From trglory at verizon.net Sun Nov 1 09:25:14 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Sun, 01 Nov 2009 11:25:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [stag] TTA - WHAT's NEXT?? Status of Uncle Jack - our last grand finale task In-Reply-To: <4AEC84D6.8020305@triumphstagclub.org> References: <253112.56090.qm@web37904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4AEC84D6.8020305@triumphstagclub.org> Message-ID: <005101ca5b0f$e5053040$af0f90c0$@net> Glenn; Charities are usually experts at bending arms and breaking fingers. Has either of the beneficiaries stepped up to influence the multitude of auctioneers that plunder the purses of the rich and famous? Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn A. Merrell - TSN Sent: Saturday, October 31, 2009 2:41 PM To: Bert Saxby; stag at digest.net; Triumph Triumph list; Spitfires Mail List Members; TR8 Mail List Members; 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] [stag] TTA - WHAT's NEXT?? Status of Uncle Jack - our last grand finale task Bert, Thanks for the input, and keep suggestions coming. BJ has not been interested in supporting our charities, been there, tried that twice. From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sun Nov 1 10:41:02 2009 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jimhearn1 at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 17:41:02 +0000 (UTC) Subject: [6pack] Broken or cracked diff mount Message-ID: <718455613.3170181257097262006.JavaMail.root@sz0175a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net> Sorry, I meant to say on my vibration problem that the car is a 1974 TR6. From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun Nov 1 20:34:47 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sun, 1 Nov 2009 19:34:47 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Jim Hearn's Driveline vibrations Message-ID: <457702.64310.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> One of the 6s in our club had a driveline vibration that was cured with propshaft balancing and new ujoints. Our club guru figured the new ujoints solved most of the problem. The shop that did the work was a driveline specialist, - lots of heavy truck work I think, as he put in some beefier ujoints! Bruce Simms __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Nov 2 17:29:08 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Mon, 2 Nov 2009 19:29:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] tr6 carpet Message-ID: I have a navy blue TR6 carpet set listed on Ebay, # 180426772633. This came out of my project car as I changed colors. It looks like it is fairly new. Probably put in shortly before the car was wrecked. I don't know who made it. Its not a TRF carpet. It is priced accordingly. It is complete. There's a couple of pieces I forgot to put in the picture. Thanks for your time. Al From lee at automate-it.com Tue Nov 3 23:42:21 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Wed, 4 Nov 2009 00:42:21 -0600 (CST) Subject: [6pack] Classic Motorsports magazine Message-ID: <1306.12.7.82.66.1257316941.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> On Tuesday my mailbox contained a complimentary copy of Classic Motorsports magazine, including a false cover containing an offer for reduced subscription/extra issues if I subscribe. I'm guessing that they bought a mailing list from TRF or maybe Road & Track. I don't think I've *really* looked at this publication before, although I've picked it up in bookstores a couple of times and thumbed quickly through it. But since I had a long cross-country flight on this very day, I read almost all the way through it. One of my first observations is that Tim Suddard is the publisher, and that many names on the masthead look familiar. Because for several years I subscribed to Tim's first magazine, Grassroots Motorsports. Anyway - I'm impressed. Very nicely done, including contributions from Peter Brock and a few others you might recognize. The cover article on "the ultimate home workshop" is what first got my attention, and it does not disappoint. I note that Moss and Vicky Brit and many other small Brit-car vendors/shops advertise, but TRF is conspicuously absent. Charles is certainly a bit quirky, but I can't believe that he wouldn't benefit from broader advertising. I'm wondering if this blast of sample issues to potential subscribers isn't another symptom of the trend of diving subscriber numbers for all print media. Is this a last-gasp attempt to bolster subscriptions and avoid going under? Just wondering. - Lee From lee at automate-it.com Thu Nov 5 00:49:51 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 01:49:51 -0600 (CST) Subject: [6pack] [TR] Classic Motorsports magazine In-Reply-To: References: <1306.12.7.82.66.1257316941.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <1249.12.7.82.66.1257407391.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> > You used to subscribe, that's where they got your info from. I should have clarified - I moved long after my subscription expired, so they never had my current address. Doesn't matter; I'm still pretty impressed by the magazine and there's a strong chance I'll subscribe, so they're tactic worked... From 75teer6 at gmail.com Thu Nov 5 06:34:22 2009 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 06:34:22 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: [TR] Classic Motorsports magazine In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0911050533o4aba9f64ia1b6aed77241b0c9@mail.gmail.com> References: <1306.12.7.82.66.1257316941.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> <1249.12.7.82.66.1257407391.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> <83dfea6b0911050533o4aba9f64ia1b6aed77241b0c9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0911050534j54f99104hb607aaec80f824@mail.gmail.com> I have subscribed to Classic Motorsports magazine for a few years and I enjoy the magazine and content. Henri 75 TR6, Signal red, triple webers 71 MGB GT, dark blue On Thu, Nov 5, 2009 at 12:49 AM, Lee Daniels wrote: >> You used to subscribe, that's where they got your info from. > > I should have clarified - I moved long after my subscription expired, so they > never had my current address. Doesn't matter; I'm still pretty impressed by > the magazine and there's a strong chance I'll subscribe, so they're tactic > worked... > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Thu Nov 5 09:11:15 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 08:11:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] rebuilt differential on Ebay Message-ID: <257222.8969.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> A few days ago a rebuilt differential sold for about $525.00 on ebay. Vendor was a shop in St. Louis that seems to be a regular ebayer. We all want to get a deal, but, this seems a little too good. The rebuild kit alone is $400.00 from TRF I believe. I recall looking at a Leyland shop times manual where a TR6 differential rebuild was allowed something like 10 hours. At some point I guess I'm going to have to do something with my original differential. I don't have any special tools or knowledge for a re-build, so not sure how practical the job is for tinkerers armed with regular tools and repair manuals. Thanks, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Nov 5 10:16:32 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 05 Nov 2009 10:16:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] rebuilt differential on Ebay In-Reply-To: <257222.8969.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <257222.8969.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4AF30870.6080209@dfn.com> Bruce Simms wrote: > A few days ago a rebuilt differential sold for about $525.00 on ebay. Vendor > was a shop in St. Louis that seems to be a regular ebayer. We all want to get > a deal, but, this seems a little too good. The rebuild kit alone is $400.00 > from TRF I believe. I recall looking at a Leyland shop times manual where a > TR6 differential rebuild was allowed something like 10 hours. > > True enough, but, if the guy is in the business, he's not paying retail for the parts, but, rather, jobber prices, and is likely only replacing the bits that actually require replacement. As well, if one is just rebuilding the diffs out of core stock, the shop time is going to be much less (more like 3.5-4.0 hours) because there's no R&R required. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Nov 5 10:40:26 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 12:40:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] rebuilt differential on Ebay In-Reply-To: <257222.8969.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <257222.8969.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, TR6 diff rebuilds are fairly straight-forward, but if you don't have the special tools for setting / measuring the pinion head height, you have to resort to an iterative process to set the height and then you have to set the bearing preload (or visa-versa... it's in the manual.) The general point is that when you get it wrong (which is fairly likely), you have to pound out the bearing race for the inner pinion bearing (aka the pinion head bearing) and insert / remove shims to get thing in line. Now, you could "relieve" the outer race for the pinion head bearing so it doesn't have to be an interference fit, but there's enough tolerance built in that you could set the shims and the bolt it together and things are too tight (or the ring gear meshes oddly with the pinion) and you have to pull everything and adjust after you install new bearings. Bottom line, there can be instances where you pull the entire thing apart 5 or 6 times to get the shims right. My experience in these situations is that you also wind up sacrificing some shims to get things working okay, so that adds a bit to the expense, e.g. buy 4 of this and 4 of that and so forth. There's two sets of shims, the small ones for the bearing preload and the big ones for the pinion head. So the cost of the shims adds up. But if someone is offering a truely reconditioned diff for $500 or less, it's a pretty good deal. On the other hand, the pinion and ring gear are one of the weakest parts on a TR6 and if the reconditioned diff ever ran out of oil or overheated the gears are probably toast and prone to failure... my personal preference is to recondition AND replace the gears. Then you get a very long service life as long as the unit is never overheated or run out of oil. So, if you have the time and the inclination AND THE MANUAL, you can go for it. But also make sure your fore-arms are nice and strong 'cause you get to do a lot of pounding in this job!! Note that removing the center section of the diff is pretty easy even in the absence of a case spreader. I've done MANY of these without a case spreader and it's really quite easy to get that puppy out as long as you move it a little at a time on each side. Figure a min. of 4 hours for this job, maybe longer depending on your skill level. Take your time and don't force anything and make sure nothing binds when you're putting things back together. It's you call. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Nov 5 10:46:41 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 5 Nov 2009 09:46:41 -0800 Subject: [6pack] rebuilt differential on Ebay In-Reply-To: <257222.8969.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <257222.8969.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E26A0C08@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bruce You are right to be a bit suspicious. There is a wide variation in the work done for a "rebuild". Some rebuilds will replace all wear items, other rebuilds will replace only those items that are worn out of spec, other rebuilds may simply change the seals and gaskets. Personally, I call a claim that seal replacements constitute a "rebuild" by another name - Fraud. I learned this first hand on my "rebuilt" J-type overdrive. It had fresh seals and gaskets, so I concluded that it was indeed rebuilt (the person that sold it to me claimed it was rebuilt). I discovered after I had installed it that the cone clutch was completely worn out, and that the OD slipped badly in reverse when hot. I subsequently pulled the tranny and OD to replace the cone clutch which solved the problem. I don't know if the person that sold it to me rebuilt it himself, or if he too was sold a bill of goods by a third party. So to get back on the Diff rebuild, you need to know specifically what was done to the diff during the rebuild in order to determine if it is a good deal or not. For that price, I would expect that it was completely torn down, inspected, and at least the bearings and seals were replaced. The gears can be reinstalled if they are within specification. There may well be a difference in the quality of the bearings between TRF and the shop in St. Louis, which would be the main cost difference. For example, my experience is that US made Timken are much less expensive than importing an identical bearing from the UK, so I don't know how that may enter into the equation. Also, if Chinese bearings were used, I would not touch that rebuild with a ten foot pole. Lots of things to think about when considering a "rebuild" for any component on the car. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Thursday, November 05, 2009 8:11 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] rebuilt differential on Ebay A few days ago a rebuilt differential sold for about $525.00 on ebay. Vendor was a shop in St. Louis that seems to be a regular ebayer. We all want to get a deal, but, this seems a little too good. The rebuild kit alone is $400.00 from TRF I believe. I recall looking at a Leyland shop times manual where a TR6 differential rebuild was allowed something like 10 hours. At some point I guess I'm going to have to do something with my original differential. I don't have any special tools or knowledge for a re-build, so not sure how practical the job is for tinkerers armed with regular tools and repair manuals. Thanks, Bruce Simms 73 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Nov 5 17:16:51 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 06 Nov 2009 00:16:51 GMT Subject: [6pack] rebuilt differential on Ebay Message-ID: Bruce---If you can afford the down time, have a good manual of diff rebuilds, and the patience to do it, try the rebuild yourself. In many cases, you will not have to use the special equipment that's called out for refitting the ring and pinion mesh. (note the shim thicknesses and placement, as well as where the cotter pin went thru the castlated nut on the pinion). If your '73 diff is like my '73 diff, only the seals, cone/dished washers and a few bearings will need replacement. Mine had nearly 280,000 miles on it, when, with the help of Berry P. and Bob L. the job was done in about 16 scattered hours. The next three diffs I did took much less time, as there's a lot of fussing that wasn't necessary. The only part of doing this that had to be farmed out was pressing off the bearings in front of the seals on the half shafts. (Lots of tonnage involved here. The cost at the local NAPA was minimal, like $5.00 per axle. I had a spare diff to work with, so after the repair I got to try it out, having my worn diff to fall back on if necessary. Armed with the confidence of my rebuild that now had 5,000 miles on it, I then tackled my original and installed it. Lots more to this, but the short story is that the job looks formidable when looking at the illustrations and pages of instructions. Once the diff plate is removed and you're able to see and turn the moving parts, the slop will be evident. Bearings and their races should be removed, cleaned and inspected with a good magnifier. This will show up as to their worth in keeping. If we weren't so far apart, I'd loan you one of mine while you completed ths job. Now with an LSD, but that's a whole other story! Dick From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Nov 8 19:54:57 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 8 Nov 2009 20:54:57 -0600 Subject: [6pack] alternator issues References: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052A46@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> <771AE3ADE2F34926905378572BA97215@ranteer.local> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052B61@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ here is the old (lucas) and the new one, that was supposed to be a drop in, plug in. the plugs don't match. what's the easiest way to make this connection? or do i need a different new alternator? thanks! From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Nov 9 11:43:41 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 09 Nov 2009 10:43:41 -0800 Subject: [6pack] alternator issues References: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052A46@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> <771AE3ADE2F34926905378572BA97215@ranteer.local> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052B61@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002c01ca616c$8f47cc90$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com> Hi Oliver, I am waiting for the wisdom of the list. My '71 alternator connector looks more like your non-Lucus alternator picture, 3 pins in a row. Wires are BN/YEL, BN/WHITE and BN. Connector is very tight, I did not get it off to see if pin sizes match. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 6:54 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] alternator issues > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ > > here is the old (lucas) and the new one, that was supposed to be a drop in, > plug in. > > the plugs don't match. > > what's the easiest way to make this connection? or do i need a different > new alternator? > > thanks! > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.13650 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13650 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From stuartt at tlthompson.com Mon Nov 9 10:35:10 2009 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 11:35:10 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) Message-ID: Fellow List Mates: This past Saturday I was driving home from my favorite mechanic after just having had a new master cylinder installed. All seemed well until I get ready to enter the freeway. Suddenly I noticed a loud winding sound in 3rd gear. I shift into 4th and the sound went away. I drove for approximately 25 miles before getting off the freeway. It wasn't until I got another 2 or 3 miles down the road when the noisy 3rd gear reappeared. The closer I got to home the louder it became. I've never had this problem before and have not yet checked the oil level in the tranny because I couldn't get the fill plug loose. The car is now sitting up on jack stands in my garage. I'm sure this sounds familiar to some of you so please give me the bad news. Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Mon Nov 9 11:38:54 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 11:38:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Vice-grips and a cheater bar will get the plug out. Ya' might want a new one on hand first, though... Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 10:35 AM To: Triumph List; 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) Fellow List Mates: This past Saturday I was driving home from my favorite mechanic after just having had a new master cylinder installed. All seemed well until I get ready to enter the freeway. Suddenly I noticed a loud winding sound in 3rd gear. I shift into 4th and the sound went away. I drove for approximately 25 miles before getting off the freeway. It wasn't until I got another 2 or 3 miles down the road when the noisy 3rd gear reappeared. The closer I got to home the louder it became. I've never had this problem before and have not yet checked the oil level in the tranny because I couldn't get the fill plug loose. The car is now sitting up on jack stands in my garage. I'm sure this sounds familiar to some of you so please give me the bad news. Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Nov 9 12:47:36 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 11:47:36 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E26F3436@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Stuart: I was forced to use Kevin's solution on my tranny as well. I replaced the drain plug with a hardware store hex socket pipe plug, 3/8" NPT as I recall. Always easy to get it out after that. I also used the same plug when I added a drain to my differential. The NPT is completely compatible with the BPT used by Triumph. The only exception is in the case of a STRAIGHT BPT, but the transmission drain does fall under this exception. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin McNelis Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 10:39 AM To: 'Stuart Thompson'; 'Triumph List'; '6 Pack list' Subject: Re: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) Vice-grips and a cheater bar will get the plug out. Ya' might want a new one on hand first, though... Kevin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Monday, November 09, 2009 10:35 AM To: Triumph List; 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) Fellow List Mates: I've never had this problem before and have not yet checked the oil level in the tranny because I couldn't get the fill plug loose. The car is now sitting up on jack stands in my garage. I'm sure this sounds familiar to some of you so please give me the bad news. Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack From TR6UO at aol.com Mon Nov 9 14:04:07 2009 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 16:04:07 EST Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) Message-ID: Gentlemen, Good to know about NPT vs. BPT, thanks. But getting back to Stuart's actual question, I have to ask, if it was only the transmission fluid, why did he only hear the noise in one gear? And while I'm at it, thank you Vance, Kevin and all the other regular contributors for your experience and wisdom on this forum. Maybe you don't hear it much, but it's greatly appreciated. Steve '72 CCUO From stuartt at tlthompson.com Mon Nov 9 14:32:31 2009 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 15:32:31 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) References: Message-ID: <7A0DC138EB124804A9C1A8C9E43E5A39@Dell320> This forum is great & very much appreciated. I always get good sound advice. I went to my local Sears today and bought some new tools. I will attempt to remove the plug this evening. I'll go ahead and drain the fluid and see what comes out. When I go to refill it how much does it hold? ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- --- And while I'm at it, thank you Vance, Kevin and all the other regular contributors for your experience and wisdom on this forum. Maybe you don't hear it much, but it's greatly appreciated. Steve '72 CCUO From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Nov 9 15:49:31 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 9 Nov 2009 17:49:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) In-Reply-To: <7A0DC138EB124804A9C1A8C9E43E5A39@Dell320> References: <7A0DC138EB124804A9C1A8C9E43E5A39@Dell320> Message-ID: You fill the transmission until it pours back out of the fill hole. In absence of a car lift, basically you need to jack up the car and put jack stands at all four points , making sure the car is level. Then remove the drain plug and let the fluid out. I always do something else while that's happening, letting all the old fluid out. It helps to remove the fill plug too, letting air in as fluid runs out. Then I re insert the drain plug and fill the transmission using a pump and hose to get it from the bottle to the hole. When it starts to flow back out of the transmission I know it has enough. Close up the fill hole with a cleaned plug. Ready to drop the car and the job is done. If you have overdrive like my TR3, you will need to open the filter plug as well as the drain plug. While the filter plug is out, clean the mesh. From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Nov 9 16:06:54 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 09 Nov 2009 18:06:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CC2FA876D2D3D0-3E64-6558@webmail-m083.sysops.aol.com> It probably isnt "only" the transmission fluid but the easiest way to check for little bits of metal that come from funny noises in the transmission are to drain the fluid and inspect what is left on the bottom. Quicker and easier than pulling the thing and taking it apart at least. I hope the news is somehow good but it doesnt sound good right now. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: TR6UO at aol.com To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; stuartt at tlthompson.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Nov 9, 2009 4:04 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) Gentlemen, Good to know about NPT vs. BPT, thanks. But getting back to Stuart's actual question, I have to ask, if it was only the transmission fluid, why did he only hear the noise in one gear? And while I'm at it, thank you Vance, Kevin and all the other regular contributors for your experience and wisdom on this forum. Maybe you don't hear it much, but it's greatly appreciated. Steve '72 CCUO 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com From fishplate at charter.net Mon Nov 9 19:42:06 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough) Date: Mon, 09 Nov 2009 21:42:06 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) In-Reply-To: References: <7A0DC138EB124804A9C1A8C9E43E5A39@Dell320> Message-ID: <3Ehd1d0065K6Zm805Ei0YK@charter.net> At 05:49 PM 11/9/2009, Robert Liam Gannon wrote: >It helps to remove the fill plug >too, letting air in as fluid runs out. Remove the fill plug first. This way you are assured that you can get fluid back in before you let it all out. Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/ Corrosion Acres, Georgia #354 From gaf3 at charter.net Tue Nov 10 05:17:46 2009 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 07:17:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] DOOR HARDWARE NEEDED FOR 74 TR6 Message-ID: <4AF959EA.80402@charter.net> Group Does anyone out there have a remote control release rod for the left door of a TR6 1973 or later? This is the rod and mechanism the runs from the door latch to the inside door release handle. It has an upward bend to clear the door pull in the center of the door. I need to buy one of these to wrap up my restoration on my 74 autocrosser or fast road car. The big three in the US and Rimmer have no stock. Thanks in advance Glenn Franco 71 and 74 TR6 and spit racer From gaf3 at charter.net Tue Nov 10 07:54:30 2009 From: gaf3 at charter.net (Glenn Franco) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 09:54:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] DOOR HARDWARE NEEDED FOR 74 TR6 In-Reply-To: <4AF959EA.80402@charter.net> References: <4AF959EA.80402@charter.net> Message-ID: <4AF97EA6.8070007@charter.net> Sorry to bomb the list but, Scott Harper, Team Triumph, had one and it's on its way. Thanks that was fast. Glenn Glenn Franco wrote: > Group > Does anyone out there have a remote control release rod for the left > door of a TR6 1973 or later? > This is the rod and mechanism the runs from the door latch to the > inside door release handle. > It has an upward bend to clear the door pull in the center of the door. > > I need to buy one of these to wrap up my restoration on my 74 > autocrosser or fast road car. > The big three in the US and Rimmer have no stock. > > Thanks in advance > Glenn Franco > 71 and 74 TR6 and spit racer > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net > > http://www.fot-racing.com > > > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > > Brought to you by Team.Net consulting - Unix software specialist. > > > You are subscribed as gaf3 at charter.net From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Nov 10 09:24:24 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 16:24:24 +0000 Subject: [6pack] alternator issues In-Reply-To: References: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052A46@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> <771AE3ADE2F34926905378572BA97215@ranteer.local> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052B61@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280CD13F@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Hmm, it looks like you have the earlier alternator that I thought stopped at 1971 but obviously not.. I wonder if you could just convert to the later style plug as sold by Moss ? Part 540-280, $7.10 http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/540-280.pdf Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 9:55 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] alternator issues http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ here is the old (lucas) and the new one, that was supposed to be a drop in, plug in. the plugs don't match. what's the easiest way to make this connection? or do i need a different new alternator? thanks! 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From jimhurle at gmail.com Tue Nov 10 09:25:32 2009 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 11:25:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? Message-ID: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> Hello, A lot of folks are familiar with the usage of 4-pot calipers from Toyota pickup trucks to upgrade the front TR6 brakes. However I recently found a link on a TVR site that said one could use rotors for a 1988 Toyota Cresida in conjunction with US-spec 1988 4-cylinder Toyota 4-runner calipers. The advantage of this setup is that the brake rotor is larger and is vented!!! The only downside is that the rotor hole needs to be opened up a bit. Does anyone have any experience with this conversion? Jim Hurley 1975 TR6 (not on the road yet) From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Nov 10 10:09:32 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:09:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] alternator issues Message-ID: <496078309-1257872989-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1346007680-@bda150.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Don't think so Stan, the d-r plug Moss sells is T-shaped as well. Unless this is a different plug...... Take it to an alternator shop and look for a plug to fit it then wire it as your car should be. You can download the wiring schematic from Advanceautowire for your year and bring it with you they will probably tell you which wires go where on the plug. Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: oliver To: TR-6 list Sent: Nov 10, 2009 10:24 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] alternator issues Hmm, it looks like you have the earlier alternator that I thought stopped at 1971 but obviously not.. I wonder if you could just convert to the later style plug as sold by Moss ? Part 540-280, $7.10 http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/540-280.pdf Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Sunday, November 08, 2009 9:55 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] alternator issues http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ here is the old (lucas) and the new one, that was supposed to be a drop in, plug in. the plugs don't match. what's the easiest way to make this connection? or do i need a different new alternator? thanks! 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Nov 10 10:34:47 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 09:34:47 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? In-Reply-To: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> References: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5A182B5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Folks: Thought I would stir the "pot" on this topic a bit. (Har-har-har. I crack myself up.) There are two reasons to upgrade the brakes on a TR6 - short stopping distances and improved fade resistance. The 4 pot front upgrade almost exclusively upgrades the latter. What most of us street drivers want is shorter stopping distances - and upgrading the front brakes is marginal for that. The OEM TR6 brakes easily lock the front wheels and thus are ample to extract maximum work from the front tires during a panic stop. This is the issue - extracting maximum work from the tires. This is because it is the TIRES that stop the car. The brakes stop the WHEELS and after that your life and car are in the arms of Saint Goodyear (Or Saint Yokohama, or....) Ahem. So here is what I have found on the web - that there is a good deal of remaining work that can be extracted from the rear tires, even when the front wheels have locked. This is because the rear braking is deliberately tuned to avoid a spin. Triumph was conservative in their tuning, and the rear brakes can be made considerably more aggressive with little risk. Or so I have read. To measurably improve stopping distances one needs to make the rear brakes more aggressive. Two ways to do this on the cheap - friction material or higher applied force on the brake shoes. A quick and easy upgrade to the rear brakes is to fit the brake cylinders for the Sunbeam Tiger to the TR6 rear end. They are a drop in replacement, with larger bores so that higher force is applied to the shoes. This in turn extracts more work from the rear tires and shortens braking distances. If you want improved street performance, the rear brake cylinder upgrade is an easy, cheap, effective mod with no machining required. Now, have I personally tried this? No - it falls into the "I read this, and have always wanted to try it" category. Is anyone out there interested in trying this and reporting back their impressions? It would be a great bit of tech stuff on the cheap.... Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Hurley Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 8:26 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? Hello, However I recently found a link on a TVR site that said one could use rotors for a 1988 Toyota Cresida in conjunction with US-spec 1988 4-cylinder Toyota 4-runner calipers. The advantage of this setup is that the brake rotor is larger and is vented!!! Jim Hurley 1975 TR6 (not on the road yet) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 10 11:05:55 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 12:05:55 -0600 Subject: [6pack] alternator issues References: <67EF9AF990D949A29BEAB7D1FA6D6C8C@ranteer.local><374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052A46@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net><771AE3ADE2F34926905378572BA97215@ranteer.local><374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF28052B61@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280CD13F@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <38F619B634A44C31875E8DAA4769D2ED@ranteer.local> that replacement piece is, i think, what i need. in the meantime apparently you can take apart the L shaped piece and simply plug the leads directly into the new alternator. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" To: "oliver" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 10:24 AM Subject: RE: [6pack] alternator issues Hmm, it looks like you have the earlier alternator that I thought stopped at 1971 but obviously not.. I wonder if you could just convert to the later style plug as sold by Moss ? Part 540-280, $7.10 http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/540-280.pdf Stan From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Nov 10 11:43:44 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:43:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5A182B5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5A182B5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: Hi, I have done the upgrade to the rear brakes and I can attest that they work better with little downside. It's still pretty hard to lock the rears with that setup and that would be the concern of this upgrade. Note that there are essentially two possible upgrades, the Sunbeam jobbies which I think are 13/16" bore and then there's a Morgan rear brake upgrade that's a tad larger (7/8" or 22.5mm, I think) that I have yet to try. Those will go on the race when I do the upgrade. I intend to do a comparison of the stock (.725) and the upgrades (13/16" and 7/8" sometime in 2010, just for yucks. >From a drive perspective, the change to larger rear wheel cyls. makes the car feel like the rear "digs in" as opposed to "nose diving" when you tromp on the binders. You still get some nose dip, but not nearly as much as the stock setup. Keep in mind that I run huge tires compared to a lot of folks on the list, the race car slicks are 10" across the face (aka 245 mm). this is nearly 3 inches wider than the stock tires. But I'd say the 13/16" upgrade (Sunbeam Alpine) is a def. upgrade no matter how you drive the car. Thumbs up on this one. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From KKSMC at aol.com Tue Nov 10 11:51:46 2009 From: KKSMC at aol.com (KKSMC at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 13:51:46 EST Subject: [6pack] Water pump replacement Message-ID: Any quality/value preferences on a TR6 water pump replacement from the Big 3? New or rebuilt?? Any possible removal/replacement issues that are commonly encountered in replacing water pump? Please advise. From jimhurle at gmail.com Tue Nov 10 12:00:07 2009 From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:00:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Cressida Rotors Message-ID: <2d6b54e10911101100m5fe3d8d4wf7229f26d711b4aa@mail.gmail.com> The quick response I got indicates some interest in this possible upgrade. Here is the link to the TVR site: http://www.olenik.com/tvr/tvr.pl?page=ventedrotor I did a quick search on the AutoZone website and found the rotors available for $69 a unit, and the calipers available for $49 with a $20 core charge. These parts may need to be special ordered, but they seem available. Jim Hurley 75 TR6, on jack stands most of the time... 05 Arctic Tern, on the water more than the TR6 is off the jackstands 08 Pyranha Ammo, upside down in the Gap more than the TR6 is off the jackstands From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Nov 10 13:01:57 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 14:01:57 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? References: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5A182B5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <2FB75B6835A845979D1A1AE9542AD1FE@ranteer.local> the morgan rear brake cylinders are also a drop in replacement. and likely the same as the tiger ones. i have them on my car. had to upgrade the front pads and then balance the system. car stops really well. of course, the tires are fat and sticky. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 11:34 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? > Folks: > > Thought I would stir the "pot" on this topic a bit. (Har-har-har. I crack > myself up.) > > There are two reasons to upgrade the brakes on a TR6 - short stopping > distances and improved fade resistance. The 4 pot front upgrade almost > exclusively upgrades the latter. What most of us street drivers want is > shorter stopping distances - and upgrading the front brakes is marginal > for > that. > The OEM TR6 brakes easily lock the front wheels and thus are ample to > extract > maximum work from the front tires during a panic stop. This is the issue - > extracting maximum work from the tires. This is because it is the TIRES > that > stop the car. The brakes stop the WHEELS and after that your life and car > are > in the arms of Saint Goodyear (Or Saint Yokohama, or....) > Ahem. So here is what I have found on the web - that there is a good deal > of > remaining work that can be extracted from the rear tires, even when the > front > wheels have locked. This is because the rear braking is deliberately tuned > to > avoid a spin. Triumph was conservative in their tuning, and the rear > brakes > can be made considerably more aggressive with little risk. Or so I have > read. > To measurably improve stopping distances one needs to make the rear brakes > more aggressive. Two ways to do this on the cheap - friction material or > higher applied force on the brake shoes. A quick and easy upgrade to the > rear > brakes is to fit the brake cylinders for the Sunbeam Tiger to the TR6 rear > end. They are a drop in replacement, with larger bores so that higher > force is > applied to the shoes. This in turn extracts more work from the rear tires > and > shortens braking distances. If you want improved street performance, the > rear > brake cylinder upgrade is an easy, cheap, effective mod with no machining > required. > Now, have I personally tried this? No - it falls into the "I read this, > and > have always wanted to try it" category. Is anyone out there interested in > trying this and reporting back their impressions? It would be a great bit > of > tech stuff on the cheap.... > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue Nov 10 13:22:46 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 12:22:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Brake Upgrade - My Experience Message-ID: <644089.64817.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> On advice from the List, I added the Sunbeam rear cylinders, stainless steel brake hoses, and, kevlar pads and shoes from Ted at TS Imports Automotive. Improvement was very noticable for a daily driver car. I have new copper lines nicely coiled in a bag from a Scottish ebayer, but, the straightening, bending and installation is not a job I'm itching to do. I had to do a high speed stop on the freeway the other day, - I'm thankful for the upgrade. Bruce Simms __________________________________________________________________ The new Internet Explorer. 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/ From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Nov 10 15:25:11 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 17:25:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake Upgrade - My Experience In-Reply-To: <644089.64817.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <644089.64817.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I've got all the same stuff from Ted at TSI and am very pleased with the results. This is my second season with this set up. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bruce Simms" Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:22 PM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Brake Upgrade - My Experience > On advice from the List, I added the Sunbeam rear cylinders, stainless > steel > brake hoses, and, kevlar pads and shoes from Ted at TS Imports Automotive. > Improvement was very noticable for a daily driver car. > > I have new copper > lines nicely coiled in a bag from a Scottish ebayer, but, the > straightening, > bending and installation is not a job I'm itching to do. > > I had to do a high > speed stop on the freeway the other day, - I'm thankful for the upgrade. > Bruce Simms > __________________________________________________________________ > The new > Internet Explorer. 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get > it > Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Nov 10 16:26:03 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 10 Nov 2009 15:26:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Spark Plug Recommendation Message-ID: <751153.39612.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ok, I finally got my engine tuned properly with new slightly larger needles and want to slap a new set of plugs to get the maximum performance from the engine. I have a Goodparts S-2 cam, 10/1 compression ratio, ported polished intake and exhaust, .20 over pistons and etc. I recently got my distributor rebuilt and had a pertronix ignition installed along with a compatable Bosch coil. I am currently running NGK BP6ES plugs with a .035 gap. Based on the above modifications what plugs would you guys recommend and what Gap would you use? Inquiring minds want to know. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Nov 10 17:53:30 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 00:53:30 GMT Subject: [6pack] Spark Plug Recommendation Message-ID: Mike---The plugs and current gaps you now have should do fine. You could check their coloring after about one thousand miles of your typical driving. This should tell you if you need to go hotter, or can afford to go colder in the heat range. If the needle choice was correct, you should be home free! Dick -----Original Message----- From: michael lunsford Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 3:26 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Spark Plug Recommendation Ok, I finally got my engine tuned properly with new slightly larger needles and want to slap a new set of plugs to get the maximum performance from the engine. I have a Goodparts S-2 cam, 10/1 compression ratio, ported polished intake and exhaust, .20 over pistons and etc. I recently got my distributor rebuilt and had a pertronix ignition installed along with a compatable Bosch coil. I am currently running NGK BP6ES plugs with a .035 gap. Based on the above modifications what plugs would you guys recommend and what Gap would you use? Inquiring minds want to know. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Nov 10 18:03:53 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 01:03:53 GMT Subject: [6pack] Water pump replacement Message-ID: KK---I don't know that anyone rebuilds these water pumps, altho there was an article in one of the recent 6PACK Newsletters that showed one how to do this. The installation of this pump is straight forward. You'll probably find at least one of the bolts has rusted, so I found it worthwhile to coat new ones with a bit of anti-seize. Clean off the old gasket, (be sure to get a new one) turn the pump's weep hole towards the bottom, and drive the car for another 15 years! Dick -----Original Message----- From: KKSMC at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, November 10, 2009 10:51 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net, mailman-owner at autox.team.net, webmaster at 6-pack.org Subject: [6pack] Water pump replacement Any quality/value preferences on a TR6 water pump replacement from the Big 3? New or rebuilt?? Any possible removal/replacement issues that are commonly encountered in replacing water pump? Please advise. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Nov 11 07:13:20 2009 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 08:13:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Something New (74 TR6) References: <7A0DC138EB124804A9C1A8C9E43E5A39@Dell320> Message-ID: Thank you to all who responded to my noisy 3rd gear problem. I removed the fill plug and added fluid. I took it for a short test drive and the noisy gear is once again smooth and quiet. How easy was that? The dumb current owner never bothered to check the fluid level in the tranny. The car was not completely level so I plan to have it drained this weekend to check for debris and ensure proper fluid level. I've always checked the fluid levels in the motor, brakes, clutch, dash pots, radiator & differential. Maybe I should cut down on the fluid level of the taddy porters. Hope I didn't do too much damage. Stuart From tr6nut at verizon.net Wed Nov 11 16:20:31 2009 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 18:20:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? In-Reply-To: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> References: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <4AFB46BF.8060802@verizon.net> Jim, I have these rotors on my TR6 (I'm the one referenced in the outdated link in your other email). I did not originate the idea - its referenced in one of Kas Kasner's TR books. I don't think it will give you any greater stopping distance than the non-vented Toyota caliper conversion (there's some dispute whether its any better than the stock TR caliper). It will, however, give you greater ability to stop repeatedly without fade under racing conditions - which is why I did the conversion. I eventually did away with the Toyota calipers and installed stock calipers with a spacer between the two halves of the caliper (our Girling caliper is the same "type" as used by a British Ford Capri and vented conversions are popular for those cars, so you can use the same spacer on our calipers), but that's a story for another post. Bottom line, its cheap (I can get rotors and get the machining done for the same or less than the stock TR rotor) and it works. Hugh Barber '73 TR6 Stafford, VA Jim Hurley wrote: > Hello, > > A lot of folks are familiar with the usage of 4-pot calipers from Toyota > pickup trucks to upgrade the front TR6 brakes. However I recently found a > link on a TVR site that said one could use rotors for a 1988 Toyota Cresida > in conjunction with US-spec 1988 4-cylinder Toyota 4-runner calipers. The > advantage of this setup is that the brake rotor is larger and is vented!!! > The only downside is that the rotor hole needs to be opened up a bit. > > Does anyone have any experience with this conversion? > > J From n197tr4 at cs.com Wed Nov 11 17:31:30 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 19:31:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? In-Reply-To: <4AFB46BF.8060802@verizon.net> References: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071@mail.gmail.com> <4AFB46BF.8060802@verizon.net> Message-ID: <8CC31469CC6DD59-19D4-85CE@webmail-d061.sysops.aol.com> interesting information on crossovers and upgrades...good stuff. another example we use a tr7 clutch disc in our close ratio conversion on the TR4. after destroying a short time disc at blackhawk farms, i found out that a ford disc will cross reference of course it wont make any difference if they are of equal durability. joe a -----Original Message----- From: Hugh Barber To: Jim Hurley Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, Nov 11, 2009 5:20 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? Jim, I have these rotors on my TR6 (I'm the one referenced in the outdated link in your other email). I did not originate the idea - its referenced in one of Kas Kasner's TR books. I don't think it will give you any greater stopping distance than the non-vented Toyota caliper conversion (there's some dispute whether its any better than the stock TR caliper). It will, however, give you greater ability to stop repeatedly without fade under racing conditions - which is why I did the conversion. I eventually did away with the Toyota calipers and installed stock calipers with a spacer between the two halves of the caliper (our Girling caliper is the same "type" as used by a British Ford Capri and vented conversions are popular for those cars, so you can use the same spacer on our calipers), but that's a story for another post. Bottom line, its cheap (I can get rotors and get the machining done for the same or less than the stock TR rotor) and it works. Hugh Barber '73 TR6 Stafford, VA Jim Hurley wrote: > Hello, > > A lot of folks are familiar with the usage of 4-pot calipers from Toyota > pickup trucks to upgrade the front TR6 brakes. However I recently found a > link on a TVR site that said one could use rotors for a 1988 Toyota Cresida > in conjunction with US-spec 1988 4-cylinder Toyota 4-runner calipers. The > advantage of this setup is that the brake rotor is larger and is vented!!! > The only downside is that the rotor hole needs to be opened up a bit. > > Does anyone have any experience with this conversion? > > J 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From robert.breazeale at gmail.com Wed Nov 11 18:49:10 2009 From: robert.breazeale at gmail.com (Robert Breazeale) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 17:49:10 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Speedometer issue Message-ID: Hello all, Avid watcher, seldom poster... I took my 250 out for a ride today, its been a while, nice to get back to it. All was well except for the speedometer, at about 35 mph, it would start "whir" and make all kind of noise and bounce up and down between 70-90 mph. Once I slowed down to under 35 again it would quiet down and behave normal. This would continue anytime the speed was above 35. Is this a cable lubrication issue or is it the speedometer itself finally giving up the ghost and in need of a rebuild? Kind regards, - Bob - From tr6nut at verizon.net Wed Nov 11 19:20:54 2009 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 21:20:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [Fwd: Re: Different Toyota Brake upgrade???] Message-ID: <4AFB7106.60701@verizon.net> Message-ID: <4AFB6AB7.8040302 at verizon.net> Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:53:59 -0500 From: Hugh Barber User-Agent: Thunderbird 2.0.0.23 (Windows/20090812) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Cregg Cowan Subject: Re: [6pack] Different Toyota Brake upgrade??? References: <2d6b54e10911100825l1fe02d68v484e3fe2451de071 at mail.gmail.com> <4AFB46BF.8060802 at verizon.net> <4AFB6853.8080409 at sri.com> In-Reply-To: <4AFB6853.8080409 at sri.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Cregg, That's the very kit I used. The only change I made to the rallydesign kit was that the rallydesign kit came with long cotter pins to hold the pads in (rather than the pins that are used on our Girling calipers) and I purchased some long(er) pins from Aircraft Spruce and used those instead. Don't know if it works on the "early" calipers. I have a '73 and it worked fine. The pertinent measurement is the spacing between the bolts that hold both sides of the caliper together. Hugh Barber '73 TR6 Stafford, VA Cregg Cowan wrote: > Hi Hugh, > > Do you have a source for the caliper spacer? > > I found this via google > http://www.rallydesign.co.uk/advanced_search_result.php?keywords=rd3600&x=7&y=10 > > but wasn't confident enough to order yet. > > Will the spacer fit both the 73 and 71 TR6 calipers? (I have one of > each). From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed Nov 11 21:21:00 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Wed, 11 Nov 2009 20:21:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Spark Plug Recommendation Message-ID: <730472.25876.qm@web65603.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I found some NGK BPR6EY-11 in a sale bin at .99/each so I brought em home. They already had a gap of about .37 so I installed them. I have a Crane 3000 electronic ignition, Lucas Sport Coil and Accel 8mm wires. Curious, I emailed NGK. They suggested the plugs should work fine. They recommend that one buy plugs already closely gapped to what is needed. I recall I had to really open the BPR6ES to get to .35. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ The new Internet Explorer. 8 - Faster, safer, easier. Optimized for Yahoo! Get it Now for Free! at http://downloads.yahoo.com/ca/internetexplorer/ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Nov 11 23:41:16 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 12 Nov 2009 06:41:16 GMT Subject: [6pack] Speedometer issue Message-ID: Bob---Chances are good that it's the cable. First, unscrew the cable at the back of the speedo unit, and pull it all the way out. (It's probably dirty, so watch the carpet). Apply a liberal coat of some sort of grease, like Lubriplate, and slip it back into the cable sheath. Better to not grease the last foot or so that's closer to the speedo unit, as there will be plenty that has transfered to the sheath. Be sure the cable goes all the way back into where it's driven at the tranny. The "open end" of the cable should only stick out between 5/16" to 3/8" when the cable is home. In the event that this cable greasing didn't do the trick, the sheath itself may be worn out, and a new cable complete will be needed. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Robert Breazeale Sent: Wednesday, November 11, 2009 5:49 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Speedometer issue Hello all, Avid watcher, seldom poster... I took my 250 out for a ride today, its been a while, nice to get back to it. All was well except for the speedometer, at about 35 mph, it would start "whir" and make all kind of noise and bounce up and down between 70-90 mph. Once I slowed down to under 35 again it would quiet down and behave normal. This would continue anytime the speed was above 35. Is this a cable lubrication issue or is it the speedometer itself finally giving up the ghost and in need of a rebuild? Kind regards, - Bob - 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From mjmullin at juno.com Fri Nov 13 04:47:24 2009 From: mjmullin at juno.com (mjmullin at juno.com) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 11:47:24 GMT Subject: [6pack] speedometer issue Message-ID: <20091113.064724.20097.1@webmail09.vgs.untd.com> I had the exact same problem recently (detailed in an upcoming issue of the 6-PACK newsletter?). I also had an angle drive (OD only) problem that complicated things. Tried all sorts of diagnostics, (cable turned fine unhooked from speedo during a road test) but it boiled down to the fact that the speedo drive end of the cable was too short (approx 1/4 inch) and not adequately driving the speedo...if you take it out of the sheath at the speedo end you'll see what I mean. Various listers indicated the questionable quality of replacement parts, so I lengthened the cable (a little bit) with JB Weld, and filed it to the correct square shape. Now about 5/16 inch long. It's lasted 1400 miles to Jersey and back. Listers also warned about screwing up the speedo if the cable is too long (that's the reported problem with the replacement part), so don't go overboard. Hope this helps, Matt ____________________________________________________________ Time Card Systems Never calculate time cards by hand again. View our demo to see how. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/c?cp=SaZBBeQUXJTwIpoDuoA9UwAAJz3duZf fpMtiZkZ2PXFrqeEhAAQAAAAFAAAAAMdLtz0AAANSAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAhyCAAAAAA= From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 13 08:33:25 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 10:33:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fw: speedometer issue Message-ID: Too big the 1st time.......trying again > I had my speedo rebuilt by West Valley Auto Instruments (they specialize > in British gauges) and that included getting the cable rebuilt to spec. > Morris at West Valley won't guarantee the repair work if your cable > doesn't meet spec. You can read about it here > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SpeedometerCalibration.htm > > Basically here's what he told me and what I wrote up: > > I used West Valley Auto in Reseda, Calif which specializes in British > cars. Their phone number is 818-758-9500 and ask for Morris. They did a > great job rebuilding the speedometer, including new gearing for the > odometer and a new inner cable. And turned it around in about 10 days. > > The proper cable is key to an accurate and long lasting gauge as the wrong > cable specs can damage the internal workings of the gauge. When I spoke to > Morris he asked me to measure the tip of the cable and then told me it was > 1/16" too long. He explained that basically a cable tip that's too long > or thin/fat can damage the inner workings of the gauge. > > So here's the specs that Morris requires: > 1. The minimum tip protrusion is 1/4" and the maximum is 5/16" > 2. The tip should be square and measure a minimum of .122" square to .124" > square > 3. He prefers that the cable bushing be nylon and not steel. > > If your cable doesn't meet those specs have the cable rebuilt to the > specs. It will only cost $25-$30. > > And don't assume that the new cable you just bought from Moss or TRF has > the proper specs..........measure it and confirm that it's correct. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, > Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From fishplate at charter.net Fri Nov 13 09:47:25 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 8:47:25 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Fw: speedometer issue In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20091113114725.7OY1J.8540045.root@mp12> ---- Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > The proper cable is key to an accurate and long lasting gauge > > So here's the specs that Morris requires: > > 1. The minimum tip protrusion is 1/4" and the maximum is 5/16" Protrusion measured from ??? I assume that's measured from the end of the bell that slips over the speedo, but I just want to make sure... Jeff Scarbrough Rust Bucket, Ga. From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Nov 13 13:53:52 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 15:53:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Few: speedometer issue In-Reply-To: <20091113114725.7OY1J.8540045.root@mp12> References: <20091113114725.7OY1J.8540045.root@mp12> Message-ID: <68A8C0E7A0804722898980C12824D227@BobPC> >From the face of the cable housing end to the tip of the inner cable -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Friday, November 13, 2009 11:47 AM To: "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Fw: speedometer issue > ---- Bob Danielson <75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > >> > The proper cable is key to an accurate and long lasting gauge > >> > So here's the specs that Morris requires: >> > 1. The minimum tip protrusion is 1/4" and the maximum is 5/16" > > Protrusion measured from ??? > > I assume that's measured from the end of the bell that slips over the > speedo, but I just want to make sure... > > Jeff Scarbrough > Rust Bucket, Ga. From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Fri Nov 13 15:23:35 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 14:23:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? Message-ID: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> 74 TR6 friend in my club needs his Lucas distributor rebuilt. Recommendations, approx. cost & contact information? I recall a guy named Bob Sarama? mentioned a few years ago as doing a good job at a very reasonable price. He'll even re-curve the advance for you. We're not in any rush as winter setting in here. Cheers, Bruce Simms __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From 75teer6 at gmail.com Fri Nov 13 16:26:13 2009 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 16:26:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? In-Reply-To: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0911131526q111cb63en9d61331a275470c@mail.gmail.com> Jeff at Advanced Distributors does a great job on rebuilding and refinishing all Lucas distributors. www.advanceddistributors.com Henri 1975 TR6, triple webers On Fri, Nov 13, 2009 at 3:23 PM, Bruce Simms wrote: > 74 TR6 friend in my club needs his Lucas distributor rebuilt. > Recommendations, approx. cost & contact information? > > I recall a guy named > Bob Sarama? mentioned a few years ago as doing a good job at a very reasonable > price. He'll even re-curve the advance for you. We're not in any rush as > winter setting in here. > > Cheers, > > Bruce Simms > __________________________________________________________________ > Looking for > the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! > > http://www.flickr.com/gift/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com > -- Henri 75 TR6, triple webers From yellowtr at adelphia.net Fri Nov 13 16:35:55 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:35:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? In-Reply-To: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200911131835.56251.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Friday 13 November 2009 05:23:35 pm Bruce Simms wrote: > 74 TR6 friend in my club needs his Lucas distributor rebuilt. > Recommendations, approx. cost & contact information? > > I recall a guy named > Bob Sarama? mentioned a few years ago as doing a good job at a very > reasonable price. He'll even re-curve the advance for you. We're not in > any rush as winter setting in here. > > Cheers, > > Bruce Simms > Bruce, Give Jeff at Advanced a call or email. http://www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm He did my 72, totally rebuilt, polished and even added the micro adjustment like on my 3 and 4 distros. Also new internals, bushings, points. Looks better than new! Also very reasonable cost and fast turn around. Bob From dacranez at aol.com Fri Nov 13 16:47:23 2009 From: dacranez at aol.com (dacranez at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:47:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? In-Reply-To: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CC32D2C8224C77-3E5C-17F96@webmail-d007.sysops.aol.com> I had mine rebuilt and recurved by Jeff Schlemmer at Advanced Distributors. Works perfectly and turn around was prompt. www.advanceddistributors.com Go to his site and download the spec sheet. Mike C? 71 TR6, 68 TR250 -----Original Message----- From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca> To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Nov 13, 2009 2:23 pm Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? 74 TR6 friend in my club needs his Lucas distributor rebuilt. Recommendations, approx. cost & contact information? I recall a guy named Bob Sarama? mentioned a few years ago as doing a good job at a very reasonable price. He'll even re-curve the advance for you. We're not in any rush as winter setting in here. Cheers, Bruce Simms __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as dacranez at aol.com From n197tr4 at cs.com Fri Nov 13 16:52:37 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:52:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0911131526q111cb63en9d61331a275470c@mail.gmail.com> References: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <83dfea6b0911131526q111cb63en9d61331a275470c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8CC32D382FEE7FC-89D8-7F85@webmail-m031.sysops.aol.com> absolutely! he did a special dist. for my AMBRO/TR And I just visited his shop in Shakopee, MN I have two more for him to do.... Joe A -----Original Message----- From: Henri Lefebvre <75teer6 at gmail.com> To: Bruce Simms Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, Nov 13, 2009 5:26 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? Jeff at Advanced Distributors does a great job on rebuilding and efinishing all Lucas distributors. www.advanceddistributors.com enri 975 TR6, triple webers On Fri, Nov 13, 2009 at 3:23 PM, Bruce Simms wrote: 74 TR6 friend in my club needs his Lucas distributor rebuilt. Recommendations, approx. cost & contact information? I recall a guy named Bob Sarama? mentioned a few years ago as doing a good job at a very easonable price. He'll even re-curve the advance for you. We're not in any rush as winter setting in here. Cheers, Bruce Simms __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com -- enri 5 TR6, triple webers 6pack at autox.team.net ttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From emanteno at gmail.com Fri Nov 13 17:32:50 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Fri, 13 Nov 2009 18:32:50 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilders? In-Reply-To: <200911131835.56251.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <741052.79769.qm@web65608.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <200911131835.56251.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <354a1780911131632o574e22b0j1e9111ff2d2deb8c@mail.gmail.com> On Fri, Nov 13, 2009 at 5:35 PM, Bob wrote: > > Bruce, > > Give Jeff at Advanced a call or email. > > http://www.advanceddistributors.com/index.htm > > He did my 72, totally rebuilt, polished and even added the micro adjustment > like on my 3 and 4 distros. Also new internals, bushings, points. Looks > better > than new! Also very reasonable cost and fast turn around. Another happy, satisfied Advanced Distributors customer. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From Peter.Cherouny at vtmednet.org Sat Nov 14 14:48:47 2009 From: Peter.Cherouny at vtmednet.org (Cherouny, Peter H.) Date: Sat, 14 Nov 2009 16:48:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] FW: 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 326 In-Reply-To: <8DC119CE87BF4C48B9F5BB18AF61A1A1010F2D25B233@EMAIL2.fahc.fletcherallen.org> References: , <8DC119CE87BF4C48B9F5BB18AF61A1A1010F2D25B233@EMAIL2.fahc.fletcherallen.org> Message-ID: <8DC119CE87BF4C48B9F5BB18AF61A1A1010F2D25B23F@EMAIL2.fahc.fletcherallen.org> Hello: Did a frame off rebuild of my '75 in 2003-04. I'm now switching engines as my original '75 engine rebuild shattered a piston and blew a 2 x 3 inch hole in the right lower area of the block. Thought I'd do a few winter mods on the '74 engine I bought before I drop it in. Does the stock flywheel act like a damper? Do any other mods need to be made when placing a lighter one? Any other mods anyone suggest while its out? Now that I lost the original engine I'm not as "keep it original" minded as I was. Thanks From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun Nov 15 19:51:37 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 18:51:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Distributor Rebuilder Message-ID: <206930.88071.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Thanks to all who responded. List is a unanimous thumbs up to Jeff at Advanced Distributors. This was for a friend, but after your comments and reviewing his website, now I want to send in my old distributor! Bruce Simms 73 TR6 __________________________________________________________________ Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Nov 15 20:59:11 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 15 Nov 2009 22:59:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Some TR4 & 6 parts for sale, Ohio Message-ID: I need to make some room to work in the shop. I am located about 30 minutes south west of Cleveland Ohio. Don't want to mess with shipping, maybe somebody in the area can use them. Two TR6 differentials, one TR4A differential with drive shaft. $125 each. TR4 Engine without manifolds or carbs, $250. Black TR6 interior, panels, carpet, reupholstered seats out of a 1972 TR6. Seats are like new the rest is good to fair. Would not put them in a show car but if you are doing a refresh they would be ideal. Make me an offer on the interior. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ From n197tr4 at cs.com Mon Nov 16 11:27:36 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 13:27:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 SEAT CONVERSION KIT-MIATA Message-ID: <8CC35019AE38DEC-868-3327@webmail-d025.sysops.aol.com> SIX PACK LIST: Jack Drews' original seat conversion kit is back in production. Kits have been produced and packaged in a custom box with instructions and installation diagram. My son was already producing most of the kit, for Uncle Jack, so this is a logical move. I have no financial participation in this project other than providing the cost of production. I will also help Sean market the product. I can be your contact for orders. He ran about 25 kits. If demand supports it, everything is in place to continue production. Thanks! Joe A. From apackard68 at att.net Mon Nov 16 16:13:05 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 15:13:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Looking for advice on a washed out cylinder Message-ID: <736956.60216.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi list. Please check out two photos I posted on the Forums, under Mechanical Repair, called "#4 cylinder wash-out". I'm hoping to get advice through Forums or our traditional list format. thanks in advance. Andy CD6746L From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Nov 16 16:34:27 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:34:27 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Looking for advice on a washed out cylinder In-Reply-To: <736956.60216.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <736956.60216.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 16 Nov 2009, Andrew Packard wrote: > Hi list. Please check out two photos I posted on the Forums, under Mechanical > Repair, called "#4 cylinder wash-out". I'm hoping to get advice through > Forums or our traditional list format. thanks in advance. I'm not sure I've posted on 6-pack yet and if so cannot recall my access info, but there's two keys to this mystery: 1. down compression in cylinder 4 2. oil leaks. My guess is a broken ring (probably the top compression ring) OR an improperly installed ring. The latter is actually more likely as it's a common installation problem. In some cases, even though you orient the rings the right way, when you compress them the gaps may line up and you get a lot of leakdown. That pressurizes the crankcase and stuff leaks EVERYWHERE. I've seen this several times. Both with motors I built and others' motors that I've looked at for folks. Seeing that you have the head off, drop the pan and pull the piston. You're already 90% there when the head is pulled. I'll bet the spark plug was oil fouled too. > Andy > CD6746L regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Nov 16 16:41:54 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert M. Lang) Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 18:41:54 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Looking for advice on a washed out cylinder In-Reply-To: <736956.60216.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <736956.60216.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, I'm sorry to say, I'm not completely up to speed on your problem, but if you have webers DCOE's, I'd also check to make sure the aux venturi is installed correctly. If those are flipped, the fuel can't run into the airstream properly and the motor will be flat cause that cyl. is barely firing. But I'd still make sure the rings are okay on that hole. I mean - you're "there" with the motor tear down. Yuo might as well verify what you have. Re-reading the thread, it sounds like the motor is presently together and in the car... If so, I'd do a leakdown test and verify blow-by and then "go from there". You could also have a cylinder that's "out of round" which can cause wierd compression issues (e.g. the rings _can't_ seal). regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Triumph TR6!! | This space for rent 2009 NER Solo Chair | Voice:617-253-7438 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Nov 16 17:18:33 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 16 Nov 2009 16:18:33 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Looking for advice on a washed out cylinder In-Reply-To: <736956.60216.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <736956.60216.qm@web83810.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5D61C0E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Andy: Looks like heavy fuel wash. I am on the side of your mechanic; either minimal or no ignition in this cylinder. Fuel wash would cause excessive ring and cylinder wall wear, leading to the low compression. Another possibility is that your carb is over fueling this cylinder, or it is leaking fuel into the manifold that in turn is pulled preferentially into cylinder four because of the shape of the manifold and/or other factors. Make sure your carb is not leaking fuel either while running, or after running, and that you are getting a healthy spark to that cylinder. I had a Toyota years ago that had a bad needle valve, allowing the bowl to overfill and leak into the intake manifold after the car was shut off. On startup, one cylinder got an enormous shot of fuel that washed away the oil and eventually caused the loss of compression in that cylinder. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Packard Sent: Monday, November 16, 2009 3:13 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Looking for advice on a washed out cylinder Hi list. Please check out two photos I posted on the Forums, under Mechanical Repair, called "#4 cylinder wash-out". I'm hoping to get advice through Forums or our traditional list format. thanks in advance. Andy CD6746L From StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org Fri Nov 20 20:13:55 2009 From: StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org (Glenn A. Merrell - TSN) Date: Fri, 20 Nov 2009 20:13:55 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Stag frame dimensions Message-ID: <4B075AF3.6080703@triumphstagclub.org> All, Sorry to deluge all the Triumph lists. A local repair shoppe has asked me for frame dimensions to put a Stag they have back to OE points. Of course I directed them to the Stag ROM section 76, or to an unbent Stag or two that I have. Problem is, the points in the Repair Operations Manual are all referenced to the Six (6) Churchill special frame jig tooling and points are all measured off of those jigs precision bolt holes or precision bracket edges for positioning. I recall when I was a kid at the dealership in Pennsylvania that there were two US equipment companies - Great Bear, I think was one I remember that had all the frame points translated to frame checking straightening equipment buried into concrete from standard datum points that could be referenced from a set of squared up datum points on a flat floor / inlaid frame rails. Has anyone located any of these type of stand alone specifications, the full set of Churchill tooling, or other datum points and measurements that can be used to stretch a Stag back into proper "square"? If so, please contact me. Might also be handy to archive this information for all the other Triumph model lines, but I recall that TR7's and TR8's are programmed into some of the popular frame straightening equipment. I know RATCO does TR4/5/250/6 frames and has those jigs, but Stags are a bit more rare in North America. Thanks! -- Glenn Merrell TSN Admin http://www.triumphstag.net mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org From trmarty at hotmail.com Sat Nov 21 07:14:02 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 09:14:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack Message-ID: As my rebuild continues I need to replace the steering rack that was taken out in my oops. I have a used spare in my parts pile that I could freshen up but I am dreaming about one of those quick ratio units. Not sure I justify the cost. Anybody installed one in their car? Do you like it? Whats the best source for it? Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com Sat Nov 21 11:37:13 2009 From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark Bullard) Date: Sat, 21 Nov 2009 08:37:13 -1000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <311AFE95-00D5-408E-AC5C-89D53290E754@hawaii.rr.com> Marty, A couple of guy made the switch on the forum and as I remember, at least one switched back. Apparently the new rack is very responsive, too much so for everyday street use I believe. You may want to do a search on the forum on this. Good luck. Aloha, Mark On Nov 21, 2009, at 4:14 AM, marty sukey wrote: > As my rebuild continues I need to replace the steering rack that was > taken out > in my oops. I have a used spare in my parts pile that I could > freshen up but I > am dreaming about one of those quick ratio units. Not sure I justify > the cost. > Anybody installed one in their car? Do you like it? Whats the best > source for it? From tom628 at verizon.net Sat Nov 21 23:18:34 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 01:18:34 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack References: Message-ID: <4683C2D515904D07892B3E8EE5FA01A6@Toms> Marty: Ours was installed by the PO, and it's all we've known. I like it very much. The car seems to respond almost as you think about it. Some guys don't like it because they say you can't relax w/o the car drifting off line, but I don't find that to be the case at all. And if you enjoy spirited driving, the steering is a joy thru the twisties. I've recently tried the stock rack in another TR6, and it's fine, but I'm spoiled by the quick rack. Some people have said it's heavy steering, especially for parking, but my (adult) daughter has no problems or complaints with it. If you're anywhere near the So. Central PA area you're welcome to try ours. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "marty sukey" To: "6 Digest" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" Sent: Saturday, November 21, 2009 9:14 AM Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering rack > As my rebuild continues I need to replace the steering rack that was taken > out > in my oops. I have a used spare in my parts pile that I could freshen up > but I > am dreaming about one of those quick ratio units. Not sure I justify the > cost. > Anybody installed one in their car? Do you like it? Whats the best source > for > it? > > Thanks, > Marty > > _________________________________________________________________ > Hotmail: Trusted email with powerful SPAM protection. > http://clk.atdmt.com/GBL/go/177141665/direct/01/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Nov 22 17:31:33 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 22 Nov 2009 19:31:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Off Topic but a must have! Message-ID: I know this is off topic but wouldn't it be great? http://s226.photobucket.com/albums/dd6/twodzusfittings/?action=view ¤t=MOVIE-WHY_MEN_HAVE_SHEDS_1_.flv Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/ From William.Couzelis at CNA.com Mon Nov 23 06:38:23 2009 From: William.Couzelis at CNA.com (Couzelis,William M.) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 07:38:23 -0600 Subject: [6pack] LED Flasher Unit Message-ID: Hi List, I recently installed LED's for my front and rear directional lights in my '71 TR-6. I understand that the low current draw will not activate the flasher unit. Has anyone found a 2-prong flasher unit for LED's that works for this application? Thanks All, Bill E-MAIL CONFIDENTIALITY NOTICE: The contents of this e-mail message and any attachments are intended solely for the addressee(s) and may contain confidential and/or legally privileged information. If you are not the intended recipient of this message or if this message has been addressed to you in error, please immediately alert the sender by reply e-mail and then delete this message and any attachments. If you are not the intended recipient, you are notified that any use, dissemination, distribution, copying, or storage of this message or any attachment is strictly prohibited. From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Mon Nov 23 13:56:00 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 12:56:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question Message-ID: <798799.67082.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Last March, 17 offshore oil workers & crew were killed when their Sikorsky chopper fell hard into the Atlantic off Newfoundland. The titanium studs that held the gearbox oil filter in place failed, leading to a massive loss of oil pressure. Subsequent service bulletin for these machines had them change out the titanium studs out for steel ones. I thought titanium is stronger then steel? Hey, inquiring minds wanta know. Thanks, Bruce Simms __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Nov 23 15:51:28 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 23 Nov 2009 14:51:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question In-Reply-To: <798799.67082.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <798799.67082.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E68C2E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Titanium has many wonderful properties, but it is not, generally speaking, stronger than steel. It is AS STRONG AS steel, and weighs 40% less. It also has a much higher melting point than either aluminum or steel, which is why it is used on the SR71. Titanium has excellent corrosion resistance compared to steel. Some drawbacks to titanium: It has a much lower modulus of elasticity than steel. This means it stretches a great deal more than steel at the same PSI load. Titanium has poorer fatigue resistance than steel. It will crack much sooner when it is cyclically loaded at or near its yield strength. Cyclic loading strength is typically HALF that of carbon steel for equivalent life. Titanium is exceedingly difficult to machine, whereas steel can be machined, then heat treated greatly reducing processing costs. Special tooling is required to machine Titanium, such as when cutting threads on studs. It will weaken dramatically when contaminated with even small amounts of some materials such as Cadmium or Chlorine. Normally this means that you must have two sets of tools, one for titanium and one for everything else. Your tools pick up trace amounts of cadmium from ordinary bolts, and this will be transferred to titanium. If the titanium then is used at high temperatures, it will fail in spectacular fashion (e.g. heads falling off of bolts for no apparent reason). My guess is that the studs failed due to fatigue (i.e. cyclic loading failure) so the bulletin said replace them with steel. Cheaper, stronger, longer lasting. Only drawback is weight in this application. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 12:56 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question Last March, 17 offshore oil workers & crew were killed when their Sikorsky chopper fell hard into the Atlantic off Newfoundland. The titanium studs that held the gearbox oil filter in place failed, leading to a massive loss of oil pressure. Subsequent service bulletin for these machines had them change out the titanium studs out for steel ones. I thought titanium is stronger then steel? Hey, inquiring minds wanta know. Thanks, Bruce Simms From brian at asmoothmove.biz Tue Nov 24 09:23:47 2009 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 10:23:47 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E68C2E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <798799.67082.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E68C2E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <005901ca6d22$8030fc10$8092f430$@biz> This was an impressive explanation. I often wondered what the basic differences between steel and titanium were. Thank you for sharing this. Brian J. Alwin -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 4:51 PM To: Bruce Simms; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question Titanium has many wonderful properties, but it is not, generally speaking, stronger than steel. It is AS STRONG AS steel, and weighs 40% less. It also has a much higher melting point than either aluminum or steel, which is why it is used on the SR71. Titanium has excellent corrosion resistance compared to steel. Some drawbacks to titanium: It has a much lower modulus of elasticity than steel. This means it stretches a great deal more than steel at the same PSI load. Titanium has poorer fatigue resistance than steel. It will crack much sooner when it is cyclically loaded at or near its yield strength. Cyclic loading strength is typically HALF that of carbon steel for equivalent life. Titanium is exceedingly difficult to machine, whereas steel can be machined, then heat treated greatly reducing processing costs. Special tooling is required to machine Titanium, such as when cutting threads on studs. It will weaken dramatically when contaminated with even small amounts of some materials such as Cadmium or Chlorine. Normally this means that you must have two sets of tools, one for titanium and one for everything else. Your tools pick up trace amounts of cadmium from ordinary bolts, and this will be transferred to titanium. If the titanium then is used at high temperatures, it will fail in spectacular fashion (e.g. heads falling off of bolts for no apparent reason). My guess is that the studs failed due to fatigue (i.e. cyclic loading failure) so the bulletin said replace them with steel. Cheaper, stronger, longer lasting. Only drawback is weight in this application. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 12:56 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question Last March, 17 offshore oil workers & crew were killed when their Sikorsky chopper fell hard into the Atlantic off Newfoundland. The titanium studs that held the gearbox oil filter in place failed, leading to a massive loss of oil pressure. Subsequent service bulletin for these machines had them change out the titanium studs out for steel ones. I thought titanium is stronger then steel? Hey, inquiring minds wanta know. Thanks, Bruce Simms 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as brian at asmoothmove.biz From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Tue Nov 24 22:14:01 2009 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Tue, 24 Nov 2009 21:14:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Starter connection Message-ID: <890565.80270.qm@web113608.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> About a month ago I was noticing the ignition light flickering on as I drove at night. One of the members said it might be a loose connection on the starter. It was. I have one of the new high torque starters for what that's worth. I checked the wires and the small one with a spade connection was loose. In fact the thing it plugged into came off with it when I took it off to reseat it. I figure this means a heap of trouble but want opinions.John Summers'74 TR6 From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Nov 25 08:16:52 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 10:16:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] psgr seat seat-belt switch Message-ID: <200911251016.52993.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hi, Ready to install the seat-belt switch on the psgr. seat and am wondering how to orientate the switch. Do the wires come out the rear or the inside facing the drive shaft tunnel? Switch was in a box when I picked up the car. Just trying to get it correct. This is a late 72. Bob From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Nov 25 12:54:43 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 11:54:43 -0800 Subject: [6pack] psgr seat seat-belt switch In-Reply-To: <200911251016.52993.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200911251016.52993.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E694A8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bob: I put in switches on both seats. I pointed the wires forward on both seats. My reasoning went like this: What will happen when you unlatch the seat and tip it forward? If the wires are to the rear or the side, they will need to stretch as the seat is tipped forward, possibly constraining the motion of the seat, or worse becoming entangled or breaking. By pointing the wires forward, the need to stretch as the seat is tipped is minimized. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 7:17 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] psgr seat seat-belt switch Hi, Ready to install the seat-belt switch on the psgr. seat and am wondering how to orientate the switch. Do the wires come out the rear or the inside facing the drive shaft tunnel? Switch was in a box when I picked up the car. Just trying to get it correct. This is a late 72. Bob From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Nov 25 14:19:35 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 21:19:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] psgr seat seat-belt switch In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E694A8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <200911251016.52993.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E694A8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280D9EA2@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> My as yet unrestored 74.5 seats have the wires exiting through one of the holes in the diaphragm at the center front of the seat as Vance describes. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, November 25, 2009 2:55 PM To: Bob; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] psgr seat seat-belt switch Bob: I put in switches on both seats. I pointed the wires forward on both seats. My reasoning went like this: What will happen when you unlatch the seat and tip it forward? If the wires are to the rear or the side, they will need to stretch as the seat is tipped forward, possibly constraining the motion of the seat, or worse becoming entangled or breaking. By pointing the wires forward, the need to stretch as the seat is tipped is minimized. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Nov 25 15:03:08 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 17:03:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] psgr seat seat-belt switch In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E694A8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <200911251016.52993.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E694A8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <200911251703.08999.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 25 November 2009 02:54:43 pm Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Bob: > > I put in switches on both seats. I pointed the wires forward on both > seats. My reasoning went like this: What will happen when you unlatch the > seat and tip it forward? If the wires are to the rear or the side, they > will need to stretch as the seat is tipped forward, possibly constraining > the motion of the seat, or worse becoming entangled or breaking. By > pointing the wires forward, the need to stretch as the seat is tipped is > minimized. That's my story and I'm sticking to it. > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast Vance, Well that is what I did! While waiting for responses, I looked at the switch, foam etc and came to the same conclusion. The only way it will work if the wire outlet is on the pivot of the seat. Thanks for confirming my installation. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Wed Nov 25 17:04:12 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 25 Nov 2009 19:04:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] psgr seat seat-belt switch In-Reply-To: <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280D9EA2@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <200911251016.52993.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E694A8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <374688214A8F144B8079509380A4AF280D9EA2@G4W1848.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <200911251904.13292.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Wednesday 25 November 2009 04:19:35 pm Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote: > My as yet unrestored 74.5 seats have the wires exiting through one of the > holes in the diaphragm at the center front of the seat as Vance describes. > > Stan > Stan, Thanks for the post. I added jute webbing sewn to the tubbing under where the diaphragm is attached. On top of the webbing I added a layer of high density foam. This really added some firmness to the seat. So routing the wired through a diaphragm hole was out of the question. I routed the wires over the diaphragm to down the front. Bob From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Nov 25 23:51:31 2009 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Thu, 26 Nov 2009 01:51:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question References: <798799.67082.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E68C2E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: Most interesting. Thanks for the detailed overview Vance. Then a question: Can one solder to titanium? I have a nice wristwatch in titanium, Unfortunately a little metal tang snapped off the wrist band and now the clasp does not stay closed. I would love to solder on a replacement bit from steel or whatnot. Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 ________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net on behalf of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Mon 23/11/2009 5:51 PM To: Bruce Simms; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question Titanium has many wonderful properties, but it is not, generally speaking, stronger than steel. It is AS STRONG AS steel, and weighs 40% less. It also has a much higher melting point than either aluminum or steel, which is why it is used on the SR71. Titanium has excellent corrosion resistance compared to steel. Some drawbacks to titanium: It has a much lower modulus of elasticity than steel. This means it stretches a great deal more than steel at the same PSI load. Titanium has poorer fatigue resistance than steel. It will crack much sooner when it is cyclically loaded at or near its yield strength. Cyclic loading strength is typically HALF that of carbon steel for equivalent life. Titanium is exceedingly difficult to machine, whereas steel can be machined, then heat treated greatly reducing processing costs. Special tooling is required to machine Titanium, such as when cutting threads on studs. It will weaken dramatically when contaminated with even small amounts of some materials such as Cadmium or Chlorine. Normally this means that you must have two sets of tools, one for titanium and one for everything else. Your tools pick up trace amounts of cadmium from ordinary bolts, and this will be transferred to titanium. If the titanium then is used at high temperatures, it will fail in spectacular fashion (e.g. heads falling off of bolts for no apparent reason). My guess is that the studs failed due to fatigue (i.e. cyclic loading failure) so the bulletin said replace them with steel. Cheaper, stronger, longer lasting. Only drawback is weight in this application. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bruce Simms Sent: Monday, November 23, 2009 12:56 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Non LBC, Metallurgy related Question Last March, 17 offshore oil workers & crew were killed when their Sikorsky chopper fell hard into the Atlantic off Newfoundland. The titanium studs that held the gearbox oil filter in place failed, leading to a massive loss of oil pressure. Subsequent service bulletin for these machines had them change out the titanium studs out for steel ones. I thought titanium is stronger then steel? Hey, inquiring minds wanta know. Thanks, Bruce Simms From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Nov 29 14:41:58 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 16:41:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Insulation Message-ID: <7FCDBF74DF684F77865980ADAB61DAD8@Alan> Has anyone used this sound deading insulation? http://www.b-quiet.com/brownbread.html Seems very reasonable. Al From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Nov 29 20:44:32 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 29 Nov 2009 21:44:32 -0600 Subject: [6pack] alternator woes Message-ID: <268AC4E6F0A7417F8883155E7442BD98@ranteer.local> hi, all. hope you had a great thanksgiving! ours was full of football! anyway, back to the issue at hand. 1972 tr6 rebuilt alternator put on within the last couple of years. clearly went out, replaced it with a spare which poofed in about 5 minutes. a little smoke. figured it was the alternator (both of them), and bought a bosch. put it in and it melted the insulation on the brown wire inside the harness. whoops. car seems fine with no alternator, although that's a very short term solution anyone want to hazard a guess? suggest what to check? many thanks in advance . . . From coffeycreek at yahoo.com Mon Nov 30 03:48:50 2009 From: coffeycreek at yahoo.com (mark creek) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 02:48:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] help cancel Message-ID: <186513.75773.qm@web113204.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> neucmaih is my password, please cancel my auto subscription thanks Mark From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Nov 30 07:43:48 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 06:43:48 -0800 Subject: [6pack] alternator woes References: <268AC4E6F0A7417F8883155E7442BD98@ranteer.local> Message-ID: <000c01ca71cb$869f0a30$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com> Hi Oliver, The electrical diagram I have shows: The heavy brown wire goes directly to 12 volts on the starter. The brown white goes to the ammeter. The brown yellow goes to ignition light circuit. Unless a PO made wiring changes of course, then who knows?? I seem to remember you had to rewire for a replacement style alternator when yours failed? Putting the brown wire anywhere but where it belongs on the alternator will cause BIG smoke. Seems your only choice is to first confirm the current wiring is correct and at the same time be sure none of the wires are shorting to frame or other wires. Good luck. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 7:44 PM Subject: [6pack] alternator woes > hi, all. > > hope you had a great thanksgiving! ours was full of football! > > anyway, back to the issue at hand. > > 1972 tr6 > > rebuilt alternator put on within the last couple of years. clearly went out, > replaced it with a spare which poofed in about 5 minutes. a little smoke. > > figured it was the alternator (both of them), and bought a bosch. put it in > and it melted the insulation on the brown wire inside the harness. > > whoops. > > car seems fine with no alternator, although that's a very short term solution > > > anyone want to hazard a guess? suggest what to check? > > many thanks in advance . . . > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) > Database version: 6.13800 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.1.0.447) Database version: 6.13800 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Nov 30 06:47:26 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 08:47:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] alternator woes In-Reply-To: <000c01ca71cb$869f0a30$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <268AC4E6F0A7417F8883155E7442BD98@ranteer.local> <000c01ca71cb$869f0a30$9be17b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: If you don't have one, go to the AAW site (http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf) and download the free color wire schematic for your car. Dan Masters worked with a bunch of Triumph Mail List guys to come up with, what's considered by most, to be the best and most accurate wire diagrams for most Triumphs. In the 6-Pack Forum this is what we all use for diagnosing electrical problems. However, as pointed out by Bob in his response, if the PO "rearranged" stuff......... who knows what goes where :-( Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: "Bob" Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 9:43 AM To: "oliver" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] alternator woes > Hi Oliver, > The electrical diagram I have shows: > The heavy brown wire goes directly to 12 volts on the starter. > The brown white goes to the ammeter. > The brown yellow goes to ignition light circuit. > Unless a PO made wiring changes of course, then who knows?? > I seem to remember you had to rewire for a replacement style alternator > when > yours failed? > Putting the brown wire anywhere but where it belongs on the alternator > will > cause BIG smoke. > Seems your only choice is to first confirm the current wiring is correct > and > at the same time be sure none of the wires are shorting to frame or other > wires. > Good luck. > Regards, > Bob > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "oliver" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Sunday, November 29, 2009 7:44 PM > Subject: [6pack] alternator woes > > >> hi, all. >> >> hope you had a great thanksgiving! ours was full of football! >> >> anyway, back to the issue at hand. >> >> 1972 tr6 >> >> rebuilt alternator put on within the last couple of years. clearly went > out, >> replaced it with a spare which poofed in about 5 minutes. a little >> smoke. >> >> figured it was the alternator (both of them), and bought a bosch. put it > in >> and it melted the insulation on the brown wire inside the harness. >> >> whoops. >> >> car seems fine with no alternator, although that's a very short term > solution >> >> >> anyone want to hazard a guess? suggest what to check? >> >> many thanks in advance . . . From wcwellbaum at cox.net Mon Nov 30 08:34:02 2009 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (wcwellbaum at cox.net) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 7:34:02 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles Message-ID: <20091130103402.CQ2TW.358868.imail@fed1rmwml31> Looking for some guidance here: couple of years ago I installed the Blind Moose gas shock mod and almost immediately began to notice a rattling sound coming from the driver's side rear suspension. Over time it has grown worse. On smooth pavement--no problems. On rough pavement--particularly brick or cobble stone roads it sounds as if the entire rear end of the car is ready to fall out. Over the weekend I removed everything except the diff in an effort to find the cause of the rattle or banging. The swing arm bushing are relatively new and tight. All nuts were tight on the shock assembly and the half shafts. Bolts from the flange to the diff were tight. Everything is tight which leads me to think I may have a fracture some where. I spent an hour yesterday looking for signs of a fracture but had no luck. Can anyone out there describe for me where to look. Does anyone have a photo showing where they encountered a fracture that sounded like a rattle on rough pavement? I just don't know what else to look for. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Nov 30 09:34:59 2009 From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 11:34:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles In-Reply-To: <20091130103402.CQ2TW.358868.imail@fed1rmwml31> References: <20091130103402.CQ2TW.358868.imail@fed1rmwml31> Message-ID: Bill, Check out my site for the Blind Moose install which shows what can break and the bracket you should add: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BlindMoose.htm What you'll find is that their kit puts a huge strain on the stock lever bracket that it mounts to and you have to add a brace or the stock lever bracket will crack over time. Check out this picture and you'll see how it can crack: http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Blind%20Moose/BrokenMount.jpg Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection, Toyota 5 speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -------------------------------------------------- From: Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 10:34 AM To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles > Looking for some guidance here: couple of years ago I installed the Blind > Moose gas shock mod and almost immediately began to notice a rattling > sound coming from the driver's side rear suspension. Over time it has > grown worse. On smooth pavement--no problems. On rough > pavement--particularly brick or cobble stone roads it sounds as if the > entire rear end of the car is ready to fall out. > Over the weekend I removed everything except the diff in an effort to find > the cause of the rattle or banging. The swing arm bushing are relatively > new and tight. All nuts were tight on the shock assembly and the half > shafts. Bolts from the flange to the diff were tight. Everything is > tight which leads me to think I may have a fracture some where. I spent > an hour yesterday looking for signs of a fracture but had no luck. > Can anyone out there describe for me where to look. Does anyone have a > photo showing where they encountered a fracture that sounded like a rattle > on rough pavement? I just don't know what else to look for. > > Bill Wellbaum > Las Vegas > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Nov 30 10:14:09 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 09:14:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] FW: TR-6 rear suspension rattles Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795712E5E698D7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bill: One place that people get into trouble with shock conversions is the mount where the old lever shock used to attach. These will not tolerate bottoming or topping of the suspension for very long before they crack. It seems that if the shock is acting as a suspension stop the mount will crack. If the bump stop on the top of the trailing arm is acting as the stop then everything works fine. So check to see that bump stop is bottoming out and not the shock and verify that the lever arm shock mount is not cracked. Another possibility is something that I dealt with on my stock suspension car. There are some thick c-shaped aluminum washers between the top of the frame and the body for the rear parcel shelf. If the body mounting bolt gets loose, these washers can fall out, and then the body will knock up against the frame over any sort of rough road. You can only check the bolts by peeling up the carpet on the rear parcel shelf. If they are loose, you have almost certainly lost the spacer and need to replace it before tightening the bolt. Part number 803-535 at moss. It is called an aluminum "Pad". They are very thick washers with a slot cut in them so that they can be installed with the bolt already in place. I suggest you look for one of these missing between the top frame cross bridge (retains the suspension springs) and the body. You will need a dental mirror and a flash light to see them, since they are only visible from the edge and you will not be able to get your head close enough to see them. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of wcwellbaum at cox.net Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 7:34 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles Looking for some guidance here: couple of years ago I installed the Blind Moose gas shock mod and almost immediately began to notice a rattling sound coming from the driver's side rear suspension. Over time it has grown worse. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Nov 30 11:02:03 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 13:02:03 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles References: <20091130103402.CQ2TW.358868.imail@fed1rmwml31> Message-ID: <498C6884C1804D54A699CEC169E317B4@Alan> The problem, I believe it's the front right pin that holds the differential in place that cracks or breaks loose from the diff crossmember. That happens over time with the regular shocks due to the torque stress from acceleration. You will have to drop the differential to see it. This is inherent to the design. If its mild the crack may only be visable from the top of the frame. To do a proper repair the body has to come off, or cut a hole in the rear parcel shelf to get access to the top of the cross member. The conversion shock will cause the differential cross bar to break loose at the low point where it has a small weld connecting it to the frame, as in Bob's picture. Once you have made the repair I would recommend boxing in the diff crossbar. I still don't like the idea of bolting a support to the frame because now the frame has to take the added stress. No scientific info and there are many opinions on this. Other Clunks can come from a bad rear hub, or the diff itself, but thats another book. cheers, Al photos of diff crossbar streightening kit from TSI. http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/DSC01809.jpg http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/DSC01811.jpg http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/DSC01812.jpg http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/74tr6/?start=120 From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Nov 30 12:14:18 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 14:14:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles In-Reply-To: <20091130103402.CQ2TW.358868.imail@fed1rmwml31> References: <20091130103402.CQ2TW.358868.imail@fed1rmwml31> Message-ID: <8CC400872FE7715-1FFC-2D4ED@webmail-d097.sysops.aol.com> Bill, Take a look at pictures I have posted on triumphowners.com/108 listed under Rear Shock Conversion Problems. It outlines where I had my problems with my conversion. If nothing else it will show you were to look to make sure you have no cracks in the rear frame. Yell if you have any questions. Aaron -----Original Message----- From: wcwellbaum at cox.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, Nov 30, 2009 10:34 am Subject: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles Looking for some guidance here: couple of years ago I installed the Blind Moose gas shock mod and almost immediately began to notice a rattling sound coming from the driver's side rear suspension. Over time it has grown worse. On smooth pavement--no problems. On rough pavement--particularly brick or cobble stone roads it sounds as if the entire rear end of the car is ready to fall out. Over the weekend I removed everything except the diff in an effort to find the cause of the rattle or banging. The swing arm bushing are relatively new and tight. All nuts were tight on the shock assembly and the half shafts. Bolts from the flange to the diff were tight. Everything is tight which leads me to think I may have a fracture some where. I spent an hour yesterday looking for signs of a fracture but had no luck. Can anyone out there describe for me where to look. Does anyone have a photo showing where they encountered a fracture that sounded like a rattle on rough pavement? I just don't know what else to look for. Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as acekraut11 at aol.com From jhmdds at aol.com Mon Nov 30 17:07:55 2009 From: jhmdds at aol.com (jhmdds at aol.com) Date: Mon, 30 Nov 2009 19:07:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Wrist Pins Message-ID: <8CC40317760E377-304C-3143@webmail-m091.sysops.aol.com> I sent my pistons to be coated with teflon. Forgot to take out the wrist pins. Now they have been separated from one another and the pins cannot be located. Does anyone have a source for wrist pins and circlips for my Tr6 pistons? Found a website with different wrist pin sizes. Of course that doesn't help me since I don't have one to measure. If someone can measure the dimensions maybe that would be a good route. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, James From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Nov 30 18:27:16 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 01:27:16 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: Tr6 Wrist Pins Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 5:04 PM To: jhmdds at aol.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Tr6 Wrist Pins James---Wrist pins should be fitted to their respective pistons, as their tolerances are so close. If you want to chance that you can get a set that fits, try TRF and their part number 149215, known to them as the "gudgeon pin". Just for the heck of it, I measured a few piston/pins that I had under the bench. All were very close to .8115. Emphasis on 'close'! Dick -----Original Message----- From: jhmdds at aol.com Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 4:07 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net, 6pack-request at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Wrist Pins I sent my pistons to be coated with teflon. Forgot to take out the wrist pins. Now they have been separated from one another and the pins cannot be located. Does anyone have a source for wrist pins and circlips for my Tr6 pistons? Found a website with different wrist pin sizes. Of course that doesn't help me since I don't have one to measure. If someone can measure the dimensions maybe that would be a good route. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, James 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Nov 30 18:28:34 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 01 Dec 2009 01:28:34 GMT Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: TR-6 rear suspension rattles Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Monday, November 30, 2009 4:14 PM To: wcwellbaum at cox.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR-6 rear suspension rattles Bill---This sound you hear sounds suspiciously like the one I heard when the shock mount (bolts) were loose where it fastens to the frame rail. It only has to be loose by a couple of flats to produce this rattle. My cure was to retighten, and add nyloc nuts to the already longer-than-stock bolts. This was about two years ago, and so far, so good. Another place would be anywhere a muffler or tail pipe comes close enough to find something to bang against. It's easier to check this by visiting a muffler shop (rack), where the car can rest "evenly". The shop can then push and pull on suspected parts. If you have a rear anti-roll bar, take a look at where it could be making contact with something when encountering a bump. Back to the tube shock installation for a moment...Be sure the rod has not collapsed to its minimum when the wheel goes into full bump. The bump rubber must make contact with the bump stop with at least 1/2 inch to spare before the shock rod runs out of travel. Otherwise it will try to pull the shock bracket from the frame rail. Best to make this evaluation with the road spring removed, so you can see things as they would be on the road. Dick