From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Oct 1 01:13:41 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 07:13:41 GMT Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics Message-ID: Lord, help us all! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Craig Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 1:13 PM To: 'Bob Danielson', 'Sally or Dick Taylor', 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics with Dan no longer being active on the Mail List, I guess you're our new electrical guru! Good luck Dick Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 4:07 PM To: 'Sally or Dick Taylor'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics Dick, With Dan no longer being active on the Mail List, I guess you're our new electrical guru! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Wednesday, September 30, 2009 3:48 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: gary at veloce.co.uk Subject: [6pack] Classic Car Electrics Someone at Veloce Publishing must've been told that I need "help" with my electrical skills. In the last few months I've received two books on the subject, asking that I should read them and comment, if I wish to do so. One was written by Martin Thaddeus, titled "Classic Car Electrics". A good book, 96 pages with illustrations. Worth a spot on one's book shelf! The other was written by Rick Astley, and written in greater depth with 196 pages and 375 color illustrations. The title is "Classic British Car Electrical Systems". Lots of great stuff in this one, covering many of the upgrades in ignitions, lights, alternators, ODs, fuel pumps, etc. Too many to list. I've enjoyed going thru this one in particular, as it is written in such a way that even I can understand it! Neither book puts Dan Master's own works to shame, as Dan has written his masterpiece soley for the TR Six, as should be first on anyone's list of manuals for the TR Electrical Systems. Still, if you find you would like more learning on the subjects, you can contact: www.veloce.co.uk Dick Taylor 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From triosan at gmail.com Thu Oct 1 10:11:30 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 09:11:30 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Spring Lengths Message-ID: <8cbd782d0910010911t63804a7ai68c729aff95a128f@mail.gmail.com> Looking for information on stock and uprated suspension sprngs. Does anyone know the height of the stock front and rear springs on a 6? How about the ones that lower the car an inch? -- Chuck Arnold From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Thu Oct 1 10:25:37 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 11:25:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Spark plug gap with electronic ignition Message-ID: Hi All, I recently installed an electronic ignition with a "Flame Thrower" coil (40,000 volts) in my '71 TR-6. The coil advertises "the higher voltage allows larger spark plug gaps for added power, smoother response and better fuel economy". Has anyone tried a larger plug gap then the recommended 0.025"? If so, what gap and did you notice any difference? Thanks, Bill E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Oct 1 12:50:18 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 18:50:18 GMT Subject: [6pack] Spark plug gap with electronic ignition Message-ID: Bill---Certain electronic ignitions, as in the Capacitive Discharge kind, can amp up the spark quite a bit. This can produce a hotter spark at the plug, and lends itself to allowing for a larger gap. A bigger, hotter spark is good when the combustion process has to deal with non-stock conditions, such as higher compressions and cold starting temperatures. The other favorable thing I found with mine is that sparkplugs last a looong time, as they don't foul out as before. The points also last much longer, as arcing is kept to a minimum with the CD unit. Some (all?) CD units also control dwell time, which we know helps the coil recovery when engine revs are really high. But...can one notice a difference with the larger gap? Only if your engine now can't go 50,000 miles on its plugs and points. One probably won't feel the difference in the seat-of-the-pants, unless your stock system is/was misfiring. It should only take one spark to fire the air/fuel mix. Once the mix ignites, then having a hotter than original spark won't make any difference. So far as better fuel economy, the only way this would show up would be if you were to also lean out the fuel mix (which a hotter spark is more capable of firing). Otherwise, unless you were wasting fuel from misfiring, there's no reason to believe this hotter spark would help fuel mileage. To answer the other part of your question about the wider gap, you can try .035. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Couzelis,William M. Sent: Thursday, October 1, 2009 9:25 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Spark plug gap with electronic ignition Hi All, I recently installed an electronic ignition with a "Flame Thrower" coil (40,000 volts) in my '71 TR-6. The coil advertises "the higher voltage allows larger spark plug gaps for added power, smoother response and better fuel economy". Has anyone tried a larger plug gap then the recommended 0.025"? If so, what gap and did you notice any difference? Thanks, Bill E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From wayne at motorcarriage.com Thu Oct 1 15:08:05 2009 From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 17:08:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Spark plug gap with electronic ignition Message-ID: Hi Bill and Dick, I'm not sure I understand what Bill means in "Electronic Ignition" if Dick is interpreting the system as retaining it's Contact Points. Most times the Electronic Ignition System would mean the Points and Condenser are being eliminated in the process with a Breakerless Setup like the Pertronix or others would provide. The part of the Ignition System that substitutes the Points etc. won't play any part in ramping up the Spark Voltage or what Dick is refering to a hotter Spark, that's still left up to your Coil. As far as Hot or Colder Spark goes that normally would refer to the Heat Range of your Spark Plugs. It might sound unusual, but when one has modified the Engine with Higher Compression Ratio's which increase the Thermal Efficiency of the Engine and Higher Lift or longer Profile Cams and larger Carbs etc. that increase the Volumetric Efficiency of the Engine, You'd actually have to run a Colder Plug, that moves the Heat Range down, while still having a higher Voltage Coil. When I've had stronger Coils while retaing the Points and Condenser setup, I've always found that the Points and Distributor Caps life would be shortened because of the stronger Arcing while the Contacts and Arc Gaps are being open/closed and crossed. What the claims the manufactures of systems like the Pertronix, Lumenition, etc, are founded on is the Flame Propagation qualities and the more controlled, smoother effects of getting rid of your Points. The MPG claims are based more on more complete Combustion making the most of your Air/Fuel mixture. I increased my NGK's Spark Plug Gap to .035" with the Pertronix System and a Lucas Sports Coil Ignition System. That along with the SU HS6 Conversion with K&N's yields me about 23-24 mpg on the country roads I travel on daily to work in my non-Overdrive Car. Cheers, Wayne Lee Douglas, MA 64 TR4 (project) 75 TR6 (daily driver) >> -----Original Message----- >> From: Couzelis,William M. >> Sent: Thursday, October 1, 2009 9:25 AM >> To: 6pack at autox.team.net >> Subject: [6pack] Spark plug gap with electronic ignition >> > Hi All, > I recently installed an electronic ignition with a "Flame Thrower" coil > (40,000 volts) in my '71 TR-6. The coil advertises "the higher voltage > allows larger spark plug gaps for added power, smoother response and > better fuel economy". Has anyone tried a larger plug gap then the > recommended 0.025"? If so, what gap and did you notice any difference? > Thanks, > Bill From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Thu Oct 1 18:36:35 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 20:36:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] RE: Spark plug gap with electronic ignition Message-ID: <380-22009105203635343@earthlink.net> Actually, unless you open the gap up, the voltage will be the same as it was with your old coil. It will be exactly the voltage required to overcome the resistance of the wires, distributor, plugs, and air gap, and not a millivolt more. The "40,000" is a reference to the coil's capability. Try .045" to start. Drive it like that for a while, then pop the cover on your distributor and see how the cap and rotor are handling the increased voltage. Look for signs of arcing, carbon trails, pitting on the copper, etc. I've never gone up from .045, because the rest of my system can't handle it for long, but that doesn't mean you can't. RPM, the condition of the engine, the CR, the A/F mixture, the design of the plug, and probably many other things all affect the resistance of a given spark plug gap. Also be aware that your plug wires must be in perfect condition. As the resistance at the plug will be larger, the spark will be that much more eager to find an alternative place to go to ground. Spray your plug wires with a water mister in a darkened garage with the engine running and look for sparks. Cheers, Tom From james.f.juhas at snet.net Thu Oct 1 20:03:42 2009 From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas) Date: Thu, 01 Oct 2009 22:03:42 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Lucas starters Message-ID: <4AC55F7E.8080701@snet.net> Can a Lucas starter of the type used on Spridgets and MGAs be used successfully on a 1973 TR6? I have seen references to this type of starter in some parts listings. From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Oct 1 22:38:12 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:38:12 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spring Lengths In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0910010911t63804a7ai68c729aff95a128f@mail.gmail.com> References: <8cbd782d0910010911t63804a7ai68c729aff95a128f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <10FB9CCC-612A-42EF-99DE-3ACC26274A9C@comcast.net> Chuck, I'm running 10" springs on the front and 11" on the rear. Down an inch for both from stock AFAIK (and for sure they were each an inch less than what I took off it) for my 71 TR6. Shorter springs but stiffer...don't remember the exact numbers (340??) but they are what is generally called a "competition" spring. I like em for autocrossing and so far the ride hasn't suffered that much. I use KYB gas shocks on the fronts and for now some rebuilt HD (heavy duty) stock Armstrong lever arms on the rear. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Oct 1, 2009, at 10:11 AM, Chuck Arnold wrote: > Looking for information on stock and uprated suspension sprngs. > > Does anyone know the height of the stock front and rear springs on a > 6? > > How about the ones that lower the car an inch? > > -- > Chuck Arnold > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 1 23:27:57 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Thu, 1 Oct 2009 22:27:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels Message-ID: <969152.15028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html Can't mount them until Sunday... From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Fri Oct 2 05:55:03 2009 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 04:55:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] 6-PACK TRials 2010 Message-ID: <508668.24205.qm@web43142.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> All, I posted this on the 6-PACK website(www.6-pack.org). Those of you on this list as well as FOT...please post this to the FOT list. I need to get as much interest as possible in order to secure the track for the day. Need to come up with a deposit ASAP Cheers, Todd Just wanted to put this up so that everyone has dates & location for TRials 2010. 2010 TRials will be held in Oxford, Ohio on September 9th thru 11th. Depart on the 12th. The hotel is just outside of Oxford home of Miami University. The host hotel is Hueston Woods Resort & Conference Center (http://www.huestonwoodsresort.com/) Room rates I believe are $109 each night. I'm sure you can spend more on a fancier room if you like. I believe the schedule will be like this... Thursday Arrive & Registration & Reunite. Thursday Evening will be Texas Style BBQ followed by Bon-Fire at the pit. Friday Drive the beautiful backroads toward Batesville and/or Historic Metamora. This is a BIG TENTATIVE at this point. We've tentatively agreed to RENT THE NEWLY BUILT Bluegrass Motorsports Park for the day. ( http://www.drivebluegrass.com ) We'll be given the opportunity to drive the course at 3 different levels: As fast as you like, touring, and parade. This will be a separate charge from the TRials and there are a few restrictions depending upon which you select. We'll be posting more information as details become available. After the visit to the Race track we'll have dinner on your own followed by Bon-Fire at the pit. We may be having some live entertainment in the hospitality suite...ask me how I know Saturday rise and shine for the Car show on the beautiful grounds of the Resort just up the hill from the lake. Saturday afternoon we'll be doing something silly I assure you...this has yet to be determined Naturally, we'll wrap things up with the Awards Banquet Saturday evening Sunday, say goodbyes & make ready for 2011! Cheers, Todd Bermudez 2010 TRials committee. From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Fri Oct 2 07:37:55 2009 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 06:37:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <969152.15028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Kendall: Let us know how the car steers after you mount them. I have 205/65-15's on my car, and it tends to wander badly on rough roads. I'm going to have my alignment check, however. I'm thinking about having my old steel wheels refurbished and getting a set of redline tires in the stock size to use for show. I'm thinking that might reduce the dartiness of the steering. Jim --- On Fri, 10/2/09, Kendall Larsen wrote: From: Kendall Larsen Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels To: "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Friday, October 2, 2009, 12:27 AM My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html Can't mount them until Sunday... 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From emanteno at gmail.com Fri Oct 2 07:43:11 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 08:43:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <969152.15028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <354a1780910020643k37fc0db0r1c88548918f8e886@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Oct 2, 2009 at 8:37 AM, Jim Jones wrote: > Kendall: > > Let us know how the car steers after you mount them. I have 205/65-15's on > my > car, and it tends to wander badly on rough roads. I'm going to have my > alignment check, however. I'm thinking about having my old steel wheels > refurbished and getting a set of redline tires in the stock size to use for > show. I'm thinking that might reduce the dartiness of the steering. > Jim, You may want to check your alignment. I am running 205/55x16, and I have no such wander or dartiness. Also, some tire designs are more prone to this than others. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Oct 2 07:51:34 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 09:51:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi Jim, If your car is "tracking", you probably have something more wrong with alignment than an issue with the tires, IMHO. Small changes in the alignmnet can fix this, but you need to be very sure what you want before you get a custom alignment. For example, I run close to zero toe on my street car and the car will follow ruts. I don't care about the rut thing because I want better turn in. But I also drive with both hands on the wheel. :-) regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From mdporter at dfn.com Fri Oct 2 08:06:57 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 08:06:57 -0600 Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AC60901.6020204@dfn.com> Jim Jones wrote: > Kendall: > > Let us know how the car steers after you mount them. I have 205/65-15's on my > car, and it tends to wander badly on rough roads. I'm going to have my > alignment check, however. I'm thinking about having my old steel wheels > refurbished and getting a set of redline tires in the stock size to use for > show. I'm thinking that might reduce the dartiness of the steering. > > Unless you have tires with a particularly squirmy tread, this is almost always a problem not with the tires or wheels, but with the toe setting. Given that the cars have fairly short tie rods, bump steer is something that's inherent in the design, and takes a lot of work and fiddling to minimize. When the toe goes awry, that magnifies the bump steer problem. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Oct 2 08:09:18 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 10:09:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <969152.15028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> Kendall; Anyone who takes pictures of a delivery still in the wrapper and is all excited has GOT to be a tad on the overboard side! :- ) So what brand/model and size of tires are those? I assume the wheels are 16" Konig Rewinds? Did you buy them from Discount Tire Warehouse? Dave Friedlander '74-TR6 Velocity Red ---- Kendall Larsen wrote: > My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! > > http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html > > Can't mount them until Sunday... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 2 09:08:32 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 08:08:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> References: <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> Message-ID: <675399.72554.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Haha... yeah, they arrived a week earlier than promised so it was a nice surprise! They're 16x7 Konig Rewinds, silver with polished lip. 205/60-16 Yokohama Avid TRZ from Discount Tire Direct. They didn't have the silver ones on ebay at the time so I just called and they sent them from an east coast wharehouse or something. (I'm in southern california). I got the $10/tire "protection plan" nonsense and I think the total was $917. Seemed like a pretty good deal to me. Kendall Simi Valley, CA ________________________________ From: Dave To: Kendall Larsen Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 7:09:18 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels Kendall; Anyone who takes pictures of a delivery still in the wrapper and is all excited has GOT to be a tad on the overboard side! :- ) So what brand/model and size of tires are those? I assume the wheels are 16" Konig Rewinds? Did you buy them from Discount Tire Warehouse? Dave Friedlander '74-TR6 Velocity Red ---- Kendall Larsen wrote: > My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! > > http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html > > Can't mount them until Sunday... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Fri Oct 2 09:30:14 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 09:30:14 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Soft top frame In-Reply-To: <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> References: <969152.15028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> Message-ID: <00eb01ca4375$3fcc03d0$bf640b70$@edu> OK- soft top frame, front "headrail" (the part that seals against the windshield). It is attached at each corner to the rest of the frame with little "ball joints". That is, there are little ball shaped rivets that extend through holes in the side frames. One of mine has come loose. That is, the ball pulled through the hole and out. Suggestions on how to put it back and KEEP IT THERE?? Kevin Kevin McNelis K5KMC 575-571-7326 From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Fri Oct 2 09:44:48 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Fri, 2 Oct 2009 11:44:48 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 282 Message-ID: <380-220091052154448265@earthlink.net> Wayne Lee Wrote: > I increased my NGK's Spark Plug Gap to .035" with the Pertronix System > and a Lucas Sports Coil Ignition System. " Wayne, just be aware that an unballasted Lucas Sport coil is only marginally compatible with a Pertronix Ignitor module in our cars. The Lucas Sports Coils I've measured all check out at 3 Ohms primary resistance. If you install the Lucas coil correctly according to instructions, the coil will see 13.5 volts or so during operation, assuming a healthy ammeter and good wire connections. That means the current through the Pertronix will be on the order of 4.5 amps, or slightly more than the 4 amp maximum for 6-cylinder cars that Pertronix recommends on their web site and in their installation literature. Moss and other vendors sell both the Lucas Sport coil and the Pertronix, with no warning that they are not strictly compatible (according to Pertronix-don't shoot the messenger). I've often wondered if this is a source of the poor reputation Pertronix has among some members of the LBC community? I'm running an MSD ignition unit, which uses a separate low-current circuit through the Pertronix trigger. The Lucas Sport coil is not suitable for the MSD unit however, because the resistance is too HIGH. I'm running an MSD blaster coil, which has a resistance of about 1.5 Ohms, and would fry the Pertronix unit with 9 amps in short order if the MSD Ignition box wasn't there to buffer the current. The next time someone tells you his Pertronix Ignitor failed, ask him what coil he was using and what the primary resistance was. Cheers, To From gamerrell at qwest.net Fri Oct 2 10:18:20 2009 From: gamerrell at qwest.net (Glenn Merrell) Date: Fri, 02 Oct 2009 10:18:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TTA Charity Drive Completes Successfully in San Luis Obispo, UJ for SALE! Message-ID: <4AC627CC.7040805@qwest.net> Hello All. ! In a procession of about 30 Standards and Triumphs, the Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009 completed the over 14000 mile drive arriving at the Embassy Suites SLO in just over 90 days, 31 states, 6 provinces, enlightening literally thousands of people to the the cause for awareness of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder. During this drive many hundreds of Triumphs caravaned with John and "UJ" to, from and at the 45 hosts and host clubs. The total British Cars in the caravans will total over 1000 at final count. Current donations for the three Charities is in the $25k range, and this is not the end of collections! Please contribute what you can. And remember, the Stag is also going to be auctioned for charity unless a benefactor steps up and asks "how much do I write the check for and to what charity?". The highest amount to benefit charity wins the title for Uncle Jack. If the car is auctioned, it will appear in an auction site on the TTA web site. I would like to begin the opening bid - since it would be for charity, should be at $40,000.00 USD. Too High? Let me know and we will consider a lower amount, we already have 3-4 people interested starting at $25k. Already donated? We would consider your donation amount as a contribution toward your final bid! UJ is in concours judging this morning, and I expect a very good result indeed! More later! Cheers! Glenn Merrell TTA North American Coordinator From mowog73 at sympatico.ca Sat Oct 3 05:27:26 2009 From: mowog73 at sympatico.ca (Mark Jones) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 07:27:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] =?windows-1252?q?Going_to_look_at_a_TR250_=96_ballpark_va?= =?windows-1252?q?lue_please=2E?= In-Reply-To: <8CC0F369DAC3DE4-22DC-8151@webmail-m038.sysops.aol.com> References: Message-ID: I took a look at the car last night. It was a bigger project than I wanted. I went thinking that if it needed a new frame that I wasn't interested and this car certainly needed a new one. Plus almost all of the TR250 specific trim was missing and the original seats were replced with ones from a Spitfire. The body panels were pretty good but I did see quite a few pop rivets and sheet metal screws. So I took a couple pictures of the car and sent them off to the other two clubs in the area. Maybe someone with deeper pockets than me will want the car. The car is savable; certainly not a parts car. From: Mark Jones To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, Sep 29, 2009 10:12 am Subject: [6pack] Going to look at a TR250  ballpark va lue please. Hi Everyone; I have been a long-time admirer of the TR250, but I am not new to Triumphs and lbcs in general. I have a 73 MGBGT, which has been a rolling restoration for the past 12 years. I have also owned a 80 Spitfire for 7 years, which I did a complete restoration on two winters ago (lots of new panels). And over the past year my step-son and I have been restoring a 76 TR7 for him. For years I have20been telling my wife that I would trade both the MGBGT and the Spitfire for a TR250. Well my chance to obtain one may have arrived. Just recently a TR250 has come up for sale local to me. My wife knows that I have always wanted a TR250 and has given her blessing to go look and buy if it is worth restoring. The car is described in the ad as restoration project or for parts. Body is in good shape. An email from the seller stated: The car is complete , it has not run in many years, interior, bumpers, and lights are off the car. This is my wifes car and her Dad was working on it years ago. The car has been in a garage for 17yrs that I know of. Any areas of the car I should look at in particular in terms of assessing the shape of the car? Are there pieces that are next to impossible to get and that I should look to see if they are there with the car? Did many of these cars come with OD? Anything else I should know about these cars? Im hoping to go see the car in the next couple of days. Assuming that the body is okay; not requiring major panel restoration, and the frame is not in need of major reconstruction, what would a car like this be worth? I know its hard to place a value from the information I have, but I dont have a sense for what a TR250 in need of complete restoration is worth but would like to have a range before going to see it. My thought is that this a $1000+/- car. The guy's price is: "make an offer". Maybe I'll put $500 in my pocket and see what happens. All comments and advise are welcome. Mark 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mgruber921 at aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 3 17:49:47 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 3 Oct 2009 19:49:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion Message-ID: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> I've already posted this to the Forums and figure I'd also share it with the Mail Lists. If you're thinking of doing the Miata seat conversion for your Triumph, I just updated my site with about 12 pages and 150 pictures showing how it's done. It includes: seat separation, upholstery removal, headrest speaker installation, leather cover installation and mounting brackets. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From n197tr4 at cs.com Sat Oct 3 20:47:22 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 03 Oct 2009 22:47:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... In-Reply-To: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> References: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <8CC12B421B5D75F-A7C8-16421@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Bob,?? Nice job on the conversion.? Tony Drews decided not to continue sales?on the TR6 Miata Conversion Kit, and offered it back to us. ?Sean & I have elected to continue the production of the kit. Sean developed the manufacturing processes and supplied the pieces to Jack, anyway, so it makes sense for us to continue the kit if there is a demand. So if anyone wants a kit this winter, lets round up some orders. I have one set one the shelf, in the meantime. We could do 15-25 sets and it would be worthwhile to do. Thanks! Joe & Sean Alexander -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, Oct 3, 2009 6:49 pm Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion I've already posted this to the Forums and figure I'd also share it with the Mail Lists. If you're thinking of doing the Miata seat conversion for your Triumph, I just updated my site with about 12 pages and 150 pictures showing how it's done. It includes: seat separation, upholstery removal, headrest speaker installation, leather cover installation and mounting brackets. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Oct 4 12:35:44 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 11:35:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Fuse Box Message-ID: <333375.75049.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I would like to convert my old fuse box to a more modern one that uses the small (not mini-though I would consider that too) spade fuses. Anyone have any recommendations that aren't too obtrusive that will hopefully fit in the same area as the stock one? Mike Lunsford From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Sun Oct 4 14:57:23 2009 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 13:57:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Fuse Box In-Reply-To: <333375.75049.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <333375.75049.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <262042.52577.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Mike If you have a copy of Dan Masters wiring book and the extra pages for his optional panel, you will see a plastic spade fuse block. These can be had at Autozone or some of the parts stores for about $ 4.00 each. They snap together if you want 4 - 8 - 12 fuses. This way, even using the same area, you can break out (separte) some of the wiring to a separte fuse. Horn, Hazards, Lights, can be on a separte fuse. It is castled so the orginal wires can be attached and jumpers added if necessary. Dale ________________________________ From: michael lunsford To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, October 4, 2009 2:35:44 PM Subject: [6pack] Fuse Box I would like to convert my old fuse box to a more modern one that uses the small (not mini-though I would consider that too) spade fuses. Anyone have any recommendations that aren't too obtrusive that will hopefully fit in the same area as the stock one? Mike Lunsford _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Sun Oct 4 20:20:57 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 19:20:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <675399.72554.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> <675399.72554.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <56374.76856.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> photos of my car with the new wheels and tires http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6wheels# anyone have pics to post from Triumphest yet? ________________________________ From: Kendall Larsen To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 8:08:32 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels Haha... yeah, they arrived a week earlier than promised so it was a nice surprise! They're 16x7 Konig Rewinds, silver with polished lip. 205/60-16 Yokohama Avid TRZ from Discount Tire Direct. They didn't have the silver ones on ebay at the time so I just called and they sent them from an east coast wharehouse or something. (I'm in southern california). I got the $10/tire "protection plan" nonsense and I think the total was $917. Seemed like a pretty good deal to me. Kendall Simi Valley, CA ________________________________ From: Dave To: Kendall Larsen Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 7:09:18 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels Kendall; Anyone who takes pictures of a delivery still in the wrapper and is all excited has GOT to be a tad on the overboard side! :- ) So what brand/model and size of tires are those? I assume the wheels are 16" Konig Rewinds? Did you buy them from Discount Tire Warehouse? Dave Friedlander '74-TR6 Velocity Red ---- Kendall Larsen wrote: > My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! > > http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html > > Can't mount them until Sunday... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Sun Oct 4 21:21:55 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Sun, 4 Oct 2009 21:21:55 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Paint job In-Reply-To: <56374.76856.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> <675399.72554.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <56374.76856.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001f01ca456a$fed2d3c0$fc787b40$@edu> Any guesses as to how much I would have to pay for a decent, yet cheap body-on paint job? Just good enough to make my 6 look good enough to sell? I have to sell, it has gotten to the point that I need a car for long distance commuting that doesn't require constant maintenance. It breaks my heart, but I can not afford to keep my 6 AND buy a new car also. Kevin From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 5 01:38:53 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 00:38:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Message-ID: <686425.90347.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Listers, There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# Kendall From ms6453 at optonline.net Mon Oct 5 06:57:22 2009 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 08:57:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... In-Reply-To: <8CC12B421B5D75F-A7C8-16421@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> References: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> <8CC12B421B5D75F-A7C8-16421@webmail-m045.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <45063EA737164FEA9F74DBE45FA4E7EF@marcydesk> What is the price for the conversion tracks? Do they keep the seats low & allow full movement. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, October 03, 2009 10:47 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion.... > Bob,?? Nice job on the conversion.? > > > > Tony Drews decided not to continue sales?on the TR6 Miata Conversion Kit, > and offered it back to us. ?Sean & I have elected to continue the > production of the kit. Sean developed the manufacturing processes and > supplied the pieces to Jack, anyway, so it makes sense for us to continue > the kit if there is a demand. > > > > So if anyone wants a kit this winter, lets round up some orders. I have > one set one the shelf, in the meantime. We could do 15-25 sets and it > would be worthwhile to do. > > > Thanks! > > > > Joe & Sean Alexander > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Sat, Oct 3, 2009 6:49 pm > Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion > > > > > I've already posted this to the Forums and figure I'd also share it with > the > Mail Lists. If you're thinking of doing the Miata seat conversion for your > Triumph, I just updated my site with about 12 pages and 150 pictures > showing > how it's done. It includes: seat separation, upholstery removal, headrest > speaker installation, leather cover installation and mounting brackets. > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as ms6453 at optonline.net _______ Mitch Seff Brite Do-it best Hardware Locksmiths-Industrial supply 112-15 Jamaica Ave 718-849-8121 Fax 718-849-8567 www.brite.doitbest.com brithard at optonline.net From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Oct 5 07:09:52 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 13:09:52 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion In-Reply-To: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> References: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: Bob, Excellent write-up as usual. Your pages are often invaluable. Just in case anybody reading this wishes it wasn't so much trouble to mount Miata seats in a TR-6, we fashioned a low-cost approach by using the existing TR-6 seat rails and completely removing the Miata rails. We basically make the bottom of the Miata seat function like the TR seat with a 3 ft piece of angle-iron cut into 4 pieces. The seats have two pivot points on the front, still tilt forward as original. They do not 'latch' to prevent the tilt, like mine never did anyway. If anybody wants more details, just write me. There are pictures and description at www.triumphowners.com/776, picture group "Miata Seats". We were lucky to find a pair of seats that didn't need to be restored. > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats1.htm > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as im_sloane at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Powerful Free email with security by Microsoft. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222986/direct/01/ From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Oct 5 07:14:35 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 9:14:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <56374.76856.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <20091005131435.2JLTK.494257.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Very nice, Kendall. Congrats. And many safe and fun miles on those, to you!! Dave '74-Six ---- Kendall Larsen wrote: > photos of my car with the new wheels and tires > http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6wheels# > > > anyone have pics to post from Triumphest yet? > > > > ________________________________ > From: Kendall Larsen > To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 8:08:32 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels > > Haha... yeah, they arrived a week earlier than promised so it was a nice surprise! They're 16x7 Konig Rewinds, silver with polished lip. 205/60-16 Yokohama Avid TRZ from Discount Tire Direct. They didn't have the silver ones on ebay at the time so I just called and they sent them from an east coast wharehouse or something. (I'm in southern california). I got the $10/tire "protection plan" nonsense and I think the total was $917. Seemed like a pretty good deal to me. > > Kendall > Simi Valley, CA > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Dave > To: Kendall Larsen > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 7:09:18 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels > > Kendall; > > Anyone who takes pictures of a delivery still in the wrapper > and is all excited has GOT to be a tad on the overboard side! :- ) > > So what brand/model and size of tires are those? I assume the wheels > are 16" Konig Rewinds? Did you buy them from Discount Tire > Warehouse? > > Dave Friedlander > '74-TR6 > Velocity Red > > > ---- Kendall Larsen wrote: > > My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! > > > > http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html > > > > Can't mount them until Sunday... > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From trglory at verizon.net Mon Oct 5 08:00:45 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 10:00:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <56374.76856.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> <675399.72554.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <56374.76856.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <007701ca45c4$3c783d60$b568b820$@net> They look great....what is the offset? Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall Larsen Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 10:21 PM To: 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels photos of my car with the new wheels and tires http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6wheels# anyone have pics to post from Triumphest yet? ________________________________ From: Kendall Larsen To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 8:08:32 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels Haha... yeah, they arrived a week earlier than promised so it was a nice surprise! They're 16x7 Konig Rewinds, silver with polished lip. 205/60-16 Yokohama Avid TRZ from Discount Tire Direct. They didn't have the silver ones on ebay at the time so I just called and they sent them from an east coast wharehouse or something. (I'm in southern california). I got the $10/tire "protection plan" nonsense and I think the total was $917. Seemed like a pretty good deal to me. Kendall Simi Valley, CA ________________________________ From: Dave To: Kendall Larsen Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 7:09:18 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels Kendall; Anyone who takes pictures of a delivery still in the wrapper and is all excited has GOT to be a tad on the overboard side! :- ) So what brand/model and size of tires are those? I assume the wheels are 16" Konig Rewinds? Did you buy them from Discount Tire Warehouse? Dave Friedlander '74-TR6 Velocity Red ---- Kendall Larsen wrote: > My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! > > http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html > > Can't mount them until Sunday... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as trglory at verizon.net From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Oct 5 08:27:00 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 10:27:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] New tires and wheels In-Reply-To: <007701ca45c4$3c783d60$b568b820$@net> Message-ID: <20091005142700.URI5E.496157.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Joe; I'm pretty sure Konig Rewinds are zero offset.... Dave Friedlander '74-Six ---- Joe Laurito wrote: > They look great....what is the offset? > > Joe > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kendall Larsen > Sent: Sunday, October 04, 2009 10:21 PM > To: 6pack List > Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels > > photos of my car with the new wheels and tires > http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6wheels# > > > anyone have pics to post from Triumphest yet? > > > > ________________________________ > From: Kendall Larsen > To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 8:08:32 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels > > Haha... yeah, they arrived a week earlier than promised so it was a nice > surprise! They're 16x7 Konig Rewinds, silver with polished lip. 205/60-16 > Yokohama Avid TRZ from Discount Tire Direct. They didn't have the silver > ones on ebay at the time so I just called and they sent them from an east > coast wharehouse or something. (I'm in southern california). I got the > $10/tire "protection plan" nonsense and I think the total was $917. Seemed > like a pretty good deal to me. > > Kendall > Simi Valley, CA > > > > > ________________________________ > From: Dave > To: Kendall Larsen > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, October 2, 2009 7:09:18 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels > > Kendall; > > Anyone who takes pictures of a delivery still in the wrapper and is all > excited has GOT to be a tad on the overboard side! :- ) > > So what brand/model and size of tires are those? I assume the wheels are 16" > Konig Rewinds? Did you buy them from Discount Tire Warehouse? > > Dave Friedlander > '74-TR6 > Velocity Red > > > ---- Kendall Larsen wrote: > > My 16" Konigs and tires arrived today! Yay! > > > > http://thisisnotkendall.blogspot.com/2009/10/shipment.html > > > > Can't mount them until Sunday... > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as trglory at verizon.net > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Oct 5 10:42:19 2009 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 09:42:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Paint job In-Reply-To: <001f01ca456a$fed2d3c0$fc787b40$@edu> Message-ID: <615066.61207.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Kevin: This might be helpful as a "high end" starting point. I paid $4500 to have my car stripped to bare metal, removal of all fenders, door, hood, and trunk lid. The basic body remained on the frame. I would hazard a guess that having your car repainted on top of your current paint with single stage paint would be a lot less than half that, if you removed your chrome, lights, etc. Of course this is in rural MO were costs are lower. I'd hate to see you loose your baby. Why not get an econo-beater for $2000 and have both? Just a thought. Jim --- On Sun, 10/4/09, Kevin McNelis wrote: From: Kevin McNelis Subject: [6pack] Paint job To: "'6pack List'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Sunday, October 4, 2009, 10:21 PM Any guesses as to how much I would have to pay for a decent, yet cheap body-on paint job? Just good enough to make my 6 look good enough to sell? I have to sell, it has gotten to the point that I need a car for long distance commuting that doesn't require constant maintenance. It breaks my heart, but I can not afford to keep my 6 AND buy a new car also. Kevin 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Oct 5 11:02:39 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 10:02:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry In-Reply-To: <686425.90347.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <686425.90347.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9B17@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Kendall: I found that the top bushings in the front suspension are pretty much worthless when they are made of the stock material. I went to urethane for the upper control arm bushings - this greatly stabilizes the front alignment. If your bushings are on their way out, this could give you the symptoms you are seeing. Some other questions to ponder: 1. Has the car taken a hit to the front end at some point? If so, there may be little you can do short of replacing the frame. 2. Have you had the front end professionally aligned? Hard to tell from the photos, but you may need to have this done. There are shims in the front end that are used to get everything aligned, and you may be missing some of the shims. An alignment will tell you if this is the case. Lastly, be advised that it is very, *VERY* easy to get the front suspension assembled incorrectly. It looks like your car has been repainted, and I am guessing that at some point the front suspension was rebuilt. The front suspension consists of a plethora of "handed" parts. It is exceedingly easy to put the left hand part on the right side, and vice versa, and yet the suspension will still go together nicely. Assuming that there is no collision damage, I am betting the front suspension is misassembled. Check Roger Williams book "How to Restore the TR4/4A/5/250/6". There are some nice photos that show how easy it is to get the front suspension buggered during assembly - and how to avoid this problem. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall Larsen Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 12:39 AM To: 6pack List Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Hi Listers, There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# Kendall From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Oct 5 14:06:20 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 05 Oct 2009 13:06:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry References: <686425.90347.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001a01ca45f7$4ee50130$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello, I have the reversed situation. My driver's side wheels protrude maybe 1/2 inch more. Car is a'71, it has had a paint job, I do not know if body was off. I did not notice this until I replaced 185/15 tires with 205/70-15s. Both tire types used on stock steel rims. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Kendall Larsen" To: "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 12:38 AM Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry > Hi Listers, > There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? > http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# > > Kendall E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13410 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Oct 5 11:16:00 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 10:16:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion In-Reply-To: References: <458159BDF00D4F75B2ADC393CF406273@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9B41@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> IM: That paint on your ride is an absolutely gorgeous color. I love it! Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im sloane Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 6:10 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion Bob, Excellent write-up as usual. Your pages are often invaluable. Just in case anybody reading this wishes it wasn't so much trouble to mount Miata seats in a TR-6, we fashioned a low-cost approach by using the existing TR-6 seat rails and completely removing the Miata rails. We basically make the bottom of the Miata seat function like the TR seat with a 3 ft piece of angle-iron cut into 4 pieces. The seats have two pivot points on the front, still tilt forward as original. They do not 'latch' to prevent the tilt, like mine never did anyway. If anybody wants more details, just write me. There are pictures and description at www.triumphowners.com/776, picture group "Miata Seats". We were lucky to find a pair of seats that didn't need to be restored. From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 5 11:27:09 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 12:27:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry References: <686425.90347.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9B17@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <8F4BB86B1B5641BD91BF19AE910D28CD@ranteer.local> this is quite likely. my car didn't quite sit straight, and we finally traced it to that exact problem (front suspension misassembled) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "Kendall Larsen" ; "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 12:02 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry > Kendall: > > I found that the top bushings in the front suspension are pretty much > worthless when they are made of the stock material. I went to urethane for > the > upper control arm bushings - this greatly stabilizes the front alignment. > If > your bushings are on their way out, this could give you the symptoms you > are > seeing. > Some other questions to ponder: > 1. Has the car taken a hit to the front end at some point? If so, there > may be little you can do short of replacing the frame. > 2. Have you had the front end professionally aligned? Hard to tell from > the > photos, but you may need to have this done. There are shims in the front > end > that are used to get everything aligned, and you may be missing some of > the > shims. An alignment will tell you if this is the case. > Lastly, be advised that it is very, *VERY* easy to get the front > suspension > assembled incorrectly. It looks like your car has been repainted, and I am > guessing that at some point the front suspension was rebuilt. The front > suspension consists of a plethora of "handed" parts. It is exceedingly > easy to > put the left hand part on the right side, and vice versa, and yet the > suspension will still go together nicely. > Assuming that there is no collision damage, I am betting the front > suspension > is misassembled. Check Roger Williams book "How to Restore the > TR4/4A/5/250/6". There are some nice photos that show how easy it is to > get > the front suspension buggered during assembly - and how to avoid this > problem. > > Vance From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Oct 5 11:33:34 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 10:33:34 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Bump steer on rough roads In-Reply-To: <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <969152.15028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <751923.63222.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9B68@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Jim: One source of bump steer is installing wheels with a non-stock offset. To minimize bump steer the steering axis normally must pass through the center of the tire patch (there are some exceptions). This is referred to as "zero scrub radius". You mentioned your "old steel wheels" so I am wondering if your new wheels have the factory correct offset - if not they may be the source of at least some of your rough road syndrome. Wide tires have issues with "tram lining" where the car wants to follow the wear pattern in the asphalt on a worn road. My Corvette was TERRIBLE for this, but the tires were much wider than the TR6. They were 255/50-ZR16 so they were a full 2" wider than the TR6 rubber. It was so scary at times I had to drive the 'vette at the very edge of the lane on some roads, so that the tires were riding on unworn portions of the road surface. I noticed other performance cars would often do the same on the affected stretch of highway (Mercedes AMG, BMW M3, etc). I am assuming that tram lining is NOT what you are referring to. Tram lining has little if any feel through the wheel, rather the car simply has a mind of its own and wanders back and forth without any steering input. Bump steer is felt as a series of sharp tugs through the steering wheel as each wheel encounters a bump or pothole in the road surface. For a car without power steering, it is essential that the correct wheel offset be observed, otherwise bump steering effects will increase, potentially becoming quite severe. Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 6:38 AM To: 6pack List; Kendall Larsen Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels Kendall: Let us know how the car steers after you mount them. I have 205/65-15's on my car, and it tends to wander badly on rough roads. I'm going to have my alignment check, however. I'm thinking about having my old steel wheels refurbished and getting a set of redline tires in the stock size to use for show. I'm thinking that might reduce the dartiness of the steering. Jim --- On Fri, 10/2/09, Kendall Larsen wrote: From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Oct 5 11:58:00 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 10:58:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Soft top frame In-Reply-To: <00eb01ca4375$3fcc03d0$bf640b70$@edu> References: <969152.15028.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <20091002140919.ZL3Y2.193845.root@hrndva-web04-z01> <00eb01ca4375$3fcc03d0$bf640b70$@edu> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9BA1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Kevin: I can only describe what I did with mine. I removed any loose rivets and replaced them with grade 10 button head cap screws (black oxide finish). I secured them with jet nuts so they would not come loose. No problems since. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin McNelis Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 8:30 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Soft top frame OK- soft top frame, front "headrail" (the part that seals against the windshield). It is attached at each corner to the rest of the frame with little "ball joints". That is, there are little ball shaped rivets that extend through holes in the side frames. One of mine has come loose. That is, the ball pulled through the hole and out. Suggestions on how to put it back and KEEP IT THERE?? Kevin From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Oct 5 12:40:33 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 11:40:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Message-ID: <719303.72448.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Kendall, I learned the hard way that 205 X 65 X 16 inch Dunlop signature tires will rub the fender on my 1970 TR 6 when the spring is fully depressed. I was backing out of my driveway with the steering wheel turned all the way to the stop and went down from the curb between the road and my driveway. The drivers side front tire scraped the inside of the fender and slightly deformed the center of the fender edge popping a small spot of paint off of the fender and scalloping the edge of the tire. I have never had any problem except under the above circumstances with this size tire and wheel setup. Out of an abundance of caution I put a half inch spacer under the front springs and am very cautious when I back out of my driveway. I have no idea why one of your wheels sticks out more than the other and will have to leave this question to others but thought you might learn something from my mistake. Mike Lunsford From jattr6 at hotmail.com Mon Oct 5 13:13:40 2009 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 19:13:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Portland OR: Paint/Rechrome Recommendations Message-ID: Last year I moved from MD to Portland OR... My car is STILL in MD though... it needs a fresh paint (and some rust spots fixed) and I need some rechroming done. i have trust-worthy places back east... but surely there are good places in PNW...right? Rechroming may be hard though. Very few places do that anymore due to the awful waste materials. Oh, any recommendations on moving the car out here? ARB (relo cube) does vehicle moving. or I suppose I could do the old uhaul and a trailer to get the rest of my stuff and car out here.... looooooong drive though. thanks! -james 1976 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Oct 5 14:11:07 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 16:11:07 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Bump steer on rough roads In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9B68@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <20091005201107.GWZIH.506376.root@hrndva-web03-z01> Vance; Some folks are using Konig rewinds because they look so similar to Panasport FS/FZ wheels (at less than half the cost), then mounting them with 16" tires. I'm NOT certain of this but, I believe, Panasports have a +4 offset while Konig Rewinds have a zero offset. Would you think that small offset difference account for someone's Six having bump steer issues or is that more because of wide profile tires? Dave Friedlander '74-Six ---- "Navarrette wrote: > Jim: > > For a car without power steering, it is essential that the correct wheel > offset be observed, otherwise bump steering effects will increase, > potentially becoming quite severe. > > Cheers, > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Jim Jones > Sent: Friday, October 02, 2009 6:38 AM > To: 6pack List; Kendall Larsen > Subject: Re: [6pack] New tires and wheels > > Kendall: > > Let us know how the car steers after you mount them. I have 205/65-15's on my > car, and it tends to wander badly on rough roads. I'm going to have my > alignment check, however. I'm thinking about having my old steel wheels > refurbished and getting a set of redline tires in the stock size to use for > show. I'm thinking that might reduce the dartiness of the steering. > > Jim > > --- On Fri, 10/2/09, Kendall Larsen wrote: > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From fasttrs at mindspring.com Mon Oct 5 14:20:24 2009 From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 15:20:24 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Message-ID: <13089469.1254774025389.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> I have seen those wheels listed with different offsets. Are you sure all four wheels have the same offset? Mike munson #28 EP TR6 -----Original Message----- >From: Kendall Larsen >Sent: Oct 5, 2009 2:38 AM >To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> >Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry > >Hi Listers, >There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? >http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Oct 5 14:41:23 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 13:41:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry In-Reply-To: <13089469.1254774025389.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <13089469.1254774025389.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9D15@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mike. Good one. That had not occurred to me. Seems like a distinct possibility. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Munson Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 1:20 PM To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry I have seen those wheels listed with different offsets. Are you sure all four wheels have the same offset? Mike munson #28 EP TR6 -----Original Message----- >From: Kendall Larsen >Sent: Oct 5, 2009 2:38 AM >To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> >Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry > >Hi Listers, >There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Oct 6 00:14:11 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 06 Oct 2009 06:14:11 GMT Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Message-ID: Kendall---I'm guessing that both front and rear tires stick out farther on the passenger side? And not noticed when using the stock wheels. Assuming that the shippers didn't send you two wheels with different offet, you'll want to take off either both the front (or rear) tires and do some measuring. First, drive the car forward, so the wheels are pointed straight ahead. Then drop a plumb line or something similar to where you can establish true vertical from the outermost fender (lip) to the ground. Then measure in from to the center of the spindle. Do the same with the other side of the car. If both sides are reasonably the same, this should tell you something. If they're not, measure from the spindle center to some easy to measure part of the frame. Do the same with the other side. What might show up is whether the body is tweeked, or the frame. I'm betting they sent you two different sets of wheels! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Kendall Larsen Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 12:38 AM To: 6pack List Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Hi Listers, There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# Kendall 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Oct 6 00:28:49 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 06 Oct 2009 06:28:49 GMT Subject: [6pack] VTR/Triumphest 2009 Message-ID: 285 entries at the San Luis Obispo, Ca. gathering of all Triumphs. Approx 70 did the auto-x. Andy Packard blew away the competition in his nicely prepared 250, by more than three seconds, for fastest time of day! Way to go, Andy! Dick From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Tue Oct 6 05:12:55 2009 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 07:12:55 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Message-ID: <7BB3DEC0583347F580C3FC93E6E8490E@Jerry2> Kendall I suspect that your suspicions about the body simply not being centered on the chassis are correct. Mine is off a bit, after having done a body-off, and I have 16x7 Panasports with no interference problems. However,I have new stock springs and a completely redone front suspension, so the fender rims sit well above the tires, which stick out a little on both sides. If you perform carefull measurements of the body and frame, you can easily tell if the two share a common centerline, so don't fret that your frame is bent, particularly with a frame off restoration. As other listers have noted, the upper wishbones are handed and can easily be reversed. The key is the that the vertical links should slope rearwards. Another symptom is excessive negative camber, since the upper wishbone is too far inboard and shims on the lower wishbone make it worse. Jerry Date: Mon, 5 Oct 2009 00:38:53 -0700 (PDT) From: Kendall Larsen Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <686425.90347.qm at web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Hi Listers, There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# Kendall From apackard68 at att.net Tue Oct 6 10:22:42 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 09:22:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] VTR/Triumphest 2009 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <838646.24351.qm@web83808.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Thanks, Dick. Help from you and the rest of the list all contributed to getting my car to where it is. I put this link on Forums, but here it is for the listers. It's my wife's digital camera video of what turned out to be the winning run at the autocross. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MWmI9W4MKLU Andy CD6746L HVDA ________________________________ From: Sally or Dick Taylor To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 11:28:49 PM Subject: [6pack] VTR/Triumphest 2009 285 entries at the San Luis Obispo, Ca. gathering of all Triumphs. Approx 70 did the auto-x. Andy Packard blew away the competition in his nicely prepared 250, by more than three seconds, for fastest time of day! Way to go, Andy! Dick _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as apackard68 at att.net From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 7 00:48:40 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Tue, 6 Oct 2009 23:48:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry In-Reply-To: <2C34724C26EB48E5B91710422123BECC@Jerry2> References: <2C34724C26EB48E5B91710422123BECC@Jerry2> Message-ID: <238416.52441.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Thanks for the comments all. I haven't had a chance to take a look yet, but will certainly report back soon. Kendall From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 7 19:23:12 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 7 Oct 2009 20:23:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph TransAmerica website down References: Message-ID: <2B760D59835E4E68A0782A069CE5F880@ranteer.local> some of you have been reading Brian's website (http://brianjones.tumblr.com/), which, btw, is excellent reading if you missed it. i wanted to point out that the lights he bought are done by a good friend and real Triumph guy here in the Dallas/Fort Worth area. i have them on my cars as well. I even have the prototype positive ground lights on one. Jim can be contacted at the above email address. From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Thu Oct 8 23:31:57 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Thu, 8 Oct 2009 22:31:57 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] ?? Message-ID: <836941.55811.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Can anybody remember the question I was going to ask about TR's? From mdporter at dfn.com Fri Oct 9 02:20:05 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Fri, 09 Oct 2009 02:20:05 -0600 Subject: [6pack] ?? In-Reply-To: <836941.55811.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <836941.55811.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4ACEF235.9030008@dfn.com> John Summers wrote: > Can anybody remember the question I was going to ask about TR's? > Yes. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Oct 9 08:06:04 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 9 Oct 2009 07:06:04 -0700 Subject: [6pack] ?? In-Reply-To: <836941.55811.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <836941.55811.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E235F42E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> John: Uhhh... "Why do only the most intelligent and good looking members of society drive TR6s?" Am I close? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Summers Sent: Thursday, October 08, 2009 10:32 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] ?? Can anybody remember the question I was going to ask about TR's? _______________________________________________ From jimhurle at gmail.com Sun Oct 11 11:27:06 2009 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 13:27:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Manifold Studs and gasket Message-ID: <2d6b54e10910111027j3dfc08feid0ded706ed98f5e7@mail.gmail.com> Hello, I had a cracked exhaust manifold and wanted to replace my exhaust system, so the whole thing came out. I got new studs and nuts, and a new gasket. Which brings up several questions - 1. Should I use Locktite or something similar on the studs to hold them in the head better? 2. Should I put some gasket compound or coating on the gasket? That's all for now. Thanks in advance, Jim Hurley "I'd rather be upside down in my kayak than rightside up at my desk." From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Oct 11 18:38:38 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 00:38:38 GMT Subject: [6pack] Manifold Studs and gasket Message-ID: Jim---No dressing is necessary for the manifold gasket. The studs for the manifolds aren't going anywhere. In fact, they can sometimes resist coming out. I use just a light smear of anti-seize on the threaded end that goes into the head, and just snug them up. (The non-threaded shank will bottom out the stud) No gorilla tactics necessary! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Jim Hurley Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 10:27 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Manifold Studs and gasket Hello, I had a cracked exhaust manifold and wanted to replace my exhaust system, so the whole thing came out. I got new studs and nuts, and a new gasket. Which brings up several questions - 1. Should I use Locktite or something similar on the studs to hold them in the head better? 2. Should I put some gasket compound or coating on the gasket? That's all for now. Thanks in advance, Jim Hurley "I'd rather be upside down in my kayak than rightside up at my desk." 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 12 00:01:55 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Sun, 11 Oct 2009 23:01:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9D15@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <13089469.1254774025389.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9D15@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <719051.37028.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I checked the offset of the two front wheels and they were both the same. (at 11.5cm) Also uploaded some pics of my suspension. Take a look if you're able to tell just by looking at the pictures if it is installed wrong. The car did have front end damage at one point in its life so it's very likely that it just wasn't straightened properly. http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# Kendall ________________________________ From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: Mike Munson ; 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 1:41:23 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Mike. Good one. That had not occurred to me. Seems like a distinct possibility. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Munson Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 1:20 PM To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry I have seen those wheels listed with different offsets. Are you sure all four wheels have the same offset? Mike munson #28 EP TR6 -----Original Message----- >From: Kendall Larsen >Sent: Oct 5, 2009 2:38 AM >To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> >Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry > >Hi Listers, >There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Mon Oct 12 05:54:40 2009 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 04:54:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry In-Reply-To: <719051.37028.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <13089469.1254774025389.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9D15@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <719051.37028.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <813498.86941.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Kendall In the pictures of your suspension that show the inner fenders, it appears to me that the body is not centered on the frame. This may be just the angle of the pictures. Have you measured, from the frame rail to the lower lip of each fender to see if it is the same? Dale ________________________________ From: Kendall Larsen To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, October 12, 2009 2:01:55 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry I checked the offset of the two front wheels and they were both the same. (at 11.5cm) Also uploaded some pics of my suspension. Take a look if you're able to tell just by looking at the pictures if it is installed wrong. The car did have front end damage at one point in its life so it's very likely that it just wasn't straightened properly. http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# Kendall ________________________________ From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: Mike Munson ; 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, October 5, 2009 1:41:23 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry Mike. Good one. That had not occurred to me. Seems like a distinct possibility. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Munson Sent: Monday, October 05, 2009 1:20 PM To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry I have seen those wheels listed with different offsets. Are you sure all four wheels have the same offset? Mike munson #28 EP TR6 -----Original Message----- >From: Kendall Larsen >Sent: Oct 5, 2009 2:38 AM >To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> >Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry > >Hi Listers, >There's a disturbing lack of symmetry that was made apparent with the wider (16x7) wheels. The passenger side sticks out more than half inch further than on the driver side. Not sure if the body just isn't on straight or if the suspension is just borked or what. Looks like the tire will definitely make contact with the fender if I hit a big bump on the road. Any ideas on how to resolve? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Oct 12 09:23:00 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 08:23:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lack of symmetry In-Reply-To: <719051.37028.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <13089469.1254774025389.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E22F9D15@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <719051.37028.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E235FB66@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Kendall: It is very difficult to tell from the pictures, but the upper control arms *SEEM* to be assembled correctly. That does not mean the bottom control arms are assembled correctly since they are not visible in the photos. Also, it was not possible to see if the upper fulcrum pin is oriented correctly (They can be installed backwards). It is very clear to me that you have some sort of suspension issue, however. The drivers side front tire clearly has a camber issue, so something major is going on. I also noticed what seemed to be a difference in the location of the suspension towers, based on their relative position to the inner fenders. Whether this indicates a body problem or a suspension problem is not clear. Based on the camber issue, I would say suspension, but more checking is warranted. At this point I would take it to an alignment shop that has some experience with LBCs, and ask them to check it out. Show them what you have found, and ask them for a diagnosis. It will save a lot of time, and they have all the various jigs and what not to tell you what needs to be fixed. If you are lucky, an alignment is all it will need. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall Larsen Sent: Sunday, October 11, 2009 11:02 PM To: 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] Lack of symmetry I checked the offset of the two front wheels and they were both the same. (at 11.5cm) Also uploaded some pics of my suspension. Take a look if you're able to tell just by looking at the pictures if it is installed wrong. The car did have front end damage at one point in its life so it's very likely that it just wasn't straightened properly. http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/Clearance# Kendall From fishplate at charter.net Mon Oct 12 12:11:43 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 14:11:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Front End Rebuild Questions Message-ID: Rebuilding the front end on my 75 TR6...I've got all the pieces apart, more or less, and in the process of cleaning and finishing, I wondered if there's any consensus regarding paint, POR-15 or powder coating on the arms and knuckles that make up the suspension? Also, I can clean the vertical link more easily if I take it completely apart, removing the steering arm and pressing out the spindle. But I wonder how large a can of worms I open if I do that - any advice? And finally, I was playing with the new trunnions I got. They are much tighter than the old ones (which didn't have much slop), but they are especially tight in the final position. Not so tight that I can't turn it by hand, but pretty stiff. How stiff should they be? Thanks! Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Oct 12 15:38:24 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:38:24 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Front End Rebuild Questions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72FA52B1257D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Jeff, I media blasted all my suspension parts then etch primed and painted. I find POR15 a bit thick for some applications (I did my frame with it) and just used black paint on the suspension. I think the prep will be more important than the final finish. I stripped everything down but stopped short of removing the axle from the vertical link. I just wrapped it in masking tape to escape the alox. Ball joints vary depending on where you get them. I started with TRF ball joints but they locked up solid when the front end was off the ground and I didn't like that despite assurances from TRF that this was normal so I switched to some ball joints from Moss which swiveled regardless of whether the wheels were on the ground or not. I still have the TRF ball joints and I may revisit that decision this winter. When operating by hand any new ball joint should be a bit stiff. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 2:12 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Front End Rebuild Questions Rebuilding the front end on my 75 TR6...I've got all the pieces apart, more or less, and in the process of cleaning and finishing, I wondered if there's any consensus regarding paint, POR-15 or powder coating on the arms and knuckles that make up the suspension? Also, I can clean the vertical link more easily if I take it completely apart, removing the steering arm and pressing out the spindle. But I wonder how large a can of worms I open if I do that - any advice? And finally, I was playing with the new trunnions I got. They are much tighter than the old ones (which didn't have much slop), but they are especially tight in the final position. Not so tight that I can't turn it by hand, but pretty stiff. How stiff should they be? Thanks! From wcwellbaum at cox.net Mon Oct 12 18:41:57 2009 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 17:41:57 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings Message-ID: <7B60B9B0BEF447C1ADAB0DD702DCC5A6@office> I almost dread opening this thread but I've forgotten the general consensus on which way to go: I need to replace the swingarm bushings in the TR-6. I may do the diff at the same time. I did them last in 1994 with standard rubber items. The car gets driven maybe 1,000 miles a year--no competition, just plain old street driving. What is the current thought on the best way to go --so that I never have to do this again. And from whom should I purchase them? I'm certain the heat here in the Las Vegas Valley has contributed to their failure. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Mon Oct 12 19:39:58 2009 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 21:39:58 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Front End Rebuild Questions References: Message-ID: <70E40E6DB9A2443CA0B72CCA4441919E@study> Jeff, Many owners seem to go the POR-15 route. If you want to powder coat then the parts need to be bead blasted to optimize the powder paint adhesion. I went this route for my frame-off restoration but that's because everything was taken apart and bead blasted, using the cabinet in my employer's tool room so it cost nothing except hours on my feet. Powder coating was not that expensive at the time (2002-2003) - the entire chassis cost $250 and all of the black metal throughout the car was another $250, done in either semi-gloss or gloss black. I do not recommend pressing off the axles from the vertical links unless you want to replace them. I tried this once and it took over 2000 pounds of force on an industrial press before the thing loudly popped off like a missile into a large blanket placed underneath. You can mask the surfaces that you do not want to bead blast and paint. Powder coaters use a special masking tape that can withstand the heat from the baking oven. Trunnions should not be tight unless you are referring to attempting to turn the vertical link on the car while up on a jackstand. In that case the road spring is adding alot of downward tension without the weight of the car compressing it. And make sure you use the proper weight oil, not grease, inside the threads before threading on the vertical link. Thread the trunnion all the way on then back off to the first working position (as if on the car = axle facing out, trunnion aligned with axle). It's also a good time to make sure the lubrication channel in the vertical link threaded section is clear. Sometimes it gets clogged when grease is used instead of oil. Greg Dito CD6250 Chapel Hill, NC From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Oct 12 20:37:55 2009 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 19:37:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: <7B60B9B0BEF447C1ADAB0DD702DCC5A6@office> Message-ID: <70723.93204.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Many listers have used uerethane bushings successfully, though I seem to remember that there were a few comments about squeaking a bit following installation. I have nylatron bushings that were obtained from Goodparts. I have had ZERO problems with noise or rear end sagging from worn bushings. For my money, buy these from Goodparts. He's a great supporter of the hobby and has a well deserved reputation for helping out with problems, should they ever arise. Jim --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Bill Wellbaum wrote: From: Bill Wellbaum Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:41 PM I almost dread opening this thread but I've forgotten the general consensus on which way to go: I need to replace the swingarm bushings in the TR-6. I may do the diff at the same time. I did them last in 1994 with standard rubber items. The car gets driven maybe 1,000 miles a year--no competition, just plain old street driving. What is the current thought on the best way to go --so that I never have to do this again. And from whom should I purchase them? I'm certain the heat here in the Las Vegas Valley has contributed to their failure. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Oct 12 21:53:53 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Mon, 12 Oct 2009 20:53:53 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Lack of Symmetry Message-ID: <99496.81171.qm@web65603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> My 6 was hit sometime in the DPO past. Several small creases in the frame on passenger side. There were 5-6 shims on one side, none on the other, camber wasn't correct. The alignment shop said the frame fix would be difficult & expensive, advised me to live with it as I don't put many miles on the car. I went home. The tower cracked last year where the fulcrum pin bolts to the frame. Messed up the inner fender as well. Steering control had been deteriorating, now it wasn't drivable. Mig welded it up tight & reinforced it, took it to a well reputed shop that does both frame straightening & steering alignment. 2.5 hours work by their senior guy for 4 wheel alignment, - all is now well. I count myself as lucky on this one. Our cars are 33+ years old. This was my 4th fix on the frame in 11 years. Of course a frame off woulda been best. Bruce Simms Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 13 07:01:21 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 09:01:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: <70723.93204.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <7B60B9B0BEF447C1ADAB0DD702DCC5A6@office> <70723.93204.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Bill...... This isn't a big deal to do and I've covered it all in pictures on my site (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm) This will give you a nice step by step walk through. A couple of things: when you remove your TA make sure you note and keep track of the number of shims between the TA and the frame. Put them back exactly in the same combination as you removed them. I also added grease fitting to the TA but I'm not sure this is necessary but it can't hurt. I went with Goodpart's Nylatron and have no trouble with any squeaking. I greased them per the instructions and they nice and quiet. The other thing you should do while you're working back there is to repair all of the TA studs as some of them are probably stripped. It's very common with the aluminum TA to have the threads strip. The easiest and best way to fix them is to use Rick Patton's TA repair kit (http://www.pattonmachine.com/TARepairJig.htm) The kit ensures perfectly true holes and threads and lets you choose between KeenSerts or Helicolis. I was his test case for the kit (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TAJig.htm) and it worked perfectly. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 10:38 PM To: 6pack; Bill Wellbaum Subject: Re: [6pack] Suspension bushings Many listers have used uerethane bushings successfully, though I seem to remember that there were a few comments about squeaking a bit following installation. I have nylatron bushings that were obtained from Goodparts. I have had ZERO problems with noise or rear end sagging from worn bushings. For my money, buy these from Goodparts. He's a great supporter of the hobby and has a well deserved reputation for helping out with problems, should they ever arise. Jim --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Bill Wellbaum wrote: From: Bill Wellbaum Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:41 PM I almost dread opening this thread but I've forgotten the general consensus on which way to go: I need to replace the swingarm bushings in the TR-6. I may do the diff at the same time. I did them last in 1994 with standard rubber items. The car gets driven maybe 1,000 miles a year--no competition, just plain old street driving. What is the current thought on the best way to go --so that I never have to do this again. And from whom should I purchase them? I'm certain the heat here in the Las Vegas Valley has contributed to their failure. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Oct 13 09:28:52 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 11:28:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: <7B60B9B0BEF447C1ADAB0DD702DCC5A6@office> References: <7B60B9B0BEF447C1ADAB0DD702DCC5A6@office> Message-ID: Hi, Unless "forever" is 10 years or less, there's a pretty good likelyhood that the job will need doing again in the future. That said, the rubber parts that we get and that we've been getting for some time (like the last 15 years) seem to have problems dealing with the environment (like UV light and ozone) and they deteriorate pretty quickly as compared to the original parts did. At any rate, I'm a fan or non-rubber parts based on longevity, not just the benfits of a more solid mounting points. So no matter what you do, use urethane upper control arm bushings as the min. To your question, I like urethane for the rear bushings as they get rid of a lot of compliance "issues" that the rubber has. The main thing when replacning the bushings - no matter what you end up using - is that you maintain the proper dimensions with the replacement parts. What this means is that if you use urethane, make sure the steel sleeves are the same length as the sleeves you take out and make sure that the sleeves are cut SQUARE. I've seen a lot of these parts with the steel sleeves dimensions all over the place and the will effect how they work when you install them. I like delrin even more, but some folks think that effects the transmission of road noise more than the rubber. I disagree, but this is opinion and we can stop that discussion there. There are harder rubber bushings available, that might be a resonable compromise, but the comments above still hold. Make sure the dimensions are right before you install of you get no benefit from doing the parts replacement. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Oct 13 10:11:17 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 09:11:17 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings In-Reply-To: <7B60B9B0BEF447C1ADAB0DD702DCC5A6@office> References: <7B60B9B0BEF447C1ADAB0DD702DCC5A6@office> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E23DADF4@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bill: My experience was exactly the same, and I live in the cool and rainy northwest. I believe the rubber bits are all made in Taiwan these days (maybe not, but that is what I suspect) and the rubber simply flows under the pressure that gets applied to the bushings. Maybe OEM bushings would last longer, but we all know that eventually the OEM rubber bushings sag as well. I went to urethane rear bushings 2 years after I rebuilt the rear suspension because the rear end was starting to sag again, and I did not want to do it over yet again. The urethane has been very stable, and despite my fears has not been an issue in terms of squeaks, etc. I cannot tell the difference in ride either (stock springs and shocks, YMMV) As to where to buy them, I got mine from Moss. The fit was good, and installation was easy (although I had to use a gear puller to get the old ones out). Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bill Wellbaum Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 5:42 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings I almost dread opening this thread but I've forgotten the general consensus on which way to go: I need to replace the swingarm bushings in the TR-6. I may do the diff at the same time. I did them last in 1994 with standard rubber items. The car gets driven maybe 1,000 miles a year--no competition, just plain old street driving. What is the current thought on the best way to go --so that I never have to do this again. And from whom should I purchase them? I'm certain the heat here in the Las Vegas Valley has contributed to their failure. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Oct 13 10:40:54 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 11:40:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings References: <70723.93204.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: goodparts are the best!!!!! my car is full of them!!!!! ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Jones" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Bill Wellbaum" Sent: Monday, October 12, 2009 9:37 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Suspension bushings > Many listers have used uerethane bushings successfully, though I seem to > remember that there were a few comments about squeaking a bit following > installation. > > I have nylatron bushings that were obtained from Goodparts. I have had > ZERO > problems with noise or rear end sagging from worn bushings. For my money, > buy > these from Goodparts. He's a great supporter of the hobby and has a well > deserved reputation for helping out with problems, should they ever arise. > > Jim > > --- On Mon, 10/12/09, Bill Wellbaum wrote: > > > From: Bill Wellbaum > Subject: [6pack] Suspension bushings > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: Monday, October 12, 2009, 7:41 PM > > > I almost dread opening this thread but I've forgotten the general > consensus > on > which way to go: I need to replace the swingarm bushings in the TR-6. I > may > do the diff at the same time. I did them last in 1994 with standard > rubber > items. The car gets driven maybe 1,000 miles a year--no competition, just > plain old street driving. What is the current thought on the best way to > go > --so that I never have to do this again. And from whom should I purchase > them? I'm certain the heat here in the Las Vegas Valley has contributed > to > their failure. > > Bill Wellbaum > Las Vegas From rclark at robertsonclark.com Tue Oct 13 11:23:41 2009 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 10:23:41 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal Message-ID: Any recommendations for removing the undercoating from the inner fender wells? I have a rear clip that I am preparing for replacement of the current section that has multiple issues. I am using a paint stripping heat gun to soften the stuff before scraping with a spatula. I also tried one of the spinning wire paint strippers attached to a drill with limited success. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Oct 13 12:01:16 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 11:01:16 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E23DAF4A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Angle grinder with a twisted wire brush. If you go this route, it will take at least two brushes to do the entire car. A drill is much too wimpy to get the job done. I bought a small angle grinder for $40. Takes it off lickety split, with no smell or chemicals. Zowie, it works fast. Wear coveralls, safety glasses, a facemask, and a hair net or hat. That undercoating comes off FAST and it flies all over the place. You can't avoid having some of it hit you in the face so protect your eyes. If you are patient, the heat gun and scraper works. But it was much too slow for me. I tried a propane torch. Much faster but the odor was overpowering. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert N. Clark Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 10:24 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal Any recommendations for removing the undercoating from the inner fender wells? I have a rear clip that I am preparing for replacement of the current section that has multiple issues. I am using a paint stripping heat gun to soften the stuff before scraping with a spatula. I also tried one of the spinning wire paint strippers attached to a drill with limited success. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From ambritts at bellsouth.net Tue Oct 13 13:39:32 2009 From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:39:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E23DAF4A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <004901ca4c3c$e45b0700$6401a8c0@STATION6> I used the wire brush on a grinder also. Did a great job. But even better are the purple 3M grinding disc that are about 3" in diameter, 1/2" thick. You get these at a good auto paint supplier. They work three times as fast as a wheel. The only drawback is you cannot hit too many screw heads, nuts, or sharp objects as they will deteriorate faster. On areas like inner fender wells, and engine compartments they can't be beat IMHO. They are not cheap, about $4-$5/each and come in a bag of 3 if memory serves me. Same advice for the gear to wear. I added ear protection. Alex ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "Robert N. Clark" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 2:01 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal > Angle grinder with a twisted wire brush. If you go this route, it will > take > at least two brushes to do the entire car. A drill is much too wimpy to > get > the job done. I bought a small angle grinder for $40. > > Takes it off lickety split, with no smell or chemicals. Zowie, it works > fast. > > Wear coveralls, safety glasses, a facemask, and a hair net or hat. That > undercoating comes off FAST and it flies all over the place. You can't > avoid > having some of it hit you in the face so protect your eyes. > > If you are patient, the heat gun and scraper works. But it was much too > slow > for me. I tried a propane torch. Much faster but the odor was > overpowering. > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Robert N. Clark > Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 10:24 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal > > Any recommendations for removing the undercoating from the inner fender > wells? I have a rear clip that I am preparing for replacement of the > current section that has multiple issues. I am using a paint stripping > heat gun to soften the stuff before scraping with a spatula. I also > tried one of the spinning wire paint strippers attached to a drill with > limited success. > > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 > _______________________________________________ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 13 14:52:29 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 16:52:29 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CA87689618F4C9D824403D919E2C886@BOBSNEWPC> Nastiest job going and there's no easy way to do it. Heat and a scrapper work as does some industrial strength strippers but it's slow messy work. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert N. Clark Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 1:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal Any recommendations for removing the undercoating from the inner fender wells? I have a rear clip that I am preparing for replacement of the current section that has multiple issues. I am using a paint stripping heat gun to soften the stuff before scraping with a spatula. I also tried one of the spinning wire paint strippers attached to a drill with limited success. Bob Clark '69 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 13 14:56:32 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 16:56:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E23DAF4A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E23DAF4A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <33A25176CF924D12B1D228D1078BC91F@BOBSNEWPC> Only warning I'd give you with Vance's method is that a wire brush on an angle grinder can do some serious metal damage if you're not careful. It's also great at removing rust and showing you exactly where the rust was covering all the little pin holes in the metal. I cleaned up my rusty Miata seat pans (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/MiataSeats5.htm) with this method and found a few surprises! Wear all the gear Vance mentions and work slowly. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 2:01 PM To: Robert N. Clark Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal Angle grinder with a twisted wire brush. If you go this route, it will take at least two brushes to do the entire car. A drill is much too wimpy to get the job done. I bought a small angle grinder for $40. Takes it off lickety split, with no smell or chemicals. Zowie, it works fast. Wear coveralls, safety glasses, a facemask, and a hair net or hat. That undercoating comes off FAST and it flies all over the place. You can't avoid having some of it hit you in the face so protect your eyes. If you are patient, the heat gun and scraper works. But it was much too slow for me. I tried a propane torch. Much faster but the odor was overpowering. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert N. Clark Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 10:24 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal Any recommendations for removing the undercoating from the inner fender wells? I have a rear clip that I am preparing for replacement of the current section that has multiple issues. I am using a paint stripping heat gun to soften the stuff before scraping with a spatula. I also tried one of the spinning wire paint strippers attached to a drill with limited success. Bob Clark '69 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Oct 13 15:36:37 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 14:36:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Undercoat removal In-Reply-To: <8CA87689618F4C9D824403D919E2C886@BOBSNEWPC> References: <8CA87689618F4C9D824403D919E2C886@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E23DB11D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Folks One other thing I tried was a 3500 PSI pressure washer. While it is environmentally friendly it is still too slow to suit me, and only removes about 90%. It does offer the advantage that it gets into the sheet metal creases whereas creases are difficult to impossible with an angle grinder. Still, you may wish to try it. Just don't hit yourself in the foot with the water jet. That sucker HURTS. And the smaller the jet size the better. One other thing on the angle grinder. You will want both a twisted wire cup brush, in addition to the flat twisted wire brush. The cup is great for flat surfaces, the flat brush lets you get into MANY of the crevices in the fender (but not all). Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 1:52 PM To: 'Robert N. Clark'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal Nastiest job going and there's no easy way to do it. Heat and a scrapper work as does some industrial strength strippers but it's slow messy work. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From gaf3 at charter.net Tue Oct 13 16:11:08 2009 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 18:11:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Undercoat Removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4AD4FAFC.6030200@charter.net> 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote: After restoring many British Cars both MG and Triumph, the best method I have found for removing undercoating has been with a torch by heating up the area and scraping off the under coating. I have tried mineral spirits, heat guns, cold scraping etc, etc but nothing works faster than a propane or acetylene torch with some gentle scraping to get rid of the goo. Just removed the goo from a set of wings from a TR250 this past winter. Good luck and watch out for fires!! Glenn FOT Spit Racer and many TR's > > Message: 2 > Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 10:23:41 -0700 > From: "Robert N. Clark" > Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Message-ID: > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Any recommendations for removing the undercoating from the inner fender > wells? I have a rear clip that I am preparing for replacement of the > current section that has multiple issues. I am using a paint stripping > heat gun to soften the stuff before scraping with a spatula. I also > tried one of the spinning wire paint strippers attached to a drill with > limited success. > > > > > > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 295 > ************************************* From rclark at robertsonclark.com Tue Oct 13 16:14:29 2009 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:14:29 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] undercoating removal Message-ID: Thanks to all for the input. Seems like I have been using most of the right tools. I have been using all the protective gear. As Bob Danielson mentioned, this stuff hides a plethora of both manufacturing and age related issues. A few pinholes have appeared, but overall the stuff did a good job of protecting the steel, especially where it has remained in a semi-solid state. The wire wheel attachment for the drill seems to be similar to the crud thug Gary mentioned. It works in some spots but not in others and tends to strip the brittle stuff better than that which is still soft. Any concerns when using the torch of applying too much heat? It seems that fire is an indication that you have definitely applied enough to scrape off the coating but does that cause any issues for the steel, I.e. warping? Bob Clark '69 TR6 From dc_bruin at hotmail.com Tue Oct 13 16:35:03 2009 From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 15:35:03 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal In-Reply-To: <8CA87689618F4C9D824403D919E2C886@BOBSNEWPC> References: Message-ID: Kind of makes me wonder why you want to remove it in the first place? It its dried out and compromised then it makes sense but if it takes extreme measures of heat and force to remove it seems like its still doing the job and might be best left alone. IMHO of course, Dwayne > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > To: rclark at robertsonclark.com; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 16:52:29 -0400 > Subject: Re: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoat removal > > Nastiest job going and there's no easy way to do it. Heat and a scrapper > work as does some industrial strength strippers but it's slow messy work... _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with Microsofts powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141664/direct/01/ From tr6parts at charter.net Tue Oct 13 17:23:58 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 19:23:58 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] undercoating removal References: Message-ID: Try soaking a rag in laquer thinner. Place it on the undercoat; It will start to disolve. Cheers Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert N. Clark" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 6:14 PM Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] undercoating removal > Thanks to all for the input. Seems like I have been using most of the > right tools. I have been using all the protective gear. As Bob > Danielson mentioned, this stuff hides a plethora of both manufacturing > and age related issues. A few pinholes have appeared, but overall the > stuff did a good job of protecting the steel, especially where it has > remained in a semi-solid state. The wire wheel attachment for the drill > seems to be similar to the crud thug Gary mentioned. It works in some > spots but not in others and tends to strip the brittle stuff better than > that which is still soft. > > > > Any concerns when using the torch of applying too much heat? It seems > that fire is an indication that you have definitely applied enough to > scrape off the coating but does that cause any issues for the steel, > I.e. warping? > > > > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net From cgrimes at golden.net Tue Oct 13 19:49:40 2009 From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 21:49:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] !971 Alternator issues Message-ID: The dreaded prince of darkness strikes again I would appreciate input to solve I had a major short in the steering column (now repaired).this resulted in the brake warning light coming on whilst running 2500rpm. I asume the regulator is defective. The original regulator had two wires (Green and Yellow) to the brush connections and the case bolted to the frame of the alternator, I have a replacement with a yellow wire to connect to the Brush box ? , a black wire with a larger hole , does this connect to the alternator frame . the case of the unit is isolated in slots on the brush box ? I read of battery sensing etc . any help appreciated Colin From cgrimes at golden.net Tue Oct 13 21:16:40 2009 From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 23:16:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator v regulators Message-ID: <83B291E7E519471B8A0C7B648A9F744B@norman> i would appreciate clarification on connection of the v regulator to a 15acr Alternator the original its case bolted to the alternator frame with a wire to each brush holder. the new one " labelled JF04" has the case isolated (mounting in slots in the brush holder & secued at the top one yellow wire (to brush holder and second Black wire (larger connection tab connects to ?) probanly ground ?? Any clarification appreciated Colin From colinthom at shaw.ca Tue Oct 13 21:32:57 2009 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Tue, 13 Oct 2009 20:32:57 -0700 Subject: [6pack] undercoat removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000301ca4c7f$06161af0$124250d0$@ca> The 3M stripping wheels are the best but you pay for the privilege. And, don't forget to buy the mandrel you'll need to fit in your drill chuck. If you've already got an angle grinder then Vance's idea is a good one but if you don't have the grinder and don't particularly feel like owning one, then the 3M wheels will make you smile..and they're faster than a twisted wire brush, anyway. Colin Thom '75 From cgrimes at golden.net Wed Oct 14 04:16:54 2009 From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 06:16:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator regulator Message-ID: My original regulator appeared to have been fried due to a short in the streering column (now fixed), this had the case secured to the alternator frame and a connection to each armature brush. I have "jF04" regulator that mounts into slots with a yellow connection to the one brush & a metal link from the case to the other brush. When tested had great output but ??????? was overcharging unless i switched on all lights ? My thoughts are it is something to do with the orange wire from the B+ connection. I would appreciate guidance where to look ? Colin From cgrimes at golden.net Wed Oct 14 04:33:14 2009 From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 06:33:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Fw: Alternator v regulators Message-ID: <35D608BBA5414F23BE3C1E92AF316E56@norman> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin Grimes" To: "6pack" <> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 11:16 PM Subject: [6pack] Alternator v regulators >i would appreciate clarification on connection of the v regulator to a >15acr > Alternator > the original its case bolted to the alternator frame with a wire to each > brush > holder. the new one " labelled JF04" has the case isolated (mounting in > slots > in the brush holder & secued at the top one yellow wire (to brush holder > and > second Black wire (larger connection tab connects to ?) probanly ground ?? > Any clarification appreciated > Colin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as cgrimes at golden.net From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Oct 14 08:15:20 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 07:15:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] undercoating removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E23DB360@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Al: The rag, or the undercoat? =:-o Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Salvatore Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 4:24 PM To: Robert N. Clark; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [6-pack] undercoating removal Try soaking a rag in laquer thinner. Place it on the undercoat; It will start to disolve. Cheers Al From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Oct 14 08:47:02 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 14 Oct 2009 14:47:02 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Fw: Alternator v regulators In-Reply-To: <35D608BBA5414F23BE3C1E92AF316E56@norman> References: <35D608BBA5414F23BE3C1E92AF316E56@norman> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72FA52B12986@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Colin, the absence of a speedy response to questions posed to this list is an indication that either people don't understand the question or that you are going into uncharted territory like the innards of an alternator so there is a smaller pool of people that could help you and regrettably I'm not in that pool (or any other, it's freezing here). Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Colin Grimes Sent: Wednesday, October 14, 2009 6:33 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Fw: Alternator v regulators ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin Grimes" To: "6pack" <> Sent: Tuesday, October 13, 2009 11:16 PM Subject: [6pack] Alternator v regulators >i would appreciate clarification on connection of the v regulator to a >15acr > Alternator > the original its case bolted to the alternator frame with a wire to each > brush > holder. the new one " labelled JF04" has the case isolated (mounting in > slots > in the brush holder & secued at the top one yellow wire (to brush holder > and > second Black wire (larger connection tab connects to ?) probanly ground ?? > Any clarification appreciated > Colin From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Oct 15 10:12:09 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 11:12:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] OT - restaurant in Tyler, TX Message-ID: <81D9151C4475440CA0A23EFDDB6287F8@ranteer.local> hi, all. sorry to abuse the bandwidth. anyone know of a good, local (not chain) mexican restaurant? we'll be in Tyler for dinner tomorrow. thanks. From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Oct 15 10:34:46 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 12:34:46 EDT Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Conversion Brackets-new source-delete if you are not interested Message-ID: TR6 Owners Considering Miata Seat Conversion.......................... After discussions with List Members and Tony Drews: I think we have this sorted out......The late Uncle Jack's seat conversion kit will come to Iowa. We were producting the brackets for Uncle Jack, already, so this is a good fit. They are now processed, costed, and ready for production. The kit will contain Powder Coated Components, Hardware, Instructions and be packaged in a 4" x 4" x 20" carton. (Well done by Sean!) Advance Orders will be $60 including Shipping. Lead time will be about two weeks. Orders after that will have shipping $$$. Returns will be accepted. Contact is: alex3rail at mchsi.com This is Sean Alexander and he will be the source of the brackets. If there is a demand for TR3/TR4 conversions, he will look at those as a possible kit. I have no financial interest in this, but will help facilitate, as best that I can. Joe Alexander Thanks! From lee at automate-it.com Thu Oct 15 13:15:46 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 14:15:46 -0500 (CDT) Subject: [6pack] Miata seats for TR6 - have the brackets, need the seats In-Reply-To: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mai l.comcast.net> References: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Message-ID: <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> I have had the "uncle jack" brackets for some time now, and keep looking for Miata seats to finish the conversion. But no luck so far! Any hints about finding good seats? I looked at Bob Danielson's very nice page on overhauling a set of seats - I'd be happier if I found seats that were "good enough" to not require such extensive repair. I was betting that here in the Houston area I would be able to find good seats; we're pretty flush with junk yards in every direction. But so far (and I haven't really gone all out on my search) no luck. Also - I recall that the '90-'97 seats were the correct ones to fit; is my understanding correct? many thanks, Lee From 75teer6 at gmail.com Thu Oct 15 16:39:32 2009 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:39:32 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Miata seats for TR6 - have the brackets, need the seats In-Reply-To: <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0910151539j33db6c9ew7c9e14c90c31216d@mail.gmail.com> Lee, Is there a Miata Club in your area, and have you contacted them? Many Miata owners upgrade their cars/seats for competition or sprited driving and some may have good seats for sale. Henri 75 TR6, triple webers On Thu, Oct 15, 2009 at 1:15 PM, Lee Daniels wrote: > I have had the "uncle jack" brackets for some time now, and keep looking for > Miata seats to finish the conversion. But no luck so far! Any hints about > finding good seats? I looked at Bob Danielson's very nice page on overhauling > a set of seats - I'd be happier if I found seats that were "good enough" to > not require such extensive repair. I was betting that here in the Houston area > I would be able to find good seats; we're pretty flush with junk yards in > every direction. But so far (and I haven't really gone all out on my search) > no luck. > > Also - I recall that the '90-'97 seats were the correct ones to fit; is my > understanding correct? > > many thanks, > Lee > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Thu Oct 15 17:23:03 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 16:23:03 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster. Message-ID: <825614.19948.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> What's the best way to check the integrity of the brake booster? I tried sucking on it (no comments please) and was unable to get it to hold what little vacum I could provide. If it turns out that I need a new one what's the best place to get a rebuild nowdays? From forzion at maine.rr.com Thu Oct 15 18:54:47 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 20:54:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Message-ID: <4AD7C457.7050208@maine.rr.com> Hey List! Everyone loves a deep chrome shine and I've seen many fine examples of excellent chrome work on all sorts of show cars. What I am having a hard time locating is a reliable source of chrome plating (replating) for TR bumpers, (and assorted other parts) in the New England area. I have heard LOTS of horror stories: Price gouging, lost parts, swapped parts, sketchy business practices, looonnnggg lead times, etc. So, can anyone recommend a good New-England-area chrome plating house or is that a bit of an oxymoron, these days? Do I really HAVE to ship my parts off to Canada? Ever hopeful, Dave Friedlander '74 Six From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 15 21:34:47 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:34:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Miata seats for TR6 - have the brackets, need the seats In-Reply-To: <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <470746944.4468291255626674105.JavaMail.root@sz0119a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> <4888.192.246.38.159.1255634146.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <66ACB89D4C00473293E6F3C474E3C8CE@BOBSNEWPC> Lee, Go and post a request about seats on www.miata.net which is what I did. Then check out these guys www.btdtracing.com & www.isellmiataparts.com They told me they have a bunch of seats. Seeing as they're a race outfit, the seats may be in good shape having been removed for racing seats. I got my covers from Leatherseats.com and they differentiate between the '96 & '97 seats. They may be worth an email or call to see what the difference is. I was also told that the original fabric holds up very well and that fabric spray "paint" does a great job of making them look like new. But I do love the leather covers! What every your do...........go for the head rest speakers! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 3:16 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [TR] Miata seats for TR6 - have the brackets, need the seats I have had the "uncle jack" brackets for some time now, and keep looking for Miata seats to finish the conversion. But no luck so far! Any hints about finding good seats? I looked at Bob Danielson's very nice page on overhauling a set of seats - I'd be happier if I found seats that were "good enough" to not require such extensive repair. I was betting that here in the Houston area I would be able to find good seats; we're pretty flush with junk yards in every direction. But so far (and I haven't really gone all out on my search) no luck. Also - I recall that the '90-'97 seats were the correct ones to fit; is my understanding correct? many thanks, Lee This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 15 21:36:51 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:36:51 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster. In-Reply-To: <825614.19948.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <825614.19948.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <537515719D2F4016836845E01A654D73@BOBSNEWPC> I got my rebuilt servo from Ted Schumacher (http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/) for a very reasonable price. They're not listed on his site so you have to call him. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 7:23 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster. What's the best way to check the integrity of the brake booster? I tried sucking on it (no comments please) and was unable to get it to hold what little vacum I could provide. If it turns out that I need a new one what's the best place to get a rebuild nowdays? 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Oct 15 21:39:03 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 15 Oct 2009 23:39:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: <4AD7C457.7050208@maine.rr.com> References: <4AD7C457.7050208@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: Dave, USA regulations have driven the chrome re-plating process the ceiling........do you have deep pockets? Hopefully someone will have some recommendations for you. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 8:55 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Hey List! Everyone loves a deep chrome shine and I've seen many fine examples of excellent chrome work on all sorts of show cars. What I am having a hard time locating is a reliable source of chrome plating (replating) for TR bumpers, (and assorted other parts) in the New England area. I have heard LOTS of horror stories: Price gouging, lost parts, swapped parts, sketchy business practices, looonnnggg lead times, etc. So, can anyone recommend a good New-England-area chrome plating house or is that a bit of an oxymoron, these days? Do I really HAVE to ship my parts off to Canada? Ever hopeful, Dave Friedlander '74 Six 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Oct 16 06:49:49 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 8:49:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091016124950.KJNS6.661597.root@hrndva-web01-z01> Gary; Whoa! For $3500, I could get on a plane, buy my bumpers a seat on the plane next to me, then hand deliver them to someplace in Canada -- and maybe STILL come out ahead! Anyone used New England Chrome Plating (East Hartford, CT)? http://www.newenglandchrome.com/ Dave '74 Six ---- Gary S Fuqua wrote: > Dave, I can't help on one in New England but I can tell you that most > of the chrome shops are gone thanks to the EPA & all their > requirements that have driven the costs out of most people's budget. > I just had a few pieces done in Kansas City for a customer & the owner > of the shop there said that was the last job he was going to do. He > said he was just going to do media blasting & powder coating. I only > had front & rear bumpers done on a P 1800 Volvo & it was more than > $1000. For NON Show quality. Show quality was over $3500. > > Good luck in your search. > > Cheers, > > Gary Fuqua > Classic Sports Cars > Branson, MO > > Sent from my iPhone > > On Oct 15, 2009, at 7:54 PM, David Friedlander > wrote: > > > Hey List! > > > > Everyone loves a deep chrome shine and I've seen many fine examples > > of excellent chrome work on all sorts of show cars. What I am having > > a hard > > time locating is a reliable source of chrome plating (replating) for > > TR bumpers, > > (and assorted other parts) in the New England area. I have heard > > LOTS of > > horror stories: Price gouging, lost parts, swapped parts, sketchy > > business > > practices, looonnnggg lead times, etc. > > > > So, can anyone recommend a good New-England-area chrome plating > > house or is that a bit of an oxymoron, these days? Do I really HAVE to > > ship my parts off to Canada? > > > > Ever hopeful, > > > > Dave Friedlander > > '74 Six > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as gsfuqua1 at aol.com From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Oct 16 07:38:56 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:38:56 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Message-ID: <29062337-1255700535-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1413128870-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> The EPA and OSHA got them. I'm in AL and had to send my bumpers to CA to get good work at a decent price. Who would of thunk it? CA of all states. Lou ------Original Message------ From: Bob Danielson Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: forzion at maine.rr.com To: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Sent: Oct 15, 2009 10:39 PM Dave, USA regulations have driven the chrome re-plating process the ceiling........do you have deep pockets? Hopefully someone will have some recommendations for you. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 8:55 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Hey List! Everyone loves a deep chrome shine and I've seen many fine examples of excellent chrome work on all sorts of show cars. What I am having a hard time locating is a reliable source of chrome plating (replating) for TR bumpers, (and assorted other parts) in the New England area. I have heard LOTS of horror stories: Price gouging, lost parts, swapped parts, sketchy business practices, looonnnggg lead times, etc. So, can anyone recommend a good New-England-area chrome plating house or is that a bit of an oxymoron, these days? Do I really HAVE to ship my parts off to Canada? Ever hopeful, Dave Friedlander '74 Six 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Oct 16 08:25:32 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:25:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091016142533.3T6QQ.334390.root@hrndva-web05-z01> Thanks, Robert; Looks like Nu-Chrome is still there! http://www.nu-chrome.com/index.htm I'll check it out! Powder-coating can come out looking like chrome plate?? Dave ---- "Robert M. Lang" wrote: > Hi, > > It's easy to criticize the EPA and all that, the truth is - chrome plating > is nasty business from several perspectives. I used to go to chrome shops > where they had guys running buffers and they were wearing absolutely no > protection whatsoever. I'm certain that there were lots of cases of upper > respiratory problems with those workers! The heavy metal dust is just one > problem. All the vats have wicked nasty stuff in them. > > But the bottom line is that most _states_ have clamped down on these > joints. In the late 80's to early 90's, virtually all the plating business > left MA because the state created a trust fund for waste cleanup from > abadonned plating factories. The last plating I had in MA (90-ish), the > shop wanted close to 2X the price I had paid for the same job only about 2 > years prior. After that, a lot of the shops closed and moved to RI or CT. > There was one in MA called NuChrome, Fall River, I think, and he was > pretty good. He even DELIVERED my completed parts to me for no delivery > charge. But I heard his business is in trouble mostly due to what appears > to be a poor business plan. I think he'd planned on his son taking over > and the son was either incompetent or uninterested... either way, he > started having probs delivering completed jobs as of a few years ago. Not > sure if that's turned around. > > But the answer to your question is that you're likely going to have so > send your stuff out to get the plating done. > > If you're not going for concours... what about powder-coating?? > > Also, check with the street rod crowd - they're still pretty big on > chrome. Custom bikes are too. But some of those guys are insane and they > don't think twice about dropping $25k on chrome for a project. Really! > > Good luck! > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent > 2009 NER Solo Chair | > Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Oct 16 08:37:36 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:37:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: <20091016142533.3T6QQ.334390.root@hrndva-web05-z01> References: <20091016142533.3T6QQ.334390.root@hrndva-web05-z01> Message-ID: On Fri, 16 Oct 2009, Dave wrote: > Thanks, Robert; No prob. > Looks like Nu-Chrome is still there! > > http://www.nu-chrome.com/index.htm > > I'll check it out! Yes, but you need to check for some current references with that vendor. > Powder-coating can come out looking like chrome plate?? No, it cannot. But in the absence of a reasonable cost (or access) to quality chrome plating, alternatives should be at least "checked out". --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From jmcoh at comcast.net Fri Oct 16 08:58:28 2009 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 10:58:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: <20091016124950.KJNS6.661597.root@hrndva-web01-z01> References: <20091016124950.KJNS6.661597.root@hrndva-web01-z01> Message-ID: <002c01ca4e71$1ef2cca0$5cd865e0$@net> Dave, I have heard from others that they do decent work but have never used them. I have used Nu-Chrome of Fall River MA and do not recommend them. If you do a Google search you will see tons of complaints every one of which I have experienced. One of the issues with the late model TR6 bumper is the steel bar inside the bumper. Not sure if they had the same steel piece in the late 74 or not but this makes re-chroming difficult,. The steel reinforcing bar makes it very difficult to repair the outside skin from inside and it needs to be removed to do a proper job. The welds need to be ground out and this will increase the cost and time. I had one company, Keystone, send my bumper back to me due to the steel bar, they could not work on it. John Cohen Rutland, VT 76 TR6 http://www.triumphowners.com/701 Anyone used New England Chrome Plating (East Hartford, CT)? http://www.newenglandchrome.com/ Dave '74 Six From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Oct 16 09:12:49 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:12:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: <002c01ca4e71$1ef2cca0$5cd865e0$@net> Message-ID: <20091016151249.3CGDT.335789.root@hrndva-web05-z01> Thanks for the heads-up, John. Valuable information! I have scoured Maine, Vermont, and New Hampshire, so far, for automotive plating sources and have come up empty. Looks like the focus is now on Rhode Island, Mass. and Connecticut. Hopefully, SOMETHING legitimate will turn up not having a litany of tales of woe.... Thanks, List, for any responses! Dave '74-Six ---- John Cohen wrote: > Dave, > I have heard from others that they do decent work but have never used them. > I have used Nu-Chrome of Fall River MA and do not recommend them. If you do > a Google search you will see tons of complaints every one of which I have > experienced. One of the issues with the late model TR6 bumper is the steel > bar inside the bumper. Not sure if they had the same steel piece in the > late 74 or not but this makes re-chroming difficult,. The steel reinforcing > bar makes it very difficult to repair the outside skin from inside and it > needs to be removed to do a proper job. The welds need to be ground out and > this will increase the cost and time. I had one company, Keystone, send my > bumper back to me due to the steel bar, they could not work on it. > > John Cohen > Rutland, VT > 76 TR6 > http://www.triumphowners.com/701 > > > > Anyone used New England Chrome Plating (East Hartford, CT)? > http://www.newenglandchrome.com/ > > Dave > '74 Six From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Oct 16 09:35:25 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:35:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Chrome platers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091016153525.TUXQN.336420.root@hrndva-web05-z01> Thanks, Bill. Very interesting. Wish I knew someone who actually had parts done there... When you looked into it, they were willing to do parts like bumpers? Dave ---- "Couzelis wrote: > Hi Dave, > I live in East Longmeadow, MA. I looked into getting some chrome > plating done for some parts for my TR. There is a local business that > does plating for their parts in production (they have nothing to do with > cars). But they do plating for others as an additional business. I > ended up not doing it because my parts were aluminum, but I think they > do good work. I'd give them a call. > > Excel Dryer, Inc. > 357 Chestnut Street > East Longmeadow, MA 01028 > > 413-525-4531 > > Good Luck! > > Bill Couzelis > > E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the > addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the > intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please > immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you > are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or > storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Oct 16 09:37:35 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:37:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: <29062337-1255700535-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1413128870-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <20091016153735.WW46H.336475.root@hrndva-web05-z01> Thanks, Lou. It might come to that for me, too, but that wouldn't be my first choice unless I REALLY knew the shop/owner and had a good feeling about it. From what I've heard from so many, at best this is a crap shoot. Dave ---- wrote: > The EPA and OSHA got them. I'm in AL and had to send my bumpers to CA to get good work at a decent price. Who would of thunk it? CA of all states. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: Bob Danielson > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: forzion at maine.rr.com > To: TR-6 list > Subject: Re: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? > Sent: Oct 15, 2009 10:39 PM > > Dave, > USA regulations have driven the chrome re-plating process the > ceiling........do you have deep pockets? Hopefully someone will have some > recommendations for you. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of David Friedlander > Sent: Thursday, October 15, 2009 8:55 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? > > Hey List! > > Everyone loves a deep chrome shine and I've seen many fine examples of > excellent chrome work on all sorts of show cars. What I am having a hard > time locating is a reliable source of chrome plating (replating) for TR > bumpers, (and assorted other parts) in the New England area. I have heard > LOTS of horror stories: Price gouging, lost parts, swapped parts, sketchy > business practices, looonnnggg lead times, etc. > > So, can anyone recommend a good New-England-area chrome plating house or is > that a bit of an oxymoron, these days? Do I really HAVE to ship my parts off > to Canada? > > Ever hopeful, > > Dave Friedlander > '74 Six > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Oct 16 09:39:49 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:39:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Message-ID: <1646364213-1255707595-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1181590976-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Depending on what it will cost to replate there is a stainless steel set available now and people that have bought them rave about them. You might want to search the 6-PACK website for stainless steel bumpers or chrome platers to get more info. There are pictures and prices on there as well on some of the posts. Lou ------Original Message------ From: John Cohen Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: 'Dave' Cc: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Sent: Oct 16, 2009 9:58 AM Dave, I have heard from others that they do decent work but have never used them. I have used Nu-Chrome of Fall River MA and do not recommend them. If you do a Google search you will see tons of complaints every one of which I have experienced. One of the issues with the late model TR6 bumper is the steel bar inside the bumper. Not sure if they had the same steel piece in the late 74 or not but this makes re-chroming difficult,. The steel reinforcing bar makes it very difficult to repair the outside skin from inside and it needs to be removed to do a proper job. The welds need to be ground out and this will increase the cost and time. I had one company, Keystone, send my bumper back to me due to the steel bar, they could not work on it. John Cohen Rutland, VT 76 TR6 http://www.triumphowners.com/701 Anyone used New England Chrome Plating (East Hartford, CT)? http://www.newenglandchrome.com/ Dave '74 Six _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Oct 16 09:40:14 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:40:14 EDT Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? .....- Dubuque, Iowa AIH Message-ID: Since 'show' quality can involve intensive labor, some of this stuff slips over the border to Mexico. There is a plater in Dubuque, Iowa that does excellent production plating for Harley Davidson et. al. but has retained 'one off' stuff in a little room by itself. I think the quote on my rather pristine TR3/TR4 Valve Cover was somewhere between $200-300. It is AIH and they are on Kerper BLVD in Dubuque, Iowa. There are folks that will not send there work anywhere else after doing business with them. If I ever plate that Valve Cover of mine, I will go there. It is flawless work and there is no concern about a fly by night operation. The specialty stuff was where they started and they wanted to retain this operation, but the cost of preparation is high. They say the plating is minor by comparison. Joe A > The EPA and OSHA got them. I'm in AL and had to send my bumpers to CA to > get good work at a decent price. Who would of thunk it? CA of all states. > > Lou From emanteno at gmail.com Fri Oct 16 10:35:22 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:35:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? In-Reply-To: <1646364213-1255707595-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1181590976-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1646364213-1255707595-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1181590976-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <354a1780910160935i7f4cf0a2rcb2815a821272179@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Oct 16, 2009 at 10:39 AM, wrote: > Depending on what it will cost to replate there is a stainless steel set > available now and people that have bought them rave about them. > > You might want to search the 6-PACK website for stainless steel bumpers or > chrome platers to get more info. There are pictures and prices on there as > well on some of the posts. > They are also regularly listed on Ebay. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Oct 16 10:56:50 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 12:56:50 EDT Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? stainless vs chrome Message-ID: Stainless steel is marvelous stuff and can be polished to almost chrome-like finish. I do a lot of stuff in stainless. One is the windshield tenon plates on the TR3. They are polished to high degree and mostly covered, anyway. Untold from OEM part and much less cost in replacement or replating. Joe A > Depending on what it will cost to replate there is a stainless steel set > available now and people that have bought them rave about them. > > You might want to search the 6-PACK website for stainless steel bumpers or > chrome platers to get more info. There are pictures and prices on there as > well on some of the posts. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: John Cohen > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: 'Dave' > Cc: TR-6 list > Subject: Re: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? > Sent: Oct 16, 2009 9:58 AM From TRsick at aol.com Fri Oct 16 11:29:22 2009 From: TRsick at aol.com (TRsick at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:29:22 EDT Subject: [6pack] Chrome plating. Message-ID: Dave: I may not be able to tell you were in New England to go. But for sure can tell you where NOT to go. Stay away from... Nu-Chrome in Fall River (tons & tons of horror stories from losing parts to crappy work, looong wait times & high prices). New England Chrome plating in Ct. Same stories as Nu-Chrome. I have had first hand issues with both. IMO, Nu-Chrome is the worst of the 2 but that is not a compliment. I know the owners son was trying to turn things around for Nu-Chrome, but not much has changed as of yet. I am in the powder coating business. I do have powders that are called "Chrome", but IMO it really looks more like nickel plate rather than "show quality" chrome plate. Nothing is as nice as a real good chrome job. The chrome powder is a less expensive alternative. But I don't think anyone would be fooled to think the chrome powder was real chrome. I also have had problems with "The Bumper Boy's" work. And since then I do not refer any chrome shops to any of my customers. As I have been burnt by doing so. I think the best advise you got, is to get a referral from a good motorcycle custom shop & ask who they use. It seems to me, most of the best chrome work is being done in Ca. Although I have no knowledge of the work being done in Canada. Bob From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Fri Oct 16 11:48:48 2009 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:48:48 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Message-ID: <47579805A8CF475C8037AAAE1ADC0379@Jerry2> Dave I've used New England Chrome with good results. Both bumpers, gas cap, front badge was about $1200 but that was 5 years ago. They do good work, with the usual three layers of metal - nickle, copper, chrome - I think in that order. Whether the result is concourse grade, I don't know nor care. It looks pretty good to me and certainly better than stock. I recently had them do my speedo and tach bezels for $90. They charge what they say they will and deliver on time. If you send them a photo, they'll give you a quote over the phone or email. As to the environmental issues, yes, hexavalent chrome is the most insideous, lethal, industrial contaminant ever devised by man, and the plating shops have special processors that come and take the waste away for special chemical treatment. This stuff is what Pacific Gas and Electric dumped into the water supply of several hundred people in Hinkley, California, a story popularized by the movie Erin Brokovich. See http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pacific_Gas_and_Electric_Company#The_legal_case_ in_Hinkley_.281993-1996.29 So, enjoy the deep luster of a well chromed bumper, and be happy that the EPA is protecting us and our kids. Jerry '74 TR6 Mallard Green in Connecticut Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 8:49:49 -0400 From: Dave Subject: Re: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? To: Gary S Fuqua Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Message-ID: <20091016124950.KJNS6.661597.root at hrndva-web01-z01> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8 Gary; Whoa! For $3500, I could get on a plane, buy my bumpers a seat on the plane next to me, then hand deliver them to someplace in Canada -- and maybe STILL come out ahead! Anyone used New England Chrome Plating (East Hartford, CT)? http://www.newenglandchrome.com/ Dave '74 Six ---- Gary S Fuqua wrote: > Dave, I can't help on one in New England but I can tell you that most > of the chrome shops are gone thanks to the EPA & all their > requirements that have driven the costs out of most people's budget. > I just had a few pieces done in Kansas City for a customer & the owner > of the shop there said that was the last job he was going to do. He > said he was just going to do media blasting & powder coating. I only > had front & rear bumpers done on a P 1800 Volvo & it was more than > $1000. For NON Show quality. Show quality was over $3500. > > Good luck in your search. > > Cheers, > > Gary Fuqua > Classic Sports Cars > Branson, MO From sumton at sbcglobal.net Fri Oct 16 11:47:55 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 12:47:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? References: <1646364213-1255707595-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1181590976-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <9020C2A4A75445148C809BF1BDBF7EC6@ranteer.local> ceramic coating may be an option. it can be highly polished. not a problem for bumpers, but they will not/cannot do pot metal From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Fri Oct 16 12:09:01 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 11:09:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Brake Booster/carb needles Message-ID: <564485.60411.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Someone (besides me) asked recently about where to get a brake booster rebuilt. I just ordered one from Ted Schumacher at http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/ for $125 plus shipping. NFI but Ted's one of the good guys who support our British Car disease. Thanks to Bob Danielson and the ever racy Bob Lang for their suggestions re Ted.. In a related matter I previously asked for suggestions re the lurching I had in my car after an engine rebuild, .20 over pistons, new S2 cam, ported and polished intake and exhaust and 10/1 compression ratio. Vance Naverette shggested that the problem could be related to too much vacum leaking through the charcoal canister. I blocked the hose from the carbs/valve cover at the charcoal canister and the lurching was considerably reduced. Subsequently I have recently experienced a mysterious miss in which the engine sometimes dies when I turn a corner. Initially I thought it was a fuel supply issue but I now believe it is related to a major vacum leak from the bad booster coupled with the fact that I am usually on the brakes when I begin to turn a corner. Vance's also came up with a link to a site with an epissal on how to read spark plugs, an amazingly enlightening article (sorry I don't have the link at the moment). This article convinced me that I need slightly richer carb needles for my new setup which I have ordered from Joe Curto. Hope I haven't bored you all with this but I thought I would share the results of the great suggestions I got from guys on our net. Thanks to everyone. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 From ron at rvar.net Fri Oct 16 12:15:09 2009 From: ron at rvar.net (ron) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 13:15:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? References: <1646364213-1255707595-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1181590976-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <354a1780910160935i7f4cf0a2rcb2815a821272179@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: We use a company out of Houston. Superior Chrome Plating has done an excellent job on all of our plating and we just received back 9 - TR6 taillight housings which look great.They charged $50 each for them. www.justchromeit.com Ron www.rvar.net ----- Original Message ----- From: "Irv Korey" To: Cc: "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 11:35 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? > On Fri, Oct 16, 2009 at 10:39 AM, wrote: > >> Depending on what it will cost to replate there is a stainless steel set >> available now and people that have bought them rave about them. >> >> You might want to search the 6-PACK website for stainless steel bumpers >> or >> chrome platers to get more info. There are pictures and prices on there >> as >> well on some of the posts. >> > > They are also regularly listed on Ebay. > > Irv Korey > 74 TR6 CF22767U > Highland Park, IL > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rgh at vvm.com From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Oct 16 13:03:54 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 15:03:54 EDT Subject: [6pack] Where have all the platers gone? Message-ID: Dave, I have not used them in a long time but I currently have my TR250 Valve cover with them so I should know in a few weeks. Here in OHIO the best is CustomChrome Plating, in Grafton, Ohio _http://www.customchromeplating.com/_ (http://www.customchromeplating.com/) Darrell In a message dated 10/15/2009 9:46:11 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, forzion at maine.rr.com writes: So, can anyone recommend a good New-England-area chrome plating house or is that a bit of an oxymoron, these days? Do I really HAVE to ship my parts off to Canada? Ever hopeful, Dave Friedlander '74 Six From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Fri Oct 16 13:25:39 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 12:25:39 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Chrome Replating Options Message-ID: <899332.16865.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Canada eh! Check out www.albertaplating.com I've seen their work - nice stuff. They advertise as triple plating show chrome specialists, and, happy to serve USA customers. Cheers, Bruce Simms A long way from anyplace that's warm today! Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Fri Oct 16 21:02:44 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 20:02:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Got a problem Message-ID: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Folks, I have a very serious problem. There used to be an outfit called Triple C that printed TR6 tee shirts. I have maybe 8 of them but it's time to refill because I wear them all the time and they are falling apart. I can't find Triple C anywhere. Used to be that the VTR had a list of parts suppliers and other suppliers on their site but it's gone. I NEED SOME SHIRTS!!Can you point me in the right direction?John Summers From shawn.loseke at gmail.com Fri Oct 16 22:53:50 2009 From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke) Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 22:53:50 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Got a problem In-Reply-To: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0910162153q13c2817yca5f49d1c9e3366c@mail.gmail.com> http://www.triple-c.com/index.cfm How hard did you look? It was the first hit on a google search of "triple c". > Folks, I have a very serious problem. There used to be an outfit called > Triple C that printed TR6 tee shirts. I have maybe 8 of them but it's time to > refill because I wear them all the time and they are falling apart. I can't > find Triple C anywhere. Used to be that the VTR had a list of parts suppliers > and other suppliers on their site but it's gone. I NEED SOME SHIRTS!!Can you > point me in the right direction?John Summers From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 17 05:57:40 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 07:57:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Got a problem In-Reply-To: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I bought 2 shirts from then at the British Invasion this year. A quick Google turns up http://www.triple-c.com Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Summers Sent: Friday, October 16, 2009 11:03 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Got a problem Folks, I have a very serious problem. There used to be an outfit called Triple C that printed TR6 tee shirts. I have maybe 8 of them but it's time to refill because I wear them all the time and they are falling apart. I can't find Triple C anywhere. Used to be that the VTR had a list of parts suppliers and other suppliers on their site but it's gone. I NEED SOME SHIRTS!!Can you point me in the right direction?John Summers 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Sat Oct 17 06:39:21 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Sat, 17 Oct 2009 08:39:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Got a problem In-Reply-To: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <3A681899-865C-4B37-A7F1-29C51D1CF0FC@blakedischer.com> On Oct 16, 2009, at 11:02 PM, John Summers wrote: > Used to be that the VTR had a list of parts suppliers > and other suppliers on their site but it's gone. Hi John, Gone? Not at all. I suspect you mean this page, found under RESOURCES on the home page, then TRIUMPH LINKS. Triple C is the 12th from the bottom, organized alphabetically for your convenience. http://vtr.org/other-links.shtml ________________________________________________________________________ Blake J. Discher, President VINTAGE TRIUMPH REGISTER From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Sun Oct 18 17:59:47 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 18:59:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] LED Flashers Message-ID: I installed LED lights to replace my tail/brake light bulbs. They are great! Really bright and easy swap. I got them from Litezupp. I want to get the amber LED flashers, but I'm told there might be a problem with the flasher switch since the LED doesn't have enough amperage to activate the flasher switch. Has anyone found a flasher switch that works with these? Thanks All, Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From lfm614 at aol.com Sun Oct 18 18:24:56 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 00:24:56 +0000 Subject: [6pack] LED Flashers Message-ID: <1815179485-1255911904-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1352501565-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> They make a replacement flasher for the LEDs, the places that sell the automotive bulbs usually sell them too. I have been considering the swap to LED bulbs to get more brightness, what bulb numbers did you use? How many LED are they? Flat or 360? Lou ------Original Message------ From: Couzelis,William M. Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] LED Flashers Sent: Oct 18, 2009 6:59 PM I installed LED lights to replace my tail/brake light bulbs. They are great! Really bright and easy swap. I got them from Litezupp. I want to get the amber LED flashers, but I'm told there might be a problem with the flasher switch since the LED doesn't have enough amperage to activate the flasher switch. Has anyone found a flasher switch that works with these? Thanks All, Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Oct 19 06:32:16 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 12:32:16 +0000 Subject: [6pack] LED Flashers In-Reply-To: <1815179485-1255911904-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1352501565-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1815179485-1255911904-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1352501565-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: Hey, My brother put yellow-360 LEDs in his TR and did not have to swap the flasher. I thought he would have needed to, but maybe he already had a 'heavy duty' flasher, or whatever is necessary. Try before you swap it. We both have the red-360 bulbs in the stop/tail and love them. You must get the 360 bulbs or you don't get any brightness at all. He has also worked to improve the reflective surface in his lamps. He tried chrome paint, but someone at a show told him that he needs to get silver HVAC tape. I personally don't think the yellow bulbs are necessary, as the TRs have nice big yellow turn signals. It's just those tiny and dim brake lamps I wanted to improve. Just my opinion. We found the 360 bulbs at a great price on e-bay. Sloane :) 69-6 > To: William.Couzelis at CNA.com; 6pack at autox.team.net > From: lfm614 at aol.com > Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 00:24:56 +0000 > Subject: Re: [6pack] LED Flashers > > They make a replacement flasher for the LEDs, the places that sell the automotive bulbs usually sell them too. > > I have been considering the swap to LED bulbs to get more brightness, what bulb numbers did you use? How many LED are they? Flat or 360? > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: Couzelis,William M. > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: TR-6 list > Subject: [6pack] LED Flashers > Sent: Oct 18, 2009 6:59 PM > > I installed LED lights to replace my tail/brake light bulbs. They are > great! Really bright and easy swap. I got them from Litezupp. I want > to get the amber LED flashers, but I'm told there might be a problem > with the flasher switch since the LED doesn't have enough amperage to > activate the flasher switch. Has anyone found a flasher switch that > works with these? > Thanks All, > > Bill Couzelis _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Free, trusted and rich email service. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222984/direct/01/ From dc_bruin at hotmail.com Mon Oct 19 10:49:50 2009 From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 09:49:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Got a problem In-Reply-To: <3ea26c6b0910162153q13c2817yca5f49d1c9e3366c@mail.gmail.com> References: <595837.45297.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Off topic and not meant as a flame to the original poster but I came across a site for situations like this: http://www.lmgtfy.com/?q=triple-c > Date: Fri, 16 Oct 2009 22:53:50 -0600 > From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com > To: rivers2hills at yahoo.com > CC: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Got a problem > > http://www.triple-c.com/index.cfm > > How hard did you look? It was the first hit on a google search of "triple c". > > _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Oct 19 18:22:23 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 19 Oct 2009 20:22:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] LED Flashers In-Reply-To: <1815179485-1255911904-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1352501565-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1815179485-1255911904-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1352501565-@bda601.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <9F56B6E47DB54344A3CA182CABD690C3@Robert> I was looking at this website. Quite expensive, but looks like it works well. No financial interest. http://www.classicautoleds.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] Sent: Sunday, October 18, 2009 8:25 PM To: Couzelis,William M.; TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] LED Flashers They make a replacement flasher for the LEDs, the places that sell the automotive bulbs usually sell them too. I have been considering the swap to LED bulbs to get more brightness, what bulb numbers did you use? How many LED are they? Flat or 360? Lou ------Original Message------ From: Couzelis,William M. Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Subject: [6pack] LED Flashers Sent: Oct 18, 2009 6:59 PM I installed LED lights to replace my tail/brake light bulbs. They are great! Really bright and easy swap. I got them from Litezupp. I want to get the amber LED flashers, but I'm told there might be a problem with the flasher switch since the LED doesn't have enough amperage to activate the flasher switch. Has anyone found a flasher switch that works with these? Thanks All, Bill Couzelis E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as trsix74 at comcast.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Oct 19 23:28:54 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 05:28:54 GMT Subject: [6pack] SLO Message-ID: Andy---I was asked what size tires and wheels you used when auto-xing your 250 at SLO. Would you oblige? Dick From george_loriot at hotmail.com Tue Oct 20 09:59:09 2009 From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 11:59:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: carb float settings? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Listers, I'm trying to send this again - without the original posting embedded - it bounced (twice) on size. I'm the guy who was going mad, since neither ignition nor gas changes kept the car from sputtering. It's running well now, thanks to all who replied. It seems to me that a 3K size limit for email is mighty small. George Loriot1976 TR5 From: george_loriot at hotmail.com To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: FW: [6pack] carb float settings? Date: Sun, 18 Oct 2009 11:27:09 -0400 Thanks to everyone with suggestions to prevent me from going mad. it finally worked, and I'm very grateful to all members of this terrific list. The question was: Lucas or Zenith? Turns out to be a little of each! Adjusting the distributor rotor drive gear by one tooth fixed the need to juggle caps/rotors and timing, but there was still misfiring when warm - due to tiny particles in the gas clogging up the (new and old) carb needles. Cleaning, extra filters, and resetting needles fixed that, at least for now. I suspect I'll need to go all the way back to the gas tank for complete fix. Sounds like a winter project. Thanks again to all listers who came to the rescue. George Loriot1976 TR6 > > #### original posting deleted due to message size (> 3K) Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. Sign up now. _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Tue Oct 20 10:01:13 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 09:01:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] For sale Message-ID: <004a01ca519e$8d949cd0$a8bdd670$@edu> All, It is with great sadness that I must sell my '72 TR6. A failing other car, a wife that can't (or won't) drive the 6, and economic considerations make it mandatory that I sell it to get cash for a down payment on something else. O/D, hardtop, Webers, 2 year old custom seat covers and door panels, 2 year old soft top, tube shocks, (I still have the lever arms in my garage), other stuff. I would like to get at least $6k. Contact me off list before I go the E-Bay route. Kevin Kevin McNelis K5KMC 575-571-7326 From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Oct 20 10:49:39 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 16:49:39 +0000 Subject: [6pack] For sale Message-ID: <913549827-1256057388-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1553980609-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Kevin, Hate to hear it, I have a 72. You should post it on 6-pack.org with pics. Lots of people looking there so I bet you get that or more depending on condition. Good luck, Lou ------Original Message------ From: Kevin McNelis Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Oct 20, 2009 11:01 AM Subject: [6pack] For sale All, It is with great sadness that I must sell my '72 TR6. A failing other car, a wife that can't (or won't) drive the 6, and economic considerations make it mandatory that I sell it to get cash for a down payment on something else. O/D, hardtop, Webers, 2 year old custom seat covers and door panels, 2 year old soft top, tube shocks, (I still have the lever arms in my garage), other stuff. I would like to get at least $6k. Contact me off list before I go the E-Bay route. Kevin Kevin McNelis K5KMC 575-571-7326 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Tue Oct 20 23:39:28 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Tue, 20 Oct 2009 22:39:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] electric or mechanical Message-ID: <357631.56971.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Since my tach cable somehow wrapped itself around my steering column a year ago and broke. And since the tach needle was only 1/4" long when I got the car 11 years ago I'm thinking about what to do. Should I replace just the cable? Or should I buy a new, modern tach? I don't want to pay big bucks for something that would be like original equipment. Actually the big dream is to replace all of the instruments and rearrange their placement. Something closer to eyesight for the speedo and small gauges. I rely more on the small gauges than I do the tach anyway. They tell me my car is "healthy" and with a 35 year old car that is more important to me than how fast I'm going. Another issue is driving lights. I have old rectangle Hella lights mounted on top of the bumper. They are a little big. Does anyone have any experience with the smaller lights you see in Pep Boys? One of which is LED. I have also seen cars with the thin maybe 2' light strips on the rear of the car. As we know we all need more luminance back there just to be seen. My idea is to attach the strip just under the lip of the trunk lid and attach it to the brake lights. Too ambitious? Certianly FOR ME it is but what about the idea?John SummersJacksonville From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Oct 21 05:54:08 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 11:54:08 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Red lens? Message-ID: Hi Y'all, This morning, on the way in, I lost the red lens that covers the little tin reflector. Does anybody have one in their junk box? It's on the left, but I assume they're the same. thanks, Sloane :) 69-Six _________________________________________________________________ Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ From forzion at maine.rr.com Wed Oct 21 06:44:02 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 8:44:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Red lens? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091021124402.PE3BY.6353.root@hrndva-web23-z01> Sloane; Can we assume you're referring to the rear side-marker lens? If so, according to http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/149.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 the left and right hand lenses are different (for some reason, the RH one costs more than the LH one).... The lens is held in place by two screws, no? Dave '74-Six ---- im sloane wrote: > Hi Y'all, > > This morning, on the way in, I lost the red lens that covers the little tin > reflector. Does anybody have one in their junk box? It's on the left, but I > assume they're the same. > > > > thanks, > > Sloane :) > > 69-Six > > _________________________________________________________________ > Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Oct 21 07:29:15 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 09:29:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Red lens? In-Reply-To: <20091021124402.PE3BY.6353.root@hrndva-web23-z01> Message-ID: <8CC20699E554065-D94-24B2@webmail-m062.sysops.aol.com> Dave, I believe he means the little lens that resides between your speedo and tach on your dash. Red in color and is one of two next to each other on the dash. Strange that it would fall out and disappear. Most likely after you have replaced it, the old one will show up. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: Dave To: 6pack at autox.team.net; im sloane Sent: Wed, Oct 21, 2009 8:44 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Red lens? Sloane; Can we assume you're referring to the rear side-marker lens? If so, according to http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/149.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 the left and right hand lenses are different (for some reason, the RH one costs more than the LH one).... The lens is held in place by two screws, no? Dave '74-Six ---- im sloane wrote: > Hi Y'all, > > This morning, on the way in, I lost the red lens that covers the little tin > reflector. Does anybody have one in their junk box? It's on the left, but I > assume they're the same. > > > > thanks, > > Sloane :) > > 69-Six > > _________________________________________________________________ > Your E-mail and More On-the-Go. Get Windows Live Hotmail Free. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/171222985/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Oct 21 08:53:23 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 14:53:23 +0000 Subject: [6pack] electric or mechanical In-Reply-To: <357631.56971.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <357631.56971.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280466EC@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> John, you should be able to source a good used tach for under $50. Re aux lighting, I think the early cars look better with the lamps above the bumper, the later cars with lamps below the bumper. I bought some small Cibie FOG lamps from a fellow club member a few years ago. These use H2 bulbs and they are fantastic. These lamps mounted low really light up the road ahead and don't seem to bother oncoming motorists. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/REDTR6/DSC_0007.jpg Rear LED strip for an additional brake light is a good idea. We are seeing more cars getting rear ended at intersections because people don't see them though the other distractions (phone, texting, shaving, eating, reading, poking at the GPS etc). I saw a nice thin LED strip that goes under a roll bar the other day (thanks again Dennis) http://www.jandlenterprise.com/products/brakelighter.htm If you have 10 mins to waste play this video and look for the Topaz TR6 with the hardtop, it has one of these strips installed. http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NETFallTour2009/?action=view ¤t=NET2009FallTourTake3.flv Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Summers Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 1:50 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] electric or mechanical Since my tach cable somehow wrapped itself around my steering column a year ago and broke. And since the tach needle was only 1/4" long when I got the car 11 years ago I'm thinking about what to do. Should I replace just the cable? Or should I buy a new, modern tach? I don't want to pay big bucks for something that would be like original equipment. Actually the big dream is to replace all of the instruments and rearrange their placement. Something closer to eyesight for the speedo and small gauges. I rely more on the small gauges than I do the tach anyway. They tell me my car is "healthy" and with a 35 year old car that is more important to me than how fast I'm going. Another issue is driving lights. I have old rectangle Hella lights mounted on top of the bumper. They are a little big. Does anyone have any experience with the smaller lights you see in Pep Boys? One of which is LED. I have also seen cars with the thin maybe 2' light strips on the rear of the car. As we know we all need more luminance back there just to be seen. My idea is to attach the strip just under the lip of the trunk lid and attach it to the brake lights. Too ambitious? Certianly FOR ME it is but what about the idea?John SummersJacksonville _______________________________________________ From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Oct 21 08:37:00 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:37:00 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Red lens? In-Reply-To: <20091021124402.PE3BY.6353.root@hrndva-web23-z01> References: <20091021124402.PE3BY.6353.root@hrndva-web23-z01> Message-ID: On Wed, 21 Oct 2009, Dave wrote: > Sloane; > > Can we assume you're referring to the rear side-marker lens? Nope. It's the reflector that goes between the amber light and the brake / running light. > If so, according to > http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/149.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 > the left and right hand lenses are different (for some reason, > the RH one costs more than the LH one).... > > The lens is held in place by two screws, no? Nope... it's glued in. He's talking about the reflector that fits onto part LU5458936/LU5458937 They fall out somewhat easily unless you stay on top of them. If they get loose, pull em off and re-glue. I use regular model cement. I'm pretty sure you used to be able to get just the part that falls out, but I do not think that is the case anymore. > Dave > '74-Six regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Oct 21 09:13:58 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:13:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] electric or mechanical References: <357631.56971.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280466EC@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <1C60EC31ED6546F6BD42710C425FBBBD@ranteer.local> rather than the led strip, there is a guy who makes really, really bright tail/brake lights. i've got them on several cars and think they really help. http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Automotive_Lighting.html scroll down on Brian's blog, and you can see them http://brianjones.tumblr.com:80/ > > Rear LED strip for an additional brake light is a good idea. We are seeing > more cars getting rear ended at intersections because people don't see > them > though the other distractions (phone, texting, shaving, eating, reading, > poking at the GPS etc). I saw a nice thin LED strip that goes under a roll > bar > the other day (thanks again Dennis) From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Oct 21 10:59:39 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 16:59:39 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Red lens? In-Reply-To: References: <20091021124402.PE3BY.6353.root@hrndva-web23-z01> Message-ID: Hi guys, Sorry, I didn't mean to make such an ambiguous request. Thanks Bob. Yes I mean the little reflector lens on the tail light assembly. The small reflector lens isn't even sold separately from the tail/brake lens. I believe they're identical left and right, but this is on my left/drivers side. Again, please let me know if you have one in the junk box you could part with. Sloane :) 69-Six > > On Wed, 21 Oct 2009, Dave wrote: > > > Sloane; > > > > Can we assume you're referring to the rear side-marker lens? > > Nope. > > It's the reflector that goes between the amber light and the brake / > running light. > _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ From apackard68 at att.net Wed Oct 21 11:05:50 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 10:05:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Suspension adjustments/Ride height Message-ID: <279176.44189.qm@web83804.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hello list: Even before my Rat-co frame-off restoration, my car sat slightly lower (3/4") on the driver's side than the passenger side. Spring swapping did not solve this. Currently, I have shortened springs all the way around with 1/2" spacers in the rear only. In order to get things level, I am planning to remove the spacer in the R rear, and add a 1/2" spacer in the L front. I'm assuming this will not have an adverse effect on my suspension uniformity. I will go over the suspension installation first, looking for errors, but I cannot imagine having it wrong after all the detailed work I've done. Do you think my approach would cause any other peripheral problems? I'm thinking that if I can get the car level and the spring heights and rates are the same on both sides, the spacers wouldn't have a negative impact. Your opinions are invited and welcome. Andy CD6746L From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Oct 21 12:22:38 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 18:22:38 +0000 Subject: [6pack] electric or mechanical In-Reply-To: <1C60EC31ED6546F6BD42710C425FBBBD@ranteer.local> References: <357631.56971.qm@web36203.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280466EC@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> <1C60EC31ED6546F6BD42710C425FBBBD@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280476CD@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Totally agree re the brighter LED tail lights, ordered a set myself the other day when I saw the original post here. I do think the higher mounted LED strip is helpful as I think part of the visibility issue is because we are so low to the ground compared to everything else. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 11:31 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] electric or mechanical rather than the led strip, there is a guy who makes really, really bright tail/brake lights. i've got them on several cars and think they really help. http://www.litezupp.com/Litezupp.Com/Automotive_Lighting.html scroll down on Brian's blog, and you can see them http://brianjones.tumblr.com:80/ > > Rear LED strip for an additional brake light is a good idea. We are seeing > more cars getting rear ended at intersections because people don't see > them > though the other distractions (phone, texting, shaving, eating, reading, > poking at the GPS etc). I saw a nice thin LED strip that goes under a roll > bar > the other day (thanks again Dennis) From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Oct 21 12:26:38 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 11:26:38 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Suspension adjustments/Ride height In-Reply-To: <279176.44189.qm@web83804.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <279176.44189.qm@web83804.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E24A647C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Andy: Are all your tires the same size? If you have a mixed set of brands, or (horrors!) mismatched sizes, you should correct this before doing anything drastic. Be aware that mixing brands, even though they are the same size, can get you into trouble. Same with tires that have significant differences in mileage. When you installed your RatCo frame, did you use new bushings in your rear trailing arms? This is far and away the most common source of leveling and sag issues on the car. The original bushings are highly stressed, and deform over time, letting the suspension settle with the driver side settling more due to the extra weight (in my case, CONSIDERABLE extra weight). If you replaced the bushings, did you use urethane? The new bushings from the big three do not seem to last very long, so urethane is preferred. If your back end is more level than your front end, then the front suspension is the place to look. You should verify that it is assembled correctly, as there are many ways to assemble the suspension, only one of which works. Your DPO could have assembled the front end incorrectly leading to leveling or camber issues. My bet is on your trailing arm bushings. My car leaned heavily to the left before replacing the bushings. I tried new springs. No dice. Do not juggle your trailing arm brackets or make any modifications until you are certain that your bushings are in perfect condition. Here is a neat little article on why bushings sag, and how to fix them. http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Packard Sent: Wednesday, October 21, 2009 10:06 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Suspension adjustments/Ride height Hello list: Even before my Rat-co frame-off restoration, my car sat slightly lower (3/4") on the driver's side than the passenger side. Spring swapping did not solve this. Andy CD6746L From rclark at robertsonclark.com Wed Oct 21 13:35:42 2009 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Wed, 21 Oct 2009 12:35:42 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] Undercoating removal Message-ID: Thanks again for all the input on removal of the undercoating. I have completely cleaned one inside wheel well and inner fender of the stuff and done mass removal on the other side. Heat was definitely the best thing to use to remove the bulk of the material. I used an electric paint removal gun on high and a flexible metal spatula with a slight curve to it. The curve helped scrape the radius of the wheel wells. To remove the remaining undercoating and primer, I used an Old Milwaukee 2 >" knot cup brush attached to my angle grinder for most of it and a Norton 80 grit flap disc I bought at home depo for some of the flat areas. The flap disc is more aggressive than the cup brush so I used it sparingly. The cup brush worked really well especially in corners and in seams. This is my fourth TR6 that I have done body work on but the first where I have gone after removal of this stuff. I thought I knew where all the usual suspects were for rust but by removing this, I think there is another. On the inner fender, just above the floor, there is a line of pinhole rust through spots that I doubt I would have found if I had not removed the undercoating or the interior padding over the rear wheel arches. I think this demonstrates that although this stuff can stick well in one spot and provide excellent protection, in others where it peels, it can actually trap moisture against the steel and cause rust. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com Thu Oct 22 07:12:48 2009 From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 09:12:48 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Anyone willing to go check out a car in the St. Paul area? Message-ID: I gotta warn you though - it isn't a Triumph. It'd have to be Thursday (today?) morning or Friday. Saturday is probably too late. Not looking for any sort of car expert, just someone to go start and drive the car and tell me what does and what doesn't work. Let me know if you are insterested . . . Thanks Scott Tilton -- Signature below blatantly stolen from Bud Rolofson: 70TR6 CC5#### (Good 6) 63TR4 CT157## (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 64TR4 CT25### (The Project) 97F-150 L TRUCKO (Triumph Support Vehicle) 1989 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (economic commuter Vehicle) -- Signature below blatantly stolen from Bud Rolofson: 70TR6 CC5#### (Good 6) 63TR4 CT157## (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 64TR4 CT25### (The Project) 97F-150 L TRUCKO (Triumph Support Vehicle) 1989 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (economic commuter Vehicle) From tr6parts at charter.net Thu Oct 22 18:11:03 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Thu, 22 Oct 2009 20:11:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 HE engine Message-ID: <376779806D6F43C4821CF79067B1FB3C@Alan> Is there any particular difference in the TR6 engine blocks marked HE , used I believe in 69. Also is there any difference in the Circle B head. Thanks , Al From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Oct 22 22:59:47 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 04:59:47 GMT Subject: [6pack] electric or mechanical Message-ID: John---I'd try spinning the tach by using a drill motor and a short length of what's left of the twisted cable. Cutting off about a foot of it should do, leaving enough of the actual cable for the drill motor chuck. If the (short) tach needle moves with the speed of the drill motor, it could still be OK. Then replacing the cable would have you back in business. (They're cheap) So far as the extra strip of brake lights, they're OK if mounted high enough, (on the top by the rear window on many), as the original concept was a couple of decades ago, from Detroit. One could see these brake lights glowing thru the rear windows, sometimes several cars ahead, allowing more reaction time. Having them on the same plane as the other brake lights doesn't really fill the bill. If you want more front end illumination and don't already have them, try replacing the original front lights with the Halogen style. Again, they're cheap, around $25 a pair, and brighten things up without making the car look like a Baja Bug. Dick From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Oct 23 08:23:59 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:23:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 HE engine In-Reply-To: <376779806D6F43C4821CF79067B1FB3C@Alan> References: <376779806D6F43C4821CF79067B1FB3C@Alan> Message-ID: On Thu, 22 Oct 2009, Al Salvatore wrote: > Is there any particular difference in the TR6 engine blocks marked HE , used I > believe in 69. HE is "High compression" "Engine". For US cars, that 8.5:1 > Also is there any difference in the Circle B head. Circle B is the foundry mark and Yes, there is at least one difference. Reportedly the Circle B castings are thicker than the other foundries. Of course, there's the early head and the late head, but that's not what you asked. > Thanks , > > Al c ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Oct 23 08:55:28 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 10:55:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] electric or mechanical In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, I meant to reply to this one yesterday... got sidetracked. Either that or I'm ADHD. What were we talking about? I have Mallory distributors in two TR6's. The model from Mallory hasn't had a mechanical tach drive for quite some time, probably 20 years or so. At any rate, I looked into "solutions" a while back and what I found was: 1. you can convert your Smiths tach to electrical. At least one place does this: APT Instruments in WI (I think), aka www.gaugeguys.com. They charge about $200 for the job, but your instrument comes back almost perfect. As we say in New England, they did a "wicked good job". 2. you can buy a racer-boy electric tach from $15 (or less if you go used) up to "the sky is the limit". More money does not necessarily equate to better for a bunch of reasons, but if you shop around you can find something reasonable (like no more than 8000 RPMs indicated and so forth). Some of the "classic" lines look okay in TR6, but that's a subjective preference. 3. you can buy real race-quality mechanical units, but most of them drive from the cam so you'd have to modify the front engine cover for one of these (like Jones in the Pegasus catalog). These are "really nice" tachs, but probably not cost-justified (think more than $400 installed). But the real answer depends on what you're looking for. If you just want something that moves when the thingie in front goes zoomazooma, then opt for the $15 solution. If you really want to know how many revs the mill was turning when the crank broke - spend the money and get a tach with replay or memory. :-) For reference, I have a $25 Sun 8000 rpm tach on the race car. I really wanted a memory recall, so I spent another $50 or so and bought a recall unit (that's yet to be installed after 5 years, but that's another story). On the street car I converted using APT Instruments. They do nove work and the turnaround was pretty quick, under 7 days door-to-door. I've have some probs with the conversion, but I'm 99% sure they're all of my doing. Just for reference, I'm pretty sure that all APT Instr. does is pull the guts from a Smiths electric tach that they sell new (it's smaller than our tachs), pull the needle, unscrew the works and swap over to the TR6 "face". If you study tachs closely, you'll see that the Smiths bolt pattern is the same for the large and small tachs. Oh well, enough for now. What were we talking about? rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Fri Oct 23 13:46:10 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 12:46:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Tach related question Message-ID: <775187.105.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> My " thingie in front" no longer "goes zoomazooma". Will ordering a new tach help? Mike Lunsford, in this case it doesn't matter what kind of British car I have. From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Fri Oct 23 13:45:31 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:45:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers Message-ID: Can anyone tell me where the indicator flasher switch is located in a 1971 TR-6? I see the Hazard flasher switch on the inner fender, but I can't locate the indicator flasher. Thanks Bill E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From emanteno at gmail.com Fri Oct 23 13:54:09 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 14:54:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <354a1780910231254k35a44acbqce236a52f7b6c424@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 2:45 PM, Couzelis,William M. < William.Couzelis at cna.com> wrote: > Can anyone tell me where the indicator flasher switch is located in a > 1971 TR-6? I see the Hazard flasher switch on the inner fender, but I > can't locate the indicator flasher. > On my 74, it is located inside the car, under the glove box, right side bulkhead. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Oct 23 13:55:34 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:55:34 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers Message-ID: <897123993-1256327744-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-842860370-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Passenger's side footwell outer side Lou ------Original Message------ From: Couzelis,William M. Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Oct 23, 2009 2:45 PM Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers Can anyone tell me where the indicator flasher switch is located in a 1971 TR-6? I see the Hazard flasher switch on the inner fender, but I can't locate the indicator flasher. Thanks Bill E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Oct 23 14:30:32 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 20:30:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers In-Reply-To: <897123993-1256327744-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-842860370-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <897123993-1256327744-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-842860370-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: I always figured it's the passenger's job to tell me the blinker is still on. Sloane :) 69-Six > To: William.Couzelis at CNA.com; 6pack at autox.team.net > From: lfm614 at aol.com > Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:55:34 +0000 > Subject: Re: [6pack] Indicator flashers > > Passenger's side footwell outer side > > Lou _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: It helps you do more. Explore Windows 7. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen3:102009 From 70tr6 at comcast.net Fri Oct 23 15:07:16 2009 From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:07:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tach related question In-Reply-To: <775187.105.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <775187.105.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200F7B98-DA3E-44E2-8FBA-589C1317B831@comcast.net> Nope, you need to ask your doctor for one of those little blue pills to fix that. Ashford Little 70tr6 at comcast.net On Oct 23, 2009, at 3:46 PM, michael lunsford wrote: > My " thingie in front" no longer "goes zoomazooma". Will ordering a > new tach > help? > > Mike Lunsford, in this case it doesn't matter what kind of British car > I have From 75teer6 at gmail.com Fri Oct 23 15:58:33 2009 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 15:58:33 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers In-Reply-To: References: <897123993-1256327744-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-842860370-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0910231458o13006a68ie205009707aa2fa4@mail.gmail.com> Because: I do not always have a passenger/messenger; The Turn indicator light in the instrument is small and dim; My turn stalk does not always return to the off position; And the ambient noise, sorry, sweet sound of the exhaust; I bought a heavy duty and louder flasher unit and, using wire extensions, I mounted it on the driver's side. It helps prevent leaving the flasher ON when it does not turn off automatically. Henri 75 TR6, triple webers On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 2:30 PM, im sloane wrote: > I always figured it's the passenger's job to tell me the blinker is still on. > > > > Sloane :) > > 69-Six > >> To: William.Couzelis at CNA.com; 6pack at autox.team.net >> From: lfm614 at aol.com >> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:55:34 +0000 >> Subject: Re: [6pack] Indicator flashers >> >> Passenger's side footwell outer side >> >> Lou > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows 7: It helps you do more. Explore Windows 7. > http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT > AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen3:102009 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Oct 23 16:08:08 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:08:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tach related question References: <775187.105.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <200F7B98-DA3E-44E2-8FBA-589C1317B831@comcast.net> Message-ID: <869249EFBE58473D9512F4F17DF0C433@Alan> One pill makes you larger And one pill makes you small And the ones that mother gives you Don't do anything at all :} Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at comcast.net> To: "michael lunsford" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 5:07 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Tach related question > Nope, you need to ask your doctor for one of those little blue pills > to fix that. > > > Ashford Little > 70tr6 at comcast.net > > > > On Oct 23, 2009, at 3:46 PM, michael lunsford wrote: > >> My " thingie in front" no longer "goes zoomazooma". Will ordering a >> new tach >> help? >> >> Mike Lunsford, in this case it doesn't matter what kind of British car >> I have > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net From trsix74 at comcast.net Fri Oct 23 16:22:45 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 18:22:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0910231458o13006a68ie205009707aa2fa4@mail.gmail.com> References: <897123993-1256327744-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-842860370-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <83dfea6b0910231458o13006a68ie205009707aa2fa4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <5ED52049F00C4417B9E021078078DF61@Robert> As your dim passenger seems not to get the message, does the flasher (hopefully female) get your attention? -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre Sent: Friday, October 23, 2009 5:59 PM To: im sloane; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Indicator flashers Because: I do not always have a passenger/messenger; The Turn indicator light in the instrument is small and dim; My turn stalk does not always return to the off position; And the ambient noise, sorry, sweet sound of the exhaust; I bought a heavy duty and louder flasher unit and, using wire extensions, I mounted it on the driver's side. It helps prevent leaving the flasher ON when it does not turn off automatically. Henri 75 TR6, triple webers On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 2:30 PM, im sloane wrote: > I always figured it's the passenger's job to tell me the blinker is still on. > > > > Sloane :) > > 69-Six > >> To: William.Couzelis at CNA.com; 6pack at autox.team.net >> From: lfm614 at aol.com >> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:55:34 +0000 >> Subject: Re: [6pack] Indicator flashers >> >> Passenger's side footwell outer side >> >> Lou > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows 7: It helps you do more. Explore Windows 7. > http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLM T > AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen3:102009 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as trsix74 at comcast.net From mdporter at dfn.com Fri Oct 23 17:52:51 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 17:52:51 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0910231458o13006a68ie205009707aa2fa4@mail.gmail.com> References: <897123993-1256327744-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-842860370-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <83dfea6b0910231458o13006a68ie205009707aa2fa4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4AE241D3.3030309@dfn.com> Henri Lefebvre wrote: > Because: > I do not always have a passenger/messenger; > The Turn indicator light in the instrument is small and dim; > My turn stalk does not always return to the off position; > And the ambient noise, sorry, sweet sound of the exhaust; > > I bought a heavy duty and louder flasher unit and, using wire > extensions, I mounted it on the driver's side. > > This is a much more common problem than just on cars with a lot of road noise. On the buses my former employers produced, there was a move to PAL chip-controlled electricals, mostly as a way to reduce the amount of wiring, but also as a selling point (quicker electrical problem diagnosis). When this was done, it virtually eliminated other electromechanical devices. While the switches (floor-mounted, press-on, press-off, similar to old-style dimmer switches) remained, they simply made or broke ground to a particular circuit in a nearby networked module, and other modules received signals from the communications network to power the turn indicator lights, all of it happening virtually silently. They discovered after a few weeks of having the buses in service that the agencies were getting lots of complaints from the public about buses never turning off turn signals, as motorists in adjacent lanes were a little spooked about passing them with the turn indicators on. The answer was to add audio feedback, since the dash turn indicator apparently wasn't enough for the bus drivers to notice. We just added an empty relay in the dash with relay coil power supplied by the left front turn circuit, so the relay would audibly click on and off with the turn indicator. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From emanteno at gmail.com Fri Oct 23 18:17:19 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:17:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tach related question In-Reply-To: <869249EFBE58473D9512F4F17DF0C433@Alan> References: <775187.105.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <200F7B98-DA3E-44E2-8FBA-589C1317B831@comcast.net> <869249EFBE58473D9512F4F17DF0C433@Alan> Message-ID: <354a1780910231717l5996b8a7yfb172ad903b572c5@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 5:08 PM, Al Salvatore wrote: > One pill makes you larger > And one pill makes you small > And the ones that mother gives you > Don't do anything at all And though she's not really ill, there's a little yellow pill, she goes running for the shelter of the mother's little helper. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From trmarty at hotmail.com Fri Oct 23 18:55:02 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 20:55:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tach related question In-Reply-To: <354a1780910231717l5996b8a7yfb172ad903b572c5@mail.gmail.com> References: <775187.105.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <200F7B98-DA3E-44E2-8FBA-589C1317B831@comcast.net> Message-ID: If the pills don't, work maybe I could interest you In a pair of zircon-encrusted tweezers? > > > One pill makes you larger > > And one pill makes you small > > And the ones that mother gives you > > Don't do anything at all > > > And though she's not really ill, > there's a little yellow pill, > she goes running for the shelter > of the mother's little helper. _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: It helps you do more. Explore Windows 7. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen3:102009 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sat Oct 24 10:21:00 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 12:21:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Body to frame pads Message-ID: <200910241221.00881.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hi, I just finished cleaning up the body mounting HW and was looking at the square and trapezoidal body mounting pads and noticed that there are steel pads as well as the rubber pads. Never encountered this on my previous 3 and 4 restorations. Looking at the TRF parts book, they list the parts but mention they are used as shims for door alignment. Well as you might have guessed, I have no idea of how many pads go on each side since I have 3 rectangular (front) pads and only 1 trapezoidal rear pad. The pads were removed last fall and I can't remember which are which. Will it be trial and error when I go to install the doors or is there some assumption I can make based on the list's experience? Don't know if it matters but this is a late 1972 TR6. Thanks, Bob From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Sat Oct 24 13:46:40 2009 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 12:46:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Indicator flashers In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0910231458o13006a68ie205009707aa2fa4@mail.gmail.com> References: <897123993-1256327744-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-842860370-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <83dfea6b0910231458o13006a68ie205009707aa2fa4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <29833.60190.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com> All Just as a side note to this thread. Since my TR6 is considered modified and I set up a different switch for the Hazard switch. This left the hole between the speedo and tach open. Once I disconnected the seat belt circuit, I took the label off this light housing, placed it in the center hole where it has better visability, and wired it into the turn signal circuit. Now it can be seen and no more I am an idiot - I am an idiot as I go down the road. Also I used the hole where the seat belt light came out of for the Hazard light, as it is used less frequent. Dale ________________________________ From: Henri Lefebvre <75teer6 at gmail.com> To: im sloane ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, October 23, 2009 5:58:33 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Indicator flashers Because: I do not always have a passenger/messenger; The Turn indicator light in the instrument is small and dim; My turn stalk does not always return to the off position; And the ambient noise, sorry, sweet sound of the exhaust; I bought a heavy duty and louder flasher unit and, using wire extensions, I mounted it on the driver's side. It helps prevent leaving the flasher ON when it does not turn off automatically. Henri 75 TR6, triple webers On Fri, Oct 23, 2009 at 2:30 PM, im sloane wrote: > I always figured it's the passenger's job to tell me the blinker is still on. > > > > Sloane :) > > 69-Six > >> To: William.Couzelis at CNA.com; 6pack at autox.team.net >> From: lfm614 at aol.com >> Date: Fri, 23 Oct 2009 19:55:34 +0000 >> Subject: Re: [6pack] Indicator flashers >> >> Passenger's side footwell outer side >> >> Lou > > _________________________________________________________________ > Windows 7: It helps you do more. Explore Windows 7. > http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT > AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen3:102009 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Sat Oct 24 14:00:10 2009 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Sat, 24 Oct 2009 13:00:10 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Body to frame pads In-Reply-To: <200910241221.00881.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200910241221.00881.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <816293.78464.qm@web36105.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bob If you have done any major body work while off the frame then you may fine that it will be trial and error especially if you are using new body spacers. When re attaching my body, even though I marked where each set went, I still had to use more shims at the very rear of the body and one less at the parcel shelf to get the right door alignment. Dale ________________________________ From: Bob To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, October 24, 2009 12:21:00 PM Subject: [6pack] Body to frame pads Hi, I just finished cleaning up the body mounting HW and was looking at the square and trapezoidal body mounting pads and noticed that there are steel pads as well as the rubber pads. Never encountered this on my previous 3 and 4 restorations. Looking at the TRF parts book, they list the parts but mention they are used as shims for door alignment. Well as you might have guessed, I have no idea of how many pads go on each side since I have 3 rectangular (front) pads and only 1 trapezoidal rear pad. The pads were removed last fall and I can't remember which are which. Will it be trial and error when I go to install the doors or is there some assumption I can make based on the list's experience? Don't know if it matters but this is a late 1972 TR6. Thanks, Bob 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Oct 25 06:21:22 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 09:21:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TRF Interior for 72 TR6 Message-ID: <200910250921.23290.yellowtr@adelphia.net> HI, TRF is currently running a sale on interior panel sets. The TR6 model is about 150 $ off regular price. Has anyone had any experience with the 1972 version of the TRF interior panels? Are the door panels wood or cardboard? Don't know if it matters but the colour would be black. Thanks, Bob 1972 TR6 project possible completion date 9/10 From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Sun Oct 25 17:14:37 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Sun, 25 Oct 2009 17:14:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Dead Message-ID: <881111.48593.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I don't often ask questions but I'm baffled. Took the 6 out three times yesterday and everything was fine. Go out this afternoon and hit the ignition and nothing but a single click from the engine compartment.A few weeks ago I went on a long - for me - night time trip of maybe 70 miles. Driving at interstate speeds I noticed the ignition light winking at me off and on. I changed the battery a couple months ago and the pole on the side of the starter for some reason I couldn't get the cable connection all the way down on it. So I attributed the ignition light to maybe that.Like I said, yesterday everything was fine. Today just a single click.Ideas?John Summers'74 TR 6 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Oct 26 08:24:40 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 08:24:40 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Dead In-Reply-To: <881111.48593.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <881111.48593.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E24F9E45@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> John: Battery. My last failure on the TR6 was almost identical to yours. Starts great, voltmeter says battery is fully charged, headlights bright, etc. 10 minutes later, starter solenoid chatters but won't pull in, headlights still seem bright. Next morning starts great, that weekend all I get is a click from the starter. Pulled the battery, had it tested. Tested great. Dropped the starter, had it tested. The tech says its fine. I express skepticism, so he proceeds to cut a 2x4 in half with the pinion while the starter is running on his test bench. Hmm, OK, maybe the starter and solenoid are fine after all. What does that leave? Relay, ignition switch, or is the battery intermittent? Next time it happens, I toss a set of jumpers on and it fires instantly. I go to the battery place, the tech tests the battery AGAIN. Swears it is ok, and I would be wasting my money. Thanks, but replace it anyway, says I. No problems since. I think the light duty our batteries get is surprisingly hard on them. This battery was 3 years old, way oversized, and was immaculate as were the binding posts. No hint of a problem, yet it went intermittent. Not using it for 7 months out of the year seems to take a toll. At least, that is what I think. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Summers Sent: Sunday, October 25, 2009 5:15 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Dead I don't often ask questions but I'm baffled. Took the 6 out three times yesterday and everything was fine. Go out this afternoon and hit the ignition and nothing but a single click from the engine compartment.A few weeks ago I went on a long - for me - night time trip of maybe 70 miles. Driving at interstate speeds I noticed the ignition light winking at me off and on. I changed the battery a couple months ago and the pole on the side of the starter for some reason I couldn't get the cable connection all the way down on it. So I attributed the ignition light to maybe that.Like I said, yesterday everything was fine. Today just a single click.Ideas?John Summers'74 TR 6 From 75teer6 at gmail.com Mon Oct 26 10:23:50 2009 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 11:23:50 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Dead In-Reply-To: <881111.48593.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <881111.48593.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0910261023q7a9ea65bydf209f8ecdc4aa7b@mail.gmail.com> John, A similar thing happened to me when I was at the race track a few weeks ago. The car, my street TR6, ran very well during the 'novice lapping' session and I kept my eyes on the road, the tach, speedo, oil pressure and temp gauges. After the session, when it was time to leave the starter would not turn. I suspected that it was affected by the engine heat. Got a short push to start and left for home but halfway home the engine died. CAA confirmed that the battery was drained, and when we re-started the car the alternator was showing a low charge rate. Next day I had the alternator tested and it was under 20 amp maximum charge. The weak alternator could not keep the battery fully charged. This process also finished the battery. I installed the rebuilt alternator and a new battery and all is well. Henri 75 TR6, triple webers On Sun, Oct 25, 2009 at 6:14 PM, John Summers wrote: > I don't often ask questions but I'm baffled. Took the 6 out three times > yesterday and everything was fine. Go out this afternoon and hit the ignition > and nothing but a single click from the engine compartment.A few weeks ago I > went on a long - for me - night time trip of maybe 70 miles. Driving at > interstate speeds I noticed the ignition light winking at me off and on. I > changed the battery a couple months ago and the pole on the side of the > starter for some reason I couldn't get the cable connection all the way down > on it. So I attributed the ignition light to maybe that.Like I said, > yesterday everything was fine. Today just a single click.Ideas?John > Summers'74 TR 6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Oct 26 13:09:36 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 15:09:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] alternator issues Message-ID: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> Hi, all. i'm in dallas, and my 72 TR6 and my son are in Tuscaloosa. good for him; bad for me :-( anyway, the alternator on the car quit, and, being the well prepared Triumph owner, i had stocked the car with a spare. it lasted about 5 minutes. admittedly there could be something else, but the car seems to run and drive just fine otherwise. he bought a new battery, and the car has been "fine" ever since, except he's slowly losing charge! i've found this info on swaps: carparts.com has a 55 amp bosch for fiesta listed as 31107 and another listed as 13107 autoparts warehouse has a bosch listed as part 1100111 Alternator 62amp - New F4000-162140 which as pictured looks correct, but its amperage is 62 not 55 i'm looking for an upgrade alternator, preferrably drop in swap, including the plug. if he has to change the plug he can. i'd like to order it off the web and have it sent directly to him; he can do the swap. thanks! From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Oct 26 13:19:33 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 20:19:33 +0000 Subject: [6pack] alternator issues In-Reply-To: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> References: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052A46@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> The Autozone 13107 is a 55A drop in plug compatible replacement for the Lucas unit. The only two caveats are that the bolt used to clamp the adjuster is metric (M8-1.25 x 25mm) and the unit supplied may not come with a pulley and you need to transfer the one from the Lucas. There is no woodruff key on modern alternators. I have one of these alternators and I also stepped up to a bigger fan belt, a 45.5 inch belt from NAPA Part number 9455 Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 4:10 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] alternator issues Hi, all. i'm in dallas, and my 72 TR6 and my son are in Tuscaloosa. good for him; bad for me :-( anyway, the alternator on the car quit, and, being the well prepared Triumph owner, i had stocked the car with a spare. it lasted about 5 minutes. admittedly there could be something else, but the car seems to run and drive just fine otherwise. he bought a new battery, and the car has been "fine" ever since, except he's slowly losing charge! i've found this info on swaps: carparts.com has a 55 amp bosch for fiesta listed as 31107 and another listed as 13107 autoparts warehouse has a bosch listed as part 1100111 Alternator 62amp - New F4000-162140 which as pictured looks correct, but its amperage is 62 not 55 i'm looking for an upgrade alternator, preferrably drop in swap, including the plug. if he has to change the plug he can. i'd like to order it off the web and have it sent directly to him; he can do the swap. thanks! From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Mon Oct 26 14:39:47 2009 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 14:39:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] alternator issues In-Reply-To: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> References: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <51370.78444.qm@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Oliver >From the 6-pack site it appears that the 13107 is a good choice to swap to. Have in cluded a link and hope you can open it. http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=9167&highlight=alternato r&sid=ff9da50d6777484f97d4de5a3f38a290 Dale ________________________________ From: oliver To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, October 26, 2009 4:09:36 PM Subject: [6pack] alternator issues Hi, all. i'm in dallas, and my 72 TR6 and my son are in Tuscaloosa. good for him; bad for me :-( anyway, the alternator on the car quit, and, being the well prepared Triumph owner, i had stocked the car with a spare. it lasted about 5 minutes. admittedly there could be something else, but the car seems to run and drive just fine otherwise. he bought a new battery, and the car has been "fine" ever since, except he's slowly losing charge! i've found this info on swaps: carparts.com has a 55 amp bosch for fiesta listed as 31107 and another listed as 13107 autoparts warehouse has a bosch listed as part 1100111 Alternator 62amp - New F4000-162140 which as pictured looks correct, but its amperage is 62 not 55 i'm looking for an upgrade alternator, preferrably drop in swap, including the plug. if he has to change the plug he can. i'd like to order it off the web and have it sent directly to him; he can do the swap. thanks! _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Oct 26 18:46:27 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 21:46:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] play in steering rack Message-ID: <44C9D565932F47BA97B55FFD178E8894@Alan> I have pretty much finished my rebuild on a TR6. I had to replace the steering rack with another used one. The steering wheel has to turn a few degrees before the rack will move the tires. Is there anyway to tighten up this play? The moss catalog shows a shim under the bolt where the gound wire attaches to the rack below the universal joint that hold the lower steering column. Will putting in a shim tighten it up. Thanks, Al Pics of TR6 project at http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/?newest=1 From mark at bradakis.com Mon Oct 26 18:57:42 2009 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J Bradakis) Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 19:57:42 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] play in steering rack In-Reply-To: <44C9D565932F47BA97B55FFD178E8894@Alan> References: <44C9D565932F47BA97B55FFD178E8894@Alan> Message-ID: <4AE65396.1080004@bradakis.com> Are you sure the mounts are tight and secure? Does the rack move sideways any when you turn the steering wheel? mjb. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Oct 26 23:17:51 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 06:17:51 GMT Subject: [6pack] play in steering rack Message-ID: Al---Taking a shim OUT of the horn ground/ grease fitting bolt at the base of the steering shaft will actually tighten up this shaft, but do little in removing play in the rack. You need to be sure the rubber mounts at the end of the rack are pushed to their outboard limits. These are the ones held in place by the u-bolts. (Loosen the u-b's and push them outward as far as you can, while tightening the u-b nuts). If these rubber has deteriorated, they can be inexpensively replaced. Some owners use the all aluminum mounts. Once this is done, recheck for play in the tie rod ends. Also look at all of the steering shaft couplings by standing outside the car and turning the steering wheel back and forth, with the road wheels on the ground. There's several places where play can develop and be corrected. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Al Salvatore Sent: Monday, October 26, 2009 6:46 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] play in steering rack I have pretty much finished my rebuild on a TR6. I had to replace the steering rack with another used one. The steering wheel has to turn a few degrees before the rack will move the tires. Is there anyway to tighten up this play? The moss catalog shows a shim under the bolt where the gound wire attaches to the rack below the universal joint that hold the lower steering column. Will putting in a shim tighten it up. Thanks, Al Pics of TR6 project at http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/?newest=1 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Tue Oct 27 04:53:16 2009 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 07:53:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Dead Message-ID: <20FBE75FA2874AE59DB32494BBF7FE0E@Jerry2> I use a maintenance charger (not a trickle charger) on mine. NAPA sells one, but there are others. Stays with the car and just plug it in. Extremes in temperature are also hard on infrequently used batteries, e.g. Florida or Maine long term storage, and the maintenance charger helps. Jerry '74 TR6 Mallard Green in Connecticut ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- ------------------ Date: Mon, 26 Oct 2009 08:24:40 -0700 From: "Navarrette, Vance" Subject: Re: [6pack] Dead To: John Summers , "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E24F9E45 at orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" John: Battery. My last failure on the TR6 was almost identical to yours. Starts great, voltmeter says battery is fully charged, headlights bright, etc. 10 minutes later, starter solenoid chatters but won't pull in, headlights still seem bright. Next morning starts great, that weekend all I get is a click from the starter. Pulled the battery, had it tested. Tested great. Dropped the starter, had it tested. The tech says its fine. I express skepticism, so he proceeds to cut a 2x4 in half with the pinion while the starter is running on his test bench. Hmm, OK, maybe the starter and solenoid are fine after all. What does that leave? Relay, ignition switch, or is the battery intermittent? Next time it happens, I toss a set of jumpers on and it fires instantly. I go to the battery place, the tech tests the battery AGAIN. Swears it is ok, and I would be wasting my money. Thanks, but replace it anyway, says I. No problems since. I think the light duty our batteries get is surprisingly hard on them. This battery was 3 years old, way oversized, and was immaculate as were the binding posts. No hint of a problem, yet it went intermittent. Not using it for 7 months out of the year seems to take a toll. At least, that is what I think. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From k_nachman at comcast.net Tue Oct 27 12:24:11 2009 From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:24:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Right taillight refuses to shine In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <007201ca573b$0fe78ac0$2fb6a040$@net> Hopefully this is a simple problem. The right taillight & rear side marker light on my 1969 TR6 is out. The turn signals & brake lights both work fine. So does the left taillight. I cleaned the contacts and grounds but it still doesn't work. I can see on the wiring diagram that the light is fed by a red wire. I see the wire goes from the bottom fuse on the fuseblock into the taped wiring harness and that it comes out in the trunk at the light. Is there any place in between that I can check for a bad connection? Thanks Ken Nachman Richmond Triumph Register 1969 TR6 From waltp58 at comcast.net Tue Oct 27 12:50:57 2009 From: waltp58 at comcast.net (walt) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 15:50:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] leaking battery Message-ID: <004701ca573e$cd16e8e0$6501a8c0@home> List My battery tray has battery fluid in it and I can see tracks where the fluid has run down the side of the battery from the caps. I thought it might be getting over-charged, but I checked the voltage at the battery while the engine is running and it is 13.9 volts from 1000 to 3000 rpm. Any ideas? I'm using a Bosch alternator. Walt Philipson '74 TR6 From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Oct 27 17:09:26 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 16:09:26 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Right taillight refuses to shine References: <007201ca573b$0fe78ac0$2fb6a040$@net> Message-ID: <001401ca5762$eda33c70$cbed7b45@gpcorporate.com> Ken, Follow the red wire from the lamps that work you will get to an open connection. Diagram shows red wire to tail lamp, then another lamp then to a multiple connection of red wires. Diagram attached, will be dropped by the list. Regards, Bob P. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 11:24 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Right taillight refuses to shine > Hopefully this is a simple problem. The right taillight & rear side marker > light on my 1969 TR6 is out. The turn signals & brake lights both work fine. > So does the left taillight. I cleaned the contacts and grounds but it still > doesn't work. I can see on the wiring diagram that the light is fed by a > red wire. I see the wire goes from the bottom fuse on the fuseblock into the > taped wiring harness and that it comes out in the trunk at the light. Is > there any place in between that I can check for a bad connection? > > Thanks > Ken Nachman > Richmond Triumph Register > 1969 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.13570 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13570 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/x-bmp which had a name of 69 TR6.bmp] From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Oct 27 16:44:57 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 19:44:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Right taillight refuses to shine In-Reply-To: <007201ca573b$0fe78ac0$2fb6a040$@net> References: <007201ca573b$0fe78ac0$2fb6a040$@net> Message-ID: <4E5C695DAE1645AD9293CFC24047D664@BOBSNEWPC> Ken........ Most taillight problems are ground issues. Triumph did a lousy design job with the bulb having to make good contact with the housing to get to ground. That's why many of us have gone to these sockets (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TailLights.htm) which have a separate ground tab. BTW.....if you don't already have the AAW wiring schematic, you should download it at http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TailLights.htm It's a freebie and the most accurate one available. Forget the factory issue schematic and use this one. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ken Sent: Tuesday, October 27, 2009 3:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Right taillight refuses to shine Hopefully this is a simple problem. The right taillight & rear side marker light on my 1969 TR6 is out. The turn signals & brake lights both work fine. So does the left taillight. I cleaned the contacts and grounds but it still doesn't work. I can see on the wiring diagram that the light is fed by a red wire. I see the wire goes from the bottom fuse on the fuseblock into the taped wiring harness and that it comes out in the trunk at the light. Is there any place in between that I can check for a bad connection? Thanks Ken Nachman Richmond Triumph Register 1969 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From k_nachman at comcast.net Tue Oct 27 20:12:33 2009 From: k_nachman at comcast.net (Ken) Date: Tue, 27 Oct 2009 23:12:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Update: RH Taillight now burns brightly Message-ID: <00b901ca577c$7e052cb0$7a0f8610$@net> I found my problem with my RH taillight - a broken wire, but I was looking at the RH light. The broken wire was at the connector on the LEFT taillight. A little wire brushing, a little soldier, and a little dilectric grease and all is well. Thanks for the advise. Ken Nachman Richmond Triumph Register 1969 TR6 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Oct 28 08:26:12 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 28 Oct 2009 15:26:12 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Car event in Wilmington NC this Saturday Message-ID: List, Anybody going to the British Car Event in Wilmington, NC this Saturday? It's in the parking lot of the USS North Carolina WWII Battleship. http://www.bmccf.org/carshowbrochure09.pdf Sloane :) 69-Six _________________________________________________________________ Windows 7: Simplify your PC. Learn more. http://www.microsoft.com/Windows/windows-7/default.aspx?ocid=PID24727::T:WLMT AGL:ON:WL:en-US:WWL_WIN_evergreen1:102009 From Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov Thu Oct 29 13:04:41 2009 From: Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov (Ron Landis) Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:04:41 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding an engine Message-ID: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> Listers: Question should I attempt to rebuild my TR250 engine, which still runs. Or do I found a newer TR6 engine? I have never done this before but want to try. How hard is it? Ron 68TR250+65 ********************************************************************* Ron Landis, Director Engineering/Utility Services Division Dept. of Public Works - Kent County, MI PH 616-336-4370 FX 616-336-3338 Cell 616-299-0540 ********************************************************************* This message has been prepared on resources owned by Kent County, MI. It is subject to the Acceptable Use Policy of Kent County. From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Oct 29 13:47:30 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:47:30 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding an engine In-Reply-To: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> References: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> Message-ID: On Thu, 29 Oct 2009, Ron Landis wrote: > Listers: > > Question should I attempt to rebuild my TR250 engine, which still runs. > Or do I found a newer TR6 engine? I have never done this before but > want to try. How hard is it? There's more than one answer to this one... do you want originality? if so, then stick with the stock unit. Also - WHY do you want to rebuild? Is the motor healthy? If so, why rebuild? If it's not healthy, what's wrong with it? A LOT of stuff can be fixed with the motor still in the car. Do yo want more power? This is somewhat easy to do (compression bump, cam, header and so forth) if you can read and follow directions (the Bentley manual is fairly easy to follow once you get around jargon terms like "gudgeon pin" and "spanner"). How hard is this job? I think it's easy, but I've also been building motors for a long time (I did my first valve job in 1968 on my Dad's boat with a small block chevy motor). TR6's are just plain really easy to work on. There's no high-tech anything in there. You do need to know how to read vernier calipers and / or micrometers, but you can farm that stuff out to a trusted automotive machinist... but probably the hardest part is the physical strength needed to lift the head, the crank and / or the block (the block is by far the heaviest component at something like 100 lb.) If you don't have a lifting crane, buy - borrow - rent one. It makes the job SOOOOOOO much easier. The other hard part is writing the checks for the parts and the labor as this can get out of control easily. MAKE A PLAN AND STICK TO IT. You can budget a series of knowns. You cannot budget a series of unknowns. So don't get half-way done and then decide you want to put a hi-po cam in or something like that. Budget it up front and stick to the budget. As for swapping in a TR6 motor... it's a drop in replacement. But why swap in a later motor unless oyu happen to have one sitting around? If the answer is "so I can drive the car", then do it. Otherwise, I'd rebuild what's in there, especially if you can ID that it's an original piece. The adds to the value of the car. Last - there's more than one TR6 motor. 69's are pretty muvh the same as the TR250 (long-tail crank, narrow port head). 72 is the best year as far as the best crank, rods and head, but they're getting hard to find in non-modified condition so if you don't know what you're looking for ASSUME that it's not all original and bid accordingly. So - it's not a no-brainer, by any stretch, but with a plan, a budget and a realistic schedule, this is a pretty easy job. > Ron > 68TR250+65 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Oct 29 16:05:12 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 16:05:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding an engine In-Reply-To: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> References: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E25D6D17@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Ron: I agree with some of the other comments made - keeping your car original will preserve its value, all other things being equal. The 2 liter 4 pot motor is rugged, and produces essentially the same power as the 6 pot 2.5 liter in stock trim. There are suitable hot rodding tricks available for the 4 pot, so if you want more power, you can have that without a rebuild as well. As to the difficulty of rebuilding the motor yourself, it really is not an issue as long as you take your time, and read the shop manual before proceeding. Don't attempt this without a Bentley or equivalent. You will need to farm out the machine work to a competent machine shop, but there is nothing particularly tricky about doing a Triumph motor. As to whether you need to do a rebuild, that is yet another question. Is the compression in the motor within specification? The oil pressure OK at idle and cruise? Does it smoke at startup or under acceleration? Even then, many of these issues can be repaired without a rebuild. Working on most issues or getting more power are easily done without a rebuild. Generally you need a rebuild when: 1. Compression is down in one or more cylinders due to worn or broken rings. 2. Heavy oil consumption under most conditions. 3. Knocking or rattling coming from the bottom end. 4. Low oil pressure (assuming your oil is correct). I rebuilt mine because a. Low compression in #6 due to a blown head gasket b. Low compression in #2 due to a worn cam and lifters. c. Worn, noisy timing chain d. A broken radiator and leaking water pump. e. A desire to raise compression, port the head, and install a street cam. As you can see, I did not NEED to do a rebuild (all my issues were repairable with the motor in the car), but I had so many things going on I just decided to rebuild the entire motor to my liking. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ron Landis Sent: Thursday, October 29, 2009 1:05 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding an engine Listers: Question should I attempt to rebuild my TR250 engine, which still runs. Or do I found a newer TR6 engine? I have never done this before but want to try. How hard is it? Ron 68TR250+65 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Oct 29 16:42:47 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 19:42:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding an engine In-Reply-To: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> References: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> Message-ID: <200910291942.47922.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Thursday 29 October 2009 04:04:41 pm Ron Landis wrote: > Listers: > > Question should I attempt to rebuild my TR250 engine, which still runs. Or > do I found a newer TR6 engine? I have never done this before but want to > try. How hard is it? > > Ron > 68TR250+65 Ron, In the the past I have rebuilt a couple of 3 motors and about 4 years ago I rebuilt my 4 engine. In order to upgrade my current 3 engine to the new rear seal + a general rebuild, I had a Triumph shop do the task. I got lazy! But on my current 72 TR6 project, I decided to do the rebuild myself with the help of my local machine shop. Here is what I did: Totally disassembled the engine with lots of notes and photos. De-greased all the external and internal parts. Took the cam, crank, pistons and block to the machine shop for boiling, and a check of crank journals, pistons, cam lobes etc and cylinders. They boiled the crank and block. honed the cylinders, polished all bearing journals on crank and cam. No grinding or boring was required as everything was in spec. While this was being done, I cleaned all the other parts and painted etc. I had the distributor rebuilt by Jeff at Advanced. Reassembled the short block with new std bearings, slightly oversized upgraded thrust washer, new rings, seals, oil pump. Also before installing the clutch I had the flywheel surfaced. So now the short block is installed and ready for the head etc. I just picked up my head at the shop today. They: Boiled and pressure cleaned the exterior and water jacket. Installed hardened exhaust seats. Installed new bronze valve guides. Planed the head surface a few millimeters to insure a flat surface. Valve job. I just finished adding the 3rd coat of paint. Tomorrow I will install the valve springs and store the head until spring when I will install the head, carbs, water pump and jet coated exhaust manifold. I have replaced the ZS carbs with SU HS6. It does take some time but if you work slow and pay attention to detail: I.E. dont mix up the conn rods with their caps, Install the main journal caps correctly and in the correct order etc. ALso make sure the pistons point to the front! Also glad to hear that the 72 version of the TR6 engine is the strongest! Bob From shawn.loseke at gmail.com Thu Oct 29 17:48:24 2009 From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke) Date: Thu, 29 Oct 2009 18:48:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding an engine In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E25D6D17@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4AE9BD19.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E25D6D17@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0910291748s473208dodb4c5052525b33ca@mail.gmail.com> > I agree with some of the other comments made - keeping your car original will > preserve its value, all other things being equal. The 2 liter 4 pot motor is > rugged, and produces essentially the same power as the 6 pot 2.5 liter in > stock trim. There are suitable hot rodding tricks available for the 4 pot, so > if you want more power, you can have that without a rebuild as well. True the 2.0 litre 4 cylinder is fairly rugged, but the TR250 has the same 2.5 Inline 6 that the TR6 has. From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Sat Oct 31 11:41:26 2009 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 12:41:26 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [stag] TTA - WHAT's NEXT?? Status of Uncle Jack - our last grand finale task In-Reply-To: <253112.56090.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <253112.56090.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AEC84D6.8020305@triumphstagclub.org> Bert, Thanks for the input, and keep suggestions coming. BJ has not been interested in supporting our charities, been there, tried that twice. BJ has a list of their own special charities they promote and support and that is their position. They will be glad to auction the car as any other seller, No discount on buyer/seller/auctioneer premiums, etc. Do you (or anyone) have contacts at BJ that might change their mind - maybe some people who know people? Direct them to the TTA web site! Maybe now after the drive is over and publicized and the web site is up and running again they will pay attention and support it. I could easily get UJ to Phoenix for the January / February auction though if they would put it in the preferred/elite auction tent and I could get some VIP passes to keep it all pristine looking, put all the magnets back on, etc.. Maybe third time is a charmer. We also could not get Hagerty Insurance to be interested in sponsoring UJ's drive either, even though most of the Triumphs that participated in the caravans are Hagerty customers! Part of that disconnect was Chuck Kittelson suddenly passing in July who was my main publicity and corporate sponsor guru for the TTA drive and was working with sponsors. We did have Kruse interested, but they are in financial straights with pending bankruptcy so the decision not to use them was made - and we could not bet the car to Hershey in time from SLO. Chuck Kittelson had two casinos in Vegas interested in paying a cool $1million for the car but the economy took a dump as we were kicking off the drive. I will be pursuing this avenue again as we ramp up the auction site and publicity. For coverage on national TV, John Macartney was interviewed on many local TV stations, many local radio stations and many newspapers and car magazines over the course of the drive. Press releases were sent to all the major broadcast medias, none on the national ones were were interested. As an example, our local newspaper car guy at the Denver Post was more enamored with the 4 supercars (google Bertone Mantide and revin' on earth) spending tens of thousands in costs to drive them coast to coast with a gaggle of mechanics and semi's full of parts and a mobile service garage, for the sole purpose of personal satisfaction of one the drivers millionaire Dan Watkins, and his 3 other buddies, than a cause covering all of North America traveling through Denver to raise awareness and charity money for PTSD. If you got it, flaunt it I suppose. -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA North American Drive Coordinator 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org Skype,Twitter,FaceBook: StagByTriumph Bert Saxby wrote: > Why not take it to Barrett Jackson? I'm sure they would get on the charity > bandwagon and you almost never see a Triumph roll across the stage. From gpl at fuse.net Sat Oct 31 12:28:13 2009 From: gpl at fuse.net (george leicht) Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 15:28:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: <001701ca5a60$49d3d4a0$dd7b7de0$@net> Anyone driving a Triumph 2000 (I think, it was really dark) with Ohio Plates "6 Pack" on I 275 outside Cincinnati last night around 7:00 pm? george leicht 1972 TR6 and some other British stuff. From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Oct 31 13:00:34 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:00:34 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Triumph 2000 Message-ID: <447611144-1257019248-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-919730185-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I think that would be Todd (TR250) Lou 72 Pimento TR6 ------Original Message------ From: george leicht Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Oct 31, 2009 2:28 PM Subject: [6pack] Triumph 2000 Anyone driving a Triumph 2000 (I think, it was really dark) with Ohio Plates "6 Pack" on I 275 outside Cincinnati last night around 7:00 pm? george leicht 1972 TR6 and some other British stuff. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From tr6greg at fuse.net Sat Oct 31 17:17:38 2009 From: tr6greg at fuse.net (Greg Donegan) Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 20:17:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Triumph 2000 In-Reply-To: <001701ca5a60$49d3d4a0$dd7b7de0$@net> Message-ID: That was Todd Bermudez' 2000, which is one of literally umpteen many TRiumphs that he owns... Greg Donegan 72 TR6 CC82492UO Hebron, KY -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of george leicht Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 3:28 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Triumph 2000 Anyone driving a Triumph 2000 (I think, it was really dark) with Ohio Plates "6 Pack" on I 275 outside Cincinnati last night around 7:00 pm? george leicht 1972 TR6 and some other British stuff. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6greg at fuse.net From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sat Oct 31 18:29:08 2009 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 18:29:08 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Broken or cracked diff mount Message-ID: <000001ca5a92$b840cce0$b1191718@computer> I have been here before asking about vibrations I am having. They are getting worse to the point of bad. It is in the drive train and not in the tires. There is nothing I can see but now I am wondering if off and on (mostly on now) vibrations can be associated with a broken or cracked diff mount. Thanks. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Oct 31 19:26:14 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 31 Oct 2009 22:26:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Broken or cracked diff mount In-Reply-To: <000001ca5a92$b840cce0$b1191718@computer> References: <000001ca5a92$b840cce0$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: A cracked/broken diff mount is usually associated with a clunk sound upon takeoff....not a vibration. Having said that.....the diff issue isn't usually that obvious. Here's what mine looked like.....about 1/2 down the page http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim hearn Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 9:29 PM To: '6 Digest' Subject: [6pack] Broken or cracked diff mount I have been here before asking about vibrations I am having. They are getting worse to the point of bad. It is in the drive train and not in the tires. There is nothing I can see but now I am wondering if off and on (mostly on now) vibrations can be associated with a broken or cracked diff mount. Thanks. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org