From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri May  1 10:33:50 2009
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 09:33:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Home again...
Message-ID: <799409.56069.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Yesterday morning, for no specific reason, I decided to phone my
parents to say hello.  They also live in Vermont, but are Florida
snowbirds in winter.  When there was no answer at the house, I went the
cellphone route.  Were they out on the golf course, at the beach, or standing
in line at the early bird?  Not exactly.  

Me:      Hey, where are you?
Them:  "We're driving home early, currently in Virginia. Should be back
tomorrow"
Me (out loud):  Great - can't wait to see you
Me (under my breath): 
Oh crap.

It's not that I didn't want to see mom and dad again, it's just that
Trevor the Triumph was still resting peacefully in the garage - their garage -
his usual winter storage place.  What is it with you parents that you don't
tell us where you are and what you're up to all the time - huh?  Isn't it in
the contract somewhere?  I could have left the car there for a while, but this
was my wake-up call to accept the fact although there's still skiing going
on here in Vermont, that spring and car season had indeed arrived.  

Hold all
calls - cancel all meetings.  Although it actually was 60 degrees and sunny,
a lot of rain was in the immediate forecast.  Now I don't shy away
from adverse weather - and have driven in the snow more than once (see earlier
posts) - I thought it might be bad karma to kick off the season by getting
very wet.  So, I made a quick call to my wife and within a couple of hours we
were doing the two-hour drive down to the house.

With the sky getting darker
by the minute, I uncovered the TR6, did a quick once-over, and checked the
fluifs - but that's all I had time for.  Didn't even charge the battery.  A
touch of the key (I love my gear-reduction starter) and vroom - I was off with
a big smile on my face.  Except for a call from my wife travelling behind, who
reminded me that I was speeding (never did recalibrate the speedo after
installing the 5-speed), I spent some quality alone-time listening to the
exhaust and doing my annual mental checklist of all things Triumph.  What to
fix or change, what shows and events to go to, etc.  I also realized that
Trevor and I were just beginning our 25th year of motoring together.  We got
home just as the sun was setting, with a few raindrops had hitting the
windshield.  A quick bath in the driveway, into the garage.  
      
Home
again...

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF18928 5-speed 

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Fri May  1 10:45:43 2009
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 10:45:43 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Home again...
In-Reply-To: <799409.56069.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D163595D09704B32B752219E702A1858@nmsu.edu>

Joe writes:

<snip> What is it with you parents that you don't
tell us where you are and what you're up to all the time - huh?  Isn't it in
the contract somewhere? <\snip>



Parents are inconsiderate that way, but spin it--

They are paying US back for our lack of consideration during our teenage
years (which, for me lasted until I was about 30, but that's a whole other
story....)

Kevin





L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA
New Mexico State University
505-646-2485

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May  1 12:23:35 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 11:23:35 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Payback from parents and nice TR drives.
In-Reply-To: <D163595D09704B32B752219E702A1858@nmsu.edu>
References: <799409.56069.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<D163595D09704B32B752219E702A1858@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575F12DB7D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	In my case, there is nothing for my folks to pay back.

	My parents turned into senile idiots by the time I turned 13. When I turned
21 I noticed that my parents had matured considerably and had become very
savvy. It's amazing how much more intelligent and reasonable they became in
just 8 years.

	To keep this on topic - Drove the TR6 into work today, even though my
insurance says that's a no-no. I arrived at work in an incredibly good mood,
having driven past many trees with fresh foliage and gorgeous blooms. Probably
need to check the tranny fluid and give the TR bath too...

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kevin McNelis
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 9:46 AM
To: 'Joe Merone'; 'Triumph List'; '6 Pack list'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Home again...

Joe writes:

<snip> What is it with you parents that you don't
tell us where you are and what you're up to all the time - huh?  Isn't it in
the contract somewhere? <\snip>



Parents are inconsiderate that way, but spin it--

They are paying US back for our lack of consideration during our teenage
years (which, for me lasted until I was about 30, but that's a whole other
story....)

Kevin


L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA
New Mexico State University
505-646-2485

From colinthom at shaw.ca  Fri May  1 14:16:36 2009
From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 13:16:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] tough getting into gear
Message-ID: <001101c9ca99$ba9936a0$2fcba3e0$@ca>

Hi Gang.my '75 with OD just started doing something alarming. While it
shifts well enough when I'm driving, it's tough to get it into gear when
it's been idling for a while in neutral. It got so bad at one intersection
that I shut it off, put it in gear and then started it again with the clutch
to the floor. Again, it shifted fine once it was moving. The tranny's got
11,000 miles on a full overhaul from the local Brit shop, whose work is
generally respected. I saw the parts list for the overhaul, and it was very
thorough. The second gear sincro didn't last much more than about 5000
miles, if memory serves me and getting into reverse has been a bit noisy for
a little while. Any ideas? Many thanks, Colin Thom

From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Fri May  1 14:36:00 2009
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Fri, 01 May 2009 13:36:00 -0700
Subject: [6pack] tough getting into gear
References: <001101c9ca99$ba9936a0$2fcba3e0$@ca>
Message-ID: <1E3E9A33DE9242AD8981133849AF088F@happycyajmv4pw>

Colin,

Chances are your clutch is not disengaging.  Check your hydraulic actuating 
system first.  If that's not the problem, then you may need to beef up the 
connection to the throwout bearing lever, something to do whit a pin which 
people on the list other than me have dealt with.   The hydraulic part is 
probably going to be fairly easy to deal with.  The throwout bearing 
mechanism would be much more work.


Gary
'73

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Colin Thom" <colinthom at shaw.ca>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 01, 2009 1:16 PM
Subject: [6pack] tough getting into gear


> Hi Gang.my '75 with OD just started doing something alarming. While it
> shifts well enough when I'm driving, it's tough to get it into gear when
> it's been idling for a while in neutral. It got so bad at one intersection
> that I shut it off, put it in gear and then started it again with the 
> clutch
> to the floor. Again, it shifted fine once it was moving. The tranny's got
> 11,000 miles on a full overhaul from the local Brit shop, whose work is
> generally respected. I saw the parts list for the overhaul, and it was 
> very
> thorough. The second gear sincro didn't last much more than about 5000
> miles, if memory serves me and getting into reverse has been a bit noisy 
> for
> a little while. Any ideas? Many thanks, Colin Thom
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as gary.fluke at verizon.net

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  1 16:21:35 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 18:21:35 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Payback from parents and nice TR drives.
Message-ID: <bed.3d46105c.372ccfef@aol.com>

Gee Kevin, you have Phd and CPA after your name instead of a prison
number.  I'll bet your parents aren't complaining a bit about your youth,
even if
it did last until 30!

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Join ChristianMingle.com. FREE! Meet Christian Singles in
your area. Start now!
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221673648x1201419171/aol?redir=http
://www.christianmingle.com/campaign.html%3Fcat%3Dadbuy%26
src%3Dplatforma%26adid%3Dfooter:050109%26newurl%3Dreg_path.html)

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Fri May  1 18:23:00 2009
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Fri, 1 May 2009 18:23:00 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Home again...
In-Reply-To: <D163595D09704B32B752219E702A1858@nmsu.edu>
References: <799409.56069.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<D163595D09704B32B752219E702A1858@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0905011723v9e6818dt13faabe947789eac@mail.gmail.com>

Kevin,

Are they paying you back, or simply applying what you taught them
during those years???
Good learners, I say !

Henri

On Fri, May 1, 2009 at 10:45 AM, Kevin McNelis <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu> wrote:
> Joe writes:
>
> <snip> What is it with you parents that you don't
> tell us where you are and what you're up to all the time - huh?  Isn't it
in
> the contract somewhere? <\snip>
>
>
>
> Parents are inconsiderate that way, but spin it--
>
> They are paying US back for our lack of consideration during our teenage
> years (which, for me lasted until I was about 30, but that's a whole other
> story....)
>
> Kevin
>
>
>
>
>
> L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA
> New Mexico State University
> 505-646-2485
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat May  2 05:29:32 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 12:29:32 +0100
Subject: [6pack] TTACD Website updates
Message-ID: <01DD9E52E9604C68BFD1DC05543F6487@Bevan>

Hi, Everyone

I'm going to be taking a few days off this coming week, so won't be at my keyboard to answer queries 
any of you may have about developments for Triumph Trans-America.
There have been some updates on the site that you may not have noticed.
1. The Stag.
Joe Pawlak and the Worshipful Company of Busted Knucklers at ISOA have worked truly wondrous things 
in bringing 'uncle jack' back into running order. Just LOOK at that paint finish!!!! At the time of 
writing, while we don't have the very latest pix of the car with the lights and grille fitted (with 
all the stuff that goes behind them) I'm sure you'll agree this car is amazing.
2. The Route page
Has been updated several times as news comes in from the Clubs about the plans they have for taking 
part in the event. For those of you in Florida and especially within easy reach of Daytona Beach, 
there are more comprehensive details about the START itself and what will be happening when things 
get underway on 27th June.
3. Media Coverage.
It's also worth mentioning that interest is building in the UK - even though the event won't be 
taking place there. Several UK clubs in Rotary International have also most generously pledged money 
for all THREE non-profits which I feel is not only very generous but most commendable as well, 
because many organisations and individuals only tend to support what's going on in the own 
backyards. There's also additional coverage from a substantial regional newspaper and the link to 
the article in question - published on 1st May, is already on the Home Page of the site.

In less than two months, we'll be on our way!

Cheers, Jonmac


Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Sat May  2 12:38:16 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 14:38:16 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Green hoses now black!
Message-ID: <cd8.4b1c3c09.372ded18@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
What's up with my repro green hoses that have turned black over the winter? 
 I have a combination of NOS and TRF hoses that I just installed last  
summer.  The repros that I replaced were alright. Now I have nice  green NOS and 
dirty, almost black looking repros. Anyone else have this  problem?
Darrell
**************Check all of your email inboxes from anywhere on the web.  
Try the new Email Toolbar now! 
(http://toolbar.aol.com/mail/download.html?ncid=txtlnkusdown00000027)

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Sat May  2 13:13:54 2009
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Sat, 2 May 2009 14:13:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Keith Bryson's triumphs
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB1A2265@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

Friends-


As most of you know, Keith Bryson tragically passed in an airplane
accident recently. He was engaged and his fiance, Brenda Weaver, has
asked me to help sell his collector cars.

He has the following vehicles-


1. 1968 TR 250- this car was initially restored by Dolly Larock and
Tanker Coughenour. Dolly works at TRF. Keith bought it in a restored
condition and then improved it to concours condition. This car won Best
of Show at 6Pack a few years ago. It is black with a black interior. It
could easily win again today in my opinion.

2. 1986 Jaguar XJ6- This car was Keith's since new. It has approximately
2,000 miles on it. It is BRG with a tan interior

3. 1973 Triumph Stag- This is a car Keith loved because it was
different. I really don't know much about Stags or this car
specifically. It is red, with a black interior and runs and drives well.


I traveled with Keith to many shows, hauling the TR 250 and Jaguar. We
will also list a trailer that he used to travel with these cars. I don't
know much about the trailer other than it is white, dual axles, nicely
appointed and purchased new from Trailer World here in Bowling Green,
KY. All three cars would be a fine compliment to any collection. They
should be with informed enthuasists, like their prior owner.

The cars and trailer will soon be posted on Ebay and I will give this
List notice when they are photographed and placed for sale.

All the best-



Steve Thornton
Bowling Green, KY

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Sun May  3 12:01:43 2009
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 14:01:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem - Update and Thanks
Message-ID: <e343023f0905031101t3765639amc80b39d7ec77d65e@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks to all who replied to my issue with the fuel starvation symptoms.
I've tested and ruled out most of the things each of you mentioned and I
will remain open minded as to the possibility that it may be the fuel pump.
I'm waiting for the gas tank to get near or below 1/4 tank to see if I can
recreate the "running out of fuel" symptom. As for now, the car runs
perfectly. I successfully blew compressed air from the charcoal  canister
side to the gas tank and the reverse as well. There are no constrictions
anywhere on the vent line. The charcoal canister has no restriction to
compressed air. The first time I tried to blow air from the engine
compartment canister line to the gas tank, THE REASON IT FELT BLOCKED WAS
BECAUSE I WAS TOO STUPID TO OPEN THE GAS CAP SO THE AIR COULD GO
SOMEWHERE!!!. Once I saw my error, the vent line tested out just fine, but I
had to include this stupid thing I did so everyone could laugh.  I remain
fairly certain that the fuel pump is fine. The diaphragm is in new condition
without wear or tears;  the internal valves are are not out of place and I
believe they are staked; there are not leaks; the spring is fine and the big
lever that's driven off the camshaft is working just fine. However, I'll
keep an open mind and see how the car behaves when I get down to less than
1/4 tank.

Thanks again for your responses and your help.

Bob Fabie
75 TR6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue May  5 13:46:22 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 19:46:22 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem - Update and Thanks
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV112104B05D0658DC24CACBF4690@phx.gbl>

Bob-- Further tests as to the fuel starvation issue would be to disconnect the fuel line (hose) where it goes into the fuel filter. Catch the fuel in a clean container, large enough to let a gallon or so come out. There should be a steady stream. Leave the fuel tank lid closed for this test. If fuel flows uninterrupted, move down stream for the next test.

The same test could be done after the filter and before the pump. It may not flow as fast, but should be enough to easy keep up with what an engine would use.

Same test after the pump. With the level of a half tank of gas, gravity should allow fuel to come out

Meanwhile, talk nice to ol' Whitey!

Dick



-----Original Message-----
From: robert fabie
Sent: Sunday, May 3, 2009 11:01 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem - Update and Thanks

Thanks to all who replied to my issue with the fuel starvation symptoms.
I've tested and ruled out most of the things each of you mentioned and I
will remain open minded as to the possibility that it may be the fuel pump.
I'm waiting for the gas tank to get near or below 1/4 tank to see if I can
recreate the "running out of fuel" symptom. As for now, the car runs
perfectly. I successfully blew compressed air from the charcoal  canister
side to the gas tank and the reverse as well. There are no constrictions
anywhere on the vent line. The charcoal canister has no restriction to
compressed air. The first time I tried to blow air from the engine
compartment canister line to the gas tank, THE REASON IT FELT BLOCKED WAS
BECAUSE I WAS TOO STUPID TO OPEN THE GAS CAP SO THE AIR COULD GO
SOMEWHERE!!!. Once I saw my error, the vent line tested out just fine, but I
had to include this stupid thing I did so everyone could laugh.  I remain
fairly certain that the fuel pump is fine. The diaphragm is in new condition
without wear or tears;  the internal valves are are not out of place and I
believe they are staked; there are not leaks; the spring is fine and the big
lever that's driven off the camshaft is working just fine. However, I'll
keep an open mind and see how the car behaves when I get down to less than
1/4 tank.

Thanks again for your responses and your help.

Bob Fabie
75 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue May  5 14:09:51 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 20:09:51 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Brake and Oil Warning Lights
Message-ID: <20090505200951.VKAZR.348836.root@hrndva-web10-z01>

Hey List;

Can someone take a look at the diagram in the lower right corner of page 102 of the Dan Master's TR6 "Electical Maintenance" book and help me out? I hate to use the word 'logic' when discussing Lucas handiwork but, what is the logic of having the brake failure switch activating both the oil warning lamp and the brake failure lamp? Does my '74 Six, in fact, even have a Brake Failure Switch (as shown on the wiring diagram also at the back of the book)? If so, where is it located? My brake warning light on the dash seems to always be on any time the key is on, though all systems seem to be operating properly. So, I am in the process of checking the hookups I've made and am having some trouble determining the cause of the problem, much less understanding the wiring diagram and switch location (?) in the circuit there... Needless to say, TRF has no listing for a "brake failure switch"....

Thanks for any help...

Dave

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue May  5 14:38:25 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 13:38:25 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem - Update and Thanks
In-Reply-To: <e343023f0905031101t3765639amc80b39d7ec77d65e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e343023f0905031101t3765639amc80b39d7ec77d65e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575FAB13BF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Bob:

	Good update.

	There is always the possibility that it was simply bad gas - with water or
dirt passing through the fuel system on a transitory basis.
	If nothing else, you can blame on the prince of darkness. I know that
occasionally I resort to that excuse when I can't figure out what happened
=;-)

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of robert fabie
Sent: Sunday, May 03, 2009 11:02 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem - Update and Thanks

Thanks to all who replied to my issue with the fuel starvation symptoms.
I've tested and ruled out most of the things each of you mentioned and I
will remain open minded as to the possibility that it may be the fuel pump.

<snip>

Thanks again for your responses and your help.

Bob Fabie
75 TR6

From jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com  Mon May  4 13:48:21 2009
From: jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com (James McArthur)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 12:48:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Seriously Sagging TR6
Message-ID: <923474.11377.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

    Hi folks! I recently posted an inquiry about the trailing arms on the TR6
and was rewarded with an overwhelming response. Many thanks! So, I have posted
a picture of the TR6 at http://img15.imageshack.us/img15/6691/tr6y.jpg. I hope
that you can enlarge the picture so you can observe the severity, at least in
my mind, of the lean in. The thing that bothers me is that the sag seems worse
at the driver's rear corner, and the fact that the gap between door and body
gets larger from bottom to top. Can the camber issue really have such a
profound effect on the body height, or is there another issue at work here? I
have every intention of measuring the body height as well as the camber, so I
will be able to supply you with these results.
    Another question: once I have obtained the camber measurements, how do I
apply them to the list of bracket configurations? Do I use the chart to find
the needed correction and then use this configuration to bring the rear back
into spec? Please forgive me if I seem to be a little dense here, but
something is just not clicking for me here. Senior moment, I guess. I will be
54 this October, but I seem to be having these 'blank' moments on occasion.
    Many thanks to all! Best......Jim McArthur/ 1974 TR6/ CF17672U
 
    Just an afterthought here: I remember the commission number easier than my
anniversary date. I know I'm asking for trouble by this admission! Is this a
senior moment or obsession, or what? I need help. but don't know who to ask!
LOL

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May  4 18:11:30 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 4 May 2009 20:11:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Grease
Message-ID: <200905042011.30493.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

Ready to install my diff in my freshly painted frame and am using the TSI poly 
bushings. Instructions say us silicone grease.

Well I give up, I have been to Advanced Auto, Wallymart, Lowes and Tractor 
supply and no go.

Anyone know where to get a tube of silicone grease? Plumbing supply?

Thanks,

Bob

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue May  5 15:00:41 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 14:00:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Brake and Oil Warning Lights
In-Reply-To: <20090505200951.VKAZR.348836.root@hrndva-web10-z01>
References: <20090505200951.VKAZR.348836.root@hrndva-web10-z01>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575FAB140F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Dave:

	The twisted logic works thus:

	The brake warning light must (by federal law) illuminate when the key is in
the run position, but the engine is not running. It must also extinguish when
the engine starts UNLESS there has been a brake failure.

	The twisted wiring you see there permitted the factory to meet this
requirement without adding another oil pressure switch or some other device to
ground the brake warning light. It also permits the oil pressure light to
function more or less normally using the same oil pressure switch as the brake
light.
	I defy you to meet the above requirement without adding an additional part to
car, while preserving the functionality of the oil pressure warning light. It
is not obvious to me as to how it can be done.
	Given that you are required to have a brake warning light (which requires a
light and a brake warning switch of some sort) and you wish to have an oil
pressure idiot light, it is actually very clever. It saved you $1.39 that it
would have cost to add another switched grounding point for the brake warning
circuit.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 1:10 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake and Oil Warning Lights

Hey List;

Can someone take a look at the diagram in the lower right corner of page 102
of the Dan Master's TR6 "Electical Maintenance" book and help me out? I hate
to use the word 'logic' when discussing Lucas handiwork but, what is the logic
of having the brake failure switch activating both the oil warning lamp and
the brake failure lamp?

<snip>

Thanks for any help...

Dave

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Tue May  5 18:41:44 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 17:41:44 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Brake and Oil Warning Lights
References: <20090505200951.VKAZR.348836.root@hrndva-web10-z01>
Message-ID: <005b01c9cde3$6ece64a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hi Dave,
They are using the oil pressure switch to check the brake failure lamp.
Turning on the ignition switch completes the circuit with 12volts through
the oil pressure lamp and brake lamp to ground coming from the oil pressure
switch. When the engine starts and you have oil pressure the switch opens
and the lamps should go out. If the brake failure lamp stays on and the oil
pressure lamp goes out the circuit is still getting ground probably from the
(PDWA) brake failure switch. If that's the case popping that wire off should
turn off the light. Maybe.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dave" <forzion at maine.rr.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 1:09 PM
Subject: [6pack] Brake and Oil Warning Lights


> Hey List;
>
> Can someone take a look at the diagram in the lower right corner of page
102 of the Dan Master's TR6 "Electical Maintenance" book and help me out? I
hate to use the word 'logic' when discussing Lucas handiwork but, what is
the logic of having the brake failure switch activating both the oil warning
lamp and the brake failure lamp? Does my '74 Six, in fact, even have a Brake
Failure Switch (as shown on the wiring diagram also at the back of the
book)? If so, where is it located? My brake warning light on the dash seems
to always be on any time the key is on, though all systems seem to be
operating properly. So, I am in the process of checking the hookups I've
made and am having some trouble determining the cause of the problem, much
less understanding the wiring diagram and switch location (?) in the circuit
there... Needless to say, TRF has no listing for a "brake failure
switch"....
>
> Thanks for any help...
>
> Dave
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
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From DLylis at aol.com  Tue May  5 16:46:15 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 18:46:15 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Grease
Message-ID: <d54.4e3f9162.37321bb7@aol.com>

Try West Marine or similar
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue May  5 18:04:15 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 20:04:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Grease
In-Reply-To: <200905042011.30493.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200905042011.30493.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <200905052004.15854.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

List,

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Believe it or not I did a web search today and yes marine supply shops stock 
it as well as pool supply places and even plumbing supply.

I located a 3oz tin at a local plumbing supply but it was his last one.

So I went on Ebay and did a search and located some at marine supply places 
and put a bid on a 5 oz tube.

Should be enough for all the bushings I hope.

Bob

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Sun May  3 10:46:49 2009
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 12:46:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Trailer Transport ideas
Message-ID: <a436b5f40905030946t6a944228j72dc9fac7786d06@mail.gmail.com>

Any one have a good idea of how to get a car trailer from Chicago area to
somewhere closer to Washington DC?

(Other than driving out there to get it myself)


Thanks in advance.
Scott

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Tue May  5 18:53:27 2009
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 20:53:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Grease
In-Reply-To: <200905052004.15854.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200905042011.30493.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<200905052004.15854.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4A00DF87.9080705@suscom-maine.net>

Try NAPA Sil-Glyde part number BK 765-1351 in a 4oz tube.

http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/215803.jpg

Rick Patton
pattonmachine.com
75 TR6sci
74 TVR 2500M

From gvgreen at nbnet.nb.ca  Tue May  5 19:48:58 2009
From: gvgreen at nbnet.nb.ca (Gordon Green)
Date: Tue, 05 May 2009 22:48:58 -0300
Subject: [6pack] venting problem
In-Reply-To: <mailman.188.1241568261.14231.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.188.1241568261.14231.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4A00EC8A.70302@nbnet.nb.ca>

Your problem reminds me of one that plagued me for a couple years - when 
the car got hot, especially in city traffic, it would starve of fuel and 
quit. I live in a very rural area of New Brunswick, so I don't often get 
into the city at all, but then I started having problems after driving 
5-10 miles. I played with heat shields without much success, so finally 
put an electric fuel pump in the car and that seems to have cured the 
problem. I was getting a bit tired of getting stranded and having to be 
towed home!
Last night I went to a meeting and took the TR6 since the weather was 
nice. When I went to leave, the car started and immediately died. It 
would not refire, and I didn't have my tools with me, so I had to catch 
a ride home. I thought it was fuel again but went back and fuel was not 
an issue. Since it was dark, I left the car until tonight, but I was not 
happy!
Tonight I went back and since I had time to think it over, I decided it 
had to be a catastrophic failure of something to quit so immediately. I 
took a bunch of old ignition parts, pulled the distributor cap and found 
that everything was in order - points OK, rotor OK, everything turning 
and operating properly. I took off the nice looking coil and put on the 
old grungy Lucas coil that I had replaced a couple years ago and the car 
started immediately.
I have to blame myself for this one - I haven't driven the Triumph much 
in the last couple years, and I haven't given it a proper tune up 
lately! I'll be getting some parts and looking after this on the weekend!

Gordon in New Brunswick, Canada

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Tue May  5 21:47:30 2009
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Tue, 5 May 2009 21:47:30 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Grease
In-Reply-To: <4A00DF87.9080705@suscom-maine.net>
References: <200905042011.30493.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<200905052004.15854.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<4A00DF87.9080705@suscom-maine.net>
Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0905052047h7f78182n9a7f1c8be0ace79f@mail.gmail.com>

Second vote for Sil-Glyde. Stuff works well!

Shawn

On Tue, May 5, 2009 at 6:53 PM, Rick Patton <patton at suscom-maine.net> wrote:
> Try NAPA Sil-Glyde part number BK 765-1351 in a 4oz tube.
>
> http://partimages.genpt.com/partimages/215803.jpg
>
> Rick Patton
> pattonmachine.com
> 75 TR6sci
> 74 TVR 2500M
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed May  6 06:47:48 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 8:47:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake and Oil Warning Lights
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575FAB140F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <20090506124748.ZDA9Z.358589.root@hrndva-web11-z02>

Many thanks to all who responded! I will be checking the PDWA piston centering and re-try the circuit. It's 'funny' how, sometimes, wiring diagrams show items to be side-by-side in the circuit but may actually be quite remote from each other.

Thanks again, all, for the assist...

Cheers!

Dave
'74 Six w/A-OD and TBI
 
---- "Navarrette wrote: 
>  	Dave:
> 
> 	The twisted logic works thus:
> 
> 	The brake warning light must (by federal law) illuminate when the key is in the run position, but the engine is not running. It must also extinguish when the engine starts UNLESS there has been a brake failure.
> 
> 	The twisted wiring you see there permitted the factory to meet this requirement without adding another oil pressure switch or some other device to ground the brake warning light. It also permits the oil pressure light to function more or less normally using the same oil pressure switch as the brake light.
> 	I defy you to meet the above requirement without adding an additional part to car, while preserving the functionality of the oil pressure warning light. It is not obvious to me as to how it can be done. 
> 	Given that you are required to have a brake warning light (which requires a light and a brake warning switch of some sort) and you wish to have an oil pressure idiot light, it is actually very clever. It saved you $1.39 that it would have cost to add another switched grounding point for the brake warning circuit.
> 
> 	Vance
> 	
>     Vance Navarrette
>     Cogito Ergo Zoom
>     I think, therefore I go fast
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave
> Sent: Tuesday, May 05, 2009 1:10 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Brake and Oil Warning Lights
> 
> Hey List;
> 
> Can someone take a look at the diagram in the lower right corner of page 102 of the Dan Master's TR6 "Electical Maintenance" book and help me out? I hate to use the word 'logic' when discussing Lucas handiwork but, what is the logic of having the brake failure switch activating both the oil warning lamp and the brake failure lamp? 
> 
> <snip>
> 
> Thanks for any help...
> 
> Dave

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  6 11:20:05 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 6 May 2009 12:20:05 -0500
Subject: [6pack] need a contact in santa fe
References: <20090220083803.AUWYH.1606249.root@ispmxfep14-z01>
Message-ID: <000c01c9ce6e$e7a4ee40$84a7a8c0@ranteer.local>

are there any listers in santa fe?

please contact me off list  sumton at sbcglobal.net

thanks

From Timbo00001 at aol.com  Thu May  7 07:17:05 2009
From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 09:17:05 EDT
Subject: [6pack] ebay item: Fan/Clock
Message-ID: <c9e.4e23ee9e.37343951@aol.com>

Was looking through ebay and saw this:160333429390.  Someone made a  fan 
out of a damaged 13 blade fan.

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Thu May  7 08:18:30 2009
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 07:18:30 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Wood Steering Wheel
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171112@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

I'm having a minor case of shipwright's disease as I'm refurbishing my
interior.  I am thinking about replacing my stock TR6 steering wheel
with a wood.  For those of you that have purchased aftermarket wood
wheels, what brands (Moto Lita, Nardi, Mountney, etc) and models did you
select?  Did you go with flat or dished?   I'm not very big so needing
more room is not an issue.  Did you have any problems with how they fit
or difficulty installing them?  Are you satisfied with what you have?
Has it held up well?  Any information you could share would be
appreciated.  Pictures would be great too.



Mike

Corvallis, OR

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu May  7 10:39:16 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 16:39:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Wood Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171112@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171112@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF647597D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Mike, I tried the Moss supplied Tourist Trophy wooden steering wheels, both
the thin one and the thicker one. They fitted great and looked nice and other
than a different design for the horn push they presented no installation
issues. I still have these steering wheels gathering dust in the basement,
removed because at 14 inches they were just too big for my taste and I
replaced them with a 13 inch Mountney vinyl wheel which I really like. If
money was no object I would get a 13 inch Moto Lita leather job as they are
just better finished than the Mountney wheels but cost 2 or 3 times as much (I
paid around $70 for the Mountney wheel and hub).

With Nylatron all round, stiffer springs, adjustable shocks, GP front and rear
sway bars, modified engine and the 13 inch steering wheel it drives like a go
kart, lots of fun..

Stan
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 10:19 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Wood Steering Wheel

I'm having a minor case of shipwright's disease as I'm refurbishing my
interior.  I am thinking about replacing my stock TR6 steering wheel
with a wood.  For those of you that have purchased aftermarket wood
wheels, what brands (Moto Lita, Nardi, Mountney, etc) and models did you
select?  Did you go with flat or dished?   I'm not very big so needing
more room is not an issue.  Did you have any problems with how they fit
or difficulty installing them?  Are you satisfied with what you have?
Has it held up well?  Any information you could share would be
appreciated.  Pictures would be great too.



Mike

Corvallis, OR

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu May  7 11:12:58 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 17:12:58 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Seriously Sagging TR6
In-Reply-To: <923474.11377.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <923474.11377.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF647599D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

<snip>
    Just an afterthought here: I remember the commission number easier than
my
anniversary date. I know I'm asking for trouble by this admission! Is this a
senior moment or obsession, or what? I need help. but don't know who to ask!
LOL
</snip>

We recently went to the local office of our insurance company to update the
policy that covers the TR6. The agent behind the desk asked for the TR
commission number and while my wife was digging in her handbag for the
registration docs I blurted out CF29045U. They both looked at me like I was
mental.

Stan

From ajw at golden.net  Thu May  7 16:28:32 2009
From: ajw at golden.net (john weir)
Date: Thu, 7 May 2009 18:28:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Seriously Sagging TR6
References: <923474.11377.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF647599D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <3A6DEED0A4554DE7972BD38E8A8D8D71@weir>

Well Stan. I too have sagging parts and on the TR6 but the commission number 
is engrained in my head for some crazy reason. Now, if I could only remember 
my cell phone number...BTW, where is that darn thing?
John

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: "James McArthur" <jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 07, 2009 1:12 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Seriously Sagging TR6


> <snip>
>    Just an afterthought here: I remember the commission number easier than
> my
> anniversary date. I know I'm asking for trouble by this admission! Is this 
> a
> senior moment or obsession, or what? I need help. but don't know who to 
> ask!
> LOL
> </snip>
>
> We recently went to the local office of our insurance company to update 
> the
> policy that covers the TR6. The agent behind the desk asked for the TR
> commission number and while my wife was digging in her handbag for the
> registration docs I blurted out CF29045U. They both looked at me like I 
> was
> mental.
>
> Stan
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as ajw at golden.net


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
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05:57:00

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Fri May  8 09:12:45 2009
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 15:12:45 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>

  I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my TR6.  All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out  until next week.  Any other ideas where to look?  Thanks.
Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH  

From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri May  8 09:23:08 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 10:23:08 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <354a1780905080823g7bc5f96eh572d4165f095e5ad@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 8, 2009 at 10:12 AM, <dctr6 at optonline.net> wrote:

>  I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road
> Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my
> TR6.  All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car
> starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over
> 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in
> Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the
> hill and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any
> faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found
> nothing. My only theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn
> diaphragm in one carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it
> out  until next week.  Any other ideas where to look?  Thanks.



Something similar happened to a friend on the way to VTR in PA. He had
checked out the car before the trip, including checking the timing. But, he
forgot to re-tighten the distributor clamp bolt, and the timing adjusted
itself on the fly. The further we drove, the harder it was for his car to
climb. Until we found the problem. Hope yours is something simple like this.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri May  8 09:26:29 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 08:26:29 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <a06240804c629ff3a1e80@[192.168.2.2]>

Fuel starvation, when this happened to me, there was a pinched fuel 
line to blame.  Ran great at low RPMs, put on a load and it would 
actually stall.  You might check anything that could affect fuel 
pressure ...

Good Luck
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
1957 TR3
"Casper"
TS16765L
Wallace, CA

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri May  8 09:27:19 2009
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 15:27:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W189D9C69166F9C7B8B1E18E640@phx.gbl>

Dennis,

Sounds like fuel starvation to me, ie: it will run fine, but not at high RPMs.
Could be as simple as a fuel filter, but I had the same problem and it was the
fuel pump.



good luck,

Sloane :)


>
> I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road
Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my
TR6. All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home. The car starts
and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. It
just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a real
chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would barely be
doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I checked for the
obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only theory so
far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one carb?) but I
can't get the car into the shop to check it out until next week. Any other
ideas where to look? Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage1_052009

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May  8 09:39:47 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 11:39:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <20090508153947.1R46J.382176.root@hrndva-web15-z02>

Dennis;

Possibly a clogged fuel filter starving the carbs?

Dave
'74-Six

---- dctr6 at optonline.net wrote: 
>   I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my TR6.  All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out  until next week.  Any other ideas where to look?  Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH  
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May  8 10:06:35 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 09:06:35 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <20090508153947.1R46J.382176.root@hrndva-web15-z02>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
	<20090508153947.1R46J.382176.root@hrndva-web15-z02>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575FD516D5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Dave:

	I thought about this one - but I reasoned that the engine would likely break
up (start running ratty - missing, etc) as the mixture leaned out. Dennis'
note implied it ran fine, it just wouldn't rev any higher.
	Let me state for the record, I have no experience with a restricted fuel
filter, so I am just saying that based on intuition. Does the car in fact
simply refuse to go any faster, with no other symptoms? Inquiring minds want
to know.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dave
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 8:40 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; dctr6 at optonline.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted

Dennis;

Possibly a clogged fuel filter starving the carbs?

Dave
'74-Six

---- dctr6 at optonline.net wrote:

<snip>

The car starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run
over 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in
Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill
and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster.

<snip>

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May  8 10:11:39 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 09:11:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575FD516E0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Dennis:

	1. Clogged air filters
	2. Throttle linkage loose on one carb - car runs on one carb only.
	3. Vacuum retard engaged or stuck all the time (If you have it hooked up)
	4. Mechanical timing advance linkage binding in the distributor - no timing
advance at high RPMs.
	5. Clogged exhaust system (Muffler collapsed internally, exhaust pipe(s)
deeply dented or kinked)
	6. Cam timing wrong (timing chain jumped a tooth or two)
	7. Cam lobe failure - one or more lobes have gone flat
	8. Head gasket blown (often, but not always, accompanied by overheating).
	9. Ignition timing massively retarded (dizzy is loose = slipped timing).

	Etc....

	Others have suggested fuel starvation perhaps from a clogged filter, but I
would expect the engine to display other symptoms like missing, etc, if the
mixture was going lean due to a clogged fuel filter. That is just an opinion
on my part however as I have never experience that particular problem.

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dctr6 at optonline.net
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 8:13 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted

<snip>
The car starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run
over 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in
Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill
and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster.

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri May  8 12:02:20 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 18:02:20 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV10A97D484FFDDAF19BF621F4640@phx.gbl>

DCTR6---Where to begin? Air, fuel, spark or compression? One or more of these, to be sure. As always, I'd check the easy ones fiirst.
 Open the dist. cap to see if the point gap has closed up. (This can happen more easily when changing to new points, as the nylon rubbing block wears off a high spot) A closing gap will retard the timing.
A check with a timing light can confirm the loss of advance.

A partially clogged fuel filter (or any other drop in fuel volume) can cause the same loss of power at elevated rpm. 

Do a run without the air filters, if these are suspect.

Lastly, if nothing shows up, do a compression test. If one or more cylinders is down in pressure, then do a leak-down test to get more info as to engine area.

Let us know what you find!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: dctr6 at optonline.net
Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 8:12 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted

  I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at Road Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in my TR6.  All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out  until next week.  Any other ideas where to look?  Thanks.
Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH  
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Fri May  8 12:23:41 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 14:23:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
References: <BAY101-DAV10A97D484FFDDAF19BF621F4640@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <A2D6D9028119496A80107A622A8AFB7D@hp>

The choke not opening all the way will make the engine act just like it's 
being choked...  Bob

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Fri May  8 13:35:27 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 15:35:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR6] Re: Ignition light / dumb question / fails to
	start
References: <gu1hku+p0sl@eGroups.com>
	<104510.71517.qm@web59915.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <96A602E78F3F412491AC9C2F54D1FEBC@hp>

On my 1970's Ford it would do the not crank when hot... I cleaned the 
connections to the starter motor and never had the problem again on the 
car..Had same problem with Ford van same fix  no more problems..  Had 
problem with Ford 86 pickup not cranking when raining out or after a very 
humid day  did same fix cleaned the starter connections..

Now with the boat it stops running after a hour or so. It will crank just 
fine but not start till you let it cool off or pour some gas into the 
carburetor and get it to run long enough for it to suck cool gas back into 
the carburetor..   I think it's vapor lock as I have been having this 
problem ever since we had to switch to 90/10 gas here in Michigan..  So this 
may/maynot be related to the TR-6 but it might help someone out.....Bob

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri May  8 14:40:10 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 16:40:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W451A70675D9A59AED94AADE1640@phx.gbl>
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
	<858792729.5536001241802448207.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W451A70675D9A59AED94AADE1640@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000701c9d01d$2e7af990$8b70ecb0$@net>

Boy guys are getting awfully picky...it's a Tr6 with 7 cylinders

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rich White
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 4:29 PM
To: TR owners List
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted

BobB wrote:

Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B Other than the addition of 3
more
spark plug wires of course.


I'm I missing something or wouldn't this make the TR3? a three cylinder or
the
TR6 a seven cylinder?


Rich White St. Joseph, IL USA
'63 TR3B TCF587L
That ain't a scrap pile, that is my car!
See it moves!




> Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 17:07:28 +0000
> From: kinderlehrer at comcast.net
> To: dctr6 at optonline.net
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
> Is the TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B Other than the addition of 3
more
> spark plug wires of course. I had similar symptoms in my TR3 recently
caused
> by the little spring clip on the top plate that keeps that keeps it flat
> against the bottom plate in the distributor breaking. Easy enough to check
-
> if the pointsB plate hasB a lot of wobble, that could be the problem.
>
> BobB B
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: dctr6 at optonline.net
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net
> Sent: Friday, May 8, 2009 8:12:45 AM GMT -08:00 US/Canada Pacific
> Subject: [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
>
> B B I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The Mitty at
Road
> Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip to the NC shore, all in
my
> TR6. B All went extremely well until about 100 miles from home. B The car
> starts and idles fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over
4000
> RPM. It just seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in
Pennsylvania
a
> real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would
> barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster. I
checked
> for the obvious (vacuum hoses disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My
only
> theory so far is a possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one
> carb?) but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out B until next
> week. B Any other ideas where to look? B Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPHB B
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as rlwhitetr3b at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

http://www.team.net/archive

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Fri May  8 14:50:31 2009
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 13:50:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Help Wanted
Message-ID: <514590.79927.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Dennis,
 
If you have a petronix or another non standard ignition you may want to check
that.  I had a similar problem with my old petronix setup.  Replaced it with
points and everything was fine.
 
Mike Lunsford

From bratt at sasktel.net  Fri May  8 14:53:55 2009
From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed)
Date: Fri, 08 May 2009 14:53:55 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
References: <e472e331fcf7.4a044bed@optonline.net>
	<858792729.5536001241802448207.JavaMail.root@sz0102a.emeryville.ca.mail.comcast.net>
	<BAY123-W451A70675D9A59AED94AADE1640@phx.gbl>
	<000701c9d01d$2e7af990$8b70ecb0$@net>
Message-ID: <000801c9d01f$1a17a2d0$04000100@willhuq4x0qsgd>

Craig:

> Boy guys are getting awfully picky...it's a Tr6 with 7 cylinders


Silly!!  The seventh spark plug goes in the exhaust pipe.

http://www.axdo.net/

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 Tr6

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 16:07:49 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:07:49 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <c50.4cf78f8e.37360735@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 12:06:58 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
vance.navarrette at intel.com writes:

I  thought about this one - but I reasoned that the engine would likely  
break
up (start running ratty - missing, etc) as the mixture leaned out.  Dennis'
note implied it ran fine, it just wouldn't rev any  higher.
Let me state for the record, I have no experience  with a restricted fuel
filter, so I am just saying that based on intuition.  


I will say for the record that I have had the experience that Vance  
decribes and he is right.  It breaks up badly.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 16:09:32 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:09:32 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <d14.48cfdac4.3736079c@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 1:08:25 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
kinderlehrer at comcast.net writes:

Is the  TR6 distributor similar to the TR3?B  Other than the addition of 3  
more
spark plug wires of course.


My TR6 has only two more spark plug wires.  You must have a TR7!  (wink)
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 16:27:51 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:27:51 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <bd7.4ac5128c.37360be7@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/8/2009 11:17:10 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dctr6 at optonline.net writes:

All went  extremely well until about 100 miles from home.  The car starts 
and idles  fine, and runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. 
It just  seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania a 
real chore -  I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill and would 
barely be doing  55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go any faster.


You seem to be describing two things here.  If you are cranking  the motor 
at 4,000 rpm and going 80 mph at the bottom of the hill, but will be  going 
50 - 60 mph at the top, I assume that you are no longer cranking 4,000  rpm, 
but have dropped to 2,500 - 3,000.  When you crest the hill you can  then 
get back up to 4,000 rpm and go fast again.  Correct?
You are also describing that the car runs fine through all of this.   (I 
think)  When you say it "chokes" are you saying that it breaks down, or  no 
matter how much pedal you give it it slows to the top of the hill, but does  
so without sputtering or misfiring?
If it is the latter, rather than the former, the first thing I would do is  
remove the air cleaner box and have someone floor the throttle.  (Not  
running)  Do not do it with your hand under the bonnet (open the throttle,  that 
is).  Do it as if the car is being driven.  Look in the carb  throats and 
see if the throttle plate goes to a horizontal position.  My  guess is that 
although your foot is telling you you are at full throttle, your  carbs see 
this otherwise. 
I have had this happen with my 69 and did not discover the problem until  
someone stepped on the pedal while I looked.  Advancing the linkage  with my 
hand covered up the issue.
Good luck.   
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May  8 16:35:53 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 18:35:53 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 - Help Wanted
Message-ID: <ca2.4bc06e81.37360dc9@aol.com>

See my previous post about oil in which I referenced the hot girl in  
chemistry class.  She was in my math class, too.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221322931x1201367171/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=115&bcd
=May5509AvgfooterNO115)

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Fri May  8 18:08:42 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Fri, 8 May 2009 20:08:42 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Help Wanted
References: <514590.79927.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2F23E27F6E8E49C7BBAA1FF87CBA12C3@hp>

Hey Now that might just be what the problem is in the boat as it has a 
Petronix ignition.. Next time it acts up I'll stick the points back in 
here....  Thanks  Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 08, 2009 4:50 PM
Subject: [6pack] Help Wanted


Dennis,

If you have a petronix or another non standard ignition you may want to 
check
that.  I had a similar problem with my old petronix setup.  Replaced it with
points and everything was fine.

Mike Lunsford
_______________________________________________

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat May  9 21:00:30 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 09 May 2009 21:00:30 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009 - Stag Unveiling
	Event
Message-ID: <4A06434E.5020302@tscusa.org>

Triumph Trans America Charity Drive 2009 -  STTAG Stag Unveiling Event

On 31 May 2009, the STTAG (1973 Triumph Stag) that has been the subject 
of intense restoration over the past 14 months for the Triumph Trans 
America Charity Drive 2009 - that many of you have contributed toward 
the restoration will be rolled out in an unveiling ceremony in 
Burlington, Illinois hosted by the Illinois Sports Owners Association 
and the Triumph Stag Club USA. 
(see http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/).

This Unveiling is a limited by invitation only event due to the small 
size of the unveiling venue.

We would however, like to invite the British Car Media to document this 
historic, first of its kind event rollout.

As a reminder, the start of the drive begins at the HQ or Grass Roots 
Motorsports on the 27th of June in Holly Hill, Florida outside of 
Daytona Beach.  http://classicmotorsports.net/events/494/
The start of the drive and  is open to the public, bring your classic 
car and provide support for John Macartney and this national drive.  
Feel free to caravan along with John as long and as far as you want, 
however you need to make your own travel details.

If you are able to attend the unveiling event as a media reporter or 
know some Sports car media who can attend, please contact me by email 
below so we can plan for your presence.

Cheers!!

-- 
Glenn Merrell
TTA Drive North American Coordinator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
http://www.tscusa.org
mailto:Chairman at tscusa.org

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon May 11 05:57:38 2009
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 11:57:38 +0000
Subject: [6pack] gear reduction starter
Message-ID: <BLU120-W24294EC55509A9A0911BF88E630@phx.gbl>

team,

What exactly does it mean 'gear reduction starter'. What are the pros/cons and
recommend best deals?



thanks,

Sloane :)

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has ever-growing storage! Dont worry about storage limits.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Storage?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial
_Storage1_052009

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Tue May 12 12:13:34 2009
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 13:13:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] A/C Fan Motor
Message-ID: <7305609D104D4236AA3ED9CD5E66240D@stevekirsisPC>

Hey Gang, Is there anyone out there with any knowledge of the A/C on my '75
Six. My fan motor has quit working in the high position, just as the hot
weather moves into Texas. Works OK in low and med. Quit working in the hi
position suddenly. Thanks for any help. This was original installed A/C from
the dealer. Steve Kirsis.

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Tue May 12 05:15:37 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 04:15:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] ebay
Message-ID: <629633.67463.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

going to put the six on ebay does anyone know how much they charge or is it a % of the sale price

From jb_2email at yahoo.com  Mon May 11 13:32:53 2009
From: jb_2email at yahoo.com (J B)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 12:32:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Wood Steering Wheel
In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171112@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <971801.86255.qm@web57202.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

I purchased the Moto Lita (13 inch flat) for the TR6 and Nardi (14 inch flat)for the 260Z Convertible and 240Z. I like both and picked the Nardi for the Ferrari look in the Z and Moto for the traditional British look. They just feel right and look great. If I was racing I would go with a synthetic leather cover so my hands would not slip.

JohnB
Chicago
74 TR6
74 260Z Custom Convertible
70 240Z

--- On Thu, 5/7/09, Corbitt, Michael <Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu> wrote:

> From: Corbitt, Michael <Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu>
> Subject: [6pack] Wood Steering Wheel
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Thursday, May 7, 2009, 9:18 AM
> I'm having a minor case of shipwright's disease as
> I'm refurbishing my
> interior.  I am thinking about replacing my stock TR6
> steering wheel
> with a wood.  For those of you that have purchased
> aftermarket wood
> wheels, what brands (Moto Lita, Nardi, Mountney, etc) and
> models did you
> select?  Did you go with flat or dished?   I'm not very
> big so needing
> more room is not an issue.  Did you have any problems with
> how they fit
> or difficulty installing them?  Are you satisfied with what
> you have?
> Has it held up well?  Any information you could share would
> be
> appreciated.  Pictures would be great too.
> 
> 
> 
> Mike
> 
> Corvallis, OR
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as jb_2email at yahoo.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May 11 05:36:50 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 11 May 2009 07:36:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] FW: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car
Message-ID: <727D9FE070114F8983A701242FA364D7@BOBSNEWPC>

Per Tony's request, this is being forwarded to 6-Pack. It's the late Uncle
Jack's TR6 for sale.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



-----Original Message-----
From:  Tony Drews
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 7:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car

As part of handling my late father's estate, we are selling his lovingly
cared for 1971 Triumph TR-6.

Information here: http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/Uncle_Jack_TR6.htm

Could someone forward to the 6pack list?  I'm not on that one..

Thanks, Tony Drews
_______________________________________________

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue May 12 20:05:54 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 02:05:54 +0000
Subject: [6pack] gear reduction starter
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W24294EC55509A9A0911BF88E630@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU120-W24294EC55509A9A0911BF88E630@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF6C4BA72@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Hi Sloane, good question and a good description here

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Starter_motor

Gear-reduction starters

Chrysler Corporation contributed materially to the modern development of the
starter motor. In 1962, Chrysler introduced a starter incorporating a
geartrain between the motor and the driveshaft. Rolls Royce had introduced a
conceptually similar starter in 1946, but Chrysler's was the first
volume-production unit. The motor shaft has integrally-cut gear teeth forming
a drive gear which mesh with a larger adjacent driven gear to provide a gear
reduction ratio of 3.75:1. This permits the use of a higher-speed,
lower-current, lighter and more compact motor assembly while increasing
cranking torque.[1]. Variants of this starter design were used on most
vehicles produced by Chrysler Corporation from 1962 through 1987. The Chrysler
starter made a unique, readily identifiable sound when cranking the engine.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of im sloane
Sent: Monday, May 11, 2009 7:58 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] gear reduction starter

team,

What exactly does it mean 'gear reduction starter'. What are the pros/cons
and
recommend best deals?



thanks,

Sloane :)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May 12 20:16:22 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 12 May 2009 22:16:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <629633.67463.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <629633.67463.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2D4054B9771E478EA3DB195525DFA2B5@BOBSNEWPC>

I've never sold a car but everything else is a % of sale price. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of john doe
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 7:16 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] ebay

going to put the six on ebay does anyone know how much they charge or is it
a % of the sale price _______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sun May 10 17:15:36 2009
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sun, 10 May 2009 19:15:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fw: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car
Message-ID: <093B5B29D73740619B4C935C76551F37@D1TG6Y71>

Happy to help,

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Tony Drews" <tony at tonydrews.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 7:03 PM
Subject: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car


> As part of handling my late father's estate, we are selling his lovingly 
> cared for 1971 Triumph TR-6.
>
> Information here: http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/Uncle_Jack_TR6.htm
>
> Could someone forward to the 6pack list?  I'm not on that one..
>
> Thanks, Tony Drews

From GSFuqua1 at aol.com  Wed May 13 04:56:16 2009
From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 06:56:16 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car
Message-ID: <c5a.48009974.373c0150@aol.com>

uncle jack was a remarkable Triumph guy.  He had done some really  amazing 
work in the vintage racing area in particular with parts, etc.  He  did a 
lot of work on my TR 4 racer.  I can assure anyone that is interested  in this 
car it will have been VERY well taken care of and any  work done on it will 
have been of the highest quality.
 
Gary Fuqua
Classic Sports Cars
Branson, MO
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)

From jsantamaria at optusnet.com.au  Wed May 13 05:40:32 2009
From: jsantamaria at optusnet.com.au (Joe Santamaria)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:40:32 +1000
Subject: [6pack] Measuring valve lift
In-Reply-To: <2F23E27F6E8E49C7BBAA1FF87CBA12C3@hp>
References: <514590.79927.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<2F23E27F6E8E49C7BBAA1FF87CBA12C3@hp>
Message-ID: <7C5E4956D7AF4C0DBA8E4EB96814371D@IBMCD2DDD5C8BC>

Hi guys,

I am a regular member of the list for some years now and excuse me as I
don't have a TR6 but have five Saloons all with 2500 PI engines, one with a
TR6 cam, so I find all the content on engines on this list most helpful but
can't participate as much on the TR 6 per se. I'd love to have a TR6 but
unfortunately out of budget at this stage.

I do have a question though, on how to correctly measure valve lift with cam
and rockers in place.

I have tried to rest dial gauge tip on the actual rocker head on top of the
valve but clearly this point rotates through a wide arc and cannot get the
dial indicator tip end to sit on the rocker at this point anyway.

Do you instead rest the dial gauge tip on the screw adjuster and measure
from here assuming a certain rocker ratio or what is the correct method
given cam and rockers are in place.

I understand lift and duration on a TR6 engine is different to a Saloon PI
but this is just a relative measure I am after to compare between motors.

I'm trying to assess any wear in the camshaft without actually removing the
cam to do so.

Many thanks for any pointers on this and also pointers may be on measuring
duration and opening/closing angles.

Cheers

Joe.

2.5PI 1969 Mk1 Saloon Tr6 Cam Overdrive
2.5PI 1972 Mk2 Saloon Overdrive
2.5PI 1969 Mk1 Auto Saloon
2.5PI 1971 Mk2 Saloon Auto
Stag 1976 Auto
2500S Man Overdrive Saloon (SU HS6 Carbs)

From n197tr4 at cs.com  Wed May 13 05:41:35 2009
From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 07:41:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car
In-Reply-To: <727D9FE070114F8983A701242FA364D7@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <727D9FE070114F8983A701242FA364D7@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <8CBA1D6E79D558E-1198-209F@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>

6ERS,

'uncle jack's'?TR6?is a car very worthwhile to look at to see if it meets your expectations. Our travels together included PORTLAND, ME, SEBRING, FL, & TULSA, OK. Modestly priced, methinks.

BTW, there are a few Miata seat conversion kits left. These were designed by 'uncle jack' and manufactured by my son. Powder coated and includes instructions.? Tony has most of them, but I have one on the shelf.

Regards,

Joe Alexander

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 11 May 2009 6:36 am
Subject: [6pack] FW: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car



Per Tony's request, this is being forwarded to 6-Pack. It's the late Uncle
Jack's TR6 for sale.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



-----Original Message-----
From:  Tony Drews
Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 7:04 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car

As part of handling my late father's estate, we are selling his lovingly
cared for 1971 Triumph TR-6.

Information here: http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/Uncle_Jack_TR6.htm

Could someone forward to the 6pack list?  I'm not on that one..

Thanks, Tony Drews
_______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

________________________________________________________________________
Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Wed May 13 06:56:38 2009
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 07:56:38 -0500
Subject: [6pack] A/C Fan Motor
In-Reply-To: <7305609D104D4236AA3ED9CD5E66240D@stevekirsisPC>
References: <7305609D104D4236AA3ED9CD5E66240D@stevekirsisPC>
Message-ID: <C1F231B085654558BB951686A0FEC165@aitinc.local>

Steve,
Follow this link for information on dealer installed TR6 units.  On this 
page you will find a link with a wiring diagram that may be helpful.
http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/technical/tr6ac.htm

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Kirsis" <sakirsis at consolidated.net>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 12, 2009 1:13 PM
Subject: [6pack] A/C Fan Motor


> Hey Gang, Is there anyone out there with any knowledge of the A/C on my 
> '75
> Six. My fan motor has quit working in the high position, just as the hot
> weather moves into Texas. Works OK in low and med. Quit working in the hi
> position suddenly. Thanks for any help. This was original installed A/C 
> from
> the dealer. Steve Kirsis.
> _______________________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 13 09:04:55 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 11:04:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car
In-Reply-To: <8CBA1D6E79D558E-1198-209F@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>
References: <727D9FE070114F8983A701242FA364D7@BOBSNEWPC>
	<8CBA1D6E79D558E-1198-209F@mblk-d31.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <A38CC9F10FA64E25ADE40202DADE37DB@BOBSNEWPC>

Joe,
Did the car sell? The link Tony sent is no longer working.
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
 <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
 

  _____  

From: n197tr4 at cs.com [mailto:n197tr4 at cs.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 7:42 AM
To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car


6ERS,

'uncle jack's' TR6 is a car very worthwhile to look at to see if it meets
your expectations. Our travels together included PORTLAND, ME, SEBRING, FL,
& TULSA, OK. Modestly priced, methinks.

BTW, there are a few Miata seat conversion kits left. These were designed by
'uncle jack' and manufactured by my son. Powder coated and includes
instructions.  Tony has most of them, but I have one on the shelf.

Regards,

Joe Alexander

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Mon, 11 May 2009 6:36 am
Subject: [6pack] FW: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car


Per Tony's request, this is being forwarded to 6-Pack. It's the late Uncle

Jack's TR6 for sale.



Bob Danielson

1975 TR6 CF38503U

Running w/ Throttle Body Injection

Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 







-----Original Message-----

From:  Tony Drews

Sent: Sunday, May 10, 2009 7:04 PM

To: triumphs at autox.team.net

Subject: [TR] For sale: uncle jack's TR-6 street car



As part of handling my late father's estate, we are selling his lovingly

cared for 1971 Triumph TR-6.



Information here: http://www.tonydrews.com/UncleJackTR6/Uncle_Jack_TR6.htm



Could someone forward to the 6pack list?  I'm not on that one..



Thanks, Tony Drews

_______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



http://www.team.net/archive



You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com


  _____  

Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed May 13 10:19:58 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 09:19:58 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Measuring valve lift
In-Reply-To: <7C5E4956D7AF4C0DBA8E4EB96814371D@IBMCD2DDD5C8BC>
References: <514590.79927.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<2F23E27F6E8E49C7BBAA1FF87CBA12C3@hp>
	<7C5E4956D7AF4C0DBA8E4EB96814371D@IBMCD2DDD5C8BC>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576226C637@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Joe:

	There are many ways to do this, you need to find one that works for you. Here
are some ways that will work, depending on the motor, rocker arm size, etc.

	The problem with both the adjuster and the rocker tip is that the rocker
sweeps through an arc, and so getting an accurate measurement is a problem, as
you have discovered.

	To measure the lobe lift, loosen up the adjuster until you can push the
rocker out of the way, then put your dial indicator tip in the push rod cup.
It is important that the pushrod not touch the cylinder head at any point
during the measurement - otherwise the measurement will be inaccurate.

	To measure the valve lift leave the arm in place, and put the dial indicator
tip on the valve spring retainer (anywhere will do). You can compute the lobe
lift using this value, but it is less accurate by virtue of the relatively
wide tolerances on rocker arm ratio.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Santamaria
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 4:41 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Measuring valve lift

Hi guys,

I am a regular member of the list for some years now and excuse me as I
don't have a TR6 but have five Saloons all with 2500 PI engines, one with a
TR6 cam, so I find all the content on engines on this list most helpful but
can't participate as much on the TR 6 per se. I'd love to have a TR6 but
unfortunately out of budget at this stage.

I do have a question though, on how to correctly measure valve lift with cam
and rockers in place.

<snip>

Cheers

Joe.

From jsantamaria at optusnet.com.au  Wed May 13 10:57:41 2009
From: jsantamaria at optusnet.com.au (Joe Santamaria)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 02:57:41 +1000
Subject: [6pack] Measuring valve lift
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576226C637@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <514590.79927.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com><2F23E27F6E8E49C7BBAA1FF87CBA12C3@hp>
	<7C5E4956D7AF4C0DBA8E4EB96814371D@IBMCD2DDD5C8BC>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576226C637@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <AF9CA1F86AB54D75ABB58F5CC84336D9@IBMCD2DDD5C8BC>

Thanks very much Vance - also received some helpful responses off-list from
Bob Lang and Michael Porter - between all responses (that pretty much all
concur) I think I have plenty to go on so thanks to all once again.

Regards Joe.

-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] 
Sent: Thursday, 14 May 2009 2:20 AM
To: Joe Santamaria; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Measuring valve lift

 	Joe:

	There are many ways to do this, you need to find one that works for
you. Here are some ways that will work, depending on the motor, rocker arm
size, etc.

	The problem with both the adjuster and the rocker tip is that the
rocker sweeps through an arc, and so getting an accurate measurement is a
problem, as you have discovered.

	To measure the lobe lift, loosen up the adjuster until you can push
the rocker out of the way, then put your dial indicator tip in the push rod
cup. It is important that the pushrod not touch the cylinder head at any
point during the measurement - otherwise the measurement will be inaccurate.

	To measure the valve lift leave the arm in place, and put the dial
indicator tip on the valve spring retainer (anywhere will do). You can
compute the lobe lift using this value, but it is less accurate by virtue of
the relatively wide tolerances on rocker arm ratio.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Santamaria
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 4:41 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Measuring valve lift

Hi guys,

I am a regular member of the list for some years now and excuse me as I
don't have a TR6 but have five Saloons all with 2500 PI engines, one with a
TR6 cam, so I find all the content on engines on this list most helpful but
can't participate as much on the TR 6 per se. I'd love to have a TR6 but
unfortunately out of budget at this stage.

I do have a question though, on how to correctly measure valve lift with cam
and rockers in place.

<snip>

Cheers

Joe.

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed May 13 19:31:32 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 May 2009 21:31:32 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance
Message-ID: <cbe.3e83d500.373cce74@aol.com>

I find myself kerfluxed.  I am helping a friend sort out some running  
issues with a 70 TR6.  The car was running poorly and there appeared to be  some 
electrical gremlins, so we proceded to sort it out.  We first  established 
a baseline by determining TDC was in fact zero degrees on the damper  
markings and that the valves were properly positioned for an ignition  cycle.  We 
then set the crank for static timing and static timed the  distrbutor with a 
test light.  
Because of some electrical gremlins we had to run some external wiring  
(electric fuel pump) to make sure that all potential problems in the  harness 
were removed from the equation.  We then tried to start the  car.  No dice.  
Spark is present and fuel is present so the marriage  between the two 
(ignition timing) became suspect.  While cranking the car  over we rotated the 
distributor until the car fired and ran, tweaked the  distributor, and got it 
to idle just OK with good throttle response and  smooth run up to where we 
took it (3000 rpm).
I then put a timing light to it at about 1200 rpm and the timing  scale is 
completely off the charts.  The last number I can see is 24 and it  is about 
an inch advanced from the indicator.  My next task is to put  an advance 
timing light on it and see what the advance actually is, but I expect  it to 
be real high.  My first thoughts are that the mechanical advance in  the 
distributor is toast, but I have a few doubts about that as well.
This car is running points.  Please don't tell me to put electronics  in it 
as we took them out and put in fresh ignition parts to establish the base  
line. All ignition parts (except distributor body; mechanical advance,  
etc.) have been cross checked against alternate parts to make sure there are not 
 defective "new" parts in the equation. 
As I said, I find myself kerfluxed.  Comments?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)

From tom628 at verizon.net  Wed May 13 22:47:20 2009
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 00:47:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance
References: <cbe.3e83d500.373cce74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <D6F1536FB01F472AA53EF71B71BEEEFE@Toms>

David: My thinking may be a little fuzzier than usual tonite, but could you 
possibly have set the static timing one plug wire out of phase by accident?

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 9:31 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance


>I find myself kerfluxed.  I am helping a friend sort out some running
> issues with a 70 TR6.  The car was running poorly and there appeared to be 
> some
> electrical gremlins, so we proceded to sort it out.  We first  established
> a baseline by determining TDC was in fact zero degrees on the damper
> markings and that the valves were properly positioned for an ignition 
> cycle.  We
> then set the crank for static timing and static timed the  distrbutor with 
> a
> test light.
> Because of some electrical gremlins we had to run some external wiring
> (electric fuel pump) to make sure that all potential problems in the 
> harness
> were removed from the equation.  We then tried to start the  car.  No 
> dice.
> Spark is present and fuel is present so the marriage  between the two
> (ignition timing) became suspect.  While cranking the car  over we rotated 
> the
> distributor until the car fired and ran, tweaked the  distributor, and got 
> it
> to idle just OK with good throttle response and  smooth run up to where we
> took it (3000 rpm).
> I then put a timing light to it at about 1200 rpm and the timing  scale is
> completely off the charts.  The last number I can see is 24 and it  is 
> about
> an inch advanced from the indicator.  My next task is to put  an advance
> timing light on it and see what the advance actually is, but I expect  it 
> to
> be real high.  My first thoughts are that the mechanical advance in  the
> distributor is toast, but I have a few doubts about that as well.
> This car is running points.  Please don't tell me to put electronics  in 
> it
> as we took them out and put in fresh ignition parts to establish the base
> line. All ignition parts (except distributor body; mechanical advance,
> etc.) have been cross checked against alternate parts to make sure there 
> are not
> defective "new" parts in the equation.
> As I said, I find myself kerfluxed.  Comments?
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
> **************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after
> instant savings!
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221972443x1201442012/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819441%3B36680237%3Bi)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net 

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Thu May 14 05:52:01 2009
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 07:52:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance
In-Reply-To: <D6F1536FB01F472AA53EF71B71BEEEFE@Toms>
References: <cbe.3e83d500.373cce74@aol.com>
	<D6F1536FB01F472AA53EF71B71BEEEFE@Toms>
Message-ID: <4A0C05E1.8070100@roadrunner.com>

David,

You say that you did in fact check TDC on #1 with the plug out and 
verify that the balancer hasn't slipped?

Jim

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May 14 06:15:45 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 08:15:45 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance
Message-ID: <d11.4d959c01.373d6571@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 12:47:31 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
tom628 at verizon.net writes:

David:  My thinking may be a little fuzzier than usual tonite, but could 
you  
possibly have set the static timing one plug wire out of phase by  accident?



No, Thanks for your response.  The setup for static is done without  regard 
to the plug wire to the cylinder.  It is set at TDC to insure that  zero 
degrees on the scale is in fact TDC compression, and then the crank is set  to 
the indicator for static timing and then the distributor is set to points  
just open. Plug wires are marked and checked and were determined to be  
correct before the dynamic timing check.
Thanks 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi)

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May 14 06:19:37 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 08:19:37 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance
Message-ID: <c7c.4cd9ca79.373d6659@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/14/2009 7:52:20 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jimmble at roadrunner.com writes:

David,

You say that you did in fact check TDC on #1 with the  plug out and 
verify that the balancer hasn't  slipped?

Jim



That is correct.  Thanks.  All appears to be in order until  the motor 
runs.  I may be leaning more toward defective mechanical advance  than I was 
last night.  The dizzy may appear to be OK when the shaft is not  spinning, but 
not when it is.
Next step may be to swap out a "known to be good" dizzy.
Thanks
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Dell Mini Netbooks: Great deals starting at $299 after 
instant savings! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1222627952x1201458914/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B214819460%3B36680227%3Bi)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May 14 08:07:06 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 07:07:06 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance
In-Reply-To: <cbe.3e83d500.373cce74@aol.com>
References: <cbe.3e83d500.373cce74@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576226CC2E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	David:

	Is your vacuum retard connected? If so, set up all your timing with it
disconnected. And start the car with it disconnected.
	If you are not using the vacuum retard, then I would say it sounds like you
have lost one or both springs on your advance mechanism in the dizzy.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 6:32 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance

I find myself kerfluxed.  I am helping a friend sort out some running
issues with a 70 TR6.  The car was running poorly and there appeared to be
some
electrical gremlins, so we proceded to sort it out.  We first  established
a baseline by determining TDC was in fact zero degrees on the damper
markings and that the valves were properly positioned for an ignition  cycle.
We
then set the crank for static timing and static timed the  distrbutor with a
test light.

<snip>

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May 15 06:17:45 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 12:17:45 +0000
Subject: [6pack] DOT5 Leak at reservoir
Message-ID: <20090515121745.1U7WN.444424.root@hrndva-web27-z02>

Hody Gents!

I am puzzled as to how better seal the brake fluid reservoir from leaking fluid (from the rear compartment only) onto the brake MC. I have removed the reservoir and all is clean. The square-shouldered washers, used to seal between the reservoir and MC seem to be in good shape and were properly seated. The four screws holding the reservoir to the MC were in place had been snugged down well. Anything I can do to 'enhance' the sealing properties of those sealing rings? 

Thank God it's DOT 5!!

Dave
CF25194U+AO+TBI

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Fri May 15 06:39:29 2009
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 08:39:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DOT5 Leak at reservoir
In-Reply-To: <20090515121745.1U7WN.444424.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
References: <20090515121745.1U7WN.444424.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <4A0D6281.2010709@roadrunner.com>

Dave,
I have seen the plastic warp a bit to where the seals aren't compressed 
like they should be. I have ground a bit off the four mounting pads so 
the reservoir is pulled down a little tighter. May work for you.

Jim

 Dave wrote:
> Hody Gents!
>
> I am puzzled as to how better seal the brake fluid reservoir from leaking fluid (from the rear compartment only) onto the brake MC. I have removed the reservoir and all is clean. The square-shouldered washers, used to seal between the reservoir and MC seem to be in good shape and were properly seated. The four screws holding the reservoir to the MC were in place had been snugged down well. Anything I can do to 'enhance' the sealing properties of those sealing rings? 
>
> Thank God it's DOT 5!!
>
> Dave
> CF25194U+AO+TBI
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Fri May 15 07:53:17 2009
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 06:53:17 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Door Panel Adhesives
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171186@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

Not too long ago there was a brief discussion about the best way to
attach plastic sheathing between the door and interior door panel.  I
think non-hardening adhesives were mentioned.  Could those of you who
have used these adhesives chime in on what brand you thought worked
well?  Thanks.



Mike

Corvallis, OR

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May 15 09:17:58 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 11:17:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DOT5 Leak at reservoir
In-Reply-To: <4A0D6281.2010709@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <20090515151759.ZWTU7.446467.root@hrndva-web27-z02>

Thanks, Jim. It hadn't occurred to me to grind down the mounting 
pads some. I'll check that out. I had been thinking more of maybe
applying some sort of sealant to the rubber washers...

Dave


---- Jim Franks <jimmble at roadrunner.com> wrote: 
> Dave,
> I have seen the plastic warp a bit to where the seals aren't compressed 
> like they should be. I have ground a bit off the four mounting pads so 
> the reservoir is pulled down a little tighter. May work for you.
> 
> Jim
> 
>  Dave wrote:
> > Hody Gents!
> >
> > I am puzzled as to how better seal the brake fluid reservoir from leaking fluid (from the rear compartment only) onto the brake MC. I have removed the reservoir and all is clean. The square-shouldered washers, used to seal between the reservoir and MC seem to be in good shape and were properly seated. The four screws holding the reservoir to the MC were in place had been snugged down well. Anything I can do to 'enhance' the sealing properties of those sealing rings? 
> >
> > Thank God it's DOT 5!!
> >
> > Dave
> > CF25194U+AO+TBI
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com

From bcrouter at cicorp.sk.ca  Fri May 15 16:25:16 2009
From: bcrouter at cicorp.sk.ca (Crouter, Bruce CIC)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 16:25:16 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR6 timing advance
Message-ID: <9E3C7D5396FFDE4BADDBA18FA8BF7E40030D110BDF@vsr-exch07.cicorp.sk.ca>

I had a very similar experience and it turned out that the previous owner's
mechanic had hooked up the retard unit to the wrong vacuum hose, I assume
thinking it was an advance unit.  He compensated for the error by setting the
advance to a very high number.  I also know I can't do a static timing and
suspect it is because of the retard unit.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
------------------------------------

Message: 6

Date: Thu, 14 May 2009 07:07:06 -0700

From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>

Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 timing advance

To: "DLylis at aol.com" <DLylis at aol.com>, "6pack at autox.team.net"

      <6pack at autox.team.net>

Message-ID:

      <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576226CC2E at orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>



Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"



      David:



      Is your vacuum retard connected? If so, set up all your timing with it

disconnected. And start the car with it disconnected.

      If you are not using the vacuum retard, then I would say it sounds like
you

have lost one or both springs on your advance mechanism in the dizzy.



      Vance



    Vance Navarrette

    Cogito Ergo Zoom

    I think, therefore I go fast

From jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com  Fri May 15 17:03:02 2009
From: jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com (James McArthur)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 16:03:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 camber adjustment
Message-ID: <675474.25358.qm@web46005.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

 Good day to the list! I have arrived at the number of -3.90 for the camber on my TR6; that is both sides. Am I looking for the bracket combination that yields a +3.90 to install on the car? My logic train of thought suggests this; am I off base? I have read the article about adjusting rear end camber that Vance forwarded to me, but the application of the measuring results seem a little unclear to me. Someone set me on the right path. Thanks! Regards.......Jim McArthur/ CF17672U/ York, Pa.

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri May 15 17:15:29 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 19:15:29 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 camber adjustment
Message-ID: <c91.3f1a2653.373f5191@aol.com>

I studied the camber chart about five or six years ago and could not  for 
the life of me make it translate to reality when the wheels hit the  ground.  
I then studied what I wanted to achieve with the car on the  ground, made 
some notes and then crawled under the car on jack stands and held  brackets 
in place until I got a fair estimate of how to get there.  I only  had to 
raise and lower the car three times, making a bracket change each time,  until 
I got where I wanted to go.  I highly recommend the adjustable  brackets.  I 
stubbornly persevered to do it the 'old way' and in the end  felt a little 
foolish.  Buy the brackets.  It is true; mental health  is expensive.
 
I think the chart is meaningful in a perfect world but a 35 - 40 year old  
chassis is far from perfect.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy 
Steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221823239x1201398650/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=May
Excfooter51509NO62)

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May 15 18:00:03 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 15 May 2009 20:00:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DOT5 Leak at reservoir
In-Reply-To: <4A0D6281.2010709@roadrunner.com>
References: <20090515121745.1U7WN.444424.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
	<4A0D6281.2010709@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <4A0E0203.9060708@maine.rr.com>

Jim/List;

I have now inspected the underside of the brake fluid reservoir and you 
are right.
There aren't many critical surfaces on the reservoir molding except 
those that are
meant to mate to the face of each of the flat washers. And those ARE 
quite warped!
No wonder the rubber washers won't seal there!  I may have to go find my 
old brake
reservoir --  they don't seem to be making this new ones very well. Can 
I add some
kind of sealant to the rubber washers or would that dissolve in DOT 5?

Dave


Jim Franks wrote:

> Dave,
> I have seen the plastic warp a bit to where the seals aren't 
> compressed like they should be. I have ground a bit off the four 
> mounting pads so the reservoir is pulled down a little tighter. May 
> work for you.
>
> Jim
>
> Dave wrote:
>
>> Hody Gents!
>>
>> I am puzzled as to how better seal the brake fluid reservoir from 
>> leaking fluid (from the rear compartment only) onto the brake MC. I 
>> have removed the reservoir and all is clean. The square-shouldered 
>> washers, used to seal between the reservoir and MC seem to be in good 
>> shape and were properly seated. The four screws holding the reservoir 
>> to the MC were in place had been snugged down well. Anything I can do 
>> to 'enhance' the sealing properties of those sealing rings?
>> Thank God it's DOT 5!!
>>
>> Dave
>> CF25194U+AO+TBI
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com

From dctr6 at optonline.net  Sat May 16 07:27:29 2009
From: dctr6 at optonline.net (dctr6 at optonline.net)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 13:27:29 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted - The results
Message-ID: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>

Just to follow up, the problem was as originally diagnosed (diaphragms in carbs) but BOTH were bad, not just one. I'm not sure how it ran at all considering how torn up they were.  I will now carry carb diaphragms in my spares kit so if/when this happens again, I'll be ready.  Thanks for all the ideas/guesses/possibilities that you all offered.  
Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH 

----- Original Message -----
From: 
Date: Friday, May 8, 2009 11:12 am
Subject: TR6 - Help Wanted
To: 6pack at autox.team.net,triumphs at autox.team.net,

> I've just returned from a 2,630 mile Southern trip to The 
> Mitty at Road Atlanta, some touring around Charlotte and a trip 
> to the NC shore, all in my TR6. All went extremely well until 
> about 100 miles from home. The car starts and idles fine, and 
> runs in the low revs OK but will not run over 4000 RPM. It just 
> seems to choke - it made the long hills on I-81 in Pennsylvania 
> a real chore - I'd get going 75-80 mph at the bottom of the hill 
> and would barely be doing 55-60 at the top - it just wouldn't go 
> any faster. I checked for the obvious (vacuum hoses 
> disconnected, etc) but found nothing. My only theory so far is a 
> possible carb problem (possibly a torn diaphragm in one carb?) 
> but I can't get the car into the shop to check it out until 
> next week. Any other ideas where to look? Thanks.
> Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH 

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sat May 16 09:01:12 2009
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sat, 16 May 2009 11:01:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DOT5 Leak at reservoir
In-Reply-To: <4A0E0203.9060708@maine.rr.com>
References: <20090515121745.1U7WN.444424.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
	<4A0D6281.2010709@roadrunner.com> <4A0E0203.9060708@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4A0ED538.2030702@roadrunner.com>

Hmm, I've never tried a sealant. Like I said, I ground off the 4 pads a 
bit so the plastic pulled down farther on mine.

Jim

David Friedlander wrote:
> Jim/List;
>
> I have now inspected the underside of the brake fluid reservoir and 
> you are right.
> There aren't many critical surfaces on the reservoir molding except 
> those that are
> meant to mate to the face of each of the flat washers. And those ARE 
> quite warped!
> No wonder the rubber washers won't seal there!  I may have to go find 
> my old brake
> reservoir --  they don't seem to be making this new ones very well. 
> Can I add some
> kind of sealant to the rubber washers or would that dissolve in DOT 5?
>
> Dave
>
>
> Jim Franks wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>> I have seen the plastic warp a bit to where the seals aren't 
>> compressed like they should be. I have ground a bit off the four 
>> mounting pads so the reservoir is pulled down a little tighter. May 
>> work for you.
>>
>> Jim
>>
>> Dave wrote:
>>
>>> Hody Gents!
>>>
>>> I am puzzled as to how better seal the brake fluid reservoir from 
>>> leaking fluid (from the rear compartment only) onto the brake MC. I 
>>> have removed the reservoir and all is clean. The square-shouldered 
>>> washers, used to seal between the reservoir and MC seem to be in 
>>> good shape and were properly seated. The four screws holding the 
>>> reservoir to the MC were in place had been snugged down well. 
>>> Anything I can do to 'enhance' the sealing properties of those 
>>> sealing rings?
>>> Thank God it's DOT 5!!
>>>
>>> Dave
>>> CF25194U+AO+TBI
>>> _______________________________________________
>>>
>>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>>
>>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>>
>>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>>
>>> You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com

From jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com  Sun May 17 16:07:02 2009
From: jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com (James McArthur)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 15:07:02 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 camber adjustment
Message-ID: <68696.88998.qm@web46008.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

    Good Evening to all! Well, I appreciate all that responded to my inquiries regarding the TR6 camber adjustment, but I think that all has been for naught. I think that when the time comes, I will go with the adjustable trailing arm brackets; all that jackassing around with the bracket combinations doesn't sound like time well spent! Thanks again to all who chimed in!
    I spent a few hours getting the TR6 on stands and having a REALLY good look at the rear suspension. NOT good! The lower cruciform has bubbles in several areas and it has begun to actually tear along a couple of the strengthening dimples. The left trailing arm outrigger has some rust through in it, but the right may be okay. I cannot, at this point, say what is the condition of the upper cruciform. 
    Does anyone have any experience in the replacement of the cruciform and outriggers; particularly with the body in place? I realize that ideally a body off repair would be the way to go, but I would like to hear both sides of the argument. Thanks in advance! Regards.....Jim McArthur/ CF17672U? York, Pa.

From trglory at verizon.net  Sun May 17 18:55:15 2009
From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Sun, 17 May 2009 20:55:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 camber adjustment
In-Reply-To: <68696.88998.qm@web46008.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EE8067EA6A7C431DA75F6E78D10880FA@newbox>

Jim;

John Burkett at Triumph Works can do it without removing the body. He is
located near Altoona PA. Go to www.triumphworks.com

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James McArthur
Sent: Sunday, May 17, 2009 6:07 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 camber adjustment

    Good Evening to all! Well, I appreciate all that responded to my
inquiries regarding the TR6 camber adjustment, but I think that all has been
for naught. I think that when the time comes, I will go with the adjustable
trailing arm brackets; all that jackassing around with the bracket
combinations doesn't sound like time well spent! Thanks again to all who
chimed in!
    I spent a few hours getting the TR6 on stands and having a REALLY good
look at the rear suspension. NOT good! The lower cruciform has bubbles in
several areas and it has begun to actually tear along a couple of the
strengthening dimples. The left trailing arm outrigger has some rust through
in it, but the right may be okay. I cannot, at this point, say what is the
condition of the upper cruciform.
    Does anyone have any experience in the replacement of the cruciform and
outriggers; particularly with the body in place? I realize that ideally a
body off repair would be the way to go, but I would like to hear both sides
of the argument. Thanks in advance! Regards.....Jim McArthur/ CF17672U?
York, Pa.
_______________________________________________


[demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried
to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.]
No virus found in this outgoing message.
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17:05:00

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon May 18 09:09:33 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:09:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] engine tear down
Message-ID: <200905181109.33795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

List,

I just finished tearing down the 72 engine and I cant believe what little if 
any wear there is on the cylinders, pistons and all journals.

I cannot detect any wear at all. Very little carbon on the top of the pistons. 
Rings are still very sharp. Cylinder walls are nice and smooth with no ridge 
at the top.

I wont know for sure until the machine shop mikes it out but this engine seems 
like the OD reading of 43 K must be about right.

Although there is sludge on the bottom of the oil pan and the block had about 
1/8 to 1/4 inch of crud, the internals are very clean.

Thrust washers are still in place and show very little wear.

The only reason I questioned the mileage was due to the amount of rust on the 
rear b-post, fenders, and lower rear apron.

The car is a southern tier NY car though.

This engine is not 1 143K engine.

Bob

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 18 09:28:39 2009
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 08:28:39 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] engine tear down
In-Reply-To: <200905181109.33795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200905181109.33795.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <701296.47574.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Bob,

That's a nice surprise to find on an engine tear down instead of something like a crank that's been grinding into the block or something like that. Hooray for good surprises every now and then!

Did you tear down the engine to add go fast parts??

Kendall



________________________________
From: Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 8:09:33 AM
Subject: [6pack] engine tear down

List,

I just finished tearing down the 72 engine and I cant believe what little if 
any wear there is on the cylinders, pistons and all journals.

I cannot detect any wear at all. Very little carbon on the top of the pistons. 
Rings are still very sharp. Cylinder walls are nice and smooth with no ridge 
at the top.

I wont know for sure until the machine shop mikes it out but this engine seems 
like the OD reading of 43 K must be about right.

Although there is sludge on the bottom of the oil pan and the block had about 
1/8 to 1/4 inch of crud, the internals are very clean.

Thrust washers are still in place and show very little wear.

The only reason I questioned the mileage was due to the amount of rust on the 
rear b-post, fenders, and lower rear apron.

The car is a southern tier NY car though.

This engine is not 1 143K engine.

Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 18 10:06:49 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 09:06:49 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted - The results
In-Reply-To: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>
References: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576782EB2C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Dennis:

	I personally think that many of the claimed advantages of SU carbs fall in
the category of urban legend. But at least one advantage of SUs is undeniable:
You will never get a torn diaphragm. The drivers out there with SUs are
gloating right about now.

	Sticking with my Zeniths, 'til death do us part.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of dctr6 at optonline.net
Sent: Saturday, May 16, 2009 6:27 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted - The results

Just to follow up, the problem was as originally diagnosed (diaphragms in
carbs) but BOTH were bad, not just one. I'm not sure how it ran at all
considering how torn up they were.  I will now carry carb diaphragms in my
spares kit so if/when this happens again, I'll be ready.  Thanks for all the
ideas/guesses/possibilities that you all offered.
Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon May 18 11:37:36 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 11:37:36 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [stag] TTA Stag Status - May 17 - Exquisite!
Message-ID: <4A119CE0.3070906@tscusa.org>

Ladies and Gentlemen of the ISOA,

Exquisite!

A car, a Triumph Stag, starting over one year ago that went from fully 
assembled pile of rusted and dented parts, through complete nut and bolt 
disassembly, to individual part restoration, to full nut and bolt 
assembly concours restoration - all occurring right at my initial 
estimate of 66 weekends.

Yes, weekends!!

Astounding, absolutely astounding.

Not at all for my insignificant time estimate by any means, but simply 
astounded at the sheer drive, dedication and commitment of an 
outstanding group of Triumph enthusiasts to step forward for such a 
cause as this, giving up most all of their weekends over the past 14 
months to accomplish this quality restoration for a charitable cause.

This cause of course is to drive this wonderfully restored Triumph Stag 
across North America - 12,000 miles in about 3 months, promoting 
awareness for the infliction named - Post Traumatic Stress Disorder - 
PTSD, and promote action to provide diagnosis, aid and support to those 
afflicted both directly and indirectly from this syndrome.

The Stag Triumph Trans America (restoration) Group - STTAG- lead by Joe 
Pawlak of ISOA should be very proud of your accomplishments. Over the 
next 4 months, Illinois Sports Owners Association - ISOA name, acronym 
and members will become synonymous with the theme and goal of this 
charity drive, that of seeing a need, identifying the goal, and not only 
accomplishing the task, but going far beyond the call.

To you fine upstanding people (okay, so you don't get that too often), 
the ladies and gentlemen of the Illinois Sports Owners Association, I 
express my sincere thanks and appreciation for your labors. This is a 
great thing you have all accomplished, a really great thing.

And to all the fine people who contributed money toward accomplishing 
this end, my thanks to you also. This unselfish support from so many 
Triumph enthusiasts enabled us to purchase the Stag and begin this 
undertaking. If these generous people, including representatives of the 
12 host clubs supporting the drive can attend the informal unveiling the 
last weekend of May in Illinois, we would love to shake your hand in 
appreciation.

As a reminder, and for the Official kickoff of the Triumph Trans 
American Charity Drive 2009, John Macartney turns the key on this 
Charity Drive and engages the clutch at the Holly Hills Florida Office 
of Grass Roots MotorSports at 915 Ridgewood Avenueat the corner of 
Ridgewood Avenue (US-1) and 9th Street, two blocks south of LPGA Blvd, 
Saturday, 27 June, 2009.
see http://grassrootsmotorsports.com/events/open-house/
I have not been able to register for the event on the Grass Roots web 
site and it appears others cannot either, so just show up!

Now the tweaking of the STTAG begins for the next 4 weeks.

See you all in Florida!

Sincere Regards,

-- 
Glenn Merrell
North American Coordinator, TTA Charity Drive 2009
303-665-6040 voice
303-665-7820 fax
http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/
mailto:StagByTriumph at triumphstagclub.org

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Mon May 18 13:46:17 2009
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 14:46:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Looking for a TR6
Message-ID: <001e01c9d7f1$4f5328f0$edf97ad0$@biz>

Greetings,

 

A friend of mine in Chicago wants to purchase a TR6. He would like a solid,
reliable daily driver (hold your laughter, please), not a show car. His
preference would be to purchase one from someone in the Midwest, and he can
spend in the ballpark of $15,000. Does anyone have a lead on such a car? If
so, I'd appreciate an e-mail off-list. 

 

Thanks,

Brian J. Alwin

1972 TR6 CC79085

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 18 14:02:00 2009
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 18 May 2009 13:02:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Looking for a TR6
In-Reply-To: <001e01c9d7f1$4f5328f0$edf97ad0$@biz>
References: <001e01c9d7f1$4f5328f0$edf97ad0$@biz>
Message-ID: <426738.3164.qm@web82604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

$15k is plenty of budget to get a _real_ nice TR6 these days. The craigslist ads for TR6s in southern california have been bargain priced lately from my casual observations

Kendall
Camarillo, CA




________________________________
From: "brian at asmoothmove.biz" <brian at asmoothmove.biz>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 18, 2009 12:46:17 PM
Subject: [6pack] Looking for a TR6

Greetings,



A friend of mine in Chicago wants to purchase a TR6. He would like a solid,
reliable daily driver (hold your laughter, please), not a show car. His
preference would be to purchase one from someone in the Midwest, and he can
spend in the ballpark of $15,000. Does anyone have a lead on such a car? If
so, I'd appreciate an e-mail off-list. 



Thanks,

Brian J. Alwin

1972 TR6 CC79085
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue May 19 05:36:14 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 07:36:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help Wanted - The results
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576782EB2C@orsmsx501.amr.cor
	p.intel.com>
References: <e3109f4abefe.4a0ebf41@optonline.net>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576782EB2C@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <tPvd1b0045Bccag05PvdQS.@charter.net>

At 12:06 PM 5/18/2009, Navarrette, Vance wrote:
>
>         I personally think that many of the claimed advantages of 
> SU carbs fall in
>the category of urban legend. But at least one advantage of SUs is undeniable:
>You will never get a torn diaphragm.

Way back when dinosaurs roamed the earth, I had a Spitfire with a 
torn diaphragm.  Being ignorant in such matters, I just took some 
silicone and glued the tear shut.  Worked fine for several years, 
until I got rid of the car...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue May 19 08:56:24 2009
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 14:56:24 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Frame repair
Message-ID: <BLU120-W2510B5D97A0EAF2802994D8E5B0@phx.gbl>

Hey team,

I have a buddy with a Spit that is having his frame looked at. He has a hole
near the rear trailing arm, and I have the same problem, so will probably have
the same guy repair mine. This guy seems familiar with frame repairs, and he
suggest filling the frame with a expanding foam filler to prevent any moisture
from accumulating inside. Does anybody know anything good or bad about this
suggestion?



thanks,

Sloane :)

69-Six

_________________________________________________________________
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue May 19 09:03:12 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 09:03:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Oil Plug washer
Message-ID: <D9A32038-4A5A-4D27-A0AC-9360E0549E02@comcast.net>

List,

Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be between  
the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but can't seem to  
get it to stop leaking.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
levilevi at comcast.net

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue May 19 09:21:56 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:21:56 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Oil Plug washer
In-Reply-To: <D9A32038-4A5A-4D27-A0AC-9360E0549E02@comcast.net>
References: <D9A32038-4A5A-4D27-A0AC-9360E0549E02@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279576782F145@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Bud:

	The standard plug is a pipe thread, and is self sealing.

	It sounds like your magnetic plug is not of that type, and relies on a seal
between the head and the bung. Try a copper or perhaps nylon washer.
	FYI, on my car the leak was between the bung and the pan. It did not stop
leaking until I removed the pan and had the bung brazed. You should check this
as well while you are trying to fix the leak.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bud Rolofson
Sent: Tuesday, May 19, 2009 8:03 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Oil Plug washer

List,

Is there a particular type of washer that is supposed to be between
the oil pan and oil plug?  I have a magnetic plug but can't seem to
get it to stop leaking.


Bud Rolofson

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Wed May 20 11:40:50 2009
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 17:40:50 +0000
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Frame repair - Foam Filler?
In-Reply-To: <779293.87748.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <779293.87748.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W1570D3918549316C7317AA8E580@phx.gbl>

Anybody else? I wondered if this was a bad idea.



thanks for advice,

Sloane :)

69-Six



Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:48:37 -0700

Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame repair
To: im_sloane at hotmail.com





Hi.  DO NOT USE FOAM FILLER.  It WILL attract moisture and rust the entire
frame.  Cover the frame hole.  John

--- On Tue, 5/19/09, im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
Subject: [6pack] Frame repair
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 8:56 AM


Hey team,

I have a buddy with a Spit that is having his frame looked at. He has a hole
near the rear trailing arm, and I have the same problem, so will probably
have
the same guy repair mine. This guy seems familiar with frame repairs, and he
suggest filling the frame with a expanding foam filler to prevent any
moisture
from accumulating inside. Does anybody know anything good or bad about this
suggestion?


6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________________
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From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed May 20 11:44:35 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 13:44:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Frame repair - Foam Filler?
In-Reply-To: <BLU120-W1570D3918549316C7317AA8E580@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20090520174436.QPXIK.495862.root@hrndva-web15-z02>

Sloane;

I cannot speak for/against foam but it does seem to leave room 
for moisture to accumulate if the fill isn't complete. FWIW, I've 
used Waxoyl with a spray wand, with good results so far...

Dave
'74-Six

---- im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote: 
> Anybody else? I wondered if this was a bad idea.
> 
> 
> 
> thanks for advice,
> 
> Sloane :)
> 
> 69-Six
> 
> 
> 
> Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:48:37 -0700
> 
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame repair
> To: im_sloane at hotmail.com
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> Hi.  DO NOT USE FOAM FILLER.  It WILL attract moisture and rust the entire
> frame.  Cover the frame hole.  John
> 
> --- On Tue, 5/19/09, im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote:
> 
> 
> From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [6pack] Frame repair
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 8:56 AM
> 
> 
> Hey team,
> 
> I have a buddy with a Spit that is having his frame looked at. He has a hole
> near the rear trailing arm, and I have the same problem, so will probably
> have
> the same guy repair mine. This guy seems familiar with frame repairs, and he
> suggest filling the frame with a expanding foam filler to prevent any
> moisture
> from accumulating inside. Does anybody know anything good or bad about this
> suggestion?
> 
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com
> 
> 
> _________________________________________________________________
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail..
> http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
> l_QuickAdd1_052009
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed May 20 14:47:10 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 13:47:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Frame repair - Foam Filler?
References: <779293.87748.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<BLU120-W1570D3918549316C7317AA8E580@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <00b901c9d98c$25f3e700$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hi Slone,
If you buy a new frame from RATCO they have a foam fill option for $200.
It seems to be a good idea.
http://www.rat-co.com/Frpricelist.html
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 10:40 AM
Subject: [6pack] FW: Frame repair - Foam Filler?


> Anybody else? I wondered if this was a bad idea.
>
>
>
> thanks for advice,
>
> Sloane :)
>
> 69-Six
>
>
>
> Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:48:37 -0700
>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame repair
> To: im_sloane at hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi.  DO NOT USE FOAM FILLER.  It WILL attract moisture and rust the entire
> frame.  Cover the frame hole.  John
>
> --- On Tue, 5/19/09, im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [6pack] Frame repair
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 8:56 AM
>
>
> Hey team,
>
> I have a buddy with a Spit that is having his frame looked at. He has a
hole
> near the rear trailing arm, and I have the same problem, so will probably
> have
> the same guy repair mine. This guy seems familiar with frame repairs, and
he
> suggest filling the frame with a expanding foam filler to prevent any
> moisture
> from accumulating inside. Does anybody know anything good or bad about
this
> suggestion?
>
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com
>
>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail..
>
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/QuickAdd?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
> l_QuickAdd1_052009
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
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Database version: 6.12430
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From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Wed May 20 13:20:43 2009
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 12:20:43 -0700
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Frame repair - Foam Filler?
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DDDDB@MAIN.RSC.local>

I believe some polyurethane foams are moisture sensitive.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6

----- Original Message -----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wed May 20 10:40:50 2009
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Frame repair - Foam Filler?

Anybody else? I wondered if this was a bad idea.



thanks for advice,

Sloane :)

69-Six



Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:48:37 -0700

Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame repair
To: im_sloane at hotmail.com





Hi.  DO NOT USE FOAM FILLER.  It WILL attract moisture and rust the entire
frame.  Cover the frame hole.  John

--- On Tue, 5/19/09, im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote:


From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
Subject: [6pack] Frame repair
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 8:56 AM


Hey team,

I have a buddy with a Spit that is having his frame looked at. He has a hole
near the rear trailing arm, and I have the same problem, so will probably
have
the same guy repair mine. This guy seems familiar with frame repairs, and he
suggest filling the frame with a expanding foam filler to prevent any
moisture
from accumulating inside. Does anybody know anything good or bad about this
suggestion?


6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com


_________________________________________________________________
Insert movie times and more without leaving Hotmail..
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_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as rclark at robertsonclark.com

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Thu May 21 07:15:04 2009
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 06:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] the lists
Message-ID: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the Triumphs
list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, or
just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
John Summers'74 TR 6

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu May 21 07:24:48 2009
From: lfm614 at aol.com ( )
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 13:24:48 +0000
Subject: [6pack] the lists
Message-ID: <660688242-1242912433-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-126100276-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

No, I have noticed that too but thought it was me.  

A lot of times I get a reply but never got the question so maybe there are some technical issues. 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: John Summers
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: [6pack] the lists

Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the Triumphs
list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, or
just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
John Summers'74 TR 6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu May 21 07:45:38 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 13:45:38 +0000
Subject: [6pack] the lists
In-Reply-To: <660688242-1242912433-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-126100276-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <660688242-1242912433-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-126100276-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF6DBD5B1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

There are several reasons why we see replies but not the original, sometimes
because people respond out of band and sometimes because people copy one list
and the responder adds the 6-pack because they see that the topic would be of
interest or could use a wider discussion.

Re traffic, I think perhaps much of what we used to see where moved to the
6-pack forum which is very active and which doesn't have the size restrictions
and attachment limitations that the autox mailer imposes and supports embedded
images so all that is left here in ascii land is us dinosaurs.

If you haven't done so already I would encourage folks to sign up.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack//index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:25 AM
To: John Summers; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

No, I have noticed that too but thought it was me.

A lot of times I get a reply but never got the question so maybe there are
some technical issues.

Lou
------Original Message------
From: John Summers
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: [6pack] the lists

Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the Triumphs
list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, or
just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
John Summers'74 TR 6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu May 21 07:47:03 2009
From: lfm614 at aol.com ( )
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 13:47:03 +0000
Subject: [6pack] the lists
Message-ID: <561139226-1242913769-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1585865476-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Amen Stan!

On there all the time, pictures just make all the diff wheb you are trying to explain or figure something out. 

If you haven't signed up yet, you should, it's free 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT)
To: Lfmaol
To: John Summers
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: [6pack] the lists

There are several reasons why we see replies but not the original, sometimes because people respond out of band and sometimes because people copy one list and the responder adds the 6-pack because they see that the topic would be of interest or could use a wider discussion.

Re traffic, I think perhaps much of what we used to see where moved to the 6-pack forum which is very active and which doesn't have the size restrictions and attachment limitations that the autox mailer imposes and supports embedded images so all that is left here in ascii land is us dinosaurs.

If you haven't done so already I would encourage folks to sign up.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack//index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1

Stan 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:25 AM
To: John Summers; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

No, I have noticed that too but thought it was me.  

A lot of times I get a reply but never got the question so maybe there are some technical issues. 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: John Summers
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: [6pack] the lists

Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the Triumphs
list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, or
just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
John Summers'74 TR 6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

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You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Thu May 21 07:51:12 2009
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 08:51:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] the lists
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>

The spring weather here in north Texas (for example) has been very
nice lately so they're probably out enjoying their cars. I know I am.
Stuart Thompson '74 TR6


> Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the 
> Triumphs
> list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, 
> or
> just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
> John Summers'74 TR 6

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu May 21 07:53:45 2009
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 13:53:45 +0000
Subject: [6pack] the lists
In-Reply-To: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W2301506E97F736118BB33F8E590@phx.gbl>

I think its just people too "busy enjoying" their cars. Seems like we have
more discussions during winter project time.



YMMV,

Sloane :)

69-Six

> Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the
Triumphs
> list, or is traffic way down for the past few months? Is it the economy, or
> just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
> John Summers'74 TR 6
> _______________________________________________

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. goes with you.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/Mobile?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutorial_
Mobile1_052009

From Btp44 at aol.com  Thu May 21 09:30:57 2009
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 11:30:57 EDT
Subject: [6pack] the lists
Message-ID: <c2f.55249b2c.3746cdb1@aol.com>

Maybe the traffic is down because all TRs are running perfectly or all  
problems have been addressed in the archieves.
Berry Price
**************Huge savings on HDTVs from Dell.com! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221836042x1201399880/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.ne
t%2Fclk%3B215073686%3B37034322%3Bb)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu May 21 09:44:18 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 11:44:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] the lists
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF6DBD5B1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <660688242-1242912433-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-126100276-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF6DBD5B1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <6B989D28973D4F73BA0A6A00D9BB6285@BOBSNEWPC>

Mark told us a couple of weeks ago that he was having trouble with his ISP
blocking mail as spam and he was moving to another ISP which would help.
Since the move I've seen an increase in mail but nothing to the point of
where it was 5 years ago. So......I bet Stan hit the nail on the head that
the TR6 gang is focusing on the 6-Pack Forum and all models may be over in
BCF. I know that I spend too much time in the 6-Pack Forum for the past two
years. The biggest advantage is the ability to post pictures to show a
problem or explain a fix. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:46 AM
To: lfm614 at aol.com; John Summers; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

There are several reasons why we see replies but not the original, sometimes
because people respond out of band and sometimes because people copy one
list and the responder adds the 6-pack because they see that the topic would
be of interest or could use a wider discussion.

Re traffic, I think perhaps much of what we used to see where moved to the
6-pack forum which is very active and which doesn't have the size
restrictions and attachment limitations that the autox mailer imposes and
supports embedded images so all that is left here in ascii land is us
dinosaurs.

If you haven't done so already I would encourage folks to sign up.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack//index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:25 AM
To: John Summers; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

No, I have noticed that too but thought it was me.

A lot of times I get a reply but never got the question so maybe there are
some technical issues.

Lou
------Original Message------
From: John Summers
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: [6pack] the lists

Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the Triumphs
list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, or
just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
John Summers'74 TR 6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Thu May 21 11:10:17 2009
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 10:10:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Frame Repair - Foam Filler?
Message-ID: <549513.19657.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I spray RustChek into the frame, underside, doors etc. of my vehicles to
prevent rust.   Its a reddish tinged oily substance.   I buy it in spray cans
at Walmart.  A vehicle treated regularly is easier to work on as fasteners
aren't all seized.

It creeps along metal so no need to cover every inch with
spray.  Its been around since the 1970s.   There's also a dealer
applicator network in Canada, not sure about USA.

Bruce Simms
__________________________________________________________________
Get a sneak
peak at messages with a handy reading pane with All new Yahoo! Mail:
http://ca.promos.yahoo.com/newmail/overview2/

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Thu May 21 12:34:15 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 14:34:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] the lists
In-Reply-To: <561139226-1242913769-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1585865476-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <561139226-1242913769-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1585865476-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <005401c9da42$be816ea0$3b844be0$@net>

I get so lost when I go there. One or two clicks would make me happy. 
It just take too much time to get, where I want to go  
I'm a manufactures Rep. an my engineers say if it takes more than two clicks
it's a waste of time

Craig

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of 
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:47 AM
To: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

Amen Stan!

On there all the time, pictures just make all the diff wheb you are trying
to explain or figure something out. 

If you haven't signed up yet, you should, it's free 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT)
To: Lfmaol
To: John Summers
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:45 AM
Subject: RE: [6pack] the lists

There are several reasons why we see replies but not the original, sometimes
because people respond out of band and sometimes because people copy one
list and the responder adds the 6-pack because they see that the topic would
be of interest or could use a wider discussion.

Re traffic, I think perhaps much of what we used to see where moved to the
6-pack forum which is very active and which doesn't have the size
restrictions and attachment limitations that the autox mailer imposes and
supports embedded images so all that is left here in ascii land is us
dinosaurs.

If you haven't done so already I would encourage folks to sign up.

http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack//index.php?option=com_frontpage&Itemid=1

Stan 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of 
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 9:25 AM
To: John Summers; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] the lists

No, I have noticed that too but thought it was me.  

A lot of times I get a reply but never got the question so maybe there are
some technical issues. 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: John Summers
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: May 21, 2009 8:15 AM
Subject: [6pack] the lists

Is it just me, not paying much attention to the 6 Pack list and the Triumphs
list, or is traffic way down for the past few months?  Is it the economy, or
just people too busy to enjoy their cars?
John Summers'74 TR 6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Thu May 21 13:09:23 2009
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 15:09:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame repair - Foam Filler?
References: <mailman.7.1242842401.28739.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <F53C2D5163144E7C81E0ACAA5C7E286C@Jerry2>

Foam filler is universally used by all modern auto mfgs. Just ask a body
repair shop how it affects their decision on what to weld. I've used the
stuff from Home Depot for sealing gaps in home weather proofing
applications. It is closed-cell, and doesn't "attract" water. I'd rather
depend on injecting this stuff in my sills, frame and door posts and have
it expand to fill the space  than try to ensure that Waxol will uniformially
coat the inside surfaces of these structures. Agreed that it may have
cavities, but it blocks water flow and actually adds structural rigidity
besides sound deadening.

BTW look at what others are doing with this stuff. 
http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?t=23034&page=4

Just my $0.02 worth.

Jerry


Message: 3
Date: Wed, 20 May 2009 13:47:10 -0700
From: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] FW:  Frame repair - Foam Filler?
To: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>, 6pack at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <00b901c9d98c$25f3e700$c6f37b45 at gpcorporate.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=iso-8859-1

Hi Slone,
If you buy a new frame from RATCO they have a foam fill option for $200.
It seems to be a good idea.
http://www.rat-co.com/Frpricelist.html
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 20, 2009 10:40 AM
Subject: [6pack] FW: Frame repair - Foam Filler?


> Anybody else? I wondered if this was a bad idea.
>
>
>
> thanks for advice,
>
> Sloane :)
>
> 69-Six
>
>
>
> Date: Tue, 19 May 2009 08:48:37 -0700
>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame repair
> To: im_sloane at hotmail.com
>
>
>
>
>
> Hi.  DO NOT USE FOAM FILLER.  It WILL attract moisture and rust the entire
> frame.  Cover the frame hole.  John
>
> --- On Tue, 5/19/09, im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
> Subject: [6pack] Frame repair
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, May 19, 2009, 8:56 AM
>
>
> Hey team,
>
> I have a buddy with a Spit that is having his frame looked at. He has a
hole
> near the rear trailing arm, and I have the same problem, so will probably
> have
> the same guy repair mine. This guy seems familiar with frame repairs, and
he
> suggest filling the frame with a expanding foam filler to prevent any
> moisture
> from accumulating inside. Does anybody know anything good or bad about
this
> suggestion?

From tbe749 at aol.com  Thu May 21 13:31:16 2009
From: tbe749 at aol.com (tbe749 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 15:31:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR 250 bonnet badge needed
In-Reply-To: <B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>
Message-ID: <8CBA861D7CEBD4C-1754-DDA@webmail-dx12.sysops.aol.com>

Trying to help a friend find an original 250 bonnet badge (not a repro)?in excellent condition. Thought maybe someone might have one they want to sell. Let me know if you do.



Thanks

Tom Beaver?

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May 21 14:45:44 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 16:45:44 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] the lists
In-Reply-To: <005401c9da42$be816ea0$3b844be0$@net>
References: <561139226-1242913769-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1585865476-@bxe1246.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<005401c9da42$be816ea0$3b844be0$@net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0905211642110.10551@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 21 May 2009, Craig wrote:

> I get so lost when I go there. One or two clicks would make me happy.
> It just take too much time to get, where I want to go
> I'm a manufactures Rep. an my engineers say if it takes more than two clicks
> it's a waste of time

Fuddy-dud.

:-b

When you get right down to it, all these forms (email, forums, wikis, etc) 
are an ENORMOUS waste of time. But the pundits think it's all so kewl, so 
that what we get. Newpapers? Bwahahahaha, snail-mail? Don't be rediculous. 
REAL reporting? fugetaboutit.

If you have the wherewithall to run a web site or a blog, your KS. Doesn't 
matter if you know WTF you're talking about.

:-)

> Craig

cynically yours,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From janah at att.net  Thu May 21 15:05:45 2009
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 17:05:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?
Message-ID: <3C4943753C4945B5AB262F052D23E5DE@p4home>

Hi All-

After having my block cleaned for a rebuild, I noticed these numbers written 
on the side of the block in organge paint.  Anybody know that these 
signified?  John Mac?

http://s465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/cygan_06/?action=view&current=IMG_0651.jpg

John Cyg

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May 21 16:22:34 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 18:22:34 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Frame repair - Foam Filler?
Message-ID: <c56.57adfc16.37472e2a@aol.com>

I am going to go on the record here as predicting that in the not too  
distant future, injecting foam into chassis rails is going to come back as a bad 
 idea.  I will qualify this statement by saying that injecting foam in an  
uncontrolled, non manufacturing environment is a bad idea.  I think that  
Ratco does it (may be mistaken here) but I bet they don't drive down to Home  
Depot to pick up a can when they do it.  My bet is that they have equipment  
designed to insure coverage.  I have used this stuff in non automotive  
applications and then had the need to cut into it later.  This stuff does  
create voids and does not expand infinitely to eliminate all air space where it  
is squirted.  Personally, I would rethink a DIY application of this in a  
metal chassis.
YMMV
Just my two Euros worth, and I could be wrong.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Huge savings on HDTVs from Dell.com! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221836042x1201399880/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.ne
t%2Fclk%3B215073686%3B37034322%3Bb)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu May 21 16:27:36 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 23:27:36 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?
References: <3C4943753C4945B5AB262F052D23E5DE@p4home>
Message-ID: <F5C0D67660A8417E9DD60EC744D45BBA@John>

> After having my block cleaned for a rebuild, I noticed these numbers written on the side of the 
> block in organge paint.  Anybody know that these signified?  John Mac?

Hmm. Certainly the paint colour is familiar, though a little faded by time. Methinks perhaps the guy 
with the brush had washed it out in some thinners and was looking around for something to rub it on 
to get rid of the surplus paint? I passed the query on to an old friend who was an apprentice in 
Engine Assembly for a while - and he's just came back with this reply ....

"... looks like it was the symbol that pudding in the canteen today is Spotted Dick WITH custard."

Any help?

Jonmac 

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Thu May 21 16:38:49 2009
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 18:38:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame repair - Foam Filler?
In-Reply-To: <c56.57adfc16.37472e2a@aol.com>
References: <c56.57adfc16.37472e2a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4A15D7F9.4000305@roadrunner.com>

I wholeheartedly agree based on some past experience cutting open 
sections where foam was used. It made the rust worse.

Jim

DLylis at aol.com wrote:
> I am going to go on the record here as predicting that in the not too  
> distant future, injecting foam into chassis rails is going to come back as a bad 
>  idea.  I will qualify this statement by saying that injecting foam in an  
> uncontrolled, non manufacturing environment is a bad idea.  I think that  
> Ratco does it (may be mistaken here) but I bet they don't drive down to Home  
> Depot to pick up a can when they do it.  My bet is that they have equipment  
> designed to insure coverage.  I have used this stuff in non automotive  
> applications and then had the need to cut into it later.  This stuff does  
> create voids and does not expand infinitely to eliminate all air space where it  
> is squirted.  Personally, I would rethink a DIY application of this in a  
> metal chassis.
> YMMV
> Just my two Euros worth, and I could be wrong.
>  
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
> **************Huge savings on HDTVs from Dell.com! 
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221836042x1201399880/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.ne
> t%2Fclk%3B215073686%3B37034322%3Bb)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May 21 16:51:09 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 15:51:09 -0700
Subject: [6pack]  Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795767B10ED7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	John:

	There were some engines that were genuine Triumph factory replacements. I
have forgotten what they were called. The factory would swap out a motor on a
dealer warranty claim, or sometimes on the assembly line if a problem was
found. As I recall the engine numbers had a different prefix, and the car
would not have a matching engine number. "Matching" in this case means within
a couple hundred of the commission number - Triumph engines do not match the
commission number exactly, but are very close numerically if it is the
original engine.
	So, if you check the engine number, what is the prefix and engine number, and
what is your commission number? I am thinking that the orange paint on the
side may also indicate one of these factory supplied replacement engines. That
is just a guess, as I do not have any personal experience. Seems like I read
about it in one of my books on TR6s, perhaps John's Williams book.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Cyganowski
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 2:06 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?

Hi All-

After having my block cleaned for a rebuild, I noticed these numbers written
on the side of the block in organge paint.  Anybody know that these
signified?  John Mac?

http://s465.photobucket.com/albums/rr13/cygan_06/?action=view&current=IMG_065
1.jpg

John Cyg

From shewfamily at aol.com  Thu May 21 18:09:40 2009
From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:09:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mileage and Emission Standards
In-Reply-To: <8CBA861D7CEBD4C-1754-DDA@webmail-dx12.sysops.aol.com>
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com><B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>
	<8CBA861D7CEBD4C-1754-DDA@webmail-dx12.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CBA888BC11CC05-4D8-253A@webmail-dd21.sysops.aol.com>

Has anyone seen or read anything about the Obama administration's proposed new requirements for new car mileage and emission standards that would indicate plans?to apply those to existing?vehicles either to 1) take us off the road or?2) tax us for driving cars made before the strict?standards were put in place??? I am very concerned that eventually our hobby will be targeted by the environmentalist who will limit our ability to actually drive our cars.

Just wonder if anyone shares this concern or has a better understanding of the lobbying efforts to prevent this from happening.
John Shewmake
'74 TR6
Chattanooga, TN

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Thu May 21 18:53:15 2009
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 20:53:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mileage and Emission Standards
In-Reply-To: <8CBA888BC11CC05-4D8-253A@webmail-dd21.sysops.aol.com>
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>
	<8CBA861D7CEBD4C-1754-DDA@webmail-dx12.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBA888BC11CC05-4D8-253A@webmail-dd21.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <49f668fe0905211753v73da15fevba59359cca5cb00a@mail.gmail.com>

Not sure where you heard that but nothing that I've read says Obama
has any intentions to limit any classic cars.   AFIAK, the proposed
standards are focused on emissions from new vehicles.   If that's not
the case, I'd like to see chapter and verse.

John North

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 8:09 PM,  <shewfamily at aol.com> wrote:
> Has anyone seen or read anything about the Obama administration's proposed
new requirements for new car mileage and emission standards that would
indicate plans?to apply those to existing?vehicles either to 1) take us off
the road or?2) tax us for driving cars made before the strict?standards were
put in place??? I am very concerned that eventually our hobby will be targeted
by the environmentalist who will limit our ability to actually drive our
cars.
>
> Just wonder if anyone shares this concern or has a better understanding of
the lobbying efforts to prevent this from happening.
> John Shewmake
> '74 TR6
> Chattanooga, TN
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May 21 19:12:56 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 21 May 2009 18:12:56 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Mileage and Emission Standards
In-Reply-To: <8CBA888BC11CC05-4D8-253A@webmail-dd21.sysops.aol.com>
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com><B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>
	<8CBA861D7CEBD4C-1754-DDA@webmail-dx12.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBA888BC11CC05-4D8-253A@webmail-dd21.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795767B10FCA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	John:

	As I understand it, there has been no discussion of retroactively applying
emissions standards to old cars. Anything is possible I suppose, but it seems
unlikely.
	A more real possibility is the so called "cash for clunkers" program.
California ran a pilot program using one form of this concept. The concept is
simple, give people cash or some sort of tax incentive, to toss an old car in
the crusher.
	California's pilot paid something like $2500 for any car you cared to turn
in, provided that: 1. It had current registration. 2. It was old (25 years or
more?). 3. It was insured. 4. It had functional safety equipment (wipers, turn
signals, brake lights, etc) 4. It was driven, under its own power, to the
collection point. 5. It had a clear title.
	Calif then performed an emissions test and asked how many miles per year the
car was driven, bought the car and crushed it. They then totaled up the
estimated number of tons of pollutants that the cars would have emitted and
number of dollars spent to remove those pollutants. The conclusion was that
crushing old cars was a screaming bargain in terms of dollars spent per ton of
emissions removed from the air per year.
	The car collectors howled because potentially collectible and/or restorable
cars were being destroyed, even though the cars were no owned by collectors.
The reasoning was that the pool of potentially restorable cars would be
drastically reduced. The program was not renewed when the pilot expired.
	There are other variations on this. Offering trade in incentives, tax
credits, etc. I suppose it might be cheaper for governments to simply instruct
classic car owners to update their cars to current standards, but it seems far
fetched to me. But then, I thought it was unlikely that Obama would be our
next president too.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of shewfamily at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 5:10 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Mileage and Emission Standards

Has anyone seen or read anything about the Obama administration's proposed new
requirements for new car mileage and emission standards that would indicate
plans to apply those to existing cars?

<snip>

John Shewmake

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Fri May 22 04:17:27 2009
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry C Shaw)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 06:17:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Frame repair - Foam Filler?
References: <c56.57adfc16.37472e2a@aol.com> <4A15D7F9.4000305@roadrunner.com>
Message-ID: <C493E9AC07364C1E8261ECDBBC93809E@Jerry2>

I have a Ratco frame and, yes, it was filled with foam in an industrial 
venue, far better than a DIY operation.  Of course it is substantially 
different (new tubular steel) than an old frame  (rusted bent sheet metal) 
and  using foam on an old frame is indeed a bad idea since any untreated 
rust inside will continue.

Since my old rocker panels rusted off,  I used foam (closed cell stuff) to 
fill my newly installed rockers/sill cavities ...the same stuff Ratco uses.

I could never insure that using any kind of liquid coating product inside 
the rockers and sills would be any better. I did this in-situ after the 
rockers were welded in place, not while the body was on a rotisserie (sp?). 
Waxol on a detached frame is another matter, since it can be rotated.

I proceeded from one end of the sill/rocker with a friend underneath to tell 
me when the stuff began to extrude through openings and worked my way to the 
other end.

I guess we'll never know how it worked out. :-)
Jerry


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Franks" <jimmble at roadrunner.com>
To: <DLylis at aol.com>
Cc: <slowtoaccept at yahoo.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 6:38 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Frame repair - Foam Filler?


>I wholeheartedly agree based on some past experience cutting open sections 
>where foam was used. It made the rust worse.
>
> Jim
>
> DLylis at aol.com wrote:
>> I am going to go on the record here as predicting that in the not too 
>> distant future, injecting foam into chassis rails is going to come back 
>> as a bad idea.  I will qualify this statement by saying that injecting 
>> foam in an  uncontrolled, non manufacturing environment is a bad idea.  I 
>> think that  Ratco does it (may be mistaken here) but I bet they don't 
>> drive down to Home  Depot to pick up a can when they do it.  My bet is 
>> that they have equipment  designed to insure coverage.  I have used this 
>> stuff in non automotive  applications and then had the need to cut into 
>> it later.  This stuff does  create voids and does not expand infinitely 
>> to eliminate all air space where it  is squirted.  Personally, I would 
>> rethink a DIY application of this in a  metal chassis.
>> YMMV
>> Just my two Euros worth, and I could be wrong.
>>  David  Lylis
>> 69 TR6 CC26160L
>> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>> **************Huge savings on HDTVs from Dell.com! 
>> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221836042x1201399880/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.ne
>> t%2Fclk%3B215073686%3B37034322%3Bb)
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri May 22 05:07:17 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 12:07:17 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795767B10ED7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <BF57783260384D359BC885615A0F7FE8@John>

I thought so. Did an explanatory reply to Vance's question and its too long for 6-Pack. "Awaiting 
moderator decision." You got yours, Vance?

Jonmac 

From tony at rat-co.com  Fri May 22 06:45:01 2009
From: tony at rat-co.com (Tony Vigliotti)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:45:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <JJEELCHCNAGBHMPDMJKCCENIDLAA.tony@rat-co.com>

21 MAY 2009

HELLO LIST,						PART ONE OF THREE

		ITS BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE I STARTED READING THE LISTS DAILY
CONVERSATIONS ON THE SUBJECT I FIND SO DEAR AND BECAUSE I AM A VENDOR TO THE
TRADE I HAVE NOT ADDED MY TWO CENTS FOR FEAR OF COMING ACROSS AS SELF
SERVING. I OWN RATCO THE FRAME MANUFACTURER AND TODAY'S DISCUSSION ON FOAM
FILL THE FRAME GOT ME GOING. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND FOAM FILL FOR ALL PREPARED
FRAMES WHETHER NEW OR OLD AND HERE'S WHY. 
	
    		FIRST LET IT BE KNOWN THAT MOST ALL CARS TODAY HAVING
CHASSIS STRUCTURES ARE FOAM FILLED. MY CROSS FIRE MADE BY MERCEDES HAD ITS
FRAME FOAM FILLED AS WELL AS THE BODY PANELS.  THE CORVETTE IS FOAM FILLED
IN MANY AREAS SO ARE PORSCHE CARS AND MANY OTHERS. MY NEW FORD EDGE HAS A
CHASSIS AND IT IS ENTIRELY FOAM FILLED. TO DISPEL A MYTH, THE FOAMS OF TODAY
ARE NOT THE FOAMS OF YESTERDAY. THEY ARE MUCH BETTER AT DOING THERE INTENDED
TASK AND THAT IS TO KEEP EVERYTHING OUT OF THE CAVITIES (INCLUDING WATER)
AND SOUND DEADEN THE CHASSIS AGAINST ROAD AND DRIVE TRAIN NOISE. MY TR250
HAS FOAM FILL IN THE CHASSIS, THE SILLS, THE A AND B POSTS AND THE SPACE
BETWEEN THE LOWER FRONT FENDER AND THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. I ADD FOAM
FILLING TO THE LIST OF GOOD IDEAS THAT HAS MADE MY TR SO AMAZING A CAR.   
	 
		I JUST DIDN'T TAKE THE LEAD OF THE ENGINEERS AT THE MAJOR
AUTO COMPANIES, I DID MY OWN TESTING. I BOUGHT MANY TYPES OF FOAMS AND
APPLIED THEM TO APPLICATIONS WE FIND IN AUTO RESTORATION. I FILLED SECTIONS
OF TUBING AND THEN SUBMERGED THEM IN WATER AND THEY WEIGHED THE SAME WHEN
THEY CAME OUT AS WHEN THEY WENT IN (SOME FOR TWO WEEKS). I FILLED A 12 INCH
SECTION OF 3X3 BOX STEEL WITH FOAM ONLY HALF WAY AND THEN FILLED THE REST OF
THE CAVITY WITH WATER TO SEE IT FILTERED DOWN THE SIDES WHEN LEFT STANDING.
IT DID NOT! I WELDED BRACKETS TO SECTIONS OF THE FILLED TUBES TO SEE WHAT
WOULD HAPPEN IF REPAIRS HAD TO BE MADE AND FOUND THAT THE FOAM PULLED AWAY
FORM THE WELDED AREA BUT DID NOT FLAME AND DID NOT MELT. IT LEFT A POCKET
WHERE THE REPAIR WAS MADE ONLY. I SENT FILLED SECTIONS TO THE POWDER COATER
TO SEE IF THERE WOULD BE ANY DETRIMENT TO POWDER COATING A FOAM FILLED FRAME
AND FOUND THAT THERE IS NOT. THE FOAM STAYED IN PLACE AND DID NOT SHRINK.
THE FRAME SECTION WERE EXPOSED TO 400 F FOR 15 MINUTES AND ATTAINED A
SURFACE TEMPERATURE OF 355 DEGREES F.  I SUBMERGED BALLS OF THE MATERIAL FOR
DAYS IN WATER AND THEY NEVER TOOK ON ANY WEIGHT. EVEN THE BALLS THAT I CUT
IN HALF WERE ONLY ACCEPTED WATER IN THE AREAS THAT WERE CUT AS THE CELLS
WERE THEN OPEN AT THAT POINT. THE WATER INFILTRATED THE SURFACE BY AT 1/8 TO
3/16 INCH AND SHOOK OUT EASILY AND LEFT THE REMAINING MATERIAL DRY. I DID
MANY OTHER TEST OVER A PERIOD OF A YEAR , SPOKE TO DOW CHEMICAL AND 3M
ENGINEERS AND CAME TO THIS CONCLUSION.

								REFER TO
PART TWO FOR MORE TEXT

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From tony at rat-co.com  Fri May 22 06:50:00 2009
From: tony at rat-co.com (Tony Vigliotti)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:50:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] FOAM FILL QUESTION PART 2
Message-ID: <JJEELCHCNAGBHMPDMJKCGENIDLAA.tony@rat-co.com>

22 MAY 2009

						PART 2 OF 2 

THE FOAMS OF TODAY ACTUALLY WORK AND I RECOMMEND THEM.

		 IF YOU HAVE A STOCK FRAME AND IT IS FREE OF THE BODY AND
DRIVE CHAIN THEN I RECOMMEND THE INTERIOR OF THE CHASSIS BE CLEANED OUT OF
ALL DEBRIS AND THE SOAKED IN PHOSPHORIC ACID BUY INJECTING IT AND ROTATING
THE FRAME OR SUBMERGING IT IF POSSIBLE. WHEN THOROUGHLY DRY, FILL THE
CHASSIS WITH POLYURETHANE FOAM AND THEN CLOSE ALL ENTRY AND EXIT POINTS.
HERE'S MY REASONING: THE RUST IS ALREADY THERE AND THE PHOSPHORIC ACID BATH
WILL STOP THE EXISTING RUST BUT I WON'T STOP THE NEW RUST FROM FORMING. IN
ORDER TO DO THAT YOU HAVE TO ELIMINATE TWO ELEMENTS, OXYGEN AND WATER. BY
FOAM FILLING THE FRAME YOU DO JUST THAT. IF YOU DO NOT FOAM FILL YOU STILL
HAVE OLD RUST AND ALLOWING OXYGEN AND WATER TO ENTER WILL EXPEDITE THE
INEVITABLE. IF YOU WAXOYL OVER RUST YOU HAVE DONE NOTHING OF ANY PRACTICAL
WORTH. PHOSPHORIC ACID SHOULD BE APPLIED BEFORE THE WAXOYL OR THE FOAM. THE
POINT HERE IS THAT WHETHER YOU APPLY FOAM TO THE CHASSIS OR NOT YOU ARE NOT
GOING TO STOP RUST FROM FORMING UNLESS YOU LIMIT THE ELEMENTS THAT CAUSE
RUST. FOAM DOES THAT BETTER THEN NO FOAM OR ANYTHING ELSE.

		ON NEW FRAMES THE CHOICE IS YOURS AS THERE IS NO RUST WHEN
YOU GET THEM. THE OLD FRAMES HAVE LASTED 30 -40 YEARS ARE STILL GOING
WITHOUT ANY RUST PREVENTATIVE. THE RATCO FRAMES WILL DO AT LEAST THE SAME OR
BETTER IF LEFT UN-PROTECTED. AS ALWAYS ITS A MATTER OF HOW AND WHERE IT IS
STORED AND DRIVEN. FOAM FILL ON ANY FRAME WHETHER OLD OR NEW,  DOES ONE VERY
IMPORTANT THING THAT HAS DRIVEN THE CARS COMPANIES AND ME TO USE IT. IT
SOUND DEADENS THE FRAME AND IF USED ON THE BODY PANELS AS WELL, MAKES THE
CAR SEEM RIGID BECAUSE IT RESONATES LESS. IF YOU DO ONE OF MY EXPERIMENTS
YOURSELF YOU WILL SEE WHAT I MEAN WHEN YOU KNOCK ON THE SECTION WITH A METAL
OBJECT. YOU WILL GET A RESOUNDING THUD AND  NOT A CLANK. MY TR SOUNDS LIKE
IF IS CUT FROM A SOLID MASS WHEN YOU SLAM THE DOORS AND RIDES SOOOOO QUITE
THE ONLY THING I HEAR IS THE EXHAUST NOTE. 

		ENOUGH SAID. I RECOMMEND FOAM FILL. THAT MY STORY AND I'M
STICKING TO IT. 
		
	I INVITE QUESTIONS AS THE FOAM FILL PROCESS IS NOT EASY AND YOU NEED
TO KNOW ALL THE MISTAKES I MADE IN THE LEARNING PROCESS. 

JUST ONE MANS OPINION
REGARDS,
TONY VIGLIOTTI
RATCO INC

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From tony at rat-co.com  Fri May 22 06:50:00 2009
From: tony at rat-co.com (Tony Vigliotti)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:50:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] FOAM FILL QUESTION PART 1
Message-ID: <JJEELCHCNAGBHMPDMJKCIENIDLAA.tony@rat-co.com>

21 MAY 2009
	
PART 1 OF 2
HELLO LIST,

		ITS BEEN A LONG TIME SINCE I STARTED READING THE LISTS DAILY
CONVERSATIONS ON THE SUBJECT I FIND SO DEAR AND BECAUSE I AM A VENDOR TO THE
TRADE I HAVE NOT ADDED MY TWO CENTS FOR FEAR OF COMING ACROSS AS SELF
SERVING. I OWN RATCO THE FRAME MANUFACTURER AND TODAY'S DISCUSSION ON FOAM
FILL THE FRAME GOT ME GOING. I HIGHLY RECOMMEND FOAM FILL FOR ALL PREPARED
FRAMES WHETHER NEW OR OLD AND HERE'S WHY. 
	
    		FIRST LET IT BE KNOWN THAT MOST ALL CARS TODAY HAVING
CHASSIS STRUCTURES ARE FOAM FILLED. MY CROSS FIRE MADE BY MERCEDES HAD ITS
FRAME FOAM FILLED AS WELL AS THE BODY PANELS.  THE CORVETTE IS FOAM FILLED
IN MANY AREAS SO ARE PORSCHE CARS AND MANY OTHERS. MY NEW FORD EDGE HAS A
CHASSIS AND IT IS ENTIRELY FOAM FILLED. TO DISPEL A MYTH, THE FOAMS OF TODAY
ARE NOT THE FOAMS OF YESTERDAY. THEY ARE MUCH BETTER AT DOING THERE INTENDED
TASK AND THAT IS TO KEEP EVERYTHING OUT OF THE CAVITIES (INCLUDING WATER)
AND SOUND DEADEN THE CHASSIS AGAINST ROAD AND DRIVE TRAIN NOISE. MY TR250
HAS FOAM FILL IN THE CHASSIS, THE SILLS, THE A AND B POSTS AND THE SPACE
BETWEEN THE LOWER FRONT FENDER AND THE PASSENGER COMPARTMENT. I ADD FOAM
FILLING TO THE LIST OF GOOD IDEAS THAT HAS MADE MY TR SO AMAZING A CAR.   
	 
		I JUST DIDN'T TAKE THE LEAD OF THE ENGINEERS AT THE MAJOR
AUTO COMPANIES, I DID MY OWN TESTING. I BOUGHT MANY TYPES OF FOAMS AND
APPLIED THEM TO APPLICATIONS WE FIND IN AUTO RESTORATION. I FILLED SECTIONS
OF TUBING AND THEN SUBMERGED THEM IN WATER AND THEY WEIGHED THE SAME WHEN
THEY CAME OUT AS WHEN THEY WENT IN (SOME FOR TWO WEEKS). I FILLED A 12 INCH
SECTION OF 3X3 BOX STEEL WITH FOAM ONLY HALF WAY AND THEN FILLED THE REST OF
THE CAVITY WITH WATER TO SEE IT FILTERED DOWN THE SIDES WHEN LEFT STANDING.
IT DID NOT! I WELDED BRACKETS TO SECTIONS OF THE FILLED TUBES TO SEE WHAT
WOULD HAPPEN IF REPAIRS HAD TO BE MADE AND FOUND THAT THE FOAM PULLED AWAY
FORM THE WELDED AREA BUT DID NOT FLAME AND DID NOT MELT. IT LEFT A POCKET
WHERE THE REPAIR WAS MADE ONLY. I SENT FILLED SECTIONS TO THE POWDER COATER
TO SEE IF THERE WOULD BE ANY DETRIMENT TO POWDER COATING A FOAM FILLED FRAME
AND FOUND THAT THERE IS NOT. THE FOAM STAYED IN PLACE AND DID NOT SHRINK.
THE FRAME SECTION WERE EXPOSED TO 400 F FOR 15 MINUTES AND ATTAINED A
SURFACE TEMPERATURE OF 355 DEGREES F.  I SUBMERGED BALLS OF THE MATERIAL FOR
DAYS IN WATER AND THEY NEVER TOOK ON ANY WEIGHT. EVEN THE BALLS THAT I CUT
IN HALF WERE ONLY ACCEPTED WATER IN THE AREAS THAT WERE CUT AS THE CELLS
WERE THEN OPEN AT THAT POINT. THE WATER INFILTRATED THE SURFACE BY AT 1/8 TO
3/16 INCH AND SHOOK OUT EASILY AND LEFT THE REMAINING MATERIAL DRY. I DID
MANY OTHER TEST OVER A PERIOD OF A YEAR , SPOKE TO DOW CHEMICAL AND 3M
ENGINEERS AND CAME TO THIS CONCLUSION.

									SEE
SECOND PART FOR MORE TEXT

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From gtwincams at gmail.com  Fri May 22 07:38:03 2009
From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 06:38:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Mileage and Emission Standards
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795767B10FCA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com><B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>
	<8CBA861D7CEBD4C-1754-DDA@webmail-dx12.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBA888BC11CC05-4D8-253A@webmail-dd21.sysops.aol.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795767B10FCA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <4A16AABB.1060109@gmail.com>

California currently operates a buy-back program; I always chuckle when 
I get the annual letters offering $600 for my Lotus, Triumph or Alfa. 
There is a sentence in the letter that acknowledges the recipient may 
not want to part with a classic/collectable car...
Cheers,
Greg Tatarian
Santa Rosa

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Fri May 22 07:37:33 2009
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 08:37:33 -0500
Subject: [6pack] FOAM FILL QUESTION
In-Reply-To: <JJEELCHCNAGBHMPDMJKCGENIDLAA.tony@rat-co.com>
References: <JJEELCHCNAGBHMPDMJKCGENIDLAA.tony@rat-co.com>
Message-ID: <004401c9dae2$76cd9b60$6468d220$@biz>

Dear Tony: 

Thank you for the great insight. I appreciate your scientific approach to
investigating this question of foam.

Now, for us back-yard types, what brand and applicator type should we be
using should we decide to inject foam?

Most sincerely,

Brian J Alwin
1972 TR-6 CC79085

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri May 22 08:24:08 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 15:24:08 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query
Message-ID: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>

Hi, Everyone

The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On 
arrival in Florida in late June, I plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and 
cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in buying one from an ISP with the best 
possible coverage of the US and Canada. From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think 
O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP offering better coverage than 
Verizon. Additionally, I'd be interested to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for 
cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc) still have many weak signal areas 
where the phone antenna itself won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an 
external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking of the long stretches of road in 
rural areas and in the more mountainous areas - especially the Rockies. Thanks in advance - an 
enquiring mind needs to know.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Fri May 22 12:54:43 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 11:54:43 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
Message-ID: <006601c9db0e$c5544870$c6f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

We have cousins that are full-time living in an RV.
They have family on both coasts, north and south.
They use Verizon Wireless. They have a "minutes" type plan, I don't know if
that would make it any different.
They are happy with their services.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <spitfires at autox.team.net>; "6-Pack"
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 7:24 AM
Subject: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query


> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the
Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On
> arrival in Florida in late June, I plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go'
cellphone - something cheap and
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in buying one
from an ISP with the best
> possible coverage of the US and Canada. From my studies on the 'net of
T-Mobile, Verizon and I think
> O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP
offering better coverage than
> Verizon. Additionally, I'd be interested to know if any ISP retailers
offer external antennas for
> cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc) still have
many weak signal areas
> where the phone antenna itself won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless
its hooked up to an
> external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking of the
long stretches of road in
> rural areas and in the more mountainous areas - especially the Rockies.
Thanks in advance - an
> enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
> Database version: 6.12450
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.1.441)
Database version: 6.12450
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From 70tr6 at comcast.net  Fri May 22 10:23:03 2009
From: 70tr6 at comcast.net (Ashford Little)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 12:23:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query
In-Reply-To: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
Message-ID: <D39FCE41-C5B6-44D4-BCB1-6B757483A794@comcast.net>

John,

Don't go withT-Mobile. Good service in service area, but once you get  
out of major metro areas then you may have nothing.  I've got AT&T,  
but I hear Verizon is the best.


Ashford Little
70tr6 at comcast.net



On May 22, 2009, at 10:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:

> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the  
> Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On arrival in Florida in late June, I  
> plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and  
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in  
> buying one from an ISP with the best possible coverage of the US and  
> Canada. From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think  
> O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP  
> offering better coverage than Verizon. Additionally, I'd be  
> interested to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for  
> cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc)  
> still have many weak signal areas where the phone antenna itself  
> won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an  
> external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking  
> of the long stretches of road in rural areas and in the more  
> mountainous areas - especially the Rockies. Thanks in advance - an  
> enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation  
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 70tr6 at comcast.net

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri May 22 12:48:56 2009
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 18:48:56 +0000
Subject: [6pack] FOAM FILL QUESTION
In-Reply-To: <004401c9dae2$76cd9b60$6468d220$@biz>
References: <JJEELCHCNAGBHMPDMJKCGENIDLAA.tony@rat-co.com>
	<004401c9dae2$76cd9b60$6468d220$@biz>
Message-ID: <BLU120-W236E1554AE523139BE4D018E560@phx.gbl>

Tony,

I want to add my thanks also for your information, as I opened this can of
worms. Fortunately  I don't need a new frame (yet) or I would be coming to you
for a new one. But if you can provide any details as to what type of foam
should be used and how best to apply it to a car with the tub still on the
frame it would be very much appreciated. I was very concerned that what
sounded like a pretty good idea would be the biggest mistake ever made. I
definately appreciate your feedback.



thanks again,

Sloane :)

69-Six




> Dear Tony:
>
> Thank you for the great insight. I appreciate your scientific approach to
> investigating this question of foam.
>
> Now, for us back-yard types, what brand and applicator type should we be
> using should we decide to inject foam?
>
> Most sincerely,
>
> Brian J Alwin
> 1972 TR-6 CC79085

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_BR_life_in_synch_052009

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Fri May 22 15:42:15 2009
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 17:42:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Mileage and Emission Standards
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795767B10FCA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <967528.43981.qm@web36206.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<B8F7107718774D3AB71BA069E2413305@Dell320>
	<8CBA861D7CEBD4C-1754-DDA@webmail-dx12.sysops.aol.com>
	<8CBA888BC11CC05-4D8-253A@webmail-dd21.sysops.aol.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795767B10FCA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <49f668fe0905221442s3d779a60v4c379f99a193dbd5@mail.gmail.com>

Seems ironic that the original poster thought this was an Obama issue
when, truth be told it arises in a State with a Republican Governor.

John

On Thu, May 21, 2009 at 9:12 PM, Navarrette, Vance
<vance.navarrette at intel.com> wrote:
>        John:
>
>        As I understand it, there has been no discussion of retroactively
applying
> emissions standards to old cars. Anything is possible I suppose, but it
seems
> unlikely.
>        A more real possibility is the so called "cash for clunkers"
program.
> California ran a pilot program using one form of this concept. The concept
is
> simple, give people cash or some sort of tax incentive, to toss an old car
in
> the crusher.
>        California's pilot paid something like $2500 for any car you cared to
turn
> in, provided that: 1. It had current registration. 2. It was old (25 years
or
> more?). 3. It was insured. 4. It had functional safety equipment (wipers,
turn
> signals, brake lights, etc) 4. It was driven, under its own power, to the
> collection point. 5. It had a clear title.
>        Calif then performed an emissions test and asked how many miles per
year the
> car was driven, bought the car and crushed it. They then totaled up the
> estimated number of tons of pollutants that the cars would have emitted and
> number of dollars spent to remove those pollutants. The conclusion was that
> crushing old cars was a screaming bargain in terms of dollars spent per ton
of
> emissions removed from the air per year.
>        The car collectors howled because potentially collectible and/or
restorable
> cars were being destroyed, even though the cars were no owned by
collectors.
> The reasoning was that the pool of potentially restorable cars would be
> drastically reduced. The program was not renewed when the pilot expired.
>        There are other variations on this. Offering trade in incentives,
tax
> credits, etc. I suppose it might be cheaper for governments to simply
instruct
> classic car owners to update their cars to current standards, but it seems
far
> fetched to me. But then, I thought it was unlikely that Obama would be our
> next president too.
>
>        Vance
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of shewfamily at aol.com
> Sent: Thursday, May 21, 2009 5:10 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Mileage and Emission Standards
>
> Has anyone seen or read anything about the Obama administration's proposed
new
> requirements for new car mileage and emission standards that would indicate
> plans to apply those to existing cars?
>
> <snip>
>
> John Shewmake
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com

From janah at att.net  Fri May 22 18:13:44 2009
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 20:13:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?
Message-ID: <EFB12449D3CA463B8F2C8BEAEF26919B@p4home>

I wonder what they were having for dessert on this day?

http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/DavidK_TR6/DSC_0435.jpg

It is possibly a QC mark, but I think we are not going to find out for sure.

John Cyg 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri May 22 18:54:55 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 00:54:55 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?
In-Reply-To: <EFB12449D3CA463B8F2C8BEAEF26919B@p4home>
References: <EFB12449D3CA463B8F2C8BEAEF26919B@p4home>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF6DBD97A@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Donuts.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Cyganowski
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 8:14 PM
To: John Macartney
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?

I wonder what they were having for dessert on this day?

http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/DavidK_TR6/DSC_0435.jpg

It is possibly a QC mark, but I think we are not going to find out for sure.

John Cyg

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri May 22 20:02:53 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 22:02:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query
In-Reply-To: <D39FCE41-C5B6-44D4-BCB1-6B757483A794@comcast.net>
References: <D7B5007C003B4B05BC42000AF88BFA3E@John>
	<D39FCE41-C5B6-44D4-BCB1-6B757483A794@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <002401c9db4a$95a437c0$c0eca740$@net>

Verizon Is good in Maryland, DC and Northern Virginia to. 

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ashford Little
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 12:23 PM
To: John Macartney
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query

John,

Don't go withT-Mobile. Good service in service area, but once you get  
out of major metro areas then you may have nothing.  I've got AT&T,  
but I hear Verizon is the best.


Ashford Little
70tr6 at comcast.net



On May 22, 2009, at 10:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:

> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the  
> Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On arrival in Florida in late June, I  
> plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and  
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in  
> buying one from an ISP with the best possible coverage of the US and  
> Canada. From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think  
> O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP  
> offering better coverage than Verizon. Additionally, I'd be  
> interested to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for  
> cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc)  
> still have many weak signal areas where the phone antenna itself  
> won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an  
> external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking  
> of the long stretches of road in rural areas and in the more  
> mountainous areas - especially the Rockies. Thanks in advance - an  
> enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation  
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 70tr6 at comcast.net
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Fri May 22 20:17:40 2009
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Fri, 22 May 2009 20:17:40 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query
In-Reply-To: <D39FCE41-C5B6-44D4-BCB1-6B757483A794@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <E1M7gnn-0004fE-Tn@elasmtp-curtail.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Verizon won't pick up in the boonies(Kentucky) unless you are near
Louisville. I have found that AT&T has the best nationwide service in my
travels cross country.
BTW John I hope you have set aside time to tour the Corvette factory and
museum when you come through Bowling Green, Kentucky.

Mike
Bowling Green, KY
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=135


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ashford Little
Sent: Friday, May 22, 2009 10:23 AM
To: John Macartney
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Tangibly Triumph query

John,

Don't go withT-Mobile. Good service in service area, but once you get  
out of major metro areas then you may have nothing.  I've got AT&T,  
but I hear Verizon is the best.



Ashford Little
70tr6 at comcast.net



On May 22, 2009, at 10:24 AM, John Macartney wrote:

> Hi, Everyone
>
> The question of 'communications' raises its ugly head again for the  
> Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Stag. On arrival in Florida in late June, I  
> plan on buying a 'Pay As You Go' cellphone - something cheap and  
> cheerful. Not so worried about the make but I am interested in  
> buying one from an ISP with the best possible coverage of the US and  
> Canada. From my studies on the 'net of T-Mobile, Verizon and I think  
> O2, Verizon looks the best. I'd appreciate your thoughts on an ISP  
> offering better coverage than Verizon. Additionally, I'd be  
> interested to know if any ISP retailers offer external antennas for  
> cellphones. Some parts of Europe (mainly former communist bloc)  
> still have many weak signal areas where the phone antenna itself  
> won't pull in a call (or transmit) unless its hooked up to an  
> external antenna. Does the same apply across the pond? I'm thinking  
> of the long stretches of road in rural areas and in the more  
> mountainous areas - especially the Rockies. Thanks in advance - an  
> enquiring mind needs to know.
>
> Jonmac
>
> Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
> www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
>
> An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation  
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 70tr6 at comcast.net
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as fasttrs at mindspring.com
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com 
Version: 8.5.329 / Virus Database: 270.12.36/2125 - Release Date: 05/20/09
18:03:00

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sat May 23 02:52:23 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 09:52:23 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Numbers Painted on the Block - John Mac?
References: <EFB12449D3CA463B8F2C8BEAEF26919B@p4home>
Message-ID: <2C2B1D91EF7E4EC59779E48CE6701E65@John>

>I wonder what they were having for dessert on this day?

A company favourite. Baked apple!!!!!! Core removed and filled with brown sugar. Obvious when you 
look at the picture. RH logo suggests Doris was the cook. A dour woman who never smiled.

> http://i387.photobucket.com/albums/oo316/DavidK_TR6/DSC_0435.jpg

> It is possibly a QC mark, but I think we are not going to find out for sure.

A very fair assumption. So why not a car with a birth mark?

Jonmac

From altomare.steven at gmail.com  Sat May 23 15:29:41 2009
From: altomare.steven at gmail.com (Steven Altomare)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 17:29:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SU Throttle Linkage Setup
Message-ID: <f23b4b4d0905231429h6ea9e4fcibf14e9db460891f8@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,
So in this morning's drive I was left without a working throttle while going
down a hill.  It turns out the vertical threaded rod connecting from the
throttle linkage at the bottom of the carbs to the upper throttle shafts
somehow loosened and came apart.

I circled the part that I'm talking about in this picture:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i88/smaltomare25/100_3240.jpg

I got it back together and drove home but now I need to adjust it back the
way it was.  Is there some ideal length of that rod?  Should there be any
play in that ball/screw socket where the threaded rod meets the upper
throttle shafts? I know I've adjusted this before but I can't find the
measurements, and now that I think of it they may have been for the ZS's.

Also, these are SU HS6's I'm referring to here.

Thanks,

Steven

From YYCTR6 at shaw.ca  Sat May 23 17:07:15 2009
From: YYCTR6 at shaw.ca (Dave from Calgary)
Date: Sat, 23 May 2009 17:07:15 -0600
Subject: [6pack] SU Throttle Linkage Setup
In-Reply-To: <f23b4b4d0905231429h6ea9e4fcibf14e9db460891f8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <f23b4b4d0905231429h6ea9e4fcibf14e9db460891f8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAM1ldlKd2qZFmDS63WNqzWvCgAAAEAAAAAJt3NpQY2tMgIx2Lb+FYigBAAAAAA==@shaw.ca>

According to the Bentley manual the length of the vertical control rod
should be 3.18 in. or 80.8mm. This is for Strombergs, but it should at least
be a good reference point for the SU's.

Cheers,
Dave
www.triumphowners.com/1156
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steven Altomare
Sent: May-23-09 3:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] SU Throttle Linkage Setup

Hi all,
So in this morning's drive I was left without a working throttle while going
down a hill.  It turns out the vertical threaded rod connecting from the
throttle linkage at the bottom of the carbs to the upper throttle shafts
somehow loosened and came apart.

I circled the part that I'm talking about in this picture:

http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i88/smaltomare25/100_3240.jpg

I got it back together and drove home but now I need to adjust it back the
way it was.  Is there some ideal length of that rod?  Should there be any
play in that ball/screw socket where the threaded rod meets the upper
throttle shafts? I know I've adjusted this before but I can't find the
measurements, and now that I think of it they may have been for the ZS's.

Also, these are SU HS6's I'm referring to here.

Thanks,

Steven
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as yyctr6 at shaw.ca

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon May 25 13:06:10 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 20:06:10 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Heard on Sunday in UK at Standard-Triumph Marque Day
Message-ID: <101B2A277590491AB35E6EEAAE155FC5@John>

S-T Marque Day in the UK was the hottest day of the year, so far. Held at RAF Duxford - a branch of 
The Imperial War Museum - and near Cambridge.
Organisers said there were about 750 cars present. My wife and a friend were walking to buy 
ice-cream and overheard the following:

A little girl (about 3 years old) was walking along the serried ranks of gleaming cars with her 
Mummy.
"Mummy!!!! Look, there's another old Trump!!!"
"No darling, ssshhhh - you don't say trump. It's Triumph"

(For those of us divided by a common language, the use of 'trump' in the UK is the more polite term 
for flatulence)

So probably, if we'd all listened very carefully during the day, we might have *heard* the odd 
trump - but there's absolutely no doubt on another score and that was the number of Old Trumps 
driving them. I'm pleased to say I was one of them!

Jonmac

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Mon May 25 16:30:01 2009
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 18:30:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
Message-ID: <38599E1D098D40178754580BC812871B@instron.com>

Aggravating day on Saturday.  As an update, during the winter, I pulled my
transmission and had it rebuilt by John at Quantum Mechanics.  While he was
in there, he added an OD which I was very happy about.  Reinstalled and all
was very good for about 200 miles.  All the issues I had about grinding
during hard shifts were gone. Suddenly, shifting started to rapidly go
downhill.  Started by being difficult to shift from 3-4 and degrading to the
point where getting it into first or reverse was almost impossible.  On the
way home on Friday, I had to turn off the car and start it in first or
reverse since getting it into gear was impossible.  

So some investigation had me under the car and while my daughter pushed the
clutch, noted that I had about 5/8" of travel at the slave cylinder.  All
seemed fine there so the obvious answer was a clutch fork pin.  Ordered the
parts and pulled the transmission on Saturday.  Had the unit on the bench in
2 hours 15 minutes.  Very proud of myself until I investigated and found the
clutch fork pin to be OK.  Not Good!!  Then removed the pressure plate and
clutch disk looking for who knows what, all seemed OK.  Looking for great
insight.  Please help.

 

Darcy Hunter

'73 TR6

North Easton, MA

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon May 25 16:57:48 2009
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 15:57:48 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
In-Reply-To: <38599E1D098D40178754580BC812871B@instron.com>
References: <38599E1D098D40178754580BC812871B@instron.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0905251557k39732513tf439f800aef0da86@mail.gmail.com>

Little late now, but one thing I have learned to do [through having
not done and wishing later I had] was to test the clutchwith the drive
shaft disconnected.  Should be able to put the car in gear, put the
clutch in and rotate the rear of the tranny [indicating the clutch is
working]. Never put it all back together without doing this test.

On Mon, May 25, 2009 at 3:30 PM, Hunter, Darcy <Darcy_Hunter at instron.com>
wrote:
> Aggravating day on Saturday.  As an update, during the winter, I pulled my
> transmission and had it rebuilt by John at Quantum Mechanics.  While he was
> in there, he added an OD which I was very happy about.  Reinstalled and all
> was very good for about 200 miles.  All the issues I had about grinding
> during hard shifts were gone. Suddenly, shifting started to rapidly go
> downhill.  Started by being difficult to shift from 3-4 and degrading to
the
> point where getting it into first or reverse was almost impossible.  On the
> way home on Friday, I had to turn off the car and start it in first or
> reverse since getting it into gear was impossible.
>
> So some investigation had me under the car and while my daughter pushed the
> clutch, noted that I had about 5/8" of travel at the slave cylinder.  All
> seemed fine there so the obvious answer was a clutch fork pin.  Ordered the
> parts and pulled the transmission on Saturday.  Had the unit on the bench
in
> 2 hours 15 minutes.  Very proud of myself until I investigated and found
the
> clutch fork pin to be OK.  Not Good!!  Then removed the pressure plate and
> clutch disk looking for who knows what, all seemed OK.  Looking for great
> insight.  Please help.
>
>
>
> Darcy Hunter
>
> '73 TR6
>
> North Easton, MA
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



--
Chuck Arnold

From ken at azkiwis.com  Mon May 25 17:42:39 2009
From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 16:42:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0905251557k39732513tf439f800aef0da86@mail.gmail.com>
References: <38599E1D098D40178754580BC812871B@instron.com>
	<8cbd782d0905251557k39732513tf439f800aef0da86@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <2B22BC9606FE42FC975758AC549FABF7@AcerPC>

sounds nastily familiar to an issue I had with mine about 6-7 years ago. 
Won't go into the issues, but I finally determined the overdrive solenoid / 
plunger in the box - it's actuated by 12v - which is broken by switches on 
the gearbox top  - was jamming as the unit got warmer.  sprund for a new 
unit and the problem went away.  you might try a static test on it. 
Ignition on, but engine not running. Select od on.  do you hear a click? 
hang on, you've got it in bits, but try a variant anyway -----      okay, if 
you hear a click with 12v applied, do you hear a click from the solenoid 
when 12 is removed?    That's how i found mine; after a 25 mile run to warm 
it up a bit, it wasn't disengaging when voltage removed, due to binding..  . 
easy to replace... costs tho'


Ken
73 TR6

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 25 19:18:21 2009
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 25 May 2009 18:18:21 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
In-Reply-To: <38599E1D098D40178754580BC812871B@instron.com>
References: <38599E1D098D40178754580BC812871B@instron.com>
Message-ID: <82363.6514.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Darcy,

The last time I had the symptoms that you describe... I had lost the thrust washer at the rear main bearing. And the reason the clutch stopped working properly is because the whole crankshaft had about a 1/4" of travel front to back. I let it go too long before I discovered the root cause and ended up with a messed up crank and block. Not cool. Hopefully not your problem, but you should definitely check the end float before trying anything else.

Kendall

Camarillo, CA



________________________________
From: "Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 3:30:01 PM
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues

Aggravating day on Saturday.  As an update, during the winter, I pulled my
transmission and had it rebuilt by John at Quantum Mechanics.  While he was
in there, he added an OD which I was very happy about.  Reinstalled and all
was very good for about 200 miles.  All the issues I had about grinding
during hard shifts were gone. Suddenly, shifting started to rapidly go
downhill.  Started by being difficult to shift from 3-4 and degrading to the
point where getting it into first or reverse was almost impossible.  On the
way home on Friday, I had to turn off the car and start it in first or
reverse since getting it into gear was impossible.  

So some investigation had me under the car and while my daughter pushed the
clutch, noted that I had about 5/8" of travel at the slave cylinder.  All
seemed fine there so the obvious answer was a clutch fork pin.  Ordered the
parts and pulled the transmission on Saturday.  Had the unit on the bench in
2 hours 15 minutes.  Very proud of myself until I investigated and found the
clutch fork pin to be OK.  Not Good!!  Then removed the pressure plate and
clutch disk looking for who knows what, all seemed OK.  Looking for great
insight.  Please help.



Darcy Hunter

'73 TR6

North Easton, MA
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Tue May 26 12:37:37 2009
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 14:37:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
Message-ID: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027FA6071A47@USNorS37.instron.com>

Thanks Kendall, I did go out to the garage last night and used a pry bar to
check the end float.  Did not use a mic but by feel, didn't detect anything
measureable so I'll put that in the column of reviewed but not probable.
Darcy

Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
To: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com, 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82363.6514.qm at web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Darcy,

The last time I had the symptoms that you describe... I had lost the thrust
washer at the rear main bearing. And the reason the clutch stopped working
properly is because the whole crankshaft had about a 1/4" of travel front to
back. I let it go too long before I discovered the root cause and ended up
with a messed up crank and block. Not cool. Hopefully not your problem, but
you should definitely check the end float before trying anything else.

Kendall

Camarillo, CA

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Tue May 26 13:40:10 2009
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 19:40:10 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 in South Dakota
Message-ID: <BAY112-W22E48D41394AF0E90DC93BCF520@phx.gbl>

Low miles, Hardtop/softtop. NFI, $7,000 605-484-2730
_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_WhatsNew1_052009

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Tue May 26 15:40:14 2009
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Tue, 26 May 2009 14:40:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
In-Reply-To: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027FA6071A47@USNorS37.instron.com>
References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027FA6071A47@USNorS37.instron.com>
Message-ID: <413005.66615.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Darcy

Just a question, did you use pilot bolts to support and direct the
transmission in place upon your last assembly?

Dale
________________________________
From: "Hunter, Darcy"
<Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:37:37 PM
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission
issue

Thanks Kendall, I did go out to the garage last night and used a pry
bar to
check the end float.  Did not use a mic but by feel, didn't detect
anything
measureable so I'll put that in the column of reviewed but not
probable.
Darcy

Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
To:
Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com, 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<82363.6514.qm at web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"

Hi Darcy,

The last time I had the symptoms that you
describe... I had lost the thrust
washer at the rear main bearing. And the
reason the clutch stopped working
properly is because the whole crankshaft had
about a 1/4" of travel front to
back. I let it go too long before I discovered
the root cause and ended up
with a messed up crank and block. Not cool.
Hopefully not your problem, but
you should definitely check the end float
before trying anything else.

Kendall

Camarillo, CA
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue May 26 18:52:41 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 00:52:41 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Measuring valve lift
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV13DB5E2EF34D4B7603EC24F4530@phx.gbl>

Joe---This particular reply may be too late in arriving, as I've been out of town for a couple of weeks. Still, if you want to know how much the cam lobes have worn, (if at all) without actually removing the cam, I know of only one proper way to do this. It does require head removal, tho, which shouldn't be a big deal. Once the head is off, a dummy pushrod is needed in place of the actual pushrod(s). It won't wobble like a real pushrod must do. If you don't have one, an illustration of this is shown in Kastner's original Competition Prep Manual. I can loan you mine, if you like.

To measure lobe wear, the engine needs to be rotated with the dummy in place. A dial indicator, preferrable magnetic based,  placed on the flat top of the dummy will show when the cam is on it's base circle, and again when the lobe is at it's apex. You'll want to write down these numbers, and do it for all 12 lobes. The difference between the base circle no. and the tip of the cam lobe should be the same for all 12, unless the cam is asymmetric. If it is, then all intake should be the same, as should all exhaust.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Santamaria
Sent: Wednesday, May 13, 2009 4:40 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Measuring valve lift

Hi guys,

I am a regular member of the list for some years now and excuse me as I
don't have a TR6 but have five Saloons all with 2500 PI engines, one with a
TR6 cam, so I find all the content on engines on this list most helpful but
can't participate as much on the TR 6 per se. I'd love to have a TR6 but
unfortunately out of budget at this stage.

I do have a question though, on how to correctly measure valve lift with cam
and rockers in place.

I have tried to rest dial gauge tip on the actual rocker head on top of the
valve but clearly this point rotates through a wide arc and cannot get the
dial indicator tip end to sit on the rocker at this point anyway.

Do you instead rest the dial gauge tip on the screw adjuster and measure
from here assuming a certain rocker ratio or what is the correct method
given cam and rockers are in place.

I understand lift and duration on a TR6 engine is different to a Saloon PI
but this is just a relative measure I am after to compare between motors.

I'm trying to assess any wear in the camshaft without actually removing the
cam to do so.

Many thanks for any pointers on this and also pointers may be on measuring
duration and opening/closing angles.

Cheers

Joe.

2.5PI 1969 Mk1 Saloon Tr6 Cam Overdrive
2.5PI 1972 Mk2 Saloon Overdrive
2.5PI 1969 Mk1 Auto Saloon
2.5PI 1971 Mk2 Saloon Auto
Stag 1976 Auto
2500S Man Overdrive Saloon (SU HS6 Carbs)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed May 27 13:57:06 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 19:57:06 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV73CA9475562FC487EDF6FF4530@phx.gbl>

Darcy---There's not much left to check, after measuring the throw of the SC pushrod, checking the integrity of the fork pin, and the lack of movement of the crankshaft (thrust washers). The fact that everything was OK for the first 200 miles after the tranny/OD rebuild -should- eliminate the possibility of wrong parts being installed. But obviously something is wrong here, so I'd go back over all of the above.  Here's a few more (less likely causes of) things to check:

Air in the hydaulic system that shows up when things get hot.

Carpet? bunching that shortens the throw of the clutch pedal.

Wrong hole used at the clutch operating shaft. (Try the top hole in a pinch)

This same three-holed arm should be in a vertical position when at rest.

A missing internal spring in the SC.

You hould now be able to get the darn thing out in under two hours!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Hunter, Darcy
Sent: Monday, May 25, 2009 3:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues

Aggravating day on Saturday.  As an update, during the winter, I pulled my
transmission and had it rebuilt by John at Quantum Mechanics.  While he was
in there, he added an OD which I was very happy about.  Reinstalled and all
was very good for about 200 miles.  All the issues I had about grinding
during hard shifts were gone. Suddenly, shifting started to rapidly go
downhill.  Started by being difficult to shift from 3-4 and degrading to the
point where getting it into first or reverse was almost impossible.  On the
way home on Friday, I had to turn off the car and start it in first or
reverse since getting it into gear was impossible.  

So some investigation had me under the car and while my daughter pushed the
clutch, noted that I had about 5/8" of travel at the slave cylinder.  All
seemed fine there so the obvious answer was a clutch fork pin.  Ordered the
parts and pulled the transmission on Saturday.  Had the unit on the bench in
2 hours 15 minutes.  Very proud of myself until I investigated and found the
clutch fork pin to be OK.  Not Good!!  Then removed the pressure plate and
clutch disk looking for who knows what, all seemed OK.  Looking for great
insight.  Please help.

 

Darcy Hunter

'73 TR6

North Easton, MA
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Wed May 27 14:51:01 2009
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 16:51:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
In-Reply-To: <413005.66615.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027FA6071A47@USNorS37.instron.com>
	<413005.66615.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3B5176F9763B4F8BB5DB89428FC53C56@instron.com>

No I did not Dale and in fact it was a bugger getting in until it finally
popped in place.  Do you think something could have come loose but not
showed up as a problem immediately?

Darcy

 

  _____  

From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 5:40 PM
To: Hunter, Darcy; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue

 

Darcy

 

Just a question, did you use pilot bolts to support and direct the
transmission in place upon your last assembly?

 

Dale

 

  _____  

From: "Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:37:37 PM
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue

Thanks Kendall, I did go out to the garage last night and used a pry bar to
check the end float.  Did not use a mic but by feel, didn't detect anything
measureable so I'll put that in the column of reviewed but not probable.
Darcy

Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
To: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com, 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <82363.6514.qm at web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Hi Darcy,

The last time I had the symptoms that you describe... I had lost the thrust
washer at the rear main bearing. And the reason the clutch stopped working
properly is because the whole crankshaft had about a 1/4" of travel front to
back. I let it go too long before I discovered the root cause and ended up
with a messed up crank and block. Not cool. Hopefully not your problem, but
you should definitely check the end float before trying anything else.

Kendall

Camarillo, CA

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Wed May 27 15:35:15 2009
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 14:35:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
Message-ID: <681553.4118.qm@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Darcy

>From things I have learned from Dick Taylor all things are possible.
One of things that this could be, since pilot bolts weren't used, is that the
trans settled a wee bit causing a misalignment of the input shaft and this
caused your hard shifting and engagement of the gears.  

When you go to put
the unit back in try the following.

Remove the two studs into the block at
the eleven and the one o'clock position with bolts of the same size that are
about 4" long with the heads removed. The more shoulder length the better.
Then place the transmission on the bolts and carefully slide the transmission
into position. Tighten the nut on the center stud and put in the remaining
nuts and bolts. Once all are tighten remove the long bolts and replace with
the studs and thier nuts and tighten them down.

This is to get the
transmission into the correct position. 


Then try what others have suggested
before complete assembly.

Dale



________________________________
From:
"Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com>
To: Dale <tpdwinch at yahoo.com>
Cc:
6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 4:51:01 PM
Subject: RE:
[6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue


No I did not Dale and in fact it was a
bugger getting in until it finally popped in place.  Do you think something
could have come loose but not showed up as a problem immediately?
Darcy
 
________________________________

From:Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com] 
Sent:
Tuesday, May 26, 2009 5:40 PM
To: Hunter, Darcy; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject:
Re: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
 
Darcy
 
Just a question, did you use
pilot bolts to support and direct the transmission in place upon your last
assembly?
 
Dale
 

________________________________

From:"Hunter, Darcy"
<Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com>
To: " 6pack at autox.team.net " < 6pack at autox.team.net
>
Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:37:37 PM
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission
issue

Thanks Kendall , I did go out to the garage last night and used a pry
bar to
check the end float.  Did not use a mic but by feel, didn't detect
anything
measureable so I'll put that in the column of reviewed but not
probable.
Darcy

Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/transmission Issues
To:
Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com, 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<82363.6514.qm at web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Content-Type: text/plain;
charset="us-ascii"

Hi Darcy,

The last time I had the symptoms that you
describe... I had lost the thrust
washer at the rear main bearing. And the
reason the clutch stopped working
properly is because the whole crankshaft had
about a 1/4" of travel front to
back. I let it go too long before I discovered
the root cause and ended up
with a messed up crank and block. Not cool.
Hopefully not your problem, but
you should definitely check the end float
before trying anything else.

Kendall

Camarillo , CA

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed May 27 15:51:45 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 14:51:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] tr6 wiper arms
Message-ID: <640607.74228.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

anyone have any late model wiper arms that they want to get rid of

From jmitch at snet.net  Wed May 27 18:38:28 2009
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 20:38:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
In-Reply-To: <3B5176F9763B4F8BB5DB89428FC53C56@instron.com>
References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027FA6071A47@USNorS37.instron.com>
	<413005.66615.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<3B5176F9763B4F8BB5DB89428FC53C56@instron.com>
Message-ID: <4A1DDD04.9020508@snet.net>

   The first time I installed my transmission,  I allowed the weight of 
the transmission to hang briefly on the input shaft as I aligned 
things.  Big mistake.  I caused the friction plate to get slightly bent 
and caused the clutch to not disengage.  After that I used long(6") 
studs in the upper 3 holes across the top of the rear engine plate to 
hang the transmission on while getting everything to slide together.  
Not sure that's your problem, but it's something to think about.  John 
Mitchell  76 TR6  72 Stag

Hunter, Darcy wrote:
> No I did not Dale and in fact it was a bugger getting in until it finally
> popped in place.  Do you think something could have come loose but not
> showed up as a problem immediately?
>
> Darcy
>
>  
>
>   _____  
>
> From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com] 
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 5:40 PM
> To: Hunter, Darcy; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
>
>  
>
> Darcy
>
>  
>
> Just a question, did you use pilot bolts to support and direct the
> transmission in place upon your last assembly?
>
>  
>
> Dale
>
>  
>
>   _____  
>
> From: "Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com>
> To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:37:37 PM
> Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
>
> Thanks Kendall, I did go out to the garage last night and used a pry bar to
> check the end float.  Did not use a mic but by feel, didn't detect anything
> measureable so I'll put that in the column of reviewed but not probable.
> Darcy

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 27 20:36:06 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 May 2009 22:36:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
In-Reply-To: <4A1DDD04.9020508@snet.net>
References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027FA6071A47@USNorS37.instron.com><413005.66615.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><3B5176F9763B4F8BB5DB89428FC53C56@instron.com>
	<4A1DDD04.9020508@snet.net>
Message-ID: <D919F287ACCB492FB616C726F8BA3014@BOBSNEWPC>

 John,
I did the same thing as you with the bolts. It worked great and guided the
tranny right in. You can see how here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedEngineInstall.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Wednesday, May 27, 2009 8:38 PM
To: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue

   The first time I installed my transmission,  I allowed the weight of the
transmission to hang briefly on the input shaft as I aligned things.  Big
mistake.  I caused the friction plate to get slightly bent and caused the
clutch to not disengage.  After that I used long(6") studs in the upper 3
holes across the top of the rear engine plate to hang the transmission on
while getting everything to slide together.  
Not sure that's your problem, but it's something to think about.  John
Mitchell  76 TR6  72 Stag

Hunter, Darcy wrote:
> No I did not Dale and in fact it was a bugger getting in until it 
> finally popped in place.  Do you think something could have come loose 
> but not showed up as a problem immediately?
>
> Darcy
>
>  
>
>   _____
>
> From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 5:40 PM
> To: Hunter, Darcy; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
>
>  
>
> Darcy
>
>  
>
> Just a question, did you use pilot bolts to support and direct the 
> transmission in place upon your last assembly?
>
>  
>
> Dale
>
>  
>
>   _____
>
> From: "Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com>
> To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 26, 2009 2:37:37 PM
> Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
>
> Thanks Kendall, I did go out to the garage last night and used a pry 
> bar to check the end float.  Did not use a mic but by feel, didn't 
> detect anything measureable so I'll put that in the column of reviewed but
not probable.
> Darcy
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From TRsick at aol.com  Thu May 28 14:47:00 2009
From: TRsick at aol.com (TRsick at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 16:47:00 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Seat belts?
Message-ID: <ca5.3f336603.37505244@aol.com>

Hi All:
    Time to replace my old worn out seat belts in my 76  TR6. Any one have
recommendations (good & bad) for replacements.
    Bob
_www.capecodpowdercoating.com_ (http://www.capecodpowdercoating.com)
_www.capecodbritishcarclub.org_ (http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org)
**************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb
diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com.
(http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve
-Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=eml
cntnew00000007)

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu May 28 15:08:52 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:08:52 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Seat belts?
In-Reply-To: <ca5.3f336603.37505244@aol.com>
References: <ca5.3f336603.37505244@aol.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF75997D3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bob, many people seem happy with the Securon belts that most of the suppliers
sell. I was not for a number of reasons and was led to Kai Radicke of Wishbone
Classics that had researched and compiled a set of belts that suited me
better. They cost a few dollars more but they spool, they look right and the
ends fit into the seat belt parkers.

Here's a note I posted to the list last year on this topic:

From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster,
Stan
Sent: Sunday, August 17, 2008 2:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Pictures and demo video of Kai's seat belts

A couple of people were interested in how the seat belts from Kai Radicke
looked when they are installed. I took a few pictures and my wife shot a
video
of the belts in operation. Apologies for the poor quality of the audio/video,
it was shot using my phone, must get a video camera one of these days...

http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Seat%20Belts/


The only picture that might need a bit of explanation is this one showing the
plastic cover that goes over the upper wheel arch attachment point. I found
that the end of the cover was interfering with the way the belt moved through
the metal loop so I removed about < of an inch from the end of the cover
using
a hacksaw (images shows the cut area circled in red and this is the  picture
after the surgery) and now the belt moves freely through the top loop. The
cover still clips to the bolt and looks fine.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Seat%20Belts/Modifiedcov
er.jpg

Should also mention that the seats are Miata of course and the belt spooler
on
the wheel arch is well clear of the roll bar so no issues there.

There may be other/different/better/cheaper solutions out there, these worked
for me.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TRsick at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 28, 2009 4:47 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Seat belts?

Hi All:
    Time to replace my old worn out seat belts in my 76  TR6. Any one have
recommendations (good & bad) for replacements.
    Bob
_www.capecodpowdercoating.com_ (http://www.capecodpowdercoating.com)
_www.capecodbritishcarclub.org_ (http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org)
**************We found the real bHotel Californiab and the bSeinfeldb
diner. What will you find? Explore WhereItsAt.com.
(http://www.whereitsat.com/#/music/all-spots/355/47.796964/-66.374711/2/Youve
-Found-Where-Its-At?ncid=eml
cntnew00000007)

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Thu May 28 15:16:36 2009
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 17:16:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
In-Reply-To: <D919F287ACCB492FB616C726F8BA3014@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027FA6071A47@USNorS37.instron.com><413005.66615.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com><3B5176F9763B4F8BB5DB89428FC53C56@instron.com>
	<4A1DDD04.9020508@snet.net>
	<D919F287ACCB492FB616C726F8BA3014@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <B26CAD763E2C43D0B4AFCD2E5E002854@instron.com>

One thing I realized that might be an issue was a modification I did to the
Throw-out bearing.  Before reinstalling the tranny, I examine the T-O
bearing and realized it was missing a part seen on a previous unit.  A small
pin was missing that prevented the bearing from rotating on the clutch fork
itself.  To remedy, I drill a small hole and inserted a split pin.  Maybe
this was a mistake and that pin omission wasn't a cost reduction but
performance improvement.  Could this have caused a problem or do most good
T-O bearings have this pin in place.
Darcy 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] 

 John,
I did the same thing as you with the bolts. It worked great and guided the
tranny right in. You can see how here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedEngineInstall.htm

Bob Danielson

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Mitchell

   The first time I installed my transmission,  I allowed the weight of the
transmission to hang briefly on the input shaft as I aligned things.  Big
mistake.  I caused the friction plate to get slightly bent and caused the
clutch to not disengage.  After that I used long(6") studs in the upper 3
holes across the top of the rear engine plate to hang the transmission on
while getting everything to slide together.  
Not sure that's your problem, but it's something to think about.  John
Mitchell  76 TR6  72 Stag

Hunter, Darcy wrote:
> No I did not Dale and in fact it was a bugger getting in until it 
> finally popped in place.  Do you think something could have come loose 
> but not showed up as a problem immediately?
>
> Darcy
>
> From: Dale [mailto:tpdwinch at yahoo.com]
>
> Just a question, did you use pilot bolts to support and direct the 
> transmission in place upon your last assembly?

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu May 28 15:34:23 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 28 May 2009 21:34:23 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch/Transmission issue
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV122345F553BE6CDC3DD861F4500@phx.gbl>

Darcy---The pin you installed is called the "anti-rotation" pin. It's purpose is what it implies -- to stop the bearing housing from rotating (and wearing on) the front cover OD and the bearing sleeve ID. Some owners have left this pin out. Some years ago I also tried this for a time, wanting to get more life out of the RHP throwout bearing. I found it created wear, as described above.  Wear on these sliding parts can lead to clutch and bearing misalignment, which of course we want to avoid.
Using this pin will eventually "notch" the bearing sleeve, but this doen't seem to be a problem in itself.

My earlier post to Dale, you and (6 pack) was rejected for being "too long", so I will try to shorten it at this time.
Dale's idea to make the top two studs longer to aid in alignment is a good one. However, I don't think this creates a problem with clutch disengagement. Misalignment Will set up a potential squeal between the clutch and t/o bearing  The problem of not being able to get the tranny into gear with the motor running is primarily caused by the input shaft turning, when it shouldn't be. The clutch is partially still engaged.

Dick

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri May 29 15:25:37 2009
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 17:25:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter
Message-ID: <4A2052D1.50706@snet.net>

   I installed a new Crossland canister type oil filter and I'm not sure 
I have it in right.  One side is wide open and the other has a hole the 
size of the center bolt.  I put the more closed side toward the block.  
Is this correct?  Thanks,  John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri May 29 16:40:41 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 18:40:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.west
	chester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <662105274.15391101243635485010.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <xagU1b00D5Bccag05agUlv.@charter.net>

At 06:24 PM 5/29/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

>Question, though.B  It doesn't seem that 25k miles, or even 50k miles for that
>matter, are enough to get out of a fuel pump.

Did you install the Facet filter ahead of the pump, and change it regularly?


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Corrosion Acres, Georgia         #354 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri May 29 17:08:21 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 23:08:21 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV40BD512CD8538BF2CDC8BF4510@phx.gbl>

John---Filtering-wise, it shouldn't make any difference.  However, the centering of the filter is better served when the bolt centers the filter at the block and the spring loaded bi-pass valve centers the opposite end of the filter. You have it correct.

Just as a footnote on this subject, it looks like the Bentley Manual has the oil flow "arrows" opposite as to the way they should be. To get the bi-pass valve to open, as in the case of a clogged filter, oil flow has to come down the center and return down the sides. No?

Dick


Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: John Mitchell
Sent: Friday, May 29, 2009 2:25 PM
To: 6-Pack, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter

   I installed a new Crossland canister type oil filter and I'm not sure 
I have it in right.  One side is wide open and the other has a hole the 
size of the center bolt.  I put the more closed side toward the block.  
Is this correct?  Thanks,  John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 Stag
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From emanteno at gmail.com  Fri May 29 18:40:30 2009
From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 19:40:30 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <662105274.15391101243635485010.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
	<1090769483.15393131243635871389.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <354a1780905291740n67f857a5qcd6df76d523e8fc6@mail.gmail.com>

On Fri, May 29, 2009 at 5:24 PM, <terryrs at comcast.net> wrote:


> Any new alternatives out there for electric fuel pumps for up to 4#'s of
> pressure that are cheap yet reliable?



FWIW, I have had the same Facet in my TR6 since 1995. I also carry a spare,
but I haven't needed it yet. Before I went to the Facet, I used interrupter
style electric fuel pumps. The diaphragms in those pumps did not get along
with the oxygenated fuels that were available. The Facet, both the one in my
car and the spare, claim to be compatible with all fuels.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From fishplate at charter.net  Fri May 29 20:12:22 2009
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Fri, 29 May 2009 22:12:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <649360440.15399971243637334156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westc
	hester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <xagU1b00D5Bccag05agUlv.@charter.net>
	<649360440.15399971243637334156.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <xeC21b00Y5Bccag05eC2yE.@charter.net>

At 06:48 PM 5/29/2009, terryrs at comcast.net wrote:

>Thanks, Jeff. That's interesting. Installation instructions don't 
>say anything about putting a fuel filter in.

I bought my 40105 from Aircraft 
Spruce...  <http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/eppages/facetpumps.php>

The instructions that came with the pump mention that a #479735 
filter is required...I knew to order that when I got the pump, but I 
can't remember how I knew.  I recall either on the ordering page, or 
somewhere in the fine print, that the warranty would be void if you 
didn't put in their filter.

Could be a piece of grit got caught in there?  I don't know how 
susceptible they are to that kind of stuff.  Mine is in-line, but not 
operating as a rule.  So far, the filter hasn't clogged that I can tell.

Cheers,
Jeff

From derick at zeni.net  Sat May 30 09:35:24 2009
From: derick at zeni.net (Don Erickson)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 10:35:24 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV40BD512CD8538BF2CDC8BF4510@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV40BD512CD8538BF2CDC8BF4510@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.63.0905301033520.2138@shark.zeni.net>

On Fri, 29 May 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Just as a footnote on this subject, it looks like the Bentley Manual has 
> the oil flow "arrows" opposite as to the way they should be. To get the 
> bi-pass valve to open, as in the case of a clogged filter, oil flow has 
> to come down the center and return down the sides. No?

I'm saying no.  It is my understanding that all filters commonly flow from 
the outside in, as this maximizes the filtering area.

Regards,

-Don

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sat May 30 09:40:47 2009
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 09:40:47 -0600
Subject: [6pack] test
Message-ID: <4A21537F.6090305@tscusa.org>

Test ping on option change

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Sat May 30 10:01:35 2009
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 09:01:35 -0700
Subject: [6pack] ZS carbs running rich
Message-ID: <000001c9e13f$e9064020$b1191718@computer>

My fairly recently rebuilt ZS carbs on my '74 TR6 are running rich (tailpipe
has black soot).  There is a gas smell in the engine compartment too.  The
gas smell seems to be coming from one of the carbs.  Does this sound like
the float level is too high in this carb?  There are no outright gas leaks.
Any thoughts would be appreciated.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sat May 30 11:08:56 2009
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 13:08:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
In-Reply-To: <1747094407.15512071243689631931.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
References: <xeC21b00Y5Bccag05eC2yE.@charter.net>
	<1747094407.15512071243689631931.JavaMail.root@sz0059a.westchester.pa.mail.comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W6D4947CBCA62231743B43BA4E0@phx.gbl>

Hmmmm, those look just like the elcheapo ones I purchased at autozone a few
years ago. Are the Facets different or is it just a different sticker?  I am
getting ready to buy a spare for Evelyn's TR8 to take to TRA just in case and
I'll order a Facet if it's better.

Marty

> Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 13:20:31 +0000
> From: terryrs at comcast.net
> To: fishplate at charter.net
> CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
>
> >The instructions that came with the pump mention that a #479735
> >filter is required...I knew to order that when I got the pump, but I
> >can't remember how I knew. B I recall either on the ordering page, or
> >somewhere in the fine print, that the warranty would be void if you
> >didn't put in their filter.
>
>
> Jeff, you are absolutely right.B I checked my instructions again, and there
it
> is.B Guess I need to get me one of them doodads!
>
>
>
> Thanks, Jeff.
>
>
>
> BTW, Aircraft Spruce is where I got mine too.
>
>
>
> Terry
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

_________________________________________________________________
Hotmail. has a new way to see what's up with your friends.
http://windowslive.com/Tutorial/Hotmail/WhatsNew?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Tutoria
l_WhatsNew1_052009

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat May 30 13:45:30 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 19:45:30 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV116906C894AD9713E76EDDF44E0@phx.gbl>

Hi, Don---Let's say that you and the Bentley manual are right, and oil does flow from the outside to the inside of the filter. How then would the filter bi-pass work, as it looks like pressure from the inside out is necessary push the spring loaded bi-pass valve off it's seat, to let oil flow? (If the filter won't the oil pass thru).

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Don Erickson
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 8:35 AM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor
Cc: John Mitchell, 6-Pack, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Crossland oil filter

On Fri, 29 May 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Just as a footnote on this subject, it looks like the Bentley Manual has 
> the oil flow "arrows" opposite as to the way they should be. To get the 
> bi-pass valve to open, as in the case of a clogged filter, oil flow has 
> to come down the center and return down the sides. No?

I'm saying no.  It is my understanding that all filters commonly flow from 
the outside in, as this maximizes the filtering area.

Regards,

-Don

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat May 30 14:12:23 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 20:12:23 GMT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Facet Electric Fuel Pump
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV873DD264BF68B168B13A2F44E0@phx.gbl>

Terry---The Purolator electric fuel pump is a decent pump for the money. It puts out around five pounds of pressure, so it's advisable to use a regulator to reduce the force. The first one I used lasted 10 years, so now I'm on my second one. The cost of the second one was close to $50. If you go this route, know that the angle the pump is mounted at is sensitive in avoiding air bubbles, so follow the instructions provided.

Dick

From derick at zeni.net  Sat May 30 16:20:08 2009
From: derick at zeni.net (Don Erickson)
Date: Sat, 30 May 2009 17:20:08 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV116906C894AD9713E76EDDF44E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV116906C894AD9713E76EDDF44E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.63.0905301712490.17361@shark.zeni.net>

On Sat, 30 May 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Hi, Don---Let's say that you and the Bentley manual are right, and oil 
> does flow from the outside to the inside of the filter. How then would 
> the filter bi-pass work, as it looks like pressure from the inside out 
> is necessary push the spring loaded bi-pass valve off it's seat, to let 
> oil flow? (If the filter won't the oil pass thru).

Okay, look again at the Bentley manual drawing.  It shows the oil moving 
along the outside of the plugged filter, then pushing open the 
spring-loaded relief valve at the bolt, pushing it toward the engine 
block, and thus getting around the plugged filter.  The valve is moved 
off it's seat from oil pressure that is pushing from outside the 
paper filter element.

I'm saying the Bentley drawing shows exactly how the overflow valve works.


Regards,

-Don

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun May 31 00:02:26 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 06:02:26 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV10F16CE2479D34550F9E2FF44F0@phx.gbl>

Don---Thanks for continuing on this. Maybe I just have the filter parts stacked wrong, but it looks like oil can't go anyway but thru the middle of the filter to the outside.. I see how the Bentley diagram shows this flow, (which got me started) but when coupling these parts in my (spare) oil filter assembly, it would seem like oil trying to go from the outside in won't unseat the by-pass valve. Having the actual parts in hand would make this appear to be the case..

Any others care to join in? How about those with the spin-on style? The full flow feature should be the same.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Don Erickson
Sent: Saturday, May 30, 2009 3:20 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor
Cc: John Mitchell, 6-Pack, triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Crossland oil filter

On Sat, 30 May 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Hi, Don---Let's say that you and the Bentley manual are right, and oil 
> does flow from the outside to the inside of the filter. How then would 
> the filter bi-pass work, as it looks like pressure from the inside out 
> is necessary push the spring loaded bi-pass valve off it's seat, to let 
> oil flow? (If the filter won't the oil pass thru).

Okay, look again at the Bentley manual drawing.  It shows the oil moving 
along the outside of the plugged filter, then pushing open the 
spring-loaded relief valve at the bolt, pushing it toward the engine 
block, and thus getting around the plugged filter.  The valve is moved 
off it's seat from oil pressure that is pushing from outside the 
paper filter element.

I'm saying the Bentley drawing shows exactly how the overflow valve works.


Regards,

-Don

From ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com  Sun May 31 07:51:04 2009
From: ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 09:51:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun
Message-ID: <002f01c9e1f6$d771e5a0$8655b0e0$@com>

It is the last day of May, tomorrow is the last day you can post your entry
to the PVGPA Historic races at BeaveRun and still get the discount! In
today's world it is probably the best deal in Vintage Racing! If you opt for
the full 3 day package you will get more driving time than you may have
tires for! We have all sorts of things planned from our included trackside
reception on Friday to the optional race dinner on Saturday. On Friday the
kart track will be open and we are working on having that open all weekend.
If we can entice enough mini's to come out and play we have a separate race
for them. Since we offer full refunds there is no reason not to send in your
check today. (remember it is made out to PVGPA and so a portion of it is tax
deductable - how much is between you, your accountant and God) OUR REFUND
POLICY IS THUS - IF YOU DO NOT PUT A WHEEL ON THE TRACK ON Friday OR
SATURDAY YOU GET YOUR ENTIRE REFUND. IF YOU PACK UP FRIDAY NIGHT AND GO DO
NOT PARTICIPATE IN ANY MORE ACTIVITIES WE WILL REFUND THE RACE WEEKEND
PORTION - IF YOU WANT TO HANG AROUND FOR THE WEEKEND BUT YOUR CAR HAS DIED
BEFORE THE FIRST SESSION ON SATURDAY WE WILL REFUND JUST YOUR ENTRY FEE.


 

 We are planning a big Trans-Am race so we really want to see all of the
classic sedans out there. At this particular race we have a spot for a
number of cars that are not normally seen at VRG events. One that comes to
mind is air cooled Super VEE.

 Great racing, great fun, and great charities that your entry fees are going
to. A perfect summer weekend!

 

 For more information forms, links, etc please go to www.cloverleaf-auto.com
and click the vintage racing link - click the BeaveRun link next and you
should find all you need there or a link to where ever you may want to go -
VRG, PVGPA, etc

 

 Thanks and I expect to see you there

Ralph Steinberg

 PVGPA Director of Competition BeaveRun Historics

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun May 31 09:37:40 2009
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 08:37:40 -0700
Subject: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <002f01c9e1f6$d771e5a0$8655b0e0$@com>
References: <002f01c9e1f6$d771e5a0$8655b0e0$@com>
Message-ID: <a06240801c64854b09dbe@[192.168.2.2]>

OK, where is BeaverRun?
-- 
"Thinking is the hardest work there is. That's why so few people 
undertake it." - Henry Ford
Bill Pugh
anabil007 at comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun May 31 09:58:40 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 11:58:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <002f01c9e1f6$d771e5a0$8655b0e0$@com>
References: <002f01c9e1f6$d771e5a0$8655b0e0$@com>
Message-ID: <0F3A92553FA14D9687353E1C2C85EF90@Robert>

Snip> OK, where is BeaverRun?



Pittburgh, PA. The acronym stands for Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
Association. Went one year to watch. Just amazing. From Morgan Trikes to
Devins with Porche engines in them. Going break neck speeds. 

From derick at zeni.net  Sun May 31 10:14:56 2009
From: derick at zeni.net (Don Erickson)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 11:14:56 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] Crossland oil filter
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV10F16CE2479D34550F9E2FF44F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV10F16CE2479D34550F9E2FF44F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.63.0905311048260.19593@shark.zeni.net>

On Sun, 31 May 2009, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Don---Thanks for continuing on this. Maybe I just have the filter parts 
> stacked wrong, but it looks like oil can't go anyway but thru the middle 
> of the filter to the outside..


I managed to find my old filter housing, and I think I see what you're 
saying.  But the obvious spring that presses against the housing and 
filter spacer/centerer at the bolt head is not the by-pass spring, it just 
holds the spacer and thus the paper element against the block and doesn't 
move nor change it's pressure as long as the filter is in place.

Look closely at the inside of that round spacer, there's another spring 
inside of it that IS the by-pass spring, this is the spring that gets 
compressed by the oil pressure coming from the outside of the filter.

You're assuming that the spacer flange is the bypass valve seat. 
Rather, the valve seat is inside of the spacer and is lifted open going 
the other direction.

That's got to be how it works.  All round filters filter outside-in, I've 
never heard of an exception to this rule.  It's also what the Bentry 
manual shows.

It's not necessarily intuitive, but that's my story.

Regards,

-Don

From ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com  Sun May 31 11:51:08 2009
From: ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com (Ralph Steinberg)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 13:51:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <0F3A92553FA14D9687353E1C2C85EF90@Robert>
References: <002f01c9e1f6$d771e5a0$8655b0e0$@com>
	<0F3A92553FA14D9687353E1C2C85EF90@Robert>
Message-ID: <001e01c9e218$60a9c100$21fd4300$@com>

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Liam Gannon [mailto:trsix74 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 11:59 AM
To: 'Ralph Steinberg'; '6pack'
Subject: RE: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun

Snip> OK, where is BeaverRun?



Pittburgh, PA. The acronym stands for Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
Association. Went one year to watch. Just amazing. From Morgan Trikes to
Devins with Porche engines in them. Going break neck speeds. 

 BeaveRun is just a bit west of Pittsburgh (where we run in Schenley Park
for the Vintage Grand Prix) in Beaver Falls PA
 Ralph

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun May 31 12:31:22 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 14:31:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun
In-Reply-To: <001e01c9e218$60a9c100$21fd4300$@com>
References: <002f01c9e1f6$d771e5a0$8655b0e0$@com>
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Snip> OK, where is BeaverRun?



Snip> Pittsburgh, PA. The acronym stands for Pittsburgh Vintage Grand Prix
Association. Went one year to watch. Just amazing. From Morgan Trikes to
Devins with Porche engines in them. Going break neck speeds. 

Snip> BeaveRun is just a bit west of Pittsburgh (where we run in Schenley
Park for the Vintage Grand Prix) in Beaver Falls PA

Oh, sorry, guess I was wrong. (Fancy that!) Well the one at Schenley Park is
a real hoot!

-----Original Message-----
From: Ralph Steinberg [mailto:ralph at cloverleaf-auto.com] 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 1:51 PM
To: 'Robert Liam Gannon'; '6pack'
Subject: RE: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun



-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Liam Gannon [mailto:trsix74 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, May 31, 2009 11:59 AM
To: 'Ralph Steinberg'; '6pack'
Subject: RE: [6pack] PVGPA Historic Races at BeaveRun

Ralph

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Sun May 31 20:15:19 2009
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Sun, 31 May 2009 22:15:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Transmission/Clutch issues
Message-ID: <A06B1A4A1F8F4E7EB120ED52DB51297A@instron.com>

Update on this weekend.  Decided to go ahead and reinstall the transmission
using the new clutch fork, shaft and pin that I had gotten even though there
was nothing apparent wrong with the parts removed other than slight wear.
On the install, did use 5/16 inch pilot bolts suggested and it made the job
sooo much easier than before.  Thanks for the suggestion.  Started it up on
Saturday morning and drove for 5 miles and the issues reappeared.  Without
the transmission cover on I could see I was getting good motion but I was
just not getting full disengagement and the clutch was activating with the
peddle just off the floor.  Then decided to bleed again and called a friend
to help just as I had employed my daughter for assistance.  It was then I
remembered reading about the bleeding method described in the manual.  Just
but the end from the bleeder valve in fluid, open the valve and pump the
peddle a few times.  Double checked this and decided to try this before my
friend came over.  Incredible...the peddle felt completely different and low
and behold, problem solved.  Spend 4 more hours today reinstalling
everything else including draining the 90 weight gear oil out and replacing
in with Non-detergent 30 weight and I'm done.  Even had time to give it a
wash and my winter project is over.  Transmission woes and cured, OD has
been added, new carpet installed and now all I want to do is drive.  And
just in time for Drive your British Car Week.  Thanks for all the help.

 

Darcy Hunter

'73 TR6

North Easton, MA