From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Apr 1 07:15:15 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 07:15:15 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Buddy's Spit has carb issues In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758EC9D36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Sloane: Sounds like good old fashioned heat soak to me. Does the car start if he attempts to restart it immediately after shutting it down? If so, I doubt that the float is stuck. Read the plugs to see if the mixture is correct, adjust as needed. A guess would be that the mix is lean, causing extra heat. Adjust/clean the temperature compensator in the carb to make sure it is working correctly. If all else fails, install a heat shield between the carb and exhaust manifold. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im sloane Sent: Tuesday, March 31, 2009 6:31 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Buddy's Spit has carb issues Hi team, I have a buddy with a 74 Spit, OEM carb(1). Car has been off the road for most of the last two years, but he cranks it regularly. (only body and interior work) He's having an issue after a 20-30 minute drive. Car won't start, and he notices oil(?) coming out of the small pin hole near the top of the carb dashpot. I'm thinking he could have a stuck float, flooded carb, and gas is backing up into the dashpot, which would overflow if the top was off, but is squeezing out the little hole. He get's it home without a tow, so obviously it will start when cooled down. I'm hoping he doesn't need to rebuild the whole carb. What say ye? Sloane :) 69-Six _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live SkyDrive: Get 25 GB of free online storage. http://windowslive.com/online/skydrive?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_032009 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed Apr 1 08:48:32 2009 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Wed, 1 Apr 2009 08:48:32 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] University Motors, Michigan - Utube clips Message-ID: <420302.31978.qm@web65602.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> John Twist has a great selection of Utube clips on his University Motors website. Great LBC how to stuff. Selection includes the "5 Minute U-joint Change". He's very MG oriented as that's his specialty; now if only some shop or club would do this for Triumph. If this is already out there somewhere, let me know. Thanks, Bruce Simms CF1941UO __________________________________________________________________ Looking for the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! http://www.flickr.com/gift/ From brian at asmoothmove.biz Thu Apr 2 09:13:14 2009 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 11:13:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Low Frequency Shimmy Message-ID: <005301c9b3ad$ed793eb0$c86bbc10$@biz> I reaped an interesting benefit to replacing my stock rear axle sliding members. My old axles had worn splines, but newer u-joints. The clunking became so irritating that I finally replaced them with the up-rated sliders from Revington TR. The clunking ceased, but another problem disappeared as well. The car always had a low-frequency shimmy at around 55 miles per hour. It seemed to emanate from the front-end, and was so pronounced that I always avoided that speed. Being a frame-off restoration with rebuilt drive train and suspension (except the aforementioned axles) and well-balanced Dayton wires and red-lines, I could never figure out the cause of the shimmy. Apparently, the old axles must have wobbled or vibrated at a resonance that manifested itself as the shimmy. With the new sliding axles, the shimmy is gone. I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had similar results. Brian J. Alwin 72 TR6 CC79085 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Apr 2 09:47:55 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 09:47:55 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Low Frequency Shimmy In-Reply-To: <005301c9b3ad$ed793eb0$c86bbc10$@biz> References: <005301c9b3ad$ed793eb0$c86bbc10$@biz> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758ECA4D0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Brian: Interesting. Had the axles been regreased during the frame off? The reason I ask is that the axles have a reputation for binding as the grease dries out. I tore mine down and cleaned and regreased mine. The grease had completely dried out and was like paraffin (That would be kitchen wax to our friends on the other side of the pond) rather than grease. While paraffin has lubricating properties, it is nothing like grease. So a handful of axle grease was used on both, and new boots then they were reinstalled. My point is, could your axles have been binding, or were they truly worn out (or perhaps both I suppose)? Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of brian at asmoothmove.biz Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:13 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Low Frequency Shimmy Apparently, the old axles must have wobbled or vibrated at a resonance that manifested itself as the shimmy. With the new sliding axles, the shimmy is gone. I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had similar results. Brian J. Alwin 72 TR6 CC79085 From brian at asmoothmove.biz Thu Apr 2 10:58:27 2009 From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (brian at asmoothmove.biz) Date: Thu, 2 Apr 2009 12:58:27 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Low Frequency Shimmy In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758ECA4D0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <005301c9b3ad$ed793eb0$c86bbc10$@biz> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758ECA4D0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <006101c9b3bc$a07f7160$e17e5420$@biz> Vance: Yes, when I restored the car 6 years ago, I tore them down, de-greased them and liberally covered the splines with grease upon re-assembly. I remember noting that there was play when I put them back together, but had no way of determining how much. Because of the constant clunking when starting out and changing gears I guess there was too much play and they were just plain worn out. The splines still had plenty of fresh grease in them when I removed them recently. The new axles have zerk fittings to facilitate keeping the splines lubricated. I don't recall the originals having zerks. Brian -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 11:48 AM To: brian at asmoothmove.biz; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Low Frequency Shimmy Brian: Interesting. Had the axles been regreased during the frame off? The reason I ask is that the axles have a reputation for binding as the grease dries out. I tore mine down and cleaned and regreased mine. The grease had completely dried out and was like paraffin (That would be kitchen wax to our friends on the other side of the pond) rather than grease. While paraffin has lubricating properties, it is nothing like grease. So a handful of axle grease was used on both, and new boots then they were reinstalled. My point is, could your axles have been binding, or were they truly worn out (or perhaps both I suppose)? Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast http://www.triumphowners.com/832 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of brian at asmoothmove.biz Sent: Thursday, April 02, 2009 9:13 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Low Frequency Shimmy Apparently, the old axles must have wobbled or vibrated at a resonance that manifested itself as the shimmy. With the new sliding axles, the shimmy is gone. I would be interested to hear if anyone else has had similar results. Brian J. Alwin 72 TR6 CC79085 From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Fri Apr 3 07:43:31 2009 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 08:43:31 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Keith Bryson Memorial Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB1A1D24@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Good morning- I realize we are spead all over the Nation(s), but I thought I'd let everyone know Keith Bryson's Memorial Service is tomorrow in Bowling Green, Ky at 2 pm at Hillview Heights Church. Many of his british car friends are arriving in our cars. My TR250 is almost identical to Keith's except for the color of the interior. Keith had a variety of interests including wood boats, planes and scuba diving. He was widely recognized as an early innovator of laser surgery in this area. So, tomorrow as you enjoy your Saturday in your garage or wherever you might be, think of Keith in the afternoon while we remember him in his hometown. Below is the link to Keith's obituary. http://www.bgdailynews.com/articles/2009/04/01/obituaries/obit-bryson.tx t Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Fri Apr 3 09:01:50 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Fri, 3 Apr 2009 12:01:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Clutch push rod? Message-ID: <380-2200945316150671@earthlink.net> Hello Gents, The clutch push rod I got from TRF (stock type, solid and non-adjustable) has a slight angle where the "fork" meets the solid bar. The bar is "straight" longitudinally, but there's a bit of vertical angle. I looked at two cruddy old ones and found this seems to be an original feature. >From the funny angle I'm working at, I cannot see why one orientation would be more advantageous than the other. Perhaps it's to prevent fouling something at full lever extension? Is this just a production variation, or is there an "up" and "down" side? Thanks, Tom CC55483L "90% complete" (groan) All the war-propaganda, all the screaming and lies and hatred, comes invariably from people who are not fighting. George Orwell From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Apr 3 10:25:27 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 03 Apr 2009 17:25:27 GMT Subject: [6pack] Clutch push rod? Message-ID: Tom---Since one end of the rod joins the clevis pin, and the other end has a ball socket, there should be no alignment issues with either orientation during assembly. The straightest line is what we want, to avoid side loading of the SC piston. (Another reason for using the center hole in the clutch shaft actuating shaft) Dick -----Original Message----- From: Tomislav Marincic Sent: Friday, April 3, 2009 9:01 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Clutch push rod? Hello Gents, The clutch push rod I got from TRF (stock type, solid and non-adjustable) has a slight angle where the "fork" meets the solid bar. The bar is "straight" longitudinally, but there's a bit of vertical angle. I looked at two cruddy old ones and found this seems to be an original feature. >From the funny angle I'm working at, I cannot see why one orientation would be more advantageous than the other. Perhaps it's to prevent fouling something at full lever extension? Is this just a production variation, or is there an "up" and "down" side? Thanks, Tom CC55483L "90% complete" (groan) All the war-propaganda, all the screaming and lies and hatred, comes invariably from people who are not fighting. George Orwell 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 4 07:27:48 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 09:27:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] door switch for a 72 References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170E0C@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <000b01c9b531$8a177d70$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> Am i correct in thinking that there is a replacement door switch for a 72? istr it was a bmw part #? anyone have that? thanks! From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Apr 4 10:15:48 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 13:15:48 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wrenches References: <49D74ACE.7202.7BC4A1@localhost> Message-ID: <5616563910C141A894C7E89D959AFD69@D1TG6Y71> I really surprised that no one has spoken up for Harbor Freight wrenches ... during the period that my teenage kids were loosing my tools faster than I could afford to replace them, HF was my solution: cheap enough that I didn't mind the odd breakage. The impact sockets do seem to be very good, but the regular ones will give up every once in a while. The ratchets are torque limited - they break before the bolt, unless it is the most inaccessible bolt in Christendom, and then they work perfectly. The rubberized screwdrivers are a particular specialty; they never damage a stubborn screw before they fail! I must admit to a love-hate relationship with HF ... some things are so cheap and quite good (the small DVM for $1.99 is as accurate as my Fluke for the ranges it offers), but others are crap (the needle scaler that will run for 10 minutes before giving up the ghost) ... sometimes, you do get what you pay for! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Muller" To: "Triumph List" Sent: Saturday, April 04, 2009 11:55 AM Subject: Re: [TR] Wrenches > On 4 Apr 2009 at 8:13, Michael Moore wrote: From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Sat Apr 4 12:58:36 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 15:58:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? Message-ID: <380-22009464195836750@earthlink.net> Hello, I'm installing the external spring for the Gunst throw-out bearing in my TR6, and I'm a little concerned about the amount of tension specified in the most recent instructions. The original German instructions, available at the Buckeye Triumphs web site, specify stretching the spring 15mm to supply pretension. My written instructions from TRF called for 25mm, but I talked with Dave Swauger yesterday about a related issue, and he told me TRF now recommends 30mm, and using the bottom lever arm hole instead of the top, as originally specified. I'm worried about frying my thrust bearings in short order with that much preload. 30mm of stretch produces a lot of preload, and using the bottom lever hole increases the effect at the TOB further. Is it really necessary? Has anyone out there got some first-hand experience at a lower preload level? Was the TOB chirping or causing other problems? TIA, Tom CC55483L All the war-propaganda, all the screaming and lies and hatred, comes invariably from people who are not fighting. George Orwell From jmitch at snet.net Sat Apr 4 13:58:30 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 04 Apr 2009 16:58:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? In-Reply-To: <380-22009464195836750@earthlink.net> References: <380-22009464195836750@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <49D7C9F6.6060108@snet.net> I used the 15mm from the original instruction and have had no trouble with squealing whatsoever. I would go with least preload to start and add more only if needed. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 STag Tomislav Marincic wrote: > Hello, > > I'm installing the external spring for the Gunst throw-out bearing in my TR6, and I'm a little concerned about the amount of tension specified in the most recent instructions. > > The original German instructions, available at the Buckeye Triumphs web site, specify stretching the spring 15mm to supply pretension. My written instructions from TRF called for 25mm, but I talked with Dave Swauger yesterday about a related issue, and he told me TRF now recommends 30mm, and using the bottom lever arm hole instead of the top, as originally specified. > > I'm worried about frying my thrust bearings in short order with that much preload. 30mm of stretch produces a lot of preload, and using the bottom lever hole increases the effect at the TOB further. Is it really necessary? > > Has anyone out there got some first-hand experience at a lower preload level? Was the TOB chirping or causing other problems? > > TIA, Tom > CC55483L From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 4 15:06:32 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 17:06:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] i believe there are 2 TR's in this clip References: <2158B1B575A86C4FA812AAD3540F06027F70EC270D@USNorS37.instron.com><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7281FEDA8FE9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <16E4B67EC60A41E4BBEF7CFA6694C565@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <002a01c9b571$af1dd6b0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> http://www.youtube.com:80/watch?v=PN_oDdGmKyA&feature From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Sat Apr 4 19:05:17 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Sat, 4 Apr 2009 22:05:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? Message-ID: <380-220094052517125@earthlink.net> John, thanks, I think I'll do just that. Do you happen to recall whether you used the top or bottom hole on the lever to attach the front end of the spring? I appreciate your help, Tom > [Original Message] > From: John Mitchell > To: > Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: 4/4/2009 4:59:00 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? > > I used the 15mm from the original instruction and have had no trouble > with squealing whatsoever. I would go with least preload to start and > add more only if needed. John Mitchell 76 TR6 72 STag > > Tomislav Marincic wrote: > > Hello, > > > > I'm installing the external spring for the Gunst throw-out bearing in my TR6, and I'm a little concerned about the amount of tension specified in the most recent instructions. > > > > The original German instructions, available at the Buckeye Triumphs web site, specify stretching the spring 15mm to supply pretension. My written instructions from TRF called for 25mm, but I talked with Dave Swauger yesterday about a related issue, and he told me TRF now recommends 30mm, and using the bottom lever arm hole instead of the top, as originally specified. > > > > I'm worried about frying my thrust bearings in short order with that much preload. 30mm of stretch produces a lot of preload, and using the bottom lever hole increases the effect at the TOB further. Is it really necessary? > > > > Has anyone out there got some first-hand experience at a lower preload level? Was the TOB chirping or causing other problems? > > > > TIA, Tom > > CC55483L From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Apr 4 23:47:33 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 06:47:33 GMT Subject: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? Message-ID: Tom---The idea behind the preload is to make certain that the Gunst bearing never stops spinning with a running clutch. A stretch of 15mm connected to the top hole in the arm should be enough to do the trick. As the clutch disc lining wears, the spring is stretched further, increasing the preload, slight as this may be. If you want to make a simple setup here, rig up something to see how much tension is necessary to spin the bearing. You can use a drill press and a bathroom scale. Compare the poundage necessary to stretch the given spring 15mm. Find a compression spring that when compressed 15mm, equals the same poundage. Consider that when the clutch is disengaged it takes about 250 to 300 lb to do so. (Many, many times the preload). I don't think you can hurt this bearing when using the spring provided, even with a 30mm stretch of the spring, in the bottom hole. Still, I'd go with the original instructions. I know it works! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Tomislav Marincic Sent: Saturday, April 4, 2009 12:58 PM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? Hello, I'm installing the external spring for the Gunst throw-out bearing in my TR6, and I'm a little concerned about the amount of tension specified in the most recent instructions. The original German instructions, available at the Buckeye Triumphs web site, specify stretching the spring 15mm to supply pretension. My written instructions from TRF called for 25mm, but I talked with Dave Swauger yesterday about a related issue, and he told me TRF now recommends 30mm, and using the bottom lever arm hole instead of the top, as originally specified. I'm worried about frying my thrust bearings in short order with that much preload. 30mm of stretch produces a lot of preload, and using the bottom lever hole increases the effect at the TOB further. Is it really necessary? Has anyone out there got some first-hand experience at a lower preload level? Was the TOB chirping or causing other problems? TIA, Tom CC55483L All the war-propaganda, all the screaming and lies and hatred, comes invariably from people who are not fighting. George Orwell 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Sun Apr 5 07:11:03 2009 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Sun, 5 Apr 2009 09:11:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? Message-ID: <380-2200940513113901@earthlink.net> Dick, Thanks for the reply. In my investigation of the clutch saga, I keep running across your name, so I feel very fortunate to have your opinion available. It seems like the TOB's that are not seating at 15mm preload are all giving plenty of audible warning, so I'll start with 15mm/top hole and listen carefully. I can always increase the preload if I hear the dreaded chirping. I appreciate your comments about the amount of force required to release the clutch, but it's not a damaged TOB I'm worried about, but rather an engine thrust bearing that wears prematurely from the constant force. Otherwise, I'd set 30mm/bottom hole and be done with it. Your idea for the drill press is good, but my bearing is already entombed in the drivetrain. Thanks to you and everyone who replied. Cheers, Tom > [Original Message] > From: Sally or Dick Taylor > To: ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: 4/5/2009 2:47:33 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? > > Tom---The idea behind the preload is to make certain that the Gunst bearing never stops spinning with a running clutch. A stretch of 15mm connected to the top hole in the arm should be enough to do the trick. As the clutch disc lining wears, the spring is stretched further, increasing the preload, slight as this may be. If you want to make a simple setup here, rig up something to see how much tension is necessary to spin the bearing. You can use a drill press and a bathroom scale. Compare the poundage necessary to stretch the given spring 15mm. Find a compression spring that when compressed 15mm, equals the same poundage. > > Consider that when the clutch is disengaged it takes about 250 to 300 lb to do so. (Many, many times the preload). I don't think you can hurt this bearing when using the spring provided, even with a 30mm stretch of the spring, in the bottom hole. Still, I'd go with the original instructions. I know it works! From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 5 13:28:48 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 05 Apr 2009 19:28:48 GMT Subject: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? Message-ID: By using a "+..005" oversized washer, I set my thrust washer clearance for a total of .003, which is tighter than "recommended" That was around 60,000 miles ago. The last time I checked this, about 10,000 miles ago, the clearance was indicated at .005. Because of this history, I seriously doubt that the nominal preload as Mr. Gunst recommended will cause any premature failure. Likewise, doubling the preload should have a minimal effect, given the total weight of the crankshaft and the force necessary to move it. I like your idea of just listening to see if you can hear any sound coming from the clutch-to-bearing interface. As you noted, t's easy enough to add preload. Nelson and I exchanged quite a bit of info on the dreaded clutch squeal that was taking place about 7-10 years ago. I'm glad he documented this effort! I wish he were still in the Triumph hobby! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Tomislav Marincic Sent: Sunday, April 5, 2009 6:11 AM To: Sally or Dick Taylor Cc: 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? Dick, Thanks for the reply. In my investigation of the clutch saga, I keep running across your name, so I feel very fortunate to have your opinion available. It seems like the TOB's that are not seating at 15mm preload are all giving plenty of audible warning, so I'll start with 15mm/top hole and listen carefully. I can always increase the preload if I hear the dreaded chirping. I appreciate your comments about the amount of force required to release the clutch, but it's not a damaged TOB I'm worried about, but rather an engine thrust bearing that wears prematurely from the constant force. Otherwise, I'd set 30mm/bottom hole and be done with it. Your idea for the drill press is good, but my bearing is already entombed in the drivetrain. Thanks to you and everyone who replied. Cheers, Tom > [Original Message] > From: Sally or Dick Taylor > To: ; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Date: 4/5/2009 2:47:33 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Gunst Bearing Experiences? > > Tom---The idea behind the preload is to make certain that the Gunst bearing never stops spinning with a running clutch. A stretch of 15mm connected to the top hole in the arm should be enough to do the trick. As the clutch disc lining wears, the spring is stretched further, increasing the preload, slight as this may be. If you want to make a simple setup here, rig up something to see how much tension is necessary to spin the bearing. You can use a drill press and a bathroom scale. Compare the poundage necessary to stretch the given spring 15mm. Find a compression spring that when compressed 15mm, equals the same poundage. > > Consider that when the clutch is disengaged it takes about 250 to 300 lb to do so. (Many, many times the preload). I don't think you can hurt this bearing when using the spring provided, even with a 30mm stretch of the spring, in the bottom hole. Still, I'd go with the original instructions. I know it works! From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Apr 6 15:11:42 2009 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 14:11:42 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] slightly off-topic Message-ID: <622169.71578.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> A dealer in St. Louis has a Triumph Italia for sale. Kinda rough condition, but it seems to have all of the trim but the front bumper. I have not seen it in person. Maybe one of you would have an interest? http://www.wilsonmotorco.com/ Jim From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Apr 6 16:18:51 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 18:18:51 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic In-Reply-To: <622169.71578.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <622169.71578.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 6 Apr 2009, Jim Jones wrote: > A dealer in St. Louis has a Triumph Italia for sale. Kinda rough condition, > but it seems to have all of the trim but the front bumper. I have not seen it > in person. Maybe one of you would have an interest? > > http://www.wilsonmotorco.com/ One of the most pretty cars ever made. Period. They go for fairly big $$$ in 100 point concours condition. Did I say that they are pretty? > Jim rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 6 16:24:39 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 22:24:39 +0000 Subject: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic In-Reply-To: References: <622169.71578.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/044.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/BI%20XVI%202006/DSCN1782.jpg Yep, they are pretty.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 6:19 PM To: Jim Jones Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic On Mon, 6 Apr 2009, Jim Jones wrote: > A dealer in St. Louis has a Triumph Italia for sale. Kinda rough condition, > but it seems to have all of the trim but the front bumper. I have not seen it > in person. Maybe one of you would have an interest? > > http://www.wilsonmotorco.com/ One of the most pretty cars ever made. Period. They go for fairly big $$$ in 100 point concours condition. Did I say that they are pretty? > Jim rml From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Apr 6 16:54:06 2009 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 06 Apr 2009 18:54:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <622169.71578.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8CB8521B8FD4F99-778-18CE@webmail-md08.sysops.aol.com> If interested, more pics are on my triumphowners.com/108 page.? Scroll down and look for two picture sets, one of a red one and one of a black one. -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan (HP IT) To: Robert Lang ; Jim Jones Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 6:24 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/044.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/BI%20XVI%202006/DSCN1782.jpg Yep, they are pretty.. Stan From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 6 17:09:06 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 23:09:06 +0000 Subject: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic In-Reply-To: <8CB8521B8FD4F99-778-18CE@webmail-md08.sysops.aol.com> References: <622169.71578.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CB8521B8FD4F99-778-18CE@webmail-md08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> The red one looks like the same event that I got my red car picture from, BI 2006 in Stowe. I recall that this car belongs to a used car salesman from Perkasie, PA :-) We see that red car again with the other two at the VTR National Convention in Valley Forge, 2007 Stan From: acekraut11 at aol.com [mailto:acekraut11 at aol.com] Sent: Monday, April 06, 2009 6:54 PM To: Foster, Stan (HP IT); lang at isis.mit.edu; jimjcmo at yahoo.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic If interested, more pics are on my triumphowners.com/108 page. Scroll down and look for two picture sets, one of a red one and one of a black one. From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Apr 6 17:54:44 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 19:54:44 EDT Subject: [6pack] Italia Message-ID: I stopped in and saw this car about 4 years ago....I do remember it as being rough and their plan was to restore and sell. Hopefully someone with a passion will be willing to rescue this classic. Joe A > > A dealer in St. Louis has a Triumph Italia for sale. Kinda rough > condition, > > but it seems to have all of the trim but the front bumper. I have not seen > it > > in person. Maybe one of you would have an interest? > > > > http://www.wilsonmotorco.com/ From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Apr 6 18:51:21 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 6 Apr 2009 20:51:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] slightly off-topic - alright WAAAY off topic In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <622169.71578.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><8CB8521B8FD4F99-778-18CE@webmail-md08.sysops.aol.com> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AA67F632A7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: The red one belongs to Dave Hutchinson who works for Ragtops and Roadsters in Perkasie PA. t From aktifspeed at gmail.com Tue Apr 7 12:03:17 2009 From: aktifspeed at gmail.com (Erik Sulcs) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 14:03:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Italia for sale... Message-ID: I've seen that very car for sale on the Wilson Motor Co website now for at least a year... Either something is majorly structurally wrong with it or the most likely reason is the cost in bringing it up to concours condition. However, if I had the $$ it would be fixed-up just enough to become a great driver... My 2 sense... Erik S. From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Apr 7 12:45:06 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 7 Apr 2009 11:45:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] ITALIA Message-ID: <978617.48971.qm@web51411.mail.re2.yahoo.com> One of our club members (Kent Stutler) and several of our club members restored a dark blue Italia 5 or 6 years ago. Kent died shortly thereafter and his wife sold it. I think I saw it at Amelia Island 3 or 4 years ago. Beautyful car, great restoration. Mike Lunsford PS: I don't see this as that far off subject, at least it's a Triumph!! From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Apr 8 11:28:03 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 10:28:03 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Folks: Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. Here is the article: http://www.comcast.net/articles/finance/20090408/EU.Germany.Karma nn.Bankruptcy/ Another one bites the dust. The automotive industry is going through a shake up, no doubt about it. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast http://www.triumphowners.com/832 From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com Wed Apr 8 13:22:22 2009 From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 15:22:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. Hey Vance, Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen that before: http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.jpg Cheers, Blake Discher Detroit From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Wed Apr 8 13:29:11 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 13:29:11 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <82B9E2E19ED44E089A00A956A7C6D953@nmsu.edu> No one else has, so I will.... It must be bad Karma, man.... L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J. Discher Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 1:22 PM To: Vance Navarrette; 6 Digest; Triumph List; Mike Cook Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. Hey Vance, Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen that before: http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.jpg Cheers, Blake Discher Detroit 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Apr 8 14:12:44 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 13:12:44 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFBF5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> I noticed the Rostyle wheels, and the hard top with wrap around glass. Some interesting styling differences. Also the file photo is named "TR5.JPG". Presumably Leyland wanted to name the car the TR5, but by the time they got it into production, that name had been assigned to the TR4 with the 6 cylinder PI motor in the UK. In the US, that model was called the TR250. Anyway, the TR5 moniker was already in use. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: Blake J. Discher [mailto:bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com] Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 12:22 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; 6 Digest; Triumph List; Mike Cook Subject: Karmann declares bankruptcy On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. Hey Vance, Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen that before: http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.jpg Cheers, Blake Discher Detroit From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Apr 8 15:23:21 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 17:23:21 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFBF5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFBF5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: Hmmmm.... sort of looks like the GRM / JK Jackson car... :-) rml p.s. that grille does nothing for me. I like the final product. Much more understated. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From colinthom at shaw.ca Wed Apr 8 17:59:08 2009 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 16:59:08 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Battery Vapors Message-ID: <000b01c9b8a6$0198e8d0$04caba70$@ca> Hi Gang I've just replaced my "maintenance free" battery with a real one that actually has removable cell caps. In the past, I've noticed on some cars that the paint on the underside of the bonnet, right above the battery is often blistered. Having spent big bucks on my paint job, I want to avoid this. Other than putting a shower cap over the battery, I'm stumped. Any suggestions? Thanks all. Colin. From yyctr6 at shaw.ca Wed Apr 8 18:00:32 2009 From: yyctr6 at shaw.ca (yyctr6 at shaw.ca) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 18:00:32 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> <49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <882429AB6E284900AB09B1E4FBD7B5C7@DavesPC> We've seen the grille, and here are some more shots: http://www.tr6.org/6design.htm -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joe Burlein Sent: April-08-09 5:56 PM To: Blake J. Discher Cc: Triumph List; Cook; Vance Navarrette; 6 Digest; Mike at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy I've seen that picture before in some book but I can't remember where though. The quality of the picture wasn't this good though. BTW, the picture is labeled TR5. Note the TR4/5 targa top as well as the sun visors. Joe Blake J. Discher wrote: > On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. > > > > Hey Vance, > Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around > the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this > very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen > that before: > > http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.j > pg > > Cheers, > Blake Discher > Detroit > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as supertr6 at earthlink.net > > http://www.team.net/archive This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as yyctr6 at shaw.ca http://www.team.net/archive From colinthom at shaw.ca Wed Apr 8 18:25:13 2009 From: colinthom at shaw.ca (Colin Thom) Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 17:25:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] battery vapors clarified Message-ID: <001101c9b8a9$a66fac10$f34f0430$@ca> Hi Gang.I should clarify that my new battery has 2 removable covers that each cover 3 cells. It's not the type with 6 screw-off caps. Thanks, Colin From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Apr 9 06:45:15 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 12:45:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <882429AB6E284900AB09B1E4FBD7B5C7@DavesPC> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com> <49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> <882429AB6E284900AB09B1E4FBD7B5C7@DavesPC> Message-ID: Love those pics! The one guy in the white lab coat says to the other one, "See, right here is where they'll start rusting..." Sloane :) 69-Six > From: yyctr6 at shaw.ca > To: supertr6 at earthlink.net; bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com > Date: Wed, 8 Apr 2009 18:00:32 -0600 > CC: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; mcook at vtr.org; Mike at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy > > We've seen the grille, and here are some more shots: > http://www.tr6.org/6design.htm > > > You are subscribed as im_sloane at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Mobi le1_042009 From stuartt at tlthompson.com Thu Apr 9 07:08:57 2009 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 08:08:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Karmann declares bankruptcy References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFA36@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com><49DD3993.2080904@earthlink.net> <882429AB6E284900AB09B1E4FBD7B5C7@DavesPC> Message-ID: <82D2D3578F4340E2B4E23629CCF4289C@Dell320> That's funny! > The one guy in the white lab coat says to the other one, "See, right here > is > where they'll start rusting..." From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Apr 9 07:31:32 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 09:31:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Battery Vapors In-Reply-To: <000b01c9b8a6$0198e8d0$04caba70$@ca> References: <000b01c9b8a6$0198e8d0$04caba70$@ca> Message-ID: On Wed, 8 Apr 2009, Colin Thom wrote: > Hi Gang > > > > I've just replaced my "maintenance free" battery with a real one that > actually has removable cell caps. In the past, I've noticed on some cars > that the paint on the underside of the bonnet, right above the battery is > often blistered. Having spent big bucks on my paint job, I want to avoid > this. Other than putting a shower cap over the battery, I'm stumped. Any > suggestions? Thanks all. Colin. I'll add one - DON'T OVERCHARGE THE BATTERY. This causes the battery to vent. It will wreck the paint all around it as the gasses coming out of the battery are hydrogen and oxygen, but also some of the electrolyte will escape. If you do overcharge (or maybe as a preventitive maintenance), wipe the battery paint around the battery with a cloth and a mild solution of baking soda to neutralize any acid that has condensed on the paint. Once all the paint is wiped, then wipe the battery. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Thu Apr 9 07:44:22 2009 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 09:44:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: <82B9E2E19ED44E089A00A956A7C6D953@nmsu.edu> References: <7F3502AE-43BB-43FC-A67A-A5711E667D27@blakedischer.com>, <82B9E2E19ED44E089A00A956A7C6D953@nmsu.edu> Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B010442491F5E@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu> The picture is titled "TR5" but the TR5 in Europe was the TR-4A only with the fuel injection. It was sold as the TR-5, as everyone on the list knows. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin McNelis [kmcnelis at nmsu.edu] Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 3:29 PM To: 'Blake J. Discher'; 'Vance Navarrette'; '6 Digest'; 'Triumph List'; 'Mike Cook' Subject: Re: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy No one else has, so I will.... It must be bad Karma, man.... L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J. Discher Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 1:22 PM To: Vance Navarrette; 6 Digest; Triumph List; Mike Cook Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. Hey Vance, Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen that before: http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.jpg Cheers, Blake Discher Detroit 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From Vsnively at aol.com Thu Apr 9 08:32:36 2009 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 10:32:36 EDT Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy Message-ID: In a message dated 4/9/2009 10:21:55 AM Eastern Daylight Time, JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu writes: The picture is titled "TR5" but the TR5 in Europe was the TR-4A only with the fuel injection. It was sold as the TR-5, as everyone on the list knows. ________________________________________ From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kevin McNelis [kmcnelis at nmsu.edu] Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 3:29 PM To: 'Blake J. Discher'; 'Vance Navarrette'; '6 Digest'; 'Triumph List'; 'Mike Cook' Subject: Re: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy No one else has, so I will.... It must be bad Karma, man.... L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J. Discher Sent: Wednesday, April 08, 2009 1:22 PM To: Vance Navarrette; 6 Digest; Triumph List; Mike Cook Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy On Apr 8, 2009, at 1:28 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: Just saw that Karmann, the folks who styled the TR6, declared bankruptcy. Hey Vance, Sad news, the industry is getting smaller indeed. I snooped around the Karmann site, it's in German so I didn't see much except for this very cool photo of a TR6. Note the front grille badge, I'd never seen that before: http://www.karmann.com/__C1256DF70051CC3B.nsf/html/TR5.jpg/$FILE/TR5.jpg Cheers, Blake Discher Detroit 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) Listers, I thought the TR5 was a TR250 with fuel injection. Is the TR5 a 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder ? Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************Worried about job security? Check out the 5 safest jobs in a recession. (http://jobs.aol.com/gallery/growing-job-industries?ncid=emlcntuscare00000003) From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Apr 9 09:29:33 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 08:29:33 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Karmann declares bankruptcy In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795758FAFFB7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Vic: You are correct, the TR5 was a 6 cylinder, which I neglected to mention. It was sold in the US as the TR250, and was sold with carburetors instead of the PI. My poor choice of words made it confusing. Sorry about that. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast http://www.triumphowners.com/832 ________________________________ Listers, I thought the TR5 was a TR250 with fuel injection. Is the TR5 a 4-cylinder or 6-cylinder ? Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC From yellowtr at adelphia.net Thu Apr 9 17:36:19 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 19:36:19 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil Message-ID: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net> All, Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today and I am going to give it a try on my 6 project engine and the screws that attach the door striker since I have the rusted portion of the rear b posts off. It will also be a good test for the 2 broken studs in the exhaust manifold. There is enough of the stud left to grab with a vice grip. I really don't want to have to drill out those studs. There was a post on the 6pack forum that this stuff is the best for removing rusted nuts, bolts and studs. I have used PB blaster in the past but it received a good review on the forum. They have a special running now where you order 1 can and you get a 2nd for FREE! I should have enough to start another project! But should I tell the wife? I will report later on how the stuff works good or bad. Bob From FSZEK at aol.com Thu Apr 9 20:02:04 2009 From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com) Date: Thu, 9 Apr 2009 22:02:04 EDT Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil Message-ID: Hey TR people, I have used Kroil for 25 years. It never has failed to loosen TR fasteners. Sometimes a second application with the Burnzomatic is needed to open up the "pores". Shoot the Kroil both before and after the btu's..Hope this helps. Cheers, Frank **************New Deals on Dell Netbooks b Now starting at $299 (A HREF=http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220635155x1201407495/aol?redir= http:%2F %2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213771973%3B35379628%3Bw) From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Fri Apr 10 08:43:35 2009 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Fri, 10 Apr 2009 10:43:35 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: Ok I'll bite who is running the buy one get one free deal.... Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 7:36 PM Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil All, Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today They have a special running now where you order 1 can and you get a 2nd for FREE! I will report later on how the stuff works good or bad. Bob From ajw at golden.net Sat Apr 11 15:20:38 2009 From: ajw at golden.net (john weir) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 17:20:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Stuck Main Bearing Message-ID: <3FF1A8D28E41440291B17A03EC17AD18@weir> I'm doing #3 main bearing and started with #4 and the Thrust washers. No problem with them. But I just can't get the top of #3 past half way around. It's now stuck. I stopped before I did some damage. Tried tapping (with an alum. bar). Turning with the crankshaft rotating and using the oil way and pin as a push. Loosening up #4 and #2 for some slack but with no luck. Using Permatex red goop for assembly lube. Now it's stuck (#3 top half). What is best to do? Loosen #1? Con rods went well. And now in the final stretch. Please help. Maybe a 2 LB. mallet is in order. Many thanks John Greasy and frustrated. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Apr 11 16:39:12 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:39:12 GMT Subject: [6pack] Stuck Main Bearing Message-ID: John---The "half way out" is not a good sign, as it sounds like something in the bearing cap is stuck in the oil feed hole in the block. (This happened to me once, when I tried to use a partial nail with a head to "move" the top bearing around. It managed to find it's way up the oil hole). It might help to lower the crank by loosening up the other bearing caps, but I ended up removing the engine to retrieve the nail/head. A lesson learned. If you don't think there's a "foreign body" up there, you could try using an old bearing half and the 2 pounder, to persuade the stuck bearing out. Do your best to not scratch the crank. Dick -----Original Message----- From: john weir Sent: Saturday, April 11, 2009 2:20 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Stuck Main Bearing I'm doing #3 main bearing and started with #4 and the Thrust washers. No problem with them. But I just can't get the top of #3 past half way around. It's now stuck. I stopped before I did some damage. Tried tapping (with an alum. bar). Turning with the crankshaft rotating and using the oil way and pin as a push. Loosening up #4 and #2 for some slack but with no luck. Using Permatex red goop for assembly lube. Now it's stuck (#3 top half). What is best to do? Loosen #1? Con rods went well. And now in the final stretch. Please help. Maybe a 2 LB. mallet is in order. Many thanks John Greasy and frustrated. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Apr 11 19:38:49 2009 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 21:38:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil In-Reply-To: References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <49f668fe0904111838s12e058b1jfe5b69464aae2cd9@mail.gmail.com> http://www.kanolabs.com/ Click on Kroil/AeroKroil and you will see the offer. John North On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 10:43 AM, Robert McBride wrote: > Ok I'll bite who is running the buy one get one free deal.... Bob > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; > Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 7:36 PM > Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil > > > All, > > Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today > > They have a special running now where you order 1 can and you get a 2nd for > FREE! > > I will report later on how the stuff works good or bad. > > Bob > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From forzion at maine.rr.com Sat Apr 11 20:08:44 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 11 Apr 2009 22:08:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0904111838s12e058b1jfe5b69464aae2cd9@mail.gmail.com> References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <49f668fe0904111838s12e058b1jfe5b69464aae2cd9@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49E14D2C.4020603@maine.rr.com> Interesting .... The Kano Labs site says: "ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND DISTRIBUTED BY KANOLABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE." Dave Friedlander 74-Six John North wrote: >http://www.kanolabs.com/ > >Click on Kroil/AeroKroil and you will see the offer. > >John North > >On Fri, Apr 10, 2009 at 10:43 AM, Robert McBride wrote: > > >>Ok I'll bite who is running the buy one get one free deal.... Bob >> >> >>----- Original Message ----- >>From: "Bob" >>To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; >>Sent: Thursday, April 09, 2009 7:36 PM >>Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil >> >> >>All, >> >>Well my order of the 16oz Aero Kroil came by UPS today >> >>They have a special running now where you order 1 can and you get a 2nd for >>FREE! >> >>I will report later on how the stuff works good or bad. >> >>Bob >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>6pack at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com >> >> >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 12 06:25:02 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 08:25:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil In-Reply-To: <49E14D2C.4020603@maine.rr.com> References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net> <49f668fe0904111838s12e058b1jfe5b69464aae2cd9@mail.gmail.com> <49E14D2C.4020603@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <200904120825.03282.yellowtr@adelphia.net> On Saturday 11 April 2009 22:08:44 David Friedlander wrote: > Interesting .... The Kano Labs site says: "ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND > DISTRIBUTED BY KANOLABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE > NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE." > > Dave Friedlander > 74-Six > Dave, I did not see that disclaimer. But I filled out the offer sheet and I received my 2 cans of 16oz Aero Kroil in about 5 days. My business name was the always popular N/A. Bob From yellowtr at adelphia.net Sun Apr 12 10:08:54 2009 From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 12:08:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternator fan nut Message-ID: <200904121208.55363.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Hello, I am trying to remove the pulley/fan from my 72 Alernator. It is a Delco/Remy version. The nut is a 15/16 around what looks like to be a 5/16 allen screw. I put the pulley in a vice and the nut turns but does not loosen. I then attached a 5/16 allen socket to the allen screw put that in a vice and tried to turn the 15/16 nut with a very large box wrench and BFH. The 15/16 nut does not move! I am afraid of breaking the allen socket if I get a bigger hammer. I am trying to turn the nut counter - clockwise. Is that correct? Any other methods to remove that nut, bolt so the pulley / fan can be removed? Thanks, Bob From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Apr 12 10:41:07 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 16:41:07 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Alternator fan nut In-Reply-To: <200904121208.55363.yellowtr@adelphia.net> References: <200904121208.55363.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF51590AC@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bob, it does undo as normal by turning counter clockwise and the easiest way to get it on and off is with an impact wrench. If you don't have the required tools (compressor + wrench + impact socket) perhaps a buddy or neighbor has one or take it to a local shop. It will take 10 seconds to loosen it. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 12:09 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Alternator fan nut Hello, I am trying to remove the pulley/fan from my 72 Alernator. It is a Delco/Remy version. The nut is a 15/16 around what looks like to be a 5/16 allen screw. I put the pulley in a vice and the nut turns but does not loosen. I then attached a 5/16 allen socket to the allen screw put that in a vice and tried to turn the 15/16 nut with a very large box wrench and BFH. The 15/16 nut does not move! I am afraid of breaking the allen socket if I get a bigger hammer. I am trying to turn the nut counter - clockwise. Is that correct? Any other methods to remove that nut, bolt so the pulley / fan can be removed? Thanks, Bob From ajw at golden.net Sun Apr 12 12:56:09 2009 From: ajw at golden.net (john weir) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 14:56:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Stuck Main Bearing-Solved Message-ID: <6E2F7996D0F1421EBCDB3217A3FA3D27@weir> A fresh start this morning must have re-aligned the stars and moon(s). A sleepless night thinking of ALL the options short of the use of TNT, a fresh cup of coffee and way we went along trails unknown. All went back together with all your help and suggestions. BTW, the oilway is 5/32" and a drill bit did the job. Just waiting on the oil pan gasket to cure and the GRAND START-UP will commence. Thanks again for all the help and Happy Easter. John I'm doing #3 main bearing and started with #4 and the Thrust washers. No problem with them. But I just can't get the top of #3 past half way around. It's now stuck. I stopped before I did some damage. Tried tapping (with an alum. bar). Turning with the crankshaft rotating and using the oil way and pin as a push. Loosening up #4 and #2 for some slack but with no luck. Using Permatex red goop for assembly lube. Now it's stuck (#3 top half). What is best to do? Loosen #1? Con rods went well. And now in the final stretch. Please help. Maybe a 2 LB. mallet is in order. Many thanks John Greasy and frustrated. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 12 13:36:26 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 19:36:26 GMT Subject: [6pack] Stuck Main Bearing-Solved Message-ID: John---It's good that you got the bearing shell out, but tell us all what you think the problem was! Dick -----Original Message----- From: john weir Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 11:56 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Stuck Main Bearing-Solved A fresh start this morning must have re-aligned the stars and moon(s). A sleepless night thinking of ALL the options short of the use of TNT, a fresh cup of coffee and way we went along trails unknown. All went back together with all your help and suggestions. BTW, the oilway is 5/32" and a drill bit did the job. Just waiting on the oil pan gasket to cure and the GRAND START-UP will commence. Thanks again for all the help and Happy Easter. John I'm doing #3 main bearing and started with #4 and the Thrust washers. No problem with them. But I just can't get the top of #3 past half way around. It's now stuck. I stopped before I did some damage. Tried tapping (with an alum. bar). Turning with the crankshaft rotating and using the oil way and pin as a push. Loosening up #4 and #2 for some slack but with no luck. Using Permatex red goop for assembly lube. Now it's stuck (#3 top half). What is best to do? Loosen #1? Con rods went well. And now in the final stretch. Please help. Maybe a 2 LB. mallet is in order. Many thanks John Greasy and frustrated. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 12 17:16:26 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 19:16:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Car Show & TV Show Message-ID: <85E9754AE94446819AF817A32B21874A@BOBSNEWPC> They be filming an episode of Chasing Classic Cars at this car show. If you're in the 6-Pack or BCF Forum you should have already seen this but if not.......... here's your chance to attend a great show and maybe get your car in an episode of Chasing Classic Cars. F40 Motorsports http://www.f40.com/ is about 4 miles from the bridge in Middletown CT on route 66 (Cobalt Rd) and very easy to get to. Plus he has some very cool cars in his showroom. Unfortunately, I'll be attending my granddaughter's first communion in Maryland on that day. Let's have a Triumph invasion and hopefully get some cars on the TV show! Here's what his site says: "Open House at F40 Motor Sports. Spring is here what better way to kick off the spring/summer than F40 Motor Sports Annual open house. We will be filming a show for "Chasing Classic Cars" Bring your beautiful Automobiles and come admire others. Starts at 10AM and goes until 3PM. It is open to the public, and we look forward to seeing everyone at our open house. Subject to change due to weather condition, will post if the date changes. " Bob....... bummed cuz he can't attend! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From robert.breazeale at gmail.com Sun Apr 12 19:27:10 2009 From: robert.breazeale at gmail.com (Robert Breazeale) Date: Sun, 12 Apr 2009 18:27:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Brake bleeding problem Message-ID: Happy Easter to everyone! I'm always reading the list, but seldomly post. I'm in need of some friendly advice. I'm having problems getting the brake fluid bled on my 250. All parts are new except the booster. New/rebuilt master from TRF, new brake lines, new o-rings on the PDWA piston, calipers rebuilt by (can't remember, someone professionally I sent them to in Oregon), new rear wheel cylinders from Vicky-Brit. I'm even using the Speed-Bleeders. I can get the entire system bled with no air bubbles coming out. I started with right rear first, then left rear, then front right, then front left. I am using Dot-5 silicone. I did have a few minor leaks, I've gone back through and made sure all connections are tight. I've even let everything sit for two days and gone back and done the bleeding again. I can't get the system to hold any pressure, the brake pedal has some resistence but not much. I did notice that when I bench bled the master it seemed odd that the larger compartment wanted to always "siphon" back air unless I plugged the return when releasing the piston. Could I have a defective master? Is it something obvious I'm missing? Any help is greatly appreciated. Kind regards, - Bob - From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 13 08:00:54 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 07:00:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Brake bleeding problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759012492@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Robert: Sounds like your master is bad right out of the box.... Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Breazeale Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 6:27 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Brake bleeding problem I did notice that when I bench bled the master it seemed odd that the larger compartment wanted to always "siphon" back air unless I plugged the return when releasing the piston. Could I have a defective master? Is it something obvious I'm missing? Any help is greatly appreciated. Kind regards, - Bob - From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Apr 13 09:23:02 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 15:23:02 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Alternator fan nut Message-ID: <1313154187-1239636212-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2118635655-@bxe1165.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Bob, I tried my 72 Delco pretty muich the same way and failed. Ended up buying a new pulley with the Bosch upgrade. I guess they weld themselves together with age / use. The only things I can think of that you don't mention is lots of aero kroil and let it sink in or heat to nut to see if you can break the lock. Lou 72 Pimento TR6 ------Original Message------ From: Bob Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Apr 12, 2009 11:08 AM Subject: [6pack] Alternator fan nut Hello, I am trying to remove the pulley/fan from my 72 Alernator. It is a Delco/Remy version. The nut is a 15/16 around what looks like to be a 5/16 allen screw. I put the pulley in a vice and the nut turns but does not loosen. I then attached a 5/16 allen socket to the allen screw put that in a vice and tried to turn the 15/16 nut with a very large box wrench and BFH. The 15/16 nut does not move! I am afraid of breaking the allen socket if I get a bigger hammer. I am trying to turn the nut counter - clockwise. Is that correct? Any other methods to remove that nut, bolt so the pulley / fan can be removed? Thanks, Bob _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From sakirsis at consolidated.net Mon Apr 13 12:14:14 2009 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 13:14:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Message-ID: <1200E2F63B1C4B7D9471A7342744E800@stevekirsisPC> Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my '70 TR-6, seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? Will a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Apr 13 13:15:51 2009 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 15:15:51 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <1200E2F63B1C4B7D9471A7342744E800@stevekirsisPC> Message-ID: <20090413191551.XHA8G.129618.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Steve; Got a TRF (Lucas?) part number? Checked eBay? Dave '74 Six ---- Steve Kirsis wrote: > Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my '70 TR-6, > seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? Will > a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From YYCTR6 at shaw.ca Mon Apr 13 13:22:33 2009 From: YYCTR6 at shaw.ca (Dave More) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 13:22:33 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <20090413191551.XHA8G.129618.root@hrndva-web10-z02> References: <1200E2F63B1C4B7D9471A7342744E800@stevekirsisPC> <20090413191551.XHA8G.129618.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: Steve, you may want to check http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6greenbook/32.php. Probably EU28 or EU29? ----- Original Message ----- From: Dave Date: Monday, April 13, 2009 1:14 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>, Steve Kirsis > Steve; > > Got a TRF (Lucas?) part number? Checked eBay? > > Dave > '74 Six > > ---- Steve Kirsis wrote: > > Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer > for my '70 TR-6, > > seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of > any sources? Will > > a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as yyctr6 at shaw.ca From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Mon Apr 13 13:26:29 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 13:26:29 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <20090413191551.XHA8G.129618.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: <35182EEB7A2A4517AAF779ED94E9C191@nmsu.edu> Steve, Enquiring minds want to know... Unless you are building a concourse car, why the HELL would you want that buzzer?? Kevin L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 1:16 PM To: 6pack; Steve Kirsis Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Steve; Got a TRF (Lucas?) part number? Checked eBay? Dave '74 Six ---- Steve Kirsis wrote: > Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my '70 TR-6, > seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? Will > a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 13 13:27:08 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 12:27:08 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <1200E2F63B1C4B7D9471A7342744E800@stevekirsisPC> References: <1200E2F63B1C4B7D9471A7342744E800@stevekirsisPC> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957590127A7@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Steve: eBay item number: 280279319450 Dunno if you want to pay that much though... Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Kirsis Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:14 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my '70 TR-6, seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? Will a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 13 13:31:45 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 12:31:45 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer References: <1200E2F63B1C4B7D9471A7342744E800@stevekirsisPC> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957590127B1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Steve: Here is another eBay item for you: 330319442154 It did not sell (the auction closed without selling), so you might toss this guy an email and see if he still has it. It is for a bit later TR6 however (later commission numbers). It is cheaper than the earlier buzzer, and looks identical. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Kirsis Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:14 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my '70 TR-6, seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? Will a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 _______________________________________________ From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Mon Apr 13 13:38:40 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 13:38:40 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957590127B1@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <9A1051130315470499964AB9DB914183@nmsu.edu> Steve, All seriousness aside- I looked at this one that Vance sent you the e-bay notice on- my car still has one. I have NO IDEA if it works or not. Send me a private e-mail with your address, I'll send it to you for free. You can just owe me the postage. Kevin L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 1:32 PM To: Steve Kirsis; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Steve: Here is another eBay item for you: 330319442154 It did not sell (the auction closed without selling), so you might toss this guy an email and see if he still has it. It is for a bit later TR6 however (later commission numbers). It is cheaper than the earlier buzzer, and looks identical. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Kirsis Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 11:14 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my '70 TR-6, seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? Will a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 13 14:01:23 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 13:01:23 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <20090413191551.XHA8G.129618.root@hrndva-web10-z02> Message-ID: <171093.76344.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com> it might still be on my car (72) somewhere. tell me what it looks like and where to look. i'd be happy to send it to you. i guarantee you i will NEVER use it! --- On Mon, 4/13/09, Dave wrote: From: Dave Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "Steve Kirsis" Date: Monday, April 13, 2009, 2:15 PM Steve; Got a TRF (Lucas?) part number? Checked eBay? Dave '74 Six ---- Steve Kirsis wrote: > Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my '70 TR-6, > seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? Will > a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 > _______________________________________________ From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 13 17:20:47 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 16:20:47 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer References: <171093.76344.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <005e01c9bc8e$7a5e7b40$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> It is a round silver cylinder mounted under dash in front to right of steering column. There is 1 mounting screw into dash front, 2 wire connections on the back side. ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer > it might still be on my car (72) somewhere. tell me what it looks like and > where to look. i'd be happy to send it to you. i guarantee you i will NEVER > use it! > > --- On Mon, 4/13/09, Dave wrote: > > From: Dave > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "Steve Kirsis" > > Date: Monday, April 13, 2009, 2:15 PM > > Steve; > > Got a TRF (Lucas?) part number? Checked eBay? > > Dave > '74 Six > > ---- Steve Kirsis wrote: > > Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my > '70 TR-6, > > seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? > Will > > a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.12160 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12160 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Apr 13 14:48:09 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 20:48:09 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Message-ID: <515832521-1239655715-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-618334624-@bxe1009.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I disconnected mine, drives you nuts when you are working on the car key on - door open. ------Original Message------ From: Bob Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: sumton at sbcglobal.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Apr 13, 2009 6:20 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer It is a round silver cylinder mounted under dash in front to right of steering column. There is 1 mounting screw into dash front, 2 wire connections on the back side. ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 1:01 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer > it might still be on my car (72) somewhere. tell me what it looks like and > where to look. i'd be happy to send it to you. i guarantee you i will NEVER > use it! > > --- On Mon, 4/13/09, Dave wrote: > > From: Dave > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "Steve Kirsis" > > Date: Monday, April 13, 2009, 2:15 PM > > Steve; > > Got a TRF (Lucas?) part number? Checked eBay? > > Dave > '74 Six > > ---- Steve Kirsis wrote: > > Hi gang, I am looking for early model ignition warning buzzer for my > '70 TR-6, > > seems it is a very rare item. Does anyone out there know of any sources? > Will > > a generic auto parts store buzzer do it? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 > > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.12160 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12160 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Mon Apr 13 15:27:07 2009 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:27:07 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Brake bleeding problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <278504.88790.qm@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bob You may get some other advise from some of the folks on this list, but here is my $ 02. Make sure the battery is disconnected, use a broom stick or some other form of pusher from the front of the sit to the brake pedal. Make sure it depresses the pedal at least half way. Leave it this way for a day or two. If there is any air it should work its way back to the Master. Dale ________________________________ From: Robert Breazeale To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 9:27:10 PM Subject: [6pack] Brake bleeding problem Happy Easter to everyone! I'm always reading the list, but seldomly post. I'm in need of some friendly advice. I'm having problems getting the brake fluid bled on my 250. All parts are new except the booster. New/rebuilt master from TRF, new brake lines, new o-rings on the PDWA piston, calipers rebuilt by (can't remember, someone professionally I sent them to in Oregon), new rear wheel cylinders from Vicky-Brit. I'm even using the Speed-Bleeders. I can get the entire system bled with no air bubbles coming out. I started with right rear first, then left rear, then front right, then front left. I am using Dot-5 silicone. I did have a few minor leaks, I've gone back through and made sure all connections are tight. I've even let everything sit for two days and gone back and done the bleeding again. I can't get the system to hold any pressure, the brake pedal has some resistence but not much. I did notice that when I bench bled the master it seemed odd that the larger compartment wanted to always "siphon" back air unless I plugged the return when releasing the piston. Could I have a defective master? Is it something obvious I'm missing? Any help is greatly appreciated. Kind regards, - Bob - _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Apr 13 15:55:25 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 14:55:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer Message-ID: <514601.54351.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> UH??? There must be a reason no one I have ever seen with a 1970 TR 6 has an operating ignition warning buzzer. As a matter of fact I didn't know mine even came with one. I have to reiterate Kevin's question "why the HELL would you want that buzzer??". Inquiring minds want to know. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR 6 without buzzer From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 13 16:00:24 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 15:00:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <514601.54351.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <514601.54351.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759012917@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mike: Concours events only, I suppose. Although I do appreciate the fact that my car buzzes if I leave the keys in the ignition. Just wish it would buzz when I leave the headlights on. Doh! Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 2:55 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer UH??? There must be a reason no one I have ever seen with a 1970 TR 6 has an operating ignition warning buzzer. As a matter of fact I didn't know mine even came with one. I have to reiterate Kevin's question "why the HELL would you want that buzzer??". Inquiring minds want to know. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR 6 without buzzer From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Apr 13 16:06:20 2009 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 23:06:20 +0100 Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer References: <514601.54351.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Michael Lunsford wrote: > UH??? There must be a reason no one I have ever seen with a 1970 TR 6 has an > operating ignition warning buzzer. As a matter of fact I didn't know mine > even came with one. I have to reiterate Kevin's question "why the HELL would > you want that buzzer??". Inquiring minds want to know. Blame it on the Federal Bureau of Safety Standards - or whatever it called itself then. An ignition warning buzzer was a Federal requirement for the 1970 model year and factory fitted. Noisy as hell and I'm not surprised they've all been disconnected! Jonmac From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Apr 13 16:12:32 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 18:12:32 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer In-Reply-To: <514601.54351.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <514601.54351.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 13 Apr 2009, michael lunsford wrote: > UH??? There must be a reason no one I have ever seen with a 1970 TR 6 has an > operating ignition warning buzzer. As a matter of fact I didn't know mine > even came with one. I have to reiterate Kevin's question "why the HELL would > you want that buzzer??". Inquiring minds want to know. Actually, if you look in your original owner manual, there should be a section on the seatbelt interlock system... I can't recall if my 70 had one, but I know the 74 did. A lot of folks disabled / removed these back in the day because they felt that wearing a seatbelt was a waste of time or too restrictive or too BIG BROTHER (How dare the GOVERNMENT TELL ME WHAT TO DO! Usually right before the SPLAT on the grill of an 18 wheeler, I might add). But it turns out that a more common reason to disable them was that in certain contitions, the seat belt interlock would be blamed for no-start conditions and other electrical problems - not that a TRIUMPH would ever have an electrical problem, I might add. But one or two no-starts 'cause your seat belt wasn't fastened and most hairy chested males would have had it with that stupid buzzer. And out it went! I won't say whether there's a correlation between botched seat belt interlock repairs and fire / smoke from the dash though. That'd be a stretch. NOT. :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From trglory at verizon.net Mon Apr 13 18:10:45 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 20:10:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Another reason for dumping it was that if you were foolish enough to put your bag of groceries in the passenger seat (where else would you put it in a TR6?) then you were faced with a serious case of noise and a good deal of laughter and mocking from the Mustang full of teenyboppers sitting next to you at the red light. Joe -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 6:13 PM To: michael lunsford Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Warning buzzer On Mon, 13 Apr 2009, michael lunsford wrote: > UH??? There must be a reason no one I have ever seen with a 1970 TR 6 has an > operating ignition warning buzzer. As a matter of fact I didn't know mine > even came with one. I have to reiterate Kevin's question "why the HELL would > you want that buzzer??". Inquiring minds want to know. Actually, if you look in your original owner manual, there should be a section on the seatbelt interlock system... I can't recall if my 70 had one, but I know the 74 did. A lot of folks disabled / removed these back in the day because they felt that wearing a seatbelt was a waste of time or too restrictive or too BIG BROTHER (How dare the GOVERNMENT TELL ME WHAT TO DO! Usually right before the SPLAT on the grill of an 18 wheeler, I might add). But it turns out that a more common reason to disable them was that in certain contitions, the seat belt interlock would be blamed for no-start conditions and other electrical problems - not that a TRIUMPH would ever have an electrical problem, I might add. But one or two no-starts 'cause your seat belt wasn't fastened and most hairy chested males would have had it with that stupid buzzer. And out it went! I won't say whether there's a correlation between botched seat belt interlock repairs and fire / smoke from the dash though. That'd be a stretch. NOT. :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From DLylis at aol.com Mon Apr 13 18:46:18 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 20:46:18 EDT Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer Message-ID: Gee Vance, if it stops buzzing you will know you left the headlights on. What more do you want? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Why pay full price? Check out this month's deals on the new AOL Shopping. (http://shopping.aol.com/?ncid=emlcntinstor00000001) From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 13 22:03:37 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 21:03:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer Message-ID: <003401c9bcb5$fd781e60$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> > Oliver, > No thanks appreciate the offer, I answered your post because mine works in > my '70 and you asked for location. > Someone else is looking for one. > Bob > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "oliver" > To: "Bob" > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 5:21 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer > > hi, bob. > > round, metal cylinder, about 2 inches long, about 3/4 in diameter. metal > > tab on one end, electrical tabs on the other. its taped up there. no > idea > > if it works. you want it? > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bob" > > To: ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 6:20 PM > > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer > > > It is a round silver cylinder mounted under dash in front to right of > > > steering column. > > > There is 1 mounting screw into dash front, 2 wire connections on the > back > > > side. > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > > From: "oliver" > > > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > > > Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 1:01 PM > > > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ignition warning buzzer > > >> it might still be on my car (72) somewhere. tell me what it looks like > > > and > > >> where to look. i'd be happy to send it to you. i guarantee you i will E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12160 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From sakirsis at consolidated.net Mon Apr 13 19:13:36 2009 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 20:13:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Buzzer Message-ID: <797565E9DFEA4B21BCCBE804917499E5@stevekirsisPC> Thanks Boyz for all the imput but there is a story behind this as I looked at a schematic because my courtesy light was not working and it looks like you need the the missing buzzer to power the light. I could very easily be wrong. The door switch is good as the tunnel lamp works great. Am I reading the schematic right? This is a very early 1970. Thanks for the imput. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Apr 13 19:16:49 2009 From: lfm614 at aol.com ( ) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 01:16:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Buzzer Message-ID: <501512316-1239671834-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2031687029-@bxe1009.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Light works without the buzzer on my 72, buzzer is disconnected. Maybe wired differently 2 years later. Lou ------Original Message------ From: Steve Kirsis Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Apr 13, 2009 8:13 PM Subject: [6pack] Buzzer Thanks Boyz for all the imput but there is a story behind this as I looked at a schematic because my courtesy light was not working and it looks like you need the the missing buzzer to power the light. I could very easily be wrong. The door switch is good as the tunnel lamp works great. Am I reading the schematic right? This is a very early 1970. Thanks for the imput. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 13 19:25:31 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 20:25:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Buzzer References: <501512316-1239671834-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2031687029-@bxe1009.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <000d01c9bc9f$f1362810$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> light works; buzzer disconnected; very late 72 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Steve Kirsis" ; "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 8:16 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Buzzer > Light works without the buzzer on my 72, buzzer is disconnected. Maybe > wired differently 2 years later. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: Steve Kirsis > Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net > To: TR-6 list > Sent: Apr 13, 2009 8:13 PM > Subject: [6pack] Buzzer > > Thanks Boyz for all the imput but there is a story behind this as I looked > at > a schematic because my courtesy light was not working and it looks like > you > need the the missing buzzer to power the light. I could very easily be > wrong. > The door switch is good as the tunnel lamp works great. Am I reading the > schematic right? This is a very early 1970. Thanks for the imput. Steve > Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Apr 13 23:42:31 2009 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 22:42:31 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Buzzer References: <797565E9DFEA4B21BCCBE804917499E5@stevekirsisPC> Message-ID: <004301c9bcc3$cde71d50$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com> Hi Steve, I have a '70, light and buzzer both work. Schematic shows switch will turn on light without buzzer connected. I'll send you pic direct. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Steve Kirsis" To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, April 13, 2009 6:13 PM Subject: [6pack] Buzzer > Thanks Boyz for all the imput but there is a story behind this as I looked at > a schematic because my courtesy light was not working and it looks like you > need the the missing buzzer to power the light. I could very easily be wrong. > The door switch is good as the tunnel lamp works great. Am I reading the > schematic right? This is a very early 1970. Thanks for the imput. Steve > Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net > > > > > E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) > Database version: 5.12160 > http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386) Database version: 5.12160 http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/ From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 13 21:22:15 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 03:22:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Every shop should have one Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59C9A7F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> A friend sent me this link featuring Jay Leno and a shop local to him that can duplicate complex 3D parts, even moving parts. They glossed over some important details but it was still an interesting demo. Just what Rick P needs to go with his CNC machine. http://widgets.nbc.com/o/47f1317f105123ad/498ebd00a62edaa0/47fe70d4555df05a/9 e46bd46/-cpid/ba4377d3bfd6c81 Stan From EDENMA at aol.com Mon Apr 13 21:35:22 2009 From: EDENMA at aol.com (EDENMA at aol.com) Date: Mon, 13 Apr 2009 23:35:22 EDT Subject: [6pack] Warning buzzer Message-ID: Another reason for dumping it was that if you were foolish enough to put your bag of groceries in the passenger seat (where else would you put it in a TR6?) ............................................................................ .......................................................................... What are you talking about? Back when my six was my daily driver I used to be able to squeeze 6 bags of groceries behind the seats! I could even get 4 more in the passenger foot well (or three cases of cereal malt beverages!) Cheers! Mark **************The Average US Credit Score is 692. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621489x1201450100/aol?redir=http:%2F%2Fwww.freecreditreport.com%2Fpm%2Fdefault.aspx%3Fsc%3D668072%26h mpgID%3D62%26bcd%3DAprilAvgfooterNO62) From patton at suscom-maine.net Mon Apr 13 22:02:05 2009 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 00:02:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Every shop should have one In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59C9A7F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59C9A7F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <49E40ABD.4090205@suscom-maine.net> Stan, It was love at first sight! Rick Patton http://pattonmachine.com/ 75 TR6sci 74 TVR 2500M Foster, Stan (HP IT) wrote: > A friend sent me this link featuring Jay Leno and a shop local to him that can > duplicate complex 3D parts, even moving parts. They glossed over some > important details but it was still an interesting demo. Just what Rick P needs > to go with his CNC machine. > > > http://widgets.nbc.com/o/47f1317f105123ad/498ebd00a62edaa0/47fe70d4555df05a/9 > e46bd46/-cpid/ba4377d3bfd6c81 > > > Stan From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Tue Apr 14 10:57:23 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 09:57:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> I'm in the process of buying a TR6 that has been kept indoors but has not been moved in over 10 years. The rear brakes appear to be frozen to the drums. What are the steps and methods to follow to unfreeze these so I can at least tow it home? Mike From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 14 11:28:10 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 10:28:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mike: Does your wife know you are bringing another TR6 home? (Honeeeeey! I'm back, and look what followed me home...") I would imagine that the process is similar to unsticking a clutch plate. For the clutch, bumping the starter motor a few times (clutch pedal depressed, parking brake set, car in 4th gear) seems to be pretty reliable. So for the rear brakes, I would say release the parking brake, put the tranny in first, let out the clutch, take your foot off the brake pedal, then bump the starter a few times. If that doesn't work, put it in reverse (lower gearing in reverse) and repeat. I gotta believe they will pop loose with just a bit of effort. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 9:57 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes I'm in the process of buying a TR6 that has been kept indoors but has not been moved in over 10 years. The rear brakes appear to be frozen to the drums. What are the steps and methods to follow to unfreeze these so I can at least tow it home? Mike From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Apr 14 11:49:37 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:49:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: Why not tow it home backwards. We've had this discussion before, and I believe you're not suppose to tow one with the rear wheels turning unless you've disconnected the drive shaft. Anyway, just a quick suggestion. Sloane :) > > I'm in the process of buying a TR6 that has been kept indoors but has > not been moved in over 10 years. The rear brakes appear to be frozen > to the drums. What are the steps and methods to follow to unfreeze > these so I can at least tow it home? _________________________________________________________________ Hotmail. is up to 70% faster. Now good news travels really fast. http://windowslive.com/online/hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_70faster_032009 From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Apr 14 11:56:47 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 17:56:47 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59C9C0E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> If you have the time (an hour ?) why not remove the rear wheels, back off the adjuster and see if you can tap the drums off. Who knows what is going on in there until you look ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 12:57 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes I'm in the process of buying a TR6 that has been kept indoors but has not been moved in over 10 years. The rear brakes appear to be frozen to the drums. What are the steps and methods to follow to unfreeze these so I can at least tow it home? Mike From k6na at cts.com Tue Apr 14 12:05:27 2009 From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 11:05:27 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.cor p.intel.com> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <20090414180419.99ECE603E@glatton.concentric.com> Vance's ideas are good, but may be overlooking the fact that the car hasn't run for ten years. Mike may have to do quite a few other things to it, just to get the engine to turn over, or to bump the starter, etc. For now, he just wants to get it out of there. I think it's safe to assume that the shoes are stuck because the owner had the E-brake on for the duration. To fix it on one of my cars, I had to lube all the cable linkage from the handbrake to the levers on the wheel cylinders, and work everything by hand a bit to get them to move, allowing the shoes to relax (release handbrake handle of course, too). --Glenn/San Diego 74x3 At 10:28 AM 4/14/2009, Vance wrote: > > I would imagine that the process is similar to unsticking a > clutch plate. For >the clutch, bumping the starter motor a few times (clutch pedal depressed, >parking brake set, car in 4th gear) seems to be pretty reliable. > So for the rear brakes, I would say release the parking > brake, put the tranny >in first, let out the clutch, take your foot off the brake pedal, then bump >the starter a few times. If that doesn't work, put it in reverse (lower >gearing in reverse) and repeat. >-----Original Message----- >Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes > >I'm in the process of buying a TR6 that has been kept indoors but has >not been moved in over 10 years. The rear brakes appear to be frozen >to the drums. What are the steps and methods to follow to unfreeze >these so I can at least tow it home? From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Tue Apr 14 12:33:27 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 11:33:27 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCC@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Oh Noble One of Great Insight and Wisdom (Vance), She sort of knows about it. The purchase of a project car can be a delicate dance that has some defined steps. 1. You make her aware of the car 2. You tell her you're thinking of buying it with your buddy, Berry. 3. You let her know you are buying it 4. She says, "Oh just do whatever you want" 5. You listen only to the words and not the inflection in her voice 6. She sees the entry in the check book 7. She has to transfer money from savings to cover the check (strategic error on my part) 8. She sees the tow truck backing down the driveway with car in tow 9. She makes an appropriate observation 10. You listen only to the words and not the inflection in her voice 11. You go out to the shop, pop a beer and life is good I just got the word this morning that we just completed step 7. At the moment, the car doesn't start. It hasn't run for the 10 plus years. We were able to turn the engine over by hand, but the starter solenoid seems to be sticking. I was thinking about tying a tow rope to it and perhaps trying to drag it a little to free the brakes up. Mike From Btp44 at aol.com Tue Apr 14 13:25:05 2009 From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 15:25:05 EDT Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes Message-ID: Step 12 might also be that spouse has left the phone book open to the divorce attorney section or home remodelers. berry **************Access 350+ FREE radio stations anytime from anywhere on the web. Get the Radio Toolbar! (http://toolbar.aol.com/aolradio/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000002) From fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com Tue Apr 14 13:29:53 2009 From: fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com (Jeff Fetner) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 09:29:53 -1000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCC@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <7617FE69B6A448768C43D78B3D03056F@HP> Mike, I agree with Stan. I've moved two TR6s that sat for a long time, and I had to remove the tire, back the adjustor off, and finally tap the drum off to get the rear wheels free. The brake fluid turned to crud and froze the shoes in position. I wanted to actually see that the shoes were completely free of the drums - otherwise they might heat up during the tow. I ended up using a roll-back, but still had to free the drums to get the car on the truck bed. You could use one of those trucks that lifts one end up and\/or uses dollys under the wheels. Jeff 3xTR6 From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Tue Apr 14 14:27:00 2009 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 16:27:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCC@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> <7617FE69B6A448768C43D78B3D03056F@HP> Message-ID: <9C5C01D34A6641869AA01EF7866CE601@hp> I had to remove the drums after the Dumb current owner left it parked with the E brake on for a couple of years.....So I ended up replacing the shoes and cylinders....while I had it apart.... Bob From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Apr 14 14:34:40 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:34:40 GMT Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes Message-ID: Michael---I would agree with those who suggested that the rear wheels be removed, the adjusters backed off a few clicks (counterclockwise as you face the inside of each wheel), take out the two countersunk screws, then bang outward on the brake drum(s) with something forceful. To see if your attempt was sucessful, temporarily replace a wheel to see if this one side will turn. Good luck with the 12 step program! Dick -----Original Message----- From: Corbitt, Michael Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 9:57 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes I'm in the process of buying a TR6 that has been kept indoors but has not been moved in over 10 years. The rear brakes appear to be frozen to the drums. What are the steps and methods to follow to unfreeze these so I can at least tow it home? Mike 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 14 14:46:37 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 13:46:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes In-Reply-To: <9C5C01D34A6641869AA01EF7866CE601@hp> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCC@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> <7617FE69B6A448768C43D78B3D03056F@HP> <9C5C01D34A6641869AA01EF7866CE601@hp> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083CDB@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Robert: So I gotta ask; What makes this problem so difficult compared to a stuck clutch? Perhaps the eBrake cables rust, so that the shoes will not release? The clutch (I would think) has all the same potential hydraulic issues - rusty slave cylinder, fluid turning into pudding, friction material sticking to iron, blah, blah, blah. Yet the brake problem will seemingly not respond to a couple of nudges to free the shoes (based on the personal stories shared with the list). Inquiring minds want to know what makes the brakes so much harder than the clutch? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert McBride Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 1:27 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes I had to remove the drums after the Dumb current owner left it parked with the E brake on for a couple of years.....So I ended up replacing the shoes and cylinders....while I had it apart.... Bob From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Apr 14 14:55:35 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 20:55:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083CDB@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCC@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> <7617FE69B6A448768C43D78B3D03056F@HP> <9C5C01D34A6641869AA01EF7866CE601@hp> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083CDB@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59C9CB9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I think the big difference is the handbrake mechanism seizing up with the brake applied. That is another level of stick compared to a clutch plate. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 4:47 PM To: Robert McBride; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes Robert: So I gotta ask; What makes this problem so difficult compared to a stuck clutch? Perhaps the eBrake cables rust, so that the shoes will not release? The clutch (I would think) has all the same potential hydraulic issues - rusty slave cylinder, fluid turning into pudding, friction material sticking to iron, blah, blah, blah. Yet the brake problem will seemingly not respond to a couple of nudges to free the shoes (based on the personal stories shared with the list). Inquiring minds want to know what makes the brakes so much harder than the clutch? Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com Tue Apr 14 17:10:34 2009 From: fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com (Jeff Fetner) Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2009 13:10:34 -1000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCB@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083B09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com><2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202170FCC@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><7617FE69B6A448768C43D78B3D03056F@HP><9C5C01D34A6641869AA01EF7866CE601@hp> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795759083CDB@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: Good question. The wheel was probably free to rotate when parked. Maybe the crystallized brake fluid crud I always seem to find around old rear brake cylinders expanded to lock it up. Maybe the lining material expands some. Jeff ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "Robert McBride" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:46 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 - Frozen rear brakes > Robert: > > So I gotta ask; What makes this problem so difficult compared to a stuck > clutch? Perhaps the eBrake cables rust, so that the shoes will not > release? > The clutch (I would think) has all the same potential hydraulic issues - > rusty > slave cylinder, fluid turning into pudding, friction material sticking to > iron, blah, blah, blah. > Yet the brake problem will seemingly not respond to a couple of nudges to > free the shoes (based on the personal stories shared with the list). > Inquiring > minds want to know what makes the brakes so much harder than the clutch? > > Vance > > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com From dncullig at us.ibm.com Wed Apr 15 12:38:50 2009 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 14:38:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) Message-ID: Hi all - Anybody else on the list(s) planning to attend The Mitty this year? I'm driving down from upstate NY and will be staying at the host hotel. It's a Jaguar weekend but I'll be there in my TR6. I'm hoping to find a way into Road Atlanta on Thursday, the practice day - any racers need an extra crew member? Thanks. Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH Soon to be dctr6 at optonline.net) From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Wed Apr 15 14:44:18 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:44:18 EDT Subject: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) Message-ID: Bobby Whitehead and I are attending. We will also be at the host hotel. Not sure what I'm going to drive over just yet. Perhaps Grape Ape, my TR 6. We plan to arrive sometime Thursday afternoon and will be at the Group 44 dinner and also helping out Tim Studdard and the Classic MotorSports Team. Hope to see you there. Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO 417-593-9503 (Cell) **************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631252x1201390195/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213968550%3B35701427%3Bh) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Wed Apr 15 16:06:11 2009 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 18:06:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hey Dennis, I'm hoping to make it to the Mitty. The 45 minute drive might require a few stops, but the lengthy drive might require a few pit stops. Look for us at Turn 5. Ashford Little '70 TR6 On Apr 15, 2009, at 2:38 PM, Dennis N Culligan wrote: > Hi all - > > > Anybody else on the list(s) planning to attend The Mitty this > > > year? I'm driving down from upstate NY and will be staying at > > > the host hotel. It's a Jaguar weekend but I'll be there in my TR6. > > > I'm hoping to find a way into Road Atlanta on Thursday, the > > > practice day - any racers need an extra crew member? Thanks. > > > Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH > Soon to be dctr6 at optonline.net) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 70tr6 at mindspring.com From tr6parts at charter.net Wed Apr 15 17:04:18 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:04:18 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090415190418.F15IH.956822.root@mp18> I figure to be there, are there any interesting tourist attractions between Greenville and Road Atlanta? I plan to be booking a tent on turn 5. I'll probably be driving 1 Bad 6. Cheers, Al From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 15 17:41:11 2009 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 16:41:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) Message-ID: <268274.54946.qm@web43134.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Sounds like if Grape Ape makes an appearance, there will be at least 2 Magenta TR6s at the Mitty...not mine, but I know of someone else that's coming with a 74. Now if we could only get Java & Topaz, we'll be all set! We'll see you cats down there...you'll see me in the commissar car! Cheers, Todd Bermudez Cincinnati, OH Too many TRs to count --- On Wed, 4/15/09, GSFuqua1 at aol.com wrote: > From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com > Subject: Re: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) > To: dncullig at us.ibm.com, 6pack at autox.team.net, triumphs at autox.team.net > Date: Wednesday, April 15, 2009, 4:44 PM > Bobby Whitehead and I are > attending. We will also be at the host hotel. > Not sure what I'm going to drive over just yet. > Perhaps Grape Ape, my TR 6. > We plan to arrive sometime Thursday afternoon and will be > at the Group 44 > dinner and also helping out Tim Studdard and the Classic > MotorSports Team. > > Hope to see you there. > > Gary Fuqua > Classic Sports Cars > Branson, MO > 417-593-9503 (Cell) > **************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b > Starting at > $479 > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631252x1201390195/aol?redir=http > :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213968550%3B35701427%3Bh) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Apr 15 19:33:37 2009 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 21:33:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <49E68AF1.5020902@bright.net> Gary and list. Please stop by our booth in the vendor area. We have a vendor, flip open sides, trailer. Inside display is t.shirts and will have tables out front with parts, suspension stuff, gear starters, brakes, stainless steel braid, etc. If you need something brought to the event, free shipping, please let me know as soon as you can. Thanks, Ted GSFuqua1 at aol.com wrote: > Bobby Whitehead and I are attending. We will also be at the host hotel. > Not sure what I'm going to drive over just yet. Perhaps Grape Ape, my TR 6. > We plan to arrive sometime Thursday afternoon and will be at the Group 44 > dinner and also helping out Tim Studdard and the Classic MotorSports Team. > > Hope to see you there. > > Gary Fuqua > Classic Sports Cars > Branson, MO > 417-593-9503 (Cell) > **************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at > $479 > (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631252x1201390195/aol?redir=http > :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213968550%3B35701427%3Bh) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > Version: 8.0.285 / Virus Database: 270.11.58/2061 - Release Date: 04/15/09 19:52:00 From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Wed Apr 15 21:39:46 2009 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 15 Apr 2009 23:39:46 EDT Subject: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) Message-ID: Sounds great to me. Let's have a party!! See you all there. Gary **************Great deals on Dellbs most popular laptops b Starting at $479 (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1220631252x1201390195/aol?redir=http :%2F%2Fad.doubleclick.net%2Fclk%3B213968550%3B35701427%3Bh) From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Thu Apr 16 10:37:17 2009 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 12:37:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Aero Kroil References: <200904091936.19377.yellowtr@adelphia.net><49f668fe0904111838s12e058b1jfe5b69464aae2cd9@mail.gmail.com><49E14D2C.4020603@maine.rr.com> <200904120825.03282.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: I received my 2 13oz cans today 12 bucks with free FedEx ground shipping.. How to get up to the cottage and work on the TR-6... Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Sunday, April 12, 2009 8:25 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Aero Kroil On Saturday 11 April 2009 22:08:44 David Friedlander wrote: > Interesting .... The Kano Labs site says: "ALL PRODUCTS PRODUCED AND > DISTRIBUTED BY KANOLABS ARE FOR INDUSTRIAL USE ONLY AND ARE > NOT INTENDED FOR RETAIL SALE, PERSONAL OR CONSUMER USE." > > Dave Friedlander > 74-Six > Dave, I did not see that disclaimer. But I filled out the offer sheet and I received my 2 cans of 16oz Aero Kroil in about 5 days. My business name was the always popular N/A. Bob From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Apr 16 13:45:11 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 19:45:11 GMT Subject: [6pack] "The Eight Stages of Restoration" Message-ID: Those that like to read about the TR6 in popular magazines should enjoy the one written by Peter Egan, in the May issue of Road&Track. Most of you know Peter as the guy who writes humorously about British cars. There's even a few caracatures of the 6 along with his story! Dick From apackard68 at att.net Thu Apr 16 14:38:37 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 13:38:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Link to "8 stages of restoration" article Message-ID: <135998.422.qm@web83808.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Thanks Dick Taylor for pointing this out to the group. I'm attaching the link to make it easy to find. This made me laugh out loud a couple times, especially having just finished mine. I would add a stage nine of continuous critiquing and improvement of the finished product, or "Correction of the outcome of one's incredible-execution-of-a-questionable-plan" phase. http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=26&article_id=7927 Andy Packard CD6746L From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Apr 16 14:39:17 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 20:39:17 +0000 Subject: [6pack] "The Eight Stages of Restoration" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://www.roadandtrack.com/article.asp?section_id=26&article_id=7927 > > Those that like to read about the TR6 in popular magazines should enjoy the > one written by Peter Egan, in the May issue of Road&Track. Most of you know > Peter as the guy who writes humorously about British cars. There's even a few > caracatures of the 6 along with his story! > > Dick > _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get quick friend updates right in your inbox. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Upda tes2_042009 From YYCTR6 at shaw.ca Thu Apr 16 14:56:11 2009 From: YYCTR6 at shaw.ca (Dave More) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 14:56:11 -0600 Subject: [6pack] "The Eight Stages of Restoration" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Peter Egan is truly one of the great automotive journalists. I've been enjoying his columns pretty much from the beginning and for several years I subscribed to R&T almost exclusively to read his column. Now with online access it's even better as you can go back through time to his other columns. In this column you can just see him salivating over his buddy's TR6 and contemplating its future! ----- Original Message ----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor Date: Thursday, April 16, 2009 1:51 pm Subject: [6pack] "The Eight Stages of Restoration" To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Those that like to read about the TR6 in popular magazines > should enjoy the > one written by Peter Egan, in the May issue of Road&Track. Most > of you know > Peter as the guy who writes humorously about British cars. > There's even a few > caracatures of the 6 along with his story! > > Dick > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as yyctr6 at shaw.ca From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com Thu Apr 16 18:46:15 2009 From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 17:46:15 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? Message-ID: <984094.14188.qm@web110407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Folks, My '6 has been sitting all winter. I happened to notice that the rear well of the MC was very low, and I topped it off. Now, some 3 weeks later, after checking it daily, it is once again empty, seemingly overnight. Very wet between the MC and the servo. In past years/cars, I have gone out and worked the brake pedal periodically to keep seals lubed and to avoid shrinking. Didn't do it this year. What's the likely culprit? Can I avoid a time-consuming, and painful MC/Servo rebuild, do you suppose? Everything was dry and tight when I put her to bed last October... Thanks in advance for any thoughts on the subject. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Apr 16 19:03:39 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 21:03:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] "The Eight Stages of Restoration" In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9F358CF14A0F4F1691691C57AB85357F@BOBSNEWPC> And here's the link to the article.... http://tinyurl.com/dfehac There's a little bit in this article for all of us! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 3:45 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] "The Eight Stages of Restoration" Those that like to read about the TR6 in popular magazines should enjoy the one written by Peter Egan, in the May issue of Road&Track. Most of you know Peter as the guy who writes humorously about British cars. There's even a few caracatures of the 6 along with his story! Dick 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Apr 16 19:06:01 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 01:06:01 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? In-Reply-To: <984094.14188.qm@web110407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <984094.14188.qm@web110407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59CA181@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Pete, if you have brake fluid streaming down the front of the servo it means the seals in the MC have failed and it is time to rebuild or just replace it with a new one. They are available and not that expensive (around $170) and pretty easy to swap out. If this has been going on for a while the servo may have a lot of fluid inside it also so that would be something else to check. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Kronberg Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 8:46 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? Folks, My '6 has been sitting all winter. I happened to notice that the rear well of the MC was very low, and I topped it off. Now, some 3 weeks later, after checking it daily, it is once again empty, seemingly overnight. Very wet between the MC and the servo. In past years/cars, I have gone out and worked the brake pedal periodically to keep seals lubed and to avoid shrinking. Didn't do it this year. What's the likely culprit? Can I avoid a time-consuming, and painful MC/Servo rebuild, do you suppose? Everything was dry and tight when I put her to bed last October... Thanks in advance for any thoughts on the subject. From fasttrs at mindspring.com Thu Apr 16 19:50:20 2009 From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 20:50:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) In-Reply-To: <20090415190418.F15IH.956822.root@mp18> Message-ID: Yes Al, Stop and see the dog on the side of 85 at mile marker 170. He is always happy to see you especially if you have doggy treats.:-) Mike http://www.triumphowners.com/135 -----Original Message----- I figure to be there, are there any interesting tourist attractions between Greenville and Road Atlanta? I plan to be booking a tent on turn 5. I'll probably be driving 1 Bad 6. Cheers, Al From srcypher at mac.com Thu Apr 16 20:58:59 2009 From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 22:58:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Harmonic Dampener Question (now studs) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <9B82BF27-AF33-4800-B4DD-38FE1291B794@mac.com> Another option, now that you know overall length, is to call ARP's specialty department, (Ask for Jay Coombs), 805-525-1497. Tell him the specifics on OAL, thread and pitch, and he can look up if they have a specific part that matches your need. Sometimes someone else does a custom run of a specific stud close to, or exactly, your needs, and they have over-run units. Thanks -Scott Cypher spitfireracer at xsmail.com SCCA #37 HP Spitfire 1500 #362573 Reading, PA http://gallery.me.com/srcypher#gallery 1971 Spit MkIV/1500 RaceCar 1971 TR6 TBD 1976 TR7 Street 1968 GT6 Vintage "I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head. Its the excitement only a free man can feel. A free man at the start of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain" On Apr 16, 2009, at 7:32 PM, Mike Munson wrote: ARP leng th is 4.843 stock is 4.75. -----Original Message----- So here's the next question: could someone please provide me with the dimensions of the ARP head studs for TR6 / GT6? Especially, the difference in the length of the ARP studs to the stock pieces. I'm trying to determine if I should bite the bullet and install a set of those or if I should just shim the pedestals to get another .020" or clearance (I'm 99% sure that's all I need. Of course I already installed the head gasket and torqued the head, so toss in a new head gasket (I presume) for good measure. Unless someone can convince me otherwise. Regards, rml ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --- Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.11.59/2063 - Release Date: 04/16/09 16:38:00 Fot mailing list Fot at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot From tom628 at verizon.net Thu Apr 16 21:38:00 2009 From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note) Date: Thu, 16 Apr 2009 23:38:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? References: <984094.14188.qm@web110407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <481CC070C8BE492EB29CDC7D7CA33544@Toms> Pete: One other long shot. I replaced my MC assy needlessly a few months ago from similar symptoms. It turned out that mine was leaking at the seal between the plastic fluid reservoir and the MC body. Servo was fine, but wet down the front. Tom ----- Original Message ----- From: "Pete Kronberg" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 16, 2009 8:46 PM Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? > Folks, > > My '6 has been sitting all winter. I happened to notice that the rear well > of > the MC was very low, and I topped it off. Now, some 3 weeks later, after > checking it daily, it is once again empty, seemingly overnight. > > Very wet between the MC and the servo. In past years/cars, I have gone out > and > worked the brake pedal periodically to keep seals lubed and to avoid > shrinking. Didn't do it this year. > > What's the likely culprit? Can I avoid a time-consuming, and painful > MC/Servo > rebuild, do you suppose? Everything was dry and tight when I put her to > bed > last October... > > Thanks in advance for any thoughts on the subject. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tom628 at verizon.net From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Apr 17 06:58:54 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 12:58:54 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Reminder: British Cars in North-West North Carolina on Saturday Message-ID: Hey guys, Just a reminder: The Triumph Club of the Carolinas hosts their yearly event 'THE GATHERING' this weekend. The car show is Saturday April 18 at Shelton Vineyards in Dobson, NC, which looks to be about 10 miles south of the Virginia state line on I-77. Registration is 8:00-Noon and the cost is $20. There is always a huge contention of TR-6s in attendance, numrious other Triumphs, and counting those dudes over there with their MGs, over 200 cars. This year's featured car is the Triumph Italia. Go to www.triumphclub.org for more info. Sloane :) 69-Six _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Now available on your iPhone or BlackBerry http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Mobi le2_042009 From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Apr 17 07:04:23 2009 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:04:23 EDT Subject: [6pack] The Mitty at Road Atlanta (4/30 - 5/3) Message-ID: Dennis, As you joined us at Road America, please stop by again at Road Atlanta. We will be near the Classic Motorsports Tent and flying the FOT Banner. Joe Alexander > Hi all - > > > Anybody else on the list(s) planning to attend The Mitty this > > > year? I'm driving down from upstate NY and will be staying at > > > the host hotel. It's a Jaguar weekend but I'll be there in my TR6. > > > I'm hoping to find a way into Road Atlanta on Thursday, the > > > practice day - any racers need an extra crew member? Thanks. > > > Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY/ 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH > Soon to be dctr6 at optonline.net) > _______________________________________________ From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Apr 17 07:57:45 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:57:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? In-Reply-To: <481CC070C8BE492EB29CDC7D7CA33544@Toms> References: <984094.14188.qm@web110407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <481CC070C8BE492EB29CDC7D7CA33544@Toms> Message-ID: On Thu, 16 Apr 2009, Tom Note wrote: > Pete: One other long shot. > I replaced my MC assy needlessly a few months ago from similar symptoms. It > turned out that mine was leaking at the seal between the plastic fluid > reservoir and the MC body. Servo was fine, but wet down the front. Good point - I've had this problem too (when the car sits for a long time). > Tom regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Apr 17 09:19:19 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 08:19:19 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? In-Reply-To: References: <984094.14188.qm@web110407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <481CC070C8BE492EB29CDC7D7CA33544@Toms> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575BA7D236@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Robert: At the risk of sounding smug (OK, I am feeling smug) I have to ask: 1. Is this DOT 4 fluid we are talking about in terms of popping leaks over the winter? 2. How many people have had this happen with DOT 5? One of the supposed advantages of DOT 5 is fewer problems for vehicles that sit idle for long periods of time. Apparently the Army likes DOT5 because so much of their inventory sits idle when we are not at war. Probably not the case for Humvees in Iraq and Afghanistan at the moment =:-o But trucks, Bradleys, etc all are inventoried and idle for long periods of time so lower maintenance is good. One obvious advantage to DOT 5 is that it is not soaking up moisture all winter, and does not corrode things after a year or two. Dunno how it performs in terms of preserving seals. Guess which fluid I am using (tee-hee). Vance Vance Navarrette Mimosa TR6 with no brake fluid leaks this spring. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Friday, April 17, 2009 6:58 AM To: Tom Note Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? On Thu, 16 Apr 2009, Tom Note wrote: > Pete: One other long shot. > I replaced my MC assy needlessly a few months ago from similar symptoms. It > turned out that mine was leaking at the seal between the plastic fluid > reservoir and the MC body. Servo was fine, but wet down the front. Good point - I've had this problem too (when the car sits for a long time). > Tom regards, rml From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Apr 17 09:53:23 2009 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 11:53:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Foreboding brake fluid leak -servo rebuild needed? In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575BA7D236@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <984094.14188.qm@web110407.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> <481CC070C8BE492EB29CDC7D7CA33544@Toms> <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575BA7D236@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 17 Apr 2009, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Robert: > > At the risk of sounding smug (OK, I am feeling smug) I have to ask: > > 1. Is this DOT 4 fluid we are talking about in terms of popping > leaks over the winter? Yes, it was DOT4. Castrol LMA. The car also sat for over 6 years. So any problems with the hydraulics were completely expected. I won't use DOT5 on any of my cars. I need dry boiling temps well in excess of whatever all the DOT5 cans I've read. My car isn't a tank, either. :-) I'd use the fancy synthetic stuff, but I'd have to buy tires too... the castrol synth stuff is $65 a quart. I use a couple of quarts every year. That works out to .5 of a tire. That's a big hit in the "budget". regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Apr 17 10:25:42 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 17 Apr 2009 09:25:42 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Harmonic Dampener Question (now studs) In-Reply-To: <9B82BF27-AF33-4800-B4DD-38FE1291B794@mac.com> References: <9B82BF27-AF33-4800-B4DD-38FE1291B794@mac.com> Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575BA7D2EB@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Mike, et. al.: An inexpensive alternative to ARP is to use grade 10 fasteners from the hardware store. These are the black oxide finish cap screws, most commonly with a hex socket head. I used these when rebuilding my mini - they are much less than the ARP stuff, as tough as can be, and available in 1/4" increments. The mini runs 11:1CR and spins up to 7,000 RPM using a stock cast crank. The bottom end is all grade 10, as are the head studs. I wish I would have thought of this when I rebuilt the TR6. Using this kind of hardware gives great piece of mind for only a few pennies more than grade 8. There is no doubt that ARP is the best, but they also charge a premium price. An alternative is grade 10 if you are looking for something stronger than plain vanilla grade 8 at a reasonable price. Cheers, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- "I'm so excited I can barely sit still or hold a thought in my head. Its the excitement only a free man can feel. A free man at the start of a long journey, whose conclusion is uncertain" On Apr 16, 2009, at 7:32 PM, Mike Munson wrote: ARP leng th is 4.843 stock is 4.75. -----Original Message----- So here's the next question: could someone please provide me with the dimensions of the ARP head studs for TR6 / GT6? Especially, the difference in the length of the ARP studs to the stock pieces. I'm trying to determine if I should bite the bullet and install a set of those or if I should just shim the pedestals to get another .020" or clearance (I'm 99% sure that's all I need. Of course I already installed the head gasket and torqued the head, so toss in a new head gasket (I presume) for good measure. Unless someone can convince me otherwise. Regards, rml From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Sat Apr 18 11:48:32 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 10:48:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Gas Tank Sending Unit Float Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C6E5@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> With my interior out for a makeover, I decided to clean and reseal the gas tank with Eastwood's kit. When I pulled the tank sending unit, I noticed the float is close to 1/3 full with gas. I can't seem to find where it's leaking in as the gas doesn't want to come back out. The gas gauge always seemed to be working okay. Should I replace this, and if so, can the float be purchased separately (I notice TRF only sells it as part of the sending unit)? Mike From fivefreyers at juno.com Sat Apr 18 16:38:44 2009 From: fivefreyers at juno.com (fivefreyers at juno.com) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 22:38:44 GMT Subject: [6pack] Gas Tank Sending Unit Float Message-ID: <20090418.153844.19086.0@webmail18.dca.untd.com> Mike, Petrol has probably seeped in over the years. Sure, you can purchase a new one, but I followed the advice from the list (I'm sure it was Vance) when I had the same issue. I set it out in the sun for a couple of weeks and it evaporated back out. Worked like a charm. I figure it took 35 years to fill. It should hold me for awhile. (Of course you're in Oregon! Who knows how long it will take for you to get enough sun to do the job!) Bret Freyer '74 Mimosa TR6 ____________________________________________________________ Get the best Criminal Lawyer. Click Here http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2131/fc/BLSrjnsMx6yUcbP8BJXasmTVCSswfNWuF yYjXXNo1ypcoCANHq86aEnqGoY/ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Apr 18 16:42:24 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 18:42:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Gas Tank Sending Unit Float In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C6E5@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C6E5@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <06141F8661354123B9613E439E448E0A@BOBSNEWPC> Another option is to go to a brass Mustang float. You can see what it looks like here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/Float2.jpg and here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/Float1.jpg It's a perfect fit and was used on any Mustang from '65-'73. I got mine from MustangsUnlimited.com and it's part #240075 Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael Sent: Saturday, April 18, 2009 1:49 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Gas Tank Sending Unit Float With my interior out for a makeover, I decided to clean and reseal the gas tank with Eastwood's kit. When I pulled the tank sending unit, I noticed the float is close to 1/3 full with gas. I can't seem to find where it's leaking in as the gas doesn't want to come back out. The gas gauge always seemed to be working okay. Should I replace this, and if so, can the float be purchased separately (I notice TRF only sells it as part of the sending unit)? Mike 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From levilevi at comcast.net Sat Apr 18 23:44:51 2009 From: levilevi at comcast.net (Bud Rolofson) Date: Sat, 18 Apr 2009 23:44:51 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Amazing model railroad Message-ID: <9D8E05DD-A3B1-4C4D-A9DB-707633DEFE0E@comcast.net> Obligatory TR content: There's a blue TR4 or TR4A, in this model railroad clip. http://dvice.com/archives/2009/03/astonishing_mos.php Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) levilevi at comcast.net From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Apr 19 13:24:05 2009 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 12:24:05 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Gas tank float and OD problem solved Message-ID: <411048.54011.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I had a similar problem with my gas gauge sending unit float and got the answer from someone on the list (thanks to whoever that was). They recommended that I take the old float off and take it down to the Ford dealer where they sell a very similar one for one of their cars. The parts guy knew by sight what I needed and got me a brass one (which is what they should have used in the first place) and charged me less than $10.00. It just snaps back into the semicircular wire lever and "bob's your uncle". On another issue I asked for advice from the list about my A type OD which would not re-engage after I had driven the car for an hour or so while using the OD. I recently found a loose connection where the OD harness on the transmission mates to the one on the steering column OD selector. In checking the connection further I discovered the problem was probably the barrell type female connector that connected the two male ends. I removed the barrel connector and discovered that the metal insert that grasps the two male ends (this is not meant as erotica though it begins to sound like it) had broken into three pieces. The result was that the three metal pieces were lying loose inside the rubber surround but still making contact with the two ends of the harness. As the connector and wires warmed up from use the rubber surrounding the metal became softer reducing the strength of the contact and causing the circuit to be unable to carry the necessary current to engage the OD. At least that's what I think was happening. Strange things happen when you are dealing with electrical parts (especially LUCAS parts) that are 40 or so years old. Mike Lunsford From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 19 14:31:12 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 16:31:12 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Vehicle dollies Message-ID: <49EB8A10.4030305@snet.net> I purchased a set of 1000lb aluminum wheel dollies form Harbor Freight so I can move my Stag around in the basement. http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=93368 With the car on the dollies, it's very difficult to move the car by myself. It actually took 4 of us to move the car sideways into a new location today. I'm looking for a recommendation on another set, that I can buy that will make movement easier. I don't mind paying more for a set that actually rolls. The basement floor is concrete. Thanks for any help. John Mitchell 72 Stag 76 TR6 From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Apr 19 15:45:47 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 17:45:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Vehicle dollies In-Reply-To: <49EB8A10.4030305@snet.net> References: <49EB8A10.4030305@snet.net> Message-ID: <0FB48EA734C54116953126655DDCD407@Robert> I bought a set a while back, yes at that time I spent $400, but that was 8 years ago. Here is the item with today's price. What I like about them is that the tires don't need to be on. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/N.Car-Dolly-Pair/PID.OTC-1572/pr odid.93534/TID.%7B460EE0EE-B96B-44A2-8505-0F3DCEAF9817%7D/qx/product.htm From n197tr4 at cs.com Sun Apr 19 15:45:57 2009 From: n197tr4 at cs.com (n197tr4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 17:45:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Vehicle dollies In-Reply-To: <0FB48EA734C54116953126655DDCD407@Robert> References: <49EB8A10.4030305@snet.net> <0FB48EA734C54116953126655DDCD407@Robert> Message-ID: <8CB8F4F5B41A82D-1358-50F@FWM-D34.sysops.aol.com> John,??I found my source......? KINGDOLLY.COM I've had for about 7 years and would buy another set.....and may do that. $289 plus shipping. Joe Alexander -----Original Message----- From: Robert Liam Gannon To: 'John Mitchell' ; 'Shop Talk List' ; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6 Pack' <6pack at Autox.Team.Net> Sent: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 4:45 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Vehicle dollies I bought a set a while back, yes at that time I spent $400, but that was 8 years ago. Here is the item with today's price. What I like about them is that the tires don't need to be on. http://www.nationaltoolwarehouse.com/xq/asp/N.Car-Dolly-Pair/PID.OTC-1572/pr odid.93534/TID.%7B460EE0EE-B96B-44A2-8505-0F3DCEAF9817%7D/qx/product.htm 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com ________________________________________________________________________ Email message sent from CompuServe - visit us today at http://www.cs.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 19 16:25:25 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 18:25:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Gas tank float and OD problem solved In-Reply-To: <411048.54011.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <411048.54011.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, That's the Mustang float that I referenced in a previous email. It's from any Mustang built between '65 & '73 " Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 3:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Gas tank float and OD problem solved I had a similar problem with my gas gauge sending unit float and got the answer from someone on the list (thanks to whoever that was). They recommended that I take the old float off and take it down to the Ford dealer where they sell a very similar one for one of their cars. The parts guy knew by sight what I needed and got me a brass one (which is what they should have used in the first place) and charged me less than $10.00. It just snaps back into the semicircular wire lever and "bob's your uncle". On another issue I asked for advice from the list about my A type OD which would not re-engage after I had driven the car for an hour or so while using the OD. I recently found a loose connection where the OD harness on the transmission mates to the one on the steering column OD selector. In checking the connection further I discovered the problem was probably the barrell type female connector that connected the two male ends. I removed the barrel connector and discovered that the metal insert that grasps the two male ends (this is not meant as erotica though it begins to sound like it) had broken into three pieces. The result was that the three metal pieces were lying loose inside the rubber surround but still making contact with the two ends of the harness. As the connector and wires warmed up from use the rubber surrounding the metal became softer reducing the strength of the contact and causing the circuit to be unable to carry the necessary current to engage the OD. At least that's what I think was happening. Strange things happen when you are dealing with electrical parts (especially LUCAS parts) that are 40 or so years old. Mike Lunsford 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Apr 19 19:34:54 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sun, 19 Apr 2009 21:34:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems Message-ID: > About a year and half ago, I put a new clutch set in the TR6, > a month or two after that the clutch fork broke. > Lately I was having a problem with the clutch engaging near the floor. ( > installed new slave cylinder ) no difference. > We found the hole in the pedal box had become elongated and put a nylon > tie > strap in there to take up the slack while I found a new pedal box.(clutch > was > working fine, although the adjustable clutch rod was an inch longer than > normal) > Today I put the new pedal box in and things are worst. > Problem going into first and reverse. > I know the adjustable rod shouldn't have to be an inch or so longer than > the > stock clutch rod. > I will be pulling the transmission sometime this week to inspect the > pressure > plate. > I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas. > > Al Salvatore > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Apr 19 20:06:53 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 02:06:53 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59CA3FE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Al, I hate to say this but it sounds an awful lot like another fractured fork pin.. Rule out all of the obvious like hydraulics and linkage and test the system by disengaging the slave rod from the lever and move the lever fully forward and then rearwards and see if you can feel that extra bit of rotation after the release bearing hits its initial limit of travel fwd or rearward. If you are going to pull the tranny anyway it may be moot. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Salvatore Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 9:35 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems > About a year and half ago, I put a new clutch set in the TR6, > a month or two after that the clutch fork broke. > Lately I was having a problem with the clutch engaging near the floor. ( > installed new slave cylinder ) no difference. > We found the hole in the pedal box had become elongated and put a nylon > tie > strap in there to take up the slack while I found a new pedal box.(clutch > was > working fine, although the adjustable clutch rod was an inch longer than > normal) > Today I put the new pedal box in and things are worst. > Problem going into first and reverse. > I know the adjustable rod shouldn't have to be an inch or so longer than > the > stock clutch rod. > I will be pulling the transmission sometime this week to inspect the > pressure > plate. > I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas. > > Al Salvatore From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 19 23:46:56 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 05:46:56 GMT Subject: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems Message-ID: Alan---I'll repeat what to look for, as the clutch system could be fuzzy, until you go thru this several times. The early six had a larger Clutch MC bore, which sent more fluid down stream. This made for a longer stroke at the Slave Cylinder to disengage the clutch, so the system was more tolerant of wear in the pedal box. From 1970 on, the CMC was smaller, by popular demand from those having bunions or perhaps wearing high heals. For your check, it is necessary to have around 1/2 inch of movement from the SLAVE cylinder pushrod when depressing the clutch. If there's appreciably less movement than this, the linkage inside the bellhousing won't disengage the clutch (or make the release point very close to the floor). Note: The "longer SC adjustable pushrod" does absolutely nothing to help the cause here The light spring behind the piston inside the SC should keep all play out of the linkage, making "adjustment for play" moot. IF you have to remove the gearbox again to replace a broken fork pin, take the extra step and add a roll pin thru the fork and the clutch operating shaft. Triumph's design to have a stressed pin in single shear was never a good idea. Dick -----Original Message----- From: Al Salvatore Sent: Sunday, April 19, 2009 6:34 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems > About a year and half ago, I put a new clutch set in the TR6, > a month or two after that the clutch fork broke. > Lately I was having a problem with the clutch engaging near the floor. ( > installed new slave cylinder ) no difference. > We found the hole in the pedal box had become elongated and put a nylon > tie > strap in there to take up the slack while I found a new pedal box.(clutch > was > working fine, although the adjustable clutch rod was an inch longer than > normal) > Today I put the new pedal box in and things are worst. > Problem going into first and reverse. > I know the adjustable rod shouldn't have to be an inch or so longer than > the > stock clutch rod. > I will be pulling the transmission sometime this week to inspect the > pressure > plate. > I was wondering if anyone had any other ideas. > > Al Salvatore > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Mon Apr 20 14:27:19 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 13:27:19 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Gas Tank Sending Unit Float Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C6EF@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Thanks for all your responses on the gas tank sending unit float. For future reference, as I learned both MGBs and old Mustangs (65-73) have floats that will work with the TR6. The MGB's is plastic while the Mustang's is brass. The local Ford dealer had one in stock for $7.41 (part number COAZ9202B). Pretty good considering it costs almost $20 on-line (with shipping). Mike From srcypher at mac.com Mon Apr 20 16:25:40 2009 From: srcypher at mac.com (Scott Cypher) Date: Mon, 20 Apr 2009 18:25:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Shop-talk Digest, Vol 3, Issue 94 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4D92ACD0-E3D7-4043-BDFF-A9E391E30C3A@mac.com> I have the hydraulic pump version of the floor dollies (http:// www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94682) as well 2 sets of the the Merrick dollies (http:// www.carolinaclassictrucks.com/Merrick_Machine.html) I like the merricks' best, cheap, easy to use. No cross bar to get in the way of jacking up just high enough to slide under the wheel. Both types roll exceptionally well. Too well, as a section of my workshop is on an incline; I would almost want a brake sometimes. I would concur with the other' inspect the casters; I suspect you will find some that roll easier than others. But the caster replacement kit indicated is pricey; It looks like you have to drill the plates for the stud, vs. just find a comparable plate topped caster. Thanks -Scott Cypher ----------------------------------------------------- Today's Topics: 1. Vehicle dollies (John Mitchell 4. Re: Vehicle dollies (Randall) ----------------------------------------------------- From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Apr 21 18:51:49 2009 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 20:51:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [OT] Classic car Jigsaw Puzzles References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF59CA3FE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <57FFB5A20CFA405DAE09010966AB2616@D1TG6Y71> [OFF TOPIC WARNING - NO TRIUMPH CONTENT] Went into my local Biglots and came across a display of Classic Car Puzzles, 750 piece, 24"x18" jigsaws. US made by a company in Royal Oak, MI. No Triumphs, but I did I pick up the Bugeye Sprite puzzle (left behind the E-type - both drop head and coupe, and the brace of racing Cobra's - and I think there was a Ferrari one as well). Going for $3 each! If you are into those marques and puzzles, might be worth checking your local BLs or Dollar Store so you can stock up on nice Xmas presents at a really good price! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From jmitch at snet.net Tue Apr 21 21:03:23 2009 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 21 Apr 2009 23:03:23 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [Shop-talk] Floor dollies In-Reply-To: <0FCEB2DF3ABE44FB827D98203B1BB88B@OFFICEPC> References: <0FCEB2DF3ABE44FB827D98203B1BB88B@OFFICEPC> Message-ID: <49EE88FB.5050704@snet.net> Well, I bit the bullet and bought a set of the Go-jak 5000 dollies. I just tried them and the difference is unbelievable. I can now move the car in any direction myself and if your not careful, it can actually get away from you. I really have to watch the lally columns now when moving. The casters are so much smoother and the plastic wheels seem to move much better over the concrete. There expensive, but in my case worth it. Thanks for everyones help. John Mitchell Mark Miller wrote: > Another thought: if you don't move things around that often you could just > live with the crappy rolling wheels on the one you have and don't push the > car around. When you need to move a vehicle that is on the dollies just > hook up a come-along between one of the dollies and an anchor in the wall in > the direction you wish to go. From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Apr 22 06:44:35 2009 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 07:44:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 on Let's Make A Deal Message-ID: <7F2D8B857CA54A28964C4294FF664BDC@Dell320> I was home watching TV on Sunday and came across the old Let's Make A Deal game show with Monty Hall on GSN. The big deal of the day featured a red TR6 behind door number 3. It was not the big deal but the total amount of that prize was $5800.00. It was a 74 - 76 model as it had the rubber bumper guards. The little lady who won it was very pleased. I'd like to make a recording of that particular show. Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Apr 22 12:17:16 2009 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 14:17:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Mitty and Import Carlilse Message-ID: <49EF5F2C.3080109@bright.net> Hello list. We have had some requests to bring specific parts to both the Walter Mitty vintage race at Road Atlanta and also to Import Carlisle. If you need parts brought to either event, please let me know as soon as you can. We are leaving for the Mitty on Wednesday, April 29. Will be in the vendor area on top of the hill. Apparel and parts both at the Mitty. We have a white, flip open side vendor trailer, with parts tables out front. For Import Carlisle -- will be in spaces E64 and 65. Will be there Thursday through Saturday with a canopy, no vendor trailer. Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From 75teer6 at gmail.com Wed Apr 22 13:24:16 2009 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 13:24:16 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Gas Tank Sending Unit Float In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C6EF@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220215C6EF@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0904221224j299d691aqfdfd8bb4af354a58@mail.gmail.com> Today I picked-up a Ford brass float, COAZ-9202-B, at a local Ford dealer in Calgary, Alberta, for $12.16 Canadian, $9.75 US equivalent. Henri On Mon, Apr 20, 2009 at 2:27 PM, Corbitt, Michael wrote: > Thanks for all your responses on the gas tank sending unit float. For future > reference, as I learned both MGBs and old Mustangs (65-73) have floats that > will work with the TR6. The MGB's is plastic while the Mustang's is brass. > The local Ford dealer had one in stock for $7.41 (part number COAZ9202B). > Pretty good considering it costs almost $20 on-line (with shipping). > > > > Mike > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com From trguy at cfl.rr.com Wed Apr 22 14:30:11 2009 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 16:30:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] brake calipers Message-ID: <000301c9c389$25163cc0$6f42b640$@rr.com> Any difference, other than the metric threads, between the early and later (16PB) front disc brake calipers? Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 CF35914U From trguy at cfl.rr.com Wed Apr 22 14:43:07 2009 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 16:43:07 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Speedo Message-ID: <000901c9c38a$f164ad60$d42e0820$@rr.com> Anyone have a good working and clean spare speedo they would be willing to part with for a reasonable price? I need to get a working odometer for TSD events. Please email off list. Thanks in advance. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 CF35914U From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Wed Apr 22 15:49:28 2009 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 15:49:28 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Speedo In-Reply-To: <000901c9c38a$f164ad60$d42e0820$@rr.com> Message-ID: <184081D953794B3582BF589FDAE03125@nmsu.edu> I have a slightly used speedo. It's clean, wife just washed it. It is a size 48" waist, and she won't let me wear it outside, so you can have it if you want it..... Kevin L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA New Mexico State University 505-646-2485 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 2:43 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Speedo Anyone have a good working and clean spare speedo they would be willing to part with for a reasonable price? I need to get a working odometer for TSD events. Please email off list. Thanks in advance. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 CF35914U 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Apr 22 16:09:25 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 22:09:25 +0000 Subject: [6pack] brake calipers In-Reply-To: <000301c9c389$25163cc0$6f42b640$@rr.com> References: <000301c9c389$25163cc0$6f42b640$@rr.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF5B2D5A1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Jim, the early 16P calipers also have different pistons, boots and boot attachment schemes from the 16PB's so they are really quite different. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 4:30 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] brake calipers Any difference, other than the metric threads, between the early and later (16PB) front disc brake calipers? Thanks in advance, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 CF35914U _______________________________________________ From trsix74 at comcast.net Wed Apr 22 16:27:57 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 18:27:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Speedo In-Reply-To: <184081D953794B3582BF589FDAE03125@nmsu.edu> References: <000901c9c38a$f164ad60$d42e0820$@rr.com> <184081D953794B3582BF589FDAE03125@nmsu.edu> Message-ID: <9A4BAC48F85D47FC861E6542E3F4D949@Robert> Snip:I have a slightly used speedo. It's clean, wife just washed it. It is a size 48" waist, and she won't let me wear it outside, so you can have it if you want it..... ad on to that: .....and I have a tach, which you can hammer into the wall to hang your speedo! From trguy at cfl.rr.com Wed Apr 22 18:02:18 2009 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Wed, 22 Apr 2009 20:02:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Speedo In-Reply-To: <9A4BAC48F85D47FC861E6542E3F4D949@Robert> References: <000901c9c38a$f164ad60$d42e0820$@rr.com> <184081D953794B3582BF589FDAE03125@nmsu.edu> <9A4BAC48F85D47FC861E6542E3F4D949@Robert> Message-ID: <001a01c9c3a6$c4e96f70$4ebc4e50$@rr.com> Is that another slightly used swim trunk?? I suppose I asked for those.... LOL jim -----Original Message----- From: Robert Liam Gannon [mailto:trsix74 at comcast.net] Sent: Wednesday, April 22, 2009 6:28 PM To: 'Kevin McNelis'; 'James Henningsen'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Speedo Snip:I have a slightly used speedo. It's clean, wife just washed it. It is a size 48" waist, and she won't let me wear it outside, so you can have it if you want it..... ad on to that: .....and I have a tach, which you can hammer into the wall to hang your speedo! From apackard68 at att.net Fri Apr 24 00:14:16 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Thu, 23 Apr 2009 23:14:16 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Richard Good hubs Message-ID: <4421F8BA-9686-4369-9371-F77D9573FDCA@att.net> Anyone out there having good experience with Richard Good's rear hubs? I was thinking of upgrading to the hub unit only that then attaches to the stock splined insert via the u-joint. Andy CD6746L From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Apr 24 06:07:49 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 08:07:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Richard Good hubs In-Reply-To: <4421F8BA-9686-4369-9371-F77D9573FDCA@att.net> References: <4421F8BA-9686-4369-9371-F77D9573FDCA@att.net> Message-ID: Andy, There's a few guys in the 6-Pack Forum that have either his upgraded hubs or his new CVJs that use that hub. I've got his CVJs and the installation was a perfect fit. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Packard Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 2:14 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Richard Good hubs Anyone out there having good experience with Richard Good's rear hubs? I was thinking of upgrading to the hub unit only that then attaches to the stock splined insert via the u-joint. Andy CD6746L 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From apackard68 at att.net Fri Apr 24 10:52:51 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 09:52:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Richard Good hubs In-Reply-To: References: <4421F8BA-9686-4369-9371-F77D9573FDCA@att.net> Message-ID: <465262.62301.qm@web83806.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bob: I understood his CVJ's to require some enlarging of the hole in the trailing arm. After reading your website, I'm going to go with the CVJ's. Thanks for documenting all that work! Andy ________________________________ From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Andrew Packard ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 5:07:49 AM Subject: RE: [6pack] Richard Good hubs Andy, There's a few guys in the 6-Pack Forum that have either his upgraded hubs or his new CVJs that use that hub. I've got his CVJs and the installation was a perfect fit. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Packard Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 2:14 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Richard Good hubs Anyone out there having good experience with Richard Good's rear hubs? I was thinking of upgrading to the hub unit only that then attaches to the stock splined insert via the u-joint. Andy CD6746L 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Apr 24 12:46:17 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 24 Apr 2009 14:46:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Richard Good hubs In-Reply-To: <465262.62301.qm@web83806.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <4421F8BA-9686-4369-9371-F77D9573FDCA@att.net> <465262.62301.qm@web83806.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <5B83AB0615BB4313BE0EE251826944E2@BOBSNEWPC> Andy, What you're referring to are his original CVJs that did have some fit problems with the TA hub hole. He pulled those off of the market about a year ago and re-engineered them with new components that fit perfectly. In fact, if you have the Nissan differential conversion, you no longer need the axle adapters with the new CVJs. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _____ From: Andrew Packard [mailto:apackard68 at att.net] Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 12:53 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Richard Good hubs Bob: I understood his CVJ's to require some enlarging of the hole in the trailing arm. After reading your website, I'm going to go with the CVJ's. Thanks for documenting all that work! Andy _____ From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: Andrew Packard ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 5:07:49 AM Subject: RE: [6pack] Richard Good hubs Andy, There's a few guys in the 6-Pack Forum that have either his upgraded hubs or his new CVJs that use that hub. I've got his CVJs and the installation was a perfect fit. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/CVJ.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Packard Sent: Friday, April 24, 2009 2:14 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Richard Good hubs Anyone out there having good experience with Richard Good's rear hubs? I was thinking of upgrading to the hub unit only that then attaches to the stock splined insert via the u-joint. Andy CD6746L 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6parts at charter.net Fri Apr 24 23:07:30 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Al Salvatore) Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 01:07:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems References: Message-ID: <0F86628CA31A4D5B8F6D2DA9CC08EC38@Alan> Finally found the clutch problem. Or my friend Mike found the problem. A year ago when I swaped motor and transmission, I put a new clutch , throw out bearing and sleeve. Since then, I had problems with the clutch engaging near the floor and problems shifting. Turns out the new throwout bearing sleeve was at least a 1/2 inch too short. I didn't compare it to the old one when I installed it; just the put new throw out bearing on the new sleeve. I don't know what its for, but its definately not for a TR6. Needless to say I'am not a happy camper. See picture of the one just taken out compared to an original on right. [IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/bearingsleeve.jpg[/IMG] Al Salvatore From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat Apr 25 05:37:06 2009 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 04:37:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] hi Message-ID: <601192.10984.qm@web30406.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone on this list live in rockland co From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Apr 25 06:31:51 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Sat, 25 Apr 2009 12:31:51 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems In-Reply-To: <0F86628CA31A4D5B8F6D2DA9CC08EC38@Alan> References: <0F86628CA31A4D5B8F6D2DA9CC08EC38@Alan> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF5B2DAE0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> That would do it Al. At least you found a rational explanation http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/bearingsleeve.jpg Clickable link to Al's image. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Al Salvatore Sent: Saturday, April 25, 2009 1:08 AM To: Sally or Dick Taylor; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] tr6 clutch problems Finally found the clutch problem. Or my friend Mike found the problem. A year ago when I swaped motor and transmission, I put a new clutch , throw out bearing and sleeve. Since then, I had problems with the clutch engaging near the floor and problems shifting. Turns out the new throwout bearing sleeve was at least a 1/2 inch too short. I didn't compare it to the old one when I installed it; just the put new throw out bearing on the new sleeve. I don't know what its for, but its definately not for a TR6. Needless to say I'am not a happy camper. See picture of the one just taken out compared to an original on right. [IMG]http://i246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/bearingsleeve.jpg[/IMG] Al Salvatore From bobfabie at gmail.com Mon Apr 27 19:04:50 2009 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 21:04:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation Message-ID: Hello List: These facts I know to be true: Visually and according to the gauge, there was just under 1/4 tank of gas in the tank. The filter is not clogged. The gas tank was rebuilt two years ago and it is not believed to be clogged. Recently, my engine began sputtering and surging as if running out of gas, then sputtering and finally dying. I pulled to the side of the road for a a couple of minutes. I noticed the fuel filter was empty. When I levered the primer on the fuel pump, it didn't feel as if there was any suction and no gas was making it to the filter. After a few minutes, gas appeared in the filter and the car started and ran for a while before again sputtering to a halt. Believing that it might be a venting problem, I flipped open the gas tank cap and thereafter, noticed fuel filling in the filter. The car drove normally for a few miles and then sputtered again. I topped off the gas tank and then drove 40 miles without another sputter. There is a vent hose that runs from the top of the gas tank (on a '75) through a canister/seperator and then to the engine compartment and into the carbon canister. Running low pressure air into the canister revealed no restrictions. Trying to run air from the carbon canister side of the vent line back to the gas tank met with restriction. Questions: Does the canister/separator at the gas tank only vent in one direction, i.e., toward the carbon canister in the front? If so, that would explain why there was resistance to the air pressure I was blowing from the carbon canister. If the canister/separator is not a one way vent, then it appears to be clogged. This part is NLA, but does anyone know of a similar replacement? Any other ideas? Many thanks, Bob Fabie '75 TR6 From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Apr 27 19:14:43 2009 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Mon, 27 Apr 2009 18:14:43 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20090427211443.334Y9.1665142.root@mp18> I had a similar problem a few years ago. Car ran just like that. Problem was a valve in the fuel pump came loose. Worth a look. Al www.triumphowners.com/625 ---- robert fabie wrote: > Hello List: > These facts I know to be true: Visually and according to the gauge, there > was just under 1/4 tank of gas in the tank. The filter is not clogged. The > gas tank was rebuilt two years ago and it is not believed to be clogged. > > Recently, my engine began sputtering and surging as if running out of gas, > then sputtering and finally dying. I pulled to the side of the road for a a > couple of minutes. I noticed the fuel filter was empty. When I levered the > primer on the fuel pump, it didn't feel as if there was any suction and no > gas was making it to the filter. After a few minutes, gas appeared in the > filter and the car started and ran for a while before again sputtering to a > halt. Believing that it might be a venting problem, I flipped open the gas > tank cap and thereafter, noticed fuel filling in the filter. The car drove > normally for a few miles and then sputtered again. I topped off the gas tank > and then drove 40 miles without another sputter. > > There is a vent hose that runs from the top of the gas tank (on a '75) > through a canister/seperator and then to the engine compartment and into the > carbon canister. Running low pressure air into the canister revealed no > restrictions. Trying to run air from the carbon canister side of the vent > line back to the gas tank met with restriction. > > Questions: > Does the canister/separator at the gas tank only vent in one direction, > i.e., toward the carbon canister in the front? If so, that would explain why > there was resistance to the air pressure I was blowing from the carbon > canister. If the canister/separator is not a one way vent, then it appears > to be clogged. This part is NLA, but does anyone know of a similar > replacement? Any other ideas? > > Many thanks, > Bob Fabie > '75 TR6 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 28 08:09:58 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 07:09:58 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575EFF0B88@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Bob: Since running with the cap open still resulted in a sputtering motor, I think the restriction in the vent line is a red herring. Instead, two possibilities come to mind - vapor lock, or a fuel pump on the way out. Anyway, both relate to the fuel delivery side of the equation, not the vent line. I don't know if the vent line is one way or not, but I recommend you set aside that one for later. Consider rebuilding your fuel pump and making sure that your fuel line is properly routed and not touching any source of heat in the engine compartment. Also, you should insure the fuel line from the tank is free from restrictions. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert fabie Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 6:05 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation Hello List: These facts I know to be true: Visually and according to the gauge, there was just under 1/4 tank of gas in the tank. The filter is not clogged. The gas tank was rebuilt two years ago and it is not believed to be clogged. Recently, my engine began sputtering and surging as if running out of gas, then sputtering and finally dying. I pulled to the side of the road for a a couple of minutes. I noticed the fuel filter was empty. When I levered the primer on the fuel pump, it didn't feel as if there was any suction and no gas was making it to the filter. After a few minutes, gas appeared in the filter and the car started and ran for a while before again sputtering to a halt. Believing that it might be a venting problem, I flipped open the gas tank cap and thereafter, noticed fuel filling in the filter. The car drove normally for a few miles and then sputtered again. I topped off the gas tank and then drove 40 miles without another sputter. Many thanks, Bob Fabie '75 TR6 _______________________________________________ From jimmble at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 28 08:17:40 2009 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 10:17:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575EFF0B88@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575EFF0B88@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> Message-ID: <49F71004.2090509@roadrunner.com> Bob, I had a similar issue that was caused by a clogged charcoal cannister. Jim Franks Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Bob: > > Since running with the cap open still resulted in a sputtering motor, I think > the restriction in the vent line is a red herring. > Instead, two possibilities come to mind - vapor lock, or a fuel pump on the > way out. Anyway, both relate to the fuel delivery side of the equation, not > the vent line. I don't know if the vent line is one way or not, but I > recommend you set aside that one for later. Consider rebuilding your fuel pump > and making sure that your fuel line is properly routed and not touching any > source of heat in the engine compartment. Also, you should insure the fuel > line from the tank is free from restrictions. > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of robert fabie > Sent: Monday, April 27, 2009 6:05 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation > > Hello List: > These facts I know to be true: Visually and according to the gauge, there > was just under 1/4 tank of gas in the tank. The filter is not clogged. The > gas tank was rebuilt two years ago and it is not believed to be clogged. > > Recently, my engine began sputtering and surging as if running out of gas, > then sputtering and finally dying. I pulled to the side of the road for a a > couple of minutes. I noticed the fuel filter was empty. When I levered the > primer on the fuel pump, it didn't feel as if there was any suction and no > gas was making it to the filter. After a few minutes, gas appeared in the > filter and the car started and ran for a while before again sputtering to a > halt. Believing that it might be a venting problem, I flipped open the gas > tank cap and thereafter, noticed fuel filling in the filter. The car drove > normally for a few miles and then sputtered again. I topped off the gas tank > and then drove 40 miles without another sputter. > > > > Many thanks, > Bob Fabie > '75 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com From DLylis at aol.com Tue Apr 28 09:33:58 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 11:33:58 EDT Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation Message-ID: Bob, You reference rebuilding your fuel tank. Is it possible that the inside of the the tank was recoated in this process? IIWY I would put the car on stands and disconnect the fule filter and point the fuel line into a large gas can and drain the tank. You obviously want to do this on somewhat less than a full tank. You can then disconnect the fuel line from the bottom of the tank simply by removing the right rear wheel. I would put a clean pan under the tank and pour some gas into the tank and see what runs out. You can also tie a small flashlight to a string and look in the tank to see what is in there. Being overly cautious I would leave the tank open to the air for a day or so to dissipate fumes. A flashlight should pose no threat but just to be extra careful and not end up on the Darwin Awards. I offer this from experience as a gob of coating can find its way to the outlet and starve for fuel and then move away and then find its way back. Adding gas and stirring things up will move it away from the outlet. Just my two Euros worth. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621499x1201450105/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Apr ilExcScore428NO62) From tlamkin at emory.edu Tue Apr 28 10:00:28 2009 From: tlamkin at emory.edu (Lamkin, Todd) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 12:00:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Car for Sale on Ebay - Atlanta GA Message-ID: My 1971 CC64522L has just gone up on Ebay. The listing ID is 320365532387. Please help me find a good home for her. I am selling for financial reasons only and will miss her dearly. Im about 40 minutes from Road Atlanta if any Mitty-goers want to take a side trip. Thanks, -- Todd Lamkin ________________________________ This e-mail message (including any attachments) is for the sole use of the intended recipient(s) and may contain confidential and privileged information. If the reader of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or copying of this message (including any attachments) is strictly prohibited. If you have received this message in error, please contact the sender by reply e-mail message and destroy all copies of the original message (including attachments). From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 28 10:08:15 2009 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 09:08:15 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279575EFF0C45@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com> David: No risk of a TR6 owner ending up in the Darwin awards. In an evolutionary sense, we are hopelessly stuck in the past, refusing to evolve by virtue of driving old cars. Kinda like sharks - we stopped evolving a long time ago. We think side draft carburetors are the neatest thing since the Cambrian era, and nothing can improve on them. Ahem. At least, that is the way it seems =;-) Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 8:34 AM To: bobfabie at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation Bob, Being overly cautious I would leave the tank open to the air for a day or so to dissipate fumes. A flashlight should pose no threat but just to be extra careful and not end up on the Darwin Awards. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Tue Apr 28 11:52:11 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 10:52:11 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171088@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> When laying down new carpet, what are the best methods for locating the seat mounting holes? It pains me to cut brand new wool carpet, and would pain me even more to end up with swiss cheese. Mike From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Apr 28 12:05:00 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:05:00 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171088@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171088@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF62F9531@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Put the carpet in place, ie where you plan to install it etc and then stick a bradawl or similar thin pointed tool up through the seat mounting captive nuts under the floor. You may have to press/weight the carpet from the top to pierce it. Then stick some masking tape onto the carpet. If you pierce the masking tape with the point of the awl it will mark the center of the hole. I usually just cut a small X at that location, it only has to accommodate a 1/4 inch bolt. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 1:52 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation When laying down new carpet, what are the best methods for locating the seat mounting holes? It pains me to cut brand new wool carpet, and would pain me even more to end up with swiss cheese. Mike 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From apackard68 at att.net Tue Apr 28 12:09:11 2009 From: apackard68 at att.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 11:09:11 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171088@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171088@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <841954.17624.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I put blue masking tape on the back of the carpet in the approximate location of the holes. Then, with the capet in position, use a straight pick up from underneath the car through the mounting holes and through the carpet. The tape allows you to see where the pick hits much more easily. I then took gasket-maker hole punch to make a nice round appropriately-sized hole from the back side of the carpet. Holding the carpet up in front of a bright light will help you keep track of where your holes have been made. Hope this helps. Andy CD6746L ________________________________ From: "Corbitt, Michael" To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:52:11 AM Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation When laying down new carpet, what are the best methods for locating the seat mounting holes? It pains me to cut brand new wool carpet, and would pain me even more to end up with swiss cheese. Mike _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as apackard68 at att.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Apr 28 12:14:03 2009 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:14:03 GMT Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation Message-ID: Mike--- One way to avoid unnecessary holes would be to screw some transfer punches into the captive nuts used to hold the seat rails in place. These punches can be made by grinding bolts of the appropriate thread to a sharp point. Lay the carpet in the right place, and strike with a soft hammer or something where the punch points are. Remove the carpet and further open the holes to the bolt size with a hole puncher. (Cheap hole punch sets available from Harbor Freight). Dick -----Original Message----- From: Corbitt, Michael Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 10:52 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation When laying down new carpet, what are the best methods for locating the seat mounting holes? It pains me to cut brand new wool carpet, and would pain me even more to end up with swiss cheese. Mike 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From DLylis at aol.com Tue Apr 28 12:13:48 2009 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 14:13:48 EDT Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation Message-ID: The comment you have received will help you locate the holes. To make a really neat job, go to HF and buy a set of gasket punches (pretty cheap) and with a 2X4 block and a hammer you can make nice round holes without slits. BTW the punches will come in handy later with gasket material! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************An Excellent Credit Score is 750. See Yours in Just 2 Easy Steps! (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100126575x1221621499x1201450105/aol?redir=http://www.freecreditreport.com/pm/default.aspx?sc=668072&hmpgID=62&bcd=Apr ilExcScore428NO62) From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com Tue Apr 28 12:23:08 2009 From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 11:23:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Installing rubber window seal, etc. Message-ID: <15744.36134.qm@web110415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Folks, I seem to recall that there's a special tool for either the removal/replacement of the rubber window seal...or is it for the interior door panel clips? Also, while I'm fooling w/ my door panel (which needs some stitching in the pocket) and replacing my rubber window seals...I'm thinking about doing the retrofit for the glass sleeves. Someone on the list had a slick method, using lengths of Velcro tape... Any info would be appreciated. Regards, Pete Mallard Green '75 Denver, CO From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Apr 28 12:55:52 2009 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:55:52 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Installing rubber window seal, etc. In-Reply-To: <15744.36134.qm@web110415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <15744.36134.qm@web110415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Someone showed me how to make the little tool for the replacement of the inner and outer side window seals. You take a length of steel strapping from a rack of bricks, needing maybe 1 foot or two. You make a sharp 180 degree bend about a half inch from an end, making a cradle for the new clip to rest in. Bend the rest of the length of the strap so you can hold on to it while you pull up on the clip which has been lowered into position with the 'tool'. Others may have a better method, but this worked for me. Sloane :) 69-Six > > Folks, > > I seem to recall that there's a special tool for either the > removal/replacement of the rubber window seal...or is it for the interior door > panel clips? > _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor age2_042009 From sakirsis at consolidated.net Tue Apr 28 13:13:40 2009 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 14:13:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] window scrapper tool Message-ID: Quite a while ago someone on the list suggested the cover strips on the back of the tower on a table computer work well. I tried it and and it worked. just fold as you would the brick straps. Steve Kirsis, '70 and '75 6's. From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Tue Apr 28 13:57:47 2009 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 12:57:47 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Carpet Installation In-Reply-To: <841954.17624.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A4715300522202171088@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> <841954.17624.qm@web83811.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A471530052220217108E@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Thanks everyone for the wealth of replies on this. I have many options to think about. Mike From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 28 14:36:44 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 16:36:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Installing rubber window seal, etc. In-Reply-To: <15744.36134.qm@web110415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> References: <15744.36134.qm@web110415.mail.gq1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Pete, You might want to drop in on The 6-Pack Forum (http://tinyurl.com/chvl55) as the window seal is currently being discussed. As for the Velcro trick, you may have seen it on my site http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete Kronberg Sent: Tuesday, April 28, 2009 2:23 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Installing rubber window seal, etc. Folks, I seem to recall that there's a special tool for either the removal/replacement of the rubber window seal...or is it for the interior door panel clips? Also, while I'm fooling w/ my door panel (which needs some stitching in the pocket) and replacing my rubber window seals...I'm thinking about doing the retrofit for the glass sleeves. Someone on the list had a slick method, using lengths of Velcro tape... Any info would be appreciated. Regards, Pete Mallard Green '75 Denver, CO 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From trsix74 at comcast.net Tue Apr 28 16:22:59 2009 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Tue, 28 Apr 2009 18:22:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Venting Problem Causes Fuel Starvation In-Reply-To: <20090427211443.334Y9.1665142.root@mp18> References: <20090427211443.334Y9.1665142.root@mp18> Message-ID: I had a similar problem a few years ago. Car ran just like that. Problem was a valve in the fuel pump came loose. Worth a look. Al www.triumphowners.com/625 Same here on my TR3 two weeks ago. Pushed the check valve in with a ratchet head and a tap hammer and fixed it. From r_rochlin at hotmail.com Wed Apr 29 05:49:40 2009 From: r_rochlin at hotmail.com (Bob Rochlin) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 11:49:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Master Cylinder help part II Message-ID: I have just replace the master cylinder for the failed one I discussed last week. After I bled the brakes I noticed that the dash brake waring light was not on as usual after a brake bleed. Could it have been a miracle and the circuits were balanced...not. It seems that at some point the connection between and the switch the wiring harness has become corroded enough to cause the warning light not to go on. When I cleaned the connector the light worked as usual. I now am guessing that what happened was that the one of the brake circuits failed, the light didn't work and when the second circuit failed I was left with no brakes. What is startling to me is that the brakes felt absolutely fine, solid pedal, good braking...until the they failed. I can't emphasize much how important it is to check that PDWA operation. If the brakes had failed me in an unfortunate moment I could have killed some poor pedestrian or done way more damage to me, my passenger, or the car than I did. Bob Rochlin '72 TR6 _________________________________________________________________ Rediscover Hotmail.: Get e-mail storage that grows with you. http://windowslive.com/RediscoverHotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_HM_Rediscover_Stor age2_042009 From jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 29 14:01:04 2009 From: jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com (James McArthur) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 13:01:04 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets Message-ID: <978354.6080.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Good day to all! This will be my first post to this list; I had subscribed a few years back, but one thing leads to another......Any way, I need some opinions and/or answers. I had rebuilt the suspension on my 74 TR6 using nylatron bushes, new springs, etc., hoping to get rid of the excessive camber (did I get that right?). To make a long story short, the "T" shirt area looks like it could use some help, but I don't know if it is immediate in nature. My question is this: while perusing the catalog from Rimmer, I noticed that they state that differnt combinations of brackets (one notch, two notch, three notch) were used with differnet comission numbers. Now I am wondering if the DPO of this vehicle (and I say that with good reason), used whatever brackets he had laying around to re-install the trailing arms; they, or one was out because he boogered the hub mounting studs up for me. So, does anyone know the correct trailing brackets that were installed on the '74 TR6, comission # CF17672U? I wopuld appreciate all comments, thougghts, suggestions. Thanks in advance! Jim McArthur/ York, Pa. 1974 TR6 CF17672U From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Apr 29 14:07:36 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 20:07:36 +0000 Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets In-Reply-To: <978354.6080.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <978354.6080.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF62F9837@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Jim, I think you will find most of what you are looking for in one of the Buckeye tech articles http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm Which states: "The number of notches in the top edges identifies the brackets and is marked on each bracket in the photo. Up to CC61570 a 1- notch bracket was used on the inside and a 2-notch bracket on the outside. Beginning with CC61571 a 3-notch bracket was used on the inside and a 1-notch bracket on the outside." Or just get the Goodparts adjustables... Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James McArthur Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 4:01 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets Good day to all! This will be my first post to this list; I had subscribed a few years back, but one thing leads to another......Any way, I need some opinions and/or answers. I had rebuilt the suspension on my 74 TR6 using nylatron bushes, new springs, etc., hoping to get rid of the excessive camber (did I get that right?). To make a long story short, the "T" shirt area looks like it could use some help, but I don't know if it is immediate in nature. My question is this: while perusing the catalog from Rimmer, I noticed that they state that differnt combinations of brackets (one notch, two notch, three notch) were used with differnet comission numbers. Now I am wondering if the DPO of this vehicle (and I say that with good reason), used whatever brackets he had laying around to re-install the trailing arms; they, or one was out because he boogered the hub mounting studs up for me. So, does anyone know the correct trailing brackets that were installed on the '74 TR6, comission # CF17672U? I wopuld appreciate all comments, thougghts, suggestions. Thanks in advance! Jim McArthur/ York, Pa. 1974 TR6 CF17672U From trglory at verizon.net Wed Apr 29 14:32:11 2009 From: trglory at verizon.net (Joe Laurito) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 16:32:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets In-Reply-To: <978354.6080.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <2730D6D5DBAB4EB39D56980296D0F953@newbox> Jim; If you aren't sure of what you have, I would suggest that you buy the Goodparts adjustable brackets. With these installed, take the car to an alignment shop and have them do a rear wheel alignment. The job can now be done much easier and the results will be better because the mechanic does not have to settle for an approximate fit. Richard Good has been in the business of making quality TR6 upgrades for many years and is "right up the road" in Reading PA. Go to www.goodparts.com Joe Laurito Harrisburg PA -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James McArthur Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 4:01 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets Good day to all! This will be my first post to this list; I had subscribed a few years back, but one thing leads to another......Any way, I need some opinions and/or answers. I had rebuilt the suspension on my 74 TR6 using nylatron bushes, new springs, etc., hoping to get rid of the excessive camber (did I get that right?). To make a long story short, the "T" shirt area looks like it could use some help, but I don't know if it is immediate in nature. My question is this: while perusing the catalog from Rimmer, I noticed that they state that differnt combinations of brackets (one notch, two notch, three notch) were used with differnet comission numbers. Now I am wondering if the DPO of this vehicle (and I say that with good reason), used whatever brackets he had laying around to re-install the trailing arms; they, or one was out because he boogered the hub mounting studs up for me. So, does anyone know the correct trailing brackets that were installed on the '74 TR6, comission # CF17672U? I wopuld appreciate all comments, thougghts, suggestions. Thanks in advance! Jim McArthur/ York, Pa. 1974 TR6 CF17672U [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.8/2086 - Release Date: 04/29/09 06:37:00 From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Wed Apr 29 15:32:01 2009 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 14:32:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets In-Reply-To: <2730D6D5DBAB4EB39D56980296D0F953@newbox> References: <2730D6D5DBAB4EB39D56980296D0F953@newbox> Message-ID: <944937.13237.qm@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Jim Joe is correct on this point that using the Good part bracket makes life a lot easier. To answer your question since your build # is a few hundred from mine, my car original had 3 notches on the outside and one notch on the inside. If I remember correctly the 3 were up and the 1 was down. Dale ________________________________ From: Joe Laurito To: James McArthur ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 4:32:11 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] trailing arm brackets Jim; If you aren't sure of what you have, I would suggest that you buy the Goodparts adjustable brackets. With these installed, take the car to an alignment shop and have them do a rear wheel alignment. The job can now be done much easier and the results will be better because the mechanic does not have to settle for an approximate fit. Richard Good has been in the business of making quality TR6 upgrades for many years and is "right up the road" in Reading PA. Go to www.goodparts.com Joe Laurito Harrisburg PA -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James McArthur Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 4:01 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets Good day to all! This will be my first post to this list; I had subscribed a few years back, but one thing leads to another......Any way, I need some opinions and/or answers. I had rebuilt the suspension on my 74 TR6 using nylatron bushes, new springs, etc., hoping to get rid of the excessive camber (did I get that right?). To make a long story short, the "T" shirt area looks like it could use some help, but I don't know if it is immediate in nature. My question is this: while perusing the catalog from Rimmer, I noticed that they state that differnt combinations of brackets (one notch, two notch, three notch) were used with differnet comission numbers. Now I am wondering if the DPO of this vehicle (and I say that with good reason), used whatever brackets he had laying around to re-install the trailing arms; they, or one was out because he boogered the hub mounting studs up for me. So, does anyone know the correct trailing brackets that were installed on the '74 TR6, comission # CF17672U? I wopuld appreciate all comments, thougghts, suggestions. Thanks in advance! Jim McArthur/ York, Pa. 1974 TR6 CF17672U [demime found a multipart/alternative section which it tried to parse but could not find any section which it could render. Please send plain text.] No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com Version: 8.5.287 / Virus Database: 270.12.8/2086 - Release Date: 04/29/09 06:37:00 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Apr 29 15:50:17 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 17:50:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets In-Reply-To: <978354.6080.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <978354.6080.qm@web46016.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <12E71D8181334763977A76BDADF95069@BOBSNEWPC> I did the Goodpart's adjustable TA Brackets (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmKit.htm) last year and they make chamber adjustment simple. You still need to keep track of how many shims are behind each of your existing brackets as you'll re-use them with the adjustable brackets in the same configuration. The shims determine your alignment while the brackets do your chamber. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James McArthur Sent: Wednesday, April 29, 2009 4:01 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] trailing arm brackets Good day to all! This will be my first post to this list; I had subscribed a few years back, but one thing leads to another......Any way, I need some opinions and/or answers. I had rebuilt the suspension on my 74 TR6 using nylatron bushes, new springs, etc., hoping to get rid of the excessive camber (did I get that right?). To make a long story short, the "T" shirt area looks like it could use some help, but I don't know if it is immediate in nature. My question is this: while perusing the catalog from Rimmer, I noticed that they state that differnt combinations of brackets (one notch, two notch, three notch) were used with differnet comission numbers. Now I am wondering if the DPO of this vehicle (and I say that with good reason), used whatever brackets he had laying around to re-install the trailing arms; they, or one was out because he boogered the hub mounting studs up for me. So, does anyone know the correct trailing brackets that were installed on the '74 TR6, comission # CF17672U? I wopuld appreciate all comments, thougghts, suggestions. Thanks in advance! Jim McArthur/ York, Pa. 1974 TR6 CF17672U 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 29 18:10:40 2009 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 29 Apr 2009 19:10:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] south central regionals Message-ID: <005201c9c928$643353d0$0d15a8c0@ranteer.local> just a few pics. sorry i didn't take more. this was the breakfast run. http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN3738.JPG http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN3739.JPG http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/DSCN3742.JPG From jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 30 13:58:44 2009 From: jrmcarthur55 at yahoo.com (James McArthur) Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 12:58:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] trailing arms Message-ID: <527225.31871.qm@web46009.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi Listers......Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my inquiry! NOW, I have a good reason to bring the sleeping TR6 out of the rear garage into the front garage where I have some room! I will investigate which brackets are under the car and their orientation to see where I stand. I took a quick look at the adjustable brackets on the Good Parts website and they seem like a bargain at $130. After I have a good look at the rear suspension again, I think I may invest in a set. Are these a pretty straight forward install; other than the alignment? Thanks again to all! Best Regards...........Jim McArthur From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Apr 30 14:51:32 2009 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 16:51:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] trailing arms In-Reply-To: <527225.31871.qm@web46009.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <527225.31871.qm@web46009.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <49CD5D3821544276AD48A59F7937E54F@BOBSNEWPC> It's as straight forward an installation as anything is on a TR6! Because of the number of shim I had on the car I had to get a couple of longer bolts for going through the frame. One guy I know had a problem with the pivot bolt clearance with the frame and had to use a shorter bolt. Some guys have had to play around with the spacers used with the bushings. For a 30+ year old car, nothing too surprising. Just make sure you note the number of shims behind each of your existing brackets and re-use them in the same arrangement on the new brackets...... Assuming your car was in alignment to begin with. Lots of pictures on the Goodparts TA install here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James McArthur Sent: Thursday, April 30, 2009 3:59 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] trailing arms Hi Listers......Many thanks to all who took the time to respond to my inquiry! NOW, I have a good reason to bring the sleeping TR6 out of the rear garage into the front garage where I have some room! I will investigate which brackets are under the car and their orientation to see where I stand. I took a quick look at the adjustable brackets on the Good Parts website and they seem like a bargain at $130. After I have a good look at the rear suspension again, I think I may invest in a set. Are these a pretty straight forward install; other than the alignment? Thanks again to all! Best Regards...........Jim McArthur 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Apr 30 14:53:53 2009 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan (HP IT)) Date: Thu, 30 Apr 2009 20:53:53 +0000 Subject: [6pack] trailing arms In-Reply-To: <527225.31871.qm@web46009.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <527225.31871.qm@web46009.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72AAF62F9B38@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Jim, below is a set of suggestions that I have shared with the list before. Fitting is otherwise straightforward but I would suggest you use Richards Nylatron bushes also as they come with shims so you can really get things solid with no lateral movement. The only criticism I have heard is that some people don't trust the pivot bolt to hold the adjustment under extreme load like hitting a pothole. The way these things get clamped up I find that unlikely and I have never heard of a case where the pivot bolt has allowed the adjuster to move on its own accord. Stan I have a few bits of advice to offer anyone considering these brackets. 1. When you get them, play with them for bit. Make sure you understand what the full range of travel is for the adjusters especially in relation to the lower "ear" that the adjuster bolt goes through since that will be the one you will be closest to on the inner bracket. You wont have to worry about this on the outer bracket since that is going to be more mid point in the range anyway for most of us. 2. In his instructions, Richard talks about the stress on the TA due to the spring and the need to lever the TA into the correct position as you rotate the adjuster bolt. Take this advice seriously. Don't try and move the TA just by brute force and the adjuster bolt because the bracket will bend and the adjuster bolt will bend and it may shear. I did all of the above. If the adjuster bolt is not moving freely there is something wrong and even mildly leaning on a socket wrench is going damage something. 3. Set the inner and outer brackets close to the end state position before you install them so you can avoid massive movements of the TA. Richard suggested having the inners all the way at the bottom and the outers 1/16th above center and I found this gave me the correct ride height and was close to the correct camber. These are great brackets and Richard has been very helpful despite my ineptitude and I offer this advice only with the goal of helping others to make the best of their installation and not to discourage people from using these brackets.