject: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 As a follow-up, I made sure the car was running tip-top before I started the change-over. Car ran smooth as butter. Looked at the timing with a strobe and found it to be set at about 9 ticks BTDC (I assume that equates to 18 degrees?) at idle which was about 750RPM and solid as a rock. Pulled the points and condenser and installed the Pertronix. I had to cut the wires back because they were way too long and the connectors were much too small for the mates on the coil. In addition, both red & black wires had female connectors and the coil wants a male on the negative side. I started the car up and it sounds like a blown exhaust gasket. It bangs, burps, backfires through the carbs and acts extremely rude on the whole. I did not move the distributor, but timing is now 2 ticks (4 degrees?) ATDC. I tried to retard the timing, but when cranked all the way clockwise, the best I can do is about 3 ticks BTDC so I returned it to where it was at two ticks ATDC. Idle is 500 RPM and very rough. I increased the idle speed to 800RPM and installed a new rotor, cap, ignition wires and nothing got any better (or worse). I changed to a Pertronix Flamethrower coil (which is larger than the Lucas and does not fit in the coil bracket) and nothing got any better. Not sure what to do next....put the points back? Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Laurito Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 11:10 AM To: 6Pack List Subject: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy I'm getting ready to install a Pertronix unit in the distributor of my '75 TR6. The current circuit has a red and a white wire from the harness going to the plus side of the coil and a black wire coming off the plus side of the coil going to a blue can (capacitor?) that is grounded to the coil mounting bolt. That last item is not shown on the wiring diagram applicable to that year. When I mount the Pertronix, should I keep or remove the blue component? Joe _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Tue Sep 1 06:14:22 2009 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 08:14:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door Checkstrap Repair Message-ID: <9A2BE6BCF1224CF5BCFC24F72883E541@Jerry2> Well, it finally happened, though without damage to the outside of the door when it swung open. The checkstrap pivot assembly on the door broke (partially). The DPO had welded a washer there and it borke off. Has anyone devised an alternative without taking off the door and re-welding a repair? I just put my freshly painted doors back on, finessing door gaps and lots of fiddling, and I hadn't noticed the DPO repair. I'm thinking about a small flexible cable attached between a hinge bolt and the A-post as a temporary safety measure to prevent a crease in my door. If this works, I may do it to the other door, too. Jerry http://www.triumphowners.com/977 From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Sep 1 06:15:47 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 05:15:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter Message-ID: <828703.72048.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Just a wild shot here but how much gas did you have in the tank during your maneuvers? I had a similar problem with my TBI and discussed it with Rick Patton who suggested that it was due to the fact that the gas line exits the tank on the left side and there are no baffles in the tank. Thus on hard left hand turns when the tank is less than half full all of the gas goes to the right side of the tank so there is no gasoline on the left side of the tank for the pump to send to the carbs. A little experimentation resulted in the confirmation of Rick's theory. YMMV. Mike Lunsford From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Sep 1 06:33:49 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 08:33:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door Checkstrap Repair In-Reply-To: <9A2BE6BCF1224CF5BCFC24F72883E541@Jerry2> References: <9A2BE6BCF1224CF5BCFC24F72883E541@Jerry2> Message-ID: <8CBF91797630297-1F50-127D@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> Jerry, They make replacements.? Why not buy a new set? Aaron -----Original Message----- From: Jerry C Shaw To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 1, 2009 8:14 am Subject: [6pack] Door Checkstrap Repair Well, it finally happened, though without damage to the outside of the door when it swung open. The checkstrap pivot assembly on the door broke (partially). The DPO had welded a washer there and it borke off. Has anyone devised an alternative without taking off the door and re-welding a repair? I just put my freshly painted doors back on, finessing door gaps and lots of fiddling, and I hadn't noticed the DPO repair. I'm thinking about a small flexible cable attached between a hinge bolt and the A-post as a temporary safety measure to prevent a crease in my door. If this works, I may do it to the other door, too. Jerry http://www.triumphowners.com/977 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com From trglory at verizon.net Tue Sep 1 06:34:14 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 08:34:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 In-Reply-To: <8CBF8CD97F010BF-B688-3A59D@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com> References: <012a01ca2a9d$4a885080$df98f180$@net> <014d01ca2aaa$72bc2420$58346c60$@net> <8CBF8CD97F010BF-B688-3A59D@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <019401ca2b00$846bc490$8d434db0$@net> Ummmm..no, there was nothing in the Pertronix instructions about making any adjustment. I loosened the nuts and tried to move the plate but there is no movement; might have to file the slotted hole for more clearance. Is that little piece of clear plastic the adjusting tool? Joe From: shewfamily at aol.com [mailto:shewfamily at aol.com] Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 11:44 PM To: trglory at verizon.net; rmcbride at mi.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 Just checking to make sure you set the air gap between the pickup and the ring that goes over the lobes. You indicated that you installed it but you didn't mention setting that gap with the gap tool provided. Just checking. John Shewmake '74 TR6 with Pertronics Birmingham, AL -----Original Message----- From: Joe Laurito To: 'Robert McBride' ; '6Pack List' <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, Aug 31, 2009 9:18 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 Robert; That sounds like it has possibilities, I'll try it tomorrow. Move the wires clockwise and turn the distributor counter-clockwise? Joe -----Original Message----- From: Robert McBride [mailto:rmcbride at mi.rr.com ] Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 9:24 PM To: Joe Laurito; 6Pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 I would move all the plug wires one hole on the cap and try again to set the timing.. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as shewfamily at aol.com From coffeycreek at yahoo.com Tue Sep 1 06:52:48 2009 From: coffeycreek at yahoo.com (mark creek) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 05:52:48 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] end Message-ID: <163567.19964.qm@web110313.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> coffeycreek at yahoo.com From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Sep 1 07:13:06 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 13:13:06 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Door Checkstrap Repair In-Reply-To: <8CBF91797630297-1F50-127D@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> References: <9A2BE6BCF1224CF5BCFC24F72883E541@Jerry2> <8CBF91797630297-1F50-127D@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Jerry, Also, you don't have to take off the door. Just the inside carpet pannel. Sloane :) > > Jerry, > > They make replacements.? Why not buy a new set? > > Aaron > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online. http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON: WL:en-US:SI_SB_online:082009 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Sep 1 07:14:31 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 13:14:31 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [Fwd: Intersting article] In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: It's a funny article. Too funny to be true, but funny. Sloane :) 69-Six > From: Lfm614 at aol.com > Date: Mon, 31 Aug 2009 18:42:27 -0400 > To: 6pack at Autox.Team.Net; triumphs at autox.team.net; StagByTriumph at tscusa.org > Subject: Re: [6pack] [Fwd: Intersting article] > > Cute, > > Lucas building an electric car and ironically enough calling it the > "Prince". Now you can't make that up, > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Make it easier for your friends to see what youre up to on Facebook. http://windowslive.com/Campaign/SocialNetworking?ocid=PID23285::T:WLMTAGL:ON: WL:en-US:SI_SB_facebook:082009 From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Tue Sep 1 07:26:24 2009 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 09:26:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Door Checkstrap Repair References: <9A2BE6BCF1224CF5BCFC24F72883E541@Jerry2> <8CBF91797630297-1F50-127D@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <5CBF9C1E03864421A96B276BE0C4D69A@Jerry2> The pivot assembly is where the checkstrap attaches to the door, usually has a rivet through it and is broken. The checkstrap itself attaches to the A-post through a spring-loaded apeture, and is not the issue. ----- Original Message ----- From: im sloane To: acekraut11 at aol.com ; slowtoaccept at yahoo.com ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 9:13 AM Subject: RE: [6pack] Door Checkstrap Repair Jerry, Also, you don't have to take off the door. Just the inside carpet pannel. Sloane :) > > Jerry, > > They make replacements.? Why not buy a new set? > > Aaron > ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Windows Live: Keep your friends up to date with what you do online. Find out more. From trglory at verizon.net Tue Sep 1 09:14:52 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 11:14:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 In-Reply-To: <019401ca2b00$846bc490$8d434db0$@net> References: <012a01ca2a9d$4a885080$df98f180$@net> <014d01ca2aaa$72bc2420$58346c60$@net> <8CBF8CD97F010BF-B688-3A59D@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com> <019401ca2b00$846bc490$8d434db0$@net> Message-ID: <01b701ca2b16$f4f08a00$ded19e00$@net> This is what happens when one bozo writes installation instructions and another bozo follows them to a tee. I hope neither one of us gets the opportunity to work on the next moon shot. I removed the IC assembly from the distributor and filed the slot out a bit. When I put them back in I was now able to move the plate in & out, so I closed the gap as far as I could and I almost got it to the size of the plastic gauge (close...almost there). I was then able to set the timing to where I wanted it and the car seems to be running OK now. I'll have to drive it around a bit and make some fine adjustments, but I think I'm OK now. Thanks John and thanks to all the other folks who provided food for thought. Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Laurito Sent: Tuesday, September 01, 2009 8:34 AM To: shewfamily at aol.com; rmcbride at mi.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 Ummmm..no, there was nothing in the Pertronix instructions about making any adjustment. I loosened the nuts and tried to move the plate but there is no movement; might have to file the slotted hole for more clearance. Is that little piece of clear plastic the adjusting tool? Joe From: shewfamily at aol.com [mailto:shewfamily at aol.com] Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 11:44 PM To: trglory at verizon.net; rmcbride at mi.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 Just checking to make sure you set the air gap between the pickup and the ring that goes over the lobes. You indicated that you installed it but you didn't mention setting that gap with the gap tool provided. Just checking. John Shewmake '74 TR6 with Pertronics Birmingham, AL From jmitch at snet.net Tue Sep 1 09:26:53 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 11:26:53 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 In-Reply-To: <019401ca2b00$846bc490$8d434db0$@net> References: <012a01ca2a9d$4a885080$df98f180$@net> <014d01ca2aaa$72bc2420$58346c60$@net> <8CBF8CD97F010BF-B688-3A59D@webmail-d017.sysops.aol.com> <019401ca2b00$846bc490$8d434db0$@net> Message-ID: <4A9D3D3D.8060407@snet.net> Mine didn't come with any instructions to check the gap either. I just positioned it as close as possible within the movement available and of course not touching. John Mitchell 76 TR6 PS. I keep an extra unit in the boot just in case. I can change the pertronix sensor much faster than reinstalling a distributor plate with points. Joe Laurito wrote: > Ummmm..no, there was nothing in the Pertronix instructions about making any > adjustment. I loosened the nuts and tried to move the plate but there is no > movement; might have to file the slotted hole for more clearance. Is that > little piece of clear plastic the adjusting tool? > > > > Joe > > > > From: shewfamily at aol.com [mailto:shewfamily at aol.com] > Sent: Monday, August 31, 2009 11:44 PM > To: trglory at verizon.net; rmcbride at mi.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Dizzy - Part 2 > > > > Just checking to make sure you set the air gap between the pickup and the > ring that goes over the lobes. You indicated that you installed it but you > didn't mention setting that gap with the gap tool provided. Just checking. > > John Shewmake > > '74 TR6 with Pertronics > > Birmingham, AL From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Sep 1 12:50:45 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 01 Sep 2009 18:50:45 GMT Subject: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter Message-ID: Mike, and others---I know this low-fuel-level-in-the-tank is a popular explanation to why the engine appears to starve on left turns. I have a hard time buying into this. Even if the tank is temporarily not letting fuel get into the exit fitting at the bottom, what happened to all of the fuel that is in the lines, fuel pump and carb bowls? There should be plenty left to handle any sudden sharp turns. Assuming this turn didn't last for a duration for the cavitation to reach the engine. For those perplexed enough to really find out if it's starvation or flooding, installing an O2 sensor and an air/fuel monitor (in the cockpit) would provide a clue. I love a mystery! Dick -----Original Message----- From: michael lunsford Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2009 5:15 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter Just a wild shot here but how much gas did you have in the tank during your maneuvers? I had a similar problem with my TBI and discussed it with Rick Patton who suggested that it was due to the fact that the gas line exits the tank on the left side and there are no baffles in the tank. Thus on hard left hand turns when the tank is less than half full all of the gas goes to the right side of the tank so there is no gasoline on the left side of the tank for the pump to send to the carbs. A little experimentation resulted in the confirmation of Rick's theory. YMMV. Mike Lunsford 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Sep 1 13:33:02 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 15:33:02 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Tue, 1 Sep 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > I love a mystery! I replied to this one off list, but I believe Kastner covered this topic in one of the books. In short, they modified the float bowl so that the float cannot droop all the way down, but it can go low enough to get full fuel flow from the needle valve. I can't recall which book, though. Oh well... > Dick regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Sep 1 14:40:46 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Tue, 1 Sep 2009 20:40:46 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter Message-ID: <1836483272-1251837710-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1382173288-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> That makes a lot more sense Bob. Lou ------Original Message------ From: Robert Lang Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: Sally or Dick Taylor Cc: TR-6 list Cc: michael lunsford Subject: Re: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter Sent: Sep 1, 2009 2:33 PM On Tue, 1 Sep 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > I love a mystery! I replied to this one off list, but I believe Kastner covered this topic in one of the books. In short, they modified the float bowl so that the float cannot droop all the way down, but it can go low enough to get full fuel flow from the needle valve. I can't recall which book, though. Oh well... > Dick regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Sep 3 23:39:40 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 05:39:40 GMT Subject: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter Message-ID: Bob Lang partially uncovered what might be happening here, referring to something that Kastner once wrote about this. So I asked KK and he said: "Fuel slosh when making certain turns causes the vent hole in the carbs to get covered, depriving fuel from entering the bowls. The top of the carbs can be turned so the vent is on another side, as I recall." (DT) This might explain why the early sixes have this going on, as the later carbs vented via hoses to the carbon canister. No? Doesn't explain the half tank theory, but it's a start! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2009 12:33 PM To: Sally or Dick Taylor Cc: michael lunsford, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter On Tue, 1 Sep 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > I love a mystery! I replied to this one off list, but I believe Kastner covered this topic in one of the books. In short, they modified the float bowl so that the float cannot droop all the way down, but it can go low enough to get full fuel flow from the needle valve. I can't recall which book, though. Oh well... > Dick regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Fri Sep 4 07:30:55 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Fri, 4 Sep 2009 08:30:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Instrument restoration Message-ID: Hi All, Can anyone recommend a company to restore my tach and speedometer for a '71 TR-6? Any idea how much it costs and turnaround time? Thanks, Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 4 12:56:40 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 14:56:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Instrument restoration In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4AA162E8.10009@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Bill, Can you define "restore" i.e.gauges refinished to concurs standards or do you just want them re-calibrated. If you're looking to have both re-calibrated, I highly recommend West Valley Auto in Resada CA. My speedo was re-calibrated for $125 and the odometer gear was changed out for $60 to accommodate the Toyota 5 speed and Nissan Diff. The cable rebuild was $30. The tach was re-calibrated for $100 and the cable was $20. They do not cosmetically refurbish the gauge to new condition though they do clean them up nicely. Look as it as a mechanical restoration versus a Concurs restoration. Turn around time was less then 10 days in both cases but Morris calls once he gets your gauge and gives you a firm price and date. Whatever you do, get your cables rebuilt at the same time. Most cables have too much of the tip protruding which can impact and/or damage your gauge. Toward the bottom of this page http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm are all the proper cable specs. Here's a 6-Pack Forum thread on West Valley http://tinyurl.com/ldtgok Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org Couzelis,William M. wrote: > Hi All, > Can anyone recommend a company to restore my tach and speedometer for a > '71 TR-6? Any idea how much it costs and turnaround time? > Thanks, > > Bill Couzelis > > > E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any > attachments are intended solely for the > addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged > information. If you are not the > intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to > you in error, please > immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and > any attachments. If you > are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, > distribution, copying, or > storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Sep 4 15:40:29 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 04 Sep 2009 21:40:29 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: Left Hand turn stutter Message-ID: See the forward, below! DT -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Thursday, September 3, 2009 10:39 PM To: Robert Lang Cc: michael lunsford, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter Bob Lang partially uncovered what might be happening here, referring to something that Kastner once wrote about this. So I asked KK and he said: "Fuel slosh when making certain turns causes the vent hole in the carbs to get covered, depriving fuel from entering the bowls. The top of the carbs can be turned so the vent is on another side, as I recall." (DT) This might explain why the early sixes have this going on, as the later carbs vented via hoses to the carbon canister. No? Doesn't explain the half tank theory, but it's a start! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang Sent: Tuesday, September 1, 2009 12:33 PM To: Sally or Dick Taylor Cc: michael lunsford, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter On Tue, 1 Sep 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > I love a mystery! I replied to this one off list, but I believe Kastner covered this topic in one of the books. In short, they modified the float bowl so that the float cannot droop all the way down, but it can go low enough to get full fuel flow from the needle valve. I can't recall which book, though. Oh well... > Dick regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Sep 7 22:27:46 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Mon, 7 Sep 2009 21:27:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Tightening front hubs - what I found Message-ID: <894811.83958.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Had my 6 in for an alignment after a bit of mig welding to fix a tear on right turret where fulcrum pin attaches. DPO hit in that area many years ago. took a while for stresses to work through. Relief that all went back together nicely. Shop took over 2 hours to do full alignment, but only charged me regular price of 4 wheel alignment. nice guys! Recommended them to other club members. Big problem was rear thrust angles were way out. We also seemed to cure a long term front camber issue. A bit of a crease on main rail will remain. Anyways, alignment mechanic said I needed to tighten front wheel bearings. Roadster Factory recommends 10 lbs torque, then backing off just enough to insert pin. Took the old pin out and tried the torque wrench with ten lbs to see where I was. I had maybe 5 lbs. Cleaned up all the threads, torqued castle nut on till it clicked 10 lbs and inserted the split pin at that point as the hole was available. Wheel back on, hands on tire top and bottom, can't produce any wheel rock. You can still spin the wheel without a need to strain. Test drive, it certainly seemed tighter. This procedure seemed to work for someone w/o a lot of mechanical expereince to rely on. I have Uncle Jack's kit to stiffen up the stub axles, but haven't got around to installing it. I'll check all the bearings and re-pack them at the same time. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Sep 8 00:52:02 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 06:52:02 GMT Subject: [6pack] Tightening front hubs - what I found Message-ID: Bruce---If you like to keep the brake pedal high, Uncle Jack's HD spindles and bearing shims certainly helps control the pads from getting knocked back. Best that the rotors and pads have no taper, of course. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, September 7, 2009 9:27 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Tightening front hubs - what I found Had my 6 in for an alignment after a bit of mig welding to fix a tear on right turret where fulcrum pin attaches. DPO hit in that area many years ago. took a while for stresses to work through. Relief that all went back together nicely. Shop took over 2 hours to do full alignment, but only charged me regular price of 4 wheel alignment. nice guys! Recommended them to other club members. Big problem was rear thrust angles were way out. We also seemed to cure a long term front camber issue. A bit of a crease on main rail will remain. Anyways, alignment mechanic said I needed to tighten front wheel bearings. Roadster Factory recommends 10 lbs torque, then backing off just enough to insert pin. Took the old pin out and tried the torque wrench with ten lbs to see where I was. I had maybe 5 lbs. Cleaned up all the threads, torqued castle nut on till it clicked 10 lbs and inserted the split pin at that point as the hole was available. Wheel back on, hands on tire top and bottom, can't produce any wheel rock. You can still spin the wheel without a need to strain. Test drive, it certainly seemed tighter. This procedure seemed to work for someone w/o a lot of mechanical expereince to rely on. I have Uncle Jack's kit to stiffen up the stub axles, but haven't got around to installing it. I'll check all the bearings and re-pack them at the same time. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Tue Sep 8 18:34:53 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 19:34:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Really need help! Message-ID: Hi All, Another hard-to-diagnose problem has raised it's ugly head. I have a '71 TR6 with stock Stromberg's. The car starts OK with the choke, but will stall if I don't keep gas on it. After about a minute, the idle starts to pick up and will go all the way to 1400-1500rpm's. One problem is that I can't get the idle down - the idle screws are backed out all the way and are not even a factor. When I shut it off, I get dieseling (I use 93 octane and heat range 12 plugs). Another weird thing is that it did this with two totally different Stromberg carburators. All were rebuilt. The distributor is somewhat advanced, but I tried a number of settings from way retard to way advanced. Fuel pressure is about 3psi and manifold pressure is 18. I have a sport coil with elec. Ignition. I changed the distributor when I found that the old one had a non-functioning vacuum retard and "frozen" weights and springs. I found one that had a good vacuum retard and loose weights and springs - but that is when all of this weird stuff started happening. Can it be distributor related? When running, the car runs great. Strong pull and smooth acceleration. Any suggestions/ideas would be appreciated. Bill Couzelis Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From wcwellbaum at cox.net Tue Sep 8 17:36:58 2009 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 16:36:58 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Shameless commerce Message-ID: A friend in poor health needs to sell his Solo II Spitfire. Contact me off-line for pictures and details. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas, Nv. wcwellbaum at cox.net From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Sep 8 21:00:10 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 08 Sep 2009 23:00:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Really need help! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CBFF10C75CA5AA-1BD0-E58B@webmail-d011.sysops.aol.com> check to see if butterflies are seated in the bores properly....should have nice sound when landing in place. back off screws and let spring land and center butterflies before tighteng. this is one cause for higher than normal idle on our triumphs.? joe a -----Original Message----- From: Couzelis,William M. To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 8, 2009 7:34 pm Subject: [6pack] Really need help! Hi All, Another hard-to-diagnose problem has raised it's ugly head. I have a '71 TR6 with stock Stromberg's. The car starts OK with the choke, but will stall if I don't keep gas on it. After about a minute, the idle starts to pick up and will go all the way to 1400-1500rpm's. One problem is that I can't get the idle down - the idle screws are backed out all the way and are not even a factor. When I shut it off, I get dieseling (I use 93 octane and heat range 12 plugs). Another weird thing is that it did this with two totally different Stromberg carburators. All were rebuilt. The distributor is somewhat advanced, but I tried a number of settings from way retard to way advanced. Fuel pressure is about 3psi and manifold pressure is 18. I have a sport coil with elec. Ignition. I changed the distributor when I found that the old one had a non-functioning vacuum retard and "frozen" weights and springs. I found one that had a good vacuum retard and loose weights and springs - but that is when all of this weird stuff started happening. Can it be distributor related? When running, the car runs great. Strong pull and smooth acceleration. Any suggestions/ideas would be appreciated. Bill Couzelis Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/l istinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 8 21:07:40 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 22:07:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] anything happening the weekend of nov 13-14 Message-ID: <18E2F40B8ACE43B980CD9A27D61F59EC@ranteer.local> looks like i'll be in the philadelphia area. anything going on? From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Tue Sep 8 21:24:32 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 8 Sep 2009 23:24:32 EDT Subject: [6pack] Really need help! Message-ID: I have, on occasion, seen the throttle linkage get installed backward which makes the idle screws rather worthless. Just a thought. Cheers, Gary From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Sep 9 05:38:02 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 07:38:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Really need help! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200909090738.03558.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Tuesday 08 September 2009 08:34:53 pm Couzelis,William M. wrote: > Hi All, > Another hard-to-diagnose problem has raised it's ugly head. I have > a > '71 TR6 with stock Stromberg's. The car starts OK with the choke, > but > will stall if I don't keep gas on it. After about a minute, the > idle > starts to pick up and will go all the way to 1400-1500rpm's. One > problem is that I can't get the idle down - the idle screws are > backed > out all the way and are not even a factor. When I shut it off, I > get > dieseling (I use 93 octane and heat range 12 plugs). > Another weird thing is that it did this with two totally different > Stromberg carburators. All were rebuilt. The distributor is > somewhat > advanced, but I tried a number of settings from way retard to way > advanced. Fuel pressure is about 3psi and manifold pressure is 18. > I > have a sport coil with elec. Ignition. > I changed the distributor when I found that the old one had a > non-functioning vacuum retard and "frozen" weights and springs. I > found > one that had a good vacuum retard and loose weights and springs - > but > that is when all of this weird stuff started happening. Can it be > distributor related? When running, the car runs great. Strong pull > and > smooth acceleration. Any suggestions/ideas would be appreciated. > Bill Couzelis > > > Bill Couzelis > Bill, I dont have an answer because I am an SU guy. First thing I did on my current 72 TR6 project was send the distributor to Advanced and get it totally rebuilt. So, if you think the problem may be spark related, get the distributor rebuilt. I had Jeff do mine and add the advance/retard micro thumb wheel similar to the distributors on my 3 and 4. He will set the curve for your specific engine requirements. I believe the total cost for the rebuild was about 125$. All new internals, points, condenser and the coil wire attachment. He also handles Petronix. Bob From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Wed Sep 9 07:56:42 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 08:56:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] I really need help! Message-ID: Thanks to all that responded so quickly with great suggestions. It looks like the culprit was the by-pass valves. I took them off and blocked them with duct tape. After fiddling with the idle and timing, the car will now hold idle at whatever I set the screws at (I have it set at about 900rpm's now). Dieseling has stopped and the car will start much quicker. I realize that blocking the by-pass valves is not recommended for a couple of reasons, but does anyone have their's blocked? What is the effect and how did you block them? Thanks again, Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Sep 9 10:59:52 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 09:59:52 -0700 Subject: [6pack] I really need help! References: Message-ID: <002601ca316e$f350e8d0$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> Huh, Where are the "bypass valves" ? Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Couzelis,William M." To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 6:56 AM Subject: [6pack] I really need help! > Thanks to all that responded so quickly with great suggestions. It > looks like the culprit was the by-pass valves. I took them off and > blocked them with duct tape. After fiddling with the idle and timing, > the car will now hold idle at whatever I set the screws at (I have it > set at about 900rpm's now). Dieseling has stopped and the car will > start much quicker. > I realize that blocking the by-pass valves is not recommended for a > couple of reasons, but does anyone have their's blocked? What is the > effect and how did you block them? > Thanks again, > > Bill Couzelis > > E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any > attachments are intended solely for the > addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged > information. If you are not the > intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to > you in error, please > immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and > any attachments. If you > are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, > distribution, copying, or > storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.13230 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13230 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Sep 9 08:19:50 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 07:19:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Really need help! In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB6327C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bill: Did you set your timing to 10 BTDC with the vacuum retard disconnected? You should do this first. Is your vacuum retard connected to the proper port on your carbs? I have seen many of these connected improperly, often with the assumption that the vacuum capsule is a vacuum advance feature, rather than a retard. Loosen the linkage between the carbs when adjusting the idle, and use either a carb gauge or a piece of hose as a stethoscope to balance the carbs. If it is still idling too fast, check your bypass valves on the carbs. If they are not adjusted properly, they will give the symptoms you mention. A giveaway for these is that often the engine will settle very slowly to idle at a stop light. There is more stuff to check after that, but try these first, and tell us how it goes. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Couzelis,William M. Sent: Tuesday, September 08, 2009 5:35 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Really need help! Hi All, Another hard-to-diagnose problem has raised it's ugly head. I have a '71 TR6 with stock Stromberg's. The car starts OK with the choke, but will stall if I don't keep gas on it. After about a minute, the idle starts to pick up and will go all the way to 1400-1500rpm's. One problem is that I can't get the idle down - the idle screws are backed out all the way and are not even a factor. When I shut it off, I get dieseling (I use 93 octane and heat range 12 plugs). Bill Couzelis From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Sep 9 08:23:56 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 07:23:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] I really need help! In-Reply-To: <002601ca316e$f350e8d0$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <002601ca316e$f350e8d0$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB63282@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bob: On the carbs. When decelerating they open, reducing manifold vacuum and emissions. They should close once the engine gets close to idle speed. Often the are misadjusted so that they are open all the time, thus they act as an air bleed and raise the idle speed. When properly adjusted they are transparent to the driver, and simply reduce emissions with no effect on idle, or drivability. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 10:00 AM To: Couzelis,William M.; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] I really need help! Huh, Where are the "bypass valves" ? Bob From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Sep 9 11:57:13 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 10:57:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] I really need help! References: <002601ca316e$f350e8d0$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB63282@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <004301ca3176$f6019040$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> Thanks Vance, it is good to learn something new everyday. I had a 68 and now a 71 and never had any experience with bypass valves. BTW I just found the VTR reference for testing them (Thanks Scott). For the record my '71 (built in late '70) has: Stock ignition, sport coil Timing right on, dwell right on Dizzy has no retard setup (PO removed or normal?) Car will diesel on engine shutdown unless premium fuel is used. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "Bob" ; "Couzelis,William M." ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 7:23 AM Subject: RE: [6pack] I really need help! > Bob: > > On the carbs. > When decelerating they open, reducing manifold vacuum and emissions. They should close once the engine gets close to idle speed. Often the are misadjusted so that they are open all the time, thus they act as an air bleed and raise the idle speed. > When properly adjusted they are transparent to the driver, and simply reduce emissions with no effect on idle, or drivability. > > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 10:00 AM > To: Couzelis,William M.; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] I really need help! > > Huh, > Where are the "bypass valves" ? > Bob > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.13230 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13230 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Wed Sep 9 09:05:55 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 10:05:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Effects of blocking bypass Message-ID: Now that we figured that out, what is the effect of blocking the by-pass valve and what is the best way to block it? Some use tin. Can't I just make a gasket without the openings? Bill E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Sep 9 12:21:43 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 11:21:43 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Effects of blocking bypass References: Message-ID: <006201ca317a$64b2a1c0$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> This is the VTR article I found bypass valves, see second paragraph. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/zs-tech-tips.shtml Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Couzelis,William M." To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 8:05 AM Subject: [6pack] Effects of blocking bypass > Now that we figured that out, what is the effect of blocking the by-pass > valve and what is the best way to block it? Some use tin. Can't I just > make a gasket without the openings? > > Bill > > E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any > attachments are intended solely for the > addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged > information. If you are not the > intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to > you in error, please > immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and > any attachments. If you > are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, > distribution, copying, or > storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.13230 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13230 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Sep 9 09:42:15 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 11:42:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Effects of blocking bypass In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CBFF7B3D6C42CE-3704-33FBD@webmail-m011.sysops.aol.com> Bill, The best article I have read on the ZS carb can be found here: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm Written by Nelson Riedel and what I used when I rebuilt my carbs.? The link is for the overall technical page.? Look down the left to check out the various articles on ZS carbs.? Aaron -----Original Message----- From: Couzelis,William M. To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Sep 9, 2009 11:05 am Subject: [6pack] Effects of blocking bypass Now that we figured that out, what is the effect of blocking the by-pass valve and what is the best way to block it? Some use tin. Can't I just make a gasket without the openings? Bill From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Sep 9 11:14:07 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 10:14:07 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Effects of blocking bypass In-Reply-To: <006201ca317a$64b2a1c0$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <006201ca317a$64b2a1c0$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB63475@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bob: Nice little article, and spot on best I can tell. The article fails to mention how difficult it is to access the adjuster screw on the rear carb. It is between the carbs and requires a screw driver of no more than 2 inches in length. I used a short finishing nail and filed a flat blade on the tip. I keep it in the tool chest in case I need to adjust the valves. Fortunately, once set up they seem to never need any fiddling. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 11:22 AM To: Couzelis,William M.; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Effects of blocking bypass This is the VTR article I found bypass valves, see second paragraph. http://www.vtr.org/maintain/zs-tech-tips.shtml Bob From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com Wed Sep 9 11:28:22 2009 From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 13:28:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Left Hand turn stutter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Good timing on this thread . . . I just did a local autocross the other weekend which had a couple of fairly long duration left hand turns. During / immediately after each of them I had all kinds of nasty popping and hesitating going on. My fuel tank was VERY low at the time. (Tank is not baffled - it is either an original early 1970 tank or I swiped it from a TR4) (video links attached) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XT_tIWpidEs http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9T1fy8pqwQ0 These are early 1970 strombergs, althought the fixed needles have been replaced with adjustable ones. The car isn't tuned worth a crap, so I'm not at the point of frustration at not being able to solve it (yet) I took the carbs off (put some weber down drafts in their place so I could still drive the car) and started taking them apart to see what was what . . . My early carbs have a brass . . .uhh . . I'll call it a cup . .. a big brass cup that screws up around the tube under the jet. It surrounds the jet, but has holes in the sides of it so that it will fill up with fuel . . . (assuming the level of the fuel is above the holes.) The bottom of this cup actually protrudes down through the bottom of the float bowl and has a large slot in it (bigger than your average screwdriver) Don't later carbs just have a plug blocking off this hole in the float bowl? Do they have some sort of cup surrounding the jet tube? I'm a little confused as to what the purpose of this cup is. Is it kind of like a baffled fuel tank - or a swirl pot in a fuel injected car's fuel tank? I haven't thought it through completely . . . but I am trying to picture what happens during long duration, hard turn. One where you are on and off the thottle a fair amount and enduring high cornering forces . . . I could imagine sucking most of the fuel out of this little "cup" and it not getting replenished quickly enough once the turn is completed. Like I said- I haven't thought it through . . .but this thread got me thinking about it. Scott Tilton Signature below blatantly stolen from Bud Rolofson: 70TR6 CC5#### (Good 6) 63TR4 CT157## (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 64TR4 CT25### (The Project) 97F-150 L TRUCKO (Triumph Support Vehicle) 1989 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (economic commuter vehicle) From rnorris1 at swbell.net Wed Sep 9 12:21:25 2009 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 11:21:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Rear carb Bypass Valve Adjustment Message-ID: <522798.25288.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> While having the same struggle as you've described with my rebuilt ZS's, I was informed that the rear carb's bypass valve can easily be adusted by simply pulling the throttle linkage to full open thereby exposing the adjustment screw to a small screwdriver. I had already explored the depth and breadth of my expletive vocabulary with no particular success! Rick Norris From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Sep 9 13:00:19 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 12:00:19 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rear carb Bypass Valve Adjustment In-Reply-To: <522798.25288.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <522798.25288.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB63599@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Rick: While that allows you access, you really need to be able to adjust the valve when the car is idling (when does the idle speed begin to increase? Hard to tell with the throttle wide open.) I suppose with patience this approach will work (blip, adjust, idle. blip, adjust, idle, etc), but I don't have the patience. This is what getting old does to you. Thanks, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Norris Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 11:21 AM To: William.Couzelis at CNA.com Cc: 6-pack listserve Subject: [6pack] Rear carb Bypass Valve Adjustment While having the same struggle as you've described with my rebuilt ZS's, I was informed that the rear carb's bypass valve can easily be adusted by simply pulling the throttle linkage to full open thereby exposing the adjustment screw to a small screwdriver. I had already explored the depth and breadth of my expletive vocabulary with no particular success! Rick Norris From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Sep 9 16:09:45 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 16:09:45 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Test - Please delete In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <2C4854BA-36EB-4DEC-BFE3-7243FE6E101B@comcast.net> From rnorris1 at swbell.net Wed Sep 9 17:07:23 2009 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 16:07:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Rear carb Bypass Valve Adjustment In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB63599@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <522798.25288.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB63599@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <165602.62174.qm@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Busted! I actually needed enough room just for about an eighth of a turn which I accomplished with the engine off and the throttle full open. I had previously tried to adjusted the bypass valves with a $1.25 screwdriver from my friendly Ace Hardware store. I heated the tip and bent it a a right angle allowing me almost three quarters of a turn with the engine idling so I felt I was close to having it right. Your "bent nail" tip on an earlier post was my motivation there and I thank you. Rick Norris ________________________________ From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: Rick Norris ; "William.Couzelis at CNA.com" Cc: 6-pack listserve <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2009 2:00:19 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] Rear carb Bypass Valve Adjustment Rick: While that allows you access, you really need to be able to adjust the valve when the car is idling (when does the idle speed begin to increase? Hard to tell with the throttle wide open.) I suppose with patience this approach will work (blip, adjust, idle. blip, adjust, idle, etc), but I don't have the patience. This is what getting old does to you. Thanks, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Norris Sent: Wednesday, September 09, 2009 11:21 AM To: William.Couzelis at CNA.com Cc: 6-pack listserve Subject: [6pack] Rear carb Bypass Valve Adjustment While having the same struggle as you've described with my rebuilt ZS's, I was informed that the rear carb's bypass valve can easily be adusted by simply pulling the throttle linkage to full open thereby exposing the adjustment screw to a small screwdriver. I had already explored the depth and breadth of my expletive vocabulary with no particular success! Rick Norris From william.mcintire at wright.edu Wed Sep 9 17:39:47 2009 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Wed, 09 Sep 2009 19:39:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Valve Adjustment In-Reply-To: <165602.62174.qm@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <522798.25288.qm@web81503.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFB63599@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <165602.62174.qm@web81508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5fb09aed48a6b.4aa80483@wright.edu> Could someone enlighten me as to the vale clearance on my '70? It has had a factory S-2 cam (and push rods and lifters) for ~37 years. I put Kas's Comp. Prep manual somewhere I wouldn't loose it. Also had the numbers memorized. Unfortunately old age crept in while I wasn't looking and can't find da book or remember the numbers. Help? TIA Bill '70 6 Original Owner From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Sep 9 18:11:46 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 00:11:46 GMT Subject: [6pack] Valve Adjustment Message-ID: Bill---When I was running the S-2 cam, the clearances were set at .016 hot. Pretty sure that's what's called for. Dick -----Original Message----- From: William McIntire Sent: Wednesday, September 9, 2009 4:39 PM To: 6-pack listserve Cc: 6-pack listserve Subject: [6pack] Valve Adjustment Could someone enlighten me as to the vale clearance on my '70? It has had a factory S-2 cam (and push rods and lifters) for ~37 years. I put Kas's Comp. Prep manual somewhere I wouldn't loose it. Also had the numbers memorized. Unfortunately old age crept in while I wasn't looking and can't find da book or remember the numbers. Help? TIA Bill '70 6 Original Owner 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From triosan at gmail.com Wed Sep 9 21:43:50 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 9 Sep 2009 20:43:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Picture from Kastner Cup at Portland Sept 5-6 09 Message-ID: <8cbd782d0909092043l5083eb03u5b215cc4bf36f5cb@mail.gmail.com> I have uploaded a ton of pictures at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/KastnerCupColumbiaRiverClassic09# When you are at the pictures you can also go uo to the top [all my public albums] and see all of Morty Dunst racing and getting the Cup award. Enjoy and use as you wish with credits. -- Chuck Arnold From mcmeganutt at aol.com Thu Sep 10 12:41:38 2009 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 14:41:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Connecticut Triumph Register 29th Annual British Motorcar Gathering Message-ID: <8CC005D770A62F2-37F0-29628@webmail-d038.sysops.aol.com> This Sunday September 13th marks the 29th Annual CTR British Motorcar Gathering and Picnic to be held at Wickham Park, Manchester, CT. from 9:00am to 3:30pm. For additional show information and car registration forms go to www.CTRiumph.com. For info on Wickham Park go to www.wickhampark.org From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Fri Sep 11 00:50:40 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Thu, 10 Sep 2009 23:50:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Run on valve Message-ID: <261493.40138.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Folks. I took off my grill to clean it up and it went back on as fast as it came off. 4 hours off, 4 hours on. I KNOW! I also was attempting to replace the radiator shroud with a Goodparts stainless steel one. I discovered the horn was way down there and the side of the shroud won't go down. No problem, just move the horn. Somehow the hose from the run on control valve got disconnected "down there somewhere". Anyone know what it attaches to and how to get to it to attach it? trsloth From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 11 06:22:12 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 08:22:12 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Run on valve In-Reply-To: <261493.40138.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <261493.40138.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <99ECCC95524D46F6B8F00AF55B1C480C@BOBSNEWPC> Here's a whole pictorial that one of the guys in the 6-Pack Forum did on the carbon canister and Anti Run On Valve http://tinyurl.com/mftrvr Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Summers Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 2:51 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Run on valve Folks. I took off my grill to clean it up and it went back on as fast as it came off. 4 hours off, 4 hours on. I KNOW! I also was attempting to replace the radiator shroud with a Goodparts stainless steel one. I discovered the horn was way down there and the side of the shroud won't go down. No problem, just move the horn. Somehow the hose from the run on control valve got disconnected "down there somewhere". Anyone know what it attaches to and how to get to it to attach it? trsloth 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Fri Sep 11 06:55:00 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 07:55:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] PDWA Switch Message-ID: Hi Again, As I found out is common, my PDWA is leaking brake fluid (Silicone). I know the "O" rings are shot inside and should be rebuilt, but has anyone just plugged the switch opening with a 3/8" bolt? I know the warning light won't work, but does that at least solve the problem temporarily? Thanks, Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Sep 11 07:46:57 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 13:46:57 +0000 Subject: [6pack] PDWA Switch Message-ID: <424169972-1252676911-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1389831736-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Bill, The PDWA serves a couple of safety purposes that I would not bypass. If its the oring version it is real easy to rebuild by buying the 2 small o rings. If it is leaking then your 2 separate brake systems are in communication and a large fluid loss in either can result in no hydraulic brakes at all. You can get the rebuild kit or simply buy the rings from McMaster-Carr or the local hardware store if they have the right materials. See the buckeye triumph tech article on that. Lou ------Original Message------ From: Couzelis,William M. Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] PDWA Switch Sent: Sep 11, 2009 7:55 AM Hi Again, As I found out is common, my PDWA is leaking brake fluid (Silicone). I know the "O" rings are shot inside and should be rebuilt, but has anyone just plugged the switch opening with a 3/8" bolt? I know the warning light won't work, but does that at least solve the problem temporarily? Thanks, Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Sep 11 08:04:54 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 07:04:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] PDWA Switch In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFBD73B7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bill: A bolt by itself will not plug the leak. You will need some sort of thread sealant as well, or perhaps a copper washer under the head of the bolt. A straight threaded bolt, by itself, will always leak. You need pipe threads, or some other sort of setup specifically designed to seal fluids. Rebuilding the PDWA is cheap and easy, why not just fix it? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Couzelis,William M. Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 5:55 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] PDWA Switch Hi Again, As I found out is common, my PDWA is leaking brake fluid (Silicone). I know the "O" rings are shot inside and should be rebuilt, but has anyone just plugged the switch opening with a 3/8" bolt? I know the warning light won't work, but does that at least solve the problem temporarily? Thanks, Bill Couzelis From coffeycreek at yahoo.com Fri Sep 11 08:36:15 2009 From: coffeycreek at yahoo.com (mark creek) Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 07:36:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] subscription Message-ID: <684686.9984.qm@web110306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> please cancel my subscritiion mark From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Fri Sep 11 08:54:35 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 08:54:35 -0600 Subject: [6pack] subscription In-Reply-To: <684686.9984.qm@web110306.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Done! L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of mark creek Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 8:36 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] subscription please cancel my subscritiion mark 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Sep 11 10:48:34 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 11 Sep 2009 12:48:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] PDWA Switch In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFBD73B7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFBD73B7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <7E5AABA22A544895B68D0E3684AF4B07@BOBSNEWPC> After seeing how simple the PDWA is to rebuild in this Moss video http://tinyurl.com/lw6nqb I agree with Vance. Watch the video and you'll see. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 10:05 AM To: Couzelis,William M.; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] PDWA Switch Bill: A bolt by itself will not plug the leak. You will need some sort of thread sealant as well, or perhaps a copper washer under the head of the bolt. A straight threaded bolt, by itself, will always leak. You need pipe threads, or some other sort of setup specifically designed to seal fluids. Rebuilding the PDWA is cheap and easy, why not just fix it? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Couzelis,William M. Sent: Friday, September 11, 2009 5:55 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] PDWA Switch Hi Again, As I found out is common, my PDWA is leaking brake fluid (Silicone). I know the "O" rings are shot inside and should be rebuilt, but has anyone just plugged the switch opening with a 3/8" bolt? I know the warning light won't work, but does that at least solve the problem temporarily? Thanks, Bill Couzelis 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mark at bradakis.com Sun Sep 13 14:35:13 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 14:35:13 -0600 (MDT) Subject: [6pack] Whining time, Team.Net updates Message-ID: <20090913203513.474822E05F@bradakis.com> Yes, I know that as the fellow behind the curtain who keeps Team.Net on the air, I do my share of whining. But the whining here is coming from one of the disks on the server, a bearing ready to fail in a few days, a couple of weeks, maybe not until 2010. Who knows? Rather than risk a sudden failure, it would be prudent to consider getting new hardware. And that is where you come in. I didn't have an official fund drive this year, though donations have come in at random times during the year. It seems to be time for those of you who have not recently contributed to step up and assist in keeping Team.Net on the air. If you have a few dollars to spare and desire to support this endeavor, check out the web page http://www.team.net/donate.html I, and thousands of folks around the planet would appreciate it. Gee, I haven't taken an actual count of all subscribers lately, I ought to do a headcount. On a related note, I have been doing a few things, like moving a few more lists from majordomo to mailman. Back when I started doing this about 20 years ago majordomo was the hot ticket. It is a bit outdated now, mailman is much more web friendly, hopefully much easier for you folks to use. Of course, there are those who still try to use majordomo to manage their mailman subscriptions, not much I can do about that! One thing I did was change the judson list, which was intended for discussion of classic Judson superchargers to superchargers at autox.team.net, opening it up for folks to discuss other brands. Feel free to go to the mailman page, http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo to sign up if you so desire. Actually I had hoped more folks would sign up for the-local list, a place for random discussion about all sorts of stuff. Tell a joke, review a movie, report the antics of your favorite public idiot, lament the last loss of your team, whatever. If there is a list you'd like to see, chances are I'd set one up, no problem. But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive, and assist as you can: http://www.team.net/donate.html Thanks! mjb. From johncnorth at gmail.com Sun Sep 13 17:15:31 2009 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sun, 13 Sep 2009 19:15:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Whining time, Team.Net updates In-Reply-To: <20090913203513.474822E05F@bradakis.com> References: <20090913203513.474822E05F@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <49f668fe0909131615x336017b1s6ece68394f14863@mail.gmail.com> What email address do we use in PayPal? John North On Sun, Sep 13, 2009 at 4:35 PM, Mark J Bradakis wrote: > Yes, I know that as the fellow behind the curtain who > keeps Team.Net on the air, I do my share of whining. > But the whining here is coming from one of the disks > on the server, a bearing ready to fail in a few days, > a couple of weeks, maybe not until 2010. Who knows? > > Rather than risk a sudden failure, it would be prudent > to consider getting new hardware. And that is where you > come in. I didn't have an official fund drive this year, > though donations have come in at random times during the > year. It seems to be time for those of you who have not > recently contributed to step up and assist in keeping > Team.Net on the air. If you have a few dollars to spare > and desire to support this endeavor, check out the web > page http://www.team.net/donate.html I, and thousands > of folks around the planet would appreciate it. Gee, I > haven't taken an actual count of all subscribers lately, > I ought to do a headcount. > > On a related note, I have been doing a few things, like > moving a few more lists from majordomo to mailman. Back > when I started doing this about 20 years ago majordomo > was the hot ticket. It is a bit outdated now, mailman is > much more web friendly, hopefully much easier for you > folks to use. Of course, there are those who still try > to use majordomo to manage their mailman subscriptions, > not much I can do about that! > > One thing I did was change the judson list, which was > intended for discussion of classic Judson superchargers > to superchargers at autox.team.net, opening it up for folks > to discuss other brands. Feel free to go to the mailman > page, http://www.team.net/mailman/listinfo to sign up if > you so desire. > > Actually I had hoped more folks would sign up for the-local > list, a place for random discussion about all sorts of stuff. > Tell a joke, review a movie, report the antics of your favorite > public idiot, lament the last loss of your team, whatever. > > If there is a list you'd like to see, chances are I'd set one > up, no problem. > > But for now, consider this an Official Team.Net fund drive, > and assist as you can: http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Thanks! > > mjb. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Thu Sep 17 07:19:57 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 06:19:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] tr6 wheels Message-ID: <858955.63229.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> gm all 18 racing .com are selling what appear to me as the same as panasport has anyone delt with them or know of the quality i'm thinking of going with the 16's would i need spacers any help appreciated thanks ralph from ny From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Sep 17 08:46:00 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 10:46:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] tr6 wheels In-Reply-To: <858955.63229.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <858955.63229.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 17 Sep 2009, john doe wrote: > gm all 18 racing .com are selling what appear to me as the same as > panasport WHO?? Sorry - I tried putting together lots of combos of gm all 18 racing.com and came up empty. The most common Minilite replicas out there are Panasport, but there's a LOT of folks with Superlite (vtoperformance.com), Koenig (model name Rewind) and ARE even re-released the Silverstone which was pretty much the original Minilite replica back in the day. Those are all reasonable wheels although to my untrained eye the Panasport is the strongest construction of the bunch. > has anyone delt with them or know of the quality i'm thinking > of going with the 16's would i need spacers any help appreciated thanks If you go to 16's, you should not need spacers UNLESS you get something other than zero offset or perhaps up to about +12mm offset, If you do wind up with spacers, you can use spacers up to about 3/8" and still get a few threads' engagement with the lugnuts (assuming you don't get wheels with very thick castings). Any more thickness with the spacer and you MUST lengthen the studs. 16's are larger diameter than 15's (sorry for the obvious), so the "normal" interference point uf the upper a-arm becomes a non-factor. Larger positive offsets will get you into possible interference with the front sway bar (only at full steering lock) and with either / or the outer edge of the rear trailing arm and the upper bump stop "hump" on the rear inner wheel well. Assuming 16x7 rims, I'd recommend 225/60-16's for the tires. These are withing a percent or so of the original tire diameter. They're a lot wider (close to 2") than stock, but they will transform the handling. Really. > ralph from ny regards, Bob from Boston --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Sep 17 09:08:34 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:08:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] tr6 wheels In-Reply-To: References: <858955.63229.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC05BFDC6521C3-27DC-A587@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> The web site is 18racing.com. -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang To: john doe Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, Sep 17, 2009 10:46 am Subject: Re: [6pack] tr6 wheels On Thu, 17 Sep 2009, john doe wrote:? ? > gm all 18 racing .com are selling what appear to me as the same as > panasport? ? WHO??? ? Sorry - I tried putting together lots of combos of gm all 18 racing.com and came up empty.? ? The most common Minilite replicas out there are Panasport, but there's a LOT of folks with Superlite (vtoperformance.com), Koenig (model name Rewind) and ARE even re-released the Silverstone which was pretty much the original Minilite replica back in the day.? ? Those are all reasonable wheels although to my untrained eye the Panasport is the strongest construction of the bunch.? ? > has anyone delt with them or know of the quality i'm thinking > of going with the 16's would i need spacers any help appreciated thanks? ? If you go to 16's, you should not need spacers UNLESS you get something other than zero offset or perhaps up to about +12mm offset,? ? If you do wind up with spacers, you can use spacers up to about 3/8" and still get a few threads' engagement with the lugnuts (assuming you don't get wheels with very thick castings). Any more thickness with the spacer and you MUST lengthen the studs.? ? 16's are larger diameter than 15's (sorry for the obvious), so the "normal" interference point uf the upper a-arm becomes a non-factor. Larger positive offsets will get you into possible interference with the front sway bar (only at full steering lock) and with either / or the outer edge of the rear trailing arm and the upper bump stop "hump" on the rear inner wheel well.? ? Assuming 16x7 rims, I'd recommend 225/60-16's for the tires. These are withing a percent or so of the original tire diameter. They're a lot wider (close to 2") than stock, but they will transform the handling. Really.? ? > ralph from ny? ? regards,? Bob from Boston? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------? Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent? Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph!? Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489? ---------------------------------------------------------------------------? _______________________________________________? ? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? 6pack at autox.team.net? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack? ? http://www.team.net/archive? ? You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com? From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Sep 17 09:09:19 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:09:19 EDT Subject: [6pack] tr6 wheels Message-ID: In a message dated 9/17/2009 8:47:40 AM Central Daylight Time, rccpl1 at yahoo.com writes: > gm all 18 racing .com are selling what appear to me as the same as > panasport has anyone delt with them or know of the quality i'm thinking of going > with the 16's would i need spacers any help appreciated thanks ralph from ny > I was on eBay and searched "Datsun/Nissan wheels". I was surprised to find some extremely fine looking 15" wheels with vintage look and with correct bolt circle. (Offset clearance is unknown to me) .....as low as $265/set plus fastneners and $99 shipping. I'd be interested in any comments on these. Joe Alexander From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Sep 17 09:18:39 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 11:18:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] tr6 wheels In-Reply-To: <8CC05BFDC6521C3-27DC-A587@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> References: <858955.63229.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <8CC05BFDC6521C3-27DC-A587@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 17 Sep 2009 acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: > > The web site is 18racing.com. Ah - thanks. Those are Rota. Watch out for the offset. You want the smallest positive offset you can get... I see 4mm, 12mm and more. 4mm would be the preferred offset. That's about 1/4 inch. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From waltp58 at comcast.net Thu Sep 17 14:46:49 2009 From: waltp58 at comcast.net (walt) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 16:46:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] tr6 wheels In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002c01ca37d7$fa7ec9f0$6401a8c0@home> "Watch out for the offset. You want the smallest positive offset you can get... I see 4mm, 12mm and more. 4mm would be the preferred offset. That's about 1/4 inch." Does positive offset move the tire "out" (away from the hub) or vice versa? Walt '74 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Sep 17 15:29:49 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:29:49 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] tr6 wheels In-Reply-To: <002c01ca37d7$fa7ec9f0$6401a8c0@home> References: <002c01ca37d7$fa7ec9f0$6401a8c0@home> Message-ID: On Thu, 17 Sep 2009, walt wrote: > "Watch out for the offset. You want the smallest positive offset you can > get... I see 4mm, 12mm and more. 4mm would be the preferred offset. That's > about 1/4 inch." > > Does positive offset move the tire "out" (away from the hub) or vice versa? Positive offset moves the outer edge of the wheel toward the centerline of the car. All the current cars with front wheel drive use wheels with offsets in the +30 to +45 mm range. That's why we need spacers and adapters to make them work. Negative offset moves the outer edge away from the centerline of the car. > Walt > '74 TR6 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From waltp58 at comcast.net Thu Sep 17 15:51:42 2009 From: waltp58 at comcast.net (walt) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:51:42 -0400 Subject: [6pack] no weld body repair Message-ID: <000001ca37e1$0b46d080$6401a8c0@home> I need to repair the battery tray in my TR6. It has rusted through. I came across this kit at eastwood. Since I don't weld, and this isn't a critical panel (cosmetically) I thought I might try it. Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this type of thing? http://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product/view/id/501/s/ew-no-weld-panel-repai r-kit/category/12/ Walt Philipson waltp58 at comcast.net (561) 301-9197 From dc_bruin at hotmail.com Thu Sep 17 16:56:16 2009 From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 15:56:16 -0700 Subject: [6pack] no weld body repair In-Reply-To: <000001ca37e1$0b46d080$6401a8c0@home> References: <000001ca37e1$0b46d080$6401a8c0@home> Message-ID: Walt: I think this is a reasonable thing to do, but I don't know that it needs to be as complex (flanged, etc.) as this kit makes it seem. Check out this product: http://autobodystore.net/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=CTGY&Category_Code=MB over at the autobody store forum. I used it on a patch panel on the parcel shelf when I did my diff repair and have had no issues. Send an email to Len who runs the autobody site with questions about applicability, he's very knowledgeable and responsive (NFI). Dwayne > From: waltp58 at comcast.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 17:51:42 -0400 > Subject: [6pack] no weld body repair > > I need to repair the battery tray in my TR6. It has rusted through. I came > across this kit at eastwood. > > > > Since I don't weld, and this isn't a critical panel (cosmetically) I thought > I might try it. Does anyone have experience or thoughts about this type of > thing? > > > > http://www.eastwood.com/catalog/product/view/id/501/s/ew-no-weld-panel-repai > r-kit/category/12/ > > > > Walt Philipson > > waltp58 at comcast.net > > (561) 301-9197 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as dc_bruin at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Ready for Fall shows? Use Bing to find helpful ratings and reviews on digital tv's. http://www.bing.com/shopping/search?q=digital+tv's&form=MSHNCB&publ=WLHMTAG&c rea=TEXT_MSHNCB_Vertical_Shopping_DigitalTVs_1x1 From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Sep 17 19:29:05 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Thu, 17 Sep 2009 21:29:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] tr6 clutch problem Message-ID: <966EA55EEEB74E37B9D41CC36399950C@Alan> On my tr6 restoration project, the motor was rebuilt and runs fine. I installed a forenza alloy flywheel. put a new throw out bearing and sleeve. I reused a Luk pressure plate and clutch disc that I had in my other 6 that had come out when I had clutch engagement problems. That problem was cured when we took out the clutch and found that the sleeve was for a TR4, Previous to that the clutch fork had cracked. I put back in a used bork & beck. So I figured it would be ok to reuse the Luk pressure plate and disc. I guess I figured wrong , right now I am thinking the pressure plate was damaged in the other episode. unless theres something else to look at. Can't put it in gear and theres plenty of movement with the slave cylinder. Al From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Sep 18 07:59:28 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 06:59:28 -0700 Subject: [6pack] tr6 clutch problem In-Reply-To: <966EA55EEEB74E37B9D41CC36399950C@Alan> References: <966EA55EEEB74E37B9D41CC36399950C@Alan> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712DFCA1425@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Al: Any chance the fork pin let go? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Salvatore Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:29 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] tr6 clutch problem So I figured it would be ok to reuse the Luk pressure plate and disc. I guess I figured wrong , right now I am thinking the pressure plate was damaged in the other episode. unless theres something else to look at. Can't put it in gear and theres plenty of movement with the slave cylinder. Al From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Sep 18 14:00:52 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 20:00:52 GMT Subject: [6pack] tr6 clutch problem Message-ID: Al---Lot's of maybes here. First it would be good to actually measure the amount of movement of the SC pushrod. There should have a half inch to disengage the clutch. (Slightly less is necessary if you use the top [not recommended] hole in the actuating arm). Then there's the possibility of air in the hydraulic system. Be sure there is none. If everything above is in order, then not much left except to take out the tranny and look inside at the parts in the bell housing. To strengthen a weak spot in this setup, add a second pin to the fork where it goes thru the clutch operating shaft, if this is hasn't already done. I will assume that the new flywheel isn't part of the problem. (*In backwards)? Check that the crankshaft thrust washers are still in place, by levering the shaft back, then forward. I wouldn't think that the problem is in the clutch or pressure plate. If it is, it should be obvious when inspecting it. *A backwardly installed clutch disc comes to mind. It should be marked "flywheel side". Let us know. Always like to here one's solution to these things! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Al Salvatore Sent: Thursday, September 17, 2009 6:29 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] tr6 clutch problem On my tr6 restoration project, the motor was rebuilt and runs fine. I installed a forenza alloy flywheel. put a new throw out bearing and sleeve. I reused a Luk pressure plate and clutch disc that I had in my other 6 that had come out when I had clutch engagement problems. That problem was cured when we took out the clutch and found that the sleeve was for a TR4, Previous to that the clutch fork had cracked. I put back in a used bork & beck. So I figured it would be ok to reuse the Luk pressure plate and disc. I guess I figured wrong , right now I am thinking the pressure plate was damaged in the other episode. unless theres something else to look at. Can't put it in gear and theres plenty of movement with the slave cylinder. Al 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Fri Sep 18 14:30:11 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 13:30:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Clutch problem Message-ID: <646485.2737.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Al, You didn't describe the symptoms so I'll just throw out a WAG. Any chance that the clutch has rusted to the flywheel? I doubt this could happen if the flywheel is aluminum. One of our club members recently had a similar problem, replaced the clutch and then found out rust was the problem. Good luck. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Sep 18 15:02:09 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 17:02:09 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Clutch problem In-Reply-To: <646485.2737.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <646485.2737.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 18 Sep 2009, michael lunsford wrote: > Al, > > You didn't describe the symptoms so I'll just throw out a WAG. > Any > chance that the clutch has rusted to the flywheel? I doubt this could happen > if the flywheel is aluminum. One of our club members recently had a similar > problem, replaced the clutch and then found out rust was the problem. Good > luck. This _could_ happen as the clutch surface on the Fidanza flywheel is a steel insert. I replied off-list that my guess is that the clutch disk was not installed in the proper orientation. > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Sep 18 16:39:11 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 18:39:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] tr6 clutch problem References: Message-ID: Thanks to all for the responses. It took me and my friend Mike about two hours to pull the tranny out and replace the clutch and pressure plate. The Problem must have been in the pressure plate. Everything was originally installed properly. Thanks Al Salvatore From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Fri Sep 18 20:30:13 2009 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Fri, 18 Sep 2009 20:30:13 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TTA Charity Drive Update 18 Sept 2009 Message-ID: <4AB44235.8080600@triumphstagclub.org> [From BCF Triumph Forum] Updates at John's site at http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ seem to have dried up since Sept. 12th; has anyone heard anything? Or maybe he decided to just stay in Vancouver! I hope all is well. ... Yes actually John, Liz and UJ crossed the US border, traveled to Edmunds WA to spend some R&R with family. Today, Friday they drive to Vancouver WA / Portland OR area in prep for a drive Saturday with the Portland Area Triumphs. The 21st they head out of Portland, OR over to HWY 101, down to Eureka California. The 22nd, probably some crooked road driving on the Matole Road / Kings road to Bodega Bay for an overnighter. The 23rd should then be down 1A from Bodega Bay, over to Santa Rosa and Calistoga to the Silverado trail to Silver Oak and Stag Leap vineyards, Down to Napa, over to Novato or Petaluma, the Marin French Cheese farm, to Point Reyes National Seashore and Lighthouse, back over to 1A, down to Stinson Beach, maybe an overnighter before heading over the hill to 101 and up to Corte Madera on the 24th. The 24th John does a presentation for the Lions Club, then it is up to TTSCC until the 28th in Monterey where Susan and I will meet up with John, Liz and UJ. Then some Anniversary celebrations for John and Liz - 5th Wedding if you recall from the TVT a while back, then the Gran Finale Drive the 30th down HWY 1A to SLO. There will be a Gran Finale Toast at the Embassy Suites the evening of the 30th in the Hotel Lounge during the Managers reception! Be there if you can!! -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com Sat Sep 19 16:49:01 2009 From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris) Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 18:49:01 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Re-installing engine/trans rear mount w/OD Message-ID: <54A469F7-100A-4C7C-9451-A7294CF06A81@nc.rr.com> Okay, I got this here engine/tranny lump all ready to reinstall. Last time I did it about six years ago, I had a heckuva time gettin' the rear mount hardware assembled to the OD and frame in what one would call a dignified manner. (see old TRF Catalog Vol-1, p.18, Plate AG, bottom-center, #48-59, with spacers) I'm doin' this by myself, so extra pry bars, wrenches, and alignment advice are not gonna be handy. Is there a genuine, no-kiddin', sure-fired way to do this? Doug M '74 TR6 CF 18XXX OU. That's *with* OD. NC From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Sep 19 18:52:59 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 19 Sep 2009 20:52:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Re-installing engine/trans rear mount w/OD In-Reply-To: <54A469F7-100A-4C7C-9451-A7294CF06A81@nc.rr.com> References: <54A469F7-100A-4C7C-9451-A7294CF06A81@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: <4AB57CEB.8040005@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Here's a great 6-Pack forum thread on a one man tranny install http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=10047&highlight= Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org Douglas Morris wrote: > Okay, I got this here engine/tranny lump all ready to reinstall. > > Last time I did it about six years ago, I had a heckuva time gettin' > the rear mount hardware assembled to the OD and frame > in what one would call a dignified manner. > (see old TRF Catalog Vol-1, p.18, Plate AG, bottom-center, #48-59, > with spacers) > > I'm doin' this by myself, so extra pry bars, wrenches, and alignment > advice are not gonna be handy. > > Is there a genuine, no-kiddin', sure-fired way to do this? > > Doug M > '74 TR6 CF 18XXX OU. That's *with* OD. > NC > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sun Sep 20 05:54:22 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 04:54:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] short block Message-ID: <952790.9155.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> gm all anyone have a late model tr6 short block that they might want to get rid of in the lower ny area 10965 area code From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Sep 20 15:28:55 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 20 Sep 2009 14:28:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Lurching/cluinking Message-ID: <105075.78846.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I know this is a strange sounding thread but..... I have been trying to run down an annoying tendency my car has to lurch when I get off the throttle or under light constant throttle. I thought the lurching was related to the clunk but I have been unable to isolate the problem. I've checked all the U joints, replaced the differential with an LSD diff from a Q 45 and the lurch/clunk is still there. I have checked the trans mount bolts and the axle bolts on the trailing arm and they look fine. I am beginning to suspect that the problem may be related to the S-2 cam and lightened flywheel I installed during my engine rebuild. My son said lurching of this sort was a problem on Mustangs with high lift cams and that the fix was to drill a small hole in the butterfly of the carb. Any thoughts on the butterfly hole idea or any other suggestions as to the source of the problem? Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Sep 20 23:39:03 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 05:39:03 GMT Subject: [6pack] Lurching/cluinking Message-ID: Mike---An interesting set of circumstances surrounding your lurch/clunk. Not all that unusual, tho. I think the clunk is the result of accumulated tolerances in the drive train, like the kind you'll see when rotating an off-the-ground tire forward and backward. The valve overlap with the S-2, along with the lightened flywheel could amplify this surging in the engine. I had a time with this myself not long ago, but it went away before I could truly identify the source. Mine occured when running off throttle, when the rpm would slow and hit the 1500 mark and down to 1000. A slight increase in throttle, would stop this. Some SU carbs have a 1/8" hole in the throttle plate. It's about 1/4 inch up from the bottom center. Not entirely sure as to why this hole is there, but suspect it helps to hold the air valve up a little, when the throttle is otherwise closed. Some SU's have an idle circuit, so fuel gets around the throttle plate even when closed. Don't know how adding a hole to the ZS would act. You could try it as sort of a last resort, and braze it up if you don't like it. I would check to make sure your distributor weights returned to rest. If they stay flung out, the timing could stay too far advanced, at least momentarily. Squirt some WD-40 down there, and wiggle the rotor back and forth. Also check any changes made to the float levels or mixture, prior to when all this bucking started. I'd be interested in what you find, should this return to my car! Dick -----Original Message----- From: michael lunsford Sent: Sunday, September 20, 2009 2:28 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Lurching/cluinking I know this is a strange sounding thread but..... I have been trying to run down an annoying tendency my car has to lurch when I get off the throttle or under light constant throttle. I thought the lurching was related to the clunk but I have been unable to isolate the problem. I've checked all the U joints, replaced the differential with an LSD diff from a Q 45 and the lurch/clunk is still there. I have checked the trans mount bolts and the axle bolts on the trailing arm and they look fine. I am beginning to suspect that the problem may be related to the S-2 cam and lightened flywheel I installed during my engine rebuild. My son said lurching of this sort was a problem on Mustangs with high lift cams and that the fix was to drill a small hole in the butterfly of the carb. Any thoughts on the butterfly hole idea or any other suggestions as to the source of the problem? Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Sep 21 10:26:04 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 09:26:04 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Re-installing engine/trans rear mount w/OD In-Reply-To: <54A469F7-100A-4C7C-9451-A7294CF06A81@nc.rr.com> References: <54A469F7-100A-4C7C-9451-A7294CF06A81@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E1EC42BE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Doug: I agree that the rear tranny mount is pretty much a nightmare when you have an OD. This was my cross member modification that greatly eased (I didn't say made it easy, I said it was EASIER) to install the OD. Rather than the factory setup using bolts, washers and nuts with the bolts inserted from the top of the cross member, I used four j-nuts so that I could insert the frame to cross member bolts from below the car. Here is the McMaster-Carr item: http://www.mcmaster.com/#90679a200/=3q95kk. I picked mine up at the hardware store. I seem to recall enlarging the holes in the cross member slightly, to get the j-nuts to seat properly. But I am not sure, too many controlled substances imbibed in my college days, which means lots of dead and dying brain cells. So many in fact, I can't remember to put on underwear before coming to work, or I forget whether the underwear goes on the inside or the outside.... Forgot what I was saying... Oh, yeah. This made it trivial to fasten the cross member to the frame. Attaching the OD to rear mount, well that was still pretty tedious. But this change made an intolerable job at least manageable. I used thread locker to keep the bolts from backing out. Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Douglas Morris Sent: Saturday, September 19, 2009 3:49 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Re-installing engine/trans rear mount w/OD Okay, I got this here engine/tranny lump all ready to reinstall. Last time I did it about six years ago, I had a heckuva time gettin' the rear mount hardware assembled to the OD and frame in what one would call a dignified manner. (see old TRF Catalog Vol-1, p.18, Plate AG, bottom-center, #48-59, with spacers) I'm doin' this by myself, so extra pry bars, wrenches, and alignment advice are not gonna be handy. Is there a genuine, no-kiddin', sure-fired way to do this? Doug M From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Sep 21 12:40:05 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 11:40:05 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lurching/clunking In-Reply-To: <105075.78846.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <105075.78846.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E1EC4469@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mike: Drilling a hole in the butterfly is for gnarly cams that won't idle, and need to have the idle speed turned way up. On downdraft Holleys and Quadrajets, opening the butterfly valve too far to get the idle speed up activates the transition circuit, making the idle mixture rich so the car bogs when leaving a stop light. Drilling a hole allows you to back off the idle setting while keeping the idle speed decent, and thus avoid activating the transition circuit. Since there is no transition circuit in the Zeniths, you probably should look elsewhere. Are your dashpots topped off? Is your timing correct (10 BTDC with the dizzy vacuum disconnected)? Are your carb diaphragms in good condition? Are your air valves moving up and down freely, with no binding? If all of these are correct, here is my suggestion - is your carbon canister still connected? If so, you have a vacuum leak. The factory cam creates enough idle vacuum that the air flow from the canister is well tolerated. But with a larger cam, vacuum drops and the engine will not tolerate the vacuum leak from the canister. Try plugging the larger hose between the canister and the carbs at the *canister* end. You will probably need to reset the idle speed. If that helps, you can fabricate a restrictor to fit in the hose to reduce the vacuum leak. That has worked very well for me with my 270 degree cam, and leaves the emissions systems operative (we get EPA tested here in Oregon). I do not recommend simply plugging the hose permanently. Don't forget to reset your mixture. The loss of air from the canister will cause your mixture to go slightly rich, so you will need to lean it to get it back to the correct ratio. BTW, using the "lift the slide" test to set your mixture is invalid if you have cammed your engine. You *MUST* use a Color Tune, O2 sensor, or plug color to set the mixture with any sort of road cam. The lower engine vacuum invalidates the results of the lift the slide test, and will give you (most likely) a rich mixture. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Subject: [6pack] Lurching/clunking I have been trying to run down an annoying tendency my car has to lurch when I get off the throttle or under light constant throttle. I am beginning to suspect that the problem may be related to the S-2 cam and lightened flywheel I installed during my engine rebuild. My son said lurching of this sort was a problem on Mustangs with high lift cams and that the fix was to drill a small hole in the butterfly of the carb. Any thoughts on the butterfly hole idea or any other suggestions as to the source of the problem? Mike Lunsford From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Sep 21 12:59:32 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 11:59:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Eat your heart out, ladies! Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E1EC44A7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Great weekend here in the Pacific Northwest. Had the TR6 out all weekend, in truly perfect weather. Warm sun, cool air, trees with a hint of color, and the purr of the TR6. Ran flawlessly, with a few admiring stares at stop lights. Gotta get the last bit of driving in before the monsoons get here in another couple of weeks =:-(. For now, eat your hearts out while I live the life of Riley. Lord knows in a couple of weeks it will be life in hell for sports car drivers in Portland. Gloating while I can, Vance Vance Navarrette [cid:232555518 at 21092009-24AD] DefMet Dirt Devils Send Vance a page Desk: (503)613-3557 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of TR6_final.jpg] From Jltr6 at aol.com Mon Sep 21 17:59:32 2009 From: Jltr6 at aol.com (Jltr6 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 19:59:32 EDT Subject: [6pack] short block Message-ID: I have a complete engine that's been sitting in my garage for a few years. Not sure of the year but I bought it for the J-Type OD Trans that was attached. I don't know anything about the condition, but the seller told me it was running when he pulled it. I'm located in Northern, NJ. Contact me off list if you have any interest. Jim Lynch From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Sep 21 19:38:14 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 21 Sep 2009 20:38:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] a little help needed Message-ID: <962FF5C4236A4B91A775D98C65E7898F@ranteer.local> hi. i've got two hood pieces (from a 52 TD) that are currently in San Jose. I have several friends attending the convention in SLO. Would anyone have room in their SUV or trailer mind making a quick stop in San Jose and taking the parts to convention so they can be picked up? thanks. please contact me off list. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Sep 22 11:38:43 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:38:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Eastwood Spring Compressor Message-ID: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> I know that external spring compressors usually don't work on our cars (TR6 for me) but Eastwood has an internal compressor http://tinyurl.com/myxohv that looks like it might work..... And it's cheaper than the Moss unit. They also have this external one http://tinyurl.com/kut2rj but I guess you'd run into the same space issue that most external ones have. What do you think? Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Sep 22 11:51:34 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 13:51:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Eastwood Spring Compressor In-Reply-To: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> References: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: Let's see - $40 plus shipping vs. $5 plus 10 min of your time (to make your own spring compressor). Seems about even. :-) Seriously, I'd be concerned that the extended length would allow you to mount the thing like we need to do (on the top of the upper spring perch).... If the tool isn't long enough, you'd have to try catching the spring itself and there's not much space around the spring in the upper spring perch on the TR6 front end. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2009 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Sep 22 11:56:32 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:56:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Eastwood Spring Compressor In-Reply-To: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> References: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72F33117603F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I would pay the extra and get the Moss compressor or just make my own or better still borrow one - how many TR6 spring compressors does a planet need anyway ?. The nice thing about the Moss unit is that it attaches securely to the lower shock mounting studs on the spring pan so it is not going to slip and it also has just the washer and nut on the top where you don't have a lot of room or large contact area. I would wonder if those wide appendages on the Eastwood device would not foul on something top and bottom and I would also want to know how long it is to make sure it could span the fully expanded spring length. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Tuesday, September 22, 2009 1:39 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Eastwood Spring Compressor I know that external spring compressors usually don't work on our cars (TR6 for me) but Eastwood has an internal compressor http://tinyurl.com/myxohv that looks like it might work..... And it's cheaper than the Moss unit. They also have this external one http://tinyurl.com/kut2rj but I guess you'd run into the same space issue that most external ones have. What do you think? Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From JGibbs at technimark.com Tue Sep 22 12:07:57 2009 From: JGibbs at technimark.com (Jim Gibbs) Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 14:07:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 272 Message-ID: <993423612@mail.technimark.com> I will be out of the office from Tuesday (9/21) through Thursday (9/23) with limited access to email. I will reply to your email upon my return. Thanks, Jim Gibbs From mark at bradakis.com Tue Sep 22 17:14:45 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 17:14:45 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Eastwood Spring Compressor In-Reply-To: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> References: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <4AB95A65.9030204@bradakis.com> How do you propose to get the arms inside the spring where they need to be? No problem when the spring is already out on the bench, but what sort of clearance is needed with the spring in place on the car, as you remove or install it? mjb. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Sep 22 18:35:45 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 20:35:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Eastwood Spring Compressor In-Reply-To: References: <26B4C5F07F414450B0D2D564230341B7@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <2214A0F5F0EE4A0F8565E777C00B8B28@BOBSNEWPC> Wow.... Tough crowd ;-) <~~~~that's a wink for the emoticon impaired :-) I should have prefaced my post by saying that I have a homemade spring compressor using 3/8" Acme threaded rod & nuts and 3/16" steel plate. Someone on the List told me long ago to only use Acme threaded rod due to the cut of the thread and the subsequent holding power. But I bet most guys grab generic rod not knowing the risk. My intent with the post was to see if anyone thought these compressors would work as an alternative to Moss or TRF. Some guys prefer to buy ready made........ It sounds like we're better off making or using the Moss/TRF type product. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From levilevi at comcast.net Tue Sep 22 23:43:29 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Tue, 22 Sep 2009 23:43:29 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Re-installing engine/trans rear mount w/OD In-Reply-To: <54A469F7-100A-4C7C-9451-A7294CF06A81@nc.rr.com> References: <54A469F7-100A-4C7C-9451-A7294CF06A81@nc.rr.com> Message-ID: <352FE2D1-906B-4096-BD90-4EBEBD35AC24@comcast.net> Doug, Don't know about the right technique for installing the engine/tranny lump. But one thing I'm certain you want to do now and not later is install this ground cable (Moss # 736-270 Cable Assembly, negative to earth ) especially if you ever intend to in the future. This is the stock round braided ground cable. On a whim I decided that I'd change to the round cable versus the flat cable I had on there. Big Mistake...with the engine and tranny in the car. It took me literally hours to even figure out how I was going to be able to place my hands so that I could twist a wrench on the right engine/tranny bolt and nut (of which I tried multiple combinations of sockets and extensions and etc.)..and then twist it (using a torque wrench) back the other way so that it was tight enough because after all this is an engine/tranny bolt. Because of the placement of the grommets on the cable there's little choice of engine/tranny bolts to use. I've turned a lot of wrenches on my car but this was by far the most challenging and time consuming thing I've ever encountered. I'm almost embarrassed to cop to that one. Don't let it happen to you...put the stock ground cable on BEFORE you install the engine/ tranny. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Sep 19, 2009, at 4:49 PM, Douglas Morris wrote: > Okay, I got this here engine/tranny lump all ready to reinstall. > > Last time I did it about six years ago, I had a heckuva time gettin' > the rear mount hardware assembled to the OD and frame > in what one would call a dignified manner. > (see old TRF Catalog Vol-1, p.18, Plate AG, bottom-center, #48-59, > with spacers) > > I'm doin' this by myself, so extra pry bars, wrenches, and alignment > advice are not gonna be handy. > > Is there a genuine, no-kiddin', sure-fired way to do this? > > Doug M > '74 TR6 CF 18XXX OU. That's *with* OD. > NC > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From ms6453 at optonline.net Wed Sep 23 10:58:21 2009 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 12:58:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Yoko Avid H4S Feedback Message-ID: <71818EEDEECC4C648D83DCEFF04A6356@marcydesk> Hi All, Looking for feedback on Yokohama Avid H4s 215/65r15. Any one using these? _______ Mitch From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Sep 23 11:29:09 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 10:29:09 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Yoko Avid H4S Feedback In-Reply-To: <71818EEDEECC4C648D83DCEFF04A6356@marcydesk> References: <71818EEDEECC4C648D83DCEFF04A6356@marcydesk> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E1EC5009@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mitch: I am using the 205/70-R15 size. Great performance (admittedly I seldom drive when it is wet or snowy). I think the important thing is that I use stock steel wheels, and there is no rubbing or compatibility issues for the suspension. It is less clear that the 215 width tires will avoid interference, but some members seem to be happy with that size. If you are using non-stock wheels, all bets are off because of offset and/or width differences. Also, I had to get a spare because when I purchased my car the spare was missing completely. The 205 width tire is a bit wide to fit in the spare tire well comfortably, although a bit of maneuvering will get it in there. A tire that is 10mm wider than mine would probably not fit at all without trimming the liner boards, and even then your tire cover will not seat properly. My cover is marginal (the latch does not function because the cover cannot seat fully) but that is a minor complaint. If you opt for leaving the spare at the stock size, you may have drivability problems if the new tires and your spare differ in rolling diameter very much, should you ever use the spare. If you are running a LSD differential, you can overheat it severely by running different size tires on the rear, and running different size tires on the front will adversely affect handling. I suppose if all you did was limp to the nearest tire center to get your flat repaired, you would be fine. Just my $0.000002 worth Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mitch Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 9:58 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Yoko Avid H4S Feedback Hi All, Looking for feedback on Yokohama Avid H4s 215/65r15. Any one using these? _______ Mitch From JGibbs at technimark.com Wed Sep 23 12:09:31 2009 From: JGibbs at technimark.com (Jim Gibbs) Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 14:09:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 273 Message-ID: <993489199@mail.technimark.com> I will be out of the office from Tuesday (9/21) through Thursday (9/23) with limited access to email. I will reply to your email upon my return. Thanks, Jim Gibbs From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Sep 23 13:13:59 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 14:13:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Yoko Avid H4S Feedback References: <71818EEDEECC4C648D83DCEFF04A6356@marcydesk> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E1EC5009@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: 215/60 R15 94V ES100 yokohama work just fine ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "Mitch" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, September 23, 2009 12:29 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Yoko Avid H4S Feedback > Mitch: > > I am using the 205/70-R15 size. Great performance (admittedly I seldom > drive > when it is wet or snowy). I think the important thing is that I use stock > steel wheels, and there is no rubbing or compatibility issues for the > suspension. It is less clear that the 215 width tires will avoid > interference, > but some members seem to be happy with that size. If you are using > non-stock > wheels, all bets are off because of offset and/or width differences. > Also, I had to get a spare because when I purchased my car the spare was > missing completely. The 205 width tire is a bit wide to fit in the spare > tire > well comfortably, although a bit of maneuvering will get it in there. A > tire > that is 10mm wider than mine would probably not fit at all without > trimming > the liner boards, and even then your tire cover will not seat properly. My > cover is marginal (the latch does not function because the cover cannot > seat > fully) but that is a minor complaint. > If you opt for leaving the spare at the stock size, you may have > drivability > problems if the new tires and your spare differ in rolling diameter very > much, > should you ever use the spare. If you are running a LSD differential, you > can > overheat it severely by running different size tires on the rear, and > running > different size tires on the front will adversely affect handling. I > suppose if > all you did was limp to the nearest tire center to get your flat repaired, > you > would be fine. From ms6453 at optonline.net Wed Sep 23 21:43:13 2009 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Wed, 23 Sep 2009 23:43:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Yoko Avid H4S Feedback In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E1EC5009@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <71818EEDEECC4C648D83DCEFF04A6356@marcydesk> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E1EC5009@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <4ABAEAD1.8070204@optonline.net> Thanks guys, As usual, great information. I've been using Pirelli P6000's on Panasport 15x7 rims for the past 8 years with great success. Unfortunately the P6000 series I have are no longer available & 65 series tires are becoming limited. The best compromise I could find on TireRack were the Yoko's. I have been using 205/65R15 in the front with 215/65R15 in the rear. The 7" rim spreads the tire & really controls sidewall "roll", so even 65's handle well. If I drop to 60 series a whole world of better choices open up but I want the tire to fill the wheel arch. When I move up to 16" rims ( one day) the 60's would look better. Vance your absolutely correct about the spare. I keep promising to get a proper diameter donut but never seem to get around to it. Glenn, if I have half the success you've had I'll be one happy camper. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From JGibbs at technimark.com Thu Sep 24 12:10:25 2009 From: JGibbs at technimark.com (Jim Gibbs) Date: Thu, 24 Sep 2009 14:10:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 274 Message-ID: <993554764@mail.technimark.com> I will be out of the office from Tuesday (9/21) through Thursday (9/23) with limited access to email. I will reply to your email upon my return. Thanks, Jim Gibbs From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Sep 25 22:31:46 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Sep 2009 00:31:46 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 2009 British Invasion Pics Message-ID: <8CC0C796410667E-8138-AE6C@webmail-m008.sysops.aol.com> Hi All, Here are some pics from this past weekend of the 2009 British Invasion.? Pictures can be found at: triumphowners.com/108 Enjoy, Aaron 1971 Triumph TR6 2002 MINI Cooper S From lang at isis.mit.edu Sun Sep 27 16:14:37 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 18:14:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS Message-ID: FLASH Sam Halkias just won E Production at the SCCA Runoffs at Road America. Taking the lead during lap 4, Sam walked off to a significant win in the rain-shortened race. Congratualtions, Sam. You are awesome! The race was broadcast live on the internet on speedcasttv.com Speedcast will have the race in its entirety available for on-demand viewing in a couple of weeks. Folks, this was an awesome race and it is SO KOOL that Sam finally got the top spot on the podium. Personally, I cannot tell you how psyched I am to report this. A-W-E-S-O-M-E Triumph RULES!!! rml Bob Lang New England Triumphs From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Sep 27 23:18:00 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 22:18:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS References: Message-ID: <004c01ca3ffb$0cf1e100$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> http://www.scca.com/newsarticle.aspx?hub=1&news=3786# Congratulations! Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert M. Lang" To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: Sent: Sunday, September 27, 2009 3:14 PM Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS > FLASH > > > Sam Halkias just won E Production at the SCCA Runoffs at Road America. > > Taking the lead during lap 4, Sam walked off to a significant win in the > rain-shortened race. > > Congratualtions, Sam. You are awesome! > > The race was broadcast live on the internet on speedcasttv.com > > Speedcast will have the race in its entirety available for on-demand > viewing in a couple of weeks. > > Folks, this was an awesome race and it is SO KOOL that Sam finally got the > top spot on the podium. > > Personally, I cannot tell you how psyched I am to report this. > > A-W-E-S-O-M-E > > Triumph RULES!!! E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13350 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Sep 27 21:24:47 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 23:24:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] British Invasion at Stowe Message-ID: I take way too many pictures but I've finally updated my site with two videos and hundreds of pictures from The British Invasion at Stowe VT . If you got the Internet bandwidth............... have fun! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jsnable at mac.com Sun Sep 27 23:38:59 2009 From: jsnable at mac.com (Jay Snable) Date: Sun, 27 Sep 2009 22:38:59 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Free TR6 block - SF Bay Area Message-ID: <7C634BF7-B5A8-46F0-80EF-ACA9599660A8@mac.com> Hi all, I have been cleaning up the garage and the crate holding my original block has caught my eye. I bought my car non-operational, due to the cam being frozen. I got it out, but went with a NOS block rather than getting the old one line-bored (this was 17 years ago and blocks were cheaper than the machine work). I'm sure it also needs other work, but would be happy if someone located nearby could put it to good use. PM me at jls2004 at mac.com if interested... Jay '73 TR6 From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 28 10:47:05 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 12:47:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC0E7271BA2849-18D8-20022@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> Attention to detail.....and Sam put on rain tires at the last moment. We knew something special was going to happen when?Sam moved up five places in the first lap Prather dove into the pits for tires and he finished a credible 6th...of course lamenting the decision about dry tires. Watching Sam's unbridled joy on the PODIUM was worth the trip to Road America, by itself. Joe Alexander -----Original Message----- From: Robert M. Lang To: fot at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: net at lists/mv.net Sent: Sun, Sep 27, 2009 5:14 pm Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS FLASH? ? Sam Halkias just won E Production at the SCCA Runoffs at Road America.? ? Taking the lead during lap 4, Sam walked off to a significant win in the rain-shortened race.? ? Congratualtions, Sam. You are awesome!? ? The race was broadcast live on the internet on speedcasttv.com? ? Speedcast will have the race in its entirety available for on-demand viewing in a couple of weeks.? ? Folks, this was an awesome race and it is SO KOOL that Sam finally got the top spot on the podium.? ? Personally, I cannot tell you how psyched I am to report this.? ? A-W-E-S-O-M-E? ? Triumph RULES!!!? ? rml? Bob Lang? New England Triumphs? _______________________________________________? ? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? 6pack at autox.team.net? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack? ? http://www.team.net/archive? ? You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com? From fasttrs at mindspring.com Mon Sep 28 10:56:26 2009 From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson) Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 11:56:26 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS Message-ID: <18384877.1254156986865.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Joe, I hope you got pictures. Mike -----Original Message----- >From: n197tr4 at cs.com >Sent: Sep 28, 2009 11:47 AM >To: 6pack at autox.team.net >Cc: net at lists, mv.net at unspecified-domain >Subject: Re: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS > >Attention to detail.....and Sam put on rain tires at the last moment. > >We knew something special was going to happen when?Sam moved up five places in the first lap > >Prather dove into the pits for tires and he finished a credible 6th...of course lamenting the decision about dry tires. > > >Watching Sam's unbridled joy on the PODIUM was worth the trip to Road America, by itself. > > > >Joe Alexander > >-----Original Message----- >From: Robert M. Lang >To: fot at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net >Cc: net at lists/mv.net >Sent: Sun, Sep 27, 2009 5:14 pm >Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS > > > >FLASH? >? >Sam Halkias just won E Production at the SCCA Runoffs at Road America.? >? >Taking the lead during lap 4, Sam walked off to a significant win in the rain-shortened race.? >? >Congratualtions, Sam. You are awesome!? >? >The race was broadcast live on the internet on speedcasttv.com? >? >Speedcast will have the race in its entirety available for on-demand viewing in a couple of weeks.? >? >Folks, this was an awesome race and it is SO KOOL that Sam finally got the top spot on the podium.? >? >Personally, I cannot tell you how psyched I am to report this.? >? >A-W-E-S-O-M-E? >? >Triumph RULES!!!? >? >rml? >Bob Lang? >New England Triumphs? >_______________________________________________? >? >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? >? >6pack at autox.team.net? >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack? >? >http://www.team.net/archive? >? >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com? >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as fasttrs at mindspring.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Sep 28 11:04:14 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 13:04:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS In-Reply-To: <18384877.1254156986865.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <18384877.1254156986865.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <8CC0E74D73E6DE6-18D8-20404@webmail-d068.sysops.aol.com> I have some pictures in the paddock and at the podium. It was extremely hard to photograph a highly animated Sam Halkias...?? :-) -----Original Message----- From: Mike Munson To: n197tr4 at cs.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: net at lists; mv.net at unspecified-domain Sent: Mon, Sep 28, 2009 11:56 am Subject: Re: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS Joe, I hope you got pictures. Mike -----Original Message----- >From: n197tr4 at cs.com >Sent: Sep 28, 2009 11:47 AM >To: 6pack at autox.team.net >Cc: net at lists, mv.net at unspecified-domain >Subject: Re: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS > >Attention to detail.....and Sam put on rain tires at the last moment. > >We knew something special was going to happen when?Sam moved up five places in the first lap > >Prather dove into the pits for tires and he finished a credible 6th...of course lamenting the decision about dry tires. > > >Watching Sam's unbridled joy on the PODIUM was worth the trip to Road America, by itself. > > > >Joe Alexander > >-----Original Message----- >From: Robert M. Lang >To: fot at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net >Cc: net at lists/mv.net >Sent: Sun, Sep 27, 2009 5:14 pm >Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS > > > >FLASH? >? >Sam Halkias just won E Production at the SCCA Runoffs at Road America.? >? >Taking the lead during lap 4, Sam walked off to a significant win in the rain-shortened race.? >? >Congratualtions, Sam. You are awesome!? >? >The race was broadcast live on the internet on speedcasttv.com? >? >Speedcast will have the race in its entirety available for on-demand viewing in a couple of weeks.? >? >Folks, this was an awesome race and it is SO KOOL that Sam finally got the top spot on the podium.? >? >Personally, I cannot tell you how psyched I am to report this.? >? >A-W-E-S-O-M-E? >? >Triumph RULES!!!? >? >rml? >Bob Lang? >New England Triumphs? >_______________________________________________? >? >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? >? >6pack at autox.team.net? >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack? >? >http://www.team.net/archive? >? >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com? >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as fasttrs at mindspring.com From george_loriot at hotmail.com Mon Sep 28 17:53:23 2009 From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot) Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 19:53:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] carb float settings? Message-ID: Listers, I'm going mad. Mad I say. My mostly stock 76 TR6 has a bad case of stuttering on acceleration. Almost any kind of acceleration, it stutters, sometimes backfires at carbs, has popping noises at the exhaust on deceleration. It starts fine, idles fine, then gets bad as it warms up. When cold, it behaves itself but quickly gets bad as the engine warms up. And - it's not always this way. Sometimes is runs just fine for a few minutes, then goes bad. I've got the timing at 12 BTDC, vacuum retartd disconnected and plugged. I can usually make it driveable by puching t he timing to about 25 BTDC (!) but it still sounds like it's either missing or sputtering. And often the carb bores are very wet with gas. So I went around and around going between carb and ignition. I may have to enter an institute for the criminally insane. In all of this, after every turn, the manifold vacuum at idle is a fairly steady 17 mmHg. That sounds good, doesn't it? Here's what makes no difference, in no particular order: ignition: swap plugs, wires, cap, rotor, points/condensor, coil I eve ntried changing the distributor/oil pump drive gear by a tooth (no fun to ensure that the oil pump is propely located). I did notice somthing odd here - the rotor position, just as the points break, is about 10 degrees before the rotor aligns with the #1 stake on the dist cap. So advancing the ignition brings it closer but then the timing is, well, advanced and it still sputters a little. Also I have a few caps and rotors but only one combo really makes it work ok. That sounds weird and I wonder if anyone else has had such a sensitive cap/rotor combination. .....and still more that makes no difference: carb: ended up rebuilding the carbs - pretty much everything including throttle bypass valves (not temp compensators), diaphrams, floats, needle/seat (regular, not Grosse) spindle seals, etc. Still the same problem. What could it be? I'm wondering about the float height. I used 16 mm for the distance from float bowl to highest part of float. At that time the floats are not level but the setting is to spec I think. 16 mm is about 5/8" is that ok? I'm suspicious because of the wet carb bores after a run. Is it worth a shot to increase that distance and thereby lower the gas level in the bowl? Or has anyone had this problem before? I apprecaite in advance any help from the wisdom of the list. George Loriot1976 TR5 _________________________________________________________________ Lauren found her dream laptop. Find the PC thats right for you. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/choosepc/?ocid=ftp_val_wl_290 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Sep 28 20:45:14 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 28 Sep 2009 22:45:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: carb float settings? Message-ID: <5045E95E5FB34207AF74D236623A51A1@BOBSNEWPC> Let me try again and hope it doesn't bounce due to "length"!!!!!! George, That's sounds like my car from a few years ago that ultimately drove me to install Throttle Body Injection! Before you go nuts tearing the carbs about again, go for a ride and after it starts backfiring, stuttering etc, pop the hood and give your coil a feel. I found that mine got so hot that you could barely touch it.......it may be a coil that's failing. Aren't most carb problems electrical anyway? ;-) Your car should have a ballast wire and the appropriate coil to go with it. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Sep 29 00:45:56 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 06:45:56 GMT Subject: [6pack] carb float settings? Message-ID: George---There's a part of your post that sounds like it could be the problem: the part about the rotor being about 10 deg. away from the #1 tower as the points break. IF...you are writing that it's the leading or trailing edge of the (brass) rotor tip that's this far away, then you'll want to find a tooth on the bevel gear that puts the rotor closer to dead center when the points break. (Yes, you'll get to play with the oil pump dog registration again) It sounds like the spark is trying to jump to a cap terminal out of phase with proper timing, thus the sputter and backfire. (Advancing the timing by turning the dist. body doesn't do much, as when you do this, it also opens the points sooner and cancels out the move). Try the above. Sanity guaranteed! Dick From n197tr4 at cs.com Tue Sep 29 05:43:23 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 07:43:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS In-Reply-To: <002c01ca40c0$fe7c2dd0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> References: <001a01ca405e$53af6eb0$57033f45@your55e5f9e3d2> <002c01ca40c0$fe7c2dd0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> Message-ID: <8CC0F112F8652A9-56E0-24B78@webmail-d001.sysops.aol.com> And you are the JEDI KNIGHT! -----Original Message----- From: MORDY DUNST To: fot at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Sep 28, 2009 11:54 pm Subject: Re: [Fot] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS Now my son has some motivation to get his TR6 together and be that "Padewan Lerner".? Mordy? ? M.N.Dunst? Gasket Works USA, LLC? www.Headgasket.com? 626.358.1616 ph? 626.628.3777 fx? ? Triple R Munitions, Inc.? Class 6 Certified F.F.L.? 626.201.9471? GMT -8 Pacific? ? _______________________________________________? ? Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html? ? http://www.fot-racing.com? ? You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com? ? Fot at autox.team.net? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot? ? From triosan at gmail.com Tue Sep 29 08:18:16 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 07:18:16 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] TRIUMPH RULES EP AT SCCA RUNOFFS In-Reply-To: <002c01ca40c0$fe7c2dd0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> References: <001a01ca405e$53af6eb0$57033f45@your55e5f9e3d2> <002c01ca40c0$fe7c2dd0$2502a8c0@hp2572664f9a91> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0909290718s6887723et6ec79cdf7d0d6a37@mail.gmail.com> Just On Mon, Sep 28, 2009 at 9:54 PM, MORDY DUNST wrote: > Now my son has some motivation to get his TR6 together and be that "Padewan > Lerner". Great job Sam -- did not know you had spent so much time up here in the Pacific Northwest where a dry track is a blessing. Mordy, Be sure you know where you want to run it -- no way Sam's TR6 could run in Vintage. Kas would have loved the TVR independent rear end or the 4 wheel vented disks, fender flairs, larger diameter and width tires, 5 speed tranny [and the triple webers and Lord knows what else]. My '69 TR6 is built to the '69 GCR's -- does not even have an air dam. Not knocking you Sam, just pointing out it is not a TR6 as we knew them -- but then I doubt that any of the Miata's in the race resemble their street/showroom stock brethren. It is hard enough keeping my car running --cannot imagine how much work it takes to make that championship car running in top form. Chuck > Mordy > > M.N.Dunst > Gasket Works USA, LLC > www.Headgasket.com > 626.358.1616 ph > 626.628.3777 fx > > Triple R Munitions, Inc. > Class 6 Certified F.F.L. > 626.201.9471 > GMT -8 Pacific > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > -- Chuck Arnold From mowog73 at sympatico.ca Tue Sep 29 09:12:16 2009 From: mowog73 at sympatico.ca (Mark Jones) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 11:12:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] =?windows-1252?q?Going_to_look_at_a_TR250_=96_ballpark_va?= =?windows-1252?q?lue_please=2E?= Message-ID: Hi Everyone; I have been a long-time admirer of the TR250, but I am not new to Triumphs and lbcs in general. I have a 73 MGBGT, which has been a rolling restoration for the past 12 years. I have also owned a 80 Spitfire for 7 years, which I did a complete restoration on two winters ago (lots of new panels). And over the past year my step-son and I have been restoring a 76 TR7 for him. For years I have been telling my wife that I would trade both the MGBGT and the Spitfire for a TR250. Well my chance to obtain one may have arrived. Just recently a TR250 has come up for sale local to me. My wife knows that I have always wanted a TR250 and has given her blessing to go look and buy if it is worth restoring. The car is described in the ad as restoration project or for parts. Body is in good shape. An email from the seller stated: The car is complete , it has not run in many years, interior, bumpers, and lights are off the car. This is my wifes car and her Dad was working on it years ago. The car has been in a garage for 17yrs that I know of. Any areas of the car I should look at in particular in terms of assessing the shape of the car? Are there pieces that are next to impossible to get and that I should look to see if they are there with the car? Did many of these cars come with OD? Anything else I should know about these cars? Im hoping to go see the car in the next couple of days. Assuming that the body is okay; not requiring major panel restoration, and the frame is not in need of major reconstruction, what would a car like this be worth? I know its hard to place a value from the information I have, but I dont have a sense for what a TR250 in need of complete restoration is worth but would like to have a range before going to see it. My thought is that this a $1000+/- car. The guy's price is: "make an offer". Maybe I'll put $500 in my pocket and see what happens. All comments and advise are welcome. Mark From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Tue Sep 29 17:02:10 2009 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:02:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly Message-ID: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF 619580 or Moss 802-275. Jerry From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Sep 29 17:03:42 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:03:42 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly In-Reply-To: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> References: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> Message-ID: > Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as > substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF > 619580 or Moss 802-275. > Jerry Do you want to elaborate? The stock piece wasn't made from cast-iron (e.g. it was pretty wimpy). rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Sep 29 17:16:42 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 23:16:42 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly In-Reply-To: References: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72F331D04BFE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> The original unit wasn't too bad, the repro ones I have tried are rubbish. If you cant refurb your original (degrease, media blast, paint) then I would go to eBay and try and find a good used one and refurb that before I wasted my time and money on the repro latches. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert M. Lang Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 7:04 PM To: Jerry C Shaw Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly > Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as > substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF > 619580 or Moss 802-275. > Jerry Do you want to elaborate? The stock piece wasn't made from cast-iron (e.g. it was pretty wimpy). rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Tue Sep 29 17:40:38 2009 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:40:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly References: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> Message-ID: <73EDA252D4F64FAFB9F7203226ED5509@Jerry2> The safety catch bends easily, and pops the tack welds. Looking for something better. jcs ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert M. Lang" To: "Jerry C Shaw" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 7:03 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly >> Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big >> Three as >> substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF >> 619580 or Moss 802-275. >> Jerry > > Do you want to elaborate? > > The stock piece wasn't made from cast-iron (e.g. it was pretty wimpy). > > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > 2009 NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Sep 29 17:55:10 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:55:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly In-Reply-To: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> References: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> Message-ID: <8CC0F7769F6238A-3B68-6185@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> Probably not the idea you are looking for but mine broke off right after I bought it.? I have just lived without it since, about 5 years.? Considering the way that the hood/bonnet opens you dont need the catch anyways. -----Original Message----- From: Jerry C Shaw To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 29, 2009 7:02 pm Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF 619580 or Moss 802-275. Jerry 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Tue Sep 29 18:00:09 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 17:00:09 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72F331D04BFE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <214B1160550D44C4B759B6994240F612@Jerry2> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72F331D04BFE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <701015.18877.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I haven't looked back since installing one of the passenger foot well 'direct pull' contraptions. Kendall ________________________________ From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 4:16:42 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly The original unit wasn't too bad, the repro ones I have tried are rubbish. If you cant refurb your original (degrease, media blast, paint) then I would go to eBay and try and find a good used one and refurb that before I wasted my time and money on the repro latches. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert M. Lang Sent: Tuesday, September 29, 2009 7:04 PM To: Jerry C Shaw Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly > Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as > substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF > 619580 or Moss 802-275. > Jerry Do you want to elaborate? The stock piece wasn't made from cast-iron (e.g. it was pretty wimpy). rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Sep 29 18:09:57 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 00:09:57 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly Message-ID: <1943201630-1254269478-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1721373216-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Ditto, mine resembles that remark. Lou ------Original Message------ From: acekraut11 at aol.com Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com To: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly Sent: Sep 29, 2009 6:55 PM Probably not the idea you are looking for but mine broke off right after I bought it.? I have just lived without it since, about 5 years.? Considering the way that the hood/bonnet opens you dont need the catch anyways. -----Original Message----- From: Jerry C Shaw To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 29, 2009 7:02 pm Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF 619580 or Moss 802-275. Jerry 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From shawn.loseke at gmail.com Tue Sep 29 19:03:03 2009 From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 19:03:03 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly In-Reply-To: <1943201630-1254269478-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1721373216-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1943201630-1254269478-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1721373216-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0909291803h3675ce15k8e5b2cd6141bcc93@mail.gmail.com> The catch actually serves a good puprose which makes getting a good one, or at least one as good as an original a good idea. In the event of a front end collision, it holds the rear of the bonnet down. Without it, the bonnet can release from latch and come through the windscreen. Its more than a secondary catch to keep the bonnet from rising under normal circumstances. I've witnessed its effectiveness first hand in just such a situation. It really is a safety device, which makes it all the more dissapointing that the reproductions are not up to the task of normal use, let alone an emergency use. Shawn On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 6:09 PM, wrote: > Ditto, mine resembles that remark. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: acekraut11 at aol.com > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com > To: TR-6 list > Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly > Sent: Sep 29, 2009 6:55 PM > > Probably not the idea you are looking for but mine broke off right after I bought it.? I have just lived without it since, about 5 years.? Considering the way that the hood/bonnet opens you dont need the catch anyways. > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jerry C Shaw > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Sep 29, 2009 7:02 pm > Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly > > > > > > > > > > > Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as > substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF > 619580 or Moss 802-275. > Jerry > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Sep 29 19:09:59 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 29 Sep 2009 21:09:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly In-Reply-To: <3ea26c6b0909291803h3675ce15k8e5b2cd6141bcc93@mail.gmail.com> References: <1943201630-1254269478-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1721373216-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <3ea26c6b0909291803h3675ce15k8e5b2cd6141bcc93@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CC0F81DDAC7EFB-3B68-712E@webmail-d094.sysops.aol.com> I agree Shawn.? I wish mine had held up.? Unfortunately it did not and it didnt take much for it to fail.? I am hoping in case of a crash that the latch will remain attached.? I am not confident that if the catch was still attached that it would be strong enough to stop the hood from sliding backwards.? My guess is that in an accident it wouldnt be much use for that purpose at all.? I hope I am wrong and have no empirical evidence but that would be my guess. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: shawn loseke To: TR-6 list <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tue, Sep 29, 2009 9:03 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly The catch actually serves a good puprose which makes getting a good one, or at least one as good as an original a good idea. In the event of a front end collision, it holds the rear of the bonnet down. Without it, the bonnet can release from latch and come through the windscreen. Its more than a secondary catch to keep the bonnet from rising under normal circumstances. I've witnessed its effectiveness first hand in just such a situation. It really is a safety device, which makes it all the more dissapointing that the reproductions are not up to the task of normal use, let alone an emergency use. Shawn On Tue, Sep 29, 2009 at 6:09 PM, wrote: > Ditto, mine resembles that remark. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: acekraut11 at aol.com > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com > To: TR-6 list > Subject: Re: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly > Sent: Sep 29, 2009 6:55 PM > > Probably not the idea you are looking for but mine broke off right after I bought it.? I have just lived without it since, about 5 years.? Considering the way that the hood/bonnet opens you dont need the catch anyways. > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Jerry C Shaw > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Tue, Sep 29, 2009 7:02 pm > Subject: [6pack] Hood latch (catch) assembly > > > > > > > > > > > Anyone have an alternative for the wimpy products offered by the Big Three as > substitutes for the Hood (a.k.a. Bonnet) latch assembly? Reference: TRF > 619580 or Moss 802-275. > Jerry > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com From cgrimes at golden.net Wed Sep 30 03:30:53 2009 From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 05:30:53 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Steering Bushings Message-ID: <70FD19B6BA2449E3B96DDCDC93994A2F@norman> Is it possible to put in new steering bushings without removal of the steering lock ??. lining up the winter projects. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 30 06:04:24 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 08:04:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Steering Bushings In-Reply-To: <70FD19B6BA2449E3B96DDCDC93994A2F@norman> References: <70FD19B6BA2449E3B96DDCDC93994A2F@norman> Message-ID: <37A2D8D438D548E88162B130DB3E2393@BOBSNEWPC> If you get Art Lipp's Delrin bushings, it's pretty easy to do. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Colin Grimes Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 5:31 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 Steering Bushings Is it possible to put in new steering bushings without removal of the steering lock ??. lining up the winter projects. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Wed Sep 30 11:49:57 2009 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 17:49:57 +0000 Subject: [6pack] steering bushings Message-ID: Colin, I put in Art Lipp's Delrin bushings without removing the steering lock, but I don't recommend it. The steering tube took much more abuse then was healthy because of the amount of "persuasion" I had to use to properly seat the bushing. If I was to do it again, regardless of which bushings I used, I would disassemble and remove the steering shaft and tube to replace the bushings. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now. http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_M LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Sep 30 13:15:49 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 19:15:49 GMT Subject: [6pack] VTR-Triumphest 2009 Registration Form Message-ID: Hope to see some of the list members later this week at the Triumphest/VTR in San Luis Obispo, Ca.. John T., Kendall, John R., maybe even Berry will drive down?! Jim F. says there are 241 entries and growing. Should be a geat turnout. Dick Taylor '73 TR6 Guards Red -----Original Message----- From: Jim Funkhouser Sent: Thursday, February 26, 2009 8:51 PM Subject: VTR-Triumphest 2009 Registration Form From dctr6 at optonline.net Wed Sep 30 13:22:41 2009 From: dctr6 at optonline.net (Dennis Culligan) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 15:22:41 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Hood Latch Message-ID: <000b01ca4203$6190b8d0$24b22a70$@net> Knowing how bad the new ones are, when my original one broke this spring at The Mitty, when I got home, I had it welded back together and put it back on. Hopefully it will last another 33 years. Dennis Culligan/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Sep 30 13:47:37 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 19:47:37 GMT Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics Message-ID: Someone at Veloce Publishing must've been told that I need "help" with my electrical skills. In the last few months I've received two books on the subject, asking that I should read them and comment, if I wish to do so. One was written by Martin Thaddeus, titled "Classic Car Electrics". A good book, 96 pages with illustrations. Worth a spot on one's book shelf! The other was written by Rick Astley, and written in greater depth with 196 pages and 375 color illustrations. The title is "Classic British Car Electrical Systems". Lots of great stuff in this one, covering many of the upgrades in ignitions, lights, alternators, ODs, fuel pumps, etc. Too many to list. I've enjoyed going thru this one in particular, as it is written in such a way that even I can understand it! Neither book puts Dan Master's own works to shame, as Dan has written his masterpiece soley for the TR Six, as should be first on anyone's list of manuals for the TR Electrical Systems. Still, if you find you would like more learning on the subjects, you can contact: www.veloce.co.uk Dick Taylor From 70tr6 at comcast.net Wed Sep 30 14:01:30 2009 From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:01:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <39B33792-19CE-46A1-9BB6-A3E5C63F8067@comcast.net> Does the Rick Astley one come with a free CD of his greatest hits from the 80's? Ashford Little 70tr6 at comcast.net On Sep 30, 2009, at 3:47 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Someone at Veloce Publishing must've been told that I need "help" > with my > electrical skills. In the last few months I've received two books on > the > subject, asking that I should read them and comment, if I wish to do > so. > One was written by Martin Thaddeus, titled "Classic Car Electrics". > A good > book, 96 pages with illustrations. Worth a spot on one's book shelf! > > The other was written by Rick Astley, and written in greater depth > with 196 > pages and 375 color illustrations. The title is "Classic British Car > Electrical Systems". Lots of great stuff in this one, covering many > of the > upgrades in ignitions, lights, alternators, ODs, fuel pumps, etc. > Too many to > list. I've enjoyed going thru this one in particular, as it is > written in such > a way that even I can understand it! > > Neither book puts Dan Master's own works to shame, as Dan has > written his > masterpiece soley for the TR Six, as should be first on anyone's > list of > manuals for the TR Electrical Systems. Still, if you find you would > like more > learning on the subjects, you can contact: www.veloce.co.uk > > Dick Taylor From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 30 14:05:30 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:05:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] steering bushings In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob......I had the complete opposite experience with them. They went in without any problem with just some light tapping. I know that Art pulled them off the market 6 - 12 months because some people were having a fit problem but he said he solved it and they're back to being available. I want to say that the issue ended up being "out of round" columns but age has faded my memory :-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Rochlin Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 1:50 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] steering bushings Colin, I put in Art Lipp's Delrin bushings without removing the steering lock, but I don't recommend it. The steering tube took much more abuse then was healthy because of the amount of "persuasion" I had to use to properly seat the bushing. If I was to do it again, regardless of which bushings I used, I would disassemble and remove the steering shaft and tube to replace the bushings. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Bing brings you maps, menus, and reviews organized in one place. Try it now. http://www.bing.com/search?q=restaurants&form=MLOGEN&publ=WLHMTAG&crea=TEXT_ M LOGEN_Core_tagline_local_1x1 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Sep 30 14:07:19 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:07:19 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Dick, With Dan no longer being active on the Mail List, I guess you're our new electrical guru! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 3:48 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: gary at veloce.co.uk Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics Someone at Veloce Publishing must've been told that I need "help" with my electrical skills. In the last few months I've received two books on the subject, asking that I should read them and comment, if I wish to do so. One was written by Martin Thaddeus, titled "Classic Car Electrics". A good book, 96 pages with illustrations. Worth a spot on one's book shelf! The other was written by Rick Astley, and written in greater depth with 196 pages and 375 color illustrations. The title is "Classic British Car Electrical Systems". Lots of great stuff in this one, covering many of the upgrades in ignitions, lights, alternators, ODs, fuel pumps, etc. Too many to list. I've enjoyed going thru this one in particular, as it is written in such a way that even I can understand it! Neither book puts Dan Master's own works to shame, as Dan has written his masterpiece soley for the TR Six, as should be first on anyone's list of manuals for the TR Electrical Systems. Still, if you find you would like more learning on the subjects, you can contact: www.veloce.co.uk Dick Taylor 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From wensley_tr at comcast.net Wed Sep 30 14:13:38 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 16:13:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00bc01ca420a$7fab0120$7f010360$@net> with Dan no longer being active on the Mail List, I guess you're our new electrical guru! Good luck Dick Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 4:07 PM To: 'Sally or Dick Taylor'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics Dick, With Dan no longer being active on the Mail List, I guess you're our new electrical guru! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 3:48 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: gary at veloce.co.uk Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics Someone at Veloce Publishing must've been told that I need "help" with my electrical skills. In the last few months I've received two books on the subject, asking that I should read them and comment, if I wish to do so. One was written by Martin Thaddeus, titled "Classic Car Electrics". A good book, 96 pages with illustrations. Worth a spot on one's book shelf! The other was written by Rick Astley, and written in greater depth with 196 pages and 375 color illustrations. The title is "Classic British Car Electrical Systems". Lots of great stuff in this one, covering many of the upgrades in ignitions, lights, alternators, ODs, fuel pumps, etc. Too many to list. I've enjoyed going thru this one in particular, as it is written in such a way that even I can understand it! Neither book puts Dan Master's own works to shame, as Dan has written his masterpiece soley for the TR Six, as should be first on anyone's list of manuals for the TR Electrical Systems. Still, if you find you would like more learning on the subjects, you can contact: www.veloce.co.uk Dick Taylor 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From ms6453 at optonline.net Wed Sep 30 18:56:58 2009 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Wed, 30 Sep 2009 20:56:58 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics In-Reply-To: <39B33792-19CE-46A1-9BB6-A3E5C63F8067@comcast.net> References: <39B33792-19CE-46A1-9BB6-A3E5C63F8067@comcast.net> Message-ID: <4AC3FE5A.8080505@optonline.net> Your show'n your age Ashford. -- Mitch