From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com  Thu Jan  1 10:38:26 2009
From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson)
Date: Thu, 1 Jan 2009 12:38:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Front Side Markers - '73
In-Reply-To: <164284673044541223304167957754462388089-Webmail@me.com>
Message-ID: <OFC5D419C7.C2E56A6B-ON85257531.006014E6-85257531.0060E74B@us.ibm.com>

Thanks to all who chimed in......it's settled then.  '73's, at least, had
plain turn signal lenses and silver trimmed side marker lenses.  Strange
that BL would retain the trim on the side markers while eliminating it on
the turn signals.

Dave




Jay Snable <jsnable at mac.com> wrote on 12/31/2008 01:01:39 PM:

> Hi Dave,
>
> My '73 has the silver trim on the side markers (well, sort of silver
> at this point...), and plain turn signal lenses.
>
> Jay
> '73 TR6
>
> On Tuesday, December 30, 2008, at 04:24PM, "David B Johnson"
> <dbjohnso at us.ibm.com> wrote:
> >Hello gang,
> >
> >I pulled all my lights/lenses/bulbs out of storage today for some
sprucing
> >up before reinstalling them on my '73.  My front side markers on each
front
> >fender have silver trim around the edge that I hadn't noticed when I
tore
> >it down a several years ago.  I know that the turn signal lenses for the
> >'73's did not have the silver trim as the earlier  models did and mine
are
> >correct in this respect, but I don't recall seeing any postings
addressing
> >the side marker lenses, whether or not they retained the silver trim for
> >the '73 model year.  Both of my fenders were replaced at some point
before
> >I took ownership so it's entirely possible the lenses are not original
and
> >the incorrect version was installed.  Can anyone with original 1973 side
> >marker lenses confirm the silver trim vs no silver trim question for me?
> >
> >Thanks
> >
> >Dave

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Jan  2 07:45:04 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 2 Jan 2009 14:45:04 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Front Side Markers - '73
References: <OFC5D419C7.C2E56A6B-ON85257531.006014E6-85257531.0060E74B@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <B0A1A83E6A594D99A143BDA6579B0376@Bevan>

Dave Johnson wrote:
>Strange
> that BL would retain the trim on the side markers while eliminating it on
> the turn signals.

If you think that's strange, Dave - you should have seen some of the other things BL did at the 
time - both before and after '73!

Jonmac 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Jan  3 06:37:54 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 08:37:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Torque Wrench Dilemma
Message-ID: <F7B4E5C8E1E941F182201112C4C6A214@BOBSNEWPC>

Oh math/physics/engineer gurus..........Here's my question.... 

Goodparts CVJs specify that the 1-1/4" axle nut be torqued to 220-250 lbs.
My audible click-type torque wrench maxes out at 150 lbs. 

It's been suggested that 160 lb me standing on the end of an 18" breaker bar
would exert about that torque. I like this idea.

Richard Good told me that setting the wrench at 125 lbs and putting a 24"
pipe over it would yield about the right force.

Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 &
http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but where does the
extension go? Between the nut and the drive end of the wrench or can you
just slide a pipe over the wrench handle to extend it?

I've also heard that most shops would just hit it with their impact wrench
and call it a day.

These are CVJs and the 1-1/4" nut is an all steel grade 8 locking nut.

So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a $200 torque
wrench is not the answer though I may just rent one if necessary.

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Jan  3 07:07:33 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 09:07:33 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Torque Wrench Dilemma
Message-ID: <c7a.4bbae3c6.3690cb25@aol.com>

That was my same thought.  You can make the handle 6' long if you want  and 
when it gets to 150 lbs, it is going to click.  There is no indication  that 
you have gotten to 250 lbs or whatever it is you are looking for.  Are  you 
suggesting that you apply a 160 lb you on the end of the 18" bar until  the nut 
won't turn anymore?  I think that is what you are saying.  Why  risk buggering 
up your torque wrench?  Just use a 1/2" drive breaker bar  with a pipe over the 
end if that's where we are going.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Stay up-to-date on the latest news - from fashion trends to 
celebrity break-ups and everything in between. 
(http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000024)

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Sat Jan  3 07:37:18 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Sat, 3 Jan 2009 06:37:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale
Message-ID: <912702.23734.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

need to generate some cash i have a 76 tr6 red clear title rebuilt almost everything needs a new dash int panels and a paint job no rust frame is good and a new top put in a ansa exhaust rebuilt the head removed all emissions what do you guys think is a good asking price i'm in the ny area 

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Jan  3 15:09:32 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 14:09:32 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 heat '70
References: <F7B4E5C8E1E941F182201112C4C6A214@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <008201c96def$f4c9d890$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello List,
Happy and Healthy New Year to all.
It is cold and getting colder.
My question regards correct operation of the heater specifically the air
distribution control on a '70 TR6.
Control pulled one click for defrost I get warm air to windshield.
Pulled 2 clicks for heat and defrost I get warm air to windshield and bottom
heater vent
Knob not pulled out what should happen?
Outside Air flap near windshield should do what open or closed?
Dash vents always have cold outside air is this correct?
I have a 180 degree thermostat and seem to remember I had a lot more heat in
my TR250 when used as an everyday driver.
Anyone in the North using a 195 degree thermostat in winter?
Regards,
Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11460
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Jan  3 15:45:56 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 03 Jan 2009 22:45:56 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 heat '70
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV13712F755AB21CCB23EBBEF4E30@phx.gbl>

Bob---This is the way I think the early six, with a closeable cowl vent, heat/air distribution should work:

First, you are correct in where the warm air should go, when the control knob is pulled part way, and fully out.

On the early cars, with an outside air control flap on the cowl, it is necessary for this to be in an open position to get air to circulate thru the heater core. When this flap is closed, you will only be able to recirculate cabin air with the heater fan, which won't be as effective.

The "EYEBALL" vents, when working properly (felt seals in place) will allow the air to be directed to where you want it,

If the outside flap is closed, and these eyeball vents are closed, NO air should be moving about. 

For hot water to circulate thru the heater core, the water control valve must be at least part way open. If full cable movement of this slide valve isn't possible, give the nod to being able to completely close it, rather than completely open it

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob
Sent: Saturday, January 3, 2009 2:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 heat '70

Hello List,
Happy and Healthy New Year to all.
It is cold and getting colder.
My question regards correct operation of the heater specifically the air
distribution control on a '70 TR6.
Control pulled one click for defrost I get warm air to windshield.
Pulled 2 clicks for heat and defrost I get warm air to windshield and bottom
heater vent
Knob not pulled out what should happen?
Outside Air flap near windshield should do what open or closed?
Dash vents always have cold outside air is this correct?
I have a 180 degree thermostat and seem to remember I had a lot more heat in
my TR250 when used as an everyday driver.
Anyone in the North using a 195 degree thermostat in winter?
Regards,
Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11460
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Sun Jan  4 06:44:53 2009
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 08:44:53 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
Message-ID: <C93027EE-2E7F-4A63-86E6-EA679BB9CB5D@nc.rr.com>

About 6-kmi after re-installing the engine, the damper/crank pulley  
has decided to mate itself with he tubular front crossmember. Now I  
know they've been close before, but hard contact kind of interferes  
with the engine's ability to, you know... turn over.

The xmission rear mount looks fine, but it's possible the engine has  
moved slightly in the engine mounts. It appears as though the xmission  
mount is the only thing offering real fwd/aft control.

Before i start messing about, does anyone have any experience with  
this problem?

Doug Morris, NC
'74 CF18xxxOU

From shannm2 at triad.rr.com  Sun Jan  4 09:33:41 2009
From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 11:33:41 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
In-Reply-To: <C93027EE-2E7F-4A63-86E6-EA679BB9CB5D@nc.rr.com>
References: <C93027EE-2E7F-4A63-86E6-EA679BB9CB5D@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <001501c96e8a$3424a9d0$9c6dfd70$@rr.com>

Relatively easy fix;  The motor mounts are adjustable to the front and back
of the car.  You need to loosen them (including the rear trans mount) and
slide the engine to the rear of the car.  You'll have about a 1/2 inch of
movement rearward.

-Shannon

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Douglas Morris
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 8:45 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember

About 6-kmi after re-installing the engine, the damper/crank pulley  
has decided to mate itself with he tubular front crossmember. Now I  
know they've been close before, but hard contact kind of interferes  
with the engine's ability to, you know... turn over.

The xmission rear mount looks fine, but it's possible the engine has  
moved slightly in the engine mounts. It appears as though the xmission  
mount is the only thing offering real fwd/aft control.

Before i start messing about, does anyone have any experience with  
this problem?
 

__________ Information from ESET Smart Security, version of virus signature
database 3735 (20090104) __________

The message was checked by ESET Smart Security.

http://www.eset.com

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Sun Jan  4 13:52:18 2009
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 15:52:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tools
Message-ID: <4A292D0D79324E3D8894A6454455C042@randyPC>

listers,



HE WHO DIES /C the most tools does not win


HE IS DEAD!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
randy sandner
now in upstate ny

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun Jan  4 15:34:44 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 22:34:44 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale
In-Reply-To: <912702.23734.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <912702.23734.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E3EA3342@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

John Doe, its hard to asses a value without more info so I would suggest
looking on ebay etc and find comparable cars and see what they sold for. There
is a spectrum from $1000 to $12000 with most complete cars in drive away
condition generally in the $6k to $12k range and viable projects typically in
the $3k to $5k range but obviously the condition and the parts that accompany
it will make the value vary tremendously. OD, factory hardtop and rebuilt 180
HP engine will be worth more than a knackered 4 speed, engine in boxes and
seats that need a rebuild.


Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of john doe
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 9:37 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale

need to generate some cash i have a 76 tr6 red clear title rebuilt almost
everything needs a new dash int panels and a paint job no rust frame is good
and a new top put in a ansa exhaust rebuilt the head removed all emissions
what do you guys think is a good asking price i'm in the ny area

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sun Jan  4 17:29:36 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 17:29:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Torque Wrench Dilemma
References: <F7B4E5C8E1E941F182201112C4C6A214@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <08B3758C1E3743F097F3E7C4276C49AD@rolofson>

Bob,

Here's how I got to my comfort level with tightening the nut on my CV axle/hub
setup.  I also have a 150 limit on my torque wrench so I tightened the nuts up
to that limit and tried to calibrate my mind and muscle memory so that when I
reached the torque wrench's limit and put a breaker bar on the socket I could
give it a little more twist that I "felt" like was closer to the 220 ft/lbs.
It was maybe half a flat more.  Basically I did it with "feel"....and finding
my center, to do the torque.  It also helps to know that you're going to bend
the lip of the nut onto the flat part of the shaft as a safety for keeping
that nut from moving....I guess that will hold it...something a little more
high tech might have been nice though.   That's how I dealt with not having a
bigger torque wrench.  No problems for the couple thousand miles I've put on
so far.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 6:37 AM
  Subject: [6pack] Torque Wrench Dilemma


  Oh math/physics/engineer gurus..........Here's my question....

  Goodparts CVJs specify that the 1-1/4" axle nut be torqued to 220-250 lbs.
  My audible click-type torque wrench maxes out at 150 lbs.

  It's been suggested that 160 lb me standing on the end of an 18" breaker
bar
  would exert about that torque. I like this idea.

  Richard Good told me that setting the wrench at 125 lbs and putting a 24"
  pipe over it would yield about the right force.

  Then I found these two formulas http://tinyurl.com/97faw7 &
  http://tinyurl.com/774vwv which appear to work math-wise but where does the
  extension go? Between the nut and the drive end of the wrench or can you
  just slide a pipe over the wrench handle to extend it?

  I've also heard that most shops would just hit it with their impact wrench
  and call it a day.

  These are CVJs and the 1-1/4" nut is an all steel grade 8 locking nut.

  So....what's the best way to accomplish this....and buying a $200 torque
  wrench is not the answer though I may just rent one if necessary.

  Thanks

  Bob

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jan  4 20:34:12 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 22:34:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Torque Wrench
Message-ID: <2F9AC665D14F41E689D75658D58A872D@BOBSNEWPC>

Well guys...... I won the eBay wrench that Randall had posted
yesterday........$35 delivered.  I also had a very nice offer from a List
Member to ship me his wrench and a 1-1/4" socket to use. 
 
I've done the whole test fit of the CVJs and there's no interference or
rubbing with the TAs so I'll probably warp this project up this week.
 
Thanks
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
 



----------------------------------------------------------------------------
----
From: levilevi [mailto:levilevi at comcast.net] 
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 7:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; Bob Danielson
Subject: Re: [6pack] Torque Wrench Dilemma


Bob,
 
Here's how I got to my comfort level with tightening the nut on my CV
axle/hub setup.  I also have a 150 limit on my torque wrench so I tightened
the nuts up to that limit and tried to calibrate my mind and muscle memory
so that when I reached the torque wrench's limit and put a breaker bar on
the socket I could give it a little more twist that I "felt" like was closer
to the 220 ft/lbs.  It was maybe half a flat more.  Basically I did it with
"feel"....and finding my center, to do the torque.  It also helps to know
that you're going to bend the lip of the nut onto the flat part of the shaft
as a safety for keeping that nut from moving....I guess that will hold
it...something a little more high tech might have been nice though.   That's
how I dealt with not having a bigger torque wrench.  No problems for the
couple thousand miles I've put on so far.
 
Bud Rolofson
 
71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Sun Jan  4 21:09:00 2009
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 20:09:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale
In-Reply-To: <912702.23734.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <710724.87211.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Most of us would need to know more than that "John". That's not enough
information for a reasonable assessment. Condition is the biggest factor
affecting the value. Cars with needs can languish for months with a $5000
asking price. There are far fewer buyers looking for projects. Those that are
generally drive a hard bargain. Removal of emissions equipment will probably
make the car less valuable and it really does little to hinder performance.

$.02.
Jim
--- On Sat, 1/3/09, john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Saturday, January 3, 2009, 8:37 AM

need to generate some cash i have a 76 tr6 red clear title rebuilt almost
everything needs a new dash int panels and a paint job no rust frame is good
and
a new top put in a ansa exhaust rebuilt the head removed all emissions what
do
you guys think is a good asking price i'm in the ny area
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sun Jan  4 21:59:53 2009
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 18:59:53 -1000
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
References: <C93027EE-2E7F-4A63-86E6-EA679BB9CB5D@nc.rr.com>
	<001501c96e8a$3424a9d0$9c6dfd70$@rr.com>
Message-ID: <54B2D2DB15AC43B48CFE0848559FC487@PamHome>

Shannon,

I'm confused (this happens often).  The engine, tranny and drive shaft are 
all fixed lengths?  If they are all connected to the diff, how can you move 
it forward or backward?

Confused in Kailua (it may be too many Mai Tais)

Mark
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shannon Muncy" <shannm2 at triad.rr.com>
To: "'Douglas Morris'" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 6:33 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember


> Relatively easy fix;  The motor mounts are adjustable to the front and 
> back
> of the car.  You need to loosen them (including the rear trans mount) and
> slide the engine to the rear of the car.  You'll have about a 1/2 inch of
> movement rearward.
>
> -Shannon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Douglas Morris
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 8:45 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
>
> About 6-kmi after re-installing the engine, the damper/crank pulley
> has decided to mate itself with he tubular front crossmember. Now I
> know they've been close before, but hard contact kind of interferes
> with the engine's ability to, you know... turn over.
>
> The xmission rear mount looks fine, but it's possible the engine has
> moved slightly in the engine mounts. It appears as though the xmission
> mount is the only thing offering real fwd/aft control.
>
> Before i start messing about, does anyone have any experience with
> this problem?

From triosan at gmail.com  Sun Jan  4 22:03:16 2009
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sun, 4 Jan 2009 21:03:16 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
In-Reply-To: <54B2D2DB15AC43B48CFE0848559FC487@PamHome>
References: <C93027EE-2E7F-4A63-86E6-EA679BB9CB5D@nc.rr.com>
	<001501c96e8a$3424a9d0$9c6dfd70$@rr.com>
	<54B2D2DB15AC43B48CFE0848559FC487@PamHome>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0901042103n7d025225m4ecd5603dee14c8a@mail.gmail.com>

Drive shaft is not a fixed length!

On Sun, Jan 4, 2009 at 8:59 PM, Mark <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com> wrote:

> Shannon,
>
> I'm confused (this happens often).  The engine, tranny and drive shaft are
> all fixed lengths?  If they are all connected to the diff, how can you move
> it forward or backward?
>
> Confused in Kailua (it may be too many Mai Tais)
>
> Mark
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shannon Muncy" <shannm2 at triad.rr.com>
> To: "'Douglas Morris'" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 6:33 AM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
>
>
>  Relatively easy fix;  The motor mounts are adjustable to the front and
>> back
>> of the car.  You need to loosen them (including the rear trans mount) and
>> slide the engine to the rear of the car.  You'll have about a 1/2 inch of
>> movement rearward.
>>
>> -Shannon
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
>> On
>> Behalf Of Douglas Morris
>> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 8:45 AM
>> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>> Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
>>
>> About 6-kmi after re-installing the engine, the damper/crank pulley
>> has decided to mate itself with he tubular front crossmember. Now I
>> know they've been close before, but hard contact kind of interferes
>> with the engine's ability to, you know... turn over.
>>
>> The xmission rear mount looks fine, but it's possible the engine has
>> moved slightly in the engine mounts. It appears as though the xmission
>> mount is the only thing offering real fwd/aft control.
>>
>> Before i start messing about, does anyone have any experience with
>> this problem?
>>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Jan  5 06:51:07 2009
From: lfm614 at aol.com ( )
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 13:51:07 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Crank dimension
Message-ID: <430878120-1231163396-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-463308063-@bxe179.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Hello List,

I am looking for the thickness (fore to aft) dimension of the crank area or ring that contacts the rear thrust washer. It is for a 72 (short crank). Any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks,

Lou 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jan  5 07:19:07 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 09:19:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
In-Reply-To: <54B2D2DB15AC43B48CFE0848559FC487@PamHome>
References: <C93027EE-2E7F-4A63-86E6-EA679BB9CB5D@nc.rr.com><001501c96e8a$3424a9d0$9c6dfd70$@rr.com>
	<54B2D2DB15AC43B48CFE0848559FC487@PamHome>
Message-ID: <BD2FBA8319B64FBB917097DB79958DF1@BOBSNEWPC>

Mark,
The free play comes from the slotted motor mounts and then the drive shaft
has a splined slip. Plus over time the motor mounts "collapse/settle" so new
mounts help to "lift" the engine. When I reinstalled my engine & tranny last
winter, I installed new mounts and set everything back as far as I could.
Now I can easily slip my fan belt on and off the car.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 12:00 AM
To: Shannon Muncy; 'Douglas Morris'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember

Shannon,

I'm confused (this happens often).  The engine, tranny and drive shaft are
all fixed lengths?  If they are all connected to the diff, how can you move
it forward or backward?

Confused in Kailua (it may be too many Mai Tais)

Mark
----- Original Message -----
From: "Shannon Muncy" <shannm2 at triad.rr.com>
To: "'Douglas Morris'" <dcmdcm at nc.rr.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 6:33 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember


> Relatively easy fix;  The motor mounts are adjustable to the front and 
> back
> of the car.  You need to loosen them (including the rear trans mount) and
> slide the engine to the rear of the car.  You'll have about a 1/2 inch of
> movement rearward.
>
> -Shannon
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of Douglas Morris
> Sent: Sunday, January 04, 2009 8:45 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
>
> About 6-kmi after re-installing the engine, the damper/crank pulley
> has decided to mate itself with he tubular front crossmember. Now I
> know they've been close before, but hard contact kind of interferes
> with the engine's ability to, you know... turn over.
>
> The xmission rear mount looks fine, but it's possible the engine has
> moved slightly in the engine mounts. It appears as though the xmission
> mount is the only thing offering real fwd/aft control.
>
> Before i start messing about, does anyone have any experience with
> this problem?
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jan  5 08:24:12 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 07:24:12 -0800
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale
In-Reply-To: <912702.23734.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <912702.23734.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BBBBE74@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	John:

	I always recommend that people use eBay. Select the "completed auctions"
option, and look at the TR6s. Be sure to view the TR6s that actually sold, not
ones that had bids but failed to meet the reserve.
	Compare the results to your car, and you can get a rough idea. Remember
though that condition is everything. Mileage has little impact on the price.
An totally original car, or a car restored to original condition, is usually
worth a bit more too.
	If you sold it yourself and were patient, you could get more for it that you
can on eBay. I think of eBay as the "quick sale" price. In my experience, an
unrestored rough car (but drivable) is worth $4-6k, a totally unrestored all
original TR6 in pristine condition is worth about $16-18k. If the car is not
drivable, price can go as low as $500 for a parts car.
	An unassembled or partially assembled car will always be worth far less than
an assembled car. Few people are interested in picking up a project where the
previous owner left off. So it would behoove you to complete the assembly of
the car.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of john doe
Sent: Saturday, January 03, 2009 6:37 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale

need to generate some cash i have a 76 tr6 red clear title rebuilt almost
everything needs a new dash int panels and a paint job no rust frame is good
and a new top put in a ansa exhaust rebuilt the head removed all emissions
what do you guys think is a good asking price i'm in the ny area
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From dcmdcm at nc.rr.com  Mon Jan  5 17:42:54 2009
From: dcmdcm at nc.rr.com (Douglas Morris)
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 19:42:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
Message-ID: <F8A31DA2-7584-4FDC-B1A6-F4808C944067@nc.rr.com>

Thanks for the responses.
Yes, the engine had slipped forward in the mount's slotted holes.
I levered it back, and it looks like 1/2" clearance, now.
I must not'a had the nuts f-f-f-fully tight.

Either that or the brake job and new tires work really, really well.

Doug Morris, NC

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Jan  5 23:07:45 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:07:45 -0700
Subject: [6pack] test test
Message-ID: <D1A008C19F7D43EBA92BE7ABD24A20D6@rolofson>

Blank

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Jan  5 23:15:57 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:15:57 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] test test test
References: <D1A008C19F7D43EBA92BE7ABD24A20D6@rolofson>
Message-ID: <A083E6BB057B43B9AF0973E0D6B1144E@rolofson>


From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Jan  5 23:22:44 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 5 Jan 2009 23:22:44 -0700
Subject: [6pack] testt
Message-ID: <36CF70D617B1477EBE9E833092FEB32E@rolofson>

Blank

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Tue Jan  6 06:31:28 2009
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 08:31:28 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lord forgive me, an MGA question
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40901060531h1cc71edg95169fc80c73458f@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry for going off topic, but I'll be joining a buddy this Saturday
as he looks at an MGA he is interested in (I'll be praying for his
soul come Sunday).  I know there are some heathens on the list that
own MGs, so if you wouldn't mind zipping me a message off-list, I'd be
interested in any items to look out for beyond the normal old British
car concerns.  In other words, are there any unique MGA issues to look
out for?  Thanks!

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jan  6 08:17:49 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 07:17:49 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
In-Reply-To: <F8A31DA2-7584-4FDC-B1A6-F4808C944067@nc.rr.com>
References: <F8A31DA2-7584-4FDC-B1A6-F4808C944067@nc.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BBBC50D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Doug:

	You said: "Either that or the brake job and new tires work really, really
well."

	LOL. Please send me the type of tire and where you had the brake job done.

	=:-o

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Douglas Morris
Sent: Monday, January 05, 2009 4:43 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember

Thanks for the responses.
Yes, the engine had slipped forward in the mount's slotted holes.
I levered it back, and it looks like 1/2" clearance, now.
I must not'a had the nuts f-f-f-fully tight.

Either that or the brake job and new tires work really, really well.

Doug Morris, NC

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jan  6 08:35:32 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 10:35:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Crank pulley rubbing on crossmember
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BBBC50D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <F8A31DA2-7584-4FDC-B1A6-F4808C944067@nc.rr.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BBBC50D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901061034150.8092@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009, Navarrette, Vance wrote:

> 	Doug:
>
> 	You said: "Either that or the brake job and new tires work really, really
> well."
>
> 	LOL. Please send me the type of tire and where you had the brake job done.


Hoosier 23x9x15 slicks.

Yee ha!

> 	=:-o
>
> 	Vance

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From bratt at sasktel.net  Tue Jan  6 09:48:11 2009
From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed)
Date: Tue, 06 Jan 2009 10:48:11 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Lord forgive me, an MGA question
References: <d8ff30d40901060531h1cc71edg95169fc80c73458f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <002101c9701e$8fa206a0$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd>

John:


There is probably nothing unusual to look for.  Rust, of course, is 
sometimes found in the usual places inside the front of the rear fenders, 
and the doglegs.  You could check the real floorboards for wood rot.

 There are a few items for which it is almost impossible to find 
replacements.  The only one which comes immediately to mind is the turn 
signal indicator switch.

 If you really awfully badly want to get him away from the MGA, we could set 
up a swap for my 1976 TR6.  I used to have an MGA, and I miss it.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John VanNorman" <jsvannorman at gmail.com>
To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:31 AM
Subject: [6pack] Lord forgive me, an MGA question

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Tue Jan  6 10:18:23 2009
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 12:18:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lord forgive me, an MGA question
In-Reply-To: <002101c9701e$8fa206a0$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd>
References: <d8ff30d40901060531h1cc71edg95169fc80c73458f@mail.gmail.com>
	<002101c9701e$8fa206a0$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd>
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40901060918n10a79f1ep538fcd38296fe40c@mail.gmail.com>

Thanks guys!  I'm going to take everything everyone  said and put
together a check list to take with us.

The interesting thing will be whether he fits inside it.  He is like
me, rather tall (I'm 6 foot 5 and I think my buddy is 6 foot 4 or so)
and I know what a close fit it is for me to fit in my 6 even after the
changes I made.

John V.

1974 1/2 TR6

On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 11:48 AM, ed <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
> John:
>
>
> There is probably nothing unusual to look for.  Rust, of course, is
> sometimes found in the usual places inside the front of the rear fenders,
> and the doglegs.  You could check the real floorboards for wood rot.
>
> There are a few items for which it is almost impossible to find
> replacements.  The only one which comes immediately to mind is the turn
> signal indicator switch.
>
> If you really awfully badly want to get him away from the MGA, we could set
> up a swap for my 1976 TR6.  I used to have an MGA, and I miss it.
>
> Ed Bratt
> Regina, Saskatchewan
> 1976 TR6
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John VanNorman" <jsvannorman at gmail.com>
> To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:31 AM
> Subject: [6pack] Lord forgive me, an MGA question

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Tue Jan  6 13:29:22 2009
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 15:29:22 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question
Message-ID: <6F05CC0D49A541DA8942C94C26A1A4CE@TRGUY>

Team:

There is a kit that allows you to remove the front hub (fan connects to it)
that connects to the harmonic dampener if using an electric fan.  The kit
includes a new bolt and small round "whosey watchit" to attach to the harmonic
dampener. Is the front hub needed for additional dampening or is it ok to
remove and install this kit?  I had heard that the extra hub was needed to
help dampen the crank.  My engine is tweaked but I never balanced the crank.

Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
75 TR6 CF35914U

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jan  6 15:13:40 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 17:13:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question
In-Reply-To: <6F05CC0D49A541DA8942C94C26A1A4CE@TRGUY>
References: <6F05CC0D49A541DA8942C94C26A1A4CE@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <69D80FB1F1E94DA7B2C7C091012CD1AF@BOBSNEWPC>

Jim,
Are you talking about Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit
(http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanEliminator.htm) 

If so, I installed his kit a few years ago
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Fan_Eliminator.htm) and it's a great way to
remove 6 pounds 6 ounces of rotating mass and replace it with just 8 ounces.
As a result you should also see a slight horsepower increase.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James Henningsen
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:29 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question

Team:

There is a kit that allows you to remove the front hub (fan connects to it)
that connects to the harmonic dampener if using an electric fan.  The kit
includes a new bolt and small round "whosey watchit" to attach to the
harmonic dampener. Is the front hub needed for additional dampening or is it
ok to remove and install this kit?  I had heard that the extra hub was
needed to help dampen the crank.  My engine is tweaked but I never balanced
the crank.

Thanks in advance,
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
75 TR6 CF35914U
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Jan  6 17:00:53 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:00:53 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question
In-Reply-To: <6F05CC0D49A541DA8942C94C26A1A4CE@TRGUY>
References: <6F05CC0D49A541DA8942C94C26A1A4CE@TRGUY>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901061856350.8092@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 6 Jan 2009, James Henningsen wrote:

> Team:
>
> There is a kit that allows you to remove the front hub (fan connects to it)
> that connects to the harmonic dampener if using an electric fan.  The kit
> includes a new bolt and small round "whosey watchit" to attach to the harmonic
> dampener. Is the front hub needed for additional dampening or is it ok to
> remove and install this kit?  I had heard that the extra hub was needed to
> help dampen the crank.  My engine is tweaked but I never balanced the crank.

You don't need the weight of the fan extension. In fact, that weight is 
not damped, it's connected to the crank (as opposed to the actual 
dampening which is done by the outer ring of the stock dampener.

The power increase the the other Bob refers to is really realized loss of 
parasitic drag from the mechanical fan (which can be as much as 8 HP - BIG 
GAINS FOR LITTLE OR NO $$$).

About the only possible issue with the crank extension eliminator is 
something that you might see if you turn your motor to big revs (like 
above 6000). I've seen the issue and can discuss off list. Interestingly, 
if you turn your motor to 6k+, you should be looking at a higher 
performance aftermarket dampener anyway (unless you're cheap, like me).

:-)

> Thanks in advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 75 TR6 CF35914U

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Tue Jan  6 17:11:34 2009
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:11:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question
In-Reply-To: <69D80FB1F1E94DA7B2C7C091012CD1AF@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <6F05CC0D49A541DA8942C94C26A1A4CE@TRGUY>
	<69D80FB1F1E94DA7B2C7C091012CD1AF@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <9ECB30D944F542B88D17F587CCC200CE@TRGUY>

Bob and everyone else who responded.  Thank you for your responses!  Seems 
like everyone has been ok removing the crank extension (between fan blade 
and harmonic dampener).  I do have Rick Patton's kit and was curious before 
installing.
All the best,
Jim Henningsen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'James Henningsen'" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 5:13 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question


> Jim,
> Are you talking about Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit
> (http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanEliminator.htm)
>
> If so, I installed his kit a few years ago
> (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Fan_Eliminator.htm) and it's a great way 
> to
> remove 6 pounds 6 ounces of rotating mass and replace it with just 8 
> ounces.
> As a result you should also see a slight horsepower increase.
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of James Henningsen
> Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 3:29 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question
>
> Team:
>
> There is a kit that allows you to remove the front hub (fan connects to 
> it)
> that connects to the harmonic dampener if using an electric fan.  The kit
> includes a new bolt and small round "whosey watchit" to attach to the
> harmonic dampener. Is the front hub needed for additional dampening or is 
> it
> ok to remove and install this kit?  I had heard that the extra hub was
> needed to help dampen the crank.  My engine is tweaked but I never 
> balanced
> the crank.
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Jim Henningsen
> Maitland, FL
> 75 TR6 CF35914U
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Tue Jan  6 17:59:40 2009
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 6 Jan 2009 19:59:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901061856350.8092@isis.mit.edu>
References: <6F05CC0D49A541DA8942C94C26A1A4CE@TRGUY>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901061856350.8092@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <F226008BB76840AFA9586CBB7344780C@TRGUY>

Bob:
Thanks for the input!  Definitely not hitting the 6k revs, although I'd like 
to be able to :) 5300 max for me with current engine.  Looks like I will be 
pulling the extension , installing my new Spal super slim electric puller 
fan, and installing Rick Patten's extension eliminator kit.
Jim Henningsen

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
To: "James Henningsen" <trguy at cfl.rr.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:00 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine Front Damper Question


> On Tue, 6 Jan 2009, James Henningsen wrote:
>
>> Team:
>>
>> There is a kit that allows you to remove the front hub (fan connects to 
>> it)
>> that connects to the harmonic dampener if using an electric fan.  The kit
>> includes a new bolt and small round "whosey watchit" to attach to the 
>> harmonic
>> dampener. Is the front hub needed for additional dampening or is it ok to
>> remove and install this kit?  I had heard that the extra hub was needed 
>> to
>> help dampen the crank.  My engine is tweaked but I never balanced the 
>> crank.
>
> You don't need the weight of the fan extension. In fact, that weight is 
> not damped, it's connected to the crank (as opposed to the actual 
> dampening which is done by the outer ring of the stock dampener.
>
> The power increase the the other Bob refers to is really realized loss of 
> parasitic drag from the mechanical fan (which can be as much as 8 HP - BIG 
> GAINS FOR LITTLE OR NO $$$).
>
> About the only possible issue with the crank extension eliminator is 
> something that you might see if you turn your motor to big revs (like 
> above 6000). I've seen the issue and can discuss off list. Interestingly, 
> if you turn your motor to 6k+, you should be looking at a higher 
> performance aftermarket dampener anyway (unless you're cheap, like me).
>
> :-)
>
>> Thanks in advance,
>> Jim Henningsen
>> Maitland, FL
>> 75 TR6 CF35914U
>
> regards,
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Wed Jan  7 08:24:16 2009
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:24:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>

What is the preference for an electric cooling fan? Pusher or Puller?
As a Pusher, there seems to be easier mounting points in front of the
rad, but the fan and housing will reduce the free flow of air to the
rad.
As a Puller the free air flow is better but mounting is less
convenient and the mechanical fan extension must be replaced.

I would appreciate comments and opinions, thank oyu,

Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Jan  7 08:34:31 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 07:34:31 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BBBCB89@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Henri:

	Another lister straightened me out on this item. The fan is more efficient as
a puller for the reasons you mention. I forget the URL, but one of the big
electric fan vendors mentions on their web site that a puller will deliver
slightly better cooling. It seems like the difference may be on the order of
15%, but since I am one step away from adult diapers, I can hardly trust my
memory.
	You are correct, the mounting is much simpler on the TR6 if you go with a
pusher. I suppose upsizing your fan by 15% and using the pusher mounting would
keep things simple. BTW, speaking from experience, sweating a thermostat
fitting on your radiator is very easy so don't be afraid to give it a whirl. A
propane torch, plumbers solder and flux is all you need to do a professional
job. I put one on the mini, and it works great and looks professional. I
needed all the power I could get on the mini, and an electric fan is a great
way to free up a couple of hamsters to push the car instead of push air
around. Now if only they were horses instead of hamsters...<sigh>

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 7:24 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

What is the preference for an electric cooling fan? Pusher or Puller?
As a Pusher, there seems to be easier mounting points in front of the
rad, but the fan and housing will reduce the free flow of air to the
rad.
As a Puller the free air flow is better but mounting is less
convenient and the mechanical fan extension must be replaced.

I would appreciate comments and opinions, thank oyu,

Henri
75 TR6, triple webers

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Wed Jan  7 09:26:41 2009
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 16:26:41 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>

Is there an easy, reliable way to wire the system to let a person know if the
fan has quit running? Without a mechanical fan, an electric only set-up could
cost a lot of money and cause heartache.> Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:24:16
-0700> From: 75teer6 at gmail.com> To: 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack]
Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?> > What is the preference for an
electric cooling fan? Pusher or Puller?> As a Pusher, there seems to be easier
mounting points in front of the> rad, but the fan and housing will reduce the
free flow of air to the> rad.> As a Puller the free air flow is better but
mounting is less> convenient and the mechanical fan extension must be
replaced.> > I would appreciate comments and opinions, thank oyu,> > Henri> 75
TR6, triple webers> _______________________________________________> > Support
Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as slbridge at hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Windows LiveTM: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_012009

From Lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Jan  7 09:34:01 2009
From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 11:34:01 EST
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
Message-ID: <bd0.460c9e8b.36963379@aol.com>

Reliably? 
 
You could wire an LED or pilot light in series with the motor, this would  
tell you when it is running, not off.  This would detect open circuits and  
motor failures if it is not a short.......of course there is always the  
temperature gauge or you could use a hi temp idiot light on the dash set  slightly 
above normal operating temp
 
Lou
 
 
In a message dated 1/7/2009 10:27:47 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
slbridge at hotmail.com writes:

Is there  an easy, reliable way to wire the system to let a person know if the
fan  has quit running? Without a mechanical fan, an electric only set-up  
could
cost a lot of money and cause heartache.> Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009  08:24:16
-0700> From: 75teer6 at gmail.com> To: 6pack at autox.team.net>  Subject: [6pack]
Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?> > What is  the preference for an
electric cooling fan? Pusher or Puller?> As a  Pusher, there seems to be 
easier
mounting points in front of the> rad,  but the fan and housing will reduce the
free flow of air to the>  rad.> As a Puller the free air flow is better but
mounting is less>  convenient and the mechanical fan extension must be
replaced.> > I  would appreciate comments and opinions, thank oyu,> > Henri>  
75
TR6, triple webers>  _______________________________________________> >  
Support
Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html> >  6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack>  > http://www.team.net/archive> 
>
You are subscribed as  slbridge at hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Windows  LiveTM: Keep your life in  sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_012009
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  lfm614 at aol.com


**************New year...new news.  Be the first to know what is making 
headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026)

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Jan  7 09:33:43 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 16:33:43 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E3EA397E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Hmm. There is probably a theoretical way to detect if the fan is turning and
moving air but I've never seen an implementation of it. I think most of us
assume that if the fan has power it will run and if it fails it will fail
gracefully and let us know. We typically use a lamp to tell us if the fan is
energized and the temp gauge to tell us if we are being adequately cooled.. If
the car is stationary I know when the fan kicks in because I can hear it and
it moves so much air I can feel it in the cockpit.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of steve bridge
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 11:27 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

Is there an easy, reliable way to wire the system to let a person know if the
fan has quit running? Without a mechanical fan, an electric only set-up could
cost a lot of money and cause heartache.> Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 08:24:16
-0700> From: 75teer6 at gmail.com> To: 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack]
Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?> > What is the preference for an
electric cooling fan? Pusher or Puller?> As a Pusher, there seems to be
easier
mounting points in front of the> rad, but the fan and housing will reduce the
free flow of air to the> rad.> As a Puller the free air flow is better but
mounting is less> convenient and the mechanical fan extension must be
replaced.> > I would appreciate comments and opinions, thank oyu,> > Henri>
75
TR6, triple webers> _______________________________________________> >
Support
Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive>
>
You are subscribed as slbridge at hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Windows LiveTM: Keep your life in sync.
http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_012009
_______________________________________________

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed Jan  7 10:07:49 2009
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 09:07:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Damper/fan discussion
Message-ID: <922414.96529.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have been running Rick Patton's fan eliminator kit (along with his TBI) for
about 3 years without any problems.  The kit was easy to install and I think I
got a little more power by eliminating the mechanical fan.  I'm using an
electric pusher fan which is a little smaller in diameter than I would like
(sorry I don't recall the diameter-same problem as Vance) and it has worked
fine.  I have a 9.8 to 1 compression ratio GP2 cam and other stuff that
probably increase the motor heat.  Since I'm in Florida where it gets ugly in
the summer heat wise I doubt that the minimal reduction in air flow due to the
placement of the fan will be an issue.  I used the thermostat provided with
the electric fan and just placed it externally at  the bottom of the radiator.
Once I got the right temperature dialed in to the rheostat it has worked
without any problems.  I have found that you can hear the fan running when you
are stopped and when you are moving
 it is usually irrelevant.   If I was going to re-do the wiring for the fan I
would probably put an off on switch into the circuit just for a little extra
insurance.  I also put the fan circuit on a relay with the electric supply
taken directly off of the output from the alternator (70 amp Mazda) to ensure
that the wires weren't overloaded.  Works for me.
 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jan  7 10:11:11 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 12:11:11 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901071141150.9818@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 7 Jan 2009, steve bridge wrote:

> Is there an easy, reliable way to wire the system to let a person know if the
> fan has quit running? Without a mechanical fan, an electric only set-up could
> cost a lot of money and cause heartache.

There's a couple of ways to know the fan is running (or not).

First is the temp guage. That should be pretty obvious.

But there are shcematics "out there" on the internet that show how to wire 
in an indicator lamp for your fan that illuminates when the fan is running 
(or not, depending on how you wire it).

In contrast to your comment that an electric setup could cost a lot of $$$ 
and cause heartache, I'd say that roughly 8 HP gain for $200 is CHEAP. 
There really is no downside to the conversion other than the time it takes 
to install (a real mechaincal novice could do a fan installation in a 
couple of hours plus or minus, maybe longer if the radiator has never been 
out of the car).

But back to the point if your cooling system fails for any reason, there's 
usually a lot of steam or other indicator that things aren't working long 
before you'd ruin the motor from overheating. So in 50 words or less, I 
wouldn't equate an electric fan with hearthache and/or expense.

Ask yourself this one: when was the last time you saw a mechanical fan on 
a modern car? There's a reason why this is and it isn't just the cost. 
It's how the mechanical fan plays into available power, parasitic losses, 
mechanical efficiency and "stuff like that".

I converted 10 years ago. Haven't looked back since.

BTW, I rigged mine so it comes on when the key is on. There's no 
"electronics" to go bad. If that sort of setup doesn't float your boat, 
you can rig the fan to run via a simple switch and you can turn the fan on 
when the temp guage swings to the high side. Lo-tech, but it'll work. 
Actually, that's what I do with the race car. I don't like adding things 
that can fail on that car, 'cause they always fail when you don't want 
them to fail (or need a distraction).

:-)

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Jan  7 10:13:03 2009
From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 12:13:03 EST
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
Message-ID: <ca0.46a1e9e6.36963c9f@aol.com>

Good point John, I have one on my overdrive (same way in parallel) to  remind 
me to switch it off at the light.
 
Thanks,
 
Lou
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 1/7/2009 11:00:59 A.M. Central Standard Time,  
johnehorton at yahoo.com writes:

 
Hi Do not wire the LED in series.  it will blow instantly.   Wire it in 
parallel to ground from the B+ lead to the motor. Use a 12Volt  one.  John H.


 
____________________________________
 




**************New year...new news.  Be the first to know what is making 
headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jan  7 11:57:50 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 12:57:50 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com><BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901071141150.9818@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <007901c970fa$e07ccce0$22a7a8c0@Ranteer.local>

does a shcematic show you where to pour the fluif?



But there are shcematics "out there" on the internet that show how to wire
in an indicator lamp for your fan that illuminates when the fan is running
(or not, depending on how you wire it).

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jan  7 12:08:52 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 14:08:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <50A5E26ADF494781AB4A10223EB4BA8C@BOBSNEWPC>

Henri,
Install Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit
(http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanEliminator.htm) It's a real cheap
horsepower gain.

Get a 16" "thin" puller fan like the Spal fan that I have
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm) Just make sure what ever you
get is thin enough to fit between the radiator and the cross brace.

I have Dan Masters' wire harness which includes wiring directions for a
light that shows when the fan is running. You can see his schematic here
http://www.advanceautowire.com/latetr6.pdf My fan is also wired to a 3-way
switch: Off, Manual On & Auto-On

Dan also drew up a schematic for me in case I wanted to use the Spal relay
that came with their fan http://tinyurl.com/7yqkqx

Bob


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 10:24 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

What is the preference for an electric cooling fan? Pusher or Puller?
As a Pusher, there seems to be easier mounting points in front of the rad,
but the fan and housing will reduce the free flow of air to the rad.
As a Puller the free air flow is better but mounting is less convenient and
the mechanical fan extension must be replaced.

I would appreciate comments and opinions, thank oyu,

Henri
75 TR6, triple webers
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Jan  7 16:46:35 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 15:46:35 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com>
	<BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901071141150.9818@isis.mit.edu>
	<007901c970fa$e07ccce0$22a7a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <01c401c97122$2cefce70$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Good one!
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 10:57 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?


> does a shcematic show you where to pour the fluif?
>
>
>
> But there are shcematics "out there" on the internet that show how to wire
> in an indicator lamp for your fan that illuminates when the fan is running
> (or not, depending on how you wire it).
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11490
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11490
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jan  7 15:07:20 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 17:07:20 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <007901c970fa$e07ccce0$22a7a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <83dfea6b0901070724t25754f20sdd5bece7f258753b@mail.gmail.com><BAY112-W425CEBCDD812CC8B17C59CCFDF0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901071141150.9818@isis.mit.edu>
	<007901c970fa$e07ccce0$22a7a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901071706210.9818@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 7 Jan 2009, Oliver wrote:

> does a shcematic show you where to pour the fluif?

have you ever tried speed typing on a PDA??? huh, have you???

:-)

> But there are shcematics "out there" on the internet that show how to wire


so I'm dyslexic, dig beal!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Wed Jan  7 15:08:41 2009
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 14:08:41 -0800
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170C8E@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

I finally finished converting my '69 gearbox to a J-type OD following
Nelson's articles and huge support from fellow member, Berry Price.
Following Nelson's article, I also replaced all seals and bearings.   I
ran my first test last night.  I can't begin to express the amount of
anxiety that built up right before I flipped the switch to turn the
electric motor on.  It's almost like watching your first born come into
the world (don't tell me wife I said that) and checking all their
fingers and toes.  Well, the gearbox sounded good.  No grinding of
metal, clanking, etc.  I only ran my test for about 5 minutes.



Nelson's article indicates I should have about 20 psi of residual
pressure in direct drive and 430-460 psi with the OD engaged.  The gauge
I'm using registers from 0 - 600 psi in 10 psi increments.  The gauge
registers very little, if any, residual pressure.  With the OD engaged,
the needle bounces between 380 to 410 psi.  I could definitely tell a
change in the speed of the input shaft when I engaged the OD, so I have
to believe it is working.  Also, according to Nelson, there must be some
residual pressure; otherwise the dashpot would not work.   Is the
engaged pressure acceptable?   Is this lower than expected pressure
(380-410) and the movement of the needle indicating a problem, such as
with the pressure relief valve?



Any input would be appreciated.



Mike

Corvallis, OR

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Jan  7 15:25:22 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 14:25:22 -0800
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure
In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170C8E@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170C8E@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2AE4F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Mike:

	More likely your gauge is reading low from the sounds of it. Have you cross
checked your gauge with a known accurate one to verify the readings?
	Also, tap the gauge lightly when taking a reading, to insure that residual
friction is not holding the needle back. 20 PSI on your gauge is only 2 minor
divisions and conventional pressure gauges can easily stick by that amount
especially in the lower part of its range.
	Even if everything is correct, and you are slightly low on pressure, it
sounds pretty healthy to me.
	BTW, did you happen to check your sliding clutch member for wear? My OD
worked fine when it was cold, but slipped in reverse when hot. Turns out that
is symptomatic of a worn clutch. I measured the remaining friction material,
and it was at 0.040". As new is 0.100" thick. It would seem that the OD needs
a new clutch if you are at 0.040" or less. I would check BEFORE you put it
back in the car (unlike me). Doh!

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 2:09 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure

<snip>


Nelson's article indicates I should have about 20 psi of residual
pressure in direct drive and 430-460 psi with the OD engaged.  The gauge
I'm using registers from 0 - 600 psi in 10 psi increments.  The gauge
registers very little, if any, residual pressure.  With the OD engaged,
the needle bounces between 380 to 410 psi.  I could definitely tell a
change in the speed of the input shaft when I engaged the OD, so I have
to believe it is working.  Also, according to Nelson, there must be some
residual pressure; otherwise the dashpot would not work.   Is the
engaged pressure acceptable?   Is this lower than expected pressure
(380-410) and the movement of the needle indicating a problem, such as
with the pressure relief valve?


Any input would be appreciated.


Mike

Corvallis, OR

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Jan  7 16:09:26 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 18:09:26 EST
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure
Message-ID: <d39.3f096ffc.36969026@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/7/2009 5:26:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
vance.navarrette at intel.com writes:

I would  check BEFORE you put it
back in the car (unlike me). Doh!

Vance



Gee, I just went off like I had brains when I put mine in.  I  rebuilt the 
tranny, stuck the J Type OD on, put the whole thing in the car, and  drove away. 
 My issue is a leak and it appears that it is coming from the  fiber washer 
where the solenoid screws up to the housing.  I went to  Northern tool and 
bought a 1" wrench and ground it to fit.  I snugged it up  but still leaks.  If I 
drive the car and don't use the OD it does not drip  on the garage floor.  If 
I use the OD it does.  There are O rings on  the solenoid.  Might I need to 
replace those as well?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215195222x1200993641/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=82%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO82)

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Wed Jan  7 16:21:31 2009
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 15:21:31 -0800
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2AE4F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170C8E@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2AE4F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170C91@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

Vance,

I don't have my notes in front of me, but the clutch friction material
measured well within the acceptable range.  Unfortunately, I know how
easy it is to measure incorrectly.  When replacing the seals and o-rings
everything looked in good condition.  It seemed like it may not have
seen much use since the last time it was rebuilt.  Thanks for bringing
up about reverse.  You made me think about the friction material
providing the direct drive.  You know as you go through the process of
learning all this stuff, it makes sense at the moment you're reading and
studying it, but the knowledge has a tendency of evaporating the minute
you move on to the next step.  Maybe this is age related?

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 2:25 PM
To: Corbitt, Michael; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure


 	Mike:

	More likely your gauge is reading low from the sounds of it.
Have you cross checked your gauge with a known accurate one to verify
the readings?
	Also, tap the gauge lightly when taking a reading, to insure
that residual friction is not holding the needle back. 20 PSI on your
gauge is only 2 minor divisions and conventional pressure gauges can
easily stick by that amount especially in the lower part of its range.
	Even if everything is correct, and you are slightly low on
pressure, it sounds pretty healthy to me.
	BTW, did you happen to check your sliding clutch member for
wear? My OD worked fine when it was cold, but slipped in reverse when
hot. Turns out that is symptomatic of a worn clutch. I measured the
remaining friction material, and it was at 0.040". As new is 0.100"
thick. It would seem that the OD needs a new clutch if you are at 0.040"
or less. I would check BEFORE you put it back in the car (unlike me).
Doh!

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 2:09 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure

<snip>


Nelson's article indicates I should have about 20 psi of residual
pressure in direct drive and 430-460 psi with the OD engaged.  The gauge
I'm using registers from 0 - 600 psi in 10 psi increments.  The gauge
registers very little, if any, residual pressure.  With the OD engaged,
the needle bounces between 380 to 410 psi.  I could definitely tell a
change in the speed of the input shaft when I engaged the OD, so I have
to believe it is working.  Also, according to Nelson, there must be some
residual pressure; otherwise the dashpot would not work.   Is the
engaged pressure acceptable?   Is this lower than expected pressure
(380-410) and the movement of the needle indicating a problem, such as
with the pressure relief valve?


Any input would be appreciated.


Mike

Corvallis, OR

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Wed Jan  7 16:23:26 2009
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Wed, 7 Jan 2009 15:23:26 -0800
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure
In-Reply-To: <d39.3f096ffc.36969026@aol.com>
References: <d39.3f096ffc.36969026@aol.com>
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170C92@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

David,



For what it's worth, my solenoid had a copper washer.  But I haven't run
it enough to know whether it's going to leak or not.



Mike



From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com]
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 3:09 PM
To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; Corbitt, Michael; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure



In a message dated 1/7/2009 5:26:28 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
vance.navarrette at intel.com writes:

	I would check BEFORE you put it
	back in the car (unlike me). Doh!

	    Vance

Gee, I just went off like I had brains when I put mine in.  I rebuilt
the tranny, stuck the J Type OD on, put the whole thing in the car, and
drove away.  My issue is a leak and it appears that it is coming from
the fiber washer where the solenoid screws up to the housing.  I went to
Northern tool and bought a 1" wrench and ground it to fit.  I snugged it
up but still leaks.  If I drive the car and don't use the OD it does not
drip on the garage floor.  If I use the OD it does.  There are O rings
on the solenoid.  Might I need to replace those as well?



David Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO





________________________________

A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!
<http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215195222x1200993641/aol?redir
=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=82%2
6bcd=DecemailfooterNO82>

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Wed Jan  7 19:15:19 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Wed, 07 Jan 2009 21:15:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lord forgive me, an MGA question
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40901060918n10a79f1ep538fcd38296fe40c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40901060531h1cc71edg95169fc80c73458f@mail.gmail.com>
	<002101c9701e$8fa206a0$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd>
	<d8ff30d40901060918n10a79f1ep538fcd38296fe40c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <496561B7.9090001@snet.net>

I'm 6'1" and I fit in my MGA more easily than I do in our TR6.  Yes, I 
have both, plus some other strays.

John VanNorman wrote:
> Thanks guys!  I'm going to take everything everyone  said and put
> together a check list to take with us.
>
> The interesting thing will be whether he fits inside it.  He is like
> me, rather tall (I'm 6 foot 5 and I think my buddy is 6 foot 4 or so)
> and I know what a close fit it is for me to fit in my 6 even after the
> changes I made.
>
> John V.
>
> 1974 1/2 TR6
>
> On Tue, Jan 6, 2009 at 11:48 AM, ed <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
>   
>> John:
>>
>>
>> There is probably nothing unusual to look for.  Rust, of course, is
>> sometimes found in the usual places inside the front of the rear fenders,
>> and the doglegs.  You could check the real floorboards for wood rot.
>>
>> There are a few items for which it is almost impossible to find
>> replacements.  The only one which comes immediately to mind is the turn
>> signal indicator switch.
>>
>> If you really awfully badly want to get him away from the MGA, we could set
>> up a swap for my 1976 TR6.  I used to have an MGA, and I miss it.
>>
>> Ed Bratt
>> Regina, Saskatchewan
>> 1976 TR6
>>
>> ----- Original Message ----- From: "John VanNorman" <jsvannorman at gmail.com>
>> To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
>> Sent: Tuesday, January 06, 2009 7:31 AM
>> Subject: [6pack] Lord forgive me, an MGA question
>>     
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net

From rnorris1 at swbell.net  Thu Jan  8 07:36:47 2009
From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 06:36:47 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Dot 4+ brake fluid
Message-ID: <858938.39645.qm@web81504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Is Dot 5.1 (non-silicone) brake fluid compatible with Dot 4+/Super Dot 4?
 Rick Norris

From apackard68 at att.net  Thu Jan  8 09:03:11 2009
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 08:03:11 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <50A5E26ADF494781AB4A10223EB4BA8C@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>

Part of my TR250 resto included the fan eliminator kit and a Hayden 15"
pusher.  My local LBC didn't want the puller because of the increased
operating noise of the thinner fans.  We used the wire typically used for an
AC condenser switch (so the fan comes on anytime the AC is on for a car that
has it) and wired up a manual switch to a pull knob that barely sticks out
underneath the dash just to the right of the steering column.  I can pull it
if in slow moving traffic and to check that the fan is coming on correctly.
With the fan on at a stand still, it's generating directed airflow
equivalent to traveling at pretty high speeds and I can see the temp gauge
move back to the left when it kicks on. 
Andy
CD6746L HVDA



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 11:09 AM
To: 'Henri Lefebvre'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

Henri,
Install Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit
(http://www.pattonmachine.com/FanEliminator.htm) It's a real cheap
horsepower gain.

Get a 16" "thin" puller fan like the Spal fan that I have
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm) Just make sure what ever you
get is thin enough to fit between the radiator and the cross brace.

I have Dan Masters' wire harness which includes wiring directions for a
light that shows when the fan is running. You can see his schematic here
http://www.advanceautowire.com/latetr6.pdf My fan is also wired to a 3-way
switch: Off, Manual On & Auto-On

Dan also drew up a schematic for me in case I wanted to use the Spal relay
that came with their fan http://tinyurl.com/7yqkqx

Bob


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre
Sent: Wednesday, January 07, 2009 10:24 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

What is the preference for an electric cooling fan? Pusher or Puller?
As a Pusher, there seems to be easier mounting points in front of the rad,
but the fan and housing will reduce the free flow of air to the rad.
As a Puller the free air flow is better but mounting is less convenient and
the mechanical fan extension must be replaced.

I would appreciate comments and opinions, thank oyu,

Henri
75 TR6, triple webers
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as apackard68 at att.net

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Thu Jan  8 09:47:03 2009
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 11:47:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>
References: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>

With all the talk of electric cooling fans I must admit my fear of 
roadside break downs. I have used an electric fan as an auxiliary for 
many years but have always been afraid to rely on it as the only means 
of cooling. I hate to get stuck & have never in the ten years I've had 
this six. I have had one electric fan fail in this time period though. 
Of course every late model car I own has only elec units to provide 
cooling. I guess my question is since it seems so many have converted 
solely to elec fans, what is your long term reliability history. Since 
my fan is mounted as a pusher, the elimination of the mechanical fan 
would give me more room when changing a V-belt & clean up the engine 
bay. All experiences welcome.

Thanks


-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jan  8 10:33:18 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 12:33:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
References: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>
	<49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <7C6A5CA4D6F74A3E8ABC6EE2F7681EC7@BOBSNEWPC>

Mitch,
I've had an electric fan on my car for about 10 years now. First a Hayden as
a pusher and for the past two years a Spal as a puller. Both have worked
perfectly. For about four years I've had the fan wired to a dash light so
that I'd know when it was running. Much to my surprise, it "never" comes on
when I'm moving over 30-35 mph. So for most driving, the fan never runs. It
only cycles on and off when driving at very slow speeds or in stop and go
traffic. 

My puller is loud if it's running and your standing outside the car but I
can't hear it when sitting in the car, motor running, top down, radio
on....etc.

Bob


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mitch
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 11:47 AM
To: Andrew Packard
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

With all the talk of electric cooling fans I must admit my fear of roadside
break downs. I have used an electric fan as an auxiliary for many years but
have always been afraid to rely on it as the only means of cooling. I hate
to get stuck & have never in the ten years I've had this six. I have had one
electric fan fail in this time period though. 
Of course every late model car I own has only elec units to provide cooling.
I guess my question is since it seems so many have converted solely to elec
fans, what is your long term reliability history. Since my fan is mounted as
a pusher, the elimination of the mechanical fan would give me more room when
changing a V-belt & clean up the engine bay. All experiences welcome.

Thanks


--
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jan  8 10:50:02 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 12:50:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
References: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>
	<49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901081205160.11451@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 8 Jan 2009, Mitch wrote:

[stuff deleted]

> the engine bay. All experiences welcome.

My experience with the street car has been great. I've had the same fan in 
there for 7 or 8 years, no probs.

The race car, on the other hand has had two replacements. One was 
mechanical damage and last winter the thing just siezed up. Not sure why, 
but I might have dunked it in Simple Green when I was cleaning the car for 
the winter. But the fan completely siezed up. Either that or ir froze from 
lack of use (as the car didn't move in 2006 and I drive another car in 
2007, so the race car was just sitting for about 2 years!)

At any rate, there's not much that can go wrong with a fan, and even if 
the fan dies, the only circumstance where it would matter would be if you 
were stuck in traffic and not moving. Otherwise they are pretty reliable. 
They're also pretty inexpensive and you can get them anywhere. My last 
replacement came from Autozone.

> Thanks
>
>
> -- 
> Mitch Seff
> Oceanside, N.Y.
> 75 TR6 SC
> http://www.triumphowners.com/384

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From grant at bowtie6.com  Thu Jan  8 11:05:55 2009
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 13:05:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
References: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>
	<49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <000c01c971bb$c11d8490$43588db0$@com>

I've been watching this thread and found some of the comments interesting.
I will try to add my .02 worth, if you don't mind.  I have done a HUGE
amount of research on this subject and have a flawless system in both my TR6
as well as in my Vette powered 84 XJ6.  

*  Electric fans do not 'fail'.  I have TWO in my Jag and the car has over
200,000 miles and 12 years since I restored it.  The fans are of course SPAL
and have never failed.  Lesser quality fans might be prone to failure but
not the SPALS.  I realize all mechanical devices will fail at one time or
another, but so far my SPAL fans have been rock solid.  I have one installed
in my TR6 and it has also worked perfectly.

*  Puller fans are documented to be more efficient.  The pusher variety does
not work well and I don't recommend using them.

*  It is absolutely essential that the fan be shrouded and mounted at a
certain distance from the radiator.  Just slapping the fan without a shroud
does not allow it to run at its peak efficiency.  Something that nobody
considers and nobody talks about, but an electric fan must be shrouded.  It
is not done because of the effort that goes into fabricating the shrouding.
Go the extra mile and it will amaze you how efficient it is.

*  Controllers:  I use a controller that employs a probe monitoring the
coolant.  This is another item that might take some effort to install, but
that is the ONLY controller for my fans.  I do not have a switch mounted
inside the car.  The fan is completely controlled by the monitoring device.
I know that SPAL makes one - don't know how good it is though.  Also, I do
not 'regulate' the speed of the fan.  The fan runs at one speed and that is
balls-to-the-wall.  When the switch kicks in the fan runs for 30-40 seconds
and shuts off.  That is how much heat it sucks out.  And, this is in the
summer in South Carolina.

*  Noise:  the amount of noise depends on the type of blades the fan has.
In SPAL fans, there are two types of blades:  curved and straight.  The
curved blades will allow the fan to run a bit quieter but at the expense of
efficiency.  The straight blades are more efficient, but they are also
noisier.  Fan noise does not bother me because for one it does not last very
long when the fan runs and also I know the fans are doing their work.  The
fan is infinitely more efficient that any engine mounted fan.

*  As Bob stated, the fan only runs in stop and go traffic and not at
highway speeds.  That is the whole beauty of the electric fan.  

If you want to see what a fully shrouded fan looks like, go here:
http://www.bowtie6.com/cooling_system.htm - behind that shroud is Griffin
aluminium radiator.  It has four pegs where the shroud gets bolted through
and then the shroud has bolts that hold the fan in place.  There are none of
those plastic 'through-the-radiator' holders - which are a very bad idea
because they will eventually stress the delicate flutes of the radiator core
and cause it to leak.  

Hope you don't mind me adding this.

joe

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Jan  8 11:44:56 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 10:44:56 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
References: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>
	<49662E07.8090100@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2B29F@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Mitch:

	I must admit that there is zero to go wrong with the Triumph mechanical fan.
OK, I suppose it could fall off, but other than that it is as reliable as an
anvil.
	The overwhelming sense of the industry is that electrical fans, even though
they cost more, are the way to go. Improved power and mileage as well as 0
noise when the car is at speed (since it is off most of the time) is difficult
to argue with. Even the old clutch driven fan which narrowed the efficiency
gap has disappeared. Heck the trend now is for more electrically driven
accessories like power steering. With clear advantages like the fan, it needs
no explanation as to why push is continuing.
	In all the cars I have ever owned with electric fans (the last 5, spanning 24
years) I have not had a single electric fan failure. So I guess I can say that
the reliability is certainly up to snuff.
	Consider this too; Let's say your electric fan poops out completely. Are you
stranded? Certainly not. You open the heater valve, set the heater fan on max,
and continue on your way. The heater will keep you on the road until you get
the real fan fixed. You will get home, sweaty but safe. So you have a built in
back up available at all times.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mitch
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 8:47 AM
To: Andrew Packard
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

With all the talk of electric cooling fans I must admit my fear of
roadside break downs. I have used an electric fan as an auxiliary for
many years but have always been afraid to rely on it as the only means
of cooling. I hate to get stuck & have never in the ten years I've had
this six. I have had one electric fan fail in this time period though.
Of course every late model car I own has only elec units to provide
cooling. I guess my question is since it seems so many have converted
solely to elec fans, what is your long term reliability history. Since
my fan is mounted as a pusher, the elimination of the mechanical fan
would give me more room when changing a V-belt & clean up the engine
bay. All experiences welcome.

Thanks


--
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Thu Jan  8 12:33:44 2009
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 14:33:44 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric coolin fan
Message-ID: <49665518.5090007@optonline.net>

Thanks for all the input. It seems like the response is overwhelming for 
mechanical fan removal. Although I'm not convinced that electric fans 
"never fail" , Joe's research & execution are always top notch.  I'll 
give up some efficiency for the time being to gain the extra fan belt 
service room for now (the blower goes through belts a little more often 
than normal) & run it through the summer then reevaluate. As long as the 
car remains with in acceptable temps I'm good. My pusher is modified to 
use a simple shroud funneling the air through the radiator.

Thanks again, as usual the help is appreciated.

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From grant at bowtie6.com  Thu Jan  8 14:52:32 2009
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 16:52:32 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <144907640FD342C29295862A5414F7C0@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <20090108160532.BB3CF187675@autox.team.net>
	<49662E07.8090100@optonline.net> <000c01c971bb$c11d8490$43588db0$@com>
	<144907640FD342C29295862A5414F7C0@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <000001c971db$6cc7f4f0$4657ded0$@com>

Thank you for the compliment Bob.

Since Bob made the clarification, I'll add this:  the temp sensor that I use
has a built in temp adjustment.  In other words, you can dial in when it is
that you want the fan to kick in.  This will also serve the purpose that Bob
mentions about not wanting the fan to run when you are working under the
hood.  Or, I guess another way to accomplish that would be to take the relay
apart and that way the thing would not come on regardless.  However you
would have to use a two part relay like the ones I have on my car.  They
have a base that is fixed and has all the wires on it and the relay that
clips on the top of that.

Also, for some ideas on fan controllers take a look:  
http://www.streetperformance.com/part/painless-wiring/fan-controller/516462-
30104.html 

Mine is not exactly that one, but it is close.  The idea though is the same
- you can even see the knob for the temp adjuster.

But...  I degress; this is a thread on fans not controllers.  Sorry for
hijacking the thread.

Joe

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jan  8 15:07:32 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 17:07:32 -0500
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
Message-ID: <D3BC33EA109B4B62965DA6127481B8FC@BOBSNEWPC>

Geeze.... What is the 6-pack allowable mail size? Here's what got bounced
and has now been snipped..... To appropriate size I hope...

Just a point of clarification in case you don't check out Joe's
site......which you should because you'll spend hours there with your jaw on
the desk looking at the work he has done......when Joe talks shroud he's NOT
talking a radiator shroud like Goodparts sells. He constructed a fan shroud
that totally covers the back of his radiator except the fan itself. Very
cool.....if only I had the metal working skills!

I installed the three way switch for a couple of reasons. I wanted an off
position for when I'm working under the hood with the engine running and
don't want to fan kicking in and scaring the crap out of me...... And the
manual-on position lets me turn the fan on when I see I'm going to be stuck
in beach traffic and I know I'll be crawling down route 1 forever. It's my
pre-emptive strike so to speak ;-)


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


SNIP......Joe's email.....  It is absolutely essential that the fan be
shrouded and mounted at a certain distance from the radiator.  Just slapping
the fan without a shroud does not allow it to run at its peak efficiency.
Something that nobody considers and nobody talks about, but an electric fan
must be shrouded.  It is not done because of the effort that goes into
fabricating the shrouding. Go the extra mile and it will amaze you how
efficient it is.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Jan  8 15:28:18 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 14:28:18 -0800
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <D3BC33EA109B4B62965DA6127481B8FC@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <D3BC33EA109B4B62965DA6127481B8FC@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2B4C6@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Hey Bob:

	Was that your car on the cover of Hemmings? Way cool dude!

	Vance

      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 2:08 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] FW: Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

Geeze.... What is the 6-pack allowable mail size? Here's what got bounced
and has now been snipped..... To appropriate size I hope...

Just a point of clarification in case you don't check out Joe's
site......which you should because you'll spend hours there with your jaw on
the desk looking at the work he has done......when Joe talks shroud he's NOT
talking a radiator shroud like Goodparts sells. He constructed a fan shroud
that totally covers the back of his radiator except the fan itself. Very
cool.....if only I had the metal working skills!

I installed the three way switch for a couple of reasons. I wanted an off
position for when I'm working under the hood with the engine running and
don't want to fan kicking in and scaring the crap out of me...... And the
manual-on position lets me turn the fan on when I see I'm going to be stuck
in beach traffic and I know I'll be crawling down route 1 forever. It's my
pre-emptive strike so to speak ;-)


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From davgil at aol.com  Thu Jan  8 16:02:53 2009
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2009 18:02:53 -0500
Subject: [6pack] welding question
Message-ID: <8CB3FFC5F0BE4FC-11B8-58C@WEBMAIL-DF03.sysops.aol.com>

As a very inexperienced welder, I have a question to pose to the talent on the lists.? I am welding a fitting for a trailer jack to a plate that I purchased that will attached to the trailer.? I purchased a set of plates and hangers from Northern Tools.? The kit is actually to attach springs to a trailer, but the plate and U-bolts fit my needs perfectly.? The plate is listed as zinc on the package, but has more of a cadmium appearance to it.? It is very smooth.? Do I need to grind this coating (which is clearly not hot dipped zinc) off of the plate before welding, or simply have at it and don't worry about the coating.? I anticipate repainting the entire assembly with an epoxy paint after welding.? I will be using a stick welder.? Thanks for the advice.
David Gill
1976 TR6 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jan  8 17:24:40 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 8 Jan 2009 19:24:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2B4C6@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <D3BC33EA109B4B62965DA6127481B8FC@BOBSNEWPC>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2B4C6@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <7190AE2F0A1A4078AD1A3818546F6AB3@BOBSNEWPC>

Vance......yup, that was me. I actually wrote up how it all came to happen
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HemmingsCover.htm)  But mostly dumb luck. 

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] 
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 5:28 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] FW: Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

	Hey Bob:

	Was that your car on the cover of Hemmings? Way cool dude!

	Vance 

      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 2:08 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] FW: Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?

Geeze.... What is the 6-pack allowable mail size? Here's what got bounced
and has now been snipped..... To appropriate size I hope...

Just a point of clarification in case you don't check out Joe's
site......which you should because you'll spend hours there with your jaw on
the desk looking at the work he has done......when Joe talks shroud he's NOT
talking a radiator shroud like Goodparts sells. He constructed a fan shroud
that totally covers the back of his radiator except the fan itself. Very
cool.....if only I had the metal working skills!

I installed the three way switch for a couple of reasons. I wanted an off
position for when I'm working under the hood with the engine running and
don't want to fan kicking in and scaring the crap out of me...... And the
manual-on position lets me turn the fan on when I see I'm going to be stuck
in beach traffic and I know I'll be crawling down route 1 forever. It's my
pre-emptive strike so to speak ;-)


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From Ken at azkiwis.com  Fri Jan  9 07:48:26 2009
From: Ken at azkiwis.com (Ken)
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 07:48:26 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Advice on Removing Rear Panel
Message-ID: <FC66954E3AB94DA5A46E91FF68BAD115@AcerPC>

Hi all,

The Beast is a 1973 TR6, with J type OD, a tired cockpit, and some rust in 
places, the worst being one rocker panel is pretty much rotted out.

After, oh, roughly 5 years or so of procrastination, I'm beginning the 
repair to the rusted out driver's side rocker panel.

Got the front Panel off, wasn't easy, took a while, quite a while, to find 
the bolts hidden behind the side carpeting.

Today and tomorrow I plan to remove the rear panel to fully expose the 
rocker panel.

Plan of attack is -

Remove bumper /extension
remove Tail light housing
Remove the obvious bolts inside the trunk, underneath the panel bottom.


Now, based on the hidden bolts I found on the front, I'm sure there are 
equivalents on the rear..

-are there hidden bolts way back under the body (can't think of the name) 
back toward the cockpit area
-can I reach these thru the trunk
-must I remove the finishing trim in the cockpit area to get at any?

- any BTDT experience you can offer?


Thanks a Bunch


Ken
(a lurker),
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, Arizona 

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Fri Jan  9 08:36:00 2009
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (James F Juhas)
Date: Fri, 09 Jan 2009 10:36:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] welding question
In-Reply-To: <8CB3FFC5F0BE4FC-11B8-58C@WEBMAIL-DF03.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CB3FFC5F0BE4FC-11B8-58C@WEBMAIL-DF03.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <49676EE0.8070807@snet.net>

I would remove the coating where the weld will be.  The gases that will 
be expelled are toxic, and with good ventilation, may not pose a serious 
threat, but there's no reason to risk it.  the coating may lead to weld 
impurities that would weaken the weld, but again, probably not too much 
a risk in this application.  Like most of us amateur weldors, you're 
going to over-weld anyway, no doubt.  But since the coating will burn 
off anyway, I would remove it first to avoid both potential problems.

I once bought a canopy from a man at Carlisle.  The fittings he made to 
put the poles together were made from electrical conduit, also 
galvanized.  It was obvious from his welds that he never took the time 
to remove the toxic zinc before welding.  He appeared to not be in the 
best of health.

I've wanted to buy another canopy, but he hasn't been back for several 
years now.

davgil at aol.com wrote:
> As a very inexperienced welder, I have a question to pose to the talent on the lists.? I am welding a fitting for a trailer jack to a plate that I purchased that will attached to the trailer.? I purchased a set of plates and hangers from Northern Tools.? The kit is actually to attach springs to a trailer, but the plate and U-bolts fit my needs perfectly.? The plate is listed as zinc on the package, but has more of a cadmium appearance to it.? It is very smooth.? Do I need to grind this coating (which is clearly not hot dipped zinc) off of the plate before welding, or simply have at it and don't worry about the coating.? I anticipate repainting the entire assembly with an epoxy paint after welding.? I will be using a stick welder.? Thanks for the advice.
> David Gill
> 1976 TR6 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as james.f.juhas at snet.net
>
>   


-- 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type text/x-vcard which had a name of james_f_juhas.vcf]

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri Jan  9 09:28:34 2009
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 08:28:34 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Advice on Removing Rear Panel
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD82F@MAIN.RSC.local>

Ken,

There is a line of fasteners all along the top edge of the fender. You will need to remove the inner trim to access those.  There are not any on the B post/dogleg like those you found under the front carpet kick panel.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6

--------------------------
Sent from my BlackBerry Wireless Handheld


----- Original Message -----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri Jan 09 06:48:26 2009
Subject: [6pack] Advice on Removing Rear Panel

Hi all,

The Beast is a 1973 TR6, with J type OD, a tired cockpit, and some rust in 
places, the worst being one rocker panel is pretty much rotted out.

After, oh, roughly 5 years or so of procrastination, I'm beginning the 
repair to the rusted out driver's side rocker panel.

Got the front Panel off, wasn't easy, took a while, quite a while, to find 
the bolts hidden behind the side carpeting.

Today and tomorrow I plan to remove the rear panel to fully expose the 
rocker panel.

Plan of attack is -

Remove bumper /extension
remove Tail light housing
Remove the obvious bolts inside the trunk, underneath the panel bottom.


Now, based on the hidden bolts I found on the front, I'm sure there are 
equivalents on the rear..

-are there hidden bolts way back under the body (can't think of the name) 
back toward the cockpit area
-can I reach these thru the trunk
-must I remove the finishing trim in the cockpit area to get at any?

- any BTDT experience you can offer?


Thanks a Bunch


Ken
(a lurker),
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, Arizona 
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as rclark at robertsonclark.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jan  9 09:32:11 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 08:32:11 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Advice on Removing Rear Panel
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD82F@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD82F@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2B7E1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Ken:

	One other thing to be aware of in removing the rear wing.

	The factory tolerances on the body stampings were not very good, and in the
case of the rear wing the factory would sometimes use a tack weld to hold the
wing in the proper shape.
	After removing all the fasteners for the wing, you may find that there is a
tack weld between the bottom outside edge of the wing and the rocker panel.
Worse, this tack weld is small enough that it is hidden in the  3M Schutz that
is sprayed on the rocker to protect it from rock chips and the like. So scrape
away the black crud from the seam between the rocker and rear wing to make
sure you don't have a tack weld. If you do, you will need to cut it with a
Dremel, or you will end up tearing out a dime size chunk of the wing. Ask me
how I know.

	Cheers,

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Fri Jan  9 10:59:36 2009
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 09:59:36 -0800
Subject: [6pack] J-Type OD - Engaged Pressure - Problem Solved
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170CA8@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

Vance,



As always, thanks for your great input.  Last night I finally got back
to assessing my problem with low and erratic pressure when the OD is
engaged.  Seems the problem was nothing more than belt tension.  I was
using a very old belt and didn't realize after running for just a very
short time that it had shredded off some of itself and lost its tension.
Once noticed, I retightened everything, stood clear of the belt and
watched as both residual and engaged pressure moved within Nelson's
guidelines.  Oh, for joy!



So now I owe you two cups of coffee.



Mike

Corvallis, OR

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Fri Jan  9 11:49:49 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 13:49:49 -0500
Subject: [6pack]  TEST
In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170CA8@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <C263949896284520804AA5FC11CC8775@Desktop>

TEST

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Fri Jan  9 16:41:51 2009
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Fri, 9 Jan 2009 16:41:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] FW: Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <7190AE2F0A1A4078AD1A3818546F6AB3@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <D3BC33EA109B4B62965DA6127481B8FC@BOBSNEWPC>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BC2B4C6@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<7190AE2F0A1A4078AD1A3818546F6AB3@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0901091541y309c293bv1bf58fe7ab366db6@mail.gmail.com>

Thank you everyone for the excellent tips, comments, web sites and opinions.
Now I can get started on this project, in conjunction with installing
headlight relays, checking the horns and mounting a grille badge or
two.

Henri

On Thu, Jan 8, 2009 at 5:24 PM, Bob Danielson
<75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:
> Vance......yup, that was me. I actually wrote up how it all came to happen
> (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HemmingsCover.htm)  But mostly dumb luck.
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com]
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 5:28 PM
> To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: RE: [6pack] FW: Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
>
>        Hey Bob:
>
>        Was that your car on the cover of Hemmings? Way cool dude!
>
>        Vance
>
>      Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Danielson
> Sent: Thursday, January 08, 2009 2:08 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] FW: Electric cooling fan: pusher or puller?
>
> Geeze.... What is the 6-pack allowable mail size? Here's what got bounced
> and has now been snipped..... To appropriate size I hope...
>
> Just a point of clarification in case you don't check out Joe's
> site......which you should because you'll spend hours there with your jaw on
> the desk looking at the work he has done......when Joe talks shroud he's NOT
> talking a radiator shroud like Goodparts sells. He constructed a fan shroud
> that totally covers the back of his radiator except the fan itself. Very
> cool.....if only I had the metal working skills!
>
> I installed the three way switch for a couple of reasons. I wanted an off
> position for when I'm working under the hood with the engine running and
> don't want to fan kicking in and scaring the crap out of me...... And the
> manual-on position lets me turn the fan on when I see I'm going to be stuck
> in beach traffic and I know I'll be crawling down route 1 forever. It's my
> pre-emptive strike so to speak ;-)
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jan 10 06:36:46 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 08:36:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] chrome
Message-ID: <200901100836.46894.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

I picked up my rear bumper at the chrome shop yesterday and I must say they 
did a good job.

The center piece had 2 small dings on either side about 1" from the mounting 
points and they are now gone.

I took a magnifying glass out to see if I could see any sign of the dents but 
could not. 

I have no idea how they did this but I am glad they did. And the price of the 
dent removal was included in the overall price.

The chrome looks real nice, smooth and the inside, which was all rust, is now 
chrome as well.

After the front bumper came out so nice, I decided to to the rear as well 
since it had lots of spider-ing.

So now my bumpers are done but they wont be mounted for at least 2 years!

After inspection, I covered them inside and out with a coat of Cullinite wax.

They are now packed away with all the other parts in the cellar.

Too cold to work in the garage today. Currently 0. 

Most likely will work on the windshield frame.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jan 10 06:58:47 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 08:58:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] chrome
In-Reply-To: <365691.86713.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <365691.86713.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <200901100858.48159.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Saturday 10 January 2009 08:49:20 john doe wrote:
> hi bob who did the work and how much
>
John,

I had the work done by Sandy's bumper mart in Syracuse NY.

The total (with NYS tax) was 414$.

The breakdown is:

Center = 192.
L 	   = 96.
R         = 96.

This is with a 20% discount (which expired on 30 Dec 2008).

The project is a 72 TR6.

Their website is:http://www.sandysbumpermart.com/

Turn around time was 4 weeks on the rear bumper, 2 weeks on the front bumper.

According to the website, they have extended the 20% off sale until the end of 
January 2009, but it is for bumpers only.

Bob

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Jan 10 07:20:21 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 09:20:21 -0500
Subject: [6pack] chrome
In-Reply-To: <200901100858.48159.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <365691.86713.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<200901100858.48159.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <B1CA233A4FE2481DA58B9D99A3D2556C@Robert>

Bob wrote: The total (with NYS tax) was 414$.

The breakdown is:

Center = 192.
L 	   = 96.
R         = 96.


That's about average. I got quotes for front and back and they ranged from
$950 to $1250. The only thing was that due to the amount of surface rust on
the inside of the front bumper, I had to remove the inside box. This is done
to get the inside of the bumper clean in order that the products used by the
chromer are not contaminated. As the bumpers are mostly cosmetic, it did not
make a difference.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 8:59 AM
To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] chrome

On Saturday 10 January 2009 08:49:20 john doe wrote:
> hi bob who did the work and how much
>
John,

I had the work done by Sandy's bumper mart in Syracuse NY.

The total (with NYS tax) was 414$.

The breakdown is:

Center = 192.
L 	   = 96.
R         = 96.

This is with a 20% discount (which expired on 30 Dec 2008).

The project is a 72 TR6.

Their website is:http://www.sandysbumpermart.com/

Turn around time was 4 weeks on the rear bumper, 2 weeks on the front
bumper.

According to the website, they have extended the 20% off sale until the end
of 
January 2009, but it is for bumpers only.

Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as trsix74 at comcast.net

From Ken at azkiwis.com  Sat Jan 10 10:04:24 2009
From: Ken at azkiwis.com (Ken)
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 10:04:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Removing rear Badge
Message-ID: <E747620C5C8C4864AD9339CF5CB5C599@AcerPC>

Thanks for all the info on removing the body panels /fenders - the deed is
well underway.

One little thing that I haven't yet figured out.  On the R/rear is the
"Triumph / Overdrive" badge.   I've been looking at it, but can't figure out
how it's removed without damage.

How do I do it safely?



Thanks


Ken Davis
73 TR6
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jan 10 10:12:00 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 17:12:00 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Removing rear Badge
In-Reply-To: <E747620C5C8C4864AD9339CF5CB5C599@AcerPC>
References: <E747620C5C8C4864AD9339CF5CB5C599@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4760C7F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Ken, these badges may have been messed with and stuck on with trim tape etc
but if it is unmolested it will have two pins close to the ends that are a
push fit into some plastic inserts that go into holes in the rear panel. You
should be able to push a thin flat blade behind it close to each end and
gently lever it off. The OD drive hangs on the pins that are at the back of
the TRIUMPH badge.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ken
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 12:04 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Removing rear Badge

Thanks for all the info on removing the body panels /fenders - the deed is
well underway.

One little thing that I haven't yet figured out.  On the R/rear is the
"Triumph / Overdrive" badge.   I've been looking at it, but can't figure out
how it's removed without damage.

How do I do it safely?



Thanks


Ken Davis
73 TR6
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 10 16:19:52 2009
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 15:19:52 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Removing rear Badge
References: <E747620C5C8C4864AD9339CF5CB5C599@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <249974.45216.qm@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ken

The Triumph badge and the overdrive badge have posts that go into plastic
inserts. If you take a small flat blade screwdriver and pry under the badge to
raise enough to get tape under the work area. The going side to side with
increasing size screwdrivers it should come off. Do not try to pry from one
side only or you will break the post off.

Dale
________________________________
From: Ken <Ken at azkiwis.com>
To: 6pack
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, January 10, 2009 12:04:24 PM
Subject:
[6pack] Removing rear Badge

Thanks for all the info on removing the body
panels /fenders - the deed is
well underway.

One little thing that I haven't
yet figured out.  On the R/rear is the
"Triumph / Overdrive" badge.  I've been
looking at it, but can't figure out
how it's removed without damage.

How do I
do it safely?



Thanks


Ken Davis
73 TR6
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Sat Jan 10 22:10:56 2009
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Sat, 10 Jan 2009 21:10:56 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] electric Fan  - Pusher or puller?
Message-ID: <750662.76332.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I recall some folks stating that a 16'   PermaCool can be attached to the
outermost part of the radiator frame with simple sheet metal screws.   Puller
installation.    Maybe not as elegant as some, but seems straightforward.

I
guess I would weld a boss or something to my ss return pipe to hold the
termperature sensor.

Eventually I'll get around to this job.  I've had the
fan eliminator kit on my shelf for several years.

Bruce Simms 
CF1941UO
__________________________________________________________________
Yahoo!
Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite
sites. Download it now at
http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com.

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jan 10 22:24:19 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 05:24:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] electric Fan  - Pusher or puller?
In-Reply-To: <750662.76332.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
References: <750662.76332.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4760C9C@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I'm using that 16 inch permacool fan from Jegs and it does indeed attach to
the rad surround without too much drama. Someone on this list, and I apologize
because I don't recall who, published a how-to with some very helpful tips as
it needs some minor but important mods to the feet that attach to the rad
surround. I'm using a standard fan switch screwed into a bung that I had
installed at the bottom of the rad by a local shop and also Rick's fan
eliminator kit and this setup has worked well though its first New England
summer which by now feels like a long time ago already.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bruce Simms
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 12:11 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] electric Fan - Pusher or puller?

I recall some folks stating that a 16'   PermaCool can be attached to the
outermost part of the radiator frame with simple sheet metal screws.   Puller
installation.    Maybe not as elegant as some, but seems straightforward.

I
guess I would weld a boss or something to my ss return pipe to hold the
termperature sensor.

Eventually I'll get around to this job.  I've had the
fan eliminator kit on my shelf for several years.

Bruce Simms
CF1941UO

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Jan 11 06:27:53 2009
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 08:27:53 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
Message-ID: <4969F3D9.5080204@snet.net>

     Just a quick wiring question.  I have the lucar bullet type 
crimping tool from British Wiring.  Do I crimp back by where the wire  
enters the connector, or just behind the ball on the end?  The first 
couple I've tried, I crimped back by the wire, and it crushed the 
connector completely.  Is it worth soldering after crimping?  I'm 
installing a daytime running light controller because I tend to leave 
the lights on when driving with them on during the day.  It activates 
the high beams at 75% power whenever the ignition is on and I'm 
wondering if my Lucas 18ACR will keep up.  Thanks  fan any help.   John 
Mitchell  76 TR6

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jan 11 08:20:48 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 11 Jan 2009 10:20:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
In-Reply-To: <4969F3D9.5080204@snet.net>
References: <4969F3D9.5080204@snet.net>
Message-ID: <4289C9BDBE8143A19CBAE7AA4526C640@BOBSNEWPC>

John,
Here's a pretty good picture of a bullet crimped with the tool
http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy You do have use the special bullets that can be
crimped and also match up with the wire size you're using. I also soldered
them because it was so easy to heat the bullet, touch the solder to end of
the bullet and watch it sucked into the bullet. But I was working with Dan's
wire which can take a mini butane torch without melting. I stink with a
soldering iron!

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:28 AM
To: 6-Pack; BobDanielson; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors

     Just a quick wiring question.  I have the lucar bullet type crimping
tool from British Wiring.  Do I crimp back by where the wire enters the
connector, or just behind the ball on the end?  The first couple I've tried,
I crimped back by the wire, and it crushed the connector completely.  Is it
worth soldering after crimping?  I'm installing a daytime running light
controller because I tend to leave the lights on when driving with them on
during the day.  It activates the high beams at 75% power whenever the
ignition is on and I'm 
wondering if my Lucas 18ACR will keep up.  Thanks  fan any help.   John 
Mitchell  76 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jan 12 17:29:26 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 12 Jan 2009 19:29:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Windscreen paint
Message-ID: <200901121929.26758.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

What is the wisdom of the list for painting a windscreen?

I noted on the 6pack forum that one member painted the rear valence with 
Dupont Satin black and it looks very nice. I think he used a rattle can.

I have cleaned and primed my windscreen frame and was wondering if it would be 
ok to paint it with a rattle can. Would the finish hold up?

I noted that before I started the sanding of the windscreen some of the flat 
black paint was worn off down to the grey primer.

I cant paint with anything other than a rattle can (in the cellar) until 
warmer weather and would like to get the windscreen out of the way this 
winter if I could.

Would a rattle can finish hold up or should a more durable finish be applied? 
(with spay gun)

Anyone know where you can get Dupont Satin Black in a rattle can?

Thanks,

Bob

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Tue Jan 13 11:15:00 2009
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 10:15:00 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
In-Reply-To: <4289C9BDBE8143A19CBAE7AA4526C640@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD845@MAIN.RSC.local>

Bob,

The subject of crimping and soldering came up on the Wedge list a few
years ago and there was quite a discussion about whether soldering was
appropriate.  The experts on the list who I understand had some aircraft
industry experience were firmly against soldering.  As I recall the
thought was that while the connection with the connector was better, it
actually created a weak spot in the wire just beyond the soldered
section that would fail over time due to flexing of the wire, vibration
etc.

Shawn Loseke who was on both lists might recall this line also.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6


John,
Here's a pretty good picture of a bullet crimped with the tool
http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy You do have use the special bullets that can
be crimped and also match up with the wire size you're using. I also
soldered them because it was so easy to heat the bullet, touch the
solder to end of the bullet and watch it sucked into the bullet. But I
was working with Dan's wire which can take a mini butane torch without
melting. I stink with a soldering iron!

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Sunday, January 11, 2009 8:28 AM
To: 6-Pack; BobDanielson; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors

     Just a quick wiring question.  I have the lucar bullet type
crimping tool from British Wiring.  Do I crimp back by where the wire
enters the connector, or just behind the ball on the end?  The first
couple I've tried, I crimped back by the wire, and it crushed the
connector completely.  Is it worth soldering after crimping?  I'm
installing a daytime running light controller because I tend to leave
the lights on when driving with them on during the day.  It activates
the high beams at 75% power whenever the ignition is on and I'm
wondering if my Lucas 18ACR will keep up.  Thanks  fan any help.   John
Mitchell  76 TR6

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Tue Jan 13 11:24:42 2009
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 11:24:42 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD845@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <4289C9BDBE8143A19CBAE7AA4526C640@BOBSNEWPC>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD845@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0901131024y32768e7vdc8d26f83c35dc80@mail.gmail.com>

What I recall, from several volleys from both sides of the argument, is that
the conditions for soldering need to be right. Some of the connectors
available don't take solder very well, if your wires have any oxidation (if
they are older) they won't take solder well either. The biggest mistake made
with crimping connectors is not using the correct tool, which makes all the
difference. I've had plenty of success with just crimping bullets, using the
right tool of course. Haven't had to solder yet, but if you feel you must,
or would just like to for your own piece of mind. Go for it.

Shawn
On Tue, Jan 13, 2009 at 11:15 AM, Robert N. Clark <rclark at robertsonclark.com
> wrote:

> Bob,
>
> The subject of crimping and soldering came up on the Wedge list a few
> years ago and there was quite a discussion about whether soldering was
> appropriate.  The experts on the list who I understand had some aircraft
> industry experience were firmly against soldering.  As I recall the
> thought was that while the connection with the connector was better, it
> actually created a weak spot in the wire just beyond the soldered
> section that would fail over time due to flexing of the wire, vibration
> etc.
>
> Shawn Loseke who was on both lists might recall this line also.
>
> Bob Clark
> '69 TR6

From johnsimmons at wvdhhr.org  Tue Jan 13 12:01:09 2009
From: johnsimmons at wvdhhr.org (John Simmons)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 14:01:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 16 (New Email)
Message-ID: <s96c9eba.055@wvdhhr.org>

Hello my new email is john.a.simmons at wv.gov.

From sbeaulieu at caci.com  Tue Jan 13 14:02:19 2009
From: sbeaulieu at caci.com (Stephen Beaulieu)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 16:02:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <OF7D8BC842.083A4894-ON8525753D.0073919B-8525753D.0073919A@caci.com>

I will be out of the office starting  01/12/2009 and will not return until 01/19/2009.

I will respond to your message when I return.

From Jimandruthhome at aol.com  Tue Jan 13 14:19:55 2009
From: Jimandruthhome at aol.com (Jimandruthhome at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 16:19:55 EST
Subject: [6pack] semi-flat black windscreen paint
Message-ID: <c5f.4b40b369.369e5f7b@aol.com>

Bob wrote: "I noted on the 6pack forum that one member painted the rear  
valence with 
Dupont Satin black and it looks very nice. I think he used a  rattle can."
 
I used SEM Original Trim black, #39143 on the windscreen frame and  rear 
valence of my '71.  Comes in an aerosol can.  Went down very  nicely and produce a 
durable, soft sheen black that's still good 10 years-plus  later.  Follow 
directions re light coats (I think I did 4 or 5) and  waiting until completely 
cured before reassembly. 
 
Jim

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Tue Jan 13 14:21:44 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 16:21:44 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
References: <4289C9BDBE8143A19CBAE7AA4526C640@BOBSNEWPC><C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD845@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<3ea26c6b0901131024y32768e7vdc8d26f83c35dc80@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <88711EF1C32B41749791E5791CFDE5DC@hp>

The biggest problem is that the solder will wick part way down the wire 
making a hard point where it stops.. When the wire vibrates like when in a 
airplane it flexes at that point and will after time break right there.... 
I crimped only when building my plane no soldering.. But I don't think 
vibration will be that much of a problem in a TR-6....  Bob M


Subject: Re: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors


What I recall, from several volleys from both sides of the argument, is that
the conditions for soldering need to be right. Some of the connectors
available don't take solder very well, if your wires have any oxidation (if
they are older) they won't take solder well either. The biggest mistake made
with crimping connectors is not using the correct tool, which makes all the
difference. I've had plenty of success with just crimping bullets, using the
right tool of course. Haven't had to solder yet, but if you feel you must,
or would just like to for your own piece of mind. Go for it.

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Tue Jan 13 15:25:21 2009
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 14:25:21 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
In-Reply-To: <88711EF1C32B41749791E5791CFDE5DC@hp>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD84E@MAIN.RSC.local>

A TR-6 certainly won't fall out of the air when its wiring goes bad.  I
think when considering solder that we think this will make a nice
permanent and complete contact between the wire and the connector, but
is it necessary?  I have pulled a bunch of the original Triumph
connectors apart and have never pulled an undamaged (i.e. one that
wasn't corroded) wire out of the male fitting.  Perhaps the key is
proper crimping with the right tool and not just using a pair of
lineman's pliers that most of us are guilty of using.

Below are some articles referenced on the Wedge list:

http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/terminal.pdf
http://www.virginiawind.com/tips/060801_01.asp
http://www.molex.com/tnotes/crimp.html
http://www.aeroelectric.com/articles/

Food for thought.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6





The biggest problem is that the solder will wick part way down the wire
making a hard point where it stops.. When the wire vibrates like when in
a
airplane it flexes at that point and will after time break right
there....
I crimped only when building my plane no soldering.. But I don't think
vibration will be that much of a problem in a TR-6....  Bob M


Subject: Re: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors


What I recall, from several volleys from both sides of the argument, is
that the conditions for soldering need to be right. Some of the
connectors available don't take solder very well, if your wires have any
oxidation (if they are older) they won't take solder well either. The
biggest mistake made with crimping connectors is not using the correct
tool, which makes all the difference. I've had plenty of success with
just crimping bullets, using the right tool of course. Haven't had to
solder yet, but if you feel you must, or would just like to for your own
piece of mind. Go for it.

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Jan 13 15:41:38 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 17:41:38 EST
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
Message-ID: <d65.2e5caef2.369e72a2@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/13/2009 5:18:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
rclark at robertsonclark.com writes:

Perhaps  the key is
proper crimping with the right tool and not just using a pair  of
lineman's pliers that most of us are guilty of  using.



OK, I would like to line up Bob's url   _http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy_ 
(http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy)   and the  statement about lineman's pliers.  An 
electrician gave me what he said is a  "proper" crimping tool and it makes a crimp that 
looks just like what Bob has  posted.  I thought the things were lineman's 
pliers.  Maybe not.   I have crimped a connection and then clamped it in the vice 
to do a little  destructive testing.  It held very well.  
What gives?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************New year...new news.  Be the first to know what is making 
headlines. (http://www.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000026)

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Jan 13 15:41:12 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 17:41:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] semi-flat black windscreen paint
In-Reply-To: <c5f.4b40b369.369e5f7b@aol.com>
References: <c5f.4b40b369.369e5f7b@aol.com>
Message-ID: <200901131741.12842.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Thanks to all for their replies to this post.

Sounds like everyone used a rattle can!

Now I have to decide between Dupont, Rustoleum, SEM, and Dupicolor!

Either way as one member noted, if it doesn't come out good it is a small job 
and can be easily sanded off and re-done!

Bob

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Tue Jan 13 16:27:24 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 18:27:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
References: <d65.2e5caef2.369e72a2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <A72CB7E03DA14654B8E5B959C535C506@hp>

Lineman pliers predate crimping connectors and crimping tools by about a 
hundred years I would guess...They have a wire cutter and the bill is wide 
for gripping wires and twisting them... I think they were used to wire the 
telegraph wires to the insulators on the poles. Now I use a electricians 
tool which is a wire cutter, crimping, screw cutter and wire stripper all in 
one, ..Bob M





In a message dated 1/13/2009 5:18:00 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
rclark at robertsonclark.com writes:

Perhaps  the key is
proper crimping with the right tool and not just using a pair  of
lineman's pliers that most of us are guilty of  using.



OK, I would like to line up Bob's url   _http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy_
(http://tinyurl.com/98mxxy)   and the  statement about lineman's pliers.  An
electrician gave me what he said is a  "proper" crimping tool and it makes a 
crimp that
looks just like what Bob has  posted.  I thought the things were lineman's
pliers.  Maybe not.   I have crimped a connection and then clamped it in the 
vice
to do a little  destructive testing.  It held very well.
What gives?

David  Lylis

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Tue Jan 13 16:56:13 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Tue, 13 Jan 2009 23:56:13 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Crimping Bullet connectors
References: <d65.2e5caef2.369e72a2@aol.com>
	<A72CB7E03DA14654B8E5B959C535C506@hp>
Message-ID: <AE28ACDD76ED422E887551E63C051715@Bevan>

I prefer solder, then a spray of die-electric fluif followed by the slideover sheath and then a 
heat-shrink cover with a final spray of fluif on the mating male terminals. Overkill perhaps but 
I've never had a joint break or a bad contact yet :) This tip was given to me by a guy who was a 
whiz at sorting electrics on Fiats - but I don't think he ever did Fiat bodywork so I guess there 
could be lots of rotting Fiats still running around with fully operational electrics which, when you 
consider Magneti-Marelli electrics, is something of an "Lucasi-oxymoron" in its own right :)

Jonmac 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jan 14 09:04:03 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:04:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
Message-ID: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC>

The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure which
is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it wrong.


I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few
times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd do
that until there were no more air bubbles. 

The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant
gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you
OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder.
And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. 

So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder
CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter?

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Wed Jan 14 09:08:10 2009
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 09:08:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
In-Reply-To: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0901140808l5fe30e1ay3f8e1af401067ff6@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

I was taught to bleed brakes like they described in the article. If the
other way works for you, then why change. Go with what works for you and
what you are comfortable with.

Shawn

On Wed, Jan 14, 2009 at 9:04 AM, Bob Danielson <
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure
> which
> is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it
> wrong.
>
>
> I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few
> times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd
> do
> that until there were no more air bubbles.
>
> The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant
> gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you
> OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder.
> And repeat until there's no more air bubbles.
>
> So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder
> CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter?
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jan 14 10:33:59 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 11:33:59 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Brake Bleeding Process
References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC>
	<B5AFEE25030A47EB82F37D1CCE170080@newcomputer>
Message-ID: <002901c9766e$aacc84e0$2ea7a8c0@sunbeam>

use speed bleeders.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
To: "'Bob Danielson'" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:07 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process


> The Hemmings way is how I was taught to do it and it has always worked. 
> To
> leave the thing open while you pump the brake can suck air up through the
> bleeder valve.
>
> Joe
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 9:04 AM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack'
> Subject: [TR] Brake Bleeding Process
>
> The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure 
> which
> is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it 
> wrong.
>
>
> I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few
> times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd 
> do
> that until there were no more air bubbles.
>
> The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant
> gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you
> OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder.
> And repeat until there's no more air bubbles.
>
> So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder
> CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter?
>
> Thanks
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jan 14 10:42:59 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 12:42:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
Message-ID: <38F8F522F430446F9EF153A511C4E7DA@BOBSNEWPC>

Thanks everyone..... I've obviously been doing it wrong which explains why
it takes so long to get the bubbles out. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 11:04 AM
To: 'triumphs at autox.team.net'; '6-Pack'
Subject: Brake Bleeding Process

The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure which
is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it wrong.


I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few
times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd do
that until there were no more air bubbles. 

The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant
gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you
OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder.
And repeat until there's no more air bubbles. 

So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder
CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter?

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Jan 14 10:53:26 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 17:53:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
In-Reply-To: <38F8F522F430446F9EF153A511C4E7DA@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <38F8F522F430446F9EF153A511C4E7DA@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E2F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I'm not sure you have been doing it wrong vs different. Does that technique
not implement the same procedure that the speed bleeders use (open valve,
press pedal, close valve, release pedal) ?.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 12:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process

Thanks everyone..... I've obviously been doing it wrong which explains why
it takes so long to get the bubbles out.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Jan 14 11:10:11 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 13:10:11 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E2F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <20090114181011.CMC47.107424.root@hrndva-web24-z02>

Stan;

Speed Bleeders allow me to do the job by myself. Once the screw is opened and the pedal is pumped, fluid and air come out. But when I release the pedal, no air gets sucked back into the line. It's a one-way valve.... There's no need to keep opening and closing the screw, -- not until you're done. Very quick....

Dave


---- "Foster wrote: 
> I'm not sure you have been doing it wrong vs different. Does that technique
> not implement the same procedure that the speed bleeders use (open valve,
> press pedal, close valve, release pedal) ?.
> 
> Stan
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob Danielson
> Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 12:43 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack'
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
> 
> Thanks everyone..... I've obviously been doing it wrong which explains why
> it takes so long to get the bubbles out.
> 
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Jan 14 11:14:11 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 18:14:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
In-Reply-To: <20090114181011.CMC47.107424.root@hrndva-web24-z02>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E2F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<20090114181011.CMC47.107424.root@hrndva-web24-z02>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E3F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Yes, that was my point. The one way valve in the speed bleeder automates Bob's current process.

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave [mailto:forzion at maine.rr.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 1:10 PM
To: Bob Danielson; '6-Pack'; triumphs at autox.team.net; Foster, Stan (HP IT)
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process

Stan;

Speed Bleeders allow me to do the job by myself. Once the screw is opened and the pedal is pumped, fluid and air come out. But when I release the pedal, no air gets sucked back into the line. It's a one-way valve.... There's no need to keep opening and closing the screw, -- not until you're done. Very quick....

Dave

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Wed Jan 14 12:12:25 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:12:25 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
References: <76EEF1B7E0CA42DEA97EC3C50C34D063@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <F21D0248F0CF490AAB1028209BC52778@hp>

I always try to do it the Hemmings way,, but my wife is Polish so we end up 
doing it a mixture of ways...  Bob M


The Feb issue of Hemmings S&EC magazine has a brake bleeding procedure which
is different than what I've always done...so maybe I've been doing it wrong.


I've always opened the bleeder, had the wife gently pump the brakes a few
times and then hold the brake pedal down while I closed the bleeder. We'd do
that until there were no more air bubbles.

The Hemmings procedure starts with the bleeder CLOSED, while the assistant
gently pumps 5 or 6 times and then holds the pedal down. At this point you
OPEN the bleeder until the fluid stops flowing and then close the bleeder.
And repeat until there's no more air bubbles.

So..........do you pump the pedal and hold the pedal down with the bleeder
CLOSED or OPEN? Or doesn't it really matter?

Thanks
Bob

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jan 14 12:15:15 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 14:15:15 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E2F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <38F8F522F430446F9EF153A511C4E7DA@BOBSNEWPC>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E4F92E2F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <9987EFAEA680424D8636D5AC2D9C3261@BOBSNEWPC>

Well speed bleeders are waiting to be installed which prompted the questions
as I figure I'll be bleeding the brakes after installing them.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 12:53 PM
To: Bob Danielson; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack'
Subject: RE: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process

I'm not sure you have been doing it wrong vs different. Does that technique
not implement the same procedure that the speed bleeders use (open valve,
press pedal, close valve, release pedal) ?.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, January 14, 2009 12:43 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Bleeding Process

Thanks everyone..... I've obviously been doing it wrong which explains why
it takes so long to get the bubbles out. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Jan 14 13:19:59 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 15:19:59 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Brake Bleeding Process
Message-ID: <d5d.2f1f07af.369fa2ef@aol.com>

First of all I am glad to see a topic that gets as much attention as what  
tire size to use.  
I do the pressure on the pedal, open bleeder, and close bleeder while  
pressure is still on the line.  Repeat as necessary.
I also have a clear tube so I can see the bubbles.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Inauguration '09:  Get complete coverage from the nation's 
capital. (http://news.aol.com/main/politics/inauguration?ncid=emlcntusnews00000003)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Jan 14 15:07:53 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 22:07:53 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Updates on the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa website
Message-ID: <942E00A5F16D4412AFF9BDF136910D72@Bevan>

There are four new features on the website www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk at this moment:

1. A  photo of the Stag's distributor being checked for accuracy under various advance settings
2. The opportunity to make on-line donations to whichever of the three charities/non-profits you may 
want to support
3. A *slightly' revised map, and
4. A day by day breakout of where the Drive will be during July this year. A few things in terms of 
venues and dates need to be firmed up for August and September and as soon as this is done, I'll 
expand the page and notify the lists.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Jan 14 16:55:19 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 14 Jan 2009 18:55:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Route through central NY
In-Reply-To: <942E00A5F16D4412AFF9BDF136910D72@Bevan>
References: <942E00A5F16D4412AFF9BDF136910D72@Bevan>
Message-ID: <200901141855.19446.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Wednesday 14 January 2009 17:07:53 John Macartney wrote:
> There are four new features on the website www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
> at this moment:
>
> 1. A  photo of the Stag's distributor being checked for accuracy under
> various advance settings 2. The opportunity to make on-line donations to
> whichever of the three charities/non-profits you may want to support
> 3. A *slightly' revised map, and
> 4. A day by day breakout of where the Drive will be during July this year.
> A few things in terms of venues and dates need to be firmed up for August
> and September and as soon as this is done, I'll expand the page and notify
> the lists.
>
> Jonmac
>
John,

I see the new route has you passing through central NY in what looks like 
after your stop in BOston.

Do you have any idea of when you will be passing through Utica NY? I assume 
you will be on the Thruway (I90). 

It would be an honor to drive with you for awhile since you are not stopping 
here.

THanks

Bob  (1958 TR3, 1963 TR4, and  1972 TR6 (in restoration)

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Jan 16 09:34:45 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 08:34:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
Message-ID: <689386.95556.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I think I might have come up with a solution for the dreaded loss of the accelerator rod bushings for the TR6 -TR250 series.  The problem is the nylon bushing after a period of time goes away.  This creates a real mess, in that replacing it is no small task.  The entire assembly has to be removed and a new bushing FORCED into the 5/8" opening, more often than not ruining the new bushing.  Then replace the assembly.

My fix consists of two aluminum bearings, and a shaft collar.  The throttle lever would hold one in place and the other is held by the collar. the shaft collar will position the entire shaft assembly.  All work with exception of the interior cotter pin and washer can be done from the under hood.  I will make two bushings and bring them to the brunch.  I should have the collars Monday.  The aluminum bearings will hold the shaft in place tightly and make the peddle more responsive.  

John Horton.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jan 16 10:11:41 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 12:11:41 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <689386.95556.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <689386.95556.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9975B50E08BB4072823FD6950EE838DB@BOBSNEWPC>

That sounds surprisingly like the product Art Lipp and I worked on last year
that Art is now selling as part of his business. His kit includes: 2 Delrin
bushings, a Delrin washer, aluminum locking collar, cotter pin and a
grinding wheel. Here's his kit
http://www.trparts.com/newitems/accelerator.html

Here's my installation of it
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm and this page alone had
almost 2000 hits to it last year so it's been widely viewed.

This product was also widely published on the 6-Pack and Triumph Mail Lists
as well as in the 6-Pack and BCF forums, so I doubt that it's a surprise to
any of you. 

My view on these things is that the Triumph community and cottage industry
is relatively so small that we shouldn't be duplicating products that others
have already invested the time and money in: be it Fan Eliminator Kits,
Accelerator Shaft Bushings, Steering Column Bushings, Emergency Hood
Releases etc.... It's a shame the patent process is so expensive and
lengthy....

Just my 2 cents. 

Bob 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of johnehorton at yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 11:35 AM
To: 'members at dctra.orgDCTRA
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Problem.

I think I might have come up with a solution for the dreaded loss of the
accelerator rod bushings for the TR6 -TR250 series.  The problem is the
nylon bushing after a period of time goes away.  This creates a real mess,
in that replacing it is no small task.  The entire assembly has to be
removed and a new bushing FORCED into the 5/8" opening, more often than not
ruining the new bushing.  Then replace the assembly.

My fix consists of two aluminum bearings, and a shaft collar.  The throttle
lever would hold one in place and the other is held by the collar. the shaft
collar will position the entire shaft assembly.  All work with exception of
the interior cotter pin and washer can be done from the under hood.  I will
make two bushings and bring them to the brunch.  I should have the collars
Monday.  The aluminum bearings will hold the shaft in place tightly and make
the peddle more responsive.  

John Horton.
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri Jan 16 12:30:21 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 14:30:21 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <9975B50E08BB4072823FD6950EE838DB@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <20090116193021.88ZTO.126136.root@hrndva-web25-z02>

   John; 
 
I'd have to agree with Bob, here. Seems like you have offered numerous copies of 
items previously developed and sold by others. Why not "come up with" an 
[original] idea of your own? 
 
Why doesn't someone fabricate the small metal tranny tunnel covers for the right 
angle speedo drive or the OD solenoid? I'm sure there are many other Six parts 
people need where no one has yet (or still does) brought them to market? 
 
Dave 
'74-Six  

---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: 

> That sounds surprisingly like the product Art Lipp and I worked on last year
> that Art is now selling as part of his business. His kit includes: 2 Delrin
> bushings, a Delrin washer, aluminum locking collar, cotter pin and a
> grinding wheel. Here's his kit
> http://www.trparts.com/newitems/accelerator.html
> 
> Here's my installation of it
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm and this page alone had
> almost 2000 hits to it last year so it's been widely viewed.
> 
> This product was also widely published on the 6-Pack and Triumph Mail Lists
> as well as in the 6-Pack and BCF forums, so I doubt that it's a surprise to
> any of you. 
> 
> My view on these things is that the Triumph community and cottage industry
> is relatively so small that we shouldn't be duplicating products that others
> have already invested the time and money in: be it Fan Eliminator Kits,
> Accelerator Shaft Bushings, Steering Column Bushings, Emergency Hood
> Releases etc.... It's a shame the patent process is so expensive and
> lengthy....
> 
> Just my 2 cents. 
> 
> Bob 
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com  Fri Jan 16 12:38:23 2009
From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 14:38:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <20090116193021.88ZTO.126136.root@hrndva-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <OFB7D88583.1A1B30E0-ON85257540.006BA7A2-85257540.006BE27A@us.ibm.com>

I'll second that idea. The tranny tunnel covers cannot be found.  If I had
the skills and equipment I'd manufacture those myself.  Anybody have any of
these covers to get rid of?  email me!

Dave




             Dave
             <forzion at maine.rr
             .com>                                                      To
             Sent by:                  Bob Danielson
             6pack-bounces at aut         <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>,
             ox.team.net               johnehorton at yahoo.com,
                                       members at dctra.org
                                                                        cc
             01/16/2009 02:30          lipp04 at yahoo.com,
             PM                        6pack at autox.team.net
                                                                   Subject
                                       Re: [6pack] Problem.










   John;

I'd have to agree with Bob, here. Seems like you have offered numerous
copies of
items previously developed and sold by others. Why not "come up with" an
[original] idea of your own?

Why doesn't someone fabricate the small metal tranny tunnel covers for the
right
angle speedo drive or the OD solenoid? I'm sure there are many other Six
parts
people need where no one has yet (or still does) brought them to market?

Dave
'74-Six

---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> That sounds surprisingly like the product Art Lipp and I worked on last
year
> that Art is now selling as part of his business. His kit includes: 2
Delrin
> bushings, a Delrin washer, aluminum locking collar, cotter pin and a
> grinding wheel. Here's his kit
> http://www.trparts.com/newitems/accelerator.html
>
> Here's my installation of it
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm and this page alone
had
> almost 2000 hits to it last year so it's been widely viewed.
>
> This product was also widely published on the 6-Pack and Triumph Mail
Lists
> as well as in the 6-Pack and BCF forums, so I doubt that it's a surprise
to
> any of you.
>
> My view on these things is that the Triumph community and cottage
industry
> is relatively so small that we shouldn't be duplicating products that
others
> have already invested the time and money in: be it Fan Eliminator Kits,
> Accelerator Shaft Bushings, Steering Column Bushings, Emergency Hood
> Releases etc.... It's a shame the patent process is so expensive and
> lengthy....
>
> Just my 2 cents.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as dbjohnso at us.ibm.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of graycol.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of pic15629.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ecblank.gif]

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Fri Jan 16 13:31:04 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 15:31:04 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <20090116193021.88ZTO.126136.root@hrndva-web25-z02>
References: <9975B50E08BB4072823FD6950EE838DB@BOBSNEWPC>
	<20090116193021.88ZTO.126136.root@hrndva-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <79C5923178984D9695B25CF0E6D140DC@Robert>

Snip. Why doesn't someone fabricate the small metal tranny tunnel covers for
the right 
angle speedo drive or the OD solenoid? I'm sure there are many other Six
parts 
people need where no one has yet (or still does) brought them to market?


I did. I needed a metal cover for the tunnel on my TR3A. I found a brass
plate the local hardware store. Cut the top and rounded it off. Used 5 sheet
metal screws to attach it over the heat shield material and bent it to
shape. Works so good that I also cut out a hole for the pressure gauge to
fit though so I don't have to remove the cover when I want to check
everything. 

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri Jan 16 14:58:52 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 16:58:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <OFB7D88583.1A1B30E0-ON85257540.006BA7A2-85257540.006BE27A@us.ibm.com>
References: <OFB7D88583.1A1B30E0-ON85257540.006BA7A2-85257540.006BE27A@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com>

John;

You apparently have time to make copies of other people's part, 
including Art Lipp's
and Patton Machine products. What the sense and where's the ethics of 
THAT? Before
you decide to "create" an item, check to see if anyone's already making 
it. If there is,
don't copy it! Simple, no?

Dave


Subject: 	Re: [6pack] Problem.
Date: 	Fri, 16 Jan 2009 12:14:35 -0800 (PST)
From: 	<johnehorton at yahoo.com>
To: 	Dave <forzion at maine.rr.com>
References: 	<20090116192653.51PQX.126093.root at hrndva-web25-z02>



Dave.  I make my shop available to the club members in this area to do 
projects. I have made parts runs for our members and offered left over 
sets.  I run a medium corporation and do not have time to make $20.00 
parts. I stopped making the TR6 rear shock adapters a year ago. The part 
I  and a friend worked on without benefit of looking at Art's or Bob's 
websites.  I adapted bearings and collars so the entire project can be 
done in about 15 minutes from under the hood. I hate working in very 
tight spaces.  When I do the final fittment I will put the info on the 
web and you can do what you want with it.  John Horton   


David B Johnson wrote:

> I'll second that idea. The tranny tunnel covers cannot be found. If I 
> had the skills and equipment I'd manufacture those myself. Anybody 
> have any of these covers to get rid of? email me!
>
> Dave
>
> Inactive hide details for Dave <forzion at maine.rr.com>Dave 
> <forzion at maine.rr.com>
>
>
>                         Dave <forzion at maine.rr.com>
>                         Sent by: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
>
>                         01/16/2009 02:30 PM
>
> 	
>
> To
> 	
> Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>, johnehorton at yahoo.com, 
> members at dctra.org
>
> cc
> 	
> lipp04 at yahoo.com, 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Subject
> 	
> Re: [6pack] Problem.
>
> 	
>
>
>    John;
>
> I'd have to agree with Bob, here. Seems like you have offered numerous 
> copies of
> items previously developed and sold by others. Why not "come up with" an
> [original] idea of your own?
>
> Why doesn't someone fabricate the small metal tranny tunnel covers for 
> the right
> angle speedo drive or the OD solenoid? I'm sure there are many other 
> Six parts
> people need where no one has yet (or still does) brought them to market?
>
> Dave
> '74-Six  

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Jan 16 15:05:46 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 17:05:46 EST
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
Message-ID: <cf4.45bc62f4.36a25eba@aol.com>

In a message dated 1/16/2009 2:41:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dbjohnso at us.ibm.com writes:

Anybody  have any of
these covers to get rid of?  email  me!

Dave



Hey Dave, 
I have one but you can't have it. It is a real one in good shape  and will 
going on my TR250 which is currently in pieces and under  restoration (again).  
BTW Guys, I'm Back after about a year and a half  absence.  I believe I was 
deleted somehow from the 6PACK List some time ago  when there was computer 
trouble.  First I have heard of the bushing kit and  yes I want one for the 
originals are BS %*#%$$#! I will take the  deduction.
 
I agree we should reward those who first design new improvements to our  
cars.  I have had several people try to sell me those emergency Bonnet  release 
things.  In fact I had someone give me one that's still in the  glove box of the 
Six.  Now, I will not take the deduction on that  one.  I just make sure that 
little barrel safety thing is on my cable as  original. 
 
Cheers,
Darrell
**************Inauguration '09: Get complete coverage from the nation's 
capital.(http://www.aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000027)

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Fri Jan 16 15:27:09 2009
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 16:27:09 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Accelerator Bushings
Message-ID: <DB6C8B4A988E44D9B22725FBF017D533@stevekirsisPC>

I have read all these elaborate designs and configurations for accelerator
bushings and would like to add my design, which is a 1 inch piece of 3/8" fuel
line slid over the shaft and squeezed very easily into the opening for the
bushings. Has held very nicely on my 2 award winning TR-6s and never noticed
by the judges. Both cars have them and after 5 years show no signs of wear.
Pedal movement has remained free and easy. Just my 2 cents worth. Steve Kirsis
'70 Damson and '75 Pimento with original A/C. The job could probably be made
easier by slicing the fuel line and applying it over the shaft near the
opening, but I have done the job by cleaning the shaft and sliding the line
over the shaft from the passenger side--of course this involves disconnecting
the shaft, a very simple non frustrating job.

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Fri Jan 16 15:34:05 2009
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 16:34:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Accelerator Bushings
Message-ID: <9A8305619E314CE293B1FF26D4072393@stevekirsisPC>

Correction, I just measured the line length and it is more like 1/2 to 3/4"
long. Steve Kirsis.

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri Jan 16 16:00:25 2009
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 15:00:25 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>

What if John's is better, or easier to install? Or maybe Steve's is
better and this whole discussion isn't necessary.  I don't think one
solution to a problem should foreclose further consideration of it.
We'd still be making tools out of bone it that were the case.

We should all be supportive of those who take the time and effort to be
innovative but when new ideas or new versions of old ideas are
suggested, we should ask questions about whether its actually better or
not.  I see on Bob's website on this issue there a number of suggested
remedies but he likes the delrin option the best.  Why not ask John why
his is better?

Bob Clark


John;

You apparently have time to make copies of other people's part,
including Art Lipp's
and Patton Machine products. What the sense and where's the ethics of
THAT? Before
you decide to "create" an item, check to see if anyone's already making
it. If there is,
don't copy it! Simple, no?

Dave


Subject: 	Re: [6pack] Problem.
Date: 	Fri, 16 Jan 2009 12:14:35 -0800 (PST)
From: 	<johnehorton at yahoo.com>
To: 	Dave <forzion at maine.rr.com>
References: 	<20090116192653.51PQX.126093.root at hrndva-web25-z02>



Dave.  I make my shop available to the club members in this area to do
projects. I have made parts runs for our members and offered left over
sets.  I run a medium corporation and do not have time to make $20.00
parts. I stopped making the TR6 rear shock adapters a year ago. The part

I  and a friend worked on without benefit of looking at Art's or Bob's
websites.  I adapted bearings and collars so the entire project can be
done in about 15 minutes from under the hood. I hate working in very
tight spaces.  When I do the final fittment I will put the info on the
web and you can do what you want with it.  John Horton


David B Johnson wrote:

> I'll second that idea. The tranny tunnel covers cannot be found. If I
> had the skills and equipment I'd manufacture those myself. Anybody
> have any of these covers to get rid of? email me!
>
> Dave
>
> Inactive hide details for Dave <forzion at maine.rr.com>Dave
> <forzion at maine.rr.com>
>
>
>                         Dave <forzion at maine.rr.com>
>                         Sent by: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
>
>                         01/16/2009 02:30 PM
>
>
>
> To
>
> Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>, johnehorton at yahoo.com,
> members at dctra.org
>
> cc
>
> lipp04 at yahoo.com, 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> Subject
>
> Re: [6pack] Problem.
>
>
>
>
>    John;
>
> I'd have to agree with Bob, here. Seems like you have offered numerous
> copies of
> items previously developed and sold by others. Why not "come up with"
an
> [original] idea of your own?
>
> Why doesn't someone fabricate the small metal tranny tunnel covers for
> the right
> angle speedo drive or the OD solenoid? I'm sure there are many other
> Six parts
> people need where no one has yet (or still does) brought them to
market?
>
> Dave
> '74-Six
You are subscribed as rclark at robertsonclark.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Jan 16 16:39:16 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 23:39:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E58805A5@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I think the problem is that we are a small community and when people like Art
and Rick and others make the investment to design unique solutions and tool up
to make them at very affordable process they have little incentive to continue
doing that if someone else clones their ideas and then undercuts their price
without having to eat the startup costs. John has done nothing illegal and he
may think he has done nothing wrong but to some of us it just doesn't seem
fair and its not like we don't have other opportunities for people to
innovate.

Add me to the list of potential tranny cover bump customers.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert N. Clark
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 6:00 PM
To: forzion at maine.rr.com; David B Johnson
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Problem.

What if John's is better, or easier to install? Or maybe Steve's is
better and this whole discussion isn't necessary.  I don't think one
solution to a problem should foreclose further consideration of it.
We'd still be making tools out of bone it that were the case.

We should all be supportive of those who take the time and effort to be
innovative but when new ideas or new versions of old ideas are
suggested, we should ask questions about whether its actually better or
not.  I see on Bob's website on this issue there a number of suggested
remedies but he likes the delrin option the best.  Why not ask John why
his is better?

Bob Clark

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Fri Jan 16 16:43:44 2009
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 00:43:44 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAFw5UJqdQ5dIrrc0dg+Q2GYBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Well said, Bob. And you judges, I bet you all have bought one or another
Chinese copied stuff although there was an original item (more pricey)
available. Come to think about that.

Eric
Heinsberg/Germany

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert N. Clark
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 12:00 AM
To: forzion at maine.rr.com; David B Johnson
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Problem.

What if John's is better, or easier to install? Or maybe Steve's is better
and this whole discussion isn't necessary.  I don't think one solution to a
problem should foreclose further consideration of it.
We'd still be making tools out of bone it that were the case.

We should all be supportive of those who take the time and effort to be
innovative but when new ideas or new versions of old ideas are suggested, we
should ask questions about whether its actually better or not.  I see on
Bob's website on this issue there a number of suggested remedies but he
likes the delrin option the best.  Why not ask John why his is better?

Bob Clark


John;

You apparently have time to make copies of other people's part, including
Art Lipp's and Patton Machine products. What the sense and where's the
ethics of THAT? Before you decide to "create" an item, check to see if
anyone's already making it. If there is, don't copy it! Simple, no?

Dave

From grant at bowtie6.com  Fri Jan 16 16:53:12 2009
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 18:53:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>

>>  You apparently have time to make copies of other people's part,
including Art Lipp's and Patton Machine 
>>  products. What the sense and where's the ethics of THAT? Before you
decide to "create" an item, check to see >>  if anyone's already making it.
If there is, don't copy it! Simple, no?

What is wrong with "making" parts, perhaps a copy of someone else's part
while improving it or making it suit your specific needs?  You mean to tell
me that one must 'check around' and see if a part is already being made and
if so then be forced to buy that part rather than making your own?  No
offense but the way I see things, if one has the equipment, ingenuity,
creativity and intelligence to make your own then there is no 'ethics' to
worry about!  I'll make my own part, no questions asked!

Joe

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Fri Jan 16 17:49:27 2009
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 19:49:27 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Garagemahall anyone?
Message-ID: <B360F0AD-DCC2-4886-BD3B-7C6EB00064A4@mindspring.com>

It's cold, in fact, it's damn cold most everywhere which tends to make  
the mind wander.  A couple of years ago I put together photos on my  
website of people's garages where our fellow Triumph drivers wile away  
the time.  Sometimes you could barely see the cars while others looked  
cleaner than most restaurants I've eaten in.  So if you haven't  
contributed before or have an updated photo or just have a large mound  
under the snow where your garage used to be then feel free to add them  
to the collection.  The "Garagemahall" photos from years past can be  
found at:  http://www.ralittle2.com/garagemahall.html.


Photos can be sent to this email address.

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jan 16 18:47:23 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 20:47:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>
References: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com><C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>
Message-ID: <C6FE93EA75A54A6593FC44F7EF907004@BOBSNEWPC>

Joe & Bob.......I have no problem with someone making a part for their own
use, but that's not what we're talking about here. 

I also have absolutely no problem with someone taking a product, improving
it, upgrading it, making it easier to install etc. A great example is Joe
Cannon's emergency hood release that is out in the public domain and can be
made for about $3 or you can buy a much improved, smoother working and
beautiful piece of machining from Francois for significantly more money. Now
if someone takes all of Francois' ideas and "steals" them because they feel
they can sell it cheaper, I have a problem with that. If you want to cobble
one up for yourself that's one thing but to take someone's work and
duplicate it with no attempt at making it better.........that's something
else. A perfect example is Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit. The concept and
design are Rick's, though I do remember someone on the List saying they did
the same thing with a big washer and a big bolt.... Anyhow, Rick's kit has
been outright copied and is being sold on eBay & promoted in the 6-Pack
Vendor area for $5 less than Rick charges. No attempt to improve upon it or
even to make it look different...just copied because it's not a difficult
piece to machine. Sorry, but that's just not right when we're dealing with a
small cottage industry in a fairly tight knit Triumph community. What's
really sad is when a new good idea comes along, like the Trailing Arm Repair
Kit, and Rick's immediate reaction is....."I wonder how long it will take
before someone steals the idea and undercuts me". That's when we all get
hurt because new improved products will stop being produced. 

Maybe this accelerator shaft kit will be an easier to install and a much
improved design over Art Lipps, and if that's the case, the market will
decide....as it should.

And BTW....I have no financial interest in any of these products, contrary
to what some people may think. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joseph Grant

What is wrong with "making" parts, perhaps a copy of someone else's part
while improving it or making it suit your specific needs?  You mean to tell
me that one must 'check around' and see if a part is already being made and
if so then be forced to buy that part rather than making your own?  No
offense but the way I see things, if one has the equipment, ingenuity,
creativity and intelligence to make your own then there is no 'ethics' to
worry about!  I'll make my own part, no questions asked!

Joe

From grant at bowtie6.com  Fri Jan 16 19:37:10 2009
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 21:37:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <C6FE93EA75A54A6593FC44F7EF907004@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com><C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>
	<C6FE93EA75A54A6593FC44F7EF907004@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <000901c9784c$7f9aaa60$7ecfff20$@com>

Free market economy.

Let me ask this:  In today's mail I got the new issue of British Motoring
from Moss.  Cover has a supercharger kit picture.  Does this mean that Moss
motors should feel "guilty" because Sal Vespertino sells/sold a supercharger
kit similar to that?  Or perhaps the other way around?

Just some interesting food for thought.  

Joe

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Jan 16 19:45:06 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 18:45:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Bushing.
Message-ID: <775949.13884.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

OK girls,
I came home from my office and whittled out a set of the controversial bushing.  Here is my theory.  ALL existing "kits' (by the way, copies of each other) are hard to install and require dis assembly of the throttle linkage.  Mine, does not require taking ANYTHING apart. You pull the cotter pin out of the end of the shaft under the dash board,  then slide the new bushing into the hole and over the shaft.  Then slide the other bushing into the hole at the drivers side.  

Assemble the shaft collar  loosely over the shaft and slide the other bushing into the hole the nylon bushing fell out of. Push the collar up to the bushing and position it to hold the entire assembly semi tight.  Then tighten the two allen screws.  Walla you are done. Total time about 10 minutes.  

If anyone wants one, I might make a set. But I don't want to copy someone's  kit.  How long till someone wants to sell these?

John Horton

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bush.JPG]

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Fri Jan 16 19:45:24 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 21:45:24 EST
Subject: [6pack] Garagemahall anyone?
Message-ID: <d40.33de2aa1.36a2a044@aol.com>

It would be a good time to do it Ashford.  My Triumph Coach House in  the 
woods is buried by a foot or more of snow.  I trudged out at lunch  today just to 
fill one of the bird feeders for my overweight and  spoiled Cardinals who 
were totally out of food and just flying around  wondering if I would ever show 
up. Temperatures were -10 this morning and warmed  up to zero this morning.  So 
much for Global Worming!
Darrell

**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)

From mwpruitt at comcast.net  Fri Jan 16 19:57:00 2009
From: mwpruitt at comcast.net (Mark Pruitt)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 21:57:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <C6FE93EA75A54A6593FC44F7EF907004@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com><C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>
	<C6FE93EA75A54A6593FC44F7EF907004@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <89783CC5-8368-41BA-826B-0FCCE9AD85E2@comcast.net>

Whatever.... I have 3 triumphs (2 TR6's and 1 TR4) and if someone  
wants to come up with something that improves what's out there, great!  
No one has a patent on any of this stuff. If someone wants to do their  
on thing, so be it and it is what it is.

The way I see it, the more the better. Since we are a small community  
is really a positive for John's creative thinking, not a reason to  
discredit him.

I've been on this list for about 10 years, and enjoy the threads and  
lurk in the background most of the time. However, I felt the need to  
respond on this attempt to squash the ideas of a fellow TR enthusiast.

Do some of you think you have the elitist mentality and are the gods  
of the Triumph community? I think not....

We should all have the sense that we are here to help each other, not  
to belittle what someone is trying to do to help all of us out.

Just my two cents, for what it's worth!

Mark

On Jan 16, 2009, at 8:47 PM, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Joe & Bob.......I have no problem with someone making a part for  
> their own
> use, but that's not what we're talking about here.
>
> I also have absolutely no problem with someone taking a product,  
> improving
> it, upgrading it, making it easier to install etc. A great example  
> is Joe
> Cannon's emergency hood release that is out in the public domain and  
> can be
> made for about $3 or you can buy a much improved, smoother working and
> beautiful piece of machining from Francois for significantly more  
> money. Now
> if someone takes all of Francois' ideas and "steals" them because  
> they feel
> they can sell it cheaper, I have a problem with that. If you want to  
> cobble
> one up for yourself that's one thing but to take someone's work and
> duplicate it with no attempt at making it better.........that's  
> something
> else. A perfect example is Rick Patton's Fan Eliminator Kit. The  
> concept and
> design are Rick's, though I do remember someone on the List saying  
> they did
> the same thing with a big washer and a big bolt.... Anyhow, Rick's  
> kit has
> been outright copied and is being sold on eBay & promoted in the 6- 
> Pack
> Vendor area for $5 less than Rick charges. No attempt to improve  
> upon it or
> even to make it look different...just copied because it's not a  
> difficult
> piece to machine. Sorry, but that's just not right when we're  
> dealing with a
> small cottage industry in a fairly tight knit Triumph community.  
> What's
> really sad is when a new good idea comes along, like the Trailing  
> Arm Repair
> Kit, and Rick's immediate reaction is....."I wonder how long it will  
> take
> before someone steals the idea and undercuts me". That's when we all  
> get
> hurt because new improved products will stop being produced.

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri Jan 16 20:47:48 2009
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Fri, 16 Jan 2009 22:47:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  Bushing.
Message-ID: <3F4DBC122098467C888DB462A11FB5D3@D1TG6Y71>

John

My twopennyworth .... this is a very small mountain (or maybe a bump) being 
made from a
 tiny molehill  .... in the Triumph community, there are a very few people
 who have the technical ability and the machining capability to make
 mechanical improvement items.  As much as they are not large in number, as
 far as I can see, they very often share their thoughts and designs with the
 great and good, and, as a result, are then are often asked to make their
 creations for others without the ability or resources.

 I really enjoy machining items for my car, but I do not have any interest 
in
 manufacturing for sales or for others, and in fact, when it is easier and
 cheaper for me to go to someone else, like Rick Patton for his super fan
 eliminator kit ... which he sells for less than I could make it, I do so.
 But as a hobbyist, who has made a lot of things for the Triumph community, 
I
 share ... my design for the "Beast" hub puller has been made by lots of
 others ... great!  I have done nothing more that shared my experience with
 like minded folks.  I don't want anything back ... and since my email has
 changed from that on the plans, I don't even get "thank you's" any more.

 This isn't nanotechnology or designer drugs, it simple bits of metal that 
we
 have fashioned to fix a problem ... sharing is part of the process.  If
 someone ever thought they would be able to run a business on the making of
 small bits for the Triumph community, I fear they are sorely mistaken, and
 given that the number of us with easy access to mills and lathes is very
 small, this is a storm in a teacup.

 **************************************
 Tony Gordon
 72 TR6
**************************************
(ps ... I really would like the dimensions!)

>
>
>> OK girls,
>> I came home from my office and whittled out a set of the controversial 
>> bushing.  Here is my theory.  ALL existing "kits' (by the way, copies of 
>> each other) are hard to install and require dis assembly of the throttle 
>> linkage.  Mine, does not require taking ANYTHING apart. You pull the 
>> cotter pin out of the end of the shaft under the dash board,  then slide 
>> the new bushing into the hole and over the shaft.  Then slide the other 
>> bushing into the hole at the drivers side.
>>
>> Assemble the shaft collar  loosely over the shaft and slide the other 
>> bushing into the hole the nylon bushing fell out of. Push the collar up 
>> to the bushing and position it to hold the entire assembly semi tight. 
>> Then tighten the two allen screws.  Walla you are done. Total time about 
>> 10 minutes.
>>
>> If anyone wants one, I might make a set. But I don't want to copy 
>> someone's  kit.  How long till someone wants to sell these?
>>
>> John Horton

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Sat Jan 17 01:35:07 2009
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 03:35:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>
References: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>
Message-ID: <4971983B.6080406@suscom-maine.net>

Hello Joe,

I thought it time for me to put in my two cents worth as I've been 
mentioned several times in this thread. Many of you know I have been 
making Triumph and other parts for a number of years. It's a very small 
cottage industry type business that I operate part time without any 
employees. It does throw off a little money from time to time and that 
is usually just used to support my tool or LBC habit. One of the major 
benefits is that it keeps me from watching TV all night.

Joe, you asked what is wrong with making your own parts? Absolutely 
nothing and I realize it gives a sense of pride to have those parts on 
your car. I get the same feeling at a car show when I see my parts on 
somebody's pride and joy. That's how I started out, making parts for my 
own TR6. Making parts for your car is to admired and I know that you 
have made many.

What does piss me off is to find someone making nearly exact copies of 
my parts and COMPETING against me.  It may not be politically correct to 
admit, but it's the truth. It matters little if it's a List member or a 
big company.

Tonight I finished up a batch of six TR6 trailing arm jig kits at a low 
introductory price. They are finally ready to ship and after adding up 
just materials and shipping It figures out to $9.66 an hour but that's 
before any shop costs. No electricity, no tooling costs, no recovery for 
the $14K CNC mill or the lathe, nothing for jig making, drawings, 
programming, prototyping, etc. 

Maybe  you've got a point Joe, I should let someone else make these 
parts. Or better yet wait till someone else comes up with a design and 
just copy them. Think of the time and money saved and I could sell them 
cheaper. No that won't happen. Besides if we all sit around waiting 
there won't be any new designs.

I can't speak for the other little guys but you can bet they take pride 
in their designs and parts even if they choose to stay out of this fray. 
In the meantime I'm going to continue looking for new and innovative 
designs for these LBC's and there are a few new things coming soon. OK, 
down of the soapbox.

So who's got some garage pictures?

Rick Patton
rick at pattonmachine.com



Joseph Grant wrote:
>>>  You apparently have time to make copies of other people's part,
>>>       
> including Art Lipp's and Patton Machine 
>   
>>>  products. What the sense and where's the ethics of THAT? Before you
>>>       
> decide to "create" an item, check to see >>  if anyone's already making it.
> If there is, don't copy it! Simple, no?
>
> What is wrong with "making" parts, perhaps a copy of someone else's part
> while improving it or making it suit your specific needs?  You mean to tell
> me that one must 'check around' and see if a part is already being made and
> if so then be forced to buy that part rather than making your own?  No
> offense but the way I see things, if one has the equipment, ingenuity,
> creativity and intelligence to make your own then there is no 'ethics' to
> worry about!  I'll make my own part, no questions asked!
>
> Joe

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 06:17:27 2009
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 05:17:27 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Throttle shaft bushings
Message-ID: <554560.98892.qm@web51411.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Nice try to change the conversation Ashford.  
About 6 or 8 years ago there was a thread on this list about brass throttle
shaft bushings.  I didn't research the list archives on this but I suspect
that it could be found easily.  Nevertheless the end result was that there are
brass bushings available very cheaply from some parts house that have the
correct inside and outside diameter for the throttle shaft.  These have a lip
on one end and can be installed in the same simple and quick way that someone
just described for their home made piece.  The cost for teh brass bushings was
minimal so I ordered 10.  I used two for my car and gave the remaining eight
out to club members.  No need to re-invent the wheel so to speak and there is
no way you can make them as cheaply from scratch.  After 5 years they still
work like new. 
Now about the Garagemahal project!!
 
Mike Lunsford, 17970 TR 6 with Rick's TBI and fan elemination kit

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Sat Jan 17 06:34:22 2009
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:34:22 -0500
Subject: [6pack] your post
Message-ID: <649FEDDABA45489DBA257AB0763D20DF@randyPC>

morning rick,
HURRAH for you post.
once i get my tr to ny from nc i'll be purchasing a fan elim kit from you, 
not a cheaper/bootlegged copy
randy sandner 

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 07:26:58 2009
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 06:26:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Throttle shaft bushings
References: <554560.98892.qm@web51411.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <646377.58381.qm@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Mike

You are correct about the thread for the brass bushings, If not mistaken
it is something Nelson Riddell from the Buckeye club came up with. As a club
we went together and bought a bunch with a locking collar. We still have a
few.

The one thing that we all have to watch out for here, and I don't think
this item was the reason, is that something like this caused a good member to
halt all connection, that I know of, with this list and the Triumph community
as a whole. We are a small organization, we need to praise individuals that
help continue this hobby. We also need to watch the criticism so as not to
lose the creativity, even if we as individuals do not see it as a benefit
overall.   

Dale




________________________________
From: michael lunsford
<mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, January 17,
2009 8:17:27 AM
Subject: [6pack] Throttle shaft bushings

Nice try to change
the conversation Ashford.  
About 6 or 8 years ago there was a thread on this
list about brass throttle
shaft bushings.  I didn't research the list archives
on this but I suspect
that it could be found easily.  Nevertheless the end
result was that there are
brass bushings available very cheaply from some
parts house that have the
correct inside and outside diameter for the throttle
shaft.  These have a lip
on one end and can be installed in the same simple
and quick way that someone
just described for their home made piece.  The cost
for teh brass bushings was
minimal so I ordered 10.  I used two for my car and
gave the remaining eight
out to club members.  No need to re-invent the wheel
so to speak and there is
no way you can make them as cheaply from scratch. 
After 5 years they still
work like new. 
Now about the Garagemahal project!!
Mike Lunsford, 17970 TR 6 with Rick's TBI and fan elemination kit
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Jan 17 07:35:55 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 09:35:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Garagemahall anyone?
In-Reply-To: <B360F0AD-DCC2-4886-BD3B-7C6EB00064A4@mindspring.com>
References: <B360F0AD-DCC2-4886-BD3B-7C6EB00064A4@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <200901170935.55915.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Friday 16 January 2009 19:49:27 Ashford Little wrote:
> It's cold, in fact, it's damn cold most everywhere which tends to make
> the mind wander.  A couple of years ago I put together photos on my
> website of people's garages where our fellow Triumph drivers wile away
> the time.  Sometimes you could barely see the cars while others looked
> cleaner than most restaurants I've eaten in.  So if you haven't
> contributed before or have an updated photo or just have a large mound
> under the snow where your garage used to be then feel free to add them
> to the collection.  The "Garagemahall" photos from years past can be
> found at:  http://www.ralittle2.com/garagemahall.html.
>> _______________________________________________

> Photos can be sent to this email address.
>
> Ashford Little
> '70 TR6
Ashford,

Funny, the last time you sent out this email, I had just added a 63 TR4 
project to the garage!

Now you must have a spy in my neighborhood as I have now added a 72 TR6 
project to the garage!

I will try to get out in the garage today to send you an update, but the 3 is 
covered as well as the bikes but the 6 project is in the back, frame on one 
side and the body  (on saw horses) on the other. Most parts are in the 
cellar. The 4 is at my moms garage as I don't have the room with the 6 in 
restoration.

But it is still below zero outside so we will see.

Bob

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Jan 17 08:02:24 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 10:02:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Problem.
In-Reply-To: <000901c9784c$7f9aaa60$7ecfff20$@com>
References: <4971031C.8050200@maine.rr.com><C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD88A@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<000001c97835$9b73d7f0$d25b87d0$@com>
	<C6FE93EA75A54A6593FC44F7EF907004@BOBSNEWPC>
	<000901c9784c$7f9aaa60$7ecfff20$@com>
Message-ID: <0B57A3AA6FBD4DA6BF3280681C15C986@BOBSNEWPC>

I started this.... And like Joe...this will be my last post on the subject.
Everyone has a different opinion and strong feeling both ways, as we should.


Mike Lunsford commented that people have been using brass bushing for the
accelerator shaft conversion for years and that it's been widely publicized
on the Mail Lists. That's how I got started on the problem with those
bushings. They weren't a drop in fit (needing to be drilled out) and
suggested that Art put together a kit that would be a perfect drop in kit.
His kit does just that....no mods required.

Johnny Horton has now clarified that his design doesn't even require removal
of the shaft. If so.....that is an improvement over Art's design. That's a
good thing and it will give people a choice.

I have no problem with people making parts for their own cars and envy their
machining and welding ability. I wish people like Joe Grant and Rick Patton
lived closer to me so I could hang out at their house!

Where I have a problem is the outright "theft" of someone's design,
especially in a small community like the LBC community. We've used Rick
Patton's $30 Fan Eliminator Kit as an example mostly because it is a simple
design, easy to steal, make and sell. And someone has done just that with no
attempt at improving on it. So let me go to the other cost extreme. Richard
Good has spent lots of time and money to come up with the brackets and
adapters for his $400 Nissan differential conversion. I'm sure someone with
the talent and means could buy his kit, have the brackets and adapters
duplicated (not improved or modified, just duplicated) and sell it for less
then Richard charges. Are we really saying that's OK to do? 

As for the supercharger example, if the Moss kit was an exact copy of Sal's
design with no improvements or upgrades then I'd be buying from Sal. But if
it's made up of different components, brackets, belts, carbs etc, includes
technical support...........then we now have another option for
supercharging our cars. Just like we have at least 5 different tube shock
conversion kits out there.....choice is good.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 08:42:36 2009
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 07:42:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Throttle shaft bushings
Message-ID: <465703.28120.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

After recieving several messages about my last posting (see below) I was
reminded that Buckeye Triumphs,
at http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/AccBearing/AccBearing.htm was the
source of the information I used for the bronze bushings I put in my car.  I
must also correct the cost since I think the bushings cost me about $1.50 each
instead of $1.00.  I did not use any clip to secure the bushing and the
friction fit has worked without any problems for over 5 years.  They took
about 10 minutes to install.
 
Mike
 
<<<Nice try to change the conversation Ashford.  
About 6 or 8 years ago there was a thread on this list about brass throttle
shaft bushings.  I didn't research the list archives on this but I suspect
that it could be found easily.  Nevertheless the end result was that there are
brass bushings available very cheaply from some parts house that have the
correct inside and outside diameter for the throttle shaft.  These have a lip
on one end and can be installed in the same simple and quick way that someone
just described for their home made piece.  The cost for teh brass bushings was
minimal so I ordered 10.  I used two for my car and gave the remaining eight
out to club members.  No need to re-invent the wheel so to speak and there is
no way you can make them as cheaply from scratch.  After 5 years they still
work like new. 
Now about the Garagemahal project!!
 
Mike Lunsford, 17970 TR 6 with Rick's TBI and fan elemination kit>>>>

he source of the initial

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 09:08:54 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:08:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  Problem.
Message-ID: <430809.71432.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I thought all might see this "thread". John H.




From: David Friedlander <forzion at maine.rr.com>
To: johnehorton at yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 8:21:57 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Problem.

 "Improve it?" You don't seem to be offering improvements, just copies,
like Stan Foster has said. I guess competition among major shops is one
thing but we're talking cottage industries. What you haven't seemed to
answer is the question of why you don't come up with your own ideas,
but instead simply copy those of others who have already put in much
time, effort and expense. What's YOUR value add? Doesn't take much
ingenuity to copy. Like Stan said, it makes the other guy feel like
"why bother? I'll make design it, but John Horton will probably just
copy it and try to undersell me." I'm all for innovation. Create
something original. If it's good, maybe I'll buy it! Not sure if
somebody already makes it? We're a small community: Just ask the list.
Make some speedo angle drive and OD solenoid covers for the tranny
tunnel; lots of folks have already said they'd buy 'em.

Dave


johnehorton at yahoo.com wrote:

Dave, I can't let this pass.  First do you still ride a horse, 
second how is your twig & straw wickiup holding up.  third, do you
do wear leaves and  grass coverings.  However if you don't, you had
better thank one hell of a lot of people that copied and improved
EVERYTHING in this world.  You ask me to check around to see if anyone
in the world, ( I use a computer that is improved and copied every day)
to see if anyone out there might have made a "similar or close" part
and then buy it from them?  Your TR6, is it COMPLETELY original? did
you change ANYTHING and IMPROVE IT.  And by the way,  the "6" was
copied and improved  from other cars. 

You do not have a basis to stand on concerning the improvement of
parts. Both TRF & Moss sell almost the exact same parts. They come
from different suppliers, are you saying there should be one supplier
of parts for your TR6. If so you could not afford them.  Poor logic. 
Bob spoke about "Cottage industries" These people took parts,copied
& improved them and sell them.  They are also not Chinese like a
lot of parts in our ENGLISH cars.  Now who is copying? Who are you
protecting?  certainly not the Chinese!  Or did you just want to jump
on a "bandwagon" 

You also missed the point.  I am NOT offering this IMPROVEMENT for
sale.  I will publish this on the web, then some one possibly Art will
copy it and sell it.  Then who do you complain about?

John Horton       

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 09:08:54 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:08:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  Problem.
Message-ID: <430809.71432.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I thought all might see this "thread". John H.




From: David Friedlander <forzion at maine.rr.com>
To: johnehorton at yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 8:21:57 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Problem.

 "Improve it?" You don't seem to be offering improvements, just copies,
like Stan Foster has said. I guess competition among major shops is one
thing but we're talking cottage industries. What you haven't seemed to
answer is the question of why you don't come up with your own ideas,
but instead simply copy those of others who have already put in much
time, effort and expense. What's YOUR value add? Doesn't take much
ingenuity to copy. Like Stan said, it makes the other guy feel like
"why bother? I'll make design it, but John Horton will probably just
copy it and try to undersell me." I'm all for innovation. Create
something original. If it's good, maybe I'll buy it! Not sure if
somebody already makes it? We're a small community: Just ask the list.
Make some speedo angle drive and OD solenoid covers for the tranny
tunnel; lots of folks have already said they'd buy 'em.

Dave


johnehorton at yahoo.com wrote:

Dave, I can't let this pass.  First do you still ride a horse, 
second how is your twig & straw wickiup holding up.  third, do you
do wear leaves and  grass coverings.  However if you don't, you had
better thank one hell of a lot of people that copied and improved
EVERYTHING in this world.  You ask me to check around to see if anyone
in the world, ( I use a computer that is improved and copied every day)
to see if anyone out there might have made a "similar or close" part
and then buy it from them?  Your TR6, is it COMPLETELY original? did
you change ANYTHING and IMPROVE IT.  And by the way,  the "6" was
copied and improved  from other cars. 

You do not have a basis to stand on concerning the improvement of
parts. Both TRF & Moss sell almost the exact same parts. They come
from different suppliers, are you saying there should be one supplier
of parts for your TR6. If so you could not afford them.  Poor logic. 
Bob spoke about "Cottage industries" These people took parts,copied
& improved them and sell them.  They are also not Chinese like a
lot of parts in our ENGLISH cars.  Now who is copying? Who are you
protecting?  certainly not the Chinese!  Or did you just want to jump
on a "bandwagon" 

You also missed the point.  I am NOT offering this IMPROVEMENT for
sale.  I will publish this on the web, then some one possibly Art will
copy it and sell it.  Then who do you complain about?

John Horton       

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 09:08:54 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:08:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  Problem.
Message-ID: <430809.71432.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I thought all might see this "thread". John H.




From: David Friedlander <forzion at maine.rr.com>
To: johnehorton at yahoo.com
Sent: Friday, January 16, 2009 8:21:57 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Problem.

 "Improve it?" You don't seem to be offering improvements, just copies,
like Stan Foster has said. I guess competition among major shops is one
thing but we're talking cottage industries. What you haven't seemed to
answer is the question of why you don't come up with your own ideas,
but instead simply copy those of others who have already put in much
time, effort and expense. What's YOUR value add? Doesn't take much
ingenuity to copy. Like Stan said, it makes the other guy feel like
"why bother? I'll make design it, but John Horton will probably just
copy it and try to undersell me." I'm all for innovation. Create
something original. If it's good, maybe I'll buy it! Not sure if
somebody already makes it? We're a small community: Just ask the list.
Make some speedo angle drive and OD solenoid covers for the tranny
tunnel; lots of folks have already said they'd buy 'em.

Dave


johnehorton at yahoo.com wrote:

Dave, I can't let this pass.  First do you still ride a horse, 
second how is your twig & straw wickiup holding up.  third, do you
do wear leaves and  grass coverings.  However if you don't, you had
better thank one hell of a lot of people that copied and improved
EVERYTHING in this world.  You ask me to check around to see if anyone
in the world, ( I use a computer that is improved and copied every day)
to see if anyone out there might have made a "similar or close" part
and then buy it from them?  Your TR6, is it COMPLETELY original? did
you change ANYTHING and IMPROVE IT.  And by the way,  the "6" was
copied and improved  from other cars. 

You do not have a basis to stand on concerning the improvement of
parts. Both TRF & Moss sell almost the exact same parts. They come
from different suppliers, are you saying there should be one supplier
of parts for your TR6. If so you could not afford them.  Poor logic. 
Bob spoke about "Cottage industries" These people took parts,copied
& improved them and sell them.  They are also not Chinese like a
lot of parts in our ENGLISH cars.  Now who is copying? Who are you
protecting?  certainly not the Chinese!  Or did you just want to jump
on a "bandwagon" 

You also missed the point.  I am NOT offering this IMPROVEMENT for
sale.  I will publish this on the web, then some one possibly Art will
copy it and sell it.  Then who do you complain about?

John Horton       

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 09:12:51 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:12:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Picture of bushing.
Message-ID: <725776.80430.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here look at this.  

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bush.JPG]

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 09:12:51 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:12:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Picture of bushing.
Message-ID: <725776.80430.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here look at this.  

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bush.JPG]

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 09:12:51 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 08:12:51 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Picture of bushing.
Message-ID: <725776.80430.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Here look at this.  

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bush.JPG]

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jan 17 09:49:57 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 16:49:57 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Picture of bushing.
In-Reply-To: <725776.80430.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <725776.80430.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7280E58805F9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

John, the 6pack mailer strips out attachments. Best to post images on one of
the free image publishing sites like photobucket and then include a link to
the image in your email.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of johnehorton at yahoo.com
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 11:13 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Picture of bushing.

Here look at this.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of
bush.JPG]
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Jan 17 10:29:57 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 12:29:57 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Dampening Product
Message-ID: <A64FE75C967A446AAD55A1FAB9F3F2FC@Robert>

Question to the list. What is the best product to use as a heat shield,
noise dampening insulation? I have removed the entire interior of my 1949
Mayflower and while I wait for the weather to get better, I am doing my
research and purchases of parts I need. Is there a great product I can buy
at the big Hardware stores in bulk instead of paying mega bucks from any of
the usual British parts suppliers?

 

Robert L. Gannon

http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Jan 17 11:34:44 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 13:34:44 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Dampening Product
In-Reply-To: <A64FE75C967A446AAD55A1FAB9F3F2FC@Robert>
References: <A64FE75C967A446AAD55A1FAB9F3F2FC@Robert>
Message-ID: <022C94004A9C4FADB249E7616104E527@BOBSNEWPC>

Robert,
I guess it depends on what you want to accomplish. There's lots of us who
have used products like Dyanmat or FatMat
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/FatMat.htm)  These are sound deadening and
heat insulation products that were originally designed for the car audio
industry. It's quite different from what the Big 3 sell. One thing I did do
last year was to buy carpet underlayment from Lowes that I laid over the
FatMat and under my carpet. It made for a very nice installation
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5SpeedInterior.htm)

I'm sure others will jump in with suggestions.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 12:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Dampening Product

Question to the list. What is the best product to use as a heat shield,
noise dampening insulation? I have removed the entire interior of my 1949
Mayflower and while I wait for the weather to get better, I am doing my
research and purchases of parts I need. Is there a great product I can buy
at the big Hardware stores in bulk instead of paying mega bucks from any of
the usual British parts suppliers?

 

Robert L. Gannon

http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sat Jan 17 12:03:35 2009
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark Bullard)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 09:03:35 -1000
Subject: [6pack] your post
In-Reply-To: <649FEDDABA45489DBA257AB0763D20DF@randyPC>
References: <649FEDDABA45489DBA257AB0763D20DF@randyPC>
Message-ID: <949B0162-2BD9-43AA-89F0-61A7A131283B@hawaii.rr.com>

I agree with Randy. For a couple of bucks, I am always going to  
support guys like Rick who put so much thought and time into making  
our cars better then someone who is in of to make a buck.

Thanks,

Mark

On Jan 17, 2009, at 3:34 AM, "j randolph sandner" <drsandner at embarqmail.com 
 > wrote:

> morning rick,
> HURRAH for you post.
> once i get my tr to ny from nc i'll be purchasing a fan elim kit  
> from you, not a cheaper/bootlegged copy
> randy

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 14:52:12 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 13:52:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Picture
Message-ID: <876274.58461.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello.  If the moderator will allow, I have a pict6ure of the new design bushing set I can put on the web.  John H.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bushings small.JPG]

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 14:52:12 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 13:52:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Picture
Message-ID: <876274.58461.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello.  If the moderator will allow, I have a pict6ure of the new design bushing set I can put on the web.  John H.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bushings small.JPG]

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Sat Jan 17 14:52:12 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 13:52:12 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Picture
Message-ID: <876274.58461.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hello.  If the moderator will allow, I have a pict6ure of the new design bushing set I can put on the web.  John H.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bushings small.JPG]

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jan 17 15:12:49 2009
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 14:12:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Picture
Message-ID: <349548.30127.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>>If the moderator will allow, I have a pict6ure of the new design bushing set I can put on the web
(for the Futurama fans out there... Morbo says: "the 6pack list does not work that way!")
http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/tr6login/morbo1.jpg

Hi John, to post a picture you must use a link. To get a link for a picture, you need to sign up at www.photobucket.com (or similar image hosting site) and then paste the link into the email as I've done above. Super easy once you're signed up, it's free.


Kendall


----- Original Message ----
From: "johnehorton at yahoo.com" <johnehorton at yahoo.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 1:52:12 PM
Subject: [6pack] Picture

Hello.  If the moderator will allow, I have a pict6ure of the new design bushing set I can put on the web.  John H.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of bushings small.JPG]

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Jan 17 15:23:34 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 17:23:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Dampening Product
In-Reply-To: <A64FE75C967A446AAD55A1FAB9F3F2FC@Robert>
References: <A64FE75C967A446AAD55A1FAB9F3F2FC@Robert>
Message-ID: <49725A66.4@maine.rr.com>

Robert;

Check out a this website where a guy did a "showdown" of sound deadeners...

http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

I used  Second Skin Damplifier and Overkill last spring and very much 
enjoyed the results.

See http://www.secondskinaudio.com/

They have quite a selection of materials from which to choose...

Good luck,

Dave



Robert Liam Gannon wrote:

>Question to the list. What is the best product to use as a heat shield,
>noise dampening insulation? I have removed the entire interior of my 1949
>Mayflower and while I wait for the weather to get better, I am doing my
>research and purchases of parts I need. Is there a great product I can buy
>at the big Hardware stores in bulk instead of paying mega bucks from any of
>the usual British parts suppliers?
>
> 
>
>Robert L. Gannon
>
>http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/site/?/home/
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Sat Jan 17 22:11:22 2009
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Sat, 17 Jan 2009 21:11:22 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Heater switch source
Message-ID: <279324.93314.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey List,

My heater switch fell apart, and I've put it back together before. But this time the springs that make things work are missing. (Long gone since i had the switch plinth off for almost 6 months when i was replacing the engine.) The switch does not seem to be available from the big 3. Any ideas where I can find one for sale used or new? 

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/tr6login/IMG_3750.jpg
(arrows to the missing springs)

Kendall
1974 TR6

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jan 18 07:09:13 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 09:09:13 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Heater switch source
In-Reply-To: <279324.93314.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <279324.93314.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4A18E849CE824AF1A61A7C6118C21C88@BOBSNEWPC>

Kendall,
Which of the 3 heater switches is that? eBay is always a choice This is the
heater fan switch (http://tinyurl.com/7rkffk ).

Also, have you checked your local hardware stores for springs? My True
Temper, Sears Hardware and Lowes all have a real good selection of springs,
big and small.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kendall Larsen
Sent: Sunday, January 18, 2009 12:11 AM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] Heater switch source

Hey List,

My heater switch fell apart, and I've put it back together before. But this
time the springs that make things work are missing. (Long gone since i had
the switch plinth off for almost 6 months when i was replacing the engine.)
The switch does not seem to be available from the big 3. Any ideas where I
can find one for sale used or new? 

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/tr6login/IMG_3750.jpg
(arrows to the missing springs)

Kendall
1974 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sun Jan 18 16:17:52 2009
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sun, 18 Jan 2009 18:17:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] John Horton Accel. Bushing Improvement --- photo
References: <876274.58461.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<470B1601D9D34E31B2453A12514804EC@D1TG6Y71>
	<87291.45482.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <11DD761C79ED4830961E138C0637C9A7@D1TG6Y71>

You can view John's accelerator bushing photo by clicking on the following
link.  The dimensions he used are as follows:  ID .0380   Bushing OD is 0.670
, Bushing length 0.500  shoulder OD 0.900  shoulder length 0.250. Slit
lengthwise.

http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Bush_HORTON.jpg


**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: johnehorton at yahoo.com
  To: Tony Gordon
  Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 9:16 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] Picture


  Coming your way.  I installed this "kit' today from scratch.  Took about 25
minutes and my ham hands had trouble getting the small Allen screws into the
collar.  Sure tightened up the throttle.  I took out the spring washer on the
passenger side because it is no longer needed.  The setting is done by
positioning the collar to hold the bushing in the drivers side.  Also the
cotter pin is not needed.  John H.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Jan 19 06:35:01 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 08:35:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Garagemahall anyone?
In-Reply-To: <49739FFC.31028.1CDF8A@localhost>
References: <49739FFC.31028.1CDF8A@localhost>
Message-ID: <200901190835.01682.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

I must reply to the comment Ashford left on the Garagemahall web page about my 
less than "organized" garage.

At this time, as you may be able to see, I have the 72 TR6 project with the 
frame on one side and the body on the other with the engine tucked away on a 
stand just in front of the front apron.

But what the photos don't show is a covered TR3, 2 motorcycles, snowblower, 
snow shovels, roof snow rake and 2 boxes containing the rear suspension!

Now this garage is a funny design sort of L shaped but it has produced a 58 
TR3A, a 63 TR4 and a 74 T140V complete restorations!

Also the garage has a 60 gal 5HP upright compressor, a oxy-acelt torch setup 
and a cabinet sand blaster.

When spring arrives, things will get a bit more organized, but in winter I 
tend to cram as much "stuff"  as I can in odd places so I have some room to 
work on the project.

As this project moves along, I will be talking to a home improvements 
contractor to scope out the expansion of the current garage. I will need to 
make it large enough to hold the 3 cars + 2 motorcycles.

I wish I had the property size just to build a new pole barn but I don't!

Now if I really wanted the list to see a real mess, I would have taken a shot 
of the garage attic. When I go searching for a part up there it is always a 
test of my memory and patience!

Bob

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jan 19 08:11:51 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 07:11:51 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Heater switch source
In-Reply-To: <279324.93314.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <279324.93314.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E624@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Kendall:

	A good hardware store will have a selection of springs such as you show in
your photo. Pick through the drawers and you will find some that work.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kendall Larsen
Sent: Saturday, January 17, 2009 9:11 PM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] Heater switch source

Hey List,

My heater switch fell apart, and I've put it back together before. But this
time the springs that make things work are missing. (Long gone since i had the
switch plinth off for almost 6 months when i was replacing the engine.) The
switch does not seem to be available from the big 3. Any ideas where I can
find one for sale used or new?

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/tr6login/IMG_3750.jpg
(arrows to the missing springs)

Kendall
1974 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jan 19 11:51:48 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 10:51:48 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

    Folks:

        Been thinking about a winter project for the TR6.

        The thing that keeps rattling around in my brain is the fact that I
always end up leaving the overdrive engaged when I want it disengaged (like
after coasting down an off ramp). When I pull away from the signal at the end
of the ramp, I invariably mutter a four letter word when I shift into 3rd as
the OD engages unexpectedly. You would think I would remember to flick the
column switch but it seems that I never do, adding to my anxiety about having
Alzheimer's.
        I was thinking about designing a black box that sees the inhibitor
switch open when I down shift, and then locks out the OD until I toggle the
column stalk again. In other words, the OD disengages and stays disengaged
until deliberately re-engaged.
        Before I start sketching out a circuit, does something like this
already exist? I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I am thinking that it must
plug into the existing wiring harness with no cutting or splicing, and be
easily installed in a hidden location. Of course it must work for both A and J
type ODs too.
        So, any pre-existing solutions out there? Please give me a hyperlink
if possible.

        Thanks,

        Vance

      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Jan 19 12:02:45 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:02:45 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281F9CCD6CC@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Revington makes one:

http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/product_display.asp?mscssid=KV7QQ1BS1KBV8MR6R
4MNNQK5CENBEQP8&CarType=TR6&ProductID=RTR1001K

A bit pricy perhaps and I think it changes the nature of the OD switch, ie you
need to change it to a momentary switch or something.

I agree this would be useful. I have an idiot light but being an idiot, it has
little effect.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 1:52 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller

    Folks:

        Been thinking about a winter project for the TR6.

        The thing that keeps rattling around in my brain is the fact that I
always end up leaving the overdrive engaged when I want it disengaged (like
after coasting down an off ramp). When I pull away from the signal at the end
of the ramp, I invariably mutter a four letter word when I shift into 3rd as
the OD engages unexpectedly. You would think I would remember to flick the
column switch but it seems that I never do, adding to my anxiety about having
Alzheimer's.
        I was thinking about designing a black box that sees the inhibitor
switch open when I down shift, and then locks out the OD until I toggle the
column stalk again. In other words, the OD disengages and stays disengaged
until deliberately re-engaged.
        Before I start sketching out a circuit, does something like this
already exist? I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I am thinking that it must
plug into the existing wiring harness with no cutting or splicing, and be
easily installed in a hidden location. Of course it must work for both A and
J
type ODs too.
        So, any pre-existing solutions out there? Please give me a hyperlink
if possible.

        Thanks,

        Vance

      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast
_______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jan 19 12:13:01 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 13:13:01 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <001101c97a6a$4f07e7d0$89090a0a@sunbeam>

i have on my car a light (yeah - another idiot light for another idiot) that 
is on when the od is engaged.  it helps, but its not nearly bright enough. 
its great at night, but with the top down on a sunny day, well . . .  i 
think a bright led might be a better idea.  its just wired in the circuit 
with the od.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 12:51 PM
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller


>    Folks:
>
>        Been thinking about a winter project for the TR6.
>
>        The thing that keeps rattling around in my brain is the fact that I
> always end up leaving the overdrive engaged when I want it disengaged 
> (like
> after coasting down an off ramp). When I pull away from the signal at the 
> end
> of the ramp, I invariably mutter a four letter word when I shift into 3rd 
> as
> the OD engages unexpectedly. You would think I would remember to flick the
> column switch but it seems that I never do, adding to my anxiety about 
> having
> Alzheimer's.
>        I was thinking about designing a black box that sees the inhibitor
> switch open when I down shift, and then locks out the OD until I toggle 
> the
> column stalk again. In other words, the OD disengages and stays disengaged
> until deliberately re-engaged.
>        Before I start sketching out a circuit, does something like this
> already exist? I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I am thinking that it 
> must
> plug into the existing wiring harness with no cutting or splicing, and be
> easily installed in a hidden location. Of course it must work for both A 
> and J
> type ODs too.
>        So, any pre-existing solutions out there? Please give me a 
> hyperlink
> if possible.
>
>        Thanks,
>
>        Vance
>
>      Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast 

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Jan 19 12:20:31 2009
From: lfm614 at aol.com ( )
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:20:31 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller
In-Reply-To: <001101c97a6a$4f07e7d0$89090a0a@sunbeam>
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><001101c97a6a$4f07e7d0$89090a0a@sunbeam>
Message-ID: <153230497-1232392822-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1391611190-@bxe179.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Ditto, put a red LED on top of the escutcheon that is on when the OD is engaged.  Works great at night not as good during the day. Vance let me know what you come up with on an interlock circuit. Shouldn't be too hard with a relay that can be unlatched by the switches you mention and a spring loaded stalk.  

Lou
 

-----Original Message-----
From: "oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>

Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 13:13:01 
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Overdrive controller


i have on my car a light (yeah - another idiot light for another idiot) that 
is on when the od is engaged.  it helps, but its not nearly bright enough. 
its great at night, but with the top down on a sunny day, well . . .  i 
think a bright led might be a better idea.  its just wired in the circuit 
with the od.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 12:51 PM
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller


>    Folks:
>
>        Been thinking about a winter project for the TR6.
>
>        The thing that keeps rattling around in my brain is the fact that I
> always end up leaving the overdrive engaged when I want it disengaged 
> (like
> after coasting down an off ramp). When I pull away from the signal at the 
> end
> of the ramp, I invariably mutter a four letter word when I shift into 3rd 
> as
> the OD engages unexpectedly. You would think I would remember to flick the
> column switch but it seems that I never do, adding to my anxiety about 
> having
> Alzheimer's.
>        I was thinking about designing a black box that sees the inhibitor
> switch open when I down shift, and then locks out the OD until I toggle 
> the
> column stalk again. In other words, the OD disengages and stays disengaged
> until deliberately re-engaged.
>        Before I start sketching out a circuit, does something like this
> already exist? I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I am thinking that it 
> must
> plug into the existing wiring harness with no cutting or splicing, and be
> easily installed in a hidden location. Of course it must work for both A 
> and J
> type ODs too.
>        So, any pre-existing solutions out there? Please give me a 
> hyperlink
> if possible.
>
>        Thanks,
>
>        Vance
>
>      Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast 
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Jan 19 12:35:36 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 14:35:36 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Dampening Product
In-Reply-To: <49725A66.4@maine.rr.com>
References: <A64FE75C967A446AAD55A1FAB9F3F2FC@Robert> <49725A66.4@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <176B125F8A7E4FF2AFD6CD4FE00ACCBC@Robert>

Thanks everyone for your responses. I think the Fat Mat with the Lowes
insulation will be the way to go for my project. I will tell you all in 5
years time when the project is completed and I drive it for the first time
how it works!

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Jan 19 12:42:37 2009
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 14:42:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Dampening Product
In-Reply-To: <176B125F8A7E4FF2AFD6CD4FE00ACCBC@Robert>
Message-ID: <20090119194237.QVFKA.145325.root@hrndva-web13-z02>

Robert;

"Lowe's insulation?" You gonna use R-15 or R-30?  :- )

Dave


---- Robert Liam Gannon <trsix74 at comcast.net> wrote: 
> 
> Thanks everyone for your responses. I think the Fat Mat with the Lowes
> insulation will be the way to go for my project. I will tell you all in 5
> years time when the project is completed and I drive it for the first time
> how it works!

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Mon Jan 19 13:23:44 2009
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 14:23:44 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <9B02E8A21FB54FCE811F407E8F72C6D5@aitinc.local>

Vance,

Volvo 240's used the J type overdrive.  The electrics consisted of a 
momentary contact switch, a lockout switch, and a relay.  It worked as you 
desribed. When you got the car in 4th gear, you would push the momentary 
contact switch in the center of the gearshift and ovedrive would engage. 
The lockout switch prevented the ovedrive from engaging in any gear but 4th. 
The relay was a "holding" relay that would hold the circuit as long as it 
was enegergized.  It worked great, anytime you shifted out of 4th the 
overdrive was disengaged and would stay that way until the car was in 4th 
gear and the momentary contact switch was pushed again. If you could pull 
the circuit diagrams for one of those cars it would probably give you some 
insight into circuit design save you some time.  Also, I see no reason the 
Volvo relay could not be used.  Coming up with a momentary action stalk 
switch would be the tricky part.

I'm going to look into as my wife's Herald progresses.  I have Spitfire 
engine and overdrive gearbox that is going into the Herald and I would like 
to wire it so that is not confusing for her to drive.

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 12:51 PM
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller


>    Folks:
>
>        Been thinking about a winter project for the TR6.
>
>        The thing that keeps rattling around in my brain is the fact that I
> always end up leaving the overdrive engaged when I want it disengaged 
> (like
> after coasting down an off ramp). When I pull away from the signal at the 
> end
> of the ramp, I invariably mutter a four letter word when I shift into 3rd 
> as
> the OD engages unexpectedly. You would think I would remember to flick the
> column switch but it seems that I never do, adding to my anxiety about 
> having
> Alzheimer's.
>        I was thinking about designing a black box that sees the inhibitor
> switch open when I down shift, and then locks out the OD until I toggle 
> the
> column stalk again. In other words, the OD disengages and stays disengaged
> until deliberately re-engaged.
>        Before I start sketching out a circuit, does something like this
> already exist? I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I am thinking that it 
> must
> plug into the existing wiring harness with no cutting or splicing, and be
> easily installed in a hidden location. Of course it must work for both A 
> and J
> type ODs too.
>        So, any pre-existing solutions out there? Please give me a 
> hyperlink
> if possible.
>
>        Thanks,

From janah at att.net  Mon Jan 19 15:51:10 2009
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 17:51:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
Message-ID: <0DA4A4A528FD4CF5B079D38792305DF8@p4home>

Hi Vance,

Yes, I think there is a circuit dawing in the Williams book "How To Improve 
Your TR6".

John Cyg. 

From Lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Jan 19 17:51:13 2009
From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:51:13 EST
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
Message-ID: <c7d.400032fa.36a67a01@aol.com>

You are right Cyg,
 
It's in there page 128 and an indicator light that fits on the  windscreen 
frame too.  But his circuit is just a control circuit that does  not cut out 
with the inhibitor switch, just to take the load off the  switch.  Like a 
headlight relay kit.
 
Lou
 
 
In a message dated 1/19/2009 4:51:40 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
janah at att.net writes:

Hi  Vance,

Yes, I think there is a circuit dawing in the Williams book "How  To Improve 
Your TR6".

John Cyg.  
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  lfm614 at aol.com


**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)

From janah at att.net  Mon Jan 19 19:40:53 2009
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 21:40:53 -0500
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
References: <c7d.400032fa.36a67a01@aol.com>
Message-ID: <62B9E6A012EE446E943730ED838EE0A3@p4home>

I think there is a circuit to make the OD drop out if you downshift. My book
is in the attic. I will get it tomorrow.

John Cyg
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Lfm614 at aol.com
  To: janah at att.net ; vance.navarrette at intel.com
  Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 7:51 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch


  You are right Cyg,

  It's in there page 128 and an indicator light that fits on the windscreen
frame too.  But his circuit is just a control circuit that does not cut out
with the inhibitor switch, just to take the load off the switch.  Like a
headlight relay kit.

  Lou

  In a message dated 1/19/2009 4:51:40 P.M. Central Standard Time,
janah at att.net writes:
    Hi Vance,

    Yes, I think there is a circuit dawing in the Williams book "How To
Improve
    Your TR6".

    John Cyg.
    _______________________________________________

    Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

    6pack at autox.team.net
    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

    http://www.team.net/archive

    You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com






-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy steps!

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Jan 19 19:56:41 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 02:56:41 +0000
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
In-Reply-To: <62B9E6A012EE446E943730ED838EE0A3@p4home>
References: <c7d.400032fa.36a67a01@aol.com>
	<62B9E6A012EE446E943730ED838EE0A3@p4home>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281F9CCD6FB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Page 57 has a description of the Revington and Racetorations OD logic devices
plus a circuit that may be one or the other. Its not clear to me that this is
a how-to section as opposed to a description of the commercial products. For
example the circuit includes an item labeled "switch box" and it was not clear
to me what that was or where it came from. The rest of the circuit is standard
stuff (relay, wire, lamp etc).

Perhaps Vance could have this put on an ASIC for us :-)

Stan



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Cyganowski
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 9:41 PM
To: Lfm614 at aol.com; vance.navarrette at intel.com
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch

I think there is a circuit to make the OD drop out if you downshift. My book
is in the attic. I will get it tomorrow.

John Cyg

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Mon Jan 19 20:02:25 2009
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 22:02:25 -0500
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
In-Reply-To: <0DA4A4A528FD4CF5B079D38792305DF8@p4home>
References: <0DA4A4A528FD4CF5B079D38792305DF8@p4home>
Message-ID: <49753EC1.6010802@suscom-maine.net>

Hi Vance,

As Aaron mentioned earlier I have exactly what you've been looking for. 
It's a little solid state black plastic box with a series of colored 
LED's. Mounted out of sight under the dash the led's are for trouble 
shooting and status. And as long as things work properly you don't need 
to see the lights. I purchased it from a fellow in Britain a number of 
years ago after seeing it mentioned in these Forums. At the moment I 
can't recall his name and he may not even offer them anymore. It does 
make the overdrive behave like the Volvo.

You do need to replace the original OD switch with the supplied 
momentary switch.

Here's what it does:

In an overdrive gear a tap on the switch engages OD and another tap 
disengages it.

It automatically drops out of overdrive whenever you shift out of an 
overdrive gear. So as you shift from third OD to fourth it automatically 
drops OD until you engage it. Same when downshifting.

Just the opposite of the above is that you can hold the switch and it 
will not drop out between overdrive enabled gears.

The wiring is color coded to match the TR6 so it's mostly a matter of 
plugging in bullet connectors.

Although my TR6 is a 75, it is set up with an overdrive enable switch on 
second gear like the earlier TR's. I like to run the car hard through 
the gears and before installing this control would find myself power 
shifting from redline into second gear OD because I'd forgotten to shut 
of the column switch. Hitting a gear hard and having it slam into 
overdrive gives you that sinking feeling wondering if you've just smoked 
the OD, not to mention the looks you get. It's now fool proof or at 
least this old fool can't make that mistake any more. By the way that OD 
is pretty darn tough!

In addition to the column mounted switch, the walnut gear shift knob has 
been replaced by a Hurst knob with a momentary push button that also 
works the OD. Driving in traffic you can happily use that second gear 
OD! Tap the button it's in and tap it again and it's out. I absolutely 
love it. Although not required, a gear shift button makes it that much 
better.  I use the OD more than ever now. Here are a couple pictures of 
the shifter with the button:

http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/gearshiftknob.jpg

http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/gearshiftknob1.jpg

If you add a selector switch the same shifter button can be 
multipurpose, use it for other neat things like a hill holder / line 
lock or, for the really go fast guys like Al, Nitro!  If anyone is 
interested I will see if I can find the supplier's name. The controller 
was a bargain around $100 compared to the knob about $60!

Just came in from shoveling snow off the roof of the Garagemahall.

Rick Patton
Brunswick, Maine
75 TR6sci
74 TVR 2500M
http://pattonmachine.com/

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 19 20:42:45 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:42:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Here we GO!
Message-ID: <822812.21223.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all.
I have had a number of 6 packers ask for my bushings.  I guess this is the way a new or modified or improved product gets into the "cottage industry". I really did not intend to make these except for a couple of friends.  

SOOOO I will send these modified bushings to you in the lower 48 for $20.00.  So send me a check for $20.00 to  John Horton  15205 N. 40th Lane Phoenix AZ 85053   602-705-8678 is my mobile phone.  

I have a set up for using EDIS ignition on  the 6 or 260.  I make the brackets, mounts, and wiring setup.  You can either build up or buy a complete Megajolt computer and install your own advance map.  I will include the map that I cam up with.  This takes some time to assemble.  I also make the 36 tooth wheel for the front damper.  

The kit is pricy. $450.00.  I will guarantee vastly improved performance over your original distributor.  First drive amazed me.

I am begining to assemble the parts & pieces for sequencial port injection.  I have a set of the TR5 throttle bodies and will adapt injectors to them and add a sequencer board to the Megajolt.  I will report on this later as it developes.
John Horton   

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 19 20:42:45 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:42:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Here we GO!
Message-ID: <822812.21223.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all.
I have had a number of 6 packers ask for my bushings.  I guess this is the way a new or modified or improved product gets into the "cottage industry". I really did not intend to make these except for a couple of friends.  

SOOOO I will send these modified bushings to you in the lower 48 for $20.00.  So send me a check for $20.00 to  John Horton  15205 N. 40th Lane Phoenix AZ 85053   602-705-8678 is my mobile phone.  

I have a set up for using EDIS ignition on  the 6 or 260.  I make the brackets, mounts, and wiring setup.  You can either build up or buy a complete Megajolt computer and install your own advance map.  I will include the map that I cam up with.  This takes some time to assemble.  I also make the 36 tooth wheel for the front damper.  

The kit is pricy. $450.00.  I will guarantee vastly improved performance over your original distributor.  First drive amazed me.

I am begining to assemble the parts & pieces for sequencial port injection.  I have a set of the TR5 throttle bodies and will adapt injectors to them and add a sequencer board to the Megajolt.  I will report on this later as it developes.
John Horton   

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Mon Jan 19 20:42:45 2009
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 19:42:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Here we GO!
Message-ID: <822812.21223.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all.
I have had a number of 6 packers ask for my bushings.  I guess this is the way a new or modified or improved product gets into the "cottage industry". I really did not intend to make these except for a couple of friends.  

SOOOO I will send these modified bushings to you in the lower 48 for $20.00.  So send me a check for $20.00 to  John Horton  15205 N. 40th Lane Phoenix AZ 85053   602-705-8678 is my mobile phone.  

I have a set up for using EDIS ignition on  the 6 or 260.  I make the brackets, mounts, and wiring setup.  You can either build up or buy a complete Megajolt computer and install your own advance map.  I will include the map that I cam up with.  This takes some time to assemble.  I also make the 36 tooth wheel for the front damper.  

The kit is pricy. $450.00.  I will guarantee vastly improved performance over your original distributor.  First drive amazed me.

I am begining to assemble the parts & pieces for sequencial port injection.  I have a set of the TR5 throttle bodies and will adapt injectors to them and add a sequencer board to the Megajolt.  I will report on this later as it developes.
John Horton   

From tomkate at shaw.ca  Mon Jan 19 23:00:23 2009
From: tomkate at shaw.ca (Tom Martin)
Date: Mon, 19 Jan 2009 22:00:23 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3E7EC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <646DC828CFF44DFDB1303723574C1ED2@laptop>

Hi guys
  I've  been driving Vovo's for 30 years and TR's for longer, all with 
overdrives, I've always thought a Volvo style relay and switch, which works 
the way  Rick describes, would be excellent. One place we allready have an 
intermittent style switch is on the "flash to pass' on the headlight dipper 
stalk, many of us don't have this connected. I have often wondered if it 
could be used for the pulse to the od intermittant relay, and then just 
follow the volvo wiring scheme. I really like being able to keep my hands on 
the wheel and flicking in and out (when I remember!). I use my 2nd gear od 
alot in traffic, but I have power shifted into it a number of times, it 
would be nice not to do such a silly thing!!!  BTW it is a "j-type" wired up 
like an "a-type" so I can use it in 2nd,  probably 50 to 60k miles on it 
this way.

                                               cheers Tom Martin   75 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 10:51 AM
Subject: [6pack] Overdrive controller


>    Folks:
>
>        Been thinking about a winter project for the TR6.
>
>        The thing that keeps rattling around in my brain is the fact that I
> always end up leaving the overdrive engaged when I want it disengaged 
> (like
> after coasting down an off ramp). When I pull away from the signal at the 
> end
> of the ramp, I invariably mutter a four letter word when I shift into 3rd 
> as
> the OD engages unexpectedly. You would think I would remember to flick the
> column switch but it seems that I never do, adding to my anxiety about 
> having
> Alzheimer's.
>        I was thinking about designing a black box that sees the inhibitor
> switch open when I down shift, and then locks out the OD until I toggle 
> the
> column stalk again. In other words, the OD disengages and stays disengaged
> until deliberately re-engaged.
>        Before I start sketching out a circuit, does something like this
> already exist? I don't want to reinvent the wheel. I am thinking that it 
> must
> plug into the existing wiring harness with no cutting or splicing, and be
> easily installed in a hidden location. Of course it must work for both A 
> and J
> type ODs too.
>        So, any pre-existing solutions out there? Please give me a 
> hyperlink
> if possible.
>
>        Thanks,
>
>        Vance
>
>      Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tomkate at shaw.ca 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jan 20 10:19:59 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 09:19:59 -0800
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
In-Reply-To: <49753EC1.6010802@suscom-maine.net>
References: <0DA4A4A528FD4CF5B079D38792305DF8@p4home>
	<49753EC1.6010802@suscom-maine.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3ECFA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Folks:

        Thanks for the tips. Here is what I have learned:

        Revington TR offers a kit which requires a momentary contact switch.
It looks like it consists of two relays, a socket, and instructions for
approximately 65 pounds UK. If you get the recommended switch, add 62 pounds,
for a total of 127 pounds or about $180 US.
        Racetorations UK offers a solid state kit, but they do not have the
details on their web site so I cannot determine the cost. I wonder if it might
be the same or nearly the same as the module that Rick Patton mentions below.
        John Williams has a wiring diagram in his book "How to improve the
TR6". It appears to be the wiring diagram for the Revington kit on a car with
the A type OD (since it shows a relay being used to engage the OD in addition
to the add on OD module).
        If anyone can help with details of the racetorations module, I would
appreciate it. In the meantime I have started sketching out a circuit. The
goal is to have it plug in with no cutting or splicing required, and to work
with the existing switch. It is a challenge due to the "no cutting or
splicing" requirement. I want to simply plug it in to the existing harness. A
guess would be that I can get the parts together and build it for 1/3 the
revington cost. We shall see.

        Cheers,

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Patton [mailto:patton at suscom-maine.net]
Sent: Monday, January 19, 2009 7:02 PM
To: John Cyganowski
Cc: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch

Hi Vance,

As Aaron mentioned earlier I have exactly what you've been looking for.
It's a little solid state black plastic box with a series of colored
LED's. Mounted out of sight under the dash the led's are for trouble
shooting and status. And as long as things work properly you don't need
to see the lights. I purchased it from a fellow in Britain a number of
years ago after seeing it mentioned in these Forums. At the moment I
can't recall his name and he may not even offer them anymore. It does
make the overdrive behave like the Volvo.

<snip>

Rick Patton
Brunswick, Maine
75 TR6sci
74 TVR 2500M
http://pattonmachine.com/

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Jan 20 10:32:01 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 17:32:01 +0000
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3ECFA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <0DA4A4A528FD4CF5B079D38792305DF8@p4home>
	<49753EC1.6010802@suscom-maine.net>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3ECFA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA527295@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Vance, please keep us informed of your progress as I think there is a lot of
interest. I share your goals especially keeping the current switch although I
probably have a higher tolerance for cutting and splicing than many.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Tuesday, January 20, 2009 12:20 PM
To: Rick Patton; John Cyganowski
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch

        Folks:

        Thanks for the tips. Here is what I have learned:

        Revington TR offers a kit which requires a momentary contact switch.
It looks like it consists of two relays, a socket, and instructions for
approximately 65 pounds UK. If you get the recommended switch, add 62 pounds,
for a total of 127 pounds or about $180 US.
        Racetorations UK offers a solid state kit, but they do not have the
details on their web site so I cannot determine the cost. I wonder if it
might
be the same or nearly the same as the module that Rick Patton mentions below.
        John Williams has a wiring diagram in his book "How to improve the
TR6". It appears to be the wiring diagram for the Revington kit on a car with
the A type OD (since it shows a relay being used to engage the OD in addition
to the add on OD module).
        If anyone can help with details of the racetorations module, I would
appreciate it. In the meantime I have started sketching out a circuit. The
goal is to have it plug in with no cutting or splicing required, and to work
with the existing switch. It is a challenge due to the "no cutting or
splicing" requirement. I want to simply plug it in to the existing harness. A
guess would be that I can get the parts together and build it for 1/3 the
revington cost. We shall see.

        Cheers,

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Tue Jan 20 10:43:43 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 12:43:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
References: <0DA4A4A528FD4CF5B079D38792305DF8@p4home><49753EC1.6010802@suscom-maine.net><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3ECFA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA527295@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <2A31A3B70C2C4B85B1C2543F1310A627@hp>

Vance      I'm all for plug and play,,,,,, good luck,,,,,,I'll take one!!!! 
Bob M



" In the meantime I have started sketching out a circuit. The
goal is to have it plug in with no cutting or splicing required, and to work
with the existing switch. It is a challenge due to the "no cutting or
splicing" requirement. I want to simply plug it in to the existing harness. 
A
guess would be that I can get the parts together and build it for 1/3 the
revington cost. We shall see.

        Cheers,

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast"

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jan 20 11:01:38 2009
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 20 Jan 2009 12:01:38 -0600
Subject: [6pack] OD Inhibitor Switch
References: <0DA4A4A528FD4CF5B079D38792305DF8@p4home><49753EC1.6010802@suscom-maine.net><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BD3ECFA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA527295@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<2A31A3B70C2C4B85B1C2543F1310A627@hp>
Message-ID: <001a01c97b29$28bc1460$89090a0a@ranteer.local>

i'm in for two.

>
> " In the meantime I have started sketching out a circuit. The
> goal is to have it plug in with no cutting or splicing required, and to 
> work
> with the existing switch. It is a challenge due to the "no cutting or
> splicing" requirement. I want to simply plug it in to the existing 
> harness.
> A
> guess would be that I can get the parts together and build it for 1/3 the
> revington cost. We shall see.
>
>        Cheers,
>
>        Vance
>
>
>    Vance Navarrette

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Wed Jan 21 11:39:44 2009
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 10:39:44 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20090121103012.028ea738@mail.esd.sri.com>

Fellow Enthusiasts,

I have easy access to the flywheel right now and would like to have it 
lightened.
I understand 4+ pounds can be removed but it isn't obvious to me or my 
mechanic friend where to remove the
metal.  Can anyone here elaborate?

I tried to locate my copy of Kastner's Comp Prep manual, but I've misplaced 
it (I guess because it is so small).
If there are detailed instructions in there, can someone fax it to me?

Background info: My plans for this engine are 9.5:1 CR and GP2 cam (ie, 
street use on California pump gas).

Thanks in advance,
Cregg

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Jan 21 12:07:11 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 11:07:11 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
In-Reply-To: <6.2.0.14.2.20090121103012.028ea738@mail.esd.sri.com>
References: <6.2.0.14.2.20090121103012.028ea738@mail.esd.sri.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573BDA70BE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Cregg:

	The lightening diagram is here: http://www.141.com/triumphs/vizard.pdf

	It is towards the back of the file, maybe page 95 or so.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Cregg Cowan
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 10:40 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel

Fellow Enthusiasts,

I have easy access to the flywheel right now and would like to have it
lightened.
I understand 4+ pounds can be removed but it isn't obvious to me or my
mechanic friend where to remove the
metal.  Can anyone here elaborate?

I tried to locate my copy of Kastner's Comp Prep manual, but I've misplaced
it (I guess because it is so small).
If there are detailed instructions in there, can someone fax it to me?

Background info: My plans for this engine are 9.5:1 CR and GP2 cam (ie,
street use on California pump gas).

Thanks in advance,
Cregg

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Wed Jan 21 12:25:43 2009
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 14:25:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04F76@uscancisnt05.instron.com>

 Material gets removed from the backside of the flywheel although generally the machinist will lightly face the clutch disc side.  Material removed can be much greater than 4 lbs.  Seem to recall that mine was taken down to 15-16 lbs.
Darcy Hunter
North Easton, MA
'73 TR6

Message: 1
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 10:39:44 -0800
From: Cregg Cowan <cregg.cowan at sri.com>
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20090121103012.028ea738 at mail.esd.sri.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii; format=flowed

Fellow Enthusiasts,

I have easy access to the flywheel right now and would like to have it 
lightened.
I understand 4+ pounds can be removed but it isn't obvious to me or my 
mechanic friend where to remove the
metal.  Can anyone here elaborate?

I tried to locate my copy of Kastner's Comp Prep manual, but I've misplaced 
it (I guess because it is so small).
If there are detailed instructions in there, can someone fax it to me?

Background info: My plans for this engine are 9.5:1 CR and GP2 cam (ie, 
street use on California pump gas).

Thanks in advance,
Cregg

From rsh17 at msn.com  Wed Jan 21 12:47:30 2009
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 13:47:30 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
In-Reply-To: <6.2.0.14.2.20090121103012.028ea738@mail.esd.sri.com>
References: <6.2.0.14.2.20090121103012.028ea738@mail.esd.sri.com>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W3124B625DE0A24AEABD3B2AAD10@phx.gbl>

Look at the link below for info
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92&i=1

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com



> Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 10:39:44 -0800
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> From: cregg.cowan at sri.com
> Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
>
> Fellow Enthusiasts,
>
> I have easy access to the flywheel right now and would like to have it
> lightened.
> I understand 4+ pounds can be removed but it isn't obvious to me or my
> mechanic friend where to remove the
> metal.  Can anyone here elaborate?
>
> I tried to locate my copy of Kastner's Comp Prep manual, but I've misplaced
> it (I guess because it is so small).
> If there are detailed instructions in there, can someone fax it to me?
>
> Background info: My plans for this engine are 9.5:1 CR and GP2 cam (ie,
> street use on California pump gas).
>
> Thanks in advance,
> Cregg
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rsh17 at msn.com

_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail.more than just e-mail.
http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_howit
works_012009

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Jan 21 13:14:23 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 20:14:23 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV7C26C0897A45D79A6ADAEF4D10@phx.gbl>

Cregg---I don't recall the original weight of my '73 flywheel, but after the machinist got thru removing material from the backside, it now weighs 18 lb.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Cregg Cowan
Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 10:39 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel

Fellow Enthusiasts,

I have easy access to the flywheel right now and would like to have it 
lightened.
I understand 4+ pounds can be removed but it isn't obvious to me or my 
mechanic friend where to remove the
metal.  Can anyone here elaborate?

I tried to locate my copy of Kastner's Comp Prep manual, but I've misplaced 
it (I guess because it is so small).
If there are detailed instructions in there, can someone fax it to me?

Background info: My plans for this engine are 9.5:1 CR and GP2 cam (ie, 
street use on California pump gas).

Thanks in advance,
Cregg
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Jan 21 14:08:32 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 16:08:32 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV7C26C0897A45D79A6ADAEF4D10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV7C26C0897A45D79A6ADAEF4D10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901211606410.23064@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I'm pretty sure that the late flywheel is 28 pounds stock and the early 
flywheel is 4 or 5 pounds less in stock form.

Get rid of as much mass on the outer edge as you can. This is where the 
most benefit can be derived.

Think "polar moment".

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Jan 21 14:29:28 2009
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 16:29:28 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
Message-ID: <4FFE4C1A.29652CFC.00159EE9@cs.com>

Like Bob Lang says:   most start out at 28#s with the ring gear.

Finish weight is typically 18#s m/l



>Cregg---I don't recall the original weight of my '73 flywheel, but after the machinist got thru removing material from the backside, it now weighs 18 lb.
>
>Dick
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Cregg Cowan
>Sent: Wednesday, January 21, 2009 10:39 AM
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel
>
>Fellow Enthusiasts,
>
>I have easy access to the flywheel right now and would like to have it 
>lightened.
>I understand 4+ pounds can be removed but it isn't obvious to me or my 
>mechanic friend where to remove the
>metal.  Can anyone here elaborate?
>
>I tried to locate my copy of Kastner's Comp Prep manual, but I've misplaced 
>it (I guess because it is so small).
>If there are detailed instructions in there, can someone fax it to me?
>
>Background info: My plans for this engine are 9.5:1 CR and GP2 cam (ie, 
>street use on California pump gas).
>
>Thanks in advance,
>Cregg
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Wed Jan 21 20:35:57 2009
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Wed, 21 Jan 2009 19:35:57 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Lightening Flywheel
Message-ID: <333542.25994.qm@web65607.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

We took 6 lbs off my ( 28lbs I think) 73 flywheel.   Hopefully someone will
point you to a picture that shows the correct 'dishing' shape when you
lighten.   It must be balanced.  First machine shop said 'we took material off
uniformly so it should be fine'.  My spyder sense tingled, so a different
shop got the flywheel and actually balanced it.  It needed it.  2nd shop was a
driveline specialist, while the 1st shop was an engine rebuilder.

Do it
again?, for $300 I could pick up a brand new bolt on aluminum flywheel.  No
machine shop cost or uncertainties, no new ring gear cost.   No worries about
machining an older hunk of metal.      Are there downsides here?  too light
for everyday driving?

Thanks, Bruce Simms
__________________________________________________________________
Ask a
question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers
and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Thu Jan 22 11:52:19 2009
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 10:52:19 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Info sought for lightening 73 flywheel --- THANKS!
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20090122104733.028dfd88@mail.esd.sri.com>

This list is great --- thanks for all the info and suggestions.

One of the longtime list members offered to lighten the flywheel for me at 
a reasonable cost and
it makes a lot more sense to have a knowledgeable machinist than a 
friendly, ignorant one.

Contact me directly if you want to know who (ensuring I don't violate the 
non-commercial intent of the list).

Also, the list member pointed out that the flywheel fits in a USPS flat 
rate box, so 2-day delivery is only $10.  Wow.

Best Regards,
Cregg

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jan 22 14:20:00 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:20:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
Message-ID: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>

One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the
sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire
so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll
be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of
Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200
range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed
at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they
are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting
various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various
construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe
once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less
expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time,
adjustable shade control & ANSI certified. 

I remember driving down the highway a year or so ago and seeing something
blow out of the back of truck. It was a welding helmet. So I caught the guy,
who was a welding contractor, and motioned that his helmet fell out. He knew
immediately what I was motioning about and was able to turn around to get
it. If I wasn't so honest I bet I could have scored one expensive helmet!

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Thu Jan 22 14:24:23 2009
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:24:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
In-Reply-To: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <9BCE970525E24EBD81A97484CCA07D8C@Desktop>

Who did you buy the welder from?	Go there and see if it fits

Craig


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 4:20 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack List'
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question

One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the
sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire
so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll
be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of
Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200
range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed
at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they
are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting
various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various
construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe
once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less
expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time,
adjustable shade control & ANSI certified.

I remember driving down the highway a year or so ago and seeing something
blow out of the back of truck. It was a welding helmet. So I caught the guy,
who was a welding contractor, and motioned that his helmet fell out. He knew
immediately what I was motioning about and was able to turn around to get
it. If I wasn't so honest I bet I could have scored one expensive helmet!

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From k6na at cts.com  Thu Jan 22 16:22:31 2009
From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 15:22:31 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
In-Reply-To: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <20090122232114.BF29B9788@ocean.concentric.com>

Bob, I'm not a welder, and I don't play one on TV.  But I would think 
about the risk of counterfeit goods from overseas (you know where I mean).

These guys are everywhere in the marketplace.  For them, it's all 
about price.  It's not about safety, or meeting specs.  The US 
government is overwhelmed by imported stuff and really can't enforce 
standards like we might wish.

Part of the counterfeiting process is the false labeling, not just 
the inferior materials or methods.  It's easy to make a label that 
says "meets ANSI standard so-and-so", or "Grade 8 Bolt", or 
whatever.  I know nothing about the auto-darkening process, but maybe 
the switching time you mentioned is subject to some variables which 
have to be controlled tightly during material-sourcing AND 
manufacture.  Who is controlling that, if it comes from Asia?

With the global environment, I have become a more careful consumer in 
critical applications.   With my eyes, I wouldn't take any 
chances.  I would go to a big-name US supplier of welding accessories 
and buy a high quality US-made version of the helmet, even if I used 
it only once a year.  Bonus-- your purchase might help some guy in 
Ohio keep his job in a small factory....

By the way, the counterfeiting of fasteners has been a huge business 
for about 20-25 years now.  I think about that every time I get on an 
airplane and wonder if the AN hardware is really AN.

--Glenn/74.5 TR6s
San Diego

At 01:20 PM 1/22/2009, you wrote:
>I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll
>be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of
>Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200
>range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed
>at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they
>are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting
>various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various
>construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe
>once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less
>expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time,
>adjustable shade control & ANSI certified.

From grego at sandesco.com  Thu Jan 22 16:33:44 2009
From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 15:33:44 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
In-Reply-To: <20090122232114.BF29B9788@ocean.concentric.com>
References: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>
	<20090122232114.BF29B9788@ocean.concentric.com>
Message-ID: <20090122153344.10kbiwjj4sussckk@webmail.dsl-only.net>

Quoting Glenn Rattmann <k6na at cts.com>:

> ...
> With the global environment, I have become a more careful consumer in
> critical applications.   With my eyes, I wouldn't take any
> chances.  I would go to a big-name US supplier of welding accessories
> and buy a high quality US-made version of the helmet, even if I used
> it only once a year.  Bonus-- your purchase might help some guy in
> Ohio keep his job in a small factory....
>

Yes, I second Glenn's opinion!
When I purchase mine (long time ago) I got a respected brand at
the local welding supply store. Sorry I don't recall the brand,
sitting in an office sadly away from my workshop ;)

-grego '74 TR6 Portland Oregon

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Thu Jan 22 16:37:43 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 18:37:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
References: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <D33F26A1B1DA46C89CD64E4E0B6BFE68@hp>

I have a $100+ Auto one from HD that needs to have batteries and you have to 
remember to turn it off or they are dead next time you need it...Harbor 
Freight a few years ago had their cheap auto one on sale for $30.  Picked it 
up when home and tried it out, needs no batteries worked great.. So took it 
off got back in truck and went back and bought another one for use at the 
cottage...  I have been more than happy with them both... I don't use the HD 
one anymore...Bob M


"One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the
sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire
so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll
be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of
Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200
range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed
at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they
are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting
various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various
construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe
once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less
expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time,
adjustable shade control & ANSI certified. "

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Thu Jan 22 16:48:37 2009
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 17:48:37 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
In-Reply-To: <20090122153344.10kbiwjj4sussckk@webmail.dsl-only.net>
Message-ID: <E1LQ9Hu-00052M-Ek@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Bob,

What Glenn and Grego said. How much is your eyesight worth to you!

Mike



Quoting Glenn Rattmann <k6na at cts.com>:

> ...
> With the global environment, I have become a more careful consumer in
> critical applications.   With my eyes, I wouldn't take any
> chances.  I would go to a big-name US supplier of welding accessories
> and buy a high quality US-made version of the helmet, even if I used
> it only once a year.  Bonus-- your purchase might help some guy in
> Ohio keep his job in a small factory....
>

Yes, I second Glenn's opinion!
When I purchase mine (long time ago) I got a respected brand at
the local welding supply store. Sorry I don't recall the brand,
sitting in an office sadly away from my workshop ;)

-grego '74 TR6 Portland Oregon
_______________________________________________

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Jan 22 17:09:02 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 00:09:02 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
In-Reply-To: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <C01B26E4AA8244C88F065A510BDC5072@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA527A13@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bob, when I bought my Mig welder a few years ago I bought a Huntsman brand
auto-darkening helmet at the same time. It cost around $150 but it does not
require batteries and it has held up well other than needing to replace the
outer plastic window that protects the auto darkening unit. It is lightweight
and responds instantly and fits well. It has no flames, skull and crossbones,
stars and stripes etc on the helmet, it does not look like a pig face (ok, I
heard that). It is just plain black.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 4:20 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack List'
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question

One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the
sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire
so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll
be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of
Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200
range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed
at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they
are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting
various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various
construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe
once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less
expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time,
adjustable shade control & ANSI certified.

I remember driving down the highway a year or so ago and seeing something
blow out of the back of truck. It was a welding helmet. So I caught the guy,
who was a welding contractor, and motioned that his helmet fell out. He knew
immediately what I was motioning about and was able to turn around to get
it. If I wasn't so honest I bet I could have scored one expensive helmet!

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr6nut at verizon.net  Thu Jan 22 17:17:37 2009
From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 19:17:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
In-Reply-To: <E1LQ9Hu-00052M-Ek@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <E1LQ9Hu-00052M-Ek@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <49790CA1.3000107@verizon.net>

With regards to "cheaper = overseas junk", it is not necessarily true 
that spending more will equal domestically-made goods or goods of a 
higher quality.  With today's outsourcing fever, you are just as likely 
to get junk from the "name" companies as you are likely to get from 
"no-name" companies.  I think back to the pet food problem of a year or 
so ago.  Those who were spending extra dollars on supposedly better pet 
food from companies like Science Diet found out (too late) that those 
companies were buying the same basic ingredients from the same Chinese 
sources as Wal-Mart was buying for their bottom-dollar pet food.  It 
seems to me that many companies today are willing to risk their good 
reputation in exchange for higher profits.  Don't even get me started on 
screen doors - when I was a kid, our screen door lasted 15 years. Seems 
you can't buy one today that lasts more than 15 months.  Even if you 
want to pay more, they just aren't available. Stepping off soap-box now.....

Hugh Barber
Stafford, Va
'73 TR6

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Thu Jan 22 17:28:30 2009
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 19:28:30 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
References: <E1LQ9Hu-00052M-Ek@elasmtp-dupuy.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<49790CA1.3000107@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <0877801507CE4F3D9779AFD48AF07BF6@hp>

I'll get on mine for just a minute here for some OT talk..  I have been 
following this peanut butter problem. And getting updates of recalled items 
from the FDA.. I find it surprising just how many different name brand 
companies buy their peanut butter from PCA "Peanut Corporation of America" 
and just how easy it would be to spread something around the country to kill 
us all....   Ok sorry for taking up your time...  I'll go back to watching 
the snow not melting......Bob M



"With regards to "cheaper = overseas junk", it is not necessarily true
that spending more will equal domestically-made goods or goods of a
higher quality.  With today's outsourcing fever, you are just as likely
to get junk from the "name" companies as you are likely to get from
"no-name" companies.  I think back to the pet food problem of a year or
so ago.  Those who were spending extra dollars on supposedly better pet
food from companies like Science Diet found out (too late) that those
companies were buying the same basic ingredients from the same Chinese
sources as Wal-Mart was buying for their bottom-dollar pet food.  It
seems to me that many companies today are willing to risk their good
reputation in exchange for higher profits.  Don't even get me started on
screen doors - when I was a kid, our screen door lasted 15 years. Seems
you can't buy one today that lasts more than 15 months.  Even if you
want to pay more, they just aren't available. Stepping off soap-box 
now....."

Hugh Barber
Stafford, Va
'73 TR6

From tr6parts at charter.net  Thu Jan 22 17:34:50 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 16:34:50 -0800
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Welding Helmet Question
In-Reply-To: <6C24B40E3D12425485C35F284FD86567@joepentiumnew>
Message-ID: <20090122193450.0T4YT.3614942.root@mp11>

I am taking a welding course now.
The instructor said he has an expensive one and one from Harbor Freight , and the one from H.F. works just as well.
They have auto adjusting ones from $39-49 on sale.

Al

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Thu Jan 22 18:09:04 2009
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Thu, 22 Jan 2009 19:09:04 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Bulb holders
Message-ID: <06C0E950E7C2418B9FA6C6C692CDAC70@stevekirsisPC>

Just received my complete set of rear bulb holders from Rimmer Bros. (U.K) and
am extremely pleased. not only was the price right (34.00 dollars including
shipping) but all six of them have push on connectors for the ground. I think
my problems have been solved. Great quality, great price, better illumination.
Set does not include side markers. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. If
anyone wants the part # I will look it up again and pass it on.

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jan 22 23:30:42 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 06:30:42 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV1099DB9609A48D64DCC034F4CF0@phx.gbl>

Bob---There may be an auto darkening helmet out there that lets you see the work before striking the arc, but the ones I've seen advertised have only four layers of light change admittance. Usually 9 to 13. It would seem that the first level of #9 would still be too dark, at least for these old eyes. I have found that training a bright light on the work to be done allows me to see where I want to make initial contact on the work oiece. After that, I just puddle on!

Dick
270 Miller


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 1:20 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, '6pack List'
Subject: [6pack] Welding Helmet Question

One of my many problems with welding is I can't see anything until the
sparks start flying at which point I figure I'll set the house on fire
so......I'm considering one of the auto-darkening type helmets figuring I'll
be able to see where everything is before I light things up. A search of
Sears & Home Depot shows the auto-darkening models to be in the $100 - $200
range. Harbor Freight had one at $80 and eBay has a bunch of new ones listed
at $30 - $50. And I've also seen some for $400. From a spec standpoint, they
are all similar with regard to reaction time, darkness scale and meeting
various industry standards. So I'm guessing the difference lies in various
construction aspects of the helmet itself. This is something I'll use maybe
once or twice a year and my primary concern is eye protection. Will the less
expensive ones do the job given that they all say 1/25,000 sec switch time,
adjustable shade control & ANSI certified. 

I remember driving down the highway a year or so ago and seeing something
blow out of the back of truck. It was a welding helmet. So I caught the guy,
who was a welding contractor, and motioned that his helmet fell out. He knew
immediately what I was motioning about and was able to turn around to get
it. If I wasn't so honest I bet I could have scored one expensive helmet!

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Fri Jan 23 09:15:31 2009
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 08:15:31 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] clutch slave cylinder recommendation
Message-ID: <596932.12629.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all. I was just searching the archives for some information on replacement clutch slave cylinders (mine is leaking) and I noticed some people have had some problems with the various replacement brands. What have people had success with? I am guessing I have an original one on the car now.

Ian Breyer
early 72TR6
New Haven, CT 06511
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jan 23 10:26:35 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 09:26:35 -0800
Subject: [6pack] clutch slave cylinder recommendation
In-Reply-To: <596932.12629.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <596932.12629.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573CEC27FF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Ian:

	My experience is now over 3 years old, but here is what I found. I ordered a
replacement from Moss, and while it looked compatible it was not because its
butt was too large to fit through the hole in the mounting plate. For some
reason, the replacement had "bulges" cast into it where the bleed nipple and
the hydraulic line attached, which made it too fat. I could have taken a
grinder to it and made it fit, but I said "No".
	I then ordered another replacement after explaining why the first one did not
fit. The second slave I got did not have the bulges, so it fit into the
mounting hole, but the mounting ears on the slave had been machined on the
transmission side rather than the engine side. The side of the mounting ears
that attached to the mounting plate were therefore not flat, and the slave sat
in a shifted position towards the rear of the car relative to the old one. A
additional minor annoyance was the fact that due to the machined surfaces on
the ears being visible, it looked as though I had incorrectly installed the
slave even though in fact it was correct.
	In the end I didn't use the second slave either. I took it back and ordered a
slave rebuild kit instead. I purchased a brake cylinder hone from the auto
parts store for a couple of bucks, and then honed my original and rebuilt it
instead of replacing it. Rebuilding it is trivial (a seal and a dust boot),
took all of 10 minutes, and fit correctly. If you are anal about it, you can
paint it too.
	I hope by now Moss has rectified all of this and only carries a correct
replacement for the original Lockheed. But I would say that the only way to
know that your slave will fit properly is to rebuild it instead of replacing
it. Given the finicky nature of the TR6 clutch, I would avoid anything that is
not totally correct when conducting repairs on that part of the car.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ian Breyer
Sent: Friday, January 23, 2009 8:16 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] clutch slave cylinder recommendation

Hi all. I was just searching the archives for some information on replacement
clutch slave cylinders (mine is leaking) and I noticed some people have had
some problems with the various replacement brands. What have people had
success with? I am guessing I have an original one on the car now.

Ian Breyer
early 72TR6

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Jan 23 15:49:28 2009
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 23 Jan 2009 17:49:28 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Welding Helmet Question
Message-ID: <c6d.4220e6eb.36aba378@aol.com>

Not using auto darkening is such a pain I cannot imagine not using  one.  My 
only complaint on the HF model is the mechanism that holds it up  above your 
head.  The cheap ones do not work all that well and do  not  allow me to look 
down without it falling in front of my face.  It will not  tighten sufficiently 
to not do so.  As to auto darkening it works  great.  I would step up to an 
expensive one if I welded more but about a  weeks worth of welding a year does 
not warrant it.
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Know Your Numbers: Get tips and tools to help you improve your 
credit score. 
(http://www.walletpop.com/credit/credit-reports?ncid=emlcntuswall00000002)

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Sat Jan 24 18:22:06 2009
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 20:22:06 EST
Subject: [6pack] sealing block instillation difficulties
Message-ID: <c5c.43fea9eb.36ad18be@aol.com>

With my oil pan off, I decided to replace the front sealing block with the  
striped out bolt holes. The PO tried to fix the striped holes with heli-coils  
and larger bolts. They held enough that someone was able to crank down on the  
bolts hard enough to bend the sealing block thereby causing the pan to leak  
more.
 
I ordered a new aluminum sealing block from TRF. It was .060" longed than  
the old one so I had to grind it down to size. I tried a dry fit it to the  
block. I am having difficulties installing the screws holding it on to the  engine 
block. I am pushing it against the engine plate and gasket but can not  get 
it to go over far enough to align the screw holes. Is there a trick to this?  I 
do not want to remove the engine plate. 
 
Also, when I do the final installation, should I use gasket sealer and  
where. Maybe a little Hylomar? When I removed the old block, part of the gasket  on 
the engine plate pealed off, not much. Once again, I don't want to remove the 
 engine plate to replace that gasket. One more thing, I do not see what the 
two  small gaskets between the sealing block and engine block do.
 
Thanks,
 
Peter Schoppelry
'69 TR6
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Jan 24 18:50:02 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 20:50:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] sealing block instillation difficulties
In-Reply-To: <c5c.43fea9eb.36ad18be@aol.com>
References: <c5c.43fea9eb.36ad18be@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8F981CCCA7464C54B8D846CB5C0AC8F8@Robert>

In the two TR6 engines I rebuilt I found it necessary to remove the rear
engine plate as well as the front plate. In my experience, if they are not
removed and the expansion block is not put in the correct manner with the
wooden wedges and some Hylomar, then the plate with its gasket becomes
useless and it will leak oil. It would not sit tight. Unfortunately trying
shortcuts saves you some time now and is a little cheaper, but if you don't
do the job properly from the beginning, the end result is you'll want to do
it again because you'll smell the oil burning on the exhaust as it sprays
under the car when in motion. Remember the oil is under a little pressure
and will look for the weakest way out.  

Oh and by the way folks, this is my opinion only. 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jan 24 18:58:06 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 01:58:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV119E58ECEC7C25B855B88EF4140@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV119E58ECEC7C25B855B88EF4140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA527DAB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Just resurrecting this thread as at the time this came up I was accumulating
parts for a front end refurb and I was curious to know how things worked.

In the end my rotors (EBC from TRF, purchased a few years ago) were stamped L
and R so based on that I put the one stamped L on the driver side and the
slots do sweep backwards

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202009%20Projects/sho
cksandrotors.jpg

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 6:36 PM
To: Joe Merone; 6 Pack list
Subject: Re: [6pack] Directional brake rotors

Joe---I just went to look at mine, and they are opposite to your description.
I think the idea here is to face the slots and drilling/dimples so that the
gasses, dust and debris gets thrown to the outside of the rotor.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Merone
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11:39 AM
To: 6 Pack list
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors

All:

I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors.  They
look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake
toys I just bought. But - they're directional.

Which way do the slots (//)
point?  My guess is that for the passenger side it's:

 // > front of
vehicle.

Correct?

Joe Merone
CF18928

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Jan 24 19:09:22 2009
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 21:09:22 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Welding Helmet Question
References: <20090122193450.0T4YT.3614942.root@mp11>
	<393815.60444.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BB429D77D0BB41338CCCDD695143907A@Alan>

I tried one of the other instructor's helmet and it has better viewing
capabilities ( rest shade) than the one I got from Snap On, and the HF, i
tried today.  I don't know the brand.

Al

  ----- Original Message -----
  From: johnehorton at yahoo.com
  To: tr6parts at charter.net
  Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 8:48 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Welding Helmet Question


  I replaced my harbor freight with a miller pro hobby.  A world of
difference. Pricy, however you get what you pay for. John H.




-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  From: "tr6parts at charter.net" <tr6parts at charter.net>
  To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; 6pack List
<6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net; Joe Curry <spitlist at cox.net>
  Sent: Thursday, January 22, 2009 5:34:50 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Welding Helmet Question

  I am taking a welding course now.
  The instructor said he has an expensive one and one from Harbor Freight ,
and the one from H.F. works just as well.
  They have auto adjusting ones from $39-49 on sale.

  Al
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Jan 24 20:22:02 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 24 Jan 2009 22:22:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] sealing block instillation difficulties
In-Reply-To: <c5c.43fea9eb.36ad18be@aol.com>
References: <c5c.43fea9eb.36ad18be@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47BDA9C21C284508BBBDE326C48B2D3D@BOBSNEWPC>

 Peter....it might be too late now but Marc GoldBlatt makes a steel front
saddle block so that stripped threads are a thing of the past. You can see
it here http://www.imaconstruction.com/sealingblock.htm  I'd never do
another aluminum one given this option.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, January 24, 2009 8:22 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] sealing block instillation difficulties

With my oil pan off, I decided to replace the front sealing block with the
striped out bolt holes. The PO tried to fix the striped holes with
heli-coils and larger bolts. They held enough that someone was able to crank
down on the bolts hard enough to bend the sealing block thereby causing the
pan to leak more.
 
I ordered a new aluminum sealing block from TRF. It was .060" longed than
the old one so I had to grind it down to size. I tried a dry fit it to the
block. I am having difficulties installing the screws holding it on to the
engine block. I am pushing it against the engine plate and gasket but can
not  get it to go over far enough to align the screw holes. Is there a trick
to this?  I do not want to remove the engine plate. 
 
Also, when I do the final installation, should I use gasket sealer and
where. Maybe a little Hylomar? When I removed the old block, part of the
gasket  on the engine plate pealed off, not much. Once again, I don't want
to remove the  engine plate to replace that gasket. One more thing, I do not
see what the two  small gaskets between the sealing block and engine block
do.
 
Thanks,
 
Peter Schoppelry
'69 TR6
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=htt
p://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Sun Jan 25 06:29:58 2009
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 08:29:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Petronix vs. staying with points
Message-ID: <e343023f0901250529t2cfdc8f2pf796ba5aeba96207@mail.gmail.com>

Greetings all:

As with most topics about our beloved cars, this one too has been covered in
the past, but begging your indulgence, I'm interested in re-generating it
once more particularly in light of TRF's current sale.

What are the noticeable advantages of installing the "all in one under the
distributor cap unit", vs the "box" unit that installs outside the
distributor?

If ones car is running perfectly, what differences will I see after
installing an electronic ignition unit? Will it start faster? idle smoother?
Run "better"?

Would enjoy hearing your comments and consensus.

Best,
Bob
'75 Six

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Jan 25 07:11:52 2009
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 09:11:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Petronix vs. staying with points
In-Reply-To: <e343023f0901250529t2cfdc8f2pf796ba5aeba96207@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e343023f0901250529t2cfdc8f2pf796ba5aeba96207@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <EB61CC1BF0594318AE38ADF38D061954@Robert>

In all the years I owned my TR6 I was let down once using the petronix
system. I liked the fact that once installed, you never had to worry. In my
case of failure, the crown which holds the six magnets, separated at the
seam and the magnets jumped and clustered together. The chances of that
happening are one in a million, so guess who got it. Wish I was that lucky
with the Powerball Lottery.

Having said that, Petronix acknowledged the defect and replaced the unit for
free. I never had a further issue.

When I completed the restoration on my TR3 I put a petronix unit into the
original distributor. It ran great. I heard about a new product Petronix was
making. It was a copy of the Lucas unit, but set up with a more smoother
curve. I installed it in my TR3 and, oh what a difference. Yes you can see
there is a slight difference in looks as the original cap has the spark club
wires coming in from the side, where as the new unit the cap is the top
mounted push on wire style. Still my TR3 is not concourse, but looks great,
runs great and is a thrill to drive. I can't wait till April to drive it
again.

Again guys, just my opinion.

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Jan 25 11:50:52 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 10:50:52 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Petronix vs. staying with points
References: <e343023f0901250529t2cfdc8f2pf796ba5aeba96207@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <009501c97f1d$d97396a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello,
Adding to the Pertronix Ignition question PLZ, will Pertronix work fine with
Lucas Sport coil?
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "robert fabie" <bobfabie at gmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 5:29 AM
Subject: [6pack] Petronix vs. staying with points


> Greetings all:
>
> As with most topics about our beloved cars, this one too has been covered
in
> the past, but begging your indulgence, I'm interested in re-generating it
> once more particularly in light of TRF's current sale.
>
> What are the noticeable advantages of installing the "all in one under the
> distributor cap unit", vs the "box" unit that installs outside the
> distributor?
>
> If ones car is running perfectly, what differences will I see after
> installing an electronic ignition unit? Will it start faster? idle
smoother?
> Run "better"?
>
> Would enjoy hearing your comments and consensus.
>
> Best,
> Bob
> '75 Six
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11610
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11610
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Jan 25 10:15:02 2009
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 12:15:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] rear axle lub
Message-ID: <200901251215.03060.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

I am looking at the specs for the rear axle lubricants and they specify GL4 90 
EP.

Is GL4 still required for 6 components and std gearbox or can I use a 
synthetic such as Mobil 1 75-90 GL5?

Thanks,

Bob

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Sun Jan 25 11:30:40 2009
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 11:30:40 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Heat Shield/Sound Dampening Product
In-Reply-To: <176B125F8A7E4FF2AFD6CD4FE00ACCBC@Robert>
References: <A64FE75C967A446AAD55A1FAB9F3F2FC@Robert>
	<49725A66.4@maine.rr.com> <176B125F8A7E4FF2AFD6CD4FE00ACCBC@Robert>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0901251030w40208810qfb37febaf10edad2@mail.gmail.com>

I used Second Skin's Damplifier Pro:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier-pro.php and couldn't
be happier. Went in like thick wallpaper. They have a forum site on their
web page where you can get tons of help and ask any questions. I could not
believe how much more "solid" the car now sounds. My feet no longer cook
during the AZ summers. The sound deader showdown that David provided the
link to earlier is what sold me. Not the cheapest product, just the best in
my opinion. Turns out the company is here in AZ and they even donated over
$400 in product to be raffled off at Triumphfest 2007. NFI.

A couple of pictures of the installation here: http://www.triumphowners.com/798


Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Sun Jan 25 12:09:16 2009
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 12:09:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0901251109w64230711u7f9ed058ab8f1798@mail.gmail.com>

A young lady pulled out of a parking lot and right into the passenger side
of my TR6 Wednesday while I was driving down the road. No one was hurt. The
car will now have an official "blemish" on Carfax. Anyone have any luck on
being compensated for the reduced value of their car? If so how did you
deterning the amount?

She caught the me just at the back of the passenger door depressing it in
and leaving a crease and the rear quarter panel is destroyed. Pulled it into
the rear wheel well starting at right behind the door and up to the wheel
well. It put a 2" hole in the tire and putting a small dent in the rim right
at where the tire seals against it. I had to bend the fender out of the way
to remove it from the tire and make space to get the spare on. The passenger
door is now rubbing on the post when you open and close it, the gap at the
front of the door is now closed some at the bottom of the door, I've got the
steering wheel turned 1/8 of a turn to the right to keep the car strait and
on the way home on the freeway the car floated all over the lane I was in at
60 MPH. The police officer was very professional, he even offer to give me a
lift with my under inflated spare to a gas station to fill it with air and
bring me back to the car but it ended up to have enough air to get me the
1/4 block to an air compressor. When it was time to leave I need to make a
left turn from the right lane to get to the gas station I had just passed so
he pulled his cruiser out into the street and stopped traffic so I could
safely make the left turn.

I had looked at her car while I was approach the drive she was coming out of
and she was at a complete stop. After I got almost even with her she pulled
out and right into me. I am thankful she gave me a little time before trying
to converse with me other than "Are you alright" and "I'll call the police".
I know she could could tell how upset I was. She later told me she has a 66
Chevelle and would be very upset if someone hit her 66 like she had just
done to me. I did calm down after a minute or two and even managed to
inquire about her and her dog's well being. Her car was leaking a little
fluid so I popped the hood made sure the radiator was OK and showed her that
is was only the windshield washer fluid that was dripping, even helped her
gather up the front end parts of her car that were scattered all over. She
balked a little when I was going to fold her front bumper in half to fit in
her trunk until she realized it was trash anyway and I wasn't hurting it any
more than it already was.

Put the car up on jack stands yesterday and got under the car. The only
damage I can see under the car is the outside trailing arm bracket is now U
shaped but the frame where it's attached looks OK. Explains at least some of
the alignment issues. Now waiting for the adjuster to call and make an
appointment to come to the house as I refused to drive it to their
center. She has Allstate insurance.

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From GSFuqua1 at aol.com  Sun Jan 25 12:29:46 2009
From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 14:29:46 EST
Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday
Message-ID: <d5b.3c3764a7.36ae17aa@aol.com>

Marty, I would suggest you contact your insurance company, assuming you  have 
someone like Grundy or Hagerty and ask them that question.  They may  very 
well be able to even subrogate with Allstate. i.e. Force them to pay what  they 
should.
 
Sorry man, I know you must be sick.  I sure would be.
 
On a more fun note I just returned from the Bob Bondurant High Performance  
Driving School in Phoenix (Chandler really), AZ.  Sure miss the weather as  it 
is COLD here in Missouri!!
 
Cheers,
 
Gary Fuqua
Classic Sports Cars
Branson, MO
**************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay 
up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023)

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Sun Jan 25 12:50:32 2009
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 14:50:32 EST
Subject: [6pack] rear axle lub
Message-ID: <c41.508c7f85.36ae1c88@aol.com>

Bob,
 
It is my understanding that GL5 has additives that will over time eat away  
the bronze washers and synchros in the diff and trans. When I drained the gear  
lube out of my diff on the 6, there was a sludge floating on the top which  I 
believe was the dissolved bronze washers. You can buy GL4 from TRF in  quart 
bottles. NAPA carries it also.
 
Peter Schoppelry
 
Bob writes:

Hello,

I am looking at the specs for the rear  axle lubricants and they specify GL4 
90 
EP.

Is GL4 still required for  6 components and std gearbox or can I use a 
synthetic such as Mobil 1 75-90  GL5?

Thanks,

Bob




**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Sun Jan 25 12:51:50 2009
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 12:51:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Petronix vs. staying with points
In-Reply-To: <009501c97f1d$d97396a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <e343023f0901250529t2cfdc8f2pf796ba5aeba96207@mail.gmail.com>
	<009501c97f1d$d97396a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0901251151w7cf8f8c1i7d25245433738cde@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,

I have had Pertronix ignition and the Lucas Sports coil together for
several years and that pair works very well together.
The Sports coil is wired directly from to the switched fuse to by-pass
the ballasted ignition wire.


Henri
75 TR6

On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 11:50 AM, Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:
> Hello,
> Adding to the Pertronix Ignition question PLZ, will Pertronix work fine with
> Lucas Sport coil?
> Regards,
> Bob
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "robert fabie" <bobfabie at gmail.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Sunday, January 25, 2009 5:29 AM
> Subject: [6pack] Petronix vs. staying with points
>
>
>> Greetings all:
>>
>> As with most topics about our beloved cars, this one too has been covered
> in
>> the past, but begging your indulgence, I'm interested in re-generating it
>> once more particularly in light of TRF's current sale.
>>
>> What are the noticeable advantages of installing the "all in one under the
>> distributor cap unit", vs the "box" unit that installs outside the
>> distributor?
>>
>> If ones car is running perfectly, what differences will I see after
>> installing an electronic ignition unit? Will it start faster? idle
> smoother?
>> Run "better"?
>>
>> Would enjoy hearing your comments and consensus.
>>
>> Best,
>> Bob
>> '75 Six
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
>> Database version: 5.11610
>> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
>
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11610
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sun Jan 25 13:08:47 2009
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 10:08:47 -1000
Subject: [6pack] OT - Spit question
Message-ID: <D9148D92DA9C45BC953A2786C524F24F@PamHome>

Aloha all,

A friend of mine has a '76 Spitfire 1500 with a fan clutch that is making lots
of noise.  He bought an electric fan to replace it.

My question is: Can he remove the fan clutch from the water pump and call it a
day or must something go in it's place?

Thanks,

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Jan 25 20:43:15 2009
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 19:43:15 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Petronix vs. staying with points -sport coil
References: <e343023f0901250529t2cfdc8f2pf796ba5aeba96207@mail.gmail.com>
	<009501c97f1d$d97396a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<83dfea6b0901251151w7cf8f8c1i7d25245433738cde@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <00ea01c97f68$387e2fd0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello,
Thank you to all that responded to my question of the Sport Coil working OK
with the Pertronix Ignition.
I asked because I already have the sport coil in my car.
I am still waiting for a response to the "other" Bob's question below.
:~)
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob

> Greetings all:
> As with most topics about our beloved cars, this one too has been covered
>in the past, but begging your indulgence, I'm interested in re-generating
it
> once more particularly in light of TRF's current sale.
> What are the noticeable advantages of installing the "all in one under the
> distributor cap unit", vs the "box" unit that installs outside the
> distributor? If ones car is running perfectly, what differences will I see
after
> installing an electronic ignition unit? Will it start faster? idle
smoother?
> Run "better"?
> Would enjoy hearing your comments and consensus.
>
> Best,
> Bob
> '75 Six






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11610
http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Sun Jan 25 19:25:33 2009
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 18:25:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Electronic Ignition Experience
Message-ID: <528000.60996.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I've had a Crane electronic ignition for 8 years.   Smooth and rock solid
reliability.   From previous discussion, reliability with Petronix appears to
be different.   Its a small black box unit, so folks concerned with looking
original may not like Crane.    

I seem to need to sand down the rear top
edge of my rotor to avoid interference with this system.   That's been the
only hassle.

Do it again?,  gee a Mallory electronic distributor with
adjustable advance would be sweet, but you also need an electric tach.  
Bruce Simms
73 TR6
__________________________________________________________________
Be smarter
than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the
All-new Yahoo! Mail.  Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or
register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Sun Jan 25 20:39:04 2009
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty)
Date: Sun, 25 Jan 2009 20:39:04 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday
In-Reply-To: <20090126010212.QUSN28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <bec.32032159.36ae5cdb@aol.com>
	<20090126010212.QUSN28583.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0901251939r3f317ca4rb94e36bcc1d21e0b@mail.gmail.com>

Sound like I better get Hagerty involved.

Thanks everyone for the help!

Marty
On Sun, Jan 25, 2009 at 6:02 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:

> > I don't know who your insurance company is; but if its classic
> > car  insurance, I'd get them involved
>
> That is excellent advice, even if you don't have "classic" insurance
> (assuming you do have collision coverage).  They will explain the financial
> options to you, help you get estimates, and if you choose to do so, pay to
> have the car repaired (and then go after the other company to cover it).
>
> Dunno about Allstate, but a friend of mine has his Lotus insured with
> Mercury as a regular car.  Someone backed into it in a parking lot, and
> Mercury is paying over $13K for repairs.  If they manage to find the
> responsible party (it was hit and run, car is registered to a holding
> company) he'll get back his deductible.
>
> Randall

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Sun Jan 25 23:48:11 2009
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Brits'n'Pieces (Eric Frenken))
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 07:48:11 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Electronic Ignition Experience
In-Reply-To: <528000.60996.qm@web65612.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAPO6xBf31l1Dm6bMijCNPYbCgAAAEAAAAIF4v6deNOdGqZwK7aVC41UBAAAAAA==@brits-n-pieces.com>

Not necessarily, Bruce.

http://brits-n-pieces.com/shop/product_info.php/info/p7296

Best regards

Eric

Bruce Simms wrote:
I've had a Crane electronic ignition for 8 years.   Smooth and rock solid
reliability.   From previous discussion, reliability with Petronix appears
to
be different.   Its a small black box unit, so folks concerned with looking
original may not like Crane.    

I seem to need to sand down the rear top
edge of my rotor to avoid interference with this system.   That's been the
only hassle.

Do it again?,  gee a Mallory electronic distributor with adjustable advance
would be sweet, but you also need an electric tach.  
Bruce Simms
73 TR6

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Jan 26 07:23:09 2009
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 Jan 2009 09:23:09 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR] My TR6 Hit Last Wednesday
Message-ID: <d54.44794175.36af214d@aol.com>

Marty,
 
Very sad news and certainly good that no one was injured.  One of our  club 
members had an unfortunate similar incident last fall when a woman in an  SUV 
talking on a cell phone pulled out of a diner and caught the front passenger  
wing of his TR2 and proceeded to extend the damage down the whole side of the  
car while pushing him across another lane into a concrete barrier.  He was  
okay but the TR2 was totaled.
 
My advice from his experience and a few of my own.......any concern  (sincere 
or otherwise) shown by the other driver has to be tempered with a great  deal 
of reality checks - YOU are the victim, YOU deserve full  compensation.  No, 
I am not a lawyer just a guy who believes in the old  adage: "the cost causer 
pays".
 
Take your car to a reputable and respected British car restoration &  service 
shop and have it checked over thoroughly by experts.  It wouldn't  surprise 
me if the other driver's insurance company wanted to send their  adjuster out 
to make an appraisal on your car but it's very doubtful that this  appraiser 
has done many antique cars let alone British stuff so the result  wouldn't be 
very realistic.  From the way you described the handling on the  highway after 
the collision, I'm guessing that the rear suspension on the  passenger side 
and/or frame may be damaged or compromised to some extent.
 
Good luck, have patience.
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
**************A Good Credit Score is 700 or Above. See yours in just 2 easy 
steps! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1215855013x1201028747/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072%26hmpgID=62%26bcd=De
cemailfooterNO62)

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Jan 26 18:32:11 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 01:32:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 at VTR, 2007, wondering what tires these are..
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA528112@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

The pretty red TR6 in the image at the other end of the link below was at
Valley Forge in 2007.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/DSC_0304.jp
g

(you may have to piece that link back together, sorry about that, tinyurl is
not cooperating either)

I'm pretty sure I chatted to the owner but have no recollection of who it was
although I remember the car well of course.

I was wondering what tire size this car has. I like the proportions with the
Panasports. They are probably 205/65 or 205/70 as they don't fill the wheel
well as much as the 215/70's would. If this is your car and you recall what
size tires these are (they are marked Toyo  Proxess TPT) please let me know as
I'm thinking of switching tires.. again..

Stan

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Tue Jan 27 09:06:16 2009
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 08:06:16 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] modern English cars
Message-ID: <341502.1075.qm@web52510.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all. First off, thanks for the clutch slave cylinder comments. I am planning on doing a rebuild as it seams the safest route. Nothing wrong with saving a few pesos as well.

Second, I have a non-Triumph question which I apologize for asking here but I  thought this would be the best group to ask that I know of. I ordered a new Mini Cooper S last night. I am guessing someone (probably several) out there has also bought one. Does anyone have any experience with the Leatherette vs. real Leather seats? I ordered the Tuscan Beige Leather but I am starting to worry it could be a pain to keep clean and I could save $1500 by going with the standard grey leatherette. Any comments off the list would be appreciated. I told the salesperson not to put in the order until he hears from me.

Thanks as always.

Ian

Ian Breyer
New Haven, CT 06511
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com

From altomare.steven at gmail.com  Tue Jan 27 09:15:11 2009
From: altomare.steven at gmail.com (Steven Altomare)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 11:15:11 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 at VTR, 2007, wondering what tires these are..
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA528112@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <AcmAHxN3vOcuCrp3T3acYcL4Bx6vag==>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA528112@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <f23b4b4d0901270815k3df6582fy98ad17e9bdfb721@mail.gmail.com>

Stan,

Its not my car, but I didn't see a list response so I thought I'd chime in.

I can't tell if they're 15 or 16 inch (I'm really bad about that), but
I'd guess they're 205/65's because according to Toyo's website they
don't make any 70 series tires in 15 or 16 Proxes TPT's.

You can check out the sizes they offer here :

http://tinyurl.com/cqbkxj

Steven

On Mon, Jan 26, 2009 at 8:32 PM, Foster, Stan (HP IT)
<stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:
> The pretty red TR6 in the image at the other end of the link below was at
> Valley Forge in 2007.
>
> http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/DSC_0304.jp
> g
>
> (you may have to piece that link back together, sorry about that, tinyurl is
> not cooperating either)
>
> I'm pretty sure I chatted to the owner but have no recollection of who it was
> although I remember the car well of course.
>
> I was wondering what tire size this car has. I like the proportions with the
> Panasports. They are probably 205/65 or 205/70 as they don't fill the wheel
> well as much as the 215/70's would. If this is your car and you recall what
> size tires these are (they are marked Toyo  Proxess TPT) please let me know as
> I'm thinking of switching tires.. again..
>
> Stan

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Tue Jan 27 09:17:46 2009
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 11:17:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] modern English cars
In-Reply-To: <341502.1075.qm@web52510.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <341502.1075.qm@web52510.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0100AD381A7B@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

First of all, keep in mind that the Mini Cooper is NOT (or no longer is) a
British car.  It is owned and built by BMW.  Maybe in England, but I'm not
sure.  The old British "leather cloth" that was used many years ago in the
Triumphs was tough as nails.  I don't know exactly what the Germans are using
in their Minis, but my experience with BMWs is that the materials they use are
very good.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Ian Breyer [ianbreyer at yahoo.com]
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] modern English cars

Hi all. First off, thanks for the clutch slave cylinder comments. I am
planning on doing a rebuild as it seams the safest route. Nothing wrong with
saving a few pesos as well.

Second, I have a non-Triumph question which I apologize for asking here but I
thought this would be the best group to ask that I know of. I ordered a new
Mini Cooper S last night. I am guessing someone (probably several) out there
has also bought one. Does anyone have any experience with the Leatherette vs.
real Leather seats? I ordered the Tuscan Beige Leather but I am starting to
worry it could be a pain to keep clean and I could save $1500 by going with
the standard grey leatherette. Any comments off the list would be appreciated.
I told the salesperson not to put in the order until he hears from me.

Thanks as always.

Ian

Ian Breyer
New Haven, CT 06511
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From gpl at fuse.net  Tue Jan 27 09:33:31 2009
From: gpl at fuse.net (george leicht)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 11:33:31 -0500
Subject: [6pack] modern English cars
In-Reply-To: <341502.1075.qm@web52510.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <EA.CE.13594.1673F794@gwout1>

Ian,  we got the leatherette (2004 Mini S) and the mini car seat covers.
Pull off the covers and the seats are still pristine!  Besides,  the real
treat was the seat warmers.  

george
Cincinnati OH

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ian Breyer
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 11:06 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] modern English cars

<snip>

Leatherette vs. real Leather seats? I ordered the Tuscan Beige Leather but I
am starting to worry it could be a pain to keep clean and I could save $1500
by going with the standard grey leatherette. Any comments off the list would
be appreciated. I told the salesperson not to put in the order until he
hears from me.

Thanks as always.

Ian

From TR250Driver at aol.com  Tue Jan 27 16:29:04 2009
From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 18:29:04 EST
Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratios TR250 Heads
Message-ID: <d23.34955735.36b0f2c0@aol.com>

Hey Guys,
The 250's engine is in pieces  as part of the ongoing rebuild.  I  am sort of 
at a decision point on the cylinder head.  Current head original  to the 
motor is 3.420" and the block is bored .030 over. They are telling me  that this 
is giving a compression ratio of 9.5 to 1. We will need to bore  the original 
block to .040 which would raise the compression to 9.7 to  1.  
 
My goal with this Triumph is to build a stock  motor.  Previously the 250 was 
pretty powerful from 3,000 revs to the  redline. It was fun and I tore it up 
pretty good. It was also  impossible to tune for an acceptable idle. With the 
stock goal in mind, I  have been given the following options.  An uncut 69 
early TR6 head is  available for rebuild which is claimed to return the 
compression to the desired  stock 8.5 to 1.  Actually I believe stock may have been 8.6 
to  1. Those heads would be the same correct? This claim seems to omit the  
oversize bore as a function of compression?  Confused about that. Also  what if 
the block has been decked?  Should I inquire? 
 
Also I have asked for a stock grind on the camshaft.  Would that  profile 
effect compression? In addition I have a complete TR250 motor from  another car 
that has never been touched but numbers don't match my car.   Too many choices 
and I don't want to regret what get's done so I would  appreciate the 
advantage of having the wisdom of the List.
 
Thanks in Advance,
Darrell
 
 
**************From Wall Street to Main Street and everywhere in between, stay 
up-to-date with the latest news. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000023)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jan 27 16:46:04 2009
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 15:46:04 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratios TR250 Heads
In-Reply-To: <d23.34955735.36b0f2c0@aol.com>
References: <d23.34955735.36b0f2c0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573D1A4EFE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Darrell:

	Keep your current head, even though compression will go to 9.7:1.

	Your current head will give you more torque, more high end and better fuel
economy - and it does not affect drivability or idle quality. You can even run
regular unleaded. If you engine does not already have them, add hardened valve
seats to the exhaust valves. If your block is decked, then these benefits are
enhanced with no downside. The only downside to increased compression is
increased NOx emissions, and if it is high enough the need for premium fuel.
9.7:1 should still run just fine on regular.
	Your drivability issues are all driven by the health of your engine (rings,
valve guides, carbs, etc) and the camshaft. If you cannot get a good idle, and
you are certain the rest of your engine is healthy (no blown head gaskets, no
vacuum leaks, valve lash is good, etc) then your cam is the thing to look at.
	As for a stock cam, I am not certain about the TR250, but I believe that it
used the 240 degree cam used in the early TR6s. Instead of this cam, I would
use the cam used in the later TR6s, the 256 degree cam (both used 110 degree
lobe centers). Both cams will give you a velvety smooth idle, but the later
cam is good for about 20 HP over the earlier cam. Both cams return good fuel
economy and are very tolerant of vacuum leaks and other minor problems.

	All in my humble opinion, of course....

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TR250Driver at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, January 27, 2009 3:29 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratios TR250 Heads

Hey Guys,
The 250's engine is in pieces  as part of the ongoing rebuild.  I  am sort of
at a decision point on the cylinder head.  Current head original  to the
motor is 3.420" and the block is bored .030 over. They are telling me  that
this
is giving a compression ratio of 9.5 to 1. We will need to bore  the original
block to .040 which would raise the compression to 9.7 to  1.

My goal with this Triumph is to build a stock  motor.  Previously the 250 was
pretty powerful from 3,000 revs to the  redline. It was fun and I tore it up
pretty good. It was also  impossible to tune for an acceptable idle.

<snip>

Also I have asked for a stock grind on the camshaft.  Would that  profile
effect compression? In addition I have a complete TR250 motor from  another
car
that has never been touched but numbers don't match my car.   Too many choices
and I don't want to regret what get's done so I would  appreciate the
advantage of having the wisdom of the List.

Thanks in Advance,
Darrell

From apackard68 at att.net  Tue Jan 27 21:06:24 2009
From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 20:06:24 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Rear trim pieces
Message-ID: <20090128040905.A15FD187651@autox.team.net>

Hi everyone 

I took the rear wheel well trim pieces I was graciously sent by a list
member (paying it forward) to the auto upholstery shop today.  He was able
to match my color and texture perfectly and said he could make both pieces
easily in two days by using the old pieces as a pattern.  I asked for an
extra = yard to be ordered so I can cover the door gussets and the b-post
filler piece.  I see the filler piece in diagrams but cannot clearly
envision how it is properly installed.  Does someone out there have a photo
or a detailed explanation of how this piece is used?



I am also trying to install a flush-mount overhead light in the trim of the
surrey top backlight.  Has anyone tried this?  Ive seen the installation of
a light in the middle of the w/s frame, but not in the backlight.  I plan on
using a small square of metal to mount the light and wire it to a switch
Ill likely place in the center console/arm rest.



Andy

CD6746L HVDA

Getting closer . . .

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue Jan 27 22:12:47 2009
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Tue, 27 Jan 2009 22:12:47 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 at VTR, 2007, wondering what tires these are..
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FA528112@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <D184E9DA273E4F1F909DD951D147D5E9@rolofson>

Stan,

That's not my car but I did do a double take before being sure.  Here's a pic
of my TR6 at VTR2007, along with a couple "Other" TR6s, Richard Good (standing
by his green beauty) and Marty Sukey's good ole blue car (may it RIP) with his
bride Evelyn standing nearby.  Some fast company I was keeping that day!

What you see in the 2007 picture is what I'm still running, 16 inch Panasports
with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires on.  I love them in wet and dry
conditions, from CO to PA and back with an autocross in the middle.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Foster, Stan (HP IT)
  To: '6pack List'
  Sent: Monday, January 26, 2009 6:32 PM
  Subject: [6pack] TR6 at VTR, 2007, wondering what tires these are..


  The pretty red TR6 in the image at the other end of the link below was at
  Valley Forge in 2007.

  http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/DSC_0304.
jp
  g

  (you may have to piece that link back together, sorry about that, tinyurl
is
  not cooperating either)

  I'm pretty sure I chatted to the owner but have no recollection of who it
was
  although I remember the car well of course.

  I was wondering what tire size this car has. I like the proportions with
the
  Panasports. They are probably 205/65 or 205/70 as they don't fill the wheel
  well as much as the 215/70's would. If this is your car and you recall what
  size tires these are (they are marked Toyo  Proxess TPT) please let me know
as
  I'm thinking of switching tires.. again..

  Stan
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture 194.jpg]

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed Jan 28 08:44:30 2009
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 28 Jan 2009 07:44:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] su carb conversion
Message-ID: <666298.70593.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

gm all dealing with ebay is nothing but a hassle i have a tr6 su conversion for sale redone by Joe Curto asking 350.00 i think very reasonable i'n in ny can deliver up yo 50 miles of 10965 area code 

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/octet-stream which had a name of IMG_0024[1]]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture nicholas 006.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Picture nicholas 002.jpg]

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Jan 28 17:09:45 2009
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 00:09:45 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Standard Triumph on YouTube
Message-ID: <4903C5B386294990B80A9CBD52EE6E66@Bevan>

Maybe this has already been covered in earlier posts to the lists and I missed them over the years 
I've been subscribing. But following a casual wander around YouTube, I've found some archive footage 
of the factory in Coventry if anyone's interested?
The first film at www.youtube.com/watch?v=tN4qwW5ceGU shows the assembly line at Canley when the 
Standard 8 saloon (aka Triumph 10) was being made. This was made a good five years before the new 
Assembly Hall was commissioned in 1959 to build the Herald as its first customer. Although the film 
doesn't show it, the sidescreen TR assembly line was opposite the one for the 8. Sorry, TR owners 
but you won't see any as this is obviously a PR production for the 8. However you will see someone 
that many knew in recent years as a Triumph World columnist and that's Robin Penrice. Robin is the 
younger of the two boys in school uniform with his brother Peter and their Mum, Gwen Penrice. 
Robin's Dad, Ivor Penrice was Publicity Manager at Standard and this is obviously why his house and 
family took part. Low budget, see? The shoot was outside their home near Coventry, as are the shots 
of the car being driven along a very well-known road between Coventry and Kenilworth. I can't 
currently identify the driver, though his face is familiar.
While I doubt anyone on these lists will have any interest in Ferguson tractors (I wish I still had 
mine to play with) the next film at www.youtube.com/watch?v=DCEgSB8qjRs&NR=1 shows Standard-Triumphs 
other Coventry factory at Banner Lane on the western outskirts of the city. Built in two years just 
before WW2 to make aircraft engines this later became Massey Ferguson's European tractor plant. It 
has entirely vanished and is now a housing estate!
Enjoy!

Jonmac 

From raggott at hotmail.com  Thu Jan 29 12:01:45 2009
From: raggott at hotmail.com (raggott at hotmail.com)
Date: Thu, 29 Jan 2009 11:01:45 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Vacation reply
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1233255602.24180.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <BAY0-MC7-F8FA154275FBA14D0197EDB3C90@phx.gbl>


From mgc4 at cdc.gov  Fri Jan 30 07:22:19 2009
From: mgc4 at cdc.gov (Campsmith, Michael (CDC/CCID/NCHHSTP))
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 09:22:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] need seat frames for 1970-72 TR6
Message-ID: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC6029D0965@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov>

I tried to send this earlier but had  technical  problems--please excuse
multiple postings.



I have had fitment  issues trying to make aftermarket seats work for my
1974 TR6, and I don't want to repad/recover the stock low-back bucket
seats.



Does anyone have a pair of seats (driver and passenger) for a 1970-72
TR6?  I plan to repad and recover so the condition of the soft pieces is
irrelevant.  However, I do want to have intact frames and all the
internal wires.



If you have seats to sell let's talk --please contact me off-list at
mcampsmith2640 at comcast.net.  Driving season is coming up and I'd like to
finally finish my interior this year.



Many thanks to the list.



Michael Campsmith

1974 TR6 (now BRG)

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Fri Jan 30 08:39:34 2009
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 10:39:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Petronix Info - Thanks to all
Message-ID: <e343023f0901300739q5f18634ala36f934422daf974@mail.gmail.com>

Just a note to say thanks to all who responded to my question about
switching to electronic ignition. Your comments were helpful and much
appreciated. I will report my results when I install my unit.

Thanks
Bob Fabie
'75 Six

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Jan 30 09:00:38 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 11:00:38 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Petronix Info - Thanks to all
In-Reply-To: <e343023f0901300739q5f18634ala36f934422daf974@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e343023f0901300739q5f18634ala36f934422daf974@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901301055330.7521@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Speaking of Pertronix... has anyone tried using the new Ignitor II?

I switched to the Ignitor on my street car some time ago (maybe two years 
ago, I forget) but the one thing I don't like is that the dwell is fixed 
at 35 degrees and I'm used to using 42 degrees for various reasons.

At any rate the P II literature that I've seen is sketchy regarding the 
dewll angle for the newer unit, and before I plunk down another $100 or 
so, I wanted to know if anyone has direct experience that they might 
share.

I promise I'll "share", one way or the other (input from others or on my 
own).

Still trying to decide - 13:1 motor, new cam in old motor, new cam and 
1.65:1 roller rockers in old motor, carillo rods... there are so many 
choices.

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From janah at att.net  Fri Jan 30 13:45:43 2009
From: janah at att.net (janah at att.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 20:45:43 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
Message-ID: <013020092045.20723.498366F7000B4F9A000050F322218683269B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>

Hi all-

Please forgive the cute subject line, but I wanted to get some input regarding
rocker assemblies as I am reaching the point in my engine rebuild where I need
to think about the head. I have many questions.

What exactly wears in the rocker assembly?
I hear that the TR6 rockers can't be bushed?
Does this mean that the Rocker Arms need to be replaced?
Does it make sense to go with roller rockers instead?
Holland & Sharpe vs. Richard Good?
I really hate valve clatter (sewing machine sound). If I were to go with
roller rockers would this go away?
Do I need to replace the pedestals?
The rocker assembly uses springs to keep the rockers in place.  I have seen
spacers that take the place of the springs.  So springs or spacers?

Thanks for Now,
John Cyg

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri Jan 30 13:57:44 2009
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 12:57:44 -0800
Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] rubber vs. urethane vs others
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD908@MAIN.RSC.local>

Seeing the TRF Weekend specials raises the question of which type of
front suspension bushings are the best for just driving around.  I am
not going to race (on a track) or do auto-cross.  I want something that
is going to provide a decent ride but not need to be replaced in a few
years because it has deteriorated.  I am okay with a firmer suspension,
I have the sport suspension on my 325, but I hate the jar when I hit
rough pavement (which might in part be due to the low profile tire).



For those of you that have used urethane, how would you rate the
difference in ride quality?



Is there a difference between different urethane, polyurethane, nylatron
and any others out there?



Any recommendations?



Bob Clark
'69 TR6

From janah at att.net  Fri Jan 30 16:22:57 2009
From: janah at att.net (janah at att.net)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 23:22:57 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901301602500.7521@isis.mit.edu>
References: <013020092045.20723.498366F7000B4F9A000050F322218683269B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901301602500.7521@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <013020092322.15349.49838BD10009968A00003BF522230680329B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>

Some follow-up clarification?

<snip> Then I go set FTD. That is so awesome, words can't explain it. <snip> What is FTD?

<snip> Adjunct to the cost, what do you want to do with this motor?<snip>

I want to recover as much of the TR6PI performance as I can.  I am really a 40 mph back roads kind of guy, but I do want to be able to jump on the highway and come home fast.  I might also like to go to the track and wind it out. Camshaft will be the TR6PI/TR5 PI profile.

<snip> Loose tappets can only be fixed by re-sleeving the block (expensive and not justifiable) or replacing the block (expensive and probably overkill) <snip>  This is a long way of saying "live with it"?

Regards,
John Cyg

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Jan 30 16:40:33 2009
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT))
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 23:40:33 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
In-Reply-To: <013020092045.20723.498366F7000B4F9A000050F322218683269B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
References: <013020092045.20723.498366F7000B4F9A000050F322218683269B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FDBDABCD@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

John, my experience is that the shaft wears and the pads on the ends of the
rockers wear and eventually the rockers cant be adjusted and due to the way
the pads are hardened you cant just grind them flat. The roller rocker
alleviate both of these problems and in addition offer other options for
greater ratios that open the valves wider and get more combustables into the
chamber. If your rocker assembly needs to be replaced the roller rockers will
cost you a few hundred dollars more.

I wanted a complete system that worked together so I went with Richards GP2
cam, shortened tubular pushrods, valve guides/seals and springs and roller
rockers and I have no regrets. The engine dyno's at 105 rwhp (9.6:a1 c/r) and
I haven't touched the ignition or exhaust yet so I'm assuming I have another
10HP locked up waiting to be freed, more if I flow the head. Performance is
comparable to the early PI which was my goal. I have a few tips if you do go
down the Goodparts path.

FTD is Fastest Time of the Day.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of janah at att.net
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 3:46 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?

Hi all-

Please forgive the cute subject line, but I wanted to get some input
regarding
rocker assemblies as I am reaching the point in my engine rebuild where I
need
to think about the head. I have many questions.

What exactly wears in the rocker assembly?
I hear that the TR6 rockers can't be bushed?
Does this mean that the Rocker Arms need to be replaced?
Does it make sense to go with roller rockers instead?
Holland & Sharpe vs. Richard Good?
I really hate valve clatter (sewing machine sound). If I were to go with
roller rockers would this go away?
Do I need to replace the pedestals?
The rocker assembly uses springs to keep the rockers in place.  I have seen
spacers that take the place of the springs.  So springs or spacers?

Thanks for Now,
John Cyg
_______________________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jan 30 17:49:29 2009
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 19:49:29 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] rubber vs. urethane vs others
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD908@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD908@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <8D66FB367D51465FA47E9AB7F903A70A@BOBSNEWPC>

Bob,
I've got Nylatron in the front, in the trailing arms and in the diff
mounts.....and the solid aluminum steering mounts. You do get more road
feedback but the car also feels much tighter.  Ride quality is a subjective
thing but these cars are 30-40 years old and ride quality was never a
selling point anyway. If they ever need replacement, I'd go the same route
and use Nylatron.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert N. Clark
Sent: Friday, January 30, 2009 3:58 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] rubber vs. urethane vs others

Seeing the TRF Weekend specials raises the question of which type of front
suspension bushings are the best for just driving around.  I am not going to
race (on a track) or do auto-cross.  I want something that is going to
provide a decent ride but not need to be replaced in a few years because it
has deteriorated.  I am okay with a firmer suspension, I have the sport
suspension on my 325, but I hate the jar when I hit rough pavement (which
might in part be due to the low profile tire).



For those of you that have used urethane, how would you rate the difference
in ride quality?



Is there a difference between different urethane, polyurethane, nylatron and
any others out there?



Any recommendations?



Bob Clark
'69 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri Jan 30 18:27:08 2009
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 17:27:08 -0800
Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] rubber vs. urethane vs others
In-Reply-To: <8D66FB367D51465FA47E9AB7F903A70A@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD908@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<8D66FB367D51465FA47E9AB7F903A70A@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD90D@MAIN.RSC.local>

Answering my own question, here is everything one wants to know about
Nylatron

http://www.alro.com/DIVPlastics/plastic_product_nylatron.htm


Bob Clark
'69 TR6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Jan 30 20:12:47 2009
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 30 Jan 2009 22:12:47 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
In-Reply-To: <013020092322.15349.49838BD10009968A00003BF522230680329B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
References: <013020092045.20723.498366F7000B4F9A000050F322218683269B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901301602500.7521@isis.mit.edu>
	<013020092322.15349.49838BD10009968A00003BF522230680329B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0901302203180.11566@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 30 Jan 2009 janah at att.net wrote:

> Some follow-up clarification?
>
> <snip> Then I go set FTD. That is so awesome, words can't explain it. 
> <snip> What is FTD?

FTD == fastest time of the day.

> <snip> Adjunct to the cost, what do you want to do with this motor?<snip>

exactly.

> I want to recover as much of the TR6PI performance as I can.  I am 
> really a 40 mph back roads kind of guy, but I do want to be able to jump 
> on the highway and come home fast.  I might also like to go to the track 
> and wind it out. Camshaft will be the TR6PI/TR5 PI profile.

That later PI cam is 308778, right? That's a 280 degree cam with 110 
centers. That should pull okay.

> <snip> Loose tappets can only be fixed by re-sleeving the block 
> (expensive and not justifiable) or replacing the block (expensive and 
> probably overkill) <snip> This is a long way of saying "live with it"?

Yes, if that's what your problem is. Most folks that sleeve are doing it 
to convert to other size lifters (like the Ford GT40 lifters, for 
example).

> Regards,
> John Cyg

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Jan 31 00:30:24 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 07:30:24 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV1366C568565D06EBAB725DF4C70@phx.gbl>

Janah---It would probably more costly to get your rockers rebushed than purchasing new (stock) ones. Take a look at the rocker shaft, as these usually wear out quicker than the rockers. (Measure the shaft, or move the shaft down into an unworn area to see if it feels less loose). Stock rockers can give many miles of good service, and are a good bet. As others have wrote, the rollers are mostly for changing the ratio, and or part of a high performance cam go-along. There are some side benefits for these that can reduce valve guide wear.

I'm guessing that the "clatter" you hear is not really "tappet" or cam follower noise, but some looseness in the rocker and shaft, along with flattening in the face of the rocker tips. Check the valve lash to be sure you can't adjust out of this.

The pedestals can last "forever". And the springs between the rockers can do a good job. Spacers in their stead do little if any to improve performance. Marketing claims for these spacers say they reduce friction. I would think keeping the rocker tip to valve stem more consistant and would be a more valid point for race engines. I have no way of proving or disproving any of this rambling!

Dick

From janah at att.net  Sat Jan 31 05:04:25 2009
From: janah at att.net (janah at att.net)
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 12:04:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV1366C568565D06EBAB725DF4C70@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <013120091204.25271.49843E48000D40E5000062B722230703729B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>

Hi Dick,

Thanks for the reply. My engine has been apart since August and is at the
shop.  Just delivered pistons, bearings and more money - yikes!

But we are starting to think about the head.  I did try setting valve lash,
but it still sounded like an old sewing machine.  Maybe that is what these
engines all sound like, I don't have enough experiance to know.  Since I am
doing a complete teardown and rebuild, I think I have some options. I could
have the rocker assy, rebuilt - they turn the shaft back to round, chrome it
for hardness and bush the rockers (~$125 delivered). The price is right, but
if the tips of the rockers are worn a rebuild will not correct this.  How much
of a problem is this?  The next route, is to replace the rocker, springs and
shaft. This is about $225.  Finally I have seen these Holland & Sharp roller
rockers (1.5 ratio) that can use the shaft, springs and pedastals.  So if I
replace the shaft and get the roller rockers, I think I am looking at ~$480.
Not sure what to do here. If one of these strategies - even the more expensive
ones - were to promise to get rid of the clatter, I would take it.  On the
otherhand, since I will be replacing the pushrods and tappets, maybe things
will be much better anyway?

John Cyg.
-------------- Original message from "Sally or Dick Taylor"
<tr6taylor at webtv.net>: --------------

Janah---It would probably more costly to get your rockers rebushed than
purchasing new (stock) ones. Take a look at the rocker shaft, as these usually
wear out quicker than the rockers. (Measure the shaft, or move the shaft down
into an unworn area to see if it feels less loose). Stock rockers can give
many miles of good service, and are a good bet. As others have wrote, the
rollers are mostly for changing the ratio, and or part of a high performance
cam go-along.
> There are some side benefits for these that can reduce valve guide wear.
> I'm guessing that the "clatter" you hear is not really "tappet" or cam
follower noise, but some looseness in the rocker and shaft, along with
flattening in the face of the rocker tips. Check the valve lash to be sure you
can't adjust out of
> this.
> The pedestals can last "forever". And the springs between the rockers can do
a good job. Spacers in their stead do little if any to improve performance.
> Marketing claims for these spacers say they reduce friction. I would think
> keeping the rocker tip to valve stem more consistant and would be a more
valid
> point for race engines. I have no way of proving or disproving any of this
> rambling!
>
> Dick

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Sat Jan 31 08:39:26 2009
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 10:39:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
In-Reply-To: <013120091204.25271.49843E48000D40E5000062B722230703729B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
References: <013120091204.25271.49843E48000D40E5000062B722230703729B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
Message-ID: <498470AE.7070008@optonline.net>

Hi John, Dick,

I had my rockers re-done by ROCKER ARM SPECIALISTS years ago with great 
results. They bronze bushed the rockers & supplied
a hardened shaft. If the rocker pad is worn they dress them as long as 
things remain in spec. I think it's pretty normal for this motor to make 
valve train noise. It's slightly louder with an after market cam because 
of larger lash settings. I've heard that roller rockers are noisier but 
have no personal experience with them.
Enjoy the process, it pays off in tons of fun.

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Jan 31 13:30:11 2009
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 31 Jan 2009 20:30:11 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV73BA31E618582C96EE346F4C70@phx.gbl>

John---My reply, all "20 lines of it", got bounced for being too long. I'm not
going to shorten it to satisfy the "program". I guess is should delete the
original post before sending in my reply.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: janah at att.net
Sent: Saturday, January 31, 2009 4:04 AM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers?

Hi Dick,

Thanks for the reply. My engine has been apart since August and is at the
shop.  Just delivered pistons, bearings and more money - yikes!

But we are starting to think about the head.  I did try setting valve lash,
but it still sounded like an old sewing machine.  Maybe that is what these
engines all sound like, I don't have enough experiance to know.  Since I am
doing a complete teardown and rebuild, I think I have some options. I could
have the rocker assy, rebuilt - they turn the shaft back to round, chrome it
for hardness and bush the rockers (~$125 delivered). The price is right, but
if the tips of the rockers are worn a rebuild will not correct this.  How much
of a problem is this?  The next route, is to replace the rocker, springs and
shaft. This is about $225.  Finally I have seen these Holland & Sharp roller
rockers (1.5 ratio) that can use the shaft, springs and pedastals.  So if I
replace the shaft and get the roller rockers, I think I am looking at ~$480.
Not sure what to do here. If one of these strategies - even the more expensive
ones - were to promise to get rid of the clatter, I would take it.  On the
otherhand, since I will be replacing the pushrods and tappets, maybe things
will be much better anyway?

John Cyg.
-------------- Original message from "Sally or Dick Taylor"
<tr6taylor at webtv.net>: --------------

Janah---It would probably more costly to get your rockers rebushed than
purchasing new (stock) ones. Take a look at the rocker shaft, as these usually
wear out quicker than the rockers. (Measure the shaft, or move the shaft down
into an unworn area to see if it feels less loose). Stock rockers can give
many miles of good service, and are a good bet. As others have wrote, the
rollers are mostly for changing the ratio, and or part of a high performance
cam go-along.
> There are some side benefits for these that can reduce valve guide wear
> I'm guessing that the "clatter" you hear is not really "tappet" or cam
follower noise, but some looseness in the rocker and shaft, along with
flattening in the face of the rocker tips. Check the valve lash to be sure you
can't adjust out of
> this.
> The pedestals can last "forever". And the springs between the rockers can do
a good job. Spacers in their stead do little if any to improve performance.
> Marketing claims for these spacers say they reduce friction. I would think
> keeping the rocker tip to valve stem more consistant and would be a more
valid
> point for race engines. I have no way of proving or disproving any of this
> rambling!
>
> Dick