From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Feb 1 07:14:24 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 1 Feb 2009 09:14:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rockers or Rollers? In-Reply-To: <498470AE.7070008@optonline.net> References: <013120091204.25271.49843E48000D40E5000062B722230703729B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net> <498470AE.7070008@optonline.net> Message-ID: I have used Rocker Arm Specialist in the past also. I would use them again in a heartbeat. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail.:more than just e-mail. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t2_hm_justgotbetter_explore_ 012009 From rclark at robertsonclark.com Mon Feb 2 09:58:30 2009 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Mon, 2 Feb 2009 08:58:30 -0800 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] rubber vs. urethane vs others In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Thanks all for the input. I am leaning towards the urethane but will wait for the next sale from TRF. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From rsh17 at msn.com Wed Feb 4 08:33:33 2009 From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 09:33:33 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Richard Good's intake kit FS powder coated parts, offered here first Message-ID: I have for sale Richard Good's triple intake,Ram Air Induction System , it come w/ a K&N filter, and powder coated remote air cleaner kit and right side radiator shroud also powder coated. If purchased new from Good it would cost $398 plus shipping. Barely even used as I made an airbox which I liked more. Or you can have this one for $300 which includes shipping, not to mention the powder coated pieces. Shipping to USA only. Pay Via Paypal for $315.00 http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=3 http://s151.photobucket.com/albums/s146/ahobie17/Ebay/?action=view¤t=IM G_3151.jpg Richard Seaton RSH17 at msn.com _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com Wed Feb 4 12:00:46 2009 From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson) Date: Wed, 4 Feb 2009 14:00:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild Message-ID: List, I'm going to have a go at rebuilding my brake master cylinder and I'm soliciting advice from you before I order a repair kit from Moss/TRF. Are there any pitfalls I should avoid? Any special procedures required to disassemble it? Are the repair kits from one supplier any better than those from another? It seems like a fairly straight forward project once innards are removed........ Thanks for any help. Dave From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Feb 4 16:03:04 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 23:03:04 GMT Subject: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild Message-ID: Dave---As with most jobs of this kind, the first repair will seem more difficult. "Slipping" on the new piston seal will seem like trying to get cooked spaghetti up the proverbial wildcat's .... But it will go, using a liberal dose of brake fluid on both parts. (Strong thumbs required) You'll want to take a good look at the MC bore, to be sure it's free of pits and noticeable striations. The key to a sucessful rebuild could be the use of a two-stoned brake cylinder hone and a hand drill may be necessary to get this bore as shiney as new. Hand finish the bore with the finest grade of emery cloth you can get. I've used kits from both of these suppliers with reasonable success. Dick -----Original Message----- From: David B Johnson Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 11:00 AM To: '6-Pack' Subject: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild List, I'm going to have a go at rebuilding my brake master cylinder and I'm soliciting advice from you before I order a repair kit from Moss/TRF. Are there any pitfalls I should avoid? Any special procedures required to disassemble it? Are the repair kits from one supplier any better than those from another? It seems like a fairly straight forward project once innards are removed........ Thanks for any help. Dave 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From jimmble at roadrunner.com Wed Feb 4 17:52:58 2009 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (James Franks) Date: Wed, 04 Feb 2009 19:52:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <498A386A.7050800@roadrunner.com> Dick has good advice as usual. I would only add that in my experience, if it takes more than a couple of seconds with a hone to get a smooth finish, the bore may not be serviceable. Good luck, Jim Franks Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Dave---As with most jobs of this kind, the first repair will seem more difficult. "Slipping" on the new piston seal will seem like trying to get cooked spaghetti up the proverbial wildcat's .... But it will go, using a liberal dose of brake fluid on both parts. (Strong thumbs required) You'll want to take a good look at the MC bore, to be sure it's free of pits and noticeable striations. The key to a sucessful rebuild could be the use of a two-stoned brake cylinder hone and a hand drill may be necessary to get this bore as shiney as new. Hand finish the bore with the finest grade of emery cloth you can get. I've used kits from both of these suppliers with reasonable success. > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David B Johnson > Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 11:00 AM > To: '6-Pack' > Subject: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild > > List, > > I'm going to have a go at rebuilding my brake master cylinder and I'm > soliciting advice from you before I order a repair kit from Moss/TRF. Are > there any pitfalls > I should avoid? Any special procedures required to disassemble it? Are > the repair kits from one supplier any better than those from another? It > seems like a fairly straight forward project once innards are > removed........ Thanks for any help. > > Dave > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com Thu Feb 5 07:08:33 2009 From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 09:08:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Thanks Dick. I've received lots of good advice as expected. I think I'm primed and ready to go this weekend. I'll disassemble, inspect, hone and clean as necessary, unless it's beyond salvation. I haven't ordered the kit yet, but once I have it completed and tested I'll report back on my experience! Thanks to all who jumped in. Dave "Sally or Dick Taylor" David B Johnson/Burlington/IBM at IBMUS, 02/04/2009 06:03 "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> PM cc Subject Re: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild Dave---As with most jobs of this kind, the first repair will seem more difficult. "Slipping" on the new piston seal will seem like trying to get cooked spaghetti up the proverbial wildcat's .... But it will go, using a liberal dose of brake fluid on both parts. (Strong thumbs required) You'll want to take a good look at the MC bore, to be sure it's free of pits and noticeable striations. The key to a sucessful rebuild could be the use of a two-stoned brake cylinder hone and a hand drill may be necessary to get this bore as shiney as new. Hand finish the bore with the finest grade of emery cloth you can get. I've used kits from both of these suppliers with reasonable success. Dick -----Original Message----- From: David B Johnson Sent: Wednesday, February 4, 2009 11:00 AM To: '6-Pack' Subject: [6pack] Brake Master Rebuild List, I'm going to have a go at rebuilding my brake master cylinder and I'm soliciting advice from you before I order a repair kit from Moss/TRF. Are there any pitfalls I should avoid? Any special procedures required to disassemble it? Are the repair kits from one supplier any better than those from another? It seems like a fairly straight forward project once innards are removed........ Thanks for any help. Dave 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of graycol.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of pic11612.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ecblank.gif] From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Feb 5 11:42:06 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 10:42:06 -0800 Subject: [6pack] J-type overdrive kit Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DADB836@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Folks: Spotted this on eBay. If any of you are yearning for an OD, this is the best deal I have seen on a complete kit. $850 w/free shipping. This would cost you $500 more from Quantum. To be fair, John at Quantum does top notch work, and stands by his products. I also happen to know that John's ODs are FULLY rebuilt including a new clutch, which is often omitted during a typical "rebuild". Still, if these guys rebuild the clutch, or will give you the remaining friction material thickness so that you know the clutch is not worn out, then it is a screaming deal, and you will more than get your money back if/when you sell the car. This outfit occasionally offers this deal on eBay, so perhaps many of you are already familiar with this but I thought I would pass it along. eBay item number: 320338329367 Cheers, Vance 74 TR6 w/Overdrive From Pimento73 at aol.com Thu Feb 5 19:58:14 2009 From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 21:58:14 EST Subject: [6pack] J-type overdrive kit Message-ID: WARNING: this may be a reputable seller, but some selling overdrives from New Zealand are notorious for not shipping and dragging out the transaction until buyer has no recourse left. Do not be put off or accept delays if you are the winning bidder on an overdrive from New Zealand. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 2/5/2009 1:42:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: Spotted this on eBay. If any of you are yearning for an OD, this is the best deal I have seen on a complete kit. $850 w/free shipping. This would cost you $500 more from Quantum. **************Stay up to date on the latest news - from sports scores to stocks and so much more. (http://aol.com?ncid=emlcntaolcom00000022) From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Feb 6 08:12:03 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 6 Feb 2009 07:12:03 -0800 Subject: [6pack] J-type overdrive kit In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DADBCF3@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Folks: I have had a couple of people comment that either they or a buddy have had problems with OD suppliers in NZ. Sigh. I retract any mention of this as a "good deal". Best stick with John Esposito. Not that he has been trouble free, but he won't let you down and will make good any problem you encounter. A bad experience is always a risk on eBay. I have been burned only once, and that was to the tune of $20, so I am a bit more on the trusting side. As always, your mileage may vary. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast ________________________________ From: Pimento73 at aol.com [mailto:Pimento73 at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, February 05, 2009 6:58 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] J-type overdrive kit WARNING: this may be a reputable seller, but some selling overdrives from New Zealand are notorious for not shipping and dragging out the transaction until buyer has no recourse left. Do not be put off or accept delays if you are the winning bidder on an overdrive from New Zealand. Cheers, Jack Mc In a message dated 2/5/2009 1:42:45 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: Spotted this on eBay. If any of you are yearning for an OD, this is the best deal I have seen on a complete kit. $850 w/free shipping. This would cost you $500 more from Quantum. ________________________________ Stay up to date on the latest news - from sports scores to stocks and so much more. From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Feb 7 11:39:09 2009 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 11:39:09 -0700 Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: Rant on: Two and half weeks after my 1974 TR6 accident Allstate, the woman's insurance company, called to let me know I am being held 40% at fault because I was making a lane change, with my turn signal and headlights on, at the time she broadsided me. She was ticketed for failure to yield right of way, I did not receive any citations. Allstate does not claim my lane change was illegal, just that the lane change "contributed" to the accident and that maybe I was speeding. The right lane was blocked off by barricades but there were no workers at that side of the road and there was not any reduced speed signs or construction signs posted. I was traveling at under 40 MPH, posted speed limit is 45. I've now been driving down that road now 4 or 5 days a week to watch the speed limit signs and just this Wen they started working on that side of the road and they now have Road Construction and 25 MPH signs up. I told their claim handler that while I understood her statement that the lane change "contributed" to the accident she could also claim the fact that I was on that road at all at that point in time also "contributed" to the accident but that I didn't agree that that made me at all at fault. I said I guess that maybe I needed to contact a lawyer and she then said goodbye and hung up on me. Someone in our local Triumph club was nice enough to give me the name of a lawyer who owns a classic car and has been through all this before. Initially he declined to take the case because saying he doesn't want to do any personal injury cases but after I explained this was a 74 TR6 and I was not going after any personal injury money he agreed to take the case. I already like him. I have an appointment with him Monday morning. I thought I was being an OK guy by not pushing Allstate to act quickly. I did call twice during the two and half week process and I even emailed them a copy of the accident report that I had paid $5 for because they told me they didn't have a copy yet. When their adjuster visited the house he noticed some damage to my rear bumper, me trying to be a stand up guy, told him that that had been there before the accident, which he made sure to document. Their initial estimate to fix is a little over $3,000 to fix the passenger door and replace the rear fender, fix the suspension and paint. I know I could go to Hagerty and get the car fixed now and let them hammer something out between them but now my stubbornness has kicked in and I'm not going to he held responsible at all. I don't want them to accept a deal just because it's easier and faster to settle. Rant off: If I can figure out my Triumph Owners user name, I'll post some pics. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Sat Feb 7 11:48:59 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 13:48:59 EST Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: Marty, this is just insurance companies being insurance companies and trying to see what they can push you into. I stand by my original suggestion, call Hagerty and let them handle it. Believe me, Hagerty doesn't want to pay any money they don't absolutely have to and they won't BUT Allstate will know immediately they can't push them around or try to pull their usual crap with them so they won't even try. Besides, my guess is that when they get in there for repairs they are going to find much more than the Allstate Adjuster even understands. Then you will have another battle on your hands. It is just not worth the aggravation. Let the insurance companies duke it out. That is what you pay Hagerty for. No need to pay an attorney too! Just my 2 cents from someone that has been down this road. Cheers and keep you chin up and don't give them an inch!! Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?ncid=emlcntusmusi00000003) From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sat Feb 7 13:43:10 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 12:43:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR 6 Accident Message-ID: <122488.80478.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Marty, I'm with Gary Fuqua. You shouldn't have to deal with Allstate at all, that's why you have insurance. Let them hash it out and be sure Allstate pays for the complete repair. You would think they would be glad your neck isn't hurting or that you don't have a personal injury lawyer after them. What's the use paying insurance premiums if you don't use them when you need them. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 From DLylis at aol.com Sat Feb 7 15:42:45 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 17:42:45 EST Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: I am sorry that Allstate is making this more painful. In Florida, Allstate is a dirty word. Google Allstate Homeowners Insurance Florida. You're in good hands with Allstate. Unfortunately, one of them is ___________________(fill in the blank). David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com Sat Feb 7 19:31:52 2009 From: dwaldorf at cinci.rr.com (Dave Waldorf) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 21:31:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Message-ID: <524AC26485D948D7BA2F02411080F4BE@rudy> What Gary is talking about by letting Hagerty handle the cliam is known in insurance circles as subrogation. My wife handles high level workers compensation insurance claims currently, but worked her way there through several steps including as an auto claims analyst. We (she) has NEVER handled one of our insurance claims personally. EVERY claim we've had in 25 years of marriage has been handled though our insurance, and subrogated by them on to the person at fault. In no case did it effect our premium or standing/policy. Also in no case did the person at fault's insurance company get away with baloney like legal lane changes being a "contributing factor". If she wouldn't negotiate with an insurance company, I can't imagine anyone would do themselves well by trying. This is part of what you pay an insurance company for. --Dave Waldorf From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Feb 7 19:44:12 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 07 Feb 2009 21:44:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <8CB57ADB132FC34-1768-354F@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB57ADB132FC34-1768-354F@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CB57AE42126E0C-1768-356B@WEBMAIL-DY32.sysops.aol.com> Hi Marty, I thought I would add to the avalanche of advice to let your insurance handle it.? I was hit lightly while driving our 87 Celica 10 or so years ago but was on my own since I had removed collision insurance from the car due to its age and condition.? I was just driving down the street when an older lady just pulled out and creased the entire side of the car.? I fought with the ladies insurance company for three weeks, jumping through all kinds of hoops to try to get them to pay.? Finally I just called my insurance company for some basic advice regarding the best way to proceed since I wasnt familiar with the whole insurance game and my insurance agent was kind enough to offer to call the other insurance agent on my behalf, even though she didnt have to.? I had a check in hand less than 48 hours later, no more grief and no more contact from the other insurance company. Let us know how everything turns out. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Marty To: Triumph Email List ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 1:39 pm Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks Rant on: From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Feb 7 22:40:35 2009 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty) Date: Sat, 7 Feb 2009 22:40:35 -0700 Subject: [6pack] My TR6 Accident Continuing Saga Now at 2.5 Weeks In-Reply-To: <524AC26485D948D7BA2F02411080F4BE@rudy> References: <524AC26485D948D7BA2F02411080F4BE@rudy> Message-ID: Thanks Gary, that is the advice most people are giving me off list as well. Marty On Sat, Feb 7, 2009 at 7:31 PM, Dave Waldorf wrote: > What Gary is talking about by letting Hagerty handle the cliam is known in > insurance circles as subrogation. My wife handles high level workers > compensation insurance claims currently, but worked her way there through > several steps including as an auto claims analyst. > > We (she) has NEVER handled one of our insurance claims personally. EVERY > claim we've had in 25 years of marriage has been handled though our > insurance, > and subrogated by them on to the person at fault. In no case did it effect > our premium or standing/policy. Also in no case did the person at fault's > insurance company get away with baloney like legal lane changes being a > "contributing factor". If she wouldn't negotiate with an insurance > company, I > can't imagine anyone would do themselves well by trying. > > This is part of what you pay an insurance company for. > > --Dave Waldorf From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Feb 8 12:53:25 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 19:53:25 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans-America - Latest news from the UK Message-ID: <793F136154FC45EC91376105FCDD84E8@Bevan> Hi, Everyone This is just to let you all know there have been recent updates to the event website at www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk that hopefully a goodly number of you will find interesting? To start with, 'Stagmeister' Joe Pawlak and his loyal band of smashed knucklers at Illinois Sports Owners Association have made real progress with the car. The front and rear suspension is in place, the body is fully painted and the engine rebuild is well underway. If you haven't seen the website recently, there are some new pix so you can see what's going on. Additionally, I'm now delighted to be able to confirm the route details, dates and venues (where known and confirmed) are now on the website as well. Click on the route on the site sidebar and apart from the latest map, you'll be able to see where "uncle jack" and I will be at any time or date. There are still a number of things to firm up regarding events but the bare bones are now in place. We had a major disappointment a few weeks ago when the US charity we'd hoped to work with, decided for reasons we're still not too sure about - to withdraw from the TTACD. The search is now on to identify and recruit a fully accredited and registered US 501c3 non-profit to work with us. Hopefully, we'll be able to reveal all when that sanction is gained. >From now onwards, the next stages of the event are to identify which clubs close to the route want to join in on the Drive itself. Who wants to join a caravan and who doesn't - where each caravan will start and finish etc etc. I'll also soon be opening the doors for 'caravanners' to book their rallyboard or a seat in "uncle jack" as he makes his noble (and noisy) progress across Canada and the U.S. Four months to go now = and counting Jonmac From DLylis at aol.com Sun Feb 8 16:01:31 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 18:01:31 EST Subject: [6pack] TR6 Trunnions Message-ID: I finally decided to pay attention to the front suspension on my TR6. The car has always driven very well but had too much negative camber in the front wheels. I took all the shims out a couple or three years ago and it improved, but not exactly right. I have taken the suspension apart and have found what I consider to be excess play between the vertical link and the trunnion. I am cleaning everything up and rebushing but would like the lists opinion on the fit. If I pin the lower A arms to the floor with my foot (upper A arms removed) so the vertical link is, well . . .vertical, I can wiggle the vertical link at the ball joint about 1/4" back and forth which would translate to camber at the wheel. All of the play I am talking about is between the link and the trunnion. I cannot turn the trunnion down any more. This is my question. Since the link is steel and the trunnion is brass, will replacing just the trunnion correct this? What can I expect for play with new trunnions? TIA David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From DLylis at aol.com Sun Feb 8 16:09:05 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 18:09:05 EST Subject: [6pack] TR6 Trunnions Message-ID: In a message dated 2/8/2009 6:02:46 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, DLylis at aol.com writes: This is my question. Since the link is steel and the trunnion is brass, I meant Bronze, of course. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From gtwincams at gmail.com Sun Feb 8 16:56:59 2009 From: gtwincams at gmail.com (Greg Tatarian) Date: Sun, 08 Feb 2009 15:56:59 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Trunnions In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <498F714B.40508@gmail.com> David, Sounds to me like your trunnions are worn where they thread onto the vertical links. It is my experience, and my understanding from talking to friends in the Brit car resto business, that these should not be loose as you are describing, but snug with little to no perceptible play (they should rotate easily however). It is also my experience that if the trunnions have not been oiled for many miles of use the threads on the vertical link will get worn, sometimes significantly. I've seen them so bad that new trunnions would wobble on the links. The threads will also rust, reducing their diameter further. You should inspect the threaded part of the link for any "necking" or wear, and see how a new set of trunnions fit to determine weather replacements are needed. I have found that replacement trunnions from overseas that are sold by the various catalog suppliers vary greatly in quality and consistency. I bought a set from VB last year that were machined so poorly at the inside threads that one would simply not screw completely onto the upright! The other was almost as tight, and being concerned about galling, I refused to use them and returned them for credit, not wanting to get another set from the same manufacturer. I ended up using some gently used older trunnions from my stockpile of parts that fit snugly, and rotate smoothly. Cheers, Greg Tatarian 1974 TR6 1971 Lotus Elan 1974 Alfa Romeo GTV From DLylis at aol.com Sun Feb 8 17:32:59 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 19:32:59 EST Subject: [6pack] TR6 Trunnions Message-ID: Thanks. The Trunnions have been well lubricated while in my possession and the Vertical links do not appear to be excesively worn. That remains to be seen, of course, when fitted to new trunnions. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Feb 8 19:48:35 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 21:48:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] parts Message-ID: I have posted a few TR4 & TR6 parts on ebay if anyone has an interest. Thanks for looking, Al http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ssPageName=STRK:MESE LX:IT&item=180327073318 From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Sun Feb 8 21:16:33 2009 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito) Date: Sun, 8 Feb 2009 23:16:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Trunnions References: Message-ID: <001501c98a6d$325ca310$6101a8c0@phoenix> David, You were right the first time - the trunnions are brass. Being a softer material than the steel vertical links they will wear before the threads on the vertical links. However, the threads on the vertical links can corrode pretty badly. So as long as the vertical link threads appear relatively intact new trunnions should make things pretty snug again. And use new trunnion seals - very inexpensive insurance and should always be replaced when replacing the trunnions. While you have them apart you might as well also check for bent vertical links - they can occur from an accident long ago and go undetected. It is absolutely critical to use the proper lubricant for the trunnions, that being oil. Not grease! Grease will eventually solidify and bind up the trunnions, making the steering effort very difficult. Good luck! Greg Dito CD6250L Chapel Hill, NC ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 6:01 PM Subject: [6pack] TR6 Trunnions > .....This is my question. Since the link is steel and the trunnion is > brass, > will replacing just the trunnion correct this? What can I expect for > play with > new trunnions? From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Mon Feb 9 10:25:50 2009 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 12:25:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0500C@uscancisnt05.instron.com> Several years ago, to address grinding when shifting from 1-2 then a little from 2-3, I had my TR6 transmission rebuild by a place down in RI. Upon disassembly, the garage said all looks good except for the syncros. They didn't have good sourcing connections so I volunteered to supply these and did. I believe I got them from BPNW. Transmission arrive and I installed and situation was much improved although not perfect and I falsely thought the unit would just take some time to wear in. Well, in fact, it has gotten much worse. Now it is difficult to produce a smooth shift and down shifting is even worse. The transmission is now out, cleaned and drained and I'm contemplating my options. Just called RTF and was quoted approx $1500. This would include all new seals, bearings, gaskets and syncros and a 12 month guarantee. Wow, a far cry from the $450 I paid the first time around (yes, I know it didn't work the first time). I've read the manual of rebuild instructions and not sure I'm ready for that. Looking for options or suggestions from the group. Thanks for the help. Darcy Hunter "73 TR6 North Easton, MA From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Feb 9 10:58:09 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 12:58:09 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0500C@uscancisnt05.instron.com> References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0500C@uscancisnt05.instron.com> Message-ID: Hi, Not to rub salt in the wound, but with a $450 rebuild, you get $450 worth of work. To do a tranny properly, you need access to some special tools. Without using those tools, you cannot set the clearances properly and your "rebuild" won't last. That's the first issue. Second and not to blast any particular vendor out there, the "quality" of the synchros out there is all over the place. I know some rebuilders that insist on re-facing old OEM synchros instead of replacing with new. The quality of the bearings is also a factor, as tolerances can stack up against you. So you want to know what's going in the box. Yet another contributor is the type of fluid you put in the gearbox (as has been mentioned many times over on this list and others. So, when you look at the parts costs and then add in the necessary labor to build a gearbox, the prices add up pretty quickly. I won't comment on the $1500 thing, because what matters is what you get for your $$$ not the actual price. As for the grinding... sometimes we guess that transmissions that shoft poorly are doign so because of the synchros. But the synchros are only part of the equation. I'd verify proper clutch operation first, then make sure I'm using the right lube in the 'box and then "go from there. If the clutch is fine and proper lube was used, I'd be looking at a broken top-hat bush or something that's made the "clearances" in the box go off (like worn thrust washers or too much initial end-float). Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Feb 9 11:35:33 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 18:35:33 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0500C@uscancisnt05.instron.com> References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0500C@uscancisnt05.instron.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FE4DF08A@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Darcy, give John Esposito a call and see what he quotes for a rebuild. The advantage is that he is within driving distance for drop off and pick up and he does a lot of rebuilds. He has rebuilt my tranny, fitted OD and rebuilt the diff over the last few years. He wont be cheap either but he does good work. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hunter, Darcy Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 12:26 PM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Several years ago, to address grinding when shifting from 1-2 then a little from 2-3, I had my TR6 transmission rebuild by a place down in RI. Upon disassembly, the garage said all looks good except for the syncros. They didn't have good sourcing connections so I volunteered to supply these and did. I believe I got them from BPNW. Transmission arrive and I installed and situation was much improved although not perfect and I falsely thought the unit would just take some time to wear in. Well, in fact, it has gotten much worse. Now it is difficult to produce a smooth shift and down shifting is even worse. The transmission is now out, cleaned and drained and I'm contemplating my options. Just called RTF and was quoted approx $1500. This would include all new seals, bearings, gaskets and syncros and a 12 month guarantee. Wow, a far cry from the $450 I paid the first time around (yes, I know it didn't work the first time). I've read the manual of rebuild instructions and not sure I'm ready for that. Looking for options or suggestions from the group. Thanks for the help. Darcy Hunter "73 TR6 North Easton, MA _______________________________________________ From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Feb 9 14:27:58 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 13:27:58 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Transmission problem Message-ID: <254739.26338.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com> If the transmission Darcy is talking about rebuilding is not an overdrive type you can probably get a good used one for a lot less than a major rebuild from someone on this list who has converted to a Toyota 5 speed. For that matter you may want to consider converting to a Toyota 5 speed instead of spending big bucks for a transmission rebuild. Just my 2 cents worth. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR 6 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Feb 9 16:31:20 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 18:31:20 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: Darcy, IMHO absolutely eliminate the clutch as the culprit before having this tranny rebuilt again. How is it going into reverse? Do you get any gear interaction when shifting into reverse? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From jimmble at roadrunner.com Tue Feb 10 05:46:01 2009 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (jimmble at roadrunner.com) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 7:46:01 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild In-Reply-To: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0500C@uscancisnt05.instron.com> Message-ID: <20090210124601.RLII5.75125.root@cdptpa-web19-z02> It sounds as though you may have worn synchro hubs, which won't be cured by replacing just the bronze rings. It will take a knowledgeable shop to identify and replace the necessary bits, not just the 'usual wear items'. Jim Franks ---- "Hunter wrote: > Several years ago, to address grinding when shifting from 1-2 then a little from 2-3, I had my TR6 transmission rebuild by a place down in RI. Upon disassembly, the garage said all looks good except for the syncros. They didn't have good sourcing connections so I volunteered to supply these and > did. I believe I got them from BPNW. Transmission arrive and I installed and situation was much improved although not perfect and I falsely thought the unit would just take some time to wear in. Well, in fact, it has gotten much worse. Now it is difficult to produce a smooth shift and down > shifting is even worse. The transmission is now out, cleaned and drained and I'm contemplating my options. Just called RTF and was quoted approx $1500. This would include all new seals, bearings, gaskets and syncros and a 12 month guarantee. Wow, a far cry from the $450 I paid the first time > around (yes, I know it didn't work the first time). I've read the manual of rebuild instructions and not sure I'm ready for that. Looking for options or suggestions from the group. Thanks for the help. > > > > Darcy Hunter > > "73 TR6 > > North Easton, MA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com -- Jim Franks Too many projects, too little time. No good deed goes unpunished. From DLylis at aol.com Tue Feb 10 08:55:05 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 10:55:05 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: IMO worn out synchro hubs is a last resort issue. I think if it had gone this far this tranny would be popping out of gear, etc. It is pretty easy to tell if that is the case. If the synchros have acceptable tolerances, and you can measure without disassembly (except for the cover, of course), they should be doing their job. If new synchros were put in and they are of questionable quality, the worn bronze should show up in the oil since it is not filtered. (OD, no OD?). Darcy got these from BPNW and I find them to be very good. Again, I would make absolutely certain that the clutch is not a contributor before going to a next step, which may include repalcing the tranny with a known good one. (If no OD, of course) Just my two Euros worth David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Tue Feb 10 11:19:48 2009 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 13:19:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0502A@uscancisnt05.instron.com> Thanks for the input. Several have suggested that I make sure I am confident the clutch is working properly. Of course, the transmission is out and putting it back in is no easy matter. Not impossible, just more work. The clutch disc and plate were all new when the transmission and engine were redone. Darcy -----Original Message----- From: Michael Porter [mailto:mdporter at dfn.com] Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 5:33 PM To: Hunter, Darcy Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Hunter, Darcy wrote: > Several years ago, to address grinding when shifting from 1-2 then a little from 2-3, I had my TR6 transmission rebuild by a place down in RI. Upon disassembly, the garage said all looks good except for the syncros. They didn't have good sourcing connections so I volunteered to supply these and > did. I believe I got them from BPNW. Transmission arrive and I installed and situation was much improved although not perfect and I falsely thought the unit would just take some time to wear in. Well, in fact, it has gotten much worse. No one's mentioned this, but, have you thoroughly checked the clutch engagement? It's the first thing to check, rather than the last, when there's a problem shifting. BTW, since you're from N. Easton, ever run into a guy by the name of Kevin Lawton. Used to be the librarian at the public library in N. Easton. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Tue Feb 10 11:29:47 2009 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 13:29:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0502C@uscancisnt05.instron.com> Got lots of good advice mostly suggesting looking at the clutch. My plan is to check out the suggestion from Gary this weekend and see if there are obvious issues. I have an extra transmission with it's own problems so I can compare the shift forks as well as checking tolerances as suggested in the workshop manual. After that, need to consider removing the clutch and look for problems then reassembling making sure the clutch is working cleanly and go for a test drive. I suppose not every bell housing bolt is required to make this check. Thanks Darcy '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA _____ From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com [mailto:GSFuqua1 at aol.com] Sent: Monday, February 09, 2009 12:33 PM To: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Darcy, check the shift forks (These are brass and look like two large fingers) that are inside the top cover of the transmission. Are they worn or bent? These are easy to check as all you have to do is unbolt the top cover. Could be out of adjustment if they are loose. This will affect shifting and not be associated with gears. Otherwise you better figure on some gears and new synchros. I would send it to John Esposito @ Quantum Mechanics by the way if you aren't going to do it yourself. John is a Pro that Gear Boxes are his specialty. Cheers, Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO _____ Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. From DLylis at aol.com Tue Feb 10 16:53:21 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 18:53:21 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: In a message dated 2/10/2009 1:29:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com writes: I suppose not every bell housing bolt is required to make this check. Thanks That is not something I would advise, but that is me. I do not think that if it is the clutch that is the issue, that it is the part that is bolted to the flywheel. I would think that it is in the fork, TOB area, or hydraulics. How was shifting into reverse before you took it out? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Wed Feb 11 03:29:20 2009 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 05:29:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C05031@uscancisnt05.instron.com> I had several questions on shifting into reverse for my transmission and the answer is that this seemed OK. No grinding or difficulty that I noted. Does this mean clutch is good since there are no syncros involved? Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA _____ From: DLylis at aol.com [mailto:DLylis at aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 10, 2009 6:53 PM To: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission rebuild In a message dated 2/10/2009 1:29:14 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com writes: I suppose not every bell housing bolt is required to make this check. Thanks That is not something I would advise, but that is me. I do not think that if it is the clutch that is the issue, that it is the part that is bolted to the flywheel. I would think that it is in the fork, TOB area, or hydraulics. How was shifting into reverse before you took it out? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO _____ Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. From DLylis at aol.com Wed Feb 11 06:18:01 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 08:18:01 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission rebuild Message-ID: In a message dated 2/11/2009 5:28:42 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com writes: I had several questions on shifting into reverse for my transmission and the answer is that this seemed OK. No grinding or difficulty that I noted. Does this mean clutch is good since there are no syncros involved? Darcy Hunter Yes. I would say that it reduces the chances greatly that it is related to the clutch. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000001) From sakirsis at consolidated.net Wed Feb 11 07:35:01 2009 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 08:35:01 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Pressure Plate Message-ID: <85C2BD5A29BE450EB19547A50D898D60@stevekirsisPC> Hi gang, I'm in the process of switching my Pimento '75 to a J type overdrive. Yesterday I removed the non OD transmission and am trying to decide if it would be worth replacing the pressure and drive plate on the clutch ( the removed non OD transmission was working perfectly with very smooth action). I am going to use the Gunst throw out system as I installed it in my '70 Damson conversion and love it. Gunst does not recommend use with a Borg and Beck pressure plate. Since I did not install the original tranny, how can I tell if I now have a B&B? The plate looks new with no wear from the removed RHP bearing. I am assuming the drive plate is also in good shape. Should I spend the extra bucks on the LUK set-up as I do-not want to redue this job. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Feb 11 12:37:22 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 19:37:22 GMT Subject: [6pack] Clutch Pressure Plate Message-ID: Steve---The Borg&Beck pressure plate might have the letters "AP" stamped on it. Or maybe a Blue dot of paint. As I have said in past posts, I had no problems using the B&B plate and disc with the Gunst bearing. (No "whistle" from the cranked fingers, as Mr. Gunst feared). The disc plate lining is around .060 thick when new. If it is less than half of this, when measured down to the rivets, then it would be prudent to replace it at this time. They're relatively cheap. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Steve Kirsis Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 6:35 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Clutch Pressure Plate Hi gang, I'm in the process of switching my Pimento '75 to a J type overdrive. Yesterday I removed the non OD transmission and am trying to decide if it would be worth replacing the pressure and drive plate on the clutch ( the removed non OD transmission was working perfectly with very smooth action). I am going to use the Gunst throw out system as I installed it in my '70 Damson conversion and love it. Gunst does not recommend use with a Borg and Beck pressure plate. Since I did not install the original tranny, how can I tell if I now have a B&B? The plate looks new with no wear from the removed RHP bearing. I am assuming the drive plate is also in good shape. Should I spend the extra bucks on the LUK set-up as I do-not want to redue this job. Any suggestions? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Feb 11 13:39:37 2009 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 14:39:37 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking Message-ID: Fellow Listers: I finally got around to taking my '74 TR6 to a well respected Triumph expert. Upon a very thorough examination the differential mounting brackets and hubs appear to be in good shape. The u-joints were failing and have been replaced with Hardy-Spicer's. Also replaced the T/A bushings and making sure the excessive negative camber is corrected. It should be ready to go this Saturday! I've only been without the car for about two weeks now and I sure miss having it in my garage. I'll be much happier now knowing those problems are solved. What? This Saturday is Valentine's Day? Uh-Oh! Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Wed Feb 11 13:46:31 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:46:31 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking In-Reply-To: Message-ID: So-- take her for a nice romantic ride in the country, stop for dinner and the night at some little country inn- you WILL get lucky! Kevin L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Wednesday, February 11, 2009 1:40 PM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking Fellow Listers: I finally got around to taking my '74 TR6 to a well respected Triumph expert. Upon a very thorough examination the differential mounting brackets and hubs appear to be in good shape. The u-joints were failing and have been replaced with Hardy-Spicer's. Also replaced the T/A bushings and making sure the excessive negative camber is corrected. It should be ready to go this Saturday! I've only been without the car for about two weeks now and I sure miss having it in my garage. I'll be much happier now knowing those problems are solved. What? This Saturday is Valentine's Day? Uh-Oh! Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Feb 11 14:04:44 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 21:04:44 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Heck, Might as well take the wife along too... :o) Sloane :) '69-Six> From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu> To: stuartt at tlthompson.com; 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:46:31 -0700> Subject: Re: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking> > So-- take her for a nice romantic ride in the country, stop for dinner and> the night at some little country inn- you WILL get lucky!> > Kevin> > > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From peterschop at aol.com Thu Feb 12 11:54:03 2009 From: peterschop at aol.com (peterschop at aol.com) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:54:03 -0500 Subject: [6pack] looking for Marc Goldblatt Message-ID: <8CB5B5A6877E46C-12AC-11C5@WEBMAIL-MC15.sysops.aol.com> I ordered? a sealing block for my six from Marc Goldblatt's web site early last week. I tried to contact him through the email address on his web site but have not received a?reply yet. I'm at a stand still on my project until I can put the sealing block in the engine. Does anyone know how to contact him, maybe a different email address or a phone number? The address I have is goldblma at optonline.net. Thanks, Peter Schoppelry From stuartt at tlthompson.com Thu Feb 12 12:11:57 2009 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 13:11:57 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking References: Message-ID: I guess I'll have to make room. I nice romantic ride in the country...all three of us. Otherwise I might experience some intermittent cracking up side the head. > Heck, Might as well take the wife along too... :o) > > Sloane :) > '69-Six> From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu> To: stuartt at tlthompson.com; > 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:46:31 -0700> Subject: Re: > [6pack] Intermittent Cracking> > So-- take her for a nice romantic ride in > the > country, stop for dinner and> the night at some little country inn- you > WILL > get lucky!> > Kevin> > > From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Feb 12 12:35:44 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 14:35:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] looking for Marc Goldblatt In-Reply-To: <8CB5B5A6877E46C-12AC-11C5@WEBMAIL-MC15.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB5B5A6877E46C-12AC-11C5@WEBMAIL-MC15.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Peter, Here's his main company information (http://www.imaconstruction.com/) with a phone number. When I ordered mine back in the fall he was very responsive and told me that it would be a few weeks as he had to do a new production run. He even offered to credit my Paypal if I didn't want to wait. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of peterschop at aol.com Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 1:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] looking for Marc Goldblatt I ordered? a sealing block for my six from Marc Goldblatt's web site early last week. I tried to contact him through the email address on his web site but have not received a?reply yet. I'm at a stand still on my project until I can put the sealing block in the engine. Does anyone know how to contact him, maybe a different email address or a phone number? The address I have is goldblma at optonline.net. Thanks, Peter Schoppelry 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Thu Feb 12 15:35:56 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 15:35:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004d01c98d62$46eabc70$d4c03550$@edu> Yep. Like he old toast goes: "Here's to wives and girlfriends-- May they never meet." Kevin K5KMC -----Original Message----- From: Stuart Thompson [mailto:stuartt at tlthompson.com] Sent: Thursday, February 12, 2009 12:12 PM To: im sloane; 6pack at autox.team.net Cc: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Subject: Re: [6pack] Intermittent Cracking I guess I'll have to make room. I nice romantic ride in the country...all three of us. Otherwise I might experience some intermittent cracking up side the head. > Heck, Might as well take the wife along too... :o) > > Sloane :) > '69-Six> From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu> To: stuartt at tlthompson.com; > 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Wed, 11 Feb 2009 13:46:31 -0700> Subject: Re: > [6pack] Intermittent Cracking> > So-- take her for a nice romantic ride in > the > country, stop for dinner and> the night at some little country inn- you > WILL > get lucky!> > Kevin> > > From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Thu Feb 12 22:40:38 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Thu, 12 Feb 2009 21:40:38 -0800 Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Milestone Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C5CD@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> This evening I reached a milestone. A year ago, I pulled my 4 speed gearbox to add a J-Type overdrive. I had high hopes of completing it by summer. Well summer plus a few more months have come and gone. But tonight I mated the gearbox/OD to the engine. I've never had a gearbox open in my life, so this is a real first for me. I followed Nelson Riedel's documentation, and with a few variances it was pretty much a textbook procedure. I know the bigger test is yet to come. As importantly, I can't help but think of the great group of people connected to the 6Pack. I had so much information available to me from current and past discussions, but I didn't always use it prudently. If the 6Pack had an annual recognition, I might very well have been nominated for a Darwin award for some of the stupid mistakes I made along the way. But if we passed out a Lucas Luminary award, it would have to go to Berry Price. This man not only mentored me in the tear down and rebuild of the gearbox and OD, he was always there to provide words of encouragement, listened to my whining, laugh with me at my mistakes, laugh at me when I complained about my mistakes and even went so far as to fabricate all the tools in his shop that I needed to get the job done. What do you say about a guy like this? Words won't express my gratitude. Maybe a beer is in order. A big thanks also go out to Vance. He provided some needed information along the way, and took the time to provide very detailed explanations. Between him and Berry, I was able to get the gearbox mounted by myself, and I'm neither a big man or a young one. Enough of myself. Now where's that glass of wine. Mike Corvallis, OR 1969 TR6, OD From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Thu Feb 12 23:00:57 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 01:00:57 EST Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Milestone Message-ID: Congratulations Michael. There is little that is as satisfying as tackling something we aren't quite sure we can do and then pulling it off. Good on you!! AND 6-Pack. It is one of the best organizations (Or should I say families) to belong to. Cheers Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From Btp44 at aol.com Fri Feb 13 13:51:58 2009 From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 15:51:58 EST Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Milestone Message-ID: Mike-Thanks for the accolades, many hours of entertainment, and friendship, although I think your are tempting fate by celebrating before the car is on the road. Lucas Luminary award? You just called me a dim flickering bulb. I resemble that remark. Berry **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Feb 13 16:54:21 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 18:54:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> I seem to recall that you shouldn't use an opened container of brake fluif because there may be water in it from condensation. The bottle I have was first opened about a year ago. Fact or old wife's tale? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Feb 13 17:09:12 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:09:12 EST Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 6:54:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: Fact or old wife's tale? Not sure about that Bob, But a related subject on silicone type brake fluif that comes to mind for me is that I am in the habit of shaking that bottle of fluif just to get it mixed up good. I can't help myself, just seems like a natural thing to do as soon as the bottle reaches my hand. Then when I pour that fluif , I see these tiny little bubbles all over within the fluif, is that a bad thing? Darrell **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Feb 13 17:13:42 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 00:13:42 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> References: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8EC7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> It probably depends on the storage conditions, ambient humidity etc but the type of fluif that is hygroscopic is so cheap, why take the risk ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 6:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif I seem to recall that you shouldn't use an opened container of brake fluif because there may be water in it from condensation. The bottle I have was first opened about a year ago. Fact or old wife's tale? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ From trsix74 at comcast.net Fri Feb 13 17:56:45 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 19:56:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <462CB5D3A6CA4293B0C521EE381E1A03@Robert> Then when I pour that fluif , I see these Snip: tiny little bubbles all over within the fluif, is that a bad thing? In my opinion yes. Reason, you are adding air to the fluid. (Haven't any high test beverage yet, I can still say it properly.) When you bleed the brakes you are adding air into the lines, unless your just topping up and then, it's not an issue as the air will slowly rise and you always have an air pocket at the top of the reservoir. From TR250Driver at aol.com Fri Feb 13 18:43:07 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Fri, 13 Feb 2009 20:43:07 EST Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif Message-ID: In a message dated 2/13/2009 7:52:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: In my opinion yes. Reason, you are adding air to the fluid. (Haven't any high test beverage yet, I can still say it properly.) Just to put any debate to rest, yes I agree, it is a bad thing to shake that bottle of silicone brake fluif, and to tell the truth High Test Crown Royal Manhattans are now in effect. The point is, no matter what, once that bottle crosses the palms of one's hand, it just seems natural the shake it up, see how much is left, then go on to pour. Oh shoot, now I have to wait till those bubbles settle. Darrell **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) From 75teer6 at gmail.com Sat Feb 14 08:24:24 2009 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Sat, 14 Feb 2009 08:24:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83dfea6b0902140724i4c781b36l7177f2a57a4f6119@mail.gmail.com> Darrell, Surely you are not thinking of adding air bubbles to Crown Royal ?! Henri 75 TR6 On Fri, Feb 13, 2009 at 6:43 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 2/13/2009 7:52:51 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > trsix74 at comcast.net writes: > > In my opinion yes. > Reason, you are adding air to the fluid. > (Haven't any high test beverage yet, I can still say it properly.) > > > > > Just to put any debate to rest, yes I agree, it is a bad thing to shake that > bottle of silicone brake fluif, and to tell the truth High Test Crown Royal > Manhattans are now in effect. The point is, no matter what, once that bottle > crosses the palms of one's hand, it just seems natural the shake it up, see > how much is left, then go on to pour. Oh shoot, now I have to wait till those > bubbles settle. > Darrell > **************Nothing says I love you like flowers! Find a florist near you > now. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=florist&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000002) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Sun Feb 15 23:36:19 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Sun, 15 Feb 2009 22:36:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Measurement Needed Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C5EB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Now that I have my gearbox/OD attached to the engine backing plate, I need to determine the height of the rubber bushings that fit between the OD and the adapter plate that bolts to the original side mounts. I'm following Jeff Brzozoski's design shown in Nelson Riedel's article, "Adapting J Type Overdrives to TR250 & Early TR6 Frames". Nelson's article is easy to follow but it does not provide any dimension on the height of the rubber bushings that are sandwiched between the horizontal adapter plate and the OD. Do any of you, who have installed a J-Type overdrive in your early TR6, know how much distance should be between the OD and the adapter plate? Basically, I need to know the vertical distance between the TR's original side mounts and the bottom of the OD (where it bolts into my adapter). If I knew this, I could determine the height of the bushings by adjusting for the thickness of my adapter assembly. Is the angle at which the gearbox sits between the engine and propeller shaft not fairly important? I wish I would have had the foresight to take some measurements before I pulled my gearbox last year. Mike Corvallis, OR From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 16 01:57:46 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 00:57:46 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear Message-ID: <203323.43171.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey List, I have a sporadic clunk in the rear end of my TR6 somewhere. I inspected the diff mounts and they don't look cracked anywhere. The stock shocks appear to mounted solidly. The wheels don't wiggle back and forth at all side to side so the hubs are at least in reasonable shape. I jacked up the rear and put the ebrake on and tried loading the drive train up a little bit in forward and reverse and couldn't reproduce the clunk. I am most likely to get the clunk when turning while pulling away from a stop. This makes me think that it is possibly the splines on the half shafts binding up. How should those be lubricated? Any other ideas for clunkiness in the rear? Possibly internal to the differential? Kendall San Clemente, CA From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 16 03:37:15 2009 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 02:37:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels Message-ID: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi List, I need some new tires, as mine have gotten "old" before the "wore out". I am toying with the idea of getting some new wheels that are actually round. What options are out there? Panasport ($$$?) Konig copies? Did you get any great deal lately? Anybody have a used set they want to sell? My car is french blue and thinking about the silver look or gunmetal. Open to all suggestions! Thanks, Kendall San Clemente, CA From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Feb 16 05:09:59 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 07:09:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear In-Reply-To: <203323.43171.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <203323.43171.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CB5E469FA3AE3F-1204-C16@WEBMAIL-MY11.sysops.aol.com> Kendall, If you havent done it yet, put up the top, close the windows and try to duplicate the sound again.? Without as much road noise it is sometimes possible to hear the noise more distinctly. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Kendall Larsen To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 3:57 am Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear Hey List, I have a sporadic clunk in the rear end of my TR6 somewhere. I inspected the diff mounts and they don't look cracked anywhere. The stock shocks appear to mounted solidly. The wheels don't wiggle back and forth at all side to side so the hubs are at least in reasonable shape. I jacked up the rear and put the ebrake on and tried loading the drive train up a little bit in forward and reverse and couldn't reproduce the clunk. I am most likely to get the clunk when turning while pulling away from a stop. This makes me think that it is possibly the splines on the half shafts binding up. How should those be lubricated? Any other ideas for clunkiness in the rear? Possibly internal to the differential? Kendall San Clemente, CA From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Feb 16 05:13:05 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 07:13:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8CB5E470EBED5C9-1204-C32@WEBMAIL-MY11.sysops.aol.com> Kendall, Check out the triumphowners.com/108 web site.? I have placed a bunch of different pictures of wheels and where possible those different wheels on a TR6 to show people what each style looks like.? Another lister has done something similar on triumphowners.com but I cant recall exactly who it was and have no time to check it out right now. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Kendall Larsen To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 5:37 am Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels Hi List, I need some new tires, as mine have gotten "old" before the "wore out". I am toying with the idea of getting some new wheels that are actually round. What options are out there? Panasport ($$$?) Konig copies? Did you get any great deal lately? Anybody have a used set they want to sell? My car is french blue and thinking about the silver look or gunmetal. Open to all suggestions! Thanks, Kendall San Clemente, CA From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Feb 16 05:46:42 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 07:46:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] wheels Message-ID: <04C8606DA4C34E278791F27E85560F53@Alan> Kendall, I posted quite a few wheel shots awhile ago at www.triumphowners.com/624 including Panasport, Image, Konig, Centerline. cheers, Al From DLylis at aol.com Mon Feb 16 06:02:24 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:02:24 EST Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear Message-ID: If your diff brackets have not been repaired, I would call off the search until positively confirming that this is not the source, by dropping the diff if necessary. Uncracked virgin brackets are rare, indeed. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Feb 16 06:10:22 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:10:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <200902160810.22367.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 16 February 2009 05:37:15 Kendall Larsen wrote: > Hi List, > > I need some new tires, as mine have gotten "old" before the "wore out". I > am toying with the idea of getting some new wheels that are actually round. > What options are out there? Panasport ($$$?) Konig copies? Did you get any > great deal lately? Anybody have a used set they want to sell? My car is > french blue and thinking about the silver look or gunmetal. Open to all > suggestions! > > Thanks, > Kendall > San Clemente, CA Kendall, I got a nice deal on ebay just before Christmas. Superlights 15/6 with 3mm offset for 650 + shipping. There was a 10% sale for 1/2 hour that I stumbled across. The wheels were shipped from Pack Racing, which I believe is the US distributor. Their regular price is 180 per wheel. These wheels will be going on my 72 which will also be painted French Blue. The Ebay seller was an Ebay store. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Mon Feb 16 06:22:05 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:22:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <200902160822.06319.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Monday 16 February 2009 08:02:24 DLylis at aol.com wrote: > If your diff brackets have not been repaired, I would call off the search > until positively confirming that this is not the source, by dropping the > diff if necessary. Uncracked virgin brackets are rare, indeed. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO David, It may still be too early for a confirmation, but I believe my 72 TR6 project's diff brackets are without cracks! I just finished repairing the left rear mounting stud with the help of Marty Sukey's jigs. I have been working on the frame removing rust scale and I have examined all 4 studs top bottom sides and I cant find any cracks. After the frame is blasted, I will be adding the diff re-inforcement kit I got from TSI + I will be adding other frame re-inforcement plates as I have seen on the 6 Pack forum. Maybe after blasting, I will see evidence of cracks. The odometer shows 45K but I don't know if it is true as there is significant body rust that is in the process of being repaired. Bob From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Mon Feb 16 06:41:20 2009 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:41:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Message-ID: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> Taking the advice of a few, this Saturday I drove the 2 = hours to Quantum Mechanics to drop off my TR6 transmission with John Esposito. Great guy and spent lots of time with me (shop is fantastically clutter with British car transmission parts). Pulled the cover off my unit and quickly determined that, in fact, the box did need work. Box had excess slop in it preventing the syncros from working properly. Reverse gear had a few bad teeth and John expected that the top hat bushing was bad. Will get it replaced with the updated steel unit. Estimated bill around $800 which seems reasonable. In addition we talked about the clutch chattering I was getting and John showed me where a few worn items in my cross shaft mechanism could be contributing to the problems. That's also encouraging. Now.....the big question is where the conversation went after that. John went on to show me some of the type J overdrives he was bringing in as cores and rebuilding. He provides the complete kit including the steering column switch and wiring hardness included is the change required with a shaft in the transmission. A lot more $$ at 1500 and certainly not what I had expected doing. It is appealing, however, to envision myself going down the road and adding two extra gears and frankly, it was an addition I might have done in 3-4 years anyway. So two questions, is overdrive a significant improvement? If it is, what would I expect to spend if I pieced it together myself instead of getting the whole kit from John? Thanks Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Feb 16 06:48:42 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:48:42 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif In-Reply-To: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> References: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: Bob, Here's my tip. While I can't bring myself to throw away an open can of brake fluid, as my current bottle is always open, a friend did convinse me to stop buying the HUGE bottles. My car leaks enough to use up a small bottle in a resonable amount of time. Sloane :) '69-Six> > I seem to recall that you shouldn't use an opened container of brake fluif> because there may be water in it from condensation. The bottle I have was> first opened about a year ago. Fact or old wife's tale? > > Thanks> Bob> > Bob Danielson> 1975 TR6 CF38503U> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________> > _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/howitworks?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_howitworks_02200 9 From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Feb 16 07:21:47 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 09:21:47 EST Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear Message-ID: In a message dated 2/16/2009 3:58:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, mailkendall at sbcglobal.net writes: I am most likely to get the clunk when turning while pulling away from a stop. I had a real bad clunk in the TR250 whilst turning right from a stop at a slight incline. If was so bad that Bev would look at me an say " What the Heck was that?" No other real problems other than this one clunk. Lot's of things to suspect, wire wheels, axle splines and diff mounts. However, now that we have the 250 in pieces and the frame sandblasted a big surprise to me was that the frame was "all cracked up" in various places. Not just at the diff mounts which were all gusseted some time ago, just tiny little stress cracks in various places all over the frame. Terry, my metal man, pointed them out along with the rust, etc. Going to take some time and new metal pieces but my frame can be repaired. I wonder if all those tiny little stress cracks played a role to create that big clunk? Cheers, Darrell **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Feb 16 08:29:20 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 15:29:20 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Kendall, round wheels are good and a challenge to achieve with some of the original steel wheels. Hard to beat Panasports for appearance and fit. I got 15x6 wheels with the polished outer rims from Paul Spruell racing in Atlanta who was significantly less expensive than Moss. During a recent email thread about tires, Bud Rolofson sent me a picture of his car which he says has "16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires" and that is a great combination I think. If Bud doesn't have that picture online anywhere I can post it on Photobucket. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall Larsen Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 5:37 AM To: 6pack List Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels Hi List, I need some new tires, as mine have gotten "old" before the "wore out". I am toying with the idea of getting some new wheels that are actually round. What options are out there? Panasport ($$$?) Konig copies? Did you get any great deal lately? Anybody have a used set they want to sell? My car is french blue and thinking about the silver look or gunmetal. Open to all suggestions! Thanks, Kendall San Clemente, CA From janah at att.net Mon Feb 16 08:34:48 2009 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:34:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Message-ID: Darcy - Lots of folks say that you don't need an overdrive. Most of them don't have overdrives and they don't know what they are missing. I have never met anyone who has an OD say "Gee, I am really sorry my car came with an overdrive, and I think I will change it out for a 4 speed." Sure, some folks have migrated to an HVDA 5-speed toyta tranny for various reasons - but notice they are not giving up on the extended gear ratio. If you get an OD you will be spoiled and you will not want to drive with out it. Can you find a J-Type transmission and associated pieces for less money than what Quantum is asking? Probably you can. The risk of course is what condition will the unit be in? Quantum will have overhauled the entire box and they warranty the work. This may or may not be important to you. The one downside of OD in my mind is that they add complexity to the drive train. I think that they are a specialist item. If it breaks, you are not going to get it fixed at "Billy Bob's" garage or AAMCO. You will want somebody like Quantum for service it for you unless you plan to get good with transmissions. Here is where I think the HVDA Toyota trannys have an advantage. You can add one for about the same money as an OD, but they are plentiful, well understood and can be serviced anywhere. John Cyg. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Feb 16 08:42:11 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:42:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> Message-ID: Darcy, I'd say that the value of adding an overdrive for $XXXX.xx is directly proportional to the amount of highway driving that you do. If 99.9% of your driving is around town then there is no real need. But if you do a lot of highway driving and take the car on long trips at 50+ mph then the need is great. Most of us fall somewhere in between. I went the 5 speed route because of the reliability and lack of leaks in the Toyota tranny. Plus I'd rather just shift than have another electrical component to deal with like you do with OD. But that's just me and originality isn't a concern. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hunter, Darcy Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:41 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Taking the advice of a few, this Saturday I drove the 2 = hours to Quantum Mechanics to drop off my TR6 transmission with John Esposito. Great guy and spent lots of time with me (shop is fantastically clutter with British car transmission parts). Pulled the cover off my unit and quickly determined that, in fact, the box did need work. Box had excess slop in it preventing the syncros from working properly. Reverse gear had a few bad teeth and John expected that the top hat bushing was bad. Will get it replaced with the updated steel unit. Estimated bill around $800 which seems reasonable. In addition we talked about the clutch chattering I was getting and John showed me where a few worn items in my cross shaft mechanism could be contributing to the problems. That's also encouraging. Now.....the big question is where the conversation went after that. John went on to show me some of the type J overdrives he was bringing in as cores and rebuilding. He provides the complete kit including the steering column switch and wiring hardness included is the change required with a shaft in the transmission. A lot more $$ at 1500 and certainly not what I had expected doing. It is appealing, however, to envision myself going down the road and adding two extra gears and frankly, it was an addition I might have done in 3-4 years anyway. So two questions, is overdrive a significant improvement? If it is, what would I expect to spend if I pieced it together myself instead of getting the whole kit from John? Thanks Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Feb 16 08:43:50 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 15:43:50 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Darcy, the OD is a huge improvement and the dimwits that decided the majority of the cars exported to the US didn't need it should have been locked up. You will be hard pressed to do this conversion on your own for less than what John is quoting plus he will stand by his work. You have to take the gearbox apart to fit the longer mainshaft so it is not a simple bolt on and John will have to dismantle it anyway so it's a great time to do this conversion.. You will mostly appreciate it for adding a huge range to 3rd gear, pretty much 20mph to 70+ mph with just one touch of the column switch and for highway driving it will reduce the engine rpm in top gear (about 800rpm), significantly reducing noise and aiding fuel consumption. I added the inhibitor switch on 2nd for flexibility in stop/go traffic like DWH in Nashua on Saturdays.. Some people here will suggest the 5 speed conversion but that is not the same experience as the OD for me. There is something about flipping that switch and hearing the OD engage that is very satisfying. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hunter, Darcy Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:41 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Taking the advice of a few, this Saturday I drove the 2 = hours to Quantum Mechanics to drop off my TR6 transmission with John Esposito. Great guy and spent lots of time with me (shop is fantastically clutter with British car transmission parts). Pulled the cover off my unit and quickly determined that, in fact, the box did need work. Box had excess slop in it preventing the syncros from working properly. Reverse gear had a few bad teeth and John expected that the top hat bushing was bad. Will get it replaced with the updated steel unit. Estimated bill around $800 which seems reasonable. In addition we talked about the clutch chattering I was getting and John showed me where a few worn items in my cross shaft mechanism could be contributing to the problems. That's also encouraging. Now.....the big question is where the conversation went after that. John went on to show me some of the type J overdrives he was bringing in as cores and rebuilding. He provides the complete kit including the steering column switch and wiring hardness included is the change required with a shaft in the transmission. A lot more $$ at 1500 and certainly not what I had expected doing. It is appealing, however, to envision myself going down the road and adding two extra gears and frankly, it was an addition I might have done in 3-4 years anyway. So two questions, is overdrive a significant improvement? If it is, what would I expect to spend if I pieced it together myself instead of getting the whole kit from John? Thanks Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA _______________________________________________ From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Feb 16 08:58:44 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 10:58:44 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Message-ID: In a message dated 2/16/2009 8:41:41 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com writes: So two questions, is overdrive a significant improvement? If it is, what would I expect to spend if I pieced it together myself instead of getting the whole kit from John? Thanks Darcy, Overdrive in a TR6 if you do highway cruising at 65 MPH or higher is the best thing since sliced bread. Once you have it you will never want to go back. On grey roads with twists and turns, hills and valleys, you can use the column switch to go into OD from third gear avoiding the shift to fourth keeping the revs nice and constant which is very cool and lots of fun. It would be false economy in my opinion not to convert to OD now with your gearbox on the bench. Going back later will be more $ I bet. That being said I have no opinion on the kit from John since I have not dealt with him. Cheers, Darrell **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Feb 16 09:07:06 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 16:07:06 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FF3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Here is a link to Bud's TR6: http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/BudRTR6.jpg In that same sub album is my TR6 with the 15x6 Panasports and 215/70 tires. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:29 AM To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels Kendall, round wheels are good and a challenge to achieve with some of the original steel wheels. Hard to beat Panasports for appearance and fit. I got 15x6 wheels with the polished outer rims from Paul Spruell racing in Atlanta who was significantly less expensive than Moss. During a recent email thread about tires, Bud Rolofson sent me a picture of his car which he says has "16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires" and that is a great combination I think. If Bud doesn't have that picture online anywhere I can post it on Photobucket. Stan From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 16 09:17:33 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:17:33 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DE43C63@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Stan: For me, there are two compelling arguments in addition to yours: 1. OD adds $1,000 to resale value, while a 5 speed will add little or nothing. 2. Originality. The 1970s vintage British motoring experience is to be savored. Many people will argue that adding FI, 5 speed, supercharging, etc are just making it better. With all respect to those that enjoy modifying their cars, the point for me was to enjoy the motoring experience as it was then. If nothing else it makes me appreciate the reliability and comfort of a modern car even more =;-o Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 7:44 AM To: Hunter, Darcy; '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Darcy, the OD is a huge improvement and the dimwits that decided the majority of the cars exported to the US didn't need it should have been locked up. You will be hard pressed to do this conversion on your own for less than what John is quoting plus he will stand by his work. You have to take the gearbox apart to fit the longer mainshaft so it is not a simple bolt on and John will have to dismantle it anyway so it's a great time to do this conversion.. You will mostly appreciate it for adding a huge range to 3rd gear, pretty much 20mph to 70+ mph with just one touch of the column switch and for highway driving it will reduce the engine rpm in top gear (about 800rpm), significantly reducing noise and aiding fuel consumption. I added the inhibitor switch on 2nd for flexibility in stop/go traffic like DWH in Nashua on Saturdays.. Some people here will suggest the 5 speed conversion but that is not the same experience as the OD for me. There is something about flipping that switch and hearing the OD engage that is very satisfying. Stan From janah at att.net Mon Feb 16 09:18:43 2009 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 11:18:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Get into my Head Message-ID: <27113462E82B440C85DDE905C18E557C@p4home> Hi All- Okay here is another one of those long messages where I ask a lot of questions. Please forgive me in advance. The bottom end rebuild is going well and my engine guy is prompting me to start thinking about the head. So some background. I have a 1970. The head is a Circle B with the narrow ports. I am not going to change this. On a very good price, I picked up a second Circle B with the narrow ports. The thought was that even if the head was cracked, then I would have a good cadaver to learn about porting. Both heads are flat, magnafluxed great and are un-cut, i.e. full thickness. So I guess I will keep one of the heads as a spare at least for now. I will have my head milled to raise compression to 9.5:1. My first questions are about valves. Obviously a 3 angle valve job is part of my spec. But I notice there are different sized valves. Is there a reason to go to larger valves? I am not even sure if I can go to larger valves with this head. Advice? Okay, I read / heard about "gas flowed valves" in 214N stainless. Are these a good way to go? Where can I source these? Valve guides and seals. Bronze or cast iron guides? Valve guide seals or no seals? I plan to use the original 150hp PI cam. I think this set-up used double springs.Will valve guide seals fit with the double springs? I have heard complaints about teflon valve guide seals, but no reasons were given. Is teflon a bad material for valve guide seals? Porting. From what I have read, porting on the 6 consists more of smoothing and removing seams. How hard is this to do? Gasket / Port matching. Easy? Hard? Do it or not? Pocket work. I cannot decipher the Vizard drawings. What is being done in the pocket? Too risky for the novice? Advice? Thanks, John Cyg From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 16 09:24:54 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:24:54 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DE43C66@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Stan: I must admit, the panasport makes a very handsome statement with the TR6. Being an originality nut, I avoided panasports, but not because I don't like them. They are tasteful, and period correct. Undoubtedly much stronger than the originals too. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 7:29 AM To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels Kendall, round wheels are good and a challenge to achieve with some of the original steel wheels. Hard to beat Panasports for appearance and fit. I got 15x6 wheels with the polished outer rims from Paul Spruell racing in Atlanta who was significantly less expensive than Moss. During a recent email thread about tires, Bud Rolofson sent me a picture of his car which he says has "16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle F1 GS-D3 tires" and that is a great combination I think. If Bud doesn't have that picture online anywhere I can post it on Photobucket. Stan From triosan at gmail.com Mon Feb 16 09:29:21 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 08:29:21 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FF3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FF3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0902160829y58306f04j55814d2ea5896ec1@mail.gmail.com> Do not forgetKeonig Rewinds.forpicturesof the 15x7s,brownish color,check out my [stolen] racecar at: http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/StolenTR5# Chuck On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 8:07 AM, Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote: > Here is a link to Bud's TR6: > > http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/BudRTR6.jpg > > In that same sub album is my TR6 with the 15x6 Panasports and 215/70 tires. > > > Stan > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:29 AM > To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List > Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels > > Kendall, round wheels are good and a challenge to achieve with some of the > original steel wheels. > > Hard to beat Panasports for appearance and fit. I got 15x6 wheels with the > polished outer rims from Paul Spruell racing in Atlanta who was > significantly > less expensive than Moss. > > During a recent email thread about tires, Bud Rolofson sent me a picture of > his car which he says has "16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear > Eagle > F1 GS-D3 tires" and that is a great combination I think. If Bud doesn't > have > that picture online anywhere I can post it on Photobucket. > > Stan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Feb 16 09:48:52 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 11:48:52 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Message-ID: In a message dated 2/16/2009 11:18:45 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: Many people will argue that adding FI, 5 speed, supercharging, etc are just making it better. With all respect to those that enjoy modifying their cars, the point for me was to enjoy the motoring experience as it was then. If nothing else it makes me appreciate the reliability and comfort of a modern car even more =;-o I second that emotion! :-) Darrell 71 TR6 68 TR250 Both with Stanpart A Type OD gearboxes, Michelin Redline Tires, Z/S carbs, stock exhaust, etc., as original. **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Feb 16 10:06:08 2009 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:06:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> Message-ID: <49f668fe0902160906i415che66c5a69272efe4@mail.gmail.com> Darcy, I rebuilt the trannie and rebuilt and installed a Volvo OD about 3 years ago. I tend not to use 3rd OD because the ratio is quite close to fourth gear, but 4th OD is a dream over 55. I paid around $850 for the OD, mainshaft and all the rebuild parts and around $250 for the trannie parts and did the work myself. John North On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 8:41 AM, Hunter, Darcy wrote: > Taking the advice of a few, this Saturday I drove the 2 = hours to Quantum > Mechanics to drop off my TR6 transmission with John Esposito. Great guy and > spent lots of time with me (shop is fantastically clutter with British car > transmission parts). Pulled the cover off my unit and quickly determined > that, in fact, the box did need work. Box had excess slop in it preventing > the syncros from working properly. Reverse gear had a few bad teeth and John > expected that the top hat bushing was bad. Will get it replaced with the > updated steel unit. Estimated bill around $800 which seems reasonable. In > addition we talked about the clutch chattering I was getting and John showed > me where a few worn items in my cross shaft mechanism could be contributing to > the problems. That's also encouraging. > Now.....the big question is where the conversation went after that. John went > on to show me some of the type J overdrives he was bringing in as cores and > rebuilding. He provides the complete kit including the steering column switch > and wiring hardness included is the change required with a shaft in the > transmission. A lot more $$ at 1500 and certainly not what I had expected > doing. It is appealing, however, to envision myself going down the road and > adding two extra gears and frankly, it was an addition I might have done in > 3-4 years anyway. So two questions, is overdrive a significant improvement? > If it is, what would I expect to spend if I pieced it together myself instead > of getting the whole kit from John? Thanks > > Darcy Hunter > '73 TR6 > No. Easton, MA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Mon Feb 16 10:13:47 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:13:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0902160906i415che66c5a69272efe4@mail.gmail.com> References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> <49f668fe0902160906i415che66c5a69272efe4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <126C4CF3-C565-4DD6-A445-3782A1743F17@mindspring.com> My first TR6 did not have overdrive. I didn't drive it very far over the period of time i owned it. My current TR6, which has overdrive, has covered about 35,000 miles in the past 7 years. This transmission needed to be rebuilt a year or so ago. I could have either gone with the 5-speed Toyota or rebuilt mine. I had it rebuilt. It wasn't cheap, but I wouldn't have it any other way. I can't imagine not having overdrive or a 5th speed. I picked it up in Texas and drove it a thousand miles home when I bought it. This past summer I covered 3,005 miles in three weeks going from Atlanta to Michigan to the VTR to Canada and then back to Atlanta. The only thing that broke was a snap on my boot cover which required me to screw the snap back in. It was horrible... not! Ashford Little '70 TR6 From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Feb 16 10:15:58 2009 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:15:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear In-Reply-To: <203323.43171.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <203323.43171.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49f668fe0902160915k496afc75uf990a582f301467f@mail.gmail.com> Did you try U-joints on the axles and prop? The splines on my axles were worn which I could easily feel with the axles off the car and I believe these were the source of my clunk, now fixed with new axles. However I did the u-joints at the same time so hard to tell which one. Truth is, there's wear all the way through the drive train and I had to go through the whole thing to get it good and tight. John North On Mon, Feb 16, 2009 at 3:57 AM, Kendall Larsen wrote: > Hey List, > > I have a sporadic clunk in the rear end of my TR6 somewhere. I inspected the diff mounts and they don't look cracked anywhere. The stock shocks appear to mounted solidly. The wheels don't wiggle back and forth at all side to side so the hubs are at least in reasonable shape. I jacked up the rear and put the ebrake on and tried loading the drive train up a little bit in forward and reverse and couldn't reproduce the clunk. I am most likely to get the clunk when turning while pulling away from a stop. > > This makes me think that it is possibly the splines on the half shafts binding up. How should those be lubricated? > > > Any other ideas for clunkiness in the rear? Possibly internal to the differential? > > Kendall > San Clemente, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Feb 16 11:12:15 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 18:12:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> Stan/List; I had considered going the Spruell route for 16" Panasports as well but wondered what would be the best tire size to use, when taking that route. As I mentioned to Bud last week, going with the Goodyear 205/55Z/R16's LOOKS GREAT, but the tire has an OD of only 24.9". As we know, and this list has discussed numerous times, this yields an indicated-speed error for which the owner can just learn to live-with or modify his speedo gear to accommodate/compensate. Aside from that, is there anyone out there running 16" Panasports with a near stock diameter tire? If so, what size/brand are you running and how do you like them? Thanks! Dave '74-Six ---- "Foster wrote: > Kendall, round wheels are good and a challenge to achieve with some of the > original steel wheels. > > Hard to beat Panasports for appearance and fit. I got 15x6 wheels with the > polished outer rims from Paul Spruell racing in Atlanta who was significantly > less expensive than Moss. > > During a recent email thread about tires, Bud Rolofson sent me a picture of > his car which he says has "16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle > F1 GS-D3 tires" and that is a great combination I think. If Bud doesn't have > that picture online anywhere I can post it on Photobucket. > > Stan > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Kendall Larsen > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 5:37 AM > To: 6pack List > Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels > > Hi List, > > I need some new tires, as mine have gotten "old" before the "wore out". I am > toying with the idea of getting some new wheels that are actually round. What > options are out there? Panasport ($$$?) Konig copies? Did you get any great > deal lately? Anybody have a used set they want to sell? My car is french blue > and thinking about the silver look or gunmetal. Open to all suggestions! > > Thanks, > Kendall > San Clemente, CA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 16 12:09:39 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 11:09:39 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluid In-Reply-To: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> References: <98DA94C7254C4CD3B060BD6998045174@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6668@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bob: DOT4 brake fluid is indeed hygroscopic. That is, it absorbs moisture out of the air. If the DOT4 container was tightly capped after use, it should be just fine to use brake fluid from an already opened container. DOT 4 fluid turns a dark gray or dark brown when it absorbs moisture, so if it is clear and "clean" looking then it is still perfectly good. You will notice that the old brake fluid in our cars gets very dark as it absorbs water, and it should be replaced bi-annually to restore good performance and to avoid rusting brake parts. DOT5 is NOT hygroscopic, and never has moisture issues unless it is somehow directly contaminated, so it will not go "stale" as DOT4 can. DOT5 has other problems such as bubble entrainment, cost, and non-miscibility with DOT4 but in general is a good choice when rebuilding or even doing a complete fluid replacement. I converted my TR6 to DOT5 three years ago to insure my new paint did not get puked on. So far, everything has been perfect. I would be overdue for a fluid change if I had used DOT4 when I restored my car. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Friday, February 13, 2009 3:54 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Using Opened Brake Fluif I seem to recall that you shouldn't use an opened container of brake fluid because there may be water in it from condensation. The bottle I have was first opened about a year ago. Fact or old wife's tale? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From ianbreyer at yahoo.com Mon Feb 16 13:08:21 2009 From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 12:08:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] RADIATOR CAP PSI Message-ID: <348847.41021.qm@web52505.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi all. Does anyone know what the proper PSI for the radiator cap for an early 72TR6 is? TRF and Moss have conflicting information. TRF says 7PSI thru 1972. Moss says 13PSI for 1972 - 1976. The car has been running hot and a new thermostat didn't fix it so I'm giving a new cap a shot before thinking about the radiator. Thanks as always. Ian 72TR6 Jasmin Yellow New Haven, CT 06511 home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com From peterschop at aol.com Mon Feb 16 12:54:26 2009 From: peterschop at aol.com (peterschop at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 14:54:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Get into my Head In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB5E8781B90C7F-E38-4A3@webmail-dx11.sysops.aol.com> OK, what is a Circle B head? So some background. I have a 1970. The head is a Circle B with the narrow ports. I am not going to change this. On a very good price, I picked up a second Circle B with the narrow ports. at least for now. I will have my head milled to raise compression to 9.5:1. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Feb 16 14:06:45 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 21:06:45 GMT Subject: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. Message-ID: Hmmm. Is there must be another "Vance" out there who modified his engine with higher CR, and a performance camshaft? Maybe an aftermarket ignition trigger? Dick Who doubts those who suggest that adding a 5 speed does nothing to add value to a TR Six -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:17 AM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT), Hunter, Darcy, '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Stan: For me, there are two compelling arguments in addition to yours: 1. OD adds $1,000 to resale value, while a 5 speed will add little or nothing. 2. Originality. The 1970s vintage British motoring experience is to be savored. Many people will argue that adding FI, 5 speed, supercharging, etc are just making it better. With all respect to those that enjoy modifying their cars, the point for me was to enjoy the motoring experience as it was then. If nothing else it makes me appreciate the reliability and comfort of a modern car even more =;-o Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 7:44 AM To: Hunter, Darcy; '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Darcy, the OD is a huge improvement and the dimwits that decided the majority of the cars exported to the US didn't need it should have been locked up. You will be hard pressed to do this conversion on your own for less than what John is quoting plus he will stand by his work. You have to take the gearbox apart to fit the longer mainshaft so it is not a simple bolt on and John will have to dismantle it anyway so it's a great time to do this conversion.. You will mostly appreciate it for adding a huge range to 3rd gear, pretty much 20mph to 70+ mph with just one touch of the column switch and for highway driving it will reduce the engine rpm in top gear (about 800rpm), significantly reducing noise and aiding fuel consumption. I added the inhibitor switch on 2nd for flexibility in stop/go traffic like DWH in Nashua on Saturdays.. Some people here will suggest the 5 speed conversion but that is not the same experience as the OD for me. There is something about flipping that switch and hearing the OD engage that is very satisfying. Stan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 16 14:27:52 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:27:52 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF66AE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Dick: You raise an interesting point. While I am quite sure I would not pay extra for a 5 speed conversion, that does not mean that the average person might not. Hmmm. The issue for me is originality and concerns about the quality control exercised while doing the conversion. For example, I would not pay more for a TR6 with a Vortec V6 conversion. I would be concerned about reliability, and highly original cars always go for more in Hemmings and other publications. Any ideas how we might get an impartial judge on that one? I could ask my LBC mechanic, who also sells used LBCs. Would that suffice? Would the question "Which sells for more; A TR6 with an aftermarket 5 speed conversion or a TR6 with an overdrive, all other things being equal" be fair? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:07 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Transmissions, and other modifications. Hmmm. Is there must be another "Vance" out there who modified his engine with higher CR, and a performance camshaft? Maybe an aftermarket ignition trigger? Dick Who doubts those who suggest that adding a 5 speed does nothing to add value to a TR Six From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Feb 16 14:42:00 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 21:42:00 GMT Subject: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. Message-ID: Vance---I would agree that a TR Six with an OD tranny, in good working condition, has more resale value than a 5 speed conversion. This would not mean that the 5 speed has little or no value, as you stated. (but I threw out the zinger for writing that you prize the original configuration of our cars, knowing that you have modified it to your liking) Meanwhile, please go ahead with your thoughts on the impartial judging of both types of transmissions. I will add mine at it's conclusion. Respectfully, Dick Taylor -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:27 PM To: Sally or Dick Taylor Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: Transmissions, and other modifications. Dick: You raise an interesting point. While I am quite sure I would not pay extra for a 5 speed conversion, that does not mean that the average person might not. Hmmm. The issue for me is originality and concerns about the quality control exercised while doing the conversion. For example, I would not pay more for a TR6 with a Vortec V6 conversion. I would be concerned about reliability, and highly original cars always go for more in Hemmings and other publications. Any ideas how we might get an impartial judge on that one? I could ask my LBC mechanic, who also sells used LBCs. Would that suffice? Would the question "Which sells for more; A TR6 with an aftermarket 5 speed conversion or a TR6 with an overdrive, all other things being equal" be fair? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:07 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Transmissions, and other modifications. Hmmm. Is there must be another "Vance" out there who modified his engine with higher CR, and a performance camshaft? Maybe an aftermarket ignition trigger? Dick Who doubts those who suggest that adding a 5 speed does nothing to add value to a TR Six From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 16 14:49:18 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 13:49:18 -0800 Subject: [6pack] RADIATOR CAP PSI In-Reply-To: <348847.41021.qm@web52505.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <348847.41021.qm@web52505.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF66BA@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Ian: If your radiator is boiling over, then a new radiator cap will help, or perhaps a higher pressure than stock cap. If the radiator is not boiling over then the cap will not help, so then other things to check are: 1. Condition of the coolant. It should be free from rusty stuff, and be a 50/50 mix of antifreeze and water. Make sure it is topped up adequately. 2. Ignition advance - set the timing with the vacuum line disconnected. 10 BTDC. 3. Mixture. Pull your spark plugs - they should be a grayish brown, the color of corrugated cardboard. Adjust your mixture as needed to get the correct color. 4. Water pump belt. It should not be loose or tattered. 5. Sender/gauge. Disconnect the wire to the sender. The temp gauge should slowly fall to "C". Connect the sender wire to ground. The gauge should read full scale after a few seconds. if either of these fail, replace the gauge. 6. Radiator shroud. Make sure your shroud is present and in good condition. If none of these locate the problem, check your compression in all cylinders. A blown head gasket will often cause overheating. If your compression is low in one or more cylinders, check again after adding a squirt of oil to the low cylinders. If it is still low, suspect your head gasket. If compression is good, then it may be time to have your radiator boiled out Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ian Breyer Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 12:08 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] RADIATOR CAP PSI Hi all. Does anyone know what the proper PSI for the radiator cap for an early 72TR6 is? TRF and Moss have conflicting information. TRF says 7PSI thru 1972. Moss says 13PSI for 1972 - 1976. The car has been running hot and a new thermostat didn't fix it so I'm giving a new cap a shot before thinking about the radiator. Thanks as always. Ian 72TR6 Jasmin Yellow From DLylis at aol.com Mon Feb 16 15:10:18 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:10:18 EST Subject: [6pack] RADIATOR CAP PSI Message-ID: I don't think the radiator cap is going to change much, but it is cheap enough to replace. If your car is generally running hot and you have already replaced the thermostat with a new/correct one, it is likely you have a circulation problem. If you have not done a cooling system flush then that is where I would go. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From DLylis at aol.com Mon Feb 16 15:09:59 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:09:59 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Message-ID: In a message dated 2/16/2009 11:18:37 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: 1. OD adds $1,000 to resale value, while a 5 speed will add little or nothing. Wow! that is just like my 401K. Put in $2,000; get back $1,000. I don't think that OD better than 5 speed or vice versa is an argument worth having, but adding little or nothing, I do not believe is valid. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Mon Feb 16 15:16:53 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:16:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF66AE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF66AE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <7FE96936-D095-40BC-86A7-EFEC1EC0918C@mindspring.com> I think the "all other things being equal" part is the hard part. I believe you'd be hard pressed to find two cars that would be equal so as to compare. It usually goes something like "well this one has a nice body, but needs mechanical" while the other might be the opposite. Ashford Little '70 TR6 Mechanically pretty good, not so much on the cosmetic side of things From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Feb 16 15:39:37 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 22:39:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA9056@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I view Vance's engine mods as just reverting the TR6 back to its original state of tune before another set of dimwits decided to neuter the poor thing to the point that it cant get out of its own way. Just as with the OD, once you give the federal TR6 back its missing 30+ horsepower the difference is like night and day. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:07 PM To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. Hmmm. Is there must be another "Vance" out there who modified his engine with higher CR, and a performance camshaft? Maybe an aftermarket ignition trigger? Dick Who doubts those who suggest that adding a 5 speed does nothing to add value to a TR Six From DLylis at aol.com Mon Feb 16 15:57:03 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:57:03 EST Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? Message-ID: I did a J type and paid $850 for the unit, rebuilt (shipping, etc included) As I recall the tranny rebuild parts (relay, switch, etc. included) were about $300. If John is $1,500 as it sems to say in an earlier post then I would say. . .hello John. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 16 17:32:38 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 16:32:38 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Resale value of a TR6 with overdrive Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF66EE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Folks: Well, there you have it. As usual, I was a tad off. This was for cars in excellent condition, and these prices would be retail at a LBC used car dealer. Sigh. I was surprised by how much value gets added by upgrading the tranny, too. I said +$1,000 and Stan says at the retail level it adds between $5,000 and $6,000(!?) Looks like the guys with the 5 speeds will get some of their money back. But the J type still wins for resale. Neener, neener, neener! But I must (grudgingly, reluctantly, and only under duress) admit that the 5 speed adds some value. Dick Taylor, where are you? I'M SORRY!!!!!! I suspect that this will not end the debate however. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast ________________________________ From: British Auto Works [mailto:email at britishautoworks.com] Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:57 PM To: Navarrette, Vance Subject: RE: Resale value of a TR6 with overdrive Vance, In my opinion the least valuable car would be the stock 4 speed. Depending on the marketing on the other two cars you could go a few directions, driving vs stock, racing etc. The most valuable car would be J type overdrive and then the 5 speed. Stock 4 speed $10-12K 5 Speed $14-15k J type $15-18K Assuming these cars would be sold side by side by side. The 5 speeds are a bit more popular in the racing circuit however. I hope this helps. Stan From apackard68 at att.net Mon Feb 16 18:09:49 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (apackard68 at att.net) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:09:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Interior shots Message-ID: <200902170109.n1H19nC5008876@upsa-web117.ofoto.com> I normally don't have the patience for the "pretty" parts of my restoration, but I think my interior work turned out pretty well. I used the "How To Restore" interior chapter quite a bit for B-post and wheel arch directions. I also utilized snaps in the footwells, tranny tunnel (both pieces) and drive shaft tunnel. I glued the padding to the backs of the floor pieces and then snapped them in place. Using chalk on the male snap heads and then test-fitting the piece left a nice round mark to make installing the female part on the carpet very straight forward. I got into a pretty good rhythm with the work. As you can see, at times I had an eager helper, too, although he preferred to spin the steering column nut more than anything. There's a polar bear run this weekend to Canepa Motorsports in Scotts Valley, CA and I should be ready to go! Andy CD6746L HVDA You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=zgdfamr.470nn9qb&x=0&y=e0ffw0&localeid=en_US If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=zgdfamr.470nn9qb&x=0&y=e0ffw0&localeid=en_US From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Feb 16 18:13:15 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:13:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Interior shots In-Reply-To: <200902170109.n1H19nC5008876@upsa-web117.ofoto.com> References: <200902170109.n1H19nC5008876@upsa-web117.ofoto.com> Message-ID: <7BD559A3A35F468F9FB446D117D61A90@BOBSNEWPC> Andy.... The interior looks great and I really like the console. Is that from Triumph Consoles? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of apackard68 at att.net Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:10 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Interior shots I normally don't have the patience for the "pretty" parts of my restoration, but I think my interior work turned out pretty well. I used the "How To Restore" interior chapter quite a bit for B-post and wheel arch directions. I also utilized snaps in the footwells, tranny tunnel (both pieces) and drive shaft tunnel. I glued the padding to the backs of the floor pieces and then snapped them in place. Using chalk on the male snap heads and then test-fitting the piece left a nice round mark to make installing the female part on the carpet very straight forward. I got into a pretty good rhythm with the work. As you can see, at times I had an eager helper, too, although he preferred to spin the steering column nut more than anything. There's a polar bear run this weekend to Canepa Motorsports in Scotts Valley, CA and I should be ready to go! Andy CD6746L HVDA You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=zgdfamr.470nn9qb&x=0&y=e0f fw0&localeid=en_US If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=zgdfamr.470nn9qb&x=0&y=e0f fw0&localeid=en_US 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Feb 16 18:14:57 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:14:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Resale value of a TR6 with overdrive In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF66EE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF66EE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <499A0F91.3030701@maine.rr.com> Stan/Vance; Any reason only the J-type is cited and not the A-type as well?? Dave '74-Six with A-type OD and TBI Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Folks: > > Well, there you have it. As usual, I was a tad off. This was for cars in >excellent condition, and these prices would be retail at a LBC used car >dealer. Sigh. I was surprised by how much value gets added by upgrading the >tranny, too. I said +$1,000 and Stan says at the retail level it adds between >$5,000 and $6,000(!?) > Looks like the guys with the 5 speeds will get some of their money back. >But the J type still wins for resale. Neener, neener, neener! > But I must (grudgingly, reluctantly, and only under duress) admit that the >5 speed adds some value. Dick Taylor, where are you? I'M SORRY!!!!!! > > I suspect that this will not end the debate however. > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > >________________________________ >From: British Auto Works [mailto:email at britishautoworks.com] >Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:57 PM >To: Navarrette, Vance >Subject: RE: Resale value of a TR6 with overdrive > >Vance, >In my opinion the least valuable car would be the stock 4 speed. Depending on >the marketing on the other two cars you could go a few directions, driving vs >stock, racing etc. >The most valuable car would be J type overdrive and then the 5 speed. >Stock 4 speed $10-12K >5 Speed $14-15k >J type $15-18K >Assuming these cars would be sold side by side by side. >The 5 speeds are a bit more popular in the racing circuit however. >I hope this helps. > > >Stan From apackard68 at att.net Mon Feb 16 18:13:55 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 17:13:55 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Interior shots In-Reply-To: <7BD559A3A35F468F9FB446D117D61A90@BOBSNEWPC> Message-ID: <20090217011704.5162C187644@autox.team.net> Yes. I got it a couple years ago. I like having a place to rest my arm and it has a car charger and speaker as part of it, too. That reminds me that I have to hook up the power to the charger before I get the seats in. Andy -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 5:13 PM To: apackard68 at att.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Interior shots Andy.... The interior looks great and I really like the console. Is that from Triumph Consoles? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of apackard68 at att.net Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 8:10 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Interior shots I normally don't have the patience for the "pretty" parts of my restoration, but I think my interior work turned out pretty well. I used the "How To Restore" interior chapter quite a bit for B-post and wheel arch directions. I also utilized snaps in the footwells, tranny tunnel (both pieces) and drive shaft tunnel. I glued the padding to the backs of the floor pieces and then snapped them in place. Using chalk on the male snap heads and then test-fitting the piece left a nice round mark to make installing the female part on the carpet very straight forward. I got into a pretty good rhythm with the work. As you can see, at times I had an eager helper, too, although he preferred to spin the steering column nut more than anything. There's a polar bear run this weekend to Canepa Motorsports in Scotts Valley, CA and I should be ready to go! Andy CD6746L HVDA You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=zgdfamr.470nn9qb&x=0&y=e0f fw0&localeid=en_US If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/ShareLanding.action?c=zgdfamr.470nn9qb&x=0&y=e0f fw0&localeid=en_US 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Feb 16 18:24:41 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 19:24:41 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. References: Message-ID: <002501c9909e$87ae2820$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> this should settle it: everyone sell their car, then we'll see who got how much for what. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:42 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmissions, and other modifications. > Vance---I would agree that a TR Six with an OD tranny, in good working > condition, has more resale value than a 5 speed conversion. This would not > mean that the 5 speed has little or no value, as you stated. (but I threw > out > the zinger for writing that you prize the original configuration of our > cars, > knowing that you have modified it to your liking) > Meanwhile, please go ahead with your thoughts on the impartial judging of > both > types of transmissions. I will add mine at it's conclusion. > > Respectfully, > Dick Taylor > > > -----Original Message----- > From: Navarrette, Vance > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:27 PM > To: Sally or Dick Taylor > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: RE: Transmissions, and other modifications. > > Dick: > > You raise an interesting point. While I am quite sure I would not > pay > extra for a 5 speed conversion, that does not mean that the average person > might not. Hmmm. The issue for me is originality and concerns about the > quality control exercised while doing the conversion. For example, I would > not > pay more for a TR6 with a Vortec V6 conversion. I would be concerned about > reliability, and highly original cars always go for more in Hemmings and > other > publications. > Any ideas how we might get an impartial judge on that one? > I could ask my LBC mechanic, who also sells used LBCs. Would that > suffice? > > Would the question "Which sells for more; A TR6 with an aftermarket > 5 > speed conversion or a TR6 with an overdrive, all other things being equal" > be > fair? > > Vance > > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 1:07 PM > To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Transmissions, and other modifications. > > Hmmm. Is there must be another "Vance" out there who modified his engine > with > higher CR, and a performance camshaft? > Maybe an aftermarket ignition trigger? > Dick > > Who doubts those who suggest that adding a 5 speed does nothing to add > value > to a TR Six From trmarty at hotmail.com Mon Feb 16 19:32:28 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 21:32:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FF3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <656644.57482.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FF3@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: That's Bob Lang with his back to the camera talking to Richard Good.That's Bob's boss on the cell phone behind the cars. Marty > From: stan.foster at hp.com > To: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 16:07:06 +0000 > Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels > > Here is a link to Bud's TR6: > > http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/BudRTR6.jpg > > In that same sub album is my TR6 with the 15x6 Panasports and 215/70 tires. > > > Stan > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:29 AM > To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List > Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels > > Kendall, round wheels are good and a challenge to achieve with some of the > original steel wheels. > > Hard to beat Panasports for appearance and fit. I got 15x6 wheels with the > polished outer rims from Paul Spruell racing in Atlanta who was significantly > less expensive than Moss. > > During a recent email thread about tires, Bud Rolofson sent me a picture of > his car which he says has "16 inch Panasports with 205/55Z/R16 Goodyear Eagle > F1 GS-D3 tires" and that is a great combination I think. If Bud doesn't have > that picture online anywhere I can post it on Photobucket. > > Stan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Feb 16 19:49:20 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 02:49:20 GMT Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear Message-ID: Kendall---The axle splines can be lubed with any good grease. (I prefer that nasty black stuff, Molykote). Clean out the inner splines with an old toothbrush and thinner or gas, and the do the same with the outer half. Wipe or blow dry, lather them up, and slip them together. If you have both pieces in your hands you can sort of tell if the spines are worn, by doing the back and forth thing. You'll get a better look at some of the u-joints this way. (I always suspect the 'joints) As others have noted, you could have a stacked accumlation of play that can create the snap you hear. A new right side axle solved my noise, after doing the other checks. Swapping them around from side to side did nothing. Do not discount (loose) lever shock bolts as a cause. It only takes a little to bang around. Check the bolts that secure the trailing arm brackets. If you suspect it's in the diff, take a drive "up the coast". I can loan you a rebuilt one. If that was the problem, we can negotiate a price! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Kendall Larsen Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 12:57 AM To: 6pack List Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear Hey List, I have a sporadic clunk in the rear end of my TR6 somewhere. I inspected the diff mounts and they don't look cracked anywhere. The stock shocks appear to mounted solidly. The wheels don't wiggle back and forth at all side to side so the hubs are at least in reasonable shape. I jacked up the rear and put the ebrake on and tried loading the drive train up a little bit in forward and reverse and couldn't reproduce the clunk. I am most likely to get the clunk when turning while pulling away from a stop. This makes me think that it is possibly the splines on the half shafts binding up. How should those be lubricated? Any other ideas for clunkiness in the rear? Possibly internal to the differential? Kendall San Clemente, CA 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Feb 16 20:02:58 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 03:02:58 GMT Subject: [6pack] RADIATOR CAP PSI Message-ID: Ian---By all means, check this condition with another radiator cap. I have used both the 7 lb. and (orig) 13lb. cap on my '73. I would think that either would solve your problem, IF your present cap is now bad. -----Original Message----- From: Ian Breyer Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 12:08 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] RADIATOR CAP PSI Hi all. Does anyone know what the proper PSI for the radiator cap for an early 72TR6 is? TRF and Moss have conflicting information. TRF says 7PSI thru 1972. Moss says 13PSI for 1972 - 1976. The car has been running hot and a new thermostat didn't fix it so I'm giving a new cap a shot before thinking about the radiator. Thanks as always. Ian 72TR6 Jasmin Yellow New Haven, CT 06511 home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From lee at automate-it.com Mon Feb 16 20:03:22 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 21:03:22 -0600 (CST) Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <3829.216.153.170.30.1234839802.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> > you can use the > column switch to go into OD from third gear avoiding the shift to fourth > keeping the revs nice and constant which is very cool and lots of fun. If you do much 'sportive' driving, this is the best reason for the OD. One of my favorite youtube videos is a great example of this. Check out this TR4 w/ OD at the N|rburgring: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeiVEwhy4SQ It's also fun to see all the cars that this guy *passes*. - Lee From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Feb 16 20:34:28 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 03:34:28 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <3829.216.153.170.30.1234839802.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> References: <3829.216.153.170.30.1234839802.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA9074@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Nice video Lee. I often go searching YouTube during these long New England winters looking for a fix.. Note the number of times he flips in and out of OD vs changing gear. That's a great example. On a typical country/twisty road you may never get out of 3rd and just use the column switch to go in and out of OD. Great fun. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 10:03 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? > you can use the > column switch to go into OD from third gear avoiding the shift to fourth > keeping the revs nice and constant which is very cool and lots of fun. If you do much 'sportive' driving, this is the best reason for the OD. One of my favorite youtube videos is a great example of this. Check out this TR4 w/ OD at the N|rburgring: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeiVEwhy4SQ It's also fun to see all the cars that this guy *passes*. - Lee 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Feb 16 21:58:14 2009 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 20:58:14 -0800 Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole Message-ID: <000001c990bc$592d9260$b1191718@computer> Would anyone have any suggestions as to how to plug, preferably flush, the hole in the head for the EGR valve? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Feb 16 22:00:18 2009 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Mon, 16 Feb 2009 21:00:18 -0800 Subject: [6pack] to plug the EGR valve hole? Message-ID: <000401c990bc$a1612740$b1191718@computer> Would anyone have any suggestions as to how to plug, preferably flush, the hole in the head for the EGR valve on a '74 TR6? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Feb 17 06:10:52 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:10:52 +0000 Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole In-Reply-To: <000001c990bc$592d9260$b1191718@computer> References: <000001c990bc$592d9260$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA90D0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Jim, I took the EGR valve and its locknut to the hardware store and got a bolt with the same thread. I cut the head off the bolt leaving a stud that was sized for the EGR hole depth. Then I cut a slot in the top of the stud with a dremel and grinding wheel so that I could screw the stud into the EGR hole with a large screwdriver. I threaded the original lock nut onto the top of the stud, used some high temp sealant around the stud and screwed it into the EGR hole and locked it with the lock nut. The end result is not exactly flush but it a neat looking installation that is just the height of the lock nut above the block. If this is not clear I can post a picture. This was not my idea, I got it from someone here I think so my apologies for not being able to credit the inventor. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim hearn Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:58 PM To: 'TR6' Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole Would anyone have any suggestions as to how to plug, preferably flush, the hole in the head for the EGR valve? From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Feb 17 06:13:17 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 08:13:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole In-Reply-To: <000001c990bc$592d9260$b1191718@computer> References: <000001c990bc$592d9260$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <336FC974BBF44A42B81FC4A2FB0BA60B@BOBSNEWPC> I'm pretty sure it's 3/4"-16NF and using a set screw would get it flush with the head. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim hearn Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:58 PM To: 'TR6' Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole Would anyone have any suggestions as to how to plug, preferably flush, the hole in the head for the EGR valve? [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From fishplate at charter.net Tue Feb 17 06:51:00 2009 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 5:51:00 -0800 Subject: [6pack] to plug the EGR valve hole? In-Reply-To: <000401c990bc$a1612740$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <20090217085100.LJWL2.411586.root@mp06> ---- jim hearn wrote: > Would anyone have any suggestions as to how to plug, preferably flush, the > hole in the head for the EGR valve on a '74 TR6? I can't recall exactly what I used, but it was a brass fitting commonly available at a well-stocked hardware store. Take the old bit in and match it up... Jeff Scarbrough Smaug, Ga. From triosan at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 07:52:12 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 06:52:12 -0800 Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA90D0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c990bc$592d9260$b1191718@computer> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA90D0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0902170652y304571caibb2866038f5cab0f@mail.gmail.com> cannot remember the thread-- 3/4? Anyway,once you know McMaster-Carr has allen head type plugs that fit. On Tue, Feb m17, 2009 at 5:10 AM, Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote: > Jim, I took the EGR valve and its locknut to the hardware store and got a > bolt > with the same thread. I cut the head off the bolt leaving a stud that was > sized for the EGR hole depth. Then I cut a slot in the top of the stud with > a > dremel and grinding wheel so that I could screw the stud into the EGR hole > with a large screwdriver. I threaded the original lock nut onto the top of > the > stud, used some high temp sealant around the stud and screwed it into the > EGR > hole and locked it with the lock nut. The end result is not exactly flush > but > it a neat looking installation that is just the height of the lock nut > above > the block. > > If this is not clear I can post a picture. > > This was not my idea, I got it from someone here I think so my apologies > for > not being able to credit the inventor. > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] > On > Behalf Of jim hearn > Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 11:58 PM > To: 'TR6' > Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole > > Would anyone have any suggestions as to how to plug, preferably flush, the > hole in the head for the EGR valve? > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Feb 17 07:58:52 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:58:52 +0000 Subject: [6pack] To plug EGR hole In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0902170652y304571caibb2866038f5cab0f@mail.gmail.com> References: <000001c990bc$592d9260$b1191718@computer> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA90D0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8cbd782d0902170652y304571caibb2866038f5cab0f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA914B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I should explain that one of the reasons I went with the bolt and lock nut approach was that my previous solution (a brass fitting from the hardware store) eventually failed after several years and was ejected with an accompanying lot of noise and loss of power so on my next attempt I went with the longer thread of the bolt and the lock nut. So far so good. YMMV. Stan From: Chuck Arnold [mailto:triosan at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 9:52 AM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT) Cc: jim hearn; TR6 Subject: Re: [6pack] To plug EGR hole cannot remember the thread-- 3/4? Anyway,once you know McMaster-Carr has allen head type plugs that fit. From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 17 08:48:06 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 10:48:06 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Hi, Dimwits aside... you can achieve part of the "effect" of the o/d by going to a 3.45 differential gear, which is what the home market cars have. I'm pretty sure the US got the 3.70 diff because we also got less power from the carb'd engine. At this stage, there's not a lot of bone-stock cars out there, so the power issue is probably not present. On the downside, you loose some accleration, if that matters. I'm not sure if there are sources from NEW 3.45 gears, but there may be. Hokme market PI cars and TVR used the 3.45. I think some of the saloon cars did too (like the Triumph 2500). Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Feb 17 09:20:57 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 11:20:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <16E4B67EC60A41E4BBEF7CFA6694C565@D1TG6Y71> I picked up a new 3.45 crown wheel and pinion off eBay about a year ago. There is a guy in Cheshire, UK, who sells them occasionally. I put a search marker in eBay and it flagged me when it was up for sale. I think I paid GBP105. It was a second chance offer so they guy must have a stash of these. I had tried to get a used diff from UK scrap yards when I was over there, but it is increasingly difficult to find old Triumphs in the general (aka cheap) yards, unless you have some pretty good local knowledge. You can go to one of the specialist Triumph breakers, but they want more money than I was willing to pay for a whole diff, and they wouldn't sell the CWP alone. I do have an A type overdrive so I'm not sure I will ever install the lower ratio ... but after the engine rebuild, maybe I'll have so much power that I could use it! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Lang" To: "Foster, Stan (HP IT)" Cc: "Hunter, Darcy" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 10:48 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? > Hi, > > Dimwits aside... you can achieve part of the "effect" of the o/d by going > to a 3.45 differential gear, which is what the home market cars have. > > I'm pretty sure the US got the 3.70 diff because we also got less power > from the carb'd engine. At this stage, there's not a lot of bone-stock > cars out there, so the power issue is probably not present. > > On the downside, you loose some accleration, if that matters. > > I'm not sure if there are sources from NEW 3.45 gears, but there may be. > Hokme market PI cars and TVR used the 3.45. I think some of the saloon > cars did too (like the Triumph 2500). > > Regards, > rml From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Feb 17 09:25:39 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 11:25:39 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <16E4B67EC60A41E4BBEF7CFA6694C565@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: Of course, I did a search and found the guy straightway James Paddock Ltd. http://www.jamespaddock.co.uk/Stock.aspx?SubCategoryID=6&VehicleID=6&category=6 I would wait till he puts them on eBay, you get a better price! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Gordon" To: "Robert Lang" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 11:20 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? >I picked up a new 3.45 crown wheel and pinion off eBay about a year ago. >There is a guy in Cheshire, UK, who sells them occasionally. I put a >search marker in eBay and it flagged me when it was up for sale. I think I >paid GBP105. It was a second chance offer so they guy must have a stash of >these. > > I had tried to get a used diff from UK scrap yards when I was over there, > but it is increasingly difficult to find old Triumphs in the general (aka > cheap) yards, unless you have some pretty good local knowledge. You can > go to one of the specialist Triumph breakers, but they want more money > than I was willing to pay for a whole diff, and they wouldn't sell the CWP > alone. > > I do have an A type overdrive so I'm not sure I will ever install the > lower ratio ... but after the engine rebuild, maybe I'll have so much > power that I could use it! > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 17 09:31:52 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 11:31:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> References: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> Message-ID: On Mon, 16 Feb 2009, Dave wrote: > Stan/List; > > I had considered going the Spruell route for 16" Panasports as well but > wondered what would be the best tire size to use, when taking that > route. As I mentioned to Bud last week, going with the Goodyear > 205/55Z/R16's LOOKS GREAT, but the tire has an OD of only 24.9". As we > know, and this list has discussed numerous times, this yields an > indicated-speed error for which the owner can just learn to live-with or > modify his speedo gear to accommodate/compensate. 225/60-15 is the same diameter as the stock TR6 tire. There are TONS of tires out there in that size. > Aside from that, is there anyone out there running 16" Panasports with a > near stock diameter tire? If so, what size/brand are you running and how > do you like them? Can't help you there. I can tell you about running 10" slicks, though. :-) > Thanks! > > Dave > '74-Six regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From wensley_tr at comcast.net Tue Feb 17 09:36:59 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 11:36:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> Message-ID: <007501c9911d$f4471cb0$dcd55610$@net> Dave just pick a tire that's 26" OD or has close as you can Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 11:32 AM To: Dave Cc: 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels On Mon, 16 Feb 2009, Dave wrote: > Stan/List; > > I had considered going the Spruell route for 16" Panasports as well but > wondered what would be the best tire size to use, when taking that > route. As I mentioned to Bud last week, going with the Goodyear > 205/55Z/R16's LOOKS GREAT, but the tire has an OD of only 24.9". As we > know, and this list has discussed numerous times, this yields an > indicated-speed error for which the owner can just learn to live-with or > modify his speedo gear to accommodate/compensate. 225/60-15 is the same diameter as the stock TR6 tire. There are TONS of tires out there in that size. > Aside from that, is there anyone out there running 16" Panasports with a > near stock diameter tire? If so, what size/brand are you running and how > do you like them? Can't help you there. I can tell you about running 10" slicks, though. :-) > Thanks! > > Dave > '74-Six regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 17 09:38:30 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 11:38:30 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Get into my Head In-Reply-To: <8CB5E8781B90C7F-E38-4A3@webmail-dx11.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CB5E8781B90C7F-E38-4A3@webmail-dx11.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 peterschop at aol.com wrote: > OK, what is a Circle B head? There were a number of foundries that cast heads for Triumph. The foundries all used a different casting mark (usually on the front of the head on the manifold side but under the valve cover). Circle B is a scrolly-looking B (like the B in Bentley) inside a circle. There are others, Block N is one. The Circle B heads were sought after by racers as the castings are reportedly thicker than the others, hence they make a better candidate for porting and milling (e.g. you can take more material away without compromising the head. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Feb 17 12:46:25 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 11:46:25 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels References: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> <007501c9911d$f4471cb0$dcd55610$@net> Message-ID: <003301c99138$6adb8fe0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> I once read (on the LIST?) that a 185SR15 is a 185/80-15. That seems to be correct and can be used in this Tire Calculator. http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1 I used it in my selection of 205/70-15 on stock wheels. With a Nuvi GPS I confirmed my speedo within 1 mph at 60 with this size tire. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Craig" To: "'Robert Lang'" ; "'Dave'" Cc: "'6pack List'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 8:36 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels > Dave just pick a tire that's 26" OD or has close as you can > > Craig > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Robert Lang > Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 11:32 AM > To: Dave > Cc: 6pack List > Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels > > On Mon, 16 Feb 2009, Dave wrote: > > > Stan/List; > > > > I had considered going the Spruell route for 16" Panasports as well but > > wondered what would be the best tire size to use, when taking that > > route. As I mentioned to Bud last week, going with the Goodyear > > 205/55Z/R16's LOOKS GREAT, but the tire has an OD of only 24.9". As we > > know, and this list has discussed numerous times, this yields an > > indicated-speed error for which the owner can just learn to live-with or > > modify his speedo gear to accommodate/compensate. > > 225/60-15 is the same diameter as the stock TR6 tire. > > There are TONS of tires out there in that size. > > > Aside from that, is there anyone out there running 16" Panasports with a > > near stock diameter tire? If so, what size/brand are you running and how > > do you like them? > > Can't help you there. I can tell you about running 10" slicks, though. > > :-) > > > Thanks! > > > > Dave > > '74-Six > > regards, > rml > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - > Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent > Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! > Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.11780 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.11780 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Tue Feb 17 09:54:03 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 09:54:03 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Get into my Head In-Reply-To: References: <8CB5E8781B90C7F-E38-4A3@webmail-dx11.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <000801c99120$587e8f40$097badc0$@edu> All right, I've been letting it sit there for a couple of days, but no one has picked it up yet, so I will.... So, Robert, are you telling the group that you need a head job?? Kevin Cc82183u -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 9:39 AM To: peterschop at aol.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Get into my Head On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 peterschop at aol.com wrote: > OK, what is a Circle B head? There were a number of foundries that cast heads for Triumph. The foundries all used a different casting mark (usually on the front of the head on the manifold side but under the valve cover). Circle B is a scrolly-looking B (like the B in Bentley) inside a circle. There are others, Block N is one. The Circle B heads were sought after by racers as the castings are reportedly thicker than the others, hence they make a better candidate for porting and milling (e.g. you can take more material away without compromising the head. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 10:28:00 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:28:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clunky rear In-Reply-To: <200902160822.06319.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200902160822.06319.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I made up a set of drill / tap guides to allow for the repair of the diff mounts by replacing the original threaded porting with a stud so you can make the repair from underneath with the tub on. That is what Bob is referring to. If any of you ever have a need to borrow them drop me an email. Marty > > I just finished repairing the left rear mounting stud with the help of Marty > Sukey's jigs. I have been working on the frame removing rust scale and I > have examined all 4 studs top bottom sides and I cant find any cracks. > After the frame is blasted, I will be adding the diff re-inforcement kit I got > from TSI + I will be adding other frame re-inforcement plates as I have seen > on the 6 Pack forum. Maybe after blasting, I will see evidence of cracks. > > The odometer shows 45K but I don't know if it is true as there is significant > body rust that is in the process of being repaired. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie. http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550 F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008 From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 10:35:59 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 12:35:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Not just for cruising. I wish I had an A type in my TR6 to use for autoxing. There has been many a course where I could have shaved time off my runs if I had one of those puppies. Some day.... Marty > > Overdrive in a TR6 if you do highway cruising at 65 MPH or higher is the > best thing since sliced bread. > > Cheers, > Darrell > _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Feb 17 11:20:30 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 10:20:30 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion. In-Reply-To: References: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6920@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> RML: Having completely destroyed my credibility out there with the "How much is a 5 speed worth?" debacle, maybe I should be lying low for a while.... Naaah! What fun would that be? As Confucius once said "To be seen, stand up. To be heard, speak up. To be appreciated, shut up." Ahem. Do I remember some people saying that the 225/60 tires would rub something under the body on some cars? Was it the front end when the steering is at its extremes? Memory is fading.... must take ginko-biloba soon... Hey, where did this adult diaper come from? Vance P.S. Comparing tires is like being in a locker room. Its fun to impress your friends with the size of your rubber even if you seldom go for a spin. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 8:32 AM To: Dave Cc: 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels On Mon, 16 Feb 2009, Dave wrote: 225/60-15 is the same diameter as the stock TR6 tire. There are TONS of tires out there in that size. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Tue Feb 17 11:24:00 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:24:00 EST Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion. Message-ID: Ha ha, good one Vance. Keep firing!! Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 17 12:23:43 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:23:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion. In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6920@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6920@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 17 Feb 2009, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > RML: Present, Sir! > Having completely destroyed my credibility out there with the "How > much is a 5 speed worth?" debacle, maybe I should be lying low for a > while.... Naaah! What fun would that be? As Confucius once said "To be > seen, stand up. To be heard, speak up. To be appreciated, shut up." Nah, keep the quips coming. > Ahem. Do I remember some people saying that the 225/60 tires would > rub something under the body on some cars? Was it the front end when the > steering is at its extremes? The answer actually depends on several factors. One important one is whether you have lowered the car (or not). I ran 215/70's for years and only had minor rubbing when the car was turned full lock on very uneven gound (think one or more feet of slope between the left side of the car and the right side). That car is lowered about 1.5". Now, when I ran 225/50-15 race tires (same car), I had MINOR rubbing at full lock on the sway bar. That was an Addco 7/8" bar. I never did figure out if the bar had shifted left/right in the mounts (very possible due to how the Addco bar is installed). But again, this car is lowered kind of a lot and 225/50's are a LOT wider than the stock tire (close to 2" wider for that particular tire). 2 inches is a LOT. > Memory is fading.... must take ginko-biloba soon... Hey, where did > this adult diaper come from? Yikes! TMI > Vance > > P.S. Comparing tires is like being in a locker room. Its fun to > impress your friends with the size of your rubber even if you seldom go > for a spin. Oh yeah. Except the folks that get the right rubber will always beat those that put a zillion bux$ into a motor. Unless the motor guy also puts tires on in which case it's C YA. Funny side bar... GRM ran a series about ultimate track cars. Each car was characterized with HP, weight and other factors. The single factor that led to better lap times was TIRE WIDTH. More rubber is more fasterer. You can quote me on that. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 12:25:59 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:25:59 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion. In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6920@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6920@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <354a1780902171125o627dc4c2ta43f3b3583ab6674@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Feb 17, 2009 at 12:20 PM, Navarrette, Vance < vance.navarrette at intel.com> wrote: > > Ahem. Do I remember some people saying that the 225/60 tires would > rub > something under the body on some cars? Was it the front end when the > steering > is at its extremes? Of course, I don't know what YOU remember. ;-) But, on my car, with 215/60x15 tires on 15x7 rims and Goodparts springs, I would occasionally get some rub when the car was fully loaded (2 fat guys and their gear). 225's would be wider, and a bit more likely to interfere on a lowered car. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From wensley_tr at comcast.net Tue Feb 17 12:47:40 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 14:47:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion. In-Reply-To: <354a1780902171125o627dc4c2ta43f3b3583ab6674@mail.gmail.com> References: <20090216181215.IZS7O.28161.root@hrndva-web07-z01> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6920@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <354a1780902171125o627dc4c2ta43f3b3583ab6674@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <009601c99138$97b83e00$c728ba00$@net> The word extreme should tell you something And I run 225x55x16 in the rear Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Irv Korey Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 2:26 PM To: Navarrette, Vance Cc: 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion. On Tue, Feb 17, 2009 at 12:20 PM, Navarrette, Vance < vance.navarrette at intel.com> wrote: > > Ahem. Do I remember some people saying that the 225/60 tires would > rub > something under the body on some cars? Was it the front end when the > steering > is at its extremes? Of course, I don't know what YOU remember. ;-) But, on my car, with 215/60x15 tires on 15x7 rims and Goodparts springs, I would occasionally get some rub when the car was fully loaded (2 fat guys and their gear). 225's would be wider, and a bit more likely to interfere on a lowered car. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From peterschop at aol.com Tue Feb 17 13:00:06 2009 From: peterschop at aol.com (peterschop at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:00:06 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 3, Issue 60 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CB5F5176AE7E3D-1084-1732@webmail-de14.sysops.aol.com> I just looked at my head and it has a bold N with a 2 above it. You learn something every day. Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 On Mon, 16 Feb 2009 peterschop at aol.com wrote: > OK, what is a Circle B head? There were a number of foundries that cast heads for Triumph. The foundries all used a different casting mark (usually on the front of the head on the manifold side but under the valve cover). Circle B is a scrolly-looking B (like the B in Bentley) inside a circle. There are others, Block N is one. The Circle B heads were sought after by racers as the castings are reportedly thicker than the others, hence they make a better candidate for porting and milling (e.g. you can take more material away without compromising the head. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From Pimento73 at aol.com Tue Feb 17 13:53:26 2009 From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:53:26 EST Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels Message-ID: In a message dated 2/17/2009 11:50:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, rpeglow at optonline.net writes: once read (on the LIST?) that a 185SR15 is a 185/80-15. That seems to be correct and can be used in this Tire Calculator. _http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1_ (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1) 185/80 15 is as close as you can get the original fitment tires actually had an aspect ratio of 82 and diameter was 26.94 Cheers, Jack Mc **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From Pimento73 at aol.com Tue Feb 17 13:58:39 2009 From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:58:39 EST Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion. Message-ID: In a message dated 2/17/2009 2:24:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, lang at isis.mit.edu writes: More rubber is more fasterer. You can quote me on that. Thanks, I will I will use that this Sunday to explain why I have 225/50 13 Hoosier A6s on 13 by 5.5 in wheels (running TR8 in E Stock) Cheers, Jack Mc **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Feb 17 14:12:27 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 21:12:27 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Get into my Head References: <8CB5E8781B90C7F-E38-4A3@webmail-dx11.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Robert Lang wrote: > There were a number of foundries that cast heads for Triumph. The foundries all used a different > casting mark (usually on the front of the head on the manifold side but under the valve cover). > Circle B is a scrolly-looking B (like the B in Bentley) inside a circle. And for the enquiring mind, the B code head came from Birmid Qualcast - just down the road by 300 yards from Rolls Royce aero engines in Derby. Their other claim to fame was the manufacture of quite the most basic side-valve lawnmower engine I've ever encountered that inspite of its technological shortcomings, seems to defy age and goes on for ever. Jonmac From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Feb 17 14:14:44 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 16:14:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how many people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had suspension rubbing issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like 225-60R16's will work but I'd hate to but them then find there are major rubbing issues. My car is lowered an inch in front and about the same in back.... Dave ---- Pimento73 at aol.com wrote: > > > In a message dated 2/17/2009 11:50:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > rpeglow at optonline.net writes: > > once read (on the LIST?) that a 185SR15 is a 185/80-15. > That seems to be correct and can be used in this Tire Calculator. > _http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1_ > (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1) > > > 185/80 15 is as close as you can get > the original fitment tires actually had an aspect ratio of 82 and diameter > was 26.94 > > Cheers, > Jack Mc > **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. > (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From emanteno at gmail.com Tue Feb 17 14:26:21 2009 From: emanteno at gmail.com (Irv Korey) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:26:21 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> References: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> Message-ID: <354a1780902171326g137d459ckedde187486362c75@mail.gmail.com> On Tue, Feb 17, 2009 at 3:14 PM, Dave wrote: > My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how many > people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had suspension rubbing > issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like 225-60R16's will work but > I'd hate to but them then find there are major rubbing issues. My car is > lowered an inch in front and about the same in back.... I went from 215/60x15 on 15x7 wheels to 205/55x16 when I switched to 16x7 Konig Rewinds. I chose that tire size because the 205/55x16" tires are .3" smaller in diameter and .5" narrower in section width than the 215/60x15. My car is lowered on Good springs all around. I went a little smaller in order to eliminate (I hope) a slight rub at the outer edge of the tire on the fender lip when the car is fully loaded and is driven over a significant dip or bump. I only have about 150 miles on this setup so far, thanks to Old Man Winter, but so far so good. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Tue Feb 17 14:45:48 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 16:45:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> References: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> Message-ID: I am running 215/60/16 on a set of Panasport wheels. 225/60/16 will not fit without some major issues. Rolling the fenders may help. My car also has the Goodparts springs which lower it about an inch. I have tweaked the front left fender lip on the rare occasion which usually involves a big dip and while I'm turning. I think some folks are running staggered sizes with 215/60/16 in the rear, but 215/55 or 50 in the front and not had problems. In my case, the occasional dip hasn't bothered me enough to change. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Feb 17, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Dave wrote: > My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how > many people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had > suspension rubbing issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like > 225-60R16's will work but I'd hate to but them then find there are > major rubbing issues. My car is lowered an inch in front and about > the same in back.... > > Dave > > ---- Pimento73 at aol.com wrote: >> >> >> In a message dated 2/17/2009 11:50:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, >> rpeglow at optonline.net writes: >> >> once read (on the LIST?) that a 185SR15 is a 185/80-15. >> That seems to be correct and can be used in this Tire Calculator. >> _http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1_ >> (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1) >> >> >> 185/80 15 is as close as you can get >> the original fitment tires actually had an aspect ratio of 82 and >> diameter >> was 26.94 >> >> Cheers, >> Jack Mc >> **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. >> (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003 >> ) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 70tr6 at mindspring.com From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Tue Feb 17 14:53:53 2009 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:53:53 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? Message-ID: <000001c9914a$3a03ba20$b1191718@computer> I thought I had seen on some posts that bronze valve guides were the way to go with a TR6 so now that I need to do a complete valve job, I bought bronze guides to do it. When I took it to the machine shop (that has a good rep for doing British stuff), I was told that they had quit putting in bronze guides due to the extra heat in the combustion chamber caused by the new fuel with no lead. They said that early on when they were using bronze guides with the new fuel, due to dissimilar expansion rates for the different metals (head and guides), guides were loosing up and falling out. Has anyone heard this, experienced this, or have any information on this. Is anyone running bronze guides successfully? Mine is a stock motor but if this is true, there doesn't seem to be enough good points for the bronze to risk the calamity. Any thoughts? Jim [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] From mgc4 at cdc.gov Tue Feb 17 14:55:56 2009 From: mgc4 at cdc.gov (Campsmith, Michael (CDC/CCID/NCHHSTP)) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 16:55:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] FW: TR6 Wheels Message-ID: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC6029D0A68@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov> I put 215/60/16 tires on Panasports at all 4 corners of my lowered 1974 TR6. The rears have no clearance issues but I got nervous about the minimal clearance in the front. Since I did a body-off restoration I was scared of snagging a front fender at full lock over nasty bumps, so I switched to 205 series in the front. So far no clearance issues, but I haven't done any super-spirited motoring with this set up. Michael Campsmith 1974 TR6 (now BRG) -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ashford Little Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 4:46 PM To: Dave Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels I am running 215/60/16 on a set of Panasport wheels. 225/60/16 will not fit without some major issues. Rolling the fenders may help. My car also has the Goodparts springs which lower it about an inch. I have tweaked the front left fender lip on the rare occasion which usually involves a big dip and while I'm turning. I think some folks are running staggered sizes with 215/60/16 in the rear, but 215/55 or 50 in the front and not had problems. In my case, the occasional dip hasn't bothered me enough to change. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Feb 17, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Dave wrote: > My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how > many people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had suspension > rubbing issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like 225-60R16's > will work but I'd hate to but them then find there are major rubbing > issues. My car is lowered an inch in front and about the same in > back.... > > Dave > > ---- Pimento73 at aol.com wrote: >> >> >> In a message dated 2/17/2009 11:50:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, >> rpeglow at optonline.net writes: >> >> once read (on the LIST?) that a 185SR15 is a 185/80-15. >> That seems to be correct and can be used in this Tire Calculator. >> _http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1_ >> (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1) >> >> >> 185/80 15 is as close as you can get >> the original fitment tires actually had an aspect ratio of 82 and >> diameter was 26.94 >> >> Cheers, >> Jack Mc >> **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. >> (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=eml >> cntusyelp00000003 >> ) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 70tr6 at mindspring.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mgc4 at cdc.gov From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Feb 17 15:09:43 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:09:43 GMT Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? Message-ID: Jim---I've used the "bronze" valve guides for almost 20 years. (I put the second set in about 5 years ago, when doing a valve grind) Absolutely no problems with these, OR the unleaded gas, which came to my area about the same time. 20 years, in my case, equals about 150,000 miles. I don't understand why any pressed-in guides would "fall out". They should begin as an interference fit. I'm not absolutely sure about this, but I think that these guides should tighten up, rather than loosen up, when things got hot. Metalurgists in this crowd may want to add something to this. Dick -----Original Message----- From: jim hearn Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 1:53 PM To: 'TR6' Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? I thought I had seen on some posts that bronze valve guides were the way to go with a TR6 so now that I need to do a complete valve job, I bought bronze guides to do it. When I took it to the machine shop (that has a good rep for doing British stuff), I was told that they had quit putting in bronze guides due to the extra heat in the combustion chamber caused by the new fuel with no lead. They said that early on when they were using bronze guides with the new fuel, due to dissimilar expansion rates for the different metals (head and guides), guides were loosing up and falling out. Has anyone heard this, experienced this, or have any information on this. Is anyone running bronze guides successfully? Mine is a stock motor but if this is true, there doesn't seem to be enough good points for the bronze to risk the calamity. Any thoughts? Jim [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Feb 17 15:23:21 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:23:21 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? In-Reply-To: <000001c9914a$3a03ba20$b1191718@computer> References: <000001c9914a$3a03ba20$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA92B0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Jim, this is news to me. There are some that will say that for a street car the steel guides are fine and that the bronze guides are only needed for racing applications. I fitted Richards bronze guides along with his teflon seals to replace the bronze guides that had been installed 25 years ago. I think there is a bit more slop in the bronze guides due to expansion properties and the seals help reduce any tendency for oil to get past the valves. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim hearn Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 4:54 PM To: 'TR6' Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? I thought I had seen on some posts that bronze valve guides were the way to go with a TR6 so now that I need to do a complete valve job, I bought bronze guides to do it. When I took it to the machine shop (that has a good rep for doing British stuff), I was told that they had quit putting in bronze guides due to the extra heat in the combustion chamber caused by the new fuel with no lead. They said that early on when they were using bronze guides with the new fuel, due to dissimilar expansion rates for the different metals (head and guides), guides were loosing up and falling out. Has anyone heard this, experienced this, or have any information on this. Is anyone running bronze guides successfully? Mine is a stock motor but if this is true, there doesn't seem to be enough good points for the bronze to risk the calamity. Any thoughts? Jim From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Feb 17 15:50:04 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 17:50:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: References: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> Message-ID: <499B3F1C.5000202@maine.rr.com> Thanks, Ashford. Great input! Just what I was looking for. I've installed Richard's springs as well (no spacers) and have been wondering how to proceed, if I invested in 16" Panasports... The 225/60/16 is the correct OD but section width (9.3") must be an issue. Can I assume (hate that word) running smaller OD tires in front but stock/near-stock OD tires in the rear will preserve speedo accuracy? Dave Ashford Little wrote: > I am running 215/60/16 on a set of Panasport wheels. 225/60/16 will > not fit without some major issues. Rolling the fenders may help. My > car also has the Goodparts springs which lower it about an inch. I > have tweaked the front left fender lip on the rare occasion which > usually involves a big dip and while I'm turning. I think some folks > are running staggered sizes with 215/60/16 in the rear, but 215/55 or > 50 in the front and not had problems. In my case, the occasional dip > hasn't bothered me enough to change. > > Ashford Little > '70 TR6 > > > > > > > On Feb 17, 2009, at 4:14 PM, Dave wrote: > >> My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how >> many people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had >> suspension rubbing issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like >> 225-60R16's will work but I'd hate to but them then find there are >> major rubbing issues. My car is lowered an inch in front and about >> the same in back.... >> >> Dave >> >> ---- Pimento73 at aol.com wrote: >> >>> >>> >>> In a message dated 2/17/2009 11:50:23 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, >>> rpeglow at optonline.net writes: >>> >>> once read (on the LIST?) that a 185SR15 is a 185/80-15. >>> That seems to be correct and can be used in this Tire Calculator. >>> _http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1_ >>> (http://www.discounttire.com/dtcs/infoTireMath.dos#row1) >>> >>> >>> 185/80 15 is as close as you can get >>> the original fitment tires actually had an aspect ratio of 82 and >>> diameter >>> was 26.94 >>> >>> Cheers, >>> Jack Mc >>> **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. >>> (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003 >>> ) >> >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> You are subscribed as 70tr6 at mindspring.com From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Feb 17 16:24:21 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:24:21 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] OD Trans/Tire sizes Message-ID: <396243.81909.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Good show Vance. Put me down as preferring the A type OD over the J type though two of my friends have the 5 speed conversions and the smoothness and reduced noise from a modern transmission is incredible. It would be a toss up over which one I would choose if I didn't already have the OD trans. Also the Nurburgring video was fantastic. I used to have 205/55/16s on my car but decided I needed a little more comfortable ride (old guy syndrome) so I swapped them out for Dunlop Signature 205/65/16s so that the rolling diameter would be similar to that of the original tire to get a more accurate speedometer reading and to decrease the 75 to 80 MPH RPMs by about 150 or so. However I have had problems in regard to the clearance on the front tires when they are turned to the full lock position as I back from my driveway and the springs compress. It has taken several chunks out of the edge of my tire and caused a slight bent spot in the center of the fender lip. YMMV Mike Lunsford From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Feb 17 16:28:29 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:28:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] More rubber is more fasterer. Message-ID: <185966.64213.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> RML. Your comment "More rubber is more fasterer. You can quote me on that." sounds like it came from that place across the street and not from MIT. Mike Lunsford From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 17 16:29:04 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:29:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] OD Trans/Tire sizes In-Reply-To: <396243.81909.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <396243.81909.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 17 Feb 2009, michael lunsford wrote: > Good show Vance. Put me down as preferring the A type OD over the J type > though two of my friends have the 5 speed conversions and the smoothness and > reduced noise from a modern transmission is incredible. It would be a toss up > over which one I would choose if I didn't already have the OD trans. Also the > Nurburgring video was fantastic. > > I used to have 205/55/16s on my car but decided I needed a little more > comfortable ride (old guy syndrome) so I swapped them out for Dunlop Signature > 205/65/16s so that the rolling diameter would be similar to that of the > original tire to get a more accurate speedometer reading and to decrease the > 75 to 80 MPH RPMs by about 150 or so. However I have had problems in regard > to the clearance on the front tires when they are turned to the full lock > position as I back from my driveway and the springs compress. It has taken > several chunks out of the edge of my tire and caused a slight bent spot in the > center of the fender lip. YMMV Now you know where to "roll" the fender lip. Think of it as a WIN! :-) > Mike Lunsford rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Feb 17 16:30:54 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 15:30:54 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> References: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6C45@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Dave: Somebody can correct me on the following, but of course I will call them a liar =:-o I *THINK* (A painful process at my age) that the issue is the section width, not the size of the wheel. So it is the 225 mm width that risks rubbing. I am running 205 mm width on 15" wheels, and they have had no problems. 225 tires are almost a full inch wider, and add ~3/8" to 1/2" to each side of the tire. I suppose you could add, say, 10 mm of offset to the front wheels and then go to a 225 mm section width with no problems. Dunno how hard it would be to find wheels with the additional offset. In back, additional offset might be a problem because the tires may hit the fender when the suspension is compressed. Perhaps 10 mm of additional back spacing might work in back....? Anyway, my point is that some wheels with different offset or back spacing might be what you need to make really wide tires work. A little dab of offset will be all you will want, because if you go for a lot the steering geometry and handling may be adversely impacted. Anybody running wheels with non-standard offset and really wide tires? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 1:15 PM To: lang at isis.mit.edu; Pimento73 at aol.com; wensley_tr at comcast.net; rpeglow at optonline.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Wheels My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how many people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had suspension rubbing issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like 225-60R16's will work but I'd hate to but them then find there are major rubbing issues. My car is lowered an inch in front and about the same in back.... Dave From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Feb 17 16:31:26 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:31:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] More rubber is more fasterer. In-Reply-To: <185966.64213.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <185966.64213.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 17 Feb 2009, michael lunsford wrote: > RML. > > Your comment "More rubber is more fasterer. You can quote me on that." > sounds like it came from that place across the street and not from MIT. They're not across the street. They are "up the river". Assuming, of course, that you mean the "liberal arts college". :-) I also say "there's nothing like a triple comparative. Unless it's a triple superlative, e.g. most fastest". > Mike Lunsford Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lee at automate-it.com Tue Feb 17 17:17:14 2009 From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 18:17:14 -0600 (CST) Subject: [6pack] Transmission Issues - Update and Overdrive?? In-Reply-To: <499A3D55.7080901@dfn.com> References: <3829.216.153.170.30.1234839802.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> <499A3D55.7080901@dfn.com> Message-ID: <1362.216.153.170.30.1234916234.squirrel@www.automate-it.com> >> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oeiVEwhy4SQ > > As Christian Marx will tell you, this is not racing, per se, so the > passing is not while racing. The Nordschliefe portion of the > Nurburgring circuit is opened to the public a few days a year... Yep, you can drive a lap for 21 Euros. There's a really nice series of articles about "the ring" in the Feb. issue of Road & Track. They note that you can "mix it up with motorcycles, tour buses, sports cars, or one of the BMW M5 'Ring Taxis' for hire". It's on my top 5 unlikely bucket list (things I want to but will probably never get to). - Lee From trmarty at hotmail.com Tue Feb 17 18:27:42 2009 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 20:27:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? In-Reply-To: <000001c9914a$3a03ba20$b1191718@computer> References: <000001c9914a$3a03ba20$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: Jim, I've ran them for years without them working loose. I do know they need to get the clearances correct though. I've worked on two engines where the shop did not allow for enough clearance which resulted in valve stem binding. Marty > From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:53:53 -0800 > Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? > > I thought I had seen on some posts that bronze valve guides were the way to > go with a TR6 so now that I need to do a complete valve job, I bought bronze > guides to do it. When I took it to the machine shop (that has a good rep > for doing British stuff), I was told that they had quit putting in bronze > guides due to the extra heat in the combustion chamber caused by the new > fuel with no lead. They said that early on when they were using bronze > guides with the new fuel, due to dissimilar expansion rates for the > different metals (head and guides), guides were loosing up and falling out. > Has anyone heard this, experienced this, or have any information on this. > Is anyone running bronze guides successfully? Mine is a stock motor but if > this is true, there doesn't seem to be enough good points for the bronze to > risk the calamity. Any thoughts? Jim > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go. http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/ From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Tue Feb 17 21:18:54 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 23:18:54 EST Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? Message-ID: Jim, Dick and team, I have used bronze guides in all my rebuilds and I use them in my race car (63 TR 4) and I promise it gets used about as hard as an engine can be used. I am just rebuilding it now for the new season and the bronze guides were the only thing that didn't need replacing. Don't know where the machinist got his information but it doesn't ring true to me. Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Tue Feb 17 23:50:10 2009 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 22:50:10 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000101c99195$25202cb0$b1191718@computer> Thanks for all of the comments. As always, they are extremely helpful. I talked with Carl (Stritz Machine in Oakland, CA). He couldn't have been more helpful. Apparently, going back to the early years of unleaded gas, automotive machine shops were having problems with bronze guides loosening up and sometimes dropping out. According to Carl, it is mostly due to the bronze alloy and the gasoline changing that has caused this problem not to have occurred for quite a while. Looks like the shop I am dealing with had a very bad time way back. I got my bronze guides from TRF and I believe that they are some of Richard Good's. They look good and as always, Richard did a nice job. I will be putting them in. Thanks again, Jim -----Original Message----- From: marty sukey [mailto:trmarty at hotmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, February 17, 2009 5:28 PM To: jim hearn; 6 Digest Subject: RE: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? Jim, I've ran them for years without them working loose. I do know they need to get the clearances correct though. I've worked on two engines where the shop did not allow for enough clearance which resulted in valve stem binding. Marty > From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Tue, 17 Feb 2009 13:53:53 -0800 > Subject: [6pack] Bronze valve guides? > > I thought I had seen on some posts that bronze valve guides were the way to > go with a TR6 so now that I need to do a complete valve job, I bought bronze > guides to do it. When I took it to the machine shop (that has a good rep > for doing British stuff), I was told that they had quit putting in bronze > guides due to the extra heat in the combustion chamber caused by the new > fuel with no lead. They said that early on when they were using bronze > guides with the new fuel, due to dissimilar expansion rates for the > different metals (head and guides), guides were loosing up and falling out. > Has anyone heard this, experienced this, or have any information on this. > Is anyone running bronze guides successfully? Mine is a stock motor but if > this is true, there doesn't seem to be enough good points for the bronze to > risk the calamity. Any thoughts? Jim > > [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com _____ See how Windows Mobile brings your life together-at home, work, or on the go. See Now From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Feb 18 00:56:38 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 07:56:38 GMT Subject: [6pack] Resale value of a TR6 with overdrive Message-ID: Vance, and those who may be interested in further comparing the OD tranny and the 5 speed conversion: If my car would've had the original OD when bought new, I doubt that I would've thought about the 5 speed conversion. (My story on this is documented in the 6PACK Newsletter in Vol.XX11, Issue 3, Fall 2004) The short story is that the original tranny had seen the clock go around twice, and was mighty tired. The idea of replacing it wih a 5 speed was more appealing. No more Slave Cylinder, fork/pin, shaft and rods to deal with. Just a neat hydraulic t/o bearing, operated with a braided line straight from the Master Cylinder. Couldn't be simpler. And the tall 5th gear was just what I wanted! Vance and I make a game out of trying to keep each other honest. I enjoy this! I'm sure he does too. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 4:32 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Resale value of a TR6 with overdrive Folks: Well, there you have it. As usual, I was a tad off. This was for cars in excellent condition, and these prices would be retail at a LBC used car dealer. Sigh. I was surprised by how much value gets added by upgrading the tranny, too. I said +$1,000 and Stan says at the retail level it adds between $5,000 and $6,000(!?) Looks like the guys with the 5 speeds will get some of their money back. But the J type still wins for resale. Neener, neener, neener! But I must (grudgingly, reluctantly, and only under duress) admit that the 5 speed adds some value. Dick Taylor, where are you? I'M SORRY!!!!!! I suspect that this will not end the debate however. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast ________________________________ From: British Auto Works [mailto:email at britishautoworks.com] Sent: Monday, February 16, 2009 3:57 PM To: Navarrette, Vance Subject: RE: Resale value of a TR6 with overdrive Vance, In my opinion the least valuable car would be the stock 4 speed. Depending on the marketing on the other two cars you could go a few directions, driving vs stock, racing etc. The most valuable car would be J type overdrive and then the 5 speed. Stock 4 speed $10-12K 5 Speed $14-15k J type $15-18K Assuming these cars would be sold side by side by side. The 5 speeds are a bit more popular in the racing circuit however. I hope this helps. Stan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From patton at suscom-maine.net Wed Feb 18 01:11:52 2009 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 03:11:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> References: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> Message-ID: <499BC2C8.3080706@suscom-maine.net> Hi Dave, I'm running 16" Panasports with 205-55R16's and no rubbing. The car is lowered an inch front and back. There was a clearance issue with the ball joint to the rim that was fixed by trimming the ball joint bolt. The tires are Cooper Zeon 2XS that I would not try again as the tread wear is very rapid and need replacement at under 10K miles. Rick Patton pattonmachine.com Brunswick, Maine 75 TR6sci 74 TVR 2500M project Dave wrote: > My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how many people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had suspension rubbing issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like 225-60R16's will work but I'd hate to but them then find there are major rubbing issues. My car is lowered an inch in front and about the same in back.... > > Dave From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Feb 18 08:22:09 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 07:22:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Gelding the stallion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DEF6E12@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Dick said: > The idea of replacing it with a 5 speed was more appealing. No more Slave Cylinder, fork/pin, shaft and rods to > deal with. Just a neat hydraulic t/o bearing, operated with a braided line straight from the Master Cylinder. > Couldn't be simpler. And the tall 5th gear was just what I wanted! I don't get it. Why buy a British classic then? I wanted a car from the time when men were men, and women were bra-less. Crunching gears, pools of oil, and a trail of parts behind me is what makes me feel MANLY. Making a British car reliable is like gelding a stallion (I am typing this with my legs crossed). It is just WRONG! Better sacrifice a chipmunk to the prince of darkness to get the cosmic forces of good and evil realigned, my friend. A reliable Triumph is a perversion of nature, and I hate to think what evils will befall you unless you set it right. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From dncullig at us.ibm.com Wed Feb 18 08:22:46 2009 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 10:22:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion Message-ID: Bob Lang wrote: >More rubber is more fasterer. >You can quote me on that. I think perhaps Bob is channelling the late, great Mark Donahue who came to the same conclusion many years ago. See "The Unfair Advantage" - some of Mark's success was due to his use of wider tires. Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From lfm614 at aol.com Wed Feb 18 08:31:13 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:31:13 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Gelding the stallion Message-ID: <1641662391-1234970998-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1280589190-@bxe252.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> ROTFLMAO!!!! What he said! Preach on brother Vance, protector of all things unreliably rusty and temperamental! Lou 72 Pimento WITH A-type OD. (Yes THREE extra gears) ------Original Message------ From: Navarrette, Vance Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: Sally or Dick Taylor To: TR-6 list Sent: Feb 18, 2009 9:22 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Gelding the stallion Dick said: > The idea of replacing it with a 5 speed was more appealing. No more Slave Cylinder, fork/pin, shaft and rods to > deal with. Just a neat hydraulic t/o bearing, operated with a braided line straight from the Master Cylinder. > Couldn't be simpler. And the tall 5th gear was just what I wanted! I don't get it. Why buy a British classic then? I wanted a car from the time when men were men, and women were bra-less. Crunching gears, pools of oil, and a trail of parts behind me is what makes me feel MANLY. Making a British car reliable is like gelding a stallion (I am typing this with my legs crossed). It is just WRONG! Better sacrifice a chipmunk to the prince of darkness to get the cosmic forces of good and evil realigned, my friend. A reliable Triumph is a perversion of nature, and I hate to think what evils will befall you unless you set it right. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From forzion at maine.rr.com Wed Feb 18 08:36:21 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 15:36:21 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Yet another tire discussion In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090218153621.1PFKZ.50357.root@hrndva-web17-z02> Along with flared fenders.... ---- Dennis N Culligan wrote: > Bob Lang wrote: > >More rubber is more fasterer. > >You can quote me on that. > > I think perhaps Bob is channelling the late, great > Mark Donahue who came to the same conclusion many > years ago. See "The Unfair Advantage" - some of > Mark's success was due to his use of wider tires. > > Dennis Culligan / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Wed Feb 18 10:41:34 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 09:41:34 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] ODs, 5 speeds and wacky people Message-ID: <660553.40437.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I love this list!! Probably because most of the participants share my need for help from a mental health professional: <<>>>>> Vance From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Feb 18 13:51:18 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:51:18 GMT Subject: [6pack] Gelding the stallion Message-ID: Yeah, right. Like installing a 5 speed suddenly left one with nothing else to work on! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 7:22 AM To: Sally or Dick Taylor, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Gelding the stallion Dick said: > The idea of replacing it with a 5 speed was more appealing. No more Slave Cylinder, fork/pin, shaft and rods to > deal with. Just a neat hydraulic t/o bearing, operated with a braided line straight from the Master Cylinder. > Couldn't be simpler. And the tall 5th gear was just what I wanted! I don't get it. Why buy a British classic then? I wanted a car from the time when men were men, and women were bra-less. Crunching gears, pools of oil, and a trail of parts behind me is what makes me feel MANLY. Making a British car reliable is like gelding a stallion (I am typing this with my legs crossed). It is just WRONG! Better sacrifice a chipmunk to the prince of darkness to get the cosmic forces of good and evil realigned, my friend. A reliable Triumph is a perversion of nature, and I hate to think what evils will befall you unless you set it right. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From trglory at verizon.net Wed Feb 18 14:54:53 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 16:54:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Still more on tires Message-ID: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Soooooo.. After reading all the posts regarding tires I went out today to take a real hard look at the tires on my TR6. My Michelin redlines and tubes look brand new but are now about 25 years old. All the advice regarding "old" tire dry rot worries me so I concluded that baby needs some new shoes before the next driving season starts. The original plan was to also pop for a set of 16 inch Panasports, but after checking the balance of my 401k fund (I'm retired) I will be putting the new rubber on the OEM wheels. And I better do it soon before the Wall Street sharks gobble up what's left. Then it's off to Wal-Mart to apply for a job as a greeter. It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. Thanks Joe From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Feb 18 15:28:22 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 17:28:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: <8CB602F577A7856-10C4-E8E@FWM-D38.sysops.aol.com> Hi Joe, I actually compiled a survey awhile back on what people were using for tires.? Then a couple years later I tried to coerce another survey from the list but this time I received very few responses, certainly not enough to compile into a representative list.? I did place the results from the original survey on the triumphowners.com web site listing of my car.? If you go to the site scroll down to the wheel survey near the bottom.? There are tire results there as well. triumphowners.com/108 I had originally purchased some Yokohama Avid tires in 205/65/15 and was satisfied with their performance but they wore out very quickly.? This last time I purchased some Falken Tires ZIEX ZE-912 205/65R15 from discount tire online.? Bob Danielson gave me the information that Grassroots Motorsports reviewed them and had good things to say about them.? Other sources on the web had mostly positive things to say about them including that they would last longer than 10k miles.? I have not put many miles on them at this point but have nothing bad to say about them so far. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Jos Laurito To: 6Pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumphs List Sent: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 4:54 pm Subject: [6pack] Still more on tires Soooooo.. It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. Thanks Joe From grego at sandesco.com Wed Feb 18 15:52:32 2009 From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 14:52:32 -0800 Subject: [6pack] ODs, 5 speeds and wacky people Message-ID: <20090218145232.hzavq4jlxc40g0w4@webmail.dsl-only.net> > << forces of good and evil realigned, my friend. A reliable Triumph is a > perversion of nature, and I hate to think what evils will befall you unless > you set it right. >>>>> I have extra chipmunks and will gladly sacrifice one to the POD in your name. Just let me know who to give credit to! BTW: I wonder how the POD likes his chipmunks and do we get credit for squirrels? -grego (aka ChipMonk) located next door to the old British Parts Northwest junk yard From DLylis at aol.com Wed Feb 18 16:32:23 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 18:32:23 EST Subject: [6pack] Gelding the stallion Message-ID: In a message dated 2/18/2009 10:23:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: I wanted a car from the time when men were men, and women were bra-less. Crunching gears, pools of oil, and a trail of parts behind me is what makes me feel MANLY. Making a British car reliable is like gelding a stallion (I am typing this with my legs crossed). It is just WRONG! I will have braless woman and a reliable Triumph. (To go , please) Sorry. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Feb 18 18:02:04 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:02:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <756344257.3077891235000400008.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> References: <756344257.3077891235000400008.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost> Message-ID: <8CB6044D0828C18-1130-13C8@WEBMAIL-DC07.sysops.aol.com> I bought mine through discounttiredirect.com for I think it was $61 each, with free shipping plus $50 at my local tire place to mount and balance them for a total price of $294 installed.? Currently the price is $63, and they still have free shipping as of this email.? Falken Ziex ZE-912? 205/65R-15 94H BLK mileage warranty is 65,000 Miles? And they also have a price match guarantee if you find it lower. NFI, etc, etc. Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: thenicholls at verizon.net To: Ted Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 6:39 pm Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Still more on tires In my search, I ended up with something different:? ? Goodyear Comfortread? radial tires P205/70R15? ? $105 per tire installed. For $420, it made the most difference in my ride and handling for anything I have done to a stock TR6. No rubbing issues at all on stock rims. Replaced red lines.? ? Love them,? ? Craig H. Nicholls? 1972 Triumph TR6? Vienna, A? ? From wensley_tr at comcast.net Wed Feb 18 19:53:36 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 21:53:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gelding the stallion In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <00be01c9923d$42e257c0$c8a70740$@net> Well it may be Wrong.....BUT it's still funny Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, February 18, 2009 6:32 PM To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; tr6taylor at webtv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Gelding the stallion In a message dated 2/18/2009 10:23:01 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: I wanted a car from the time when men were men, and women were bra-less. Crunching gears, pools of oil, and a trail of parts behind me is what makes me feel MANLY. Making a British car reliable is like gelding a stallion (I am typing this with my legs crossed). It is just WRONG! I will have braless woman and a reliable Triumph. (To go , please) Sorry. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From shawn.loseke at gmail.com Wed Feb 18 20:16:07 2009 From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:16:07 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> References: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0902181916m6f05e546ub2266b331998bd9d@mail.gmail.com> I just happened to run a search for 205/70R15s on Tire Rack this afternoon and found more than 30 choices in that size. Shawn On Wed, Feb 18, 2009 at 2:54 PM, Jos Laurito wrote: > Soooooo.. After reading all the posts regarding tires I went out today to > take a real hard look at the tires on my TR6. My Michelin redlines and > tubes > look brand new but are now about 25 years old. All the advice regarding > "old" tire dry rot worries me so I concluded that baby needs some new shoes > before the next driving season starts. > > The original plan was to also pop for a set of 16 inch Panasports, but > after > checking the balance of my 401k fund (I'm retired) I will be putting the > new > rubber on the OEM wheels. And I better do it soon before the Wall Street > sharks gobble up what's left. Then it's off to Wal-Mart to apply for a job > as a greeter. > > It looks like 215/70-15 is the closest available size to the original > diameter, but I think I detect a preference for 205/70-15 from the listers. > Looking around on the web, I see that there is not a whole lot to choose > from in those sizes (but nothing to choose from in the almost-stock size). > For the folks that are using tires that are currently available (and who > actually like them), what are your recommendations? My car is bone stock. > > Thanks > > Joe > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Feb 18 20:38:05 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Wed, 18 Feb 2009 20:38:05 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Wheels In-Reply-To: <499BC2C8.3080706@suscom-maine.net> References: <20090217211444.18WSG.43685.root@hrndva-web01-z01> <499BC2C8.3080706@suscom-maine.net> Message-ID: <6E99D5FA-08C6-4711-AF24-B34AF0EB0A28@comcast.net> I'm running the same size tires as Rick with 10 inch front springs and 11 inch rear springs with no spacers, but I had some rubbing issues on the fronts until I installed a rear anti sway bar (Goodparts: set at second hole from the back). Prior to that I had a clearance issue also with the rim that was fixed by something stripping off the lead weights used to balance the wheel! My left front tire got into the fender a bit too but both those problems went away after installing the rear anti sway bar. Bud 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Feb 18, 2009, at 1:11 AM, Rick Patton wrote: > Hi Dave, > > I'm running 16" Panasports with 205-55R16's and no rubbing. The car > is lowered an inch front and back. There was a clearance issue with > the ball joint to the rim that was fixed by trimming the ball joint > bolt. The tires are Cooper Zeon 2XS that I would not try again as > the tread wear is very rapid and need replacement at under 10K miles. > > Rick Patton > pattonmachine.com > Brunswick, Maine > 75 TR6sci > 74 TVR 2500M project > > Dave wrote: >> My original question was relating to 16" tires. I was wondering how >> many people are using the 16" Panasports and if anyone had >> suspension rubbing issues with sizes they had chosen. It looks like >> 225-60R16's will work but I'd hate to but them then find there are >> major rubbing issues. My car is lowered an inch in front and about >> the same in back.... >> Dave > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Thu Feb 19 09:32:07 2009 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 08:32:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <6B365200383D49458CCC3C395C7CFE9D@newbox> Message-ID: <612830.66041.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Joe:If you want the EXACT original tire size (185R15) you need to get a tire sized 185/80x15. Diamond Back tires has a tire in that size with redlines available.http://www.widewhitewalltires.com/2008Catalog/WebCatalog2_lo.pdfIt's T-rated tire, but it'll be much better than the old Michelins ever were.Jim From trglory at verizon.net Thu Feb 19 09:37:48 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Jos Laurito) Date: Thu, 19 Feb 2009 11:37:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Still more on tires In-Reply-To: <185196.53077.qm@web59702.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <049512347EBE4D89AC146EF2E9B5F0E2@newbox> Thanks to all for the great feedback. The TR owners' satisfaction index seems to be highest with Yokohama AVID 205/70-15 tires, so that's where I'll be going. But wait.....will it be the AVID Touring, Touring-S, T4 or TRZ? Hmmmmmmm. Joe From DLylis at aol.com Fri Feb 20 06:35:45 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:35:45 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] Interesting times at the DMV Message-ID: When I brought my TR6 paperwork to the DMV with the mileage certified by the sheriffs deputy the lady behind the counter decided it was absurd that such an old car had that mileage and changed the certification to unknown. Their defense to contesting these things is a pile of paperwork and delays in getting plates, so I bowed graciously while secretly extending my middle finger, and moved on. At least it made ME feel a little better for a moment or two. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You can't always choose whom you love, but you can choose how to find them. Start with AOL Personals. (http://personals.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntuslove00000002) From dramsey11 at alltel.net Fri Feb 20 07:38:03 2009 From: dramsey11 at alltel.net (dramsey11 at alltel.net) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 8:38:03 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090220083803.AUWYH.1606249.root@ispmxfep14-z01> I marvel at your self control. I'm afraid I might have gone over the counter. That really is crazy. In all the states I've lived you have to provide a signature next to the odometer statement because, ultimately, mileage is whatever you, the owner, attests that is. Under penalty of fraud. Darrell. 71 TR6. 77,000 *original* miles. ---- DLylis at aol.com wrote: > When I brought my TR6 paperwork to the DMV with the mileage certified by the > sheriffs deputy the lady behind the counter decided it was absurd that such > an old car had that mileage and changed the certification to unknown. > Their defense to contesting these things is a pile of paperwork and delays > in getting plates, so I bowed graciously while secretly extending my middle > finger, and moved on. At least it made ME feel a little better for a moment or > two. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO From slbridge at hotmail.com Fri Feb 20 07:55:40 2009 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 14:55:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: <20090220083803.AUWYH.1606249.root@ispmxfep14-z01> References: <20090220083803.AUWYH.1606249.root@ispmxfep14-z01> Message-ID: from South Dakota... I bought a 1959 Sprite for $200. That was the asking price and I nearly ripped a hole in my pocket reaching for the cash. At the courthouse, I presented the title and bill of sale. The gal got out a CPI book, and knowing where she was going, I said:" You won't need that, it's not for sale". "Oh, I don't want to buy it, I have to see if you paid enough and then charge you sales tax on what it should have sold for". I replied that the bill of sale was a legal document and if she thought the previous owner and I were in collusion, she should call the deputy and have me arrested, otherwise, she had to recognize it. "I'll have to ask" she said and went to the rear office. She came back and said:" Just this once" > Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:38:03 -0600 > From: dramsey11 at alltel.net > To: 6pack at autox.team.net; DLylis at aol.com > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Interesting times at the DMV > > I marvel at your self control. I'm afraid I might have gone over the counter. That really is crazy. In all the states I've lived you have to provide a signature next to the odometer statement because, ultimately, mileage is whatever you, the owner, attests that is. Under penalty of fraud. > > Darrell. 71 TR6. 77,000 *original* miles. > > ---- DLylis at aol.com wrote: >> When I brought my TR6 paperwork to the DMV with the mileage certified by the >> sheriffs deputy the lady behind the counter decided it was absurd that such >> an old car had that mileage and changed the certification to unknown. >> Their defense to contesting these things is a pile of paperwork and delays >> in getting plates, so I bowed graciously while secretly extending my middle >> finger, and moved on. At least it made ME feel a little better for a moment or >> two. >> >> David Lylis >> 69 TR6 CC26160L >> 60 TR3A TS74461LO > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as slbridge at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live: Keep your life in sync. http://windowslive.com/explore?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_t1_allup_explore_022009 From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Fri Feb 20 08:54:30 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 07:54:30 -0800 Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Measurement Needed Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170E0C@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> For what it's worth to anyone else, I calculated what appears to be the correct height of the rubber bushings for my J-Type overdrive mounting bracket. Side conversations with Bob Lang and Berry Price provoked a little thinking on my part which got me headed down the right path. I also had help from Chuck at The Roadster Factory. Chuck measured the height of the gearbox mount (TRF part number 104086) for me because sometime prior to my owning the car, someone did some very strange things with my gearbox mounting bracket which kept me from getting an accurate measurement of the original height of that set up. Basically, I took measurements using my old gearbox extension (tail piece) and drive shaft and compared these to the configuration of the new overdrive set up to determine that the height of the rubber bushing for the overdrive mounting plate is the same as the height of the (1 =") gearbox mounting bracket that is used with the 4 speed gearbox. How simple was that? In a way it seems it should have been a foregone conclusion, but not being real mechanically inclined and without the original mounting bracket I didn't know. Now, if any of you later determine that I messed up my measurements and this is not correct after all, I would appreciate the feedback. Thanks again everybody. Mike Corvallis, OR From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Feb 20 09:21:21 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 08:21:21 -0800 Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Measurement Needed In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170E0C@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170E0C@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DF683A6@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mike: If you have a digital camera, could you post some pictures of how your mount turns out? Might be useful for someone else in the future.... Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 7:55 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Measurement Needed Basically, I took measurements using my old gearbox extension (tail piece) and drive shaft and compared these to the configuration of the new overdrive set up to determine that the height of the rubber bushing for the overdrive mounting plate is the same as the height of the (1 =") gearbox mounting bracket that is used with the 4 speed gearbox. How simple was that? In a way it seems it should have been a foregone conclusion, but not being real mechanically inclined and without the original mounting bracket I didn't know. Now, if any of you later determine that I messed up my measurements and this is not correct after all, I would appreciate the feedback. Thanks again everybody. Mike Corvallis, OR From TR6UO at aol.com Fri Feb 20 10:32:15 2009 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 12:32:15 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] Interesting times at the DMV Message-ID: Reminds me of when I first registered my '72 TR6 in California. I found and purchased it in the state of Washington and the paperwork identified the serial number as ending in "L 0" or "L" "Zero". I explained to the DMV lady that that was a misprint and showed her on the car where it was actually an "O" and that it stood for "Overdrive". She wouldn't hear of it. The paperwork said it was a "Zero" and if she changed it now it would mess up the system". I said "Too late". To this day it reads "0" (Zero) on the reg and title. Steve '72 L Zero **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Fri Feb 20 10:50:33 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Fri, 20 Feb 2009 10:50:33 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Interesting times at the DMV In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Wanna hear a horror story about the DMV, NOT LBC? My mother- and father-in-law gave (as in free) my 17 year old daughter a '93 Mercury Cougar XR7. Landau top, chrome rocker panels, a real pimp-mobile. Ever try to register a free car? Since in-laws last name is different, we actually were accused of fraud! There happened to be a uniformed highway patrolman in the DMV at the time, and thankfully wife (who never throws away ANYTHING) had her old military ID from when she was a kid with her maiden name on it. Highway patrolman 'splained to the clerk that it was OK, and he would take responsibility if anything went wrong.... Kevin CC82183U (Steve, does the U stand for Underdrive?) L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR6UO at aol.com Sent: Friday, February 20, 2009 10:32 AM To: slbridge at hotmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Interesting times at the DMV Reminds me of when I first registered my '72 TR6 in California. I found and purchased it in the state of Washington and the paperwork identified the serial number as ending in "L 0" or "L" "Zero". I explained to the DMV lady that that was a misprint and showed her on the car where it was actually an "O" and that it stood for "Overdrive". She wouldn't hear of it. The paperwork said it was a "Zero" and if she changed it now it would mess up the system". I said "Too late". To this day it reads "0" (Zero) on the reg and title. Steve '72 L Zero **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusye lp00000003) 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From lindquistse at charter.net Sun Feb 22 10:20:55 2009 From: lindquistse at charter.net (Steve Lindquist) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 12:20:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 now running Message-ID: <27ED212189974CBEB28467F64BF4F594@computerroom> In October of 2008 I queried the list about my TR250, which sat in the garage, wouldn't start, and I smelled gas. We had driven the car about 300 miles one weekend in mid September and parked it and about two weeks later it wouldn't start. I received a ton of great advice from the list and this is what transpired: The gas smell: This turned out to be unrelated to the starting issue. The fuel line from the tank to the filter has two flexible hose segments that I presume allow for flex of the frame to keep from stressing the fuel lines. Well, the rear connection was weeping gas sufficiently to provide an olfactory experience but no visible drips. I drained the tank, replaced both pieces of hose, and gas smell went away. So, simultaneous bad things do happen, confusing the problem solving. The starting issue: I replaced points, rotor, plugs, wires, capacitor, coil. I verified fuel flow. I would get spark, as evidenced by timing light or jumping a plug or coil wire to ground. I tested my timing light on my Subaru, because I wasn't sure it was working correctly. There I got amazing evidence off just how wimpy my spark was relative to a modern engine. By now the gas in the tank was pretty stale, so once again upon advice from the list I drained the tank and put some Stabil-ized new fuel back in. The TR250 engine would almost catch. I'd drain the battery, recharge it. It got cold enough in my garage (15 F) that this was not longer fun, and I violated the scientific method of making only once change at a time. I finally replaced the mechanical points with a Pertronics electronic ignition, dropped in a new red plastic rotor from TRF, and she started right up. The engine timing was way off, but I'd been fooling with it for so long its hard to say when I had adjusted it to that position. So the bottom line of the story is that I don't really know what the problem was. Was the cap bad? Is the electronic ignition more forgiving to engine timing being out of whack? Was my $4.95 rotor dielectric strength failing under 25KV of charge? Did I run enough fuel through carbs to purge the old stale gas? Were some of the components in the electrical path marginal? Were some of the replacement parts worse than what was in there? Once I got it running, I changed the oil and put her back for her winter nap. Not much of a detective story, but I feel obligated to the list to say thanks for all the advice, and one of your suggestions might have done the trick. Or not! Steve 68 TR250 CD231L From TR250Driver at aol.com Sun Feb 22 12:40:22 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:40:22 EST Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque Message-ID: Hey Guys, How many of you torque your spark plugs to the specified 20 ft. lbs? Before today I have to admit that I never have done that. Since the age of 14 or so I have always used the grunt torque method for this task. Age has now weakened my grunt too no doubt. Today whilst installing a fresh set of Bosch Platinum Plus plugs in the TR6 I noticed a diagram on the box that showed a wrench that indicated 21 ft lbs. torque. OK so I got my Snap On out and set it at 21. Whoa, that's tight. Drop back five and punt dude before you screw it up! That's way tight for my grunt. But dang right there in the official Triumph TR6 Repair Operations Manual is a setting for 20 ft lbs. for spark plug attachment. I guess that's right? Do you suppose this is why all my Triumphs seem to have lean running decease? No way, this can't be that important. I for sure have never tightened plugs this tight. Also since I am always fooling around, I am sure that I am crushing that compression washer several times that should only be crushed once, correct? Old wives tale? Cheers, Darrell **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 12:55:12 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 14:55:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 now running In-Reply-To: <27ED212189974CBEB28467F64BF4F594@computerroom> References: <27ED212189974CBEB28467F64BF4F594@computerroom> Message-ID: IMHO only, and I profess not to be a qualified source, I would say the points weren't gapped correctly, if a petronix unit worked for you right away. Possibly the dizzy shaft has a wobble in it. Petronix is more forgiving than a set of points. From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Feb 22 12:55:29 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 19:55:29 +0000 Subject: [6pack] FW: TR250 now running Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205AEEAFC@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Resending minus Steve's original to get under the autox message size limit. -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 2:35 PM To: 'Steve Lindquist'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] TR250 now running Steve, well done. One thing we know is that there are a lot of crap ignition parts floating around, especially caps and rotors, and I believe the red rotor from TRF are the ones made by the Distributor Doctor in the UK although TRF has not stated that directly. http://www.distributordoctor.com/rotor_arms.html Even he doesn't seem to show the new red rotors but you can follow the story here: http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?s=&showtopic=16867&view=findpos t&p=113750 Do you have the TRF part number for that red rotor ?. Charles mentioned it in a recent Newsletter but gave no part number and a search of their web site has yielded nothing. Stan From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Feb 22 13:02:52 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 15:02:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: With the petronix, open up the gap on the plugs a little more than recommended. It helps keep a nice smooth run. Again, IMHO only: With the petronix, open up the gap on the plug a little more than the recommended setting. It makes the engine run a little smoother as the spark is a little hotter. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Feb 22 14:21:07 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 21:21:07 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR250 now running Message-ID: Steve---An interesting story, and no doubt you learned more about your TR in the process. Meanwhile... The "less wimpy" light produced when connecting the timing light to your Suburu may have been because of the strength of the battery, since I believe is where the brightness of the light comes from. The timing probably changed again when replacing the points with the Pertronic setup. If the points were not making and breaking, this should've showed up with an interrupted signal when using the light. Same goes if the rotor was faulty. Bad rotors (too much carbon content?) was the story that went around a year or so ago. A wobbly distributor shaft should also show up as a variation in timing. Easier to spot when the engine is actually running, I must admit! Cold weather without proper choking of the carbs could've had a lot to do with the balky starting, once you had uncovered the original culprit. If you REALLY want to find out what it was, one step at a time, re-install the original rotor, cap, etc., and test in between each exchange. That's what I'd do, but I'm a nut about these things. You'll probably find that you have a bunch of good parts that you can use for spares! Dick From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Feb 22 14:32:40 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 21:32:40 GMT Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque Message-ID: Darrell---I read years ago that "spark plugs need only be tightened so they don't fall out". I have followed this method without a problem. (Test with a running engine and a soapy water solution, if in doubt). OK, that really doesn't mean just finger tight, but more like the torque one might get from using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and a one-handed twist. It's good to be sure there's no sand has found it's way onto the plug surface in the head. I blow out the area out beforehand. Dick Dick -----Original Message----- From: TR250Driver at aol.com Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 11:40 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque Hey Guys, How many of you torque your spark plugs to the specified 20 ft. lbs? Before today I have to admit that I never have done that. Since the age of 14 or so I have always used the grunt torque method for this task. Age has now weakened my grunt too no doubt. Today whilst installing a fresh set of Bosch Platinum Plus plugs in the TR6 I noticed a diagram on the box that showed a wrench that indicated 21 ft lbs. torque. OK so I got my Snap On out and set it at 21. Whoa, that's tight. Drop back five and punt dude before you screw it up! That's way tight for my grunt. But dang right there in the official Triumph TR6 Repair Operations Manual is a setting for 20 ft lbs. for spark plug attachment. I guess that's right? Do you suppose this is why all my Triumphs seem to have lean running decease? No way, this can't be that important. I for sure have never tightened plugs this tight. Also since I am always fooling around, I am sure that I am crushing that compression washer several times that should only be crushed once, correct? Old wives tale? Cheers, Darrell **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003) 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Feb 22 15:02:52 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 16:02:52 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque References: Message-ID: <002f01c99539$edbde750$8115a8c0@ranteer.local> sand? where do you work on your car???? at the beach???? > It's good to be sure there's no sand has found it's way onto the plug > surface in the head. I blow out the area out beforehand. > > Dick From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Feb 22 16:52:37 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 18:52:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Red Rotor References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205AEEAFC@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: TRF red rotor part # is 510024. Al Salvatore www.triumphowners.com/624 > Do you have the TRF part number for that red rotor ?. Charles mentioned it > in > a recent Newsletter but gave no part number and a search of their web site > has > yielded nothing. > > Stan From lfm614 at aol.com Sun Feb 22 16:54:47 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2009 23:54:47 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Red Rotor Message-ID: <1089608856-1235346804-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1331080083-@bxe1215.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Is this the one that Jeff at Advanced Distributors is manufacturing? Lou ------Original Message------ From: Al Salvatore Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: Foster, Stan \(HP IT\) To: TR-6 list Sent: Feb 22, 2009 5:52 PM Subject: [6pack] Red Rotor TRF red rotor part # is 510024. Al Salvatore www.triumphowners.com/624 > Do you have the TRF part number for that red rotor ?. Charles mentioned it > in > a recent Newsletter but gave no part number and a search of their web site > has > yielded nothing. > > Stan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Feb 23 00:19:19 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 07:19:19 GMT Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque Message-ID: Blowing sand is what we pick up in the nooks and crannies of our cars, here is So. Cal. Desert and beaches, indeed! (We don't have much real "dirt"). Dick -----Original Message----- From: oliver Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 2:02 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Spark plug torque sand? where do you work on your car???? at the beach???? > It's good to be sure there's no sand has found it's way onto the plug > surface in the head. I blow out the area out beforehand. > > Dick 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Feb 23 00:49:03 2009 From: bratt at sasktel.net (ed) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 01:49:03 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque References: Message-ID: <000b01c9958b$32431660$6401a8c0@willhuq4x0qsgd> Dick: I am out on the Canadian prairie, a long way from the beaches, (unfortunately), and we get sand lodged in our engines, too. But here it comes from the winter "road sand mix" applications, and it gets blown about by the traffic. An interesting thing happened a few weeks ago. A power line carrying 25,000 volts shorted from an accumulation of calcium chloride which is used in the winter road sand mix. It evaporates and is attracted to the glass coated power line insulators and builds up and forms a conductive surface removing the insulating capability of the glass insulators. Then the power line shorts, and knocks out all the power in the downtown area. Suddenly drivers have to learn to think about what to do without traffic signals. Ed 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: "oliver" ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 1:19 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Spark plug torque > Blowing sand is what we pick up in the nooks and crannies of our cars, > here is So. Cal. Desert and beaches, indeed! (We don't have much real > "dirt"). > > Dick > > > -----Original Message----- > From: oliver > Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 2:02 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Spark plug torque > > sand? > > where do you work on your car???? > > at the beach???? > > >> It's good to be sure there's no sand has found it's way onto the plug >> surface in the head. I blow out the area out beforehand. >> >> Dick > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 06:17:30 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:17:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c995b9$14fe2c60$3efa8520$@net> Dick...Doesn't work on the car he tells all the girls at the beach what to do (so what are we doing wrong) Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 2:19 AM To: oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Spark plug torque Blowing sand is what we pick up in the nooks and crannies of our cars, here is So. Cal. Desert and beaches, indeed! (We don't have much real "dirt"). Dick -----Original Message----- From: oliver Sent: Sunday, February 22, 2009 2:02 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Spark plug torque sand? where do you work on your car???? at the beach???? > It's good to be sure there's no sand has found it's way onto the plug > surface in the head. I blow out the area out beforehand. > > Dick 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 08:39:29 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 08:39:29 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Spark plug torque In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I always torque my plugs to 20 ft lbs. I like not having to worry about making them tighter than they need to be or stripping the threads. One less thing that could be an issue that way. Most of my erratic running/idling issues got cured by replacing the ignition (Petronix and MSD) and the distributor (Mallory). The other idling issue (caused by a bit of fuel surging) got cured by using a fuel pressure regulator. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net On Feb 22, 2009, at 12:40 PM, TR250Driver at aol.com wrote: > Hey Guys, > How many of you torque your spark plugs to the specified 20 ft. > lbs? Before > today I have to admit that I never have done that. Since the age > of 14 or > so I have always used the grunt torque method for this task. Age > has now > weakened my grunt too no doubt. > > Today whilst installing a fresh set of Bosch Platinum Plus plugs > in the TR6 > I noticed a diagram on the box that showed a wrench that indicated > 21 ft > lbs. torque. OK so I got my Snap On out and set it at 21. Whoa, > that's tight. > Drop back five and punt dude before you screw it up! That's way > tight for my > grunt. But dang right there in the official Triumph TR6 Repair > Operations > Manual is a setting for 20 ft lbs. for spark plug attachment. I > guess that's > right? > > Do you suppose this is why all my Triumphs seem to have lean running > decease? No way, this can't be that important. I for sure have > never tightened > plugs this tight. Also since I am always fooling around, I am sure > that I am > crushing that compression washer several times that should only be > crushed once, > correct? Old wives tale? > > Cheers, > Darrell > > > > **************Need a job? Find an employment agency near you. > (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=employment_agencies&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000003 > ) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 23 10:42:38 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 09:42:38 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR250 now running In-Reply-To: <27ED212189974CBEB28467F64BF4F594@computerroom> References: <27ED212189974CBEB28467F64BF4F594@computerroom> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DF68B35@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Steve Lindquist said: > I tested my timing light on > my Subaru, because I wasn't sure it was working correctly. There I got > amazing evidence off just how wimpy my spark was relative to a modern > engine. What was the nature of this amazing evidence? Was it in the form of a cheap afro hair style? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Feb 23 11:28:49 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:28:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs Message-ID: <411284.52817.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Darrell, I seem to recall a discussion on this forum indicating that platinum plugs weren't recommended on our cars. I don't recall any of the details since old timer's disease has me by the ankle or maybe the throat. Anyone out there have a more definitive explanation of this issue? Mike Lunsford From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Feb 23 11:33:59 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 18:33:59 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs Message-ID: <2008711197-1235413958-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1618060143-@bxe1215.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Don't know how definitive but I had Bosch plats that looked good and the car always ran rough. On another owner's advise I changed out to Champions and it made a world of difference. I do have Petronix but a standard coil. But then as they say, your mileage may vary. Lou 72 Pimento ------Original Message------ From: michael lunsford Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list ReplyTo: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sent: Feb 23, 2009 12:28 PM Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs Darrell, I seem to recall a discussion on this forum indicating that platinum plugs weren't recommended on our cars. I don't recall any of the details since old timer's disease has me by the ankle or maybe the throat. Anyone out there have a more definitive explanation of this issue? Mike Lunsford _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Feb 23 11:54:56 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:54:56 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <411284.52817.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <411284.52817.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573DF68C44@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mike: I think platinums are fine, as they will give a very long life relative to conventional plugs. As for whether they are "worth it" or not, I think that is a matter of personal opinion. But they will work well and should last longer than me. =:-o Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 10:29 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs Darrell, I seem to recall a discussion on this forum indicating that platinum plugs weren't recommended on our cars. I don't recall any of the details since old timer's disease has me by the ankle or maybe the throat. Anyone out there have a more definitive explanation of this issue? Mike Lunsford From mdporter at dfn.com Mon Feb 23 11:54:52 2009 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 11:54:52 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs In-Reply-To: <2008711197-1235413958-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1618060143-@bxe1215.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <2008711197-1235413958-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1618060143-@bxe1215.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <49A2F0FC.1090108@dfn.com> lfm614 at aol.com wrote: > Don't know how definitive but I had Bosch plats that looked good and the car always ran rough. On another owner's advise I changed out to Champions and it made a world of difference. I do have Petronix but a standard coil. But then as they say, your mileage may vary. > > Guess it does. I've had Bosch platinums in mine for eight or nine years. Never pulled the first set in six years. I suppose they would have lasted longer if I hadn't been doing almost exclusively in-traffic driving with an elderly engine--they eventually became too carbon-fouled for reliable running. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Mon Feb 23 11:58:57 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 10:58:57 -0800 Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Trials and Tribulations Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170E29@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> I sent an update to everyone a couple of weeks ago about my excitement finishing the conversion of my 69 gearbox to a J-Type overdrive. Over the weekend I finished the installation. The only thing remaining is to finalize the OD wiring. Then it happened. Two little nuts in a zip-lock baggy appeared in the clutter on the work bench. These are not just any nuts. These are the trunnion blocks that go on the clutch fork pins for the Gunst throw-out bearing I installed. Go ahead Berry, laugh out loud. Well, the good news is I know how it all goes together - been there done that. I guess I know what I'll be working on the next several evenings (whimper). Mike Corvallis, OR From TR250Driver at aol.com Mon Feb 23 13:11:13 2009 From: TR250Driver at aol.com (TR250Driver at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 15:11:13 EST Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs Message-ID: In a message dated 2/23/2009 1:29:12 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com writes: I seem to recall a discussion on this forum indicating that platinum plugs weren't recommended on our cars. Mike, I have used Bosch Platinum Plus plugs for years in my Triumphs. I guess I am a sucker for Victoria British's claim that they are the "Best Spark Plug You Can Buy". Of course I recognize that @ $3.95 ea plus Vickey Brit's famous shipping and handling charge they are probably not worth it. They are listed on the Bosch website for TR6. WR7's I believe but don't rely on me for that information. They have them for TR3's and 4's, TR7's and TR8's. I also have run Champion, NKG, regular Bosch and Autolite plugs in the TR6. No real difference that I could tell. The only plug problem I can recall is the one time I put 4 original NOS, pink Lodge spark plugs in the TR4 and she bawked big time and refused to run. Go figure. Cheers, Darrell PS For no particular reason in the TR6 I also run the highest octane gas I can find (Sunoco when available) with 104 Octane Boost at least every other tank. The 104 puts a light brown coating on the plugs. **************Get a jump start on your taxes. Find a tax professional in your neighborhood today. (http://yellowpages.aol.com/search?query=Tax+Return+Preparation+%26+Filing&ncid=emlcntusyelp00000004) From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Feb 23 13:46:13 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 12:46:13 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 Message-ID: <200758.57001.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have been discussing putting AC in my 6 for the summer driving season with my buddy and fellow lister Dave Lylis. I just got this quick and easy (???) suggestion from him and thought it was worth sharing. See: if (typeof YAHOO == "undefined") { var YAHOO = {}; } YAHOO.Shortcuts = YAHOO.Shortcuts || {}; YAHOO.Shortcuts.hasSensitiveText = false; YAHOO.Shortcuts.sensitivityType = []; YAHOO.Shortcuts.doUlt = false; YAHOO.Shortcuts.location = "us"; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_id = 0; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_type = ""; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_title = "You can have A/C without the HP drain"; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_publish_date = ""; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_author = "dlylis at verizon.net"; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_url = ""; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_tags = ""; YAHOO.Shortcuts.document_language = ""; YAHOO.Shortcuts.annotationSet = { "lw_1235421768_0": { "text": "http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/attachment.php?attac hmentid=13712&d=1207188061", "extended": 0, "startchar": 128, "endchar": 229, "start": 128, "end": 229, "extendedFrom": "", "predictedCategory": "", "predictionProbability": "0", "weight": 1, "relScore": 0, "type": ["shortcuts:/us/instance/identifier/hyperlink/http"], "category": ["IDENTIFIER"], "wikiId": "", "relatedWikiIds": [], "relatedEntities": [], "showOnClick": [], "context": "http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/attachment.php?attac hmentid=13712&d=1207188061", "metaData": { "linkHref": "http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/attachment.php?attac hmentid=13712&d=1207188061", "linkProtocol": "http", "linkTarget": "_blank", "visible": "true" } } }; YAHOO.Shortcuts.headerID = "1499f9d09dca51719542c63dfc191510"; http://www.millerwelds.com/resources/communities/mboard/attachment.php?attach mentid=13712&d=1207188061 Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 with OD, TBI and NGK plugs From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Feb 23 13:52:40 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 20:52:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 In-Reply-To: <200758.57001.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <200758.57001.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205AEECF7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> That got rather mangled during transmission but I love the idea. Here's a direct link http://tinyurl.com/d4452w -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 3:46 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 I have been discussing putting AC in my 6 for the summer driving season with my buddy and fellow lister Dave Lylis. I just got this quick and easy (???) suggestion from him and thought it was worth sharing. See: From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Mon Feb 23 13:57:08 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 13:57:08 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205AEECF7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <5400CE8AAB5F477690600CD583A9FECF@nmsu.edu> My GOD! And you guys wrote on and on about "gelding the stallion"! Why not power steering and an automatic transmission while you're at it?? Although, some cupholders would be nice.... L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 1:53 PM To: 'TR6' Subject: Re: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 That got rather mangled during transmission but I love the idea. Here's a direct link http://tinyurl.com/d4452w -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 3:46 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 I have been discussing putting AC in my 6 for the summer driving season with my buddy and fellow lister Dave Lylis. I just got this quick and easy (???) suggestion from him and thought it was worth sharing. See: 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From wensley_tr at comcast.net Mon Feb 23 14:03:30 2009 From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 16:03:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 In-Reply-To: <5400CE8AAB5F477690600CD583A9FECF@nmsu.edu> References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205AEECF7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <5400CE8AAB5F477690600CD583A9FECF@nmsu.edu> Message-ID: <003001c995fa$2e81f040$8b85d0c0$@net> But Kevin maybe it would improve their TRs Craig -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin McNelis Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 3:57 PM To: 'Foster, Stan (HP IT)'; 'TR6' Subject: Re: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 My GOD! And you guys wrote on and on about "gelding the stallion"! Why not power steering and an automatic transmission while you're at it?? Although, some cupholders would be nice.... L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 1:53 PM To: 'TR6' Subject: Re: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 That got rather mangled during transmission but I love the idea. Here's a direct link http://tinyurl.com/d4452w -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 3:46 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 I have been discussing putting AC in my 6 for the summer driving season with my buddy and fellow lister Dave Lylis. I just got this quick and easy (???) suggestion from him and thought it was worth sharing. See: 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From DLylis at aol.com Mon Feb 23 17:35:02 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 19:35:02 EST Subject: [6pack] Spark Plugs Message-ID: Gee Vance, after that five speed thing I am going to want to see that statement notarized. (wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************You're invited to Hollywood's biggest party: Get Oscars updates, red carpet pics and more at Moviefone. (http://movies.aol.com/oscars-academy-awards?ncid=emlcntusmovi00000001) From motrv8d at hotmail.com Mon Feb 23 17:55:51 2009 From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 00:55:51 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205AEECF7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <200758.57001.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205AEECF7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: I believe that the factory hardtop and a luggage rack would help in this application, as well as much larger side mirrors. > From: stan.foster at hp.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Mon, 23 Feb 2009 20:52:40 +0000 > Subject: Re: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 > > That got rather mangled during transmission but I love the idea. > > Here's a direct link > > http://tinyurl.com/d4452w > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of michael lunsford > Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 3:46 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 > > I have been discussing putting AC in my 6 for the summer driving season with > my buddy and fellow lister Dave Lylis. I just got this quick and easy (???) > suggestion from him and thought it was worth sharing. See: > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as motrv8d at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_AE_Access_022009 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Feb 24 00:17:39 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 07:17:39 GMT Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 Message-ID: I don't know if I'd put in an A/C, but I'm told that the Triumph 2000 automatic tranny will bolt up to the TR6 engine. (For when my left leg quits working)! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Kevin McNelis Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 12:57 PM To: 'Foster, Stan (HP IT)', 'TR6' Subject: Re: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 My GOD! And you guys wrote on and on about "gelding the stallion"! Why not power steering and an automatic transmission while you're at it?? Although, some cupholders would be nice.... L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan (HP IT) Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 1:53 PM To: 'TR6' Subject: Re: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 That got rather mangled during transmission but I love the idea. Here's a direct link http://tinyurl.com/d4452w -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 3:46 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Air conditioning the 6 I have been discussing putting AC in my 6 for the summer driving season with my buddy and fellow lister Dave Lylis. I just got this quick and easy (???) suggestion from him and thought it was worth sharing. See: 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From brian at asmoothmove.biz Tue Feb 24 17:51:03 2009 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 18:51:03 -0600 Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Trials and Tribulations In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170E29@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <000301c996e3$22edeb50$2f01a8c0@BrianNotebook> Ohhhh can I relate to this. Only for me it was an A-type overdrive and a part that meant splitting the trans/OD case and fighting with the OD clutch springs once again. There should be a merit badge for this type of trouble. Brian Alwin 1972 TR6 CC79085 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael Sent: Monday, February 23, 2009 12:59 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] J-Type Overdrive - Trials and Tribulations I sent an update to everyone a couple of weeks ago about my excitement finishing the conversion of my 69 gearbox to a J-Type overdrive. Over the weekend I finished the installation. The only thing remaining is to finalize the OD wiring. Then it happened. Two little nuts in a zip-lock baggy appeared in the clutter on the work bench. These are not just any nuts. These are the trunnion blocks that go on the clutch fork pins for the Gunst throw-out bearing I installed. Go ahead Berry, laugh out loud. Well, the good news is I know how it all goes together - been there done that. I guess I know what I'll be working on the next several evenings (whimper). Mike Corvallis, OR 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as brian at asmoothmove.biz From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Tue Feb 24 23:22:11 2009 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Tue, 24 Feb 2009 22:22:11 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Anyone have an old TRW book to identify some valves Message-ID: <002601c99711$64f84440$b1191718@computer> In my '74 TR6 head rebuild, I am trying to identify the existing valves to see if they are regular or stellite. They are TRW # 34657SS. Does anyone have an old TRW catalog to check or know the identity of these valves? Thanks, Jim [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat] Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Feb 26 17:51:02 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 16:51:02 -0800 Subject: [6pack] OD prices going up Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573E05E65B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Lads: Wow, OD prices are going up for our beloved LBCs. Here is an eBay auction with a buy it now price of $2,200 for a rebuilt OD tranny. Ouch. Item 120384281578. To be fair, it includes everything even a new OD clutch. But it seems that these are increasing more rapidly than makes sense given the supply of Volvo overdrives. Maybe one of these days I will be able to sell my TR6 for more than I have into it. Uhhh...nope. I will be dead and buried before prices catch up that much. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From cris_tr6 at hotmail.com Thu Feb 26 18:05:45 2009 From: cris_tr6 at hotmail.com (Cris Hemingway) Date: Thu, 26 Feb 2009 17:05:45 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Removing Front Spindles Message-ID: Need some creative ideas on how to do this, as I have taken off the hub and rotor, and as per the manual "tapped" the end of the spindle to release the taper. Knowing the British to be the masters of the understatment especially when it comes to tapered fits, I have also beat on it with at 1/5" ball pein hammer and a block of wood to protect the threads, not that I care about them, as I am replacing the spindle. So far no luck. Any one out there who has a way that works without using a torch? Thanks in advance. Cris Hemingway _________________________________________________________________ The new Windows Live Messenger. You dont want to miss this. From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Feb 27 08:54:41 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 10:54:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Removing Front Spindles In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, 26 Feb 2009, Cris Hemingway wrote: > Need some creative ideas on how to do this, as I have taken off the hub and > rotor, and as per the manual "tapped" the end of the spindle to release the > taper. I find the "tapping" reference in the "book" to be quite amusing. Particularly, the one for removing u-joints. But I digress. I had a set that I tried pretty much everything on - beating, pressing, beating and pressing, soaking... you get the idea. At the risk of breaking the magic 3k barrier, I'll cut to the chase. When things are stuck, you have two choices - decide the part is junk and find another OR resort to drastic measures (DM). With DM you need to consider which part(s) can be sacrificed to attain the goal. In this instance, you probably want to try to save the vertical link. So you can sacrifice the axle stub. Reverting back to my episode above, I was sitting in the garage one night looking at my oxy-acetylene tanks and thinking...I wonder. In less than an hour, I had four links ready for new axle stubs. Takehomes - DO NOT HEAT THE LINK ITSELF. Instead, heat the stub and then "quench" with oil. You don't need to make the metal red hot, just get it really warm (maybe 150 or so) and then quench. If you get it too hot, the oil (or PB Blaster or Kerosene) will "flash" and you have flames which can be "an issue". About the only other "trick" is to make a piece of pipe that is cut squarely that is longer than the axle stub so you can rest the link on that when you try to apply some force. I think 1.5" black pipe is more than adequate, the key is that you don't want to mess up the sealing surface on the link. But repeat - heat, quench, whack, heat, quench, whack... I use a nut on the end of the threads as a matter of habit. It is possible to peen the end of the shaft so much you have to cut or grind it off to get it out of the link. You don't want that. If you get the link hot (like red), just toss it. It's def junk at that point. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From triosan at gmail.com Fri Feb 27 09:35:49 2009 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 08:35:49 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Removing Front Spindles In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8cbd782d0902270835v14340a09x9c1774464c1771a7@mail.gmail.com> Chris, I have two good stub axles should you need to revert to Bob's DM method. Again, I used a twenty ton press to get these out,but am pretty sure I did not mess up the threads [I installed uncle jack's stonger axelsas this is a race car]. On Fri, Feb 27, 2009 at 7:54 AM, Robert Lang wrote: > On Thu, 26 Feb 2009, Cris Hemingway wrote: > > Need some creative ideas on how to do this, as I have taken off the hub and >> rotor, and as per the manual "tapped" the end of the spindle to release >> the >> taper. >> > > I find the "tapping" reference in the "book" to be quite amusing. > Particularly, the one for removing u-joints. But I digress. > > I had a set that I tried pretty much everything on - beating, pressing, > beating and pressing, soaking... you get the idea. At the risk of breaking > the magic 3k barrier, I'll cut to the chase. > > When things are stuck, you have two choices - decide the part is junk and > find another OR resort to drastic measures (DM). With DM you need to > consider which part(s) can be sacrificed to attain the goal. > > In this instance, you probably want to try to save the vertical link. So > you can sacrifice the axle stub. Reverting back to my episode above, I was > sitting in the garage one night looking at my oxy-acetylene tanks and > thinking...I wonder. In less than an hour, I had four links ready for new > axle stubs. > > Takehomes - DO NOT HEAT THE LINK ITSELF. Instead, heat the stub and then > "quench" with oil. You don't need to make the metal red hot, just get it > really warm (maybe 150 or so) and then quench. If you get it too hot, the > oil (or PB Blaster or Kerosene) will "flash" and you have flames which can > be "an issue". About the only other "trick" is to make a piece of pipe that > is cut squarely that is longer than the axle stub so you can rest the link > on that when you try to apply some force. I think 1.5" black pipe is more > than adequate, the key is that you don't want to mess up the sealing surface > on the link. But repeat - heat, quench, whack, heat, quench, whack... I use > a nut on the end of the threads as a matter of habit. It is possible to peen > the end of the shaft so much you have to cut or grind it off to get it out > of the link. You don't want that. > > If you get the link hot (like red), just toss it. It's def junk at that > point. > > Regards, > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent > Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! > Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Feb 27 09:47:51 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 11:47:51 EST Subject: [6pack] Front Spindles..and new subjects HD Spindles and Miata Seat Conversions Message-ID: NFI on my part..... Speaking of uncle jack....I just talked to Tony Drews, Jack's son..... He has several Miata Seat Conversion brackets for the TR6 left from Jack's estate. This will likely be the last of those available. Tony IS producing more of the uncle jack (ujr) hd spindle and spacer kits this month, so those will be available once again. Please contact Tony at: tony at tonydrews.com Joe A. > Chris, > > I have two good stub axles should you need to revert to Bob's DM method. > Again, I used a twenty ton press to get these out,but am pretty sure I did > not mess up the threads [I installed uncle jack's stonger axelsas this is a > race car]. From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Fri Feb 27 14:01:52 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Fri, 27 Feb 2009 16:01:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] OD prices going up In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573E05E65B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573E05E65B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: On Feb 26, 2009, at 7:51 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Wow, OD prices are going up for our beloved LBCs. Here is an eBay > auction with a buy it now price of $2,200 for a rebuilt OD tranny. > Ouch. Item > 120384281578. You're right Vance, here's another on the VTR classifieds pages: http://www.vtr.org/classifieds/detail.php?siteid=4039 Blake Discher Detroit From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Feb 28 06:40:24 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 08:40:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Red Lock-Tite Message-ID: The red product made by Lock-Tite and Permatex is for heavy duty thread locking. Sometimes after toquing a component, you're supposed to check & re-torque after driving XXX miles. I'd usually do that by putting my torque wrench on the car and tightening it again. If it has loosened and moves, does that wreck the effectiveness of the thread locking compound? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Feb 28 07:16:59 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 14:16:59 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Red Lock-Tite In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF728205C551F2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bob, I would imagine once the stuff sets up its effectiveness will be reduced or removed if you later create movement in the interface that breaks the bond between the mating surfaces. What fasteners that typically need re-torquing would you use thread locker on ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Saturday, February 28, 2009 8:40 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'TR6' Subject: [6pack] Red Lock-Tite The red product made by Lock-Tite and Permatex is for heavy duty thread locking. Sometimes after toquing a component, you're supposed to check & re-torque after driving XXX miles. I'd usually do that by putting my torque wrench on the car and tightening it again. If it has loosened and moves, does that wreck the effectiveness of the thread locking compound? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sat Feb 28 12:58:14 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 11:58:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] OD doesn't disengage when hot Message-ID: <198208.82620.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I just returned from a 150 mile road trip with the club. For the past several trips I have noticed that the OD on my car (A type) won't engage near the end of the trip. It works fine otherwise and doesn't drop out of OD unless I disengage it normally. When the car is hot after a long drive (no overheating issues) and I attempt to reengage it nothing happens. Ideas, suggestions??? TIA. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6 with A type OD, TBI From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Feb 28 14:43:04 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 28 Feb 2009 16:43:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] OD doesn't disengage when hot In-Reply-To: <198208.82620.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <198208.82620.qm@web51408.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Sounds to me like a fault in the Solenoid. Remove it and clean all the surfaces on the plunger and the inside of the unit. Polish the plunger. Then apply a thin coat of dialectic grease. While off the car test the unit by setting up a switch simulating the power and ground. Using a car battery, energize the solenoid for a while as to recreate the heat and after a while switch off and on again, see if it engages. The newer units from the Far East are not as good as the original from the UK. Just my two cents worth.