From janah at att.net  Sat Nov  1 07:21:50 2008
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 10:21:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Badge Removal
Message-ID: <BED32508803F4E37A91970A8A4BECEB4@p4home>

Hi All-

I have a 1970 with the Triumph badge on the rear boot valence.  How is this 
badge removed? Oh, It also has the Overdrive badge as well.

John Cyg 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Nov  1 07:28:26 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 14:28:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Badge Removal
In-Reply-To: <BED32508803F4E37A91970A8A4BECEB4@p4home>
References: <BED32508803F4E37A91970A8A4BECEB4@p4home>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799C8F0C23@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

John I believe the main TRIUMPH badge has two pins near the ends that just
plug into some plastic inserts that secure the badge into the rear panel. The
OD badge just hangs on those two same pins. I believe you can just put a wide
flat lever behind the badge at each end and gently lever the pins out of the
inserts.

If it had already been messed with it may also be glued on, held with
silicone, you name it. So have a good look at and proceed with caution.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Cyganowski
Sent: Saturday, November 01, 2008 10:22 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Badge Removal

Hi All-

I have a 1970 with the Triumph badge on the rear boot valence.  How is this
badge removed? Oh, It also has the Overdrive badge as well.

John Cyg

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  1 14:49:33 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 14:49:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Badge Removal
References: <BED32508803F4E37A91970A8A4BECEB4@p4home>
Message-ID: <918980.45446.qm@web36104.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John 

Using a small screwdriver or a 90 degree dental pick gentily pry the
badge up. once up a bit, if you have the plastic tools continue prying till it
comes off.

These badges have two pins that go into plastic mounts that when
you push them on they snap into.

Dale




________________________________
From: John Cyganowski <janah at att.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Saturday,
November 1, 2008 10:21:50 AM
Subject: [6pack] Badge Removal

Hi All-

I have a
1970 with the Triumph badge on the rear boot valence.  How is this badge
removed? Oh, It also has the Overdrive badge as well.

John Cyg
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From bamxn at triad.rr.com  Sat Nov  1 15:19:32 2008
From: bamxn at triad.rr.com (Bruce Moxon)
Date: Sat, 1 Nov 2008 18:19:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Speaker Size
Message-ID: <E2E8C60B76834A2B8A8F9B0A79DB5F1C@bruce5aa5d9409>

Thanks to all that responded. It sound like I will also have to be concerned
with depth. I have looked at several  speakers of this size and the depth is
averaging about 1 3/4". My car doesn't have a radio, but was thinking about
putting in the " Model One" from Retrosound advertised in the latest Moss
Holiday flyer. I like the idea of using a thumb drive instead of a combo
radio/CD player. Anybody used one of these units?

Thanks,
Bruce
TR250


>Date: Fri, 31 Oct 2008 21:41:08 -0400
>From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
>Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaker Size
>To: "'Bruce Moxon'" <bamxn at triad.rr.com>, <6pack at autox.team.net>
>Message-ID: <01b001c93bc2$ea24bc20$be6e3460$@com>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII"

>I believe they are 4 inch.

>-----Original Message-----
>From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack->bounces at autox.team.net]
On.Behalf Of Bruce Moxon
>Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 7:11 PM
>To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: [6pack] Speaker Size

>What is the standard size speaker for the kidneys in a TR6/250?

>Bruce

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Nov  2 13:07:05 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2008 12:07:05 -0800
Subject: [6pack] heater valve control cable
References: <E2E8C60B76834A2B8A8F9B0A79DB5F1C@bruce5aa5d9409>
Message-ID: <009201c93d26$942fc520$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello,
Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve.
Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come  loose
on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be tightened or
is this the way these cables usually fail? Thank you and regards, Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
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From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sun Nov  2 11:09:06 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 02 Nov 2008 13:09:06 -0500
Subject: [6pack] heater valve control cable
In-Reply-To: <009201c93d26$942fc520$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <E2E8C60B76834A2B8A8F9B0A79DB5F1C@bruce5aa5d9409>
	<009201c93d26$942fc520$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <8CB0B2D3AEF7B90-FAC-17E9@WEBMAIL-MZ14.sysops.aol.com>

 Bob,

The outer sheath has a clamp that is held by a screw under the dash.? You should be able to look under the dash on the drivers side above the gearbox hump and see right where the clamp is.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 3:07 pm
Subject: [6pack] heater valve control cable










Hello,
Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve.
Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come  loose
on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be tightened or
is this the way these cables usually fail? Thank you and regards, Bob

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Nov  2 13:56:59 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 15:56:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] heater valve control cable
In-Reply-To: <8CB0B2D3AEF7B90-FAC-17E9@WEBMAIL-MZ14.sysops.aol.com>
References: <E2E8C60B76834A2B8A8F9B0A79DB5F1C@bruce5aa5d9409><009201c93d26$942fc520$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<8CB0B2D3AEF7B90-FAC-17E9@WEBMAIL-MZ14.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <8F03FBA4491D40BA948E661522331F99@BOBSNEWPC>

If you're talking about the cable that connects to the heater control valve
at the engine, there's a clamp that holds the outer cover in place so the
inner wire can move. If you need a picture, let me know.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 1:09 PM
To: rpeglow at optonline.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] heater valve control cable

 Bob,

The outer sheath has a clamp that is held by a screw under the dash.? You
should be able to look under the dash on the drivers side above the gearbox
hump and see right where the clamp is.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 3:07 pm
Subject: [6pack] heater valve control cable










Hello,
Heater control cable hardly moves center wire at heat control valve.
Dashboard end moves properly, so it seems the outer sheath has come  loose
on control side. Is there something that comes loose and can be tightened or
is this the way these cables usually fail? Thank you and regards, Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sun Nov  2 18:54:53 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 15:54:53 -1000
Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal
Message-ID: <E70BB9F0571643B5AEED2A5486B56789@PamHome>

All,

I've got the body off the car and am now getting ready to remove everything
else from the frame to complete the frame work.  My question: Is the tranny
completely sealed so when it is disengaged from the motor, it won't leak oil?
I plan on putting it in the corner for a while and don't want tranny oil all
over the garage floor.

Thanks,

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Nov  2 18:59:43 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 20:59:43 EST
Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal
Message-ID: <c37.4152d32b.363fb50f@aol.com>

It will not leak oil, any more than it leaks oil now.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel.  Check out Today's Hot 
5 Travel Deals! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Sun Nov  2 19:00:40 2008
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 21:00:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal
In-Reply-To: <E70BB9F0571643B5AEED2A5486B56789@PamHome>
References: <E70BB9F0571643B5AEED2A5486B56789@PamHome>
Message-ID: <COL101-W6701B934441D394E3AD5EFC61D0@phx.gbl>

Then don't stand it on the bell-housing.
It leaks for sure that way...




> From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com> To: 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 2 Nov
2008 15:54:53 -1000> Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal> > All,> > I've got the
body off the car and am now getting ready to remove everything> else from the
frame to complete the frame work. My question: Is the tranny> completely
sealed so when it is disengaged from the motor, it won't leak oil?> I plan on
putting it in the corner for a while and don't want tranny oil all> over the
garage floor.> > Thanks,> > Mark Bullard> '74 TR6> Kailua, HI>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as alanatkinson at hotmail.com
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From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sun Nov  2 19:14:04 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 2 Nov 2008 16:14:04 -1000
Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal
References: <E70BB9F0571643B5AEED2A5486B56789@PamHome>
	<490E5C07.3050009@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <0D226EDA6FE34144AA8CF125D6F74C7F@PamHome>

Thanks All,

Appreciate the quick response.

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Michael Porter" <mdporter at dfn.com>
To: "Mark" <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, November 02, 2008 4:03 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny removal


> Mark wrote:
>> All,
>>
>> I've got the body off the car and am now getting ready to remove 
>> everything
>> else from the frame to complete the frame work.  My question: Is the 
>> tranny
>> completely sealed so when it is disengaged from the motor, it won't leak 
>> oil?
>> I plan on putting it in the corner for a while and don't want tranny oil 
>> all
>> over the garage floor.
>>
>>
>
> Technically, yes, it will hold oil if left upright (in the position it's 
> in when installed in the car).  Left on its side, it will probably leak 
> some oil from the shifter rod area.
>
>
> Do the sensible thing and lay down a couple of layers of cardboard and 
> place it those.  That should take care of the minimal leakage that will 
> occur.  After all, it leaked in the car, right?  :)
>
>
> Cheers.
>
> -- 
>
>
> Michael Porter
> Roswell, NM
>
>
> Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking 
> distance....

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Nov  2 23:00:25 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2008 06:00:25 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV389AF3E942A9382AD56D4F41D0@phx.gbl>

Mark---There's an air bleeder hole on the (shifter) top cover. If you stand the tranny on end, oil will come out here. Best to lay it down, or drain out the oil.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Mark
Sent: Sunday, November 2, 2008 5:54 PM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal

All,

I've got the body off the car and am now getting ready to remove everything
else from the frame to complete the frame work.  My question: Is the tranny
completely sealed so when it is disengaged from the motor, it won't leak oil?
I plan on putting it in the corner for a while and don't want tranny oil all
over the garage floor.

Thanks,

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Mon Nov  3 05:16:36 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 14:16:36 +0200
Subject: [6pack] Tranny removal
In-Reply-To: <E70BB9F0571643B5AEED2A5486B56789@PamHome>
References: <E70BB9F0571643B5AEED2A5486B56789@PamHome>
Message-ID: <e343023f0811030416n43dea88fm8c4c235f946802fa@mail.gmail.com>

It won't leak any more oil than it did while it was installed in the car,
unless you lay it on its side.
Best regards,
Bob

On Mon, Nov 3, 2008 at 3:54 AM, Mark <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com> wrote:

> All,
>
> I've got the body off the car and am now getting ready to remove everything
> else from the frame to complete the frame work.  My question: Is the tranny
> completely sealed so when it is disengaged from the motor, it won't leak
> oil?
> I plan on putting it in the corner for a while and don't want tranny oil
> all
> over the garage floor.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Mark Bullard
> '74 TR6
> Kailua, HI
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Nov  3 09:10:58 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 11:10:58 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
In-Reply-To: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811031103130.29133@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, John Summers wrote:

> Was walking the dogs today and a motorcycle passed by.  That led me to 
> think of the Caterham/Hyabusa combination which led me to think of a TR 
> 6 Hyabusa combination.  The CAterham is what, 1,300 lbs lighter than a 
> TR 6 so a higher power to weight ratio. Not that I'll ever do anything 
> radical to my 6 but (daydreaming) if I were, how much weight could 
> actually be pared off and what parts would need to come off.  And forget 
> the motorcycle engine.  Though yesterday I was riding along side a Honda 
> Rebel and thought it sounded "cute":))

I can tell you how to get a basic TR6 down to about 1950 pounds, after 
that, you're on your own.

Toss all the body steel, bumpers and interior. That's pretty much it.

The biggest "gains" in weight reduction are gotten by tossing the bonnet 
and boot lid. Depending on the year your car was made, the bumpers weigh 
< 50 pounds each to a LOT more (assuming that you toss the bumper and all 
brackets up to the frame.) But you can get rid of between 150 and 300 
pounds with the bumpers. If the car will be street driven, go to the 
early-style bumpers and brackets and you'll lose a net of about 150 
pounds.

Everything else you toss gets less and less advantage.

Also note that some of the 'glass fenders weigh about the same as stock. 
This is because they are cast fairly thick so as to be more durable. Thin 
fenders can really shed some weight but come at the cost that it's hard to 
keep them looking good as stone chips, star cracks and idiots leaning on 
them tend crack the paint (and worse).

> John Summers
> '74 TR 6

If you want to compare notes, check with me off-list.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Mon Nov  3 09:43:07 2008
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 11:43:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811031103130.29133@isis.mit.edu>
References: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811031103130.29133@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <COL101-W317F89D32DA3AEE0DBAB4FC61D0@phx.gbl>

Google H1V8.
Lament the shrinking of your retirement fund, and then calculate how many
relatives you'll need to sell into slavery to buy one.
Weight reduction - we don't need no steenking weight reduction...




> Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 11:10:58 -0500> From: lang at isis.mit.edu> To:
rivers2hills at yahoo.com> CC: 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Idle
mind> > On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, John Summers wrote:> > > Was walking the dogs
today and a motorcycle passed by. That led me to > > think of the
Caterham/Hyabusa combination which led me to think of a TR > > 6 Hyabusa
combination. The CAterham is what, 1,300 lbs lighter than a > > TR 6 so a
higher power to weight ratio. Not that I'll ever do anything > > radical to my
6 but (daydreaming) if I were, how much weight could > > actually be pared off
and what parts would need to come off. And forget > > the motorcycle engine.
Though yesterday I was riding along side a Honda > > Rebel and thought it
sounded "cute":))> > I can tell you how to get a basic TR6 down to about 1950
pounds, after > that, you're on your own.> > Toss all the body steel, bumpers
and interior. That's pretty much it.> > The biggest "gains" in weight
reduction are gotten by tossing the bonnet > and boot lid. Depending on the
year your car was made, the bumpers weigh > < 50 pounds each to a LOT more
(assuming that you toss the bumper and all > brackets up to the frame.) But
you can get rid of between 150 and 300 > pounds with the bumpers. If the car
will be street driven, go to the > early-style bumpers and brackets and you'll
lose a net of about 150 > pounds.> > Everything else you toss gets less and
less advantage.> > Also note that some of the 'glass fenders weigh about the
same as stock. > This is because they are cast fairly thick so as to be more
durable. Thin > fenders can really shed some weight but come at the cost that
it's hard to > keep them looking good as stone chips, star cracks and idiots
leaning on > them tend crack the paint (and worse).> > > John Summers> > '74
TR 6> > If you want to compare notes, check with me off-list.> > regards,>
rml>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------->
Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent> Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared |
Triumph!> Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489>
--------------------------------------------------------------------------->
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as alanatkinson at hotmail.com
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From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Mon Nov  3 10:20:28 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 10:20:28 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811031103130.29133@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <BEF10F2FD4494ABFBD99435B770B49A1@nmsu.edu>

Robert, John and all,

At 6'0 and 275 pounds, the easiest way to lighten MY 6 is to simply get out
of it.

Of course, that kind of defeats the purpose, now doesn't it??

Kevin





L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA
 
New Mexico State University
505-646-2485

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Lang
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 9:11 AM
To: John Summers
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Idle mind

On Fri, 31 Oct 2008, John Summers wrote:

> Was walking the dogs today and a motorcycle passed by.  That led me to 
> think of the Caterham/Hyabusa combination which led me to think of a TR 
> 6 Hyabusa combination.  The CAterham is what, 1,300 lbs lighter than a 
> TR 6 so a higher power to weight ratio. Not that I'll ever do anything 
> radical to my 6 but (daydreaming) if I were, how much weight could 
> actually be pared off and what parts would need to come off.  And forget 
> the motorcycle engine.  Though yesterday I was riding along side a Honda 
> Rebel and thought it sounded "cute":))

I can tell you how to get a basic TR6 down to about 1950 pounds, after 
that, you're on your own.

Toss all the body steel, bumpers and interior. That's pretty much it.

The biggest "gains" in weight reduction are gotten by tossing the bonnet 
and boot lid. Depending on the year your car was made, the bumpers weigh 
< 50 pounds each to a LOT more (assuming that you toss the bumper and all 
brackets up to the frame.) But you can get rid of between 150 and 300 
pounds with the bumpers. If the car will be street driven, go to the 
early-style bumpers and brackets and you'll lose a net of about 150 
pounds.

Everything else you toss gets less and less advantage.

Also note that some of the 'glass fenders weigh about the same as stock. 
This is because they are cast fairly thick so as to be more durable. Thin 
fenders can really shed some weight but come at the cost that it's hard to 
keep them looking good as stone chips, star cracks and idiots leaning on 
them tend crack the paint (and worse).

> John Summers
> '74 TR 6

If you want to compare notes, check with me off-list.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as kmcnelis at nmsu.edu

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Nov  3 11:17:10 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 10:17:10 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
In-Reply-To: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B2BA674@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	John:

	While stripping weight out would improve performance, it rapidly diminishes
the enjoyment in everyday driving. Driving in the rain without a soft top for
example, is only for the true manly enthusiast =:-o
	The same result can be obtained with judicious hot rodding. Raising the
compression to 9.5:1 is good for 12HP according to my engine simulator. This
is equivalent to shedding roughly 250lbs of weight, and it will not affect any
aspect of operating or enjoying the car and fuel economy will go up slightly.
	K&N air filters will add 2-3 HP, which is equivalent to ~50 lbs, and so on.
Ditching that Leyland muffler would be a big improvement too.

	In short *MILD* hot rodding of the car will get you lots of benefits and
little downside. It is a reasonable alternative to yanking out a seat or
removing the boot lid and bonnet. Tossing in a gnarly cam on the other hand,
will get you lots of downside along with the performance, so there are limits
to this option.

	Still, I would prefer some hot rodding to removing pieces of the car. But
then, I was an abused child so I tend to prefer the less manly options.

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Summers
Sent: Friday, October 31, 2008 7:05 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind

<snip>

Not that I'll ever do anything radical to my 6 but (daydreaming) if I were,
how much weight could actually be pared off and what parts would need to come
off?

<snip>

John Summers
'74 TR 6

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Mon Nov  3 11:38:20 2008
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 12:38:20 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Carb. O Rings
Message-ID: <CA236F8D355645C398AD7A724EC4CAC8@stevekirsisPC>

My carb. damper on #1 Stromberg 175 will not hold oil. I have received the O
ring and star washer. Can anyone help me on installation? Thanks very much for
any info. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson, '75 Pimento.

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Mon Nov  3 11:46:40 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 10:46:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Lightening your TR 6
Message-ID: <545148.65818.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Another option to Kevin McNelis' suggestion that  
 
<At 6'0 and 275 pounds, the easiest way to lighten MY 6 is to simply get out
of it>
 
I'd like to offer a second option---Since I'm 5'7" and 170 lbs you could just
give the car to me and then it would automatically be lighter by 105 lbs when
I'm in it instead of you.  Ain't life simple when your mind starts to go.
 
Mike Lunsford, 69 and 70 TR6s, driver a little light in the head too
 
 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Nov  3 11:54:36 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 10:54:36 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Lightening your TR 6
In-Reply-To: <545148.65818.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <545148.65818.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B2BA6F2@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Mike:

        Or....

        Kevin could simply drink enough beer until he gets light headed. That
will remove some weight from the car too...

        Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 10:47 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Lightening your TR 6

Another option to Kevin McNelis' suggestion that

<At 6'0 and 275 pounds, the easiest way to lighten MY 6 is to simply get out
of it>

I'd like to offer a second option---Since I'm 5'7" and 170 lbs you could just
give the car to me and then it would automatically be lighter by 105 lbs when
I'm in it instead of you.  Ain't life simple when your mind starts to go.

Mike Lunsford, 69 and 70 TR6s, driver a little light in the head too

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Mon Nov  3 13:18:45 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 14:18:45 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
References: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <03259298883D47FFA0654897F7E7E0CB@Dell320>

Mine always seems to handle better when transporting a passenger. I'm not 
quite sure
why this is. If she weighs around 110 lbs and wearing a minimal amount of 
clothing, it
sure seems like the TR6 handles remarkably better than when I am alone.

http://www.triumphowners.com/1069

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Nov  3 13:22:59 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:22:59 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
In-Reply-To: <03259298883D47FFA0654897F7E7E0CB@Dell320>
References: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<03259298883D47FFA0654897F7E7E0CB@Dell320>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811031522260.29133@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 3 Nov 2008, Stuart Thompson wrote:

> Mine always seems to handle better when transporting a passenger. I'm not 
> quite sure
> why this is. If she weighs around 110 lbs and wearing a minimal amount of 
> clothing, it
> sure seems like the TR6 handles remarkably better than when I am alone.

Hmmm.... I am SO not going there on this one...

:-0

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From Btp44 at aol.com  Mon Nov  3 13:43:33 2008
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:43:33 EST
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
Message-ID: <d40.2bd13b85.3640bc75@aol.com>

Doubling up on prunes or other laxatives might pay big weight loss dividends 
too.
Berry Price
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel.  Check out Today's Hot 
5 Travel Deals! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)

From andr.jrsquared at verizon.net  Mon Nov  3 13:43:58 2008
From: andr.jrsquared at verizon.net (Jimmy Richards)
Date: Mon, 03 Nov 2008 14:43:58 -0600
Subject: [6pack] mallory dizzy
Message-ID: <004101c93df4$e54ca5d0$afe5f170$@jrsquared@verizon.net>

Oh wise ones, 

 

I have a 74 TR6 with a warmed over engine.

 

I have a Mallory dual point dizzy, part number 2767801.  I plan to use it
without the vacuum advanced.   It was installed with the point gaps set to
35 degrees of total dwell, and the static timing set at 12 degrees btdc.
When  I checked for total advance at 3500 rpm, it was 16 degrees btdc.  I'm
guessing that means there's a whopping 4 degrees of mechanical advance.

 

After dismantling the unit and looking at the information online, there
appears to be a couple of adjustable stops  that set the full advance.  The
instructions say that you set the mechanical advance with a "key".   I would
like to set the full mechanical advance to 24 degrees.  

 

Since the advance curve kit that comes with the key and springs costs $40 -
$50, I would rather not buy it.   As far as I can tell, I need a YL style
advance key.

 

Could someone out there with this dizzy and the key give me the dimension
from the key that sets the full advance to 24 degrees.

 

Thanks,

Jimmy Richards

74 TR-6  Black

http://www.triumphowners.com/1353

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Nov  3 13:56:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:56:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Idle mind
In-Reply-To: <COL101-W2A557D16AE5F95328E18EC61D0@phx.gbl>
References: <583279.98129.qm@web36205.mail.mud.yahoo.com><Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811031103130.29133@isis.mit.edu>
	<COL101-W317F89D32DA3AEE0DBAB4FC61D0@phx.gbl>
	<CCD27679BAD94164A65CD60616339BBF@BOBSNEWPC>
	<COL101-W2A557D16AE5F95328E18EC61D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <25B251F478C04E858B34D9EC85F1A4F2@BOBSNEWPC>

Alan.
I got the 140 lbs right off of their site where it says......."The engine is
estimated to have a fully dressed weight of 140lbs and can produce 175 to
250 hp NA; and much more in turbo form" 

But at either 140 or 200, it's a pretty light V8. 
 
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/>  
 

________________________________

From: Alan Atkinson [mailto:alanatkinson at hotmail.com] 
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:26 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 'Robert Lang'
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Idle mind


It's 200lbs, not 140 iirc.
Even so, that's a slight improvement over the 420 and change of the stock
lump. 
It even makes the old favorite BOPR v8 look lardy at 380lbs and up, and I'll
bet it's easier to fit in the engine bay.

If someone wants to spot me the purchase price, I'll be happy to try it and
report back...



________________________________

From rick.carroll at teradyne.com  Mon Nov  3 14:02:12 2008
From: rick.carroll at teradyne.com (rick.carroll at teradyne.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 16:02:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Rick Carroll/Bos/Teradyne is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OF66313775.800332A4-ON852574F6.00738F22-852574F6.00738F21@notes.teradyne.com>

I will be out of the office starting  11/03/2008 and will not return until
11/10/2008.

 Please contact Mike Palumbo for urgent issues at 408-451-4303

Regards,

Rick

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Mon Nov  3 14:53:12 2008
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 15:53:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Carb. O Rings
In-Reply-To: <004a01c93de9$1e20a520$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <CA236F8D355645C398AD7A724EC4CAC8@stevekirsisPC>
	<004a01c93de9$1e20a520$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <62C25BF567F74D3E96EE7EB2F283D5FD@stevekirsisPC>

Thanks, just what I needed. Steve Kirsis
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steve Kirsis" <sakirsis at consolidated.net>
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb. O Rings


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Kirsis" <sakirsis at consolidated.net>
> To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:38 PM
> Subject: [6pack] Carb. O Rings
>
>
>> My carb. damper on #1 Stromberg 175 will not hold oil. I have received 
>> the
>> O
>> ring and star washer. Can anyone help me on installation? Thanks very 
>> much
>> for
>> any info. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson, '75 Pimento.
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Nov  3 15:52:22 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 16:52:22 -0600
Subject: [6pack] fuel line issues
References: <CA236F8D355645C398AD7A724EC4CAC8@stevekirsisPC>
	<004a01c93de9$1e20a520$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
	<62C25BF567F74D3E96EE7EB2F283D5FD@stevekirsisPC>
Message-ID: <002f01c93e07$5f3ac4f0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

tempted as i am to ask about dot 3, 4,or 5, or tire sizes, i actually have 
another question.

last long trip i had a fuel issue.  put in temporary electric pump and drove 
home.  replaced mechanical fuel pump, had another fuel issue.

drained the tank, took it out to be refurbed professionally, replaced all 
the rubber hoses, and put carb cleaner in and blew it out, several times 
each end.

put the fuel back in, drove the car, filled it up, and just had the same 
issue.  put the electric pump back in, no fuel in the see through filter up 
front.

rocked the car up and down a dozen times, and got fuel through to the 
filter.  reconnected the mechanical one, took out the electric, and drove 
home.

i'm thinking i should not have put that gas back in the car; there's 
something floating in it?  or did i not sufficiently clean out the steel 
fuel line?

and what to do now?  can i use bottles and bottles of carb cleaner instead? 

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Nov  3 16:39:06 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 18:39:06 -0500
Subject: [6pack] fuel line issues
In-Reply-To: <002f01c93e07$5f3ac4f0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <CA236F8D355645C398AD7A724EC4CAC8@stevekirsisPC><004a01c93de9$1e20a520$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local><62C25BF567F74D3E96EE7EB2F283D5FD@stevekirsisPC>
	<002f01c93e07$5f3ac4f0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4720E406F5DC45AF8DAC1C3C2243EEB4@Robert>

Sound like perhaps there is a blockage with the vent Canister or possibly
some left over sealant getting in the way of where the line hooks up into
the tank.

Just my two cents.

A friend's TR3 had the same issues and he found the vent clogged with the
sloshing compound they use to coat the interior. Exactly 9.5 miles the
engine would die. Waited a few moments and it would start up again.
Obviously the vacuum would build up and by waiting it would slowly let air
back in. He ran a wire down the vent tube and unclogged it. Car runs great
now.

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Nov  3 17:27:54 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 19:27:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Carb. O Rings
In-Reply-To: <62C25BF567F74D3E96EE7EB2F283D5FD@stevekirsisPC>
References: <CA236F8D355645C398AD7A724EC4CAC8@stevekirsisPC>
	<004a01c93de9$1e20a520$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
	<62C25BF567F74D3E96EE7EB2F283D5FD@stevekirsisPC>
Message-ID: <000b01c93e14$2e9f0010$8bdd0030$@com>

Here,

I have detailed pictures and an article on how to do this...

file:///C:/Documents%20and%20Settings/Joseph%20Grant/My%20Documents/My%20Web
%20Sites/bowtie6/CarbRepair/index.htm


joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Steve Kirsis
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 16:53
To: Oliver
Cc: 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb. O Rings

Thanks, just what I needed. Steve Kirsis
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Steve Kirsis" <sakirsis at consolidated.net>
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 1:19 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb. O Rings


>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Steve Kirsis" <sakirsis at consolidated.net>
> To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 12:38 PM
> Subject: [6pack] Carb. O Rings
>
>
>> My carb. damper on #1 Stromberg 175 will not hold oil. I have received 
>> the
>> O
>> ring and star washer. Can anyone help me on installation? Thanks very 
>> much
>> for
>> any info. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson, '75 Pimento.

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Nov  3 17:32:37 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 19:32:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] fuel line issues
In-Reply-To: <002f01c93e07$5f3ac4f0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <CA236F8D355645C398AD7A724EC4CAC8@stevekirsisPC>
	<62C25BF567F74D3E96EE7EB2F283D5FD@stevekirsisPC>
	<002f01c93e07$5f3ac4f0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <200811031932.37262.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

On Monday 03 November 2008 17:52:22 Oliver wrote:
> tempted as i am to ask about dot 3, 4,or 5, or tire sizes, i actually have
> another question.
>
> last long trip i had a fuel issue.  put in temporary electric pump and
> drove home.  replaced mechanical fuel pump, had another fuel issue.
>
> drained the tank, took it out to be refurbed professionally, replaced all
> the rubber hoses, and put carb cleaner in and blew it out, several times
> each end.
>
> put the fuel back in, drove the car, filled it up, and just had the same
> issue.  put the electric pump back in, no fuel in the see through filter up
> front.
>
> rocked the car up and down a dozen times, and got fuel through to the
> filter.  reconnected the mechanical one, took out the electric, and drove
> home.
>
> i'm thinking i should not have put that gas back in the car; there's
> something floating in it?  or did i not sufficiently clean out the steel
> fuel line?
>
> and what to do now?  can i use bottles and bottles of carb cleaner instead?
> _______________________________________________
Oliver,

What I would do is dis-connect the fuel line at the rubber hose entering the 
fuel pump and hold it down a bit. When the end of the open pipe is below the 
fuel level in the tank, gas should flow out the gas line. That is unless you 
have a plug up or a vent problem.

If you re-use suspect gas, it is best to run it through a filter of some sort. 
Those filters you get at the auto paint store with a regular funnel work 
great for that application.

Bob

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Mon Nov  3 17:38:52 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 19:38:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Hitachi SU conversion
Message-ID: <200811031938.52861.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

Hello,

There is an add on Ebay from Paltech offering a Hitachi SU HS6 conversion for 
TR6's.

Has anyone converted to either SU HS6s or this Hitachi SU HS6?

If so what is your opinion?

Where does the vacuum advance connect?

What about air filters? Take the stock setup?

I would prefer to convert to SUs since I have zero experience with ZS carbs 
and since the ZS would have to be rebuilt anyway it is not an issue of $.

Bob 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Nov  3 18:18:04 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 20:18:04 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Hitachi SU conversion
In-Reply-To: <200811031938.52861.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
References: <200811031938.52861.yellowtr@adelphia.net>
Message-ID: <679E947A72504E349C504C3A57D09555@BOBSNEWPC>

Bob,
I have no experience with the Hitachi's but I'll vouch for Jeff Palya who is
as good a carb rebuilder as you'll find. I'm sure he'd spend lots of time on
the phone with you going over the pro's and con's of the various carb types.
I spent about an hour on the phone with him before he rebuilt my carbs 3
years ago.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2008 7:39 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Hitachi SU conversion

Hello,

There is an add on Ebay from Paltech offering a Hitachi SU HS6 conversion
for TR6's.

Has anyone converted to either SU HS6s or this Hitachi SU HS6?

If so what is your opinion?

Where does the vacuum advance connect?

What about air filters? Take the stock setup?

I would prefer to convert to SUs since I have zero experience with ZS carbs
and since the ZS would have to be rebuilt anyway it is not an issue of $.

Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Nov  3 19:12:09 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 21:12:09 EST
Subject: [6pack] fuel line issues
Message-ID: <c64.363017ba.36410979@aol.com>

I am thinkin' 'bout the two one way valves in the mechanical fuel  pump.  
Have you replaced them?  Also you do not mention if you  replaced the fuel 
filter.  If I understand your post correctly, I might  interpret the problem to be 
that the mechanical fuel pump, which delivers little  pressure as is, does not 
push fuel past the valve in the fuel pump.  The  electric, with more pressure, 
is able to.
Just my two Euros worth.
 
Maybe you should try different size tires.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel.  Check out Today's Hot 
5 Travel Deals! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Nov  3 19:14:32 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 21:14:32 EST
Subject: [6pack] Hitachi SU conversion
Message-ID: <d6a.3a243327.36410a08@aol.com>

I agree.  If Jeff has them, I would take him at his word.  He  does good work.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Plan your next getaway with AOL Travel.  Check out Today's Hot 
5 Travel Deals! 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212416248x1200771803/aol?redir=http://travel.aol.com/discount-travel?ncid=emlcntustrav00000001)

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Nov  3 20:01:03 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 3 Nov 2008 22:01:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Carb. O Rings
In-Reply-To: <000b01c93e14$2e9f0010$8bdd0030$@com>
References: <CA236F8D355645C398AD7A724EC4CAC8@stevekirsisPC>
	<004a01c93de9$1e20a520$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
	<62C25BF567F74D3E96EE7EB2F283D5FD@stevekirsisPC>
	<000b01c93e14$2e9f0010$8bdd0030$@com>
Message-ID: <002001c93e29$93e59e10$bbb0da30$@com>

My bad.  I have listed a non-existing URL.  Let's try this again, shall we?

http://www.bowtie6.com/CarbRepair/index.htm

That should do the trick.

Joe

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Tue Nov  4 06:27:33 2008
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 07:27:33 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Carb O Rings
Message-ID: <70A73CF62B6B4A42AE264B4A3C536134@stevekirsisPC>

Thanks to Oliver and Joe for their help with my damper leak. Quite easy when
you have the directions. Steve Kirsis '70 damson, '75 pimento.

From sbeaulieu at caci.com  Tue Nov  4 15:12:44 2008
From: sbeaulieu at caci.com (Stephen Beaulieu)
Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2008 17:12:44 -0500
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <OF6FE251E7.99DC2835-ON852574F7.007A0409-852574F7.007A0409@caci.com>

I will be out of the office starting  11/04/2008 and will not return until 11/10/2008.

I will respond to your message when I return.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Nov  5 18:27:06 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 5 Nov 2008 19:27:06 -0600
Subject: [6pack] update on fuel/fuel pump problem
References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>
Message-ID: <000201c93fae$ca9dac00$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

hi, all.

i believe i am close to a solution.  yesterday i drove the car, and it 
sputtered to a stop.  i undid the fuel line before the pump, and let the gas 
run out for a bit, put it back together, and it ran.  i was convinced there 
was something in the line somewhere that was stopping up at the filter. 
thought maybe i had it.

today i ran again for about 20 minutes, just back street sort of driving. 
and true to form, it sputtered to a stop.  undid the line again right at the 
filter (actually before it), but nothing ran out, just a few drips.  shook 
and rocked the car a couple of times.  nothing.  popped the gas cap and 
heard the sound of air being sucked suddenly in.  the gas ran freely onto 
the ground.

suddenly it hit me that i had heard that sound many times recently while 
filling up.  and it clicked with the lister's advice to check the vent line.

i do believe i have a problem with the vent line, so everything's coming out 
again asap.  when i redid the gas lines, i ignored the vent lines.  after 
all, that was just air and couldn't affect anything . . .

hope this helps someone else some day. 

From TRsick at aol.com  Thu Nov  6 09:00:30 2008
From: TRsick at aol.com (TRsick at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 11:00:30 EST
Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?
Message-ID: <d04.4504d495.36446e9e@aol.com>

Hi LisTeRs:
    I have a 76 TR6. I need to get keys made for the  door locks. I got the 
lock cylinder removed from the door & planned to bring  it to a local locksmith 
to have a key built (I never had any keys for the  door to cut from).
    Not sure a local locksmith will have the right  equipment & blanks for 
the lock? I thought I would ask the list if maybe  they knew of a better way to 
go? Was there only maybe a handful of different  locks made & I could just 
purchase a few different keys to try?
    Any info will be greatly appreciated.
    Bob
_www.capecodbritishcarclub.org_ (http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org) 
_www.capecodpowdercoating.com_ (http://www.capecodpowdercoating.com)  
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other 
Holiday needs. Search Now. 
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-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Nov  6 09:18:19 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 11:18:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?
In-Reply-To: <d04.4504d495.36446e9e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20081106161819.8GRE2.6014.root@hrndva-web10-z01>

Bob;

Any competent locksmith should be able to cut you good quality keys if you bring them the cylinders. If you want original looking keys to be cut, blanks are available from the Big Three. Order according to your model year.

Good luck,

Dave
'74-Six

---- TRsick at aol.com wrote: 
> Hi LisTeRs:
>     I have a 76 TR6. I need to get keys made for the  door locks. I got the 
> lock cylinder removed from the door & planned to bring  it to a local locksmith 
> to have a key built (I never had any keys for the  door to cut from).
>     Not sure a local locksmith will have the right  equipment & blanks for 
> the lock? I thought I would ask the list if maybe  they knew of a better way to 
> go? Was there only maybe a handful of different  locks made & I could just 
> purchase a few different keys to try?
>     Any info will be greatly appreciated.
>     Bob
> _www.capecodbritishcarclub.org_ (http://www.capecodbritishcarclub.org) 
> _www.capecodpowdercoating.com_ (http://www.capecodpowdercoating.com)  
> **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other 
> Holiday needs. Search Now. 
> (http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from
> -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Nov  6 09:23:54 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 08:23:54 -0800
Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?
In-Reply-To: <d04.4504d495.36446e9e@aol.com>
References: <d04.4504d495.36446e9e@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B55F215@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Bob:

        It is more expensive to have a locksmith make a key from scratch. The
better way to go is to locate the lock code stamped on the lock. They both
will have the same code. It is something like a 3 or 4 digit number stamped
into the body of the lock.
        The locksmith will look it up in a book under "British Leyland" or
perhaps "Triumph", which will give the combination. He can then enter that
into his key cutting machine and cut the key.
        Not only will this save time and money, it will be more accurate in
that you are far less likely to have the key stick, refuse to turn, require
wiggling to unlock the door, etc.
        So make sure that the key code is clear on at least one of the locks.
The same holds true for the trunk and glove box, by the way. Unfortunately the
ignition key code is on a small paper sticker attached to the ignition lock,
and this is usually missing, torn or corrupted making a cheap ignition key
much more problematic.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TRsick at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 8:01 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?

Hi LisTeRs:
    I have a 76 TR6. I need to get keys made for the  door locks. I got the
lock cylinder removed from the door & planned to bring  it to a local
locksmith
to have a key built (I never had any keys for the  door to cut from).
    Not sure a local locksmith will have the right  equipment & blanks for
the lock? I thought I would ask the list if maybe  they knew of a better way
to
go? Was there only maybe a handful of different  locks made & I could just
purchase a few different keys to try?
    Any info will be greatly appreciated.
    Bob

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Thu Nov  6 09:31:23 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2008 11:31:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] =?iso-8859-1?q?76_TR6_door_locks=3F?=
Message-ID: <20081106163123.7345.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>

Triumph keys (and most British cars at that time) had keys from one of a letter/numbered series (for example FS 612).  If someone on the list can let you know the correct series code (and owners from new out there with original keys?), then a good locksmith can try the keys from that series ... not that I used the local locksith for my TR, he did the same for my truck topper, and was able to duplicate the correct key from the master.  He also seemed to have keys for almost everything under the world .... if your local locksmith can't help, I'd be more than willing to ask Stan the Locksmith (or should that be Joe the Locksmith these days ..) -- NFI apart from being a very satisfied customer.

**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: forzion at maine.rr.com
>  Subject: Re: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?
>  Sent: Nov 06 '08 11:18
>  
>  Bob;
>  
>  Any competent locksmith should be able to cut you good quality keys if you bring them the cylinders. If you want original looking keys to be cut, blanks are available from the Big Three. Order according to your model year.
>  
>  Good luck,
>  
>  Dave
>  '74-Six
>  
>  ---- TRsick at aol.com wrote:
>  > Hi LisTeRs:
>  >     I have a 76 TR6. I need to get keys made for the  door locks. I got the
>  > lock cylinder removed from the door & planned to bring  it to a local locksmith
>  > to have a key built (I never had any keys for the  door to cut from).
>  >     Not sure a local locksmith will have the right  equipment & blanks for
>  > the lock? I thought I would ask the list if maybe  they knew of a better way to
>  > go? Was there only maybe a handful of different  locks made & I could just
>  > purchase a few different keys to try?
>  >     Any info will be greatly appreciated.
>  >     Bob

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Nov  6 09:51:40 2008
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 11:51:40 EST
Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?
Message-ID: <c2a.3c9de403.36447a9c@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/6/2008 11:31:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
triumph at 2simpleusa.com writes:

Triumph keys (and most British cars at that time) had keys from one of  a 
letter/numbered series (for example FS 612).  If someone on the  list can let 
you know the correct series code (and owners from new out there  with 
original keys?), 
 
 
Bob,
I have original 1975 keys.
 
Door--------------------------FT 103
Boot and glovebox----- FS 881
Ignition switch----------- WB
 
Hope this helps.
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC


**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other 
Holiday needs. Search Now. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from
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From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu Nov  6 13:18:10 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2008 12:18:10 -0800
Subject: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?
References: <c2a.3c9de403.36447a9c@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006701c9404c$ce231e70$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Bob
> I have original 1970 keys.
>
> Door--------------------------FT 116
> Boot and glovebox----- FS 876
> Ignition switch----------- WA
Bob



----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Vsnively at aol.com>
To: <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>; <forzion at maine.rr.com>;
<6pack at autox.team.net>; <TRsick at aol.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 8:51 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] 76 TR6 door locks?


> In a message dated 11/6/2008 11:31:45 AM Eastern Standard Time,
> triumph at 2simpleusa.com writes:
>
> Triumph keys (and most British cars at that time) had keys from one of  a
> letter/numbered series (for example FS 612).  If someone on the  list can
let
> you know the correct series code (and owners from new out there  with
> original keys?),
>
>
> Bob,
> I have original 1975 keys.
>
> Door--------------------------FT 103
> Boot and glovebox----- FS 881
> Ignition switch----------- WB
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Regards,
> Vic Snively
> '75 TR6  w/AC
>
>
> **************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all
other
> Holiday needs. Search Now.
>
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=htt
p://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from
> -aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11070
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From abrahamdg at earthlink.net  Thu Nov  6 14:08:17 2008
From: abrahamdg at earthlink.net (Doug Abraham)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 16:08:17 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
Message-ID: <18581838.1226005697969.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Speaking of keys. Are there any original 1969 TR6 owners out there that could provide what the correct original key numbers would be?

Many thanks.

Doug
'69 TR6

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Thu Nov  6 14:45:10 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 13:45:10 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <18581838.1226005697969.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD688@MAIN.RSC.local>

Another issue with keys is whether its worth locking the interior in the
first place.  I had an occasion where the stereo was stolen from an
unlocked 6, I fixed the locks and replaced the stereo and less than two
weeks later I was putting in a claim for another stereo and a new top.
I replaced the top but not the stereo which left me with the sweet sound
of the exhaust to keep me company.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Thu Nov  6 14:49:35 2008
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (aldwyn at sylvancircle.org)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 16:49:35 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD688@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD688@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <43043.192.193.216.216.1226008175.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org>

I am with you, Bob.  My locks don't even work, and I have no plans on
fixing that...  I'd rather lose change out of my car (or even an
inexpensive stereo), then replace the top.

But I have the stock Leyland radio (am/fm mono!) in the car, so I dont
think anyone will want that.... slightly less worry about someone breaking
into it for the radio!

- Aldwyn




> Another issue with keys is whether its worth locking the interior in the
> first place.  I had an occasion where the stereo was stolen from an
> unlocked 6, I fixed the locks and replaced the stereo and less than two
> weeks later I was putting in a claim for another stereo and a new top.
> I replaced the top but not the stereo which left me with the sweet sound
> of the exhaust to keep me company.
>
> Bob Clark
> '69 TR6

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu Nov  6 17:55:08 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2008 16:55:08 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD688@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<43043.192.193.216.216.1226008175.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org>
Message-ID: <00ed01c94073$7b701710$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

AM/FM  TR6 radio on eBay, they are asking $249. buy it now, item
260308151915.
Not, inexpensive.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aldwyn at sylvancircle.org>
To: "Robert N. Clark" <rclark at robertsonclark.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys


> I am with you, Bob.  My locks don't even work, and I have no plans on
> fixing that...  I'd rather lose change out of my car (or even an
> inexpensive stereo), then replace the top.
>
> But I have the stock Leyland radio (am/fm mono!) in the car, so I dont
> think anyone will want that.... slightly less worry about someone breaking
> into it for the radio!
>
> - Aldwyn
>
>
>
>
> > Another issue with keys is whether its worth locking the interior in the
> > first place.  I had an occasion where the stereo was stolen from an
> > unlocked 6, I fixed the locks and replaced the stereo and less than two
> > weeks later I was putting in a claim for another stereo and a new top.
> > I replaced the top but not the stereo which left me with the sweet sound
> > of the exhaust to keep me company.
> >
> > Bob Clark
> > '69 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11070
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





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From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Thu Nov  6 15:16:29 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 14:16:29 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <43043.192.193.216.216.1226008175.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD68C@MAIN.RSC.local>

Perhaps the biggest loss were cassette tapes (tells you what decade)
with irreplaceable music including a live Jimmy Buffett concert taped
off the radio.  That was when "You had to be There" was the only live
version available.  By the way, I only taped it for my own personal use
and did not make copies for sale or gift to others.

Now with ipods, the risk of this loss is non-existent.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6




I am with you, Bob.  My locks don't even work, and I have no plans on
fixing that...  I'd rather lose change out of my car (or even an
inexpensive stereo), then replace the top.

But I have the stock Leyland radio (am/fm mono!) in the car, so I dont
think anyone will want that.... slightly less worry about someone
breaking into it for the radio!

- Aldwyn

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Thu Nov  6 15:17:53 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 14:17:53 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <00ed01c94073$7b701710$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD68D@MAIN.RSC.local>

I know this guy who has one and doesn't lock his car . . .

Bob Clark
'69 TR6


AM/FM  TR6 radio on eBay, they are asking $249. buy it now, item
260308151915. Not, inexpensive. Regards, Bob
-

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu Nov  6 15:07:23 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 22:07:23 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
Message-ID: <1806177987-1226009282-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-864982138-@bxe107.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Yeah but who would want one bad enough to steal it other than a TR6 concours exhibitor?

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Bob
Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
To: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org
To: Robert N. Clark
Cc: TR-6 list
Sent: Nov 6, 2008 6:55 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys

AM/FM  TR6 radio on eBay, they are asking $249. buy it now, item
260308151915.
Not, inexpensive.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <aldwyn at sylvancircle.org>
To: "Robert N. Clark" <rclark at robertsonclark.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 1:49 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys


> I am with you, Bob.  My locks don't even work, and I have no plans on
> fixing that...  I'd rather lose change out of my car (or even an
> inexpensive stereo), then replace the top.
>
> But I have the stock Leyland radio (am/fm mono!) in the car, so I dont
> think anyone will want that.... slightly less worry about someone breaking
> into it for the radio!
>
> - Aldwyn
>
>
>
>
> > Another issue with keys is whether its worth locking the interior in the
> > first place.  I had an occasion where the stereo was stolen from an
> > unlocked 6, I fixed the locks and replaced the stereo and less than two
> > weeks later I was putting in a claim for another stereo and a new top.
> > I replaced the top but not the stereo which left me with the sweet sound
> > of the exhaust to keep me company.
> >
> > Bob Clark
> > '69 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11070
> http://www.pctools.com/en/spyware-doctor-antivirus/





E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
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6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu Nov  6 18:21:36 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2008 17:21:36 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
References: <1806177987-1226009282-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-864982138-@bxe107.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <012001c94077$2dab59a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Maybe the guy selling it on eBay. :~)
I have a AM  Leyland/Triumph radio in my '70.
I never park the car anywhere that it needs to be locked...
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <lfm614 at aol.com>
To: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>; <aldwyn at sylvancircle.org>; "Robert N.
Clark" <rclark at robertsonclark.com>
Cc: "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 2:07 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys


> Yeah but who would want one bad enough to steal it other than a TR6
concours exhibitor?
>
> Lou
> ------Original Message------
> From: Bob
> Sender: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net
> To: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org
> To: Robert N. Clark
> Cc: TR-6 list
> Sent: Nov 6, 2008 6:55 PM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys
>
> AM/FM  TR6 radio on eBay, they are asking $249. buy it now, item
> 260308151915.
> Not, inexpensive.
> Regards,
> Bob






E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
Database version: 5.11070
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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Nov  6 15:32:48 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 14:32:48 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <012001c94077$2dab59a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <1806177987-1226009282-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-864982138-@bxe107.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<012001c94077$2dab59a0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B55F5E8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Bob:

        I frequently park the TR6 in high crime areas, but always leave it
unlocked.

        My hope is that someone will break in and leave something valuable in
it.

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 5:22 PM
To: lfm614 at aol.com; aldwyn at sylvancircle.org; Robert N. Clark
Cc: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys

<snip>

I never park the car anywhere that it needs to be locked...

<snip>

Bob

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Nov  6 17:04:35 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 19:04:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD688@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <18581838.1226005697969.JavaMail.root@elwamui-rubis.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD688@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <89D863147259458385A40A7EBC42A5E2@BOBSNEWPC>

I never lock the doors figuring that if there was something of worth that
someone wanted, they'd just slit the top to get at it. My radio mounts
through the original holes so it's a real pain to get out and there's
nothing worth stealing in the glove box. I do lock stuff in the trunk
however. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert N. Clark
Sent: Thursday, November 06, 2008 4:45 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys

Another issue with keys is whether its worth locking the interior in the
first place.  I had an occasion where the stereo was stolen from an unlocked
6, I fixed the locks and replaced the stereo and less than two weeks later I
was putting in a claim for another stereo and a new top.
I replaced the top but not the stereo which left me with the sweet sound of
the exhaust to keep me company.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Thu Nov  6 18:27:17 2008
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:27:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD68D@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <00ed01c94073$7b701710$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD68D@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20081106202641.04357a28@216.7.163.243>

Ooooh!  Come take it!    Maybe I can replace it with one that works better!  :D


At 05:17 PM 11/6/2008, Robert N. Clark wrote:
>I know this guy who has one and doesn't lock his car . . .
>
>Bob Clark
>'69 TR6
>
>
>AM/FM  TR6 radio on eBay, they are asking $249. buy it now, item
>260308151915. Not, inexpensive. Regards, Bob
>-
>_

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu Nov  6 18:42:35 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 06 Nov 2008 20:42:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <43043.192.193.216.216.1226008175.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD688@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<43043.192.193.216.216.1226008175.squirrel@www.sylvancircle.org>
Message-ID: <8CB0E913E9713CB-D88-2350@WEBMAIL-MY01.sysops.aol.com>

 Little do the thieves know that they could get more for that old Leyland radio on ebay than they could for a modern radio.....and I have no idea if my door locks even work.? I have never tried to lock them.


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org
To: Robert N. Clark <rclark at robertsonclark.com>
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 4:49 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Speaking of keys










I am with you, Bob.  My locks don't even work, and I have no plans on
fixing that...  I'd rather lose change out of my car (or even an
inexpensive stereo), then replace the top.

But I have the stock Leyland radio (am/fm mono!) in the car, so I dont
think anyone will want that.... slightly less worry about someone breaking
into it for the radio!

- Aldwyn




> Another issue with keys is whether its worth locking the interior in the
> first place.  I had an occasion where the stereo was stolen from an
> unlocked 6, I fixed the locks and replaced the stereo and less than two
> weeks later I was putting in a claim for another stereo and a new top.
> I replaced the top but not the stereo which left me with the sweet sound
> of the exhaust to keep me company.
>
> Bob Clark
> '69 TR6

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Nov  6 19:18:53 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 6 Nov 2008 21:18:53 EST
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
Message-ID: <cb9.3bc37e78.3644ff8d@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/6/2008 4:49:56 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
aldwyn at sylvancircle.org writes:

But I  have the stock Leyland radio (am/fm mono!) in the car, so I dont
think  anyone will want that.... slightly less worry about someone breaking
into  it for the radio!

- Aldwyn


Hmmm. . .so. . .where do you park your car?

 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************AOL Search: Your one stop for directions, recipes and all other 
Holiday needs. Search Now. 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212792382x1200798498/aol?redir=http://searchblog.aol.com/2008/11/04/happy-holidays-from
-aol-search/?ncid=emlcntussear00000001)

From JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com  Fri Nov  7 09:12:43 2008
From: JOHN.R.DOMBEY at saic.com (Dombey, John R.)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 08:12:43 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Speaking of keys
In-Reply-To: <mailman.72.1226021319.3542.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.72.1226021319.3542.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <B27788FF2B36BA4CAE1F896B2FEA4F9F01424EC1@0461-its-exmb03.us.saic.com>

Doug,

I didn't see anyone answer your question directly - the thread took off
on a tangent pretty quickly.  I'm not the original owner of my car
(couldn't convince dad to buy it for me when I was eight...), but I
think I've got the original keys.  Here's how they are marked:

  ignition/cubby/trunk:  UN/18    UNION
  door:  F68/YT

In both cases, the markings are in a circle, with the first group of
digits above the second.  The word UNION on the ignition key is in a
rectangle

Hope that helps,

John
'69 TR6

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  7 09:16:38 2008
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 08:16:38 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration
Message-ID: <196942.67508.qm@web52504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi all. I hope you guys can provide some insight. 

My 72 tr6 has been shaking pretty bad. It seams to be be coming from the rear of the car and is most noticeable when doing 50mph or more especially when I let my foot off the accelerator. The car also seams very jumpy around town when I hit bumps. Incidentally it started after I had the rear wheels off to bleed the brakes. I thought maybe I hadn't tightened the wheels properly so I took them off and retightened them. I have checked tire pressure and the tires are pretty new so I don't really think this is the problem and that the timing of the two problems was just a coincidence. When I had the wheels off I took a look at the rear shocks and springs. They are old but nothing looked broken or disconnected as far as I could tell. I wasn't able to check out the u-joints or rear end.

I am leaning towards having the rear suspension rebuilt as I have all the parts on hand. 

I can't completely rule out the front end as there is some vibration in the steering column but it feels to me that this is being transmitted to the steering wheel from the whole car shaking rather than the front end being the problem. I have driven cars with alignment issues and this feels different to me.

Any insight would be much appreciated.

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov  7 10:52:40 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 11:52:40 -0600
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration
References: <196942.67508.qm@web52504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001e01c94101$c7303d90$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

had very similar symptoms a few  years ago.  replacing the driveshaft solved 
the problem.  i believe that some bad (very bad) u joints probably 
contributed to the driveshaft being out of true.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ian Breyer" <ianbreyer at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 10:16 AM
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration


> Hi all. I hope you guys can provide some insight.
>
> My 72 tr6 has been shaking pretty bad. It seams to be be coming from the 
> rear of the car and is most noticeable when doing 50mph or more especially 
> when I let my foot off the accelerator. The car also seams very jumpy 
> around town when I hit bumps. Incidentally it started after I had the rear 
> wheels off to bleed the brakes. I thought maybe I hadn't tightened the 
> wheels properly so I took them off and retightened them. I have checked 
> tire pressure and the tires are pretty new so I don't really think this is 
> the problem and that the timing of the two problems was just a 
> coincidence. When I had the wheels off I took a look at the rear shocks 
> and springs. They are old but nothing looked broken or disconnected as far 
> as I could tell. I wasn't able to check out the u-joints or rear end.
>
> I am leaning towards having the rear suspension rebuilt as I have all the 
> parts on hand.
>
> I can't completely rule out the front end as there is some vibration in 
> the steering column but it feels to me that this is being transmitted to 
> the steering wheel from the whole car shaking rather than the front end 
> being the problem. I have driven cars with alignment issues and this feels 
> different to me.
>
> Any insight would be much appreciated.
>
> Ian
>
> Ian Breyer
> 72 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net 

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Fri Nov  7 11:01:20 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 10:01:20 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
Message-ID: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake
pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6.  It's a wished for combination of
increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind the KN
minilites.  

I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to
what extreme to take it.  A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice right
now.  Next level up would be a matching red body color.  After that is an
unlikely contrasting color like yellow.

Caliper painters out there - which
way did you go?  Did you do the rear drums too?  Which system and application
process? 

Thanks,
Joe Merone
CF18928  

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov  7 11:29:14 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 12:29:14 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Painting brake calipers?
References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901c94106$c1382060$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

there is caliper paint available at any flaps.

my son went with red because his camaro was red and because brembo's are 
red.

paint will hold in a little more heat, although i doubt that is significant.

i think black would look good.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Merone" <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
To: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Triumph List" 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:01 PM
Subject: [TR] Painting brake calipers?


> I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake
> pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6.  It's a wished for combination of
> increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind 
> the KN
> minilites.
>
> I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to
> what extreme to take it.  A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice 
> right
> now.  Next level up would be a matching red body color.  After that is an
> unlikely contrasting color like yellow.
>
> Caliper painters out there - which
> way did you go?  Did you do the rear drums too?  Which system and 
> application
> process?
>
> Thanks,
> Joe Merone
> CF18928

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  7 11:49:13 2008
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 10:49:13 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration
Message-ID: <9563.79498.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I should have also mentioned that there is about a 1/2" - 3/4" difference between the gap between tire and wheel-well from passenger side to driver side. (Drivers side has less gap.)

I just tried Vance's suggestion on the highway and the vibration was still present in neutral. I am going to take the car to a garage and have the tires balanced tomorrow. Maybe its a combination of a few things. I do know that the u-joints on the differential need to be replaced.

Let me know if anyone has any other thoughts.

Thanks again.

Ian



Ian Breyer
72 TR6

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  7 11:51:30 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 10:51:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <276924.52333.qm@web33503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I stripped my calipers and brake drums. The calipers were sprayed with gold
header paint, which works well with the car's emerald green color. The rear
drums were sprayed with gloss black header paint. They've been on the car for
nearly three years. No problems with pealing or discoloration.
 
Personally I shy away from red calipers. Every "dub" car or lowered SUV around
here has red calipers. It kinda ruined red for me, but that's just me. You
might consider silver, black, yellow, light gray, gold, or orange. Yes, orange
sounds corny but it looked really nice on a local red Corvette. The rear drums
... well since they're largely concealed by the wheel hub black seems
appropriate.
 
YMMV.
 
Jim

--- On Fri, 11/7/08, Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com> wrote:

From: Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
To: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "Triumph List"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, November 7, 2008, 12:01 PM

I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake
pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6.  It's a wished for combination of
increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind the
KN
minilites.

I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to
what extreme to take it.  A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice
right
now.  Next level up would be a matching red body color.  After that is an
unlikely contrasting color like yellow.

Caliper painters out there - which
way did you go?  Did you do the rear drums too?  Which system and application
process?

Thanks,
Joe Merone
CF18928
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Nov  7 13:18:09 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 15:18:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration
References: <9563.79498.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004c01c94115$f3bc4390$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Ian....Have the tires road force balancing (using a  hunter GSP9700 Road 
Force Measurement. System)
Craig
If you shop doesn't have it.....find some one that does

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ian Breyer" <ianbreyer at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 1:49 PM
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration


>I should have also mentioned that there is about a 1/2" - 3/4" difference 
>between the gap between tire and wheel-well from passenger side to driver 
>side. (Drivers side has less gap.)
>
> I just tried Vance's suggestion on the highway and the vibration was still 
> present in neutral. I am going to take the car to a garage and have the 
> tires balanced tomorrow. Maybe its a combination of a few things. I do 
> know that the u-joints on the differential need to be replaced.
>
> Let me know if anyone has any other thoughts.
>
> Thanks again.
>
> Ian
>
>
>
> Ian Breyer
> 72 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  7 13:29:49 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 12:29:49 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Rear end vibration
Message-ID: <11969.94903.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

>From what Ian has said, especially "I do know that the u-joints on the
differential need to be replaced."  I suggest you replace the U joints before
you try any of the other fixes since the symptoms you describe most likely
relate to the rotation of the driveshaft or the half shafts.
 
Mike Lunsford 69 and 70 TR 6
 
PS:  I need a new power booster for my 69.  I heard somewhere that there is a
booster available for one of our domestic cars that will work.  Any ideas
which one or the best/cheapest place to get my booster fixed?

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Nov  7 14:03:40 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 16:03:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1DB6CF457BA24C4CAFC61C172308233A@BOBSNEWPC>

Hey Joe,
I went with the POR-15 caliper kit
(http://www.por15.com/prodinfo.asp?grp=CK&dept=11) Being a complete kit, it
included the cleaner, prep solution, POR-15 paint and the caliper paint. At
first I wasn't happy with the yellow paint but once the calipers were on the
car and behind the allow wheels, you never notice the "imperfections" that
you do when they're in your hand and 6" from your eyes. After a season of
driving on them they still look great. I know other guys that have used
DupliColor with very good results too.

If you decide you want to go with Yellow, let me know before you buy
anything.

Bob


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Merone
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 1:01 PM
To: 6 Pack list; Triumph List
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?

I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake
pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6.  It's a wished for combination of
increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind the
KN minilites.  

I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to what extreme to
take it.  A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice right now.  Next
level up would be a matching red body color.  After that is an unlikely
contrasting color like yellow.

Caliper painters out there - which
way did you go?  Did you do the rear drums too?  Which system and
application process? 

Thanks,
Joe Merone
CF18928


You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Nov  7 14:11:01 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 13:11:01 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Rear end vibration
In-Reply-To: <11969.94903.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <11969.94903.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B55FB9E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Michael:

	A booster rebuilder is:

	Brake Materials & Parts, INC
	800 Sherman Blvd
	Fort Wayne, IN 46808
	260-426-3331

	These are the guys that took over PARTCO who used to rebuild the TR6
boosters.

	Also, found this reference for a replacement booster:

	The late Jim Albeck installed a US-made booster and master cylinder on his
Jensen Healy GT a while back (The Jensen Healy uses the same Girling brake
booster and master cylinder as the TR6).  The source was Engineered
Components, who sells a "Generation 2 Street Rod Power Booster Assembly."
IIRC this is their part number EC-490 and the price was US$275.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Rear end vibration

<snip>

Mike Lunsford 69 and 70 TR 6

PS:  I need a new power booster for my 69.  I heard somewhere that there is a
booster available for one of our domestic cars that will work.  Any ideas
which one or the best/cheapest place to get my booster fixed?

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Nov  7 14:13:45 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 13:13:45 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Rear end vibration
In-Reply-To: <11969.94903.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <11969.94903.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B55FBA0@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Michael:

        You might also check out this place:

        http://www.triumphsonly.com/pages/main/index.html

        They are offering rebuilt brake boosters for $189. I have never tried
them, so can't offer a recommendation one way or the other.

        Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 12:30 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Rear end vibration


Mike Lunsford 69 and 70 TR 6

PS:  I need a new power booster for my 69.  I heard somewhere that there is a
booster available for one of our domestic cars that will work.  Any ideas
which one or the best/cheapest place to get my booster fixed?

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Nov  7 19:13:17 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2008 21:13:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>

 Hi Joe,

I just used some Dupli-color hi-temp paint and painted mine red.? The paint has stood up quite nicely though there is always brake dust to dull the look.? You can see the before and after pictures at the triumphowners web site listed below.? The prep work took most of the time.? The paint work was pretty simple.? Sorry, I lost the close-up pics of the calipers on the car with my KN wheels when my hard drive bit the dust.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
To: 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>; Triumph List <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 1:01 pm
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?










I'm about to install my new drilled and slotted rotors, Green Stuff brake
pads, and rebuilt calipers on my TR6.  It's a wished for combination of
increased stopping power plus a desire for a cool looking set-up behind the KN
minilites.  

I'm also considering painting the calipers but don't know to
what extreme to take it.  A simple coat of gloss black is the top choice right
now.  Next level up would be a matching red body color.  After that is an
unlikely contrasting color like yellow.

Caliper painters out there - which
way did you go?  Did you do the rear drums too?  Which system and application
process? 

Thanks,
Joe Merone
CF18928  

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Nov  7 19:26:23 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2008 21:26:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration
In-Reply-To: <196942.67508.qm@web52504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <196942.67508.qm@web52504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CB0F60870D7E16-A34-278E@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>

 Ian,

I havent seen anyone encourage you to check out the differential mounting pins, especially the right front.? The symptoms you describe could be caused by a cracked mount if it has gotten really bad, especially letting your foot off the accelerator.? A good inspection of the entire rear end is a good idea at this point.? Let us know what you find.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Breyer <ianbreyer at yahoo.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 11:16 am
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration










Hi all. I hope you guys can provide some insight. 

My 72 tr6 has been shaking pretty bad. It seams to be be coming from the rear of 
the car and is most noticeable when doing 50mph or more especially when I let my 
foot off the accelerator. The car also seams very jumpy around town when I hit 
bumps. Incidentally it started after I had the rear wheels off to bleed the 
brakes. I thought maybe I hadn't tightened the wheels properly so I took them 
off and retightened them. I have checked tire pressure and the tires are pretty 
new so I don't really think this is the problem and that the timing of the two 
problems was just a coincidence. When I had the wheels off I took a look at the 
rear shocks and springs. They are old but nothing looked broken or disconnected 
as far as I could tell. I wasn't able to check out the u-joints or rear end.

I am leaning towards having the rear suspension rebuilt as I have all the parts 
on hand. 

I can't completely rule out the front end as there is some vibration in the 
steering column but it feels to me that this is being transmitted to the 
steering wheel from the whole car shaking rather than the front end being the 
problem. I have driven cars with alignment issues and this feels different to 
me.

Any insight would be much appreciated.

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Nov  7 19:36:30 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 02:36:30 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>
References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

What are people doing to prep the calipers for painting ?. Is it possible to
media blast them without having to take them apart to get all of the blast
media out ?

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:13 PM
To: jmerone at rocketmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?

 Hi Joe,

I just used some Dupli-color hi-temp paint and painted mine red.? The paint
has stood up quite nicely though there is always brake dust to dull the look.?
You can see the before and after pictures at the triumphowners web site listed
below.? The prep work took most of the time.? The paint work was pretty
simple.? Sorry, I lost the close-up pics of the calipers on the car with my KN
wheels when my hard drive bit the dust.

Aaron





Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Nov  7 20:27:13 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 22:27:13 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <E6D98241E8884593BF985276C3F8BD56@BOBSNEWPC>

Stan,
The POR-15 kit includes a cleaner and a prep solution. They did a great job
of getting the calipers ready for paint. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:37 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?

What are people doing to prep the calipers for painting ?. Is it possible to
media blast them without having to take them apart to get all of the blast
media out ?

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:13 PM
To: jmerone at rocketmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?

 Hi Joe,

I just used some Dupli-color hi-temp paint and painted mine red.? The paint
has stood up quite nicely though there is always brake dust to dull the
look.?
You can see the before and after pictures at the triumphowners web site
listed below.? The prep work took most of the time.? The paint work was
pretty simple.? Sorry, I lost the close-up pics of the calipers on the car
with my KN wheels when my hard drive bit the dust.

Aaron





Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Fri Nov  7 20:33:43 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 19:33:43 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <349463.13315.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Stan:
I used paint stripper. After removing the gunk with a small brass brush and
paper towels, I cleaned it with a rag and toothbrush (my wife's HA!) moistened
with laquer thinner. This was followed with mineral spirits to remove the
thinner residue. After the parts dried I masked or plugged holes as required.
I did not disassemble the calipers. They came out very clean and ready for
paint.
 
I tried a caliper paint kit from Eastwood but it globbed badly and left a
horrible finish. So I stripped them TWICE. The second time I used high temp
header spray paint, and they looked great.
 
Jim

--- On Fri, 11/7/08, Foster, Stan <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:

From: Foster, Stan <stan.foster at hp.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net"
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Date: Friday, November 7, 2008, 8:36 PM

What are people doing to prep the calipers for painting ?. Is it possible to
media blast them without having to take them apart to get all of the blast
media out ?

Stan

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Nov  7 20:41:59 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 07 Nov 2008 22:41:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com><8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8CB0F6B16D0AEE6-A34-29DE@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>

 Stan,

Where do I start?? I did take mine apart, with no problems at all.? I used a bench grinder with a wire brush attached, as well as multiple coats of naval jelly, x-acto knives, small screwdrivers and many other implements I cant remember.? But I am certain there was no rust left when I finished.? I just used tape, and small pieces of cloth to cover and fill holes before painting.? I cant remember exactly what I used for final paint prep.? But it seems to have worked well, whatever it was.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 9:36 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?










What are people doing to prep the calipers for painting ?. Is it possible to
media blast them without having to take them apart to get all of the blast
media out ?

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com
Sent: Friday, November 07, 2008 9:13 PM
To: jmerone at rocketmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?

 Hi Joe,

I just used some Dupli-color hi-temp paint and painted mine red.? The paint
has stood up quite nicely though there is always brake dust to dull the look.?
You can see the before and after pictures at the triumphowners web site listed
below.? The prep work took most of the time.? The paint work was pretty
simple.? Sorry, I lost the close-up pics of the calipers on the car with my KN
wheels when my hard drive bit the dust.

Aaron





Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat Nov  8 04:51:48 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 03:51:48 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration
References: <196942.67508.qm@web52504.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<8CB0F60870D7E16-A34-278E@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <260208.36237.qm@web36106.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Ian

Like Aaron stated check all of the rear end assembly. In one of your
posted you stated a difference in side to side measurement. This could be
caused by the bushings in the trailing arms going. A check would be jack the
car up and with a pry bar against the frame see if you can move the trailing
arms.

Dale




________________________________
From: "acekraut11 at aol.com"
<acekraut11 at aol.com>
To: ianbreyer at yahoo.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent:
Friday, November 7, 2008 9:26:23 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] rear end vibration
Ian,

I havent seen anyone encourage you to check out the differential
mounting pins, especially the right front.? The symptoms you describe could be
caused by a cracked mount if it has gotten really bad, especially letting your
foot off the accelerator.? A good inspection of the entire rear end is a good
idea at this point.? Let us know what you find.

Aaron





Aaron Cropley
71
TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini
Cooper S
Topsham, Maine






-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Breyer
<ianbreyer at yahoo.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 7 Nov 2008 11:16 am
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration










Hi all. I hope you guys can
provide some insight. 

My 72 tr6 has been shaking pretty bad. It seams to be
be coming from the rear of 
the car and is most noticeable when doing 50mph or
more especially when I let my 
foot off the accelerator. The car also seams
very jumpy around town when I hit 
bumps. Incidentally it started after I had
the rear wheels off to bleed the 
brakes. I thought maybe I hadn't tightened
the wheels properly so I took them 
off and retightened them. I have checked
tire pressure and the tires are pretty 
new so I don't really think this is
the problem and that the timing of the two 
problems was just a coincidence.
When I had the wheels off I took a look at the 
rear shocks and springs. They
are old but nothing looked broken or disconnected 
as far as I could tell. I
wasn't able to check out the u-joints or rear end.

I am leaning towards
having the rear suspension rebuilt as I have all the parts 
on hand. 

I can't
completely rule out the front end as there is some vibration in the 
steering
column but it feels to me that this is being transmitted to the 
steering
wheel from the whole car shaking rather than the front end being the 
problem.
I have driven cars with alignment issues and this feels different to 
me.

Any
insight would be much appreciated.

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 TR6
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

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are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Nov  8 06:08:47 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 08:08:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters
In-Reply-To: <20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <FA4B6D1DD7614A96A53FE2AA0E317B3E@Toms>
	<20081108055914.ZRZP28878.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <7FF05A3325A9428D8891C5D526D28C10@BOBSNEWPC>

Mad Electrical http://www.madelectrical.com/ that Randall links to is a
"must have" bookmark for all automotive things electrical e.g. on their site
is a tab called Electrical Tech. Behind it you'll find a great tutorial on
the various Delco alternators that we use as an upgrade as well as things
like: Brighter Headlights, 1-wire vs 3-wire alternators etc. Dan Masters
turned me on to this site many years ago. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Randall
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 12:59 AM
To: 'TR List'
Subject: Re: [TR] Ammeters and Voltmeters

> In view of all the recent discussions on these meters, I was wondering 
> if it's difficult, or requires a lot of electrical expertise to 
> convert from a voltmeter (as in a TR6) to an ammeter?

It's not trivial, but not terribly difficult either.  Basically you have to
divide the electrical system into the battery and starter on one side (plus
perhaps the horns and the sense wire to the alternator), and everything else
on the other side; then connect the ammeter between them.  

Assuming this is a 73 or later TR6 (earlier cars had ammeters), you can just
remove 3 of the 4 brown wires that go to the tie point in the battery cable;
join them together somehow (perhaps with one of these:
http://www.madelectrical.com/catalog/cn-1.shtml ) then run a pair of heavy
wires (10 AWG will do, but I'd use 8) from the old tie point and the new tie
point to the ammeter.

Randall
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


Triumphs at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sat Nov  8 17:30:41 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 14:30:41 -1000
Subject: [6pack] Differential
Message-ID: <4F83789BE8C34F21AAAA1144BBDABBB5@PamHome>

Aloha All,

Well I removed the tranny on Thursday and have been working my way back to the
rear end this weekend.  I am having a heck of a time removing the diff. I've
got all the bolts removed but the large washers in the rear won't come off.
They seem to be almost welded to the bolt.  Any ideas on what I need to do to
lower this thing?

Thanks,

Mark

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Nov  8 18:31:30 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 9 Nov 2008 01:31:30 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Differential
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA0C497@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Mark, if all of the nuts are removed the only thing holding the diff up is
corrosion and inertia. Try supporting the diff with a floor jack to take the
weight off the donuts and tap the washers from below to break the bond and
then see if you can lease them off. The diff is heavy, dont let it drop to the
floor or on you.

Stan


Sent from my Windows Mobile. phone.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 7:31 PM
To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Differential


Aloha All,

Well I removed the tranny on Thursday and have been working my way back to
the
rear end this weekend.  I am having a heck of a time removing the diff. I've
got all the bolts removed but the large washers in the rear won't come off.
They seem to be almost welded to the bolt.  Any ideas on what I need to do to
lower this thing?

Thanks,

Mark
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sat Nov  8 19:01:22 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sat, 8 Nov 2008 16:01:22 -1000
Subject: [6pack] Differential
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA0C497@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <D4263B0BBF13493796B5B84419A597B3@PamHome>

That did it.  Thanks Stan.

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: "Mark" <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com>; "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 3:31 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Differential


Mark, if all of the nuts are removed the only thing holding the diff up is 
corrosion and inertia. Try supporting the diff with a floor jack to take the 
weight off the donuts and tap the washers from below to break the bond and 
then see if you can lease them off. The diff is heavy, dont let it drop to 
the floor or on you.

Stan


Sent from my Windows Mobile. phone.

-----Original Message-----
From: Mark <mbullard at hawaii.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 08, 2008 7:31 PM
To: 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Differential


Aloha All,

Well I removed the tranny on Thursday and have been working my way back to 
the
rear end this weekend.  I am having a heck of a time removing the diff. I've
got all the bolts removed but the large washers in the rear won't come off.
They seem to be almost welded to the bolt.  Any ideas on what I need to do 
to
lower this thing?

Thanks,

Mark

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Nov 10 05:27:15 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 07:27:15 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Painting brake calipers?
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <289166.74445.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<8CB0F5EB29A7B76-A34-2719@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799CA84FCE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811100722440.15304@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I've just wire-brushed my calipers prior to painting. I've done a couple 
of sets. One set I seperated 'cause I wound up using a grease gun to get 
the pistons out... that was a messy-messy job getting the grease out of 
the passages! But the most recent set was a piece of cake (the pistons 
came out easily with a screwdriver and some persuasion) and I just used my 
bench grinder with 6" wire brushes... the whole job took maybe two hours 
(to strip, wire brush and paint), add another hour for painting.

I used Duplicolor silver brake caliper paint.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 10 12:05:18 2008
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Mon, 10 Nov 2008 11:05:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] rear end vibration update
Message-ID: <587772.62308.qm@web52507.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks for the suggestions. I had the rear wheels balanced over the weekend and that took care of most of the problem. It looks like one of my rims is slightly bent so I suspect that is still causing some vibration. I'll have to replace that soon.

I still need to do a rebuild on the suspension but at least I know where the shaking was coming from. Thanks again.

Ian

Ian Breyer
72 tr6 jasmine yellow

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed Nov 12 12:39:18 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 11:39:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
Message-ID: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

All:

I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors.  They
look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake
toys I just bought. But - they're directional. 

Which way do the slots (//)
point?  My guess is that for the passenger side it's:
  
 // > front of
vehicle.  

Correct?

Joe Merone
CF18928

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Nov 12 14:10:19 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 13:10:19 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
In-Reply-To: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B696B8B@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Joe:

	Happy to help confuse you, particularly since I know nothing about the topic
=:-o

	I would have said just the opposite. That you want the slots angled so that
any water landing on the rotor is pushed outwards by the rotation. If I
understand your ASCII art, you have it going the opposite direction.

	Passenger side

            \
          / O /     Front ->
            \


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Joe Merone
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11:39 AM
To: 6 Pack list
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors

All:

I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors.  They
look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake
toys I just bought. But - they're directional.

Which way do the slots (//)
point?  My guess is that for the passenger side it's:

 // > front of
vehicle.

Correct?

Joe Merone
CF18928

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Nov 12 16:36:25 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 23:36:25 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV119E58ECEC7C25B855B88EF4140@phx.gbl>

Joe---I just went to look at mine, and they are opposite to your description. I think the idea here is to face the slots and drilling/dimples so that the gasses, dust and debris gets thrown to the outside of the rotor.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Merone
Sent: Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11:39 AM
To: 6 Pack list
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors

All:

I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors.  They
look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake
toys I just bought. But - they're directional. 

Which way do the slots (//)
point?  My guess is that for the passenger side it's:
  
 // > front of
vehicle.  

Correct?

Joe Merone
CF18928
6pack at autox.team.net
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From ms6453 at optonline.net  Wed Nov 12 21:20:21 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Wed, 12 Nov 2008 23:20:21 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
In-Reply-To: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <491BAB05.6060604@optonline.net>

I had the same problem with a set of Brembo drilled & slotted rotors. 
Here are the instructions from their site.

"The slots are angled to use the rotors' direction of rotation to 
enhance their performance, which makes the rotors side-specific with 
left and right side rotors. Brembo Sport slotted brake rotors are sold 
in axle pairs and the easiest way to verify correct usage is to install 
the rotors on the side of the vehicle that results in the end of the 
slot nearest the outer edge of the rotor always contacting the brake 
pads first."

*This leads me to believe they want the the swirl to face forward. This 
would cause the pad dust & gas to the center hub , not toward the outer 
edge.  I did not feel this was correct & installed the rotors the 
opposite way so that the dust/gas would swirl from the center up to the 
outer edge of the rotor.  Looking at the side of the car the rotor slot 
spins counter clockwise from center out.

I will say that these do stop very well but are noisy and wear the pads 
a little faster.

                                                            
                                                                         
   j*oe Merone wrote:
> All:
>
> I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors.  They
> look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake
> toys I just bought. But - they're directional. 
>
> Which way do the slots (//)
> point?  My guess is that for the passenger side it's:
>   
>  // > front of
> vehicle.  
>
> Correct?
>
> Joe Merone
> CF18928
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as ms6453 at optonline.net
>
>
>   

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75 TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Thu Nov 13 07:27:10 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 06:27:10 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
References: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<491BAB05.6060604@optonline.net>
Message-ID: <288917.97340.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

That's my dilemma.  Although it would SEEM like the slot should sweep
backwards, I had also heard that the slot with the end towards the outside
edge should rotate forward and hit the pad first.     

Anyone else know the
proper way to install them?

Joe Merone
CF18928
________________________________
From: Mitch <ms6453 at optonline.net>
To: Joe
Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com>
Cc: 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent:
Wednesday, November 12, 2008 11:20:21 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Directional
brake rotors

I had the same problem with a set of Brembo drilled & slotted
rotors. Here are the instructions from their site.

"The slots are angled to
use the rotors" direction of rotation to enhance their performance, which
makes the rotors side-specific with left and right side rotors. Brembo Sport
slotted brake rotors are sold in axle pairs and the easiest way to verify
correct usage is to install the rotors on the side of the vehicle that results
in the end of the slot nearest the outer edge of the rotor always contacting
the brake pads first."

This leads me to believe they want the the swirl to
face forward. This would cause the pad dust & gas to the center hub , not
toward the outer edge.  I did not feel this was correct & installed the rotors
the opposite way so that the dust/gas would swirl from the center up to the
outer edge of the rotor.  Looking at the side of the car the rotor slot spins
counter clockwise from center out.

I will say that these do stop very well
but are noisy and wear the pads a little faster. 

                           
                                 
                                          
                                joe Merone wrote: 
All:

I've just received my
new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors.  They
look cool enough, and will be
even better once installed with the other brake
toys I just bought. But -
they're directional. 

Which way do the slots (//)
point?  My guess is that
for the passenger side it's:
  
 // > front of
vehicle.  

Correct?

Joe
Merone
CF18928
_______________________________________________

Support
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You
are subscribed as ms6453 at optonline.net


  

-- 
Mitch Seff
Oceanside, N.Y.
75
TR6 SC
http://www.triumphowners.com/384

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu Nov 13 10:58:31 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 09:58:31 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 1970 fender badges?
Message-ID: <005101c945b9$70df52c0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hello List,
Subject car is 1970 painted (red) by a PO, currently has no fender badges.
Questions:
Were there fender badges on a 1970 TR6?
If so what color should they be blue or green, metal or plastic?
Were they on both sides of the vehicle?
Thank you in advance.
Regards,
Bob




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From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Thu Nov 13 08:47:37 2008
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 08:47:37 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
In-Reply-To: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0811130747r3096b48ft74738e9c830c9e31@mail.gmail.com>

I just checked my TR6 and my SAAB Viggen.
On the TR6, my mechanic installed the EBS rotors with the tips on the
outer portion of the rim of the rotors 'trailing', or pointing towards
the back.
On the SAAB, the dealer installed the new rotors, on all 4 corners,
with the outer tips 'leading' or pointing forward.

NO consensus on those 2 cars!!!

Henri
75 TR6, EBS rotors pointing rearward,
2000 SAAB Vigen, rotors pointing forward,
71 MGB GT, plain rotors, no slots

On Wed, Nov 12, 2008 at 12:39 PM, Joe Merone <jmerone at rocketmail.com> wrote:
> All:
>
> I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors.  They
> look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake
> toys I just bought. But - they're directional.
>
> Which way do the slots (//)
> point?  My guess is that for the passenger side it's:
>
>  // > front of
> vehicle.
>
> Correct?
>
> Joe Merone
> CF18928
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 13 09:11:35 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 16:11:35 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Directional brake rotors
In-Reply-To: <83dfea6b0811130747r3096b48ft74738e9c830c9e31@mail.gmail.com>
References: <257387.74599.qm@web30905.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<83dfea6b0811130747r3096b48ft74738e9c830c9e31@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W200AA049B7AE5E43C4E9FE8E170@phx.gbl>

I don't have these, but just did a quick google and read something
interesting.

"the slots aren't really the thing you should be looking at.it's the direction
of the cooling vanes between the rotor surfaces that matter.they need to pull
air through the rotor from inside to outside."

This was on a bullentin board. A later post mentioned that some rotors do not
have directional vanes in the rotor, and if this was the case it really
doesn't matter which way you put them on.

Hope this may help.

Sloane :)69-Six

>> > I've just received my new drilled and slotted TRW brake rotors. They> >
look cool enough, and will be even better once installed with the other brake>
> toys I just bought. But - they're directional.> >> > Which way do the slots
(//)> > point? My guess is that for the passenger side it's:> >> > // > front
of> > vehicle.> >> > Correct?> >> > Joe Merone> > CF18928> >
_______________________________________________> >> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> >> > 6pack at autox.team.net> >
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> >> >
http://www.team.net/archive> >> > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as im_sloane at hotmail.com
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From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Thu Nov 13 09:23:14 2008
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 11:23:14 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 1970 fender badges?
In-Reply-To: <005101c945b9$70df52c0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <005101c945b9$70df52c0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <6390f3a9ba.491c0e22@wright.edu>

Bob,
 If you're referring to the badges on the front fenders, they didn't have any
- at least mine doesn't  and I'm it's original owner.  Has sort of block TR 6
on the read fenders, believe they were available in white or black.

Bill
'70   6

----- Original Message -----
From: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Date: Thursday, November 13, 2008 10:00 am
Subject: [6pack] TR6 1970 fender badges?
To: 6pack at autox.team.net

> Hello List,
> Subject car is 1970 painted (red) by a PO, currently has no
> fender badges.
> Questions:
> Were there fender badges on a 1970 TR6?
> If so what color should they be blue or green, metal or plastic?
> Were they on both sides of the vehicle?
> Thank you in advance.
> Regards,
> Bob

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 13 09:48:30 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 10:48:30 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR6 1970 fender badges?
References: <005101c945b9$70df52c0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <001501c945af$ac4ed290$6515a8c0@Ranteer.local>

Piggott says "towards the end of 1971" so your car should not have them (if 
you believe Piggott).

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 11:58 AM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 1970 fender badges?


> Hello List,
> Subject car is 1970 painted (red) by a PO, currently has no fender badges.
> Questions:
> Were there fender badges on a 1970 TR6?
> If so what color should they be blue or green, metal or plastic?
> Were they on both sides of the vehicle?
> Thank you in advance.
> Regards,
> Bob

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Thu Nov 13 11:49:57 2008
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 12:49:57 -0600
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <A0265A47C6C242A98BBDF48D9CFBA795@stevekirsisPC>

Just out of curiosity does anyone in TR land know what model George W. Bush
had as his first car?  He only says Triumph. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson, '75
Pimento.

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu Nov 13 12:46:20 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 19:46:20 +0000
Subject: [6pack] W
In-Reply-To: <A0265A47C6C242A98BBDF48D9CFBA795@stevekirsisPC>
References: <A0265A47C6C242A98BBDF48D9CFBA795@stevekirsisPC>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W39F3EC99403B0DD49B6D168E170@phx.gbl>

Boy, That's tough to Goooogle. It's amazing how many times George W Bush and
Triumph appear on the same web page.  Inquiring minds want to know. I did hit
the one page that says his first car was a Triumph.

Sloane :)
69-Six)> > Just out of curiosity does anyone in TR land know what model George
W. Bush> had as his first car? He only says Triumph. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson,
'75> Pimento.>
_________________________________________________________________
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From dramsey11 at alltel.net  Thu Nov 13 17:36:48 2008
From: dramsey11 at alltel.net (Darrell Ramsey)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 19:36:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 1970 fender badges?
In-Reply-To: <005101c945b9$70df52c0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <20081114003649.HLVJ28131.ispmxaamta08-gx.windstream.net@VALUEDFD36E9B8>

Bob, My car was assembled in July 1970 and still wears original paint.  I
have no fender badges on either side.  

Darrell 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, November 13, 2008 12:59 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 1970 fender badges?

Hello List,
Subject car is 1970 painted (red) by a PO, currently has no fender badges.
Questions:
Were there fender badges on a 1970 TR6?
If so what color should they be blue or green, metal or plastic?
Were they on both sides of the vehicle?
Thank you in advance.
Regards,
Bob

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Nov 13 19:05:16 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 13 Nov 2008 21:05:16 EST
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <d1f.395f6078.364e36dc@aol.com>

Just out of curiosity does anyone in TR land know what model George W.  Bush
had as his first car?  He only says Triumph. Steve Kirsis '70  Damson, '75
Pimento.


I know we are not supposed to mention politics on this site, but you have  
just made a huge dent in my enthusiasm for my first love.  (don't tell my  wife 
I said that)
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Get movies delivered to your mailbox. One month free from 
blockbuster.com 
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212639737x1200784900/aol?redir=https://www.blockbuster.com/signup/y/reg/p.26978/r.email_footer)

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov 14 16:01:25 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (mailkendall at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 15:01:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
Message-ID: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Anyone know the story on this beast?

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/belinberg014.jpg

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov 14 16:06:55 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (mailkendall at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 15:06:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
Message-ID: <177875.35464.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Backing up in the photobucket gallery... more pics.
http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/

 


----- Original Message
----
From: "mailkendall at sbcglobal.net" <mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>
To: 6pack
List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 3:01:25 PM
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6

Anyone know the story on this beast?
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/belinberg014.jpg

Kendall
San
Clemente, CA
_______________________________________________

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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Nov 14 16:15:31 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 15:15:31 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B697996@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Kendall:

        What a monstrosity. A clear illustration of why nature prompts animals
to eat their young. What is the automotive equivalent of euthanasia? It may be
warranted in this case....

        Still, the workmanship looks to be first rate, and you must admire the
creativity.

        But I would not even consider a car like that. It is clearly unnatural
and the prince of darkness himself will surely punish the creator for
perverting one of auto-doms most perfect creations.

        This, in my opinion, is how man fell from grace in the garden of Eden
=:-o

        Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of mailkendall at sbcglobal.net
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 3:01 PM
To: 6pack List
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6

Anyone know the story on this beast?

http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/belinberg014.jpg

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri Nov 14 16:37:59 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 15:37:59 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD6D9@MAIN.RSC.local>

Before, getting the second set of pictures, I was thinking this looks
like one of those air brush tee shirts from the 70s where your favorite
car is depicted with a skinny front end and giant slicks  in the rear.
Then my imagination was confirmed.

My favorite part is that the overdrive badge was left in place.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6


Anyone know the story on this beast?

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri Nov 14 16:48:04 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 15:48:04 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <177875.35464.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD6DA@MAIN.RSC.local>

For all you Californians who hate motorcyclists that share lanes, watch
the video in Kendall's email.  Can you imagine the shock when a biker
thinks they can cut in front of some ole British sports car!

Bob Clark
a slower '69 TR6

From grego at sandesco.com  Fri Nov 14 17:22:11 2008
From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 16:22:11 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD6DA@MAIN.RSC.local>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD6DA@MAIN.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <20081114162211.2aj35ng1etwsog8c@webmail.dsl-only.net>

Quoting "Robert N. Clark" <rclark at robertsonclark.com>:

> For all you Californians who hate motorcyclists that share lanes, watch
> the video in Kendall's email.  Can you imagine the shock when a biker
> thinks they can cut in front of some ole British sports car!

very impressive indeed. However this is bracket racing. You will notice
that the TR greenlighted way ahead of the bike. In other words the bike
was handycapped. At least it looked that way to me.

From alanatkinson at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 14 17:34:24 2008
From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 19:34:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <20081114162211.2aj35ng1etwsog8c@webmail.dsl-only.net>
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD6DA@MAIN.RSC.local>
	<20081114162211.2aj35ng1etwsog8c@webmail.dsl-only.net>
Message-ID: <COL101-W5987312A0AEAD016B79087C6110@phx.gbl>

It's Ed Olsen's car. You can see it on britishv8.org - here if the link goes
through: http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/EdOlson.htm

_________________________________________________________________
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From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Nov 14 17:40:08 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 17:40:08 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <491E1A68.5030300@tscusa.org>

Car is owned by Ed Olson  -- (looks like Alan beat me to it ...)

 The whole writeup is in BritishV8.org where several of us have lots of 
fun with our Triumphs.

http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/EdOlson.htm


-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Nov 14 21:25:28 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 04:25:28 +0000
Subject: [6pack] California and emissions, state inspection for pre-76 TR6's
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799D2CB48A@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I was under the impression that CA TR6's of any year could not be modified in
any way that would alter the original emissions configuration but I was just
looking at an ad for a 1975 car in LA with 3 x dcoe Webers (advertized on
eBay) so perhaps I am incorrect.

Could someone from CA please summarize what the inspection rules are and if
such a mod is acceptable ?. Here in MA there is no emissions test or other
visual examination of emissions equipment as far as I know for any year TR.

Stan

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Fri Nov 14 21:46:44 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (mailkendall at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Fri, 14 Nov 2008 20:46:44 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  California and emissions,
 state inspection for  pre-76 TR6's
Message-ID: <884925.62399.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Stan,

1975 and older are exempt from smog checks. CA doesn't have saftey
inspections either so you can get away with pretty much whatever 1975 and
older.
It's still probably "techinically illegal" to modify the emissions
system but no one is checking.

http://www.dmv.ca.gov/vr/smogfaq.htm

Kendall

From ghamilton99 at verizon.net  Sat Nov 15 07:00:08 2008
From: ghamilton99 at verizon.net (Gary Hamilton)
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 08:00:08 -0600 (CST)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 For Sale - Boston
Message-ID: <1609352029.2374731226757608833.JavaMail.javamailuser@localhost>

1968 Triumph TR250. This was a limited production car produced between
the TR4A & TR6, only 8300 produced. Older amateur restoration by
previous owner.
Car has been a daily summer driver for me for last 2 years, I have owned
for 4. Car looks good from 20 feet. Previous body repairs do have some
bondo. Corners of hood, doors & trunk lid have some rust coming through.
Have good clean extra hood & trunk. Chassis has a few soft spots; not
unusual for A 40-year-old British car! I have done some resto to the car
as I drove it. Spin on oil filter, new three point retractable
seatbelts, drive shaft u joints, rear end seals, new driverbs floor,
scraped and painted both sides & rust proofed. Front end was rebuilt
with new shocks and bushings. Car runs good with 75 psi oil cold and
constant 40-50 psi hot. Drive shaft, rear, seats and exhaust currently
out of car. Almost brand new Ansa dual exhaust to go back in. Extra
radiator, boiled, pressure tested and painted ready to be installed with
all new hoses. Brand new top still in box. Set of four sixty spoke wire
wheels and hubs. Existing Pirelli 205/70/15 tires in great shape.
Included is additional extra complete drive train b engine to rear
axles, including transmission, brake calipers, discs, included. Many
boxes of other parts are also included. Extra engine was supposedly
rebuilt to be installed in a TVR, but never happened. I have no proof of
this other than the engine has fresh paint & turns over by hand. Also
included is an original factory service manual and various other TR
literature, including CD of many Triumph restoration documents from the
web.

I have owned Triumphs since 1975, including another TR250 & TR3.

Hate to see her go, but I do not see time in the foreseeable future to
give her the attention she needs. Please note this car starts & runs,
but currently is not driveable because the drive train is out. A weekend
by a handy person would have her back on the road.

I am asking $5,750 as is; once car is back on road Ibm going to ask at
least $6,500, but at that point I may decide to keep her.

If you are not a Triumph or British car enthusiast with mechanical
knowledge this is probably not the car for you, but if you have some
solid mechanical skills, this is a great candidate for a daily driver or
restoration.

Please no tire kickers, serious inquires only, I will answer all
questions honestly.

Gary Hamilton

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Nov 15 14:18:54 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 15 Nov 2008 21:18:54 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV3D3E150EA3DC1C87E09E9F4110@phx.gbl>

I was wondering how this turbo survived, with the open air intake housing. We know that these aluminum housings and compressor blades do a lousy job when having to ingest track or road debris. Then I saw the last photo that included a large K&N air filter attached to the turbo. My confidence is restored!

When done well, I like that some have used the base Triumph as a drag car. Even if only certain parts of the car still look like a Triumph.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 3:06 PM
To: 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6

Backing up in the photobucket gallery... more pics.
http://s191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/

 


----- Original Message
----
From: "mailkendall at sbcglobal.net" <mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>
To: 6pack
List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 14, 2008 3:01:25 PM
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6

Anyone know the story on this beast?
http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/belinberg014.jpg

Kendall
San
Clemente, CA
_______________________________________________

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From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon Nov 17 06:09:44 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 13:09:44 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Engine block petcock
Message-ID: <BLU118-W4833487C428F57D02470278E130@phx.gbl>

Pack,
I flushed my radiator this weekend and now I have a leak from the engine block
petcock just under the carbs, above the starter. Has anybody replaced this?
Tips? suggestions? Do all models have this?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/119462413/direct/01/

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Nov 17 06:16:03 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 08:16:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Engine block petcock
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W4833487C428F57D02470278E130@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU118-W4833487C428F57D02470278E130@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <E1D26B500B484EA39606271368500672@BOBSNEWPC>

No petcock on my '76. If it's like a radiator petcock, you might just want
to try and open and close it a few times to flush any debris that got caught
up in it. Or you can leave it alone and see if it "heals" itself.  


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of im sloane
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 8:10 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Engine block petcock

Pack,
I flushed my radiator this weekend and now I have a leak from the engine
block petcock just under the carbs, above the starter. Has anybody replaced
this?
Tips? suggestions? Do all models have this?

thanks,
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows Live
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/119462413/direct/01/
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Nov 17 07:24:34 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 09:24:34 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811170923420.9671@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 mailkendall at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Anyone know the story on this beast?
>
> http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/belinberg014.jpg

Obviously it's someone who feels inadequate in some way.

:-b

> Kendall
> San Clemente, CA

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon Nov 17 11:06:31 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 10:06:31 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Engine block petcock
References: <BLU118-W4833487C428F57D02470278E130@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001401c948df$38af01b0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>

I have the petcock on a 1970.
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 5:09 AM
Subject: [6pack] Engine block petcock


> Pack,
> I flushed my radiator this weekend and now I have a leak from the engine
block
> petcock just under the carbs, above the starter. Has anybody replaced
this?
> Tips? suggestions? Do all models have this?
>
> thanks,
> Sloane :)
> 69-Six
> _________________________________________________________________
> Stay up to date on your PC, the Web, and your mobile phone with Windows
Live
> http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/119462413/direct/01/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
>
>
>
>
> E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
> Database version: 5.11130
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E-mail message checked by Spyware Doctor (6.0.0.386)
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From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Nov 17 08:14:06 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 15:14:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Engine block petcock
In-Reply-To: <001401c948df$38af01b0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <BLU118-W4833487C428F57D02470278E130@phx.gbl>
	<001401c948df$38af01b0$c0ea7b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799D2CB628@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

The later models have a brass plug. Really, if you have coolant coming out
that hole it is a good thing. It is easier to stop it with a new valve or plug
or gasket than it is to undo a blocked drain caused by the silting up of the
rear of the block and the resultant hot spots.

My only gripe is the location which results in the starter motor getting
drenched when you drain the block unless you have the petcock and can attach a
length of hose to it.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 1:07 PM
To: im sloane; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine block petcock

I have the petcock on a 1970.
Bob

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Nov 17 08:25:53 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 07:25:53 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Engine block petcock
In-Reply-To: <E1D26B500B484EA39606271368500672@BOBSNEWPC>
References: <BLU118-W4833487C428F57D02470278E130@phx.gbl>
	<E1D26B500B484EA39606271368500672@BOBSNEWPC>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B6F6359@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Sloane:

	You can replace it with the later style brass pipe plug, or perhaps a
hardware store would have a suitable replacement. It is just a standard brass
petcock, and the threads are fully compatible with NPT style threads.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Nov 17 08:31:37 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 07:31:37 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811170923420.9671@isis.mit.edu>
References: <500773.84875.qm@web82603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811170923420.9671@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B6F6360@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Robert:

	I disagree. It is someone who feels inadequate in a very *SPECIFIC* way.
=:-o

	This is the same sort of person who is responding to the "Size DOES matter"
spam I keep getting in my email. Humph! (OK, I WANT to respond to it too, but
am too embarrassed to do so.)

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Lang
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 6:25 AM
To: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net
Cc: 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] Monster Turbo TR6

On Fri, 14 Nov 2008 mailkendall at sbcglobal.net wrote:

> Anyone know the story on this beast?
>
> http://i191.photobucket.com/albums/z76/v869tr6/belinberg014.jpg

Obviously it's someone who feels inadequate in some way.

:-b

From jmaneke at centurytel.net  Mon Nov 17 12:25:07 2008
From: jmaneke at centurytel.net (jmaneke at centurytel.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 13:25:07 -0600
Subject: [6pack] engine block petcock
Message-ID: <20081117132507.3aaklx210go404ww@webmail2.centurytel.net>

My TR250 originally had a brass plug that I replaced with a petcock from
Victoria British. The part number is 14-198  WATER DRAIN TAP. It is on page 65
of there latest catalog.

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Mon Nov 17 15:01:41 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 14:01:41 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] ebay listing
Message-ID: <274294.62727.qm@web33504.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I saw this 75 car listed on ebay. I'm not a shill for this auction and I have
NFI. Looks like a pretty good deal on a restored car. Could be a good way for
a beginner to get started. FWIW
 
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1975-Triumph-TR-6-Restored-w-Overdrive-Hard-To
p_W0QQitemZ250326349943QQihZ015QQcategoryZ80757QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZV
iewItem
 
Jim

From LOddTR at aol.com  Mon Nov 17 16:00:05 2008
From: LOddTR at aol.com (LOddTR at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 18:00:05 EST
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
Message-ID: <c0b.48b608b0.36535175@aol.com>

I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6. Please  
contact me off-list if you have one available.
 
Leo Oddi
**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & 
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Mon Nov 17 16:20:53 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 18:20:53 -0500
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
References: <c0b.48b608b0.36535175@aol.com>
Message-ID: <AD81196770CD4C90A3F3EE532A0BBF55@artvaca6b69b44>

It doesn't matter what # it is. Line Boring is in order now.
What happened? Lost it? Costly loss or whatever?
Regards,
Wayne Lee
www.motorcarriage.com

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <LOddTR at aol.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 6:00 PM
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed


>I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6. Please
> contact me off-list if you have one available.
>
> Leo Oddi
> **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news &
> more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt
> p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
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> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
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>
> You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com 

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Mon Nov 17 16:41:58 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 16:41:58 -0700
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
In-Reply-To: <AD81196770CD4C90A3F3EE532A0BBF55@artvaca6b69b44>
Message-ID: <86FA310E81B444EBB8F0695D4EB21F1D@nmsu.edu>

Sounds like a long-neglected thrust washer to me.  Ask me how I know...  But
I fixed mine.  Pinned (riveted) a new thrust washer into the "divot" made by
the crank in the bearing cap, machined it down, and used another new thrust
washer where it should be.  20,000 miles and so far, so good....

Kevin


L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA

New Mexico State University
505-646-2485

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Wayne Lee
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 4:21 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed

It doesn't matter what # it is. Line Boring is in order now.
What happened? Lost it? Costly loss or whatever?
Regards,
Wayne Lee
www.motorcarriage.com

----- Original Message -----
From: <LOddTR at aol.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 6:00 PM
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed


>I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6. Please
> contact me off-list if you have one available.
>
> Leo Oddi
> **************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news &
>
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redi
r=htt
> p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com
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From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Tue Nov 18 00:31:05 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (mailkendall at sbcglobal.net)
Date: Mon, 17 Nov 2008 23:31:05 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
Message-ID: <226827.77926.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Leo, sorry no help on sourcing a new cap. when my cap got messed up my machinist welded new tabs on the end and machined the welds down to keep the thrust washers in place. 


You might try calling a place like Triumph's only in Stockton,CA or some other collector of used parts.

Kendall


----- Original Message ----
From: "LOddTR at aol.com" <LOddTR at aol.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 3:00:05 PM
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed

I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6. Please  
contact me off-list if you have one available.

Leo Oddi

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Tue Nov 18 07:41:34 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 09:41:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
In-Reply-To: <c0b.48b608b0.36535175@aol.com>
References: <c0b.48b608b0.36535175@aol.com>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B01007F392709@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

As was noted, finding a "good condition" #4 cap ain't gonna be easy.  And even
if you do, you cannot simply install it.  You will have to have the whole
block line bored so the new cap will fit with the correct clearances.  How old
is the engine?  Maybe you can get a whole engine from a junk yard, or from
someone on the list who has a spare.

Best bet is to have a good machine shop repair your existing #4 cap.
Leyland's six cylinder engine design in the thrust washer area was a real
step-down from the design in the old four cylinder engines. Pretty pathetic.

Cheers.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
LOddTR at aol.com [LOddTR at aol.com]
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 6:00 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed

I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6. Please
contact me off-list if you have one available.

Leo Oddi
**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news &
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir
=htt
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
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http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Nov 18 08:23:35 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 07:23:35 -0800
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
In-Reply-To: <c0b.48b608b0.36535175@aol.com>
References: <c0b.48b608b0.36535175@aol.com>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B6F6A09@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Leo:

	The bearing caps are machined at the factory in place on the block due to the
tight tolerances needed for the main bearings. They cannot be swapped between
blocks, and they must be installed in the proper orientation. In short, if
your bearing cap is toast, you cannot source a used one to replace it without
extensive machining of the cap and block to get it to fit. This is why they
are generally unavailable as a replacement part.
	Your best bet is to have your existing bearing cap welded, and machined to
repair it. However, if you are doing this, there is a good chance that after
all the machining and line boring you will have more into it than a used block
will cost. Consider replacing the block with a used one from any of the
British  wrecking yards as an alternative.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of LOddTR at aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 3:00 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed

I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6. Please
contact me off-list if you have one available.

Leo Oddi

From Timbo00001 at aol.com  Tue Nov 18 08:36:09 2008
From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 10:36:09 EST
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
Message-ID: <bdd.40845a0b.36543ae9@aol.com>

Please remove me from the distribution.
 
 
In a message dated 11/18/2008 10:24:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
vance.navarrette at intel.com writes:

Leo:

The bearing caps are machined at the factory  in place on the block due to the
tight tolerances needed for the main  bearings. They cannot be swapped between
blocks, and they must be installed  in the proper orientation. In short, if
your bearing cap is toast, you  cannot source a used one to replace it without
extensive machining of the  cap and block to get it to fit. This is why they
are generally unavailable  as a replacement part.
Your best bet is to have your existing  bearing cap welded, and machined to
repair it. However, if you are doing  this, there is a good chance that after
all the machining and line boring  you will have more into it than a used 
block
will cost. Consider replacing  the block with a used one from any of the
British  wrecking yards as  an alternative.

Vance


Vance  Navarrette
Cogito Ergo Zoom
I think,  therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From:  6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]  On
Behalf Of LOddTR at aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 3:00  PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap  needed

I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6.  Please
contact me off-list if you have one available.

Leo  Oddi
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  timbo00001 at aol.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Nov 18 08:51:00 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 15:51:00 +0000
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed
In-Reply-To: <bdd.40845a0b.36543ae9@aol.com>
References: <bdd.40845a0b.36543ae9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82912@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I assume you put yourself on this list, now it's time to take yourself off:

http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Timbo00001 at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 10:36 AM
To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; LOddTR at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap needed

Please remove me from the distribution.


In a message dated 11/18/2008 10:24:16 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,
vance.navarrette at intel.com writes:

Leo:

The bearing caps are machined at the factory  in place on the block due to
the
tight tolerances needed for the main  bearings. They cannot be swapped
between
blocks, and they must be installed  in the proper orientation. In short, if
your bearing cap is toast, you  cannot source a used one to replace it
without
extensive machining of the  cap and block to get it to fit. This is why they
are generally unavailable  as a replacement part.
Your best bet is to have your existing  bearing cap welded, and machined to
repair it. However, if you are doing  this, there is a good chance that after
all the machining and line boring  you will have more into it than a used
block
will cost. Consider replacing  the block with a used one from any of the
British  wrecking yards as  an alternative.

Vance


Vance  Navarrette
Cogito Ergo Zoom
I think,  therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From:  6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net]  On
Behalf Of LOddTR at aol.com
Sent: Monday, November 17, 2008 3:00  PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] #4 main bearing cap  needed

I am in need of a good used #4 main bearing cap for a late TR6.  Please
contact me off-list if you have one available.

Leo  Oddi
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  timbo00001 at aol.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Tue Nov 18 12:15:22 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 14:15:22 EST
Subject: [6pack] What size thrust washers do I need?
Message-ID: <be8.40af6b48.36546e4a@aol.com>

I measured my crankshaft end float the other day and found it to  be just 
under .012".  I would like to get the end float closer to  .005" so I dropped the 
pan, took off the rear main bearing cap and removed the  thrust washers. What 
I found was one marked "STD" and measured at  .090" which showed a lot of 
wear and the other marked "+030" that measured  .122" and showed very little 
wear. I believe that STD should be .092" ?
 
 I have read online that the front washer should not change size  because it 
gets very little wear and you don't want to move the crankshaft  out of place. 
I have also been told that both the washers should be the same  size so to 
center the crankshaft which also makes sense. TRF sells sets of  thrust washers 
at STD, +.005", +.015" and +.030" which I believe both washers in  set are the 
same size.
 
 
Now I would like to reduce my end play from just under .012" to just  over 
.005" which means I have to add .006" to my thrust washers. In order to do  that 
I need a total of .218" with both thrust washers measured together. I like  
the idea of using Scott Helms's solid bronze thrust washer. I could have a 
.096"  made and my use my .122"  or if the front should not change I could  use a 
STD .092" and make a .0126" or if the crankshaft should be centered, have  two 
.109" made, all which would equal .218" 
 
Oh, one more thing, TRF's list at $6.95 a set and Scott's are $20 each and  
are probably worth every penny of it. If you still follow me, any comments as 
to  which way to go?

 
TIA
 
Peter Schoppelry
TR6  '69

**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & 
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Nov 18 12:38:22 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 14:38:22 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question
Message-ID: <20081118193822.AV0TU.60653.root@hrndva-web24-z01>

Hello troops!

Everyone ready for winter? Some folks in New York State and in the Midwest are already digging out from a foot of snow. Fortunately, here in "sunny Maine," we're still snow free. Last winter, we ended up with a "good" six feet of snow before the season was over! Eek!

I am starting to install Richard Good's lowering springs in the rear, also installing the adjustable trailing arm brackets at that time. I plan to install new poly pads and 1/2" aluminum spacers,as well. 

Speaking from the top of the 'stack' down, what is the correct way to install the spacer?: Pad, spacer, spring, pad? A different order? Can I assume the spacer is used ABOVE the spring?

Thanks for the help from those who have BTDT,

Cheers,

Dave 

From wensley_tr at comcast.net  Tue Nov 18 13:24:39 2008
From: wensley_tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 15:24:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question
In-Reply-To: <20081118193822.AV0TU.60653.root@hrndva-web24-z01>
Message-ID: <9BDA9ABFA1E34485B1DF57388CA095F6@Desktop>

Dave I'm assuming that that you have lowered the front

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 2:38 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question

Hello troops!

Everyone ready for winter? Some folks in New York State and in the Midwest
are already digging out from a foot of snow. Fortunately, here in "sunny
Maine," we're still snow free. Last winter, we ended up with a "good" six
feet of snow before the season was over! Eek!

I am starting to install Richard Good's lowering springs in the rear, also
installing the adjustable trailing arm brackets at that time. I plan to
install new poly pads and 1/2" aluminum spacers,as well. 

Speaking from the top of the 'stack' down, what is the correct way to
install the spacer?: Pad, spacer, spring, pad? A different order? Can I
assume the spacer is used ABOVE the spring?

Thanks for the help from those who have BTDT,

Cheers,

Dave 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Nov 18 16:00:43 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 18 Nov 2008 18:00:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] What size thrust washers do I need?
In-Reply-To: <be8.40af6b48.36546e4a@aol.com>
References: <be8.40af6b48.36546e4a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <61F7CFD7882E4C569217A3CCD55E7042@BOBSNEWPC>

Peter............I can't help with the size question but I've heard good
things about this new thrust washer design
http://www.customthrustwashers.com/


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 2:15 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] What size thrust washers do I need?

I measured my crankshaft end float the other day and found it to  be just
under .012".  I would like to get the end float closer to  .005" so I
dropped the pan, took off the rear main bearing cap and removed the  thrust
washers. What I found was one marked "STD" and measured at  .090" which
showed a lot of wear and the other marked "+030" that measured  .122" and
showed very little wear. I believe that STD should be .092" ?
 
 I have read online that the front washer should not change size  because it
gets very little wear and you don't want to move the crankshaft  out of
place. 
I have also been told that both the washers should be the same  size so to
center the crankshaft which also makes sense. TRF sells sets of  thrust
washers at STD, +.005", +.015" and +.030" which I believe both washers in
set are the same size.
 
 
Now I would like to reduce my end play from just under .012" to just  over
.005" which means I have to add .006" to my thrust washers. In order to do
that I need a total of .218" with both thrust washers measured together. I
like the idea of using Scott Helms's solid bronze thrust washer. I could
have a .096"  made and my use my .122"  or if the front should not change I
could  use a STD .092" and make a .0126" or if the crankshaft should be
centered, have  two .109" made, all which would equal .218" 
 
Oh, one more thing, TRF's list at $6.95 a set and Scott's are $20 each and
are probably worth every penny of it. If you still follow me, any comments
as to  which way to go?

 
TIA
 
Peter Schoppelry
TR6  '69

**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news &
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redi
r=htt
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
6pack at autox.team.net
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http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From jattr6 at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 19 00:17:06 2008
From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 07:17:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...
Message-ID: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl>

I have a 1976 TR6...with the stock dual strombergs.
during the many tune ups, I don't think I have ever gotten the
air-float tool to ever match up between the two carbs!

i try adjusting the wheel, adjusting the carbs. no luck.
i have gotten the carbs to run great in the past, but will be doing
a tune up next week and hope to tune these babies better.
(they were rebuilt recently by me and never got total sync'ed)

any advice?
anyone else have trouble?

thanks!

james
_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail now works up to 70% faster.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_faster_1
12008

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Nov 19 00:54:48 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 07:54:48 GMT
Subject: [6pack] What size thrust washers do I need?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV46B02E8C2ADC2DB56635BF40D0@phx.gbl>

Peter---Yes, the "std." is .092 thick, and sometimes it isn't stamped as to size, as are to oversized ones. I'd just replace the .090 with a .097 (this would be the +.005) which should get you to your goal of .005 running clearance. You'll probably get a pair of these in a bag, so save the other as a replacement about 50,000 miles from now. Leave the +.030 where it is. This should cause no interference at the connecting rods.
If you feel your engine block or crank is worn to a point where there are special needs, then go with a custom set. To me, it doesn't seem that there is this need.

Dick
 


-----Original Message-----
From: PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:15 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] What size thrust washers do I need?

I measured my crankshaft end float the other day and found it to  be just 
under .012".  I would like to get the end float closer to  .005" so I dropped the 
pan, took off the rear main bearing cap and removed the  thrust washers. What 
I found was one marked "STD" and measured at  .090" which showed a lot of 
wear and the other marked "+030" that measured  .122" and showed very little 
wear. I believe that STD should be .092" ?
 
 I have read online that the front washer should not change size  because it 
gets very little wear and you don't want to move the crankshaft  out of place. 
I have also been told that both the washers should be the same  size so to 
center the crankshaft which also makes sense. TRF sells sets of  thrust washers 
at STD, +.005", +.015" and +.030" which I believe both washers in  set are the 
same size.
 
 
Now I would like to reduce my end play from just under .012" to just  over 
005" which means I have to add .006" to my thrust washers. In order to do  that 
I need a total of .218" with both thrust washers measured together. I like  
the idea of using Scott Helms's solid bronze thrust washer. I could have a 
096"  made and my use my .122"  or if the front should not change I could  use a 
STD .092" and make a .0126" or if the crankshaft should be centered, have  two 
109" made, all which would equal .218" 
 
Oh, one more thing, TRF's list at $6.95 a set and Scott's are $20 each and  
are probably worth every penny of it. If you still follow me, any comments as 
to  which way to go?

 
TIA
 
Peter Schoppelry
TR6  '69

**************Get the Moviefone Toolbar. Showtimes, theaters, movie news & 
more!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212774565x1200812037/aol?redir=htt
p://toolbar.aol.com/moviefone/download.html?ncid=emlcntusdown00000001)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Nov 19 01:30:42 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 08:30:42 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV2009226935E8E0D287012F40D0@phx.gbl>

Dave---The placement of the spacer should be under the spring. I think the reason for this is so the spacer can't fall out, when the suspension goes into droop. This is rarely the case, as most of the springs we use are of sufficient length to keep this from happening. It's easy enough to check, tho. When all parts are stacked back in place, including the shock absorber, let the trailing arm hang free to see if the spring is still under tension. (It should be). Check by seeing if you can pop out the spring, using a large screwdriver. 

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:38 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question

Hello troops!

Everyone ready for winter? Some folks in New York State and in the Midwest are already digging out from a foot of snow. Fortunately, here in "sunny Maine," we're still snow free. Last winter, we ended up with a "good" six feet of snow before the season was over! Eek!

I am starting to install Richard Good's lowering springs in the rear, also installing the adjustable trailing arm brackets at that time. I plan to install new poly pads and 1/2" aluminum spacers,as well. 

Speaking from the top of the 'stack' down, what is the correct way to install the spacer?: Pad, spacer, spring, pad? A different order? Can I assume the spacer is used ABOVE the spring?

Thanks for the help from those who have BTDT,

Cheers,

Dave 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Nov 19 07:17:26 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 9:17:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV2009226935E8E0D287012F40D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <20081119141726.EJF3W.67482.root@hrndva-web28-z01>

Thanks Dick, and thank you to all who responded to my spring spacer question, both on and off list. While there was no consensus as to spacer placement or even the use of spacers (or spring pads) at all, it gave me plenty to think about before I decide how to proceed.

Cheers!

Dave
'74-Six

---- Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net> wrote: 
> Dave---The placement of the spacer should be under the spring. I think the reason for this is so the spacer can't fall out, when the suspension goes into droop. This is rarely the case, as most of the springs we use are of sufficient length to keep this from happening. It's easy enough to check, tho. When all parts are stacked back in place, including the shock absorber, let the trailing arm hang free to see if the spring is still under tension. (It should be). Check by seeing if you can pop out the spring, using a large screwdriver. 
> 
> Dick
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: forzion at maine.rr.com
> Sent: Tuesday, November 18, 2008 11:38 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question
> 
> Hello troops!
> 
> Everyone ready for winter? Some folks in New York State and in the Midwest are already digging out from a foot of snow. Fortunately, here in "sunny Maine," we're still snow free. Last winter, we ended up with a "good" six feet of snow before the season was over! Eek!
> 
> I am starting to install Richard Good's lowering springs in the rear, also installing the adjustable trailing arm brackets at that time. I plan to install new poly pads and 1/2" aluminum spacers,as well. 
> 
> Speaking from the top of the 'stack' down, what is the correct way to install the spacer?: Pad, spacer, spring, pad? A different order? Can I assume the spacer is used ABOVE the spring?
> 
> Thanks for the help from those who have BTDT,
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Dave 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Nov 19 07:56:28 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 09:56:28 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Spring spacer question
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV2009226935E8E0D287012F40D0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV2009226935E8E0D287012F40D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0811190929320.19113@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 19 Nov 2008, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Dave---The placement of the spacer should be under the spring. I think 
> the reason for this is so the spacer can't fall out, when the suspension 
> goes into droop. This is rarely the case, as most of the springs we use 
> are of sufficient length to keep this from happening. It's easy enough 
> to check, tho. When all parts are stacked back in place, including the 
> shock absorber, let the trailing arm hang free to see if the spring is 
> still under tension. (It should be). Check by seeing if you can pop out 
> the spring, using a large screwdriver.

All "good stuff", as usual Sir Richard.

Just as a point of information, some of the really stiff rear springs are 
short. So short that they can fall out at full droop (with the shock arm 
resting on the lower bump stop). Well, they don't fall out, but they do 
get cockeyed in the little pocket on the trailing arm or they get 
cock-eyed in the upper spring perch. There aren't many bad outcomes in all 
this except I have seen the springs knacker the upper spring perch and I 
have found fret mark on the trailing arms where the springs were obviously 
rubbing against the pocket sides.

But in all cases these are extreme lowering springs with big rates.  I 
have some 600 pounders that fall out when I jack the car up, but they 
never fall out while the car weight is on them. I think the free length of 
those springs is well under 8", but if you think about it - a 600 pound 
spring only compresses about an inch (assuming corner weights of 500 - 600 
pounds) under load, so they have to start out pretty short otherwise you 
change the ride height. Possibly a lot.

FWIW, the springs I have in my race car are TriumphTune 4215A (I think).

I sometimes tie-wrap the top of the spring to the upper spring perch to 
help the springs seat on thier own, but I don't always do this, so I have 
to re-seat the springs each time the car goes up on stands and is then 
lowered to the ground... pretty much every time I run the car I have to do 
this. It's a pain, but my excuse is that it's close to exercise which my 
doctor says I don't do enough of.

:-)

> Dick

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From jattr6 at hotmail.com  Wed Nov 19 12:22:55 2008
From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 19:22:55 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...II
In-Reply-To: <4923BFAA.6010605@dfn.com>
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl>
	<4923BFAA.6010605@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <COL101-W80025ABB9FB694668DA94A800D0@phx.gbl>

So I forgot to mention, I did have the linkage loosened so each carb would
move independently. so my method has been to adjust the idle screw and tweak
the jet needle. then i place the unisync over one carb, adjust the wheel so
the float
is in the middle-ish and then place over the other carb. but it either makes
the other
carb stall out or race. the ball of course is way off and does not much the
other carb.

well, i probably just need to fiddle around. just wish there was a formula!
LOL!
and maybe to a degree there is...either the idle screw or needle.

thanks.> Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 00:26:34 -0700> From: mdporter at dfn.com> To:
jattr6 at hotmail.com> Subject: Re: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn
carbs...> > James_ TR6 wrote:> > I have a 1976 TR6...with the stock dual
strombergs.> > during the many tune ups, I don't think I have ever gotten the>
> air-float tool to ever match up between the two carbs!> >> > i try adjusting
the wheel, adjusting the carbs. no luck.> > i have gotten the carbs to run
great in the past, but will be doing> > a tune up next week and hope to tune
these babies better.> > (they were rebuilt recently by me and never got total
sync'ed)> >> > any advice?> > anyone else have trouble?> >> > > > > Never had
trouble with that, either with the tube-in-the-ear method or > with Unisyns.
It takes some time, and if you're in a hurry, that might > be part of the
problem. My method is to get the carbs close to sync, > recheck mixture,
adjust that, then bring the carbs into closer sync. > Might have to do that a
couple of times to get it right, but, it never > fails. If you can't get `em
close, then there's probably some internal > trouble with one of the carbs,
and one has to isolate that problem.> > > Cheers.> > -- > > > Michael Porter>
Roswell, NM> > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within
walking distance....>
_________________________________________________________________
Get more done, have more fun, and stay more connected with Windows Mobile..
http://clk.atdmt.com/MRT/go/119642556/direct/01/

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Nov 19 12:34:06 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 19:34:06 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...
In-Reply-To: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82CA7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

James, my experience with sync devices is not that great as they seem to
introduce an element from Hiesenberg into the process unless you have all of
the planets aligned (rpm, air bleed on the device etc). I have a lot better
luck with a short piece of tube. Stick one end in your ear, hold the other end
against the carb venturi so that the end of it is sticking up into the air
flow and you have it in the same position for each carb. Listen to the sound
of the air rushing past the end of the tube. When it sounds the same for all
carbs you are done.

Once you get them set up with the ear method see what your sync device is
saying. Use the lowest rpm and widest air opening on the sync device as you
can get away with to reduce the tendency of the device to affect the running
engine.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James_ TR6
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:17 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...

I have a 1976 TR6...with the stock dual strombergs.
during the many tune ups, I don't think I have ever gotten the
air-float tool to ever match up between the two carbs!

i try adjusting the wheel, adjusting the carbs. no luck.
i have gotten the carbs to run great in the past, but will be doing
a tune up next week and hope to tune these babies better.
(they were rebuilt recently by me and never got total sync'ed)

any advice?
anyone else have trouble?

thanks!

james

From jsnable at mac.com  Wed Nov 19 12:52:47 2008
From: jsnable at mac.com (Jay Snable)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 11:52:47 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...II
In-Reply-To: <COL101-W80025ABB9FB694668DA94A800D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl>
	<4923BFAA.6010605@dfn.com>
	<COL101-W80025ABB9FB694668DA94A800D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <50194710543307727493058703103824233483-Webmail@me.com>

I never had much luck with the unisyn myself, and ended up getting a synchrometer from Richard Good that works much better (of course it is much more expensive too):

http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?categoryID=7

Jay
 
On Wednesday, November 19, 2008, at 11:22AM, "James_ TR6" <jattr6 at hotmail.com> wrote:
>So I forgot to mention, I did have the linkage loosened so each carb would
>move independently. so my method has been to adjust the idle screw and tweak
>the jet needle. then i place the unisync over one carb, adjust the wheel so
>the float
>is in the middle-ish and then place over the other carb. but it either makes
>the other
>carb stall out or race. the ball of course is way off and does not much the
>other carb.
>
>well, i probably just need to fiddle around. just wish there was a formula!
>LOL!
>and maybe to a degree there is...either the idle screw or needle.

From cgrimes at golden.net  Wed Nov 19 14:00:48 2008
From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 16:00:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82CA7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <36E68CE705314A9DB929CCA160DA512B@norman>

Just an idle wonder,
would it be possible or worthwhile to mount a microphone on each carb and 
use audio editing to see and balance the inputs.
????
colin 71
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:34 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...


> James, my experience with sync devices is not that great as they seem to
> introduce an element from Hiesenberg into the process unless you have all 
> of
> the planets aligned (rpm, air bleed on the device etc). I have a lot 
> better
> luck with a short piece of tube. Stick one end in your ear, hold the other 
> end
> against the carb venturi so that the end of it is sticking up into the air
> flow and you have it in the same position for each carb. Listen to the 
> sound
> of the air rushing past the end of the tube. When it sounds the same for 
> all
> carbs you are done.
>
> Once you get them set up with the ear method see what your sync device is
> saying. Use the lowest rpm and widest air opening on the sync device as 
> you
> can get away with to reduce the tendency of the device to affect the 
> running
> engine.
>
> Stan
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] 
> On
> Behalf Of James_ TR6
> Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:17 AM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...
>
> I have a 1976 TR6...with the stock dual strombergs.
> during the many tune ups, I don't think I have ever gotten the
> air-float tool to ever match up between the two carbs!
>
> i try adjusting the wheel, adjusting the carbs. no luck.
> i have gotten the carbs to run great in the past, but will be doing
> a tune up next week and hope to tune these babies better.
> (they were rebuilt recently by me and never got total sync'ed)
>
> any advice?
> anyone else have trouble?
>
> thanks!
>
> james
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as cgrimes at golden.net


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
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10:04 AM

From ajw at golden.net  Wed Nov 19 17:15:36 2008
From: ajw at golden.net (john weir)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 19:15:36 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82CA7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<36E68CE705314A9DB929CCA160DA512B@norman>
Message-ID: <C416804010604E55BA3BF83B96763E71@weir>

Hi Colin, it's John from WBCC just down the road. I have access to a digital
air velocity gauge. I haven't used it on a carb set but it does the job at
work.
Give me a call or put on the snows and drop by.
John

From dramsey11 at alltel.net  Wed Nov 19 18:01:06 2008
From: dramsey11 at alltel.net (Darrell Ramsey)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 20:01:06 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...II
In-Reply-To: <50194710543307727493058703103824233483-Webmail@me.com>
Message-ID: <20081120010106.HATE28131.ispmxaamta08-gx.windstream.net@VALUEDFD36E9B8>

Jay's got it right.  I never had any luck using a unisyn on my six but the
synchrometer is a breeze.  I bought mine from Richard also.  I do find that
the unisyn works great on my jag's SUs though.  The unisyn seems to disrupt
the airflow on the Z-S but not the SUs.

Darrell

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jay Snable
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 2:53 PM
To: James_ TR6
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...II

I never had much luck with the unisyn myself, and ended up getting a
synchrometer from Richard Good that works much better (of course it is much
more expensive too):

From cheftush at rogers.com  Wed Nov 19 20:43:35 2008
From: cheftush at rogers.com (Dave)
Date: Wed, 19 Nov 2008 22:43:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] New Production Run/6-PACK Grille Badges
Message-ID: <67D7304A7E8841D5A8F4D3A2CE8E2EBC@davelaptop>

I am taking orders for anyone interested in purchasing a new 6-PACK Grille
Badge.  The new badge is a grille mount design and comes complete with the
mounting kit.  The cost of the badge is $25 US including shipping to anywhere
in the Continental US and Canada.

Please see the attached photo.

Please email me at cheftush at rogers.com if you are interested in purchasing a
badge.

Cheers,
David Tushingham

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of New 6PACK Badge.jpg]

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Thu Nov 20 12:23:07 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 14:23:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lucas to Delco Alternator Recipe for late TR6
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82CA7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<36E68CE705314A9DB929CCA160DA512B@norman>
Message-ID: <A957A83DA4AA49A3AB5AB4366762C192@artvaca6b69b44>

  I'm looking for the recipe for converting my 18ACR Lucas Alternator to a 
Delco unit.
I normally like to keep things original on my 75 TR6, but my Alternator went 
yesterday and
I want to upgrade my Headlamps to the Cibies and maybe a thing or 2 else in 
the future.
At least these upgrades are easily reversible back to original 
configuration. I still have my
Stromberg's mounted on their Intake Manifiold since converting to my SU's.
 I need to know a good Alternator to buy with the proper Bracket and any 
Plug adapter I may need
as well as the Pulley and Fan Belt needed to complete the conversion neatly.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Wayne Lee
wayne at motorcarriage.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Nov 20 13:04:16 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 20:04:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Lucas to Delco Alternator Recipe for late TR6
In-Reply-To: <A957A83DA4AA49A3AB5AB4366762C192@artvaca6b69b44>
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82CA7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<36E68CE705314A9DB929CCA160DA512B@norman>
	<A957A83DA4AA49A3AB5AB4366762C192@artvaca6b69b44>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82FC2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Wayne, there are probably several/many options for higher output alternators.
I used a Bosch unit which is well known to be mechanically and plug compatible
with the original Lucas so it is a bolt on and delivers 55A.

I bought mine at Autozone (part number 13107) for around $120 last year. I had
to source a fan and pulley from the local alternator shop as I didn't want to
cannibalize my otherwise good Lucas alternator. That added another $15 or so
to the cost. The fan belt will depend on the pulley size but I am using a 45.5
inch belt.

The new alternator came with a built in voltage sense widget so I just
insulated and tucked away the original wire in the loom as it was no longer
needed.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Wayne Lee
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 2:23 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Lucas to Delco Alternator Recipe for late TR6

  I'm looking for the recipe for converting my 18ACR Lucas Alternator to a
Delco unit.
I normally like to keep things original on my 75 TR6, but my Alternator went
yesterday and
I want to upgrade my Headlamps to the Cibies and maybe a thing or 2 else in
the future.
At least these upgrades are easily reversible back to original
configuration. I still have my
Stromberg's mounted on their Intake Manifiold since converting to my SU's.
 I need to know a good Alternator to buy with the proper Bracket and any
Plug adapter I may need
as well as the Pulley and Fan Belt needed to complete the conversion neatly.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Wayne Lee
wayne at motorcarriage.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Nov 20 13:48:16 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 15:48:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lucas to Delco Alternator Recipe for late TR6
In-Reply-To: <A957A83DA4AA49A3AB5AB4366762C192@artvaca6b69b44>
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82CA7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><36E68CE705314A9DB929CCA160DA512B@norman>
	<A957A83DA4AA49A3AB5AB4366762C192@artvaca6b69b44>
Message-ID: <3D751B5393CB4515917BED6C5FBAC5DE@BOBSNEWPC>

Wayne,
Here's the Delco upgrade that I did 4 years ago just before installing Dan's
wire harness. http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Alternator_Conversion_1.htm

You will run into the same problem I did in that the alternator mounting
bracket also holds the air pump so, unless you're more clever than I am,
you'll need to get a bracket from an early TR6. Or maybe you can find a way
to get the Delco unit to fit a late TR6 bracket. Any good alternator repair
shop should be able to source the right size pulley and install it on the
new alternator. I just brought them my Lucas unit with the pulley and they
went from there. I was able to retain my stock belt size.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Wayne Lee
Sent: Thursday, November 20, 2008 2:23 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Lucas to Delco Alternator Recipe for late TR6

  I'm looking for the recipe for converting my 18ACR Lucas Alternator to a
Delco unit.
I normally like to keep things original on my 75 TR6, but my Alternator went
yesterday and I want to upgrade my Headlamps to the Cibies and maybe a thing
or 2 else in the future.
At least these upgrades are easily reversible back to original
configuration. I still have my Stromberg's mounted on their Intake Manifiold
since converting to my SU's.
 I need to know a good Alternator to buy with the proper Bracket and any
Plug adapter I may need as well as the Pulley and Fan Belt needed to
complete the conversion neatly.
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Wayne Lee
wayne at motorcarriage.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From grego at sandesco.com  Thu Nov 20 14:43:26 2008
From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 13:43:26 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Lucas to Delco Alternator Recipe for late TR6
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82FC2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl><41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82CA7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<36E68CE705314A9DB929CCA160DA512B@norman>
	<A957A83DA4AA49A3AB5AB4366762C192@artvaca6b69b44>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF72799DB82FC2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <20081120134326.9j9npf8corkgcoo8@webmail.dsl-only.net>

Quoting "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>:

> Wayne, there are probably several/many options for higher output alternators.
> I used a Bosch unit which is well known to be mechanically and plug   
> compatible
> with the original Lucas so it is a bolt on and delivers 55A.

This is the way to go. Delco units can be pretty iffy, unless this is a car
that you don't plan to drive much. Lots of the Delco alternators use really
cheap bearings, especially the rear "bearing", which in many cases is just
a bushing. I have had several go out after 30k miles. The third time it
happened I went to get a replacement and noticed that after 10+ years they
had not changed the design. I chose to get an aftermarket compatible unit.
-grego

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Nov 20 19:11:55 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 18:11:55 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...II
In-Reply-To: <COL101-W80025ABB9FB694668DA94A800D0@phx.gbl>
References: <COL101-W25589EFEC8354C87D69A48800D0@phx.gbl>
	<4923BFAA.6010605@dfn.com>
	<COL101-W80025ABB9FB694668DA94A800D0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B76F2D8@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	James:

	I use the hose method. Get a chunk of hose and use it like a stethoscope -
and listen to the hissing from each carburetor. Tweak the idle speed until the
volume of the hissing from each carb is equal. The carb meter has not worked
for me since I rebuilt my motor. The idle vacuum is too weak with the cam to
support the vacuum gauge. For that matter, I cannot use the lift the slide
technique to set the mixture either, and for the same reason.
	Having said that, I must ask why you can use the meter on one carb, but not
the other. You need to check your carb diaphragm to see if it is torn or has a
pinhole. You will need to stretch the diaphragm to make sure, you cannot
depend on just a visual inspection.
	You should fix whatever is causing the two carbs to behave differently.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of James_ TR6
Sent: Wednesday, November 19, 2008 11:23 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...II

So I forgot to mention, I did have the linkage loosened so each carb would
move independently. so my method has been to adjust the idle screw and tweak
the jet needle. then i place the unisync over one carb, adjust the wheel so
the float
is in the middle-ish and then place over the other carb. but it either makes
the other
carb stall out or race. the ball of course is way off and does not much the
other carb.

well, i probably just need to fiddle around. just wish there was a formula!
LOL!
and maybe to a degree there is...either the idle screw or needle.

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu Nov 20 19:40:41 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 21:40:41 EST
Subject: [6pack] Help with Sync'ing those darn carbs...II
Message-ID: <d32.44e722d3.365779a9@aol.com>

Follow Vances advice and inspect the diaphragms.  If you find them to  be OK,
try resetting your idle screws by turning them all the way out and then
advancing them each about 1 1/2 turns.  Now try the Unisyn.
When you say that the ball is way off I would assume that you mean  that it
is much higher than the other.  That would tell me that the  offending carb
has
more throttle and the vacuum is drawing the ball up  further.  Reestablish
your throttle screw settings first.  They may be  way off.  Make sure your
fast
idle screw on the cold start is backed all  the way out so it does not come
into play.
BTW I have never been able to use a Unisyn on Z-S carbs without it
interfering with the running of the car.  I always had to get on and off it
really
quickly and get a fast read.  I finally gave it away.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from
Dell.  Shop Deals
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http
://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Nov 20 20:27:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 21:27:20 -0600
Subject: [6pack] different data point
References: <d32.44e722d3.365779a9@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000301c94b89$12501250$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

just so you know, i have triple carbs and the unisyn works fine for me

From FSZEK at aol.com  Thu Nov 20 20:31:19 2008
From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 20 Nov 2008 22:31:19 EST
Subject: [6pack] different data point
Message-ID: <c0a.4d0cb827.36578587@aol.com>

I'll check in. My stock '70 Z-S's like the  Uni...
**************One site has it all. Your email accounts, your social networks, 
and the things you love. Try the new AOL.com 
today!(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1212962939x1200825291/aol?redir=http://www.aol.com/?optin=new-dp
%26icid=aolcom40vanity%26ncid=emlcntaolcom00000001)

From william.mcintire at wright.edu  Fri Nov 21 04:11:51 2008
From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 06:11:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] different data point
In-Reply-To: <c0a.4d0cb827.36578587@aol.com>
References: <c0a.4d0cb827.36578587@aol.com>
Message-ID: <6950f957dad9.49265127@wright.edu>

Might as well chime in too. My '70 6 has never known anything but a unisync.
Has always worked fine. The Speedster on the other hand has dual 44 IDF Webers
and not enough air flow on idle, stalls the engine when uni is dialed in to
work. Solved the problem by putting a piece of masking tape over the air flow
hole (technical term) opposite the vacuum port in the uni. The air flow
adjuster can then be adjusted to  operate the sync and keep the engine
running. YMMV, works for me.

Bill
'70 6

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Nov 21 05:14:12 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:14:12 EST
Subject: [6pack] different data point
Message-ID: <cb2.47148b56.36580014@aol.com>

Maybe the magic formula is idle speed.  I idle at about 750 -  800.  If I
turn it up it works, but at that speed if I open the throat  enough so as not
to
interrupt the running of the car, the plastic ball does not  move enough to
get a read.  As I said I can do it if I get on and  off quickly and I can get
the car to idle very well that way, it is just that I  don't think that is how
the thing is intended to work.  I started using one  of those snail type,
except it is an older style that works on the same  principle.  That works
fine for
me.
We are talking about the Edlebrock (?) thing with the glass tube and  little
red ball, right?
What do you do differently?

David Lylis
69 TR6  CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from
Dell.  Shop Deals
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http
://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)

From davgil at aol.com  Fri Nov 21 06:57:36 2008
From: davgil at aol.com (davgil at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 08:57:36 -0500
Subject: [6pack] different data point
In-Reply-To: <cb2.47148b56.36580014@aol.com>
References: <cb2.47148b56.36580014@aol.com>
Message-ID: <8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>

Reading the posts about ways to balance carbs made me think of a tuning device that was in the toolbox of my 1976 TR6 when I purchased it, but that I have never tried.? As I recall, this is a combination of of an indicator to set float height along with two rods that go into the carbs with small wires atop them each of which?has a 90 degree bend.? The principle appears to be to adjust idle speed until the two wires (which each point to the other carb due to the bend) are equal and move simultaneously.? Has anyone else seen this device and does it work?? 
David Gill

-----Original Message-----
From: DLylis at aol.com
To: sumton at sbcglobal.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 7:14 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] different data point



Maybe the magic formula is idle speed.  I idle at about 750 -  800.  If I
turn it up it works, but at that speed if I open the throat  enough so as not
to
interrupt the running of the car, the plastic ball does not  move enough to
get a read.  As I said I can do it if I get on and  off quickly and I can get
the car to idle very well that way, it is just that I  don't think that is how
the thing is intended to work.  I started using one  of those snail type,
except it is an older style that works on the same  principle.  That works
fine for
me.
We are talking about the Edlebrock (?) thing with the glass tube and  little
red ball, right?
What do you do differently?

David Lylis
69 TR6  CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from
Dell.  Shop Deals
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http
://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as davgil at aol.com

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri Nov 21 08:11:39 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 15:11:39 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Non LBC related - give a friend a click
In-Reply-To: <8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>
References: <cb2.47148b56.36580014@aol.com>
	<8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W18151D5F2FA5AD541F72498E0F0@phx.gbl>

Hey all,
Sorry for the non-LBC post, but I have a friend that is in the final of a
radio station contest to win a free trip to Guatemala. It's a mission trip and
if she wins she's planning to take her adopted daughter. This has been an all
week long thing and she is now one of the final two contentents. She needs a
final weekend blitz of votes, so please take a quick minute and follow this
link to vote for her.  www.wbfj.fm , click Survivor Guatemala, and vote for
Elise Electric!

This weekend only NOV 22, 2008.

If you have any group that you think wouldn't mind the note, please forward
this to them.

Please don't reply on-list.

thanks,
Sloane :)69-Six

_________________________________________________________________
Access your email online and on the go with Windows Live Hotmail.
http://windowslive.com/Explore/Hotmail?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_hotmail_acq_access_1
12008

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Fri Nov 21 08:52:02 2008
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 08:52:02 -0700
Subject: [6pack] different data point
In-Reply-To: <8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>
References: <cb2.47148b56.36580014@aol.com>
	<8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0811210752n24298836o7fdfc126988113be@mail.gmail.com>

David,

Your comments seem to describe an SU Tool Kit. These tools are used to
gauge if the pistons in SU carbs operate at a synchronized level.

I am not aware that this kit can be used with Strombergs.

Others may confirm.

Henri



On Fri, Nov 21, 2008 at 6:57 AM,  <davgil at aol.com> wrote:
> Reading the posts about ways to balance carbs made me think of a tuning device that was in the toolbox of my 1976 TR6 when I purchased it, but that I have never tried.? As I recall, this is a combination of of an indicator to set float height along with two rods that go into the carbs with small wires atop them each of which?has a 90 degree bend.? The principle appears to be to adjust idle speed until the two wires (which each point to the other carb due to the bend) are equal and move simultaneously.? Has anyone else seen this device and does it work??
> David Gill

From fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com  Fri Nov 21 10:20:19 2008
From: fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com (Jeff Fetner)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 07:20:19 -1000
Subject: [6pack] different data point
References: <cb2.47148b56.36580014@aol.com>
	<8CB19F83E149B93-101C-625@MBLK-M16.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <90F866319F9D462485D07514AB18005B@HP>

  I got one of those kits in the ubiquitous box of stuff that came along 
with a parts transmission I bought.  It's in a red vinyl pouch (ISTR SU ones 
are black) and has a folded instruction sheet for tuning Stromberg CD 
carburetors.  Made by STE in "West Germany", stock No. 88-4467.

  I've used it as Dave described and it seems to work well enough...as well 
as a 123K mile TR6 can be sync'd anyway.  The last part of the instructions 
state that for precision synchronizing, use their "SYNCHROMETER" with cone 
adaptor #18.

Jeff

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <davgil at aol.com>
To: <DLylis at aol.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, November 21, 2008 3:57 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] different data point


> Reading the posts about ways to balance carbs made me think of a tuning 
> device that was in the toolbox of my 1976 TR6 when I purchased it, but 
> that I have never tried.? As I recall, this is a combination of of an 
> indicator to set float height along with two rods that go into the carbs 
> with small wires atop them each of which?has a 90 degree bend.? The 
> principle appears to be to adjust idle speed until the two wires (which 
> each point to the other carb due to the bend) are equal and move 
> simultaneously.? Has anyone else seen this device and does it work??
> David Gill

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Nov 21 20:19:18 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 21 Nov 2008 22:19:18 EST
Subject: [6pack] different data point
Message-ID: <d5d.297e5f3c.3658d436@aol.com>

I saw this setup once and so I took two plastic Bic ballpoint pen bodies
that happened to fit properly in the damper.  I drilled two small holes in
each
and put in a piece of fine wire long enough so that they could point at  each
other.  This worked remarkably well to synch the carbs.
Then I went back to drinking wine.
Haven't used them since.  It was good for about an hour of  amusement.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from
Dell.  Shop Deals
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http
://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Nov 22 17:26:32 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 22 Nov 2008 18:26:32 -0600
Subject: [6pack] engine question
References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
	<000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local>
	<000301c8a335$1c91a3c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <002a01c94d02$23ef52d0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>

Hi, all.

I have a friend with a very nice, very original 75 TR6 that was her 
stepfathers, who bought it new.  i've been under the car, and it still has 
the cardboard tranny tunnel.

anyway, looks like she blew the head gasket - the dipstick comes out with 
multiple flavors . . .

she's had some overheating issues, and we think some of the water passages 
may be blocked.  can you get to them from the top of the engine once the 
head is off?

thanks! 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Sun Nov 23 11:48:29 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 10:48:29 -0800
Subject: [6pack] engine question
In-Reply-To: <002a01c94d02$23ef52d0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
	<000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local>
	<000301c8a335$1c91a3c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<002a01c94d02$23ef52d0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local>
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B7D4B4D@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Oliver:

	The blown head gasket would explain the overheating. I recommend that after
you do the head gasket, you simply do a good flush and refill with 50/50 mix
and replace the thermostat. That should do you just fine.


	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:27 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] engine question

Hi, all.

I have a friend with a very nice, very original 75 TR6 that was her
stepfathers, who bought it new.  i've been under the car, and it still has
the cardboard tranny tunnel.

anyway, looks like she blew the head gasket - the dipstick comes out with
multiple flavors . . .

she's had some overheating issues, and we think some of the water passages
may be blocked.  can you get to them from the top of the engine once the
head is off?

thanks!

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Sun Nov 23 11:52:16 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 10:52:16 -0800
Subject: [6pack] engine question
References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
	<000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local>
	<000301c8a335$1c91a3c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<002a01c94d02$23ef52d0$6415a8c0@Ranteer.local> 
Message-ID: <4158487B9DEE0647BA23911D1C2279573B7D4B4E@orsmsx501.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Oliver:

	BTW, be sure to get the CORRECT head gasket for the car (75s require the fire
ring style head gasket), and install it RIGHT SIDE UP. If you install it
upside down, it will blow in very short order. My head gasket was not marked
"top" and only by studying the shop manual could you tell that it mattered
which way it had to be installed. My DPO got the head gasket in upside down,
and before I rebuilt the motor the #6 cylinder had 50 PSI cranking pressure.
Needless to say it was down on power a bit. =:-o

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2008 4:27 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] engine question

Hi, all.

I have a friend with a very nice, very original 75 TR6 that was her
stepfathers, who bought it new.  i've been under the car, and it still has
the cardboard tranny tunnel.

anyway, looks like she blew the head gasket - the dipstick comes out with
multiple flavors . . .

she's had some overheating issues, and we think some of the water passages
may be blocked.  can you get to them from the top of the engine once the
head is off?

thanks!

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sun Nov 23 17:31:29 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 19:31:29 -0500
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
Message-ID: <4929F5E1.4090808@bright.net>

James and list. A question - a Unisyn, or similar tool, measures air 
flow, right?  And, it is almost always used at idle or high idle.  So, 
the real question is - how often do you drive your car at idle?  If the 
answer is, "I don't drive at idle", then here is the simple, no meter 
needed to synch your carbs.  With the engine off, and air filter 
removed, have someone sit in the car and plant their foot on the gas 
pedal flat to the floor.  Using a light and a tool to hold up the carb 
piston, raise the piston and check the position of the carb butterfly.  
It should be absolutely at right angles to the bore of the carb throat. 
Do the same with the next carb.  It should be at the same position as 
the first one you checked.  If both butterfly's are at right angles to 
the carb bore and parallel to each other, the carbs are synched at 
running position.  Note, this has nothing to do with mixture.  The 
reason for having someone hold the carbs open with the gas pedal, it 
eliminates the possibility of the foot pedal not fully opening the 
carbs.(WOT wide open throttle) Ted

James_ TR6 wrote:

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Nov 23 17:57:52 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 19:57:52 EST
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
Message-ID: <d02.47aea7c4.365b5610@aol.com>

In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:32:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
tedtsimx at bright.net writes:

Using a  light and a tool to hold up the carb
piston, raise the piston and check  the position of the carb butterfly.
It should be absolutely at right  angles to the bore of the carb throat.


I guess you have a good point, but it does raise the interesting  question as
to why those who know more than me have been sitting around  with a hose
stuck in their ear for the past 50 years.

David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from
Dell.  Shop Deals
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http
://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)

From tom628 at verizon.net  Sun Nov 23 18:10:59 2008
From: tom628 at verizon.net (Tom Note)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 20:10:59 -0500
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
References: <d02.47aea7c4.365b5610@aol.com>
Message-ID: <F0019169AA0D4731A11C7C7F57A37728@Toms>

I agree with Ted. I've always set them to reach WOT at the same time, and 
then let the idle fall where it may. The idle always seems to work out just 
fine that way also.

Tom

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <tedtsimx at bright.net>; <jattr6 at hotmail.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] synching carbs


> In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:32:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> tedtsimx at bright.net writes:
>
> Using a  light and a tool to hold up the carb
> piston, raise the piston and check  the position of the carb butterfly.
> It should be absolutely at right  angles to the bore of the carb throat.
>
>
> I guess you have a good point, but it does raise the interesting  question 
> as
> to why those who know more than me have been sitting around  with a hose
> stuck in their ear for the past 50 years.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Nov 23 18:30:33 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 20:30:33 -0500
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
Message-ID: <77419750.6FDD2A31.00159EE9@cs.com>

an added feature of Ted's advice is that examination of WOT from  full pedal engagement ensures that the throttle linkage is adjusted to it's full benefit.

full engagement can be limited at a couple of locations.


Joe A 

>I agree with Ted. I've always set them to reach WOT at the same time, and 
>then let the idle fall where it may. The idle always seems to work out just 
>fine that way also.
>
>Tom
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: <DLylis at aol.com>
>To: <tedtsimx at bright.net>; <jattr6 at hotmail.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 7:57 PM
>Subject: Re: [6pack] synching carbs
>
>
>> In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:32:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
>> tedtsimx at bright.net writes:
>>
>> Using a  light and a tool to hold up the carb
>> piston, raise the piston and check  the position of the carb butterfly.
>> It should be absolutely at right  angles to the bore of the carb throat.
>>
>>
>> I guess you have a good point, but it does raise the interesting  question 
>> as
>> to why those who know more than me have been sitting around  with a hose
>> stuck in their ear for the past 50 years.
>>
>> David  Lylis
>> 69 TR6 CC26160L
>> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Nov 23 20:22:07 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 22:22:07 EST
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
Message-ID: <cf2.4712163f.365b77df@aol.com>

Interesting.  I have done both; to make sure that full pedal opens the
throttle plates fully and then synching at idle.  I guess I have never
thought it
through that if the throttle plates are even at full throttle then  they
should be the same at idle.  In doing this I have had to adjust at  idle, but
then
I didn't really pay all that much attention to the full  throttle settings,
but more to the idle adjustment.  In setting at full  throttle do you do a
fine
adjustment at idle as well?
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO
**************Check out smokinb hot deals on laptops, desktops and more from
Dell.  Shop Deals
(http://pr.atwola.com/promoclk/100000075x1213345834x1200842686/aol?redir=http
://ad.doubleclick.net/clk;209513277;31396581;l)

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun Nov 23 21:01:05 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 23:01:05 EST
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
Message-ID: <c3d.483ee52b.365b8101@cs.com>

Typically, we do the synchronizer routine at idle, first.  Then examine full 
throttle position. 

Never thought of this check in the terms that Ted presented, but it makes 
sense, and we will look more closely at the butterflies the next time.

Always something more to learn. It's a wonderful list.

Joe A


> Interesting.  I have done both; to make sure that full pedal opens the 
> throttle plates fully and then synching at idle.  I guess I have never thought it 
> through that if the throttle plates are even at full throttle then they 
> should be the same at idle.  In doing this I have had to adjust at idle, but then 
> I didn't really pay all that much attention to the full throttle settings, 
> but more to the idle adjustment.  In setting at full throttle do you do a fine 
> adjustment at idle as well?
> David Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO

From mdporter at dfn.com  Sun Nov 23 21:29:10 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Sun, 23 Nov 2008 21:29:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
In-Reply-To: <c3d.483ee52b.365b8101@cs.com>
References: <c3d.483ee52b.365b8101@cs.com>
Message-ID: <492A2D96.3070402@dfn.com>

N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
> Typically, we do the synchronizer routine at idle, first.  Then examine full 
> throttle position. 
>
> Never thought of this check in the terms that Ted presented, but it makes 
> sense, and we will look more closely at the butterflies the next time.
>
> Always something more to learn. It's a wonderful list.
>
>   

It makes sense if your carburetors are in very good working order and 
you spend much of your time at full throttle. However, if the carb bores 
and throttle edges are showing a little wear from the throttles being 
snapped shut, throttle bushes worn a bit, and you're using the car to 
toodle around town and spend a lot of time at idle and part-throttle, 
the idle synchronization method is better. Throttle plate and bore 
irregularities show up much more at idle than at full throttle.


The method of synchronizing at idle is probably secondary.  I suspect 
that using a Unisyn (or a similar device) probably can produce more 
accurate results, if employed properly, but, likely only a bit better 
results than those achieved by sticking a tube in one's ear and paying 
attention.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Mon Nov 24 10:09:25 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Mon, 24 Nov 2008 12:09:25 -0500
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
In-Reply-To: <F0019169AA0D4731A11C7C7F57A37728@Toms>
References: <d02.47aea7c4.365b5610@aol.com>,
	<F0019169AA0D4731A11C7C7F57A37728@Toms>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0100A9C29871@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

The only way to properly sych the the carbs is with an airflow meter.  Your
ear is more sensitive to pitch variations than your eye is able to judge the
position of carb butterfly valve.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Tom Note [tom628 at verizon.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 8:10 PM
To: DLylis at aol.com; tedtsimx at bright.net; jattr6 at hotmail.com;
6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] synching carbs

I agree with Ted. I've always set them to reach WOT at the same time, and
then let the idle fall where it may. The idle always seems to work out just
fine that way also.

Tom

----- Original Message -----
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <tedtsimx at bright.net>; <jattr6 at hotmail.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 7:57 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] synching carbs


> In a message dated 11/23/2008 7:32:58 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> tedtsimx at bright.net writes:
>
> Using a  light and a tool to hold up the carb
> piston, raise the piston and check  the position of the carb butterfly.
> It should be absolutely at right  angles to the bore of the carb throat.
>
>
> I guess you have a good point, but it does raise the interesting  question
> as
> to why those who know more than me have been sitting around  with a hose
> stuck in their ear for the past 50 years.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Wed Nov 26 11:29:51 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Wed, 26 Nov 2008 13:29:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs
In-Reply-To: <4929F5E1.4090808@bright.net>
References: <4929F5E1.4090808@bright.net>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890B0100A9C29877@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

You just have to ask the question, "how often do you drive with your foot flat
on the floor?"

And if your answer is "often" then you should not be using any "street use"
carb setup.  And none of the afore-mentioned methods should be used.  You go
to a speed shop to have everything dyna-tuned.

But otherwise, make sure you linkage is not worn, loose, and appropriately
adjusted (as you are basically recommending,) etc. and then the appropriate
method is the UNISYN, or such a device.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces at autox.team.net [6pack-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Ted Schumacher [tedtsimx at bright.net]
Sent: Sunday, November 23, 2008 7:31 PM
To: James_ TR6; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] synching carbs

James and list. A question - a Unisyn, or similar tool, measures air
flow, right?  And, it is almost always used at idle or high idle.  So,
the real question is - how often do you drive your car at idle?  If the
answer is, "I don't drive at idle", then here is the simple, no meter
needed to synch your carbs.  With the engine off, and air filter
removed, have someone sit in the car and plant their foot on the gas
pedal flat to the floor.  Using a light and a tool to hold up the carb
piston, raise the piston and check the position of the carb butterfly.
It should be absolutely at right angles to the bore of the carb throat.
Do the same with the next carb.  It should be at the same position as
the first one you checked.  If both butterfly's are at right angles to
the carb bore and parallel to each other, the carbs are synched at
running position.  Note, this has nothing to do with mixture.  The
reason for having someone hold the carbs open with the gas pedal, it
eliminates the possibility of the foot pedal not fully opening the
carbs.(WOT wide open throttle) Ted

James_ TR6 wrote:
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From yellowtr at adelphia.net  Thu Nov 27 16:52:07 2008
From: yellowtr at adelphia.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 27 Nov 2008 18:52:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] chrome plater
Message-ID: <200811271852.07758.yellowtr@adelphia.net>

FYI,

I located a chrome plating co in Syracuse NY.

I never knew there was a plater so close to my home.

Their website is: http://www.sandysbumpermart.com/

They are located in Syracuse NY and are the only plating co in NYS.

I dropped off my 72 TR6 bumper yesterday and the "sale" price is 288.

I thought that was a real good price.

I hope it comes out good because I have other "stuff" to get chromed.

They do most of the work for shops in NE and Long Island.

I believe the turn around right now is 2 - 4 weeks.

I will report when I get the part back.

They do all metals, including the pot metal common to the TR4 and TR6 rear 
tail light assemblies.

When I return for my bumper, I am taking the TR6 rear license plate light 
assembly to see what they can do to remove the pitting. If that comes out 
good and is a reasonable price, they get the tail light assemblies!


Bob

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Nov 28 06:02:02 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 28 Nov 2008 13:02:02 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Long overdue updates to TTACD2009 website
Message-ID: <87B758C234AA4301B3D1B5B03FA357D0@Bevan>

Hi, Everyone

For those of you not on the various Triumph email lists, you'll have probably missed out on the 
updates kindly submitted on my behalf by Tim Buja of Illinois Sports Owners Association. This is 
where some forty members of the club (under the eagle eye of Stagmeister Joe Pawlak) are working 
flat out to prepare the Stag - henceforward known as 'uncle jack' in memory of the late Jack Drews.
Jack was very well-known throughout the Triumph racing world in North America for many years, but 
tragically died at the wheel of his car in August 2008.
Please pay the website a visit to check on the progress of the car and also to see the generous 
donation of FIVE new tyres from Cooper and the addition today, of details relating to regalia sales 
that are now 'live' and available for you to order.

Cheers, everyone

John Macartney

Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk
An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat Nov 29 14:18:17 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 29 Nov 2008 16:18:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Pulstar Pulse plugs
Message-ID: <4931B199.1010902@snet.net>

    In a post some time back, someone mentioned trying Pulstar Pulse 
plugs.  They have a pulse circuit that build energy like a camera 
flash.  I was skeptical at $25 each, but I'm gullible too:)   I put them 
in the TR6 last night after pulling a perfectly good set of NGK's out 
that had perfect color.  I was amazed to find when I turned the key 
after the car had been sitting almost a month, that the engine seemed to 
jump to life.  It idled nicer and I was able to take off the choke 
before I was out of the driveway.  Normally it needs choke for a mile or 
so when it's this cold(30 F).   I cant say if there's more horsepower or 
better fuel economy, but It definitely ran nicer than before.  Before 
the idle tended to be a bit lumpy due to the cam and roller rockers and 
very light flywheel.  It actually felt much smoother.  They might not be 
worth $25 a plug, but if you need a Christmas present for the 
car.......could be worth a try.      John Mitchell  76 TR6

www.pulstar.com

From tr6 at pipeline.com  Sun Nov 30 11:36:19 2008
From: tr6 at pipeline.com (Ronald Olds)
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 13:36:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Pulstar Pulse plugs
In-Reply-To: <4931B199.1010902@snet.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAuAAAAAAAAAGR0/UN+345Oi0ESU7rmM4wBAITr15KniR9MuVqf/6yjAv4AAAFImMEAABAAAABY8Hec7mgaTLMc1ZL2XXa1AQAAAAA=@pipeline.com>

Sounds almost too good to be true.  Has anyone else tried these?  what was
he results?

Ron Olds

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 4:18 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Pulstar Pulse plugs

    In a post some time back, someone mentioned trying Pulstar Pulse 
plugs.  They have a pulse circuit that build energy like a camera 
flash.  I was skeptical at $25 each, but I'm gullible too:)   I put them 
in the TR6 last night after pulling a perfectly good set of NGK's out 
that had perfect color.  I was amazed to find when I turned the key 
after the car had been sitting almost a month, that the engine seemed to 
jump to life.  It idled nicer and I was able to take off the choke 
before I was out of the driveway.  Normally it needs choke for a mile or 
so when it's this cold(30 F).   I cant say if there's more horsepower or 
better fuel economy, but It definitely ran nicer than before.  Before 
the idle tended to be a bit lumpy due to the cam and roller rockers and 
very light flywheel.  It actually felt much smoother.  They might not be 
worth $25 a plug, but if you need a Christmas present for the 
car.......could be worth a try.      John Mitchell  76 TR6

www.pulstar.com
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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Nov 30 13:42:40 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 20:42:40 GMT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Pulstar Pulse plugs
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV800AB5D6CA45FC57F8A29F4060@phx.gbl>

If I was to come across one of these plugs I would probably make the following tests:

a) Clip a sparkplug wire to its terminal and ground the threaded end against the block.

b) Start the engine and observe the fire across the gap. Maybe do this in the dark.

c) Make the same test with an ordinary plug.

Is there a noticeable difference in intensity, color, or other visual? Do a double blind test if in doubt.

Meanwhile, High Energy Ignition systems produce this noticeable higher intensity when a plug wire is positioned to jump to ground. Still, it only takes one decent spark to get the flame front going.  A larger spark does nothing further, once this front gets moving.

Assuming that this "pulse" plug is the real McCoy, the next questions might be "how long would they last"? Do any of the race teams use them? Are there further benefits if they're coupled with a HEI?

Then again, as noted earlier, Christmas is coming!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Ronald Olds
Sent: Sunday, November 30, 2008 10:36 AM
To: 'John Mitchell', '6-Pack', triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Pulstar Pulse plugs

Sounds almost too good to be true.  Has anyone else tried these?  what was
he results?

Ron Olds

-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Saturday, November 29, 2008 4:18 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Pulstar Pulse plugs

    In a post some time back, someone mentioned trying Pulstar Pulse 
plugs.  They have a pulse circuit that build energy like a camera 
flash.  I was skeptical at $25 each, but I'm gullible too:)   I put them 
in the TR6 last night after pulling a perfectly good set of NGK's out 
that had perfect color.  I was amazed to find when I turned the key 
after the car had been sitting almost a month, that the engine seemed to 
jump to life.  It idled nicer and I was able to take off the choke 
before I was out of the driveway.  Normally it needs choke for a mile or 
so when it's this cold(30 F).   I cant say if there's more horsepower or 
better fuel economy, but It definitely ran nicer than before.  Before 
the idle tended to be a bit lumpy due to the cam and roller rockers and 
very light flywheel.  It actually felt much smoother.  They might not be 
worth $25 a plug, but if you need a Christmas present for the 
car.......could be worth a try.      John Mitchell  76 TR6

www.pulstar.com
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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You are subscribed as ronald.olds at mchsi.com

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From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sun Nov 30 22:54:30 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 30 Nov 2008 19:54:30 -1000
Subject: [6pack] Frame Blasting
Message-ID: <7F5FB0E27DE048A6A61BD01BC120C494@PamHome>

Aloha All,

I've got my frame all stripped and power washed and am now ready to have it
media blasted.  Can you guys/gals give me some prices on what this should
cost.  I know that price varies with location but am curious what others have
paid or been quoted.

Thanks,

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI