From trmarty at hotmail.com  Mon Sep  1 07:20:18 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 09:20:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <0198BD70-5DF0-489B-9CD9-76BDC6AB7172@mac.com>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl> 
	<0198BD70-5DF0-489B-9CD9-76BDC6AB7172@mac.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W30B71402C650CB8CA2FFD7BA5C0@phx.gbl>

If everything falls in place this week we will be arriving in Evelyn's car she
has wanted for years, a green TR8. Hoping to finalize the purchase this week.
Then we will have one of each Triumph (4 cyl, 6 cyl, 8 cyl).

Marty
Green TR8 with Ohio plates TBD.

_________________________________________________________________
Be the filmmaker you always wanted to belearn how to burn a DVD with
Windows..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/108588797/direct/01/

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Sep  1 13:00:33 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 13:00:33 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] THE GLEN-CONCOURSE EVENT - links
In-Reply-To: <c3f.3052334a.35ed4f13@aol.com>
References: <c3f.3052334a.35ed4f13@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48BC3BD1.4050006@tscusa.org>

Hi Larry,

It is supposed to be Friday at Watkins Glen State Park.  Judging starts 
at 10 am.

Have a look for full festival description and schedule information at
http://www.grandprixrestival.com

or http://www.grandprixfestival.com/schedule.html

Race Track  schedule of events are located on http://svra.com in the 
Vintage Race Section or
also here
*http://tinyurl.com/5sez3q*

L1J1S at aol.com wrote:
> Hello, does anyone know which day the concourse event is going to be  held?  
> larry schwartz 
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From glccrc at ptd.net  Mon Sep  1 15:44:47 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 17:44:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W30B71402C650CB8CA2FFD7BA5C0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <12203054707827676@pm11.mailnet.ptd.net>

Since we're down to the wire and the TR6 just got painted on Friday, it may
be sporting a new bright blue exterior with classic dynamat interior. 

Right now interior is old BRG and black paint and a ratty drivers seat- and
one door opener.

Hopefully some new tan carpet and new-to-us miata seats in tan. 
Door panels? Ah, highly overrated. Who needs em?

In some fashion, most of my 70 6 will be there, arriving Th eve and touring.
Staying with Porsche neighbors at Staybridge Suites in Corning

George Church
Central PA

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty
sukey
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 9:20 AM
To: 6 Digest; Triumph List
Subject: [6pack] Glen head count

If everything falls in place this week we will be arriving in Evelyn's car
she
has wanted for years, a green TR8. Hoping to finalize the purchase this
week.
Then we will have one of each Triumph (4 cyl, 6 cyl, 8 cyl).

Marty
Green TR8 with Ohio plates TBD.

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon Sep  1 17:55:49 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 19:55:49 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Glen head count
Message-ID: <c54.33361349.35eddb05@cs.com>

Come as your are....!

It's about Triumphs!   </HTML>

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Sep  1 18:30:38 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 20:30:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] I Give Up (Subject A Type Over  Drive) UPDATE
In-Reply-To: <c54.331e8025.35eccf86@aol.com>
References: <c54.331e8025.35eccf86@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301c90c93$204d4330$6601a8c0@Robert>

First of all, thanks to all of you who responded with information at various
sites, pdf.files, manuals and your own experiences.

WE HAVE SUCCESS!!!! Yes after 9 hours of fun garage time, I finally have it
where it runs and switches in and out of overdrive.

The oil pressure was fine, the relief valve was fine, the relay was fine. 

After finding the right spot for the operating valve to be set, ( a little
further than the 3/16th hole, I worked on the solenoid side and found some
issues. 

1) The plunger was too long, so the lever would not travel very far or far
enough.
2) The solenoid lever was binding ever so slightly on the upper red bolt
head and it would not work the plunger smoothly.
3) The new solenoid it self was iffy.

Action taken

I ground off the plunger down 1/16 inch. I lapped the plunger.

I reshaped the solenoid lever so the plunger moved more freely.

I rebuilt the new solenoid with some of the parts from the old original. The
original was made in England and the new one was made in China. I used the
original plunger, (heavier that the Chinese one) and reused the original
internal plastic cap. The Chinese one was held together with machine screws
that did not fit (too small) and the inside of the plastic cap where the
insulator walls are, was way to tight for the two brass point plates to
activate properly. Thus causing sporadic results.

Once I sorted all that out and reassembled the transmission tunnel, cover
pads and carpet, along with re installing the carpets, seats and checked to
make sure it all still worked. Then I checked that I could reverse, because
it mentioned in one of the articles or manuals that this could be disastrous
if it stayed in OD and I tried to back up. All is well.

I am super tired and overjoyed, that I finally have a working OD.

Thanks everyone again. Go 6pack autox team!!!!

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Mon Sep  1 18:29:51 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 20:29:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] I Give Up (Subject A Type Over  Drive) UPDATE
In-Reply-To: <000301c90c93$204d4330$6601a8c0@Robert>
References: <c54.331e8025.35eccf86@aol.com>
	<000301c90c93$204d4330$6601a8c0@Robert>
Message-ID: <48BC88FF.4050704@roadrunner.com>

Congrats on the workaround!
What a shame we have such a hard time getting good parts. It's the same 
for most all makes...

Jim Franks

Robert Liam Gannon wrote:

WE HAVE SUCCESS!!!! Yes after 9 hours of fun garage time, I finally have it
where it runs and switches in and out of overdrive.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep  1 19:03:10 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 21:03:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires
Message-ID: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc>

I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now
offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in the
local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using nitrogen. I
wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by the end of the
installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, use nitrogen and
notice a difference. I know that racers use it to maintain a constant air
pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it?

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep  1 19:14:56 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 01:14:56 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires
In-Reply-To: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7D49A58@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Nothing new to add to this but it was an opportunity to revive a memorable
message from the good Dr McNelis on this topic last year:

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf
Of Kevin McNelis
Sent: Wednesday, July 25, 2007 9:23 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Re: Nitrogen

Hey, I am here to attest!  I have been running all my tires on 78%
nitrogen for YEARS, and I LOVE IT!  It is easy to obtain, cheap, and it
works!

I have heard of using 100% nitrogen, but that is too expensive for my
tastes.  I find that a mix of about 78% nitrogen plus a smattering of
miscellaneous other gasses works just fine for me.


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 9:03 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack List'
Subject: [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires

I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now
offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in the
local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using nitrogen. I
wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by the end of the
installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, use nitrogen and
notice a difference. I know that racers use it to maintain a constant air
pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it?

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From jmitch at snet.net  Mon Sep  1 19:47:06 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 01 Sep 2008 21:47:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires
In-Reply-To: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <48BC9B1A.9020605@snet.net>

Hmmm, I wonder if they take off for nitrogen at concourse events?  John

Bob Danielson wrote:
> I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now
> offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in the
> local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using nitrogen. I
> wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by the end of the
> installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, use nitrogen and
> notice a difference. I know that racers use it to maintain a constant air
> pressure regardless of heat but how about for everyday use? Is it worth it?
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net

From pbeckman at ameritech.net  Mon Sep  1 20:19:10 2008
From: pbeckman at ameritech.net (Phil Beckman)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 21:19:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] successful roadtrip
Message-ID: <946E3FF789684C2FB50D588DD78965B7@office.CM.NET>

Well, the TR6 ran like a champ for the 600 mile roundtrip down to southwest
Indiana and back this weekend.

The only notable occurrence was the #6 plug wire somehow popped off the
distributor on the trip down.  Not sure when it happened but I noticed it when
checking the oil on Friday after the drive down there.  Strangely enough the
car wasn't running bad on the trip down and didn't seem any different after I
reconnected the #6 plug.  I halfway wonder if it got disconnected when I
checked the oil but it seems unlikely that you'd tear off a plug wire on the
back of the engine while checking the oil :)

Got tons of compliments on the car.  One guy even went to far as to stop at
the cabin we were staying in and knock on the door to ask about the car.  One
of the other guys I was down there with drives a white '70 Mustang
Convertible.  Very pretty car.  He was surprised by how many comments I get on
the car because, according to him, nobody ever really asks him about his
Mustang.

The only remaining question I have concerns oil pressure.  I run the engine
with 20W50 oil (which is pretty heavy) and the engine usually maintains about
50PSI at 3000 RPM when warm.  Normally I just tool around town rarely driving
more than 50MPH except for the occasional trip down the highway for 15 or 20
minutes.  However, on the roadtrip, after about an hour of 70MPH highway
driving the oil pressure was down to something closer to 35PSI.  It stayed
there for the entire 4 hour highway drive.  Getting off the highway and
letting the engine return to idle the pressure dropped pretty low (down to
about 10PSI at idle).  Is it normal for the engine to maintain pressure at
those levels when running a long time at a reasonably high RPM?

Phil Beckman
Libertyville, IL
'73 TR6

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep  1 20:36:32 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 1 Sep 2008 22:36:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires
In-Reply-To: <48BC9B1A.9020605@snet.net>
References: <000001c90c97$ad2025d0$210110ac@bobspc> <48BC9B1A.9020605@snet.net>
Message-ID: <002101c90ca4$b885b4f0$210110ac@bobspc>

John..... Check with your wife....she'll know! Are you going to CTR on the
7th? 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: John Mitchell [mailto:jmitch at snet.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 01, 2008 9:47 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack List'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Nitrogen in Tires

Hmmm, I wonder if they take off for nitrogen at concourse events?  John

Bob Danielson wrote:
> I just had my new tires installed on the TR6 and the tire shop is now 
> offering nitrogen as an "air" option. This shop was also featured in 
> the local newspaper with a big article about the benefits of using 
> nitrogen. I wasn't willing to spend the $50 which came down to $25 by 
> the end of the installation but wonder if anyone, other than racers, 
> use nitrogen and notice a difference. I know that racers use it to 
> maintain a constant air pressure regardless of heat but how about for
everyday use? Is it worth it?
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net
>
>   
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.14/1645 - Release Date: 9/1/2008
7:19 AM

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep  2 00:37:58 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 06:37:58 GMT
Subject: [6pack] successful roadtrip
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV112BA8F4BB78131D50FDABF45F0@phx.gbl>

Phil---To satisfy your curiosity about how much #6 (sparkplug wire) contributes to your engine, pull it off and drive the car, if necessary.

On the oil pressure: 35lb. is lower than it should be, even tho you had the engine oil good and warm with the extended highway cruise. It should be over 50psi, with a "tight" engine running closer to 70 lb.of pressure at the 3,000rpm mark.

Sounds like your TR is a looker, tho!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Beckman
Sent: Monday, September 1, 2008 7:19 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] successful roadtrip

Well, the TR6 ran like a champ for the 600 mile roundtrip down to southwest
Indiana and back this weekend.

The only notable occurrence was the #6 plug wire somehow popped off the
distributor on the trip down.  Not sure when it happened but I noticed it when
checking the oil on Friday after the drive down there.  Strangely enough the
car wasn't running bad on the trip down and didn't seem any different after I
reconnected the #6 plug.  I halfway wonder if it got disconnected when I
checked the oil but it seems unlikely that you'd tear off a plug wire on the
back of the engine while checking the oil :)

Got tons of compliments on the car.  One guy even went to far as to stop at
the cabin we were staying in and knock on the door to ask about the car.  One
of the other guys I was down there with drives a white '70 Mustang
Convertible.  Very pretty car.  He was surprised by how many comments I get on
the car because, according to him, nobody ever really asks him about his
Mustang.

The only remaining question I have concerns oil pressure.  I run the engine
with 20W50 oil (which is pretty heavy) and the engine usually maintains about
50PSI at 3000 RPM when warm.  Normally I just tool around town rarely driving
more than 50MPH except for the occasional trip down the highway for 15 or 20
minutes.  However, on the roadtrip, after about an hour of 70MPH highway
driving the oil pressure was down to something closer to 35PSI.  It stayed
there for the entire 4 hour highway drive.  Getting off the highway and
letting the engine return to idle the pressure dropped pretty low (down to
about 10PSI at idle).  Is it normal for the engine to maintain pressure at
those levels when running a long time at a reasonably high RPM?

Phil Beckman
Libertyville, IL
'73 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Tue Sep  2 05:37:52 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 11:37:52 +0000
Subject: [6pack] successful roadtrip
Message-ID: <090220081137.22508.48BD259000026ECE000057EC2200734076CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>

What happens to all that petrol that is not ignited in #6 cylinder? I would venture to say that there is a large amount of gasoline in the oil if you ran for a long time with the plug wire disconnected. I think the term is cylinder wash. Any thoughts?

From pbeckman at ameritech.net  Tue Sep  2 06:28:48 2008
From: pbeckman at ameritech.net (Phil Beckman)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 07:28:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] successful roadtrip
In-Reply-To: <090220081137.22508.48BD259000026ECE000057EC2200734076CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
References: <090220081137.22508.48BD259000026ECE000057EC2200734076CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <A8BEF2C1566D4D7C8248480822D906DA@office.CM.NET>

Hmmm, excellent thought.  Given that I have no clue how long it was
disconnected I might want to change the oil just as a precaution.

>From Dick's response it seems that my engine is a little tired.  About 10
years ago I replaced the bottom end bearings but other than that there's been
virtually nothing done to the engine over the years other than tune-ups.
Probably should start thinking about a rebuild sometime in the not to distant
future.

Phil Beckman
Libertyville, IL
'73 TR6
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: trsix74 at comcast.net
  To: Phil Beckman ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] successful roadtrip


  What happens to all that petrol that is not ignited in #6 cylinder? I would
venture to say that there is a large amount of gasoline in the oil if you ran
for a long time with the plug wire disconnected. I think the term is cylinder
wash. Any thoughts?

From glccrc at ptd.net  Tue Sep  2 06:51:33 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 08:51:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Uncle Jack's Miata Seat Conversion Kit
In-Reply-To: <bc3.2ff89192.35e1b85b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080902125126.00A5418764C@autox.team.net>

One of those first production run seat tracks will be installed in the next
3 days and, God willing, be up at the Glen with my newly recovered Miata
seats for those who want to sample the final product.

George Church
70 TR6 "striking" blue with either new tan or dynamat interior, depending on
how the next 3 days go. Boy, you can't trust a paint chip!

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Saturday, August 23, 2008 3:01 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Uncle Jack's Miata Seat Conversion Kit

Guys,

Uncle Jack did a production run of the subject brackets this summer.  Sadly,

we had his funeral last Thursday.  I encouraged him to do this conversion as

he had done this to his own TR6 and we have the resources to design and
produce.

I wish to help with any further business regarding the brackets.  Some maybe

expecting a shipping of the brackets. Some may want to purchase a set. Some 
have have installation problems and questions and I will want to help
resolve.

I have no financial interest.

I had one email regarding the installation of a kit in a TR4A. There was
some 
interference in the motion of the seat. I need to know if there are any
other 
issues with installation so we can plan to deal with them.

If you are going to be with us at Watkins Glen, we will have some kits
there. 
Ted Liberti, I know is going to pick up a couple of sets.

You will want to join us, as guests, in the Triumph Paddock, in any case. 
(Jack's son Tony will be racing....likely very close to the front) We will
be 
celebrating the Life of Jack Drews.

Regards,

Joe Alexander
Friends of Triumph

   </HTML>
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Sep  2 07:36:20 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 09:36:20 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Uncle Jack's Miata Seat Conversion Kit  at The Glen
Message-ID: <d64.2999509c.35ee9b54@cs.com>

George and all.

Great!!!  We will have the right folks at The Glen to discuss Uncle Jack's 
Stuff. Tony Drews is bronging some seat conversions and some HD Spindles.

Sean Alexander, who does much of our process engineering, (sheet metal) will 
be there.

Remember the Triumph Party in the Classic Motorsports Olde English Pub in the 
Triumph Paddock Saturday night. Sponsored by Classic Motorsports and Moss 
Motors, this is the pace to be.

Joe A

Joe

> One of those first production run seat tracks will be installed in the next
> 3 days and, God willing, be up at the Glen with my newly recovered Miata
> seats for those who want to sample the final product.
> 
> George Church
> 70 TR6 "striking" blue with either new tan or dynamat interior, depending on
> how the next 3 days go. Boy, you can't trust a paint chip!
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> 

   </HTML>

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Sep  2 07:50:04 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 9:50:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
Message-ID: <28981508.181441220363404551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>

I have a new soft top on my Six and, now that it's about a month or 6 weeks "old," I note  that the windows have a cloudy sort of film on them. I haven't 'treated' the windows with anything but did try Windex to clean them -- without success. Has anyone heard of or used an effective product for cleaning convertible top window plastic, removing that cloudy sort of film?

Thanks for any help!

Dave Friedlander
74-Six w/A-Overdrive + TBI

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Tue Sep  2 07:54:07 2008
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 09:54:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
In-Reply-To: <28981508.181441220363404551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02
  >
References: <28981508.181441220363404551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20080902095028.04527358@216.7.163.243>

Hi, Dave,

I use Novus 2 plastic cleaner on mine.  And maybe follow up with Novus 1 to 
defog, and keep it cleaner between uses of Novus 2!

As a side note, it also works great on pinball machine playfields.  :)

- Aldwyn


At 09:50 AM 9/2/2008, forzion at maine.rr.com wrote:
>I have a new soft top on my Six and, now that it's about a month or 6 
>weeks "old," I note  that the windows have a cloudy sort of film on them. 
>I haven't 'treated' the windows with anything but did try Windex to clean 
>them -- without success. Has anyone heard of or used an effective product 
>for cleaning convertible top window plastic, removing that cloudy sort of film?
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>Dave Friedlander
>74-Six w/A-Overdrive + TBI
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as aldwyn at sylvancircle.org

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Sep  2 08:14:13 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 10:14:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
Message-ID: <31336509.188351220364853843.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>

Thanks, John;

Your answer seemed to coincide with that of many others who quickly responded to my question (thanks, everyone!) but I thought I'd reply to the List so everyone could get the benefoit of the response. I personally have never heard of the Novus products. Novus 2 seems o be a plastic "scratch remover"
http://www.intropc.com/item-30452-no-2-fine-novus-plastic-polish-pn7030.html
so I wouldn' have thought of it as a product to use on plastic windows.

Again, thanks to all those who responded!

Dave

---- John Cohen <jmcoh at comcast.net> wrote: 
> Dave,
> I used Novus 1 & 2 on my top and it worked wonders.  Cleaned up the
> cloudiness and hazing and it looked new.  It is available from Moss.
> 
> 
> John Cohen
> Rutland, VT
> 1976 TR6
> http://www.triumphowners.com/701
> 
> 
> I have a new soft top on my Six and, now that it's about a month or 6 weeks
> "old," I note  that the windows have a cloudy sort of film on them. I
> haven't 'treated' the windows with anything but did try Windex to clean them
> -- without success. Has anyone heard of or used an effective product for
> cleaning convertible top window plastic, removing that cloudy sort of film?

From Vsnively at aol.com  Tue Sep  2 08:24:58 2008
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 10:24:58 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
Message-ID: <d02.3f4f896a.35eea6ba@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/2/2008 10:19:00 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
forzion at maine.rr.com writes:

Thanks,  John;

Your answer seemed to coincide with that of many others who  quickly 
responded to my question (thanks, everyone!) but I thought I'd reply  to the List so 
everyone could get the benefoit of the response. I personally  have never heard 
of the Novus products. Novus 2 seems o be a plastic "scratch  remover"
http://www.intropc.com/item-30452-no-2-fine-novus-plastic-polish-pn7030.html
so  I wouldn' have thought of it as a product to use on plastic  windows.

Again, thanks to all those who  responded!

Dave

---- John Cohen <jmcoh at comcast.net> wrote:  
> Dave,
> I used Novus 1 & 2 on my top and it worked  wonders.  Cleaned up the
> cloudiness and hazing and it looked  new.  It is available from Moss.
> 
> 
> John  Cohen
> Rutland, VT
> 1976 TR6
>  http://www.triumphowners.com/701
> 
> 
> I have a new soft  top on my Six and, now that it's about a month or 6 weeks
> "old," I  note  that the windows have a cloudy sort of film on them. I
>  haven't 'treated' the windows with anything but did try Windex to clean  
them
> -- without success. Has anyone heard of or used an effective  product for
> cleaning convertible top window plastic, removing that  cloudy sort of  
film?
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) 





It's available at most local motorcycle shops as it's used on polycarbonate  
fairing windshields as well. I thonk Moss offers it, too.
 
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Sep  2 08:29:24 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 10:29:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
In-Reply-To: <28981508.181441220363404551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>
References: <28981508.181441220363404551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>
Message-ID: <000001c90d08$4e872930$210110ac@bobspc>

Dave,
I use BlueMagic Plastic & Plexiglass Cleaner and have great results. There's
other similar products out there. DO NOT ever use a cleaner with Ammonia in
it. Make sure your Windex or Glass Plus is Ammonia free. Ammonia will cloud
plastic! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 9:50 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner

I have a new soft top on my Six and, now that it's about a month or 6 weeks
"old," I note  that the windows have a cloudy sort of film on them. I
haven't 'treated' the windows with anything but did try Windex to clean them
-- without success. Has anyone heard of or used an effective product for
cleaning convertible top window plastic, removing that cloudy sort of film?

Thanks for any help!

Dave Friedlander
74-Six w/A-Overdrive + TBI
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
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6:02 AM

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Sep  2 08:45:22 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 10:45:22 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021043380.25457@isis.mit.edu>

On Sun, 31 Aug 2008, marty sukey wrote:

> Hey, how about a head count if list members going to the Glen so we can keep
> an eye open hoping to spot one another.
>
> Evelyn and Marty Sukey will be there, who else?

I'm there all weekend. I should have both TR6's too.

All things considered, that's something of a miracle, but we won't go 
there.

It'll just be fun to hand with Triumph people and check out some race cars 
at full chat. I'll be at/near the FOT bunch in the paddock.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Sep  2 10:37:20 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob Labuz)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 12:37:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Uncle Jack's Miata Seat Conversion Kit  at The Glen
In-Reply-To: <d64.2999509c.35ee9b54@cs.com>
References: <d64.2999509c.35ee9b54@cs.com>
Message-ID: <200809021237.21066.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Tuesday 02 September 2008 09:36 am, N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
> George and all.
>
> Great!!!  We will have the right folks at The Glen to discuss Uncle Jack's
> Stuff. Tony Drews is bronging some seat conversions and some HD Spindles.
>
> Sean Alexander, who does much of our process engineering, (sheet metal)
> will be there.
>
> Remember the Triumph Party in the Classic Motorsports Olde English Pub in
> the Triumph Paddock Saturday night. Sponsored by Classic Motorsports and
> Moss Motors, this is the pace to be.
>
> Joe A
>
> Joe
Joe,

WHen does the party start on Saturday?

Bob

From Dave.More at encana.com  Tue Sep  2 11:42:40 2008
From: Dave.More at encana.com (More, Dave)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:42:40 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Battery and Charging System
Message-ID: <91F8852290CB774CA3CE7545AB001934024E1E3E@CGYEX007.encana.com>

Have you ever noticed how much better your car runs after you wash it??
Well I've had a similar experience that I don't quite understand. My
battery wasn't bad, but I decided to replace it as it was getting a bit
old. Since I've installed the new battery the car, subjectively at
least, seems to run a LOT better! In addition to starting well it seems
to run better on a fast idle, very smoothly at idle once the car is
warmed up, and it seems far more responsive when driving. So my question
is how does the battery fit into the overall electrical charging system
once the car is running, and could a less than optimal battery in fact
reduce performance? The only direct impact I can think of would be spark
strength but I don't really understand how that could be.

Any ideas?  And no, I didn't wash the car!

This email communication and any files transmitted with it may contain
confidential and or proprietary information and is provided for the use of the
intended recipient only. Any review, retransmission or dissemination of this
information by anyone other than the intended recipient is prohibited.  If you
receive this email in error, please contact the sender and delete this
communication and any copies immediately. Thank you.
http://www.encana.com

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Tue Sep  2 12:04:01 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 11:04:01 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
In-Reply-To: <28981508.181441220363404551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>
References: <28981508.181441220363404551.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web16-z02>
Message-ID: <p06240804c4e330180c7d@[65.98.138.93]>

Novus makes three products just for plastic windows, Heavy Scratch 
remover, Mild Scratch remover, and Plastic window polish.  We have 
used all three, and they all work, the polish is especially  useful 
when preparing the TR6 for the concours judges ...

>I have a new soft top on my Six and, now that it's about a month or 
>6 weeks "old," I note  that the windows have a cloudy sort of film 
>on them. I haven't 'treated' the windows with anything but did try 
>Windex to clean them -- without success. Has anyone heard of or used 
>an effective product for cleaning convertible top window plastic, 
>removing that cloudy sort of film?
>
>Thanks for any help!
>
>Dave Friedlander
>74-Six w/A-Overdrive + TBI


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep  2 12:50:46 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 18:50:46 GMT
Subject: [6pack] successful roadtrip
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV114E69F798A4E2998AE3D3F45F0@phx.gbl>

Phil---The engine should have seemed terribly underpowered if driven with a dead cylinder. Maybe the plug wire was just loose, and not disconnected so far as to where the spark wouldn't jump? That's why I suggested to deliberately pull the wire and do a test drive, to see how this feels.

On the oil pressure...Worn bearings are the usual suspects when the (hot) oil pressure drops. You might get away with just replacing all ten sets of them. Check the journals for obvious scratches, as some of them could be small enough to polish out, without having to grind the crank and rod journals.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Phil Beckman
Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2008 5:28 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] successful roadtrip

Hmmm, excellent thought.  Given that I have no clue how long it was
disconnected I might want to change the oil just as a precaution.

>From Dick's response it seems that my engine is a little tired.  About 10
years ago I replaced the bottom end bearings but other than that there's been
virtually nothing done to the engine over the years other than tune-ups.
Probably should start thinking about a rebuild sometime in the not to distant
future.

Phil Beckman
Libertyville, IL
'73 TR6
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: trsix74 at comcast.net
  To: Phil Beckman ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 6:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] successful roadtrip


  What happens to all that petrol that is not ignited in #6 cylinder? I would
venture to say that there is a large amount of gasoline in the oil if you ran
for a long time with the plug wire disconnected. I think the term is cylinder
wash. Any thoughts?
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Tue Sep  2 13:00:00 2008
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 12:00:00 -0700
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20080902115145.05b540b0@mail.esd.sri.com>

Fellow Sufferers,

I'm replacing thrust washers and oil seals, etc. in a motor that I'll put 
in my daily driver/beater (the rods and mains are Vandervell with only ~20K 
miles on them).

I'm wondering if there's an easy design for a windage tray and/or oil 
baffle --- my favorite roads are twisty I worry about oil starvation.
While I have the motor on the stand it would be simple to fab 
something.  If nothing else, a simple vertical baffle can be tack welded in 
place.

Suggestions anyone?

Thanks,
Cregg Cowan

From pbeckman at ameritech.net  Tue Sep  2 13:25:52 2008
From: pbeckman at ameritech.net (Phil Beckman)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 14:25:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] successful roadtrip
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV114E69F798A4E2998AE3D3F45F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV114E69F798A4E2998AE3D3F45F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <B46ACFF0D522499E9893D90E8FFD17DF@office.CM.NET>

Thanks.  I'll pull the wire this weekend and take it for a drive just to see 
how it feels.

As I said, I replaced all the lower engine bearings about 10 years ago and 
have only put about 7K miles on the car since then.  When I did the bearings 
back then some of the ones I took out were very worn so I'd bet that there 
was some damage to the crank.  Could barely afford the bearings themselves 
back then so I just replaced them, shut my eyes to possible crank damage and 
hoped for the best.

Phil
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: "Phil Beckman" <pbeckman at ameritech.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] successful roadtrip


> Phil---The engine should have seemed terribly underpowered if driven with 
> a dead cylinder. Maybe the plug wire was just loose, and not disconnected 
> so far as to where the spark wouldn't jump? That's why I suggested to 
> deliberately pull the wire and do a test drive, to see how this feels.
>
> On the oil pressure...Worn bearings are the usual suspects when the (hot) 
> oil pressure drops. You might get away with just replacing all ten sets of 
> them. Check the journals for obvious scratches, as some of them could be 
> small enough to polish out, without having to grind the crank and rod 
> journals.
>
> Dick

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Sep  2 14:30:11 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 20:30:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
Message-ID: <BLU118-W52420E49C6CFFC0106F1598E5F0@phx.gbl>

Is Novus available 'over the counter' at local parts stores, or only mailorder
from (for example) Moss or TRF? I've wondered what to do to my windows for
years.

BTW, if anybody has it currently on backorder with TRF, please let me know.
(haha)

Sloane :)
69-Six
20-year old top, amazingly good except for the windows.: [6pack] Soft top
window cleaner> > Novus makes three products just for plastic windows, Heavy
Scratch > remover, Mild Scratch remover, and Plastic window polish. We have >
used all three, and they all work, the polish is especially useful > when
preparing the TR6 for the concours judges ...> > >Dave Friedlander> >74-Six
w/A-Overdrive + TBI
_________________________________________________________________
See what people are saying about Windows Live.  Check out featured posts.
http://www.windowslive.com/connect?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_connect2_082008

From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com  Tue Sep  2 14:31:12 2008
From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 16:31:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OFF446D3CD.891DD3AF-ON852574B8.0070B835-852574B8.0070B83D@CDCLN05.LVS.DUPONT.COM>

I will be out of the office starting  09/02/2008 and will not return until
09/05/2008.

I will have very limited availability during this time.  You may leave me a
voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond when I'm able.
Orders or order inquiries may be sent to:
MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact customer service at
800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1.

For immediate sales assistance, contact Brian Veeder at 800-284-3382
Extension 5579.

Regards, Robert Waldrop


This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail,
in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by
return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly
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not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance
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use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for
transfers of data to third parties.

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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Sep  2 14:41:50 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 13:41:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
In-Reply-To: <6.2.0.14.2.20080902115145.05b540b0@mail.esd.sri.com>
References: <6.2.0.14.2.20080902115145.05b540b0@mail.esd.sri.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6987DE@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Cregg:

        http://www.standardperformance.com/shop/index.php?main_page=product_i
nfo&cPath=10_25&products_id=249

        or

        eBay item #220276503841


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Cregg Cowan
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 12:00 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design

Fellow Sufferers,

I'm replacing thrust washers and oil seals, etc. in a motor that I'll put
in my daily driver/beater (the rods and mains are Vandervell with only ~20K
miles on them).

I'm wondering if there's an easy design for a windage tray and/or oil
baffle --- my favorite roads are twisty I worry about oil starvation.
While I have the motor on the stand it would be simple to fab
something.  If nothing else, a simple vertical baffle can be tack welded in
place.

Suggestions anyone?

Thanks,
Cregg Cowan

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Sep  2 15:00:18 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 17:00:18 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
In-Reply-To: <6.2.0.14.2.20080902115145.05b540b0@mail.esd.sri.com>
References: <6.2.0.14.2.20080902115145.05b540b0@mail.esd.sri.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021652290.25457@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 2 Sep 2008, Cregg Cowan wrote:

> Fellow Sufferers,

Hi,

I don't suffer with my TR6's... perhaps I'm on the wrong list?

:-)

> I'm replacing thrust washers and oil seals, etc. in a motor that I'll put
> in my daily driver/beater (the rods and mains are Vandervell with only ~20K
> miles on them).

And....

> I'm wondering if there's an easy design for a windage tray and/or oil
> baffle --- my favorite roads are twisty I worry about oil starvation.
> While I have the motor on the stand it would be simple to fab
> something.  If nothing else, a simple vertical baffle can be tack welded in
> place.

Two things - the Kastner Comp Prep has a cheap pattern for a baffle setup. 
With $5 worth of 3/16" mild steel, a welder, a grinder and a SAT 
afternoon, you can be in fat city.

Second - please don't ever drive at/near my home or my commute route 
(north of Boston, MA)! If you are concerned about oil starvation, let me 
explain my comments. I drive a race car with sticky tires on various 
autcrosss lots from flat airports to hilly stadium lots. My car sees 
pretty big g-loads and lots of transitions. I have NEVER had an oil 
starvation problem in that car. I admit that I do have the Kastner baffles 
in the oilpan. Note however that I do not have the Kastner oil sump 
extension in there as I have very strong feelings about driving any car 
where the sump hangs down below the frame.

But in all seriousness, you can pretty much toss your TR6 at will and as 
long as the oil level is adequate, I guarantee that oil starvation is not 
a problem assuming that the oiling system is working properly.

> Suggestions anyone?

GET "THE BOOK"

If you have money to burn, there's an FOT project to supply real windage 
trays (with baffles and crank scraper) from Ishihara-Johnson (the name may 
be wrong, but they advertise on eBay). But one of those puppies is over 
$400 and def. NOT recommended for a street driven car (as the benefits are 
outweighed by possible maintenance factors.

> Thanks,
> Cregg Cowan


regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From GSFuqua1 at aol.com  Tue Sep  2 15:10:47 2008
From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 17:10:47 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
Message-ID: <c4f.364e70ae.35ef05d7@aol.com>

Eastwood usually has this in stock and I have seen it before in Marine shops 
and some Auto stores.
 
Gary Fuqua
Classic Sports Cars
Branson, MO
 
Ps...You might also want to check Griot's Garage.  They have some good stuff 
too!



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Sep  2 17:56:38 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 19:56:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Axle Grease - How Much to Use?
Message-ID: <000301c90d57$8c09ad10$210110ac@bobspc>

Folks.....when reassembling the two halves of a TR6 axle, how much grease do
you pack in there? Do you just coat the splines or do you pack it in so that
a bunch squishes out when you press the two halves together?
 
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
 <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Sep  2 18:30:21 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 20:30:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Soft top window cleaner
In-Reply-To: <c4f.364e70ae.35ef05d7@aol.com>
References: <c4f.364e70ae.35ef05d7@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48BDDA9D.2020608@maine.rr.com>

Hey all!

Since this morning, when I first posted the question about how to clear 
the cloudiness/haze
off my soft top windows, most of you applauded the quality of the Novus 
1 and 2 products
(there's even a Novus 3 for serious plastic scratch issues). I checked 
with all the local auto
shops and no one I contacted had Novus. I certainly found Novus online 
but, by the time I
paid for shipping and waited a week, I'd be drumming my fingers waiting 
for the mailman.

So, I bought what I could find locally. I have personally always had 
good luck with Meguiars
products and so bought their Mirror Glaze Clear Plastic Cleaner and 
their Clear Plastic Polish 
(http://www.meguiarsdirect.com/product_detail.asp?T1=MEG+M1708&.)  from 
my local
NAPA store. I first used the cleaner and it was like magic! Instant 
clear, film/haze is gone!
The polish was just the cherry on the sundae and they now look great! I 
am VERY glad the
Windex I had used on a test of a small area left no damage! As several 
people have told
me, NEVER use ammonia based products on the plastic soft top windows. 
I'll remember!!

I'm glad this one worked out so well.... I just wanted to be sure to 
post the results and thank
everyone who wrote, for their responses.

Cheers!

Dave
74-Six


GSFuqua1 at aol.com wrote:

>Eastwood usually has this in stock and I have seen it before in Marine shops 
>and some Auto stores.
> 
>Gary Fuqua
>Classic Sports Cars
>Branson, MO
> 
>Ps...You might also want to check Griot's Garage.  They have some good stuff 
>too!
>
>
>
>**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
>deal here.      
>(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep  2 19:04:34 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 01:04:34 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Axle Grease - How Much to Use?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV12A3149114F039E6A9FDA2F45E0@phx.gbl>

Bob---I don't think one can over-pack this area. Still, there's no need to have excess.   So I just brush the molygrease on and into the male splined half, and using the same stiff brush, reach into the female side as far as possible, to paint around these splines. There will be some excess, pushed back into the recess, as well as some squeezing to the outside. Not much heat generated in this area, so what grease is applied should stay put.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2008 4:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Axle Grease - How Much to Use?

Folks.....when reassembling the two halves of a TR6 axle, how much grease do
you pack in there? Do you just coat the splines or do you pack it in so that
a bunch squishes out when you press the two halves together?
 
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
 <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From rick.carroll at teradyne.com  Tue Sep  2 21:10:00 2008
From: rick.carroll at teradyne.com (rick.carroll at teradyne.com)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 23:10:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rick Carroll/Bos/Teradyne is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OF87048E31.A6BF55C2-ON852574B9.0011651C-852574B9.0011651C@notes.teradyne.com>

I will be out of the office starting  09/02/2008 and will not return until
09/08/2008.

 Please contact Mike Palumbo for urgent issues at 408-451-4303

Regards,

Rick

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Tue Sep  2 21:34:10 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Tue, 2 Sep 2008 23:34:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021043380.25457@isis.mit.edu>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021043380.25457@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com>

I'll be there in the Stag all weekend, arrive Thursday.
Looking forward to the fun, I've never been to The Glen.

Free poster for VTR members:
http://www.vtr.org/eCardImages/WatkinsGlenPoster.jpg

Cheers,
Blake Discher

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Tue Sep  2 22:02:48 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 02 Sep 2008 22:02:48 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com>
References: <ce6.34dbfe35.35ec2ad3@cs.com>
	<BAY123-W12A774B18686FC69D01496BA5D0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021043380.25457@isis.mit.edu>
	<0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <48BE0C68.80805@tscusa.org>

Blake J. Discher wrote:
> I'll be there in the Stag all weekend, arrive Thursday.
> Looking forward to the fun, I've never been to The Glen.
>
> Free poster for VTR members:
> http://www.vtr.org/eCardImages/WatkinsGlenPoster.jpg
>
> Cheers,
> Blake Discher
> _______________________________________________
>   
Susan and I will be there, arriving Wednesday, then at the various 
places Thursday through Sunday.  Have not absorbed the schedules yet, 
I'll do that on the plane.

I may be looking for a few seats for one or two of the winery drives on 
Friday.
I'll take one of those posters Blake!

Ought to be a great scene!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TTA 2009 Charity Drive North American Coordinator
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From george_loriot at hotmail.com  Wed Sep  3 10:42:37 2008
From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 12:42:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] pertronix?
Message-ID: <BLU145-W107FC15D1D01AE7DB4A55F8E5E0@phx.gbl>

Hi Listers

I have a 76 tr6 with pertronix ignition and I suspect the pertronix is sudenly
giving me trouble.  I just did some head work on it, since it began running
rough and a compression test showed 2 adjacent cylinders with very low (15
psi) cranking pressure.  I thought it was the gasket between the cylinders,
but it wasn't obvious that the head gasket was blown after i took it apart.
So anyhow, I had the head milled to about 8.3 c/r (3.495 head thickness and
had the valves and seats ground even though they looked good.  The machinist
did a 3-angle valve job while he was at it. Valve guides were nice and snug.
Is this the beginning of shipwright's disease?

So I reassembled it, following torque specs and torque order in Bentley, got
150 psi on all cylinders, and it started right up. Nice boost in power (thanks
to all who suggested the milling) and ran better than ever.  For a short time.
Then, at one run up to 3000 rpm (light load) it started to miss badly.  Kept
missing, when the engine is warmed up.  And the boost in power seems to be
lost.  Checked the valve lash (when cold) and it seemed fine.  Timing is 10
deg BTDC at idle (the vacuum retard is disconnected) and advances when revving
it up.  But it misses under load, so I can't really check that the pertronix
is still working then.  Has anyone had something like this happen with
pertronix?  Suddenly fails when the engine  heats up?

Gas feed could be the problem, I guess.  The fuel pump seems to be working, I
replaced it a couple of years ago.  Does anyone know how to test it?   Maybe I
should recheck the vavle lash tomorrow, just to be sure.

Any help from the wisdom of the list would be greatlyu appreciated.

George  Loriot
1976 TR6
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Sep  3 10:50:26 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 16:50:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] pertronix?
In-Reply-To: <BLU145-W107FC15D1D01AE7DB4A55F8E5E0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU145-W107FC15D1D01AE7DB4A55F8E5E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F0213B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

George, most people I know with the Pertronix conversion keep a set of points
etc in the trunk as the electronic units have been known to fail.

Re poor idling and running when hot, there was a very nice post to this list a
short time ago from Vance where he described the symptoms and the correction
of the Stromberg temp compensators that will make the motor run rich when
warmed up if they are not working correctly. That might be another avenue to
pursue.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of George
Loriot
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 12:43 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] pertronix?

Hi Listers

I have a 76 tr6 with pertronix ignition and I suspect the pertronix is
sudenly
giving me trouble.  I just did some head work on it, since it began running
rough and a compression test showed 2 adjacent cylinders with very low (15
psi) cranking pressure.  I thought it was the gasket between the cylinders,
but it wasn't obvious that the head gasket was blown after i took it apart.
So anyhow, I had the head milled to about 8.3 c/r (3.495 head thickness and
had the valves and seats ground even though they looked good.  The machinist
did a 3-angle valve job while he was at it. Valve guides were nice and snug.
Is this the beginning of shipwright's disease?

So I reassembled it, following torque specs and torque order in Bentley, got
150 psi on all cylinders, and it started right up. Nice boost in power
(thanks
to all who suggested the milling) and ran better than ever.  For a short
time.
Then, at one run up to 3000 rpm (light load) it started to miss badly.  Kept
missing, when the engine is warmed up.  And the boost in power seems to be
lost.  Checked the valve lash (when cold) and it seemed fine.  Timing is 10
deg BTDC at idle (the vacuum retard is disconnected) and advances when
revving
it up.  But it misses under load, so I can't really check that the pertronix
is still working then.  Has anyone had something like this happen with
pertronix?  Suddenly fails when the engine  heats up?

Gas feed could be the problem, I guess.  The fuel pump seems to be working, I
replaced it a couple of years ago.  Does anyone know how to test it?   Maybe
I
should recheck the vavle lash tomorrow, just to be sure.

Any help from the wisdom of the list would be greatlyu appreciated.

George  Loriot
1976 TR6

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Sep  3 11:15:18 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 13:15:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] pertronix?
In-Reply-To: <BLU145-W107FC15D1D01AE7DB4A55F8E5E0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080903131518.1JLHE.594417.root@mp19>

---- George Loriot <george_loriot at hotmail.com> wrote: 

>   Has anyone had something like this happen with
> pertronix?  Suddenly fails when the engine  heats up?

Last time I saw that, it was the coil...

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Wed Sep  3 12:49:53 2008
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 11:49:53 -0700
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021652290.25457@isis.mit.edu>
References: <6.2.0.14.2.20080902115145.05b540b0@mail.esd.sri.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021652290.25457@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20080903114554.060ce038@mail.esd.sri.com>

Hi Bob,
Thanks for the info.  This looks like something I don't really need to 
worry about
(I'm good at worrying I guess).

I located the Comp Prep manual and indeed Kas' baffle design looks like 
just what I was thinking of.

Also, I promise not to experience oil starvation near your home or 
commute.... ;-)

Regards,
Cregg




At 02:00 PM 9/2/2008, Robert Lang wrote:
>On Tue, 2 Sep 2008, Cregg Cowan wrote:
>
>>Fellow Sufferers,
>
>Hi,
>
>I don't suffer with my TR6's... perhaps I'm on the wrong list?
>
>:-)
>
>>I'm replacing thrust washers and oil seals, etc. in a motor that I'll put
>>in my daily driver/beater (the rods and mains are Vandervell with only ~20K
>>miles on them).
>
>And....
>
>>I'm wondering if there's an easy design for a windage tray and/or oil
>>baffle --- my favorite roads are twisty I worry about oil starvation.
>>While I have the motor on the stand it would be simple to fab
>>something.  If nothing else, a simple vertical baffle can be tack welded in
>>place.
>
>Two things - the Kastner Comp Prep has a cheap pattern for a baffle setup. 
>With $5 worth of 3/16" mild steel, a welder, a grinder and a SAT 
>afternoon, you can be in fat city.
>
>Second - please don't ever drive at/near my home or my commute route 
>(north of Boston, MA)! If you are concerned about oil starvation, let me 
>explain my comments. I drive a race car with sticky tires on various 
>autcrosss lots from flat airports to hilly stadium lots. My car sees 
>pretty big g-loads and lots of transitions. I have NEVER had an oil 
>starvation problem in that car. I admit that I do have the Kastner baffles 
>in the oilpan. Note however that I do not have the Kastner oil sump 
>extension in there as I have very strong feelings about driving any car 
>where the sump hangs down below the frame.
>
>But in all seriousness, you can pretty much toss your TR6 at will and as 
>long as the oil level is adequate, I guarantee that oil starvation is not 
>a problem assuming that the oiling system is working properly.
>
>>Suggestions anyone?
>
>GET "THE BOOK"
>
>If you have money to burn, there's an FOT project to supply real windage 
>trays (with baffles and crank scraper) from Ishihara-Johnson (the name may 
>be wrong, but they advertise on eBay). But one of those puppies is over 
>$400 and def. NOT recommended for a street driven car (as the benefits are 
>outweighed by possible maintenance factors.
>
>>Thanks,
>>Cregg Cowan
>
>
>regards,
>rml
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
>Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
>Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  3 14:24:45 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 13:24:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Pertronix ignition
Message-ID: <103955.34342.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I had a pertronix module go bad in my car after 4 or 5 years of driving.  The
car initially started missing at higher RPMs that gradually went down to
around 2500 before I replaced it.  These things don't last forever!  They are
supposed to be guaranteed so if the pertronix turns out to be the problem you
may be able to get theme to replace it for nothing.  The obvious way to check
to see if this is the problem is to replace the pertronix with the points and
condenser you should ALWAYS

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  3 14:29:05 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 13:29:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Pertronix Ignition
Message-ID: <729546.56061.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Sorry, I apparently hit the wrong key before I completed my message.  The
unsent part is in bold.




I had a pertronix module go bad in my car after 4 or 5 years of driving.  The
car initially started missing at higher RPMs that gradually went down to
around 2500 before I replaced it.  These things don't last forever!  They are
supposed to be guaranteed so if the pertronix turns out to be the problem you
may be able to get them to replace it for nothing.  The obvious way to check
to see if this is the problem is to replace the pertronix with the points and
condenser you should ALWAYS carry in your glove box.
 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI, 69 TR 6 (for sale) 

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Wed Sep  3 15:38:36 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 14:38:36 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Axle Grease - How Much to Use?
Message-ID: <335472.8394.qm@web36104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob - Dick
 
Having just help two friends replace the half shafts in thier
Tr-6's this past couple of weekends with new ones from the TRF I have a
suggestion.
 
 When I did mine 5 years ago I added a grease fitting to the
neck of the out shaft where it just starts to get fat. The new ones from TRF
now come with this grease fitting. So the suggestion is to add a fitting and
when you have it all back together hit it with a couple of shots of grease
till it comes out the back near the u-joint, Also drill a small hole in the
cover at the back of the spline ares to expell the grease.
 
Also note if any
one needs to order new halfshafts, you no longer need the rubber boots at the
top or on the shaft as there is no way they will fit. These shafts are on the
principal as the drive shaft slide piece.
 
Dale



----- Original Message
----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: Bob Danielson
<75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 2, 2008 9:04:34 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Axle Grease -
How Much to Use?

Bob---I don't think one can over-pack this area. Still,
there's no need to have excess.  So I just brush the molygrease on and into
the male splined half, and using the same stiff brush, reach into the female
side as far as possible, to paint around these splines. There will be some
excess, pushed back into the recess, as well as some squeezing to the outside.
Not much heat generated in this area, so what grease is applied should stay
put.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday,
September 2, 2008 4:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Axle Grease - How Much to Use?

Folks.....when reassembling
the two halves of a TR6 axle, how much grease do
you pack in there? Do you
just coat the splines or do you pack it in so that
a bunch squishes out when
you press the two halves together?

Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
<http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Sep  3 15:44:53 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 21:44:53 GMT
Subject: [6pack] pertronix?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV5CA68F87318E5D5F4D934F45E0@phx.gbl>

George---Yes, it's strange that nothing was found in the head gasket area, when the cylinder pressure on adjacent cylinders were low. But that seems to be in the past??

Best now to go back over your work. Check the lash, and look for a broken (outer) valve spring.

You can check your fuel pump volume and pressure by following the Bentley page on this. Clogged fuel filters can be the culprit for engine hesitation, at speed. (This usually starts off as a drop in power, then the misfire, as one carb float bowl can run out before the other)

All said, it's probably the old Pertronix that's the bad guy. A check here would be to pull of any one plug wire at the sparkplug and hold it close to ground. Run the engine at the "misfire speed". The spark jump should be regular. I'd do this easy test on some different plug wires, just to be sure. Go from there...

Dick 


-----Original Message-----
From: George Loriot
Sent: Wednesday, September 3, 2008 9:42 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] pertronix?

Hi Listers

I have a 76 tr6 with pertronix ignition and I suspect the pertronix is sudenly
giving me trouble.  I just did some head work on it, since it began running
rough and a compression test showed 2 adjacent cylinders with very low (15
psi) cranking pressure.  I thought it was the gasket between the cylinders,
but it wasn't obvious that the head gasket was blown after i took it apart.
So anyhow, I had the head milled to about 8.3 c/r (3.495 head thickness and
had the valves and seats ground even though they looked good.  The machinist
did a 3-angle valve job while he was at it. Valve guides were nice and snug.
Is this the beginning of shipwright's disease?

So I reassembled it, following torque specs and torque order in Bentley, got
150 psi on all cylinders, and it started right up. Nice boost in power (thanks
to all who suggested the milling) and ran better than ever.  For a short time.
Then, at one run up to 3000 rpm (light load) it started to miss badly.  Kept
missing, when the engine is warmed up.  And the boost in power seems to be
lost.  Checked the valve lash (when cold) and it seemed fine.  Timing is 10
deg BTDC at idle (the vacuum retard is disconnected) and advances when revving
it up.  But it misses under load, so I can't really check that the pertronix
is still working then.  Has anyone had something like this happen with
pertronix?  Suddenly fails when the engine  heats up?

Gas feed could be the problem, I guess.  The fuel pump seems to be working, I
replaced it a couple of years ago.  Does anyone know how to test it?   Maybe I
should recheck the vavle lash tomorrow, just to be sure.

Any help from the wisdom of the list would be greatlyu appreciated.

George  Loriot
1976 TR6
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Sep  3 16:16:12 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 22:16:12 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Axle Grease - How Much to Use?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV124E588FA3C69503CD8446F45E0@phx.gbl>

List---Dale's post about "Axle Grease" is not included in my last reply, which
was stripped because it was "too long." I didn't save my original reply, but
let's try it again...

Having a grease fitting on the half shafts can't be all bad, but I would
question if one should rely soley on this method. Since these splines don't
readily spread its grease, the only way to check the splines by using a
central fitting would be to assemble these shafts dry, give them several
shots, and disassemble them. Maybe this has already been done by someone?

Older IRS Triumphs had the style of halfshafts that were "sealed" with a nut
on the outer end. If this is what's now being provided for the TR6, be aware
that there might not be a major key/keyway on these shafts. If so, it will be
necessary to watch the orientation of the yokes during reassembly.

Dick

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Sep  3 18:19:54 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 20:19:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Radio Install prep
Message-ID: <48BF29AA.7070103@maine.rr.com>

Hi all!

I was thinking of going out to buy a new stereo radio for my car. The 
stock opening in
my dash support plinth measures 1-3/4 x 4-1/2". Most standard radio 
cases today
measure about 2-1/4 x 7-1/4". Is it safe to cut out that much material 
from the plinth
or is some reinforcement needed/recommended?

Dave
'74-Six

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Sep  3 19:24:12 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 01:24:12 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Radio Install prep
In-Reply-To: <48BF29AA.7070103@maine.rr.com>
References: <48BF29AA.7070103@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F0226E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Dave, the dash support will easily accommodate a standard DIN cage. The
structural nature of the H support is vastly overrated. Expanding the existing
hole slightly for the DIN cage will have no ill effects beyond deducting a few
concourse points.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David
Friedlander
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 8:20 PM
To: 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] Radio Install prep

Hi all!

I was thinking of going out to buy a new stereo radio for my car. The
stock opening in
my dash support plinth measures 1-3/4 x 4-1/2". Most standard radio
cases today
measure about 2-1/4 x 7-1/4". Is it safe to cut out that much material
from the plinth
or is some reinforcement needed/recommended?

Dave
'74-Six

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Sep  3 19:47:36 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 03 Sep 2008 21:47:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Radio Install prep
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F02273@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <48BF29AA.7070103@maine.rr.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F0226E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<48BF3A6A.60403@maine.rr.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F02273@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <48BF3E38.2060606@maine.rr.com>

Thanks, Stan! Very helpful. Sure, a front shot would give me a good idea 
of what the finished
product will look like....

Cheers!

Dave


Foster, Stan wrote:

>Here's the side view. If you like I can take a full frontal picture of the dash so you can see where the edges of the head unit land but this is a normal DIN sleeve installation with a Pioneer head unit.
>
>http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversion/DSCN2032.jpg
>
>Stan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: David Friedlander [mailto:forzion at maine.rr.com]
>Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 9:31 PM
>To: Foster, Stan
>Subject: Re: [6pack] Radio Install prep
>
>Stan;
>
>Interesting. The opening needs to be widened by almost 3" and the height
>by about 1/2". It's that 3" number that 'scared' me. Is that what YOU
>did? What
>size speakers did you use and where did you mount them?
>
>Dave
>
>
>
>Foster, Stan wrote:
>
>  
>
>>Dave, the dash support will easily accommodate a standard DIN cage. The structural nature of the H support is vastly overrated. Expanding the existing hole slightly for the DIN cage will have no ill effects beyond deducting a few concourse points.
>>
>>Stan
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander
>>Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 8:20 PM
>>To: 6 Pack
>>Subject: [6pack] Radio Install prep
>>
>>Hi all!
>>
>>I was thinking of going out to buy a new stereo radio for my car. The
>>stock opening in
>>my dash support plinth measures 1-3/4 x 4-1/2". Most standard radio
>>cases today
>>measure about 2-1/4 x 7-1/4". Is it safe to cut out that much material
>>    
>>
>>from the plinth
>  
>
>>or is some reinforcement needed/recommended?
>>
>>Dave
>>'74-Six

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Sep  3 20:04:51 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 02:04:51 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Radio Install prep
In-Reply-To: <48BF3E38.2060606@maine.rr.com>
References: <48BF29AA.7070103@maine.rr.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F0226E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<48BF3A6A.60403@maine.rr.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F02273@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<48BF3E38.2060606@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F02277@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Here's a wide and a close up shot of the final installation. The Pioneer head
unit fits into a standard DIN sleeve so it is easy to install and remove when
needed.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Audio/DSC_0001.jpg

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Audio/DSC_0004.jpg

Hopefully these images are consistent with what you are observing with your
proposed installation.

Stan

From: David Friedlander [mailto:forzion at maine.rr.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 9:48 PM
To: Foster, Stan
Cc: 6 Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Radio Install prep

Thanks, Stan! Very helpful. Sure, a front shot would give me a good idea of
what the finished
product will look like....

Cheers!

Dave

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Wed Sep  3 21:36:10 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton)
Date: Wed, 3 Sep 2008 23:36:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
References: <6.2.0.14.2.20080902115145.05b540b0@mail.esd.sri.com><Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809021652290.25457@isis.mit.edu>
	<6.2.0.14.2.20080903114554.060ce038@mail.esd.sri.com>
Message-ID: <034e01c90e3f$5fb892b0$6501a8c0@rick>

Hi,

I did add windage tray and baffle as Kastner suggested. You can see the 
project photos at: http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/Fall2003.htm

So far so good four years later. I should mention that the oil pan is about 
the lowest part of the car hanging down below the frame by a good inch. It 
has scraped a couple of times but other than a few scratches it looks fine. 
You just need to be mindful of the clearance.

Rick Patton
Brunswick, Maine
75TR6sci
75 TVR 2500M project
http://pattonmachine.com/



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Cregg Cowan" <cregg.cowan at sri.com>
To: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 03, 2008 2:49 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design

>>>Fellow Sufferers,
snip
>>>I'm wondering if there's an easy design for a windage tray and/or oil
>>>baffle --- my favorite roads are twisty I worry about oil starvation.
snip 

From glccrc at ptd.net  Thu Sep  4 02:21:23 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 04:21:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Glen head count
In-Reply-To: <0BB37196-0E19-4E0B-BDEA-67560039740D@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <12205164697829579@pm9.mailnet.ptd.net>

Naturally when I stopped by the upholstery shop Tues eve the car was left
where I'd parked it that AM, nothing started. A ratty old drivers seat and a
loose door opener still the only interior components.

Finishing packing this AM, blind faith there'll be two seats and some seat
belts installed before we leave for the Glen tonight.
Keep your fingers crossed!

Hopefully we'll see y'all up at the Glen, and not alongside Rte 15. If the
latter, it's the bright blue TR on the side of the road with a pi**sed off
redhead yelling at the darn current owner:)

Safe travels to all, and to all a pertronix that makes it thru one more
weekend.

glc

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Blake J.
Discher
Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2008 11:34 PM
To: Triumph List; 6 Digest
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Glen head count

I'll be there in the Stag all weekend, arrive Thursday.
Looking forward to the fun, I've never been to The Glen.

Free poster for VTR members:
http://www.vtr.org/eCardImages/WatkinsGlenPoster.jpg

Cheers,
Blake Discher
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net

From Timbo00001 at aol.com  Thu Sep  4 08:47:17 2008
From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 10:47:17 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Triumphs at Watkins Glen
Message-ID: <c47.3fd392f4.35f14ef5@aol.com>

_Hemmings  Motor News: Auto Classifieds - Hemmings Auto Classifieds feature 
cars for sale  nation wide._ 
(http://www.hemmings.com/newsletter/newsletter.html?volume=4&issue=13&id=1851&refer=news&emlid=188411#1851)  



**************It's only a deal if it's where you want to go. Find your travel 
deal here.      
(http://information.travel.aol.com/deals?ncid=aoltrv00050000000047)

From osternd at copper.net  Thu Sep  4 11:06:39 2008
From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 10:06:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
Message-ID: <20080904100639.256888F6@resin11.mta.everyone.net>

Speaking of oil starvation - I had problems with my "professionally" rebuilt motor several years ago. I have a steep driveway, and if the oil level was a little low, I would lose oil pressure when I reached the top of the driveway. Turns out the oil pick-up had not been adjusted and was screwed fully into the pump. After adjusting it such that it sat lower in the sump, I never had any more problems with it. Fortunately there was no engine damage, so I guess I dodged a bullet there.

I've never seen any recommendations on adjusting the pick-up, but it made a huge difference for me by setting it as low in the sump as possible. Something worth looking at when assembling your motor -

Dale




At 02:00 PM 9/2/2008, Robert Lang wrote:
>On Tue, 2 Sep 2008, Cregg Cowan wrote:
> 
>>Fellow Sufferers,
> 
>Hi,
> 
>I don't suffer with my TR6's... perhaps I'm on the wrong list?
> 
>:-)
> 
>>I'm replacing thrust washers and oil seals, etc. in a motor that I'll 
put
>>in my daily driver/beater (the rods and mains are Vandervell with only

~20K
>>miles on them).
> 
>And....
> 
>>I'm wondering if there's an easy design for a windage tray and/or oil
>>baffle --- my favorite roads are twisty I worry about oil starvation.
>>While I have the motor on the stand it would be simple to fab
>>something. If nothing else, a simple vertical baffle can be tack 
welded in
>>place.
> 
>Two things - the Kastner Comp Prep has a cheap pattern for a baffle 
setup. 
>With $5 worth of 3/16" mild steel, a welder, a grinder and a SAT 
>afternoon, you can be in fat city.
>
>Second - please don't ever drive at/near my home or my commute route 
>(north of Boston, MA)! If you are concerned about oil starvation, let 
me 
>explain my comments. I drive a race car with sticky tires on various 
>autcrosss lots from flat airports to hilly stadium lots. My car sees 
>pretty big g-loads and lots of transitions. I have NEVER had an oil 
>starvation problem in that car. I admit that I do have the Kastner 
baffles 
>in the oilpan. Note however that I do not have the Kastner oil sump 
>extension in there as I have very strong feelings about driving any car 
>where the sump hangs down below the frame.
>
>But in all seriousness, you can pretty much toss your TR6 at will and 
as 
>long as the oil level is adequate, I guarantee that oil starvation is 
not 
>a problem assuming that the oiling system is working properly.
>
>>Suggestions anyone?
>
>GET "THE BOOK"
>
>If you have money to burn, there's an FOT project to supply real 
windage 
>trays (with baffles and crank scraper) from Ishihara-Johnson (the name 
may 
>be wrong, but they advertise on eBay). But one of those puppies is over 
>$400 and def. NOT recommended for a street driven car (as the benefits 
are 
>outweighed by possible maintenance factors.

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Sep  4 11:24:15 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 17:24:15 +0000
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
In-Reply-To: <20080904100639.256888F6@resin11.mta.everyone.net>
References: <20080904100639.256888F6@resin11.mta.everyone.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F024D1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

The book says:



Screw the strainer into the pump body plate until the measurement between the
pump body face and the end of the strainer gauze is 4.25 inches.



Stan





-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
osternd at copper.net
Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 1:07 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design



Speaking of oil starvation - I had problems with my "professionally" rebuilt
motor several years ago. I have a steep driveway, and if the oil level was a
little low, I would lose oil pressure when I reached the top of the driveway.
Turns out the oil pick-up had not been adjusted and was screwed fully into the
pump. After adjusting it such that it sat lower in the sump, I never had any
more problems with it. Fortunately there was no engine damage, so I guess I
dodged a bullet there.



I've never seen any recommendations on adjusting the pick-up, but it made a
huge difference for me by setting it as low in the sump as possible. Something
worth looking at when assembling your motor -



Dale

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Thu Sep  4 15:24:48 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Thu, 4 Sep 2008 14:24:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  Axle Grease - How Much to Use?
Message-ID: <403218.99482.qm@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Dick
 
There had to be some sort of key in them as I could not twist the two
ends to see if they would get out phase. When they came they were in the
correct 180 oreintation. The new ones that we received were prelubed as the
grease was at the back and the fitting.
 
As you suggested I did prelube mine
being that they were the old style but once on the car with weight on the
suspension I then greased them again.
 
I see your point but in my view the
only other way would be to put some heavy weight oil in to fill any voids,
though I do not like that idea. 
 
With 4 years on the road since the rebuild
and 2 Trial runs done and the 3rd coming up I have not had any problems in
this area.
 
Dale
 



----- Original Message ----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor
<tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: Dale <tpdwinch at yahoo.com>; Bob Danielson
<75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 3, 2008 5:57:05 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Axle Grease
- How Much to Use?


Dale---A couple of things here. The grease fitting
somewhere on the halfshaft can't be a bad idea, but I'd want to see just how
much area this fitting "gets to". I can picture this grease entrance point not
getting up and down all areas of all splines. If one starts with a dry
assembly and gives it multiple shots of grease, then disasembles to check,
then one would know.

The "new" half shafts that have the screw-on nut at the
outer end, and are more or less sealed, might be a carry over from the earlier
Triumph. Be careful if this is the one installed, as there is no major key in
this. Watch the orientation of the yokes during assembly.

Dick
________________________________

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Sep  5 17:23:17 2008
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 5 Sep 2008 16:23:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Hard top
Message-ID: <986832.79346.qm@web51911.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have an after market hardtop in very good condiiton.  I made the missing hardware and used it for one "winter" in Arizona.  So I need the space.  I will consider offers.  Also I would prefer pickup.  I do not want to make a shipping crate.  

John Horton  602-705-8678

From george_loriot at hotmail.com  Sat Sep  6 04:56:59 2008
From: george_loriot at hotmail.com (George Loriot)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 06:56:59 -0400
Subject: [6pack] pertronix?
Message-ID: <BLU145-W43BFB4D3B32B3B7FB623CC8E5B0@phx.gbl>

To the list:Success!  Many helpful suggestions, and the coil was the culprit,
as suggested by a lister. I replaced it with an old one I had kicking around
and no more miss.  So I got a "performance" coil from NAPA and it's running
just fine, with a nice power boost. I'm taking it easy for the next hundred
miles, then retorque the head and adjust the vavles.  Hopefully all will be
well.  And I will buy a points/condensor set for just in case.... And still no
real clue about the near-zero cranking pressure on the 2 adjacent cylinders.
All are at ~150 psi now.    It must have been a leak at the head gasket and I
shut it off as soon as it ran bad, so maybe there was no chance to really
damage the gasket.  Just a wild guess, but it's in the past anyhow. Again,
thanks to all on the list for their speedy and very helpful replies.  It's
great to be back on the twisty vermont roads, with a power boost as well.
George Loriot1976 TR6
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of
your life.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/

From osternd at copper.net  Sat Sep  6 07:27:16 2008
From: osternd at copper.net (dmo)
Date: Sat, 06 Sep 2008 09:27:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F024D1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <20080904100639.256888F6@resin11.mta.everyone.net>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF724FB7F024D1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <48C28534.2080207@copper.net>

Thanks for pointing that out.  I looked in my Haynes manual and no 
mention of it.  Even though it supposedly covers later years of the TR6, 
it show an early pump with no attached screen (though there is one that 
covers the full sump), and therefore no adjustment instruction. 
Checking the factory manual, it does mention the 4.25 inch measurement.

Dale O

Foster, Stan wrote:
> The book says:
> 
>  
> 
> Screw the strainer into the pump body plate until the measurement 
> between the pump body face and the end of the strainer gauze is 4.25 inches.
> 
>  
> 
> Stan
> 
>  
> 
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> osternd at copper.net
> Sent: Thursday, September 04, 2008 1:07 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] seeking easy TR6 windage tray & oil baffle design
> 
>  
> 
> Speaking of oil starvation - I had problems with my "professionally" 
> rebuilt motor several years ago. I have a steep driveway, and if the oil 
> level was a little low, I would lose oil pressure when I reached the top 
> of the driveway. Turns out the oil pick-up had not been adjusted and was 
> screwed fully into the pump. After adjusting it such that it sat lower 
> in the sump, I never had any more problems with it. Fortunately there 
> was no engine damage, so I guess I dodged a bullet there.
> 
>  
> 
> I've never seen any recommendations on adjusting the pick-up, but it 
> made a huge difference for me by setting it as low in the sump as 
> possible. Something worth looking at when assembling your motor -
> 
>  
> 
> Dale

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sat Sep  6 15:15:04 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 14:15:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Electric AC Compressor
Message-ID: <977612.64470.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Down here in Florida Summer's are like winters up north as far as driving my
TR 6 is concerned.  Top down you fry and bake, top up you just bake.  Now that
fall is almost here, notice how we slow learners suffer all Summer before we
get the message, I'm thinking of finally putting AC in my car.  Several of my
friends who are obviously smarter than me have already done this and are
encouraging me to do the same.
 
One of the major problems they have told me about is sourcing an AC mount and
crank pulley.  I've recently noticed that the electric and hybrid vehicles use
an electric compressor instead of one that is crank driven.  I saw one on
e-bay from a Toyota Prius with a buy it now price of $399.  Has anyone out
there done or considered using an electric AC compressor on their 6?  I may
give it a try but prefer not to re invent the wheel if someone else has
already done it and of course if I don't discover from someone that it can't
be done.
 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 (hot in Fla summers) but the hardotp and AC should
work well.    

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Sep  6 11:26:45 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 12:26:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 with XR700
Message-ID: <380-22008966172645968@earthlink.net>

While investigating a low speed ignition stumble on my TR6, which turned
out to be the spring loaded carbon center brush in the distributor cap had
given up, I see that the optical pick-up on my Crane Cams Fireball XR700
unit has three wires that exit where the flexible lead from the original
points was. I am not happy that when the vacuum unit operates those wires
drag through the opening, restricting the motion.

What is the preferred method to route these wires? The PO did not have a
working vacuum unit and this was not an issue with him when the XR700 was
installed.

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sat Sep  6 11:29:06 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sat, 6 Sep 2008 12:29:06 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Leaky TR6
Message-ID: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>

Yesterday, while driving home from a Triumph event, I was forced to put the TR6s top up during a heavy rain. I now have two more questions. When I installed the new top on the TR6, I left the windshield header to soft top rubber weather strip off because I was unsure which way the lip was supposed to face. I sure now know the purpose of the seal. What direction does the lip go?
 
With the top up, I get engine fumes coming up through the gear shift boot. Is there a way to seal that area that will keep the fumes from the interior of the car?
 
 
Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN

From hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net  Sun Sep  7 12:10:28 2008
From: hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net (Hugh R McAleer)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 14:10:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250
In-Reply-To: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <EEEC636685BB4BEEB8E823F2C8480C17@FoxconnPC>

ISTR that someone was selling a ** New ** Improved ** voltage stabilizer.

Anyone have contact info for the party that was selling it and / or have 
experience with that unit?

TIA

HughMcAleer
Zebulon, GA 

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep  7 13:31:34 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 12:31:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Leaky TR6
Message-ID: <485175.49820.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Greg,

Does your shift boot have the rubber seal around the transmission tunnel intact? The seal is tight on mine, I think it would seal out most fumes. Is there a massive exhaust leak?

http://i63.photobucket.com/albums/h138/tr6login/IMG_2917L.jpg

Kendall



----- Original Message ----
From: Greg Gelhar <ggelhar at earthlink.net>

With the top up, I get engine fumes coming up through the gear shift boot. Is there a way to seal that area that will keep the fumes from the interior of the car?

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Sep  7 14:47:44 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 16:47:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250
In-Reply-To: <EEEC636685BB4BEEB8E823F2C8480C17@FoxconnPC>
References: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>
	<EEEC636685BB4BEEB8E823F2C8480C17@FoxconnPC>
Message-ID: <E74A9C48A2DB4058B352D8B3BE9B45AB@bobspc>

The latest Moss catalog (page A26) has a new solid state stabilizer #131-555
for $16.95.  However if you go to their site and search it returns a picture
of the old stabilizer......same part number and price. So, you might want to
call them and order the old fashion way.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Hugh R McAleer
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 2:10 PM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250

ISTR that someone was selling a ** New ** Improved ** voltage stabilizer.

Anyone have contact info for the party that was selling it and / or have
experience with that unit?

TIA

HughMcAleer
Zebulon, GA
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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8:07 PM

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun Sep  7 16:31:19 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 07 Sep 2008 18:31:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250
In-Reply-To: <E74A9C48A2DB4058B352D8B3BE9B45AB@bobspc>
References: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>
	<EEEC636685BB4BEEB8E823F2C8480C17@FoxconnPC>
	<E74A9C48A2DB4058B352D8B3BE9B45AB@bobspc>
Message-ID: <48C45637.5070407@snet.net>

Actually, I have one for back up- and they do look alike.  (Note-I'm 
still using an original):)    John

Bob Danielson wrote:
> The latest Moss catalog (page A26) has a new solid state stabilizer #131-555
> for $16.95.  However if you go to their site and search it returns a picture
> of the old stabilizer......same part number and price. So, you might want to
> call them and order the old fashion way.
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Hugh R McAleer
> Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 2:10 PM
> To: 6pack
> Subject: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250
>
> ISTR that someone was selling a ** New ** Improved ** voltage stabilizer.
>
> Anyone have contact info for the party that was selling it and / or have
> experience with that unit?
>
> TIA
>
> HughMcAleer
> Zebulon, GA
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
> incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
> Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.17/1657 - Release Date: 9/6/2008
> 8:07 PM
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net

From hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net  Sun Sep  7 16:37:18 2008
From: hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net (Hugh R McAleer)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 18:37:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250
In-Reply-To: <48C45637.5070407@snet.net>
References: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>
	<EEEC636685BB4BEEB8E823F2C8480C17@FoxconnPC>
	<E74A9C48A2DB4058B352D8B3BE9B45AB@bobspc> <48C45637.5070407@snet.net>
Message-ID: <3D2B0D351F514C26A1949C72F3735351@FoxconnPC>

Thanks to all.

Hugh
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Cc: "'Hugh R McAleer'" <hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net>; "'6pack'" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 6:31 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250


> Actually, I have one for back up- and they do look alike.  (Note-I'm still 
> using an original):)    John
>
> Bob Danielson wrote:
>> The latest Moss catalog (page A26) has a new solid state stabilizer 
>> #131-555
>> for $16.95.  However if you go to their site and search it returns a 
>> picture
>> of the old stabilizer......same part number and price. So, you might want 
>> to
>> call them and order the old fashion way.
>>
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
>> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
>> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Hugh R McAleer
>> Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 2:10 PM
>> To: 6pack
>> Subject: [6pack] Voltage stabilizer for TR250
>>
>> ISTR that someone was selling a ** New ** Improved ** voltage stabilizer.
>>
>> Anyone have contact info for the party that was selling it and / or have
>> experience with that unit?
>>
>> TIA
>>
>> HughMcAleer
>> Zebulon, GA

From lindquistse at charter.net  Sun Sep  7 16:59:49 2008
From: lindquistse at charter.net (Steve Lindquist)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 18:59:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carb dash pot oil
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1220810401.14533.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000001c9113d$6e621a10$f7cafea9@computerroom>

What weight oil are folks using in their carburetor dashpots?  I know this
has been asked and answered many times.

Thanks, Steve

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Sep  7 17:05:56 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 19:05:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carb dash pot oil
In-Reply-To: <000001c9113d$6e621a10$f7cafea9@computerroom>
References: <mailman.5.1220810401.14533.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<000001c9113d$6e621a10$f7cafea9@computerroom>
Message-ID: <000001c9113e$491d20a0$6601a8c0@Robert>

What weight oil are folks using in their carburetor dashpots.



20/50

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun Sep  7 17:00:43 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 23:00:43 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Carb dash pot oil
In-Reply-To: <000001c9113d$6e621a10$f7cafea9@computerroom>
References: <mailman.5.1220810401.14533.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<000001c9113d$6e621a10$f7cafea9@computerroom>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452B924@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I did a quick check back through the archives and it seems 20W or 30W was the
consensus.



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve
Lindquist
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 7:00 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Carb dash pot oil

What weight oil are folks using in their carburetor dashpots?  I know this
has been asked and answered many times.

Thanks, Steve

From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Sun Sep  7 17:47:49 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 19:47:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric AC Compressor
References: <977612.64470.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c91144$23a3b770$6101a8c0@phoenix>

Mike,

>From the quick Google searching it appears to be a major, if not near
impossible, task because it requires practically all of the Prius
electronics along with the expensive battery system.

I'm in the middle of an A/C conversion in my 250 using a Vintage Air Gen II
Mini evaporator and a Sanden 505 compressor with complete rewiring of the
car using Dan Masters' Powerblock and a GM CS130 105 amp alternator.  With
the compressor, SLR576 driving lights, 19 amp electric fan, and a modern
sound system I figure the car needs at least 85 amps.  It's all a tight fit
but should work.  The only unknown is how much engine movement there will be
to the driver's side on acceleration and whether the clearance between the
GM alternator and inner wheel well is sufficient.  The compressor is mounted
using late TR6 front engine plate and mounting block, pretty much putting
the compressor where the air pump would normally go and running it off of a
late TR6 dual pulley water pump.  It also required use of the later 1/2"
damper.

There is extensive use of Dynamat Extreme insulation although I'm not
planning on covering every square inch of exposed underdash metal.  I'm
trying to keep the Dynamat out of sight, such as not putting it around the
pedal box.  If it turns out I really need to then I can always go back and
add it later.

I added a couple of photos at
http://www.triumphowners.com/collection.cgi?task=PHOTO&photocategoryID=1755&sectionID=111032
but more detailed information will be following in the near term.

As a last comment, there are conversion brackets for York compressor mounts 
to modern Sanden compressors if you decide to use the stock TR6 A/C setup. 
But do not use the original crank pulley - it's a bad design that supposedly 
places undue stress on the crank because of its length.

Greg Dito
CD6250L


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
Subject: [6pack] Electric AC Compressor


>
> One of the major problems they have told me about is sourcing an AC mount 
> and
> crank pulley.  I've recently noticed that the electric and hybrid vehicles 
> use
> an electric compressor instead of one that is crank driven.  ...from a 
> Toyota Prius...Has anyone out
> there done or considered using an electric AC compressor on their 6?

From janah at att.net  Sun Sep  7 18:47:26 2008
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 20:47:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates
Message-ID: <301734EFD1A54554A5720F6E3410D5B3@p4home>

Hi All-

Looking for some thoughts on the aircraft grade aluminum engine plates?  The
front one and the Transmission support plate.  Are these strong enough?

John Cyg

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Sun Sep  7 19:37:35 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Sun, 7 Sep 2008 20:37:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates
In-Reply-To: <301734EFD1A54554A5720F6E3410D5B3@p4home>
Message-ID: <E1KcVhG-00060S-Vq@elasmtp-masked.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I have two races on mine so far and no problems. It did lighten my car by
ten pounds which is a good because I was able to add the weight back at the
right rear where I needed it to balance the car better.

Mike Munson
Bowling Green, KY
#28 EP TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+fasttrs=mindspring.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John Cyganowski
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 7:47 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates

Hi All-

Looking for some thoughts on the aircraft grade aluminum engine plates?  The
front one and the Transmission support plate.  Are these strong enough?

John Cyg
_______________________________________________

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Sep  7 23:47:19 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 05:47:19 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Carb dash pot oil
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV108E31386E63867C89419DF4550@phx.gbl>

Steve---It would seem that the "best" dashpot oil depends on how rich or lean one has set the (adjustable type) carbs. Rich mixtures tolerate a thinner oil, which allows the air valves to rise a little quicker, without stumbling. Conversely, the lean-to-optimum air/fuel mix could require a thicker oil, such as the 20w/50.  It's easy enough to suck out the oil and try different blends, if you wish. Let the level of acceleration you desire determine the wt. of the oil. Tests need be taken well below the 3,000rpm mark, as the oil has very little influence on the rise of the pistons above this engine speed.
Best to leave the stock air valve springs in place, on street engines.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Steve Lindquist
Sent: Sunday, September 7, 2008 3:59 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Carb dash pot oil

What weight oil are folks using in their carburetor dashpots?  I know this
has been asked and answered many times.

Thanks, Steve
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  8 03:46:53 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 02:46:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
Message-ID: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

List,

I've been putting off this email for awhile now. It was actually way back at new years eve '08 that my new engine started making very bad sounds. It didn't really start rattling until I had been on the freeway for 40 miles or so, the longest trip that I had taken the new engine on yet.  The problem likely existed much earlier but when oil pressure was up I didn't hear any knocking. After towing the car back to my apt I didn't open the engine for awhile because I didn't have the time or money (or motivation) to get into it. I've since secured a garage to work in and now need to finish the job before the TR6 wears out its welcome!

Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#

So we now know what what the loud noise was, but the question is why, and what do I do to keep it from happening again?

The rust on the rocker arm is curious. But the car sat for quite awhile after the tow home, and I had to start it up and run the engine for a few seconds to occasionally move the car. Seem like there was no oil on the rocker arm to keep the rust off it.

What are the possible causes for a rod bearing to spin? This engine probably had less than 5 hours on it.

I had the machine shop put the bottom end together, because I didn't want to screw up a ring or something. I did the rest of the engine assembly, cam timing etc. How likely is it that this is the result of a mistake on their end?

Interested to hear what you guys have to say. This is late night email for me so hopefully it's coherent!

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  8 04:00:01 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 03:00:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Socal machine shop
Message-ID: <155240.60344.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Dick and other socal listers,

Follow up to the engine damage email I just sent. Where should I take my engine to have them deterime if the crank is scrap and do the new machine work? I know the triumph engine isn't really exotic, but I think i'd like to go with someone who has seen them before this time...  I'm in south orange county and work in Irvine. But really I'm willing to take it anywhere in socal. Thanks!

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep  8 06:52:25 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:52:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452BA16@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Kendall, can you confirm that you had oil in this engine and that you had oil
pressure ?. For an engine with only 5 hours on it I would expect to still see
signs of assembly lube but the conditions of the journal and the bearing
failure make me wonder if there was any oil in the engine at all or if the
pump was working or installed incorrectly.. Did you verify at startup that you
had oil supply to the head because again, I would have expected a liberal
coating of oil on the rocker assembly and the top surface of the head but I
see none and the front rockers are rusting !.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall
Larsen
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 5:47 AM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

List,

I've been putting off this email for awhile now. It was actually way back at
new years eve '08 that my new engine started making very bad sounds. It didn't
really start rattling until I had been on the freeway for 40 miles or so, the
longest trip that I had taken the new engine on yet.  The problem likely
existed much earlier but when oil pressure was up I didn't hear any knocking.
After towing the car back to my apt I didn't open the engine for awhile
because I didn't have the time or money (or motivation) to get into it. I've
since secured a garage to work in and now need to finish the job before the
TR6 wears out its welcome!

Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#

So we now know what what the loud noise was, but the question is why, and what
do I do to keep it from happening again?

The rust on the rocker arm is curious. But the car sat for quite awhile after
the tow home, and I had to start it up and run the engine for a few seconds to
occasionally move the car. Seem like there was no oil on the rocker arm to
keep the rust off it.

What are the possible causes for a rod bearing to spin? This engine probably
had less than 5 hours on it.

I had the machine shop put the bottom end together, because I didn't want to
screw up a ring or something. I did the rest of the engine assembly, cam
timing etc. How likely is it that this is the result of a mistake on their
end?

Interested to hear what you guys have to say. This is late night email for me
so hopefully it's coherent!

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep  8 08:28:43 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 07:28:43 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates
In-Reply-To: <301734EFD1A54554A5720F6E3410D5B3@p4home>
References: <301734EFD1A54554A5720F6E3410D5B3@p4home>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E63AC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        John:

        Don't forget about fatigue resistance. Aluminum has poor fatigue life
compared to steel. While the front engine plate is lightly stressed and would
be a good candidate for replacement, the rear plate is what melds the engine
into a single unit. The front of the engine and the rear of the tranny are
supported, but there is not support near the rear engine plate.
        I would worry about flex between the two components, and resulting
cracks in the plate. I think to really answer that questions would require
some stress analysis. Intuitively, it seems questionable as to the longevity
of an identical rear plate fabricated from alloy. Just my $0.02.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John Cyganowski
Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 5:47 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates

Hi All-

Looking for some thoughts on the aircraft grade aluminum engine plates?  The
front one and the Transmission support plate.  Are these strong enough?

John Cyg

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep  8 10:10:23 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 09:10:23 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E64B4@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Kendall:

        I will assume for a moment that there was oil in the engine, and that
the oil pressure was good. What are the possible causes?

        1. A defect in the bearing or the crank finish for that journal. This
can be created during assembly, as well as being part of the machining or
manufacturing process.
        2. Lack of assembly lube in that journal for startup - although if the
engine is primed before startup it should not matter too much.
        3. Incorrect bearing tolerance. This can be due to an error during
machining, *OR* installing the wrong rod cap or INSTALLING IT BACKWARDS.
        4. Contamination of the oil. If this were the case, I would expect all
of the bearings to show some damage, not just #1.

        CONTINUED IN NEXT MESSAGE TO AVOID HITTING THE TEXT LIMIT

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kendall Larsen
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 2:47 AM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

List,

<snip>

Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#

So we now know what what the loud noise was, but the question is why, and what
do I do to keep it from happening again?

The rust on the rocker arm is curious.

What are the possible causes for a rod bearing to spin? This engine probably
had less than 5 hours on it.

<snip>

Kendall

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep  8 10:12:24 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 09:12:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy Part II
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E64C4@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Continued from previous message.

        You have damage in other bearings, not just the #1 crank throw.
However given the chunks laying in the pan it is possible that the damage to
the main bearing and the cam bearing are collateral. Clearly the crank throw
is toast - it looks unrepairable to me unless you are willing to spend big $$.
Better to source another crank. You will also need to install cam bearings as
the journal for the cam in the block is almost certainly damaged as well.
        Given the severe damage to the #1 crank throw - I will say that there
was a bearing clearance problem on that journal - it was too tight. This can
be due to a wrong size bearing or mis-sized journal. It is also possible to
install the wrong bearing cap on the rod, or install the cap backwards, which
will also cause damage.
        If the machinist assembled the bottom end, I would say it is his
responsibility. The bearing clearances are supposed to be checked, and when
the bottom end is assembled the machinist should have spun the crank to make
sure it moved freely. Trust me, if install a bearing cap incorrectly or there
is a tolerance problem, you CANNOT move the crank by hand. Ask me how I know.

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kendall Larsen
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 2:47 AM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

List,

<snip>

Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.

http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#

So we now know what what the loud noise was, but the question is why, and what
do I do to keep it from happening again?

The rust on the rocker arm is curious.

What are the possible causes for a rod bearing to spin? This engine probably
had less than 5 hours on it.

<snip>

Kendall

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep  8 10:17:13 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 09:17:13 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Socal machine shop
In-Reply-To: <155240.60344.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <155240.60344.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E64D8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Kendall:

        Many (most?) machine shops send crankshafts to a specialist to get
them ground and balanced. Look for a machine shop that specializes in
crankshafts. They often have a name like "crankshaft services" or some such,
indicating that they are not a general purpose machine operation.
        They *MIGHT* be able to hard weld and remachine the crank, but often
it is much cheaper to source another rebuilt crank. I suspect it will be the
latter case with yours, as the throw looks severely damaged to my untrained
eye.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kendall Larsen
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 3:00 AM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] Socal machine shop

Hi Dick and other socal listers,

Follow up to the engine damage email I just sent. Where should I take my
engine to have them deterime if the crank is scrap and do the new machine
work? I know the triumph engine isn't really exotic, but I think i'd like to
go with someone who has seen them before this time...  I'm in south orange
county and work in Irvine. But really I'm willing to take it anywhere in
socal. Thanks!

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Mon Sep  8 11:19:57 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 13:19:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 5:46 AM, Kendall Larsen <mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#
Yeah - someone made a good point  - the top end looks BONE DRY.
What's the reason for that?
was it somehow cleaned up before the picture was taken?  (if so, I'd love to
know how)

Someone who knows more about the oiling paths than me might be able to
comment on whether or not it is possible that there are blockages in the
system that still allow for normal oil pressure readings even though little
/ no oil is getting out to where it needs to go.



Sorry to read / see your bad news.

Scott
-- 
Signature below blatantly stolen from Bud Rolofson:

70TR6 CC5#### (Good 6)
63TR4 CT157## (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
64TR4 CT25### (The Project)
97F-150 L TRUCKO (Triumph Support Vehicle)
1989 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (economic commuter Vehicle)

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Mon Sep  8 11:43:53 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 13:43:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy Part II
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E64C4@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <001101c911da$76a223d0$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Was this engine assemble than left in a corner,
some place for around a year or so.
Than placed in the car to run.
Craig
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: "Kendall Larsen" <mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>; "6pack List" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 12:12 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy Part II


>        Continued from previous message.
>
>        You have damage in other bearings, not just the #1 crank throw.
> However given the chunks laying in the pan it is possible that the damage 
> to
> the main bearing and the cam bearing are collateral. Clearly the crank 
> throw
> is toast - it looks unrepairable to me unless you are willing to spend big 
> $$.
> Better to source another crank. You will also need to install cam bearings 
> as
> the journal for the cam in the block is almost certainly damaged as well.
>        Given the severe damage to the #1 crank throw - I will say that 
> there
> was a bearing clearance problem on that journal - it was too tight. This 
> can
> be due to a wrong size bearing or mis-sized journal. It is also possible 
> to
> install the wrong bearing cap on the rod, or install the cap backwards, 
> which
> will also cause damage.
>        If the machinist assembled the bottom end, I would say it is his
> responsibility. The bearing clearances are supposed to be checked, and 
> when
> the bottom end is assembled the machinist should have spun the crank to 
> make
> sure it moved freely. Trust me, if install a bearing cap incorrectly or 
> there
> is a tolerance problem, you CANNOT move the crank by hand. Ask me how I 
> know.
>
>        Vance
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
> Of
> Kendall Larsen
> Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 2:47 AM
> To: 6pack List
> Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
>
> List,
>
> <snip>
>
> Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.
>
> http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#
>
> So we now know what what the loud noise was, but the question is why, and 
> what
> do I do to keep it from happening again?
>
> The rust on the rocker arm is curious.
>
> What are the possible causes for a rod bearing to spin? This engine 
> probably
> had less than 5 hours on it.
>
> <snip>
>
> Kendall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep  8 11:45:06 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 17:45:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452BB59@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Oil to the head comes through the rear main cam bearing. There is a hole at
the top and bottom of the bearing and there is a spiral groove in the rear cam
journal whose purpose apparently is to reduce the flow of oil to the head.
There is a hole in the head gasket to allow oil to flow though the pathway
from the cam bearing and into a corresponding hole in the head. Oil then comes
up through the rear rocker pedestal and down the shaft to the rockers etc. It
is a good idea when starting a new engine to make sure you see oil coming out
and lubing the top of the engine. I did this check and there is a long story
of what happened next that I wont bore you with again.

If this pathway is blocked it is easy to get great oil pressure and destroy
the rocker assembly in a few mins. Another good reason for lots of assembly
lube, it may be all that is protecting your engine for many seconds.

I don't know if it is possible to install the head gasket the wrong way around
to obscure that hole. If you have the block bored for spit cam bearings the
machinist needs to know to align the holes in the bearings with the holes in
the block.

I have a rocker arm that has been out of a car for years and it still has a
good coat of oil on it. The one in this picture looks like it is growing
barnacles and that as they say is a puzzlement.

Stan



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Scott
Tilton
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 1:20 PM
To: Kendall Larsen
Cc: 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 5:46 AM, Kendall Larsen
<mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#
Yeah - someone made a good point  - the top end looks BONE DRY.
What's the reason for that?
was it somehow cleaned up before the picture was taken?  (if so, I'd love to
know how)

Someone who knows more about the oiling paths than me might be able to
comment on whether or not it is possible that there are blockages in the
system that still allow for normal oil pressure readings even though little
/ no oil is getting out to where it needs to go.



Sorry to read / see your bad news.

Scott

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep  8 12:27:31 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 11:27:31 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Exhaust fumes in cabin
In-Reply-To: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>
References: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E6660@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Greg:

        There should be a separate rubber boot inside the shift gaiter. That
rubber boot is probably missing completely, torn or not installed properly.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Greg Gelhar
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 10:29 AM
To: triumphs; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Leaky TR6

<snip>

With the top up, I get engine fumes coming up through the gear shift boot. Is
there a way to seal that area that will keep the fumes from the interior of
the car?


Greg Gelhar

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep  8 12:34:04 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 11:34:04 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E666A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Scott:

        Oooooh. Good point. There is absolutely no oil visible in the top end.
I would check to see if the small bolt in the back of the head that is used to
plug the oil gallery is too long. This is the location where the add on oil
pipes connect to the head to supplement the oil flow to the rockers. Stock is
for there to be a short bolt with a copper washer fitted to plug the hole left
from drilling the oil gallery in the head. If the bolt is too long, you will
plug the oil gallery completely for the rockers and the top end runs without
oil.

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Scott Tilton
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 10:20 AM
To: Kendall Larsen
Cc: 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

On Mon, Sep 8, 2008 at 5:46 AM, Kendall Larsen
<mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.
> http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#

Yeah - someone made a good point  - the top end looks BONE DRY.
What's the reason for that?
was it somehow cleaned up before the picture was taken?  (if so, I'd love to
know how)

Someone who knows more about the oiling paths than me might be able to
comment on whether or not it is possible that there are blockages in the
system that still allow for normal oil pressure readings even though little
/ no oil is getting out to where it needs to go.

Sorry to read / see your bad news.

Scott
--

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Mon Sep  8 12:49:31 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 11:49:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Temp gauge failure
Message-ID: <813159.55261.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The temperature gauge on my TR6 is the one instrument that has worked without
much deviation or any failure for years - until now.  The normal operating
temperature usually reads slightly below the 1/2 mark, but for the past week
it wouldn't go up over the 1/4 mark.  Now nothing - it won't budge off the
bottom.  I've fiddled around behind the dash to make sure that everything is
connected, and traced the wire up to the sensor near the thermostat.  I think
that it all seems where it's supposed to be.  Any ideas?  Do these things just
die?  I did replace the voltage stabilizer last year when it was on the fritz,
but don't know if there's any connection.

Thanks in advance.

Joe Merone
South Burlington, VT
CF18928

Just back from The Glen
4 nights with the wife
in a tent!
850 miles r/t 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Sep  8 13:01:56 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 19:01:56 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Socal machine shop
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV8DAFCE15D9638E2870FBBF4550@phx.gbl>

Kendall---When it came time for a cylinder bore, I gave the block to United Auto Engine. It's a machine shop on Gage Ave. a couple of miles from my home in Downey, where you visited a few years ago. They hot tanked the block and bored it +.020 to match the pistons I supplied. They also reworked the crank to a +.020, again with the parts supplied by me.

Other major grinding (flywheel, valves, and the like) work was done locally by CC Performance, on Lakewood Blvd. in Lakewood.

If you need their phone numbers, I can dig them out of my records.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Kendall Larsen
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 3:00 AM
To: 6pack List
Cc: Dick Taylor
Subject: Socal machine shop

Hi Dick and other socal listers,

Follow up to the engine damage email I just sent. Where should I take my engine to have them deterime if the crank is scrap and do the new machine work? I know the triumph engine isn't really exotic, but I think i'd like to go with someone who has seen them before this time...  I'm in south orange county and work in Irvine. But really I'm willing to take it anywhere in socal. Thanks!

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Mon Sep  8 13:14:32 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:14:32 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Temp gauge failure
Message-ID: <c92.3476ef57.35f6d398@aol.com>

Joe,
 
If it died suddenly I might suspect a wiring issue but since it quietly  
passed away, I'd check the sensor.  I'm not sure how much the  resistance (i.e., 
how many ohms) should change but you should see some change  between cold 
engine and normal engine.  Have you tried removing the sensor  lead and grounding 
it for a few seconds to see if you get any swing from the  gauge?
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 9/8/2008 2:56:15 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
jmerone at rocketmail.com writes:

for the  past week
it wouldn't go up over the 1/4 mark.  Now nothing - it won't  budge off the
bottom. 




**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.      
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep  8 13:31:19 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 12:31:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
Message-ID: <471416.99785.qm@web82604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi All,

Thanks for all the replies, I don't have time to reply individually at the moment but want to answer a few of the questions right off.

1.) There was pre-lube
2.) I can't remember how long it sat after bottom end assembly, maybe 1 month? Maybe not at all?
3.) Oil pressure was verified before starting by running the pump with a drill
4.) It's my understanding that oil doesn't flow to the top end unless the cam is spinning to 'pump' it up there with the flat spot on it's journal allowing oil to move by.
5.) The rocker arm isn't seized up at all. Even though it rusted while the engine basically didn't run for 7 months. But yeah it should be covered in oil.
6.) Yes it had oil in it, and yes the oil pressure was good while driving.
7.) There is lots of collateral damage on the other surfaces because I ran lots of metal bits through it for awhile.
8.) Even after the engine made LOUD noise on the freeway, when started later it would briefly knock on start up until oil pressure came up. Then I had to put my ear on the valve cover to hear the knock. 
9.) There are some bits of sealant that squeezed out, and broke off and ended up in the pan. It's possible one of these blocked an oil gallery but running brushes through the oil galleries didn't producing anything.
10.)The bearing caps were on the right direction. 
11.) It was hard to turn the crank by hand even before the valves were hooked up. I figured this was due to the new rings and bearings. My memory is a bit fuzzy on this though. Should a freshly assembled bottom end turn easily just by grabbing the crank snout?

Kendall

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Mon Sep  8 13:37:10 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 15:37:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Exhaust fumes in cabin
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E6660@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <380-2200896617296421@earthlink.net>,
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F6E6660@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF87A9F12E@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

There should be no reason to seal the cabin, except from hot air or cold
drafts.  IF you are smelling exhaust, then you have have a leaky exhaust and
it needs to be repaired.  Not to do so is very dangerous.  Most states have
inspection requirments that demand this.

Yep there is a rubber boot around the shift lever, and it wears out pretty
quickly.

________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net
[6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance [vance.navarrette at intel.com]
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 2:27 PM
To: ggelhar at earthlink.net; 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust fumes in cabin

        Greg:

        There should be a separate rubber boot inside the shift gaiter. That
rubber boot is probably missing completely, torn or not installed properly.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Greg Gelhar
Sent: Saturday, September 06, 2008 10:29 AM
To: triumphs; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Leaky TR6

<snip>

With the top up, I get engine fumes coming up through the gear shift boot. Is
there a way to seal that area that will keep the fumes from the interior of
the car?


Greg Gelhar
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Sep  8 13:41:36 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 19:41:36 GMT
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV47E5C26C1272D78D048BAF4550@phx.gbl>

Kendall---In another post to you, I recommended a machine shop not too far from you.

I would agree with others who suggested that if the oil supply was good, the engine was probably misassembled. Either too tight, or with a backward cap. Caps are identified by matching numbers stamped on the block, or rod. The numbers should always be on the same side. This will align the "anti spin" feature, which normally would prevent a bearing from spinning when under duress.

The lack of oil to the rocker could be from a partially blocked passage in the cam bearing. 

Dick 


-----Original Message-----
From: Kendall Larsen
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 2:46 AM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

List,

I've been putting off this email for awhile now. It was actually way back at new years eve '08 that my new engine started making very bad sounds. It didn't really start rattling until I had been on the freeway for 40 miles or so, the longest trip that I had taken the new engine on yet.  The problem likely existed much earlier but when oil pressure was up I didn't hear any knocking. After towing the car back to my apt I didn't open the engine for awhile because I didn't have the time or money (or motivation) to get into it. I've since secured a garage to work in and now need to finish the job before the TR6 wears out its welcome!

Here are some pathology pics of the damage. Cylinder 1 rod bearing spun.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#

So we now know what what the loud noise was, but the question is why, and what do I do to keep it from happening again?

The rust on the rocker arm is curious. But the car sat for quite awhile after the tow home, and I had to start it up and run the engine for a few seconds to occasionally move the car. Seem like there was no oil on the rocker arm to keep the rust off it.

What are the possible causes for a rod bearing to spin? This engine probably had less than 5 hours on it.

I had the machine shop put the bottom end together, because I didn't want to screw up a ring or something. I did the rest of the engine assembly, cam timing etc. How likely is it that this is the result of a mistake on their end?

Interested to hear what you guys have to say. This is late night email for me so hopefully it's coherent!

Kendall
San Clemente, CA
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Sep  8 16:41:07 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 18:41:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Temp gauge failure
In-Reply-To: <813159.55261.qm@web30901.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080908184107.19AO5.738642.root@mp15>

I would check (replace) the temperature sensor before I messed with the guage.

al

---- Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com> wrote: 
> The temperature gauge on my TR6 is the one instrument that has worked without
> much deviation or any failure for years - until now.  The normal operating
> temperature usually reads slightly below the 1/2 mark, but for the past week
> it wouldn't go up over the 1/4 mark.  Now nothing - it won't budge off the
> bottom.  I've fiddled around behind the dash to make sure that everything is
> connected, and traced the wire up to the sensor near the thermostat.  I think
> that it all seems where it's supposed to be.  Any ideas?  Do these things just
> die?  I did replace the voltage stabilizer last year when it was on the fritz,
> but don't know if there's any connection.
> 
> Thanks in advance.
> 
> Joe Merone
> South Burlington, VT
> CF18928
> 
> Just back from The Glen
> 4 nights with the wife
> in a tent!
> 850 miles r/t 

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Mon Sep  8 18:00:49 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 17:00:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] OD doesn't disengage
Message-ID: <789939.36742.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

What would cause the OD on my 69 TR 6 not to disengage.  When I initially got
the car to going after it had been stored for 14 years the OD engaged
sporadically.  I replaced the solenoid and the OD now engages just fine but
only rarely disengages as it should.  I checked the fluid level on the tranny
and it is up to the fill plug.  I even added a small spring to return the
lever the solenoid activates back to its non engaged position but that didn't 
seem to help.  I haven't drained the transmission yet but it looks like that
is the next step along with removing and cleaning the filter.  Still, it would
seem that if there is enough pressure to engage the OD the fluid shouldn't be
the cause of the problem. 
 
MIke Lunsford, 1969 and 1970 TR 6
 
PS:  Is there any concensus on the type of oil to use in the trans?  I've
heard everything to 85-90 gear oil to motor oil to ATF.  I usually try to stay
with whatever is already in the trans if I can determine what that is.
 
   

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep  8 18:15:02 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 00:15:02 +0000
Subject: [6pack] OD doesn't disengage
In-Reply-To: <789939.36742.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <789939.36742.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452BC8E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Mike, one common cause especially with newly rebuilt units is the cone clutch
sticking. There was a case recently in another forum that I frequent where a
sharp whack on the brake band with a hammer freed it so that would be a simple
test for you to try if the OD sticks on and remains on when you stop.

Other causes could be faulty electrics but that should not persist after the
system is shut down and I think the A type has more convoluted set up
requirements that seem quite picky before the OD will engage and disengage
cleanly.

Lots of opinions about oil, I had my box and OD rebuilt by John Esposito a few
years ago and stick with his recommendation of non detergent 30W which I get
from the local NAPA.

http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=11

 Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael
lunsford
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 8:01 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] OD doesn't disengage

What would cause the OD on my 69 TR 6 not to disengage.  When I initially got
the car to going after it had been stored for 14 years the OD engaged
sporadically.  I replaced the solenoid and the OD now engages just fine but
only rarely disengages as it should.  I checked the fluid level on the tranny
and it is up to the fill plug.  I even added a small spring to return the
lever the solenoid activates back to its non engaged position but that didn't
seem to help.  I haven't drained the transmission yet but it looks like that
is the next step along with removing and cleaning the filter.  Still, it
would
seem that if there is enough pressure to engage the OD the fluid shouldn't be
the cause of the problem.

MIke Lunsford, 1969 and 1970 TR 6

PS:  Is there any concensus on the type of oil to use in the trans?  I've
heard everything to 85-90 gear oil to motor oil to ATF.  I usually try to
stay
with whatever is already in the trans if I can determine what that is.

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Mon Sep  8 18:36:20 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 08 Sep 2008 20:36:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Unique TR-6 Paint Job
Message-ID: <8CAE02B36E73DF9-5A4-30A4@FWM-M18.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi,

Check out this TR-6 on ebay.

110285161127

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Mon Sep  8 19:21:29 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 21:21:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Unique TR-6 Paint Job
References: <8CAE02B36E73DF9-5A4-30A4@FWM-M18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DCC7@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

Reminds me of a sheet set I had as a kid in the seventies, just after Logan's
Run had appeared.

Mark

________________________________

From: 6pack-bounces+mhooper=pix-cinema.com at autox.team.net on behalf of
acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Mon 08/09/2008 8:36 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Unique TR-6 Paint Job



 Hi,

Check out this TR-6 on ebay.

110285161127

Aaron

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep  8 19:22:07 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 01:22:07 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Unique TR-6 Paint Job
In-Reply-To: <8CAE02B36E73DF9-5A4-30A4@FWM-M18.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CAE02B36E73DF9-5A4-30A4@FWM-M18.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452BC99@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Aaron, I knew exactly what this was before I even opened up eBay. This TR6 has
been around for several weeks and this is at least its second listing. The
earlier listing was hinting that this was some special commemorative factory
paint job or something along those lines. What a hoot. He seems to have
dropped that angle for now and currently describes it as originally Olde
English White (whatever that is, is that what White number 19 is ?) with blue
interior.

It looks solid enough so definitely a worthwhile case but it strikes me as a
tad overpriced with a buy it now price of nearly $7k. I would have thought
given the overall condition that about half of that would be a good upper
limit.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Monday, September 08, 2008 8:36 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Unique TR-6 Paint Job

 Hi,

Check out this TR-6 on ebay.

110285161127

Aaron





Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Mon Sep  8 23:26:09 2008
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Mon, 8 Sep 2008 22:26:09 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Any thoughts on a coating for a metal gas tank?
Message-ID: <000601c9123c$9e976730$b1191718@computer>

Does anyone know what is best to coat a metal gas tank with the new blends
of gasoline especially in California?  Thanks for any thoughts.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep  9 01:31:00 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 07:31:00 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Any thoughts on a coating for a metal gas tank?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV94FD86C7EE17AE590B7CAF4540@phx.gbl>

Jim---Having used mostly California gas for the last 35 years in the TR, I don't know that a coating would be necessary. I do occasionally shine a flashlight down into the neck of the tank. So far, it looks good to me. If this changes for me, I'll sure shout!

Dick
Los Aangeles


-----Original Message-----
From: jim hearn
Sent: Monday, September 8, 2008 10:26 PM
To: '6-Pack ListServe'
Subject: [6pack] Any thoughts on a coating for a metal gas tank?

Does anyone know what is best to coat a metal gas tank with the new blends
of gasoline especially in California?  Thanks for any thoughts.

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From glccrc at ptd.net  Tue Sep  9 02:16:28 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 04:16:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Murphys Law of Backorders
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV94FD86C7EE17AE590B7CAF4540@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080909081626.643A918767E@autox.team.net>

So a year passed since the wife commented "make sure its presentable" when
learning Triumph was Marque of the Year at the Glen.

Th night spent from 6-9PM bolting seats and seatbelts in after a fresh paint
job, and joked with others at the Glen how the interior was "Backorder New
Tan", since we didn't bother re-installing the black panels.

Yesterday, the backordered new tan interior arrived, just after the event I
wanted it for.

I believe 115 TR's made the Tour de Marque an impressive, albeit slow, tour.

glc 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Sep  9 10:03:46 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 12:03:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809091157180.16822@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 8 Sep 2008, Scott Tilton wrote:

> Someone who knows more about the oiling paths than me might be able to
> comment on whether or not it is possible that there are blockages in the
> system that still allow for normal oil pressure readings even though little
> / no oil is getting out to where it needs to go.

The #1 main and consequently the #1 rod bearings are the furthest point 
from the oil pump... rod #2 gets oil from the main #2, so there should be 
no damage there _if the problem was the oil feed.

The rust on the top of the motor is something else, but it indicates to me 
that there was water INSIDE the sump or a lot of condensation in the valve 
cover area... was the motor stored in the upright position???

I agree with Vance - it'll cost more to fix the crank than to get another 
servicable used or new (my pref. is NOS) crank. They are def. available 
from various sources.

I'll also point out that if you run the motor starved for oil, the #1 
bearing will spin first. The damage to the cam probably came later, but 
verify that your oil filter is in play for this motor...

I'm thinking that there was some crud in the oil line that blocked oil 
flow from the #1 main to the #1 rod.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue Sep  9 10:40:54 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 09:40:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] OD won't disengage
Message-ID: <850555.17843.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I think Robert (not Bob) Gannon has the most likely solution to my problem.  I
failed to note in my previous posting that the OD disengages after the car
sits for a while which is symptomatic of a plugged relief valve.  Thanks to
Robert, Greg Dito and Stan Foster for their suggestions.  This list is
amazing.  I would most likely have messed around with this OD thing for weeks
trying to puzzle out this problem.
 
"Sounds to me like your relief valve needs to be removed, cleaned and
reinstalled. Follow the directions in the attached file.
#4 on page 10"

From JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com  Tue Sep  9 11:29:14 2008
From: JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com (Dombey, John R.)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 10:29:14 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <mailman.754.1220918451.3711.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.754.1220918451.3711.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B27788FF2B36BA4CAE1F896B2FEA4F9FE9B3E4@0461-its-exmb03.us.saic.com>

Kendall,

My recollection from my rebuild is that a fully built-up bottom end is
not easy to spin - due primarily to the friction between the piston
rings and the freshly honed cylinders (the bearings should not be a big
contributor).  The crank should spin pretty easily by hand before the
pistons are installed.

John Dombey
'69 TR6

--original message ----

<snip>
> 11.) It was hard to turn the crank by hand even before the valves were

> hooked up. I figured this was due to the new rings and bearings. My
memory
> is a bit fuzzy on this though. Should a freshly assembled bottom end
turn > easily just by grabbing the crank snout?

Kendall

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Tue Sep  9 11:27:44 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 13:27:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809091157180.16822@isis.mit.edu>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809091157180.16822@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF87A9F134@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

Oil pressure is set by a relief valve that is composed of a spring and ball
bearing that are inside of a drilling.  This is a separate device, much like
that in an OD unit, and is adjustable in some engines.  For these, there is a
bolt that presses on one end of the spring, with the ball bearing at the other
end of the spring.  As oil pressure rises in the main oil gallery the pressure
forces the ball away from the opening, which in turn allows the oil to escape
back into the sump.

Pressure is determined by the "k" value of the spring (k = spring constant.)
If the spring weakens over time (not uncommon in old engines), its k value
drops, and oil pressure also drops.  I've seen in the past TRF advertize these
springs as well as the complete unit.

It is possible for some, and perhaps all, of the oil ports to be clogged, but
you will still see normal oil pressure.  But this is pretty unlikely.

________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net
[6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Robert Lang [lang at isis.mit.edu]
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 12:03 PM
To: Scott Tilton
Cc: 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

On Mon, 8 Sep 2008, Scott Tilton wrote:

> Someone who knows more about the oiling paths than me might be able to
> comment on whether or not it is possible that there are blockages in the
> system that still allow for normal oil pressure readings even though little
> / no oil is getting out to where it needs to go.

The #1 main and consequently the #1 rod bearings are the furthest point
from the oil pump... rod #2 gets oil from the main #2, so there should be
no damage there _if the problem was the oil feed.

The rust on the top of the motor is something else, but it indicates to me
that there was water INSIDE the sump or a lot of condensation in the valve
cover area... was the motor stored in the upright position???

I agree with Vance - it'll cost more to fix the crank than to get another
servicable used or new (my pref. is NOS) crank. They are def. available
from various sources.

I'll also point out that if you run the motor starved for oil, the #1
bearing will spin first. The damage to the cam probably came later, but
verify that your oil filter is in play for this motor...

I'm thinking that there was some crud in the oil line that blocked oil
flow from the #1 main to the #1 rod.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Sep  9 11:48:30 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 13:48:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF87A9F134@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
References: <62586.46762.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a436b5f40809081019w504c9222gc2b5202b5be10cf0@mail.gmail.com>,
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809091157180.16822@isis.mit.edu>
	<9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF87A9F134@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809091343090.16822@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 9 Sep 2008, Ruffner, James A *HS wrote:

> Oil pressure is set by a relief valve that is composed of a spring and 
> ball bearing that are inside of a drilling.  This is a separate device, 
> much like that in an OD unit, and is adjustable in some engines.  For 
> these, there is a bolt that presses on one end of the spring, with the 
> ball bearing at the other end of the spring.  As oil pressure rises in 
> the main oil gallery the pressure forces the ball away from the opening, 
> which in turn allows the oil to escape back into the sump.

I actually have quite a bit of experience with the pressure relief 
valve... it turns out that if the valve sticks closed, you get insane oil 
pressure. Like enough to break the oil pressure gauge. If it sticks open, 
you get NO (or very little) oil pressure and the rods complain very soon 
afterward.

I had it stick open once and I wrecked a bearing. I pulled the cap and 
(fortunately) the bearing material had not worn away and the bearing 
didn't stick or spin. I cleaned up the journal and stuck it back together 
(with a new bearing, of course) and ran it that way for 40 or 50 
autocrosses, maybe 5 years and no "issues"

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue Sep  9 13:40:01 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 09 Sep 2008 15:40:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates
Message-ID: <20F1D68C.5C07FEBD.00159EE9@cs.com>

Vince and all.

I have not one report of any fatique failures on any of the alloy engine plates, I manufacture, including the one I have run for about five years on the front of my TR............. which is also the mounting points for the engine.

Not that it cant happen...but if it does I will replace at no charge.

Joe Alexander
>From The Targa Newfoundland...well in a couple of days.  :-)
>        John:
>
>        Don't forget about fatigue resistance. Aluminum has poor fatigue life
>compared to steel. While the front engine plate is lightly stressed and would
>be a good candidate for replacement, the rear plate is what melds the engine
>into a single unit. The front of the engine and the rear of the tranny are
>supported, but there is not support near the rear engine plate.
>        I would worry about flex between the two components, and resulting
>cracks in the plate. I think to really answer that questions would require
>some stress analysis. Intuitively, it seems questionable as to the longevity
>of an identical rear plate fabricated from alloy. Just my $0.02.
>
>        Vance
>
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
>[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>John Cyganowski
>Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 5:47 PM
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates
>
>Hi All-
>
>Looking for some thoughts on the aircraft grade aluminum engine plates?  The
>front one and the Transmission support plate.  Are these strong enough?
>
>John Cyg
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Sep  9 13:52:12 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 12:52:12 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates
In-Reply-To: <20F1D68C.5C07FEBD.00159EE9@cs.com>
References: <20F1D68C.5C07FEBD.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F74FD58@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Joe:

        Sounds like you have lots of data saying that it is not an issue.
Personally, I always prefer data to a SWAG, which is what my comment was. I
was just wondering if it could be an issue. Aluminum rocker arms are a place
where I know this can really occur, although with computer aided stress
analysis, I think the newer designs are pretty sound. The old hot rod rule of
thumb was that aluminum rockers were only good for 50,000 miles.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: N197TR4 at cs.com [mailto:N197TR4 at cs.com]
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 12:40 PM
To: Navarrette, Vance; John Cyganowski; "6pack at autox.team.net"
Subject: Re: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates

Vince and all.

I have not one report of any fatique failures on any of the alloy engine
plates, I manufacture, including the one I have run for about five years on
the front of my TR............. which is also the mounting points for the
engine.

Not that it cant happen...but if it does I will replace at no charge.

Joe Alexander
>From The Targa Newfoundland...well in a couple of days.  :-)
>        John:
>
>        Don't forget about fatigue resistance. Aluminum has poor fatigue
life
>compared to steel. While the front engine plate is lightly stressed and
would
>be a good candidate for replacement, the rear plate is what melds the engine
>into a single unit. The front of the engine and the rear of the tranny are
>supported, but there is not support near the rear engine plate.
>        I would worry about flex between the two components, and resulting
>cracks in the plate. I think to really answer that questions would require
>some stress analysis. Intuitively, it seems questionable as to the longevity
>of an identical rear plate fabricated from alloy. Just my $0.02.
>
>        Vance
>
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
>[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of
>John Cyganowski
>Sent: Sunday, September 07, 2008 5:47 PM
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] Aluminum Engine Plates
>
>Hi All-
>
>Looking for some thoughts on the aircraft grade aluminum engine plates?  The
>front one and the Transmission support plate.  Are these strong enough?
>
>John Cyg
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Tue Sep  9 17:29:31 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 19:29:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Any thoughts on a coating for a metal gas tank?
References: <BAY101-DAV94FD86C7EE17AE590B7CAF4540@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005001c912d3$e91f45b0$6401a8c0@rick>

POR 15 makes a top of the line fuel tank coating kit.

Rick
Brunswick, Maine
pattonmachine.com

From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Sep  9 19:47:16 2008
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 20:47:16 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
Message-ID: <1319.98.200.63.37.1221011236.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

I asked this of the Triumphs list and response was, well, underwhelming (one
response to me only, none to the list). But this is really bugging me, and I'm
trying to keep my driver on the road. If I end up pulling the whole rear end
I'm going to be off the road for a while. Here goes:

Last year I picked up my second TR6 ('74) and have been using it as my driver.
Good, not great condition, but runs great and looks really great from 20 feet.

I've got a pretty substantial clunk when I apply power in reverse. So Sunday I
climbed underneath and checked out the differential mountings. Looks like the
P.O. has already been there, new rubber mounts and no obvious cracks. The case
looks like it was cleaned and maybe painted within the last thousand miles. So
I started moving things around by hand (rear wheels in the air i.e. jackstands
rear and wheels chocks front, parking brake off). Here's what I found, and my
questions:

1. So how much backlash should there be in the diff? I.e. rotate one wheel,
other one fixed, then reverse direction - I've got maybe 5 degrees of play
here.

2. What about the u-joints? One axle has a wee bit of play in the u-joints -
should they be almost completely without lash?

3. It feels like there may be some play in the axle splines on one side - how
much is allowable here?

4. If there is a problem with the diff mounts, would I be able to detect it
without pulling the diff first?

I've got 6 or 8 spare new u-joints, so pulling the axles out and refreshing
those would be "easy" (sort-of) for starters.

Note that I've got wire wheels, but I started there and see that they seem
tight and without play.

Thanks,
 Lee

'74 Maple TR6 (never-ending restoration)
'74 Pimento TR6 - daily driver
The Woodlands, TX

From j.honor at comcast.net  Tue Sep  9 21:17:24 2008
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 03:17:24 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tire pressure
Message-ID: <091020080317.24214.48C73C440000A78900005E9622007358349D01020108D206@comcast.net>

planning extended highway roadtrip down trout 66, have tr6 with yokohama advan 205x70x15, currently all at 29 OK- wondering benefit of lower pressure in rear? thoughts? Thanks!

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Tue Sep  9 22:26:41 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 21:26:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR250 boot rubber seal
Message-ID: <20080910042628.AC49D1878BB@autox.team.net>

Hi everyone:

I've been making little bits of progress each night putting my TR250 back
together.  I'm ready to install the rubber seal of the boot but I have a
question.  Should the ends come together by the latch or at the top.  I'm
guessing at the latch, but I don't remember how it was before it was
removed.  Thanks in advance for the help.

Andy

CD6746L HVDA

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Sep 10 00:38:49 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 06:38:49 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR250 boot rubber seal
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV4159A8DF3FA1AEDE022CEF4570@phx.gbl>

Andy---I have my seam at the midpoint on one side. I figured there's less chance for the trunk to have exhaust fumes getting sucked in, or water seeping in, if the seams were at the bottom or top. As it turned out, there was no shrinkage in the seal over many years, so I guess it really didn't matter.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Packard
Sent: Tuesday, September 9, 2008 9:26 PM
To: '6pack List', TTSCC at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [6pack] TR250 boot rubber seal

Hi everyone:

I've been making little bits of progress each night putting my TR250 back
together.  I'm ready to install the rubber seal of the boot but I have a
question.  Should the ends come together by the latch or at the top.  I'm
guessing at the latch, but I don't remember how it was before it was
removed.  Thanks in advance for the help.

Andy

CD6746L HVDA
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From dramsey11 at alltel.net  Wed Sep 10 04:39:26 2008
From: dramsey11 at alltel.net (Darrell Ramsey)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 06:39:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
In-Reply-To: <1319.98.200.63.37.1221011236.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <20080910103927.DCNF3199.ispmxaamta05-gx.windstream.net@VALUEDFD36E9B8>

Lee, Another possibility that happened to me...A failed or failing shock
(lever type).  I had a sharp clunk when changing direction between first and
reverse.  Turned out to be a shock.

Darrell Ramsey

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+dramsey11=alltel.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+dramsey11=alltel.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee
Daniels
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 9:47 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk

I asked this of the Triumphs list and response was, well, underwhelming (one
response to me only, none to the list). But this is really bugging me, and
I'm
trying to keep my driver on the road. If I end up pulling the whole rear end
I'm going to be off the road for a while. Here goes:

Last year I picked up my second TR6 ('74) and have been using it as my
driver.
Good, not great condition, but runs great and looks really great from 20
feet.

I've got a pretty substantial clunk when I apply power in reverse. So Sunday
I
climbed underneath and checked out the differential mountings. Looks like
the
P.O. has already been there, new rubber mounts and no obvious cracks. The
case
looks like it was cleaned and maybe painted within the last thousand miles.
So
I started moving things around by hand (rear wheels in the air i.e.
jackstands
rear and wheels chocks front, parking brake off). Here's what I found, and
my
questions:

1. So how much backlash should there be in the diff? I.e. rotate one wheel,
other one fixed, then reverse direction - I've got maybe 5 degrees of play
here.

2. What about the u-joints? One axle has a wee bit of play in the u-joints -
should they be almost completely without lash?

3. It feels like there may be some play in the axle splines on one side -
how
much is allowable here?

4. If there is a problem with the diff mounts, would I be able to detect it
without pulling the diff first?

I've got 6 or 8 spare new u-joints, so pulling the axles out and refreshing
those would be "easy" (sort-of) for starters.

Note that I've got wire wheels, but I started there and see that they seem
tight and without play.

Thanks,
 Lee

'74 Maple TR6 (never-ending restoration)
'74 Pimento TR6 - daily driver
The Woodlands, TX
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as dramsey11 at alltel.net

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Wed Sep 10 04:52:06 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:52:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
In-Reply-To: <1319.98.200.63.37.1221011236.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <1319.98.200.63.37.1221011236.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W40F8A7F9086FD894C4955E8E570@phx.gbl>

Of course there can be all sorts of rear-problems as you describe. I had
really bad clunking starting off frontwards or backwards that was only
U-joints.

Sloane :)
69-Six> Date: Tue, 9 Sep 2008 20:47:16 -0500> From: lee at automate-it.com> To:
6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk> > I asked this
of the Triumphs list and response was, well, underwhelming (one> response to
me only, none to the list). But this is really bugging me, and I'm> trying to
keep my driver on the road. If I end up pulling the whole rear end> I'm going
to be off the road for a while. Here goes:>
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Wed Sep 10 07:18:27 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 09:18:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40809100618o49db678aie12b8c8ab29dd1fe@mail.gmail.com>

Question for the group.  My father made the classic mistake of
draining his 6's transmission fluid in the gearbox before removing the
fill plug, and of course he is now having problems removing the fill
plug.  Here are the highlights of his efforts:

1) He tried to remove the fill plug with a regular wrench with no
success (it wouldn't budge)

2)  He bought the special wrench from The Roadster Factory for the
plug, but when he pulled hard on it using a piece of pipe on it as a
"cheater bar", it just rounded off the square edges of the plug and
distorted the corners in the square opening on the wrench.

3)   A Gator Grip socket didn't hold at all.

4)  He tried the one of the sockets you use for extracting stripped
nuts (the type that digs into the nut), but it just rounded the edges
of the plug a bit more and then slipped.

5)  He then cut a deep groove in the head of the plug with a Dermal
Tool, and tried to "unscrew" the plug with a screwdriver socket on a
ratchet.  The socket fits into the groove fairly well, but slips out
when I try to turn the ratchet with some force.

So, he is looking for fresh ideas.  His last resort is drilling it
out, but he is afraid of metal shavings getting into the gearbox.  Any
suggestions or tips?

John V
1974 1/2 TR6

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Sep 10 07:36:23 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 9:36:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug
Message-ID: <3070132.3612291221053784206.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>

John;

Has he tried using a shot or two of PB Blaster on it and letting it sit overnight?

Dave

---- John VanNorman <jsvannorman at gmail.com> wrote: 
> Question for the group.  My father made the classic mistake of
> draining his 6's transmission fluid in the gearbox before removing the
> fill plug, and of course he is now having problems removing the fill
> plug.  Here are the highlights of his efforts:
> 
> 1) He tried to remove the fill plug with a regular wrench with no
> success (it wouldn't budge)
> 
> 2)  He bought the special wrench from The Roadster Factory for the
> plug, but when he pulled hard on it using a piece of pipe on it as a
> "cheater bar", it just rounded off the square edges of the plug and
> distorted the corners in the square opening on the wrench.
> 
> 3)   A Gator Grip socket didn't hold at all.
> 
> 4)  He tried the one of the sockets you use for extracting stripped
> nuts (the type that digs into the nut), but it just rounded the edges
> of the plug a bit more and then slipped.
> 
> 5)  He then cut a deep groove in the head of the plug with a Dermal
> Tool, and tried to "unscrew" the plug with a screwdriver socket on a
> ratchet.  The socket fits into the groove fairly well, but slips out
> when I try to turn the ratchet with some force.
> 
> So, he is looking for fresh ideas.  His last resort is drilling it
> out, but he is afraid of metal shavings getting into the gearbox.  Any
> suggestions or tips?
> 
> John V
> 1974 1/2 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Sep 10 07:37:19 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 13:37:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40809100618o49db678aie12b8c8ab29dd1fe@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40809100618o49db678aie12b8c8ab29dd1fe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452C0A7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

John, a common measure of last resort is to weld a large hex nut on the end of
the plug so you can get a proper wrench on it. Do this before you weaken that
plug any further.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
VanNorman
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 9:18 AM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug

Question for the group.  My father made the classic mistake of
draining his 6's transmission fluid in the gearbox before removing the
fill plug, and of course he is now having problems removing the fill
plug.  Here are the highlights of his efforts:

1) He tried to remove the fill plug with a regular wrench with no
success (it wouldn't budge)

2)  He bought the special wrench from The Roadster Factory for the
plug, but when he pulled hard on it using a piece of pipe on it as a
"cheater bar", it just rounded off the square edges of the plug and
distorted the corners in the square opening on the wrench.

3)   A Gator Grip socket didn't hold at all.

4)  He tried the one of the sockets you use for extracting stripped
nuts (the type that digs into the nut), but it just rounded the edges
of the plug a bit more and then slipped.

5)  He then cut a deep groove in the head of the plug with a Dermal
Tool, and tried to "unscrew" the plug with a screwdriver socket on a
ratchet.  The socket fits into the groove fairly well, but slips out
when I try to turn the ratchet with some force.

So, he is looking for fresh ideas.  His last resort is drilling it
out, but he is afraid of metal shavings getting into the gearbox.  Any
suggestions or tips?

John V
1974 1/2 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Sep 10 08:17:45 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 07:17:45 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40809100618o49db678aie12b8c8ab29dd1fe@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40809100618o49db678aie12b8c8ab29dd1fe@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F75009A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        John:

        I would try heat next. Use a MAPP gas (MAPP burns hotter than propane)
torch to get it as hot as possible, then quench it with oil. Do this a couple
of times. I would say use acetylene, but you could damage the aluminum
casting.
        Anyway, the heat and oil will loosen the plug up, and hopefully you
can back that baby out. I had a similar problem, and when I finally wrestled
the tortured, mangled remains of the plug out of the hole, I replaced it with
a hex socket NPT pipe plug. No more problems.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
John VanNorman
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 6:18 AM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug

Question for the group.  My father made the classic mistake of
draining his 6's transmission fluid in the gearbox before removing the
fill plug, and of course he is now having problems removing the fill
plug.

<snip>

So, he is looking for fresh ideas.  His last resort is drilling it
out, but he is afraid of metal shavings getting into the gearbox.  Any
suggestions or tips?

John V
1974 1/2 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Sep 10 08:21:16 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 07:21:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452C0A7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <d8ff30d40809100618o49db678aie12b8c8ab29dd1fe@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452C0A7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F75009D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Stan:

        Is this approach safe? The casing is aluminum, and I would be afraid
of damage by that much heat. I suppose a mig might be OK (as opposed to
acetylene) as it minimizes the amount of heat applied, but I would still
worry. Have you tried this before on an aluminum casing? I have not, so if you
have and it worked, then I humbly withdraw my concern...

        Vance

      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Foster, Stan
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 6:37 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug

John, a common measure of last resort is to weld a large hex nut on the end
of
the plug so you can get a proper wrench on it. Do this before you weaken that
plug any further.

Stan

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Sep 10 08:27:13 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:27:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F75009D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <d8ff30d40809100618o49db678aie12b8c8ab29dd1fe@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452C0A7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F75009D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452C0E9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I haven't had to resort to this personally but I know people that have. I
think that if you are just stabbing it with a mig welder a few times to sick
the nut to the plug it would be no worse than heating up the plug with mapp
gas.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com]
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 10:21 AM
To: Foster, Stan; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Removing gearbox fill plug

        Stan:

        Is this approach safe? The casing is aluminum, and I would be afraid
of damage by that much heat. I suppose a mig might be OK (as opposed to
acetylene) as it minimizes the amount of heat applied, but I would still
worry. Have you tried this before on an aluminum casing? I have not, so if you
have and it worked, then I humbly withdraw my concern...

        Vance

      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Sep 10 08:30:28 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 07:30:28 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR250 boot rubber seal
In-Reply-To: <20080910042628.AC49D1878BB@autox.team.net>
References: <20080910042628.AC49D1878BB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F7500A8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Andy:

        Here is what I did. I installed it so that the ends came together at
the "top" (front of the boot). My reasoning was that I did not want exhaust
fumes seeping into the trunk through the gap. OK, that is being pretty
paranoid, but that was my reason. I never promised it was a *GOOD* reason.
        Anyway, my thinking was that when cruising, the TR6 Kamm back would
draw exhaust fumes into the boot. I know that the rear lip of the boot lid can
corrode badly for the same reason - at least that is what Roger Williams
claimed. Hence my paranoia. The TR250 has the TR4 rear end, so dunno if it
applies or not. Anyway, that is what I did on the 6.
        I suppose that water draining off the body and around the boot might
be forced by gravity to seep through the seam if it were at the top. So both
the top and the bottom might be BAD. Oh, HECK! How about putting it ON THE
SIDE? =:-o

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Andrew Packard
Sent: Tuesday, September 09, 2008 9:27 PM
To: '6pack List'; TTSCC at yahoogroups.com
Subject: [6pack] TR250 boot rubber seal

Hi everyone:

I've been making little bits of progress each night putting my TR250 back
together.  I'm ready to install the rubber seal of the boot but I have a
question.  Should the ends come together by the latch or at the top.  I'm
guessing at the latch, but I don't remember how it was before it was
removed.  Thanks in advance for the help.

Andy

CD6746L HVDA

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Sep 10 08:47:08 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 10:47:08 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] tire pressure
In-Reply-To: <091020080317.24214.48C73C440000A78900005E9622007358349D01020108D206@comcast.net>
References: <091020080317.24214.48C73C440000A78900005E9622007358349D01020108D206@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809101043290.19572@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 10 Sep 2008 j.honor at comcast.net wrote:

> planning extended highway roadtrip down trout 66, have tr6 with yokohama 
> advan 205x70x15, currently all at 29 OK- wondering benefit of lower 
> pressure in rear? thoughts? Thanks!

If 29 all-around works for you and you don't get wierd tire wear (like the 
middle wears faster than the edges), then go for it. I've been running 30 
front/rear for years and really like the handling. It's more neutral and 
you can get the car to "rotate" if you want.

If you have no clue on how to drive (please be honest with yourself), then 
you should stick closer to the factory tire pressures as that setup 
encourages a LOT of understeer which is a lot easier for the casual driver 
to comprehend and deal with. I like to say: "it's better to hit things 
with the front of the car... if you have no choice".

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Sep 10 08:55:39 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:55:39 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR250 boot rubber seal
Message-ID: <091020081455.11270.48C7DFEB000392AD00002C062207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com> 

> Andy: 
> 
> Here is what I did. I installed it so that the ends came together at 
> the "top" (front of the boot). My reasoning was that I did not want exhaust 
> fumes seeping into the trunk through the gap. 

On my TR6, that is the way the seal was installed by the factory.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (our 34th anniversary is September 20th)
Highland Park, IL

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Wed Sep 10 09:12:13 2008
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 08:12:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
In-Reply-To: <1319.98.200.63.37.1221011236.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <641884.39548.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Lee,

I'm not an expert, but from my experience:

1.  Backlash doesn't sound like an issue.
2.  If you have any play in your u-joints, you need to replace them.
3.  Play in the axle splines is not good, but you could be mistakeing u-joint play for it - test it again after replacing u-joints.
4.  From your description, it doesn't sound like diff mounts should be an issue.

If I were to diagnose from your description, it sounds like your u-joints are badly worn, and the clunk you hear is caused by the amount of play in the u-joint.

Raymond L. Hatfield


--- On Tue, 9/9/08, Lee Daniels <lee at automate-it.com> wrote:

> From: Lee Daniels <lee at automate-it.com>
> Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Tuesday, September 9, 2008, 8:47 PM
> I asked this of the Triumphs list and response was, well,
> underwhelming (one
> response to me only, none to the list). But this is really
> bugging me, and I'm
> trying to keep my driver on the road. If I end up pulling
> the whole rear end
> I'm going to be off the road for a while. Here goes:
> 
> Last year I picked up my second TR6 ('74) and have been
> using it as my driver.
> Good, not great condition, but runs great and looks really
> great from 20 feet.
> 
> I've got a pretty substantial clunk when I apply power
> in reverse. So Sunday I
> climbed underneath and checked out the differential
> mountings. Looks like the
> P.O. has already been there, new rubber mounts and no
> obvious cracks. The case
> looks like it was cleaned and maybe painted within the last
> thousand miles. So
> I started moving things around by hand (rear wheels in the
> air i.e. jackstands
> rear and wheels chocks front, parking brake off).
> Here's what I found, and my
> questions:
> 
> 1. So how much backlash should there be in the diff? I.e.
> rotate one wheel,
> other one fixed, then reverse direction - I've got
> maybe 5 degrees of play
> here.
> 
> 2. What about the u-joints? One axle has a wee bit of play
> in the u-joints -
> should they be almost completely without lash?
> 
> 3. It feels like there may be some play in the axle splines
> on one side - how
> much is allowable here?
> 
> 4. If there is a problem with the diff mounts, would I be
> able to detect it
> without pulling the diff first?
> 
> I've got 6 or 8 spare new u-joints, so pulling the
> axles out and refreshing
> those would be "easy" (sort-of) for starters.
> 
> Note that I've got wire wheels, but I started there and
> see that they seem
> tight and without play.
> 
> Thanks,
>  Lee
> 
> '74 Maple TR6 (never-ending restoration)
> '74 Pimento TR6 - daily driver
> The Woodlands, TX
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as iron_horse819 at yahoo.com

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Wed Sep 10 10:55:48 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 12:55:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
In-Reply-To: <1319.98.200.63.37.1221011236.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <1319.98.200.63.37.1221011236.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <48C7FC14.6090700@optonline.net>

Lee,
Probably the most common problem with this drive train is a mild clunk. There are so many places for "play" to develop that makes it so hard to find the source. 


1. So how much backlash should there be in the diff? I.e. rotate one wheel,
other one fixed, then reverse direction - I've got maybe 5 degrees of play
here.

This sounds about normal. Common causes for diff play are worn or missing sun gear fiber washers, crown & pinion wear. In either case a rebuild is in order. Even new, these are not quiet or tight units.

2. What about the u-joints? One axle has a wee bit of play in the u-joints -
should they be almost completely without lash?

U-joints should have no rotational play. 

3. It feels like there may be some play in the axle splines on one side - how
much is allowable here?

The axle splines do wear & sometimes greasing them will quiet them down.

4. If there is a problem with the diff mounts, would I be able to detect it
without pulling the diff first?

This is where I think you should examine thoroughly. It's difficult to see a crack in the diiferential mounts or upper spring  pan. You should be able to pull a tire to get a good look through there. You should also take a look at the trany mounts. In reverse the engine/trany torque up in the opposite direction. 

If you determain the diif is the culprit I would strongly consider the Infinity swap. It's about the same to purchase a rebuilt TR unit but I think the Infiniti is a better bang for the buck.

I've got 6 or 8 spare new u-joints, so pulling the axles out and refreshing
those would be "easy" (sort-of) for starters.

Note that I've got wire wheels, but I started there and see that they seem
tight and without play.

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Wed Sep 10 12:09:25 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 14:09:25 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 oil gallery leak
Message-ID: <c85.3627f8bb.35f96755@aol.com>

I'm slowly working on my six as I find time. Before I put the body back on  
the frame, I am trying to fix some oil leaks. Last year before I took the car  
apart, I started it in the spring. I had a good flow of oil  leaking out of 
the side of the block. First I thought it was the oil  filter o-ring since the 
oil was running down the oil canister. At closer  examination, I saw  it was 
the plug right above the oil filter that was  leaking. To pin point it, it is to 
the lower right of the fuel pump and to the  left of the oil pressure gauge 
connection. The more I drove the car, the  less it leaked. It sealed some what 
but was still leaking. No, I wasn't running  low on oil!
 
The plug is 7/8" wide and domed with no way of turning it. I do not know if  
it is pressed in or threaded. I don't want to take it out until I have another 
 one to put in. I am looking at the TRF spare parts blue catalog and am 
thinking  that it is part AH11 or PU1404. Am I looking at the right part? If not, 
is this  plug available anywhere?



**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.      
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Sep 10 14:07:01 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 13:07:01 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 oil gallery leak
In-Reply-To: <c85.3627f8bb.35f96755@aol.com>
References: <c85.3627f8bb.35f96755@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F750411@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Peter:

        If this is the part I am thinking of, it is a simple piece of aluminum
rod that is pressed into the block to plug a hole left over from machining one
of the main oil galleries (at least, I think that is why it is there). You
must drill it out, or heliarc something to it to pull it out. I suppose you
could drill a hole in it, and then twist in some sort of large sheet metal
screw, and then pry it out.
        I would be inclined to tap it for 1/2" or 5/8" NPT thread and run a
pipe plug in there. They don't leak, and removing them is cake if/when you
want to clean the oil galleries.
        Unfortunately they are very difficult to work on with the engine in
the car, so you will want to stick with something proven and probably do it
when the engine is out. Using a pipe plug would be safest, IMHO. At least you
could replace it easily when the motor is in the car.

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 11:09 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 oil gallery leak

<snip>
At closer  examination, I saw  it was the plug right above the oil filter
that was  leaking. To pin point it, it is to the lower right of the fuel
pump and to the  left of the oil pressure gauge connection.

<snip>

The plug is 7/8" wide and domed with no way of turning it. I do not know if
it is pressed in or threaded. I don't want to take it out until I have
another
 one to put in. I am looking at the TRF spare parts blue catalog and am
thinking  that it is part AH11 or PU1404. Am I looking at the right part? If
not,
is this  plug available anywhere?

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Wed Sep 10 16:51:29 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 18:51:29 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 oil gallery leak
Message-ID: <c08.46c39a57.35f9a971@aol.com>

Bob,
 
What kind of glue would I use? Epoxy? 
 
Thanks,
Peter

 
 
 lang at isis.mit.edu writes:

Hi,

TRF sells all the plugs for the TR6 block. The front and  side ones come in 
"sticks", you insert the stick (with GLUE) and cut it  off and with the 
front one you grind flush with the block and with the  side on you cut it 
standing proud of the block and then peen it over  (presumably so it seals 
better - I've never seen an explaination of  "why".) All the other ones are 
pipe thread (except the rear-most plug in  the main gallery which is a 
machine thread and the plug seals to the  block.

Perhaps your plug was not installed with some sort of  glue/sealant and/or 
peened over  properly?

regards,
rml


 



**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.      
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)

From 70TR6 at mindspring.com  Wed Sep 10 20:40:55 2008
From: 70TR6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:40:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts?
Message-ID: <B55462FA-8482-4F84-942F-A0ADD305BE4B@mindspring.com>

I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the  
TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying.  Suppose  
you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other  
new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a  
while.  Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel  
securely to the hub?

I'm not planning on having a blowout and 215/60/16 tires aren't hard  
to find, but I wonder...

Thoughts?

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Sep 10 20:44:39 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 02:44:39 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts?
Message-ID: <091120080244.979.48C8861700048745000003D32207021633970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Ashford Little <70TR6 at mindspring.com> 

> I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the 
> TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying. Suppose 
> you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other 
> new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a 
> while. Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel 
> securely to the hub? 

I always carry a set of stock lug nuts in case I need to use the steel wheel mounted spare in place of one of my alloys.
Have a great trip.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From 70TR6 at mindspring.com  Wed Sep 10 20:52:01 2008
From: 70TR6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 22:52:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts?
In-Reply-To: <be4.3dd213c6.35f9e104@aol.com>
References: <be4.3dd213c6.35f9e104@aol.com>
Message-ID: <91826FC8-A0A3-4B2C-BBFD-DE40D534FD5B@mindspring.com>

I doubt they will fit also, and I wonder how many folks driving around  
on their newer wheels have a set in the trunk?  I know I didn't and  
I've not heard anyone caution about it, so let me be the first, second  
or hundredth.

If you have a set of alloy wheels, but a steel one in the trunk, put 4  
of those nut thingies somewhere in the car.

This will guarantee that you never have to use them.

Cheers and Dragons Away!

Ashford Little
'70 TR6






On Sep 10, 2008, at 10:48 PM, McGaheyRx at aol.com wrote:

>
>
> In a message dated 9/10/2008 10:41:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 70TR6 at mindspring.com 
>  writes:
> I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the
> TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying.  Suppose
> you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other
> new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a
> while.  Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel
> securely to the hub?
>
> Not likely. Particularly if you're Panasports have shank type lug  
> nuts - some Panasports have tapered lug nuts which might work okay  
> if the taper matches the stock wheel nut taper.
> This is why I have one set of 4 stock lug nuts in the boot of each  
> car that has aftermarket wheels and a stock spare.
>
> But don't worry - if you have a blow out on The Dragons Tail you'll  
> probly die in the crash anyway.
> Just kidding - and wishing i was going.
>
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
>
>
>
>
>
> Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, plus  
> the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.

From jrhauser at sea-dog.net  Wed Sep 10 21:04:13 2008
From: jrhauser at sea-dog.net (jrhauser at sea-dog.net)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 23:04:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic
Message-ID: <200809110304.m8B34D6h010581@mail2.atl.registeredsite.com>

Anyone catch the Red TR6 that is playing on TV in the trailer for the new HBO Series about Vampires called TrueBlood?   

The car can be seen in the background alone toward the end of the advertisment. Red dusty looking with the front rubber bumper guards 

You can view the trailer on the HBO website also. Click on 'watch' once on the website.  At least the shot of the TR6 did not make it to the cutting room floor.   I'm hoping the car will be used regularily in the show, but I missed the opening episode.

http://www.hbo.com/trueblood/

NFI !

John 

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 10 21:23:06 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Wed, 10 Sep 2008 20:23:06 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic
In-Reply-To: <200809110304.m8B34D6h010581@mail2.atl.registeredsite.com>
Message-ID: <20080911032257.EAFCB187873@autox.team.net>

As usual, it was driven by the bad guys.  They tried to run over a vampire
and his woman rescuer.  It drove across the edge of the woods trying to hit
them.
Andy
  

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
jrhauser at sea-dog.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 8:04 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic

Anyone catch the Red TR6 that is playing on TV in the trailer for the new
HBO Series about Vampires called TrueBlood?   

The car can be seen in the background alone toward the end of the
advertisment. Red dusty looking with the front rubber bumper guards 

You can view the trailer on the HBO website also. Click on 'watch' once on
the website.  At least the shot of the TR6 did not make it to the cutting
room floor.   I'm hoping the car will be used regularily in the show, but I
missed the opening episode.

http://www.hbo.com/trueblood/

NFI !

John 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as apackard68 at comcast.net

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Sep 10 22:08:04 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 04:08:04 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts?
In-Reply-To: <091120080244.979.48C8861700048745000003D32207021633970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <091120080244.979.48C8861700048745000003D32207021633970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B452C2F4@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I also have Panasports with a standard steel wheel mounted with a skinny tyre
in the boot as a spare. I also have a set of standard wheel nuts in case I
ever have to use it.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
emanteno at comcast.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 10:45 PM
To: Ashford Little; 6-Pack Email List; Triumph Email List
Subject: Re: [6pack] Panasports, Redlines and Lug Nuts?

-------------- Original message --------------
From: Ashford Little <70TR6 at mindspring.com>

> I was putting air in the spare tonight in preparation to leave for the
> TRials tomorrow morning and I got to wondering & worrying. Suppose
> you had a massive blowout of a tire on one of your Panasports or other
> new allow wheels and had to put an old steel wheel in it's place for a
> while. Would the lug nuts for the Panasports secure the steel wheel
> securely to the hub?

I always carry a set of stock lug nuts in case I need to use the steel wheel
mounted spare in place of one of my alloys.
Have a great trip.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Sep 11 06:09:45 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 08:09:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic
In-Reply-To: <200809110304.m8B34D6h010581@mail2.atl.registeredsite.com>
References: <200809110304.m8B34D6h010581@mail2.atl.registeredsite.com>
Message-ID: <979A4FF9115F40B1B6F93CEE226F1294@bobspc>

John,
I almost missed it but was able to get a screen capture and posted it in the
6-Pack Forum
http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?p=52350#52350 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jrhauser at sea-dog.net
Sent: Wednesday, September 10, 2008 11:04 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic

Anyone catch the Red TR6 that is playing on TV in the trailer for the new
HBO Series about Vampires called TrueBlood?   

The car can be seen in the background alone toward the end of the
advertisment. Red dusty looking with the front rubber bumper guards 

You can view the trailer on the HBO website also. Click on 'watch' once on
the website.  At least the shot of the TR6 did not make it to the cutting
room floor.   I'm hoping the car will be used regularily in the show, but I
missed the opening episode.

http://www.hbo.com/trueblood/

NFI !

John
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.19/1665 - Release Date: 9/10/2008
7:00 PM

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Sep 11 07:56:55 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 09:56:55 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic
In-Reply-To: <20080911032257.EAFCB187873@autox.team.net>
References: <20080911032257.EAFCB187873@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809110955560.21934@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 10 Sep 2008, Andrew Packard wrote:

> As usual, it was driven by the bad guys.  They tried to run over a vampire
> and his woman rescuer.  It drove across the edge of the woods trying to hit
> them.
> Andy

they probably used outtakes of my autocross videos a while back.

:-)

rml
tr6's - one dusty red with rubber bumper overriders.
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Thu Sep 11 08:16:41 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 07:16:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Lug nuts
Message-ID: <927633.13987.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Minilite also won't take the standard lug nuts, so there's four oldies but
goodies that ride along in my toolbox just in case the old redline spare needs
to go on.

And don't forget to carry along the two kinds of wrenches that
you'll need to take one wheel off and put the other on.

Joe Merone
CF18928
South Burlington, VT
Wishing I could go to 6-Pack

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Sep 11 08:17:41 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 07:17:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic
In-Reply-To: <979A4FF9115F40B1B6F93CEE226F1294@bobspc>
References: <200809110304.m8B34D6h010581@mail2.atl.registeredsite.com>
	<979A4FF9115F40B1B6F93CEE226F1294@bobspc>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F750785@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Bob:

        Thanks, nice picture.

        You can tell it is a real TR6 - its dark and the headlights aren't
working.

        The prince of darkness lives!

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 5:10 AM
To: jrhauser at sea-dog.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 sighted in new HBO Vampire Series--off topic

John,
I almost missed it but was able to get a screen capture and posted it in the
6-Pack Forum
http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?p=52350#52350


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 11 11:29:35 2008
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 10:29:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Don Watson
Message-ID: <332765.27893.qm@web51903.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

To Don Watson.  I would like to talk with you about the article in the news.  I think I can convert to the setup you made.  However I need sopme dimensions for your adaptor plate.  Please contact me.  602-843-1399

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 11 14:13:08 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:13:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
Message-ID: <118515.66267.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Robert,
 
>I agree with Vance - it'll cost more to fix the crank than to
get another 
>servicable used or new (my pref. is NOS) crank. They are def.
available 
>from various sources.
 
I thought I'd heard before, (possibly from
you?) that a used crank was better than NOS because they were better if they
had been used for awhile.
 
Mine crank was already 0.010 under so yes, it is
definitely scrap.
 
Kendall

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Sep 11 14:14:48 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 20:14:48 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 oil gallery leak
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV857EC311152EF4082FE31F4560@phx.gbl>

Peter---As Mr. Lang said, these plugs come in stick form (about five plugs to a stick). They have straight threads on them. 3/4" fine, I'm reasonably certain. 
When the machine shop hot tanked my block many years ago, all of the plugs  except this one was removed. This aluminum plug was never a good seal after that. If you use the stick as a replacement, I would suggest that you cut off one piece of it (easy to know where, when you see it), then hacksaw a slot at one end so you can insert it with a screwdriver.
Looking back, I could never get the replacement plug to seal, as it is exposed to the full oil pressure at this point. All sorts of sealer was used, in about three or four different attempts.
I finally ended up using a 3"X 3/4"x16 bolt, cut off to where there were only about 1/2 of an inch of threads left below the shank. Screwing this bolt into the block to where the threads end against the shank tightened it up to where the leak stopped.  Yes, the bolt head is exposed to critical eyes, but it doesn't leak! Put a Happy Face on it?

Dick

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Sep 11 14:53:27 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 13:53:27 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <118515.66267.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <118515.66267.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F750AFC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Kendall:

        I believe the claim is that residual stresses in the crank relax over
time, so older is better. It also may be that the thermal cycling increases
the rate of relaxation (Any metallurgists out there?).
        I would hazard a guess that even a NOS crank has had plenty of time to
relax, thermal cycling or not. The newest crank you could get now would be 30
years old, so it is probably well relaxed. If not, give it a beer to drink and
it will relax. It always works for me.

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kendall Larsen
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:13 PM
To: Robert Lang; 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

Hi Robert,

>I agree with Vance - it'll cost more to fix the crank than to
get another
>servicable used or new (my pref. is NOS) crank. They are def.
available
>from various sources.

I thought I'd heard before, (possibly from
you?) that a used crank was better than NOS because they were better if they
had been used for awhile.

Mine crank was already 0.010 under so yes, it is
definitely scrap.

Kendall

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 11 15:13:32 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 14:13:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack]  New Engine AUTOpsy
Message-ID: <557812.83510.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi James,
The blue bits in this picture are the new Hylomar, blueish, hardens
like silicone,  that I used to seal the rear main seal carrier to the block.
http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/TR6Engine08#5243580299697111794
It looks
like it squeezed out quite a bit and bits broke off. I used Permtex #2 for the
rest of the assembly.
My oil gallery has a hex plug on one end, so I can run a
rush down it from one side. The opposite end is blocked though so I guess I
chould have just shoved whatever might have been blocking the gallery down to
that end when I pushed the brush in.
I was able to turn the crank with a
wrench when I was assembling it and timing the crank. I don't think I get to
blame the machine shop for my problems, unless they didn't clean out the
gallery, which I can't prove anyway.
There is a possibility that the spin on
oil filter adapter could have been installed improperly and it was letting the
oil by unfiltered. I haven't checked into this yet though.
Kendall


-----
Original Message ----
From: "Ruffner, James A *HS"
<JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu>
To: Kendall Larsen
<mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>; 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday,
September 8, 2008 6:42:54 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

What
kind of sealant?  The blue silicone type?  Or Permatex Aviation?  Where were
the pieces of sealant?  And yes, its quite possible that if it was Blue
silicone that some of it jammed the oil gallery.  You said that you ran a
cleaning rod down the gallery.  It's been a while since I pulled a 6's engine
down, but as I remember, the oil gallery is closed at both ends with aluminum
plugs that cannot be pulled out.  Perhaps you meant the cam shaft bore.

<over
limited rest deleted>

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Sep 11 17:56:50 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 19:56:50 EDT
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
Message-ID: <cb7.3b30a7c9.35fb0a42@aol.com>

In a message dated 9/11/2008 4:16:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
mailkendall at sbcglobal.net writes:

There is  a possibility that the spin on
oil filter adapter could have been installed  improperly and it was letting 
the
oil by unfiltered. I haven't checked into  this yet though.



Kendall,
Is there any possibility that this is a spin on adapter intended for  oil 
cooler use but the inlet and output ports have been plugged because there is  no 
cooler? 
I know of someone who made this mistake and lost the engine in a very short  
time after rebuild. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Psssst...Have you heard the news? There's a new fashion blog, 
plus the latest fall trends and hair styles at StyleList.com.      
(http://www.stylelist.com/trends?ncid=aolsty00050000000014)

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Thu Sep 11 21:35:59 2008
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Thu, 11 Sep 2008 20:35:59 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Removing gearbox fillplug
Message-ID: <256091.68607.qm@web65609.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

I removed a mangled one with  bigass water pump pliers.  Mangled it more.  
Bruce Simms
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for
the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Sep 12 08:09:12 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 10:09:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <cb7.3b30a7c9.35fb0a42@aol.com>
References: <cb7.3b30a7c9.35fb0a42@aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809121006130.27458@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 11 Sep 2008 DLylis at aol.com wrote:

> In a message dated 9/11/2008 4:16:08 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> mailkendall at sbcglobal.net writes:
>
> There is  a possibility that the spin on
> oil filter adapter could have been installed  improperly and it was letting
> the
> oil by unfiltered. I haven't checked into  this yet though.


Hi - I've seen this (unfiltered oil) from the improper fitment of the 
spin-on adapter. The result is unmistakable and obvious. In less than 100 
miles, the oil will take on a metallic look to it - it is very obvious 
that things are not right.

If this happened AFTER the initial break-in, you shouldn't get big chunks 
(which block or accumulate and block passages), just fine metal. But you 
cannot mistake the presence of the metal in the oil. It makes the oil look 
like metal-flake paint.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sbeaulieu at caci.com  Fri Sep 12 12:24:29 2008
From: sbeaulieu at caci.com (Stephen Beaulieu)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:24:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <OFB6F94D76.C53D8574-ON852574C2.00651E86-852574C2.00651E85@caci.com>

I will be out of the office starting  09/12/2008 and will not return until 09/15/2008.

I will respond to your message when I return.

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Fri Sep 12 12:52:24 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 14:52:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy / oil filter
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40809121152r563d8bc0m36983761ce39a609@mail.gmail.com>

Out of curiosity, how would you improperly install the spin-on
adapter?  I know some people (including myself) have installed it at a
slight angle to avoid the oil filter hitting the clutch slave.  Would
turning it too much be the problem?

> Hi - I've seen this (unfiltered oil) from the improper fitment of the
> spin-on adapter. The result is unmistakable and obvious. In less than 100
> miles, the oil will take on a metallic look to it - it is very obvious
> that things are not right.

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri Sep 12 13:23:18 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 12:23:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy / oil filter
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40809121152r563d8bc0m36983761ce39a609@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD4D2@MAIN.RSC.local>

I had the same question and add another.  When I bought by spin on
adapter years ago, it came with a warning that it would not work on
certain blocks as depicted in a drawing that came with the adapter.
That drawing looks like every block I have so I was reluctant to install
the adapter.  Any one else have this issue or see this warning?

Bob Clark
'69 TR6



Out of curiosity, how would you improperly install the spin-on adapter?
I know some people (including myself) have installed it at a slight
angle to avoid the oil filter hitting the clutch slave.  Would turning
it too much be the problem?

> Hi - I've seen this (unfiltered oil) from the improper fitment of the
> spin-on adapter. The result is unmistakable and obvious. In less than
> 100 miles, the oil will take on a metallic look to it - it is very
> obvious that things are not right.

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
You are subscribed as rclark at robertsonclark.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Sep 12 15:53:31 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 12 Sep 2008 17:53:31 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy / oil filter
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40809121152r563d8bc0m36983761ce39a609@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40809121152r563d8bc0m36983761ce39a609@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809121459360.27458@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 12 Sep 2008, John VanNorman wrote:

> Out of curiosity, how would you improperly install the spin-on
> adapter?  I know some people (including myself) have installed it at a
> slight angle to avoid the oil filter hitting the clutch slave.  Would
> turning it too much be the problem?

There are two different o-rings that come with the Mocal adapter. Call 
them thick and thin. The installation call for installing one or the other 
along with some modelling clay and you tighten the unit to the block (and 
then remove it). You check the clay to determine whether the gasket 
(o-ring) is sealing. You then stay with the ring that you chose or you use 
the other one depending on what you see.

There's another failure mode that I've seen. The o-ring can get squished 
in use and if you pull the adapter and try to reinstall with a squished 
gasket, you get a failure (and the unfitered oil through the motor.) I've 
had one adapter do that TWICE on my street car.

:-(

But the angle should be no problem...

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Sep 13 19:22:05 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 21:22:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lock lube?
Message-ID: <48CC673D.6080103@maine.rr.com>

Hey List;

Seems to be awfully quiet on the list this weekend....

Anyone found a particular product works well as a lube on door, boot, 
and cubby locks? Graphite?
WD40? I've seen "spray dry lube" products but not sure what that's all 
about.

Thanks for any insights.

Dave
'74-Six (running TBI and A-type OD)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Sep 13 20:27:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 13 Sep 2008 22:27:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lock lube?
In-Reply-To: <48CC673D.6080103@maine.rr.com>
References: <48CC673D.6080103@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <9003F6CE6AD54291847F1DC5605FD25A@bobspc>

The Graphite stuff works well, especially in the winter when the locks can
freeze up..... Never mind.....we're talking about a TR6 here. ;-) 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Saturday, September 13, 2008 9:22 PM
To: 6 Pack List
Subject: [6pack] Lock lube?

Hey List;

Seems to be awfully quiet on the list this weekend....

Anyone found a particular product works well as a lube on door, boot, and
cubby locks? Graphite?
WD40? I've seen "spray dry lube" products but not sure what that's all
about.

Thanks for any insights.

Dave
'74-Six (running TBI and A-type OD)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
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12:50 PM

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Sun Sep 14 09:35:07 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 11:35:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F750AFC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <118515.66267.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>,
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F750AFC@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF87A9F149@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

The "stress release" you are talking about is a well understood phenomanom.
What is occuring is the realignment of the crystal structure of the metal in
the item.  It is also called "work hardening."  Gun barrel makers have
understood this for years.  To make the best barrels, once the barrel was
made, it would be dropped on a hard surface, or hit with a heavy hammer a few
times.  Then the final alignment would be done.  But this was also risky, in
that the barrel might be ruined.  Not generally done, and the process of
"warming" a barrel during a competition served the purpose of releasing the
internal stresses for the duration.  Shooting with a cold barrel, the point of
aim will shift as the barrel warms, so you would need to reaim the gun after
each shot.  Not good in competition.


________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net
[6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance [vance.navarrette at intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 4:53 PM
To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

        Kendall:

        I believe the claim is that residual stresses in the crank relax over
time, so older is better. It also may be that the thermal cycling increases
the rate of relaxation (Any metallurgists out there?).
        I would hazard a guess that even a NOS crank has had plenty of time
to
relax, thermal cycling or not. The newest crank you could get now would be 30
years old, so it is probably well relaxed. If not, give it a beer to drink
and
it will relax. It always works for me.

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Kendall Larsen
Sent: Thursday, September 11, 2008 1:13 PM
To: Robert Lang; 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Engine AUTOpsy

Hi Robert,

>I agree with Vance - it'll cost more to fix the crank than to
get another
>servicable used or new (my pref. is NOS) crank. They are def.
available
>from various sources.

I thought I'd heard before, (possibly from
you?) that a used crank was better than NOS because they were better if they
had been used for awhile.

Mine crank was already 0.010 under so yes, it is
definitely scrap.

Kendall
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sun Sep 14 11:56:36 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 13:56:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Broken Down in Roanoke - Need Name of Garage
References: <C3BAF84B-CADD-4DBC-AD94-BC0968843539@6-pack.org>
Message-ID: <7BDDA595-096F-41FB-B8D1-508219D0BAFF@mindspring.com>

> I just got a call from a friend, Alan,  in his TR6 who is broken  
> down in the Roanoke, VA area.  The problem is probably with his rear  
> CV joints (yes, CV not U/J's).  So can anyone recommend a mechanic  
> to help Alan out?   He's a long way from NY.  Alan's cell is  
> 917-533-6193 if you want to speak with him on his cell.
>
> Thanks very much,
>
> Ashford Little
> 6-Pack Membership Secretary
> '70 TR6

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 14 13:03:22 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 12:03:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet
Message-ID: <849621.78891.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

How about someone posting something about the Townsend meet (Ashford ?), or a
link, for those of us who couldn't make it?
 
Mike Lunsford, POd that I couldn't make it

From grant at bowtie6.com  Sun Sep 14 16:16:03 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 18:16:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Broken Down in Roanoke - Need Name of Garage
In-Reply-To: <7BDDA595-096F-41FB-B8D1-508219D0BAFF@mindspring.com>
References: <C3BAF84B-CADD-4DBC-AD94-BC0968843539@6-pack.org>
	<7BDDA595-096F-41FB-B8D1-508219D0BAFF@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c916b7$7a36fca0$6ea4f5e0$@com>

Oh HELL!!!  

I thought those high dollar, fancy-schmancy cv joints were the cat's meow...
Oh damn, I hope they had a guarantee (or is it a warranty?)!  

That ain't good...  

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun Sep 14 17:22:22 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 19:22:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet
In-Reply-To: <849621.78891.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <849621.78891.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W234162F3F8316657C93021BA530@phx.gbl>

Last time I was at the dragon was a couple of years ago when I went with my
son to attend the Minis on the Dragon event.  Cant remember the name of the
establishment we stayed in but it was connected to a restaurant. The floors
were spongy, was afraid we were going to fall through the bathroom floor. At
night you could hear the rats (way too big to be mice) scurrying around on the
ceiling tiles over the beds. Ahhhh, memories:)

Marty



> Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 12:03:22 -0700
> From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet
>
> How about someone posting something about the Townsend meet (Ashford ?), or
a
> link, for those of us who couldn't make it?
>
> Mike Lunsford, POd that I couldn't make it
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com

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From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sun Sep 14 19:45:11 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 21:45:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Alan's ok - was broke in Roanoke
Message-ID: <3A31268A-CFD4-4276-880B-3F4B4AF3FDA8@mindspring.com>

Alan (aka broken down in Roanoke) is fine.  Well, if fine means you're  
in a rented Excursion with a trailer towing his TR behind it.  He said  
to pass along that he greatly appreciated the calls with offers of  
help, and to let everyone know that the transportation "issue" is well  
in hand.

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Sep 14 20:51:53 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 14 Sep 2008 22:51:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet
References: <849621.78891.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <D14EC144660740448F896EC4AD6CE6B9@alan>

Hi Mike,

I put up a few photos on Photo Bucket.

http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/Trials/

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 14, 2008 3:03 PM
Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet


> How about someone posting something about the Townsend meet (Ashford ?), 
> or a
> link, for those of us who couldn't make it?
>
> Mike Lunsford, POd that I couldn't make it
> _______________________________________________

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Mon Sep 15 06:06:27 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:06:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Broken Down in Roanoke - Need Name of Garage
References: <091420082017.23038.48CD7142000E5274000059FE2200751150970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <8C9F7526-D26F-4C2B-94D6-4000C33523F5@mindspring.com>

Don't people go to the cv joints to get away from problems?

Several people asked about why the cv joints were an issue, and I  
wanted to clarify that we don't believe this was the root cause.  We  
believe an improperly balanced driveshaft was causing the problem.   
Don't blame the c/v joints or the vendor.

Ashford Little
'70 TR6

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 15 07:11:25 2008
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 09:11:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Broken Down in Roanoke - Need Name of Garage
In-Reply-To: <8C9F7526-D26F-4C2B-94D6-4000C33523F5@mindspring.com>
References: <091420082017.23038.48CD7142000E5274000059FE2200751150970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<8C9F7526-D26F-4C2B-94D6-4000C33523F5@mindspring.com> 
Message-ID: <COL101-W11FE0A1D71CE9478E1244CC6520@phx.gbl>

Well I finally made it home - America is a great place in some respects. What
other country can you rent an SUV and a trailer at 4pm on a Sunday and have
the tow-truck driver lower the car so it rolls from the back of his flatbed
straight onto the trailer so you don't even have to push it on.  As to my
little problem, two points - first I have a driveline vibration.  That has
(and is) caused the socket head cap screws that held the adapter plates to the
diff to back out. The (third) time I tightened them - after previously
switching to 12.9 screws and using blue loctite - I put them in with red
loctite and a higher torque setting. Well the screws held, but the inner
passenger CV exploded at around 6k when I was standing on the throttle.
Secondly, I didn't buy the CVs from the vendor who's selling them now (or
rather isn't because they aren't on his website any more). I got them from the
manufacturer a long time ago. In fact the vendor - and I'm sure you all know
who I'm talking about - bent over backwards to overnight a replacement CV
joint to me down to the nearest zip to Townsend that any of the carriers (UPS,
Fedex, etc) delivered to on a Saturday.  I don't know if it is the same one
that's gone south either at this point. I haven't even taken it off the
trailer yet. That's job #1 this morning after some coffee. I was nursing the
car home along I-81 and heard a bang at the rear. The whole car then started
shaking so I decided discretion was the better part of valor.  I'd also like
to say thank-you to those who called me offering to help, and to the people
who stopped. Man, it was hot out there yesterday...

> From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com> To: Triumphs at autox.team.net;
6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:06:27 -0400> Subject: Re:
[6pack] Broken Down in Roanoke - Need Name of Garage> > Don't people go to the
cv joints to get away from problems?> > Several people asked about why the cv
joints were an issue, and I > wanted to clarify that we don't believe this was
the root cause. We > believe an improperly balanced driveshaft was causing the
problem. > Don't blame the c/v joints or the vendor.> > Ashford Little> '70
TR6> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as alanatkinson at hotmail.com

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From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Mon Sep 15 07:21:06 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:21:06 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet
References: <849621.78891.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<D14EC144660740448F896EC4AD6CE6B9@alan>
Message-ID: <AD99E393952D415CAEDB054143E1AE5B@Dell320>

I was looking at the TR6 with a Corvette engine....top speed unknown????


> Hi Mike,
> 
> I put up a few photos on Photo Bucket.
> 
> http://s246.photobucket.com/albums/gg107/6parts/Trials/
> 
> Al

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep 15 09:28:47 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 08:28:47 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Dan Masters MGB-GT
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79C793@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

    Wow!

        What a work of art. Dan truly is the master, and I am but a wannabe.

        I am not worthy... I am not worthy....


        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Sep 15 09:34:26 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 11:34:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Dan Masters MGB-GT
References: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79C793@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <75929881A68E4D0099E8D2FE2918BF50@alan>

The conversion on Dan's  MGB GT was done by Ted Lathrop at 
www.fastcarsinc.com

Al


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 11:28 AM
Subject: [6pack] Dan Masters MGB-GT


>    Wow!
>
>        What a work of art. Dan truly is the master, and I am but a 
> wannabe.
>
>        I am not worthy... I am not worthy....
>
>
>        Vance
>
>
>      Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net
>
>
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> 9:21 AM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 15 10:35:31 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 11:35:31 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet
References: <849621.78891.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<D14EC144660740448F896EC4AD6CE6B9@alan>
Message-ID: <001601c91751$64bf7ab0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0WgyxpgzmE

From john70350 at msn.com  Mon Sep 15 10:44:36 2008
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 16:44:36 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TRials Videos
Message-ID: <COL101-W8459B48398A5C9009B3C9AF7520@phx.gbl>

I've uploaded quite a few videos of everyone at TRials and you might find
yourself on there if you went. Enjoy!

 http://www.youtube.com/user/BuckeyeTriumphs

                                        John Johnson
                              President, Buckeye Triumphs
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of
your life.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Mon Sep 15 10:52:08 2008
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 09:52:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild
Message-ID: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all. I am hoping you guys can provide some insight.

I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments. They did a real nice job and it is working much better than before. There is no longer any bounce and it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place. My only question is that it use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was doing 70 MPH. Now it is about 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I have always had my doubts about the accuracy of the speedo as well. I am running 205/70/15 tires. The transmission and rear end are stock. No overdrive. Is this normal?

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6 Jasmin Yellow
New Haven, CT
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep 15 11:02:33 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 17:02:33 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild
In-Reply-To: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B5610863@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

With OD I see 2500 rpm at 70, without OD 3000 rpm at 70 sounds about right.

[long diatribe re the lack of OD on the bulk of the exported TR6's
suppressed]

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ian
Breyer
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 12:52 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild

Hi all. I am hoping you guys can provide some insight.

I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments. They did a real
nice job and it is working much better than before. There is no longer any
bounce and it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place. My only
question is that it use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was doing 70
MPH. Now it is about 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I have always
had my doubts about the accuracy of the speedo as well. I am running 205/70/15
tires. The transmission and rear end are stock. No overdrive. Is this normal?

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6 Jasmin Yellow
New Haven, CT
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com
_______________________________________________

From hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net  Mon Sep 15 11:36:18 2008
From: hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net (Hugh R McAleer)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:36:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [SPAM]   tachometer rebuild
In-Reply-To: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <F3D6F95725C04FD0984036413053D80B@FoxconnPC>

How about hooking up an electric tach to see how the two compare?  You can 
also do a speed run on a measured mile to see if your speedometer is off.

Just a thought.

Hugh
HRMc
TR250 Owner and a couple of Stags
Zebulon, GA
Newsletter Editor
Georgia Triumph Association


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ian Breyer" <ianbreyer at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 12:52 PM
Subject: [SPAM] [6pack] tachometer rebuild


> Hi all. I am hoping you guys can provide some insight.
>
> I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments. They did a real 
> nice job and it is working much better than before. There is no longer any 
> bounce and it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place. My only 
> question is that it use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was 
> doing 70 MPH. Now it is about 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I 
> have always had my doubts about the accuracy of the speedo as well. I am 
> running 205/70/15 tires. The transmission and rear end are stock. No 
> overdrive. Is this normal?
>
> Ian
>
> Ian Breyer
> 72 TR6 Jasmin Yellow
> New Haven, CT
> home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
> work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 15 11:58:19 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 17:58:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild
In-Reply-To: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W44BBBB8B0B256446346D278E520@phx.gbl>

Ian,
I've seen a conversion chart for each gear somewhere, but I recentally read
this quote from an early TR6 Roadtest in Sports Car Graphic, Feburary 1969.
"The wood-grained dash still contains the large and legible full
instrumentation, and the tach and speedo are still synchronized to read
together in top gear. For instance, 70 mph is 3500 rpm with both needles
pointing nearly straight up." So it sounds like your 'new' tach is right on to
me.

Sloane :)69-Six> > I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments.
They did a real nice job and it is working much better than before. There is
no longer any bounce and it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place.
My only question is that it use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was
doing 70 MPH. Now it is about 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I
have always had my doubts about the accuracy of the speedo as well. I am
running 205/70/15 tires. The transmission and rear end are stock. No
overdrive. Is this normal?> > Ian> > Ian Breyer> 72 TR6 Jasmin Yellow> New
Haven, CT> home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com> work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Sep 15 12:03:16 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 18:03:16 GMT
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV10155D5DA9D1A8537FE840F4520@phx.gbl>

Ian---Your speedo should read 62mph when taching 3,000 in 4th gear. (The speedo should be reading 75.6 at 3600 rpm)

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Breyer
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 9:52 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild

Hi all. I am hoping you guys can provide some insight.

I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments. They did a real nice job and it is working much better than before. There is no longer any bounce and it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place. My only question is that it use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was doing 70 MPH. Now it is about 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I have always had my doubts about the accuracy of the speedo as well. I am running 205/70/15 tires. The transmission and rear end are stock. No overdrive. Is this normal?

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6 Jasmin Yellow
New Haven, CT
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Mon Sep 15 12:14:58 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:14:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet
References: <849621.78891.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com><D14EC144660740448F896EC4AD6CE6B9@alan>
	<001601c91751$64bf7ab0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <000601c9175e$f673f910$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Hey Oliver
Dam that looks like a lot of fun
did you put all the real slow drivers in the rear
as sweeper cars?
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 12:35 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Townsend, TN meet


> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=stIUBx5jWY8
> 
> http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=e0WgyxpgzmE
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From emanteno at comcast.net  Mon Sep 15 12:10:59 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 18:10:59 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild
Message-ID: <091520081810.19566.48CEA53300035F3500004C6E2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Ian Breyer <ianbreyer at yahoo.com> 

> Hi all. I am hoping you guys can provide some insight. 
> 
> I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments. They did a real nice 
> job and it is working much better than before. There is no longer any bounce and 
> it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place. My only question is that it 
> use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was doing 70 MPH. Now it is about 
> 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I have always had my doubts about the 
> accuracy of the speedo as well. I am running 205/70/15 tires. The transmission 
> and rear end are stock. No overdrive. Is this normal? 

When new, my TR6 showed 3500 rpm at 70 mph, no overdrive. Your 205/70x15 tires are very close in diameter to stock tires, so your reading is likely more accurate now than before.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U now on 215/60x15 tires
Highland Park, IL

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 15 12:11:32 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:11:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild
In-Reply-To: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8AB69D0B45EB4F2191FB42D214C1BB43@bobspc>

Ian,
I can tell you that with that size tire I was turning about 3500 RPM at 70
MPH in 4th gear with the stock diff. 60 MPH was about 3000 RPM. I'm guessing
that the rebuild has given you a very accurate tach now. I have a graph
comparing my old TR6 tranny to the Toyota 5 speed here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/5speedRatio.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ian Breyer
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 12:52 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild

Hi all. I am hoping you guys can provide some insight.

I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments. They did a real
nice job and it is working much better than before. There is no longer any
bounce and it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place. My only
question is that it use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was doing
70 MPH. Now it is about 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I have
always had my doubts about the accuracy of the speedo as well. I am running
205/70/15 tires. The transmission and rear end are stock. No overdrive. Is
this normal?

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6 Jasmin Yellow
New Haven, CT
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1671 - Release Date: 9/15/2008
9:21 AM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep 15 12:15:39 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 11:15:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild
In-Reply-To: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <498477.59594.qm@web52502.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79C954@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Ian:

        North American TR6s use 3.70:1 diffs. In fourth gear the tranny is
1:1. the only variable is tire size.

        so, 3600RPM/3.70 = 973 RPM for the tires, or 16.2 revolutions per
second.

        16.2rps x (( 2 x ((205mm x 0.70)/25.4mm per inch) + 15inch wheel)) *
3.14) / 12 inches per foot = 111.5 fps.

        88 fps = 60 MPH, so 111.5 fps = 76 MPH

        Sounds like your speedo or tach or both are off. Since you just had
tach rebuilt, it is probably your speedo. If your diff has been modified, to
say 4.10 gears instead of 3.70, then you are running at 68.5 MPH which means
your speedo is probably about as accurate as they get.

        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Ian Breyer
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 9:52 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tachometer rebuild

Hi all. I am hoping you guys can provide some insight.

I just had my tachometer rebuilt by Nissonger Instruments. They did a real
nice job and it is working much better than before. There is no longer any
bounce and it isn't hanging up and jumping all over the place. My only
question is that it use to register 3,000 RPMs in 4th gear when I was doing 70
MPH. Now it is about 3,600 in 4th gear at that speed. Of course I have always
had my doubts about the accuracy of the speedo as well. I am running 205/70/15
tires. The transmission and rear end are stock. No overdrive. Is this normal?

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6 Jasmin Yellow
New Haven, CT
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Mon Sep 15 12:54:17 2008
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:54:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6-Pack assist program
Message-ID: <COL101-W4264620D1E2C827E8F2C77C6520@phx.gbl>

It was apparent at the TRials this year - or more accurately going to and from
the TRials - that we need a nationwide resource for repair shops and towing
companies.

With that in mind, we're going to set up a list on the site, and have a link
to a PDF by region so that you can print it out and shove it in the glovebox
while travelling.
It's not going to work without your help. We need YOU to tell US about local
garages - with contact details - that you know of that work on these cars.
They don't have to be TR specialists per se (although it would be nice if they
were). Any LBC shop should be able to fix them.
If you are the proprietor of a garage or own a towing company, we want to hear
from you. There's no charge to add your name to the list - it's going to be a
service to the community. You can send the details to

 webmaster at 6-pack.org


The more information you can give us - names, hours, emergency numbers, etc
the better.

Best Wishes, Alan Atkinson
6-Pack Webmaster
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 15 12:57:05 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 14:57:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs
Message-ID: <2D5E026274F74ED982B88C18C17ED01D@bobspc>

I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator
on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan
comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock
mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory
calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine
works harder. 

I thought that an alternator's output was fairly constant and had no impact
on engine RPMs and vice versa. I just went out and let my car settle into a
steady idle with the volt gauge reading a steady 14.x with just the electric
fuel pump running. Raising the RPMs the had no impact on the gauge reading.
I turned on the headlights, electric fan, heater fan, radio and electric
fuel pump and saw the volt gauge only drop to 13.x but there was no impact
on RPMs. Raising the RPMs with that full load had no impact on the volt
gauge. This is what I'd expect to see happen, but I'm no expert. Does it
make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on?

Just curious.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Sep 15 14:05:32 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 13:05:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs
In-Reply-To: <2D5E026274F74ED982B88C18C17ED01D@bobspc>
References: <2D5E026274F74ED982B88C18C17ED01D@bobspc>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79CA29@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Bob:

        Yes, it makes sense.

        An alternator with no load on it will only require the frictional
losses + some small amount of work to keep the windings active.
        If you place a load of say, 20 amps on the alternator, you are now
demanding the original amount of work + (13v x 20a) = 260 watts. This is
roughly 1/3 HP of work (~760 W = 1 HP) that now needs to be done. This work
does not appear out of thin air, it is supplied by the motor because now it is
much harder to spin the alternator.
        The regulator is there solely to keep the voltage constant, otherwise
the faster you spin the alternator the higher the voltage would go (assuming
the load is not changing). So you should NOT see your voltmeter move very much
at all as you add or remove loads - although the engine may speed up or slow
down if it is idling.
        The other variable here is the tune of the engine. If the engine has a
hot cam, then it does not have any torque reserve at idle so a small change in
load can really slow down the idle speed. A stock cam delivers a robust torque
at idle, so you may not notice the idle speed change much when a load is
applied.
        An electric fan is the way to go, even though there is a small loss of
efficiency when converting the load to an electrical one. A mechanical fan
will spin up to 5,000 RPM, and so will draw up to two or three HP. An electric
fan will normally spin no faster than about 2,000 HP and so will draw 1/2HP or
less while operating (0 HP when not operating).

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----

I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator
on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan
comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock
mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory
calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine
works harder.

<snip>

Does it
make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on?

Just curious.

Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 15 14:48:19 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 15 Sep 2008 15:48:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 6-Pack assist program
References: <COL101-W4264620D1E2C827E8F2C77C6520@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <005a01c91774$ab1d7750$39010a0a@Ranteer.local>

great idea.  thank you.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Alan Atkinson" <alanatkinson at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 1:54 PM
Subject: [6pack] 6-Pack assist program


> It was apparent at the TRials this year - or more accurately going to and 
> from
> the TRials - that we need a nationwide resource for repair shops and 
> towing
> companies.
>
> With that in mind, we're going to set up a list on the site, and have a 
> link
> to a PDF by region so that you can print it out and shove it in the 
> glovebox
> while travelling.
> It's not going to work without your help. We need YOU to tell US about 
> local
> garages - with contact details - that you know of that work on these cars.
> They don't have to be TR specialists per se (although it would be nice if 
> they
> were). Any LBC shop should be able to fix them.
> If you are the proprietor of a garage or own a towing company, we want to 
> hear
> from you. There's no charge to add your name to the list - it's going to 
> be a
> service to the community. You can send the details to
>
> webmaster at 6-pack.org
>
>
> The more information you can give us - names, hours, emergency numbers, 
> etc
> the better.
>
> Best Wishes, Alan Atkinson
> 6-Pack Webmaster
> _______________ 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Sep 15 18:39:47 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 00:39:47 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV10AB6585D33E871FC6C5E4F44D0@phx.gbl>

Bob---I have the same Delco 55 amp alternator. With the engine idling around 800,. turning on the headlights will cause a drop of about 50 rpm. (At one time it was closer to 150 rpm, till I fitted a better block-to-ground connection)
Could be (my) the mild cam not up to the task at low idle rpms, like Vance suggested? No longer a big deal, but it is still a noticeable drop. Also the voltmeter will eventually show a drop of maybe .5V when idling with a load on the battery.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 11:57 AM
To: 'Triumph List', 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs

I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator
on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan
comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock
mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory
calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine
works harder. 

I thought that an alternator's output was fairly constant and had no impact
on engine RPMs and vice versa. I just went out and let my car settle into a
steady idle with the volt gauge reading a steady 14.x with just the electric
fuel pump running. Raising the RPMs the had no impact on the gauge reading.
I turned on the headlights, electric fan, heater fan, radio and electric
fuel pump and saw the volt gauge only drop to 13.x but there was no impact
on RPMs. Raising the RPMs with that full load had no impact on the volt
gauge. This is what I'd expect to see happen, but I'm no expert. Does it
make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on?

Just curious.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep 15 18:47:18 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 00:47:18 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79CA29@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <2D5E026274F74ED982B88C18C17ED01D@bobspc>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79CA29@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B5610967@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bob, thanks for bringing this up and Vance, thanks for the clarification.

When we first started up my newly rebuilt motor (9.6:1, GP2 cam) Bosch 55A
alternator, 16 inch permacool fan, we noticed that the idling engine rpm
dropped several hundred rpm when the fan kicked in. Actually since I have
persistent issues with high idle it was a welcome drop but now I at least know
what is going on.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 4:06 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs

        Bob:

        Yes, it makes sense.

        An alternator with no load on it will only require the frictional
losses + some small amount of work to keep the windings active.
        If you place a load of say, 20 amps on the alternator, you are now
demanding the original amount of work + (13v x 20a) = 260 watts. This is
roughly 1/3 HP of work (~760 W = 1 HP) that now needs to be done. This work
does not appear out of thin air, it is supplied by the motor because now it
is
much harder to spin the alternator.
        The regulator is there solely to keep the voltage constant, otherwise
the faster you spin the alternator the higher the voltage would go (assuming
the load is not changing). So you should NOT see your voltmeter move very
much
at all as you add or remove loads - although the engine may speed up or slow
down if it is idling.
        The other variable here is the tune of the engine. If the engine has
a
hot cam, then it does not have any torque reserve at idle so a small change
in
load can really slow down the idle speed. A stock cam delivers a robust
torque
at idle, so you may not notice the idle speed change much when a load is
applied.
        An electric fan is the way to go, even though there is a small loss
of
efficiency when converting the load to an electrical one. A mechanical fan
will spin up to 5,000 RPM, and so will draw up to two or three HP. An
electric
fan will normally spin no faster than about 2,000 HP and so will draw 1/2HP
or
less while operating (0 HP when not operating).

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----

I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator
on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan
comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock
mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory
calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine
works harder.

<snip>

Does it
make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on?

Just curious.

Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 16 05:21:22 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 04:21:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Alternator question
Message-ID: <409164.42543.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

This discussion, especially by Vance, was very enlightening, even to one who
dropped out of engineering after calculus I.  I was especially interested in
seeing the amount of HP required to run the fan, lights and etc.
 
I recently asked about using an electric AC compressor on my 6 so this bears
on that question also.  In regard to the AC compressor I haven't done much
work on the idea but have been discouraged by the non standard voltages (160
volts comes to mind) which they use to power the compressor which they get
from all of the extra batteries and generator capacity they have avaiable.  I
know there are ways around this problem but so far it looks like the cure is
worse than the disease, at least cost wise.
 
Mike Lunsford

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Sep 16 06:04:18 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 16 Sep 2008 08:04:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79CA29@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <2D5E026274F74ED982B88C18C17ED01D@bobspc>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F79CA29@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <AA73386C8DA5485F84E9C21512E6B71D@bobspc>

Thanks for all of the responses to this question. You learn something new
everyday.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] 
Sent: Monday, September 15, 2008 4:06 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Alternator Output vs RPMs

        Bob:

        Yes, it makes sense.

        An alternator with no load on it will only require the frictional
losses + some small amount of work to keep the windings active.
        If you place a load of say, 20 amps on the alternator, you are now
demanding the original amount of work + (13v x 20a) = 260 watts. This is
roughly 1/3 HP of work (~760 W = 1 HP) that now needs to be done. This work
does not appear out of thin air, it is supplied by the motor because now it
is much harder to spin the alternator.
        The regulator is there solely to keep the voltage constant,
otherwise the faster you spin the alternator the higher the voltage would go
(assuming the load is not changing). So you should NOT see your voltmeter
move very much at all as you add or remove loads - although the engine may
speed up or slow down if it is idling.
        The other variable here is the tune of the engine. If the engine has
a hot cam, then it does not have any torque reserve at idle so a small
change in load can really slow down the idle speed. A stock cam delivers a
robust torque at idle, so you may not notice the idle speed change much when
a load is applied.
        An electric fan is the way to go, even though there is a small loss
of efficiency when converting the load to an electrical one. A mechanical
fan will spin up to 5,000 RPM, and so will draw up to two or three HP. An
electric fan will normally spin no faster than about 2,000 HP and so will
draw 1/2HP or less while operating (0 HP when not operating).

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----

I'm having a discussion with a TR6 friend who has a Delco 55 amp alternator
on his car like I do. He says that every time his Perma-Cool electric fan
comes on (he doesn't have a mechanical fan) he sees a 400 RPM drop (stock
mechanical tach) in engine speed. His reasoning is that when an accessory
calls for power the alternator has to work harder and, in turn, the engine
works harder.

<snip>

Does it
make sense that his RPMs would drop when his fan comes on?

Just curious.

Bob
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.6.21/1672 - Release Date: 9/15/2008
9:21 AM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Sep 17 19:35:25 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 17 Sep 2008 20:35:25 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TRials - from my cockpit!  updated!
References: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM><002f01c88863$ee05da80$ca118f80$@net>
	<003801c88868$2f346b80$8d9d4280$@net>
Message-ID: <006701c9192f$06aedc10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/townsend/

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Sep 18 08:21:31 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 07:21:31 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TRials - from my cockpit!  updated!
In-Reply-To: <006701c9192f$06aedc10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <DECF4C93E4518340AA879B961ADD05400F7D10EB@WPGCLUS2.CORP.STANDARDAERO.COM><002f01c88863$ee05da80$ca118f80$@net>
	<003801c88868$2f346b80$8d9d4280$@net>
	<006701c9192f$06aedc10$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F80D8A3@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Oliver:

        GREAT pictures. Thanks for sharing.

        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Oliver
Sent: Wednesday, September 17, 2008 6:35 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] TRials - from my cockpit! updated!

http://www.ranteer.com/townsend/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Sep 18 11:47:16 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 12:47:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] white letters on light background
References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
	<000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local>
	<000701c8a32e$985d8cf0$6601a8c0@Robert>
Message-ID: <002a01c919b6$990e6710$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

thanks to the lister who pointed that out.

the letters are black now

www.ranteer.com/townsend

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Thu Sep 18 19:59:11 2008
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Thu, 18 Sep 2008 18:59:11 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition
Message-ID: <000001c919fb$4f6b0830$b1191718@computer>

To do this, I'm trying to locate the resistor wire that tames the positive
side of the coil down to 6 volts.  I would like to use the coil that takes
12 volts in.  This TR6 has an old and fairly stock wiring harness and
currently has two wires going to the positive side of the coil.  The wiring
diagram only shows one wire going to the positive side of the coil so not
sure what I have here.  

Is the resistor wire just the one going from the fuse block to the coil and
if converted to a standard wire, would my coil have 12 volts to it?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Sep 19 05:41:06 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 07:41:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <000001c919fb$4f6b0830$b1191718@computer>
References: <000001c919fb$4f6b0830$b1191718@computer>
Message-ID: <5117138819DF4C54B5FE65938CF0654B@bobspc>

Jim,
You're talking about the ballast wire that goes from the coil to the
ignition switch. It's a pink/white wire (I think the cover is cloth-like
instead of plastic) that has a solid core which is not copper. I forget what
it's made of. One end is at the coil and the other end ties together with 3
white wires (fuse box, voltmeter & alternator warning light) and attaches to
post #3 on the ignition switch. You can find an updated stock diagram here
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf  Just scroll down to your model
year. 

Having said all of that I'm not sure if you can just remove the wire and add
a new coil. I let the other experts answer that part of your question.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jim hearn
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 9:59 PM
To: '6-Pack ListServe'
Subject: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition

To do this, I'm trying to locate the resistor wire that tames the positive
side of the coil down to 6 volts.  I would like to use the coil that takes
12 volts in.  This TR6 has an old and fairly stock wiring harness and
currently has two wires going to the positive side of the coil.  The wiring
diagram only shows one wire going to the positive side of the coil so not
sure what I have here.  

Is the resistor wire just the one going from the fuse block to the coil and
if converted to a standard wire, would my coil have 12 volts to it?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat] _______________________________________________

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9:01 AM

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Sep 19 06:52:15 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 12:52:15 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition
In-Reply-To: <5117138819DF4C54B5FE65938CF0654B@bobspc>
References: <000001c919fb$4f6b0830$b1191718@computer>
	<5117138819DF4C54B5FE65938CF0654B@bobspc>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B5E71A53@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

If you use a 12v coil you need to provide it 12v all of the time that the
ignition is on, not just while starting as is the case with the 6v coils. I
believe on the 74 it is a simple matter of moving the non ballast coil wire
from the starter relay over to the fuse box and that will simply bypass the
ballast wire. This is described in the Dan Masters excellent book.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 7:41 AM
To: 'jim hearn'; '6-Pack ListServe'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition

Jim,
You're talking about the ballast wire that goes from the coil to the
ignition switch. It's a pink/white wire (I think the cover is cloth-like
instead of plastic) that has a solid core which is not copper. I forget what
it's made of. One end is at the coil and the other end ties together with 3
white wires (fuse box, voltmeter & alternator warning light) and attaches to
post #3 on the ignition switch. You can find an updated stock diagram here
http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf  Just scroll down to your model
year.

Having said all of that I'm not sure if you can just remove the wire and add
a new coil. I let the other experts answer that part of your question.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of jim hearn
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 9:59 PM
To: '6-Pack ListServe'
Subject: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition

To do this, I'm trying to locate the resistor wire that tames the positive
side of the coil down to 6 volts.  I would like to use the coil that takes
12 volts in.  This TR6 has an old and fairly stock wiring harness and
currently has two wires going to the positive side of the coil.  The wiring
diagram only shows one wire going to the positive side of the coil so not
sure what I have here.

Is the resistor wire just the one going from the fuse block to the coil and
if converted to a standard wire, would my coil have 12 volts to it?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a
name of winmail.dat] _______________________________________________

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9:01 AM
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From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Fri Sep 19 08:29:03 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 10:29:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition
References: <000001c919fb$4f6b0830$b1191718@computer>
Message-ID: <242C21087C2A4501A7CBCF9E071ECA7E@D9Z8J571>

Hi Jim,
    What I did with mine was so simple. I take it your installing a 
Pertronix unit. If I remember the color I believe it's a white with yellow 
stripe wire that comes from the starter relay adjacent to the fuse box that 
your looking for.  Check continuity to make sure you have the right one in 
case you lose sight of it in the harness etc. All you need to do if you're 
installing a 12 V Coil. ( I used a Lucas Sports Coil) is disconnect it from 
where it's plugged in now. (On the Starter Relay where it gets 12V only 
while your starters engaged) and plug it right nearby on a spare terminal on 
your Fuse Box that only get's power with your ignition is turned on. That's 
all there is to it. I've been running mine for almost 2 years without a 
problem. Starts instantly with my SU.
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
64 TR4
75 TR6 (Daily Driver)
64+65 Land Rover 109 Pickups

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "jim hearn" <jimhearn1 at comcast.net>
To: "'6-Pack ListServe'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 18, 2008 9:59 PM
Subject: [6pack] Trying to convert my '74 TR6 to electronic ignition


> To do this, I'm trying to locate the resistor wire that tames the positive
> side of the coil down to 6 volts.  I would like to use the coil that takes
> 12 volts in.  This TR6 has an old and fairly stock wiring harness and
> currently has two wires going to the positive side of the coil.  The 
> wiring
> diagram only shows one wire going to the positive side of the coil so not
> sure what I have here.
>
> Is the resistor wire just the one going from the fuse block to the coil 
> and
> if converted to a standard wire, would my coil have 12 volts to it?

From bregal at wi.rr.com  Fri Sep 19 13:28:58 2008
From: bregal at wi.rr.com (Brent)
Date: Fri, 19 Sep 2008 14:28:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] pdwa
Message-ID: <AF171C7C-C42A-4B5A-B85F-68D78791CED7@wi.rr.com>

Can anyone give me the particulars on the o-rings inside the pdwa. If  
I recall there are 2 sizes and at this point I don't know which size I  
have in my 74. Thought maybe I could buy both sizes before taking the  
bugger apart. It's leaking pretty bad.
Have tried several vendors for the repair kit but they're all on back- 
order. Anyone have one laying around I could buy?
Thanks
Brent

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Sat Sep 20 09:51:11 2008
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 08:51:11 -0700
Subject: [6pack] More questions on installing the elecronic ignition
Message-ID: <000001c91b38$b4d86990$b1191718@computer>

Where physically in the car is the starter relay located on a '74 TR6?  I
don't even see a reference to a starter relay in the Workshop Manual.  I see
a starter relay on the schematic on Bob's link but don't see one on the
original factory schematic.  I know Dan's system has it because I went to
the straight 12 volt on my other '74 TR6 that I rewired with Dan's system
but the car I am working on now is pretty much stock and the harness is in
rough but functional shape since the car only races.  Thanks, Jim

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name of winmail.dat]

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sat Sep 20 15:38:20 2008
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 20 Sep 2008 21:38:20 +0000
Subject: [6pack] More questions on installing the elecronic ignition
Message-ID: <092020082138.1557.48D56D4C000D94B80000061522064246139D01020108D206@comcast.net>

mine 74' and all stock are located on left side of engine bay by the fuse box and other solenoid box. its metal rectangular unit.

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "jim hearn" <jimhearn1 at comcast.net> 

> Where physically in the car is the starter relay located on a '74 TR6? I 
> don't even see a reference to a starter relay in the Workshop Manual. I see 
> a starter relay on the schematic on Bob's link but don't see one on the 
> original factory schematic. I know Dan's system has it because I went to 
> the straight 12 volt on my other '74 TR6 that I rewired with Dan's system 
> but the car I am working on now is pretty much stock and the harness is in 
> rough but functional shape since the car only races. Thanks, Jim 
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type application/ms-tnef which had a name 
> of winmail.dat] 
> _______________________________________________ 
> 
> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net 
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> 
> http://www.team.net/archive 
> 
> You are subscribed as j.honor at comcast.net 

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sun Sep 21 05:47:55 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 04:47:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] More questions on installing the elecronic ignition
Message-ID: <534931.99974.qm@web36104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jim
 
To add to this, the top one should be your horn relay the bottom one
should be the starter relay. That is unless your car has overdrive then the
bottom one would be for the overdrive.
 
Dale



----- Original Message ----
From: "j.honor at comcast.net" <j.honor at comcast.net>
To: jim hearn
<jimhearn1 at comcast.net>; 6-Pack ListServe <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Saturday, September 20, 2008 5:38:20 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] More questions on
installing the elecronic ignition

mine 74' and all stock are located on left
side of engine bay by the fuse box and other solenoid box. its metal
rectangular unit.

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "jim
hearn" <jimhearn1 at comcast.net> 

> Where physically in the car is the starter
relay located on a '74 TR6? I 
> don't even see a reference to a starter relay
in the Workshop Manual. I see 
> a starter relay on the schematic on Bob's
link but don't see one on the 
> original factory schematic. I know Dan's
system has it because I went to 
> the straight 12 volt on my other '74 TR6
that I rewired with Dan's system 
> but the car I am working on now is pretty
much stock and the harness is in 
> rough but functional shape since the car
only races. Thanks, Jim 
> 
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type
application/ms-tnef which had a name 
> of winmail.dat] 
>
_______________________________________________ 
> 
> Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html 
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net 
>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack 
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as j.honor at comcast.net
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are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Sep 21 07:52:31 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 08:52:31 -0500
Subject: [6pack] fuel pump
Message-ID: <000601c91bf1$4c3a0970$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

hi, all.

hope your fall is as pleasant as ours here in Texas!

is there a set of instructions for rebuilding a fuel pump anywhere?  i'm about
to do that.

if not, i'll document and post it.

thanks!

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Sun Sep 21 13:43:11 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 12:43:11 -0700
Subject: [6pack] pdwa
In-Reply-To: <AF171C7C-C42A-4B5A-B85F-68D78791CED7@wi.rr.com>
References: <AF171C7C-C42A-4B5A-B85F-68D78791CED7@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F85BD30@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Brent:

        Yank it out and go to the hardware store. The orings are a standard
size, but I could not tell you what the size is off hand.
        Be aware that some PDWAs use the cup seals, and they are not
rebuildable to the best of my knowledge. But the later ones, including the 74
are rebuildable. Caution: the orings need to be sized for a FIRM resistance to
movement on the piston. It is possible to get the orings sized down by one
size, and the piston will be a light press fit. This is too loose and will
eventually leak. When lubed with fluid, a firm pressure should be required to
move the piston. If in doubt, get both sizes of orings and try them at home.
They are very cheap and throwing away one set will cost you about $1.50. Use
the original orings as a guide, but realize that they can become deformed over
time and so may appear a tiny bit smaller than what you really need.

        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Brent
Sent: Friday, September 19, 2008 12:29 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] pdwa

Can anyone give me the particulars on the o-rings inside the pdwa. If
I recall there are 2 sizes and at this point I don't know which size I
have in my 74. Thought maybe I could buy both sizes before taking the
bugger apart. It's leaking pretty bad.
Have tried several vendors for the repair kit but they're all on back-
order. Anyone have one laying around I could buy?
Thanks
Brent
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Sep 21 20:48:09 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 22:48:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 2008 British Invasion
Message-ID: <8CAEA74C7EFA4A1-E14-111D@webmail-me10.sysops.aol.com>

 Hello,

This was the British Invasion weekend and unlike last year Saturday's weather was simply gorgeous.? The result was over 600 cars and many, many people.? As always there were some incredible cars and some unique personalities.? Some list members also showed up and it was nice to meet old friends and make some new ones.? 

One of our list members, Dave Friedlander from Gorham, Maine, was finally able to drive his own TR6 to the show after 12 + years of restoration.? His hard work did not go unrecognized as he was able to take 2nd place in the 74-76 TR6 class.? Several other list members in the same class weren't so happy for Dave and were seen with their keys out hovering around his car.? Check out the link below for a picture of a very happy TR6 owner.

I have uploaded a sampling of pictures at triumphowners.com/108 for those of you who would like to check out some of the show.? Open the link, scroll down and click on the link titled 2008 British Invasion.

Enjoy.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Mon Sep 22 10:06:44 2008
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 12:06:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] british invasion
Message-ID: <B91BE3351651461985F40F6DFC43C079@randyPC>

hi aaron,
thank you for sharing your pictures.
randy sandner

From Derek.deBastos at xmradio.com  Mon Sep 22 12:44:42 2008
From: Derek.deBastos at xmradio.com (de Bastos, Derek)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 14:44:42 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal
Message-ID: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first-of-probably-many time poster.

Quick intro:  A few months ago I started doing a full frame off on my
'76 TR6, which has been sitting fallow in my garage for the past 25
years (long sad story involving a broken laygear and a poor college kid
running out of money, parts and patience but being too
stubborn/sentimental and never poor enough to make him sell the car in
pieces).

I am currently down to a bare frame except for the front suspension.  My
first question:  How do get the coil springs out?

There is no hard stop on the front like there was on the trailing arms.
It appears that the shock absorber is the only thing keeping the front
spring in tension and therefore no way (that I can see) to keep it in
tension while I remove the bits.

Bentley et. al. say to use the weight of the car and a jack under the
spring pan, but obviously my bare frame doesn't have the weight.  I have
the coil compression tool (the threaded rod and end plate) but it can't
be used with the damper in place.  Interesting that Bentley makes no
mention about keeping tension in the spring to remove the damper, just
remove a couple of bolts and you're done.  I can't see how to do that
without putting a huge spring hole in my wall (and probably me).

Any tips?

Thanks,

Derek
'76 TR6
Laytonsville, MD

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep 22 12:58:08 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 18:58:08 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal
In-Reply-To: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
References: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B673D569@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Derek, assuming the upper and lower wishbones and vertical link are still in
place you should be able to remove the shock absorber and insert the threaded
bar in its place to compress the spring and allow you to remove the bottom pan
etc. I don't think the shock is holding this assembly under tension.

The jacking up under the spring pan etc to remove the road spring is all after
the shock has been removed and the threaded bar is a safer alternative to that
part of the procedure.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of de
Bastos, Derek
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 2:45 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first-of-probably-many time poster.

Quick intro:  A few months ago I started doing a full frame off on my
'76 TR6, which has been sitting fallow in my garage for the past 25
years (long sad story involving a broken laygear and a poor college kid
running out of money, parts and patience but being too
stubborn/sentimental and never poor enough to make him sell the car in
pieces).

I am currently down to a bare frame except for the front suspension.  My
first question:  How do get the coil springs out?

There is no hard stop on the front like there was on the trailing arms.
It appears that the shock absorber is the only thing keeping the front
spring in tension and therefore no way (that I can see) to keep it in
tension while I remove the bits.

Bentley et. al. say to use the weight of the car and a jack under the
spring pan, but obviously my bare frame doesn't have the weight.  I have
the coil compression tool (the threaded rod and end plate) but it can't
be used with the damper in place.  Interesting that Bentley makes no
mention about keeping tension in the spring to remove the damper, just
remove a couple of bolts and you're done.  I can't see how to do that
without putting a huge spring hole in my wall (and probably me).

Any tips?

Thanks,

Derek
'76 TR6
Laytonsville, MD

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 22 13:08:47 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:08:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal
In-Reply-To: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
References: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
Message-ID: <5A4D6CB0AA224733A8281FB444667953@bobspc>

Derek,
You need a spring compressor to get the front ones out. Some guys have made
their own but, as I understand it, it isn't your "run of the mill" threaded
rod. Here's the one that Moss sells.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=57865&SortOrde
r=1

The easiest way is to get the car on jack stands and then use a bottle jack
or even a floor jack to compress the spring as much as you can. Remove the
shock.  Put the rod through the spring and tighten it down and then lower
the jack. Now you can easily and safely remove the spring. I'm working from
memory so if I forgot a step, I'm sure someone will set us both straight.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of de Bastos, Derek
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 2:45 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first-of-probably-many time poster.

Quick intro:  A few months ago I started doing a full frame off on my
'76 TR6, which has been sitting fallow in my garage for the past 25 years
(long sad story involving a broken laygear and a poor college kid running
out of money, parts and patience but being too stubborn/sentimental and
never poor enough to make him sell the car in pieces).

I am currently down to a bare frame except for the front suspension.  My
first question:  How do get the coil springs out?

There is no hard stop on the front like there was on the trailing arms.
It appears that the shock absorber is the only thing keeping the front
spring in tension and therefore no way (that I can see) to keep it in
tension while I remove the bits.

Bentley et. al. say to use the weight of the car and a jack under the spring
pan, but obviously my bare frame doesn't have the weight.  I have the coil
compression tool (the threaded rod and end plate) but it can't be used with
the damper in place.  Interesting that Bentley makes no mention about
keeping tension in the spring to remove the damper, just remove a couple of
bolts and you're done.  I can't see how to do that without putting a huge
spring hole in my wall (and probably me).

Any tips?

Thanks,

Derek
'76 TR6
Laytonsville, MD
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1684 - Release Date: 9/22/2008
6:39 AM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 22 13:10:51 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:10:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal
In-Reply-To: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
References: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
Message-ID: <B37C14240E7648E8804089428FEF5A6D@bobspc>

Oops.... And here's the "How To" link for using the spring compressor:

http://www.mossmotors.com/graphics/products/PDF/386-895.pdf


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of de Bastos, Derek
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 2:45 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first-of-probably-many time poster.

Quick intro:  A few months ago I started doing a full frame off on my
'76 TR6, which has been sitting fallow in my garage for the past 25 years
(long sad story involving a broken laygear and a poor college kid running
out of money, parts and patience but being too stubborn/sentimental and
never poor enough to make him sell the car in pieces).

I am currently down to a bare frame except for the front suspension.  My
first question:  How do get the coil springs out?

There is no hard stop on the front like there was on the trailing arms.
It appears that the shock absorber is the only thing keeping the front
spring in tension and therefore no way (that I can see) to keep it in
tension while I remove the bits.

Bentley et. al. say to use the weight of the car and a jack under the spring
pan, but obviously my bare frame doesn't have the weight.  I have the coil
compression tool (the threaded rod and end plate) but it can't be used with
the damper in place.  Interesting that Bentley makes no mention about
keeping tension in the spring to remove the damper, just remove a couple of
bolts and you're done.  I can't see how to do that without putting a huge
spring hole in my wall (and probably me).

Any tips?

Thanks,

Derek
'76 TR6
Laytonsville, MD
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.0/1684 - Release Date: 9/22/2008
6:39 AM

From Derek.deBastos at xmradio.com  Mon Sep 22 13:15:50 2008
From: Derek.deBastos at xmradio.com (de Bastos, Derek)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:15:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B673D569@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B673D569@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A474@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>

Thanks Stan.

One more bit of info I forgot to add:  I can move, by hand, the whole
vertical and upper wishbone without moving the spring pan (there is slop
in the pivot bolt/trunnion where I can see this movement).  This tells
me all the spring tension is held entirely by the lower wishbone/spring
pan.  I do not see any hard stop, so I concluded that the shock is
holding the tension.

Also, when I loosened the top nut of the damper, the nut didn't ride up
the damper bolt, the damper bolt sunk deeper into the frame.  This makes
me further convinced that the shock is holding the spring in tension.

Normally, if it isn't the shock that is supposed to take up the spring
force, what is (i.e., what is the hard stop)?

Thanks,

Derek
'76 TR6
Laytonsville, MD


-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com]
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 2:58 PM
To: de Bastos, Derek; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: Front spring removal

Derek, assuming the upper and lower wishbones and vertical link are
still in place you should be able to remove the shock absorber and
insert the threaded bar in its place to compress the spring and allow
you to remove the bottom pan etc. I don't think the shock is holding
this assembly under tension.

The jacking up under the spring pan etc to remove the road spring is all
after the shock has been removed and the threaded bar is a safer
alternative to that part of the procedure.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of de
Bastos, Derek
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 2:45 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal

Hi all,

Long time lurker, first-of-probably-many time poster.

Quick intro:  A few months ago I started doing a full frame off on my
'76 TR6, which has been sitting fallow in my garage for the past 25
years (long sad story involving a broken laygear and a poor college kid
running out of money, parts and patience but being too
stubborn/sentimental and never poor enough to make him sell the car in
pieces).

I am currently down to a bare frame except for the front suspension.  My
first question:  How do get the coil springs out?

There is no hard stop on the front like there was on the trailing arms.
It appears that the shock absorber is the only thing keeping the front
spring in tension and therefore no way (that I can see) to keep it in
tension while I remove the bits.

Bentley et. al. say to use the weight of the car and a jack under the
spring pan, but obviously my bare frame doesn't have the weight.  I have
the coil compression tool (the threaded rod and end plate) but it can't
be used with the damper in place.  Interesting that Bentley makes no
mention about keeping tension in the spring to remove the damper, just
remove a couple of bolts and you're done.  I can't see how to do that
without putting a huge spring hole in my wall (and probably me).

Any tips?

Thanks,

Derek
'76 TR6
Laytonsville, MD

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Sep 22 13:22:33 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:22:33 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal
In-Reply-To: <5A4D6CB0AA224733A8281FB444667953@bobspc>
References: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
	<5A4D6CB0AA224733A8281FB444667953@bobspc>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809221518380.12948@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 22 Sep 2008, Bob Danielson wrote:

> Derek,
> You need a spring compressor to get the front ones out. Some guys have made
> their own but, as I understand it, it isn't your "run of the mill" threaded
> rod. Here's the one that Moss sells.

[stuff deleted]

You do not need to use anything special as far as the rod goes. YOU 
should, however, make sure the threads are lubed so your don't work-harden 
the threads over time. However, most folks probably do this job two or 
four times (once or twice per side) and properly lubed, you won't have any 
problems with the threaded rod.

At the top of the rod, you can use two nuts locked together and a pair of 
vice-grips to stabilze things while you tighten loosen the lower nuts...

But this is an easy do it yourself tool. I have at least three. Not sure 
why other than I probably borrowed one years ago and never returned it ot 
something. I've more than made up for that by doing front end repairs on 
others' cars over the years. :-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Sep 22 13:25:45 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 15:25:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Front spring removal
In-Reply-To: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A474@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
References: <F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A45E@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B673D569@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<F90BA4B713575F469D7BFF86F49C62D6F7A474@ITWEVS01C.xmradio.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809221523110.12948@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

The shock provides the lower bump stop for the front suspension, so your 
observation is correct. If you continue to loosen the upper shock nut, the 
tension on the lower spring pan will eventually ease as the pan hangs up 
on the frame. The assembly will not fly aprat, however, until you remove 
the lower spring pan bolts. In your case you WANT a spring compressor for 
this job because you have a later car (which have stiffer springs) and the 
lower spring pan will be in tension unless you use a spring compressor.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Mon Sep 22 14:39:31 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:39:31 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Sadly, she's got to go
Message-ID: <05ec01c91cf3$51935310$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Listers, this is just to let it be known that my much-loved fuel-injected Triumph BIG SIX saloon 
(sedan) has hit ebay today with the following reference number 300260902536. I'd really love it if a 
Triumph enthusiast bought her but I've not been able to use her at all this year and the same will 
apply next year too. So, sadly we've come to a parting of the ways.

Jonmac

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From tr6.guy at verizon.net  Mon Sep 22 15:21:09 2008
From: tr6.guy at verizon.net (Gary Klein)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:21:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] pdwa
Message-ID: <48D80C45.6000303@verizon.net>

Vance, Brett,

Sorry to disagree with you Vance but any old o-ring sold in the hardware 
store is most likely NOT made out of Ethylene Propylene (EP).  EP is 
approved for contact with brake fluid.  Never use butyl o-rings for an 
application that mixes with brake fluid.  They will disintegrate.

Below is a post I made to the Triumphs list back in 1999.  I see 
American Packing and Gasket still has a web site.

The size I listed fit my '75.  Since my initial search and purchase in 
'99, I've come to learn that there are seems to be an alternate size of 
oring used by Triumph.  Check your size then look on their website.  
They now call their material EPR.  EPR 70 is what you want.

Good Luck,
Gary
'75 TR6
-------------------------

Last Fall, I purchased a quantity of O-Rings and offered them to list
members but unfortunately, they're all gone.  I still get requests from
time to time so I suspect that like me, you can get rid of them in short
order by offering them to fellow list members, too.  They're not
expensive, less than $.50 each if I remember.  You can order a quantity
($5 minimum plus about $7 postage) from:

American Packing and Gasket Co.
1-800-888-5223
www.apandg.com

The proper part number is E70010
description: 568-010 EPR 70 O-Rings

I've included my earlier post where I indicated the specs for the O-Rings.

Good Luck,

Gary
Severn, MD  Digest
'75 TR6

----------

Gary Klein wrote:
>
> Fellow Scions,
>
> The specs on these rings are:
>
> Cross-Section (width) of 0.070" +or- 0.003" and an Inner Diameter range
> from Minimum of .234", Mean of 0.239" and a Maximum of 0.244.  These
> O-Rings differ than those indicated in the VTR website article.  I have
> a later model PDWA which is a bit different as it does not have the
> circlips as shown there.
  

-------------

>Date: Sun, 21 Sep 2008 12:43:11 -0700
>From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
>Subject: Re: [6pack] pdwa
>To: Brent <bregal at wi.rr.com>, "6pack at autox.team.net"
>	<6pack at autox.team.net>
>
>        Brent:
>
>        Yank it out and go to the hardware store. The orings are a standard
>size, but I could not tell you what the size is off hand.
>        Be aware that some PDWAs use the cup seals, and they are not
>rebuildable to the best of my knowledge. But the later ones, including the 74
>are rebuildable. Caution: the orings need to be sized for a FIRM resistance to
>movement on the piston. It is possible to get the orings sized down by one
>size, and the piston will be a light press fit. This is too loose and will
>eventually leak. When lubed with fluid, a firm pressure should be required to
>move the piston. If in doubt, get both sizes of orings and try them at home.
>They are very cheap and throwing away one set will cost you about $1.50. Use
>the original orings as a guide, but realize that they can become deformed over
>time and so may appear a tiny bit smaller than what you really need.
>
>        Vance

From bregal at wi.rr.com  Mon Sep 22 16:22:44 2008
From: bregal at wi.rr.com (Brent)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:22:44 -0500
Subject: [6pack] pdwa
Message-ID: <65FAB5AF-BD99-4E5A-8C10-F2E106F17C0A@wi.rr.com>

Gary, Vance and anyone else paying attention to this thread, came  
across this during my "research." Viton or EDPM is what you want those  
o-rings made of. There is a nice chart here:

http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm

Another list member has offered to send a couple he had laying around  
so I I think I'll not have to order a bag of 100 which is the smallest  
quantity another vendor offered. They were pretty cheap tho, I think  
$4.50 for the bag of 100.
Thanks to all who responded.
Brent

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 22 18:35:54 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 20:35:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] British Invasion Pictures
Message-ID: <55A52ECB05DE46879C06CE024C951BE4@bobspc>

I just updated my site with 6 pages of pictures. I had to break it up so
that they would load quickly on slower connections. Here they are:
 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BritishInvasion2008.htm

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Sep 22 19:10:19 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 01:10:19 +0000
Subject: [6pack] British Invasion Pictures
In-Reply-To: <55A52ECB05DE46879C06CE024C951BE4@bobspc>
References: <55A52ECB05DE46879C06CE024C951BE4@bobspc>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B673D610@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Nice job Bob. Wasn't that Morris 1000 traveler cool ?. It has a Toyota twin
cam engine that was once a transverse engine but has been turned 90 degrees
and mated to a tranny bellhousing. The wooden trailer was very unusual and
complemented the woodwork of the Traveler plus the wooden ski's and wooden
sled on the roof rack. The license plate on the back is "WAS A TRE"

Dave and Patti really do have a GR8 TR6 and the paint is very pretty with that
subtle metal flake. They did very well against some 30 or so other TR6's in
their class.

Btw don't tell my wife I took a friend :-)

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:36 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] British Invasion Pictures

I just updated my site with 6 pages of pictures. I had to break it up so
that they would load quickly on slower connections. Here they are:

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BritishInvasion2008.htm

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Sep 22 19:55:38 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:55:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] British Invasion Pictures
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B673D610@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <55A52ECB05DE46879C06CE024C951BE4@bobspc>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7257B673D610@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <48D84C9A.1060301@maine.rr.com>

Thanks for the kind words, Stan. What a GREAT field of cars! The setting 
couldn't have
been better. Bob did a great job organizing the photos, too!

Not sure what I'll do to outdo this year's effort for next year's 
British Invasion -- but I've
already got the Goodparts adjustable TA brackets at the top of my winter 
to-do list!

Dave
'74 GR8 TR6
TBI + A-type OD


Foster, Stan wrote:

>Nice job Bob. Wasn't that Morris 1000 traveler cool ?. It has a Toyota twin
>cam engine that was once a transverse engine but has been turned 90 degrees
>and mated to a tranny bellhousing. The wooden trailer was very unusual and
>complemented the woodwork of the Traveler plus the wooden ski's and wooden
>sled on the roof rack. The license plate on the back is "WAS A TRE"
>
>Dave and Patti really do have a GR8 TR6 and the paint is very pretty with that
>subtle metal flake. They did very well against some 30 or so other TR6's in
>their class.
>
>Btw don't tell my wife I took a friend :-)
>
>Stan
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
>[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
>Danielson
>Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 8:36 PM
>To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] British Invasion Pictures
>
>I just updated my site with 6 pages of pictures. I had to break it up so
>that they would load quickly on slower connections. Here they are:
>
>http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BritishInvasion2008.htm
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Sep 22 21:27:35 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 21:27:35 -0600
Subject: [6pack] pdwa
References: <65FAB5AF-BD99-4E5A-8C10-F2E106F17C0A@wi.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BEE212200DBC4539A3CAB9E2BDAB1D13@rolofson>

That may have been me.  I got the 100 lot and probably still have about 92 of
them left if you want some.  Self-addressed envelope and you can try em...no
guarantees, no warrantees, no promises or otherwise intended or implied...got
that from some lawyers that represented Nelson.  But they worked for me for
the last few years.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Brent
  To: 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, September 22, 2008 4:22 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] pdwa


  Gary, Vance and anyone else paying attention to this thread, came
  across this during my "research." Viton or EDPM is what you want those
  o-rings made of. There is a nice chart here:

  http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm

  Another list member has offered to send a couple he had laying around
  so I I think I'll not have to order a bag of 100 which is the smallest
  quantity another vendor offered. They were pretty cheap tho, I think
  $4.50 for the bag of 100.
  Thanks to all who responded.
  Brent
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Sep 23 05:03:50 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 04:03:50 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] fuel pump
In-Reply-To: <BEE212200DBC4539A3CAB9E2BDAB1D13@rolofson>
Message-ID: <855106.74396.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

hi, all.
 
i'm renovating a failed fuel pump.  i see the kit has a pair of valves, and i
see that they are placed in the "top" of the fuel pump "base."  i see that
they are in opposite ways, which makes sense.
 
should i replace them while i'm there?  how do i get them out?  how about
putting the replacements in?  and where does that little round gasket that
comes in the kit go?
 
thanks!  i'm trying to document all this so i can post a fuel pump renovation
page.

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Mon Sep 22 16:29:47 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Mon, 22 Sep 2008 17:29:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] fuel pump
Message-ID: <380-220089122222947640@earthlink.net>

Oliver,

A while back I put my account of the rebuild process on Photo Bucket.  Look
here to see if you can use the information.

http://s200.photobucket.com/albums/aa68/gmark_01/Fuel%20Pump/?action=view&cu
rrent=e9be68b7.pbw

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN




.
> i'm renovating a failed fuel pump.  i see the kit has a pair of valves,
and i
> see that they are placed in the "top" of the fuel pump "base."  i see that
> they are in opposite ways, which makes sense.
>  
> should i replace them while i'm there?  how do i get them out?  how about
> putting the replacements in?  and where does that little round gasket that
> comes in the kit go?

From Lfm614 at aol.com  Tue Sep 23 18:28:12 2008
From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:28:12 EDT
Subject: [6pack] fuel pump
Message-ID: <cd7.3e1a60cf.360ae39c@aol.com>

You know there was a link on the 6PACK forums to a rebuild a member  did with 
pictures and details, lots of good stuff on the forums if you  search.  Need 
to check it out, follow the link
 
_http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=6551&highlight=fuel+pump
_ 
(http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=6551&highlight=fuel+pump)  
 
Lou
 
 
In a message dated 9/23/2008 6:04:49 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

hi,  all.

i'm renovating a failed fuel pump.  i see the kit has a pair  of valves, and i
see that they are placed in the "top" of the fuel pump  "base."  i see that
they are in opposite ways, which makes  sense.

should i replace them while i'm there?  how do i get them  out?  how about
putting the replacements in?  and where does that  little round gasket that
comes in the kit go?

thanks!  i'm  trying to document all this so i can post a fuel pump  
renovation
page.
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  lfm614 at aol.com





**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial 
challenges?  Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and 
calculators.      (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)

From ehenningsen at triad.rr.com  Tue Sep 23 18:32:23 2008
From: ehenningsen at triad.rr.com (Eric Henningsen)
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:32:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
Message-ID: <DAD713C3E19F4F929030D0974144C8A8@Office>

Looking for information on issues surrounding use of DOT 5 silicone fluid for
brakes and clutch. I have been running for 4 years since I rebuilt my TR6 and
only recently encountered some problems with my clutch binding during
engagement. I thought the clutch master might be at issue and found some light
scoring  in two places on the cylinder bore. When I spoke to British Parts NW
they indicated that use of silicone fluid voids the warranty on master
cylinders due to degradation of the aluminum body and poor lubrication
characteristics. What is the recommendation on this?

Eric
Carolina_Six
76 TR6

From Jsut4fun at aol.com  Wed Sep 24 08:26:07 2008
From: Jsut4fun at aol.com (Jsut4fun at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 10:26:07 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Metal Tags on Firewall
Message-ID: <d59.2a7e7216.360ba7ff@aol.com>

I have an original, unrestored 1976 TR6 and have a question about the small  
metal plates with serial numbers mounted on the passenger side firewall.   One 
of my plates is painted the body color while the other plate is the metal  
finish.  Is this correct to have one of the plates painted?
Thanks,
Ken
CF55382



**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial 
challenges?  Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and 
calculators.      (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Wed Sep 24 08:34:50 2008
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 10:34:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Metal Tags on Firewall
In-Reply-To: <d59.2a7e7216.360ba7ff@aol.com>
References: <d59.2a7e7216.360ba7ff@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20080924103404.046808d8@216.7.163.243>

Ken,

My '76 is the same way.... top is bare metal, bottom is body color.

It's all good!

- Aldwyn


At 10:26 AM 9/24/2008, Jsut4fun at aol.com wrote:
>I have an original, unrestored 1976 TR6 and have a question about the small
>metal plates with serial numbers mounted on the passenger side 
>firewall.   One
>of my plates is painted the body color while the other plate is the metal
>finish.  Is this correct to have one of the plates painted?
>Thanks,
>Ken
>CF55382
>
>
>
>**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial
>challenges?  Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips 
>and
>calculators.      (http://www.walletpop.com/?NCID=emlcntuswall00000001)
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as aldwyn at sylvancircle.org

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Sep 24 09:20:45 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 08:20:45 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
In-Reply-To: <DAD713C3E19F4F929030D0974144C8A8@Office>
References: <DAD713C3E19F4F929030D0974144C8A8@Office>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F8CB440@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Eric:

        I have been running DOT5 for a couple of years now with no issues, but
the mileage on my car is admittedly low. I must say that I would rather take
my chances with hydraulic issues rather than watch my paint dissolve into a
mass of goo where there is a leak. But so far no regrets or problems.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Eric Henningsen
Sent: Tuesday, September 23, 2008 5:32 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid

Looking for information on issues surrounding use of DOT 5 silicone fluid for
brakes and clutch. I have been running for 4 years since I rebuilt my TR6 and
only recently encountered some problems with my clutch binding during
engagement. I thought the clutch master might be at issue and found some
light
scoring  in two places on the cylinder bore. When I spoke to British Parts NW
they indicated that use of silicone fluid voids the warranty on master
cylinders due to degradation of the aluminum body and poor lubrication
characteristics. What is the recommendation on this?

Eric
Carolina_Six
76 TR6

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Sep 24 09:37:56 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 11:37:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
Message-ID: <8079136.390601222270676532.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web17-z02>

Eric;

At the encouragement of local TR owner friends, i switched to DOT 5 after my PDWA leaked DOT 3 onto a new paint job!!  Grr-r-r-r. Hence, the "goo" which Vance refers-to. So, after three months of summer operationusing DOT 5, no issues to report since making the switch. AND, it's a cool purple color!!  :- )

Dave
'74-Six w/TBI + A-type OD

---- Eric Henningsen <ehenningsen at triad.rr.com> wrote: 
> Looking for information on issues surrounding use of DOT 5 silicone fluid for
> brakes and clutch. I have been running for 4 years since I rebuilt my TR6 and
> only recently encountered some problems with my clutch binding during
> engagement. I thought the clutch master might be at issue and found some light
> scoring  in two places on the cylinder bore. When I spoke to British Parts NW
> they indicated that use of silicone fluid voids the warranty on master
> cylinders due to degradation of the aluminum body and poor lubrication
> characteristics. What is the recommendation on this?
> 
> Eric
> Carolina_Six
> 76 TR6
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Wed Sep 24 11:51:29 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 17:51:29 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
Message-ID: <092420081751.20495.48DA7E21000AA0FC0000500F2200737478CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>

I am in the midst of rebuilding the brakes on my 49 Mayflower. What is the best way to clean out the old brake fluid. All the lines are disconnected and the new replacement wheel cylinders and MC are on the bench waiting to be installed. Is there a cleaner I can spray into the lines and then with pressure from a air compressor push it through. I was thinking brake cleaner but I seem to remember some time back, the use of alchohol? Anyone?

If anyone on the list is crazy enough to own a Mayflower like me, I would like to be able to discuss off line, upgrades and how too's.

From JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com  Wed Sep 24 12:15:22 2008
From: JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com (Dombey, John R.)
Date: Wed, 24 Sep 2008 11:15:22 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
In-Reply-To: <mailman.5.1222279201.12753.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.5.1222279201.12753.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B27788FF2B36BA4CAE1F896B2FEA4F9F01020C2B@0461-its-exmb03.us.saic.com>

Eric,

I've been running the purple stuff since early 2003 with no issues that
I can attribute to the fluid.  The clutch master wept just a little from
day one, but it was a unit that I had rebuilt during my restoration, so
I suspect either marginal seals or poor workmanship on my part.  I
replaced it with a new one last year and everything has been fine since.
I too was worried about paint damage with DOT 3, and at the time the
paint was fresh and shiny...

OTOH, Greg at BPNW is pretty knowledgeable - he's never steered me
wrong, and has saved my bacon a couple of times.  The poor lubrication
comment seems strange - isn't silicone inherently slippery stuff?

John
'69 TR6

-----Original Message-----
Message: 3
Date: Tue, 23 Sep 2008 20:32:23 -0400
From: "Eric Henningsen" <ehenningsen at triad.rr.com>
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <DAD713C3E19F4F929030D0974144C8A8 at Office>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

Looking for information on issues surrounding use of DOT 5 silicone
fluid for
brakes and clutch. I have been running for 4 years since I rebuilt my
TR6 and
only recently encountered some problems with my clutch binding during
engagement. I thought the clutch master might be at issue and found some
light
scoring  in two places on the cylinder bore. When I spoke to British
Parts NW
they indicated that use of silicone fluid voids the warranty on master
cylinders due to degradation of the aluminum body and poor lubrication
characteristics. What is the recommendation on this?

Eric
Carolina_Six
76 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Sep 25 10:43:38 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 09:43:38 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
In-Reply-To: <B27788FF2B36BA4CAE1F896B2FEA4F9F01020C2B@0461-its-exmb03.us.saic.com>
References: <mailman.5.1222279201.12753.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<B27788FF2B36BA4CAE1F896B2FEA4F9F01020C2B@0461-its-exmb03.us.saic.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F8CBB38@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        John:

        I don't think that the controversy will ever die. I will say that the
DOT standards require backwards compatibility for the most part, and if the
lubricating properties were markedly inferior, it does not seem likely that
DOT would approve the stuff. But that is just my opinion...
        I can say that I converted the TR6 brakes and clutch to DOT 5 when I
restored my car, and so I never had to flush out the old stuff because
everything including the brakes lines were new.
        On my mini (NON TR6 CONTENT ALERT!!!) I simply flushed with DOT 5
(expensive, but I did not know what else to do) until the brake fluid was
purple out of the bleed nipples, and never looked back. The rear slave
cylinders were new, and the MC was rebuilt, but the brakes lines still had
DOT4 in them. So far no issues, and the brakes really rock. Firm pedal, etc.
        As always, your mileage may vary. But I have been very happy with the
conversion.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Dombey, John R.
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 11:15 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Silicone Fluid

Eric,

I've been running the purple stuff since early 2003 with no issues that
I can attribute to the fluid.  The clutch master wept just a little from
day one, but it was a unit that I had rebuilt during my restoration, so
I suspect either marginal seals or poor workmanship on my part.  I
replaced it with a new one last year and everything has been fine since.
I too was worried about paint damage with DOT 3, and at the time the
paint was fresh and shiny...

OTOH, Greg at BPNW is pretty knowledgeable - he's never steered me
wrong, and has saved my bacon a couple of times.  The poor lubrication
comment seems strange - isn't silicone inherently slippery stuff?

John
'69 TR6

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu Sep 25 12:03:41 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 11:03:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F8CBB38@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <592589.14097.qm@web33508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I echo what Vance says. I converted my brakes to silicone in 2005 and have
never regretted it. I've been luck I guess because I've had no leaks, but
WHEN it does leak the paint will stay where it's supposed to be.
 
Jim

--- On Thu, 9/25/08, Navarrette, Vance <vance.navarrette at intel.com> wrote:

From: Navarrette, Vance <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Silicone Fluid
To: "Dombey, John R." <JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com>, "6pack at autox.team.net"
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Date: Thursday, September 25, 2008, 11:43 AM

        John:

        I don't think that the controversy will ever die. I will say that
the
DOT standards require backwards compatibility for the most part, and if the
lubricating properties were markedly inferior, it does not seem likely that
DOT would approve the stuff. But that is just my opinion...
        I can say that I converted the TR6 brakes and clutch to DOT 5 when I
restored my car, and so I never had to flush out the old stuff because
everything including the brakes lines were new.
        On my mini (NON TR6 CONTENT ALERT!!!) I simply flushed with DOT 5
(expensive, but I did not know what else to do) until the brake fluid was
purple out of the bleed nipples, and never looked back. The rear slave
cylinders were new, and the MC was rebuilt, but the brakes lines still had
DOT4 in them. So far no issues, and the brakes really rock. Firm pedal, etc.
        As always, your mileage may vary. But I have been very happy with the
conversion.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Dombey, John R.
Sent: Wednesday, September 24, 2008 11:15 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Silicone Fluid

Eric,

I've been running the purple stuff since early 2003 with no issues that
I can attribute to the fluid.  The clutch master wept just a little from
day one, but it was a unit that I had rebuilt during my restoration, so
I suspect either marginal seals or poor workmanship on my part.  I
replaced it with a new one last year and everything has been fine since.
I too was worried about paint damage with DOT 3, and at the time the
paint was fresh and shiny...

OTOH, Greg at BPNW is pretty knowledgeable - he's never steered me
wrong, and has saved my bacon a couple of times.  The poor lubrication
comment seems strange - isn't silicone inherently slippery stuff?

John
'69 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Sep 25 17:54:07 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 19:54:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] rear fenders
Message-ID: <200809251954.08062.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Trying to locate a set of decent rear fenders for a 72.

Not having much luck and after removing the fenders on the project I can see 
why.

Has anyone installed fiberglass fenders like the ones offered by 
http://www.prodbodies.com/index.html ?

I am a long way off from needing them but looking for ideas.

Thanks,

Bob

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Thu Sep 25 18:21:46 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 17:21:46 -0700
Subject: [6pack] rear fenders
In-Reply-To: <200809251954.08062.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD53E@MAIN.RSC.local>

Bob,

I have one (a fiberglas fender) on my 69 that I have installed
temporarily until I get around to doing the holy grail restoration.  I
also have a right rear fiberglas fender that is not installed.  I
acquired both and a front set along with my car and haven't had the time
to put them on ebay to sell.  They are a fair replacement for the
original and differ in look primarily at the leading edge where the fold
of the original steel is difficult to match.  Probably not an issue for
racers.  The other thing is that these have some surface cracks in the
gel coat and whether these would remain or reappear after a skim of
bondo is unknown. Can't say how well the Probodies product holds up.

On my six I had in high school, I had fiberglas front fender.  In one
incident, it was struck in the school parking lot.  With images of
shattered fiberglas in my mind as I exited the car to look, I was
pleasantly surprised to see that it had withstood the impact without
damage.

If I were investing a lot of money in a paint job, I would stick with
steel.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6




Hello,

Trying to locate a set of decent rear fenders for a 72.

Not having much luck and after removing the fenders on the project I can
see
why.

Has anyone installed fiberglass fenders like the ones offered by
http://www.prodbodies.com/index.html ?

From dc_bruin at hotmail.com  Thu Sep 25 18:29:45 2008
From: dc_bruin at hotmail.com (Dwayne Cooper)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 17:29:45 -0700
Subject: [6pack] rear fenders
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD53E@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <200809251954.08062.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD53E@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <BLU145-W144E2D6AA0D60D4252699AF5470@phx.gbl>

I had good luck picking up a rear fender on ebay.  Any panel you put on your
car will need to be worked (whether it's fiberglass, steel, NOS or repro) so a
good used steel one is a great place to start.

Dwayne

>
> Hello,
>
> Trying to locate a set of decent rear fenders for a 72.
>
> Not having much luck and after removing the fenders on the project I can
> see
> why.
>
> Has anyone installed fiberglass fenders like the ones offered by
> http://www.prodbodies.com/index.html ?
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
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From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Sep 25 18:34:44 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 25 Sep 2008 20:34:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 2008 Founders Day Pictures
Message-ID: <8CAED86CE575918-13E8-183E@webmail-da11.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Everyone,

This past July fellow lister Rick Patton and I drove our TR6's up to Paris Hill, Maine in order to take in the 30th Annual Founders Day.? Although there were many activities, for us the Robert Bahre collection of automobiles was the main attraction.? I have upload images of many of the cars that are in the collection.? There are only a few LBC's and no Triumph's but many unique cars in wonderful condition.? If you have an interest check them out at www.triumphowners.com/108.? Scroll down to get to the Founders Day Poster Picture and enjoy.

Incidentally, I do have additional pictures of some Packards, Dusenbergs and Mercedes that I didnt upload if anyone is interested in them specifically.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Sep 26 08:56:05 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 10:56:05 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] rear fenders
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD53E@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD53E@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0809261053340.26366@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 25 Sep 2008, Robert N. Clark wrote:

[stuff deleted]

> If I were investing a lot of money in a paint job, I would stick with
> steel.

OR invest the money in painting equipment. A new spray and it looks 
perfect ('till it cracks, gets door-dinged,whatever).

I've had 'glass and steel. I like 'glass 'cause it can take some shots. 
Steel is okay except for rust. Plus you can lean on steel (either 
literally or figuratively when you use a buffer).

> Bob Clark
> '69 TR6

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com  Fri Sep 26 11:41:23 2008
From: bdischer.lists at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 13:41:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rally Benefits Kids Battling Serious Illness
Message-ID: <8B78691E-1083-4F04-A3FC-0FD9D6D71A42@blakedischer.com>

Hi everyone,

This Saturday, 33 fellow British car enthusiasts will set off on one
of three 800-mile legs of America's British Reliability Run, the
annual two-day British car rally that has raised more than $130,000
for children's charities since 2003.

Each entrant is responsible for soliciting money from friends,
enemies, family, and coworkers, and each team's goal is to raise $500.
All proceeds will go to three very deserving and highly-rated
children's charities. Be assured that 100% of all contributions will
go to charity; each team will personally bear all travel costs
including lodging, zipties, food, duct tape, and spare parts.

In Alabama, teams are raising money for Magic Moments which fulfills
the non-medical wishes of chronically ill Alabama children, providing
them an opportunity to turn away from illness and suffering  if only
for a moment  and feel what it is like to just be a kid again. For
Michigan, teams are driving to provide "camperships" to children who
otherwise might not be financially able to attend The Hemophilia
Foundation of Michigan's "Camp Bold Eagle." For Pennsylvania, we're
helping the Gia Nicole Angel Fund, whose mission is to enhance the
daily functioning of a child with special needs and his or her family
by awarding assistance through the purchase of a specific item or
items. Read more about all three charities here.

We're all very busy so let's get right to the point. If you still have
a few dollars in the tax deduction cookie jar earmarked for deserving
groups such as these, your donation would really be appreciated,
however small. You can securely use your credit card to make a
donation right now, just go to http://www.abrr.org and click on Donate
Now (in the upper right-hand corner). You can indicate which charity
should receive your donation by choosing the corresponding state's run.

If you care to learn more about the charities, see the routes, or
peruse some of the varied and outstanding examples of British cars
entered to date, ranging from a beautiful 1949 Bentley Mk VI to a 2007
Aston Martin Vantage (with a bunch of Triumphs all over the place!),
please checkout the ABRR website at http://www.abrr.org.


In gratitude,

Blake Discher, Event Founder

From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Sep 26 11:53:42 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 10:53:42 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hot,Special 74 TR6 for sale
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0809261053j5c7263aay3ae34eb014557235@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry to bomb the lists, but thought someone of my list compatriots might be
interested:

*Special Hot '74 TR6 for sale: Toyota Trans, Nissan Diff, Webers*



Time to sell my beloved "Triosan" as the race car gods must be fed.  I am
posting it on the Triumph lists prior to going to Craigslist and e-Bay.  Car
is in Seattle.



I have spent over $6000 just to get my former track day car back to street
standards.  This special car includes:

A new enginefresh rods,crank prep, rods, pistons and bearings.  The cam is
a 292 degree with 4/10" lift at the valve.

New valves, some head porting,10:1 compression, new hardened rocker shaft.

Triple DCOE 40 Weber carbs with 34 mm chokes.  Will include a set of 30 mm
chokes and at least $300 of main, air and idle jets.

Electromotive crank fired ignition with electronically adjustable ignition
timing

Electronic tach.

Jet coated Pacesetter header into a single 2.5" exhaust with Flowmaster 50
muffler (a little noisy for street usebut soundss great!)

Hi torque starter motor

Newly cored stock radiator

A new paint job -white over previous white.

A new professionally installed convetable top.

New high performace EuroTA 195x50 front tire with Kuhmo Ecsta 205x60 rears.

A Herman Van Den Akker Toyota 5 speed conversion with linear throw out
bearing

A Goodparts 4.08:1 limited slip Nisssan differential

Dual Tilton master cylinders with balance bar

New brakes and stainless brake lines

Spax adjustable front shocks, KYB rear shock conversion

Nylatron bushings all around.  New stiffer front and rear spings.

Autopower roll bar with additional vertical and diagonal bar

5 Point Sparco seat belts

OMP racing seats with sliders.  Original seats available.

Fuel cell with electric fuel pump and battery in trunk.



The car is not perfect, but it is hot and runs very wellprobably 150 HP at
the wheels and it handles well.  It does not have, but for track or
autocross use probably needs a rear sway bar.  Does have an uprated front
bar.  The horn is not connected but I have the parts.  There is no fuel
guage.  Only one blinker functions but I am working on fixing that problem.



Pictures are available at:

http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/HotSpecialTR6ForSale#<http://picasaweb.go
ogle.com/Triosan/HotSpecialTR6ForSale>



I am asking $8000 for it.


--
Chuck Arnold

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Sep 26 14:49:20 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 21:49:20 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Rally Benefits Kids Battling Serious Illness
References: <8B78691E-1083-4F04-A3FC-0FD9D6D71A42@blakedischer.com>
Message-ID: <02c801c92019$5a813c20$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Blake Discher wrote:
> This Saturday, 33 fellow British car enthusiasts will set off on one
> of three 800-mile legs of America's British Reliability Run, the
> annual two-day British car rally that has raised more than $130,000
> for children's charities since 2003.

Blake, thanks again for your acknowledgement at the bottom of this year's website. I wish you all a 
lot of fun, fine weather, no breakdowns and even more money raised for three very deserving causes.

You know how I'd like to see your excellent idea develop?

As the All British Reliability Run now seems to be involving three separate states in three 
different runs, why not encourage *all* the VTR affiliated clubs in all the States to do a similar 
run on the same date in the years to come. Quite apart from the fun element, just think of the money 
that could be raised!!!!! After all, you're the VTR President, so they ought to listen to you :)

Isn't this why we own the cars we do? To drive them and enjoy doing that with other like-minded 
people with a very tangible overall objective. C'mon you guys and gals. Badger your club committees 
and get them to think this was their idea for 2009 - and if they're not too sure, they're more than 
welcome to join up with me in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive. Details and outline route at 
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

Cheers, Jonmac 

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Fri Sep 26 18:03:57 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 26 Sep 2008 17:03:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 found for sale in Ukiah, CA
Message-ID: <200809270003.m8R03vio029986@upsa-web103.ofoto.com>

During these difficult economic times, there are bargains to be had.  While camping this summer, I woman saw my open-book triumph logo tattoo and asked about it.  I found out she also had a TR250 that she was trying to sell.  She wanted $25K, but has recently called me saying she now is selling it for $15K.  She is a seamstress and did much of the apholstery, so it is not completely original inside.  The car itself is very complete and appears to be damage free and is definitely rust free.  I have her contact info and told her I would alert the lists I'm part of to see if there is any interest.  No official financial interest here, but I will probably get some small finders fee for helping her sell it.  
Andy Packard


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From salva57 at optonline.net  Sat Sep 27 19:42:18 2008
From: salva57 at optonline.net (salva57 at optonline.net)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 01:42:18 +0000 (GMT)
Subject: [6pack] fuel pump rebuild kit
Message-ID: <e3bdf1056a77d.48dee0fa@optonline.net>

A word of advice concerning the fuel pump rebuild kits available. All kits are not created equal even if  purchased from the same vendor, one of the big 3 in my case. It took 2 attempts with 2 kits from the same vendor to get it right, the difference being in the rubber seal for the top cover which leaked and almost doubled in size overnight, the one being replaced was harder and not rubbery, and the diaphragm which leaked after a few weeks because of streching and bubbling. This diaphragm unlike the one it replaced, was made of rubber, and the better one had a canvas feel and look to it much like the one it replaced. I'm sure it would have leaked after just a few days had I used the car more. If your parts look like what I described don't waste your time.
Sal.
www.triumphowners.com/381 

From lindquistse at charter.net  Sun Sep 28 19:16:13 2008
From: lindquistse at charter.net (Steve Lindquist)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 21:16:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Diagnosing fuel pump problems
Message-ID: <000201c921d0$f74c3290$6401a8c0@computerroom>

List,

I went to start up my TR250 today, it started and idled rough and I parked
it out in my driveway.  Once it was outside, it started to pour and of
course I couldn't  start it again.   I have been smelling gas for the last
week when the car is in the garage.  Engine is stock.   I swapped the usual
electrical suspects ( rotor, cap, points look ok)  and I can crank forever
and the engine won't catch.  Carbs professionally rebuilt two years ago.

 

We drove home from Maine two weeks ago in a deluge, and I haven't started
the car since then.  

 

Is there way to test the fuel pump?  Disconnect the feed to the carbs and
measure the flow rate?   How much fuel flow  should I expect with some
vigorous engine cranking?  Other possible issues? 

 

Thanks in advance for those who have been there ahead of me,

 

Steve Lindquist

68 TR250 CD231L 

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Sep 28 20:23:58 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 28 Sep 2008 22:23:58 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Diagnosing fuel pump problems
Message-ID: <ce5.3e314b92.3611963e@aol.com>

Before you do anything else, give the dipstick the "sniff test" to see if  
there is fuel in the crankcase.  If the diaphragm fails the fuel can, and  will, 
go to the crankcase.  If it passes the "sniff test"  disconnect before the 
forward carb.  Have a can ready to catch the fuel but  do not expect much 
pressure, as there isn't much.  
In the top of your fuel pump there are two valves that keep the fuel  moving 
in the correct direction from the tank to the carbs and will not permit  it to 
go the other way.  Make sure those are working properly.  
Have you already changed the fuel filter?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Looking for simple solutions to your real-life financial 
challenges?  Check out WalletPop for the latest news and information, tips and 
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From apackard68 at comcast.net  Mon Sep 29 15:57:48 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 14:57:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
Message-ID: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>

With Triumphest on Thursday, I'm in the home stretch getting things together with my car.  The Prestige Autowood dash was worth every penny!  Note the accent wood piece where the heater and choke knobs are.  I have to run the fuel line and a couple brake lines tonight with hopes of starting the car tomorrow for the first time since Nov 17.  An alignment on Wednesday and then as many final details as I can get through before the events start in Lake Tahoe on Friday. I'm sure I'll be working on in in the parking lot of the hotel on Thursday night.  Door panels, kick panels and wheel arch vinal will probably not make the list of must have items for this weekend.  I have a too-long list of things to work through, but hearing the engine soon will help.  I installed a new throttle cable set up from Ratco and finally ran the tubing for the oil recovery canister seen next to the battery.   


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
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If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 29 16:34:08 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 18:34:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
In-Reply-To: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>
References: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <923155CD4AD9439B840A2D172B3DCD02@bobspc>

Is that accent piece something new that Randy is offering with his dash? Is
it as thick as the dash itself, how does it attach and did you have any fit
problems with the controls? I like it! The car's looking great too. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of apackard68 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 5:58 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together

With Triumphest on Thursday, I'm in the home stretch getting things together
with my car.  The Prestige Autowood dash was worth every penny!  Note the
accent wood piece where the heater and choke knobs are.  I have to run the
fuel line and a couple brake lines tonight with hopes of starting the car
tomorrow for the first time since Nov 17.  An alignment on Wednesday and
then as many final details as I can get through before the events start in
Lake Tahoe on Friday. I'm sure I'll be working on in in the parking lot of
the hotel on Thursday night.  Door panels, kick panels and wheel arch vinal
will probably not make the list of must have items for this weekend.  I have
a too-long list of things to work through, but hearing the engine soon will
help.  I installed a new throttle cable set up from Ratco and finally ran
the tubing for the oil recovery canister seen next to the battery.   


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=
en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the
Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to
view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite
photos.

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------------------------------------------------------------




If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly
into your browser:
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en_US
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Sep 29 16:50:49 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 17:50:49 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
References: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <002e01c92285$d2cc5110$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

cute co-driver!

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <apackard68 at comcast.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 4:57 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together


> With Triumphest on Thursday, I'm in the home stretch getting things 
> together with my car.  The Prestige Autowood dash was worth every penny! 
> Note the accent wood piece where the heater and choke knobs are.  I have 
> to run the fuel line and a couple brake lines tonight with hopes of 
> starting the car tomorrow for the first time since Nov 17.  An alignment 
> on Wednesday and then as many final details as I can get through before 
> the events start in Lake Tahoe on Friday. I'm sure I'll be working on in 
> in the parking lot of the hotel on Thursday night.  Door panels, kick 
> panels and wheel arch vinal will probably not make the list of must have 
> items for this weekend.  I have a too-long list of things to work through, 
> but hearing the engine soon will help.  I installed a new throttle cable 
> set up from Ratco and finally ran the tubing for the oil recovery canister 
> seen next to the battery.
>
>
> You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
> Just click on View Photos to get started.
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=en_US
> If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
> if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've
> signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want
> and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.
>
> Enjoy!
> Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
> an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can
> join the Gallery for free.
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp
>
> Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Sep 29 18:08:24 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 20:08:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
In-Reply-To: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>
References: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <BEF06954C4404C85B9B1975FDA59F751@Robert>

Great job, looking fantastic! I thought the foil side goes down?

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Sep 29 18:50:53 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 29 Sep 2008 20:50:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
In-Reply-To: <BEF06954C4404C85B9B1975FDA59F751@Robert>
References: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>
	<BEF06954C4404C85B9B1975FDA59F751@Robert>
Message-ID: <72A15A452DA94686BAF7A8842D18A92B@bobspc>

Sticky side goes down....... It has a peel off backing.  


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 8:08 PM
To: apackard68 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 coming together

Great job, looking fantastic! I thought the foil side goes down?
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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incoming message.
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7:25 PM

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep 30 00:02:25 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 06:02:25 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV4B0C4C85BE88063BBD08AF4430@phx.gbl>

Andrew---Looks like it's almost there! See you in Tahoe.  (Who's your little helper)?

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: apackard68 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 2:57 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together

With Triumphest on Thursday, I'm in the home stretch getting things together with my car.  The Prestige Autowood dash was worth every penny!  Note the accent wood piece where the heater and choke knobs are.  I have to run the fuel line and a couple brake lines tonight with hopes of starting the car tomorrow for the first time since Nov 17.  An alignment on Wednesday and then as many final details as I can get through before the events start in Lake Tahoe on Friday. I'm sure I'll be working on in in the parking lot of the hotel on Thursday night.  Door panels, kick panels and wheel arch vinal will probably not make the list of must have items for this weekend.  I have a too-long list of things to work through, but hearing the engine soon will help.  I installed a new throttle cable set up from Ratco and finally ran the tubing for the oil recovery canister seen next to the battery.   


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
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and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

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Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
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------------------------------------------------------------
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Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada

------------------------------------------------------------




If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
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From apackard68 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 30 01:20:16 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 00:20:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
In-Reply-To: <BEF06954C4404C85B9B1975FDA59F751@Robert>
Message-ID: <20080930072027.0C8AF187655@autox.team.net>

Fortunately, there's only one sticky side and that goes down.  It's
primarily for sound deadening with a secondary function of thermal
protection.  It's second skin damplifier, in case anyone is interested.  

-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Liam Gannon [mailto:trsix74 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 5:08 PM
To: apackard68 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] TR250 coming together

Great job, looking fantastic! I thought the foil side goes down?

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 30 01:24:03 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 00:24:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV4B0C4C85BE88063BBD08AF4430@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20080930072414.1F494187655@autox.team.net>

My son, Landon, will be attending his second Triumphest this week.  Look for
his Triumph Travelers name tag!
Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] 
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 11:02 PM
To: apackard68 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 coming together

Andrew---Looks like it's almost there! See you in Tahoe.  (Who's your little
helper)?

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: apackard68 at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, September 29, 2008 2:57 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together

With Triumphest on Thursday, I'm in the home stretch getting things together
with my car.  The Prestige Autowood dash was worth every penny!  Note the
accent wood piece where the heater and choke knobs are.  I have to run the
fuel line and a couple brake lines tonight with hopes of starting the car
tomorrow for the first time since Nov 17.  An alignment on Wednesday and
then as many final details as I can get through before the events start in
Lake Tahoe on Friday. I'm sure I'll be working on in in the parking lot of
the hotel on Thursday night.  Door panels, kick panels and wheel arch vinal
will probably not make the list of must have items for this weekend.  I have
a too-long list of things to work through, but hearing the engine soon will
help.  I installed a new throttle cable set up from Ratco and finally ran
the tubing for the oil recovery canister seen next to the battery.   


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=
en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.




------------------------------------------------------------
The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team
Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada

------------------------------------------------------------




If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=
en_US
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From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Sep 30 07:09:20 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 13:09:20 +0000
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension
Message-ID: <BLU118-W40FAD8917FAAF9AC5B01CF8E430@phx.gbl>

Team,
My brother has just had new mid-grade rear springs and a tube shock conversion
installed on his 73-Six. The shock conversion was the type that bolts right on
to the existing mount points, I forget the name. His right rear tire is still
squatting a bit. It's noticable following him, and with a bubble level on the
center caps, it appears the other three are just right, but this one is out at
the bottom. If I tried to state that with technical tire terms, I'd probably
use the wrong term. Any tips on what may cause this or how to adjust?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Sep 30 07:23:09 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 13:23:09 +0000
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W40FAD8917FAAF9AC5B01CF8E430@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU118-W40FAD8917FAAF9AC5B01CF8E430@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72629F6B6005@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Sloan, it sounds like you are describing a camber issue with one of the rear
wheels. Normally these are near vertical to the naked eye although they do
have a slight negative camber (the top of the tire leans into the car) to the
tune of half a degree to one degree, more if they have been messed with.

On a normal car the camber is governed by the trailing arm bracket type and
orientation and can be messed up with worn trailing arm bushes.

Is this what you are describing, the bottom of one rear tire is sticking out
more than the other and this happen only after the recent spring/shock
installation  ?

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im
sloane
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 9:09 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension

Team,
My brother has just had new mid-grade rear springs and a tube shock
conversion
installed on his 73-Six. The shock conversion was the type that bolts right
on
to the existing mount points, I forget the name. His right rear tire is still
squatting a bit. It's noticable following him, and with a bubble level on the
center caps, it appears the other three are just right, but this one is out
at
the bottom. If I tried to state that with technical tire terms, I'd probably
use the wrong term. Any tips on what may cause this or how to adjust?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Sep 30 08:17:24 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 07:17:24 -0700
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W40FAD8917FAAF9AC5B01CF8E430@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU118-W40FAD8917FAAF9AC5B01CF8E430@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279572F91F46A@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Sloane:

        From the phrase "is still squatting a bit" I take it that it was
squatting before the conversion, and after the conversion the issue is still
present to some degree. I take it perhaps you hoped that new springs would
resolve it...?
        My guess is that your rear suspension bushings are shot. This is an
extremely common failure, one that is virtually inevitable even on low mileage
cars. Here is a hyperlink to an article on replacing them and adjusting the
camber: http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Suspension/AdjRS/AdjRS.htm

        Cheers,

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
im sloane
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 6:09 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension

Team,
My brother has just had new mid-grade rear springs and a tube shock
conversion
installed on his 73-Six. The shock conversion was the type that bolts right
on
to the existing mount points, I forget the name. His right rear tire is still
squatting a bit. It's noticable following him, and with a bubble level on the
center caps, it appears the other three are just right, but this one is out
at
the bottom. If I tried to state that with technical tire terms, I'd probably
use the wrong term. Any tips on what may cause this or how to adjust?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 30 08:24:22 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 07:24:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
In-Reply-To: <200809292157.m8TLvnlt022314@upsa-web123.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <768028.95733.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Andy:
 
What is the material on the tranny tunnel cover? Is that another Second Skin
product?
 
Jim

--- On Mon, 9/29/08, apackard68 at comcast.net <apackard68 at comcast.net> wrote:

From: apackard68 at comcast.net <apackard68 at comcast.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, September 29, 2008, 4:57 PM

With Triumphest on Thursday, I'm in the home stretch getting things together
with my car.  The Prestige Autowood dash was worth every penny!  Note the
accent
wood piece where the heater and choke knobs are.  I have to run the fuel line
and a couple brake lines tonight with hopes of starting the car tomorrow for
the
first time since Nov 17.  An alignment on Wednesday and then as many final
details as I can get through before the events start in Lake Tahoe on Friday.
I'm sure I'll be working on in in the parking lot of the hotel on
Thursday night.  Door panels, kick panels and wheel arch vinal will probably
not
make the list of must have items for this weekend.  I have a too-long list of
things to work through, but hearing the engine soon will help.  I installed a
new throttle cable set up from Ratco and finally ran the tubing for the oil
recovery canister seen next to the battery.


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=e
n_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.




------------------------------------------------------------
The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team
Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada

------------------------------------------------------------




If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=e
n_US
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http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue Sep 30 12:46:15 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 11:46:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Question about rear suspension
Message-ID: <28127.47076.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Sloane,
 
If your brother's car already has new springs and new trailing arm bushings
and the wheel still has excess negative camber you may want to consider an
aluminum packing piece (moss part #675-065).  They used to make these in
varying thicknesses though Moss only lists one part number.  These packing
pieces essentially lengthen the spring which will reduce the negative camber. 
This is not as elegant a solution as the one Vance suggested with the Buckeye
Triumph article but it is simple and easy to do.  Guess my shadetree mechanic
tendency is beginning to show.
 
Mike Lunsford 1970 TR 6   

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Sep 30 13:04:19 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:04:19 GMT
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV6CFE8041B990AF30A8319F4430@phx.gbl>

Sloan---It's important that the rear trailing arm brackets are oriented correctly, to get the camber "even". With new springs already installed, we can assume that you are not up against a spring sag. Tthe new shocks should not come into play here. 
A worn (inside) trailing arm bushing will allow the wheel to tilt in more at the top. A worn outer bushing will cause just the opposite. 
A distance packing piece of the right thickness could correct the camber, but might also cause an uneven ride height, so it's good to premeasure both sides from fender lip to the ground before starting to change things.
R. Good sells adjustable brackets for the trailing arms that could go a long way into correcting this. For now, be sure that the "notches" on the t/a brackets are the same on both sides on each of the four brackets. (Sometimes you can get the result you want to flipping them around).
Use Brian Lanaway's chart, to save time.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: im sloane
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 6:09 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension

Team,
My brother has just had new mid-grade rear springs and a tube shock conversion
installed on his 73-Six. The shock conversion was the type that bolts right on
to the existing mount points, I forget the name. His right rear tire is still
squatting a bit. It's noticable following him, and with a bubble level on the
center caps, it appears the other three are just right, but this one is out at
the bottom. If I tried to state that with technical tire terms, I'd probably
use the wrong term. Any tips on what may cause this or how to adjust?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008
6pack at autox.team.net
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http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Tue Sep 30 18:17:50 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 20:17:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] body off frame experience.
Message-ID: <200809302017.51171.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

All,

Last weekend as I was removing stuff from my latest project and was hauling it 
down to the cellar for storage, I had that strange feeling I was Radar 
O'Relily from Mash in that episode where he was dismantling a jeep one part 
at a time and shipping it to Iowa.

Any one else ever get that feeling?

The parade of parts is over for now as the body is off the frame.

As soon as I get some good weather so I can get the 3 and the bikes out of the 
garage, I then can get the engine out so I can go to town on the frame during 
the winter and spring.

SOFARSOGOOD.

Bob

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 30 20:50:05 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 19:50:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
In-Reply-To: <768028.95733.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20081001025016.F054D187673@autox.team.net>

That's actually the Moss sound deadening felt glued on.  Left over from a
previous interior redeux.

Andy

 

  _____  

From: Jim Jones [mailto:jimjcmo at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 7:24 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; apackard68 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 coming together

 


Andy:

 

What is the material on the tranny tunnel cover? Is that another Second Skin
product?

 

Jim

--- On Mon, 9/29/08, apackard68 at comcast.net <apackard68 at comcast.net> wrote:

From: apackard68 at comcast.net <apackard68 at comcast.net>
Subject: [6pack] TR250 coming together
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Monday, September 29, 2008, 4:57 PM

With Triumphest on Thursday, I'm in the home stretch getting things together
with my car.  The Prestige Autowood dash was worth every penny!  Note the
accent
wood piece where the heater and choke knobs are.  I have to run the fuel
line
and a couple brake lines tonight with hopes of starting the car tomorrow for
the
first time since Nov 17.  An alignment on Wednesday and then as many final
details as I can get through before the events start in Lake Tahoe on
Friday.
I'm sure I'll be working on in in the parking lot of the hotel on
Thursday night.  Door panels, kick panels and wheel arch vinal will probably
not
make the list of must have items for this weekend.  I have a too-long list
of
things to work through, but hearing the engine soon will help.  I installed
a
new throttle cable set up from Ratco and finally ran the tubing for the oil
recovery canister seen next to the battery.   
 
 
You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=
en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.
 
Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp
 
Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.
 
 
 
 
------------------------------------------------------------
The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team
Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada
 
------------------------------------------------------------
 
 
 
 
If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.bbqzr5ej&x=0&y=-x008kj&localeid=
en_US
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
 
http://www.team.net/archive
 
You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Tue Sep 30 21:19:22 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 30 Sep 2008 20:19:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots
Message-ID: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>

By request, here are some quickly taken photos of underneath my TR250.  I had the custom exhaust done with a one-in, two out Magnaflow straight through muffler with tail pipes that mimic the stock look.  I'm guessing the sound will be a little aggressive, but I have to start it to know!  I didn't think ahead enough on the exhaust mounting, so it ended up too close to the driver's side of the car, forcing me to mount my fuel pump on the other rail.  Brake lines are on the left, secured to the Ratco frame using ties.  I had the oil pan powder coated, so I took a couple of pics of that, too.  And yes, it's sitting on my EZCar lift from Boytcho Manev.  Glad to see folks are looking at the pics.  
Andy


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.azlvq0sr&x=0&y=-lilkt8&localeid=en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.




------------------------------------------------------------
The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team
Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada

------------------------------------------------------------




If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.azlvq0sr&x=0&y=-lilkt8&localeid=en_US