[6pack] new clutch

[Sally or Dick Taylor]

Peter---For sure, if the fork is securely welded to the operating shaft, there should be no issues with the pin breaking. Likely just as true when using the double pin method. Eventually, the outboard bushings will wear, and the shaft will have to be cut to remove it, to replace these bushings.

Resurface the flywheel if you can see any wear, as sometimes a change in the clutch disc OD will try riding on the "unused" part of the flywheel, causing slippage and grief.
Many owners like to lighten the 'wheel at this time. 

Some grease on the front cover is OK. I would wipe off what's there and use the grease supplied with the Gunst bearing and sleeve. Be sure this front cover has not worn to the point that will let the new sleeve sag. I like to see no more than .005 difference between the cover OD and the sleeve ID. Others say more clearance is necessary to keep these parts from  "sticking". I have found too much clearance leads to this bearing to run off center to the clutch, which can lead to squealling, or chirping.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 1:22 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] new clutch

Since the trans is readily accessible right now, I have decided to  renew the 
clutch on my six even though it worked fine, smooth, no slip and  not too 
heavy. Not knowing what I would find when I opened it up, I picked up a  slightly 
used Laycock Sheffield pressure plate and disk. I had the disk relined.  I 
also picked up a new TR4 cross shaft with grease fittings, larger TR4  bushings, 
new fork secured with split pin and modified heavy duty tapered  pin. I also 
bought a Gunst throw out bearing.
 
Now that I opened it up, I find that the car has the early Borg &  Beck 
pressure plate and disk measuring  .270", and a RHP TOB. Both the  TOB and the 
fingers on the plate show quite noticeable wear. The  surprise is that the clutch 
fork is welded to the cross shaft. The shaft rotates  easily and has very 
little up and down movement.
 
I have decided to leave the cross shaft with fork welded to it in the bell  
housing seeing that it is working fine and "if it ain't broke don't fix  it".  
I am also putting in the slightly used Laycock pressure plate  and relined 
disk and Gunst TOB. Any comments as to am I doing the right thing  before I put 
it all back together? I don't want to have to take it apart again  after it is 
on the road.
 
Should I have the flywheel resurfaced? Also, there was a lot of grease  where 
the TOB sleeve slides on the mainshaft. Is this necessary?
 
TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
TR6 '69
 
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