From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Wed Oct  1 05:47:46 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 04:47:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] body off frame experience.
In-Reply-To: <200809302017.51171.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <758573.74090.qm@web43140.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Bob,

I(we) feel your pain.

Keep motivated on the frame/suspension...remember, it
won't fix itself.  Try to do something either every
day or every other day...even if small.  Set a time
table to be done.

I say this and I look at a chassis that's done & a
body that's close to painting & no money...something
to keep in mind as well!

Cheers,

Todd Bermudez
cd198l

--- Bob <yellowtr at adelphia.net> wrote:

> All,
> 
> Last weekend as I was removing stuff from my latest
> project and was hauling it 
> down to the cellar for storage, I had that strange
> feeling I was Radar 
> O'Relily from Mash in that episode where he was
> dismantling a jeep one part 
> at a time and shipping it to Iowa.
> 
> Any one else ever get that feeling?
> 
> The parade of parts is over for now as the body is
> off the frame.
> 
> As soon as I get some good weather so I can get the
> 3 and the bikes out of the 
> garage, I then can get the engine out so I can go to
> town on the frame during 
> the winter and spring.
> 
> SOFARSOGOOD.
> 
> Bob

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu Oct  2 11:08:47 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 17:08:47 +0000
Subject: [6pack] question about rear suspension
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV6CFE8041B990AF30A8319F4430@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV6CFE8041B990AF30A8319F4430@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W408CAD14875E1AF5A1D0868E3D0@phx.gbl>

Thanks all for replies about the rear suspension problem. It's apparently the
trailing arm bushings and we've learned a great deal about it all this week. I
think for the time being he's going to put a spacer back on the right side. It
will get fixed the right way later.

Classified Ad content below.

He has the "Blind Moose Shock Conversion Kit".
www.blindmoosefab.com/rear_shock.htm, and purchased the stiff Corvette shocks.
The shock number is KYB KG450. He says the 'one piece' kit from the big 3 use
this same shock. They were too stiff for him and he decided to put Monroe 5819
on it and is very happy with it now (except for the camber problem).

He mounted the KYB shocks and test drove about 10 miles, so can't return them.
(I told him they'd be too stiff :) If anybody is interested in buying them,
please reply to me off list. Good deal. Offered here prior to ebay.

thanks,
Sloane :)
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows Mobile brings your life togetherat home, work, or on the go.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093182mrt/direct/01/

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Oct  2 13:35:41 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 15:35:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ignition wires
Message-ID: <28423390.440101222976141662.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web28-z02>

Hey List!

Has anyone ever crimped their own terminal ends on a set of high performance "universal" ignition wires? There's an MSD or an Accel set I'd like to get (red wires) but I'm not sure how difficult it is to get a good quality crimp on the dizzy ends (8.5 mm wire). Since it's a "universal" set I'd have to cut them to length and crimp  the terminals, myself

Thanks for any insights/experiences.

Dave
'74-Six

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct  2 14:59:48 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 16:59:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <28423390.440101222976141662.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web28-z02>
References: <28423390.440101222976141662.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web28-z02>
Message-ID: <FC41BD43C9EF43BABBEF0713E1F836D2@bobspc>

I've never done it myself but here's a few How To links:

http://www.stealth316.com/2-msd-ignwires.htm

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/1022/index.html

http://www.chevyhiperformance.com/techarticles/93998_spark_plug_wire_crimper
/index.html

http://reviews.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Sparkplug-Crimping_W0QQugidZ1000000000005
8487QQ_trksidZp4506.c0.m17

 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Thursday, October 02, 2008 3:36 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Ignition wires

Hey List!

Has anyone ever crimped their own terminal ends on a set of high performance
"universal" ignition wires? There's an MSD or an Accel set I'd like to get
(red wires) but I'm not sure how difficult it is to get a good quality crimp
on the dizzy ends (8.5 mm wire). Since it's a "universal" set I'd have to
cut them to length and crimp  the terminals, myself

Thanks for any insights/experiences.

Dave
'74-Six
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
Version: 8.0.169 / Virus Database: 270.7.5/1703 - Release Date: 10/2/2008
7:46 AM

From Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov  Fri Oct  3 12:30:19 2008
From: Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov (Ron Landis)
Date: Fri, 03 Oct 2008 14:30:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Whistling Throwout Bearing
Message-ID: <48E62C7A.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov>

Listers

I installed a Toyo Throwout bearing and it whistles.  I replaced the clutch
(Borg-Werner) and now when I rest my foot on the clutch it whistles/whines.
When fully depressed it stops.  People have said I should expect this.  Should
I?

Thanks

Ron

*********************************************************************
Ron Landis, Director Engineering/Utility Services Division
Dept. of Public Works - Kent County, MI
PH 616-336-4370    FX 616-336-3338   Cell 616-299-0540
*********************************************************************
This message has been prepared on resources owned by Kent County, MI.
It is subject to the Acceptable Use Policy of Kent County.

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Oct  3 12:42:21 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2008 14:42:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Whistling Throwout Bearing
References: <48E62C7A.3505.0045.0@kentcountymi.gov>
Message-ID: <003601c92587$c6295520$0300a8c0@Desktop>

YES.....and STOP resting your foot on it


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ron Landis" <Ron.Landis at kentcountymi.gov>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 03, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: [6pack] Whistling Throwout Bearing


> Listers
>
> I installed a Toyo Throwout bearing and it whistles.  I replaced the 
> clutch
> (Borg-Werner) and now when I rest my foot on the clutch it 
> whistles/whines.
> When fully depressed it stops.  People have said I should expect this. 
> Should
> I?
>
> Thanks
>
> Ron
>
> *********************************************************************
> Ron Landis, Director Engineering/Utility Services Division
> Dept. of Public Works - Kent County, MI
> PH 616-336-4370    FX 616-336-3338   Cell 616-299-0540
> *********************************************************************
> This message has been prepared on resources owned by Kent County, MI.
> It is subject to the Acceptable Use Policy of Kent County.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Fri Oct  3 15:36:44 2008
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2008 17:36:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA electrical connector
Message-ID: <93A9565598EB431297E2F3278EF26A00@jerrysoffice>

Anyone find a easily procured substitute for the stock two-conductor connector
for the PDWA? Mine's toast.

Jerry Shaw
'74 TR6 MallFrom yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sun Oct  5 12:03:09 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 14:03:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] valve cover question
Message-ID: <200810051403.09975.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

Is it a good idea to have a 72 TR6 valve cover powder coated maybe in a nice 
silver?

Or should it just be painted with silver engine paint?

Just asking.

Bob

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun Oct  5 17:14:03 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 19:14:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Early Tach Needed
Message-ID: <B5176DF4298647A1A440AD73F7722119@TRGUY>

Anyone have a nice used early tach that they would be willing to sell for me
to convert to an electronic tach for elec. ignition.

Please email off list. Thanks in advance.

Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sun Oct  5 21:12:25 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 20:12:25 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Some Triumphest photos
Message-ID: <200810060312.m963CPjC021839@upsa-web109.ofoto.com>

Due to rain, the Funcours (car show) part of Triumphest was held in the garage.  I'll tel more of the story later, but my car didn't get moving until 1:45 on Friday afternoon.
Andy


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.2nwdm3k3&x=0&y=u5gugj&localeid=en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.




------------------------------------------------------------
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Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada

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If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.2nwdm3k3&x=0&y=u5gugj&localeid=en_US

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sun Oct  5 21:31:54 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Sun, 5 Oct 2008 20:31:54 -0700
Subject: [6pack] A couple youtube videos of my first drives @ Triumphest
Message-ID: <20081006033212.31AFC18788B@autox.team.net>

I just got my car going forward under its own power at T-phest on Friday at
1:45.  Unfortunately, this was about 15 minutes after the autocross course
was taken down (the schedule said 3:00!, but that's a rant I've gotten
over).  

 

Here are a couple videos of my first passenger and a sample of the exhaust
note from the Magnaflow exhaust.  I don't know what it's like cruising on
the freeway yet, but here's a moderate and then hard acceleration example.

Andy

CD6746L

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBV7WBlR3LQ           exhaust note     

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DyIzPHNoMI              first passenger

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  6 04:51:12 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 10:51:12 +0000
Subject: [6pack] valve cover question
In-Reply-To: <200810051403.09975.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200810051403.09975.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W40A01B93080385993A695F8E390@phx.gbl>

I had good 'original' results with Dupli-color Engine Enamel color DE1650,
Cast Aluminum. Same on air breather.

Sloane :)
69-Six> > Is it a good idea to have a 72 TR6 valve cover powder coated maybe
in a nice > silver?>
_________________________________________________________________
Want to do more with Windows Live? Learn 10 hidden secrets from Jamie.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Oct  6 05:34:07 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2008 11:34:07 +0000
Subject: [6pack] valve cover question
Message-ID: <100620081134.27617.48E9F7AF0003AEA900006BE12205886172CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>

In my experience, both can be good, pending how much you want to spend. But the big difference will be in thr preperation. To paint, you need only to clean up and prep the outer surface, place it on a flat surface and spray, preferably with high heat temp paint.

With powder coating it will be neccersary to remove the steel wire packing and completelt degrease the inside. Glass beading alone will not work. Mutiple rinses are required to remove anything and all that will be detrimental to the finish. Only once all is gone, then you can powdercoat and bake. The big issue is, when it is being baked. If there is any oil left anywhere it will show up during the baking process and the powder coating will not work. My knowledge comes from a friend who had a powder coating business and did mine. 12 years later, I still listen to the issues he had doing mine.

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Mon Oct  6 07:03:55 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 09:03:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] valve cover question
References: <100620081134.27617.48E9F7AF0003AEA900006BE12205886172CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <DFF3A43D984C476CB22710E686995B66@D9Z8J571>

       For one thing, don't powder coat the inside of your Rocker Cover. 
They have ways of masking? (Not Tape) to avoid it. You don't
want it on the Gasket mating surface either. In my opinion Powder Coating 
such a flexible sheet metal pieces with a brittle coating
will lead to problems and chip the first time you tighten it down. I'm 
having trouble deciding on Powder Coating an Intake Manifold
on my 65 Land Rover 4-Cyl. to 2-Barrel Weber Manifold. I know it's been done 
on TR6 Manifolds, but the mass and it bolted up directly to
the Exhaust Manifold concerns me. Intake is Aluminum and the differential 
expansion and excessive heat to the Intake I think will crack my Powder
Coating on the LR Intake.
    If you go forward with the Powder Coating process don't worry about 
glass beading the inside of your Rocker Cover. Just degrease it so it won't 
smoke
during the process. You don't want the inside coated anyway, as soon as it 
comes off, it will be heading downstream. Please let us know how You make 
out.
I'd opt for an Alloy Cover, I've had great luck with mine. If it's going 
under the watchful eyes of Concourse judges it won't pass, but either should 
Powder Coating.
YMMV!
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
64 TR4
75 TR6 (daily driver)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] valve cover question


> In my experience, both can be good, pending how much you want to spend. 
> But the big difference will be in thr preperation. To paint, you need only 
> to clean up and prep the outer surface, place it on a flat surface and 
> spray, preferably with high heat temp paint.
>
> With powder coating it will be neccersary to remove the steel wire packing 
> and completelt degrease the inside. Glass beading alone will not work. 
> Mutiple rinses are required to remove anything and all that will be 
> detrimental to the finish. Only once all is gone, then you can powdercoat 
> and bake. The big issue is, when it is being baked. If there is any oil 
> left anywhere it will show up during the baking process and the powder 
> coating will not work. My knowledge comes from a friend who had a powder 
> coating business and did mine. 12 years later, I still listen to the 
> issues he had doing mine.

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Oct  6 09:06:13 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 06 Oct 2008 15:06:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] valve cover question
Message-ID: <100620081506.24627.48EA2965000DF8AA000060332209224627CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>

No mention was made to doing the inside. It is the oil that is in the crevacies, which is most difficult to remove hinders the powder coating process because when it gets hot it thins out  and spreads creating issues with adherance. Just taping off with the speacial tape is not enough you need to have it perfect to be of any use. If the powder coating cracks, flakes or chips off, it has not been prepped correctly. Powdercoating can be flexible. I have a set of springs that have been powdercaoted on my TR3 and they do not flake, crack or chip! I have made a color coded brake drum set up with powder coated springs for a display and they dont chip, crack or flake either.

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Oct  6 11:46:32 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 13:46:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?
Message-ID: <12974694.218731223315193016.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web25-z02>

Hey list;

Some of your browse through TR6 stuff on eBay, from time to time. On the list of parts amnd sellers is a guy who typically sell the "kidney pads" into which many lister mount their radio speakers. he sell them with  NO holes or with 4" holes. I asked him what about mounting six inch speakers -- how could someone accomplish that with a four inch dia. mounting hole? He answered: "Can't be done, use smaller speakers!" I know I have seen many folks with six inch speakers mounted in their tranny-side "kidney" panels -- did you buy panels with NO holes then cut your own to suit?

Thanks for any insights.

Dave
'74-Six
Maine

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Oct  6 11:43:22 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 12:43:22 -0500
Subject: [6pack] valve cover question
References: <100620081134.27617.48E9F7AF0003AEA900006BE12205886172CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
	<DFF3A43D984C476CB22710E686995B66@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <007b01c927db$cb53fd10$1ea7a8c0@Ranteer.local>

i'll chime in here.  we had my son's intake manifold powdercoated, and the 
first water leak or maybe it was oil stained it.

maybe it was the powdercoating, i dunno.

my rcommendation is ceramic coating, like what they do on exhaust manifolds. 
pretty impermeable, polishable, and available in many colors.

however, if its for a valve cover, i'd spend the $$ on an alloy cover . . .


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
To: <trsix74 at comcast.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 8:03 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] valve cover question


>       For one thing, don't powder coat the inside of your Rocker Cover.
> They have ways of masking? (Not Tape) to avoid it. You don't
> want it on the Gasket mating surface either. In my opinion Powder Coating
> such a flexible sheet metal pieces with a brittle coating
> will lead to problems and chip the first time you tighten it down. I'm
> having trouble deciding on Powder Coating an Intake Manifold
> on my 65 Land Rover 4-Cyl. to 2-Barrel Weber Manifold. I know it's been 
> done
> on TR6 Manifolds, but the mass and it bolted up directly to
> the Exhaust Manifold concerns me. Intake is Aluminum and the differential
> expansion and excessive heat to the Intake I think will crack my Powder
> Coating on the LR Intake.
>    If you go forward with the Powder Coating process don't worry about
> glass beading the inside of your Rocker Cover. Just degrease it so it 
> won't
> smoke
> during the process. You don't want the inside coated anyway, as soon as it
> comes off, it will be heading downstream. Please let us know how You make
> out.
> I'd opt for an Alloy Cover, I've had great luck with mine. If it's going
> under the watchful eyes of Concourse judges it won't pass, but either 
> should
> Powder Coating.
> YMMV!
> Cheers,
> Wayne Lee
> Douglas, MA
> 64 TR4
> 75 TR6 (daily driver)
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: <trsix74 at comcast.net>
> To: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 7:34 AM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] valve cover question
>
>
>> In my experience, both can be good, pending how much you want to spend.
>> But the big difference will be in thr preperation. To paint, you need 
>> only
>> to clean up and prep the outer surface, place it on a flat surface and
>> spray, preferably with high heat temp paint.
>>
>> With powder coating it will be neccersary to remove the steel wire 
>> packing
>> and completelt degrease the inside. Glass beading alone will not work.
>> Mutiple rinses are required to remove anything and all that will be
>> detrimental to the finish. Only once all is gone, then you can powdercoat
>> and bake. The big issue is, when it is being baked. If there is any oil
>> left anywhere it will show up during the baking process and the powder
>> coating will not work. My knowledge comes from a friend who had a powder
>> coating business and did mine. 12 years later, I still listen to the
>> issues he had doing mine.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Oct  6 12:04:07 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 11:04:07 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?
In-Reply-To: <12974694.218731223315193016.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web25-z02>
References: <12974694.218731223315193016.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957303B8CDB@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Dave:

        The problem with 6" speakers is that there is little material left for
structural support after you carve up the kidney pads to make them fit. The
kidney pads need a certain amount of stiffness and ruggedness to survive, and
6" speakers would significantly degrade this. How successful you would be is a
matter of conjecture on my part, since I have not tried it, but I would say
that the 4" speaker kidney pads are none too robust to start with.
        Now, perhaps if you used 3/16" plywood instead of fiberboard you could
go with 6", but then you would be making your own kidney pads. While making
your own would be pretty simple (plywood, black vinyl, 1/2" foam and some
staples) it might be more work than you would prefer.
        The other question is how worthwhile would it be. The location of the
speakers in the kidney pads is a disaster for fidelity. You might consider
putting the effort into mounting speakers on the parcel shelf  and a subwoofer
in the passenger footwell, for example.
        Don't forget that the original radios only put out 2-3 watts per
channel, flea power by today's standards, so you would be looking at a
separate amp(s), or some sort of high powered head unit. Then there is the
issue of getting enough juice out of the alternator for modern electronics,
etc, etc, etc. Sigh.
        That's why I never turn on the radio in the six, and instead listen to
the siren song of the motor.

        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Monday, October 06, 2008 10:47 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?

Hey list;

Some of your browse through TR6 stuff on eBay, from time to time. On the list
of parts amnd sellers is a guy who typically sell the "kidney pads" into which
many lister mount their radio speakers. he sell them with  NO holes or with 4"
holes. I asked him what about mounting six inch speakers -- how could someone
accomplish that with a four inch dia. mounting hole? He answered: "Can't be
done, use smaller speakers!" I know I have seen many folks with six inch
speakers mounted in their tranny-side "kidney" panels -- did you buy panels
with NO holes then cut your own to suit?

Thanks for any insights.

Dave

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Oct  6 12:07:25 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 18:07:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?
Message-ID: <1958363499-1223316448-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1323442401-@bxe135.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I bought some with 4" holes from him, they were better quality than my originals with no holes.  That said, I don't think the diameter will be a problem although its pretty tight down there on the side with the heater flap control. I would be more concerned with the depth though. Do they make that shallow of a 6" speaker?

Lou
------Original Message------
From: forzion at maine.rr.com
Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Oct 6, 2008 12:46 PM
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?

Hey list;

Some of your browse through TR6 stuff on eBay, from time to time. On the list of parts amnd sellers is a guy who typically sell the "kidney pads" into which many lister mount their radio speakers. he sell them with  NO holes or with 4" holes. I asked him what about mounting six inch speakers -- how could someone accomplish that with a four inch dia. mounting hole? He answered: "Can't be done, use smaller speakers!" I know I have seen many folks with six inch speakers mounted in their tranny-side "kidney" panels -- did you buy panels with NO holes then cut your own to suit?

Thanks for any insights.

Dave
'74-Six
Maine
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From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Mon Oct  6 12:27:20 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 14:27:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40810061127y93a6aa7m38fcde8e6d30e400@mail.gmail.com>

Dave,

I purchased new kidney panels from TRF with the normal 4" holes and
then cut the hole to make it fit a 6" speaker.

It wasn't that hard.  As you probably know, on a panel with a 4" hole,
the vinyl around the hole is folded back onto the backside of the
panel and then held in place with staples (and I think some adhesive).
 I just pulled the staples, pulled the vinyl back, enlarged the hole,
cut the vinyl so that it would fold back onto the backside smoothly,
and then re-stapled it.  The hardest part was cutting a larger hole in
the panel.  You have to be careful not to accidentally poke a hole in
the vinyl.  I couldn't use a jig saw since the tip of the blade would
have ripped through the vinyl, so I ended up using a combination of a
grinding attachment and small sanding drum attachment for my Dremel
tool and enlarging the hole that way.  I think I have pictures of the
work somewhere, so let me know if you would like to see them.

I would think you could do the same thing with a panel with no holes.

Also, I took one of my old panels and did a test run on it to make
sure it would work.  I'd recommend doing that as well.

John V.

1974 1/2 TR6

------
Hey list;

Some of your browse through TR6 stuff on eBay, from time to time. On
the list of parts amnd sellers is a guy who typically sell the "kidney
pads" into which many lister mount their radio speakers. he sell them
with  NO holes or with 4" holes. I asked him what about mounting six
inch speakers -- how could someone accomplish that with a four inch
dia. mounting hole? He answered: "Can't be done, use smaller
speakers!" I know I have seen many folks with six inch speakers
mounted in their tranny-side "kidney" panels -- did you buy panels
with NO holes then cut your own to suit?

Thanks for any insights.

Dave
'74-Six
Maine

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Oct  6 12:39:40 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 12:39:40 -0600
Subject: [6pack] valve cover question
References: <200810051403.09975.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <629670EF9BAE41BAAD182E053468BD2E@rolofson>

Bob,

If you choose to powder coat degrease the valve cover as much as possible and
then cook it in the powder-coating oven at 400 degrees for about 20 minutes,
degrease it again with acetone or something similar, bake it again, clean it
again and then powder coat it.  I try to bake everything I've powder coated
just because you don't always know how greasy the part might have been in a
prior life.  If you don't bake the parts you can get some bad results when you
add powder to the process and you don't want to have to spend hours and hours
(or money to pay someone) blasting powder coating off a part.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob
  To: 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Sunday, October 05, 2008 12:03 PM
  Subject: [6pack] valve cover question


  Hi,

  Is it a good idea to have a 72 TR6 valve cover powder coated maybe in a nice
  silver?

  Or should it just be painted with silver engine paint?

  Just asking.

  Bob
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
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  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

From Pimento73 at aol.com  Mon Oct  6 20:35:47 2008
From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 22:35:47 EDT
Subject: [6pack] 6-pack forum
Message-ID: <bfa.28b24feb.361c2503@aol.com>

Its happened again - i suddenly can't sign onto the forum - requested a new  
password and it doesn't work either.
 
If one of you on the forum would go to the "new front wheel bearings"  thread 
and post that Chicago Rawhide seal #13612 is the one you want, it might  help 
somebody out.  
 
Thanks,
Jack Mc



**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.  
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From jattr6 at hotmail.com  Mon Oct  6 20:46:55 2008
From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 02:46:55 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?
In-Reply-To: <12974694.218731223315193016.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web25-z02>
References: <12974694.218731223315193016.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web25-z02>
Message-ID: <COL101-W447E2AFB72922C7BAFEA9180380@phx.gbl>

Hello.

Although I opted for building my own boxes to mount speakers on the shelf,
I did one time make my own kidney pads with great success. There are 6 inch
speakers available (if i recall) that have a shallow mounting depth.

What I did to make the pads was start with fiber board from any hardware
store. cut the shape (in my case exact to original specs - but could be made
larger for larger speakers) then with a jig saw i cut the holes.
for padding i used carpet pad. and then vinyl from a fabric store.
worked perfect and looked great. so just got find some shallow mounting depth.

look at crutchfield's web site.

cheers,

james
_________________________________________________________________
Get more out of the Web. Learn 10 hidden secrets of Windows Live.
http://windowslive.com/connect/post/jamiethomson.spaces.live.com-Blog-cns!550
F681DAD532637!5295.entry?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_domore_092008

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Mon Oct  6 22:38:21 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 21:38:21 -0700
Subject: [6pack] rear wheel arch vinyl piece needed
Message-ID: <20081007043839.EC92A18763F@autox.team.net>

Hi List.

When I removed my interior, I destroyed the wheel arch vinyl pieces.  They
should be easy to reproduce, but I threw out the material I removed.  Does
anyone have an old one they removed and didn't throw away for some reason?
I would like to use it as a pattern to make a pair out of new material.
Even if someone has a new one they will let me borrow just for the pattern.
I will pay for shipping to and from, obviously, and shouldn't need it more
than a few days. Please let me know if you can help.

Andy Packard

CD6746L HVDA 

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Oct  7 05:32:28 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 07:32:28 EDT
Subject: [6pack] rear wheel arch vinyl piece needed
Message-ID: <be2.3a42bf5c.361ca2cc@aol.com>

When my mother became too elderly to sew she gave me her sewing  machine.  I will tell you  that learning to use the thing is a lesson  in making patterns.  Make the vertical piece and the horizontal piece out  of brown paper leave yourself an inch - inch and a half overlap on both pieces  and mark where the stitch line goes when you lay the pattern on the arch with  tape.  If you have, or want, piping you can get all the materials to make  it at Jo-An fabrics, or the like, and have at it.  
I have uninstalled arch covers for my 3A and I will tell you that it is  just flat material sewed together.  You need to stretch it on to get it to  take the shape of the rounded edge.
Don't forget you need excess material to run out on the floor and up the  inside wall as well to go under carpet and side panels.
I assume you have a machine that can handle multiple layers of  vinyl.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Oct  1 08:16:05 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 07:16:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots
In-Reply-To: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
References: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573013BF2B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Andy:

        Gorgeous. I did notice the fuel line seems to be awfully close to the
exhaust pipe. Presumably that is going to get tied out of the way before you
start it?

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
apackard68 at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 8:19 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots

By request, here are some quickly taken photos of underneath my TR250.  I had
the custom exhaust done with a one-in, two out Magnaflow straight through
muffler with tail pipes that mimic the stock look.  I'm guessing the sound
will be a little aggressive, but I have to start it to know!  I didn't think
ahead enough on the exhaust mounting, so it ended up too close to the driver's
side of the car, forcing me to mount my fuel pump on the other rail.  Brake
lines are on the left, secured to the Ratco frame using ties.  I had the oil
pan powder coated, so I took a couple of pics of that, too.  And yes, it's
sitting on my EZCar lift from Boytcho Manev.  Glad to see folks are looking at
the pics.
Andy

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Wed Oct  1 08:56:06 2008
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 09:56:06 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots
In-Reply-To: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
References: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <F2D97A2720394A7F859045A04A150A8A@stevekirsisPC>

Beautiful Andy. How do you like the EZ car lift? I bought one a few years 
ago and don't know how I ever managed without one. The ability to tuck the 
car in a corner with the castors is fantastic. Steve Kirsis '70 and '75 
TR-6s
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <apackard68 at comcast.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, September 30, 2008 10:19 PM
Subje] TR250 underneath shots


> By request, here are some quickly taken photos of underneath my TR250.  I 
> had the custom exhaust done with a one-in, two out Magnaflow straight 
> through muffler with tail pipes that mimic the stock look.  I'm guessing 
> the sound will be a little aggressive, but I have to start it to know!  I 
> didn't think ahead enough on the exhaust mounting, so it ended up too 
> close to the driver's side of the car, forcing me to mount my fuel pump on 
> the other rail.  Brake lines are on the left, secured to the Ratco frame 
> using ties.  I had the oil pan powder coated, so I took a couple of pics 
> of that, too.  And yes, it's sitting on my EZCar lift from Boytcho Manev. 
> Glad to see folks are looking at the pics.
> Andy
>
>
> You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
> Just click on View Photos to get started.
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.azlvq0sr&x=0&y=-lilkt8&localeid=en_US
> If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
> if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've
> signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want
> and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.
>
> Enjoy!
> Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
> an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can
> join the Gallery for free.
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp
>
> Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team
> Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
> following URL directly into your browser:
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.azlvq0sr&x=0&y=-lilkt8&localeid=en_US
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as sakirsis at consolidated.net

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Oct  1 09:00:56 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 11:00:56 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573013BF2B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573013BF2B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810011059450.29877@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 1 Oct 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote:

>        Andy:
>
>        Gorgeous. I did notice the fuel line seems to be awfully close to the
> exhaust pipe. Presumably that is going to get tied out of the way before you
> start it?

Ya, I agree... you might want to think about a heat shield for the fuel 
line.

Neat pipes! I like the header too.

That baby will sound awesome when you tromp on it.

>        Vance

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Wed Oct  1 09:10:25 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 01 Oct 2008 15:10:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] body off frame experience.
Message-ID: <100120081510.590.48E392E1000076EC0000024E2207020853CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>

After a seven year restoration project of my TR3, I am now in the process of the same on my 1949 Mayflower. I recommend as you remove a part, take a picture of how it is assembled, then clean it up, restore or replace it and pack it away. I have found using a Moss catalogue and a hiliter, it is the best way to make sure you have everything ready for the rebuild. It took me 4 years to break down and clean up all the parts. After the body was done and the frame and body were once again joined in harmony, it took only 3 months to complete the car. (and I did not rush!)
The sad part is that the TR3 project is finished. I enjoyed every moment of the project, and just like a good book I wish it had never come to an end. The great part is the enjoyment of the ride.
My 49 Triumph Mayflower will be the substitute for my addiction to British Cars. I have owned it a year  to date.  I have removed the engine and all the peripheals. I have the brakes all disassembled and am ready to clean out the lines. All the parts are ready on the table for the rebuild. The engine is partially rebuilt. I have all the extras ready. This year I will procure the leather at the Hershey Market and start the rebuild of the interior. Whilst the car is gutted, the small amount of body work and the expensive paint job will happen. This will take a good two years so in about a total of 5-6 years the car will be back on the road. We will not discuss the money put into it against the value of the car when finished. It will be as crazy as the current financial status of our country. I have heard it said: "Its not the destination but the journey that is remembered". That's all from me for the moment.

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Wed Oct  1 09:52:55 2008
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 10:52:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] E Z Lift, was TR250 underneath shots
In-Reply-To: <100120081528.5044.48E39708000154E9000013B42205886360970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <100120081528.5044.48E39708000154E9000013B42205886360970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <7F2D51D4DEE84F05B49AA4ED431A39E7@stevekirsisPC>

Andy, I settled on the EZ lift for the restrictions I was facing with 2 TRs.
My family with 2 cars (wife and 17 year old daughter) graciously gave up the
garage for my 2 Triumphs and a golf cart. TR6s and golf are 2 great hobbies. I
now have the "Triumph of the week" to drive and the ability to tuck the other
in the corner waiting for next week. It makes working on the car a breeze.
Takes a 3/8" drill to lift the car with plenty of height to accomplish
anything. A great plus is the fact the wheels are able to be removed for easy
suspension and brake work. Lifts on the frame. Very pricey but a well
engineered thought out invention. The owner is the engineer of the product and
they are located right next to Moss motors in CA. If it is affordable and you
need space this is it. Last a lifetime and stores easily. Steve Kirsis '70
Damson, '75 Pimento. Montgomery TX.
  ----- Original Message ----- v
  neu

  Sent: Wednesday, October 01, 2008 10:28 AM
  Subject: E Z Lift, was TR250 underneath shots




    -------------- Original message --------------
    From: "Steve Kirsis" <sakirsis at consolidated.net>

    > Beautiful Andy. How do you like the EZ car lift?



    Steve,

    I have just this week started to look into a lift of some kind for my
garage. I have height restrictions, so I'm probably going to have to go with
one of those scissor lifts, but I thought I'd ask about your E Z Lift anyways.
How big is it, and where can I get more info?

    Thanks,

    Irv Korey

From massitti at telus.net  Wed Oct  1 10:46:40 2008
From: massitti at telus.net (massitti at telus.net)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 10:46:40 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] Triumphest!
Message-ID: <9302401.16181221222879600462.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edmwes95>

   Hello all,

   Just  booked  my  ticket to the GRC Conference in Reno last week, then
   two  days  ago through this list (Andy's post and pics specifically) I
   see Tfest is 60 miles away in Lake Tahoe!B  Yeha!B  Had I known, I may
   have been tempted to drive the TR down (2700 miles round trip, NOT!)!

   I've  never  been  to  one of these "big meets" soB looking forward to
   meeting some of you folks and seeing your great cars up close!

   OVM

   http://www.triumphowners.com/866

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Wed Oct  1 16:18:00 2008
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 16:18:00 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots
In-Reply-To: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
References: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0810011518r268fe5d9yf47b70dda4028290@mail.gmail.com>

Andy,

This is a very nice exhaust system.
Is this an off-the-shelf Magnaflow muffler, with the 1 pipe in and 2 pipes out?
Please tell us about the sound quality and volume when you run it.

At the moment I have a 6 to 1 header, 2 1/2" single pipe to the back,
feeding into a stock single inlet TR6 muffler (the real bottleneck!).
I like the sound of the stock TR6 mufller, but I would love to find a
muffler that flows better without being screaming loud.

Henri
75 TR6

On Tue, Sep 30, 2008 at 9:19 PM,  <apackard68 at comcast.net> wrote:
> By request, here are some quickly taken photos of underneath my TR250.  I had the custom exhaust done with a one-in, two out Magnaflow straight through muffler with tail pipes that mimic the stock look.  I'm guessing the sound will be a little aggressive, but I have to start it to know!  I didn't think ahead enough on the exhaust mounting, so it ended up too close to the driver's side of the car, forcing me to mount my fuel pump on the other rail.  Brake lines are on the left, secured to the Ratco frame using ties.  I had the oil pan powder coated, so I took a couple of pics of that, too.  And yes, it's sitting on my EZCar lift from Boytcho Manev.  Glad to see folks are looking at the pics.
> Andy
>
>
> You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
> Just click on View Photos to get started.
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.azlvq0sr&x=0&y=-lilkt8&localeid=en_US
> If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
> if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've
> signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want
> and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.
>
> Enjoy!
> Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
> an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can
> join the Gallery for free.
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp
>
> Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team
> Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
>
>
> If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
> following URL directly into your browser:
> http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.azlvq0sr&x=0&y=-lilkt8&localeid=en_US
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Oct  1 17:30:09 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 19:30:09 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots
In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0810011518r268fe5d9yf47b70dda4028290@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
	<83dfea6b0810011518r268fe5d9yf47b70dda4028290@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810011927170.31418@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 1 Oct 2008, Henri Lefebvre wrote:

> Andy,
>
> This is a very nice exhaust system.
> Is this an off-the-shelf Magnaflow muffler, with the 1 pipe in and 2 pipes out?
> Please tell us about the sound quality and volume when you run it.
>
> At the moment I have a 6 to 1 header, 2 1/2" single pipe to the back,
> feeding into a stock single inlet TR6 muffler (the real bottleneck!).
> I like the sound of the stock TR6 mufller, but I would love to find a
> muffler that flows better without being screaming loud.

Pretty much every "turbo style" muffler that I've seen is reasonably 
quiet... the ones that are loud are the straight-through with padding. But 
turbo-style has perforated tubes on the inlet and outlet so there's a lot 
of sound attenuation. Aim for a turbo muffler.

> Henri
> 75 TR6

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Oct  1 17:41:32 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 1 Oct 2008 19:41:32 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 underneath shots
In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0810011518r268fe5d9yf47b70dda4028290@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200810010319.m913JMbQ013428@upsa-web106.ofoto.com>
	<83dfea6b0810011518r268fe5d9yf47b70dda4028290@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810011930200.31418@isis.mit.edu>

Hi.

I forgot - the Magnaflow web site has sound clips so you can compare 
sounds... www.magnaflow.com click on "hear it". The BMW sounds are sort of 
close (don't pick the 335, that's a turbo... LOTS quieter). Also note on 
the M3 driveby that the intake sounds is LOUDER than the exhaust. The M3 
part number is a kit with a muffler and a resonator. You can really get by 
okay with a turbo muffler (and the 2.5 inch pipes). Try to limit the 
number of bends.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Oct  2 16:06:58 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 18:06:58 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <28423390.440101222976141662.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web28-z02>
References: <28423390.440101222976141662.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web28-z02>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810021802230.1108@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I did some 8mm heli-cores about 8 years ago, the kit came with a crimper 
that fits in the jaws of a bench vise... worked very well.

About the only problem with those wires was that the boots are REALLY LONG 
so you MUST use dielectric grease when you slide the boots onto the plugs 
or they will get stuck (near impossible to remove) or you can't get the 
connector to make tight contact with the plug.

I wound up cutting 1/2" or so off the boots to make installation a bit 
easier, but my situation is pretty much worst case as I frequently pull 
the entire ignition system to do "stuff" on the motor. On the plus side, 
removal installtion is less than 10 min.

:-)

There's no minus, I can have a new ignition system in that time. That 
ALWAYS works when there's a problem. Troubleshooting comes later when I 
have time to putter.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Oct  2 16:21:08 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Thu, 2 Oct 2008 15:21:08 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 4 speed tranny in NW
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0810021521p5bacf550hccd7da948cad7af3@mail.gmail.com>

Anybody have a 4 speed TR4-6 tranny available in the North West.  It is for
rebuild.
Thanks
-- 
Chuck Arnold

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Oct  2 17:56:24 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 02 Oct 2008 19:56:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ignition wires
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810021802230.1108@isis.mit.edu>
References: <28423390.440101222976141662.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web28-z02>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810021802230.1108@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <48E55FA8.3040603@maine.rr.com>

Thanks to all who answered my question, both on and off the list. Very 
encouraging!
With the right tools, it seems the job can get done well. They even make 
tools for taking
your wires OFF the plugs (ahem, Robert!) . :-)

Dave


Robert Lang wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I did some 8mm heli-cores about 8 years ago, the kit came with a 
> crimper that fits in the jaws of a bench vise... worked very well.
>
> About the only problem with those wires was that the boots are REALLY 
> LONG so you MUST use dielectric grease when you slide the boots onto 
> the plugs or they will get stuck (near impossible to remove) or you 
> can't get the connector to make tight contact with the plug.
>
> I wound up cutting 1/2" or so off the boots to make installation a bit 
> easier, but my situation is pretty much worst case as I frequently 
> pull the entire ignition system to do "stuff" on the motor. On the 
> plus side, removal installtion is less than 10 min.
>
> :-)
>
> There's no minus, I can have a new ignition system in that time. That 
> ALWAYS works when there's a problem. Troubleshooting comes later when 
> I have time to putter.
>
> rml
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Fri Oct  3 15:36:44 2008
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Fri, 3 Oct 2008 17:36:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA electrical connector
Message-ID: <93A9565598EB431297E2F3278EF26A00@jerrysoffice>

Anyone find a easily procured substitute for the stock two-conductor connector
for the PDWA? Mine's toast.

Jerry Shaw
'74 TR6 Mallard Green (under construction)

From rgrandy at tds.net  Sat Oct  4 18:30:01 2008
From: rgrandy at tds.net (Randall Niffenegger)
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 19:30:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] PDWA ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Message-ID: <005c01c92681$82a99bc0$a200a8c0@puter>

HI JERRY,
    I TOO, NEEDED A REPLACEMENT FOR THE ORIGINAL CONNECTOR WHEN INSTALLING MY
DAN MASTERS POWER BLOCK AND WIRING HARNESS.  I FOUND THAT A STANDARD 1/4"
FEMALE SPADE CONNECTOR WITH THE PARTS THAT CLAMP AROUND THE 1/4" MALE END
OPENED UP SLIGHTLY (TO FIT SNUGGLY AROUND THE TWO POSTS OF THE PDWA) MADE AN
ACCEPTABLE REPLACEMENT IN MY CASE.  I USED A SMALL NEEDLENOSE PLIERS TO OPEN
UP THE SIDES OF THE SPADE CONNECTOR SO THAT IT SLIPS SNUGGLY AROUND THE TWO
POSTS OF THE  PDWA.  HOPE THIS HELPS!

RANDALL NIFFENEGGER
'74 TR6, WHITE, BACK ON THE ROAD SOON

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Sat Oct  4 18:52:34 2008
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (slowtoaccept at yahoo.com)
Date: Sat, 4 Oct 2008 17:52:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] PDWA ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR
Message-ID: <841496.54892.qm@web55003.mail.re4.yahoo.com>

Hi Randall
Thank you for your recommendation. As you probably know, the two
male posts of the PDWA switch are shorted together, so there is no need to
have two conductors. One conductor (BP in Dan Master's Power Block
terminology) is sufficient. I will try your solution 
Thanks again
Jerry
----- Original Message ----
From: Randall Niffenegger <rgrandy at tds.net>
To:
slowtoaccept at yahoo.com
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday, October 4,
2008 8:30:01 PM
Subject: PDWA ELECTRICAL CONNECTOR


HI JERRY,
    I TOO,
NEEDED A REPLACEMENT FOR THE ORIGINAL CONNECTOR WHEN INSTALLING MY DAN MASTERS
POWER BLOCK AND WIRING HARNESS.  I FOUND THAT A STANDARD 1/4" FEMALE SPADE
CONNECTOR WITH THE PARTS THAT CLAMP AROUND THE 1/4" MALE END OPENED UP
SLIGHTLY (TO FIT SNUGGLY AROUND THE TWO POSTS OF THE PDWA) MADE AN ACCEPTABLE
REPLACEMENT IN MY CASE.  I USED A SMALL NEEDLENOSE PLIERS TO OPEN UP THE SIDES
OF THE SPADE CONNECTOR SO THAT IT SLIPS SNUGGLY AROUND THE TWO POSTS OF THE 
PDWA.  HOPE THIS HELPS!
 
RANDALL NIFFENEGGER
'74 TR6, WHITE, BACK ON THE ROAD
SOON

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Tue Oct  7 12:37:38 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 14:37:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 401
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1.1223402400.13988.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1.1223402400.13988.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40810071137o325518c9i374a389fda4ac4fb@mail.gmail.com>

I found that once I installed the speakers (securing them to the pads
with four screws going through the speaker's mounting holes and the
pads and then secured on the backside with nuts), the kidney pads were
pretty solid.  But without the speakers in place, yeah, they are
pretty flimsy.

Also, I used standard size 6 "speakers and had no depth problems.

However, you are absolutely right on hearing them.  With the open
backs, there is no enclosed air (like on a stereo speaker, door panel,
or trunk), so the sound you get isn't that great.  I ended up building
my own speaker box for the shelf.

John V.
1974 1/2 TR 6

>        The problem with 6" speakers is that there is little material left for
> structural support after you carve up the kidney pads to make them fit. The
> kidney pads need a certain amount of stiffness and ruggedness to survive, and
> 6" speakers would significantly degrade this. How successful you would be is a
> matter of conjecture on my part, since I have not tried it, but I would say
> that the 4" speaker kidney pads are none too robust to start with.

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Oct  7 13:02:08 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 15:02:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 401
Message-ID: <22951941.675031223406128690.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web19-z02>

Thanks to all who responded to my speaker question. The trend seems to be that some prefer the sound of a Triumph straight six (music to my ears, too!) while others feel that parcel-shelf-mounted speakers provide more sound for the driver to hear than kidney-pad-mounted speakers....

So, maybe I'll go check-out Bazooka speakers! :- )

Dave
'74-Six

---- John VanNorman <jsvannorman at gmail.com> wrote: 
> I found that once I installed the speakers (securing them to the pads
> with four screws going through the speaker's mounting holes and the
> pads and then secured on the backside with nuts), the kidney pads were
> pretty solid.  But without the speakers in place, yeah, they are
> pretty flimsy.
> 
> Also, I used standard size 6 "speakers and had no depth problems.
> 
> However, you are absolutely right on hearing them.  With the open
> backs, there is no enclosed air (like on a stereo speaker, door panel,
> or trunk), so the sound you get isn't that great.  I ended up building
> my own speaker box for the shelf.
> 
> John V.
> 1974 1/2 TR 6
> 
> >        The problem with 6" speakers is that there is little material left for
> > structural support after you carve up the kidney pads to make them fit. The
> > kidney pads need a certain amount of stiffness and ruggedness to survive, and
> > 6" speakers would significantly degrade this. How successful you would be is a
> > matter of conjecture on my part, since I have not tried it, but I would say
> > that the 4" speaker kidney pads are none too robust to start with.
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Oct  7 13:40:15 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 19:40:15 +0000
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 401
Message-ID: <BLU118-W53499633D3C636B6B983938E380@phx.gbl>

Just my .02,
I was never happy with my stereo until I had 4 speakers. A PO had cut 6 inch
holes in the rear panel and although I don't like the location (he cut them
high, so the unzipped window covers them) I've just lived with that location.
I put 4 inch speakers in the stock holes in the kidneys and the cockpit is
filled up much better with listenable sound than it all coming from behind me.
An unorthodox suggestion you may like is to put the stereo channels front to
back, not the normal left to right. I 'notice' stereo separation much more and
love it that way.

Oh I love that OEM TR exhaust note too, but it is only enhanced by some good
old rock-and-roll that is actually audible at speed with the top down.

Sloane :)
'69-Six> Thanks to all who responded to my speaker question. The trend seems
to be that some prefer the sound of a Triumph straight six (music to my ears,
too!) while others feel that parcel-shelf-mounted speakers provide more sound
for the driver to hear than kidney-pad-mounted speakers....> > So, maybe I'll
go check-out Bazooka speakers! :- )> > Dave> '74-Six>
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Oct  7 13:48:55 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2008 19:48:55 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Whistling Throwout Bearing
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV819A12065BA38CC261DB5F4380@phx.gbl>

Ron---I don't know if everyone who has installed the TOYO bearing has experienced the whistling, but I know I have. (Also on another TR6 that I put this bearing in) What could be the issue here is the weight of this bearing. While it is certainly more robust than some of the others, this could mean that it takes more friction against the clutch fingers to come up to speed. At one time I tried "pre-loading it" ala the instructions for the Gunst bearing.  But to no avail. It would sing just as yours until more pressure was placed on the clutch pedal. This singing, or whistling, should cause no particular damage, other than to one's nerves. It could cause some grooving in the clutch fingers over extensive use, tho.

As with all throwout bearings, it is important to "center" the bearing in relation to the clutch. This is done by using the two (3/8"diam.) aligning pins thru the engine backplate and bellhousing.

Finally, one must be sure that the front cover is not worn so much as to allow this bearing and its sleeve to droop from itsown weight, as this could set up a misalignment at the clutch.

Dick

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Oct  7 14:01:12 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 07 Oct 2008 20:01:12 GMT
Subject: [6pack] A couple youtube videos of my first drives @ Triumphest
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV915700F8F14BFEB2B1CB2F4380@phx.gbl>

Andy's 250 looks even better when seen up close. 
I think this year's Triumphest was a success, despite the rain that visited the lake on Friday, the day before the car judging. Quick thinking by the hosts arranged for all entries to duck under the cover of the three story garage parking. A posted guard reserved the top floor for TRs only.

It is said that there were 165 cars entered, and 300+ came to the banquet.

Next year's Triumphest will be coupled with the  VTR group, and is certain to draw an even larger number. Those in charge say it will be held in San Luis Obispo, in central California. Sept. 30 thru Oct. 3 is the time slot. Hope to see some of you there!

Dick Taylor,
Los Angeles


-----Original Message-----
From: Andrew Packard
Sent: Sunday, October 5, 2008 8:31 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] A couple youtube videos of my first drives @ Triumphest

I just got my car going forward under its own power at T-phest on Friday at
1:45.  Unfortunately, this was about 15 minutes after the autocross course
was taken down (the schedule said 3:00!, but that's a rant I've gotten
over).  

 

Here are a couple videos of my first passenger and a sample of the exhaust
note from the Magnaflow exhaust.  I don't know what it's like cruising on
the freeway yet, but here's a moderate and then hard acceleration example.

Andy

CD6746L

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WBV7WBlR3LQ           exhaust note     

 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1DyIzPHNoMI              first passenger
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Tue Oct  7 17:22:35 2008
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Tue, 7 Oct 2008 19:22:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Six inch speakers?
Message-ID: <D7E898C5C1D546E2B4A02993CA775466@jerrysoffice>

Vance Navarrette wrote:

" That's why I never turn on the radio in the six, and instead listen to
the siren song of the motor."

Hmmm ... the only siren song I've heard recently is the Georgia Highway Patrol
pulling me over because of my Obama-Biden bumper stickers.

On a more serious note, I'm not too keen on listening to the blare of my Ansa
dual pipes on long trips, so I'm installing a few more watts with both kidney
speakers, shelf speakers and a subwoofer in a DynaMat-lined trunk.

Jerry Shaw
'74 Mallard Green (under construction)
'75 BRG dog but driveable.

Illegitimis non Carborundum
"Don't let the bastards grind you down"
General Joe Stilwell







Message: 1
Date: Mon, 6 Oct 2008 11:04:07 -0700
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Six inch speakers?
To: "forzion at maine.rr.com" <forzion at maine.rr.com>
Cc: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID:
<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957303B8CDB at orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

        Dave:

        The problem with 6" speakers is that there is little material left
for
structural support after you carve up the kidney pads to make them fit. The
kidney pads need a certain amount of stiffness and ruggedness to survive, and
6" speakers would significantly degrade this. How successful you would be is
a
matter of conjecture on my part, since I have not tried it, but I would say
that the 4" speaker kidney pads are none too robust to start with.
        Now, perhaps if you used 3/16" plywood instead of fiberboard you
could
go with 6", but then you would be making your own kidney pads. While making
your own would be pretty simple (plywood, black vinyl, 1/2" foam and some
staples) it might be more work than you would prefer.
        The other question is how worthwhile would it be. The location of the
speakers in the kidney pads is a disaster for fidelity. You might consider
putting the effort into mounting speakers on the parcel shelf  and a
subwoofer
in the passenger footwell, for example.
        Don't forget that the original radios only put out 2-3 watts per
channel, flea power by today's standards, so you would be looking at a
separate amp(s), or some sort of high powered head unit. Then there is the
issue of getting enough juice out of the alternator for modern electronics,
etc, etc, etc. Sigh.
        That's why I never turn on the radio in the six, and instead listen
to
the siren song of the motor.

        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct  8 13:14:59 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 14:14:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] horns
Message-ID: <002101c9297a$29899080$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

list -

are there electrical, as in overload, issues that would make it a bad idea to
replace my anemic horns with ones from a flaps that have some intensity?
can't i just wire them up where the old ones are?

thanks!

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct  8 14:38:44 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 16:38:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] horns
In-Reply-To: <002101c9297a$29899080$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <002101c9297a$29899080$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <55409DA1FC744AE08E3ECFE3C41C29B5@bobspc>

Oliver,
I doubt that there's any reasonable horn out there that you can't use. It's
not like your lights which are a constant drain for long periods of time.
You're horn is basically used as a toot toot.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 3:15 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] horns

list -

are there electrical, as in overload, issues that would make it a bad idea
to replace my anemic horns with ones from a flaps that have some intensity?
can't i just wire them up where the old ones are?

thanks!
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
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7:01 AM

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Oct  8 15:18:18 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 17:18:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] horns
Message-ID: <D5A10FA935584EF598E5F6C68E518AF2@D9Z8J571>

I was curious about this myself after seeing the Hella Horns for sale in
 Griot's Garage. I know the Headlights don't have a Relay, but do the Horns
 have one? I don't have my schematic handy.
 Regards,
 Wayne
 64 TR4
 75 TR6 (Daily Driver)



> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> To: "'Oliver'" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 4:38 PM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] horns
>
>
>> Oliver,
>> I doubt that there's any reasonable horn out there that you can't use. 
>> It's
>> not like your lights which are a constant drain for long periods of time.
>> You're horn is basically used as a toot toot.
>>
>>
>> Bob Danielson
>> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
>> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
>> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
>> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
>> Behalf Of Oliver
>> Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 3:15 PM
>> To: 6-Pack
>> Subject: [6pack] horns
>>
>> list -
>>
>> are there electrical, as in overload, issues that would make it a bad 
>> idea
>> to replace my anemic horns with ones from a flaps that have some 
>> intensity?
>> can't i just wire them up where the old ones are?

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Oct  8 15:28:40 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 21:28:40 +0000
Subject: [6pack] horns
In-Reply-To: <D5A10FA935584EF598E5F6C68E518AF2@D9Z8J571>
References: <D5A10FA935584EF598E5F6C68E518AF2@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C1305F1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

>From 1970 onwards we got a relay. The TR250 and the 1969 TR6 are wired
direct.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Lee
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 5:18 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] horns

I was curious about this myself after seeing the Hella Horns for sale in
 Griot's Garage. I know the Headlights don't have a Relay, but do the Horns
 have one? I don't have my schematic handy.
 Regards,
 Wayne
 64 TR4
 75 TR6 (Daily Driver)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Oct  8 15:31:05 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 14:31:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] horns
In-Reply-To: <D5A10FA935584EF598E5F6C68E518AF2@D9Z8J571>
References: <D5A10FA935584EF598E5F6C68E518AF2@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573045A7F5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Wayne:

        Beginning in 1970, the TR6 horns used a relay. The 1969 model year had
them wired directly to the horn switch.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Wayne Lee
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 2:18 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] horns

I was curious about this myself after seeing the Hella Horns for sale in
 Griot's Garage. I know the Headlights don't have a Relay, but do the Horns
 have one? I don't have my schematic handy.
 Regards,
 Wayne
 64 TR4
 75 TR6 (Daily Driver)

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Wed Oct  8 15:54:12 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 15:54:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] horns
In-Reply-To: <55409DA1FC744AE08E3ECFE3C41C29B5@bobspc>
Message-ID: <74506ECD59BA4869B432B27FC4B3603D@nmsu.edu>

Bob and all..

Didn't there used to be a zydeco-style song that went "don't mess with my
toot-toot"??

Kevin



L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA
 
New Mexico State University
505-646-2485

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+kmcnelis=nmsu.edu at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+kmcnelis=nmsu.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 2:39 PM
To: 'Oliver'; '6-Pack'
Subject: Re: [6pack] horns

Oliver,
I doubt that there's any reasonable horn out there that you can't use. It's
not like your lights which are a constant drain for long periods of time.
You're horn is basically used as a toot toot.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 3:15 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] horns

list -

are there electrical, as in overload, issues that would make it a bad idea
to replace my anemic horns with ones from a flaps that have some intensity?
can't i just wire them up where the old ones are?

thanks!
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
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7:01 AM
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You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Oct  8 16:17:28 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:17:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] horns
References: <D5A10FA935584EF598E5F6C68E518AF2@D9Z8J571>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573045A7F5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <81987FF4F54B4035BC217B5127415D46@D9Z8J571>

Thanks Guy's
      I guess that ends that concern the other fella had about swapping them 
out with something
louder. Same here, I think I'm going to go for those big tootin Hella's. I 
don't understand why they didn't do the same for the Headlights. I've got to 
set one up for my Cibie Headlights even if my Switch can handle the lowest 
wattage Bulbs I could put in them. I take it Triumph thought their Horns 
were more resource robbing than their Headlights. Or maybe it's the on/off 
frequently that's the problem.
I'll have to be careful not to alarm too many Q-Tips once installed.
Regards,
Wayne



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 5:31 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] horns


        Wayne:

        Beginning in 1970, the TR6 horns used a relay. The 1969 model year 
had them wired directly to the horn switch.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net 
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf 
Of Wayne Lee
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 2:18 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] horns

I was curious about this myself after seeing the Hella Horns for sale in
 Griot's Garage. I know the Headlights don't have a Relay, but do the Horns
 have one? I don't have my schematic handy.
 Regards,
 Wayne
 64 TR4
 75 TR6 (Daily Driver)

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Wed Oct  8 16:25:23 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 18:25:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] horns
Message-ID: <C023AD73146D4A0690E6C27EDEFA554C@D9Z8J571>

 Thanks Guy's
      I guess that ends that concern the other fella had about swapping them
 out with something
 louder. Same here, I think I'm going to go for those big tootin Hella's. I
 don't understand why they didn't do the same for the Headlights. I've got 
to
 set one up for my Cibie Headlights even if my Switch can handle the lowest
 wattage Bulbs I could put in them. I take it Triumph thought their Horns
 were more resource robbing than their Headlights. Or maybe it's the on/off
 frequently that's the problem.
 I'll have to be careful not to alarm too many Q-Tips once installed.
 Regards,
 Wayne

Vance Wrote:
        Wayne:
>
>        Beginning in 1970, the TR6 horns used a relay. The 1969 model year 
> had them wired directly to the horn switch.
>
>        Vance
>
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast

>
> I was curious about this myself after seeing the Hella Horns for sale in
> Griot's Garage. I know the Headlights don't have a Relay, but do the Horns
> have one? I don't have my schematic handy.
> Regards,
> Wayne
> 64 TR4
> 75 TR6 (Daily Driver)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Oct  8 17:14:34 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 16:14:34 -0700
Subject: [6pack] horns
In-Reply-To: <81987FF4F54B4035BC217B5127415D46@D9Z8J571>
References: <D5A10FA935584EF598E5F6C68E518AF2@D9Z8J571>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573045A7F5@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<81987FF4F54B4035BC217B5127415D46@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573045A8DF@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Wayne:

        I think the concern with horns is that they are an inductive load, as
opposed to a headlight which is simply a resistive load. The horns will cause
a nasty inductive kickback across the switch when the contacts open, so you
need the switch to be way over designed to handle the hundreds or thousands of
volts that result. For the headlights no such heavy duty circuit is required
since they do not generate any kick back when you shut them off.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Wayne Lee
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 3:17 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] horns

Thanks Guy's
      I guess that ends that concern the other fella had about swapping them
out with something
louder. Same here, I think I'm going to go for those big tootin Hella's. I
don't understand why they didn't do the same for the Headlights. I've got to
set one up for my Cibie Headlights even if my Switch can handle the lowest
wattage Bulbs I could put in them. I take it Triumph thought their Horns
were more resource robbing than their Headlights. Or maybe it's the on/off
frequently that's the problem.
I'll have to be careful not to alarm too many Q-Tips once installed.
Regards,
Wayne

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Oct  8 17:27:32 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 23:27:32 +0000
Subject: [6pack] horns
In-Reply-To: <C023AD73146D4A0690E6C27EDEFA554C@D9Z8J571>
References: <C023AD73146D4A0690E6C27EDEFA554C@D9Z8J571>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C130621@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I learn something new here every day..

Lexical Item or Phrase: Q-tip

  Meaning: In Physician slang, a Q-Tip means an elderly person, as aged people
often tend to be very skinny and have white hair on their heads.


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Wayne
Lee
Sent: Wednesday, October 08, 2008 6:25 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] horns

 Thanks Guy's
      I guess that ends that concern the other fella had about swapping them
 out with something
 louder. Same here, I think I'm going to go for those big tootin Hella's. I
 don't understand why they didn't do the same for the Headlights. I've got
to
 set one up for my Cibie Headlights even if my Switch can handle the lowest
 wattage Bulbs I could put in them. I take it Triumph thought their Horns
 were more resource robbing than their Headlights. Or maybe it's the on/off
 frequently that's the problem.
 I'll have to be careful not to alarm too many Q-Tips once installed.
 Regards,
 Wayne

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Oct  8 20:19:24 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 8 Oct 2008 22:19:24 EDT
Subject: [6pack] horns
Message-ID: <c39.426c01f7.361ec42c@aol.com>

I went to Harbor Freight and bought a Wolo Bad Boy air horn.  $29 or  $39.  
It is compact, easy to hide, does not have the "trumpet" horns, is  easy to 
wire, comes with a relay, and all I did was disconnect one of the power  in leads 
to one of the horns and hooked it up.  It is LOUD!  I blanked  the wiring to 
the other horn.  
I did this on my 3A because of the story I read online about some poor chap  
in Toronto, as I recall, that got chewed up by a tractor trailer that didn't  
even know he had hit the car and kept going.  I want to be heard, and I got  
it.
The horns on my 6 are actually quite loud.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.  
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out!      
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000001)

From Carscarscarz at aol.com  Fri Oct 10 02:28:38 2008
From: Carscarscarz at aol.com (Carscarscarz at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 04:28:38 EDT
Subject: [6pack] horns
Message-ID: <c2d.470cd232.36206c36@aol.com>

kmcnelis at nmsu.edu writes:

<< Didn't there used to be a zydeco-style song that went "don't mess with my
 toot-toot"??
 
 Kevin >>

Yes. Covered by Fats Domino, Doug Kershaw, John Fogerty and many Cajun/Zydeco 
performers.

But I don't think it was about a car horn...

~Steve<BR><BR><BR>**************<BR>New MapQuest Local shows what's happening 
at your destination.  Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out 
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)</HTML>

From glccrc at ptd.net  Fri Oct 10 18:10:29 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Fri, 10 Oct 2008 20:10:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Door pulls
In-Reply-To: <D7E898C5C1D546E2B4A02993CA775466@jerrysoffice>
Message-ID: <122368381378112281@pm10.mailnet.ptd.net>

Can anyone with a 1970 TR6 tell me if the chrome door pulls (danglers) were
stock, or was the moulded door pull in the window top crash pad the solo way
to pull the door shut?

Original holes don't make sense, think PDO may have screwed them in where
they looked good to him.

Pic would be worth 1,000 words:) 

Almost back out with new paint and interior

Should have an answer on 6" speakers tomorrow, I believe they were just
installed but I only know what's in the headrest of the miata, some
infiniti's.

Tunes may hold me over until compression ups from the current 80 PSi :( 
Winter job.

George Church
70 tr6

From mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 11 11:46:30 2008
From: mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net (Martin Romagni)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 10:46:30 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Leaky carb
Message-ID: <382392.82571.qm@web83601.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hello fellow listers,
 
The front carb on my 1974 TR6 is leaking gas. The leak
is coming from the Float Chamber vent emissions port. That is the one at top
of the carb, on the rear side. I believe those ports are normally routed to
the carbon canister. However, on my car, this plumbing and the canister were
removed by the PO.
 
I thought the problem was caused by a stuck float. So, I
rapped on the side of the float and sprayed some carb cleaner in the fuel
inlet and waited a while. When I started the car, no luck, it still leaks.
 
Does anyone have any other ideas either for the cause of the leak or for
freeing up the float.
 
Thanks in advance,
 
Marty Romagni
1974 TR6
Painesville, OH

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Oct 11 15:34:49 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 14:34:49 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Door pulls
References: <122368381378112281@pm10.mailnet.ptd.net>
Message-ID: <005701c92be9$30454470$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

I have a 1970, no chrome door pulls, molded door pull on crash pad is all
there is.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "glc / crc" <glccrc at ptd.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, October 10, 2008 5:10 PM
Subject: [6pack] Door pulls


> Can anyone with a 1970 TR6 tell me if the chrome door pulls (danglers)
were
> stock, or was the moulded door pull in the window top crash pad the solo
way
> to pull the door shut?
>
> Original holes don't make sense, think PDO may have screwed them in where
> they looked good to him.
>
> Pic would be worth 1,000 words:)
>
> Almost back out with new paint and interior
>
> Should have an answer on 6" speakers tomorrow, I believe they were just
> installed but I only know what's in the headrest of the miata, some
> infiniti's.
>
> Tunes may hold me over until compression ups from the current 80 PSi :(
> Winter job.
>
> George Church
> 70 tr6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
> Database version: 5.10870e
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10870e
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From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sat Oct 11 14:10:11 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 13:10:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls and Stuck Float
Message-ID: <599143.94067.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The only door pulls on the 1970 TR 6 were the ones moulded into the top of the
door in the center next to the window.  The later cars had the pulls recessed
into the center of the doors which is a better location than on our 1970
models.  I don't know what year the change from the top to the center of the
door but it was after my car was built in mid 1970.
 
In regard to the stuck float.  If the measures you have tried don't work you
need to take the carb off and remove the float bowl.  You can then remove the
float and check to see if it has any fuel inside either side of the float
which could be the cause of your problem.  After that you should remove
the needle valve, blow out the orfice with air and check for obstructions.  I
don't see how the charcoal canister could cause the carb to overflow.
 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI. 1969 TR6-for sale

From jb_2email at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 12 00:12:16 2008
From: jb_2email at yahoo.com (J B)
Date: Sat, 11 Oct 2008 23:12:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls and Stuck Float
In-Reply-To: <599143.94067.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <332005.52160.qm@web57205.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

The door pulls sound like the type off of the TR4 and TR5/250. I bought a set for a different non TR car project. The PO may have added them.

JohnB
Chicago

74 TR6


--- On Sat, 10/11/08, michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com> wrote:

> From: michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
> Subject: [6pack] Door Pulls and Stuck Float
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Date: Saturday, October 11, 2008, 3:10 PM
> The only door pulls on the 1970 TR 6 were the ones moulded
> into the top of the
> door in the center next to the window.  The later cars had
> the pulls recessed
> into the center of the doors which is a better location
> than on our 1970
> models.  I don't know what year the change from the top
> to the center of the
> door but it was after my car was built in mid 1970.
>  
> In regard to the stuck float.  If the measures you have
> tried don't work you
> need to take the carb off and remove the float bowl.  You
> can then remove the
> float and check to see if it has any fuel inside either
> side of the float
> which could be the cause of your problem.  After that you
> should remove
> the needle valve, blow out the orfice with air and check
> for obstructions.  I
> don't see how the charcoal canister could cause the
> carb to overflow.
>  
> Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI. 1969 TR6-for sale
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as jb_2email at yahoo.com

From wcwellbaum at cox.net  Sun Oct 12 14:53:11 2008
From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 13:53:11 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hageman Jag and Jay Leno
Message-ID: <653781292F2A433E9D3E47CD3E92FBE3@office>

Great footage of a little known Jag derivative.  Compliments of a fellow
Norton owner.

Bill Wellbaum
British Auto Club of Las Vegas

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sun Oct 12 17:52:15 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 13:52:15 -1000
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt
Message-ID: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>

Aloha all,

I have removed all of the bolts holding body tub to the frame but one.  The
passenger side on the rear deck is recessed and went in at an angle so the
washer underneath prevents the socket from getting a good bite.  I have
completely rounded over the edges in my frustration.  I've tried vise grips
but can't get a good hold.  Any ideas on how to remove this #$&^% off?

Thanks,

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI

From fishplate at charter.net  Sun Oct 12 18:33:14 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 20:33:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt
In-Reply-To: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
References: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
Message-ID: <20081013003316.GNOX3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 07:52 PM 10/12/2008, Mark wrote:

>I have removed all of the bolts holding body tub to the frame but one.  The
>passenger side on the rear deck is recessed and went in at an angle so the
>washer underneath prevents the socket from getting a good bite.  I have
>completely rounded over the edges in my frustration.  I've tried vise grips
>but can't get a good hold.  Any ideas on how to remove this #$&^% off?

I assume your goal is to remove the tub...

First thought:  Can you get a drill to it?  If so, you can 
center-punch the bolt head and drill it out with a bit equal to the 
bolt diameter...  This will allow the body to be lifted off the stem 
of the bolt, where you can work on getting it out.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Oct 12 18:36:27 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 19:36:27 -0500
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt
References: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
Message-ID: <002501c92ccd$1163c9c0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

sears used to make, or maybe still does, a "socket" set that you can use. 
its got reverse-threading inside the socket that bites into the bolt as you 
turn it.  contact me offline if you want a picture or more info.


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark" <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com>
To: "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 6:52 PM
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt


> Aloha all,
>
> I have removed all of the bolts holding body tub to the frame but one. 
> The
> passenger side on the rear deck is recessed and went in at an angle so the
> washer underneath prevents the socket from getting a good bite.  I have
> completely rounded over the edges in my frustration.  I've tried vise 
> grips
> but can't get a good hold.  Any ideas on how to remove this #$&^% off?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Bullard
> '74 TR6
> Kailua, HI 

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sun Oct 12 18:59:16 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 20:59:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt
References: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
Message-ID: <4B2E172E6FE64A6182FDCD217A983AC1@alan>

Irwin make a socket set for getting rounded off bolts out.
Works pretty good.
I got mine from Northern tools, but they're available at Lowes and others 
too.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark" <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com>
To: "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 7:52 PM
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt


> Aloha all,
>
> I have removed all of the bolts holding body tub to the frame but one. 
> The
> passenger side on the rear deck is recessed and went in at an angle so the
> washer underneath prevents the socket from getting a good bite.  I have
> completely rounded over the edges in my frustration.  I've tried vise 
> grips
> but can't get a good hold.  Any ideas on how to remove this #$&^% off?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Bullard
> '74 TR6
> Kailua, HI
> _______________________________________________

From hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net  Sun Oct 12 19:30:11 2008
From: hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net (Hugh R McAleer)
Date: Sun, 12 Oct 2008 21:30:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt
In-Reply-To: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
References: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
Message-ID: <99A7A653ED7049669B831B511402DC3B@FoxconnPC>

Cut off the head of the bolt with a Zizz (?) wheel or grinder.  I removed a 
body from a '74 a few weeks ago and had to grind a couple buggered up bolts.

Then use lots of PB Blaster or similar and either use an easy out or drill 
it out and re-tap.

Hugh
HRMc
TR250 Owner and a couple of Stags
Zebulon, GA
Newsletter Editor
Georgia Triumph Association


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark" <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com>
To: "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, October 12, 2008 7:52 PM
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt


> Aloha all,
>
> I have removed all of the bolts holding body tub to the frame but one. 
> The
> passenger side on the rear deck is recessed and went in at an angle so the
> washer underneath prevents the socket from getting a good bite.  I have
> completely rounded over the edges in my frustration.  I've tried vise 
> grips
> but can't get a good hold.  Any ideas on how to remove this #$&^% off?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Bullard
> '74 TR6
> Kailua, HI

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Mon Oct 13 08:54:41 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 08:54:41 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Hood (the British meaning)
Message-ID: <CF09D07713BC4EBBAD01D17BF2EE4905@nmsu.edu>

<brag> It's beginning to be cold here in Las Cruces.  All the way down to 50
this morning! </brag>



I have a question about my hood (that's soft top to you Yanks), now that I'm
beginning to need it.  I put on a new one over the summer, and did a decent
job thanks to the collective help pf this group.  But I still have a
problem.  Can anyone explain to me, step by baby step, now to attach the
chrome latches?  I have mine on, but they don't look right.  As further
evidence that they are not right, I continue to break the little screw that
holds the handle to the little square stem as I latch and unlatch the top.



So, are the chrome handles supposed to curve upward or downward?  When
latched, should they be pointed towards to windows, or towards the rearview
mirror?



Help!  And Thanks!  And yes, step by baby step, Please!!



Kevin









L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA



New Mexico State University

505-646-2485

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Oct 13 11:43:51 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 10:43:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hood (the British meaning)
In-Reply-To: <CF09D07713BC4EBBAD01D17BF2EE4905@nmsu.edu>
References: <CF09D07713BC4EBBAD01D17BF2EE4905@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957304DE952@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Kevin:

        The chrome handles only fit on the hood one way with respect to the
curvature of the handles, at least on my 74-1/2 that is the way they work.
        The handles should point towards each other and the rear view mirror
when the hood is in use and latched in place. If you are breaking the handle
screws, then you are using the handles in an inappropriate manner (Are you
pulling down on the handles while seated in the car? - Naughty, NAUGHTY). If
you insist on doing it this way, get some grade 10 screws (black oxide finish)
to secure the handles. I recommend an alternate way to raise the hood,
however.

Vance's method to use the hood without breaking anything:

      1. Roll down both side windows, step out of the car and close the
doors.
      2. Remove the hood cover and stow it.
        3. Standing outside the car for this AND ALL SUBSEQUENT STEPS, raise
the hood halfway.
        4. Snap both rear quarter windows in place.
        5. Raise the hood as far as possible by gently pulling on the forward
hood edge.
        6. Rotate the latch handle to align the pin with the corresponding
slot on the windscreen header.
        7. Place one hand on the top of the forward hood bow, and reach in
through the window opening with the other, grasping the 3rd support bow with
your palm up.
        8. *Pull* the 3rd support bow firmly forward, while pressing down
GENTLY on the forward bow.
      9. When the latch pin slips into the windscreen header, hold down the
forward hood bow and move your  hand from the 3rd bow to the latch handle.
      10. Turn the latch handle towards the mirror to engage the latch.
      11. Move to the other side of the car, and repeat steps six through
ten.

        This works for me very well. If your car folds up like a cheap beach
chair while following this procedure or you blow out your back, you did
something wrong. =:-o

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kevin McNelis
Sent: Monday, October 13, 2008 7:55 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Hood (the British meaning)

<snip>

Can anyone explain to me, step by baby step, how to attach the
chrome latches?  I have mine on, but they don't look right.  As further
evidence that they are not right, I continue to break the little screw that
holds the handle to the little square stem as I latch and unlatch the top.

So, are the chrome handles supposed to curve upward or downward?  When
latched, should they be pointed towards to windows, or towards the rearview
mirror?

Help!  And Thanks!  And yes, step by baby step, Please!!

Kevin

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Oct 13 12:56:05 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 11:56:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Bearings for Southwick front hubs and Uncle Jack axels
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0810131156r24158ef7n9d67489f9ea3ea04@mail.gmail.com>

Can someone please tell me the timken[or other] inner and outer bearing
numbers required when using the Uncle Jack axles in the Southwick front
aluminum hobs?

Thanks

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Oct 13 17:32:51 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 13 Oct 2008 19:32:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] stripped bolt
In-Reply-To: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
References: <33B926DAEAC1451C9143E5FCC4A596B0@PamHome>
Message-ID: <200810131932.51750.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Sunday 12 October 2008 19:52:15 Mark wrote:
> Aloha all,
>
> I have removed all of the bolts holding body tub to the frame but one.  The
> passenger side on the rear deck is recessed and went in at an angle so the
> washer underneath prevents the socket from getting a good bite.  I have
> completely rounded over the edges in my frustration.  I've tried vise grips
> but can't get a good hold.  Any ideas on how to remove this #$&^% off?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Bullard
> '74 TR6
> Kailua, HI
> _______________________________________________
Mark,

I had 2 such bolts on my 74 TR6 I just separated.

I took my dremel out and turned the 1/2" bolt head into a 7/16 by carefully 
trimming the bolt and using a 6 point 7/16" socket. Lots of heat and pb 
blaster later was able to get the bolts out and into the garbage.

Bob

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Oct 15 19:22:13 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 21:22:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Goodparts Competition  Grade Springs
Message-ID: <48F69745.2090407@maine.rr.com>

Hey List;

Anybody out there installed the Goodparts competition grade springs on 
their Six? Richard's
catalog says it lowers the car an inch while raising the spring rates 
(28% in front, 34% in the rear).

Is it recommended to always do all four? What if I just did the front 
pair, would that be an issue?
Anyone got before and after photos? Mine's a '74 and I currently have 
stock height springs....
Any photos (especially before and after, and great if it's also a '74) 
would be super! Also,
before and after driving impressions: Was it worth the expense/effort?

Thanks, all!

Cheers,

Dave
'74-Six w/A-type OD and TBI
Maine

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 15 19:43:08 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 21:43:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Goodparts Competition  Grade Springs
In-Reply-To: <48F69745.2090407@maine.rr.com>
References: <48F69745.2090407@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <BAY123-W25BEC654127EE1B3E9E263BA330@phx.gbl>

I have / had them on my 72 TR6. I really like them. For street use I ran
205/65 tires and really liked the look. I would do front and back at the same
time though.

Marty



> Date: Wed, 15 Oct 2008 21:22:13 -0400
> From: forzion at maine.rr.com
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Goodparts Competition  Grade Springs
>
> Hey List;
>
> Anybody out there installed the Goodparts competition grade springs on
> their Six? Richard's
> catalog says it lowers the car an inch while raising the spring rates
> (28% in front, 34% in the rear).
>
> Is it recommended to always do all four? What if I just did the front
> pair, would that be an issue?
> Anyone got before and after photos? Mine's a '74 and I currently have
> stock height springs....
> Any photos (especially before and after, and great if it's also a '74)
> would be super! Also,
> before and after driving impressions: Was it worth the expense/effort?
>
> Thanks, all!
>
> Cheers,
>
> Dave
> '74-Six w/A-type OD and TBI
> Maine
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com

_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093185mrt/direct/01/

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Oct 16 00:14:23 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 06:14:23 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Goodparts Competition Grade Springs
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV8D07B23EE49B492205D9EF4330@phx.gbl>

David---The general rule for this is that raising the spring rate on the front end of the car will cause it to understeer when driving fast, thru corners. (The same thing applies to having only a front anti-roll bar, but with some flatter cornering benefits) If you only drive your car in a straight line, or take it easy in corners, there probably wouldn't be a penalty for going with stiffer front springs only. But then why do it? My vote is to replace all four corners with the stiffer springs, or leave them as is.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: David Friedlander
Sent: Wednesday, October 15, 2008 6:22 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Goodparts Competition Grade Springs

Hey List;

Anybody out there installed the Goodparts competition grade springs on 
their Six? Richard's
catalog says it lowers the car an inch while raising the spring rates 
(28% in front, 34% in the rear).

Is it recommended to always do all four? What if I just did the front 
pair, would that be an issue?
Anyone got before and after photos? Mine's a '74 and I currently have 
stock height springs....
Any photos (especially before and after, and great if it's also a '74) 
would be super! Also,
before and after driving impressions: Was it worth the expense/effort?

Thanks, all!

Cheers,

Dave
'74-Six w/A-type OD and TBI
Maine
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From TR at CoulterSystems.com  Thu Oct 16 09:02:33 2008
From: TR at CoulterSystems.com (TR at CoulterSystems.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 08:02:33 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Restoration server in Orange County California?
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV8D07B23EE49B492205D9EF4330@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV8D07B23EE49B492205D9EF4330@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004801c92fa0$3a44a5a0$aecdf0e0$@com>

Hi All,
We are finally considering some restoration work on our 73 TR6.
Does anyone have any opinion regarding Classic Showcase in Oceanside/Vista,
CA (or other similar they have worked with)?
We want to do a show/driver restoration.
It will require a body off frame restoration, and a bit or more of sheet
metal replacement as this is Missouri car - moderate rust - initially
acquired by my late father.  We've had 5 TR6's since '71 and even though we
realize we'll probably spend too much, this is the car and the time to do
it.
The engine will need a rebuild and conversion from the 4-speed to an 2000
saloon j-type overdrive.
I expect to get the frame, body, paint, hardtop and engine/drive
train/exhaust up to snuff then do the rest from there myself.
I've considered doing it all myself, but realize it would never be done and
the quality would not be there.

All thoughts, comments and suggestions are very much appreciated!

Gary Coulter
'73 CoolTR6
Laguna Niguel, CA
TR at CoulterSystems.com

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 16 12:18:08 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 11:18:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Competition Springs
Message-ID: <984552.22781.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I had TRF "uprated" springs on my car for a couple of years and found them to
be too stiff for my taste.  I guess the question really is what do you intend
to do with the car and what results are you seeking.  If you want to drive
fast and/or rally the Goodparts springs are probably the way to go.  If you're
looking for a comfortable ride on the highway go for the stock setup.  If
you're looking to lower your late model TR 6 to the height of the early 6s
there are other ways to do this withought going to the competition springs.
 
Mike Lunsford 1970 TR 6

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Thu Oct 16 13:14:48 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 15:14:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line
Message-ID: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>

Greetings list.  There has been quite a bit of discussion recently about 
TR6 engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of these 
cars is 36 years old.  Realizing the replacement line is made from 
finest British plastic, it seemed logical to make this line from 
stainless steel braid hose.  So, we did.  First production run is 
completed.  Introductory price is $24.95. Price will be good until 
November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95  Price does not include shipping.  
Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested.  Line fits late 
TR4, TR4A, TR250 and. TR6.  We make other stainless lines such as brake 
and clutch as  well as many other parts.  Please check our website when 
you have a chance.  Thanks for your time.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From davgil at aol.com  Thu Oct 16 14:47:29 2008
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 16:47:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
 line
In-Reply-To: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
Message-ID: <8CAFDE78A4C7AF9-DC4-1D91@MBLK-M01.sysops.aol.com>

Ted,
My 1976 TR6 is only 32 years?old and if I may say so, looks good for its age.? I take offense to the 36 years old comment, but agree that even these 32 year old parts could use some refurbishment from time to time.? Regards, David Gill

-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 3:14 pm
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line


Greetings list. There has been quite a bit of discussion recently about TR6 engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of these cars is 36 years old. Realizing the replacement line is made from finest British plastic, it seemed logical to make this line from stainless steel braid hose. So, we did. First production run is completed. Introductory price is $24.95. Price will be good until November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95 Price does not include shipping. Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested. Line fits late TR4, TR4A, TR250 and. TR6. We make other stainless lines such as brake and clutch as well as many other parts. Please check our website when you have a chance. Thanks for your time. Ted?
?
-- Ted Schumacher?
tedtsimx at bright.net?
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com?
108 S. Jefferson St.?
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877?
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)?
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)?
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022?
_______________________________________________?
?
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html?
?
6pack at autox.team.net?
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack?
?
http://www.team.net/archive?
?
You are subscribed as davgil at aol.com?

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 16 15:00:22 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 14:00:22 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
 line
In-Reply-To: <8CAFDE78A4C7AF9-DC4-1D91@MBLK-M01.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <643687.32938.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Old decrepit parts are what some over anal enthusiats refer to as "patina". As
in "It's orignial only once!", no matter how badly deteriorated a car is. In
another forum one chap advised me not to repair a rusty fender on my XJ12
because 'it would no longer be original.' Some people...
 
Jim

--- On Thu, 10/16/08, davgil at aol.com <davgil at aol.com> wrote:

From: davgil at aol.com <davgil at aol.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
line
To: tedtsimx at bright.net, 6pack at autox.team.net
Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008, 3:47 PM

Ted,
My 1976 TR6 is only 32 years?old and if I may say so, looks good for its
age.?
I take offense to the 36 years old comment, but agree that even these 32 year
old parts could use some refurbishment from time to time.? Regards, David
Gill

-----Original Message-----
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 3:14 pm
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line


Greetings list. There has been quite a bit of discussion recently about TR6
engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of these cars is 36
years old. Realizing the replacement line is made from finest British
plastic,
it seemed logical to make this line from stainless steel braid hose. So, we
did.
First production run is completed. Introductory price is $24.95. Price will
be
good until November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95 Price does not include
shipping.
Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested. Line fits late TR4,
TR4A, TR250 and. TR6. We make other stainless lines such as brake and clutch
as
well as many other parts. Please check our website when you have a chance.
Thanks for your time. Ted?
?
-- Ted Schumacher?
tedtsimx at bright.net?
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com?
108 S. Jefferson St.?
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877?
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)?
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)?
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022?
_______________________________________________?
?
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html?
?
6pack at autox.team.net?
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack?
?
http://www.team.net/archive?
?
You are subscribed as davgil at aol.com?
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Thu Oct 16 15:24:50 2008
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 17:24:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
 line
In-Reply-To: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
Message-ID: <6c7087cbeb78.48f778e2@wright.edu>

Cheeze!  If I replace that on my '70 then you're going to want me to replace
the radiator hoses too. I mean they're only 38.

----- Original Message -----
From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008 3:17 pm
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line
To: 6pack at autox.team.net, TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>

> Greetings list.  There has been quite a bit of discussion
> recently about
> TR6 engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of
> these
> cars is 36 years old.  Realizing the replacement line is
> made from
> finest British plastic, it seemed logical to make this line from
> stainless steel braid hose.  So, we did.  First
> production run is
> completed.  Introductory price is $24.95. Price will be
> good until
> November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95  Price does not
> include shipping. 
> Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested. 
> Line fits late
> TR4, TR4A, TR250 and. TR6.  We make other stainless lines
> such as brake
> and clutch as  well as many other parts.  Please check
> our website when
> you have a chance.  Thanks for your time.  Ted
>
> --
> Ted Schumacher
> tedtsimx at bright.net
> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
> 108 S. Jefferson St.
> Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
> Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
> Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
> Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Thu Oct 16 18:54:21 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 20:54:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
Message-ID: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net>

I interested in buying replacement seat belts from this company but the 
receiver stalks seem to be either to short 13" or to long 17.5". Can 
some one who has the securitron or similar replacements measure the 
stalk length from end to end (total length)
http://www.gotbelts.com/relapshwbuen.html

Thanks

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Oct 16 19:35:23 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 21:35:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] fender bolt
Message-ID: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

Does anyone know the proper name of the bolt that is used to attach the 
fenders on the TR6 front and rear fenders. Also used on the TR4 rear fenders?

I have looked at McMaster but cant find the bolt. The closest thing I could 
find is a lag bolt, but they say the application is wood so I figured it 
would be not strong enough + those bolts have a point.

I would prefer stainless for my 6 project.

Thanks,

Bob

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Oct 16 19:48:28 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 21:48:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] fender bolt
In-Reply-To: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <48F7EEEC.5030308@maine.rr.com>

Bob;

Moss calls them hex head acme thread bolts. Check out their page and 
diagram at
http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32845

Dave



Bob wrote:

>Hi,
>
>Does anyone know the proper name of the bolt that is used to attach the 
>fenders on the TR6 front and rear fenders. Also used on the TR4 rear fenders?
>
>I have looked at McMaster but cant find the bolt. The closest thing I could 
>find is a lag bolt, but they say the application is wood so I figured it 
>would be not strong enough + those bolts have a point.
>
>I would prefer stainless for my 6 project.
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Oct 16 19:51:27 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Thu, 16 Oct 2008 21:51:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net>
References: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <48F7EF9F.30908@maine.rr.com>

Mitch;

I bought belts that looked similar to those, then ended up sending them 
back. They looked cheap and I figured my neck is worth more than that. 
Pop for the Securons. They're available on eBay though they go for $149 
(Seller: Bluechips). Not an item to skimp on. Other listers prefer other 
brands, but I'm well satisfied with the Securons.....

Dave



Mitch wrote:

>I interested in buying replacement seat belts from this company but the 
>receiver stalks seem to be either to short 13" or to long 17.5". Can 
>some one who has the securitron or similar replacements measure the 
>stalk length from end to end (total length)
>http://www.gotbelts.com/relapshwbuen.html
>
>Thanks

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Oct 17 05:52:20 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 07:52:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
 line
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
  <6c7087cbeb78.48f778e2@wright.edu>
Message-ID: <000c01c9304e$d0324eb0$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Bill keep the hoses but may be new tires could help
those old red lines look a little funny on the sides


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "William McIntire" <william.mcintire at wright.edu>
To: "Ted Schumacher" <tedtsimx at bright.net>
Cc: "TR list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 5:24 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge 
line


> Cheeze!  If I replace that on my '70 then you're going to want me to 
> replace
> the radiator hoses too. I mean they're only 38.
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Ted Schumacher <tedtsimx at bright.net>
> Date: Thursday, October 16, 2008 3:17 pm
> Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge 
> line
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net, TR list <triumphs at autox.team.net>
>
>> Greetings list.  There has been quite a bit of discussion
>> recently about
>> TR6 engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of
>> these
>> cars is 36 years old.  Realizing the replacement line is
>> made from
>> finest British plastic, it seemed logical to make this line from
>> stainless steel braid hose.  So, we did.  First
>> production run is
>> completed.  Introductory price is $24.95. Price will be
>> good until
>> November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95  Price does not
>> include shipping.
>> Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested.
>> Line fits late
>> TR4, TR4A, TR250 and. TR6.  We make other stainless lines
>> such as brake
>> and clutch as  well as many other parts.  Please check
>> our website when
>> you have a chance.  Thanks for your time.  Ted
>>
>> --
>> Ted Schumacher
>> tedtsimx at bright.net
>> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
>> 108 S. Jefferson St.
>> Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
>> Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
>> Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
>> Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Fri Oct 17 05:54:42 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 07:54:42 -0400
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <48F7EF9F.30908@maine.rr.com>
References: <48F7E23D.4000007@optonline.net>
  <48F7EF9F.30908@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <48F87D02.6080000@optonline.net>

Hi Dave,

I have seen & been warned of some of the lower quality sets on the 
market. This company does not seem to be any of the ones I followed up 
on. Their male end that goes in to the stalk looks like it will fit the 
original seat belt parkers as well. The most popular low end set like 
this eBay  item 230300304082 . I have not heard anything good about those.

I'll keep checking on this unit and see what I can find.

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net  Fri Oct 17 07:27:24 2008
From: patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net (Patrick Bloem)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 06:27:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] stainless steel oil pressure gauge
Message-ID: <81191.36917.qm@web81105.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I bought replacement line from NAPA for about $0.40/foot. Remove the ends from the old and heat the new ends in boiling water and they slip on with a bit of force, when cooled they hold tight to the barbed ends. May not be original or as racey looking as stainless but a lot cheaper and you can set the length yourself. Don't know the resin source but doubt it is English.

Greetings list. There has been quite a bit of discussion recently about TR6
engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of these cars is 36
years old. Realizing the replacement line is made from finest British
plastic,
it seemed logical to make this line from stainless steel braid hose. So, we
did.

Jpat.
68 TR250
73 TR6
86 XJ6 VDP

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri Oct 17 09:32:53 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 11:32:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
Message-ID: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>

Mitch;

I wonder what percentage of people use those seat belt parkers, anyway. I didn't use them when I had my old seat belts installed and the new Securons retract so easily, I don't miss the parkers any.

There are places to economize and places not to. Safety, for me, is one where I don't.  Again, I'd opt for eBay 120318488551

Dave

---- Mitch <ms6453 at optonline.net> wrote: 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have seen & been warned of some of the lower quality sets on the 
> market. This company does not seem to be any of the ones I followed up 
> on. Their male end that goes in to the stalk looks like it will fit the 
> original seat belt parkers as well. The most popular low end set like 
> this eBay  item 230300304082 . I have not heard anything good about those.
> 
> I'll keep checking on this unit and see what I can find.
> 
> -- 
> Mitch Seff
> Oceanside, N.Y.
> 75 TR6 SC
> http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Oct 17 11:00:07 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:00:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810171256510.32544@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 17 Oct 2008 forzion at maine.rr.com wrote:

> Mitch;
>
> I wonder what percentage of people use those seat belt parkers, anyway. 
> I didn't use them when I had my old seat belts installed and the new 
> Securons retract so easily, I don't miss the parkers any.

Always the contrarian... I used to use my seat belt parkers all the time. 
One thing I really don't like about the replacement belts I got (Bemis? or 
something like that) is that you can't park them and the tongue is always 
getting jammed in the door when you try to close the door, so there's 50 
dings in the there.  Waddapane!

> There are places to economize and places not to. Safety, for me, is one 
> where I don't.  Again, I'd opt for eBay 120318488551

Agreed - old seat belts are as bad an idea as old tires. If you want to 
scrimp in either area, I can only say "It was nice knowing you".

:-0

> Dave

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lfm614 at aol.com  Fri Oct 17 11:01:35 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 17:01:35 +0000
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
Message-ID: <107797926-1224262899-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-697858023-@bxe135.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Dave,

Agree on the safety. I still have my Kangols that work fine (lock and retract) and I always use the parkers to keep from having to reach behind the seat for the belt. 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: forzion at maine.rr.com
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: Mitch
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: TR-6 list
Sent: Oct 17, 2008 10:32 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6

Mitch;

I wonder what percentage of people use those seat belt parkers, anyway. I didn't use them when I had my old seat belts installed and the new Securons retract so easily, I don't miss the parkers any.

There are places to economize and places not to. Safety, for me, is one where I don't.  Again, I'd opt for eBay 120318488551

Dave

---- Mitch <ms6453 at optonline.net> wrote: 
> Hi Dave,
> 
> I have seen & been warned of some of the lower quality sets on the 
> market. This company does not seem to be any of the ones I followed up 
> on. Their male end that goes in to the stalk looks like it will fit the 
> original seat belt parkers as well. The most popular low end set like 
> this eBay  item 230300304082 . I have not heard anything good about those.
> 
> I'll keep checking on this unit and see what I can find.
> 
> -- 
> Mitch Seff
> Oceanside, N.Y.
> 75 TR6 SC
> http://www.triumphowners.com/384
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Oct 17 11:08:57 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 17:08:57 +0000
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C9863B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I like and use the parkers and it stopped some of the complaints from the Mrs
who hated digging around behind the seat trying to find the belt and
untwisting it. I went to considerable trouble and expense to find belts that
fitted, that worked, did not look and feel like cheap junk and would fit into
the parkers.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 11:33 AM
To: Mitch
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-Pack email
Subject: Re: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6

Mitch;

I wonder what percentage of people use those seat belt parkers, anyway. I
didn't use them when I had my old seat belts installed and the new Securons
retract so easily, I don't miss the parkers any.

There are places to economize and places not to. Safety, for me, is one where
I don't.  Again, I'd opt for eBay 120318488551

Dave

From lee at automate-it.com  Fri Oct 17 12:53:32 2008
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 13:53:32 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] fender bolt
In-Reply-To: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200810162135.23828.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <2728.192.246.38.159.1224269612.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

Moss Motors has these listed on their web page at $0.80 each:

 322-655  	 $0.80
HEX HEAD ACME THREAD BOLT, fender to inner fender
Note: 	Included in Front Fender Fitting Kit.

But Moss doesn't tell you whether they have things in stock or not - when you
order you get to select "Backorder OK" or not.
 - Lee

> Does anyone know the proper name of the bolt that is used to attach the
> fenders on the TR6 front and rear fenders. Also used on the TR4 rear fenders?
>
> I have looked at McMaster but cant find the bolt. The closest thing I could
> find is a lag bolt, but they say the application is wood so I figured it
> would be not strong enough + those bolts have a point.
>
> I would prefer stainless for my 6 project.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Fri Oct 17 14:40:02 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 16:40:02 -0400
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810171256510.32544@isis.mit.edu>
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810171256510.32544@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <FD9B6D2BD6764BE595735F63620750B4@marcydesk>

One of the problems I have with the sercurons is most people like them 
because they are sold as direct replacements for the originals but do not 
fit the seat parker. The more important fact is that no where do they state 
they meet any US safety standards. The model/style I have selected 
specifically state they do. I would be more suspect of any brand that does 
not comply. If I'm using it to keep my butt safe I want to see that on the 
label.
"Meets Federal Motor Vehicle Safety Standards 209-302."

Realistically, I just use them so I don't get a summons. The reality is, I 
doubt they'll do much to stop British steel from crunching my bones or a 3 
ton SUV from plowing me under.


Mitch 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Fri Oct 17 15:42:15 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 17:42:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Battery Size Chart
Message-ID: <00b301c930a1$39b06820$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hello all,
Came across this chart of battery sizes by group reference number. Thought I
would share as general FYI.
http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html
Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A

From hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net  Fri Oct 17 17:59:02 2008
From: hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net (Hugh R McAleer)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 19:59:02 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
In-Reply-To: <20081006033212.31AFC18788B@autox.team.net>
References: <20081006033212.31AFC18788B@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <8006E32F47074EF48B51F42213C4BAE3@FoxconnPC>

Hello all, A friend, we'll call him Tom, has a J-type gearbox/overdrive unit 
and an A-type gearbox/overdrive unit.

Can an A-type overdrive unit be used with a J-type gearbox?

Thanks

Hugh
HRMc
TR250 Owner w/ thrust washers in the pan and a couple of Stags
Zebulon, GA
Newsletter Editor
Georgia Triumph Association

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Oct 17 20:02:16 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 17 Oct 2008 22:02:16 EDT
Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
Message-ID: <bca.372b9a96.362a9da8@aol.com>

I don't know why not.  I have put a J type overdrive on an A type  (TR4) 
gearbox, so it probably swings both ways.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************BUY Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull on DVD 
today! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1209326865x1200539441/aol?redir=http://www.indianajones.com/site/index.html)

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Oct 18 00:18:25 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 06:18:25 GMT
Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV13D19EFF6B2221F51734B5F42D0@phx.gbl>

It's my understanding that the main shaft in the trannies have a different spline configuration, so this shaft must be changed to match the OD unit. No?

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Hugh R McAleer
Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 4:59 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D

Hello all, A friend, we'll call him Tom, has a J-type gearbox/overdrive unit 
and an A-type gearbox/overdrive unit.

Can an A-type overdrive unit be used with a J-type gearbox?

Thanks

Hugh
HRMc
TR250 Owner w/ thrust washers in the pan and a couple of Stags
Zebulon, GA
Newsletter Editor
Georgia Triumph Association
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct 18 06:51:32 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 08:51:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
 line
In-Reply-To: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
Message-ID: <200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

Does anyone know how to order this part from Ted?

I went to his website and this new part is not listed.

I have emailed Ted directly to ask for instructions and there is no reply.

Thanks,

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Sat Oct 18 06:56:48 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 08:56:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] jack question
In-Reply-To: <200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
	<200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <200810180856.48606.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

The jack that came with my 72 project is a scissors type jack sort of smallish 
and is painted a light blue.

Question is: Is it an original?

Thanks,

Bob

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Sat Oct 18 07:18:16 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 13:18:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C9863B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C9863B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W161BEA48CE7CEED2E683548E2D0@phx.gbl>

Would someone kindly tell me what a seat belt 'parker' is?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Store, manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live SkyDrive.
http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_
102008

From Vsnively at aol.com  Sat Oct 18 07:34:09 2008
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:34:09 EDT
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
Message-ID: <bfd.44c2c0b6.362b3fd1@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/18/2008 9:18:24 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:

Would someone kindly tell me what a seat belt 'parker'  is?

thanks,
Sloane  :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Store,  manage and share up to 5GB with Windows Live  SkyDrive.
http://skydrive.live.com/welcome.aspx?provision=1?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_skydrive_
102008
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) 


 
 





Sloane,
 
  It's a plastic molded pocket/receiver that's screwed to the interior  
rockers to accept the male spade portion of the seat belt.  It provides an unused 
seat belt a place to "park", giving the interior  a clean, organized look vs. 
having the belts lay on the seat or floor, or  fall down between the seat and 
rocker. If you view the "parked" belt with the  doors open, you will see the 
belt run from the retractor to the "parker" at a  45-degree (?) angle. If you 
open the door, and they are present in your car,  they will be around the 
halfway point of the door jamb on the interior  side.
  These must be commonly missing from a lot of cars. A local TR6  collector 
commented at a recent show "Wow, seat belt parkers !" I would surmise  no one 
uses them or they are missing, or perhaps they were installed on later  models 
??
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6 w/AC
 

Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC

**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.  
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out 
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sat Oct 18 07:54:26 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:54:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV13D19EFF6B2221F51734B5F42D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV13D19EFF6B2221F51734B5F42D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48F9EA92.1060508@roadrunner.com>

That's correct, Dick. Different mainshafts to fit either A or J. The 
mainshaft must also match the style of gears in the gearbox you wish to use.

Jim Franks

Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
> It's my understanding that the main shaft in the trannies have a different spline configuration, so this shaft must be changed to match the OD unit. No?
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Hugh R McAleer
> Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 4:59 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
>
> Hello all, A friend, we'll call him Tom, has a J-type gearbox/overdrive unit 
> and an A-type gearbox/overdrive unit.
>
> Can an A-type overdrive unit be used with a J-type gearbox?
>
> Thanks
>
> Hugh

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat Oct 18 07:52:49 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:52:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
 line
In-Reply-To: <200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
	<200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <48F9EA31.9070900@bright.net>

Bob and all.  Product has not made it to website as of yet.  To order, 
call our 800#, fax or email with credit card details adn shipping 
address.  Thanks for the great response. Ted

Bob wrote:
> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know how to order this part from Ted?
>
> I went to his website and this new part is not listed.
>
> I have emailed Ted directly to ask for instructions and there is no reply.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.173 / Virus Database: 270.8.1/1731 - Release Date: 10/17/2008 7:01 PM
>
>   


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Sat Oct 18 08:15:50 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 10:15:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W161BEA48CE7CEED2E683548E2D0@phx.gbl>
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C9863B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<BLU118-W161BEA48CE7CEED2E683548E2D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48F9EF96.9070407@optonline.net>

Seat belt parkers are a plastic housing mounted to the inner rocker 
panel over the carpet just to the side of the seat. When you removed the 
seat belt from cars fitted with 3 point retractable belts, rather than 
dropping the belt along side the seat you would snap the male end of the 
belt into the plastic receiver to keep it in a comfortable position to 
use it again. This avoided the problem that Bob mentioned of getting the 
buckle caught in the door and causing chips & dents. It was also 
supposed to keep the belt from fully retracting behind the seat. That 
was never a problem though, because TR seat belts never fully retracted  
:-)

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Oct 18 08:46:18 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 14:46:18 +0000
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <48F9EF96.9070407@optonline.net>
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C9863B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<BLU118-W161BEA48CE7CEED2E683548E2D0@phx.gbl>
	<48F9EF96.9070407@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F3F5@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Here's a picture of a parked belt, url may get wrapped by the mailer.



http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Seat%20Belts/?action=vie
w&current=ParkedBelt.jpg







-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mitch
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 10:16 AM
To: im sloane
Cc: 6-Pack email
Subject: Re: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6



Seat belt parkers are a plastic housing mounted to the inner rocker

panel over the carpet just to the side of the seat. When you removed the

seat belt from cars fitted with 3 point retractable belts, rather than

dropping the belt along side the seat you would snap the male end of the

belt into the plastic receiver to keep it in a comfortable position to

use it again. This avoided the problem that Bob mentioned of getting the

buckle caught in the door and causing chips & dents. It was also

supposed to keep the belt from fully retracting behind the seat. That

was never a problem though, because TR seat belts never fully retracted

:-)



--

Mitch Seff

Oceanside, N.Y.

75 TR6 SC

http://www.triumphowners.com/384

_______________________________________________

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Oct 18 08:57:27 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 10:57:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV13D19EFF6B2221F51734B5F42D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV13D19EFF6B2221F51734B5F42D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <48F9F957.5040800@maine.rr.com>

Hugh;

On the other hand, I have an A-type OD on my '74 ! Runs great!

Dave



Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

>It's my understanding that the main shaft in the trannies have a different spline configuration, so this shaft must be changed to match the OD unit. No?
>
>Dick
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: Hugh R McAleer
>Sent: Friday, October 17, 2008 4:59 PM
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
>
>Hello all, A friend, we'll call him Tom, has a J-type gearbox/overdrive unit 
>and an A-type gearbox/overdrive unit.
>
>Can an A-type overdrive unit be used with a J-type gearbox?
>
>Thanks
>
>Hugh
>HRMc
>TR250 Owner w/ thrust washers in the pan and a couple of Stags
>Zebulon, GA
>Newsletter Editor
>Georgia Triumph Association
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net
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From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Oct 18 11:59:12 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 10:59:12 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Stromberg fuel bowls
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C9863B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<BLU118-W161BEA48CE7CEED2E683548E2D0@phx.gbl>
	<48F9EF96.9070407@optonline.net>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F3F5@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <002f01c9314b$3a7a4690$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello List,
I'll be going into a Stromberg for o-ring leak.
Do the new fuel bowl gaskets (TRF) go on au natural or is a "goop"
recommended?
Thank you.
Regards,
Bob





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From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Oct 18 09:05:04 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 11:05:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Battery Size Chart
In-Reply-To: <00b301c930a1$39b06820$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <00b301c930a1$39b06820$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <48F9FB20.8070205@maine.rr.com>

Thanks, Alex! That's a handy guide.

Speaking of car batteries, are our Sixes designed to run using Group 34 
style batteries?

Dave



Alex wrote:

>Hello all,
>Came across this chart of battery sizes by group reference number. Thought I
>would share as general FYI.
>http://www.rtpnet.org/~teaa/bcigroup.html
>Alex Manzo
>72 TR6
>59 TR3A
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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>
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From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat Oct 18 09:48:09 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 09:48:09 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Stromberg fuel bowls
References: <12585481.340231224257573636.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web04-z02><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724C9863B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><BLU118-W161BEA48CE7CEED2E683548E2D0@phx.gbl><48F9EF96.9070407@optonline.net><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F3F5@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<002f01c9314b$3a7a4690$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <B30351A4D83D4A0082FDC9092CDD9090@rolofson>

No sealer is needed.  The gaskets are there only to keep the gas that sloshes
around from leaking out.  They aren't under pressure and the fuel level should
be below the gaskets in operation so they aren't expected to "hold" gas in the
chambers when standing still.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob
  To: Triumph 6 Pack
  Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 11:59 AM
  Subject: [6pack] Stromberg fuel bowls


  Hello List,
  I'll be going into a Stromberg for o-ring leak.
  Do the new fuel bowl gaskets (TRF) go on au natural or is a "goop"
  recommended?
  Thank you.
  Regards,
  Bob





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From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Oct 18 10:33:34 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 12:33:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Starting Question
References: <20081018160346.NLSQ2525.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <017d01c9313f$4487a210$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Thanks to  Randall and John Herrera. Tapped on the starter switch with a 
brass hammer and bingo. I must admit the car sat most of the summer so that 
could be why it was stuck. But on a side note. I had purchased one of those 
Vintage batteries out of Ohio (?) for this car. One year quarantine and your 
right arm. But they look great. Anyhow, one day the battery was dead so I 
gave it a quick charge. Worked fine except the next day is was dead again. 
Put it on an overnight charge. Next morning the battery was dead, and would 
not take a charge. The charger needle went to full right and just appeared 
to short out, charger overloaded. Opened the caps and guess what. hmmmm no 
electrolyte, water, nadda. Talk about DPO, how about DCO (current). Did try 
to add water and charge, same thing, nadda. Today went out and got a battery 
for it. But before I put it in I looked at the Vintage style battery once 
again. The plates were moist and not totally dry. Just so happened I had 
some battery acid left over from the initial charge. So I filled it with 
straight acid with the hope I could save this battery. Well, put the charger 
on it and it is taking a nice charge in all cells. I'll keep you posted. 
This is beyond my understanding. :o) Thanks again to Randall and John.
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Randall" <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>
To: "'Triumph List'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 12:03 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Starting Question


>> Upon connecting the cables, I quickly
>> discovered that the car turned over on it's own with the
>> ignition key off. First blush is a bad ignition switch or
>> solenoid/starter switch. Any thoughts appreciated.
>
> Doubt it's the switches, since both the ignition switch and the starter
> switch would both have to have failed closed.  So I would be looking at 
> the
> solenoid first.  To double-check, you can remove the small wire from the
> solenoid and try again.
>
> Randall
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
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>
> You are subscribed as ambritts at bellsouth.net
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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Oct 18 12:30:30 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 18:30:30 GMT
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV77A2C6703BE07E7147053F42D0@phx.gbl>

Sloan---Early TRs that had only the lap belt didn't have these parkers. They are on the later TRs with the three point harness.

DT


-----Original Message-----
From: im sloane
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 6:18 AM
To: 6-Pack email
Subject: Re: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6

Would someone kindly tell me what a seat belt 'parker' is?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Oct 18 12:45:36 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 18:45:36 GMT
Subject: [6pack] jack question
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV84BC19EF6171713D764F2F42D0@phx.gbl>

Bob---The scissor jack that came with my '73 was also a light blue in color.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 5:56 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] jack question

The jack that came with my 72 project is a scissors type jack sort of smallish 
and is painted a light blue.

Question is: Is it an original?

Thanks,

Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

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From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Sat Oct 18 14:14:43 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 16:14:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 1 hour TR2 Jabbeke Speed trials
Message-ID: <020501c9315e$2b363730$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Don't know how many have seen this but I just found it myself. It's a 1 hour
video of the Jabbeke TR2 Speed trials held on May 20, 1953. I have only seen 6
minutes of it has I am trying to get my TR3 up to speed today. LOL  So if you
have not seen it enjoy. Appears things were a little different back then.

http://www.leechvideo.com/video/view452802.html

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Oct 18 17:43:18 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 18:43:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] tr6 fuel line
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
Message-ID: <000201c9317b$4d84ff70$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

hi, all.

a few weeks ago the fuel pump failed on the way back from TRials. 
fortunately, i had an electric that i plumbed in place, and made it home 
just fine.

today, just a few blocks from home, the used replacement someone gave me 
also failed.

coincidence?  maybe.

problems in the fuel line - probably.

so, my plan of attack is to pull the tank, have it refurbished, and replace 
the entire fuel line.

i see moss does not sell the line.  it seems to me that the several piece 
approach held together by rubber hose is, well, lacking in design.

i think it makes more sense to put in one tube.  anyone know how much i 
need?  i can bend it and terminate it myself.

thanks!

and, btw, a friend replaced his with stainless steel.  isn't that overkill? 

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Oct 18 17:56:51 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 19:56:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] tr6 fuel line
In-Reply-To: <000201c9317b$4d84ff70$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
	<000201c9317b$4d84ff70$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <48FA77C3.8060703@maine.rr.com>

Oliver;

Are you planning to replace everything from the tank to the carbs or 
just from the pump
to the carbs? Are you going to use your electric pump or revert to a 
mechanical pump.
There's nothing wrong with rubber hose if you use the right type of line 
(after all, these
cars have run pretty well for years using rubber tubing).  Steel can 
have some advantages
but there's a bit of bending work involved.

A good bet, going forward, is to keep your tank and filter(s) clean, 
replacing the latter yearly...
I just replaced my entire fuel line, running fuel injection hose after 
the pump, but other than
that, it's regular rubber fuel line hose from the tank to the carbs [or, 
in my case, throttle bodies].
Stainless seems to be overkill, to me...

Dave


Oliver wrote:

> hi, all.
>
> a few weeks ago the fuel pump failed on the way back from TRials. 
> fortunately, i had an electric that i plumbed in place, and made it 
> home just fine.
>
> today, just a few blocks from home, the used replacement someone gave 
> me also failed.
>
> coincidence?  maybe.
>
> problems in the fuel line - probably.
>
> so, my plan of attack is to pull the tank, have it refurbished, and 
> replace the entire fuel line.
>
> i see moss does not sell the line.  it seems to me that the several 
> piece approach held together by rubber hose is, well, lacking in design.
>
> i think it makes more sense to put in one tube.  anyone know how much 
> i need?  i can bend it and terminate it myself.
>
> thanks!
>
> and, btw, a friend replaced his with stainless steel.  isn't that 
> overkill? _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Oct 18 20:27:18 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 18 Oct 2008 22:27:18 EDT
Subject: [6pack] A O/D with a J O/D
Message-ID: <bf1.3e3538a7.362bf506@aol.com>

As I posted earlier I took a J type with the specific mainshaft that  matched 
the J Type and installed it in my TR4 tranny that happens to be in my  TR3A.  
Other than the differences that Dick points out, the whole thing  went 
together quite nicely.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************BUY Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull on DVD 
today! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1209326865x1200539441/aol?redir=http://www.indianajones.com/site/index.html)

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Sun Oct 19 09:19:40 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 18:19:40 +0300
Subject: [6pack] jack question
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV84BC19EF6171713D764F2F42D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV84BC19EF6171713D764F2F42D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <e343023f0810190819n23c47aferc48b2a17f565b177@mail.gmail.com>

I have a '75 with a smallish scissor jack painted light blue too, if that's
any help.
Bob

On Sat, Oct 18, 2008 at 9:45 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor
<tr6taylor at webtv.net>wrote:

> Bob---The scissor jack that came with my '73 was also a light blue in
> color.
>
> Dick
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Bob
> Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 5:56 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] jack question
>
> The jack that came with my 72 project is a scissors type jack sort of
> smallish
> and is painted a light blue.
>
> Question is: Is it an original?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net
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From mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net  Sun Oct 19 10:15:55 2008
From: mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net (Martin Romagni)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 09:15:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Leaky card - part II
Message-ID: <832643.4444.qm@web83606.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hey everyone,

Took a look through the archives and I
think I may have a
first. Recall my posts last week where I had a
leaky carb. Tried  a few
things, but ended up taking the carbs off
the car. So today, I removed the
float bowl to get at the problem.
When I went to pry the float loose to test
it, the steel clip that
holds the float came off too  yikes! It appears that
the PO, had
glued the steel clip in place.

Here is the picture
http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/romagnim/?action=view&current=CIMG104
8.jpg

So it looks like my choices are to 1)
throw out that carb and replace
it with another or can I glue
that clip back in place? I was thinking of
using JB Weld to glue it
back.

Thoughts and thanks in advance?


Marty

From TR6UO at aol.com  Sun Oct 19 12:14:29 2008
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 14:14:29 EDT
Subject: [6pack] jack question
Message-ID: <cfc.45d5bdd9.362cd305@aol.com>

Bob,
My '72 has the original jack, a light blue scissor-type. 
 
Steve
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From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 19 14:10:00 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 13:10:00 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Leaky Carb Part 2
Message-ID: <74261.53959.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Just toss out the old carb float and buy a new one.  That's the simplest way
to do it.
 
Mike Lunsford 

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From PeterSchop at aol.com  Sun Oct 19 14:22:17 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 16:22:17 EDT
Subject: [6pack] new clutch
Message-ID: <c00.46d16811.362cf0f9@aol.com>

Since the trans is readily accessible right now, I have decided to  renew the 
clutch on my six even though it worked fine, smooth, no slip and  not too 
heavy. Not knowing what I would find when I opened it up, I picked up a  slightly 
used Laycock Sheffield pressure plate and disk. I had the disk relined.  I 
also picked up a new TR4 cross shaft with grease fittings, larger TR4  bushings, 
new fork secured with split pin and modified heavy duty tapered  pin. I also 
bought a Gunst throw out bearing.
 
Now that I opened it up, I find that the car has the early Borg &  Beck 
pressure plate and disk measuring  .270", and a RHP TOB. Both the  TOB and the 
fingers on the plate show quite noticeable wear. The  surprise is that the clutch 
fork is welded to the cross shaft. The shaft rotates  easily and has very 
little up and down movement.
 
I have decided to leave the cross shaft with fork welded to it in the bell  
housing seeing that it is working fine and "if it ain't broke don't fix  it".  
I am also putting in the slightly used Laycock pressure plate  and relined 
disk and Gunst TOB. Any comments as to am I doing the right thing  before I put 
it all back together? I don't want to have to take it apart again  after it is 
on the road.
 
Should I have the flywheel resurfaced? Also, there was a lot of grease  where 
the TOB sleeve slides on the mainshaft. Is this necessary?
 
TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
TR6 '69
 
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.  
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out 
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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Oct 19 14:42:10 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 20:42:10 GMT
Subject: [6pack] new clutch
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV129B14F5FA64DF58BE3D6FF42C0@phx.gbl>

Peter---For sure, if the fork is securely welded to the operating shaft, there should be no issues with the pin breaking. Likely just as true when using the double pin method. Eventually, the outboard bushings will wear, and the shaft will have to be cut to remove it, to replace these bushings.

Resurface the flywheel if you can see any wear, as sometimes a change in the clutch disc OD will try riding on the "unused" part of the flywheel, causing slippage and grief.
Many owners like to lighten the 'wheel at this time. 

Some grease on the front cover is OK. I would wipe off what's there and use the grease supplied with the Gunst bearing and sleeve. Be sure this front cover has not worn to the point that will let the new sleeve sag. I like to see no more than .005 difference between the cover OD and the sleeve ID. Others say more clearance is necessary to keep these parts from  "sticking". I have found too much clearance leads to this bearing to run off center to the clutch, which can lead to squealling, or chirping.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 1:22 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] new clutch

Since the trans is readily accessible right now, I have decided to  renew the 
clutch on my six even though it worked fine, smooth, no slip and  not too 
heavy. Not knowing what I would find when I opened it up, I picked up a  slightly 
used Laycock Sheffield pressure plate and disk. I had the disk relined.  I 
also picked up a new TR4 cross shaft with grease fittings, larger TR4  bushings, 
new fork secured with split pin and modified heavy duty tapered  pin. I also 
bought a Gunst throw out bearing.
 
Now that I opened it up, I find that the car has the early Borg &  Beck 
pressure plate and disk measuring  .270", and a RHP TOB. Both the  TOB and the 
fingers on the plate show quite noticeable wear. The  surprise is that the clutch 
fork is welded to the cross shaft. The shaft rotates  easily and has very 
little up and down movement.
 
I have decided to leave the cross shaft with fork welded to it in the bell  
housing seeing that it is working fine and "if it ain't broke don't fix  it".  
I am also putting in the slightly used Laycock pressure plate  and relined 
disk and Gunst TOB. Any comments as to am I doing the right thing  before I put 
it all back together? I don't want to have to take it apart again  after it is 
on the road.
 
Should I have the flywheel resurfaced? Also, there was a lot of grease  where 
the TOB sleeve slides on the mainshaft. Is this necessary?
 
TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
TR6 '69
 
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.  
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From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun Oct 19 15:39:41 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 21:39:41 +0000
Subject: [6pack] 1 hour TR2 Jabbeke Speed trials
In-Reply-To: <020501c9315e$2b363730$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <020501c9315e$2b363730$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72724CB1F443@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Thanks for the reminder. I have seen this before (It first appeared in 2006 in
a post in one of the TR Register forums) but I had forgotten about it and it
was always my intention to grab a copy of the video as stuff has a tendency to
evaporate over time and there is some great TR footage in addition to the
historic Jabbeke speed run.

The cameraman and producer has a web site with a lot of cool stuff including
the instructions for downloading this video using Bittorrent.

http://www.risevideo.de/index.php?news_seite=3&kategorie=alles

You will need to install the bittorrent client,

http://www.bittorrent.com

Then click on the link in the Reisevideo website above to download the video
and probably install the open source XVID codec (windows or Mac)
http://www.xvidmovies.com/codec/

The 700mb download took about an hour over my fios connection, Bit torrent is
very efficient.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Alex
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 4:15 PM
To: Sixpack; Triumph List
Subject: [6pack] 1 hour TR2 Jabbeke Speed trials

Don't know how many have seen this but I just found it myself. It's a 1 hour
video of the Jabbeke TR2 Speed trials held on May 20, 1953. I have only seen
6
minutes of it has I am trying to get my TR3 up to speed today. LOL  So if you
have not seen it enjoy. Appears things were a little different back then.

http://www.leechvideo.com/video/view452802.html
_______________________________________________

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Oct 19 15:45:16 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 17:45:16 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Leaky card - part II
Message-ID: <c25.4a28c284.362d046c@aol.com>

IMHO, JB Weld is misnamed.  It should be called JB Gap Filler.  I  have never 
had any success with connecting two pieces of metal together with the  stuff, 
however, it sticks to metal nicely should it not be required to  "weld".  Now 
if you were repairing a crack, that's a different  story.  I would go another 
route and find another carb body if you cannot  repair this by some other 
method.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************BUY Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull on DVD 
today! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1209326865x1200539441/aol?redir=http://www.indianajones.com/site/index.html)

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun Oct 19 16:05:54 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 15:05:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height of late model TR 6
Message-ID: <104332.18297.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Listers,
 
Dave Friedlander and I have been discussing off net how to get his late model
6 to sit as low as the earlier 6.  Obviously the shorter stiffer or "uprated"
springs will probably accomplish this but Dave wants to keep the softer ride
he has with the stock setup.  It seems like we discussed how the height of the
late model sixes was raised to meet the change in the bumper height
regulations that began in 73 or 74.  Except for shorter springs that don't
seem to be available in the stock spring rate and Goodparts adjustable
trailing arm brackets (which don't address the ride height in front) I am out
of ideas.  Does anyone out there have any ideas?
 
Mike Lunsford, Early TR 6 so I haven't had to deal with this problem.
Tired of
spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com

From triosan at gmail.com  Sun Oct 19 17:59:26 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 16:59:26 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height of late model TR 6
In-Reply-To: <104332.18297.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <104332.18297.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0810191659x54474253o911a49be4a7ccbe3@mail.gmail.com>

You can always try taking the springs out,putting them in a spring
compressor and compressing them an inch or so, then while  compressed,
baking them at 500 degrees for  30 minutes.  Let them cool,then decompress.
They willbe an inch shorter with the same rate as before. Just do not
compress so much they get too short during use.

On Sun, Oct 19, 2008 at 3:05 PM, michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>wrote:

> Listers,
>
> Dave Friedlander and I have been discussing off net how to get his late
> model
> 6 to sit as low as the earlier 6.  Obviously the shorter stiffer or
> "uprated"
> springs will probably accomplish this but Dave wants to keep the softer
> ride
> he has with the stock setup.  It seems like we discussed how the height of
> the
> late model sixes was raised to meet the change in the bumper height
> regulations that began in 73 or 74.  Except for shorter springs that don't
> seem to be available in the stock spring rate and Goodparts adjustable
> trailing arm brackets (which don't address the ride height in front) I am
> out
> of ideas.  Does anyone out there have any ideas?
>
> Mike Lunsford, Early TR 6 so I haven't had to deal with this problem.
> Tired of
> spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 19 20:47:32 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 21:47:32 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height of late model TR 6
Message-ID: <19377697.1224470853020.JavaMail.root@elwamui-royal.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Mike and Dave,

I would suggest using the shorter albeit stiffer springs with the original rubber bushings.  This would give a softer ride than using the urethane or nylatron bushings.  Unless others know how to lower the 6 another method. One could use the earlier rear springs on the later model and change the trailing arm mounts to the earlier configuration to lower the rear.   Triumph Tune has standard springs front tt4001 390 lbs/in fitted length 6.65"and rear tt4212 420 lbs/in fitted length 8.65" and lowered springs front tt4201 420 lbs/in 6.5" and rear tt4216 420 lbs/in 8.65" .  just 2 cents worth,  greg perry

From rnorris1 at swbell.net  Sun Oct 19 21:37:07 2008
From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris)
Date: Sun, 19 Oct 2008 22:37:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Leaky carb - Part II
Message-ID: <48FBFCE3.3080400@swbell.net>

Martin, the same thing happened to me and I received advice on the list 
to have a couple of holes drilled and tapped. I cannot recall the size 
screw other than that they were small. I was instructed to use Loctite, 
blue I seem to recall, on assembly. At any rate, I did as instructed and 
it's worked with no problems for over a year now. I wish I could tell 
you more specifically but it's been a while.  Good luck!

Rick Norris

From saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk  Mon Oct 20 00:18:21 2008
From: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk (Derek)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 07:18:21 +0100
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
Message-ID: <AEA8DAD283B14AB5B363CB8A3D0BA188@TR6>

Fellow listers,

 

Does anyone have any details, commission numbers etc, of the two unused TR6
owned by Paretti Jaguar in Baton Rouge. They were mentioned by TR6Bill on
the 6-pack website forum.

 

Cheers

 

Derek 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Oct 20 00:57:16 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 06:57:16 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height of late model TR 6
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV10F2AFE5E3712EB71DAB76F42F0@phx.gbl>

Mike---There are shade tree ways to lower the ride height, but first is should be known that in the rear, the suspension travel is sort of short, as is. If one was to keep the softer spring rate and shorten it, the suspension would easily bottom out, and we don't want that.
 Yes, alterations could be made to the bump stop and bump rubber, to get some of this movement back.

Nor do we want the front to run out of spring, for handling reasons. It is said that the lower control arms can be turned upsidedown, which lowers the spring perch, thus lowering the car. Haven't gone this route myself, but it looks do-able. This method should allow the use of stock springs, while lowering the front of the  car, maybe an inch?

Stiffer, shorter springs are the better way to go here. If one insists on "shortening" the stock springs, it could also be done with the springs in place, with a torch. Place blocks of something under the car frame at the corners, at the height you want the car to be lowered to, plus an inch. As the spring(s) sag with torch heat, the blocks will stop its decent. When things cool, remove the blocks. If still too high, repeat with lower blocks.   This is what we did as kids, with our coil sprung front ends!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: michael lunsford
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 3:05 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height of late model TR 6

Listers,
 
Dave Friedlander and I have been discussing off net how to get his late model
6 to sit as low as the earlier 6.  Obviously the shorter stiffer or "uprated"
springs will probably accomplish this but Dave wants to keep the softer ride
he has with the stock setup.  It seems like we discussed how the height of the
late model sixes was raised to meet the change in the bumper height
regulations that began in 73 or 74.  Except for shorter springs that don't
seem to be available in the stock spring rate and Goodparts adjustable
trailing arm brackets (which don't address the ride height in front) I am out
of ideas.  Does anyone out there have any ideas?
 
Mike Lunsford, Early TR 6 so I haven't had to deal with this problem.
Tired of
spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Oct 20 04:54:25 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 06:54:25 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height of late model TR 6
Message-ID: <c17.4a6a6b90.362dbd61@aol.com>

Dick,
Metallurgically speaking, what does this do to the springs? 
Incendiarily speaking, do you have to remove the gas tank?   (wink) 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************BUY Indiana Jones and the Kingdom of the Crystal Skull on DVD 
today! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1209326865x1200539441/aol?redir=http://www.indianajones.com/site/index.html)

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Oct 20 05:28:01 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 07:28:01 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height of late model TR 6
In-Reply-To: <104332.18297.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <104332.18297.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810200717500.26716@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I have never done this, but the Fred Puhn book "how to make your car 
handle" suggests that you can make a spring compressor to squeeze your 
spring to a shorter height and then bake it in a low-ish temp oven for an 
hour or two and the spring takes the new dimension (plus or minus a bit). 
Unfortunately, you need to experiment with the results, so you might wind 
up tossing a few springs in the ash bin before you "get it right".

But using this method you could shorted stock springs, at least in theory.

The one drawback to this method is that if you bake it too hot you'll ruin 
the temper of the metal and the spring rate goes out the window. Oh and 
any paint on the spring will turn to acrid smoke, so don't do this in the 
kichen.

I would, however caution that with the lowered springs at the stock rate 
that bottoming the suspension is a lot more likely if not an absolute 
certainty. That winds up being a safety issue, in my mind because most 
folks can't deal with abrupt transistions in a stock car and bottoming 
changes your spring rate to infinity and you haven't lived 'till you 
wind up in a snap spin when you bottom the suspension in the rear. Been 
there, etc. There's also the issue of cracking/breaking things when the 
forces involved need to be redistributed somewhere else.

Believe it or not, the lengths and rates of the stuff out there as 
replacement parts have been carefully considered and what's out there is 
pretty good in all regards.

Have fun deciding!
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Oct 20 07:53:03 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 09:53:03 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge
 line
In-Reply-To: <200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
	<200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810200952100.26961@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 18 Oct 2008, Bob wrote:

> Hello,
>
> Does anyone know how to order this part from Ted?

Have you tried the telephone? It's an older piece of technology, but 
currently a viable option.

Said tongue in cheek, of course.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Oct 20 08:02:00 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:02:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Battery Size Chart
In-Reply-To: <48F9FB20.8070205@maine.rr.com>
References: <00b301c930a1$39b06820$6401a8c0@STATION6>
	<48F9FB20.8070205@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810200958120.26961@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 18 Oct 2008, David Friedlander wrote:

> Thanks, Alex! That's a handy guide.
>
> Speaking of car batteries, are our Sixes designed to run using Group 34 style 
> batteries?

I've always used group 24.

You have to get the one with the posts in the right place (the + is on the 
right side of the car and forward. The other one will fit, but the cable 
needs to get pulled tight and you have to use a universal-style ground 
cable that doesn't connect to the body like the stock piece does.

Was there really no on-list reply to this query?

> Dave

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Oct 20 08:17:43 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 10:17:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Battery Size Chart
Message-ID: <27764655.519221224512263382.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web28-z02>

Bob;

Yours was the ONLY response to my question, on or off list..... That's OK: at my age I already talk to myself a lot!  :- )

Dave


---- Robert Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote: 
> On Sat, 18 Oct 2008, David Friedlander wrote:
> 
> > Thanks, Alex! That's a handy guide.
> >
> > Speaking of car batteries, are our Sixes designed to run using Group 34 style 
> > batteries?
> 
> I've always used group 24.
> 
> You have to get the one with the posts in the right place (the + is on the 
> right side of the car and forward. The other one will fit, but the cable 
> needs to get pulled tight and you have to use a universal-style ground 
> cable that doesn't connect to the body like the stock piece does.
> 
> Was there really no on-list reply to this query?
> 
> > Dave
> 
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Oct 20 08:31:22 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 07:31:22 -0700
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Leaky card - part II
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957305AA749@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Marty:

        Unless you want to have problems in the future, replace the float. If
Moss doesn't carry it, try Joe Curto (joecurto.com). He will have it for
sure.

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Martin Romagni
Sent: Sunday, October 19, 2008 9:16 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Leaky card - part II

Hey everyone,

<snip>
So today, I removed the float bowl to get at the problem.
When I went to pry the float loose to test it, the steel clip that
holds the float came off too  yikes! It appears that
the PO, had glued the steel clip in place.

Here is the picture
http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/romagnim/?action=view&current=CIMG104
8.jpg

So it looks like my choices are to 1) throw out that carb and replace
it with another or can I glue that clip back in place? I was thinking of
using JB Weld to glue it back.

Thoughts and thanks in advance?


Marty

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Oct 20 09:27:10 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 08:27:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <bfd.44c2c0b6.362b3fd1@aol.com>
References: <bfd.44c2c0b6.362b3fd1@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957305AA78E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Vic:

        My conclusion long ago was that these get removed in very short order
by the DPO. I am not sure why they get removed, only that they do. My car
didn't have them at all, and it was not until I replaced the carpeting that I
realized there was supposed to be something there on the rockers.
        I got a pair from British Auto Works just to make the car more
original, as I really don't use them very often.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast
_________________________________________________________________________
Sloane,

  It's a plastic molded pocket/receiver that's screwed to the interior
rockers to accept the male spade portion of the seat belt.  It provides an
unused
seat belt a place to "park", giving the interior  a clean, organized look vs.
having the belts lay on the seat or floor, or  fall down between the seat and
rocker. If you view the "parked" belt with the  doors open, you will see the
belt run from the retractor to the "parker" at a  45-degree (?) angle. If you
open the door, and they are present in your car,  they will be around the
halfway point of the door jamb on the interior  side.
  These must be commonly missing from a lot of cars. A local TR6  collector
commented at a recent show "Wow, seat belt parkers !" I would surmise  no one
uses them or they are missing, or perhaps they were installed on later
models
??

Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6 w/AC


Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC

**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out
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You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From Vsnively at aol.com  Mon Oct 20 09:40:08 2008
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 11:40:08 EDT
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
Message-ID: <cf3.44810854.362e0058@aol.com>

In a message dated 10/20/2008 11:27:45 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
vance.navarrette at intel.com writes:

Vic:

My conclusion  long ago was that these get removed in very short order
by the DPO. I am  not sure why they get removed, only that they do. My car
didn't have them  at all, and it was not until I replaced the carpeting that I
realized there  was supposed to be something there on the rockers.
I got a pair from British Auto Works just to make the car  more
original, as I really don't use them very often.

Vance


Vance Navarrette
Cogito Ergo Zoom
I think, therefore I go  fast
_________________________________________________________________________
Sloane,

It's a plastic molded pocket/receiver that's screwed to the  interior
rockers to accept the male spade portion of the seat belt.   It provides an
unused
seat belt a place to "park", giving the  interior  a clean, organized look vs.
having the belts lay on the seat  or floor, or  fall down between the seat and
rocker. If you view the  "parked" belt with the  doors open, you will see the
belt run from the  retractor to the "parker" at a  45-degree (?) angle. If you
open the  door, and they are present in your car,  they will be around  the
halfway point of the door jamb on the interior  side.
These must be commonly missing from a lot of cars. A local TR6   collector
commented at a recent show "Wow, seat belt parkers !" I would  surmise  no one
uses them or they are missing, or perhaps they were  installed on later
models
??

Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC


Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6   w/AC

**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your  destination.
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You  are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) 





Hi Vance,
 
  Thanks for the response.
  I typically only use them at car shows and cruise-ins. I like the  "clean 
and organized" look.
  Hey, I'm a neatfreak, and I quit making excuses for it a long time  ago.
 
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC
**************New MapQuest Local shows what's happening at your destination.  
Dining, Movies, Events, News & more. Try it out 
(http://local.mapquest.com/?ncid=emlcntnew00000002)

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Oct 20 10:32:10 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 12:32:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] replacement seat belts TR6
In-Reply-To: <cf3.44810854.362e0058@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20081020123210.57EP7.207439.root@mp11>

---- Vsnively at aol.com wrote: 
> 
> My conclusion  long ago was that these get removed in very short order
> by the DPO.

I have a 76 Spitfire that needs a new inner rocker due to the installation of the parkers.  Apparently the screw holes provided a place for rust to form behind the carpet.

<http://fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/FM44xxx//clip.jpg>

Of course, not storing it outside for 15 years might have prevented the rust, but then again it's a Spitfire...it could rust in a bank vault.

The TR6 was always garaged, and has both it's parkers and it's original rust-free paint.  Whew!

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Mon Oct 20 13:25:41 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 12:25:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Lowering Ride Height on late model TR 6
Message-ID: <159426.77519.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Ok, I have tons of responses relating to some type of modification to the
stock springs to reduce the ride height which I agree doesn't sound like a
good idea.  Thanks to everyone for your ideas. 
 
I guess where I was thinking of going with this was:  If the early cars were
lower than the late cars what did the manufacturer change to increase the
bumper height?  If they could raise the height of the car, what would it take
to lower it?  Knowing how cheap Standard Triumph was it probably was pretty
simple.  Of course it may be just me that's simple.
 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6    
Tired of
spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around 
http://mail.yahoo.com

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Mon Oct 20 13:39:16 2008
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 13:39:16 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Lowering Ride Height on late model TR 6
In-Reply-To: <159426.77519.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <159426.77519.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0810201239y644e94d9k459acbff0cac2187@mail.gmail.com>

Don't forget that they raised the bumper relative to the body as well. Which
had nothing to with relative ride height.

On Mon, Oct 20, 2008 at 1:25 PM, michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>wrote:

> Ok, I have tons of responses relating to some type of modification to the
> stock springs to reduce the ride height which I agree doesn't sound like a
> good idea.  Thanks to everyone for your ideas.
>
> I guess where I was thinking of going with this was:  If the early cars
> were
> lower than the late cars what did the manufacturer change to increase the
> bumper height?  If they could raise the height of the car, what would it
> take
> to lower it?  Knowing how cheap Standard Triumph was it probably was pretty
> simple.  Of course it may be just me that's simple.
>
> Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6
> Tired of
> spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com

From tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com  Mon Oct 20 13:43:10 2008
From: tgeiger at GeigerGarage.com (Terry Geiger)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:43:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lowering Ride Height on late model TR 6
In-Reply-To: <159426.77519.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <159426.77519.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <290CF88F8BE6436C8E9644301C224B03@aitinc.local>

Triumph literally raised the bumpers on the later TR6s.  Early sixes (74 and 
earlier) had the turn signals above the front bumper.  Late sixes had the 
turn signals below the front bumper (starting in '75).  I'm pretty sure the 
ride height did not actually change, only the height of the bumper itself.

MG's solution was to raise the ride height to get the bumpers higher, which 
did hurt the handling because the center of gravity was higher.

Terry Geiger
www.GeigerGarage.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 2:25 PM
Subject: [6pack] Lowering Ride Height on late model TR 6


> Ok, I have tons of responses relating to some type of modification to the
> stock springs to reduce the ride height which I agree doesn't sound like a
> good idea.  Thanks to everyone for your ideas.
>
> I guess where I was thinking of going with this was:  If the early cars 
> were
> lower than the late cars what did the manufacturer change to increase the
> bumper height?  If they could raise the height of the car, what would it 
> take
> to lower it?  Knowing how cheap Standard Triumph was it probably was 
> pretty
> simple.  Of course it may be just me that's simple.
>
> Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6
> Tired of
> spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Oct 20 15:37:03 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 14:37:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] jack question
In-Reply-To: <200810180856.48606.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <48F792A8.80206@bright.net>
	<200810180851.32566.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<200810180856.48606.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957305AAB53@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Bob:

        Sounds original, but others have already commented on that point.

        I just wanted to mention that "GM Corporate Blue" spray enamel is a
very close match to the blue that Triumph used on the jack and on the original
oil filter housing. You can get it at any auto parts store and use it to
repaint your jack to make it look like new.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Saturday, October 18, 2008 5:57 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] jack question

The jack that came with my 72 project is a scissors type jack sort of
smallish
and is painted a light blue.

Question is: Is it an original?

Thanks,

Bob

From jmitch at snet.net  Mon Oct 20 19:26:10 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 21:26:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6 volt coil
Message-ID: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net>

    I have a Lucas 6 volt coil with the same dimensions as my original 
but with a different part number.  Will this work on my 76 TR6, or are 
there other requirements other than being the correct voltage.  Thanks  
John Mitchell

From tr6parts at charter.net  Mon Oct 20 21:14:42 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 23:14:42 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lowering Ride Height on late model TR 6
References: <159426.77519.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <5ABEF05B8B6D4032ACDC5D0F70CF2279@alan>

They repositioned the bumper higher on the body.
Thats why the turn signels were moved to the bumper on the later cars.
Also why the Amco bumper badge won't work on the later cars, because it 
would interfer with the headlights.
Not a very expensive change.
I don't think the overall height of the car was changed that much.

Al
76 daily driver
74 in limbo
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 3:25 PM
Subject: [6pack] Lowering Ride Height on late model TR 6


> Ok, I have tons of responses relating to some type of modification to the
> stock springs to reduce the ride height which I agree doesn't sound like a
> good idea.  Thanks to everyone for your ideas.
>
> I guess where I was thinking of going with this was:  If the early cars 
> were
> lower than the late cars what did the manufacturer change to increase the
> bumper height?  If they could raise the height of the car, what would it 
> take
> to lower it?  Knowing how cheap Standard Triumph was it probably was 
> pretty
> simple.  Of course it may be just me that's simple.
>
> Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6
> Tired of
> spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.549 / Virus Database: 270.8.1/1734 - Release Date: 10/20/2008 
> 7:25 AM

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Mon Oct 20 21:48:25 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick Patton)
Date: Mon, 20 Oct 2008 23:48:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lowering Ride Height on late model TR 6
In-Reply-To: <290CF88F8BE6436C8E9644301C224B03@aitinc.local>
References: <159426.77519.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<290CF88F8BE6436C8E9644301C224B03@aitinc.local>
Message-ID: <48FD5109.7030702@suscom-maine.net>

Hi Mike,

Did you start this thread? Anyway my 75 TR6 has Richard Good's 
competition  springs. They lowered the car considerably  from the TRF  
springs that were so tall it  looked like a Jeep!  The tires are  
205/55-R16 and that also contributes to the lowering.

I'm very pleased with the look and enjoy the expected stiff ride. The 
only issue is with front camber. Even with no alignment shims the lower 
control arms are a tad too long kicking the wheels out at the bottom to 
the outer  limits of alignment spec. At some point I may shorten the 
arms a touch or fabricate my own replacements. And that would be just to 
gain the ability for a better alignment. I've also used spring spacers 
of cut to various thickness to fine tune the car height.

Rick Patton
75 TR6sci
http://pattonmachine.com/

snip snip snip

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 21 05:39:24 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 04:39:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height summary
Message-ID: <20876.64573.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

This is probably obvious to most of you but for the sake of straightening out
my earlier confused ramblings I would like to summarize the responses.  There
was no change in ride height from the early to late TR 6s.  Generally speaking
in regard to height issues the only changes were to the bumper height and
parking lights.  The only simple ways to reduce the ride height of all TR 6s
is to use shorter (but uprated springs to compensate for the reduced length of
spring travel) or to use lower profile tires.  My confusion was caused when I
once compared the height of my early 6 with a later one and observed the late
model 6 to be about an inch taller.  I failed to consider the fact that I had
55 profile tires on my car when I measured the heights of the two cars. 
Thanks to Rick Patton for the reminder.  
 
Mike Lunsford,     

__________________________________________________
Do You
Yahoo!?
Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
http://mail.yahoo.com

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Tue Oct 21 06:31:49 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 08:31:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height summary
References: <20876.64573.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002801c93378$fe488f30$0300a8c0@Desktop>

OK Mike.....Now that we are straightening out your RAMBLINGs
What is the measurement form the floor to the frame rail at pick up point of 
the lower wishbone for the front and what is it for the back?
Craig
By the way keep rambling you help allot of us out

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 7:39 AM
Subject: [6pack] Lowering ride height summary


> This is probably obvious to most of you but for the sake of straightening 
> out
> my earlier confused ramblings I would like to summarize the responses. 
> There
> was no change in ride height from the early to late TR 6s.  Generally 
> speaking
> in regard to height issues the only changes were to the bumper height and
> parking lights.  The only simple ways to reduce the ride height of all TR 
> 6s
> is to use shorter (but uprated springs to compensate for the reduced 
> length of
> spring travel) or to use lower profile tires.  My confusion was caused 
> when I
> once compared the height of my early 6 with a later one and observed the 
> late
> model 6 to be about an inch taller.  I failed to consider the fact that I 
> had
> 55 profile tires on my car when I measured the heights of the two cars.
> Thanks to Rick Patton for the reminder.
>
> Mike Lunsford,
>
> __________________________________________________
> Do You
> Yahoo!?
> Tired of spam?  Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around
> http://mail.yahoo.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Oct 21 06:36:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 08:36:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] 6 volt coil
In-Reply-To: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net>
References: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net>
Message-ID: <B80386AE83D84E38B148AB7DEF5A0D04@BOBSNEWPC>

John,
You should have a ballast wire which impacts the type of coil you can use.
Hopefully one of the smart guys will jump in and tell you how to test the
coil to see if you can use it. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 9:26 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] 6 volt coil

    I have a Lucas 6 volt coil with the same dimensions as my original but
with a different part number.  Will this work on my 76 TR6, or are there
other requirements other than being the correct voltage.  Thanks John
Mitchell _______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

http://www.team.net/archive

From lee at automate-it.com  Tue Oct 21 08:08:01 2008
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 09:08:01 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] The TR6 rear-end clunk
In-Reply-To: <641884.39548.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <641884.39548.qm@web54109.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <2923.192.246.38.159.1224598081.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

It's been over a month... but we've been in and out of hurricane Ike, and now
have just about cleaned up our neck of the woods. I also finished a nice 9-day
vacation and then got under the 6 to address this problem.

The good news is that I was able to get most of this clunk issue figured
out... and it's not what you thought!

Another nice result is that I found out a lot about what's needed:
 a. At least one axle U-joint probably needs replacing
 b. The splines on one axle are worn enough that there's a bit of rotational play
 c. I went through my stash in the attic and found at least two axles in very
good condition, so (c.) is easy to fix.
 d. Diff. mounts are in good shape; no cracks, etc. I do have the TRF gussets
that I was planning to use on the other frame - they could end up on this
one.
 e. None of these issues was the major problem!

Here's the answer:
 While unbuttoning the axles, etc., I found the answer almost immediately. The
four bolts on the right-side axle-to-diff flanges WERE LOOSE. They had been
spun down most of the way, but none of the four had been torqued down at all!
Tightened them back up after checking all the other above issues, and 90% of
the "clunk" is gone.

I'm pretty sure I know why. I bought this '74 about 16 months ago. The week
before I went to check it out, the PO had the rear hub bearings replaced. The
flange that didn't get tightened is the one mostly obscured by the exhaust
pipes, and the shop just forgot to go back and get to those.

I drove the car 180 miles home and didn't get it licensed, etc. until about 6
months ago. Had some more serious issues to fix (bushings on the right-front
A-arms were shot - one of the pivots had *no* bushing at all). This took care
of the most major of the "clunks", but the rear clunk got worse as the bolts
loosened a bit.

Many thanks for all the help offered at the time - all of it was good and I'll
end up doing most of the other fixes anyway.

Thanks,
 Lee

'74 Maple TR6 (never-ending restoration)
'74 Pimento TR6 - daily driver
The Woodlands, TX


> I'm not an expert, but from my experience:
>
> 1.  Backlash doesn't sound like an issue.
> 2.  If you have any play in your u-joints, you need to replace them.
> 3.  Play in the axle splines is not good, but you could be mistakeing u-joint
> play for it - test it again after replacing u-joints.
> 4.  From your description, it doesn't sound like diff mounts should be an
> issue.
>
> If I were to diagnose from your description, it sounds like your u-joints are
> badly worn, and the clunk you hear is caused by the amount of play in the
> u-joint.
>
> Raymond L. Hatfield

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Oct 21 08:27:08 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 07:27:08 -0700
Subject: [6pack] 6 volt coil
In-Reply-To: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net>
References: <48FD2FB2.7010706@snet.net>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957305AADB4@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        John:

        Measure the primary resistance. If it is too low, it will burn the
points. The later cars are about 1.3 ohms on the primary (ballasted). Early
cars are about 3.3 ohms (non-ballasted).

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 6:26 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] 6 volt coil

    I have a Lucas 6 volt coil with the same dimensions as my original
but with a different part number.  Will this work on my 76 TR6, or are
there other requirements other than being the correct voltage.  Thanks
John Mitchell

From davedenson at cox.net  Tue Oct 21 18:01:34 2008
From: davedenson at cox.net (Dave Denson)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 19:01:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <AEA8DAD283B14AB5B363CB8A3D0BA188@TR6>
Message-ID: <001b01c933d9$58a8d830$6800a8c0@Dave>

Hmmm, what a blast from the past. I bought my 6 in the fall of '76 from
Paretti.  They were in Metairie (suburb of New Orleans) at the time.  Mine
was in the next-to-last shipment that they got.  By the time I was ready to
pick mine up, there was another shipment and they had a couple of cars with
hardtops but I liked my color (Carmine) so I decided to go with it.  I think
the owner (Paretti) decided to keep a couple of the cars from the last
shipment and for many years they sat in the showroom.  The owner's son was
my salesman and I suspect that he owns the place (and the 6's) now.  I think
they still have a Jaguar place where they sold the British Leyland stuff and
a Mazda place that I think used to sell Pontiacs.  The commission numbers
would be among the last ones since they were in the last shipment.

And I still have my Carmine.

Dave Denson


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Derek
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 1:18 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] New TR6

Fellow listers,

 

Does anyone have any details, commission numbers etc, of the two unused TR6
owned by Paretti Jaguar in Baton Rouge. They were mentioned by TR6Bill on
the 6-pack website forum.

 

Cheers

 

Derek
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as davedenson at cox.net

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Tue Oct 21 18:41:48 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 17:41:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Engine swap
Message-ID: <911735.70331.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi List,

A bit ago I was on here asking where I could find a crankshaft to
replace the badly damaged one in my 74 TR6. I found a few in the $250 range
that would have worked ok.

But then I found a complete running (when it was
pulled) engine with carbs for cheap. So now I have a 1970 engine. I got a
little carried away thinking that I could just install the running (albeit
somewhat tired) engine and rebuild my original engine at a later date. But I
didn't think my cunning plan all the way through. I remembered that the port
spacing was different and the intake manifolds were different. However I
forgot that the exhaust manifold was single pipe system on the '70 and not the
dual pipes of the 74. So my exhaust won't bolt up.

There are a few possible
courses of action. I'd like your thoughts if you're in the mood to share...
1.) Have a down pipe made up / modified to fit the old manifold single pipe
exhaust to my dual exhaust.

2.) Put my 74 head on the 1970 block and run it
like that. Will this work?

3.) Pull the crank and finish building my original
engine properly. Then part out the rest of the 1970 engine.

4.) Amazing ideas
I haven't thought of yet?

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Oct 21 18:57:32 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 20:57:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] 6 volt coil
In-Reply-To: <be5.41a7f1d1.362f97eb@cs.com>
References: <be5.41a7f1d1.362f97eb@cs.com>
Message-ID: <48FE7A7C.10308@snet.net>

Thanks Dave,  Does it make any difference that I'm using a pertronix 
instead of points?   John

Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 10/21/2008 2:49:28 PM Central Daylight Time, 
> jmitch at snet.net writes:
>> The ballast resistor is still in place.  How do I go about testing a
>> coil for resistance?  Where do I put the test leads?  Thanks   John
>
> Disconnect one of the wires from the coil and place your meter leads 
> one each coil terminal.
>
> Touch the meter leads together to get a reading that corresponds with 
> zero ohms and subtract that from what you get when you measure the 
> coil.  Most meter leads will measure about 0.2 - 0.5 ohms.  Cheaper 
> ones may read as high as 1 ohm.
>
> Dave

From nosto53 at yahoo.com  Tue Oct 21 20:02:35 2008
From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 19:02:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop question - fuzzy seal?
Message-ID: <326048.1314.qm@web37508.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

My painter is painting next week.
I have the 'parts' (lots!) for TRF.
I have a new header rail (rubber) and a new fuzzy seal.
I can see how to do the header rail with adhesive.
But my body guy can't see how to do the fuzzy seal in it?

Help?

RickO
1972 TR6

From saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk  Wed Oct 22 02:01:57 2008
From: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk (Derek)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 09:01:57 +0100
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <001b01c933d9$58a8d830$6800a8c0@Dave>
References: <AEA8DAD283B14AB5B363CB8A3D0BA188@TR6>
	<001b01c933d9$58a8d830$6800a8c0@Dave>
Message-ID: <D37BD939B7CD41458A9CF54D129BC786@TR6>

Dave,

Thanks for that. Amazing that you still have your TR6, there can't be many
people out there who have owned their TR6 from new.

Cheers
Derek

-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Denson [mailto:davedenson at cox.net] 
Sent: 22 October 2008 01:02
To: 'Derek'; '6pack'
Subject: RE: [6pack] New TR6

Hmmm, what a blast from the past. I bought my 6 in the fall of '76 from
Paretti.  They were in Metairie (suburb of New Orleans) at the time.  Mine
was in the next-to-last shipment that they got.  By the time I was ready to
pick mine up, there was another shipment and they had a couple of cars with
hardtops but I liked my color (Carmine) so I decided to go with it.  I think
the owner (Paretti) decided to keep a couple of the cars from the last
shipment and for many years they sat in the showroom.  The owner's son was
my salesman and I suspect that he owns the place (and the 6's) now.  I think
they still have a Jaguar place where they sold the British Leyland stuff and
a Mazda place that I think used to sell Pontiacs.  The commission numbers
would be among the last ones since they were in the last shipment.

And I still have my Carmine.

Dave Denson


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Derek
Sent: Monday, October 20, 2008 1:18 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] New TR6

Fellow listers,

 

Does anyone have any details, commission numbers etc, of the two unused TR6
owned by Paretti Jaguar in Baton Rouge. They were mentioned by TR6Bill on
the 6-pack website forum.

 

Cheers

 

Derek
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as davedenson at cox.net

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Oct 22 05:51:31 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 07:51:31 EDT
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
Message-ID: <d3d.2db8e7e8.36306dc3@cs.com>

Irv Korey is one.
> Dave,
> 
> Thanks for that. Amazing that you still have your TR6, there can't be many
> people out there who have owned their TR6 from new.
> 
> Cheers
> Derek

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Oct 22 06:54:21 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 08:54:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <d3d.2db8e7e8.36306dc3@cs.com>
References: <d3d.2db8e7e8.36306dc3@cs.com>
Message-ID: <E402A831489E433B9B22A86689CFD35F@BOBSNEWPC>

Paul Rego is another..... A beautiful '75 TR6 http://www.74tr6.com/ 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 7:52 AM
To: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk; davedenson at cox.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] New TR6

Irv Korey is one.
> Dave,
> 
> Thanks for that. Amazing that you still have your TR6, there can't be 
> many people out there who have owned their TR6 from new.
> 
> Cheers
> Derek
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Oct 22 06:54:54 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 12:54:54 +0000
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
Message-ID: <102220081254.27822.48FF229E0001FF5600006CAE2200758942970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: N197TR4 at cs.com 

> Irv Korey is one. 

:-)
Yes I am, took delivery September 20, 1974. 

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Wed Oct 22 07:32:46 2008
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 09:32:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <102220081254.27822.48FF229E0001FF5600006CAE2200758942970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <102220081254.27822.48FF229E0001FF5600006CAE2200758942970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <6f10dd2514a9f.48fef33e@wright.edu>

Me too....took delivery of my '70 in  Oct. '70

----- Original Message -----
From: emanteno at comcast.net
Date: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 8:55 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] New TR6
To: N197TR4 at cs.com, saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk, davedenson at cox.net,
6pack at autox.team.net

> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
>
> > Irv Korey is one.
>
> :-)
> Yes I am, took delivery September 20, 1974.

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Oct 22 07:52:20 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 09:52:20 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <D37BD939B7CD41458A9CF54D129BC786@TR6>
References: <AEA8DAD283B14AB5B363CB8A3D0BA188@TR6>
	<001b01c933d9$58a8d830$6800a8c0@Dave>
	<D37BD939B7CD41458A9CF54D129BC786@TR6>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0810220951120.31544@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 22 Oct 2008, Derek wrote:

> Dave,
>
> Thanks for that. Amazing that you still have your TR6, there can't be many
> people out there who have owned their TR6 from new.

We're out here...

CF14111U since new (Dad bought it April 1, 1974)

There's a lot fewer original TR3 owners!!

:-)

> Cheers
> Derek

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Oct 22 08:23:35 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 07:23:35 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Engine swap
In-Reply-To: <911735.70331.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <911735.70331.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795730610F14@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Kendall:

        Your later cylinder head will fit on the earlier block without
modifications. Probably the easiest way to go. The later intake manifold is
superior in terms of its power potential anyway. Before you strap the later
head on, consider having it shaved 0.120" or so and then use the earlier
pushrods. That will get your compression up to about 9.5:1, get you about 10HP
with slightly better fuel economy.

        Cheers,

        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Kendall Larsen
Sent: Tuesday, October 21, 2008 5:42 PM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] Engine swap

Hi List,

A bit ago I was on here asking where I could find a crankshaft to
replace the badly damaged one in my 74 TR6. I found a few in the $250 range
that would have worked ok.

<snip>
There are a few possible
courses of action. I'd like your thoughts if you're in the mood to share...
1.) Have a down pipe made up / modified to fit the old manifold single pipe
exhaust to my dual exhaust.

2.) Put my 74 head on the 1970 block and run it
like that. Will this work?

3.) Pull the crank and finish building my original
engine properly. Then part out the rest of the 1970 engine.

4.) Amazing ideas
I haven't thought of yet?

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Oct 22 08:27:39 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 07:27:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <6f10dd2514a9f.48fef33e@wright.edu>
References: <102220081254.27822.48FF229E0001FF5600006CAE2200758942970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<6f10dd2514a9f.48fef33e@wright.edu>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C22795730610F19@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Irv, William:

        Uh... I was lusting after a TR6 in 1974. Does that make me an
honorary
Lifetime TR6 owner?

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of William McIntire

Me too....took delivery of my '70 in  Oct. '70

----- Original Message -----
From: emanteno at comcast.net

> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: N197TR4 at cs.com
>
> > Irv Korey is one.
>
> :-)
> Yes I am, took delivery September 20, 1974.
_______________________________________________

From massitti at telus.net  Wed Oct 22 08:41:00 2008
From: massitti at telus.net (massitti at telus.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 08:41:00 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop question - fuzzy seal?
Message-ID: <3873212.5243451224686460100.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edtnes94>

   Richard

   B

   I'm  in  the  process  of  assembling  my  hardtop,  too.B  If you are
   referring to the seal at the front of the hardtop to windscreen frame,
   that  is  just  pressed  on,  the  same  for the seals around the door
   windows.B   These  press on the same way as the fuzzy seals around the
   doors, too.

   B

   Orest

   www.triumphowners.com/866

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Oct 22 09:00:03 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 15:00:03 +0000
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
Message-ID: <102220081500.25707.48FF3FF20008B85C0000646B2207003201970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com> 

> Irv, William: 
> 
> Uh... I was lusting after a TR6 in 1974. Does that make me an honorary 
> Lifetime TR6 owner? 

That's up to William. He has seniority.
;-)
Irv

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Wed Oct 22 09:29:31 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 15:29:31 +0000
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <E402A831489E433B9B22A86689CFD35F@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <d3d.2db8e7e8.36306dc3@cs.com>
	<E402A831489E433B9B22A86689CFD35F@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W10A7355E5C47F24193F0938E290@phx.gbl>

I was only 8 when my '69 was new. I didn't even have a Matchbox TR-6 in my
otherwise impressive collection. Actually I'm pretty sure I didn't even know
what a Triumph was.

Sloane :(
_________________________________________________________________
When your life is on the gotake your life with you.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/115298558/direct/01/

From triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com  Wed Oct 22 09:54:20 2008
From: triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com (Jeff)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 11:54:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIg+Y1+RbYhFpcKguON8dfbCgAAAEAAAAPEAGd3cTPhAoFRKVVIoRosBAAAAAA==@deltaparadigm.com>

Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some
experienced thoughts. My TR is garage kept and not a daily driver, so she
gets started/ran about once a month or so. since my last start however the
car now has a power problem. The car will start with the choke out and
pumping the gas pedal but even once she gets to operating temperature she
won't stay running if I ease the choke in. If I am running down the road she
has incredibly slow pickup and the top end has come down to about 40mph at
2500rpm in 4th gear. When I get to a light and have to slow down the engine
dies almost immediately unless I pump the gas pedal, or pull the choke out,
it holds a steady fast idle warm with the choke all the way out. Starting
from stop I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
drops to 0 and dies. There is no funny colored smoke, no backfiring, no
cylinder misfires or no fires, as far as I can tell, it feels like it is
fuel system. The carbs are the stock duel strombergs and they were synch'd
by a mechanics shop about a year ago. Up until this recent fireup she has
been running well so I don't think it's a major issue but. Inline fuel
filter is new and the fuel pump seems to pump a good stream of fuel so.
before I start screwing with the carbs I'm wondering what your thoughts are?
What sequence of things should I go through before taking the carbs apart
etc and screwing up a good sync? I appreciate the help. Thanks.

Jeff

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 22 10:09:04 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 09:09:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <5364.32570.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Jeff,

How does the saying go... 90% of carburator problems are electrical? 


I would check the health of the spark, it could be the coil going out. Or maybe the timing got bumped or the carbon shaft in the distributor cap broke or something like that.

Kendall

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Oct 22 10:14:08 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 16:14:08 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <102220081614.794.48FF51500007E3C30000031A2207003201970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Jeff" <triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com> 

> Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some 
> experienced thoughts. 

Distributor rotors have been failing at an alarming rate the last few years. If you have another one, I'd try fitting it.
The first thing I'd look at in the carbs would be te diaphragms.
Good luck,
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 22 10:21:13 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 09:21:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Engine swap
Message-ID: <873249.55090.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>Just bolt on your late exhaust manifold to the early head. It will fit 
>just fine. Only the intakes are different.

Thanks for pointing this out before I did something more invasive!

Just putting the 74 exhaust manifold on is def. the way to go at this time.

Kendall

From lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Oct 22 10:21:44 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 16:21:44 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <802736484-1224692509-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-593548754-@bxe135.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Sounds like timing, checked that? 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Jeff
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Oct 22, 2008 10:54 AM
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted

Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some
experienced thoughts. My TR is garage kept and not a daily driver, so she
gets started/ran about once a month or so. since my last start however the
car now has a power problem. The car will start with the choke out and
pumping the gas pedal but even once she gets to operating temperature she
won't stay running if I ease the choke in. If I am running down the road she
has incredibly slow pickup and the top end has come down to about 40mph at
2500rpm in 4th gear. When I get to a light and have to slow down the engine
dies almost immediately unless I pump the gas pedal, or pull the choke out,
it holds a steady fast idle warm with the choke all the way out. Starting
from stop I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
drops to 0 and dies. There is no funny colored smoke, no backfiring, no
cylinder misfires or no fires, as far as I can tell, it feels like it is
fuel system. The carbs are the stock duel strombergs and they were synch'd
by a mechanics shop about a year ago. Up until this recent fireup she has
been running well so I don't think it's a major issue but. Inline fuel
filter is new and the fuel pump seems to pump a good stream of fuel so.
before I start screwing with the carbs I'm wondering what your thoughts are?
What sequence of things should I go through before taking the carbs apart
etc and screwing up a good sync? I appreciate the help. Thanks.

Jeff
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From tr6parts at charter.net  Wed Oct 22 10:51:25 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 9:51:25 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIg+Y1+RbYhFpcKguON8dfbCgAAAEAAAAPEAGd3cTPhAoFRKVVIoRosBAAAAAA==@deltaparadigm.com>
Message-ID: <20081022125125.8XLUH.314930.root@mp15>

Since it wasn't happening before, I would check the carbs and see if the diaphrams are split.
Mine is a daily driver and they only last about a year on that basis. 

YMMV.

Al

---- Jeff <triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com> wrote: 
> Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some
> experienced thoughts. My TR is garage kept and not a daily driver, so she
> gets started/ran about once a month or so. since my last start however the
> car now has a power problem. The car will start with the choke out and
> pumping the gas pedal but even once she gets to operating temperature she
> won't stay running if I ease the choke in. If I am running down the road she
> has incredibly slow pickup and the top end has come down to about 40mph at
> 2500rpm in 4th gear. When I get to a light and have to slow down the engine
> dies almost immediately unless I pump the gas pedal, or pull the choke out,
> it holds a steady fast idle warm with the choke all the way out. Starting
> from stop I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
> the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
> can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
> 5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
> drops to 0 and dies. There is no funny colored smoke, no backfiring, no
> cylinder misfires or no fires, as far as I can tell, it feels like it is
> fuel system. The carbs are the stock duel strombergs and they were synch'd
> by a mechanics shop about a year ago. Up until this recent fireup she has
> been running well so I don't think it's a major issue but. Inline fuel
> filter is new and the fuel pump seems to pump a good stream of fuel so.
> before I start screwing with the carbs I'm wondering what your thoughts are?
> What sequence of things should I go through before taking the carbs apart
> etc and screwing up a good sync? I appreciate the help. Thanks.
> 
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Wed Oct 22 13:50:21 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 12:50:21 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIg+Y1+RbYhFpcKguON8dfbCgAAAEAAAAPEAGd3cTPhAoFRKVVIoRosBAAAAAA==@deltaparadigm.com>
Message-ID: <006f01c9347f$6bd4aa00$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

With it idling with the choke out did you pull the air cleaner and make sure
both pistons move when operating the throttle?
Regards,
Bob



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jeff" <triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 8:54 AM
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted


> Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some
> experienced thoughts. My TR is garage kept and not a daily driver, so she
> gets started/ran about once a month or so. since my last start however the
> car now has a power problem. The car will start with the choke out and
> pumping the gas pedal but even once she gets to operating temperature she
> won't stay running if I ease the choke in. If I am running down the road
she
> has incredibly slow pickup and the top end has come down to about 40mph at
> 2500rpm in 4th gear. When I get to a light and have to slow down the
engine
> dies almost immediately unless I pump the gas pedal, or pull the choke
out,
> it holds a steady fast idle warm with the choke all the way out. Starting
> from stop I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
> the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
> can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
> 5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
> drops to 0 and dies. There is no funny colored smoke, no backfiring, no
> cylinder misfires or no fires, as far as I can tell, it feels like it is
> fuel system. The carbs are the stock duel strombergs and they were synch'd
> by a mechanics shop about a year ago. Up until this recent fireup she has
> been running well so I don't think it's a major issue but. Inline fuel
> filter is new and the fuel pump seems to pump a good stream of fuel so.
> before I start screwing with the carbs I'm wondering what your thoughts
are?
> What sequence of things should I go through before taking the carbs apart
> etc and screwing up a good sync? I appreciate the help. Thanks.
>
> Jeff
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
> Database version: 5.10960e
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (5.5.1.322)
Database version: 5.10960e
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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Oct 22 11:14:49 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 10:14:49 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
In-Reply-To: <802736484-1224692509-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-593548754-@bxe135.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <802736484-1224692509-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-593548754-@bxe135.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C227957306110D0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Lou:

        Ooooo. Good one. Yeah, my car did this when I set the timing wrong - I
was a newbie and the Bentley manual was rather confusing (I felt).
        Pull the vacuum connection off the distributor and set the timing to
10BTDC. Then reconnect the vacuum. This method will get you the correct timing
even if the vacuum retard has failed.

        Cheers,

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of lfm614 at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 9:22 AM
To: Jeff; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] Opinions wanted

Sounds like timing, checked that?

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Jeff
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Oct 22, 2008 10:54 AM
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted

Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some
experienced thoughts. My TR is garage kept and not a daily driver, so she
gets started/ran about once a month or so. since my last start however the
car now has a power problem. The car will start with the choke out and
pumping the gas pedal but even once she gets to operating temperature she
won't stay running if I ease the choke in. If I am running down the road she
has incredibly slow pickup and the top end has come down to about 40mph at
2500rpm in 4th gear. When I get to a light and have to slow down the engine
dies almost immediately unless I pump the gas pedal, or pull the choke out,
it holds a steady fast idle warm with the choke all the way out. Starting
from stop I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
drops to 0 and dies. There is no funny colored smoke, no backfiring, no
cylinder misfires or no fires, as far as I can tell, it feels like it is
fuel system. The carbs are the stock duel strombergs and they were synch'd
by a mechanics shop about a year ago. Up until this recent fireup she has
been running well so I don't think it's a major issue but. Inline fuel
filter is new and the fuel pump seems to pump a good stream of fuel so.
before I start screwing with the carbs I'm wondering what your thoughts are?
What sequence of things should I go through before taking the carbs apart
etc and screwing up a good sync? I appreciate the help. Thanks.

Jeff
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Oct 22 11:18:33 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 17:18:33 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <1184629675-1224695917-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-715892472-@bxe135.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

My two picks for this symptom are timing and diaphragms.  They are both easy to check.  

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Navarrette, Vance
To: Lfmaol
To: Jeff
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Oct 22, 2008 12:14 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Opinions wanted

        Lou:

        Ooooo. Good one. Yeah, my car did this when I set the timing wrong - I was a newbie and the Bentley manual was rather confusing (I felt).
        Pull the vacuum connection off the distributor and set the timing to 10BTDC. Then reconnect the vacuum. This method will get you the correct timing even if the vacuum retard has failed.

        Cheers,

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lfm614 at aol.com
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 9:22 AM
To: Jeff; TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] Opinions wanted

Sounds like timing, checked that?

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Jeff
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Oct 22, 2008 10:54 AM
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted

Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some
experienced thoughts. My TR is garage kept and not a daily driver, so she
gets started/ran about once a month or so. since my last start however the
car now has a power problem. The car will start with the choke out and
pumping the gas pedal but even once she gets to operating temperature she
won't stay running if I ease the choke in. If I am running down the road she
has incredibly slow pickup and the top end has come down to about 40mph at
2500rpm in 4th gear. When I get to a light and have to slow down the engine
dies almost immediately unless I pump the gas pedal, or pull the choke out,
it holds a steady fast idle warm with the choke all the way out. Starting
from stop I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
drops to 0 and dies. There is no funny colored smoke, no backfiring, no
cylinder misfires or no fires, as far as I can tell, it feels like it is
fuel system. The carbs are the stock duel strombergs and they were synch'd
by a mechanics shop about a year ago. Up until this recent fireup she has
been running well so I don't think it's a major issue but. Inline fuel
filter is new and the fuel pump seems to pump a good stream of fuel so.
before I start screwing with the carbs I'm wondering what your thoughts are?
What sequence of things should I go through before taking the carbs apart
etc and screwing up a good sync? I appreciate the help. Thanks.

Jeff
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Oct 22 12:09:47 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 13:09:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
References: <d3d.2db8e7e8.36306dc3@cs.com><E402A831489E433B9B22A86689CFD35F@BOBSNEWPC>
	<BLU118-W10A7355E5C47F24193F0938E290@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004201c93471$a4bf2970$1ea7a8c0@Ranteer.local>

did they make a matchbox tr6???
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 10:29 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] New TR6


>I was only 8 when my '69 was new. I didn't even have a Matchbox TR-6 in my
> otherwise impressive collection. Actually I'm pretty sure I didn't even 
> know
> what a Triumph was.
>
> Sloane :(

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Oct 22 12:53:57 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 14:53:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
Message-ID: <21726274.226731224701637650.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02>

Check it out!

http://www.etnl-diecast.com/triumph2.htm

Dave Friedlander


---- Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote: 

  did they make a matchbox tr6???

> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 10:29 AM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] New TR6
> 
> 
> >I was only 8 when my '69 was new. I didn't even have a Matchbox TR-6 in my
> > otherwise impressive collection. Actually I'm pretty sure I didn't even 
> > know
> > what a Triumph was.
> >
> > Sloane :(
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From k6na at cts.com  Wed Oct 22 12:56:39 2008
From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 11:56:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <D37BD939B7CD41458A9CF54D129BC786@TR6>
References: <AEA8DAD283B14AB5B363CB8A3D0BA188@TR6>
	<001b01c933d9$58a8d830$6800a8c0@Dave>
	<D37BD939B7CD41458A9CF54D129BC786@TR6>
Message-ID: <20081022185802.252153952@repulse.concentric.com>

Ours, original carmine O/D, is a 74.5 California car we bought new in 
April of '75.  My wife got a ride into San Diego from a friend, to 
pick it up when I was out of town on a business trip, and the dealer 
generously gave her about a gallon of gas in the tank... of course, 
she ran out of fuel just as she was getting off the freeway on the 
way home.  Oh well...

Yes, she knew how to drive it-- I had owned a TR4A since '67.

--Glenn
San Diego
CF29457UO (mfr'd Dec. '74)

>Thanks for that. Amazing that you still have your TR6, there can't be many
>people out there who have owned their TR6 from new.

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 22 13:01:13 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 12:01:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <2249.70190.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I recently had a similar problem with the 69 that I bought.  It turned out to
be a vacum leak-the diaphram in the brake booster had given up.  Every time I
used the brakes at a stop light the motor would die.
 
Mike Lunsford, 69 and 70 TR 6

From fishplate at charter.net  Wed Oct 22 13:29:02 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 15:29:02 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIg+Y1+RbYhFpcKguON8dfbCgAAAEAAAAPE
	AGd3cTPhAoFRKVVIoRosBAAAAAA==@deltaparadigm.com>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIg+Y1+RbYhFpcKguON8dfbCgAAAEAAAAPEAGd3cTPhAoFRKVVIoRosBAAAAAA==@deltaparadigm.com>
Message-ID: <20081022192903.RIYR3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 11:54 AM 10/22/2008, Jeff wrote:
>I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
>the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
>can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
>5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
>drops to 0 and dies.


Are both carbs attached to the throttle shaft?  Do the butterflies 
and pistons work in unison?



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Wed Oct 22 14:15:33 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 15:15:33 -0500
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
References: <21726274.226731224701637650.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02>
Message-ID: <581132E8935C45339E83EBC1E8C884DF@Dell320>

Christmas is coming up you know and I still like my toy cars. Thanks!


> Check it out!
> 
> http://www.etnl-diecast.com/triumph2.htm
> 
> Dave Friedlander

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Tue Oct 21 14:51:26 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Tue, 21 Oct 2008 15:51:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
Message-ID: <380-2200810221205126328@earthlink.net>

Triumph fans,

We have several members in our local club who are the original owners of
their Triumphs. One member recalls when he traded his TR3 for a new TR4 and
traded that in on the TR6 he still owns today. While this is not the norm,
I'm sure there are many original owners out there.

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Club Historian, Minnesota Triumphs


.
> Subject: Re: [6pack] New TR6
>
> Dave,
>
> Thanks for that. Amazing that you still have your TR6, there can't be many
> people out there who have owned their TR6 from new.
>
> Cheers
> Derek

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Wed Oct 22 18:13:01 2008
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Wed, 22 Oct 2008 20:13:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New TR6
In-Reply-To: <102220081500.25707.48FF3FF20008B85C0000646B2207003201970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <102220081500.25707.48FF3FF20008B85C0000646B2207003201970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <69f094a1302.48ff894d@wright.edu>

Vance,
If you wish to be an honorary lifetime TR6 owner, you have my express consent.
After all having seniority should have some privileges  besides having 38 year
old coolant hoses.

Welcome to the "elite group".

Bill
 

----- Original Message -----
From: emanteno at comcast.net
Date: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 11:00 am
Subject: RE: [6pack] New TR6
To: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>, William McIntire
<william.mcintire at wright.edu>
Cc: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk"
<saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk>


-----------------------------------------------------------
|


>  >
> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
>
> > Irv, William:
> >
> > Uh... I was lusting after a TR6 in 1974. Does that make me an honorary
> > Lifetime TR6 owner?

 

> That's up to William. He has seniority.

> ;-)

> Irv
 |
-----------------------------------------------------------

From janah at att.net  Wed Oct 22 23:39:06 2008
From: janah at att.net (janah at att.net)
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 05:39:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Engine swap (Kendall Larsen)
Message-ID: <102320080539.15125.49000DFA0000F4F600003B1522230703729B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>

Hi Kendall,

Do you have a 74 or a 74-1/2 with the air-pump?  If it was me, I would use your existing manifold or one from a 72, 73 or 74 without the the airmanifold fittings on it and mate it up to your running 70 engine.  The later exhaust manifolds will fit the earlier engine.  Itis just the intake manifolds that afre not interchangable.

Reagrds,
John Cyg

<snip>

There are a few possible
courses of action. I'd like your thoughts if you're in the mood to share...
1.) Have a down pipe made up / modified to fit the old manifold single pipe
exhaust to my dual exhaust.

2.) Put my 74 head on the 1970 block and run it
like that. Will this work?

3.) Pull the crank and finish building my original
engine properly. Then part out the rest of the 1970 engine.

4.) Amazing ideas
I haven't thought of yet?

Kendall
San Clemente, CA
 <snip>

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Oct 23 00:31:54 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 06:31:54 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV10E3E86A39626E4B03793DF4280@phx.gbl>

Jeff---Others have indicated that the problem is either the (hole in the) carb diaphragm(s) or the ignition timing. I would agree that it is most likely one of these.
As you may know, pumping the gas pedal doesn't squirt any gas into the engine with the Stromberg carburetors. What pumping the pedal does do is interrrupt the vacuum pull on the line that goes to the retard unit on the distributor. This could be why there's a momentary reprieve to keep the engine alive, as the timing trys to advance. So it's my opinion that the engine is trying to run while the timing is extremely retarded. I would check things related to the point gap, and the bolts that hold the distributor from moving about. Write back, if you need some ideas here.

Dick
'73 original owner


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Sent: Wednesday, October 22, 2008 8:54 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted

Hello all, I have an issue with my '73 TR6 and am looking for some
experienced thoughts. My TR is garage kept and not a daily driver, so she
gets started/ran about once a month or so. since my last start however the
car now has a power problem. The car will start with the choke out and
pumping the gas pedal but even once she gets to operating temperature she
won't stay running if I ease the choke in. If I am running down the road she
has incredibly slow pickup and the top end has come down to about 40mph at
2500rpm in 4th gear. When I get to a light and have to slow down the engine
dies almost immediately unless I pump the gas pedal, or pull the choke out,
it holds a steady fast idle warm with the choke all the way out. Starting
from stop I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max I
can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000 to
5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out she
drops to 0 and dies. There is no funny colored smoke, no backfiring, no
cylinder misfires or no fires, as far as I can tell, it feels like it is
fuel system. The carbs are the stock duel strombergs and they were synch'd
by a mechanics shop about a year ago. Up until this recent fireup she has
been running well so I don't think it's a major issue but. Inline fuel
filter is new and the fuel pump seems to pump a good stream of fuel so.
before I start screwing with the carbs I'm wondering what your thoughts are?
What sequence of things should I go through before taking the carbs apart
etc and screwing up a good sync? I appreciate the help. Thanks.

Jeff
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Thu Oct 23 08:20:42 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 09:20:42 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Prodfest Race at VIR
Message-ID: <E1Kt13N-0007mV-Cx@elasmtp-junco.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

I will be racing TR6 at the Production Car Festival at VIR this weekend. If
any of you happen to be there stop by and see me.

I will try to paddock down the hill from the grid towards the pond.

 

Mike Munson

#28 EP TR6

From tlamkin at emory.edu  Thu Oct 23 08:55:17 2008
From: tlamkin at emory.edu (Todd Lamkin)
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 10:55:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] '71 For Sale
Message-ID: <C5260895.36F40%tlamkin@emory.edu>

Hi Friends - 

After 5 plus wonderful years of TR6 ownership, I am sad to report that my
car is now for sale (Atlanta, GA).  She is by no means a show car, but she
is a good-looking and reliable driver that has been completely sorted out
mechanically during my time with her.  I hope that she can find a good home.
I am asking $12.5K, but I am happy to negotiate for a quick sale.

Please see the link below for photos and info:

http://userwww.service.emory.edu/~tlamkin/

I've done my best to describe her honestly and completely.

I'm a digest reader, so please reply directly to my email.

Thanks!
-- 
Todd Lamkin
tlamkin at emory.edu
T: (404) 218-3292

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Thu Oct 23 19:46:24 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Thu, 23 Oct 2008 21:46:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
In-Reply-To: <20081022192903.RIYR3522.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <C35D79D7AAC63A4EA56442527D9BF56501A33F0A@mail.ex-centris.net>

Hi Jeff:

I was wondering about that one too. Having only one carb opening when
you pushed the pedal would give a very similar result with the idle jet
providing enough gas to avoid having the engine running on only 3
cylinders.

It's easy enough to have a broken/slipping linkage without it being too
apparent.

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
Sent: October 22, 2008 3:29 PM
To: Jeff; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Opinions wanted

At 11:54 AM 10/22/2008, Jeff wrote:
>I have to put the gas pedal all the way to the floor and wait as
>the engine very slowly builds power. In motion 3500rpm is about the max
I
>can get but sitting at the light pulsing the gas pedal I can get 5000
to
>5500 rpm, but again if I stop pulsing the gas and the choke isn't out
she
>drops to 0 and dies.


Are both carbs attached to the throttle shaft?  Do the butterflies
and pistons work in unison?



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Oct 24 06:14:12 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:14:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TEST
Message-ID: <003501c935d2$07ab4940$0300a8c0@Desktop>

test

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Oct 24 06:26:07 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 08:26:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph on TV alert
Message-ID: <007101c935d3$b1a0d950$0300a8c0@Desktop>

I thought it was a Tr250 some body will get a picture of it
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 11:28 PM
Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert


> There is a TR6 on today's CSI.
> 
> 
> 
> Joe 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Oct 24 13:46:16 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 19:46:16 GMT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph on TV alert
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV110EC3661EED30B37EE0F0F42B0@phx.gbl>

Craig---I saw it also. It was right in the middle of the CSI show. A nice red, with chromed wires. I paused, and backed it up several times in slo-mo to get a better look at it. While it looked like the later TR6 (with the Union Jack). it also had a "chrome" strip running along mid-door and front fender. Someone must've personalized it. It was parked in an artists studio, or so the show went.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Craig
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 5:26 AM
To: Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph on TV alert

I thought it was a Tr250 some body will get a picture of it
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Curry" <spitlist at cox.net>
To: <Triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 23, 2008 11:28 PM
Subject: [TR] Triumph on TV alert


> There is a TR6 on today's CSI.
> 
> 
> 
> Joe 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
> 
> 
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
> 
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com  Fri Oct 24 15:57:47 2008
From: triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com (Jeff)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 17:57:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAIg+Y1+RbYhFpcKguON8dfbCgAAAEAAAABHcOq8dGu9FlkuKm/kPG1sBAAAAAA==@deltaparadigm.com>

I've been reading all the suggestions, plus talking with a couple of
mechanic friends plus I ran a few more diagnostic type tests, ie: yes
linkages seem to be working together and I've boiled it down to this plan of
action.  1. Ignition system, - I don't think this is the problem but.. I'm
going to replace the points, plugs, rotor, wires, capacitor, and distributor
cap and basically do a full tune up. 2. At the same time I'm going to
disassemble the carbs down to the diaphragms and replace them. I ordered a
couple of kits so if I'm going that far down I might as well replace, and
then see where I am with that. I've checked the vacuum hoses etc and
everything seems ok, but bad diaphragms would explain a lot of my symptoms,
especially the thing where the engine idles real nice when the choke is
pulled out. J so.. I ordered some parts today from TRF and am just waiting
for them to arrive. I figure I can start next weekend. Over the next week
I'm going to read this lists archives and a few other tech places to try and
make the job as easy as possible. I have the Haynes, Clymer and Bentley
service books too so. I'll let you know how it goes. I do have one quick
question - what is the best way to turn the engine by hand in order to get
the points up on a ridge for gaping? Thanks for all the great advice!

Jeff

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Oct 24 19:27:45 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 25 Oct 2008 01:27:45 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted, 2
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV1239958AA7AA2AFED77623F42A0@phx.gbl>

Jeff--Before changing out parts, I would do this first:
With the cap and rotor off, and the transmission in any gear (I like to use fourth) push the car either forward of backward, to get the distributor cam to open the points. After checking the gap, then see if the timing mark is up just as the points are about to open, with #1 cylinder about to fire. Use of a static timing light, or circuit tester is good, when the engine doesn't want to idle.

I know you just want the all behind you, but to learn more about your car, it's better to pin point the cause of the immediate problem. Using the shotgun approach is only second best, here.  Anyway, let us all know what you find out, if known!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff
Sent: Friday, October 24, 2008 2:57 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Opinions wanted

I've been reading all the suggestions, plus talking with a couple of
mechanic friends plus I ran a few more diagnostic type tests, ie: yes
linkages seem to be working together and I've boiled it down to this plan of
action.  1. Ignition system, - I don't think this is the problem but.. I'm
going to replace the points, plugs, rotor, wires, capacitor, and distributor
cap and basically do a full tune up. 2. At the same time I'm going to
disassemble the carbs down to the diaphragms and replace them. I ordered a
couple of kits so if I'm going that far down I might as well replace, and
then see where I am with that. I've checked the vacuum hoses etc and
everything seems ok, but bad diaphragms would explain a lot of my symptoms,
especially the thing where the engine idles real nice when the choke is
pulled out. J so.. I ordered some parts today from TRF and am just waiting
for them to arrive. I figure I can start next weekend. Over the next week
I'm going to read this lists archives and a few other tech places to try and
make the job as easy as possible. I have the Haynes, Clymer and Bentley
service books too so. I'll let you know how it goes. I do have one quick
question - what is the best way to turn the engine by hand in order to get
the points up on a ridge for gaping? Thanks for all the great advice!

Jeff
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Fri Oct 24 20:20:04 2008
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Fri, 24 Oct 2008 22:20:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted, 2
In-Reply-To: <70a0ae285929.49024943@wright.edu>
References: <BAY101-DAV1239958AA7AA2AFED77623F42A0@phx.gbl>
	<70a0ae285929.49024943@wright.edu>
Message-ID: <70a0c402761b.49024a14@wright.edu>

 Jeff,
 Agree totally with what Dick said but do have an alternate method of turning
the engine over by hand. With the car in neutral and cap off or coil wire out
I grab the fan and pull on it to turn it over. Also a firm believer in easy
does it pulling on fan. Been doing it for a  l o n g  time with no ill
effects. Also can kinda look at timing marks at the same time so you know
where you're at.
 
 Questions ... When you pull the choke to idle, how much do you have to pull
it?  Just a couple clicks to activate choke high idle speed or a bunch to up
idle and fatten the mixture?  Have you had anyone hold the accelerator all the
way down and check to see how far the carbs are opening? Possibility it could
be some sort of strange linkage problem.
 
 Bill
 
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
> Date: Friday, October 24, 2008 9:28 pm
> Subject: [6pack] Opinions wanted, 2
> To: Jeff <triumphlist at deltaparadigm.com>, 6pack at autox.team.net
>
> > Jeff--Before changing out parts, I would do this first:
> > With the cap and rotor off, and the transmission in any gear (I
> > like to use fourth) push the car either forward of backward, to
> > get the distributor cam to open the points. After checking the
> > gap, then see if the timing mark is up just as the points are
> > about to open, with #1 cylinder about to fire. Use of a static
> > timing light, or circuit tester is good, when the engine doesn't
> > want to idle.
> >
> > I know you just want the all behind you, but to learn more about
> > your car, it's better to pin point the cause of the immediate
> > problem. Using the shotgun approach is only second best,
> > here.  Anyway, let us all know what you find out, if known!
> >
> > Dick

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sun Oct 26 06:32:57 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 08:32:57 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Signing off
Message-ID: <12643346.1225027977313.JavaMail.root@elwamui-darkeyed.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello List,

I will be signing of the list due to Hurricane Ike for a while. It has been nice
reading and commenting on the various topics that come up.

Regards,

Greg Perry

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Oct 26 19:37:26 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 26 Oct 2008 20:37:26 -0600
Subject: [6pack] gas tank sending unit gasket
References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
	<000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local>
	<000301c8a335$1c91a3c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <000601c937dc$f4481fb0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

i've got a roll of cork gasket.  can i use that for a gas tank sending unit 
or do i need to stick with the "paper"

i know not to use that gasket stuff in a tube! 

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Wed Oct 29 14:27:10 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 14:27:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] gas tank sending unit gasket
Message-ID: <219851.56385.qm@web36106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Oliver

I do not see why not. One of the sending units I received came with a
cork gasket.

Dale




________________________________
From: Oliver
<sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 2008
10:37:26 PM
Subject: [6pack] gas tank sending unit gasket

i've got a roll of
cork gasket.  can i use that for a gas tank sending unit 
or do i need to
stick with the "paper"

i know not to use that gasket stuff in a tube!
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Wed Oct 29 15:22:52 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 18:22:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
Message-ID: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Thinking ahead (way ahead) I will be installing a SS exhaust system on the 72 
6 project.

I have Bell systems for the 3 and 4 and they are the best fitting systems 
around and they really sound great.

But I believe the Bell for the 72 TR6 uses the single rear muffler and I would 
like to have a "true" dual exhaust system like the Monza but SS.

I see TRF has part # RFK111 and Moss has part # 860-270. They look similar and 
is what I am looking for.

Has anyone installed either of these systems on their 72 or above 6 and how 
was the fit / sound?

I have heard on the regular Triumph list that the Falcon and Monza systems 
require alot of work to get them installed and leak free.

Does anyone know of another SS system with a true dual exhaust including a SS 
headpipe?

Thanks,

Bob

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Wed Oct 29 18:00:41 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty)
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 18:00:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
In-Reply-To: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0810291800k557a08eerc45cc4ee5dea419a@mail.gmail.com>

Bob,
I have the Monza. I never could get it hung right and ended up taking it to
a local muffer shop and they rehung it for $40. You have to like loud to
like the Monza which I do and I'm very happy with it now. I set off car
alarms in the parking garage at work around 3,000 RPM.

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Oct 29 18:23:40 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 29 Oct 2008 21:23:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
In-Reply-To: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <49090C9C.5050001@maine.rr.com>

Bob;

Rimmer Brothers in the UK sells a number of SS exhaust system options.

Check them out at 
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/triumph/tr6/exhaust#Exhaust%20System%20(Sports)

I bought their System D for my '74 and felt the quality was quite good 
(made by Phoenix
Engineering UK). The  exchange rate USD to British Pound has improved to 
where the
pricing's not too bad, either.... Any system you buy may have to have 
some 'tweaking'
to get it to fit just right...

Good luck,

Dave Friedlander



Bob wrote:

>Thinking ahead (way ahead) I will be installing a SS exhaust system on the 72 
>6 project.
>
>I have Bell systems for the 3 and 4 and they are the best fitting systems 
>around and they really sound great.
>
>But I believe the Bell for the 72 TR6 uses the single rear muffler and I would 
>like to have a "true" dual exhaust system like the Monza but SS.
>
>I see TRF has part # RFK111 and Moss has part # 860-270. They look similar and 
>is what I am looking for.
>
>Has anyone installed either of these systems on their 72 or above 6 and how 
>was the fit / sound?
>
>I have heard on the regular Triumph list that the Falcon and Monza systems 
>require alot of work to get them installed and leak free.
>
>Does anyone know of another SS system with a true dual exhaust including a SS 
>headpipe?
>
>Thanks,
>
>Bob
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Thu Oct 30 05:09:38 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 08:09:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
References: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<df0e1f1e0810291800k557a08eerc45cc4ee5dea419a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004a01c93a88$61a11640$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Good answer..Run it with straight pipes with no muffler it all.
You'll blend in with the Harley and make the guy following every happy
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Marty" <marty.tr6 at gmail.com>
To: "Bob" <yellowtr at adelphia.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 9:00 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] SS exhaust system.


> Bob,
> I have the Monza. I never could get it hung right and ended up taking it 
> to
> a local muffer shop and they rehung it for $40. You have to like loud to
> like the Monza which I do and I'm very happy with it now. I set off car
> alarms in the parking garage at work around 3,000 RPM.
>
> Marty Clark
> Gilbert, AZ
> 1974 TR6 CF17352U
> http://www.triumphowners.com/798
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Oct 30 07:06:50 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 07:06:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
In-Reply-To: <df0e1f1e0810291800k557a08eerc45cc4ee5dea419a@mail.gmail.com>
References: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<df0e1f1e0810291800k557a08eerc45cc4ee5dea419a@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573996BB46@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Bob:

	Don't forget the custom route. A good exhaust shop can fabricate you a true
dual exhaust using SS mufflers such as the DynoMax Ultra Flow or Super Turbo.
Its free to get an estimate, and it would be installed for you and warranted
against leaks and rattles. Since it would be welded instead of clamped, it
would be much stronger as well.

	I just had a custom SS job done on my Mini for $260. It took less room than
the RC40 system I had, so I was able to get my rear sway bar to fit, too.

	Food for thought.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Marty
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 6:01 PM
To: Bob
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] SS exhaust system.

Bob,
I have the Monza. I never could get it hung right and ended up taking it to
a local muffer shop and they rehung it for $40. You have to like loud to
like the Monza which I do and I'm very happy with it now. I set off car
alarms in the parking garage at work around 3,000 RPM.

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu Oct 30 07:23:15 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 14:23:15 +0000
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
Message-ID: <103020081423.24383.4909C352000A8A4C00005F3F2215586394970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com> 

> Bob: 
> 
> Don't forget the custom route. A good exhaust shop can fabricate you a 
> true dual exhaust using SS mufflers such as the DynoMax Ultra Flow or Super Turbo. 
> Its free to get an estimate, and it would be installed for you and warranted 
> against leaks and rattles. Since it would be welded instead of clamped, it 
> would be much stronger as well. 

Don't expect your neighborhood CarX or Midas to be able to do this. Very few muffler shops can properly bend stainless steel pipe without ruining it. Often, a shop will have to buy pre-bent mandrell bent stainless pipe, and then cut it and weld it to shape and size. If you want a custom stainless system, be repared to do some searching in order to find some place that can do it right.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (should be coming home any day now with a new custom ss exhaust)
Highland Park, IL

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Oct 30 09:55:09 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 16:55:09 +0000
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
In-Reply-To: <103020081423.24383.4909C352000A8A4C00005F3F2215586394970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <103020081423.24383.4909C352000A8A4C00005F3F2215586394970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799C8F082B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I also find it dismaying that despite having three major suppliers of TR parts
and many minor suppliers, the only way to get a good SS exhaust system that
performs well, fits well and has acceptable noise levels for continuous street
use is to either buy it from the UK or have it custom made.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of emanteno at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:23 AM
To: Navarrette, Vance; Bob
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] SS exhaust system.

-------------- Original message --------------
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>

> Bob:
>
> Don't forget the custom route. A good exhaust shop can fabricate you a
> true dual exhaust using SS mufflers such as the DynoMax Ultra Flow or Super
Turbo.
> Its free to get an estimate, and it would be installed for you and
warranted
> against leaks and rattles. Since it would be welded instead of clamped, it
> would be much stronger as well.

Don't expect your neighborhood CarX or Midas to be able to do this. Very few
muffler shops can properly bend stainless steel pipe without ruining it.
Often, a shop will have to buy pre-bent mandrell bent stainless pipe, and then
cut it and weld it to shape and size. If you want a custom stainless system,
be repared to do some searching in order to find some place that can do it
right.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U (should be coming home any day now with a new custom ss
exhaust)
Highland Park, IL

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Thu Oct 30 10:00:22 2008
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 11:00:22 -0600
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
In-Reply-To: <103020081423.24383.4909C352000A8A4C00005F3F2215586394970A9D010507@comcast.net>
References: <103020081423.24383.4909C352000A8A4C00005F3F2215586394970A9D010507@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0810301000y9f6e9dfq6e106416aaaac9ff@mail.gmail.com>

Just recieved a TRF email about upcoming weekend specials to include
"select" Stainless Steel exhaust systems. The short cut page was still under
construction so I don't know which "select" systems will be featured yet.

FWIW, I have the Twin Sports Stainless system on my car and I really like
the sound. Better than Monza's as it doesn't droe at steady rpm. It actually
seems to quiet down at steady rpm and thencome alive with the slightest
stroke of the loud pedal.

Shawn

On Thu, Oct 30, 2008 at 8:23 AM, <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:

> -------------- Original message --------------
> From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
>
> > Bob:
> >
> > Don't forget the custom route. A good exhaust shop can fabricate you a
> > true dual exhaust using SS mufflers such as the DynoMax Ultra Flow or
> Super Turbo.
> > Its free to get an estimate, and it would be installed for you and
> warranted
> > against leaks and rattles. Since it would be welded instead of clamped,
> it
> > would be much stronger as well.
>
> Don't expect your neighborhood CarX or Midas to be able to do this. Very
> few muffler shops can properly bend stainless steel pipe without ruining it.
> Often, a shop will have to buy pre-bent mandrell bent stainless pipe, and
> then cut it and weld it to shape and size. If you want a custom stainless
> system, be repared to do some searching in order to find some place that can
> do it right.
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U (should be coming home any day now with a new custom ss
> exhaust)
> Highland Park, IL
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Thu Oct 30 09:57:58 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 12:57:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573996BB46@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<df0e1f1e0810291800k557a08eerc45cc4ee5dea419a@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573996BB46@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF8C06C08E@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

Good thoughts.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance [vance.navarrette at intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 10:06 AM
To: Bob
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] SS exhaust system.

        Bob:

        Don't forget the custom route. A good exhaust shop can fabricate you a
true
dual exhaust using SS mufflers such as the DynoMax Ultra Flow or Super Turbo.
Its free to get an estimate, and it would be installed for you and warranted
against leaks and rattles. Since it would be welded instead of clamped, it
would be much stronger as well.

        I just had a custom SS job done on my Mini for $260. It took less room
than
the RC40 system I had, so I was able to get my rear sway bar to fit, too.

        Food for thought.

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Marty
Sent: Wednesday, October 29, 2008 6:01 PM
To: Bob
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] SS exhaust system.

Bob,
I have the Monza. I never could get it hung right and ended up taking it to
a local muffer shop and they rehung it for $40. You have to like loud to
like the Monza which I do and I'm very happy with it now. I set off car
alarms in the parking garage at work around 3,000 RPM.

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 30 10:27:24 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 10:27:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] off-topic, but cool
Message-ID: <157747.42478.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This should interest those of us who endure the dreaded tin-worm with our
LBC's; stainless steel cars made by Ford for Allegheny Ludlum. Not LBC but
certainly noteworthy to anyone who likes cars.
http://www.alleghenyludlum.com/pages/companyinfo/stainlesscars.asp
 
The 1936 Ford DeLuxe reminds me of the original Burlington Zephyr passenger
train that was introduced in 1934.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Pioneer_Zephyr_full.jpg Trains were my
first love before cars. Still love 'em now.
 
Jim

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Thu Oct 30 10:55:28 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 13:55:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF8C06C08E@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
References: <200810291822.52865.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
	<df0e1f1e0810291800k557a08eerc45cc4ee5dea419a@mail.gmail.com>,
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573996BB46@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF8C06C08E@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
Message-ID: <4909F510.6050100@roadrunner.com>

My experience:

Hated Monza because I like to drive a LOT. Too much droning noise during 
cruise for me. I LOVED the twin sport (Falcon) system RF used to carry. 
It was $$$$ but had a great sound, fit and looked good to boot. This is 
dated experience, the last SS system I fit was over 12 years ago. Yikes!

Jim Franks

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Thu Oct 30 10:57:16 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 13:57:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] off-topic, but cool
In-Reply-To: <157747.42478.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <157747.42478.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4909F57C.6090509@roadrunner.com>

Don't forget John's Delorean!


Jim Franks


Jim Jones wrote:
> This should interest those of us who endure the dreaded tin-worm with our
> LBC's; stainless steel cars made by Ford for Allegheny Ludlum. Not LBC but
> certainly noteworthy to anyone who likes cars.
> http://www.alleghenyludlum.com/pages/companyinfo/stainlesscars.asp
>  
> The 1936 Ford DeLuxe reminds me of the original Burlington Zephyr passenger
> train that was introduced in 1934.
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Image:Pioneer_Zephyr_full.jpg Trains were my
> first love before cars. Still love 'em now.
>  
> Jim
> _______________________________________________

From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com  Thu Oct 30 11:30:08 2008
From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 14:30:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Braided SS Oil Pressure Line
Message-ID: <OFC4C423D8.8272D4AA-ON852574F2.00652DDC-852574F2.0065A2F7@us.ibm.com>

Can someone remind me who it was that mentioned they are now producing
braided SS hose for the oil pressure gauge for the TR6?  I think it was
either Joe Alexander or Ted Schumacher, just can't remember which, and I
apparently didn't keep the email.

Thanks

David B. Johnson

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Oct 30 11:53:51 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 18:53:51 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Braided SS Oil Pressure Line
In-Reply-To: <OFC4C423D8.8272D4AA-ON852574F2.00652DDC-852574F2.0065A2F7@us.ibm.com>
References: <OFC4C423D8.8272D4AA-ON852574F2.00652DDC-852574F2.0065A2F7@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799C8F08A2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

From: Ted Schumacher
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2008 3:15 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; TR list
Subject: [6pack] New Product - TR 6 stainless steel oil pressure gauge line

Greetings list.  There has been quite a bit of discussion recently about
TR6 engine to gauge oil pressure lines. Remember the newest of these
cars is 36 years old.  Realizing the replacement line is made from
finest British plastic, it seemed logical to make this line from
stainless steel braid hose.  So, we did.  First production run is
completed.  Introductory price is $24.95. Price will be good until
November 1st. Then it becomes $32.95  Price does not include shipping.
Line ships by Priority Mail unless otherwise requested.  Line fits late
TR4, TR4A, TR250 and. TR6.  We make other stainless lines such as brake
and clutch as  well as many other parts.  Please check our website when
you have a chance.  Thanks for your time.  Ted

--
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David B Johnson
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 2:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Braided SS Oil Pressure Line

Can someone remind me who it was that mentioned they are now producing
braided SS hose for the oil pressure gauge for the TR6?  I think it was
either Joe Alexander or Ted Schumacher, just can't remember which, and I
apparently didn't keep the email.

Thanks

David B. Johnson

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Thu Oct 30 12:33:27 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:33:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Braided SS Oil Pressure Line
References: <OFC4C423D8.8272D4AA-ON852574F2.00652DDC-852574F2.0065A2F7@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <003d01c93ac6$62052610$0300a8c0@Desktop>

TSI
and I got one to in stall this winter
Craig

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David B Johnson" <dbjohnso at us.ibm.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 2:30 PM
Subject: [6pack] Braided SS Oil Pressure Line


> Can someone remind me who it was that mentioned they are now producing
> braided SS hose for the oil pressure gauge for the TR6?  I think it was
> either Joe Alexander or Ted Schumacher, just can't remember which, and I
> apparently didn't keep the email.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> David B. Johnson
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Thu Oct 30 12:41:17 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:41:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system.
References: <103020081423.24383.4909C352000A8A4C00005F3F2215586394970A9D010507@comcast.net>
	<3ea26c6b0810301000y9f6e9dfq6e106416aaaac9ff@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <004c01c93ac7$7a5df290$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Are they in stock??????


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "shawn loseke" <shawn.loseke at gmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 1:00 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] SS exhaust system.


> Just recieved a TRF email about upcoming weekend specials to include
> "select" Stainless Steel exhaust systems. The short cut page was still 
> under
> construction so I don't know which "select" systems will be featured yet.
>
> FWIW, I have the Twin Sports Stainless system on my car and I really like
> the sound. Better than Monza's as it doesn't droe at steady rpm. It 
> actually
> seems to quiet down at steady rpm and thencome alive with the slightest
> stroke of the loud pedal.
>
> Shawn
>
> On Thu, Oct 30, 2008 at 8:23 AM, <emanteno at comcast.net> wrote:
>
>> -------------- Original message --------------
>> From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
>>
>> > Bob:
>> >
>> > Don't forget the custom route. A good exhaust shop can fabricate you a
>> > true dual exhaust using SS mufflers such as the DynoMax Ultra Flow or
>> Super Turbo.
>> > Its free to get an estimate, and it would be installed for you and
>> warranted
>> > against leaks and rattles. Since it would be welded instead of clamped,
>> it
>> > would be much stronger as well.
>>
>> Don't expect your neighborhood CarX or Midas to be able to do this. Very
>> few muffler shops can properly bend stainless steel pipe without ruining 
>> it.
>> Often, a shop will have to buy pre-bent mandrell bent stainless pipe, and
>> then cut it and weld it to shape and size. If you want a custom stainless
>> system, be repared to do some searching in order to find some place that 
>> can
>> do it right.
>> Irv Korey
>> 74 TR6 CF22767U (should be coming home any day now with a new custom ss
>> exhaust)
>> Highland Park, IL
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl  Thu Oct 30 12:40:07 2008
From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 20:40:07 +0100
Subject: [6pack]  SS exhaust system
Message-ID: <E9C4210A9E924C2E856F2AC33BB1024B@CP1262290A>

Hello Bob, List,

Just a note from a Dutch lurker:

The Falcon and Phoenix Dual SS systems are very similar in construction, 
however the fit and quality of the Phoenix system are regarded better over 
here. I also tend to like the exhaust note better, it has the distinct sound 
but is more mellow. That however is subject to opinion of course!

You should therefore ask either Moss or Rimmer what brand they supply!

Oh and btw, Rimmer gives a 15% discount on weborders up untill november 16th 
if you use quoting source code EX228D


Regards, Marc 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 30 13:02:53 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 16:02:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] E3 Spark Plugs
Message-ID: <5841D2DEF2D944149E231437DEEEC653@BOBSNEWPC>

Has anybody ever tried these E3
(http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/diamondfire.htm) spark plugs? Is it all
marketing hype or is it a valid design and theory
(http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/igniton-therory.htm)? They even show combustion
analysis (http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/combustion-analysis.htm) They come
pre-gapped for automotive use.

Just curious.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 30 13:28:53 2008
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 13:28:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
Message-ID: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not completely off subject.  

I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported that Obama  testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to pollution problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5 years old".  He further stated  "eliminating older cars from the road will reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of pollution".   

This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to "older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry will be out of business. Please pass this around

John H.   1976 TR6

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Thu Oct 30 13:48:19 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 16:48:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a81c01c93ad0$d756fa60$c7fba8c0@hp>

I'm sure he knows the difference between older cars and OLD collector cars.. 
But then again you never know for sure..  But if I have to replace all my 
older stuff with new I'm sure the government will give me the money to do 
it.. LOL     Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <johnehorton at yahoo.com>
To: "auto tox" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "TR6" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <jasont at sema.org>; "Bobby" <azoutlaw at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:28 PM
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.


Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not completely 
off subject.

I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported that 
Obama  testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to 
pollution problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5 
years old".  He further stated  "eliminating older cars from the road will 
reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of pollution".

This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to 
"older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry will 
be out of business. Please pass this around

John H.   1976 TR6

From MEarsing at jesuitcp.org  Thu Oct 30 13:54:02 2008
From: MEarsing at jesuitcp.org (Earsing, Mike)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:54:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
Message-ID: <A3D4BA0E5D0BD047BB2DB5668D52D40C443762C041@mercury2.JESUITCP.ORG>

If O is referring to getting old oil burners off the road...I am in support...if not we will need to educate him about our passion for well maintained classics
Mike

----- Original Message -----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net <6pack-bounces at autox.team.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thu Oct 30 15:48:19 2008
Subject: Re: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.

I'm sure he knows the difference between older cars and OLD collector cars.. 
But then again you never know for sure..  But if I have to replace all my 
older stuff with new I'm sure the government will give me the money to do 
it.. LOL     Bob


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <johnehorton at yahoo.com>
To: "auto tox" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; "TR6" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <jasont at sema.org>; "Bobby" <azoutlaw at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:28 PM
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.


Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not completely 
off subject.

I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported that 
Obama  testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to 
pollution problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5 
years old".  He further stated  "eliminating older cars from the road will 
reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of pollution".

This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to 
"older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry will 
be out of business. Please pass this around

John H.   1976 TR6
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as mearsing at jesuitcp.org

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Oct 30 13:53:46 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 13:53:46 -0700
Subject: [6pack] E3 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <5841D2DEF2D944149E231437DEEEC653@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <5841D2DEF2D944149E231437DEEEC653@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573996BF33@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Bob:

	There is nothing too advanced about these. Bosch has been making a similar
product for years. Yes, the plug life is prolonged at or near peak
performance. So the advantage is real, but modest.

	The plug I am interested in is the pulse plug - http://www.pulstar.com
	David Vizard does some extensive testing of Nology spark plug wires
(http://www.nology.com) in his book, "Tuning the A series Engine". The Nology
wire does the exact same thing as the pulse plug. The Nology tuning circuit is
part of the plug wire. Electrically the pulse plug and the Nology wire are the
same circuit - except Nology does not have a patent on putting the circuit
inside the plug. Nology holds patents on the energy storage plug wire, and
they are the only company making them as far as I know...
	Pulse plugs avoids Nology's patents by moving the circuit inside the plug.
According to Vizard, the power gains are real for attaching an energy storage
device to your plug. His best A series motor ever used the Nology wires. The
gains were modest (2-3 HP on a 1400 cc engine) but real, or so he claimed.
	My only gripe is that the plugs (and the Nology wires for that matter) are
EXPENSIVE! $150 for a set of plugs for our beloved 6s. Waaa!!! And, they wear
out just like conventional plugs, so you need to replace them (perhaps not as
often). In that regard the Nology wires are superior, since they can be used
with cheap spark plugs.
	So, if you want to try out a set of pulse plugs and let us know, I am ALL
EARS!!!

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

	P.S. if the babe on the Nology web page comes with the wires, I am buying TWO
sets of wires and forgetting the plugs.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 1:03 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] E3 Spark Plugs

Has anybody ever tried these E3
(http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/diamondfire.htm) spark plugs? Is it all
marketing hype or is it a valid design and theory
<snip>

Just curious.

Bob

From grego at sandesco.com  Thu Oct 30 13:57:31 2008
From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 13:57:31 -0700
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20081030135731.ieiz2qvr7n488w48@webmail.dsl-only.net>

Well, nobody's perfect :)

I would think this is the least of our worries right now.
Enacting such legislation would be a very long process that would
likely never pass.
After all, this is currently controlled entirely by the states.
Furthermore, enacting this would hurt the very people Obama
would like to protect.

Who is going to pay for all these new cars? :)

Now, making every car pass a basic tail pipe sniff test
might not be such a bad thing, as long as it is reasonable.

-grego

Quoting johnehorton at yahoo.com:

> Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not
> completely off subject.
>
> I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported
> that Obama  testifying in the environmental committee, stated the
> due to pollution problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any
> car over 5 years old".  He further stated  "eliminating older cars
> from the road will reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of
>  pollution".
>
> This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied
>  to "older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts
> industry will be out of business. Please pass this around
>
> John H.   1976 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as grego at sandesco.com

From grant at bowtie6.com  Thu Oct 30 14:03:02 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 17:03:02 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000b01c93ad2$e62b9990$b282ccb0$@com>

Come on guys...  Must we endure yet another 'political' thread?   

This is not the place for this type of stuff.  I thought we had settled this
type of subject on the previous 'politically charged' thread.



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of johnehorton at yahoo.com
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 16:29
To: auto tox; TR6
Cc: jasont at sema.org; Bobby
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.

Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not completely
off subject.  

I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported that
Obama  testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to
pollution problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5
years old".  He further stated  "eliminating older cars from the road will
reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of pollution".   

This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to
"older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry will
be out of business. Please pass this around

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Thu Oct 30 14:06:36 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (kmcnelis at nmsu.edu)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:06:36 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <61736.216.31.110.51.1225400796.squirrel@webmail.nmsu.edu>

THIS IS NOT TRUE.

I just did a complete search of the New York Times, going back to 1851. 
The quotes "no place on the roads for any car over 5 years old" and
""eliminating older cars from the road will reduce emissions, as they are
all major causes of pollution" have NEVER appeared in the New York Times,
spoken by anyone.  The NYT has NEVER printed those words.

Kevin McNelis





> Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not
> completely off subject.
>
> I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported that
> Obama  testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to
> pollution problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5
> years old".  He further stated  "eliminating older cars from the road will
> reduce emissions, as they are all major causes of pollution".
>
> This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to
> "older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry
> will be out of business. Please pass this around
>
> John H.   1976 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu

From massitti at telus.net  Thu Oct 30 14:33:36 2008
From: massitti at telus.net (Orest Massitti)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:33:36 -0600
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <mailman.1466.1225386543.3772.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.1466.1225386543.3772.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <001c01c93ad7$2b2e15f0$818a41d0$@net>

Bob

I'd have to agree with Shawn.

I had an ANSA system on the car on it was way too loud.  I installed the
Falcon SS twin "SPORT" system from TRF 19 years ago and it has been great.
I'd say it's midway between the stock system and the louder ANSA or Monza
sytems 

If you do the install yourself, I would recommend not using u-bolts as they
distort the shape of the pipes.  Instead, I used full wrapping clamps that I
got at my local Volvo dealership.

I have removed the system a couple of times and it's quite easy as the
clamps don't distort the shape of the pipes and the system comes apart and
re-assembles very easily.

Orest
http://www.triumphowners.com/866



"FWIW, I have the Twin Sports Stainless system on my car and I really like
the sound. Better than Monza's as it doesn't droe at steady rpm. It actually
seems to quiet down at steady rpm and thencome alive with the slightest
stroke of the loud pedal."

Shawn
******

From massitti at telus.net  Thu Oct 30 14:38:52 2008
From: massitti at telus.net (Orest Massitti)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 15:38:52 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Tinkering on our cars!
Message-ID: <002201c93ad7$e704c940$b50e5bc0$@net>

List

 

As we try to locate NOS parts and complain about the parts supplies out
there for our babies,  check this out!

 

http://jalopnik.com/5065896/hand+mac-%5Elamborghini-built-in-basement-finall
y-sees-light-of-day

 

Wow!

 

Orest

http://www.triumphowners.com/866

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 30 14:43:10 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 14:43:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system
Message-ID: <956652.28396.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I installed the Falcon SS from TRF about 9 years ago and it seems like it quieted down after awhile. Still barks when you stand on it though. 

Kendall

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Oct 30 14:58:06 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 17:58:06 EDT
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
Message-ID: <c82.30135e63.363b87ee@aol.com>

THIS IS NOT TRUE.

I just did a complete search of the New York  Times, going back to 1851. 
The quotes "no place on the roads for any car  over 5 years old" and
""eliminating older cars from the road will reduce  emissions, as they are
all major causes of pollution" have NEVER appeared in  the New York Times,
spoken by anyone.  The NYT has NEVER printed those  words.

Kevin McNelis


Thank you.  At the risk of offending someone, just think about  it.  Some 
cars aren't even paid off in 5 years.  Plus, emissions  technology has changed 
very little in 5 years.  We would be dumping cars  with 60,000 miles on them?  
That was 2003!! 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel.  Check out Today's Hot 
5 Travel Deals! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)

From shawn.loseke at gmail.com  Thu Oct 30 15:01:13 2008
From: shawn.loseke at gmail.com (shawn loseke)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 16:01:13 -0600
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <956652.28396.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <956652.28396.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <3ea26c6b0810301501j124384e8m817d2a1ccbabad0a@mail.gmail.com>

With u-bolts, determine where you want the bolts to be, then turn them 90
degrees, tighten, turn back to where you wanted them and tighten them down.
Done. Has worked everal time for me anyway.

On Thu, Oct 30, 2008 at 3:43 PM, Kendall Larsen
<mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>wrote:

> I installed the Falcon SS from TRF about 9 years ago and it seems like it
> quieted down after awhile. Still barks when you stand on it though.
>
> Kendall
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as shawn.loseke at gmail.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu Oct 30 15:02:45 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 22:02:45 +0000
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
Message-ID: <1990397453-1225404164-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1955101481-@bxe107.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

While your logic is correct David, since when has logic been considered in political decisions. 

I would venture to say the opposite is more likely. The stupider it is, the better the chance it would become law in D.C.

Lou 
------Original Message------
From: DLylis at aol.com
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu
To: johnehorton at yahoo.com
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Cc: jasont at sema.org
Cc: AZOutlaw at aol.com
Sent: Oct 30, 2008 4:58 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.

THIS IS NOT TRUE.

I just did a complete search of the New York  Times, going back to 1851. 
The quotes "no place on the roads for any car  over 5 years old" and
""eliminating older cars from the road will reduce  emissions, as they are
all major causes of pollution" have NEVER appeared in  the New York Times,
spoken by anyone.  The NYT has NEVER printed those  words.

Kevin McNelis


Thank you.  At the risk of offending someone, just think about  it.  Some 
cars aren't even paid off in 5 years.  Plus, emissions  technology has changed 
very little in 5 years.  We would be dumping cars  with 60,000 miles on them?  
That was 2003!! 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel.  Check out Today's Hot 
5 Travel Deals! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From grant at bowtie6.com  Thu Oct 30 16:18:11 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 19:18:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <61736.216.31.110.51.1225400796.squirrel@webmail.nmsu.edu>
References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<61736.216.31.110.51.1225400796.squirrel@webmail.nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <001201c93ae5$c7e95810$57bc0830$@com>

Provide a link to the article so we can all read it.  Thanks Kevin for
looking this up.

The whole idea of removing every car older than 5 years is ludicrous.
Honestly.  You are going to force everyone to drive a NEW car in this
country?  Please.

Finally, just because it is "in the New York Times", does that make it
'gospel'.  Don't think so folks.  Don't think so.

Joe



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of kmcnelis at nmsu.edu
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 17:07
To: johnehorton at yahoo.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: Bobby; jasont at sema.org
Subject: Re: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.

THIS IS NOT TRUE.

I just did a complete search of the New York Times, going back to 1851. 
The quotes "no place on the roads for any car over 5 years old" and
""eliminating older cars from the road will reduce emissions, as they are
all major causes of pollution" have NEVER appeared in the New York Times,
spoken by anyone.  The NYT has NEVER printed those words.

Kevin McNelis

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Oct 30 16:30:05 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 19:30:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] E3 Spark Plugs
In-Reply-To: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573996BF33@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <5841D2DEF2D944149E231437DEEEC653@BOBSNEWPC>
	<4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573996BF33@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <08F5C662A3C543A084A5ECBB856996CF@BOBSNEWPC>

Hmmmm.....only $25/plug.........I think I'll pass on this one too. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] 
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:54 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] E3 Spark Plugs

 	Bob:

	There is nothing too advanced about these. Bosch has been making a
similar product for years. Yes, the plug life is prolonged at or near peak
performance. So the advantage is real, but modest.

	The plug I am interested in is the pulse plug -
http://www.pulstar.com
	David Vizard does some extensive testing of Nology spark plug wires
(http://www.nology.com) in his book, "Tuning the A series Engine". The
Nology wire does the exact same thing as the pulse plug. The Nology tuning
circuit is part of the plug wire. Electrically the pulse plug and the Nology
wire are the same circuit - except Nology does not have a patent on putting
the circuit inside the plug. Nology holds patents on the energy storage plug
wire, and they are the only company making them as far as I know...
	Pulse plugs avoids Nology's patents by moving the circuit inside the
plug. According to Vizard, the power gains are real for attaching an energy
storage device to your plug. His best A series motor ever used the Nology
wires. The gains were modest (2-3 HP on a 1400 cc engine) but real, or so he
claimed.
	My only gripe is that the plugs (and the Nology wires for that
matter) are EXPENSIVE! $150 for a set of plugs for our beloved 6s. Waaa!!!
And, they wear out just like conventional plugs, so you need to replace them
(perhaps not as often). In that regard the Nology wires are superior, since
they can be used with cheap spark plugs.
	So, if you want to try out a set of pulse plugs and let us know, I
am ALL EARS!!!

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

	P.S. if the babe on the Nology web page comes with the wires, I am
buying TWO sets of wires and forgetting the plugs.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 1:03 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] E3 Spark Plugs

Has anybody ever tried these E3
(http://www.e3sparkplugs.com/diamondfire.htm) spark plugs? Is it all
marketing hype or is it a valid design and theory <snip>

Just curious.

Bob

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Thu Oct 30 16:34:43 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 19:34:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <000b01c93ad2$e62b9990$b282ccb0$@com>
References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<000b01c93ad2$e62b9990$b282ccb0$@com>
Message-ID: <5EBD76E9-3735-42B1-830A-BFA4B20F74BA@mindspring.com>

Joe's right, now I'm having trouble what fluif to use, and what size  
tire to put on, and lastly whether to go with DOT4 or DOT5, or maybe  
DOT6 or 7.

Speaking of fluif, I think I'll require a Newcastle.

Ashford Little
'70 TR6






On Oct 30, 2008, at 5:03 PM, Joseph Grant wrote:

> Come on guys...  Must we endure yet another 'political' thread?
>
> This is not the place for this type of stuff.  I thought we had  
> settled this
> type of subject on the previous 'politically charged' thread.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Oct 30 17:44:19 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 18:44:19 -0600
Subject: [6pack] ever have one of those days???
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
Message-ID: <001e01c93af2$292a3b60$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Thu Oct 30 18:48:10 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 21:48:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <647867.75855.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF8C06C091@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

This kind of discussion came up years ago here in VA, and they always make
provisions for older cars, antiques, and the concept of "grandfathering in"
older cars.  They never have to meet the current standards, just the standards
as of the time of manufacturing.   Obama was just making an observation, not a
proposal.  In Europe they do have some pretty strict standards that include
body rot.  The subtle goal is to keep the auto industry on its toes, and
active.

We were in Switzerland in September for two weeks, and rented a car for about
half of the time.  We drove all over Switzerland and used about 2/3s a tank of
gas.  It was about 45 mpg.  1.8L engine, solid as a rock, quick handling.
This is the indirect result of the rust standards.  Keeps the rustbuckets off
the road, and newer cars there.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
johnehorton at yahoo.com [johnehorton at yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:28 PM
To: auto tox; TR6
Cc: jasont at sema.org; Bobby
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.

Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not completely
off subject.

I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported that Obama
testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to pollution
problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5 years old".  He
further stated  "eliminating older cars from the road will reduce emissions,
as they are all major causes of pollution".

This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to
"older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry will be
out of business. Please pass this around

John H.   1976 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu Oct 30 19:17:32 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 19:17:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:  A quote I read that concernes us.
Message-ID: <41026.32008.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

--- On Thu, 10/30/08, Jim Jones <jimjcmo at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Jim Jones <jimjcmo at yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
To: johnehorton at yahoo.com
Date: Thursday, October 30, 2008, 3:46 PM







I sent this reply to John, but since the floodgate has burst I might as well
pile on. It's unlikely that a law to mandatorily remove deficient vehicles
from the road would pass Congress. ALTHOUGH I have been around long enough to
see what happens when one party controls all three branches of the government.
People get ideas. Crazy things can happen ... 55 MPH speed limit, 85 MPH
speedometers, proposals to put governors on cars (Joan Claybrook), odd-even
driving days proposals, mandatory car-pooling proposals, etc. You can laugh
about this concern that John brought up,  but don't laugh too hard.
 
"There are parts of Missouri, my home state, where MSNBC and the Huffington
Post are not held in high regard. I'd like to see the "new sheriff" come and
try to confiscate their old pickup trucks, let alone their guns. What this
"great idea" has going against it is that seizing older vehicles will most
negatively affect two big parts of their constituency - the older people who
VOTE, and the poor, who they use as an excuse to justify more spending
programs. You can be sure Acorn would holler!  Unless they want to write big
checks to buy old cars, it'll never happen. (I should never say "Never".)
 
As for me, I'm not as right wing as many people are here, but I'm
prepared move my car to an Unspecified Location Somewhere in Missouri where
local law enforcement is more worried about busting meth labs and robberies.
Old cars just aren't on their list of "Things We Gotta Do."
 
Jim

_______________________________________________

From jimhearn1 at comcast.net  Thu Oct 30 21:55:38 2008
From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn)
Date: Thu, 30 Oct 2008 21:55:38 -0700
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF8C06C091@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
Message-ID: <000001c93b14$ec568e50$b1191718@computer>

Say what you like but the more liberals control government (Federal and
State), the more older cars are threatened.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]
On Behalf Of Ruffner, James A *HS
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 6:48 PM
To: johnehorton at yahoo.com; auto tox; TR6
Cc: Bobby; jasont at sema.org
Subject: Re: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.

This kind of discussion came up years ago here in VA, and they always
make
provisions for older cars, antiques, and the concept of "grandfathering
in"
older cars.  They never have to meet the current standards, just the
standards
as of the time of manufacturing.   Obama was just making an observation,
not a
proposal.  In Europe they do have some pretty strict standards that
include
body rot.  The subtle goal is to keep the auto industry on its toes, and
active.

We were in Switzerland in September for two weeks, and rented a car for
about
half of the time.  We drove all over Switzerland and used about 2/3s a
tank of
gas.  It was about 45 mpg.  1.8L engine, solid as a rock, quick
handling.
This is the indirect result of the rust standards.  Keeps the
rustbuckets off
the road, and newer cars there.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of
johnehorton at yahoo.com [johnehorton at yahoo.com]
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 4:28 PM
To: auto tox; TR6
Cc: jasont at sema.org; Bobby
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.

Hi all.  I know off subject is frowned upon.  This is really not
completely
off subject.

I read an article from the 2007 New York times that they  reported that
Obama
testifying in the environmental committee, stated the due to pollution
problems Obama sees "no place on the roads for any car over 5 years
old".  He
further stated  "eliminating older cars from the road will reduce
emissions,
as they are all major causes of pollution".

This could be a major threat to our hobby. If registration is denied to
"older" cars we will loose the entire hobby and a major parts industry
will be
out of business. Please pass this around

John H.   1976 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri Oct 31 03:36:26 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 10:36:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] A quote I read that concernes us.
In-Reply-To: <000001c93b14$ec568e50$b1191718@computer>
References: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF8C06C091@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
	<000001c93b14$ec568e50$b1191718@computer>
Message-ID: <BAY103-W56E4C6249D61E351A1B96E8E200@phx.gbl>

I'm sorry for extending this one post further, but everybody missed the main
point of the initial thread. When I read that he had 'read in a 2007 New York
Times that Obama said...", but no link was included I knew it was one of the
hundreds of email hoaxes about what OB had said about this or that. I think a
lot of people need to look in the mirror and ask themselves why they are so
afraid he is going to win.

No offence intended to the other team.
Sloane :)
_________________________________________________________________
See how Windows connects the people, information, and fun that are part of
your life.
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/msnnkwxp1020093175mrt/direct/01/

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Fri Oct 31 06:34:48 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 08:34:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ever have one of those days???
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
	<001e01c93af2$292a3b60$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <91A264ADEBBF4476B0F99DE8CADD30C8@Dell320>

Yes, I had one yesterday before drinking a six pack of Newcastle. 

I also noticed your antique license plate. I've got one and I'm happy 
the state issues just one plate so I don't have to put one on the front. 
It's good for 5 years and does not require a safety inspection every 
year. No more window stickers!  I've never been stopped by the 
police for this and I've seen many. 


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, October 30, 2008 7:44 PM
Subject: [6pack] ever have one of those days???


> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
> _______________________________________________

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri Oct 31 06:47:19 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 08:47:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Braided SS Oil Pressure Line
In-Reply-To: <OFC4C423D8.8272D4AA-ON852574F2.00652DDC-852574F2.0065A2F7@us.ibm.com>
References: <OFC4C423D8.8272D4AA-ON852574F2.00652DDC-852574F2.0065A2F7@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <490B0C67.7080202@bright.net>

David and list, it was us, TSI.  Commercial message content - we have 
had a great response to this item.  Today is the last day of  $24.95 
introductory price. As of tomorrow it is $32.95.  So, as in they sayi n 
the political arena,order early, order often. Part # is TR56OPG.   
Thanks for all your support. Ted

David B Johnson wrote:
> Can someone remind me who it was that mentioned they are now producing
> braided SS hose for the oil pressure gauge for the TR6?  I think it was
> either Joe Alexander or Ted Schumacher, just can't remember which, and I
> apparently didn't keep the email.
>
> Thanks
>
> David B. Johnson
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com 
> Version: 8.0.175 / Virus Database: 270.8.5/1756 - Release Date: 10/30/2008 7:59 AM
>
>   


-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Oct 31 12:25:33 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 12:25:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system
Message-ID: <40397.56394.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I've had the Falcon sport exhaust on my TR6 for over 15 years.  Originally
purchased from Moss for about $300 - now it goes for over $600.  I love the
sound, and agree with others that it actually seems to quiet down on a long
run, but snaps to in a nice way when you hit the gas.

One thing I've debated
for a long time, but have never followed through on, is cutting off the big
end pipes and installing some sort of twin-tip unit out of each muffler.  Has
anyone done this with their Falcon system?

Joe Merone
CF18928 5-speed

From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com  Fri Oct 31 12:43:19 2008
From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 15:43:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <40397.56394.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <OF843136CE.E4103C28-ON852574F3.006C2B10-852574F3.006C5651@us.ibm.com>

Here's a recent thread from the forum with a custom exhaust setup like you
describe. Probably not a Falcon mufflers but you get the idea.
 http://www.6-pack.org/sixpack/phpbb2/viewtopic.php?t=7721

Dave




             Joe Merone
             <jmerone at rocketma
             il.com>                                                    To
             Sent by:                  6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>
             6pack-bounces at aut                                          cc
             ox.team.net
                                                                   Subject
                                       [6pack] SS exhaust system
             10/31/2008 03:25
             PM








I've had the Falcon sport exhaust on my TR6 for over 15 years.  Originally
purchased from Moss for about $300 - now it goes for over $600.  I love the
sound, and agree with others that it actually seems to quiet down on a long
run, but snaps to in a nice way when you hit the gas.

One thing I've debated
for a long time, but have never followed through on, is cutting off the big
end pipes and installing some sort of twin-tip unit out of each muffler.
Has
anyone done this with their Falcon system?

Joe Merone
CF18928 5-speed
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as dbjohnso at us.ibm.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of graycol.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of pic14157.gif]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ecblank.gif]

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Fri Oct 31 14:57:08 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 17:57:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] SS exhaust system
In-Reply-To: <OF843136CE.E4103C28-ON852574F3.006C2B10-852574F3.006C5651@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF843136CE.E4103C28-ON852574F3.006C2B10-852574F3.006C5651@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <200810311757.08918.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hi,

Thanks for all those replies and advice about a good true dual pipe system.

It sounds like the Falcon SS system is about the best dual pipe, muffler 
system..

Two questions:

Does the Falcon system come with a SS head pipe?
Who currently sells the system?

Thanks alot.

Bob

From bamxn at triad.rr.com  Fri Oct 31 16:10:44 2008
From: bamxn at triad.rr.com (Bruce Moxon)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 19:10:44 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Speaker Size
Message-ID: <9BBA12ADBE0B4AB098AB3482EA740DC8@bruce5aa5d9409>

What is the standard size speaker for the kidneys in a TR6/250?

Bruce

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Fri Oct 31 18:41:08 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 21:41:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Speaker Size
In-Reply-To: <9BBA12ADBE0B4AB098AB3482EA740DC8@bruce5aa5d9409>
References: <9BBA12ADBE0B4AB098AB3482EA740DC8@bruce5aa5d9409>
Message-ID: <01b001c93bc2$ea24bc20$be6e3460$@com>

I believe they are 4 inch.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bruce Moxon
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 7:11 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Speaker Size

What is the standard size speaker for the kidneys in a TR6/250?

Bruce

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Fri Oct 31 19:04:41 2008
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 19:04:41 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
Message-ID: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Was walking the dogs today and a motorcycle passed by.  That led me to think of the Caterham/Hyabusa combination which led me to think of a TR 6 Hyabusa combination.  The CAterham is what, 1,300 lbs lighter than a TR 6 so a higher power to weight ratio.
Not that I'll ever do anything radical to my 6 but (daydreaming) if I were, how much weight could actually be pared off and what parts would need to come off.  And forget the motorcycle engine.  Though yesterday I was riding along side a Honda Rebel and thought it sounded "cute":))

John Summers
'74 TR 6