From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Thu May  1 07:41:32 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 08:41:32 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation
Message-ID: <000901c8ab91$11ae6ab0$7407f746@Dell320>

Fellow Listers:

The VTR buyers guide shows average value range of a TR6 in North America is
between a low of $700.00 to a high of $12,000.00. This was accurate as of
1995. What about today in 2008?  Anybody have an updated valuation of the TR6
automobile? I rarely ever see another one on the road anymore.

Stuart Thompson

http://www.triumphowners.com/1069

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu May  1 11:00:27 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 10:00:27 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation
References: <000901c8ab91$11ae6ab0$7407f746@Dell320>
Message-ID: <005201c8abac$db660500$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

How about NADA prices?
http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1970&m=1338&d=5706&c=7&vi=87848&da=1
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Stuart Thompson" <stuartt at tlthompson.com>
To: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 6:41 AM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation


> Fellow Listers:
>
> The VTR buyers guide shows average value range of a TR6 in North America
is
> between a low of $700.00 to a high of $12,000.00. This was accurate as of
> 1995. What about today in 2008?  Anybody have an updated valuation of the
TR6
> automobile? I rarely ever see another one on the road anymore.
>
> Stuart Thompson
>
> http://www.triumphowners.com/1069
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Thu May  1 08:21:43 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 09:21:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation
References: <000901c8ab91$11ae6ab0$7407f746@Dell320>
	<005201c8abac$db660500$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8ab96$ae56d730$7407f746@Dell320>

Now that's more like it!  Thanks Bob



> How about NADA prices?
> http://www.nadaguides.com/default.aspx?LI=1-22-1-5013-0-0-0&l=1&w=22&p=1&f=5014&y=1970&m=1338&d=5706&c=7&vi=87848&da=1
> Regards,
> Bob

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Thu May  1 08:31:10 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 10:31:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation
References: <000901c8ab91$11ae6ab0$7407f746@Dell320><005201c8abac$db660500$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<000a01c8ab96$ae56d730$7407f746@Dell320>
Message-ID: <038901c8ab98$0049e2c0$c7fba8c0@hp>

I think the completed listing on Ebay might give you a idea of what the real
world prices are...  Bob M

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May  1 09:01:13 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 11:01:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation
In-Reply-To: <000901c8ab91$11ae6ab0$7407f746@Dell320>
References: <000901c8ab91$11ae6ab0$7407f746@Dell320>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805011058380.30777@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 1 May 2008, Stuart Thompson wrote:

> Fellow Listers:
>
> The VTR buyers guide shows average value range of a TR6 in North America is
> between a low of $700.00 to a high of $12,000.00. This was accurate as of
> 1995. What about today in 2008?  Anybody have an updated valuation of the TR6
> automobile? I rarely ever see another one on the road anymore.

To be fair, I'd say those prices are about double now with a stunning car 
getting into the $20k and above range _if you can find the right buyer_. 
But there are still plenty of drivers out there (condition 2 or 3) that 
can be had in the 8k to 10k range.

Parts cars costs are higher too, maybe in the $1k range. Depends on what 
parts are there.

> Stuart Thompson

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From TR6UO at aol.com  Thu May  1 10:59:12 2008
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 12:59:12 EDT
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation
Message-ID: <cc9.2ffe840b.354b50e0@aol.com>

Bob,
You should add that that value is based on an original spec car. An  
individual's idea or even a consensus of what would be better as a  (Miata,Toyota, et 
al.) hybrid would be another matter. It may be a higher price  and it may not, 
depending on the prospective buyer's point of view. If it's your  car you 
should change it to fit your ideal. Just remember that if you're later  
representing it as a classic, you'd better have all the pieces.
 
Save your original seats, carbs, wheels, transmissions, etc.
 
Regards,
 
Steve
 



**************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car 
listings at AOL Autos.      
(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May  1 11:40:32 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 10:40:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Valuation
In-Reply-To: <cc9.2ffe840b.354b50e0@aol.com>
References: <cc9.2ffe840b.354b50e0@aol.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B2D0BC@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Steve:

	I must add a hearty Amen to that. As our cars become more rare
with the passing of time and scrappage, the values appreciate. But
looking at classic cars in general, the ORIGINAL cars will appreciate
the most. The more original, the higher the appreciation. An unrestored,
numbers matching, car in pristine condition will bring the most. This
includes details like emissions controls, correct factory color paint,
etc.
	*IF* value of the car is a major concern to YOU, then do not
customize the car. However, it is YOUR car and you should do what makes
the endorphins flow. Just do not expect your car to be as highly valued
on the market if it has Webers, Miata seats, CD players, 5 speed
conversions, etc.
	This is why I have TWO British cars - one to cherish and respect
like my wife (TR6), the other to treat like a cheap slut girlfriend (The
Mini). Hah! The mini gets bling, non stock racing parts, and sounds like
a chain saw on steroids. The TR6 sounds smooth and refined (OK, I went
for some "hot rod" on it too, but you could not tell by looking or
listening - like I said, it gets respect)
	BTW, please keep this on the list. My wife would be deeply
offended if she found out I have a slut girlfriend stashed in the
garage. =:-o

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of TR6UO at aol.com
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 9:59 AM
To: lang at isis.mit.edu; stuartt at tlthompson.com
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Valuation

Bob,
You should add that that value is based on an original spec car. An
individual's idea or even a consensus of what would be better as a
(Miata,Toyota, et
al.) hybrid would be another matter. It may be a higher price  and it
may not,
depending on the prospective buyer's point of view. If it's your  car
you
should change it to fit your ideal. Just remember that if you're later
representing it as a classic, you'd better have all the pieces.

Save your original seats, carbs, wheels, transmissions, etc.

Regards,

Steve

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu May  1 12:42:58 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 13:42:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?
References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>

saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too)

anyone I D this car?

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu May  1 14:21:47 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 20:21:47 +0000
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?
In-Reply-To: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net>
	<000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W36383C9A9BFC3AEAC3121C8EDB0@phx.gbl>

Man,
How does that chick figure out what time it is?

Sloane :)
is this car?> > From: sumton at sbcglobal.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net;
6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 13:42:58 -0500> Subject: [6pack]
what > saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too)> >
anyone I D this car?> > http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
_________________________________________________________________
In a rush? Get real-time answers with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
realtime_042008

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu May  1 15:21:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 16:21:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?
References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net><000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
	<BLU118-W36383C9A9BFC3AEAC3121C8EDB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001501c8abd1$751cdec0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>

apparently an mga

she clearly has no class . . .

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Thu May  1 16:16:59 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 18:16:59 -0400
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?
In-Reply-To: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net>
	<000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
Message-ID: <002401c8abd9$14644e30$6601a8c0@Robert>

saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too)

anyone I D this car?


Answer: MGA

From bratt at sasktel.net  Thu May  1 16:26:44 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 16:26:44 -0600
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?
References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net>
	<000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
	<BLU118-W36383C9A9BFC3AEAC3121C8EDB0@phx.gbl>
	<001501c8abd1$751cdec0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>
Message-ID: <002201c8abda$6fc9b750$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 3:21 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] what is this car?


> apparently an mga
> 
> she clearly has no class . . .
> _______________________

Looks pretty classy to me--(but are those vampire bite marks on her neck?)

For Trade:  1976 TR6 for a classy MGA  Call ed 

From bratt at sasktel.net  Thu May  1 16:37:57 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 16:37:57 -0600
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?
References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net>
	<000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
	<BLU118-W36383C9A9BFC3AEAC3121C8EDB0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <004801c8abdc$00f7be10$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

> Man,
> How does that chick figure out what time it is?
> 
> Sloane :)
Like ALL women--she consults her biological clock.

Ed

From otral at juno.com  Thu May  1 17:12:08 2008
From: otral at juno.com (alan g graffam)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 19:12:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing exhaust gasket
Message-ID: <20080501.191208.164.0.otral@juno.com>

Does anyone have advise on how to do this job and not get too frustrated?

Al Graffam CT  

From fishplate at charter.net  Thu May  1 17:32:59 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Thu, 01 May 2008 19:32:59 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing exhaust gasket
In-Reply-To: <20080501.191208.164.0.otral@juno.com>
References: <20080501.191208.164.0.otral@juno.com>
Message-ID: <20080501233259.FNMD3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 07:12 PM 5/1/2008, alan g graffam wrote:

>Does anyone have advise on how to do this job and not get too frustrated?

In general:

!.  Soak everything in PB Blaster or equivalent...

2.  Let it soak for a while, then apply more.

3.  Go drink a cool frosty beverage.

4.  Apply more, then rap the fittings with a hammer.

5.  Have another beverage.

6.  Apply more, then wait overnight.

7.  Apply more, then test with wrench.  Try to tighten just a bit 
first, then loosen after it moves.  If no movement, repeat 1 to 6 
above, until the nuts come free.

Unless you regularly win the lottery, you will probably break a stud 
where the downpipe meets the manifold.  Since you are prepared with a 
complete set of intake and exhaust gaskets, it won't be much trouble 
to completely remove the exhaust manifold and replace the 
studs.  When reassembling, copper anti-seize is your friend.



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 


-- 
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.7/1410 - Release Date: 5/1/2008 5:30 PM

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Thu May  1 18:56:58 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 19:56:58 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
Message-ID: <1055148.1209689818909.JavaMail.root@elwamui-karabash.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello List,

Where would I look for the most common cylinder block or head cracks from freezing water inside the TR6 engine?  Just curious, Greg Perry

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May  1 19:29:13 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 21:29:13 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
Message-ID: <c05.3667f9dc.354bc869@aol.com>

Your motor has freeze plugs that will give way long before the block  cracks.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From DLylis at aol.com  Thu May  1 19:32:00 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 21:32:00 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Replacing exhaust gasket
Message-ID: <c23.36e3c18b.354bc910@aol.com>

Jack Daniels
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu May  1 19:28:54 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 20:28:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Top
References: <000901c8ab91$11ae6ab0$7407f746@Dell320>
	<005201c8abac$db660500$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <000401c8abf3$e5f8ce70$8215a8c0@garage.local>

hi, all.

thanks to the recommendations from the list i have ordered a top and boot 
cover from prestige autotrim products in england.  i ordered the black 
stayfast for both.  turnaround time is two + weeks.

i will let you all know what i think.

the top was beginning to self destruct, and i noticed today the tonneau 
cover is following suit, so it was time.  my car is heavily modified so i 
was not concerned with concours appearances.  i got the zip out window but 
no reflective stripe. 

total cost was:
top: 422.95
boot cover: 246.95
shipping:  $30

labor and miscellaneous gaskets etc still to come :-(  

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Thu May  1 20:12:29 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 21:12:29 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
Message-ID: <24838794.1209694349784.JavaMail.root@elwamui-milano.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

   David,
   I  guess  that  I get the stupid question award for that one!  My mind
   went  on  a  wild tangent without bringing along common sense.  I knew
   the  answer  all  along.   Thanks for taming that wild tangent for me.
   It's time to go get some sleep.
   Regards,
   Greg Perry

   Your  motor  has freeze plugs that will give way long before the block
   cracks.

   David Lylis

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu May  1 21:04:16 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 23:04:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] On the Road Again........
Message-ID: <002701c8ac01$37164410$210110ac@bobspc>

Well folks......I got the car back on the road again...............just the
basics, tranny tunnel and driver's seat! Noisy, dirty, smelly from manifold
paint and anti-seize but running! The hydraulic clutch feels
great........... it reminds me of my last Audi......light and smooth. The 5
speed tranny slides into gear so easily though I need to learn where 3rd is!
The Nissan diff is smooth and quiet too..... Well, I really won't know how
quiet everything is until I get the whole interior back together. But for
now everything is great. There's some updates on my site but I need to work
on the 5 speed section. We had a couple of starts and stops and start overs
there! Oh yea...........and there's no fluid leaks anywhere.......obviously
it's no longer a British car! It's a Triota or a Triissan. 

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan Differential
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From TR6UO at aol.com  Thu May  1 21:26:56 2008
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 23:26:56 EDT
Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs
Message-ID: <cff.2e8ad32c.354be400@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/1/2008 1:24:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:

Yea,  Any additional info would be cool. My brother got some at Auto Zone 
that only  shot straight out, and they looked terrible, so he took them back. I 
assume  you mean these shoot out light in all directions.  

thanks,
Sloane :)



Sloane,
Yeah, these have diodes all the way around the "bulb". I found out that the  
1157 LEDs in question are manufactured for the heavy truck industry, but are  
made with the standard base or wedge-base design, so will work on any such  
application. You can see a picture of the 1156 version of the 360 degree LED at  
the following website: _http://heavy-dutylighting.com/_ 
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/)                      _http://heavy-dutylighting.com/_ 
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/) 
 
They come in white, amber and red. My brother was told that even though he  
was using the 1157 behind a red lens, he would have the best result  with the 
red LED. They're also less expensive than the amber or white, as red is  the 
natural color for LEDs and they're less expensive to manufacture. He got  them 
at "The Lighthouse" in Sacramento: 800-340-8216. I think they also have a  
location in Oakland or Hayward, CA
> 
>  Steve




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Thu May  1 21:29:53 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Thu, 1 May 2008 23:29:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] On the Road Again........
In-Reply-To: <002701c8ac01$37164410$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCCEMBGDAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Bob,

I'd suggest you carry an oil can and give a few squirts wherever you park.
The only thing that doesn't even seep on my car is the Nissan differential!

Rick

> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Bob Danielson
> Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 11:04 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] On the Road Again........
>
>
> Well folks......I got the car back on the road
> again...............just the
> basics, tranny tunnel and driver's seat! Noisy, dirty, smelly
> from manifold
> paint and anti-seize but running! The hydraulic clutch feels
> great........... it reminds me of my last Audi......light and
> smooth. The 5
> speed tranny slides into gear so easily though I need to learn
> where 3rd is!
> The Nissan diff is smooth and quiet too..... Well, I really won't know how
> quiet everything is until I get the whole interior back together. But for
> now everything is great. There's some updates on my site but I
> need to work
> on the 5 speed section. We had a couple of starts and stops and
> start overs
> there! Oh yea...........and there's no fluid leaks
> anywhere.......obviously
> it's no longer a British car! It's a Triota or a Triissan.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan Differential
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as patton at suscom-maine.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive

From Lizirbydavis at cs.com  Fri May  2 05:31:32 2008
From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com (Lizirbydavis at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 07:31:32 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
Message-ID: <c85.2622917e.354c5594@cs.com>

I bought a used engine with very few miles on it from upstate New York.  The 
car had been stored outside (what was I thinking!)  The block was cracked 
between Piston #3 and #4 on the manifold side
Joe   

From Lizirbydavis at cs.com  Fri May  2 05:37:41 2008
From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com (Lizirbydavis at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 07:37:41 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
Message-ID: <bfc.349421a1.354c5705@cs.com>

btw, the freeze plugs were intact...go figure,  I was told that during a long 
deep freeze (Saratoga New York), the engine will freeze and thaw at different 
rates, somehow this predisposes the block to failures not protected by freeze 
plugs
Joe   

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri May  2 06:59:31 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 08:59:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] On the Road Again........
References: <002701c8ac01$37164410$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <008001c8ac54$5e09f3c0$0200a8c0@Desktop>

Well that's grate.....but that poor neighborhood
Wow know more e-mails I like it
NEXT

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 11:04 PM
Subject: [6pack] On the Road Again........


> Well folks......I got the car back on the road again...............just 
> the
> basics, tranny tunnel and driver's seat! Noisy, dirty, smelly from 
> manifold
> paint and anti-seize but running! The hydraulic clutch feels
> great........... it reminds me of my last Audi......light and smooth. The 
> 5
> speed tranny slides into gear so easily though I need to learn where 3rd 
> is!
> The Nissan diff is smooth and quiet too..... Well, I really won't know how
> quiet everything is until I get the whole interior back together. But for
> now everything is great. There's some updates on my site but I need to 
> work
> on the 5 speed section. We had a couple of starts and stops and start 
> overs
> there! Oh yea...........and there's no fluid leaks 
> anywhere.......obviously
> it's no longer a British car! It's a Triota or a Triissan.
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection,
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan Differential
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Fri May  2 07:10:00 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 09:10:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
References: <bfc.349421a1.354c5705@cs.com>
Message-ID: <008301c8ac55$d404c860$c7fba8c0@hp>

Not a surprise as what some of you are calling freeze plugs are really core
plugs and are there to get the casting sand out of the motor when they are
poured.... they are not there to protect the motor from freezing...  Now they
will pop out if the block freezes but they are not there to stop the block
from cracking...  Bob  M
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com
  To: rgperry at earthlink.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 7:37 AM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water


  btw, the freeze plugs were intact...go figure,  I was told that during a
long
  deep freeze (Saratoga New York), the engine will freeze and thaw at
different
  rates, somehow this predisposes the block to failures not protected by
freeze
  plugs
  Joe

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Fri May  2 07:40:52 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 08:40:52 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
Message-ID: <14336380.1209735652328.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

   Joe,
   I  have  not  lived up north, so I don't know about the harsh winters.
   After  some  sleep,  I  remember  that  an  old used car lot salesman/
   /mechanic  bought some 59 Cadillacs for restoration from up north.  He
   discovered  several  years  later  that the blocks were cracked due to
   freezing.   Now  I'm  interested as to where this thread goes.  Thanks
   for the response,  Greg Perry
   Subject: Re: [6pack] Engine cracks from freezing water
   btw, the freeze plugs were intact...go figure,  I was told that during
   a  long  deep  freeze  (Saratoga New York), the engine will freeze and
   thaw  at  different  rates,  somehow  this  predisposes  the  block to
   failures not protected by freeze plugs  Joe

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May  2 07:59:11 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 9:59:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs
Message-ID: <6716427.123671209736751811.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web23-z02>

Not sure if these are those [http://snipurl.com/26skb] but, at $6.99 each, they don't come cheap!

Dave


---- TR6UO at aol.com wrote: 
> In a message dated 5/1/2008 1:24:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
> im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:
> 
> Yea,  Any additional info would be cool. My brother got some at Auto Zone 
> that only  shot straight out, and they looked terrible, so he took them back. I 
> assume  you mean these shoot out light in all directions.  
> 
> thanks,
> Sloane :)
> 
> 
> 
> Sloane,
> Yeah, these have diodes all the way around the "bulb". I found out that the  
> 1157 LEDs in question are manufactured for the heavy truck industry, but are  
> made with the standard base or wedge-base design, so will work on any such  
> application. You can see a picture of the 1156 version of the 360 degree LED at  
> the following website: _http://heavy-dutylighting.com/_ 
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/)                      _http://heavy-dutylighting.com/_ 
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/) 
>  
> They come in white, amber and red. My brother was told that even though he  
> was using the 1157 behind a red lens, he would have the best result  with the 
> red LED. They're also less expensive than the amber or white, as red is  the 
> natural color for LEDs and they're less expensive to manufacture. He got  them 
> at "The Lighthouse" in Sacramento: 800-340-8216. I think they also have a  
> location in Oakland or Hayward, CA
> > 
> >  Steve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
> favorites at AOL Food.      
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May  2 08:50:30 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 10:50:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Replacing exhaust gasket
In-Reply-To: <20080501233259.FNMD3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
References: <20080501.191208.164.0.otral@juno.com>
	<20080501233259.FNMD3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805021048320.4083@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 1 May 2008, Jeff Scarbrough wrote:

> At 07:12 PM 5/1/2008, alan g graffam wrote:
>
>> Does anyone have advise on how to do this job and not get too frustrated?
>
> In general:
>
> !.  Soak everything in PB Blaster or equivalent...
>
> 2.  Let it soak for a while, then apply more.

Good advice.

Also - an impact gun is great for busting things loose, but sometimes it 
just busts things, so you need to be ready to replace the studs and nuts. 
I usually buy all the fasteners for the job up front. That way I'm 
"prepared". Seems to work.

[stuff deleted]

> studs.  When reassembling, copper anti-seize is your friend.

AMEN!

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May  2 09:16:24 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 11:16:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs
Message-ID: <9854650.136501209741385152.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web23-z02>

One of the eBay websites for 1157 LED bulbs says: "A variable load turn signal flasher is required to use this LED for turn signal applications. If your vehicle does not have a variable load turn signal flasher a load equalizer will be needed and are available at most auto part stores."

Is the stock TR6 flasher unit a "variable load" variety or would that need to be something to install to replace the stock item?

Dave

---- TR6UO at aol.com wrote: 
> In a message dated 5/1/2008 1:24:48 PM Pacific Daylight Time,  
> im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:
> 
> Yea,  Any additional info would be cool. My brother got some at Auto Zone 
> that only  shot straight out, and they looked terrible, so he took them back. I 
> assume  you mean these shoot out light in all directions.  
> 
> thanks,
> Sloane :)
> 
> 
> 
> Sloane,
> Yeah, these have diodes all the way around the "bulb". I found out that the  
> 1157 LEDs in question are manufactured for the heavy truck industry, but are  
> made with the standard base or wedge-base design, so will work on any such  
> application. You can see a picture of the 1156 version of the 360 degree LED at  
> the following website: _http://heavy-dutylighting.com/_ 
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/)                      _http://heavy-dutylighting.com/_ 
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/) 
>  
> They come in white, amber and red. My brother was told that even though he  
> was using the 1157 behind a red lens, he would have the best result  with the 
> red LED. They're also less expensive than the amber or white, as red is  the 
> natural color for LEDs and they're less expensive to manufacture. He got  them 
> at "The Lighthouse" in Sacramento: 800-340-8216. I think they also have a  
> location in Oakland or Hayward, CA
> > 
> >  Steve
> 
> 
> 
> 
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
> favorites at AOL Food.      
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From TR6UO at aol.com  Fri May  2 10:27:37 2008
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 12:27:37 EDT
Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs
Message-ID: <cb2.2f2957c0.354c9af9@aol.com>

HD Lighting version:

    Standard Base / Single Contact Bulb -  White  1156 Style Direct
Replacement  LED Bulb
Related Products:  _Standard  Base / Single Contact Bulb - Amber -
#HD1156YSD_ (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a2E8EB9E0E)
_Standard  Base / Two Contact Bulb - Amber - #HD1157YSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aFB26DAAD0)   _Standard
Base / Two Contact Bulb -
Red - #HD1157RSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aA0F950DB4)   _Wedge
Base / Single Contact Bulb - Amber - #HD3156YSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a27B28BAD5)   _Wedge
Base / Single
Contact Bulb - White - #HD3156WSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aAADE9C099)   _Wedge
Base / Two Contact Bulb - Amber -
#HD3157YSD_ (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a308B41EC7)
_Wedge
 Base / Two Contact Bulb - Red - #HD3157RSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aB25D287E1)   _Wedge
Base / Two Contact Bulb - White -
#HD3157WSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aF117A5579)   Technical
Specifications:  LED's - 13 Super Duty  Square Diodes
Width - 0.93"
Height - 2.0"
Voltage Range -  7.5 - 14VDC  Additional  Features:  For aftermarket use. May
not comply with  SAE or U.S. DOT standards. Perfect replacement for most*
incandescent  vehicle lighting. Fit standard vehicle sockets. Super bright
3600
light  dispersion design.
*Resistor Statement:
Since LED bulbs draw much  less current then standard incandescent bulbs some
vehicle computers may  think a bulb is out. If installing LED bulbs in your
car, truck or  motorcycle causes your blinkers to blink fast or causes other
electrical  problems, it may be necessary to install a load resistor to
correct
these  problems.
*Thermal Flasher:
LED brake/tail lamps may not work with  some older thermal flasher units. An
LED brake/tail lamp will require an  electronic flasher/blinker unit which is
commonly available at your local  auto parts store.




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
favorites at AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri May  2 11:34:27 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 13:34:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs
Message-ID: <29658239.158581209749668063.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web23-z02>

Thanks. These, of course, are wedge-based lamps, requiring replacement of the
connectors/sockets as well, to accommodate them.

Also, an electronic flasher is required, it says (in lieu of our thermal
flashers)  and there are many types available.

http://www.tricoproducts.com/index.cfm?location_id=129

Dave

---- TR6UO at aol.com wrote:
> HD Lighting version:
>
>     Standard Base / Single Contact Bulb -  White  1156 Style Direct
> Replacement  LED Bulb
> Related Products:  _Standard  Base / Single Contact Bulb - Amber -
> #HD1156YSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a2E8EB9E0E)
> _Standard  Base / Two Contact Bulb - Amber - #HD1157YSD_
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aFB26DAAD0)
_Standard  Base / Two Contact Bulb -
> Red - #HD1157RSD_
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aA0F950DB4)   _Wedge
Base / Single Contact Bulb - Amber - #HD3156YSD_
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a27B28BAD5)   _Wedge
Base / Single
> Contact Bulb - White - #HD3156WSD_
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aAADE9C099)   _Wedge
Base / Two Contact Bulb - Amber -
> #HD3157YSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a308B41EC7)   _Wedge
>  Base / Two Contact Bulb - Red - #HD3157RSD_
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aB25D287E1)   _Wedge
Base / Two Contact Bulb - White -
> #HD3157WSD_
> (http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aF117A5579)
Technical  Specifications:  LED's - 13 Super Duty  Square Diodes
> Width - 0.93"
> Height - 2.0"
> Voltage Range -  7.5 - 14VDC  Additional  Features:  For aftermarket use.
May
> not comply with  SAE or U.S. DOT standards. Perfect replacement for most*
> incandescent  vehicle lighting. Fit standard vehicle sockets. Super bright
360B0
> light  dispersion design.
> *Resistor Statement:
> Since LED bulbs draw much  less current then standard incandescent bulbs
some
> vehicle computers may  think a bulb is out. If installing LED bulbs in your
> car, truck or  motorcycle causes your blinkers to blink fast or causes other
> electrical  problems, it may be necessary to install a load resistor to
correct
> these  problems.
> *Thermal Flasher:
> LED brake/tail lamps may not work with  some older thermal flasher units. An
> LED brake/tail lamp will require an  electronic flasher/blinker unit which
is
> commonly available at your local  auto parts store.
>
>
>
>
> **************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family
> favorites at AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Fri May  2 13:18:53 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 15:18:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?
In-Reply-To: <000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net>,
	<000601c8abbb$3345b6e0$6a1f10ac@garage.local>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF4A9BF3AA@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

If I don't miss my bet, this is an Austin Healey.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net
[6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Oliver [sumton at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Thursday, May 01, 2008 2:42 PM
To: TR list; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] what is this car?

saw this car in an ad (oh, yeah, i think there's a woman in it too)

anyone I D this car?

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From TR6UO at aol.com  Fri May  2 13:31:25 2008
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 15:31:25 EDT
Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs
Message-ID: <c08.36c0668f.354cc60d@aol.com>

HD has wedge-based that are direct replacements for the incandescent  
wedge-based bulbs. I'm also told
that on some applications the front incandescent bulbs create enough heat  to 
activate the thermal flasher.



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri May  2 14:26:07 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 15:26:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
References: <c72.2fb07f38.354ca2c4@aol.com> <481B7654.1080705@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>

tolerance, my friend.

my 72 tr6 and my 73 mgb were, in fact, made by the same company.

in fact, they share some common parts.

i also know that the mgb dizzy is the same as on a spitfire.

but you may be happy to know that the mg people feel the same about you . . 
.

those of us that cross over do it very quietly.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Joe Burlein" <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
To: <BearTranserv at aol.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 3:15 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker


> An MGB?!?!??!  Burn Him!
>
> ;-)

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri May  2 14:30:41 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 20:30:41 +0000
Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs
In-Reply-To: <29658239.158581209749668063.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web23-z02>
References: <29658239.158581209749668063.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web23-z02>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W34A4A97DC9C132B538D2858EDA0@phx.gbl>

Hey guys,
All I'm thinking about replacing are the tail/brake lights. The amber turn
signals are bright enough, and I don't want to freak out the flasher. It's
those dim brake lights that worry me at night. I bought some on Ebay this
afternoon, so I'll let you know how I like them. Just be sure you get the 360
degree ones.

Sloane :)
69-Six> Also, an electronic flasher is required, it says (in lieu of our
thermal flashers) and there are many types available.> >
http://www.tricoproducts.com/index.cfm?location_id=129> > Dave> > ----
TR6UO at aol.com wrote: > > HD Lighting version:> > > > Standard Base / Single
Contact Bulb - White 1156 Style Direct > > Replacement LED Bulb> > Related
Products: _Standard Base / Single Contact Bulb - Amber - > > #HD1156YSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a2E8EB9E0E) > >
_Standard Base / Two Contact Bulb - Amber - #HD1157YSD_ > >
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aFB26DAAD0) _Standard
Base / Two Contact Bulb - > > Red - #HD1157RSD_ > >
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aA0F950DB4) _Wedge Base
/ Single Contact Bulb - Amber - #HD3156YSD_ > >
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a27B28BAD5) _Wedge Base
/ Single > > Contact Bulb - White - #HD3156WSD_ > >
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aAADE9C099) _Wedge Base
/ Two Contact Bulb - Amber - > > #HD3157YSD_
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=a308B41EC7) _Wedge > >
Base / Two Contact Bulb - Red - #HD3157RSD_ > >
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aB25D287E1) _Wedge Base
/ Two Contact Bulb - White - > > #HD3157WSD_ > >
(http://heavy-dutylighting.com/product_detail.php?uuid=aF117A5579) Technical
Specifications: LED's - 13 Super Duty Square Diodes
_________________________________________________________________
Back to work after babyhow do you know when youre ready?
http://lifestyle.msn.com/familyandparenting/articleNW.aspx?cp-documentid=5797
498&ocid=T067MSN40A0701A

From j.honor at comcast.net  Fri May  2 14:36:26 2008
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 20:36:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tr6 oil change
Message-ID: <050220082036.22187.481B7B4A00091156000056AB22007510909D01020108D206@comcast.net>

OK driving season, memory- best engine oil? grade type-thanks; engine has 4K since new rings pretty tight etc Thanks!.

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri May  2 14:43:16 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 20:43:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] tr6 oil change
In-Reply-To: <050220082036.22187.481B7B4A00091156000056AB22007510909D01020108D206@comcast.net>
References: <050220082036.22187.481B7B4A00091156000056AB22007510909D01020108D206@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W190E90EEDF4159DC88A8008EDA0@phx.gbl>

Oh, wouldn't you rather discuss religion or politics? (haha)

Dozens of emails/opinions to follow...  hang on.... :)

Sloane :)
69-Six> From: j.honor at comcast.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Fri, 2 May
2008 20:36:26 +0000> Subject: [6pack] tr6 oil change> > OK driving season,
memory- best engine oil? grade type-thanks; engine has 4K since new rings
pretty tight etc Thanks!.
_________________________________________________________________
Back to work after babyhow do you know when youre ready?
http://lifestyle.msn.com/familyandparenting/articleNW.aspx?cp-documentid=5797
498&ocid=T067MSN40A0701A

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri May  2 16:40:00 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 23:40:00 +0100
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
References: <c72.2fb07f38.354ca2c4@aol.com> <481B7654.1080705@earthlink.net>
	<000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>
Message-ID: <04c101c8aca5$74fb0b90$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I love MG's  no matter how old or young. Spent a fun day a few weeks back with a friend who owns a 
'73 MGB Roadster. We did about 200 miles in the day and both drove it. If I had the space (and the 
available cash) I wouldn't hesitate to have a B or a Midget as well as the PI and short-term 
Spitfire - but the Midget would have to have the 'A' series engine.

Jon (traitor in the camp) Mac
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 9:26 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker


> tolerance, my friend.
>
> my 72 tr6 and my 73 mgb were, in fact, made by the same company.
>
> in fact, they share some common parts.
>
> i also know that the mgb dizzy is the same as on a spitfire.
>
> but you may be happy to know that the mg people feel the same about you . .
> .
>
> those of us that cross over do it very quietly.
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Joe Burlein" <supertr6 at earthlink.net>
> To: <BearTranserv at aol.com>
> Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 3:15 PM
> Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker
>
>
>> An MGB?!?!??!  Burn Him!
>>
>> ;-)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com 

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Fri May  2 17:50:07 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Fri, 2 May 2008 16:50:07 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
In-Reply-To: <000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB3C@main.RSC.local>

<those of us that cross over do it very quietly>

Don't even think of telling either camp that you own a TR6 and a wedge.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6 (former owner of a TR7 and married to a former MGB owner)

From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Fri May  2 17:49:20 2008
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Fri, 02 May 2008 16:49:20 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
References: <c72.2fb07f38.354ca2c4@aol.com> <481B7654.1080705@earthlink.net>
	<000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>
	<04c101c8aca5$74fb0b90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <001501c8acaf$24ca6f80$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>

Jon,

The more the merrier, I say.  The first sports car I drove was an MGA and it 
was a thrill for a sixteen-year-old who had lived and breathed sports cars 
for the previous four years.  Not a lot of power, but the gearbox was a 
snick-snick affair and the sound was delightful.  This particular example 
felt like the whole thing was of one piece and the steering was light and 
fast.  The interior had the wonderful aroma of leather, and maybe eau d'oil 
as well.

Come to think of it, the first sports car I ever noticed was the red MGA of 
my much older sister's fianci that was parked out in front of our house. 
This was on a summer day in the nineteen fifties, and he had the tonneau 
cover in place over the passenger's side so that the concentration of exotic 
leather smell wafting from the open driver's side was overwhelming.  While 
sitting on my bicycle seat and peering inside, I recall thinking that this 
vehicle was about as foreign, and obtainable, as a spaceship.  Jon, I'm glad 
you mentioned the MG's.


Gary
'73



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Macartney" <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
To: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 3:40 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker


>I love MG's  no matter how old or young. Spent a fun day a few weeks back 
>with a friend who owns a
> '73 MGB Roadster. We did about 200 miles in the day and both drove it. If 
> I had the space (and the
> available cash) I wouldn't hesitate to have a B or a Midget as well as the 
> PI and short-term
> Spitfire - but the Midget would have to have the 'A' series engine.
>
> Jon (traitor in the camp) Mac

From motrv8d at hotmail.com  Fri May  2 19:13:05 2008
From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 01:13:05 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB3C@main.RSC.local>
References: <000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB3C@main.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <BAY138-W23FB86F17E20F8A1D0F5E5E1D50@phx.gbl>

Had to jump in here. I have always been, always will be a TR6 nut. Have owned
15 to date, and currently have 2. However, I have to say, after having 5 MGBs,
by a pretty large margin, the 72 MGB that I did the Olds 215 V8 conversion to
was more fun than any TR6 I've ever had. Sold it when I bought my first XJS
convertible for the garage space. Wish I hadn't. > Date: Fri, 2 May 2008
16:50:07 -0700> From: rclark at robertsonclark.com> To: sumton at sbcglobal.net;
6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Blank
Window Sticker> > <those of us that cross over do it very quietly>> > Don't
even think of telling either camp that you own a TR6 and a wedge.> > Bob
Clark> '69 TR6 (former owner of a TR7 and married to a former MGB owner)>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as motrv8d at hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob
ile_052008

From tr6 at pipeline.com  Sat May  3 04:55:17 2008
From: tr6 at pipeline.com (Ronald Olds)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 06:55:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal
In-Reply-To: <ccf.2d9bd8a4.3547214c@cs.com>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAuAAAAAAAAAGR0/UN+345Oi0ESU7rmM4wBAITr15KniR9MuVqf/6yjAv4AAAFImMEAABAAAABVkg58SaapSKeerbSxKAVqAQAAAAA=@pipeline.com>

Please put me on the list for the Miata seat brackets.

Thanks,
Ron Olds
72 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
N197TR4 at cs.com
Sent: Monday, April 28, 2008 8:47 AM
To: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: vinttr4 at geneseo.net
Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal

> Count me in Joe (and Jack)!
> 
> I've already got the Miata seats, so the timing is great for me.
> 
> Raymond
> 
----------------------------------------------------------------------------
--
-----------------------------------
6 Pack List

Thanks everyone! Jack should be back shortly from New York. Information has 
been gathered on other designs and Jack has the Miata seats in his gorgeous
TR6.

These designs can be refined for production. 25-50 'kits' would make for an 
economical production run, based on past experience. Seems like there is a 
market for at least that range.

This wont happen right away, because there are race engines to assembly and 
some places to go, in the short term. But it can happen. All of the
resources 
are in place. 

I cant speak for Jack's time, but I'll help when I can. I'll summarize the 
list of candidates so far....sometime soon. If there are more, jump in now.

Joe Alexander   </HTML>
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6 at pipeline.com

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat May  3 08:24:52 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 10:24:52 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal
Message-ID: <bfa.137286cc.354dcfb4@cs.com>

Please put me on the list for the Miata seat brackets.

Thanks,
Ron Olds
72 TR6

Thanks Ron!   Progress is being made on the design by Uncle Jack...

Joe A   </HTML>

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Sat May  3 09:22:06 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 11:22:06 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
Message-ID: <be5.2e218b44.354ddd1e@aol.com>

ahhh yes, grasshopper!  I have many fond memories from the  two MGBs I owned 
many years ago....one had reclining seats:)
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
In a message dated 5/2/2008 1:31:05 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
sumton at sbcglobal.net writes:

those of  us that cross over do it very  quietly




**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat May  3 09:44:54 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 11:44:54 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car
Message-ID: <cdc.2977ebdd.354de276@cs.com>

"ahhh yes, grasshopper!  I have many fond memories from the  two MGBs I owned 
many years ago....one had reclining seats:)

Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd."
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
----------------------------------
Chip, I think I know of which you speak...

In college I once double dated in a MGA.  I was the one on the luggage rack.

My MG TD was not the date place to be at a Drive In Movie or most any other 
place in 1960.  (And I was varsity wrestling agile at 137 lbs)   Joe

> 
> 

   </HTML>

From triosan at gmail.com  Sat May  3 11:13:13 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 10:13:13 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Glass for hardtop
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805031013j4d76a79eif527e6a7767d715e@mail.gmail.com>

Saw someone indicate a blank shell was available.  I have a set of windows
available if anyone is interested.  The rear one for sure is no longer
available.  Will be putting them on Ebay soon, so if any one on the lists is
interested let me know.

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat May  3 14:21:24 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 15:21:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car
References: <cdc.2977ebdd.354de276@cs.com>
	<BLU143-W255C3C3F438C9F6254A12EA5D50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <003301c8ad5b$fefd6e30$8215a8c0@garage.local>

and ??????????
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: John Herrera
  To: n197tr4 at cs.com ; chip19474 at aol.com ; sumton at sbcglobal.net ;
6pack at autox.team.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 11:39 AM
  Subject: RE: [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car


  > Chip, I think I know of which you speak...
  >
  > In college I once double dated in a MGA. I was the one on the luggage
rack.
  >
  > My MG TD was not the date place to be at a Drive In Movie or most any
other
  > place in 1960. (And I was varsity wrestling agile at 137 lbs) Joe


  An MGB is a chick magnet.

  I know this because my MGB broke down so much I struck up a friendship with
the Counter Girl at the local Foreign Car parts store. We started dating after
she found me the only MGB tag light in North America.

  John H.

From Thomas at timper.org  Sat May  3 15:03:37 2008
From: Thomas at timper.org (Thomas Byron Timper)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 23:03:37 +0200
Subject: [6pack] Blower/ supercharger - Eaton - TR4A
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAEdaQAR4optMvgMu0BBDhrLCgAAAEAAAAKqpx4ZamtJEvjbrU4LG51kBAAAAAA==@timper.org>

Hi everyone!

I have been offered a blower without the tubing and whatever will be needed.
Sounds like an interesting project. But of course a hard nut to crack. 

Any ideas or comments? 

Timper
Denmark



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.8/1412 - Release Date: 02-05-2008
16:34

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat May  3 18:33:52 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 3 May 2008 20:33:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Blower/ supercharger - Eaton - TR4A
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAEdaQAR4optMvgMu0BBDhrLCgAAAEAAAAKqpx4ZamtJEvjbrU4LG51kBAAAAAA==@timper.org>
References: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAYAAAAAAAAAEdaQAR4optMvgMu0BBDhrLCgAAAEAAAAKqpx4ZamtJEvjbrU4LG51kBAAAAAA==@timper.org>
Message-ID: <001901c8ad7e$89227340$210110ac@bobspc>

Timper,
Here's Rick Patton's Supercharger conversion that you might want to look at
to give you some ideas:  http://www.topshamautoparts.com/tr6/

He's running an Eaton M62 supercharger


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Thomas Byron Timper
Sent: Saturday, May 03, 2008 5:04 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Blower/ supercharger - Eaton - TR4A

Hi everyone!

I have been offered a blower without the tubing and whatever will be needed.
Sounds like an interesting project. But of course a hard nut to crack. 

Any ideas or comments? 

Timper
Denmark



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.8/1412 - Release Date: 02-05-2008
16:34
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.8/1412 - Release Date: 5/2/2008
4:34 PM

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat May  3 19:19:58 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 21:19:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Correct yellow zinc calipers
Message-ID: <481D0F3E.2030302@snet.net>

    I need to replace my front calipers(16PB) with either new or rebuilt 
units.  Does anyone know who supplies them with the correct yellow zinc 
coating rather than painted.  Thanks  John Mitchell   76  TR6

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat May  3 19:38:23 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 03 May 2008 21:38:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Correct yellow zinc calipers
Message-ID: <04C1985F.2C251794.00159EE9@cs.com>

i routinely have components plated in yellow zinc. this may be your easiest route, even though it might mean dismantling and assembling again.

just an idea....joe a 

>    I need to replace my front calipers(16PB) with either new or rebuilt 
>units.  Does anyone know who supplies them with the correct yellow zinc 
>coating rather than painted.  Thanks  John Mitchell   76  TR6
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From j.honor at comcast.net  Sat May  3 21:11:31 2008
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 04 May 2008 03:11:31 +0000
Subject: [6pack] surprise barake problem
Message-ID: <050420080311.27166.481D29630008B89200006A1E22007340769D01020108D206@comcast.net>

well after starting my winter dormant 74-tr6-started right up-good news, test dribve discovered upon test braking a grinding noise and slight pull to right from front left brake; wasn't there-I swear last fal when tucked away! haven't torn it open-but any suspect ideas? no grinding when moving kust when strong braking- visual doesn't show any obvious damge. will keep you updated upon surgery.

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Sun May  4 04:46:54 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 05:46:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] surprise barake problem
Message-ID: <410-22008504104654450@earthlink.net>

This does not surprise me. You don't say what part of the country you live,
but here in Minnesota the winters are long and a car in unheated storage is
susceptible to repeated doses of condensation. I suspect your noise and
stronger than normal braking will return to normal after a few miles on the
road.
We had one club members car with a front wheel that would not even turn at
the same time the clutch would not release. Both troubles were fixed by
getting enough volunteers to push the car from its winter hiding place.
After a short drive he was smiling again.

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN     .


> Subject: [6pack] surprise barake problem
>
> well after starting my winter dormant 74-tr6-started right up-good news,
test dribve discovered upon test braking a grinding noise and slight pull
to right from front left brake; wasn't there-I swear last fal when tucked
away! haven't torn it open-but any suspect ideas? no grinding when moving
kust when strong braking- visual doesn't show any obvious damge. will keep
you updated upon surgery.

From racegt6 at yahoo.com  Sun May  4 07:28:08 2008
From: racegt6 at yahoo.com (Charlie Schlismann)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 06:28:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Correct yellow zinc calipers
In-Reply-To: <481D0F3E.2030302@snet.net>
Message-ID: <959945.69066.qm@web30804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>     I need to replace my front calipers(16PB) with
> either new or rebuilt 
> units.  Does anyone know who supplies them with the
> correct yellow zinc 
> coating rather than painted.  Thanks  John Mitchell 
>  76  TR6


John,
A few years back, I bought a set (rebuilt?)for our '74
TR6 from Ted Schumacher at TSI.  IIRC, they were
yellow zinc. 
HTH,
Charlie


#71 MiDiv F500

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun May  4 07:38:36 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 09:38:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Correct yellow zinc calipers
In-Reply-To: <959945.69066.qm@web30804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <481D0F3E.2030302@snet.net>
	<959945.69066.qm@web30804.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001001c8adec$2890e250$6601a8c0@Robert>

>     I need to replace my front calipers(16PB) with
> either new or rebuilt 
> units.  Does anyone know who supplies them with the
> correct yellow zinc 
> coating rather than painted.  Thanks  John Mitchell 
>  76  TR6


John,
A few years back, I bought a set (rebuilt?)for our '74
TR6 from Ted Schumacher at TSI.  IIRC, they were
yellow zinc. 
HTH,
Charlie



I heard that the paint was a system to identify  that if calipers were zinc
yellow then they were new. If painted silver they were rebuilds. Maybe I am
wrong (who me?)? Anyone substantiate that fact?

From triosan at gmail.com  Sun May  4 10:11:50 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 09:11:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Glass for hardtop
In-Reply-To: <481CA429.2000205@earthlink.net>
References: <8cbd782d0805031013j4d76a79eif527e6a7767d715e@mail.gmail.com>
	<481CA429.2000205@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805040911t77cade69u316a57d8978a3544@mail.gmail.com>

Joe,
You were first to respond.  It is a TR6.  Make an offer if you want.
Shipping from Seattle.
Chuck

On Sat, May 3, 2008 at 10:43 AM, Joe Burlein <supertr6 at earthlink.net> wrote:

> Chuck,
>
> What car?  If it is for TR6 and in good shape, please, let me know.
>
> Joe
>
>
> Chuck Arnold wrote:
>
> > Saw someone indicate a blank shell was available.  I have a set of
> > windows
> > available if anyone is interested.  The rear one for sure is no longer
> > available.  Will be putting them on Ebay soon, so if any one on the
> > lists is
> > interested let me know.
> >
> >
> >
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May  4 12:37:08 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 14:37:08 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase
Message-ID: <c39.2e8e4d86.354f5c54@cs.com>

75teer6 at gmail.com writes:


> Has anyone fabricated brackets that mount the Miata Seats on the TR6
> Seat Runners, and have measured drawings to share?
> 
> Henri
> 1975 TR5
> -----------------------------------------------------------------------------
> -----------------------------------------
Henri,   The design is progressing and expected to be finished next weekend, 
by Jack Drews (Uncle Jack)  Then my son and I are going to look at the design 
for best manufacturing processes.  I think Jack will release a Bracket KIT 
order based on the level of interest. These will be done on production equipment 
and likely be ready to ship within 6-8 Weeks.

If there is anyone else contemplating a conversion to Miata Seats, let us 
know. What about in the the Ranks of TR4s and more?

Thanks...Uncle Jack & Joe  (Team Deere-Retired)
     </HTML>

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun May  4 16:23:45 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 15:23:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Down Memory Lane-Social Interaction In a Sports car
In-Reply-To: <BLU143-W171289D1CF85678E2AC365A5D40@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <608085.60216.qm@web82808.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

but - we're all curious.  why did she throw you out?  were you heart broken?  and where is she now?  still behind the same parts counter?????
   
  actually, we're writing a book. . . .

John Herrera <jrherrera90 at hotmail.com> wrote:
      .hmmessage P  {  margin:0px;  padding:0px  }  body.hmmessage  {  FONT-SIZE: 10pt;  FONT-FAMILY:Tahoma  }    > An MGB is a chick magnet.
> 
> I know this because my MGB broke down so much I struck up a friendship with
> the Counter Girl at the local Foreign Car parts store. We started dating after
> she found me the only MGB tag light in North America.
> 
> John H.

Oliver asks:
> and ??????????
 
 
Not sure what you're asking, Oliver.
 
And.... we were together for eight years and.... then she threw me out....
 
And... it's mildly humorous to refer to a car as a chick magnet because it broke down so much I got to know the Parts Girl well... Not worth a belly laugh or guffaw, but maybe a slight smile or chuckle.
 
And... it's also mildly humorous to me that finding parts for a guy is a way to seduce him...
 
That's all I can think of. Maybe no one here shares my sense of humor!
 
John H.

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sun May  4 17:26:26 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 16:26:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!
Message-ID: <200805042326.m44NQQE3023155@upsa-web109.ofoto.com>

I had engine run-on issues prior to my restoration project, so while the engine was on the stand, I pulled the head to look for carbon deposits on top of the pistons.  I found significant deposits on five of the six.  I used to run an external oil feed but stopped after going through oil at a fast rate (ring problem?).  When I removed the oil feed, oil consumption was greatly reduced but my run on problem was present.  What remedy do I have available to a) clean the pistons and b) prevent the problem from happening again.  I'm assuming that if my engine is put together and broken in correctly, the external oil feed should not contribute to additional oil consumption.  BTW, the engine was rebuilt in late 2005 with new pistons, rings, bearings, etc for .030 over bore. 
Thanks in advance for advice you can share.
Andy


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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon May  5 01:01:50 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 00:01:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!
In-Reply-To: apackard68@comcast.net's message of Sun, 4 May 2008
	16:26:26 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <16381-481EB0DE-6947@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>

Andy--- If removing the external oil feed line to the rockers reduced
the oil consumption, then oil is, or was going down the valve guides.
You didn't mention if these were renewed when the rest of the engine was
overhauled in '05. If not, then this could be in order. While the head
is off, disconnect a couple of the valves and see if you can move the
stems from side to side. I would compare the valves where the deposit
was heaviest, to the piston where it is the lightest, to see if there's
a difference in looseness.
 There is data on the amount as shown in the Bentley Manual. (I think
it's .020 max.)

It is  not  easy to clean off the carbon deposits that have formed on
the piston tops. You don't want the hard carbon from flying into places
where it could lodge and later harm a running engine. Obviously it's
better to remove the pistons for this chore.  (This is what I did and
used a hand drill motor and a three inch brass rotary brush)

I have tried different methods of softening and soaking this carbon with
little success. (Dams of lacquer thinner, gasket remover, etc) Wooden
spatulas were useless.

I don't know if removing this carbon will stop the run-on you are
experiencing. Having a working anti run-on valve, as in the later TRs,
is the best solution. Short of that, keep the engine idle speed as low
as possible.

Dick

 From: apackard68 at comcast.net

I had engine run-on issues prior to my restoration project, so while the
engine was on the stand, I pulled the head to look for carbon deposits
on top of the pistons. I found significant deposits on five of the six.
I used to run an external oil feed but stopped after going through oil
at a fast rate (ring problem?). When I removed the oil feed, oil
consumption was greatly reduced but my run on problem was present. 

What remedy do I have available to a) clean the pistons and b) prevent
the problem from happening again. I'm assuming that if my engine is put
together and broken in correctly, the external oil feed should not
contribute to additional oil consumption. BTW, the engine was rebuilt in
late 2005 with new pistons, rings, bearings, etc for .030 over bore.
Thanks in advance for advice you can share. 
Andy 

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Mon May  5 06:54:34 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 07:54:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!
Message-ID: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net>

I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the distant
past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection to
eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner
assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the
carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was the
steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston tops.
The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He reported
that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone.

Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions?

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN     .


> Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!
>
> I had engine run-on issues prior to my restoration project, so while the
engine was on the stand, I pulled the head to look for carbon deposits on
top of the pistons.  I found significant deposits on five of the six.  I
used to run an external oil feed but stopped after going through oil at a
fast rate (ring problem?).  When I removed the oil feed, oil consumption
was greatly reduced but my run on problem was present.  What remedy do I
have available to a) clean the pistons and b) prevent the problem from
happening again.  I'm assuming that if my engine is put together and broken
in correctly, the external oil feed should not contribute to additional oil
consumption.  BTW, the engine was rebuilt in late 2005 with new pistons,
rings, bearings, etc for .030 over bore. 
> Thanks in advance for advice you can share.
> Andy

From peb3 at cornell.edu  Mon May  5 07:22:33 2008
From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 09:22:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] trailing arm studs
Message-ID: <p06230900c444b9e1b6bd@[128.84.47.176]>

What is the threading of the holes tapped in the trailing arm to 
secure the hub? I can't recall if it's 1/4-20 or 1/4-28. I want to 
put in Heli-coils, but I don't want to get the wrong bits.

TIA,
-- 
Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu)
Keeneyville, PA
'71 TR6  CC61193L (31 year owner)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May  5 08:19:57 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 07:19:57 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
In-Reply-To: <04c101c8aca5$74fb0b90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <c72.2fb07f38.354ca2c4@aol.com>
	<481B7654.1080705@earthlink.net><000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>
	<04c101c8aca5$74fb0b90$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B57B6D@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Jon Mac:

	At the risk of being off topic, I must say that the A-series
engine is a rather cool little lump. I have a mini that I just finished
giving the David Vizard treatment. Transformed it into an amped up chain
saw of an engine. Too much power for the chassis, and I went very mild
on the cam (260 degrees). Yeee-haaaw!

	Driving a Mini in the US is too fun. The women flock to it like
bees to honey.
	"Ohhhh. How cuuute! What kind of car is that?"
	"Why it's a real Mini. I would be happy to buy you a cup of
coffee and take you for a spin..."
	You get the idea. Park it in front of the local Starbucks and I
am flirting with divorce within 60 seconds. It's a good thing my wife
won't get in it, much less drive to Starbucks with me.

	BTW, I wish I had read all this stuff before I worked on the
TR6. I was very happy with the TR6 when it was done, but with a little
more knowledge I could have made the TR6 really snarl. Its nothing a
little more money and time won't fix, however  =:-o

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Macartney
Sent: Friday, May 02, 2008 3:40 PM
To: Oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker

I love MG's  no matter how old or young. Spent a fun day a few weeks
back with a friend who owns a
'73 MGB Roadster. We did about 200 miles in the day and both drove it.
If I had the space (and the
available cash) I wouldn't hesitate to have a B or a Midget as well as
the PI and short-term
Spitfire - but the Midget would have to have the 'A' series engine.

Jon (traitor in the camp) Mac

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon May  5 08:33:22 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:33:22 +0000
Subject: [6pack] previous question about oil
Message-ID: <BLU118-W41177D96B81A7779353F5B8ED70@phx.gbl>

Hey guys,
Someone had asked a serious question about recomendations about oil brand &
weight, which I sort of derailed with a smart-ass reply. For that I appologize
since it may have shamed everybody out of replying. (haha)

I always use Castrol 20W50, but have been trying to follow the whole
disappearing zinc issue as I've just learned I have flat tappets, but have
never seen them. I know there are dozens of opinions about oil and we could
all get way too wordy about it. I remember long ago someone saying that our
1940's 'Standard tractor' engines were designed for 20W50 and it was advised
to stay with it, but I never realized that the Castrol formula would change
over the years.

So, could someone give a brief run-down of the accepted truths about what oils
we should run?

thanks, and sorry again for derailing that thread.
Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack
1.
http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May  5 08:32:49 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 10:32:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] trailing arm studs
In-Reply-To: <p06230900c444b9e1b6bd@[128.84.47.176]>
References: <p06230900c444b9e1b6bd@[128.84.47.176]>
Message-ID: <000501c8aebc$e6c8c0a0$210110ac@bobspc>

Phil,
They're 5/16-24. I didn't use Heli-coil due to the need for their special
drill. I went to McMaster Carr and got Keen-Serts, though McMaster doesn't
use their trade name. Do a search on "key locking threaded inserts" and
you'll get to them. No special drill needed, simple to install and they
really lock in place. You can see the TA stud that I did here:
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/InsertScrewing.jpg

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ForumImages/InsertIn.jpg



Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Philip E. Barnes
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 9:23 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] trailing arm studs

What is the threading of the holes tapped in the trailing arm to secure the
hub? I can't recall if it's 1/4-20 or 1/4-28. I want to put in Heli-coils,
but I don't want to get the wrong bits.

TIA,
--
Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu)
Keeneyville, PA
'71 TR6  CC61193L (31 year owner)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
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From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon May  5 08:41:37 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:41:37 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase
In-Reply-To: <c39.2e8e4d86.354f5c54@cs.com>
References: <c39.2e8e4d86.354f5c54@cs.com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W3147A49801EE4AB463740F8ED70@phx.gbl>

Joe,

I think an interesting question for the group would be this. Other than this
list, what is the best way to let the TR community know about these becoming
available? Before you knew about this list, where did you look first for
similar information?

Also, has an estimated cost ever been mentioned? I can't remember.

Sloane :)
69-Six> From: N197TR4 at cs.com> Date: Sun, 4 May 2008 14:37:08 -0400> To:
75teer6 at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net> CC:
seanax at iowalaser.com; vinttr4 at geneseo.net> Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket
Kit in Design Phase> > 75teer6 at gmail.com writes:> > >
----------------------------------------------------------------------------->
> -----------------------------------------> If there is anyone else
contemplating a conversion to Miata Seats, let us > know. What about in the
the Ranks of TR4s and more?> > Thanks...Uncle Jack & Joe (Team Deere-Retired)>
</HTML>> _______________________________________________>
_________________________________________________________________
Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack
1.
http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Mon May  5 08:42:33 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:42:33 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] Wit's end!
Message-ID: <7266716.1209998553157.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>

First, I know that it is next to impossible to diagnose electricals 
over the internet...

Situation:  Completely new wiring harnesses-  all of them, main, rear, 
and OD.  New relays, new nearly everything.

All seems to be working well except that when I honk the horn, it will 
not quit!  It is silent until I make the circuit at the sterring wheel, 
then it honks.  I break the circuit, but horn continues to blow, until 
I disconnect the battery.

This is a cheap aftermarket air horn-  could it be shorted out 
internally?  It is one thing in the system that is not new, and I was 
having this problem before the new wiring.  I have checked the horn 
button to relay circuit- it seems to be behaving as designed.

HELP!
Kevin

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Mon May  5 08:52:04 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 10:52:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Miata Seat Bracket Kit in Design Phase
Message-ID: <6AABCB30.21BA0D5A.00159EE9@cs.com>

aha! good timing.

we hear from mr. cronin that it has been done the the UK. he also reports that it may require reversing the locations of the seats.

he would like to this and we have put his name on the list

at the moment it appears that the kit (rh & lh) would likely follow the seats, but this has not been fully explored and proven.

Miata seats in a TR3! comfort and style...and affordable.

would you like your name on the list?

uncle jack & joe 

>
>Will Miata seats fit in a TR3A?
>
>Best regards,
>Tom
>
>
>
>_________________________________________________________________
>Get Free (PRODUCT) REDb" B Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
>http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008=

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Mon May  5 08:54:10 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 10:54:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wit's end!
References: <7266716.1209998553157.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <040c01c8aebf$e0844310$c7fba8c0@hp>

Kevin,, You might have a bad horn relay or have it wired up wrong...  Some
relays are designed that you can wire them so that once you tell it to turn on
it then continuals to supply power to the relay coil and keeps it on..  Sounds
like your problem...  did this relay come with the horn???  Bob M
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Dr L. Kevin McNelis
  To: 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 10:42 AM
  Subject: [6pack] Wit's end!


  First, I know that it is next to impossible to diagnose electricals
  over the internet...

  Situation:  Completely new wiring harnesses-  all of them, main, rear,
  and OD.  New relays, new nearly everything.

  All seems to be working well except that when I honk the horn, it will
  not quit!  It is silent until I make the circuit at the sterring wheel,
  then it honks.  I break the circuit, but horn continues to blow, until
  I disconnect the battery.

  This is a cheap aftermarket air horn-  could it be shorted out
  internally?  It is one thing in the system that is not new, and I was
  having this problem before the new wiring.  I have checked the horn
  button to relay circuit- it seems to be behaving as designed.

  HELP!
  Kevin

From j.honor at comcast.net  Mon May  5 08:56:29 2008
From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 14:56:29 +0000
Subject: [6pack] new clutch flywhhel
Message-ID: <050520081456.17820.481F201D0000AD410000459C22092299279D01020108D206@comcast.net>

as I am going to start the driving season in my garage! want new clutch-recall thoughts-many!- in TRF miracle clutch kit with gunst and ligtened flywheel ideas- engine rebuilt-top/bottom 2K miles ago so pretty strong, aluminum wheel or machings? open to all-of course ideas,opinion, you know.Thanks!

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May  5 09:04:28 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 11:04:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wit's end!
In-Reply-To: <7266716.1209998553157.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
References: <7266716.1209998553157.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <001001c8aec1$52b90f00$210110ac@bobspc>

Kevin,
Have you taken it apart at the steering wheel and checked where the contact
is made at the horn ring? I have an aftermarket steering wheel from Grant
and had a similar problem where the horn went off when I made a turn. This
was my fix http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HornRepair.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dr L. Kevin McNelis
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 10:43 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Wit's end!

First, I know that it is next to impossible to diagnose electricals over the
internet...

Situation:  Completely new wiring harnesses-  all of them, main, rear, and
OD.  New relays, new nearly everything.

All seems to be working well except that when I honk the horn, it will not
quit!  It is silent until I make the circuit at the sterring wheel, then it
honks.  I break the circuit, but horn continues to blow, until I disconnect
the battery.

This is a cheap aftermarket air horn-  could it be shorted out internally?
It is one thing in the system that is not new, and I was having this problem
before the new wiring.  I have checked the horn button to relay circuit- it
seems to be behaving as designed.

HELP!
Kevin
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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12:31 PM

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon May  5 09:08:27 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 11:08:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] trailing arm studs
In-Reply-To: <p06230900c444b9e1b6bd@[128.84.47.176]>
References: <p06230900c444b9e1b6bd@[128.84.47.176]>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805051104360.1758@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 5 May 2008, Philip E. Barnes wrote:

> What is the threading of the holes tapped in the trailing arm to
> secure the hub? I can't recall if it's 1/4-20 or 1/4-28. I want to
> put in Heli-coils, but I don't want to get the wrong bits.

Stock 5/16-24

You can convert to 5/16-18, but you have to buy new studs and you _may_ 
have to grind them down a bit to clear the hub flange. I've used studs 
that are course threat on one end and fine on the other for this job. 
Those are hardware store / auto parts counter common parts (the 
course/fine combo studs)

> TIA,
> -- 
> Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu)
> Keeneyville, PA
> '71 TR6  CC61193L (31 year owner)

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May  5 09:40:21 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:40:21 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!
In-Reply-To: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net>
References: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B57C3A@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Greg:

	This is valid. The superheated steam makes a nice cleaning
agent, and water injection is also a way to reduce knocking and increase
power. It recovers a great deal of otherwise wasted thermal energy from
the combustion process. The problem is that superheated steam is very
corrosive, so long term durability is problematic. But as a one shot
cleaning treatment, it works and is cheap.
	If you are struggling with run on, this MAY help but it is more
likely that the problem lies elsewhere. Incorrect mixture, idle speed
and ignition timing are more likely to be the culprits. If your car is
equipped with an anti-run on circuit, you should make sure it is working
properly too. Run on is more of a problem as the compression ratio is
raised, so modified engines have more of a problem than stock ones.
	Carbon residue can glow and act as an ignition source, so this
can be a problem, but a well tuned car will *generally* not have this
problem.

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Greg Gelhar
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 5:55 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs
Subject: Re: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please
help!

I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the
distant
past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection to
eliminate this problem.

<snip>

Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions?

Greg Gelhar

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May  5 09:50:43 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 08:50:43 -0700
Subject: [6pack] trailing arm studs
In-Reply-To: <p06230900c444b9e1b6bd@[128.84.47.176]>
References: <p06230900c444b9e1b6bd@[128.84.47.176]>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B57C6C@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Phil:

	No need to buy a special drill bit. I have a drill bit set that
goes in 1/64" (1/16 through 3/8) and I just use the closest undersize
drill that I have. Aluminum is so soft that the tap will remove any
excess metal for you. What I often find is that if I have pulled the
threads out and need to repair them, the stripped hole is so close to
the correct size that I can simply run the heli-coil tap in without
drilling at all.
	Yes, it is ghetto repair work at its finest, no I have not had
any problems with it.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Philip E. Barnes
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 6:23 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] trailing arm studs

What is the threading of the holes tapped in the trailing arm to
secure the hub? I can't recall if it's 1/4-20 or 1/4-28. I want to
put in Heli-coils, but I don't want to get the wrong bits.

TIA,
--
Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu)
Keeneyville, PA
'71 TR6  CC61193L (31 year owner)

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Mon May  5 12:05:24 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 13:05:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Wit's end!
Message-ID: <20080505180524.21659.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>

I think you have discovered the future of computing ... this is how we can overcome the limitations of Moore's Law ... the first non-electrical/electronic latch.  Just think how computing would advance if we didn't have to worry about electrons, spin, poloarity and all those other matters than complicate nanoscale electronics ... we just use Lucas electrical principles and everything is solved, with the added bonus that we can trap smoke in any wires that happen to be around for later distribution when we want some excitement!

On the actual problem front ... although a relay is supposed to be an electrically energised switch, some relays will act as a latch when the current passed is sufficient to generate a maganetic field strong to hold the relay closed.  I have seen this phenomenon at work in voltage regulators and in pinball machines but not in TR6's so you still might have an invention that will make you millions ....

**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************


>  -------Original Message-------
>  From: Dr L. Kevin McNelis <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
>  Subject: [6pack] Wit's end!
>  Sent: May 05 '08 09:42
>  
>  First, I know that it is next to impossible to diagnose electricals
>  over the internet...
>  
>  Situation:  Completely new wiring harnesses-  all of them, main, rear,
>  and OD.  New relays, new nearly everything.
>  
>  All seems to be working well except that when I honk the horn, it will
>  not quit!  It is silent until I make the circuit at the sterring wheel,
>  then it honks.  I break the circuit, but horn continues to blow, until
>  I disconnect the battery.
>  
>  This is a cheap aftermarket air horn-  could it be shorted out
>  internally?  It is one thing in the system that is not new, and I was
>  having this problem before the new wiring.  I have checked the horn
>  button to relay circuit- it seems to be behaving as designed.
>  
>  HELP!
>  Kevin
>  _______________________________________________

From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com  Mon May  5 12:36:43 2008
From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 11:36:43 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Looking for chrome frame for rh taillight assy
Message-ID: <883772.56795.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Folks,

I can't seem to find these @ the big 3 or e-bay. Anyone have a decent condition (can buff out w/ white rouge) one that they'll part with? Any other suggestions? Name your price.

It's the chrome surround for the right side tail light assembly.

Thanks,

Pete

CF38421U

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May  5 14:58:44 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 13:58:44 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB3C@main.RSC.local>
References: <000301c8ac92$c20ffed0$ce0b0a0a@garage.local>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB3C@main.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B58174@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Folks:

	I gather that someone has artwork for a TR6 window sticker. Is
this artwork available for weenies like me to cobble up a fake window
sticker for my car, or is there some double secret ritual in which I
must participate to obtain said artwork?
	Can I download it from somewhere?

	Thanks,

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May  5 15:13:46 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 14:13:46 -0700
Subject: [6pack] new clutch flywhhel
In-Reply-To: <050520081456.17820.481F201D0000AD410000459C22092299279D01020108D206@comcast.net>
References: <050520081456.17820.481F201D0000AD410000459C22092299279D01020108D206@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B581C1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	j.:

	The miracle clutch kit will do wonders for the feel of your
clutch, but it is not a guarantee of never having another problem. For
one, the dreaded fork pin can still break - so whatever you do I
recommend cross drilling and either pinning or bolting the fork to the
cross shaft.
	You can also have the infamous "digital clutch" where you get
little or no take up, and then suddenly BOOM the clutch is fully
released. This is due to the front cover on the tranny being rough, so
polish the front cover with emery cloth and use a dab of copper slip or
anti seize on the cover. Also, chamfer the inner lip of the bearing
carrier so that it cannot "dig in" on the front cover.
	As you can see, it is detailed preparation that makes for a
reliable clutch, rather than some magic kit. So whether you go stock or
Magic, make sure all the details are attended to when installing the
clutch. Also, always use a new bearing and replace the fork pin when
servicing the clutch.
	As for the flywheel, machining your stock flywheel is much
cheaper but not as high performance. I opted for machined rather than
aluminum, but that is because I am cheap.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of j.honor at comcast.net
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 7:56 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] new clutch flywhhel

as I am going to start the driving season in my garage! want new
clutch-recall thoughts-many!- in TRF miracle clutch kit with gunst and
ligtened flywheel ideas- engine rebuilt-top/bottom 2K miles ago so
pretty strong, aluminum wheel or machings? open to all-of course
ideas,opinion, you know.Thanks!

From otral at juno.com  Mon May  5 16:16:48 2008
From: otral at juno.com (alan g graffam)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 18:16:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing exhaust gasket
Message-ID: <20080505.181648.3752.0.otral@juno.com>

>From the advice I've received on what to do with replacing this gasket I
think I'll let my mechanic tackle this one.  I will still have a frosty
adult beverage while I watch the Celtics play Cleveland...go Boston!!!

Alan Graffam formerly from ME, NH, IL IN and now in CT where I will die
at my home after working on my TR6 on the driveway hopefully not on my
back looking up at my undercarriage...age 62. What a way to go!

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon May  5 17:24:06 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 16:24:06 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!
In-Reply-To: "Greg Gelhar" <ggelhar@earthlink.net>'s message of Mon, 5
	May 2008 07:54:34 -0500
Message-ID: <4809-481F9716-942@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>

 Greg----I have also read at least one article about the results of
"steam cleaning" the combustion area. Since I already have a working
water injection system, I gave it a try. I was already going to do a
rebore, so any damage that might have resulted from breaking loose the
carbon could be later dealt with.
A mixture of soapy water and isopropyl alcohol was run thru the intake
manifold until the pump had emptied two quarts of water. (About 5
minutes with my injection nozzle) This with an engine speed of around
2,000rpm.  Lots of dirty water came out the exhaust pipes, but when
later removing the head, found the piston tops to be firmly holding onto
elixar of carbon. 

The only way I would now believe this process to work would be to see a
"before and after" look at this area.

I will admit that I never did have a run-on issue, so it could be that
this process could remove some sharp corners that were holding carbon.
So far as cleaning off the pistons tops...nope!
 
Dick

Greg wrote:
I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the
distant past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection
to eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner
assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the
carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was
the steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston
tops. The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He
reported that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone. 

Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions? 
Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
______________________________________________

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon May  5 21:22:31 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 20:22:31 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Carbon/run-on/octane rating
References: <4809-481F9716-942@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <006601c8af28$6baad6d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

I had a run-on problem and started using premium gas.
Run-on went away. Car is a '71. I have not checked the compression and I
don't know if there is any carbon buildup on the pistons.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: <ggelhar at earthlink.net>
Cc: "triumphs" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 4:24 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!


> Greg----I have also read at least one article about the results of
> "steam cleaning" the combustion area. Since I already have a working
> water injection system, I gave it a try. I was already going to do a
> rebore, so any damage that might have resulted from breaking loose the
> carbon could be later dealt with.
> A mixture of soapy water and isopropyl alcohol was run thru the intake
> manifold until the pump had emptied two quarts of water. (About 5
> minutes with my injection nozzle) This with an engine speed of around
> 2,000rpm.  Lots of dirty water came out the exhaust pipes, but when
> later removing the head, found the piston tops to be firmly holding onto
> elixar of carbon.
>
> The only way I would now believe this process to work would be to see a
> "before and after" look at this area.
>
> I will admit that I never did have a run-on issue, so it could be that
> this process could remove some sharp corners that were holding carbon.
> So far as cleaning off the pistons tops...nope!
>
> Dick
>
> Greg wrote:
> I was re-reading an article printed in a club newsletter from the
> distant past about an old time mechanic who recommended water injection
> to eliminate this problem. His technique was to remove the air cleaner
> assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the
> carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM. The premise was
> the steam generated by the water would clear the carbon from the piston
> tops. The amount of water was regulated as to not stall the engine. He
> reported that after this treatment the run-on problems were gone.
>
> Does anyone have any thoughts to the validity of his actions?
> Greg Gelhar
> 1973 TR6
> ______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May  5 18:54:45 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 20:54:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts
Message-ID: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc>

OK... I'm trying to get the back up lights to work with the Toyota 5 speed.
The tranny has 2 contacts, the TR6 has 2 leads (G & G/N). G is switched hot
and G/N goes to back up lights. Connect it all up, put it in reverse, turn
on the key and nada. Continuity test on switch is good. Voltage test on
leads shows power. Decide to connect G & G/N together to see if lights come
on. What comes on is the right side back up light and the right side brake
light. Go back to hooking it to switch and nothing again. After way more
time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can you or am I the
only dummy?

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Mon May  5 19:07:34 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 21:07:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts
References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <061601c8af15$917a1410$c7fba8c0@hp>

Seeing that it's Japanese I would think the switch on the trans is the ground
for the back up lights and the green one is one side and the green/brown is
the other side?????  Bob M
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:54 PM
  Subject: [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts


  OK... I'm trying to get the back up lights to work with the Toyota 5 speed.
  The tranny has 2 contacts, the TR6 has 2 leads (G & G/N). G is switched hot
  and G/N goes to back up lights. Connect it all up, put it in reverse, turn
  on the key and nada. Continuity test on switch is good. Voltage test on
  leads shows power. Decide to connect G & G/N together to see if lights come
  on. What comes on is the right side back up light and the right side brake
  light. Go back to hooking it to switch and nothing again. After way more
  time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can you or am I the
  only dummy?

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com


  --
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.8/1415 - Release Date: 5/5/2008
6:01 AM

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon May  5 19:34:23 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 05 May 2008 21:34:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please
 help!
In-Reply-To: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net>
References: <410-22008515125434580@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <20080506013723.OAQJ4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 08:54 AM 5/5/2008, you wrote:
>  His technique was to remove the air cleaner
>assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the
>carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM.

I've heard of the water trick...Back in the day, we used to dribble 
automatic transmission fluid down the carb to solve similar 
problems.  Wonderfully thick clouds of smoke ensued.

More recently (late 70s) when I was a Schmieraffe at a VW dealer, we 
used to use Army surplus gun-cleaning fluid to solve single-cylinder 
low compression problems in water-cooled cars.  If you had three good 
and one around 80 or so, you would disconnect the coil and put a 
squirt of fluid in that cylinder, then turn the engine over for a 
minute or so.  90% of the time, it would come right up near the rest.

Of course, I wouldn't recommend ~any~ of these tricks today.  Plenty 
of things to go wrong, and it's a lot harder to fix when it does.  I 
do recall an approved method of decoking with a wooden scraper on the 
pistons in situ.

YMMV...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon May  5 19:42:12 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 21:42:12 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts
Message-ID: <d1c.22e2b67e.35511174@aol.com>

Ummm. . I got it!  Drive only in the daytime?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon May  5 19:56:17 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 18:56:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please
 help!
Message-ID: <367022.72797.qm@web82606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The dudes on the Audi forums seem to think that 'Seafoam' can cure just about anything that's wrong with an engine. They claim that it cleans up oil sludge, breaks down carbon build up... basically anything. I'm not really buying into it, and I think the placebo effect applies in spades! The magic formula to solve all woes is apparently..

1 Can in the fuel tank
1/2 Can in the crankcase (for only a few miles?)
1/2 Can sucked into the intake via a vaccum line. (this step produces tons of smoke)

search on youtube for footage of chuckleheads driving around the their neighborhoods spewing tons of smoke.

Kendall


----- Original Message ----

At 08:54 AM 5/5/2008, you wrote:
>  His technique was to remove the air cleaner
>assembly and use a pump-up garden sprayer and spray water into the
>carburetor while the engine was operating at 2000 RPM.

I've heard of the water trick...Back in the day, we used to dribble 
automatic transmission fluid down the carb to solve similar 
problems.  Wonderfully thick clouds of smoke ensued.

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon May  5 20:00:37 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 5 May 2008 22:00:37 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please help!
Message-ID: <d03.3265d88d.355115c5@aol.com>

Years ago I had an experience that would deter me from ever trying  this.  I 
had an early SAAB Turbo maybe 81 as I recall, and in the early  years the 
snout for the air cleaner pointed down  in an attempt to draw  cooler air.  Well, 
I was living on Cape Cod at the time in Pocasset and  there was (is) a roadway 
that went under a railroad bridge and in order for the  road to do so it 
dipped down considerably under the bridge and came up on the  other side.  One 
night as I was leaving my favorite bar in a horrendous  downpour I drove under 
this bridge with the wipers going fast and squinting  ahead to see the road.  
The drain under the railroad bridge plugged up with  junk and a reasonable pond 
had formed.  I got out and surveyed the  water and decided it was ok to drive 
through.  It wasn't all that deep but  the car made a wake that made it to the 
snout of the air cleaner.  I  suddenly became aware of a knocking so I drove 
home and slept it off.  The  next morning I found I had a bent connecting rod 
as an amount of water made it  up the snout and water does not compress!
I would be careful how much water goes in the intake.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Tue May  6 06:31:25 2008
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 08:31:25 -0400 
Subject: [6pack] Differential Pinion shaft seal
Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C0450B@uscancisnt05.instron.com>

An update and a question, I am in the middle of refurbishing the rear end of my TR6 with the intention of replacing the trailing arm bushings and differential seals.  As expected, the rust was worse than anticipated and I've now cut-out and cleaned and have prepped 8 new 16 gauge patch panels to
weld in.  Found a guy down the road who welds and will come over and put them all in for $100, cash of course.  That seems like the best approach as I'm a bad welder and worse on my back in tight quarters.  All the associated rear end parts have been cleaned and painted so they are ready to go but I
have a question on the reassembly of the differential pinion seal.  When I took out the pinion seal, there appeared to be some type of funny washer or spacer either behind the seal or it was part of the seal.  Couldn't quite tell because I had the mangle the seal so bad to get it out.  This is not a
flat washer but wavy or almost correlated and aligned in the Z direction.  TRF doesn't show this in the catalog but does talk about a spacer.  Any help is appreciated because I'm getting ready to start the reassembly and hoping to finish in the next 5-6 weeks.  Thanks

 

Darcy Hunter 

'73 TR6

North Easton, MA

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue May  6 07:41:05 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 13:41:05 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts
In-Reply-To: <061601c8af15$917a1410$c7fba8c0@hp>
References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<061601c8af15$917a1410$c7fba8c0@hp>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W36FC9B24581277BF4985F98ED60@phx.gbl>

Are you putting it in reverse, or 5th?

Sloane :)
69-Six

 After way more> time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can you
or am I the> only dummy?> > Bob Danielson> 1975 TR6 CF38503U> Running w/
Throttle Body Injection> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD>
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com> > > --> No virus found in this
incoming message.> Checked by AVG.> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database:
269.23.8/1415 - Release Date: 5/5/2008> 6:01 AM>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as im_sloane at hotmail.com
_________________________________________________________________
Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack
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From superchargedtr6 at gmail.com  Tue May  6 08:16:27 2008
From: superchargedtr6 at gmail.com (superchargedtr6 at gmail.com)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:16:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Slow windshield wipers
Message-ID: <001001c8af83$c6dd5630$0600a8c0@SETH>

Hey List,

My windshield wipers operate very slowly and I've lived with this up to now.
I'm planning a trip bnack up to NY with my "6" in June and really need to get
this problem fixed.

Is it a motor going bad or is there something else that needs to be looked at
or adjusted?

Thanks in advance

oh yea, one other thing, the TRials will be outstanding this year as we have
in East Tenn some of the BEST roads for driving our Triumphs. Do not miss this
one!

Best Regards,
Seth
'76 (Supercharged) TR6

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Tue May  6 08:13:16 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:13:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts
References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc><061601c8af15$917a1410$c7fba8c0@hp>
	<BLU118-W36FC9B24581277BF4985F98ED60@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <019a01c8af83$54713120$0200a8c0@Desktop>

Hmm........good question.......no he is putting it R for race



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "im sloane" <im_sloane at hotmail.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 9:41 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts


> Are you putting it in reverse, or 5th?
>
> Sloane :)
> 69-Six
>
> After way more> time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can 
> you
> or am I the> only dummy?> > Bob Danielson> 1975 TR6 CF38503U> Running w/
> Throttle Body Injection> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD>
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > 
> http://www.team.net/archive> >
> You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com> > > --> No virus found in this
> incoming message.> Checked by AVG.> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database:
> 269.23.8/1415 - Release Date: 5/5/2008> 6:01 AM>
> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
> http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > 
> http://www.team.net/archive> >
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May  6 08:21:11 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:21:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts
In-Reply-To: <ADC2F84EB9FC40D3AFCF79F0669041AD@KENTECHHP>
References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<ADC2F84EB9FC40D3AFCF79F0669041AD@KENTECHHP>
Message-ID: <000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc>

What this turned out to be was a bad bulb. The back up light bulb on the
driver side was bad and once I replaced it, everything worked fine. So that
begs the question: Does having a bad bulb create a "back feed" of some sort
that caused the passenger side brake light to come on? It was a frustrating
hour or so of testing and checking that ended up being something very
simple. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Peter Kennison [mailto:peterk0219 at verizon.net] 
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 AM
To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts

 
Bob, I am using that switch on my 3A HVDA for B/U. Simple SPST switch. Run
power to one side, the other goes to the grounded light. Put an Ohm meter
across the switch contacts and shifter in reverse if you need to test the
switch.

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]
Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:55 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts

OK... I'm trying to get the back up lights to work with the Toyota 5 speed.
The tranny has 2 contacts, the TR6 has 2 leads (G & G/N). G is switched hot
and G/N goes to back up lights. Connect it all up, put it in reverse, turn
on the key and nada. Continuity test on switch is good. Voltage test on
leads shows power. Decide to connect G & G/N together to see if lights come
on. What comes on is the right side back up light and the right side brake
light. Go back to hooking it to switch and nothing again. After way more
time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can you or am I the
only dummy?

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1416 - Release Date: 5/5/2008
5:11 PM

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Tue May  6 08:27:37 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:27:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts
References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc><ADC2F84EB9FC40D3AFCF79F0669041AD@KENTECHHP>
	<000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <07b001c8af85$558882a0$c7fba8c0@hp>

I would look for a bad ground if you are getting back feeding.....  Bob M
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Cc: danmas at aol.com
  Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 10:21 AM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts


  What this turned out to be was a bad bulb. The back up light bulb on the
  driver side was bad and once I replaced it, everything worked fine. So that
  begs the question: Does having a bad bulb create a "back feed" of some sort
  that caused the passenger side brake light to come on? It was a frustrating
  hour or so of testing and checking that ended up being something very
  simple.

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Peter Kennison [mailto:peterk0219 at verizon.net]
  Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:41 AM
  To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Subject: RE: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts


  Bob, I am using that switch on my 3A HVDA for B/U. Simple SPST switch. Run
  power to one side, the other goes to the grounded light. Put an Ohm meter
  across the switch contacts and shifter in reverse if you need to test the
  switch.

  -----Original Message-----
  From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]
  Sent: Monday, May 05, 2008 8:55 PM
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Subject: [TR] Electrical Question/Test....of sorts

  OK... I'm trying to get the back up lights to work with the Toyota 5 speed.
  The tranny has 2 contacts, the TR6 has 2 leads (G & G/N). G is switched hot
  and G/N goes to back up lights. Connect it all up, put it in reverse, turn
  on the key and nada. Continuity test on switch is good. Voltage test on
  leads shows power. Decide to connect G & G/N together to see if lights come
  on. What comes on is the right side back up light and the right side brake
  light. Go back to hooking it to switch and nothing again. After way more
  time than I care to admit, I finally figured it out. Can you or am I the
  only dummy?

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1416 - Release Date: 5/5/2008
  5:11 PM
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com


  --
  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1417 - Release Date: 5/6/2008
8:07 AM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue May  6 09:42:23 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 08:42:23 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Slow windshield wipers
In-Reply-To: <001001c8af83$c6dd5630$0600a8c0@SETH>
References: <001001c8af83$c6dd5630$0600a8c0@SETH>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B587ED@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Seth:

	Mine were slow too. Try removing, cleaning and greasing the
wiper rack. Then disassemble, clean, and grease the transmission in the
wiper motor housing. Use a light grease, lithium or some such on both
the rack and transmission.
	If that does not do it, then you are looking at replacing the
wiper wheel boxes, which is a tedious job. You must remove the dash, and
then open the access plates on the scuttle to remove and replace them.
Straight forward, but be prepared to wonder if God really intended for
TR6s to have wipers in the first place.
	The wiper motor is surprisingly hardy, if a bit undersized for
the job - so it is unlikely to be the culprit. However, Lucas the prince
of darkness is totally capricious in his moods, so anything is possible.

	Remember, DON'T LET THE SMOKE LEAK OUT OF THE MOTOR.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of superchargedtr6 at gmail.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 7:16 AM
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Slow windshield wipers

Hey List,

My windshield wipers operate very slowly and I've lived with this up to
now.
I'm planning a trip bnack up to NY with my "6" in June and really need
to get
this problem fixed.

Is it a motor going bad or is there something else that needs to be
looked at
or adjusted?

Thanks in advance

<snip>

Best Regards,
Seth

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue May  6 09:50:49 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 10:50:49 -0500
Subject: [6pack] where do these go?
References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc><ADC2F84EB9FC40D3AFCF79F0669041AD@KENTECHHP><000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc>
	<07b001c8af85$558882a0$c7fba8c0@hp>
Message-ID: <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local>

These were in my spare parts bin.  does anyone know on what vehicle they 
belong?

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ 

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Tue May  6 10:02:54 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:02:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] where do these go?
In-Reply-To: <005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local>
References: <000001c8af13$c8ce93c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<ADC2F84EB9FC40D3AFCF79F0669041AD@KENTECHHP>
	<000801c8af84$720f5350$210110ac@bobspc>
	<07b001c8af85$558882a0$c7fba8c0@hp>
	<005401c8af90$f71aa890$8215a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <e343023f0805060902w444de192j150017ee371150e8@mail.gmail.com>

Those are gas powered, rocket propelled passenger seat ejection devices with
a built-in brake cylinder.
Bob


On 5/6/08, Oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> These were in my spare parts bin.  does anyone know on what vehicle they
> belong?
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com

From dncullig at us.ibm.com  Tue May  6 10:46:10 2008
From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:46:10 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Slow wipers
Message-ID: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com>

Seth wrote:
>My windshield wipers operate very slowly...

They are slow even on the higher speed or do you
not have 2-speed wipers like my '76 TR6?  Heck,
I didn't know I had 2 wiper speeds until years
after I bought the car...

Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Tue May  6 10:54:46 2008
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:54:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Slow wipers
In-Reply-To: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com>
References: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com>
Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0D@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>

 Slow or non-working wipers are a safety feature.  Dr. Lucas' way of
telling you it's not safe to drive these cars in the rain!



NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential
information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have
received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit,
disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the
sender that you have received this communication in error, and delete the copy
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IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required
to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment
hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties
imposed under the Internal Revenue Code.

Thank you.

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Tue May  6 10:59:46 2008
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 12:59:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] picture/where do they go
Message-ID: <0CA344B1DB74467AA81A936660100AC6@randyPC>

oliver,
they appear to be rear brake cylinders, removing the rubber band and 'brass 
cap' will expose the piston end.
randy sandner 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May  6 11:07:45 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 13:07:45 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Slow wipers
In-Reply-To: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0D@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>
References: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com>
	<82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0D@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805061307030.17149@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 6 May 2008, Steinman, Bill wrote:

> Slow or non-working wipers are a safety feature.  Dr. Lucas' way of
> telling you it's not safe to drive these cars in the rain!



I was going to reply, but I couldn't think of anything that wasn't 
sarcastic.

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Tue May  6 11:40:00 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 13:40:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Slow wipers
References: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com><82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0D@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805061307030.17149@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <082f01c8afa0$356f1680$c7fba8c0@hp>

I just can't believe that you guys would trust driving your TR-6's in the
rain... I don't even take mine out after dark let alone in the rain.......I
know better than to make Dr Lucas mad at me........by asking him to do his
job...............Bob M

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue May  6 12:04:05 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 14:04:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Waterproofing door panels
Message-ID: <18114525.657911210097046048.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>

I am about to put new door panels on the inside of my '74 my Six's doors. The old water curtains are long gone. What have people done to replace these or found a more effective way to protect the car and the panels themselves from rain? I supposeI could mount plastic sheeting to the back of the panels before inserting clips into them.... Any better ideas out there?

Dave

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue May  6 12:32:52 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 11:32:52 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Differential Pinion shaft seal
In-Reply-To: "Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter@Instron.com>'s message of
	Tue, 6 May 2008 08:31:25 -0400
Message-ID: <17661-4820A454-8585@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net>

Darcy---I don't think there is a spacer in the cavity where the seal
resides. I must've been part of the seal, as there is no need of a
spacer here. This seal will stay put after inserting.

Dick

 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com(Hunter, Darcy)

An update and a question, I am in the middle of refurbishing the rear
end of my TR6 with the intention of replacing the trailing arm bushings
and differential seals. As expected, the rust was worse than anticipated
and I've now cut-out and cleaned and have prepped 8 new 16 gauge patch
panels to weld in. Found a guy down the road who welds and will come
over and put them all in for $100, cash of course. That seems like the
best approach as I'm a bad welder and worse on my back in tight
quarters. All the associated rear end parts have been cleaned and
painted so they are ready to go but I have a question on the reassembly
of the differential pinion seal.

 When I took out the pinion seal, there appeared to be some type of
funny washer or spacer either behind the seal or it was part of the
seal. Couldn't quite tell because I had the mangle the seal so bad to
get it out. This is not a flat washer but wavy or almost correlated and
aligned in the Z direction. TRF doesn't show this in the catalog but
does talk about a spacer. Any help is appreciated because I'm getting
ready to start the reassembly and hoping to finish in the next 5-6
weeks. Thanks
Darcy Hunter
'73 TR6
North Easton, MA
______________________________________

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue May  6 15:09:58 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 14:09:58 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] BACK UP LIGHT PROBLEM
Message-ID: <297034.42584.qm@web51411.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

   Bob,

   I agree with the suggestion that your problem is probably related to a
   bad ground,  I soldered a pigtail to the ground side of each of the
   light receptacles on each side of my rear lights.  I then crimped an O
   type connector on the other end and attached it to the stud that holds
   the light on.  The problem I had was that the parking lights worked
   fine but when I hit the brakes nothing worked.  I guess this problem
   is probably due to corrosion, the fading of the chrome finish that
   conducts the ground from each receptacle to the body and the mysteries
   of Lucas Electric.  Wonder why they never thought to add that extra
   ground wire to this stuff like everyone else did?

   Mike Lunsford
     _________________________________________________________________

   Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try
   it now.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue May  6 15:14:12 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 6 May 2008 14:14:12 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Waterproofing door panels
In-Reply-To: <18114525.657911210097046048.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
References: <18114525.657911210097046048.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B9241E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Dave:

	I wanted the moisture barrier to be easily replaced and to fully
protect the trim panel. The original rain curtains let too much water
past, eventually staining and warping the interior trim panel. My method
was to use some never setting rope caulk, 1/8", from the hardware store.
I pre cut a piece of polyethylene sheet using the door panel as a
template. I then applied a line of the rope caulk to the perimeter of
the inside face of the door, and attached the poly by pressing it firmly
against the rope caulk. The rope caulk is just tacky enough that this
works very well.
	I could then install the door trim panel over the poly sheet. If
I ever need to replace the poly sheet, it peels easily off the door, and
removing the caulk is equally convenient since it never sets.

	There are probably better ways to do it, but that is how I did
mine. Only time will tell what the drawbacks are to this method, but it
was a whole lot easier than trying to replace the original rain curtains
inside the door.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 11:04 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Waterproofing door panels

I am about to put new door panels on the inside of my '74 my Six's
doors. The old water curtains are long gone. What have people done to
replace these or found a more effective way to protect the car and the
panels themselves from rain? I supposeI could mount plastic sheeting to
the back of the panels before inserting clips into them.... Any better
ideas out there?

Dave

From bratt at sasktel.net  Tue May  6 16:19:03 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 16:19:03 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Slow wipers
References: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com>
	<82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0D@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805061307030.17149@isis.mit.edu>
	<082f01c8afa0$356f1680$c7fba8c0@hp>
Message-ID: <00d401c8afc7$30d187d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

Robert:

I have had many Lucas equipped cars over too many decades, and have found 
that they amazingly reliable, and far superior to the Japanese Toyota 
electrics, and I am, after years of observation of ill-conceived 
modifications, and other tampering, with Lucas' simple but trustworthy 
electrics,  convinced that only the hamhanded or ill equipped have 
difficulty with Lucas electrics.   Hopefully you are not one of those.

Do not ever trade your Triumph for a Toyota, or Toyota built Lexus.  Just 
for the heck of it, Google (or better yet if your privacy matters to you); 
http://www.scroogle.org/cgi-bin/scraper.htm  Scroogle "Lexus dash lights", 
and see how many businesses Toyota has created by continuing to sell failure 
prone electrical gagets instead of reliable electrics like Lucas.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert McBride" <rmcbride at mi.rr.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 11:40 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Slow wipers


>I just can't believe that you guys would trust driving your TR-6's in the
> rain... I don't even take mine out after dark let alone in the 
> rain.......I
> know better than to make Dr Lucas mad at me........by asking him to do his
> job...............Bob M
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1417 - Release Date: 5/6/2008 
> 8:07 AM

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue May  6 19:55:35 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 21:55:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Waterproofing door panels
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B9241E@orsmsx411.amr.cor
	p.intel.com>
References: <18114525.657911210097046048.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B9241E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <20080507015526.WYJA4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 05:14 PM 5/6/2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote:
>  My method
>was to use some never setting rope caulk, 1/8", from the hardware store.

<snip>

>         There are probably better ways to do it,

Maybe so, but at least one very large auto manufacturer did just that 
all through the late 70s and early 80s...worked just fine then...


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From bratt at sasktel.net  Tue May  6 23:17:00 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Tue, 06 May 2008 23:17:00 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please
 help!
References: <367022.72797.qm@web82606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001101c8b001$945196d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

Kendall:

> search on youtube for footage of chuckleheads driving around the their 
> neighborhoods spewing tons of smoke.

There is, or was, a product called "Carbout" which was used the same way, 
including as in your above reference.  I assume it worked because it was a 
popular product at our Cadillac dealership back in  pre-injection days. 
Many Cadillacs were driven by older drivers who lugged them around the city, 
resulting in carbon buildup, and the starting, pre-ignition and run-on 
problems it can foster.  The dealership had a young guy who's job it was to 
drive those Cadillacs around de-carboning them.  He would take each Cadillac 
out for a spin in town to get it warmed up, then head out for a fast run on 
the highway leaving a "jet trail" behind him.   I do not know if Carbout is 
still sold.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed May  7 07:08:29 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 9:08:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
Message-ID: <7304877.773001210165709516.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>

List;

I'm sure there are many opinions on this but can someone recommend a good quality, compact, automotive-type fire extinguisher? I've seen some at the shows, including nice (expensive) chrome-plated jobs, but wasn't sure if they were the correct size and Type....

Also, do most people carry them in the boot or bolted behind the seats somewhere?

Dave

From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org  Wed May  7 07:15:23 2008
From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 09:15:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
In-Reply-To: <7304877.773001210165709516.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
References: <7304877.773001210165709516.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <6.2.1.2.2.20080507091118.0441cc80@216.7.163.243>

Dave,

I use a marine/boat grade extinguisher that I picked up at Home 
Depot.  It's small enough to stow easily.  No frills... no chrome 
plating... just a white, compact extinguisher.

I keep mine in the boot, though I tend to drive with my boot unlocked, so 
if I need to get to it quick, I can.  Some call me crazy for that.  YMMV.  :)

- Aldwyn


At 09:08 AM 5/7/2008, forzion at maine.rr.com wrote:
>List;
>
>I'm sure there are many opinions on this but can someone recommend a good 
>quality, compact, automotive-type fire extinguisher? I've seen some at the 
>shows, including nice (expensive) chrome-plated jobs, but wasn't sure if 
>they were the correct size and Type....
>
>Also, do most people carry them in the boot or bolted behind the seats 
>somewhere?
>
>Dave
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as aldwyn at sylvancircle.org

From peb3 at cornell.edu  Wed May  7 07:31:26 2008
From: peb3 at cornell.edu (Philip E. Barnes)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 09:31:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
In-Reply-To: <7304877.773001210165709516.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
References: <7304877.773001210165709516.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <p06230901c4475d760ebb@[128.84.47.176]>

>I'm sure there are many opinions on this but can someone recommend a 
>good quality, compact, automotive-type fire extinguisher? I've seen 
>some at the shows, including nice (expensive) chrome-plated jobs, 
>but wasn't sure if they were the correct size and Type....

Go to the local hardware store and get a good quality 10-B-C metal 
valve extinguisher. If it has a hose, even better. The little chrome 
things have enough oomph to put out a lit cigarette. Mount it in the 
trunk horizontally so the powder doesn't pack down. Take it out 
occasionally and shake it to keep the powder loose in the can, 
otherwise nothing will come out when you really need it.
-- 
Phil Barnes (peb3 at cornell.edu)
Keeneyville, PA
'71 TR6  CC61193L (31 year owner)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  7 07:38:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 08:38:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
References: <7304877.773001210165709516.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <001901c8b047$c3d1c3d0$4fa7a8c0@garage.local>

i carry mine behind the seat.  just a small one from home depot.  i had to 
use it once.  trust me - you want it close.  i had been cleaning the engine 
and carbs, and left a solvent soaked rag sitting on the exhaust. 
fortunately all i did was melt off the vacuum line.

also - take a good look at it and read the instructions.  another time many 
years ago i saw smoke under the hood and by the time i figured out how to 
use the fire extinguisher i realized that the air conditioning compressor 
had self destructed and i didn't need it.  a good ending to a potentially 
bad situation.

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <forzion at maine.rr.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 8:08 AM
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers


> List;
>
> I'm sure there are many opinions on this but can someone recommend a good 
> quality, compact, automotive-type fire extinguisher? I've seen some at the 
> shows, including nice (expensive) chrome-plated jobs, but wasn't sure if 
> they were the correct size and Type....
>
> Also, do most people carry them in the boot or bolted behind the seats 
> somewhere?
>
> Dave

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Wed May  7 08:52:36 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:52:36 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
Message-ID: <BLU118-W47A5BF3F37AE8CA5A258C98ED10@phx.gbl>

I agree, just get a good one rated for gasoline ( I think B-C is right), throw
away the plastic bracket and put it right behind the drivers seat. It doesn't
move around at all back there. Best $10 insurance you'll ever buy.

Lucas electronics and a flammable dash..... why??

Sloane :)
69-Six> I'm sure there are many opinions on this but can someone recommend a
good quality, compact, automotive-type fire extinguisher? I've seen some at
the shows, including nice (expensive) chrome-plated jobs, but wasn't sure if
they were the correct size and Type....> > Also, do most people carry them in
the boot or bolted behind the seats somewhere?> > Dave
_________________________________________________________________
Make Windows Vista more reliable and secure with Windows Vista Service Pack
1.
http://www.windowsvista.com/SP1?WT.mc_id=hotmailvistasp1banner

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed May  7 09:42:32 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 08:42:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please
 help!
In-Reply-To: <001101c8b001$945196d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
References: <367022.72797.qm@web82606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<001101c8b001$945196d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B929A0@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Ed:

	My TR6 leaves a "jet trail" behind it where ever it goes, too.
It consists of Lucas electric smoke and oil mist from the leaking
gaskets.

	I *LOVE* my TR6!!!!

	Bwuh-hah-hah-haaaaah!

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ed Bratt
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 10:17 PM
To: Kendall Larsen; 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts
please help!

Kendall:

<snip>

He would take each Cadillac
out for a spin in town to get it warmed up, then head out for a fast run
on
the highway leaving a "jet trail" behind him.

<snip>

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May  7 11:15:51 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 10:15:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May  7 11:21:14 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 13:21:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>

Chuck,
I just went through this and it wasn't too bad. Here's how I did it
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodInstall.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:16 PM
To: Friends; Triumph
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood

Looking to see what tricks people use to re-install the hood after engine
replacement when done as a one person job.  I have done it several times,
probably try different techniques each time, and get frustrated with all of
them.

--
Chuck Arnold
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008
5:17 PM

From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Wed May  7 11:21:53 2008
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Wed, 07 May 2008 10:21:53 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Slow wipers
References: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com>
	<82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0D@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805061307030.17149@isis.mit.edu>
	<082f01c8afa0$356f1680$c7fba8c0@hp>
	<00d401c8afc7$30d187d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
Message-ID: <000901c8b066$d85c0080$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>

I have  TR6 with 88,000mi, Toyota Avalon with 156,000mi and a Ford Ranger 
with 106,000mi.  All are very reliable, except for the Ranger's windshield 
wipers.


Gary
'73


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ed Bratt" <bratt at sasktel.net>
To: "Robert McBride" <rmcbride at mi.rr.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Slow wipers


> Robert:
>
> I have had many Lucas equipped cars over too many decades, and have found
> that they amazingly reliable, and far superior to the Japanese Toyota
> electrics, and I am, after years of observation of ill-conceived
> modifications, and other tampering, with Lucas' simple but trustworthy
> electrics,  convinced that only the hamhanded or ill equipped have
> difficulty with Lucas electrics.   Hopefully you are not one of those.
>
> Do not ever trade your Triumph for a Toyota, or Toyota built Lexus.  Just
> for the heck of it, Google (or better yet if your privacy matters to you);
> http://www.scroogle.org/cgi-bin/scraper.htm  Scroogle "Lexus dash lights",
> and see how many businesses Toyota has created by continuing to sell 
> failure
> prone electrical gagets instead of reliable electrics like Lucas.
>
> Ed Bratt
> Regina, Saskatchewan
> 1976 TR6
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Robert McBride" <rmcbride at mi.rr.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Tuesday, May 06, 2008 11:40 AM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Slow wipers
>
>
>>I just can't believe that you guys would trust driving your TR-6's in the
>> rain... I don't even take mine out after dark let alone in the
>> rain.......I
>> know better than to make Dr Lucas mad at me........by asking him to do 
>> his
>> job...............Bob M
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net
>>
>>
>> -- 
>> No virus found in this incoming message.
>> Checked by AVG.
>> Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1417 - Release Date: 5/6/2008
>> 8:07 AM
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as gary.fluke at verizon.net

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed May  7 11:39:40 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 10:39:40 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B92BFF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	All:

	I used a technique that is almost identical, and I can vouch for
it's effectiveness and relative ease. It's terrific that Bob took the
time to document it, so use it!

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 10:21 AM
To: 'Chuck Arnold'; 'Friends'; 'Triumph'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood

Chuck,
I just went through this and it wasn't too bad. Here's how I did it
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodInstall.htm


Bob Danielson

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Wed May  7 11:47:53 2008
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 13:47:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Slow wipers
In-Reply-To: <000901c8b066$d85c0080$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>
References: <OF6B7D7547.DA108C9D-ON85257441.005B917F-85257441.005C1E10@us.ibm.com><82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB0D@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET><Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805061307030.17149@isis.mit.edu><082f01c8afa0$356f1680$c7fba8c0@hp><00d401c8afc7$30d187d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
	<000901c8b066$d85c0080$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>
Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DB1B@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>

 At the risk of taunting the Prince of Darkness himself to curse me, I
must agree with Gary's comments.  I have found that Lucas parts get a
bad wrap because for the most part, the ones on our cars are old!  I
can't think of something that has gone wrong on a Lucas component in one
of my cars that wasn't just the result of age.  Heck, after 40 years,
some of *my* parts are worse for the wear!

The only possible exception is the hazard switch on my TR250.  That
little puppy contains something like five or six parts.  I do feel that
another manufacturer would have designed it to be less fiddly.

And I repeat -- it's just not safe to drive in the rain.  Or after dark,
for that matter.  :o)



NOTICE: This communication may contain privileged or other confidential
information. If you are not the intended recipient, or believe that you have
received this communication in error, please do not print, copy, retransmit,
disseminate, or otherwise use the information. Also, please indicate to the
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IRS CIRCULAR 230 Disclosure: Under U.S. Treasury regulations, we are required
to inform you that any tax advice contained in this e-mail or any attachment
hereto is not intended to be used, and cannot be used, to avoid penalties
imposed under the Internal Revenue Code.

Thank you.

From bmoine at yahoo.com  Wed May  7 12:29:40 2008
From: bmoine at yahoo.com (W. W. Moine)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 11:29:40 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack]  Fire Extinguishers
Message-ID: <650238.17540.qm@web30302.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

   Just my 2 cents

   I think the question you should also ask yourself is do you want to
   clean up all that powder or would you rather spend a little more and
   get clean agent like Halguard
   http://www.h3rperformance.com/halguard_products.htm

   Are you aware that most of the powder in the dry powder extinguishers
   is highly corrosive and will cause damage if not promptly cleaned from
   metal surfaces?

   I personally want to minimize the mess from any fire and carry the 2.5
   lb Halguard right behind the seat.  They don't cost as much as you
   think.

   WWM

   Message: 8
   Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 9:08:29 -0400
   From: <forzion at maine.rr.com>
   Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
   To: 6pack at autox.team.net
   Message-ID:
       <7304877.773001210165709516.JavaMail.root at hrndva-web27-z02>
   Content-Type: text/plain; charset=utf-8
   List;
   I'm sure there are many opinions on this but can someone recommend a
   good quality, compact, automotive-type fire extinguisher? I've seen
   some at the shows, including nice (expensive) chrome-plated jobs, but
   wasn't sure if they were the correct size and Type....
   Also, do most people carry them in the boot or bolted behind the seats
   somewhere?
   Dave

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed May  7 12:42:09 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:42:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
Message-ID: <5322896.839311210185729565.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>

Bill;

No question halon fire extinguishers are the best.... but the HalGuard HG250C costs $157.95 at Summit Racing! So that's a bit different than just "spending a little more." How about 10x more? Of course, I could simply bite the bullet, hope I never need it, and chalk it up to relatively 'cheap' insurance.....

Thanks,

Dave

---- "W. W. Moine" <bmoine at yahoo.com> wrote: 

Just my 2 cents

I think the question you should also ask yourself is do you want to clean up all that powder or would you rather spend a little more and get clean agent like Halguard http://www.h3rperformance.com/halguard_products.htm 

Are you aware that most of the powder in the dry powder extinguishers is highly corrosive and will cause damage if not promptly cleaned from metal surfaces?

I personally want to minimize the mess from any fire and carry the 2.5 lb Halguard right behind the seat.  They don't cost as much as you think.

WWM

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Wed May  7 12:41:31 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:41:31 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Fire extinguisher
Message-ID: <005d01c8b071$f8024330$95c67b80@nmsu.edu>

I use a 10 lb.  Badger "Purple K"  Their promo:



Kidde Badger Purple K Type Fire Extinguishers
Kidde Badger Purple K Type Dry Chemical Fire Extinguishers 23491B and
23396B. Potassium Bicarbonate fire extinguishers, commonly referred to as
Purple K, are highly effective on B and C class fires. Common applications
are military facilities, oil refineries, airport ramps, service stations and
transfer areas.





L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA



New Mexico State University

505-646-2485

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From trglory at comcast.net  Wed May  7 12:45:17 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:45:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net>

Bob;

I just finished my TR6 (she's ready for the Carlisle show next week) and did
it the exact same way as you. I was going to inquire about the trouble I'm
having with the left rear corner of the hood being higher than the fender,
but I see that you have the same problem too. I have the rubber cone
adjusted down as far as it will go but it's still not enough. BTW, while I
was putting the car back together, I installed Art Lipp's throttle shaft
bushings and I have to tell you that it went together as slick as a skid
mark! What a great design; thanks Art.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:21 PM
To: 'Chuck Arnold'; 'Friends'; 'Triumph'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood

Chuck,
I just went through this and it wasn't too bad. Here's how I did it
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodInstall.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008
5:17 PM

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Wed May  7 13:00:58 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:00:58 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB4E@main.RSC.local>

Bob,

Nice work on the latest chapter of your restoration manual. Regarding
your problem with the left rear corner, might your right front corner be
too low?

Bob Clark
69' TR6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed May  7 13:06:36 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:06:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
In-Reply-To: <forzion@maine.rr.com>'s message of Wed, 7 May 2008 14:42:09 -0400
Message-ID: <14173-4821FDBC-90@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net>

Somewhere along the line Halon got a bad rap. Before all of this
happened I got six of the smallest ones and placed them around home and
cars.(It fits nicely inside the glove box)

I used one of these as a test after it was about15 years old. It still
worked well. (About two years ago)

...And they're painted Red with Black lettering!!

Dick

 From: forzion at maine.rr.com(<forzion at maine.rr.com>

Fire Extinguishers 
Bill; 
No question halon fire extinguishers are the best.... but the HalGuard
HG250C costs $157.95 at Summit Racing! So that's a bit different than
just "spending a little more." How about 10x more? Of course, I could
simply bite the bullet, hope I never need it, and chalk it up to
relatively 'cheap' insurance..... 
Thanks, 
Dave 
______________________________________________ 

From brian at asmoothmove.biz  Wed May  7 13:10:37 2008
From: brian at asmoothmove.biz (Brian J. Alwin)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 14:10:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <007701c8b076$091ffd20$0b01a8c0@grace>

Bob:

Thanks for the great detail on setting the hood. I just replaced my
camshaft, which required me to pull the hood. I struggled with the alignment
as a result. It's still crooked, but now I'm going to use your technique.

Your car is a handsome color, by the way.

Brian J. Alwin
72 TR6 CC79085

From trglory at comcast.net  Wed May  7 13:12:04 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:12:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB4E@main.RSC.local>
References: <000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DB4E@main.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <00a001c8b076$3e1df7c0$ba59e740$@net>

Bob (C);

I can't speak for Bob (D) but my right front corner is exactly where it
should be. But I understand what you are saying....adding shims under the
right front mounting plate to make it level will drop the left rear corner.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Robert N. Clark
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 3:01 PM
To: Bob Danielson; Triumph
Subject: Re: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood

Bob,

Nice work on the latest chapter of your restoration manual. Regarding
your problem with the left rear corner, might your right front corner be
too low?

Bob Clark
69' TR6

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
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5:17 PM

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed May  7 13:46:23 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:46:23 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Speed Bleeder
Message-ID: <21070685.850721210189583455.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>

Hey list;

I'm not sure how many of you have tried, or are familiar with, the Speed Bleeder products but I wrote to their Applications people today because the TR6 wasn't mentioned in their standard App chart at speedbleeder.com. Turns out TR6's use the same Speed Bleeder screws as a Harley!

See their note below, for any who might be interested....

Dave
CF25194U+O+TBI
====================================== 
The size(s) that you need for your application is as follows: 
 
Front....SB3824HD 
Rear.....SB3824HD 
Clutch...SB3824 
 
 When you order Speed Bleeder consider ordering the "Bleeder / Bag Combo".  It 
will make bleeding your brakes even easier.  It consists of a 30 inch length of 
silicone tubing that is specifically sized to the Speed Bleeders and a bleeder 
bag that looks like an IV bag that is used in hospitals.   Attach one end of the 
hose to the Speed Bleeder nipple and the other end to the bleeder bag. Open the 
Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and proceed to bleed your caliper or wheel cylinder.  The 
fluid will be contained in the bleeder bag and eliminates any unnecessary mess. 
  Speed Bleeder can be ordered at http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com 
 
  Thanks 
  Michael Sulwer 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed May  7 13:56:17 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 12:56:17 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Cars for sale in the Portland, OR area?
In-Reply-To: <009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com><000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BBD08F@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Folks:

	Just dropped the mini off at a local alignment shop, and the guy
doing the alignment is in the market for a TR6 or TR4/4A/250. He said he
doesn't want a driver, so it need not be running. He said he doesn't
even care if the motor is missing, but he wants a decent body.
	Seems he has been wanting to restore a Triumph from the ground
up - hence his rather peculiar requirements.

	Does anyone on the list have such a car in the greater PDX, OR
area? If you have such a car please reply to me off list, and I will get
your name and contact info to the technician. I will be seeing him later
today, but I can drop him a message any time if you don't see this
message until later. If you have a picture, send it along. I don't have
his email, but will get it later today and I will forward your
information to him.

	Cheers,

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May  7 14:49:40 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 16:49:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net>
Message-ID: <000501c8b083$e2ebd5d0$210110ac@bobspc>

Joe,
Both rear edges of my hood are up and it's also not a problem with the
rubber cones being adjusted wrong. Years ago I asked a restoration shop
about it and he said the way they get them to lay correctly is by
"springing" the hood. Basically they'd put a block of wood under the hood
and "bend" the corners down to get the correct curve. I'll pass on that
technique and live with the raised corners. Unless someone has a simple
solution.

And Art Lipp's throttle shaft bushing & his steering column bushings are
both great. He told me he'll be bringing a bunch of them to Carlisle. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Joe Laurito [mailto:trglory at comcast.net] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 2:45 PM
To: 'Bob Danielson'; 'Triumph'; Triumph List; 'arthur lipp'
Subject: RE: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood

Bob;

I just finished my TR6 (she's ready for the Carlisle show next week) and did
it the exact same way as you. I was going to inquire about the trouble I'm
having with the left rear corner of the hood being higher than the fender,
but I see that you have the same problem too. I have the rubber cone
adjusted down as far as it will go but it's still not enough. BTW, while I
was putting the car back together, I installed Art Lipp's throttle shaft
bushings and I have to tell you that it went together as slick as a skid
mark! What a great design; thanks Art.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 1:21 PM
To: 'Chuck Arnold'; 'Friends'; 'Triumph'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood

Chuck,
I just went through this and it wasn't too bad. Here's how I did it
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/HoodInstall.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008
5:17 PM
 

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008
5:17 PM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed May  7 14:39:35 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 15:39:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Speed Bleeder
References: <21070685.850721210189583455.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <008a01c8b084$1557daf0$4fa7a8c0@garage.local>

i put them in  every car.  well worth it.



> Hey list;
>
> I'm not sure how many of you have tried, or are familiar with, the Speed 
> Bleeder products but I wrote to their Applications people today because 
> the TR6 wasn't mentioned in their standard App chart at speedbleeder.com. 
> Turns out TR6's use the same Speed Bleeder screws as a Harley!
>
> See their note below, for any who might be interested....
>
> Dave
> CF25194U+O+TBI
> ======================================
> The size(s) that you need for your application is as follows:
>
> Front....SB3824HD
> Rear.....SB3824HD
> Clutch...SB3824
>
> When you order Speed Bleeder consider ordering the "Bleeder / Bag Combo". 
> It
> will make bleeding your brakes even easier.  It consists of a 30 inch 
> length of
> silicone tubing that is specifically sized to the Speed Bleeders and a 
> bleeder
> bag that looks like an IV bag that is used in hospitals.   Attach one end 
> of the
> hose to the Speed Bleeder nipple and the other end to the bleeder bag. 
> Open the
> Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and proceed to bleed your caliper or wheel 
> cylinder.  The
> fluid will be contained in the bleeder bag and eliminates any unnecessary 
> mess.
>  Speed Bleeder can be ordered at http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com
>
>  Thanks
>  Michael Sulwer

From trglory at comcast.net  Wed May  7 15:03:25 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 17:03:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood
In-Reply-To: <000501c8b083$e2ebd5d0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <8cbd782d0805071015q143289ebw83c8b0641fcab4ea@mail.gmail.com>
	<000601c8b066$c33a4db0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<009501c8b072$7e84eca0$7b8ec5e0$@net>
	<000501c8b083$e2ebd5d0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00b501c8b085$cbc0faa0$6342efe0$@net>

I used that technique to "profile" the trunk lid on my TR3. Cracked all the
paint in the valley about two inches from the edge. It evidently takes
someone with more skill (or finesse) than I possess. Being older and wiser,
I'll pass this time around.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 4:50 PM
To: 'Joe Laurito'; 'Triumph'; 'Triumph List'; 'arthur lipp'
Subject: RE: [6pack] Replacing TR6 hood

 
Joe,
Both rear edges of my hood are up and it's also not a problem with the
rubber cones being adjusted wrong. Years ago I asked a restoration shop
about it and he said the way they get them to lay correctly is by
"springing" the hood. Basically they'd put a block of wood under the hood
and "bend" the corners down to get the correct curve. I'll pass on that
technique and live with the raised corners. Unless someone has a simple
solution.

And Art Lipp's throttle shaft bushing & his steering column bushings are
both great. He told me he'll be bringing a bunch of them to Carlisle. 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.9/1418 - Release Date: 5/6/2008
5:17 PM

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed May  7 16:20:55 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 23:20:55 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Fire extinguisher
References: <005d01c8b071$f8024330$95c67b80@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <069c01c8b090$9e9a7140$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I mount my fire extinguisher where the factory rally cars mounted theirs. In two spring clips 
screwed to the floor directly in front of the drivers seat. Just make sure the 'Start' knob isn't 
where you're likely to kick it!

Jonmac 

From bmoine at yahoo.com  Wed May  7 19:26:34 2008
From: bmoine at yahoo.com (W. W. Moine)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 18:26:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
In-Reply-To: <5322896.839311210185729565.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <446210.43861.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

   Summit is way over priced on that item.. you should be able to find it
   other places for half of that.
   --- On Wed, 5/7/08, forzion at maine.rr.com <forzion at maine.rr.com> wrote:

     From: forzion at maine.rr.com <forzion at maine.rr.com>
     Subject: Re: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
     To: "W. W. Moine" <bmoine at yahoo.com>
     Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
     Date: Wednesday, May 7, 2008, 2:42 PM
Bill;

No question halon fire extinguishers are the best.... but the HalGuard HG250C
costs $157.95 at Summit Racing! So that's a bit different than just
"spending a little more." How about 10x more? Of course, I could
simply bite the bullet, hope I never need it, and chalk it up to relatively
'cheap' insurance.....

Thanks,

Dave

---- "W. W. Moine" <bmoine at yahoo.com> wrote:

Just my 2 cents

I think the question you should also ask yourself is do you want to clean up
all that powder or would you rather spend a little more and get clean agent
like Halguard http://www.h3rperformance.com/halguard_products.htm

Are you aware that most of the powder in the dry powder extinguishers is highly
corrosive and will cause damage if not promptly cleaned from metal surfaces?

I personally want to minimize the mess from any fire and carry the 2.5 lb
Halguard right behind the seat.  They don't cost as much as you think.

WWM

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Wed May  7 19:38:14 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Wed, 7 May 2008 21:38:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
In-Reply-To: <446210.43861.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <5322896.839311210185729565.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
	<446210.43861.qm@web30305.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8b0ac$31232730$6601a8c0@Robert>

Available from Automotion.com from $45.95 to $159.95

From jmitch at snet.net  Thu May  8 04:51:51 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 06:51:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
Message-ID: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>

    I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so 
I jumpered the wires last night.  It lasted several minutes before the 
fuse blew.  What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for 
as the culprit?  Thanks very much,  John Mitchell  76 TR6

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu May  8 08:00:57 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:00:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
Message-ID: <27707701.966071210255258092.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web26-z02>

Yes, Robert, that's true. The MaxOut (dry chemical) models by H3R range from $42.95 to $85.95. Tha Halguard (Halon gas) versions start at $102.95 and run through $154.95. I suppose the question is, how much do I want to spend to NOT have to later clean up a dry chemical mess that's been sprayed onto a hot engine?
I've heard it doesn't just wash off...

Dave

---- Robert Liam Gannon <trsix74 at comcast.net> wrote: 
> Available from Automotion.com from $45.95 to $159.95

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu May  8 08:21:13 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 14:21:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>
References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W1663753D4A2B072677C0548ED00@phx.gbl>

I just moved the wires on the rheostat so that they were connected together on
one side. Not sure what all the extra connections back there are for, but I've
never had any problem, and it keeps the lights on full dim at all times. You
must have a ground short somewhere.

Sloane :)
69-Six> I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so >
I jumpered the wires last night. It lasted several minutes before the > fuse
blew. What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for > as the
culprit? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
messenger_052008

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu May  8 08:26:40 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 14:26:40 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
In-Reply-To: <27707701.966071210255258092.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web26-z02>
References: <27707701.966071210255258092.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web26-z02>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W48BEEB76750D81F076150F8ED00@phx.gbl>

I do appreciate the 'heads up' on what a mess I may have to clean up if I ever
have to use the cheep extinguisher, but I think that the 'FIRE' may be worse
for the car than anything, so I'll stick with this one and pray I never have
to use it, at least not on 'my' car. I can see myself thinking as I drive by,
'damn, I'd love to stop and help that guy, but this thing cost $150."

Sloane :)69-Six>I suppose the question is, how much do I want to spend to NOT
have to later >clean up a dry chemical mess that's been sprayed onto a hot
engine?> I've heard it doesn't just wash off...> > Dave>
_________________________________________________________________
Get Free (PRODUCT) RED  Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu May  8 08:32:06 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 07:32:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W48BEEB76750D81F076150F8ED00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <521037.18890.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

it vacuums out pretty easily, and what little residue is left washes out very easily.  i used one in the engine compartment of my car and one in the oven when my wife made flamed turkey for thanksgiving <grin>
   
  someone laughed at me for having a fire extinguisher in my car.  its not a laughing matter.
   
  and i hope no one else on the list ever has call to use one.

im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote:
  I do appreciate the 'heads up' on what a mess I may have to clean up if I ever
have to use the cheep extinguisher, but I think that the 'FIRE' may be worse
for the car than anything, so I'll stick with this one and pray I never have
to use it, at least not on 'my' car. I can see myself thinking as I drive by,
'damn, I'd love to stop and help that guy, but this thing cost $150."

Sloane :)69-Six>I suppose the question is, how much do I want to spend to NOT
have to later >clean up a dry chemical mess that's been sprayed onto a hot
engine?> I've heard it doesn't just wash off...> > Dave>

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu May  8 08:33:48 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:33:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fire Extinguishers
Message-ID: <1747855.973341210257228843.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web26-z02>

Great point, Sloane! Not sure I'd even want to use a $150 extinguisher on my
own car!  :- )


---- im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com> wrote:
> I do appreciate the 'heads up' on what a mess I may have to clean up if I
ever
> have to use the cheep extinguisher, but I think that the 'FIRE' may be
worse
> for the car than anything, so I'll stick with this one and pray I never
have
> to use it, at least not on 'my' car. I can see myself thinking as I drive
by,
> 'damn, I'd love to stop and help that guy, but this thing cost $150."
>
> Sloane :)69-Six>I suppose the question is, how much do I want to spend to
NOT
> have to later >clean up a dry chemical mess that's been sprayed onto a hot
> engine?> I've heard it doesn't just wash off...> > Dave>
> _________________________________________________________________
> Get Free (PRODUCT) RED  Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
> http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu May  8 08:39:42 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:39:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>
References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805081037550.23659@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 8 May 2008, John Mitchell wrote:

>    I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so
> I jumpered the wires last night.  It lasted several minutes before the
> fuse blew.  What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for
> as the culprit?  Thanks very much,  John Mitchell  76 TR6

You obviously have a short.

Start pulling stuff off the circuit to see what's shorted.

I'd skip replacing the fuse and use a test-light to find the short. You'll 
save some $$$ on fuses.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu May  8 12:19:36 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 11:19:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>
Message-ID: <002901c8b138$12b33b00$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Electrical diagram I have shows 8 dashboard lamps wired to (red wire)
rheostat and wire (red/white) to fuse 12V.
Will fuse blow if you connect red to red/white?
Rheostat function is to vary current/voltage to lamps thereby vary light
intensity.
This should not by itself draw more current...blow fuse and burn rheostat.
Seems more like where the wires belong on the rheostat itself would be the
issue.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:51 AM
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats


>     I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so
> I jumpered the wires last night.  It lasted several minutes before the
> fuse blew.  What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for
> as the culprit?  Thanks very much,  John Mitchell  76 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May  8 09:30:15 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 08:30:15 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <002901c8b138$12b33b00$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>
	<002901c8b138$12b33b00$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BBD6DE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Bob:

	Something on the red/white circuit is drawing too much current.
This is why the fuse blows and why you burned up rheostats.
	Since a short to ground on the ground side of any lamp will not
make it draw more current, you have a couple of possibilities:

	1. Lamps are too high a wattage, so collectively they draw too
much current.
	2. One or more lamps are shorted - removing the offending lamp
will make the current drop dramatically
	3. A short to ground on one of the red/white wires between the
rheostat and the lamps.

	A good place to start would be to replace any bulbs that are not
working, or are very dim. Check the wattage of the existing lamps while
you are at it.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 11:20 AM
To: John Mitchell; 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ruining rheostats

Electrical diagram I have shows 8 dashboard lamps wired to (red wire)
rheostat and wire (red/white) to fuse 12V.
Will fuse blow if you connect red to red/white?
Rheostat function is to vary current/voltage to lamps thereby vary light
intensity.
This should not by itself draw more current...blow fuse and burn
rheostat.
Seems more like where the wires belong on the rheostat itself would be
the
issue.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message -----
From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:51 AM
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats


>     I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year,
so
> I jumpered the wires last night.  It lasted several minutes before the
> fuse blew.  What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking
for
> as the culprit?  Thanks very much,  John Mitchell  76 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu May  8 10:36:42 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 16:36:42 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W1663753D4A2B072677C0548ED00@phx.gbl>
References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net><BLU118-W1663753D4A2B072677C0548ED00@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <807355459-1210264651-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1842656053-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I have read that you can puthem all together but have not done it yet so I am definitely interested in this thread.  
 

-----Original Message-----
From: im sloane <im_sloane at hotmail.com>

Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 14:21:13 
To:6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ruining rheostats


I just moved the wires on the rheostat so that they were connected together on
one side. Not sure what all the extra connections back there are for, but I've
never had any problem, and it keeps the lights on full dim at all times. You
must have a ground short somewhere.

Sloane :)
69-Six> I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so >
I jumpered the wires last night. It lasted several minutes before the > fuse
blew. What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for > as the
culprit? Thanks very much, John Mitchell 76 TR6
_________________________________________________________________
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From bratt at sasktel.net  Thu May  8 10:42:11 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 10:42:11 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please
 help!
References: <367022.72797.qm@web82606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<001101c8b001$945196d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03B929A0@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <02c401c8b12a$76e39bf0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

> My TR6 leaves a "jet trail" behind it where ever it goes, too.
> It consists of Lucas electric smoke and oil mist from the leaking
> gaskets.

Are you absolutely sure it is coming from the car?

Ed


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: "Ed Bratt" <bratt at sasktel.net>; "Kendall Larsen" 
<mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>; "6pack List" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 9:42 AM
Subject: RE: [6pack] [TR] Carbon on top of pistons - engine experts please 
help! 

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu May  8 14:50:50 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 13:50:50 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
References: <4822DB47.3090603@snet.net>
	<002901c8b138$12b33b00$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BBD6DE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <000601c8b14d$332574b0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Key question is does fuse blow with current lamps without the rheostat?
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 8:30 AM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Ruining rheostats


> Bob:
> 
> Something on the red/white circuit is drawing too much current.
> This is why the fuse blows and why you burned up rheostats.
> Since a short to ground on the ground side of any lamp will not
> make it draw more current, you have a couple of possibilities:
> 
> 1. Lamps are too high a wattage, so collectively they draw too
> much current.
> 2. One or more lamps are shorted - removing the offending lamp
> will make the current drop dramatically
> 3. A short to ground on one of the red/white wires between the
> rheostat and the lamps.
> 
> A good place to start would be to replace any bulbs that are not
> working, or are very dim. Check the wattage of the existing lamps while
> you are at it. 
> 
> Vance
> 
> 
>     Vance Navarrette
>     Cogito Ergo Zoom
>     I think, therefore I go fast
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Bob
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 11:20 AM
> To: John Mitchell; 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
> 
> Electrical diagram I have shows 8 dashboard lamps wired to (red wire)
> rheostat and wire (red/white) to fuse 12V.
> Will fuse blow if you connect red to red/white?
> Rheostat function is to vary current/voltage to lamps thereby vary light
> intensity.
> This should not by itself draw more current...blow fuse and burn
> rheostat.
> Seems more like where the wires belong on the rheostat itself would be
> the
> issue.
> Regards,
> Bob
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
> To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 3:51 AM
> Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
> 
> 
> >     I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year,
> so
> > I jumpered the wires last night.  It lasted several minutes before the
> > fuse blew.  What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking
> for
> > as the culprit?  Thanks very much,  John Mitchell  76 TR6
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com  Thu May  8 15:00:46 2008
From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 14:00:46 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Looking for chrome license plate plinth...
Message-ID: <809548.69553.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Folks,

Another tall order here...looking for the very hard to find chrome license plate plinth, which mounts on the front bumper of the '75-'76.

In the TRF green book, it's p/n XKC1748, as seen on Plate "FM".

If anyone has a decent spare that will buff up nicely w/ white rouge...name your price. 

Thanks in advance,

Pete

newly-acquired '75 Mallard Green CF38421U

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu May  8 15:53:30 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 22:53:30 +0100
Subject: [6pack] THE LEYLAND PAPERS
Message-ID: <07ad01c8b155$f4878dc0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

I know many are interested in the history of British Leyland and the member companies that made up 
the whole. In 1971, a highly respected British journalist and author by the name of Graham Turner 
wrote a superb book about the immediate preceding ten years and all the whys and wherefores about 
how BL came into being. His book on the subject called *The Leyland Papers* has long been out of 
print and I managed to get my second copy on ebay a few weeks ago. Another copy - this is a 
hardback, has come up for auction under this reference 270235430217. I really commend what Turner 
wrote as I moved within "the corridors of power" in 1972/73 and I can vouch for the accuracy of what 
he has written. TLP is a must have for anyone interested and there's quite a lot about Triumph as 
well. Usual blah about NFI - but bid if you want the true FACTS and not the inaccurate woffle that 
seems to come from other so-called experts.

Jonmac



Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009
www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk

An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Thu May  8 16:02:55 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Thu, 8 May 2008 15:02:55 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
Message-ID: <178550.55067.qm@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John
 
What has been previously stated is all correct. If you still have the
original fuse box you should have 2 red wires coming from it. I would pull one
off and use a light probe to see if you have current pulling though it with
out a fuse. If not put the other one back on and pull the one off that you
first had on. This will at least give you a starting point for which wire you
need to search for the problem.
 
One wire is the Front parking lights and
marker lights. The second wire is the rear marker & license plate lamps -
trunk lamp as well as the gage lamps that were controlled by the rheostat.
There are a total of 23 lights on these two wire circuits for you 76 TR6.
 
See if you can isolate which wire at the fuse box is the culprit before you
start pulling light bulbs.
I did what you are trying to do, eliminate the
rheostat, on my 1974 TR6 and have not had any problems.
 
Dale


-----
Original Message ----
From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
To: 6-Pack
<6pack at autox.team.net>; "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2008 6:51:51 AM
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats

   
I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so 
I
jumpered the wires last night.  It lasted several minutes before the 
fuse
blew.  What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for 
as the
culprit?  Thanks very much,  John Mitchell  76 TR6
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com
_____________________________________________________________________________
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From murr32 at shaw.ca  Thu May  8 16:24:13 2008
From: murr32 at shaw.ca (Dave Murray)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 16:24:13 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <178550.55067.qm@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <178550.55067.qm@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <004f01c8b15a$3fa3ede0$6601a8c0@LAPTOP>

I had a similar issue - caused by the license plate light holders shorting
to the body.

Dave

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+murr32=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+murr32=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dale
Sent: Thursday, May 08, 2008 4:03 PM
To: John Mitchell; 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ruining rheostats

John
 
What has been previously stated is all correct. If you still have the
original fuse box you should have 2 red wires coming from it. I would pull
one
off and use a light probe to see if you have current pulling though it with
out a fuse. If not put the other one back on and pull the one off that you
first had on. This will at least give you a starting point for which wire
you
need to search for the problem.
 
One wire is the Front parking lights and
marker lights. The second wire is the rear marker & license plate lamps -
trunk lamp as well as the gage lamps that were controlled by the rheostat.
There are a total of 23 lights on these two wire circuits for you 76 TR6.
 
See if you can isolate which wire at the fuse box is the culprit before you
start pulling light bulbs.
I did what you are trying to do, eliminate the
rheostat, on my 1974 TR6 and have not had any problems.
 
Dale


-----
Original Message ----
From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
To: 6-Pack
<6pack at autox.team.net>; "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 8, 2008 6:51:51 AM
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats

   
I've gone thru 3 rheostats for the dash lights in the last year, so 
I
jumpered the wires last night.  It lasted several minutes before the 
fuse
blew.  What in the red to red/white circuit should I be looking for 
as the
culprit?  Thanks very much,  John Mitchell  76 TR6
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com
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From jmitch at snet.net  Thu May  8 20:18:47 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 22:18:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
References: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
Message-ID: <4823B487.30109@snet.net>

Thanks for everyones kind advice on my electrical problem.  I've almost 
gone crazy tracing this thing. I have the rheostat juped out of the 
circuit.  I pull the wood fascia forward, everything works fine.  I 
screw it down, and when the left upper corner screw is all the way in, 
the fuse lets go.  I pull it out, move things around, and it works till 
I screw it down.   I finally have it all the way in and all is ok, but I 
haven't put the speedometer and tach back in, as I'm out of fuses:(  I 
even tried changing the head light switch.  I'll let you guys know if it 
works when I have all the gauges back in.  Obviously, something is 
pinching somewhere, but I just cant see anything wrong.  Thanks again,   
John Mitchell

P.S.  I tried those 360 degree red  LED lights in the brake sockets, and 
they are noticeably brighter.  I tried white ones in the back up lights, 
but the result was not as good as the original type bulbs and the color 
is very blue.  Next,  I will try the amber lights, and see if they are 
an improvement.  

Randall wrote:
>> It lasted 
>> several minutes before the fuse blew.
>>     
>
> That would indicate either a slight overload (possibly a wiring mistake to
> another load) or (more likely) an intermittent short.  Shorts in particular
> can be lots of fun to find; I've had this problem several times (on various
> non-TR6 cars) and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in the
> bodywork somehow.  On the Stag, it was the (unused) wire to the gear
> indicator pinched under the center console.  On my Valiant, it was the wire
> to the key illumination pinched in a steering column shroud.  If memory
> serves, there is a center console light on the later TR6 that could be the
> problem.
>
> Careful inspection is where I would start, but if that doesn't work : Remove
> all the bulbs on the circuit and temporarily jumper the fuse with an old
> headlight bulb or similar.  The bulb will pass some current, but not enough
> to damage the wiring.  Then use a magnetic compass to track down where the
> current goes.  Or some places sell a tool that does the same thing.  Likely
> much better, but I've never tried one.
>
> Yet another approach is to find a self-resetting circuit breaker (many more
> modern cars have these in the power window circuits, should be readily
> available at your FLAPS) and jumper the fuse with that.  Then feel for the
> hot wire.
>
> Randall

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Thu May  8 20:29:47 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 08 May 2008 22:29:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <4823B487.30109@snet.net>
References: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<4823B487.30109@snet.net>
Message-ID: <8CA7F93AF02BEF7-968-ED8@webmail-md02.sysops.aol.com>

 John,

Sounds like you have found your problem.? By your own description the problem only occurs when you tighten down the wood fascia.? Sounds like you are pinching a wire somewhere when you tighten things down.? Take a closer look and see what you find.

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
To: Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com>; 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Sent: Thu, 8 May 2008 10:18 pm
Subject: Re: [TR] Ruining rheostats










Thanks for everyones kind advice on my electrical problem.  I've almost 
gone crazy tracing this thing. I have the rheostat juped out of the 
circuit.  I pull the wood fascia forward, everything works fine.  I 
screw it down, and when the left upper corner screw is all the way in, 
the fuse lets go.  I pull it out, move things around, and it works till 
I screw it down.   I finally have it all the way in and all is ok, but I 
haven't put the speedometer and tach back in, as I'm out of fuses:(  I 
even tried changing the head light switch.  I'll let you guys know if it 
works when I have all the gauges back in.  Obviously, something is 
pinching somewhere, but I just cant see anything wrong.  Thanks again,   
John Mitchell

P.S.  I tried those 360 degree red  LED lights in the brake sockets, and 
they are noticeably brighter.  I tried white ones in the back up lights, 
but the result was not as good as the original type bulbs and the color 
is very blue.  Next,  I will try the amber lights, and see if they are 
an improvement.  

Randall wrote:
>> It lasted 
>> several minutes before the fuse blew.
>>     
>
> That would indicate either a slight overload (possibly a wiring mistake to
> another load) or (more likely) an intermittent short.  Shorts in particular
> can be lots of fun to find; I've had this problem several times (on various
> non-TR6 cars) and it usually turned out to be a wire that was pinched in the
> bodywork somehow.  On the Stag, it was the (unused) wire to the gear
> indicator pinched under the center console.  On my Valiant, it was the wire
> to the key illumination pinched in a steering column shroud.  If memory
> serves, there is a center console light on the later TR6 that could be the
> problem.
>
> Careful inspection is where I would start, but if that doesn't work : Remove
> all the bulbs on the circuit and temporarily jumper the fuse with an old
> headlight bulb or similar.  The bulb will pass some current, but not enough
> to damage the wiring.  Then use a magnetic compass to track down where the
> current goes.  Or some places sell a tool that does the same thing.  Likely
> much better, but I've never tried one.
>
> Yet another approach is to find a self-resetting circuit breaker (many more
> modern cars have these in the power window circuits, should be readily
> available at your FLAPS) and jumper the fuse with that.  Then feel for the
> hot wire.
>
> Randall
_

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri May  9 06:45:51 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 12:45:51 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <4823B487.30109@snet.net>
References: <20080508165413.HMMW15993.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@randall>
	<4823B487.30109@snet.net>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W5300F302538041DB32B5628ED30@phx.gbl>

John,
Just a word of advice. Be very careful around the headlight switch, as it's
power lead goes directly to the battery, via the starter. Touch that hot wire
to ground and you have a red hot wire burning thru the harness. (as everybody
says, don't ask how I know) A very good upgrade is a circuit breaker between
that switch and the battery.

Good luck finding that short. It's in there somewhere.

Sloane :)


> I even tried changing the head light switch. I'll let you guys know if it >
works when I have all the gauges back in. Obviously, something is > pinching
somewhere, but I just cant see anything wrong. Thanks again, > John Mitchell>
_________________________________________________________________
With Windows Live for mobile, your contacts travel with you.
http://www.windowslive.com/mobile/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_mob
ile_052008

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Fri May  9 13:14:21 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 15:14:21 -0400
Subject: [6pack] unleaded fuel
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40805091214p1c575367s3d599a2ab69c53dd@mail.gmail.com>

I just noticed this thread on the 6-Pack website.  I'll be honest, I
never knew this:

http://www.6-pack.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=37566#37566

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
--
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Fri May  9 13:33:15 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 15:33:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] unleaded fuel
In-Reply-To: <24713021.1190451210361153723.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web22-z02>
References: <24713021.1190451210361153723.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web22-z02>
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40805091233j3ab28428v2589104c50dbce18@mail.gmail.com>

The way I read that thread is that they are saying you can run a later
TR6 without adding in a lead replacement additive (which I've been
doing for some time).

John V.

On Fri, May 9, 2008 at 3:25 PM, <forzion at maine.rr.com> wrote:
>
> Not sure I understand the revelation here John. I believe ALL fuels have been unleaded for years, regardless of octane rating, no?? I mean we have no choice in the matter. Regular leaded gas went away years ago! Now ETHANOL, that's another matter!
>
> Dave
>
>
> ---- John VanNorman <jsvannorman at gmail.com> wrote:
> > I just noticed this thread on the 6-Pack website.  I'll be honest, I
> > never knew this:
> >
> > http://www.6-pack.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=37566#37566
> >
> > John V.
> > 1974 1/2 TR6
> > --
> > www.vannorman.hobby-site.com
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com
>



--
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri May  9 13:45:54 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 12:45:54 -0700
Subject: [6pack] unleaded fuel
In-Reply-To: "John VanNorman" <jsvannorman@gmail.com>'s message of Fri,
	9 May 2008 15:14:21 -0400
Message-ID: <8675-4824A9F2-3863@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net>

John V.---I'm not sure of what these guys are talking about, when
writing of the "factory changing of the valve seats". I'm pretty sure
that these seats are an integral part of the head thruout the TR6
models. (They do not have special inserts)
Meanwhile, hardened inserts are available from many of the TR parts
houses. Whether they are necessary is a matter of debate. High revving
engines with heavy valve springs might warrant these inserts, but I've
found no valve seat recession worth noting, when using unleaded fuel for
the last 18 years .

We know that (hgher) octane requirements are
needed for engines that have the higher compression ratios, such as the
early models and those owners who have increased theirs.. The later
models with the 7.75 and 7.5 CRs will operate just fine with 87 oct. if
the ignition timing is correct. The choice of octane does not affect
whether there is going to be valve seat recession.

Dick
E-mail message

 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com(John VanNorman)

I just noticed this thread on the 6-Pack website. I'll be honest, I
never knew this:
http://www.6-pack.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=37566#37566
John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
--
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com
______________________________________

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May  9 13:54:27 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 15:54:27 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] unleaded fuel
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40805091214p1c575367s3d599a2ab69c53dd@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40805091214p1c575367s3d599a2ab69c53dd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805091549440.27554@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 9 May 2008, John VanNorman wrote:

> I just noticed this thread on the 6-Pack website.  I'll be honest, I
> never knew this:
>
> http://www.6-pack.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=37566#37566

Me niether.

That's because I don't believe that it's accurate that Triumph "switched" 
to hardened valve seats.

As far as running unleaded, my car had over 90k miles of unleaded 
REGULAR. No valve recession 'till my distributor got flakey and I had 
ignition on run-down... burned a couple of valves (but it sounded kool!). 
I'm at 9.5:1 now and run mid-grade fuel (because I run a lot of ignition 
advance). No pinking with 91 octane (R+M)/2 method.

I have heads from all years and I have yet to find a hardened seat in a 
factory head unless it was installed after the car was in service.

> John V.
> 1974 1/2 TR6

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May  9 13:59:47 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 15:59:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Commercial message - Import Carlisle
Message-ID: <4824AD33.90604@bright.net>

Hello list. Just a follow-up to our previous announcement about Import 
Carlisle.  I will be there Thursday afternoon through about 4 pm 
Saturday, spaces D80 & 81. If there is something you want me to bring 
along, please let me know. Packing will take place Wednesday so we need 
any orders as soon as we can. Will have usual stock of stainless steel 
braid brake lines, gear reduction starters, springs and other suspension 
components, etc. Also some used engines, including Rover 3.9 short 
blocks, gearboxes and other "stuff". Thanks for your time. Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May  9 14:20:22 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 13:20:22 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Triumph installed hardened seats?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805091549440.27554@isis.mit.edu>
References: <d8ff30d40805091214p1c575367s3d599a2ab69c53dd@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805091549440.27554@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BE9064@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Robert:

 	I had never heard this one either, so I am going to chalk it up
to urban legend.

	I can say that my '74 with 69,000 miles had no valve seat
recession when I purchased it in 2003. I personally am of the mind that
a well tuned engine has minimal valve seat recession risk, even without
hardened seats.

	I should also mention that Detroit NEVER used hardened inserts
even for unleaded fuel. Instead, they INDUCTION HARDENED the seats. This
involves using a water cooled electromagnet shaped to fit in the center
of the valve seat, and pumping loads of alternating current through the
magnet at a few kilohertz. This induces an "eddy current" in the valve
seat, which in a couple of seconds heats to its eutectic temperature
(iron blocks have trace amounts of carbon and nickel as I recall). The
carbon/nickel goes into solution in the iron (casting iron results in
most of the carbon being at grain boundaries in the metal) and then the
valve seat is quenched with water.
	This results in the valve seat being very hard, while the rest
of the head is much more ductile. The hardened valve seat is contiguous
with the rest of the head, and can only be identified by inspection
under a microscope.

	So, if Triumph EVER used hardened valve seats, they would not
have used inserts - too expensive and they can fall out (although this
is extremely unlikely). Induction hardening is faster, cheaper, and
stronger since the head and seat are one piece.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Lang
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 12:54 PM
To: John VanNorman
Cc: 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] unleaded fuel

On Fri, 9 May 2008, John VanNorman wrote:

> I just noticed this thread on the 6-Pack website.  I'll be honest, I
> never knew this:
>
>
http://www.6-pack.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=37566#375
66

Me niether.

That's because I don't believe that it's accurate that Triumph
"switched"
to hardened valve seats.

<snip>

I have heads from all years and I have yet to find a hardened seat in a
factory head unless it was installed after the car was in service.

> John V.
> 1974 1/2 TR6

regards,
rml

From bratt at sasktel.net  Fri May  9 14:59:22 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Fri, 09 May 2008 14:59:22 -0600
Subject: [6pack] unleaded fuel
References: <d8ff30d40805091214p1c575367s3d599a2ab69c53dd@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001601c8b217$8ee4cb50$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

John:

I have doubts about this.  I believe that Britain was still using lead in 
"petrol" up into the early 1980's, so there would have been no reason for 
triumph to change valve seat materials.  Triumph's were out of production 
before unleaded became the normal "petrol".

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan

1976 TR6
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John VanNorman" <jsvannorman at gmail.com>
To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 09, 2008 1:14 PM
Subject: [6pack] unleaded fuel 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri May  9 16:29:22 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 9 May 2008 23:29:22 +0100
Subject: [6pack] unleaded fuel
References: <d8ff30d40805091214p1c575367s3d599a2ab69c53dd@mail.gmail.com>
	<001601c8b217$8ee4cb50$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
Message-ID: <086e01c8b224$215f9c60$0201a8c0@Bevan>

The UK finally banished leaded fuel availability in 1999. In the run-up to that event, there was a 
lot of panic (fuelled (no pun) by the Press) that unleaded fuel was unsuitable for classic car 
engines as a whole. This has proved to be bunk with cars that had cast-iron heads. At that time I 
was working for BMIHT and did a lot of research for enthusiasts prior to releasing a publication  on 
what they were supposed to do. The findings were as follows:

1. Cast iron head engines - even without hardened exhaust valve seats, create what is basically 
known as 'lead memory' - in other words, lead is absorbed into the cast iron rather like a sponge.
2. There really is no need to panic and fit hardened seats as all Triumph engines have proved to be 
exceptionally tolerant of lead-free fuel without hardened seats.
3. All that is needed is slight retarding of the ignition.

Of course, if you want to use an additive, potassium is widely held to be the most suitable as a 
lead replacement. To the best of my knowledge, the factory did not ever fit hardened seats to cars 
for North America, even though unleaded fuel was available there long before it was in Europe and 
the UK. With this in view, surely the factory would have been concerned about valve seat life where 
unleaded was widely available and IF it had felt hardened seats were desirable, I'm sure it would 
have fitted them for all markets and not just North America. My 2.5PI now has over 250,000 miles on 
the original head. It has certainly had new valve guides in my ownership but I thought I'd wait to 
see how it coped on unleaded without an additive. At 10,000 miles of hard driving, no sign of valve 
seat recession and I think it actually performs better on unleaded than it did on leaded!

My 2 cents worth

Jonmac 

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat May 10 04:38:38 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 06:38:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
Message-ID: <48257B2E.2030002@snet.net>

   Thanks again to all that helped on this one.  I never did find 
exactly what the cause was(is), but I noted that gauge lights for the 
speedometer were stretched pretty tight, so I rerouted those.  I decided 
to leave the rheostat jumper in place for now, but added an inline fuse 
that I can get to easily.  Hopefully if the short re-occurs( and you 
know it will), that fuse will let go and all I'll lose is my gauge 
lights and not my taillights.  I used a 10 amp acg for the inline which 
should go before the 35 amp Lucas.   John Mitchell  76 TR6

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat May 10 09:46:14 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 11:46:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
Message-ID: <20080510154610.IGQZ720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@TRGUY>

Listers:

 

I have hunted for the correct square nut that is mounted on the front header
of the hardtop (inside welded cage) to install the two front mounting bolts
with no luck. I even contacted a local fastener wholesaler who could get
them but I would need to order 3200.  That would probable be a supply for
every hardtop still out there!  I found a replacement 5/16 course thread
square nut from Ace hardware, but I don't want to use a non-stock bolt
(rounded top) for the install.  I have the 5/16 fine thread 6 sided nut.
Does anyone know a way to weld that to a square size frame???  Or, has
anyone made a square from steel stock of the correct dimensions and
thickness and drilled and tapped the right thread.  I really do not want to
install the course square nut and have two different mounting bolts.  Also
check with TRF and they do not have a supplier, but would be interested in
one if anyone knows one.

 

Thanks in advance!

 

Hardtopless in Orlando

Jim Henningsen

75 TR6 CF35914U

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat May 10 14:09:20 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 13:09:20 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
In-Reply-To: "James Henningsen" <trguy@cfl.rr.com>'s message of Sat, 10
	May 2008 11:46:14 -0400
Message-ID: <8677-482600F0-2384@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net>

 Jim---You had one of the answers, as you  could take a piece of square
stock (1/2 inch?) the size of the nut you're looking for. Cut off the
thickness to suit. Drill and tap for the thread to match your bolt.

Dick

 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com(James Henningsen)

Listers:
I have hunted for the correct square nut that is mounted on the front
header of the hardtop (inside welded cage) to install the two front
mounting bolts with no luck. I even contacted a local fastener
wholesaler who could get them but I would need to order 3200. That would
probable be a supply for every hardtop still out there! I found a
replacement 5/16 course thread square nut from Ace hardware, but I don't
want to use a non-stock bolt (rounded top) for the install. I have the
5/16 fine thread 6 sided nut. Does anyone know a way to weld that to a
square size frame???

Or, has anyone made a square from steel stock of the correct dimensions
and thickness and drilled and tapped the right thread.

I really do not want to install the course square nut and have two
different mounting bolts. Also check with TRF and they do not have a
supplier, but would be interested in one if anyone knows one.
Thanks in advance!
Hardtopless in Orlando
Jim Henningsen
75 TR6 CF35914U

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sat May 10 15:02:32 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 14:02:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
In-Reply-To: <8677-482600F0-2384@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net>
References: <8677-482600F0-2384@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <p06240803c44bbc60f894@[98.224.22.215]>

Or goto   http://www.mcmaster.com

They have them and will ship small quantities ... look for square weld nuts ...
-- 
Bill Pugh
anabil007@ comcast.net
Wallace,  CA

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat May 10 15:39:01 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 17:39:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
In-Reply-To: <p06240803c44bbc60f894@[98.224.22.215]>
Message-ID: <20080510213857.MBQX720.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@TRGUY>

Dick and Bill:
Thanks for your responses.  McMaster does have square weld nuts
(5/16"x24)for $7.75 per 50 - Part Number: 93975A220.  It looks like the
measurements will be about the same as the original nut so I will give it a
shot before creating my own with the drill and tap.  If it works, the NUTS
are on me, excluding shipping of course, for those who need a couple.  I'll
keep you posted on the progress.

Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
75 TR6 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & AnnaBelle [mailto:anabil007 at comcast.net] 
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 5:03 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor; James Henningsen
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question

Or goto   http://www.mcmaster.com

They have them and will ship small quantities ... look for square weld nuts
...
-- 
Bill Pugh
anabil007@ comcast.net
Wallace,  CA

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat May 10 22:38:23 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 10 May 2008 21:38:23 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
In-Reply-To: "James Henningsen" <trguy@cfl.rr.com>'s message of Sat, 10
	May 2008 17:39:01 -0400
Message-ID: <14170-4826783F-5628@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net>

Jim---Call TRF and tell them you'll sell them a few dozen of these.
Cover your expenses!

Dick

E-mail message

From: trguy at cfl.rr.com(James Henningsen)

Dick and Bill:
Thanks for your responses. McMaster does have square weld nuts
(5/16"x24)for $7.75 per 50 - Part Number: 93975A220. It looks like the
measurements will be about the same as the original nut so I will give
it a shot before creating my own with the drill and tap. If it works,
the NUTS are on me, excluding shipping of course, for those who need a
couple. I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
75 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & AnnaBelle [mailto:anabil007 at comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 5:03 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor; James Henningsen
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
Or goto   http://www.mcmaster.com
They have them and will ship small quantities ... look for square weld
nuts
...
--
Bill Pugh
anabil007@ comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From otral at juno.com  Sun May 11 05:37:48 2008
From: otral at juno.com (alan g graffam)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 07:37:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Flexible spray paint
Message-ID: <20080511.073749.2848.0.otral@juno.com>

I've found an excellent product to touch up my faded top - SEM Color Coat
flexible coating.  It's guaranteed not to crack or peel with normal
usage.  Has anyone done the same with their convertible top?  What have
been your results? 

It gave my vinyl top that brand new look with looking obvious - satin
black.

Al Graffam  '74 French Blue in CT

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sun May 11 07:13:22 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 09:13:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Flexible spray paint
In-Reply-To: <20080511.073749.2848.0.otral@juno.com>
References: <20080511.073749.2848.0.otral@juno.com>
Message-ID: <4826F0F2.7010308@roadrunner.com>

Alan,

I have not used this particular product, but SEM is one of the (rare) 
quality suppliers I trust. If you followed the prep instructions it 
should work well for you I would think. The trick is for the surface to 
be clean, clean, clean. I use vinyl dyes with good result IF the prep is 
done right.

I have used the SEM Trim Black for all the satin black parts like window 
frames and wiper arms. It is excellent paint,  goes on fantastic and is 
very UV resistant..

Good luck, and be sure to follow up with more info down the road for 
better or worse!

J

alan g graffam wrote:
> I've found an excellent product to touch up my faded top - SEM Color Coat
> flexible coating.  It's guaranteed not to crack or peel with normal
> usage.  Has anyone done the same with their convertible top?  What have
> been your results? 
>
> It gave my vinyl top that brand new look with looking obvious - satin
> black.
>
> Al Graffam  '74 French Blue in CT
> _______________________________________________

From trmarty at hotmail.com  Sun May 11 07:34:34 2008
From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 09:34:34 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TRF Summer Party
Message-ID: <BAY123-W8B5AAE1138AEE7CB3D8D0BACD0@phx.gbl>

I see on the weekly TRF email that they are pushing for registrations. I guess
as of now there are not enough people signed up to have the Summer Party so if
you are thinking about attending you might want to sign up.

Marty

_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
messenger_052008

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun May 11 08:27:35 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 10:27:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
In-Reply-To: <14170-4826783F-5628@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <20080511142758.SLQM28475.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY>

Dick:
Sounds like a good plan! Thanks for all your help (as usual)
Best,
Jim

-----Original Message-----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net]
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 12:38 AM
To: James Henningsen
Cc: 'Bill & AnnaBelle'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question

Jim---Call TRF and tell them you'll sell them a few dozen of these.
Cover your expenses!

Dick

E-mail message

From: trguy at cfl.rr.com(James Henningsen)

Dick and Bill:
Thanks for your responses. McMaster does have square weld nuts
(5/16"x24)for $7.75 per 50 - Part Number: 93975A220. It looks like the
measurements will be about the same as the original nut so I will give
it a shot before creating my own with the drill and tap. If it works,
the NUTS are on me, excluding shipping of course, for those who need a
couple. I'll keep you posted on the progress.
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
75 TR6
-----Original Message-----
From: Bill & AnnaBelle [mailto:anabil007 at comcast.net]
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 5:03 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor; James Henningsen
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question
Or goto   http://www.mcmaster.com
They have them and will ship small quantities ... look for square weld
nuts
...
--
Bill Pugh
anabil007@ comcast.net
Wallace, CA

From tr250 at mindspring.com  Sun May 11 09:26:11 2008
From: tr250 at mindspring.com (Mark Walker)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:26:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Preview of Trials route
Message-ID: <000001c8b37b$57f480d0$07dd8270$@com>

http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=prerunning+6-pack+trials+2008
<http://video.google.com/videosearch?q=prerunning+6-pack+trials+2008&hl=en&s
itesearch> &hl=en&sitesearch=

 

Preparing for the Trials I preran one of the routes yesterday after the
Blount British Car Show.  Two brief videos are available on Google Videos.
I also uploaded to You Tube but I had problems pulling it back up.
Keywords are Prerunning Little River Road 6-Pack Trials 2008.

 

Mark Walker

From tr6greg at fuse.net  Sun May 11 09:32:18 2008
From: tr6greg at fuse.net (Greg Donegan)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:32:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Flexible spray paint
In-Reply-To: <20080511.073749.2848.0.otral@juno.com>
Message-ID: <MHEDIEAPDEKFJGAHFHDIIEAIEFAA.tr6greg@fuse.net>

I used it years ago on my convertible top cover, and it lasted for about 5
years before it began to peel just a bit where it was folded in half while
stored in the boot when not in use.  I touched it up and it was back to
looking like new.  I've since bought a new top cover and still have the old
one stored, and it looks great 6 years later, unfolded.

Greg Donegan
72 TR6  CC82492UO
Hebron, KY

6-Pack National Chair

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+tr6greg=fuse.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+tr6greg=fuse.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of alan
g graffam
Sent: Sunday, May 11, 2008 7:38 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Flexible spray paint


I've found an excellent product to touch up my faded top - SEM Color Coat
flexible coating.  It's guaranteed not to crack or peel with normal
usage.  Has anyone done the same with their convertible top?  What have
been your results?

It gave my vinyl top that brand new look with looking obvious - satin
black.

Al Graffam  '74 French Blue in CT
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6greg at fuse.net


--
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.15/1426 - Release Date: 5/10/2008
11:12 AM

From jmitch at snet.net  Sun May 11 09:51:27 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 11:51:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Green stuff brake pads
Message-ID: <482715FF.5070809@snet.net>

   I just replaced my old green stuff brake pads with new ones.  Then 
new ones came with what is called a break in coating and rubber type 
anti squeal pads that are applied to the back.  With the old ones I used 
the steel anti squeal shims.  I just went for a ride and I can hear them 
lightly scuffing the sides if disc which goes away with increasing speed.
I never noticed this with the old pads when new.  There's no squeal, 
just the scuffing sound.  Is this the sound of the break in coating and 
does it just have to be driven a while for it to go away?  Thanks 
again,  John Mitchell  76 Tr6

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Sun May 11 10:53:40 2008
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 12:53:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] It runs!
Message-ID: <49f668fe0805110953v379ef07fxc13a5cf994381e37@mail.gmail.com>

My rebuilt engine is in the car and came to life immediately, runs
like a top!   It's been a year in process, many lessons learned, but
feels pretty good.    With the bottom end balanced, GP2 cam, alloy
flywheel, and port work, it is very responsive, feels like it has
lotsa pizzaz.   Idles well at 900, will try lower as I get the tuning
completed.

Thanks for all the help, couldn't have done it without you - wouldn't
even have attempted it.   This list really keeps us mobile.

John North

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sun May 11 11:19:45 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 13:19:45 EDT
Subject: [6pack] It runs!
Message-ID: <bc7.22a00d50.355884b1@cs.com>

Congratulations John! 

Always amazing feedback with the noise of all cylinders firing.

I have one engine on the stand, scheduled for installation sometime this 
summer.

Looking forward to it. This one may be the one that runs at Watkins Glen in 
September.

Headwork & Intake Manifold done by 'Uncle Jack' in Geneseo, IL
Cam is custom formula by Larry Young in Tulsa, OK
Crank Scraper and Windage Tray by Ishihara-Johnson.
Velocity Stacks by Kas Kastner  mfgd by A.R.E.
Connecting Rods are aftermarket Chevrolet.
Flywheel, Heatshield, Engine Plate and other cool stuff by A.R.E.  :-)

I have not unpackaged the Plate sent back.

I did send a refund check.

Regards,

Joe


> My rebuilt engine is in the car and came to life immediately, runs
> like a top!   It's been a year in process, many lessons learned, but
> feels pretty good.    With the bottom end balanced, GP2 cam, alloy
> flywheel, and port work, it is very responsive, feels like it has
> lotsa pizzaz.   Idles well at 900, will try lower as I get the tuning
> completed.
> 
> Thanks for all the help, couldn't have done it without you - wouldn't
> even have attempted it.   This list really keeps us mobile.
> 
> John North
> 

   </HTML>

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun May 11 13:18:14 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 12:18:14 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters
Message-ID: <905047.6491.qm@web51411.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

   I know this has been discussed before but when you learn something the
   hard way you feel like you should share your misery.  Soooo.  I bought
   a new clutch master cylinder for the 69 I recently purchased and
   am reserrecting after it sat for 17 years.  After getting the new MC I
   decided to put it on my 1970 and put a rebuilt one from my 70 on the
   69.  The .75 MC and clutch combo works much better as the old MC that
   wasn't getting all of the hydraulic pressure to the slave.  However, I
   discovered that the 1969 clutch MC with the .75 inch diameter piston
   is much harder to depress than the .70 inch piston I previously had in
   the 1970 (VIN number after about CC53,000).  I may just yank the new
   .75 MC on my 1970 and rebuild an old .70 inch MC that I have lying
   around.

   Considering the improvement (my personal preference) of the .70 over
   the harder to depress .75 inch clutch MC is there any other reason
   why we shouldn't recommend the .70 inch clutch MC to our listers?

   Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 Panasports and OD; 1969 TR 6 wire wheels and
   OD
     _________________________________________________________________

   Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try
   it now.

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun May 11 18:55:57 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 17:55:57 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters
In-Reply-To: michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>'s message of Sun,
	11 May 2008 12:18:14 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <15519-4827959D-717@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net>

 Mike---You discovered why Triumph changed from the .75 to the .70, that
is pushing more fluid takes more pedal pressure to activate the clutch.
One of the tradeoffs for using the smaller bore is that there isn't much
room for play in the pedal box linkage before the clutch won't
completely disengage. This may be an area that you'll want to tighten up
before going back to the .70 MC.

There is also supposed to be different fittings for the two MC output
pipes.

Dick

From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com(michael lunsford)

Master Cylinder diameters
      I know this has been discussed before but when you
learn something the   hard way you feel like you should share your
misery. Soooo. I bought   a new clutch master cylinder for the 69 I
recently purchased and   am reserrecting after it sat for 17 years.
After getting the new MC I   decided to put it on my 1970 and put a
rebuilt one from my 70 on the
      69. The .75 MC and clutch combo works much better as
the old MC that   wasn't getting all of the hydraulic pressure to the
slave. However, I   discovered that the 1969 clutch MC with the .75
inch diameter piston   is much harder to depress than the .70 inch
piston I previously had in   the 1970 (VIN number after about
CC53,000). I may just yank the new   .75 MC on my 1970 and rebuild an
old .70 inch MC that I have lying   around.
      Considering the improvement (my personal preference)
of the .70 over   the harder to depress .75 inch clutch MC is there
any other reason   why we shouldn't recommend the .70 inch clutch MC
to our listers?
      Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 Panasports and OD; 1969 TR 6
wire wheels and   OD
          ____________________________________

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun May 11 19:09:31 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 11 May 2008 18:09:31 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Green stuff brake pads
In-Reply-To: John Mitchell <jmitch@snet.net>'s message of Sun, 11 May
	2008 11:51:27 -0400
Message-ID: <15517-482798CB-3075@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net>

John M.---It's possible that your discs have worn more on the outer
edges. (From more rotational speed) The old pads may have worn to match
this taper. New pads, which are "square", could be dragging on their
edges. Measure the pads you took out to see if they're worn tapered. If
so, the new pads will run in before long. Otherwise, a truing of the
discs could be in order.

You can sort of test this theory as to what may be going on. With the
car stopped, or slightly moving, turn your steering wheel from L to R
and R to L. This should knock the pads back so they don't drag when
tested with the next drive.

Dick

 From: jmitch at snet.net(John Mitchell)

      I just replaced my old green stuff brake pads with new
ones. Then new ones came with what is called a break in coating and
rubber type anti squeal pads that are applied to the back. With the old
ones I used the steel anti squeal shims. I just went for a ride and I
can hear them lightly scuffing the sides if disc which goes away with
increasing speed. I never noticed this with the old pads when new.
There's no squeal, just the scuffing sound. Is this the sound of the
break in coating and does it just have to be driven a while for it to go
away? Thanks again, John Mitchell 76 Tr6
______________________________________

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 06:54:08 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:54:08 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters
In-Reply-To: <15519-4827959D-717@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net>
References: michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>'s message of Sun,
	11 May 2008 12:18:14 -0700 (PDT) 
	<15519-4827959D-717@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W9F60F90B09EEA57870F9F8ECC0@phx.gbl>

Interesting thread, but I don't quite follow the specs. The clutch on my 69
has always been very stiff, which after 20+ years I really like. The clutch on
my brother's 73 is almost (for lack of a better description) Toyota'ish. I
have difficulty getting my left leg to release his clutch because I'm so used
to mine.

So, is a 69 'suppose' to have such a stiff clutch because of this difference
in the bore? I've had both ends replaced but I have no idea what size I have.
If the .75's are rare, I'd be surprised if that's what I actually still have.

Sloane :)
69-Six> > Mike---You discovered why Triumph changed from the .75 to the .70,
that> is pushing more fluid takes more pedal pressure to activate the clutch.>
One of the tradeoffs for using the smaller bore is that there isn't much> room
for play in the pedal box linkage before the clutch won't> completely
disengage. This may be an area that you'll want to tighten up> before going
back to the .70 MC.> > There is also supposed to be different fittings for the
two MC output> pipes.> > Dick>
_________________________________________________________________
Get Free (PRODUCT) RED  Emoticons, Winks and Display Pics.
http://joinred.spaces.live.com?ocid=TXT_HMTG_prodredemoticons_052008

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon May 12 08:05:46 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 10:05:46 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W9F60F90B09EEA57870F9F8ECC0@phx.gbl>
References: michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>'s message of Sun,
	11 May 2008 12:18:14 -0700 (PDT) 
	<15519-4827959D-717@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net>
	<BLU118-W9F60F90B09EEA57870F9F8ECC0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805120954290.16372@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

The early TR6's had a .75 bore clutch MC. They were "heavy", meaning you 
need more leg power to push and hold the clutch. At some point (I can't 
recall when, but I'll guess at CC50000) the factory switched to a .70 bore 
clutch MC. This setup feels "lighter" meaning not as much leg pressure is 
required to push the pedal down.

The .75 replacement clutch MCs got very expensive due to an imbalance 
between supply and demand. This is odd because there weren't as many early 
cars made as the later cars (69's account for less than 1/8 or total 
production or TR6). It's doubly odd when you consider that you can buy a 
generic hyrdraulic Girling MC from a variety of sources for fairly cheap 
money. But a lot of Triumph enthusiasts that are looking for exact 
replacement seem to gravitate to the places that charge more for the 
parts...

The wierd thing about all the TR6 hydraulics is that they use a wierd 
pedal ratio. I can't recall exactly, but 9:1 pedal motion pops into my 
thoughts on the matter. I recently (2 years ago) switched my race car 
hydraulics from the stock setup to a Wilwood / Tilton setup (you can buy 
this stuff at most race shops) and the resulting clutch setup is very easy 
on the leg. As part of this process, I dumped the vacuum assist stock 
brake MC and I was concerned at how much pedal pressure would be needed to 
lock up the brakes - they work BETTER with the new setup!

But back to the point - if you're looking for period correctness, you go 
with scarce as hen's teeth clutch MC or you go to alternate supply houses 
to get a "deal" on a .75 MC or you do what 99% of the DPO's out there have 
done and switch to th e.70 clutch MC.

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 12 08:30:47 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 07:30:47 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats
In-Reply-To: <48257B2E.2030002@snet.net>
References: <48257B2E.2030002@snet.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BE98AE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	John:

	If you did not already know this, the Lucas fuses are rated
differently than US made fuses. The British use the DIN standard
(German) while US fuses use the UL (Underwriter's Laboratory) standard.
British fuses must be derated by 40-50% to get an equivalent UL rating.
So the Lucas fuse is roughly a 17-20 amp US fuse. So your 10 amp fuse
should let go first, as you have stated.

		Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Mitchell
Sent: Saturday, May 10, 2008 3:39 AM
To: 6 Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Ruining rheostats

   Thanks again to all that helped on this one.  I never did find
exactly what the cause was(is), but I noted that gauge lights for the
speedometer were stretched pretty tight, so I rerouted those.  I decided

to leave the rheostat jumper in place for now, but added an inline fuse
that I can get to easily.  Hopefully if the short re-occurs( and you
know it will), that fuse will let go and all I'll lose is my gauge
lights and not my taillights.  I used a 10 amp acg for the inline which
should go before the 35 amp Lucas.   John Mitchell  76 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 12 09:40:13 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 08:40:13 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805120954290.16372@isis.mit.edu>
References: michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>'s message of
	Sun,11 May 2008 12:18:14 -0700 (PDT)
	<15519-4827959D-717@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net><BLU118-W9F60F90B09EEA57870F9F8ECC0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805120954290.16372@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BE9979@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	rml:

	Add to the clutch MC machinations the fact that there have been
numerous substitutions and cross references for the pressure plate on
the TR6. The early TR6 clutch used the Borg and Beck pressure plate
"yellow spot" design, later TR used the Laycock design (no longer
available except rebuilt) which is alleged to have been very light
indeed. Years later, B&B dropped the yellow spot and started
recommending the stiffer "blue spot" which was from a Ford Van, but some
people mistakenly started using the "green spot" clutch which even
stiffer than the blue spot.
	Add to this the fact that people use Sachs pressure plates (I
have no idea where those fit in the spectrum of pressure plates) and you
have a very convoluted issue.
	I was lucky, I found a NOS yellow spot B&B setup, which combined
with the 0.70" MC on my car yields a very light clutch that engages
halfway off the floor. Perfect. My LBC mechanic commented that it was
the lightest TR6 clutch he had ever driven.
	And of course, the stiffer the pressure plate, the more wear on
the thrust washers every time you depress the clutch pedal. So many
issues stem from the choice of pressure plate and clutch MC.

	Cheers,

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Lang
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 7:06 AM
To: im sloane
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters

Hi,

The early TR6's had a .75 bore clutch MC. They were "heavy", meaning you

need more leg power to push and hold the clutch. At some point (I can't
recall when, but I'll guess at CC50000) the factory switched to a .70
bore
clutch MC. This setup feels "lighter" meaning not as much leg pressure
is
required to push the pedal down.

<snip>

But back to the point - if you're looking for period correctness, you go

with scarce as hen's teeth clutch MC or you go to alternate supply
houses
to get a "deal" on a .75 MC or you do what 99% of the DPO's out there
have
done and switch to th e.70 clutch MC.

c ya,
rml

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon May 12 11:59:55 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 17:59:55 +0000
Subject: [6pack] DPDT on-off-on rocker switch for electric fan conversion
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I'm converting to an electric fan and the design I like the best is the one
with the option to switch between on, off and auto and this requires a DPDT
switch that has an on-off-on mode. An illuminating switch would be icing on
the cake. Since the switch is only powering a relay it can be small, although
the 6 terminals on the back will constrain how small it can be.

I have searched the web, visited Radio Shack etc and failed to come up with
anything suitable. There are dpdt on-off-on rocker switches but they are all
larger than what I want and designed for 110 or 240v appliances etc.

I wonder if anyone that has gone down this path and has come up with anything
suitable ?

Plan B, there are a ton of spst illuminated rocker switches out there, I'm
using one for my fog lamps, I wonder if there is a way to re-do the fan
circuit to use one of those, perhaps combining the Auto and Off modes by
powering the relay through the ignition (ignition on - Auto, ignition off -
Off) and using the switch to force the fan on (also only when the ignition is
on so that I don't create an ignition bypass switch..). I'm a software guy so
I'm a  bit out of my depth here..

Stan

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May 12 13:01:09 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 15:01:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] DPDT on-off-on rocker switch for electric fan conversion
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <000001c8b462$8b971c30$210110ac@bobspc>

Stan,
I did the DPDT fan switch but used a toggle that's mounted under the dash
with two other switches (http://tinyurl.com/4vvs28).  Seeing as it's left in
the auto mode 99.9% of the time, you really don't need to see it. That's
assuming that the cooling system is doing it job 99.9% of the time ;-)I also
wired it so that the dash EGR light comes on when the fan is turning. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 2:00 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] DPDT on-off-on rocker switch for electric fan conversion

I'm converting to an electric fan and the design I like the best is the one
with the option to switch between on, off and auto and this requires a DPDT
switch that has an on-off-on mode. An illuminating switch would be icing on
the cake. Since the switch is only powering a relay it can be small,
although the 6 terminals on the back will constrain how small it can be.

I have searched the web, visited Radio Shack etc and failed to come up with
anything suitable. There are dpdt on-off-on rocker switches but they are all
larger than what I want and designed for 110 or 240v appliances etc.

I wonder if anyone that has gone down this path and has come up with
anything suitable ?

Plan B, there are a ton of spst illuminated rocker switches out there, I'm
using one for my fog lamps, I wonder if there is a way to re-do the fan
circuit to use one of those, perhaps combining the Auto and Off modes by
powering the relay through the ignition (ignition on - Auto, ignition off -
Off) and using the switch to force the fan on (also only when the ignition
is on so that I don't create an ignition bypass switch..). I'm a software
guy so I'm a  bit out of my depth here..

Stan
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
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1:08 PM

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 12 13:02:19 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:02:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] DPDT on-off-on rocker switch for electric fan conversion
Message-ID: <155254.75640.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

try searching Digi-key or Allied.

http://www.digikey.com/
http://www.alliedelec.com/


----- Original Message ----
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:59:55 AM
Subject: [6pack] DPDT on-off-on rocker switch for electric fan conversion

I'm converting to an electric fan and the design I like the best is the one
with the option to switch between on, off and auto and this requires a DPDT
switch that has an on-off-on mode. An illuminating switch would be icing on
the cake. Since the switch is only powering a relay it can be small, although
the 6 terminals on the back will constrain how small it can be.

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Mon May 12 13:02:16 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 15:02:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Heater water return pipe question
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40805121202o79bdb729ybbb3225e516c2e7f@mail.gmail.com>

I have a question for the group that comes from my father.  He started
to replace the heater water return pipe on his TR6.  Where the end of
the pipe connects to the waterpump there are two nuts (a smaller
diameter nut that appears to screw into a larger diameter nut).  He
started to remove the old heater water return pipe by loosening up the
larger nut and then went to loosen up the smaller nut.  When turning
the smaller nut, it caused the entire heater water return pipe to
rotate.

Now understand that my father and I are on completely opposite ends of
the spectrum.  I'm the one who jumps in and starts turning wrenches,
then takes two weeks to figure out how to fix what he did wrong.  My
dad, on the other hand, is the one who likes to take two weeks
contemplating the best way to handle the situation, then takes another
two weeks of reflection just to make sure he is thinking about the
problem correctly, and then, after determining he has reached the
right answer, take a final two weeks to figure out how to best
implement his answer.

So with that in mind, my dad is hesitant to keep turning the smaller
nut out of fear that he might damage something in the waterpump.  My
thought is that those two nuts probably squeeze the end of the pipe
and create some sort of compressed fitting and either there is just a
natural tight connection between the smaller nut and the pipe which
causes the pipe to turn with the nut or there is enough rust built up
between the two there there is a bond.  Thoughts?

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6

-- 
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon May 12 13:35:18 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 19:35:18 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Heater water return pipe question
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40805121202o79bdb729ybbb3225e516c2e7f@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40805121202o79bdb729ybbb3225e516c2e7f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149DE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

John, if I am understanding you correctly it sounds like you are trying to
remove the adapter that is screwed into the water pump housing instead of just
loosening the nut that is part of the compression fitting for the water return
pipe. If you follow the pipe from left to right the first nut you meet is a
thinner nut that provides the compression for the joint. The next thing you
meet is the short adapter into the water pump housing. You only need to back
the first thinner nut to disconnect the pipe from that adapter. If the pipe is
turning when you do that it is probably just seized/binding as that nut should
rotate freely. Once you back off that nut you will see the compression fitting
on the end of the pipe and the whole shebang should pull free of the adapter.

There are stainless versions of that return pipe available if yours is too far
gone.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
VanNorman
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 3:02 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] Heater water return pipe question

I have a question for the group that comes from my father.  He started
to replace the heater water return pipe on his TR6.  Where the end of
the pipe connects to the waterpump there are two nuts (a smaller
diameter nut that appears to screw into a larger diameter nut).  He
started to remove the old heater water return pipe by loosening up the
larger nut and then went to loosen up the smaller nut.  When turning
the smaller nut, it caused the entire heater water return pipe to
rotate.

Now understand that my father and I are on completely opposite ends of
the spectrum.  I'm the one who jumps in and starts turning wrenches,
then takes two weeks to figure out how to fix what he did wrong.  My
dad, on the other hand, is the one who likes to take two weeks
contemplating the best way to handle the situation, then takes another
two weeks of reflection just to make sure he is thinking about the
problem correctly, and then, after determining he has reached the
right answer, take a final two weeks to figure out how to best
implement his answer.

So with that in mind, my dad is hesitant to keep turning the smaller
nut out of fear that he might damage something in the waterpump.  My
thought is that those two nuts probably squeeze the end of the pipe
and create some sort of compressed fitting and either there is just a
natural tight connection between the smaller nut and the pipe which
causes the pipe to turn with the nut or there is enough rust built up
between the two there there is a bond.  Thoughts?

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon May 12 13:46:10 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 12:46:10 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters
In-Reply-To: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>'s message of Mon, 12 May
	2008 12:54:08 +0000
Message-ID: <15517-48289E82-3567@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net>

 Sloane---Yes, the '69 is supposed to be stiffer, due to the larger CMC
bore. But not so much that driving a TR with the smaller bore.seems odd.
If you haven't "looked at" the clutch fork pin lately I'd suspect that
it is broken, as this can cause a heavy feel right at the bottom of the
pedal stroke. If you want to actually measure the pedal pressure
necessary to disengage the clutch, give me a shout and I'll pass the
method on to you.

Dick

 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com(im sloane)

Interesting thread, but I don't quite follow the specs. The clutch on my
69 has always been very stiff, which after 20+ years I really like. The
clutch on my brother's 73 is almost (for lack of a better description)
Toyota'ish. I have difficulty getting my left leg to release his clutch
because I'm so used to mine.

So, is a 69 'suppose' to have such a stiff clutch because of this
difference in the bore? I've had both ends replaced but I have no idea
what size I have. If the .75's are rare, I'd be surprised if that's what
I actually still have.
Sloane :)
69-Six> >

Mike---You discovered why Triumph changed from the .75 to the .70, that>
is pushing more fluid takes more pedal pressure to activate the clutch.>
One of the tradeoffs for using the smaller bore is that there isn't
much> room for play in the pedal box linkage before the clutch won't>
completely disengage. This may be an area that you'll want to tighten
up> before going back to the .70 MC.> > There is also supposed to be
different fittings for the two MC output> pipes.> > Dick>
______________________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May 12 14:02:14 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 16:02:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
Message-ID: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc>

I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn off......unless I pull the
pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I stick my head in the foot
well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it wants to come back that
last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The spring is good. The only
thing different is a rebuilt servo. Does this indicate a bad or failing
switch? I remember a thread on here last year about a better quality
replacement switch. I think it was from a Honda. Does anyone have the info
on that?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Mon May 12 16:45:26 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 18:45:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Alternate Connecting Rods
References: <c57.311e45f7.355a20cc@cs.com>
Message-ID: <020d01c8b481$df2872d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71>

Boy, that is NEAT!!!! I am always amazed at the ingenuity of the folks on this
list ... I'm guessing I didn't look closely enough in my enthusiasm to find a
GM rod for the TR6!

I wonder if anyone else has done the legwork to look at alternate rods for the
6-cylinder engine?

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: N197TR4 at cs.com
  To: triumph at 2simpleusa.com
  Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 6:38 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] It runs!


  In a message dated 5/12/2008 5:05:50 PM Central Daylight Time,
triumph at 2simpleusa.com writes:



    Joe,

    I'm intrigued by the reference to the GM connecting rods ... which ones
can
    be used in a TR6?

    Thanks,



  Good question.  I am not aware of any research into alternative rods. for
TR6.

  This is for the TR3/4 Rods  that are 6.250 on centers

  Pin bushing is changed to .875
  Thrust washers are made for pin end to centralize the rod with the piston.
  Crank is reground to match Chevy Rod Clevite 777 shells.

  Certainly cheaper than Carillos and quite adequate for the HP & RPM
requirements.

  I thought it was a pretty clever thing to do. With the help of Uncle Jack.

  Joe Alexander
  the-vintage-racer.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon May 12 16:51:10 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:51:10 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bob, Re the switch, below is one recent thread. I tried to buy one of these SL
310's the other day at my local NAPA store in Nashua, NH. They wanted over $20
which I might have agreed to had they not also told me that I would have to
pay the UPS charges to have it shipped to the store. I decided to go for the
$6 cheap plastic switch from Moss and try not to use the brakes as much in
future :-).

Stan



-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 8:03 AM
To: Foster, Stan; trdoctor at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net;
6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Brake Switch

NAPA still has them under that part number SL310 for about $25 but Moss
lists the TR6 brake light switch for $6. I guess I missed that whole thread
about the switch.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Saturday, October 13, 2007 12:56 AM
To: trdoctor at aol.com; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Brake Switch

There was quite a bit of traffic on this topic but I recall that this NAPA
part number was mentioned:

Stan


In a message dated 7/31/2007 9:24:24 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
emanteno at comcast.net writes:

The  NAPA/Echlin part number for the Honda brake light switch is SL310. I
have had  one in my car since 1998. When I bought it, it was a stock part at
my NAPA.
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 4:02 PM
To: 'Triumphs'; 'Triumph'
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch

I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn off......unless I pull the
pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I stick my head in the foot
well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it wants to come back that
last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The spring is good. The only
thing different is a rebuilt servo. Does this indicate a bad or failing
switch? I remember a thread on here last year about a better quality
replacement switch. I think it was from a Honda. Does anyone have the info
on that?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon May 12 17:54:08 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 19:54:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E2@GVW0414X.americ
	as.hpqcorp.net>
References: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <20080512235405.UHFH4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 06:51 PM 5/12/2008, Foster, Stan wrote:
>Bob, Re the switch, below is one recent thread. I tried to buy one of these SL
>310's the other day at my local NAPA store in Nashua, NH. They wanted over $20

I don't know if the TR6 switch is the same as the Spitfire, but 
here's some parts to check, from 
<http://www.triumphspitfire.com/substitute.html> :

brake light switch:

73 Chevy Nova switch

Go to ANY Auto Parts store and ask for a 73 (non-cruise control) 
Chevy Nova switch. They make two, one that is metal and the other is 
plastic. Less than $10.00. It works great but you do need to shave 
off part of the threads, like it is on the OEM unit, so it will fit.


Datsun 310         Brake light switch fits without modification

1977-1981 Chevy Luv Truck    Direct replacement but will have to 
crimp new ends on it.


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From PeterSchop at aol.com  Mon May 12 19:27:43 2008
From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 21:27:43 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Replacing oil pan gasket
Message-ID: <c71.2f89839e.355a488f@aol.com>

While I have the body off the frame on my TR6, I thought I would try  to 
tackle some of the oil leaks starting with the oil pan gasket. When I bought  the 
car a couple of years ago, the PO told me that one of the oil pan bolts was  
striped out. I will find out soon which one.
 
What is the best way to replace the pan gasket and what kind of gaskets are  
out there. Is there a silicone gasket or should I just buy a standard gasket  
from TRF or Moss? Is Hylomar the best sealant to use?
 
TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
TR6 '69



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon May 12 20:22:11 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 02:22:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Replacing oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <c71.2f89839e.355a488f@aol.com>
References: <c71.2f89839e.355a488f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E6@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

In my experience the standard gasket with a thin film of hylomar works well.
If a bolt has stripped it is probably in the front where two of the sump bolts
go into an aluminium block. There are a few longer bolts that go through the
reinforced sections at the rear and if one of these end up at the front there
is a danger of stripping the threads in the sealing block in an attempt to
tighten them. Any stripped threads can be repaired with helicoils or similar.

Stan.


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:28 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Replacing oil pan gasket

While I have the body off the frame on my TR6, I thought I would try  to
tackle some of the oil leaks starting with the oil pan gasket. When I bought
the
car a couple of years ago, the PO told me that one of the oil pan bolts was
striped out. I will find out soon which one.

What is the best way to replace the pan gasket and what kind of gaskets are
out there. Is there a silicone gasket or should I just buy a standard gasket
from TRF or Moss? Is Hylomar the best sealant to use?

TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
TR6 '69

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May 12 20:26:42 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 22:26:42 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <c71.2f89839e.355a488f@aol.com>
References: <c71.2f89839e.355a488f@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000701c8b4a0$cb3c8fd0$210110ac@bobspc>

Peter,
I used the stock gasket with Ultra-black on each side. At the front and
back, the bolts go into an aluminum block that is prone to stripping. You
might want to insert Keene-Serts or Heli-coils to get a good tight seal.
Having said all of that I doubt we can ever prevent oil from seeping out of
our engines.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:28 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket

While I have the body off the frame on my TR6, I thought I would try  to
tackle some of the oil leaks starting with the oil pan gasket. When I bought
the car a couple of years ago, the PO told me that one of the oil pan bolts
was striped out. I will find out soon which one.
 
What is the best way to replace the pan gasket and what kind of gaskets are
out there. Is there a silicone gasket or should I just buy a standard gasket
from TRF or Moss? Is Hylomar the best sealant to use?
 
TIA,
Peter Schoppelry
TR6 '69



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)
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From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon May 12 20:30:35 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 02:30:35 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <000401c8b489$a94d16e0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000701c8b46b$1471ecd0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<000401c8b489$a94d16e0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149E7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bob, no worries, while most of us have suffered the ravages of alcohol and
time, the collective memory of this list is formidable.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 7:41 PM
To: Foster, Stan; 'Triumphs'; 'Triumph'
Subject: RE: [6pack] Brake Light Switch

Geeze Stan....how bad am I.....I'm asking the List about a part and you've
got an email that I sent to the List with the part# that I'm now asking
about. I really need a better filing system as the memory is obviously shot.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon May 12 20:43:22 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 02:43:22 +0000
Subject: [6pack] red 360 degree LED stop/tail lights
Message-ID: <BLU118-W711E7E9DBACBFB0C66D248ECF0@phx.gbl>

Hey guys,
Today I received my ordered Red 360 degree 1157 LED bulbs. What a great little
upgrade. Very much brighter and fills up the lens great. In preparation I
cleaned all the lenses this past weekend for the first time in 20 years. I'm
sure they'd be even better if I were to paint the inside shell silver or
chrome. Mine are just white, now that 20 years of oil/smoke residue is
removed. Don't pay too much for these. I got them for $5/ea buy-it-now price.
I love a great 'hidden' upgrade like this.

Sloane :)
69-Six
_________________________________________________________________
Stay in touch when you're away with Windows Live Messenger.
http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_
messenger_052008

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue May 13 00:26:41 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:26:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message
	of Mon, 12 May 2008 16:02:14 -0400
Message-ID: <14939-482934A1-3942@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>

Bob---Since your brake light switch works as designed (when you pull the
pedal back) you can probably adjust the one you have. Note that there
are two adjusting nuts that control the depth of the switch relative to
the pedal.. Just move the switch away from the pedal a tad.

Dick

E-mail message

 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson

I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn off......unless I pull
the pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I stick my head in the
foot well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it wants to come
back that last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The spring is
good. The only thing different is a rebuilt servo. Does this indicate a
bad or failing switch? I remember a thread on here last year about a
better quality replacement switch. I think it was from a Honda. Does
anyone have the info on that?
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue May 13 00:54:27 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 12 May 2008 23:54:27 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)'s message of
	Mon, 12 May 2008 23:26:41 -0700
Message-ID: <14938-48293B23-8482@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>

Bob---Correction, please. The switch should be moved INTO the pedal to
turn it off, not away from it. (One of thse late night boondoggles)

Dick


 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net(Sally or Dick Taylor)

Bob---Since your brake light switch works as designed (when you pull the
pedal back) you can probably adjust the one you have. Note that there
are two adjusting nuts that control the depth of the switch relative to
the pedal.. Just move the switch away from the pedal a tad.
Dick
E-mail message
  From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson
I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn off......unless I pull
the pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I stick my head in the
foot well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it wants to come
back that last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The spring is
good. The only thing different is a rebuilt servo. Does this indicate a
bad or failing switch? I remember a thread on here last year about a
better quality replacement switch. I think it was from a Honda. Does
anyone have the info on that?
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Tue May 13 01:02:57 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 00:02:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
Message-ID: <562983.88828.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Bob,

If I recall correctly, the whole tab that the brake light switch is mounted on can be bent slightly with your bare hands, this quickly solves the problem with little fuss. 

Kendall
San Clemente, CA

----- Original Message ----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Cc: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 11:26:41 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Light Switch

Bob---Since your brake light switch works as designed (when you pull the
pedal back) you can probably adjust the one you have. Note that there
are two adjusting nuts that control the depth of the switch relative to
the pedal.. Just move the switch away from the pedal a tad.

Dick

E-mail message

From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson

I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn off......unless I pull
the pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I stick my head in the
foot well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it wants to come
back that last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The spring is
good. The only thing different is a rebuilt servo. Does this indicate a
bad or failing switch? I remember a thread on here last year about a
better quality replacement switch. I think it was from a Honda. Does
anyone have the info on that?
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net

From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl  Tue May 13 02:03:09 2008
From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 10:03:09 +0200
Subject: [6pack] Brake switch
Message-ID: <000f01c8b4cf$c9144d40$0701a8c0@CP1262290A>

Hello Bob, List,

Alternative to the TR or Honda switch is a BMW switch:

BMW Part-No.61 318 360 420

Big advantage of the Honda or BMW switch is that they are a whole lot more 
sturdy whilst fitting without modification.

(don't know if that BMW switch will come cheaper though)

Regards, Marc

(Netherlands &TR with BMW switch) 

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Tue May 13 04:21:17 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 06:21:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket
References: <c71.2f89839e.355a488f@aol.com>
	<000701c8b4a0$cb3c8fd0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <08a701c8b4e3$15b2bbb0$6401a8c0@STATION6>

As an additional thought to Bob's answer, after flattening/straightening all 
the bolt/screw holes in the pan, apply the Ultra-black to the pan and place 
the gasket on. Center accordingly and let sit over night until the silicone 
seals. This approach sets the gasket firm to the pan so you can easily move 
it and place it when ready. Then apply a bead to the block and attach making 
sure to torque to proper settings. This approach has been spelled out on the 
Buckeye site (I believe) for valve cover gaskets and works exceptionally 
well. I've used it for both gaskets on both my cars. It is much cleaner and 
will minimize the mess.
Alex Manzo
72 TR6
59 TR3A
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: <PeterSchop at aol.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 10:26 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket


> Peter,
> I used the stock gasket with Ultra-black on each side. At the front and
> back, the bolts go into an aluminum block that is prone to stripping. You
> might want to insert Keene-Serts or Heli-coils to get a good tight seal.
> Having said all of that I doubt we can ever prevent oil from seeping out 
> of
> our engines.
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of PeterSchop at aol.com
> Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 9:28 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
> Subject: [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket
>
> While I have the body off the frame on my TR6, I thought I would try  to
> tackle some of the oil leaks starting with the oil pan gasket. When I 
> bought
> the car a couple of years ago, the PO told me that one of the oil pan 
> bolts
> was striped out. I will find out soon which one.
>
> What is the best way to replace the pan gasket and what kind of gaskets 
> are
> out there. Is there a silicone gasket or should I just buy a standard 
> gasket
> from TRF or Moss? Is Hylomar the best sealant to use?
>
> TIA,
> Peter Schoppelry
> TR6 '69

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue May 13 05:00:03 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:00:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] red 360 degree LED stop/tail lights
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W711E7E9DBACBFB0C66D248ECF0@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU118-W711E7E9DBACBFB0C66D248ECF0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <482974B3.8020902@snet.net>

As an update to this, I tried the amber bulbs in my turn signals.  As 
reported earlier,  there's not enough resistance to operate the turn 
signal flasher, so an electronic type would have to be used.  There 
really was no improvement in brightness anyway, just a lighter colored 
yellow.  Not worth it in my opinion. John Mitchell  76 TR6

im sloane wrote:
> Hey guys,
> Today I received my ordered Red 360 degree 1157 LED bulbs. What a great little
> upgrade. Very much brighter and fills up the lens great. In preparation I
> cleaned all the lenses this past weekend for the first time in 20 years. I'm
> sure they'd be even better if I were to paint the inside shell silver or
> chrome. Mine are just white, now that 20 years of oil/smoke residue is
> removed. Don't pay too much for these. I got them for $5/ea buy-it-now price.
> I love a great 'hidden' upgrade like this.
>
> Sloane :)
> 69-Six

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Tue May 13 05:52:27 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 07:52:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Master Cylinder diameters
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BE9979@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>'s message of
	Sun,11 May 2008 12:18:14 -0700 (PDT)
	<15519-4827959D-717@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net><BLU118-W9F60F90B09EEA57870F9F8ECC0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805120954290.16372@isis.mit.edu>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03BE9979@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <482980FB.3090106@roadrunner.com>

Vance,

In my experience the Sachs plate is comparable in 'feel' to a Laycock. I 
never ran one for many miles, or with a super strong engine to give a 
longterm opinion on whether it is 'da bomb, however. I'll be using one 
on my next build.

Jim

Navarrette, Vance wrote:
>  	rml:
>
> 	Add to the clutch MC machinations the fact that there have been
> numerous substitutions and cross references for the pressure plate on
> the TR6. The early TR6 clutch used the Borg and Beck pressure plate
> "yellow spot" design, later TR used the Laycock design (no longer
> available except rebuilt) which is alleged to have been very light
> indeed. Years later, B&B dropped the yellow spot and started
> recommending the stiffer "blue spot" which was from a Ford Van, but some
> people mistakenly started using the "green spot" clutch which even
> stiffer than the blue spot.
> 	Add to this the fact that people use Sachs pressure plates (I
> have no idea where those fit in the spectrum of pressure plates) and you
> have a very convoluted issue.
> 	I was lucky, I found a NOS yellow spot B&B setup, which combined
> with the 0.70" MC on my car yields a very light clutch that engages
> halfway off the floor. Perfect. My LBC mechanic commented that it was
> the lightest TR6 clutch he had ever driven.
> 	And of course, the stiffer the pressure plate, the more wear on
> the thrust washers every time you depress the clutch pedal. So many
> issues stem from the choice of pressure plate and clutch MC.
>
> 	Cheers,
>
> 	Vance
>
>
>     Vance Navarrette
>     Cogito Ergo Zoom
>     I think, therefore I go fast

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Tue May 13 06:00:00 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 08:00:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <562983.88828.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <562983.88828.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <482982C0.8070903@roadrunner.com>

Bingo!

Push the whole tab and switch in until the switch is bottomed on the 
pedal. When you release it it will be in perfect adjustment. I haven't 
'adjusted' one on a Triumph any other way.

Jim

PS

There's really nothing wrong with the original switch. They last pretty 
well.

Kendall Larsen wrote:
> Hi Bob,
>
> If I recall correctly, the whole tab that the brake light switch is mounted on can be bent slightly with your bare hands, this quickly solves the problem with little fuss. 
>
> Kendall
> San Clemente, CA

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Tue May 13 06:11:56 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 05:11:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Oil Pan Gasket
Message-ID: <845946.67295.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

   While you have the oil pan off you should also check the lip on the
   pan where the bolt holes are located with a straight edge.  These tend
   over time to be dimpled outward from overtightening.  This  can easily
   be remedied by placing the ball end of a ball peen hammer in the
   center of the hole on the side of the pan that bolts to the block and
   hitting the other end of the hammer with another hammer.  Seems like I
   got this idea from other listers an eon or two ago.  Thanks listers.

   Mike Lunsford

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue May 13 06:49:35 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 08:49:35 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Oil Pan Gasket-Ball Peen & Belt Sander
Message-ID: <c01.36f8f63e.355ae85f@cs.com>

I do the ball peen hammer and then run the surface on a belt sander. Dont 
know how much this adds to the process, but it makes me feel good.

Joe A

>  While you have the oil pan off you should also check the lip on the
>    pan where the bolt holes are located with a straight edge.  These tend
>    over time to be dimpled outward from overtightening.  This  can easily
>    be remedied by placing the ball end of a ball peen hammer in the
>    center of the hole on the side of the pan that bolts to the block and
>    hitting the other end of the hammer with another hammer.  Seems like I
>    got this idea from other listers an eon or two ago.  Thanks listers.
> 
>    Mike Lunsford
> 

   </HTML>

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Tue May 13 06:56:31 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 08:56:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40805130556u1de2748dr6d31d345c92ed63@mail.gmail.com>

Hmm.  I just replaced the brake switch on my TR6 (ordered a nice one
for a BMW 2002 on line for about $7 or so).  When I removed the old
switch from my 6, it only had one nut.  So instead of the switch being
held in place between two adjusting nuts, it was held in place between
the one nut and the plastic body of the switch.  Wonder if a DPO
removed the second nut.

John V.
-- 
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com

> Bob---Since your brake light switch works as designed (when you pull the
> pedal back) you can probably adjust the one you have. Note that there
> are two adjusting nuts that control the depth of the switch relative to
> the pedal.. Just move the switch away from the pedal a tad.

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue May 13 09:08:17 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 15:08:17 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40805130556u1de2748dr6d31d345c92ed63@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40805130556u1de2748dr6d31d345c92ed63@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149F1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Mine also had just one nut and a star washer as did the new Moss replacement.
My original switch lasted 24 years before the bond between the base and the
case failed and the switch fell apart.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
VanNorman
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 8:57 AM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Light Switch

Hmm.  I just replaced the brake switch on my TR6 (ordered a nice one
for a BMW 2002 on line for about $7 or so).  When I removed the old
switch from my 6, it only had one nut.  So instead of the switch being
held in place between two adjusting nuts, it was held in place between
the one nut and the plastic body of the switch.  Wonder if a DPO
removed the second nut.

John V.
--
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com

> Bob---Since your brake light switch works as designed (when you pull the
> pedal back) you can probably adjust the one you have. Note that there
> are two adjusting nuts that control the depth of the switch relative to
> the pedal.. Just move the switch away from the pedal a tad.
_______________________________________________

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 13 09:29:24 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:29:24 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Replacing oil pan gasket
In-Reply-To: <08a701c8b4e3$15b2bbb0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
References: <c71.2f89839e.355a488f@aol.com>
	<000701c8b4a0$cb3c8fd0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<08a701c8b4e3$15b2bbb0$6401a8c0@STATION6>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805131126010.20212@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

To the advocates of using sealant on both sides of the gasket, I need to 
ask - with sealant on both sides, how do you remove the pan without 
cocking up the gasket? Not that you'd ever need to remove the pan.

:-)

I always seal to one surface (usually the surface on the part that is 
removed to perform service) and assemble dry to the other surface. This 
way the part can wiggle when you install and the whole thing can come 
apart for service when needed and in a lot of cases (like the oil pan) you 
can re-use the gasket.

Then again, I'm not a mechanic by trade...

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue May 13 09:34:41 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:34:41 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Alternate Connecting Rods
Message-ID: <d14.24aed716.355b0f11@cs.com>

List

I will make an inquiry to see if the con rod work has been done for GT6 & TR6.

(I am not recommending this approach to anyone. It has it's risks)

Christian Marx from Germany and a few others in the US have done this 
successfully in the US, including myself, for the TR3/TR4 engines. Research done by 
Uncle Jack.

It is also a lighter rod than stock, and Carillos, too. Special wrist pins  
can be used for lighter assemblies.....where do you stop? 

A little rambling follows....................sorry.

The biggest single performance improvement can be found with a lighter 
flywheel. And no downsides. Cost effective....too. 

Kas Kastner says that the Six Cylinder engines respond better than the TR4 
engines to a lightened flywheel. I dont have any personal experience, myself, 
but Kas did extensive Dyno Testing and data acquisition.

The sad part of this, is that Kas tossed of much of his information during a 
household move, thinking that no one would be interested in this data...Kas 
has brought back some of the information in his three recent books...I highly 
recommend them....they make great reading, over and over again.

Joe A






> I don't know if they fit a GT6 engine, but I have a set of 6" Carillo rods 
> for a Chevy 350.  Anyonw interested please contact me off list.  Thanks.
> 
> Best regards,
> Tom
> 
> > From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com
> 

   </HTML>

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue May 13 09:48:00 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:48:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Switch Thanks
Message-ID: <000001c8b510$ba90b8d0$210110ac@bobspc>

Once again I found myself head first in the foot well..... This time trying
to remove the brake switch. Once I got it out and was able to see that it
worked the opposite of what I thought..... the fix was the easy "bend the
tab" that a few of you suggested. BTW, I had one serrated washer and a big
washer behind the tab and a serrated washer and a nut on the other side
securing the switch. I tried removing the big washer first to move the
switch closer to the pedal arm but that put it too close. So I put it back
together as it was and just bent the tab a little bit. I was so focused on
thinking that the spring was not returning the pedal correctly or that the
switch was bad, that I never noticed the tab that the switch mounts in. Such
a simple solution.

Thanks again

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From Lizirbydavis at cs.com  Tue May 13 10:14:33 2008
From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com (Lizirbydavis at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 12:14:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
Message-ID: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>

Somebody help me!  I'm becoming increasingly paranoid about dying in my TR6.  I drive every day.  I'm considering selling the car and getting a used boxster with air bags abs, crumple zones etc... I need a daily driver.  I love the TR6, and I've been driving it daily in fair weather for years without incident. I wonder if I would survive a significant accident. How do these cars hold up in a collision?  Any experience?
Joe     

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Tue May 13 10:56:01 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 12:56:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
Message-ID: <45DF9F74.1DA6F985.00159EE9@cs.com>

Joe D

In 1998, my wife and I were hit at the front quarter on passenger side at about 50 mph, with on coming station wagon. A LOT of the energy was absorbed with the TR3A spinning 360 degrees. It stayed on it's wheels.

Both of us were well belted in. Likely the difference in major injury or death. Bruising at the seat belts and a torn fingernail was the extent of wife's injuries....TR3A was totaled, but became donor car for my current TR3A.  

I might feel just a bit better with a modest roll over bar. (I have one in design, right now, that will incorporate a wind barrier feature) But, I am not likely to give up driving on the road after almost 50 years.

Joe A

>Somebody help me!  I'm becoming increasingly paranoid about dying in my TR6.  I drive every day.  I'm considering selling the car and getting a used boxster with air bags abs, crumple zones etc... I need a daily driver.  I love the TR6, and I've been driving it daily in fair weather for years without incident. I wonder if I would survive a significant accident. How do these cars hold up in a collision?  Any experience?
>Joe     
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From triosan at gmail.com  Tue May 13 12:27:56 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:27:56 -0700
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
In-Reply-To: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
References: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805131127j16951c17m973107c77da6100f@mail.gmail.com>

Last weekend a fellow in a Boxer rounded a corner near me [really a 40%
sweeper].  Way too fast, went sideways, got broadsided by a Taurus going 35
mph.  The Boxer driver is no longer with us.
Chuck

On Tue, May 13, 2008 at 9:14 AM, <Lizirbydavis at cs.com> wrote:

> Somebody help me!  I'm becoming increasingly paranoid about dying in my
> TR6.  I drive every day.  I'm considering selling the car and getting a used
> boxster with air bags abs, crumple zones etc... I need a daily driver.  I
> love the TR6, and I've been driving it daily in fair weather for years
> without incident. I wonder if I would survive a significant accident. How do
> these cars hold up in a collision?  Any experience?
> Joe
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Tue May 13 13:08:13 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:08:13 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size?
Message-ID: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>

My block is going in to be prepared for insertion of Spit. cam bearings ... does anyone have the definitive bore size for fitting the Spitfire cam bearings in te TR6 block?

Thanks,
**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************

From tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org  Tue May 13 13:58:48 2008
From: tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org (Terry Geiger)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 14:58:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size?
In-Reply-To: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>
References: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>
Message-ID: <485700F0934C4306BD61E44117093E77@aitinc.local>

Here is what TRF sent me when I did mine:
Use cam bearings for a 1296 cc spitfire engine.  You use the small journal 
bearings (width).  The wide bearings go in the outside bearings and the 
narrow bearings go in the center.  The bores must be bored to 1.9680 - 
1.9695 to fit the bearings.

Terry Geiger
195? MGA~1974 Triumph TR6~1970 MGBGT~1963 Triumph Herald~1984 Mercedes 300D
www.ShoalsBritishCars.org

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <triumph at 2simpleusa.com>
To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:08 PM
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size?


> My block is going in to be prepared for insertion of Spit. cam bearings 
> ... does anyone have the definitive bore size for fitting the Spitfire cam 
> bearings in te TR6 block?
>
> Thanks,
> **************
> Tony Gordon
> 72 TR6

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue May 13 14:08:00 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 20:08:00 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size?
In-Reply-To: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>
References: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EAFA79BD@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I think the best strategy is to give the bearings and the block to the machine
shop and ask them to line bore the block to suit your bearings.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
triumph at 2simpleusa.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 3:08 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size?

My block is going in to be prepared for insertion of Spit. cam bearings ...
does anyone have the definitive bore size for fitting the Spitfire cam
bearings in te TR6 block?

Thanks,
**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From tr6 at pobox.com  Tue May 13 14:50:32 2008
From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 15:50:32 -0500
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
In-Reply-To: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
References: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
Message-ID: <4829FF18.2070800@pobox.com>

I dont know if this helps, but I once hit a guardrail doing 70mph in my 
TR6 (due to serious mechanical failure that *I* caused).  The car was 
totaled (though I ended up repairing it).  I was without a scratch. 
That was about 1986 if I recall.

This also is a testament that they are darn hard to roll over... as I 
was sliding sideways due to a missing left rear wheel.  No roll over.

Your mileage may vary.

Lizirbydavis at cs.com wrote:
> Somebody help me!  I'm becoming increasingly paranoid about dying in my TR6.  I drive every day.  I'm considering selling the car and getting a used boxster with air bags abs, crumple zones etc... I need a daily driver.  I love the TR6, and I've been driving it daily in fair weather for years without incident. I wonder if I would survive a significant accident. How do these cars hold up in a collision?  Any experience?
> Joe     
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as tr6 at pobox.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue May 13 15:08:27 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 21:08:27 +0000
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
In-Reply-To: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
References: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EAFA79BF@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Joe, I'm guessing that more people die every year driving Volvo's than die in
Triumphs so clearly you are statistically safer driving a TR6.

My personal experience after hitting a Peugeot in downtown Geneva was that the
Pug was totaled (the whole front end collapsed) and the TR6 had a minor paint
chip on the leading edge of the bonnet. The combination of the bumper and the
bonnet was a like a simultaneous high and low tackle that the Pug was not
prepared for. I hit it so hard that I had to reverse off the front of his car
after everything stopped moving. The police kept asking where the other car
was, the one that hit the pug...

I'm sure there are scenarios where the TR6's lack of ABS and airbags etc will
be a liability but I also know that I drive much more defensively in the TR
than I do in the Sequoia and my biggest fear is getting rear-ended in the TR6
by someone nattering on a cell phone while I'm waiting at a traffic light. I'm
going to put an LED light bar on the roll bar to make me more visible.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Lizirbydavis at cs.com
Sent: Tuesday, May 13, 2008 12:15 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver

Somebody help me!  I'm becoming increasingly paranoid about dying in my TR6.
I drive every day.  I'm considering selling the car and getting a used boxster
with air bags abs, crumple zones etc... I need a daily driver.  I love the
TR6, and I've been driving it daily in fair weather for years without
incident. I wonder if I would survive a significant accident. How do these
cars hold up in a collision?  Any experience?
Joe

From lfm614 at aol.com  Tue May 13 15:26:51 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 17:26:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
In-Reply-To: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
References: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
Message-ID: <8CA835730D3ACCD-1474-12BA@FWM-M35.sysops.aol.com>

Joe,

Physics are definitely not on our side when we're up against large SUV behemoths and soccer moms on cell phones in a sound proof booth?BUT, like others have said you have to drive defensively.? Almost like having a bike in my book.

Mine is Pimento red so it stands out and I have a 138 DB air horn that?I don't hesitate to lay on (makes them wonder where the truck is coming from).? hallogen lights at night and loud (stcok) exhaust.? 

Still sometimes I feel like I need those orange flags on a stick like the trikes have in FL retirement villages so they can see me up there but I love driving the LBC when the weather is great and I am in no hurry.

For day to day traffic combat, I drive something a little heavier and more fortified.? Best of both worlds I guess.

Lou
72 Pimento Red







-----Original Message-----
From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Tue, 13 May 2008 11:14 am
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver



Somebody help me!  I'm becoming increasingly paranoid about dying in my TR6.  I 
drive every day.  I'm considering selling the car and getting a used boxster 
with air bags abs, crumple zones etc... I need a daily driver.  I love the TR6, 
and I've been driving it daily in fair weather for years without incident. I 
wonder if I would survive a significant accident. How do these cars hold up in a 
collision?  Any experience?
Joe     
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Tue May 13 15:37:39 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 16:37:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
References: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
	<8cbd782d0805131127j16951c17m973107c77da6100f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <003101c8b541$915bbfb0$7407f746@Dell320>

I was involved in a TR-6 vs. Ford Econoline Van crash back in 1973. I was a 
passenger is a friends white 1969 TR6 and were going around a blind corner 
on a dirt road when the van suddenly appeared on our side of the road and 
hit us head-on. The speed at impact was probably around 25 MPH. There were 
no injuries and we just climbed out of the car. The TR6 was undriveable but 
we were okay. It was later repaired and now that 1969 TR6 is about to turn 
40! 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue May 13 16:02:41 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 18:02:41 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Cam Bearings: bore size?
In-Reply-To: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>
References: <20080513190813.14158.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805131759070.20212@isis.mit.edu>

On Tue, 13 May 2008 triumph at 2simpleusa.com wrote:

> My block is going in to be prepared for insertion of Spit. cam bearings 
> ... does anyone have the definitive bore size for fitting the Spitfire 
> cam bearings in te TR6 block?

If you provide the bearings with the block, any competent machinist will 
figure out what to do. Otherwise, if you tell them that the bearings are 
from a Spitfire, they can look up the OD for the align bore.

Don't forget to provide your cam so they can dimension the journals for 
proper clearance. Otherwise, they might go in too tight and you'll have 
problems.

I recall that aptfast.com had the dimensions, but I'm having trouble 
accessing that site right now... but check them out.

> Thanks,
> **************
> Tony Gordon
> 72 TR6
> **************

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Tue May 13 16:06:31 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Tue, 13 May 2008 15:06:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Brake Light Switch
Message-ID: <103683.18671.qm@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob
To answer your original question: believe this is from a mid 80's Honda
Accord NAPA part # SL310.
It is all metal, fits like the original and is or
was around $ 13.00.
Dale


----- Original Message ----
From: Bob Danielson
<75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: Triumphs <triumphs at autox.team.net>;
Triumph <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 12, 2008 4:02:14 PM
Subject:
[6pack] Brake Light Switch

I just noticed that my brake lights don't turn
off......unless I pull the
pedal back that last 1/8" with my foot. When I
stick my head in the foot
well, press & release the pedal, I can feel that it
wants to come back that
last smidge which is what turns the lights off. The
spring is good. The only
thing different is a rebuilt servo. Does this
indicate a bad or failing
switch? I remember a thread on here last year about
a better quality
replacement switch. I think it was from a Honda. Does anyone
have the info
on that?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running
w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

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are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed May 14 14:37:01 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 13:37:01 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] CAM BEARINGS
Message-ID: <100419.77033.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

   No matter who inserts the cam bearings (you or the machine shop) it
   never hurts to double check to ensure that the oil holes in the
   bearings are properly aligned with the oil holes from the block.  I
   know of two people, one had a machine shop do the insertion, who
   learned the hard way that this needs to be done.

   Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Wed May 14 15:30:26 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (trguy at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Wed, 14 May 2008 17:30:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Help - Used Diff Needed
Message-ID: <9719314.1012241210800626554.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web12-z02>

Team:
We have a TR6 owner in Orlando that needs a good used diff and we canbt find
one here in Central Florida.  Owner will pay for diff and shipping.  Please
contact me off list at trguy at cfl.rr.com if you can help.
Many thanks!
Jim Henningsen
Maitland, FL
75 TR6 Cf35914U

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Thu May 15 07:23:10 2008
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 06:23:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Carb Problems
Message-ID: <390679.3845.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

  Hi all. Hope you guys can help me. Along with a bunch of other stuff my buddy (he is the mechanic) and I have recently finished rebuilding the carbs on my 72 TR6. We had the thing running great (maybe a little rich, but its always been that way since I owned the car) in the garage. I took it out for a test drive and the car was running great until I got about a mile away, when it backfired then lost power and died. Since my fuel guage decides on its own when it wants to work I thought I was out of gas but that wasnt it. We werent able to get her restarted and had to have the car towed home.
   
  Since then we have rechecked all the electrical stuff, vacuum hoses, timing, valves and these dont seem to be the problem. We are able to get the car started briefly but then it runs terrible for a few seconds and then dies. At this point we are thinking of rebuilding the carbs again. The previous kit came from the roadster factory. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
   
  Ian
  72 TR6 Jasmine Yellow
  New Haven, CT

From lfm614 at aol.com  Thu May 15 07:49:24 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 13:49:24 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Carb Problems
In-Reply-To: <390679.3845.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <390679.3845.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <737423148-1210859367-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-270989909-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Sounds like fuel problem. Checked fuel pump & filter?  Float jets set at right level?  Debris in tank or line blocking flow?  

Lou

Sent from by wireless Blackberry. 
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Ian Breyer <ianbreyer at yahoo.com>

Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 06:23:10 
To:6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Carb Problems


  Hi all. Hope you guys can help me. Along with a bunch of other stuff my buddy (he is the mechanic) and I have recently finished rebuilding the carbs on my 72 TR6. We had the thing running great (maybe a little rich, but its always been that way since I owned the car) in the garage. I took it out for a test drive and the car was running great until I got about a mile away, when it backfired then lost power and died. Since my fuel guage decides on its own when it wants to work I thought I was out of gas but that wasnt it. We werent able to get her restarted and had to have the car towed home.
   
  Since then we have rechecked all the electrical stuff, vacuum hoses, timing, valves and these dont seem to be the problem. We are able to get the car started briefly but then it runs terrible for a few seconds and then dies. At this point we are thinking of rebuilding the carbs again. The previous kit came from the roadster factory. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
   
  Ian
  72 TR6 Jasmine Yellow
  New Haven, CT
_______________________________________________

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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May 15 08:10:18 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 07:10:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Carb Problems
In-Reply-To: <390679.3845.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <390679.3845.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03C7B8F5@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Ian:

	Sounds like you lost fuel flow to the carbs. Pull the fuel line
to the carbs, and  direct it into a metal container while you crank the
car. You should get a strong steady flow. If not, your fuel filter or
pump has packed it in.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ian Breyer
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 6:23 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Carb Problems

  Hi all. Hope you guys can help me. Along with a bunch of other stuff
my buddy (he is the mechanic) and I have recently finished rebuilding
the carbs on my 72 TR6. We had the thing running great (maybe a little
rich, but its always been that way since I owned the car) in the garage.
I took it out for a test drive and the car was running great until I got
about a mile away, when it backfired then lost power and died. Since my
fuel guage decides on its own when it wants to work I thought I was out
of gas but that wasnt it. We werent able to get her restarted and had
to have the car towed home.

<snip>

  Ian
  72 TR6 Jasmine Yellow
  New Haven, CT

From sakirsis at consolidated.net  Thu May 15 08:23:39 2008
From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:23:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Fw:  Carb Problems
Message-ID: <A593529B89C14058BA115C661BF0F01D@stevekirsisPC>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Steve Kirsis" <sakirsis at consolidated.net>
To: "Ian Breyer" <ianbreyer at yahoo.com>
Cc: "6 Pack" <6pack at autex.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 9:15 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Carb Problems


> Ian, I just had the same problem with my '70. Running very well after a 
> dizzy rebuild and suddenly just quit on me. luckily I was close to home 
> and had neighbors to push it to the house. After scratching my head for 
> about an hour I swapped rotors out from my '75 as they looked different. 
> Sure enough the car started right away. I found out that the rotor TRF had 
> sent me was for a TR-4. I did not even know they were different. It will 
> run for a while on the wrong rotor. Also check your carbs diaphrams as 
> with a good backfire they will blow out. Steve Kirsis.
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Ian Breyer" <ianbreyer at yahoo.com>
> To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Thursday, May 15, 2008 8:23 AM
> Subject: [6pack] Carb Problems
>
>
>>  Hi all. Hope you guys can help me. Along with a bunch of other stuff my 
>> buddy (he is the mechanic) and I have recently finished rebuilding the 
>> carbs on my 72 TR6. We had the thing running great (maybe a little rich, 
>> but its always been that way since I owned the car) in the garage. I took 
>> it out for a test drive and the car was running great until I got about a 
>> mile away, when it backfired then lost power and died. Since my fuel 
>> guage decides on its own when it wants to work I thought I was out of gas 
>> but that wasnt it. We werent able to get her restarted and had to have 
>> the car towed home.
>>
>>  Since then we have rechecked all the electrical stuff, vacuum hoses, 
>> timing, valves and these dont seem to be the problem. We are able to get 
>> the car started briefly but then it runs terrible for a few seconds and 
>> then dies. At this point we are thinking of rebuilding the carbs again. 
>> The previous kit came from the roadster factory. Any suggestions would be 
>> greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>>
>>  Ian
>>  72 TR6 Jasmine Yellow
>>  New Haven, CT
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as sakirsis at consolidated.net

From tr6 at pobox.com  Thu May 15 08:37:09 2008
From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 09:37:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Carb Problems
In-Reply-To: <390679.3845.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <390679.3845.qm@web52501.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <482C4A95.4060209@pobox.com>

Just a guess.  Did you replace the floats?  In my experience the 
original 30+ year old floats are far superior to any floats you get 
these days.

The last time I rebuilt my carbs, the floats sank within a week or two. 
  They are made of some thin plastic that does not hold up under today's 
gasoline.  I actually had thrown my old (good) floats away and had to 
find used floats from a junkyard.

My guess here is that if you take off the carbs, flip them over and just 
take off the bowl, you will find one or both of the floats are full of 
gasoline.  (Could also be the float valve clogged up with debris, but 
you'll still be in the right vicinity.)

Ian Breyer wrote:
>   Hi all. Hope you guys can help me. Along with a bunch of other stuff my buddy (he is the mechanic) and I have recently finished rebuilding the carbs on my 72 TR6. We had the thing running great (maybe a little rich, but its always been that way since I owned the car) in the garage. I took it out for a test drive and the car was running great until I got about a mile away, when it backfired then lost power and died. Since my fuel guage decides on its own when it wants to work I thought I was out of gas but that wasnt it. We werent able to get her restarted and had to have the car towed home.
>    
>   Since then we have rechecked all the electrical stuff, vacuum hoses, timing, valves and these dont seem to be the problem. We are able to get the car started briefly but then it runs terrible for a few seconds and then dies. At this point we are thinking of rebuilding the carbs again. The previous kit came from the roadster factory. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
>    
>   Ian
>   72 TR6 Jasmine Yellow
>   New Haven, CT

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Thu May 15 13:31:52 2008
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 12:31:52 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Carb problems
Message-ID: <199484.50506.qm@web52512.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all the great suggestions and keep them coming if anyone has anything else. I'll be doing some troubleshooting this evening. I should have mentioned we ruled out fuel to the carbs as the culprit. 
   
  Ian


Ian Breyer
872 State Street, APT 2A
New Haven, CT 06511
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com or ianbreyer at comcast.net
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com

From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com  Thu May 15 17:50:53 2008
From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop)
Date: Thu, 15 May 2008 19:50:53 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OF581FE99D.7E290C30-ON8525744A.0083009B-8525744A.0083009C@CDCLN05.LVS.DUPONT.COM>

I will be out of the office starting  05/15/2008 and will not return until
05/19/2008.

You may leave me a voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond
when I'm able.   I'll be checking email and voicemail during this time.
Orders may be sent to:  MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can
contact customer service at
800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1.
Regards, Robert

This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail,
in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by
return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly
and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does
not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance
of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the
use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for
transfers of data to third parties.

Francais Deutsch Italiano  Espanol  Portugues  Japanese  Chinese  Korean

           http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri May 16 06:02:57 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 12:02:57 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Speed Bleeder
In-Reply-To: <21070685.850721210189583455.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
References: <21070685.850721210189583455.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web27-z02>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB731494@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Hmm. So I ordered a set, SB3824 for the clutch, SB3824HD for the brakes and
the SB3824 does not fit my clutch slave. It is too small by a wide margin.
SB3824 is threaded 3/8x24

The SB3824HD is slightly longer than the SB3824 and is also threaded 3/8x24
and they do fit the brake bleeder threads but are much longer than the
existing bleed nipples leaving most of the thread exposed after fully
inserted. Even the SB3824 is half as long again as the existing nipple. I
don't believe either of these parts is viable on my '74.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Wednesday, May 07, 2008 3:46 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Speed Bleeder

Hey list;

I'm not sure how many of you have tried, or are familiar with, the Speed
Bleeder products but I wrote to their Applications people today because the
TR6 wasn't mentioned in their standard App chart at speedbleeder.com. Turns
out TR6's use the same Speed Bleeder screws as a Harley!

See their note below, for any who might be interested....

Dave
CF25194U+O+TBI
======================================
The size(s) that you need for your application is as follows:

Front....SB3824HD
Rear.....SB3824HD
Clutch...SB3824

 When you order Speed Bleeder consider ordering the "Bleeder / Bag Combo".
It
will make bleeding your brakes even easier.  It consists of a 30 inch length
of
silicone tubing that is specifically sized to the Speed Bleeders and a
bleeder
bag that looks like an IV bag that is used in hospitals.   Attach one end of
the
hose to the Speed Bleeder nipple and the other end to the bleeder bag. Open
the
Speed Bleeder 1/4 turn and proceed to bleed your caliper or wheel cylinder.
The
fluid will be contained in the bleeder bag and eliminates any unnecessary
mess.
  Speed Bleeder can be ordered at http://speedbleeder.zoovy.com

  Thanks
  Michael Sulwer
_______________________________________________

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri May 16 09:30:46 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 16:30:46 +0100
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
References: <7EAFE5C8.1AF46349.2B9A9738@cs.com>
Message-ID: <01e001c8b769$d0a236c0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Joe wrote

>  I wonder if I would survive a significant accident. How do these cars hold up in a collision? 
> Any experience?

Joe, in jest, the obvious question is "what kind of serious accident did you have in mind?"

Seriously, in my experience of having seen many totalled TR's (in their very young days) they don't 
hold up well. Truth is, they weren't really designed to be as *energy absorbing* as a modern car. 
There's no significant front or rear crumple zone, there's no SIPS (side impact protection system) 
and all you do have is a telescoping steering column. IMHO, if you daily drive the TR in traffic 
conditions where you feel a bump is an inevitable likelihood just waiting to happen, the sooner you 
get and use something in which you feel safer and better protected, the better!

Jonmac

From ianbreyer at yahoo.com  Fri May 16 09:40:17 2008
From: ianbreyer at yahoo.com (Ian Breyer)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 08:40:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] not actually Carb problems
Message-ID: <789240.92892.qm@web52503.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Thanks for all the help on my carb rebuild. It turns out as many suspected to be a faulty (new) ignition rotor. The metal piece was poorly riveted to the plastic and was noticeably loose. The car is now back up and running again. Does anyone have a guess what I should expect for fuel economy? I always thought I wasn't getting as many miles per gallon as I should have in the past and am hoping that I will see some improvement. Perhaps I have a better chance of seeing Elvis. The car is more or less stock except for some competition spark plug wires. Thanks again.
   
  Ian


Ian Breyer
872 State Street, APT 2A
New Haven, CT 06511
home email: ianbreyer at yahoo.com or ianbreyer at comcast.net
work email: ibreyer at hartynet.com

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Fri May 16 12:58:34 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 11:58:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] su carbs
Message-ID: <15082.94288.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

   hi all have a 76 tr6 just got the su's going now have to figure out
   the emissions .since in ny they are no longer a issue can i eliminate
   it .too many hoses and can i by pass the egr valve any pics would be
   helpful

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri May 16 13:47:30 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 15:47:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] su carbs
In-Reply-To: <15082.94288.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <15082.94288.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8b78d$b03404d0$210110ac@bobspc>

John,
Our cars should be pretty similar and I've removed pretty much everything
smog related for one reason or another. The air pump failed a few years ago,
so I pulled that and plugged the EGR with a bolt labeled M18-1.5. Then this
winter I removed the air rail from the manifold
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ManifoldRepair.htm) and plugged those holes.
I did leave all the connections to and from the carbon canister as I didn't
want to mess around with any heavy gas smells. I actually plan on having an
emissions test because I think the TBI conversion gives me a very clean
running engine.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of john doe
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 2:59 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] su carbs

   hi all have a 76 tr6 just got the su's going now have to figure out
   the emissions .since in ny they are no longer a issue can i eliminate
   it .too many hoses and can i by pass the egr valve any pics would be
   helpful
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri May 16 19:14:11 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 21:14:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
Message-ID: <DC7EB0ADB0584A0DAF262A60090E696E@D1TG6Y71>

I have been looking at the early/late head question for some time, and now
have a late head (many thanks to Colin Grimes ... who has a really tidy late
71 TR6, and is a really good bloke with a delightful wife to boot!).

In a recent exchange with Ibsen Dow on this question, as I was sending him
some information from Chris Witor, I noticed that he (Chris, not Ibsen) had
made reference to the fact that he has gas flowed all the big 6 heads (and I
have his table of head characteristics ... but alas, it lacks the flow rates),
but what is interesting is the fact that he has determined that cyls. 2 and 5
are underfed with the standard 2 Stromberg manifold ... have a look at the
tables in his analysis (this was on the sixappeal website ... but its gone
from there, so I've echoe'd it ...
http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Witor.mht).

Any idea what Chris did to rework the inlet manifold to balance the gas flow?
Kastner is NFG since he dealt with PI or webers only, and William's doesn't
reference any fine tuning of the standard 2xCDS manifold in his Tuning TR250
and TR6 book ...

I could call Chris (and since I bought some of his work-of-art oversize 1.6"
SS inlet valves - undercut and looking like they will add 10BHP just sitting
on the workbench ... NFI but I'd recommend the workmanship and service) I
think he might share, but I thought I'd see what the list thought first!

Incidentally, Witor and Pumford (the Lucas PI guru) appear to be the top folks
in terms of their art in the UK, where there are very many more Triumph big
6's running strongly, but not in TR250 or 6 bodies!

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************

From jmitch at snet.net  Fri May 16 20:47:15 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 22:47:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Headlight trim rings
Message-ID: <482E4733.1080305@snet.net>

   I installed new Lucas headlight buckets tonight and I'm having a 
difficult time getting the trim ring to seat all the way around the 
bucket rim.  I start at the top, and work down and around, but can get 
the very bottom to pop on. Ive tried 3 different sets of trim rings 
including an NOS set of Lucas.   Is there a trick to this I hope?    
John Mitchell  76 TR6

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri May 16 20:51:00 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 16 May 2008 22:51:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
In-Reply-To: <DC7EB0ADB0584A0DAF262A60090E696E@D1TG6Y71>
References: <DC7EB0ADB0584A0DAF262A60090E696E@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0805162245510.6932@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Interesting stuff, but you are wrong-o about Kastner using only the Webers 
and PI.

Kastner got big numbers with twin Strombergs. Over 170 HP.

Don't forget that the TR6 ran SCCA D Prod with Strombergs back in the day. 
The PI cars were CP.

This info is "in the book". Kastner wrote the book.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri May 16 21:34:14 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 03:34:14 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Headlight trim rings
In-Reply-To: <482E4733.1080305@snet.net>
References: <482E4733.1080305@snet.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB731694@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

John, these trims really can try your patience. I bet everyone has their
favorite technique, here's mine.

Examine the bucket flanges and the gasket. Make sure that the flanges have
enough clearance to allow the trim to engage.

Starting at the top, line the trim up so that when engaged the clip at the
bottom will be in the correct location. You can press lightly on the bottom to
observe that the clip would engage.

Now shove the trim down hard so that it engages firmly between the top flange
and the gasket and apply enough pressure from above to hold it there with one
hand. Don't move that hand. With the other hand move to the bottom of the trim
and verify that if you were to attempt to seat it that the clip would engage.
Still pushing down on the top, whack the bottom with your other hand to engage
the clip and while still applying pressure at the top hit the two side areas
of the trim to engage them. If you have to use your knew to keep the bottom
clip engaged. Pushing the trim lip into the area between the top flange and
the gasket and maintaining pressure there seems to be the secret for me.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Mitchell
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 10:47 PM
To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Headlight trim rings

   I installed new Lucas headlight buckets tonight and I'm having a
difficult time getting the trim ring to seat all the way around the
bucket rim.  I start at the top, and work down and around, but can get
the very bottom to pop on. Ive tried 3 different sets of trim rings
including an NOS set of Lucas.   Is there a trick to this I hope?
John Mitchell  76 TR6
_______________________________________________

From lists at brits-n-pieces.com  Sat May 17 05:39:28 2008
From: lists at brits-n-pieces.com (Eric Frenken)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 13:39:28 +0200
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EAFA79BF@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <000a01c8b812$ab2219c0$16b2a8c0@heinz>

Stan, that's clearly a case of "Don't trust statistics you haven't
manipulated yourself!"

How many people drive Volvos and how many Triumphs? Or better, how many
miles per year are done in Volvos and how many in Triumphs?

But, I won't stop driving my LBC although I had touched the barriers on
the highway twice after I had lost control of it. The Healey now needs a
complete new front (incl. both wings, front shroud and bonnet), I didn't
have the slightest injury, though I have no belts in my car.

Eric

Stan Foster wrote:

Joe, I'm guessing that more people die every year driving Volvo's than
die in Triumphs so clearly you are statistically safer driving a TR6.

From Lizirbydavis at cs.com  Sat May 17 06:48:25 2008
From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com (Lizirbydavis at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 08:48:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
Message-ID: <17A313C0.266BC5E1.2B9A9738@cs.com>

Actually, my other car is a 90 volvo 240 wagon.  The car is built like a tank.  Fortunately, I live in a very rural area.  I have to drive almost 30 miles to see a traffic light.  A friend of mine recently crashed his spitfire into a tree and demolished both his legs. I think defensive driving is the key with these cars.  I tell my wife "at least its not a motorcycle", although she refuses to go any distance with me in the TR in fear that we both would be killed...
Joe 

"Eric Frenken" <lists at brits-n-pieces.com> wrote:

>Stan, that's clearly a case of "Don't trust statistics you haven't
>manipulated yourself!"
>
>How many people drive Volvos and how many Triumphs? Or better, how many
>miles per year are done in Volvos and how many in Triumphs?
>
>But, I won't stop driving my LBC although I had touched the barriers on
>the highway twice after I had lost control of it. The Healey now needs a
>complete new front (incl. both wings, front shroud and bonnet), I didn't
>have the slightest injury, though I have no belts in my car.
>
>Eric
>
>Stan Foster wrote:
>
>Joe, I'm guessing that more people die every year driving Volvo's than
>die in Triumphs so clearly you are statistically safer driving a TR6.
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as lizirbydavis at cs.com

From fishplate at charter.net  Sat May 17 07:07:40 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 09:07:40 -0400
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
In-Reply-To: <17A313C0.266BC5E1.2B9A9738@cs.com>
References: <17A313C0.266BC5E1.2B9A9738@cs.com>
Message-ID: <20080517130724.DTFT3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 08:48 AM 5/17/2008, you wrote:
>Actually, my other car is a 90 volvo 240 wagon.

Small world...here is 4/5 of the fleet I own: http://fishplate.org/vehicles/

Not pictured is the VW Campmobile and Double Cab Pickup that I 
haven't driven in years...

>I think defensive driving is the key with these cars.

My theory is that the rarer the car, the more likely you will keep 
your head in what you are doing...  The sports cars, being more 
maneuverable and only driven in good weather, give me a better chance 
of seeing trouble coming.  I hope.  Driving a Spitfire, and looking 
up to ~everyone~ including guys on riding lawn mowers, is a constant 
reminder to pay attention to your surroundings.

As for the VWs, the other John Muir* said "You should always drive a 
VW Bus as if you were tied to the front bumper like an Aztec 
sacrifice."  Which is essentially true, and why I don't drive them any more.


* http://www.amazon.com/How-Keep-Your-Volkswagen-Alive/dp/0912528338


Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sat May 17 09:24:54 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 10:24:54 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] paranoid daily driver
Message-ID: <2558899.1211037894186.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello List,

I would think that driving a lbc would be safer today than when the vehicle was manufactured.  Modern vehicles have anti-lock brakes, crumple zones, warning backup/area buzzers and stability controls.  These items may help the modern vehicle driver during an accident with a lbc reducing the damage/ injury to the lbc and driver.  There where larger and heavier vehicles on the road when the lbc were produced that did not have the modern safety features with crumple zones.  Now the disclaimer, there are always going to be situations that the lbc and driver will be on the losing end in an accident.  Drivers of modern vehicles lose their lives and total their vehicles today just like in the past when the lbc's were produced. It boils down to when your time on earth is up!  It may not be when you are driving your lbc!

I personally give the car in front of me a count of 2-3 seconds following distance when driving in city/ interstate traffic.  This allows my TR6 enough distance to stop.  

Daily driver and my .02 cents,
Greg Perry

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat May 17 14:24:06 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 16:24:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Water Pump Leak
Message-ID: <000001c8b85b$f6c528b0$210110ac@bobspc>

Now that I've wrapped up all the winter's work (5 speed conversion, Nissan
diff, steering & accelerator shaft bushings) and am finally driving the car,
I'm getting a small leak from the bottom of the water pump but I can't
really see exactly where it's coming from. Not a steady flow, just drops at
a time but evidently enough that after 125 miles of driving, the top
radiator core was barely covered. The car sat without running for about 5
months which is the longest downtime it's had in 10 years. I've read where
the weeping can happen after a long layoff and "may" stop after some
driving. I've also read through this article (http://tinyurl.com/2dea5r)
on rebuilding your pump and it looks like more then I want to tackle. So my
questions are:
- where exactly is the weep hole on the water pump?
- how much driving does it take and how long should I wait to see if it
clears up by itself?
- I have new seals and gaskets so is it a matter of just replacing the
seals?
- any tips or advice on removing and installing a water pump?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat May 17 18:21:07 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 17 May 2008 17:21:07 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Water Pump Leak
In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message
	of Sat, 17 May 2008 16:24:06 -0400
Message-ID: <338-482F7673-6729@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net>

 Bob---The water coming from the weep hole is the result of the carbon
bearing failure in the pump itself. It may spin itself a new sealing
surface over time, but with the lubrication provided by the
coolant/antifreeze this could take quite a while, if at all.

The location of the weep hole could be in any one of three positions.
You may need a mirror to find yours.
 
Removing the pump is straight forward, and should be no problem with all
of the other things you have tackled on this car. Have a new gasket
ready, if you end up changing the pump.

Dick

 From: 
Bob D. wrote:
Now that I've wrapped up all the winter's work (5 speed conversion,
Nissan diff, steering & accelerator shaft bushings) and am finally
driving the car, I'm getting a small leak from the bottom of the water
pump but I can't really see exactly where it's coming from. Not a steady
flow, just drops at a time but evidently enough that after 125 miles of
driving, the top radiator core was barely covered. The car sat without
running for about 5 months which is the longest downtime it's had in 10
years. I've read where the weeping can happen after a long layoff and
"may" stop after some driving. I've also read through this article
(http://tinyurl.com/2dea5r) on rebuilding your pump and it looks like
more then I want to tackle. So my questions are: 

- where exactly is the weep hole on the water pump? 

- how much driving does it take and how long should I wait to see if it
clears up by itself? 

- I have new seals and gaskets so is it a matter of just replacing the
seals? 

- any tips or advice on removing and installing a water pump? 
Thanks 
Bob 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
______________________________________

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat May 17 20:46:04 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 02:46:04 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I'm looking for a recommendation for an electric  fan that will fit a 74 TR6
with a standard radiator. I bought a random Hayden 16 inch fan on ebay (it was
cheap) and of course the thing is too bulky to fit between the rad and the
cross bar. I would like the largest fan possible (close to 16 inches ?), I
don't mind making up brackets. I would prefer to attach on or close to the
edge of the rad so bigger is better than smaller, definitely want to avoid
those horrid plastic push through fasteners,  but it needs to be low profile
to fit into that narrow space.

Thanks..

Stan

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May 18 04:01:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 06:01:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <000301c8b8ce$304c0000$210110ac@bobspc>

Stan,
I got the Spal (http://www.spalusa.com/) 16" low profile that easily fits in
that space.  They make a whole line of low profile fans in a variety of
sizes 9" - 11". Mine also came with the 185 degree thermostat kit. You can
sort of see the clearance on my car here toward the bottom of the page: 
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 10:46 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

I'm looking for a recommendation for an electric  fan that will fit a 74 TR6
with a standard radiator. I bought a random Hayden 16 inch fan on ebay (it
was
cheap) and of course the thing is too bulky to fit between the rad and the
cross bar. I would like the largest fan possible (close to 16 inches ?), I
don't mind making up brackets. I would prefer to attach on or close to the
edge of the rad so bigger is better than smaller, definitely want to avoid
those horrid plastic push through fasteners,  but it needs to be low profile
to fit into that narrow space.

Thanks..

Stan
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.20/1452 - Release Date: 5/17/2008
6:26 PM

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sun May 18 04:26:29 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 03:26:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Headlight trim rings
Message-ID: <836963.7131.qm@web36102.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

John
Don't know if this will help, do you have the little outdented dot at the
twelve hour.
 I know when I got one of the new rings I had to play with it a
little to get it to fully snap on.
Dale



----- Original Message ----
From:
John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
To: 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net>;
"triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008
10:47:15 PM
Subject: [6pack] Headlight trim rings

  I installed new Lucas
headlight buckets tonight and I'm having a 
difficult time getting the trim
ring to seat all the way around the 
bucket rim.  I start at the top, and work
down and around, but can get 
the very bottom to pop on. Ive tried 3 different
sets of trim rings 
including an NOS set of Lucas.  Is there a trick to this I
hope?    
John Mitchell  76 TR6
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun May 18 06:20:39 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (trguy at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 8:20:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Diff - Thank you!
Message-ID: <15568758.1085611211113239519.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web28-z02>

Thank you to all of our list members who responded regarding the diff.  I have located one and will hopefully get another TR6 on the road.  I'll say it again - this list is great and the fellowship of our TR6 owners is outstanding!  I'm on vacation this week in western NC and can't wait for the 6pack trials this fall in Little Switzerland.
All the best,
Jim Henningsen 
Maitland FL
75 TR6 CF35914U

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sun May 18 06:24:49 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (trguy at cfl.rr.com)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 8:24:49 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6-Pack Trials 2008
Message-ID: <26375131.1085771211113489750.JavaMail.root@cdptpa-web28-z02>

Team:
Editing error in last email - 6Pack trials in Townsend, TN Sep 11,12,13 not Little Switzerland.  Same great mountain roads!
Jim Henningsen

From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com  Sun May 18 09:20:27 2008
From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 08:20:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Overvdriving gauges
Message-ID: <106714.62179.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Folks,

I suspect that I've got to much voltage to my gauges- full tank pegs the needle WAY beyond full, and when bone dry reads 1/4 tank...temp gauge reads ~25-30% too hot, etc.

Now, I understand that for the 12-volt electrics, there is a resistor(?) that limits to 10-volts for the gauges to prevent overdriving...

Can anyone tell me more about this, and where this voltage limiter is located?

Thanks,

Pete
CF38421U

From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com  Sun May 18 10:11:27 2008
From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 09:11:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Tight/binding gearshift
Message-ID: <758960.56871.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Folks,

I've noticed this odd and intermittant problem w/ shifting into first. Sometimes, when starting from dead stop, I cannot get the gear shifter to budge! R <-> L, no problem, but moving up into 1st...nope. Brick wall. Funny thing is, I roll a skosh one way or the other (good old fashion body english- I weigh 255), and it slips into 1st nicely. No trouble w/ the other gears while rolling...

Thoughts?

Thanks in advance,

Pete
CF38421U

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun May 18 10:15:47 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 16:15:47 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Overvdriving gauges
In-Reply-To: <106714.62179.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <106714.62179.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316FA@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Pete, the voltage regulator for the instruments is a small device attached to
the back of the speedo. It is secured by a single screw and it is probably
necessary to remove the speedo to get to it.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Pete
Kronberg
Sent: Sunday, May 18, 2008 11:20 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Overvdriving gauges

Hey Folks,

I suspect that I've got to much voltage to my gauges- full tank pegs the
needle WAY beyond full, and when bone dry reads 1/4 tank...temp gauge reads
~25-30% too hot, etc.

Now, I understand that for the 12-volt electrics, there is a resistor(?) that
limits to 10-volts for the gauges to prevent overdriving...

Can anyone tell me more about this, and where this voltage limiter is
located?

Thanks,

Pete
CF38421U

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun May 18 12:55:15 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 18 May 2008 11:55:15 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Tight/binding gearshift
In-Reply-To: Pete Kronberg <pete_kronberg@yahoo.com>'s message of Sun,
	18 May 2008 09:11:27 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <338-48307B93-7097@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net>

Pete---A few things come to mind here. One could be that the throw
limiter screw on the side of the gear shift needs tobe adjusted, so the
movement into first gear is directly forward, rather than catching a
corner.

The second is that the clutch (linkage) is in the early stages of not
allowing full disengagement.

Lastly would be first gear synchro is giving up.

If iit's reason #2, then reverse gear will soon be hard to engage.

Next time it won't go into first,  try second gear then up into first.
Not a fix, but a bandaide.

Dick

 From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com(Pete Kronberg)

Hey Folks,
I've noticed this odd and intermittant problem w/ shifting into first.
Sometimes, when starting from dead stop, I cannot get the gear shifter
to budge! R <-> L, no problem, but moving up into 1st...nope. Brick
wall. Funny thing is, I roll a skosh one way or the other (good old
fashion body english- I weigh 255), and it slips into 1st nicely. No
trouble w/ the other gears while rolling...
Thoughts?
Thanks in advance,
Pete
CF38421U
______________________________________

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 19 08:20:40 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 07:20:40 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEDF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Stan:

	Is the fan reversible? Mount on the front of the radiator as a
pusher. There is no cooling penalty for doing so.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 7:46 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

I'm looking for a recommendation for an electric  fan that will fit a 74
TR6
with a standard radiator. I bought a random Hayden 16 inch fan on ebay
(it was
cheap) and of course the thing is too bulky to fit between the rad and
the
cross bar. I would like the largest fan possible (close to 16 inches ?),
I
don't mind making up brackets. I would prefer to attach on or close to
the
edge of the rad so bigger is better than smaller, definitely want to
avoid
those horrid plastic push through fasteners,  but it needs to be low
profile
to fit into that narrow space.

Thanks..

Stan

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon May 19 08:25:12 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 10:25:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEDF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEDF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <001001c8b9bc$272140a0$7563c1e0$@com>

Vance,

A pusher fan is not as efficient as a puller fan.  It is a documented fact.
The pusher fan is approx 80% less efficient than a puller.  This is not
something I am making up.  I have read this several times in different
places.  One such place is here:
http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/efans.htm#installed - you might need to scroll
down that page a little, but it is there.

Regards,

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:21
To: Foster, Stan; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

 	Stan:

	Is the fan reversible? Mount on the front of the radiator as a
pusher. There is no cooling penalty for doing so.

	Vance

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 19 08:26:59 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 07:26:59 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
In-Reply-To: <001001c8b9bc$272140a0$7563c1e0$@com>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEDF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<001001c8b9bc$272140a0$7563c1e0$@com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEE9@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Joe:

	I stand corrected. Thanks.

	Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: Joseph Grant [mailto:grant at bowtie6.com]
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 7:25 AM
To: Navarrette, Vance; 'Foster, Stan'; '6-Pack'
Subject: RE: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

Vance,

A pusher fan is not as efficient as a puller fan.  It is a documented
fact.
The pusher fan is approx 80% less efficient than a puller.  This is not
something I am making up.  I have read this several times in different
places.  One such place is here:
http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/efans.htm#installed - you might need to
scroll
down that page a little, but it is there.

Regards,

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 19 10:30:32 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 11:30:32 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEDF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <000d01c8b9cd$aa91b850$8215a8c0@garage.local>

had to add this story.  my mechanic, what a moron, i should say former 
mechanic, mounted the fan on the front of the radiator (pusher), but it was 
pulling.  no joke.  it was set up to pull air from the engine compartment 
out the front of the car.  worked ok because he set it up with a thermostat 
and removed the regular fan.  but it didn't come on until the engine got 
kind of hot, so i decided to put in a switch and put the regular fan back 
on.  yeah.  that didn't work too well . . .

and he managed to find the only fan i think on the planet where if you 
reverse the leads it doesn't turn the other direction.  after i replaced it 
i found out you could reverse the fan blades.  anyone want it????

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 19 10:58:48 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 09:58:48 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
In-Reply-To: <DC7EB0ADB0584A0DAF262A60090E696E@D1TG6Y71>
References: <DC7EB0ADB0584A0DAF262A60090E696E@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAB18C@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Tony:

	If I am reading the article correctly, the gas flow imbalance
was with

	1. The older style manifold
	2. 1-1/2" Zeniths

	If you are running the late head, you will be running the better
flowing late manifold and 1-3/4" Zeniths. So I would expect this to be a
non-issue for you. I believe he commented in the article that with the
newer manifold the issue pretty much went away.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Tony Gordon
Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 6:14 PM
To: 6pack; TR list
Cc: Ibsen Dow
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question

<snip>

In a recent exchange with Ibsen Dow on this question, as I was sending
him
some information from Chris Witor, I noticed that he (Chris, not Ibsen)
had
made reference to the fact that he has gas flowed all the big 6 heads
(and I
have his table of head characteristics ... but alas, it lacks the flow
rates),
but what is interesting is the fact that he has determined that cyls. 2
and 5
are underfed with the standard 2 Stromberg manifold ... have a look at
the
tables in his analysis (this was on the sixappeal website ... but its
gone
from there, so I've echoe'd it ...
http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Witor.mht).

Any idea what Chris did to rework the inlet manifold to balance the gas
flow?
Kastner is NFG since he dealt with PI or webers only, and William's
doesn't
reference any fine tuning of the standard 2xCDS manifold in his Tuning
TR250
and TR6 book ...

<snip>

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon May 19 10:59:33 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:59:33 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
In-Reply-To: <000d01c8b9cd$aa91b850$8215a8c0@garage.local>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEDF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<000d01c8b9cd$aa91b850$8215a8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <000601c8b9d1$b72b22a0$258167e0$@com>

Well, this reply has made my day!!  I was having a fairly crappy Monday, but
reading this account has put a huge smile on my face.  Thanks!!

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 12:31
To: 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

had to add this story.  my mechanic, what a moron, i should say former 
mechanic, mounted the fan on the front of the radiator (pusher), but it was 
pulling.  no joke.  it was set up to pull air from the engine compartment 
out the front of the car.  worked ok because he set it up with a thermostat 
and removed the regular fan.  but it didn't come on until the engine got 
kind of hot, so i decided to put in a switch and put the regular fan back 
on.  yeah.  that didn't work too well . . .

and he managed to find the only fan i think on the planet where if you 
reverse the leads it doesn't turn the other direction.  after i replaced it 
i found out you could reverse the fan blades.  anyone want it????

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon May 19 11:23:09 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 13:23:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
Message-ID: <29694625.346191211217790146.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web02-z02>

Stan;

Try the SPAL fans. I hear they have a pretty shallow profile. I wasn't smart enough to buy one of those at the outset and ended up using a different brand that had to be mounted lower, to allow the fan hub to clear the cross bar. But it works fine!

Here's a page for reference:  http://www.the-fan-man.com/shop/spal-electric-fans-c-33.html?page=3&sort=2a

Dave Friedlander
Maine
'74 TR6
 
-----Original Message----- 
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net 
[6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On 
Behalf Of Foster, Stan 
Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 7:46 PM 
To: 6-Pack 
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted 
 
I'm looking for a recommendation for an electric  fan that will fit a 74 
TR6 
with a standard radiator. I bought a random Hayden 16 inch fan on ebay 
(it was 
cheap) and of course the thing is too bulky to fit between the rad and 
the 
cross bar. I would like the largest fan possible (close to 16 inches ?), 
I 
don't mind making up brackets. I would prefer to attach on or close to 
the 
edge of the rad so bigger is better than smaller, definitely want to 
avoid 
those horrid plastic push through fasteners,  but it needs to be low 
profile 
to fit into that narrow space. 
 
Thanks.. 
 
Stan 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon May 19 11:34:37 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 10:34:37 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan horror story
In-Reply-To: <000601c8b9d1$b72b22a0$258167e0$@com>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAAEDF@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com><000d01c8b9cd$aa91b850$8215a8c0@garage.local>
	<000601c8b9d1$b72b22a0$258167e0$@com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03CAB215@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Oliver:

	I had to laugh because this is so much like me when I work on a
project.

	1. Get the fan.
	2. Fan doesn't fit. Send fan back, get new fan.
	3. Install new fan. Blow fuse. Correct wiring error made during
installation.
	4. Discover fan is blowing wrong way. Reverse wires. Fan still
blows wrong way.
	5. Remove fan, reverse blades.
	6. Order replacement parts for fan that were damaged during
removal and reversal.
	7. Install fan with new parts.
	8. Drive car - fan makes horrible sounds due to blades hitting
radiator.
	9. Determine that left over fan parts were spacers needed to
prevent blades from hitting
           radiator.
      10. Rummage through trash to find discarded spacers.
	11. Remove fan, reinstall with spacers.
	12... Etc.

	So your experience could have been much worse. *I* could have
been your mechanic.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Oliver
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 12:31
To: 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

had to add this story.  my mechanic, what a moron, i should say former
mechanic, mounted the fan on the front of the radiator (pusher), but it
was
pulling.  no joke.  it was set up to pull air from the engine
compartment
out the front of the car.  worked ok because he set it up with a
thermostat
and removed the regular fan.  but it didn't come on until the engine got

kind of hot, so i decided to put in a switch and put the regular fan
back
on.  yeah.  that didn't work too well . . .

and he managed to find the only fan i think on the planet where if you
reverse the leads it doesn't turn the other direction.  after i replaced
it
i found out you could reverse the fan blades.  anyone want it????
You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu  Mon May 19 12:16:41 2008
From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 12:16:41 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
Message-ID: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>

Its also specifically talking about manifolds and carburetors for a 2000TC. 
Might have more in common with the GT6 than the TR6. Which always used 1-/34" 
carbs (never 1-1/2) but did use two different intake manifolds (short runner 
and long runner).

The head numbers could be the same, other than thickness for compression, but 
the manifolds could very well be apples and oranges.

Shawn


>===== Original Message From "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com> 
=====
> 	Tony:
>
>	If I am reading the article correctly, the gas flow imbalance
>was with
>
>	1. The older style manifold
>	2. 1-1/2" Zeniths
>
>	If you are running the late head, you will be running the better
>flowing late manifold and 1-3/4" Zeniths. So I would expect this to be a
>non-issue for you. I believe he commented in the article that with the
>newer manifold the issue pretty much went away.
>
>	Vance
>
>
>    Vance Navarrette
>    Cogito Ergo Zoom
>    I think, therefore I go fast
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
>[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
>Behalf Of Tony Gordon
>Sent: Friday, May 16, 2008 6:14 PM
>To: 6pack; TR list
>Cc: Ibsen Dow
>Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
>
><snip>
>
>In a recent exchange with Ibsen Dow on this question, as I was sending
>him
>some information from Chris Witor, I noticed that he (Chris, not Ibsen)
>had
>made reference to the fact that he has gas flowed all the big 6 heads
>(and I
>have his table of head characteristics ... but alas, it lacks the flow
>rates),
>but what is interesting is the fact that he has determined that cyls. 2
>and 5
>are underfed with the standard 2 Stromberg manifold ... have a look at
>the
>tables in his analysis (this was on the sixappeal website ... but its
>gone
>from there, so I've echoe'd it ...
>http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Witor.mht).
>
>Any idea what Chris did to rework the inlet manifold to balance the gas
>flow?
>Kastner is NFG since he dealt with PI or webers only, and William's
>doesn't
>reference any fine tuning of the standard 2xCDS manifold in his Tuning
>TR250
>and TR6 book ...
>
><snip>
>
>**************************************
>Tony Gordon
>72 TR6
>**************************************
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as sloseke at holly.colostate.edu

From wsteinman at pogolaw.com  Mon May 19 13:40:26 2008
From: wsteinman at pogolaw.com (Steinman, Bill)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 15:40:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] To those in the DC area
In-Reply-To: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
Message-ID: <82A974D0BA5A5E4C85412B56F8C0D4B206DBA2@US-EXCH-VS02.US.PGFM.NET>

Howdy all!  Some friends and I in the DC area have been toying with the
idea of putting together a loose confederation (let's NOT use the word
"club") of LBC owners to get together from time to time.  Sort of a
"cars and coffee" type idea, followed perhaps by a drive in the area.
Most of us are in the Bethesda-Chevy Chase-NW DC area, but that of
course isn't essential.  If you've got a Healey and you're in the DC
area, and wouldn't mind gathering with other LBC people on an informal
basis -- like a Saturday morning in a supermarket or starbucks parking
lot -- drop me an email!



*************


Bill S.
2005 Lotus Elise
1968 Triumph TR-250
1968 MGC Tourer
1966 Austin Healey 3000 Mk III
1965 Sunbeam Tiger
1959 Austin Healey 3000

Tedious but unavoidable disclaimer follows...



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Thank you.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 19 18:31:54 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 19:31:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] up for grabs
References: <49f668fe0804271534l3e73cfd9j8fad70da248fa38f@mail.gmail.com><00fd01c8a8d3$f620f520$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<01a701c8a8bd$744b33f0$c7fba8c0@hp>
Message-ID: <005001c8ba10$ece62d10$8215a8c0@garage.local>

hi, all.

i posted clutch master and slave cylinders, used and needing rebuilt, on 
ebay.  got no takers.

anyone want them for like $5 postage?

or maybe they really are worth nothing . . .

oh, well.

otherwise i guess its the trash can.  no, wait.  i'll shine them all up and 
sell them as nos.  isn't that what everyone does????? 

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Mon May 19 18:54:00 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:54:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
Message-ID: <20080520005115.6054E187668@autox.team.net>

Any opinion on whether a snug fitting shroud properlydesigned to channel the air would make it th same?

Jim 
1957 MGA #311

-----Original Message-----

From:  "Joseph Grant" <grant at bowtie6.com>
Subj:  Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
Date:  Mon May 19, 2008 10:25 am
Size:  1K
To:  "'Navarrette, Vance'" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>,        "'Foster, Stan'"<stan.foster at hp.com>,        "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>

Vance,

A pusher fan is not as efficient as a puller fan.  It is a documented fact.
The pusher fan is approx 80% less efficient than a puller.  This is not
something I am making up.  I have read this several times in different
places.  One such place is here:
http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/efans.htm#installed - you might need to scroll
down that page a little, but it is there.

Regards,

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:21
To: Foster, Stan; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

 	Stan:

	Is the fan reversible? Mount on the front of the radiator as a
pusher. There is no cooling penalty for doing so.

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Mon May 19 19:29:31 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 21:29:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
References: <20080520005115.6054E187668@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <056701c8ba18$f4227720$c7fba8c0@hp>

Might make it better.....but not even close to being the same as a sucker...
Bob
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Jim Juhas
  To: Joseph Grant ; 'Navarrette, Vance' ; 'Foster,Stan' ; '6-Pack'
  Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 8:54 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted


  Any opinion on whether a snug fitting shroud properlydesigned to channel the
air would make it th same?

  Jim
  1957 MGA #311

  -----Original Message-----

  From:  "Joseph Grant" <grant at bowtie6.com>
  Subj:  Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
  Date:  Mon May 19, 2008 10:25 am
  Size:  1K
  To:  "'Navarrette, Vance'" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>,        "'Foster,
Stan'"<stan.foster at hp.com>,        "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>

  Vance,

  A pusher fan is not as efficient as a puller fan.  It is a documented fact.
  The pusher fan is approx 80% less efficient than a puller.  This is not
  something I am making up.  I have read this several times in different
  places.  One such place is here:
  http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/efans.htm#installed - you might need to
scroll
  down that page a little, but it is there.

  Regards,

  Joe
  '72 TR6 - CC77169
  http://www.bowtie6.com/

  -----Original Message-----
  From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
  [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
  Navarrette, Vance
  Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:21
  To: Foster, Stan; 6-Pack
  Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted

    Stan:

  Is the fan reversible? Mount on the front of the radiator as a
  pusher. There is no cooling penalty for doing so.
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com


-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
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  No virus found in this incoming message.
  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1454 - Release Date: 5/19/2008
7:44 AM

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon May 19 19:32:03 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 21:32:03 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
Message-ID: <d31.2e97d472.35638413@aol.com>

Joe,
Don't you mean that a pusher is 20% less efficient? or 80% as  efficient?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Wondering what's for Dinner Tonight? Get new twists on family 
favorites at AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/dinner-tonight?NCID=aolfod00030000000001)

From glenn.rierson at verizon.net  Mon May 19 19:34:28 2008
From: glenn.rierson at verizon.net (Glenn Rierson)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 20:34:28 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
In-Reply-To: <20080520005115.6054E187668@autox.team.net>
References: <20080520005115.6054E187668@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <FA38821159FC404F86148F20C24C8E13@GlennPC>

Jim,

On my TR6 I use a 16" pusher fan with a factory shroud and original crank 
driven cooling fan.  The coolant is 50/50 water to antifreeze and 
"HyperCool" additive.  This works in our 100+ Texas summer heat.

Glenn

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Jim Juhas" <james.f.juhas at snet.net>
To: "Joseph Grant" <grant at bowtie6.com>; "'Navarrette, Vance'" 
<vance.navarrette at intel.com>; "'Foster, Stan'" <stan.foster at hp.com>; 
"'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 7:54 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted


> Any opinion on whether a snug fitting shroud properlydesigned to channel 
> the air would make it th same?
>
> Jim
> 1957 MGA #311
>
> -----Original Message-----
>
> From:  "Joseph Grant" <grant at bowtie6.com>
> Subj:  Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
> Date:  Mon May 19, 2008 10:25 am
> Size:  1K
> To:  "'Navarrette, Vance'" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>,        "'Foster, 
> Stan'"<stan.foster at hp.com>,        "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
>
> Vance,
>
> A pusher fan is not as efficient as a puller fan.  It is a documented 
> fact.
> The pusher fan is approx 80% less efficient than a puller.  This is not
> something I am making up.  I have read this several times in different
> places.  One such place is here:
> http://www.perma-cool.com/faq/efans.htm#installed - you might need to 
> scroll
> down that page a little, but it is there.
>
> Regards,
>
> Joe
> '72 TR6 - CC77169
> http://www.bowtie6.com/
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
> Navarrette, Vance
> Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 10:21
> To: Foster, Stan; 6-Pack
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
>
>  Stan:
>
> Is the fan reversible? Mount on the front of the radiator as a
> pusher. There is no cooling penalty for doing so.
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as glenn.rierson at verizon.net


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------



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From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Mon May 19 20:53:26 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Mon, 19 May 2008 22:53:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Need Paint Expertise for Opinion
Message-ID: <001801c8ba24$ad767630$6101a8c0@phoenix>

Listers,

If anyone considers themselves very knowledgeable about auto paint please
contact me off-list.  It would be greatly appreciated as I need some advice.

Thanks.
Greg Dito
CD6250L

From nosto53 at yahoo.com  Tue May 20 12:30:05 2008
From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 11:30:05 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Distributor new, but 28 degs in timing ?
Message-ID: <814821.77348.qm@web37502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I am trying to put my new dist in. (Jeff at AdvancedDistributors)
  I tested my 'old' dist (points and condenser) and my ign timing was 10deg. BTDC
   
  I took my old dist and pinch bolt out.
  Then I put the new dist at the same was the drive dog. (I think?). 
  Put the new in ('Ignitor' Pertronix).
   
  New cap and rotor, new red/black wires.  Start car OK, 900rpm
  BUT... 3-4 mins, the RPM gone up to 2500rpm?
   
  I was testing the timing gun and the ign was 28deg?
  But went I used to old one - the deg was OK.
   
  Do I have a explanation for this?
  I am confusion.
  Is my drive dog OK - not in 180?
   
  RickO
  '72 TR6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue May 20 13:23:51 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 12:23:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Distributor new, but 28 degs in timing ?
In-Reply-To: richard olson <nosto53@yahoo.com>'s message of Tue, 20 May
	2008 11:30:05 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <27209-48332547-8885@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>

Richard---If the engine is running at 2500 rpm, then you could be seeing
28 deg. with the timing light. Nothing wrong, here. The question
is...why is the engine running this fast? Is it throttle linkage
related? Choke out?

We know that advanced timing will speed up an engine, to a certain
point, but not to 2800 rpm.

I don't believe that your re-pinning the drive dog put it 180 out, as
this would've put the rotor pointing to #6 rather than #1 plug wire in
the cap.

Let us know what you find!

Dick

 From: nosto53 at yahoo.com(richard olson)

I am trying to put my new dist in. (Jeff at AdvancedDistributors) I tested
my 'old' dist (points and condenser) and my ign timing was 10deg. BTDC
    I took my old dist and pinch bolt out.
    Then I put the new dist at the same was the drive dog. (I
think?). Put the new in ('Ignitor' Pertronix).
    New cap and rotor, new red/black wires. Start car OK, 900rpm
BUT... 3-4 mins, the RPM gone up to 2500rpm?
    I was testing the timing gun and the ign was 28deg? But went
I used to old one - the deg was OK.
    Do I have a explanation for this?
  I am confusion.
  Is my drive dog OK - not in 180?
    RickO
  '72 TR6
______________________________________

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Tue May 20 19:59:08 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 21:59:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
Message-ID: <F279970FC95A43B98704B4AA5F2B4A3D@D1TG6Y71>

I must admit I had thought the same ... and to that end I thought I'd look
at my collection of Triumph "history" books and looked at the design of the
various manifolds. At a glance, it seems that the 2000, Vitesse, and GT6
manifolds are all very stubby -- very short and it is difficult to see a
distinct runner -- and the 2500-TR250-6 manifolds are all somewhat similar
in shape with visible and longer runners.  I plan to call Chris Witor to see
if he can shed any light on the manifold design question in his article, but
I suspect you (and others) are right .. this applies to the 1.5" short
runner manifold design.

Moving on to the TR6 with its longer runner 3-1 manifolds in terms of
breathing, and from a purely bar-room mechanic view of how a one-to-three
manifold might work, I would guess that there has to be some flow
differences between 1 & 3 compared to 2 (and 4 & 6 with 5) since the runner
length is different.  Of course, I don't have a manifold to hand to look at
the runner I/Ds to see if they are smaller for any of the legs, or if there
are any flow shaping differences between the various legs of the manifold.
The differences in flow per cylinder will be less than that mentioned in
Witor's T2000 manifold tuning article, I'm sure, but I'd be interested to
learn what the difference was!

In terms of runner design, Kastner mentions in his tuning guide that the PI
and Weber cars really benefited from the nicely sculpted single runner per
cylinder design, and also showed that by lengthening the runners/trumpets,
you can increase the power: his work seems to show that (counter intuitively
...?) mounting the PI injectors as far away from the valves as possible
increased power and race performance.  The after-market EFI thinking seems
to assume that squirting the injected fuel at the back of the inlet valve is
the best approach, and so injectors are mounted very close to the valves.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shawn J. Loseke" <sloseke at holly.colostate.edu>
Sent: Monday, May 19, 2008 2:16 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question


> Its also specifically talking about manifolds and carburetors for a 
> 2000TC.
> Might have more in common with the GT6 than the TR6. Which always used 
> 1-/34"
> carbs (never 1-1/2) but did use two different intake manifolds (short 
> runner
> and long runner).
>
> The head numbers could be the same, other than thickness for compression, 
> but
> the manifolds could very well be apples and oranges.
>
> Shawn

From levilevi at comcast.net  Tue May 20 22:11:48 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Tue, 20 May 2008 22:11:48 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7316DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <003801c8baf8$cb220800$9d63b043@rolofson>

Stan,

I mounted a 16 inch puller. Its a low profile Spal.  At first I couldn't
figure out how to mount the fan to get enough clearance from the crossmember.
As I looked it occurred to me that the shroud would almost fit inside of the
sides and the edge of the top and the bottom of the radiator.  I gave it a bit
of encouragement and it popped right in there.  The fit was just a little too
tight and the fan wouldn't turn freely so I pulled it out and "stretched" the
sides of the radiator just a little by hooking the edge on my anvil and
pulling the other side by hand....very carefully.  Now I can't guarantee you
won't  break a solder joint in your radiator, but when I put the fan back in
it fit tight as can be and the blades spun freely.  I thought about using
those ties through the radiator as I'd done in the past with the 14 inch
pusher I'd had previously on the front of the radiator but the 16 inch fan fit
into the radiator so nice and snug I thought I'd try running without anything
at all holding it in other than the edges of the radiator.  I did put four
little adhesive backed sponges they give you on the shroud where they touch
the fins which gives it a cushion fit, but the sponges are the only thing
touching the fins.  The shroud enclosing the fan ends up being about as tight
a shroud as possible next to the radiator fins so it is very efficient.  I
used nothing else to secure it to the radiator only the edges of the radiator
are holding the shroud of the fan.  Put it in and now have about 1/16 inch
clearance from the crossmember and the fan has not moved whatsoever (Denver to
Valley Forge and back was the true test)....even if it thought about moving it
ain't going far with crossmember in the way.  Sometimes the easiest solution
is the best...at least it worked for me..so far.

Good Luck
Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Foster, Stan
  To: 6-Pack
  Sent: Saturday, May 17, 2008 8:46 PM
  Subject: [6pack] Electric fan recommendation wanted


  I'm looking for a recommendation for an electric  fan that will fit a 74
TR6
  with a standard radiator. I bought a random Hayden 16 inch fan on ebay (it
was
  cheap) and of course the thing is too bulky to fit between the rad and the
  cross bar. I would like the largest fan possible (close to 16 inches ?), I
  don't mind making up brackets. I would prefer to attach on or close to the
  edge of the rad so bigger is better than smaller, definitely want to avoid
  those horrid plastic push through fasteners,  but it needs to be low
profile
  to fit into that narrow space.

  Thanks..

  Stan
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed May 21 09:08:03 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 16:08:03 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
	<F279970FC95A43B98704B4AA5F2B4A3D@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <004701c8bb54$78b03540$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> Moving on to the TR6 with its longer runner 3-1 manifolds in terms of
> breathing, and from a purely bar-room mechanic view of how a one-to-three
> manifold might work, I would guess that there has to be some flow
> differences between 1 & 3 compared to 2 (and 4 & 6 with 5) since the runner
> length is different.  Of course, I don't have a manifold to hand to look at
> the runner I/Ds to see if they are smaller for any of the legs, or if there
> are any flow shaping differences between the various legs of the manifold.
> The differences in flow per cylinder will be less than that mentioned in
> Witor's T2000 manifold tuning article, I'm sure, but I'd be interested to
> learn what the difference was!

Tony, if it helps, I've got a used Witor recommended manifold on my PI. It's the type I always 
recommend when this topic crops up as it's the 6-3-1 type. FWIW (and I believe the manifold in 
question is the former pattern from SAH and Triumphtune/Moss) the individual pipes are all (visibly) 
about the same length. Indeed, the pipe for #6 curves behind pipes 2 to 5 and snicks neatly in to 
#1. Many of us in the UK believe this design is arguably the best because the scavenging effect is 
best and with pipes of roughly equal length it can be argued the *bangs* all have to travel an equal 
distance before getting mixed up with all the other *bangs*. Certainly, this set-up makes a 
phenomenal difference to performance as a whole and makes an overall noise that probably isn't legal 
through just one main silencer and a tailpipe resonator. Gives me a splitting headache after a 
while - but what the hell, you can hear everything is working just fine!

Jonmac 

From triosan at gmail.com  Wed May 21 09:34:18 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 08:34:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Inlet Manifold Question
In-Reply-To: <004701c8bb54$78b03540$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
	<F279970FC95A43B98704B4AA5F2B4A3D@D1TG6Y71>
	<004701c8bb54$78b03540$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0805210834n7e69920wed0e67a32c6a0d7a@mail.gmail.com>

You can see this header at:
http://picasaweb.google.com/Triosan/KingstonHeaderVerusPacesetter

The header John was referring to was supplied by Tony-Lindsey Dean of
Kingston ?? in the UK.  By a qirk of construction mine now goes to a single
silencer under the passenger seat sice and exits straight down at the
entrance to the tunnel the exhaust pipe was supposed to go in.  Loud
[beautiful in a race car, helmet cuts the noise].

On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 8:08 AM, John Macartney <
standardtriumph at btinternet.com> wrote:

> > Moving on to the TR6 with its longer runner 3-1 manifolds in terms of
> > breathing, and from a purely bar-room mechanic view of how a one-to-three
> > manifold might work, I would guess that there has to be some flow
> > differences between 1 & 3 compared to 2 (and 4 & 6 with 5) since the
> runner
> > length is different.  Of course, I don't have a manifold to hand to look
> at
> > the runner I/Ds to see if they are smaller for any of the legs, or if
> there
> > are any flow shaping differences between the various legs of the
> manifold.
> > The differences in flow per cylinder will be less than that mentioned in
> > Witor's T2000 manifold tuning article, I'm sure, but I'd be interested to
> > learn what the difference was!
>
> Tony, if it helps, I've got a used Witor recommended manifold on my PI.
> It's the type I always
> recommend when this topic crops up as it's the 6-3-1 type. FWIW (and I
> believe the manifold in
> question is the former pattern from SAH and Triumphtune/Moss) the
> individual pipes are all (visibly)
> about the same length. Indeed, the pipe for #6 curves behind pipes 2 to 5
> and snicks neatly in to
> #1. Many of us in the UK believe this design is arguably the best because
> the scavenging effect is
> best and with pipes of roughly equal length it can be argued the *bangs*
> all have to travel an equal
> distance before getting mixed up with all the other *bangs*. Certainly,
> this set-up makes a
> phenomenal difference to performance as a whole and makes an overall noise
> that probably isn't legal
> through just one main silencer and a tailpipe resonator. Gives me a
> splitting headache after a
> while - but what the hell, you can hear everything is working just fine!
>
> Jonmac
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 21 11:54:47 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 13:54:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize?
Message-ID: <000001c8bb6b$c43806c0$210110ac@bobspc>

I just removed my leaky water pump and, of course, the nuts were frozen
solid but at least the studs backed out easily. I ended up cutting the nuts
off the stud with my Dremel. So what's the best thing to use when
re-installing the new pump? Anti-seize on both ends of the stud or Lock-Tite
on the engine side of the stud and anti-seize on the nut end? I'm leaning
toward anti-seize on both ends as it's always nice to have "options" when
removing a nut from a stud i.e. nut comes off or stud and nut back out
together.

Also.....hylomar on the water pump gasket?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Wed May 21 12:34:39 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 14:34:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize?
In-Reply-To: <000001c8bb6b$c43806c0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c8bb6b$c43806c0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <e343023f0805211134x217e89fs2c5f3177ea493862@mail.gmail.com>

Bob:
I would recommended using anti-seize because I believe that one or two of
the bolts used to attach the water pump are exposed to water because they
are attached through a water jacket or thermostat housing. Using Lock-Tite
in lieu of lock washers is preferred by some people, but either one should
be just fine.
Hope this helps.
Bob

On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 1:54 PM, Bob Danielson <
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:

> I just removed my leaky water pump and, of course, the nuts were frozen
> solid but at least the studs backed out easily. I ended up cutting the nuts
> off the stud with my Dremel. So what's the best thing to use when
> re-installing the new pump? Anti-seize on both ends of the stud or
> Lock-Tite
> on the engine side of the stud and anti-seize on the nut end? I'm leaning
> toward anti-seize on both ends as it's always nice to have "options" when
> removing a nut from a stud i.e. nut comes off or stud and nut back out
> together.
>
> Also.....hylomar on the water pump gasket?
>
> Thanks
>
> Bob
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 21 14:18:22 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 16:18:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize?
In-Reply-To: <e343023f0805211134x217e89fs2c5f3177ea493862@mail.gmail.com>
References: <000001c8bb6b$c43806c0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<e343023f0805211134x217e89fs2c5f3177ea493862@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000501c8bb7f$d3d213a0$210110ac@bobspc>

Thanks Bob......  I went with anti-seize on both ends of the stud and
hylomar on the gasket. No leaks!
 

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
 <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

 

  _____  

From: robert fabie [mailto:bobfabie at gmail.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 2:35 PM
To: Bob Danielson
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Lock-Tite or Anti-Seize?


Bob:
I would recommended using anti-seize because I believe that one or two of
the bolts used to attach the water pump are exposed to water because they
are attached through a water jacket or thermostat housing. Using Lock-Tite
in lieu of lock washers is preferred by some people, but either one should
be just fine.
Hope this helps.
Bob


On Wed, May 21, 2008 at 1:54 PM, Bob Danielson
<75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote:


I just removed my leaky water pump and, of course, the nuts were frozen
solid but at least the studs backed out easily. I ended up cutting the nuts
off the stud with my Dremel. So what's the best thing to use when
re-installing the new pump? Anti-seize on both ends of the stud or Lock-Tite
on the engine side of the stud and anti-seize on the nut end? I'm leaning
toward anti-seize on both ends as it's always nice to have "options" when
removing a nut from a stud i.e. nut comes off or stud and nut back out
together.

Also.....hylomar on the water pump gasket?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org <http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/> 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com



No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.21/1457 - Release Date: 5/20/2008
4:45 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 21 21:04:41 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 23:04:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Done, Done, Done!
Message-ID: <000001c8bbb8$99e44670$210110ac@bobspc>

Finally.....I think I'm done with my winter work....from the car to the web
site. And sometimes I think the web site takes more time then the car! The
car now has a: Toyota 5 speed, Nissan differential, new upgraded brakes at
all 4 corners, Steering Column Bushings, Accelerator Shaft bushings, Poly
Tranny Tunnel, Even MORE FatMat, Nylatron Rear Suspension Bushings,
Goodparts' Trailing Arm Kit, New Solid Driveshaft, Rebuilt Servo, New Clutch
M/C, New Front and Rear Engine Seals, New Oil Pan Gasket, New Engine Mounts,
Grill Fixed, Engine Painted, New Water Pump and Web Site UPDATED!
Whew.........and the car runs great. I can't even imagine how you guys do a
frame off restoration and maintain your sanity. It's been a nerve racking
few months for me and my stuff pales when compared to what so many of you
do! I asked lots of questions and I always got lots of help from the two
Lists. You guys are great! Thanks so much.

Oh yea.... I redid lots of my links so I hope the site works OK for
everyone.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From levilevi at comcast.net  Wed May 21 21:55:29 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Wed, 21 May 2008 21:55:29 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Done, Done, Done!
References: <000001c8bbb8$99e44670$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <005a01c8bbbf$ade31ff0$9d63b043@rolofson>

Bob,

Congrats on finishing up.  What a great feeling.  I can never decide what is
more inspirational...your willingness to experiment with roadworthy upgrades
or your ability to document them on one of the very best TR websites (VTR
awards for it) out there.  For those of us that love a good upgrade thanks.

Bud Rolofson


P.S. my browser (IE 7) got an error message on these links, heat shield, carb
rebuild 06, and stub axle upgrade

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; '6-Pack'
  Cc: 'Rick Patton' ; AEGDesign at aol.com
  Sent: Wednesday, May 21, 2008 9:04 PM
  Subject: [TR] Done, Done, Done!


  Finally.....I think I'm done with my winter work....from the car to the web
  site. And sometimes I think the web site takes more time then the car! The
  car now has a: Toyota 5 speed, Nissan differential, new upgraded brakes at
  all 4 corners, Steering Column Bushings, Accelerator Shaft bushings, Poly
  Tranny Tunnel, Even MORE FatMat, Nylatron Rear Suspension Bushings,
  Goodparts' Trailing Arm Kit, New Solid Driveshaft, Rebuilt Servo, New
Clutch
  M/C, New Front and Rear Engine Seals, New Oil Pan Gasket, New Engine
Mounts,
  Grill Fixed, Engine Painted, New Water Pump and Web Site UPDATED!
  Whew.........and the car runs great. I can't even imagine how you guys do a
  frame off restoration and maintain your sanity. It's been a nerve racking
  few months for me and my stuff pales when compared to what so many of you
  do! I asked lots of questions and I always got lots of help from the two
  Lists. You guys are great! Thanks so much.

  Oh yea.... I redid lots of my links so I hope the site works OK for
  everyone.

  Bob

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From Lizirbydavis at cs.com  Thu May 22 05:08:43 2008
From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com (Lizirbydavis at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 07:08:43 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Done, Done, Done!
Message-ID: <c99.26ebf84d.3566ae3b@cs.com>

Bob, congratulations on the car! Your effort on the website has benefited a 
lot of us.  Thanks
Joe   

From samuelsma at aol.com  Thu May 22 07:37:54 2008
From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 09:37:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] selling a TR6
Message-ID: <8CA8A282C2124EC-17F0-1833@MBLK-M03.sysops.aol.com>

Listers:

I have been trying to sell my Tahiti blue car for a few months now.? I'm sure that some of you have seen it in Ebay (twice) or in Hemmings (on-line version, 1 month).? I have had much interest but have not actually managed to sell the car.? I can think of many possible reasons:

1.? I set the price too high
2.? Others don't like the modifications or some other aspect of the car
3.? The market is soft right now
4.? All of the above

The reason for this post is to get advice on what is the best method to actually sell the car.? Where would you guys suggest listing it?? Is the car grossly overpriced?? The expired Ebay link is below.? I set the reserve at $17,250.? I have about $30,000 in the car, not that that is relevant to anything at all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Triumph-TR6-Restored-many-upgrades_W0QQitemZ190217789963QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks as always.? I'm tempted to?just keep?the car for a couple of?years until the market firms back up.

Michael
Miami Beach, FL

From rmcbride at mi.rr.com  Thu May 22 08:00:55 2008
From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 10:00:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] selling a TR6
References: <8CA8A282C2124EC-17F0-1833@MBLK-M03.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <106001c8bc14$414c8200$c7fba8c0@hp>

Mine is a completely stock  same year, color, but with overdrive, radio and 
no luggage rack, with under 30,000 miles..  And I don't think I could get 
$17,250 for it right now..  So yes with all the work that has been done on 
yours which I consider a bad thing and the high mileage I think right now 
you are way out of the ballpark as you have found out with the eBay auction 
max bid......So if you can keep it and enjoy it till things turn around...if 
you can wait that long.....Remember there are a lot of newer better designed 
sport cars out there now for people to consider buying...Bob M


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <samuelsma at aol.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, May 22, 2008 9:37 AM
Subject: [6pack] selling a TR6


Listers:

I have been trying to sell my Tahiti blue car for a few months now.? I'm 
sure that some of you have seen it in Ebay (twice) or in Hemmings (on-line 
version, 1 month).? I have had much interest but have not actually managed 
to sell the car.? I can think of many possible reasons:

1.? I set the price too high
2.? Others don't like the modifications or some other aspect of the car
3.? The market is soft right now
4.? All of the above

The reason for this post is to get advice on what is the best method to 
actually sell the car.? Where would you guys suggest listing it?? Is the car 
grossly overpriced?? The expired Ebay link is below.? I set the reserve at 
$17,250.? I have about $30,000 in the car, not that that is relevant to 
anything at all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Triumph-TR6-Restored-many-upgrades_W0QQitemZ190217789963QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks as always.? I'm tempted to?just keep?the car for a couple of?years 
until the market firms back up.

Michael
Miami Beach, FL

From tr6 at pobox.com  Thu May 22 11:43:33 2008
From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph)
Date: Thu, 22 May 2008 12:43:33 -0500
Subject: [6pack] selling a TR6
In-Reply-To: <8CA8A282C2124EC-17F0-1833@MBLK-M03.sysops.aol.com>
References: <8CA8A282C2124EC-17F0-1833@MBLK-M03.sysops.aol.com>
Message-ID: <4835B0C5.4060201@pobox.com>

caveat: I am no expert of TR6 values...  I bought mine in 1983 and have 
never sold it.

In general, I suspect you will find that 90+% of the folks you talk to 
have more money in their cars than they are worth.  I know I do.  I have 
never added it up, but I suspect I have as much in mine as you do (if 
you adjust for inflation) -- and mine is not nearly as nice as yours 
looks.  (In fact, mine looks a little rough.)

I also think you will find 2 distinct sets of people:
1. the purists.  They are willing to pay more for a lesser car if it is 
original.  These folks probably aren't interested in your car at any 
price.  (Not that there's anything wrong with your tinkering with it -- 
it just doesnt interest them.)

2. the tinkerers.  They want to play and tweak and try to make the old 
girl more modern.  While these folks might be interested in your car, 
they are also probably wanting to do most of the tinkering themselves.

So in short, pretty much every mod you make is going to have an adverse 
effect on the price of the car for both sets of people.  One group sees 
it as something they have to "undo" and the other sees it as something 
they "dont get to do."

samuelsma at aol.com wrote:
> Listers:
> 
> I have been trying to sell my Tahiti blue car for a few months now.? I'm sure that some of you have seen it in Ebay (twice) or in Hemmings (on-line version, 1 month).? I have had much interest but have not actually managed to sell the car.? I can think of many possible reasons:
> 
> 1.? I set the price too high
> 2.? Others don't like the modifications or some other aspect of the car
> 3.? The market is soft right now
> 4.? All of the above
> 
> The reason for this post is to get advice on what is the best method to actually sell the car.? Where would you guys suggest listing it?? Is the car grossly overpriced?? The expired Ebay link is below.? I set the reserve at $17,250.? I have about $30,000 in the car, not that that is relevant to anything at all.
> 
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Triumph-TR6-Restored-many-upgrades_W0QQitemZ190217789963QQcmdZViewItem
> 
> Thanks as always.? I'm tempted to?just keep?the car for a couple of?years until the market firms back up.
> 
> Michael
> Miami Beach, FL
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as tr6 at pobox.com

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Fri May 23 01:09:37 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 00:09:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] selling a TR6
Message-ID: <897653.34955.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

It could just be the pictures on this laptop but that looks 'French Blue' to me. How close are the Tahiti and French Blue anyhow?
Nice car but you're going to have to wait around for awhile if you want to get a premium for it.
Kendall
French Blue 74.5

--------
The reason for this post is to get advice on what is the best method to actually sell the car.? Where would you guys suggest listing it?? Is the car grossly overpriced?? The expired Ebay link is below.? I set the reserve at $17,250.? I have about $30,000 in the car, not that that is relevant to anything at all.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1976-Triumph-TR6-Restored-many-upgrades_W0QQitemZ190217789963QQcmdZViewItem

Thanks as always.? I'm tempted to?just keep?the car for a couple of?years until the market firms back up.

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Fri May 23 08:20:29 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 07:20:29 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show
Message-ID: <200805231420.m4NEKUaL029830@upsa-web110.ofoto.com>

The UBSCC in Sacramento hosted a show last weekend in Woodland, CA that allowed me to show my rolling chassis.  I had a big crowd around the car all day checking it out in all its "nakedness".  Thought I would share my progress with the group.
Andy


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.b8mr2lmz&x=0&y=96y08r&localeid=en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.




------------------------------------------------------------
The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team
Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada

------------------------------------------------------------




If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.b8mr2lmz&x=0&y=96y08r&localeid=en_US

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Fri May 23 13:19:39 2008
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 15:19:39 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show
Message-ID: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>

Hi Andy
Go RATCO!! Nearing completion on my project. My pics don't reflect the latest
since I've been rewiring recently using the Dan Masters Power Block. But the
entire car has been repainted finally with wings, bonnet other Brit-named
parts painted and residing in storage until I get the painted tub wired. In
particular, I've got triple Goodies instead of Webs. See
http://www.triumphowners.com/977
Jerry


Message: 2
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 07:20:29 -0700 (PDT)
From: apackard68 at comcast.net
Subject: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Message-ID: <200805231420.m4NEKUaL029830 at upsa-web110.ofoto.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The UBSCC in Sacramento hosted a show last weekend in Woodland, CA that
allowed me to show my rolling chassis.  I had a big crowd around the car all
day checking it out in all its "nakedness".  Thought I would share my progress
with the group.
Andy


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.b8mr2lmz&x=0&y=96y08r&localeid=en
_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can
join the Gallery for free.

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Fri May 23 13:44:53 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 12:44:53 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] ANDY'S ROLLING CHASSIS
Message-ID: <552124.56426.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

WooHoo.&nbsp; That's one clean looking setup.&nbsp; Was that triple side draft Webbers?&nbsp; How well do they work?&nbsp; Also, what kind of differential was that?
&nbsp;
And,&nbsp;while I'm on the subject of improved parts, does anyone have a link for the Toyota or whatever it was front brake caliper conversion.&nbsp; The calipers on&nbsp;my 69 were so rusted that they couldn't be rebuilt so I thought I might as well do the conversion as try to find and rebuild stock ones.
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 19870 and 1969 TR 6s&nbsp; 

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri May 23 13:46:06 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 15:46:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 connecting rod dimensions
References: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
Message-ID: <BB580FD8DD0E4F9DABD186AEED0D61BA@D1TG6Y71>

After seeing how a Chevy rod could be used in a TR4, I've been doing a 
little looking around, and have seen some rods by Eagle that "might" be 
close ... I don't have the actual factory dimension for the rods, so 
wondered whether any had actually done some really good measurements?

I have the following nomial sizes and wonder ig anyone could verfity the EB 
ones (Mk. 1 eyeball with digital caplier assistance!) .. the BM ones are 
from the Bentley manual.

Rod between centers: 5.8" (EB)
Small end bore: 0.937-0.938" (BM)
Wrist pin dia: 0.8122-0.8126" (BM)
Con. Rod bore: 2.015" (EB)
Crank Pin dia: 1.8750-1.8755" (BM)
Rod thickness: 0.9" (EB)

In case anyone has gone down this path ... the Eagle Ford Zetec log rod 
looks promising 5.7", 2.00" and 0.927" and at $320 for 4, a real deal!

Tony Gordon

From sbeaulieu at caci.com  Fri May 23 14:02:46 2008
From: sbeaulieu at caci.com (Stephen Beaulieu)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 16:02:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] St
Message-ID: <OFDA9F14D0.4CAC0255-ON85257452.006E1DFF-85257452.006E1DFF@caci.com>

I will be out of the office starting  05/23/2008 and will not return until 05/27/2008.

I will respond to your message when I return.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri May 23 14:20:35 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 16:20:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ANDY'S ROLLING CHASSIS
In-Reply-To: <552124.56426.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <552124.56426.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8bd12$77d3f660$210110ac@bobspc>

Mike,
Here's a couple of 4 pot links.

http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml

http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_install.htm

If you really want to go crazy......do the rears too

http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 3:45 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] ANDY'S ROLLING CHASSIS

WooHoo.&nbsp; That's one clean looking setup.&nbsp; Was that triple side
draft Webbers?&nbsp; How well do they work?&nbsp; Also, what kind of
differential was that?
&nbsp;
And,&nbsp;while I'm on the subject of improved parts, does anyone have a
link for the Toyota or whatever it was front brake caliper conversion.&nbsp;
The calipers on&nbsp;my 69 were so rusted that they couldn't be rebuilt so I
thought I might as well do the conversion as try to find and rebuild stock
ones.
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 19870 and 1969 TR 6s&nbsp;
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.0/1461 - Release Date: 5/22/2008
4:44 PM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May 23 14:23:35 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 13:23:35 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show
In-Reply-To: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
References: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03D4B687@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Jerry:

	Looking at your web page - dunno if you got your header
installation issues resolved or not, but they are pretty typical for
headers in general. In order to clear the mounting studs a reasonable
solution is to dimple the offending tube using a ball peen hammer. Mark
the spot that gets in the way and dimple it with the ball. It will not
affect flow to any measurable degree.
	I saw that you used a socket headed bolt, and that is also very
helpful. Sadly, warped flanges are also common. You could try using the
Moss heavy duty exhaust gasket, which would help a bit. Your solution of
machining is the best, albeit expensive and time consuming - and
unfortunately there is no guarantee it will not warp again.
	I think that given the premium one pays for stainless, one could
expect to avoid these fitment problems, but apparently not.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jerry Shaw
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 12:20 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show

Hi Andy
Go RATCO!! Nearing completion on my project. My pics don't reflect the
latest
since I've been rewiring recently using the Dan Masters Power Block. But
the
entire car has been repainted finally with wings, bonnet other
Brit-named
parts painted and residing in storage until I get the painted tub wired.
In
particular, I've got triple Goodies instead of Webs. See
http://www.triumphowners.com/977
Jerry

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Fri May 23 14:51:16 2008
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 16:51:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show
References: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03D4B687@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <002201c8bd16$bed48cb0$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>

Hi Vance
I did get a resolution to the exhaust interference issue.

Yes, you would think that after paying $500 for SS Falcon headers there 
wouldn't be a portion of the header that had been reworked by welding in a 
new section.

And yes, I used the Moss extra thick gasket, and yes I tried the dimple 
technique on another set of cheap headers, which I ended up throwing away.

I will assume that the welding process is much more stressful thermally than 
exposure to exhaust gases, so I'll keep my fingers crossed on the 
possibility of a re-warping of the flanges.

Jerry Shaw
ILLEGITIMIS NON CARBORUNDUM
Don't let the bastards grind you down.
General Joe Stilwell
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
To: "Jerry Shaw" <slowtoaccept at yahoo.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 4:23 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show


Jerry:

Looking at your web page - dunno if you got your header
installation issues resolved or not, but they are pretty typical for
headers in general. In order to clear the mounting studs a reasonable
solution is to dimple the offending tube using a ball peen hammer. Mark
the spot that gets in the way and dimple it with the ball. It will not
affect flow to any measurable degree.
I saw that you used a socket headed bolt, and that is also very
helpful. Sadly, warped flanges are also common. You could try using the
Moss heavy duty exhaust gasket, which would help a bit. Your solution of
machining is the best, albeit expensive and time consuming - and
unfortunately there is no guarantee it will not warp again.
I think that given the premium one pays for stainless, one could
expect to avoid these fitment problems, but apparently not.

Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jerry Shaw
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 12:20 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show

Hi Andy
Go RATCO!! Nearing completion on my project. My pics don't reflect the
latest
since I've been rewiring recently using the Dan Masters Power Block. But
the
entire car has been repainted finally with wings, bonnet other
Brit-named
parts painted and residing in storage until I get the painted tub wired.
In
particular, I've got triple Goodies instead of Webs. See
http://www.triumphowners.com/977
Jerry

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Fri May 23 18:50:16 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 20:50:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] ANDY'S ROLLING CHASSIS
In-Reply-To: <000a01c8bd12$77d3f660$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <552124.56426.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
	<000a01c8bd12$77d3f660$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <48376648.4000706@roadrunner.com>

Looks a bit hard to bleed those rear calipers!

Jim Franks

Bob Danielson wrote:
> Mike,
> Here's a couple of 4 pot links.
>
> http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml
>
> http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_install.htm
>
> If you really want to go crazy......do the rears too
>
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm
>
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of michael lunsford
> Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 3:45 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] ANDY'S ROLLING CHASSIS
>
> WooHoo.&nbsp; That's one clean looking setup.&nbsp; Was that triple side
> draft Webbers?&nbsp; How well do they work?&nbsp; Also, what kind of
> differential was that?
> &nbsp;
> And,&nbsp;while I'm on the subject of improved parts, does anyone have a
> link for the Toyota or whatever it was front brake caliper conversion.&nbsp;
> The calipers on&nbsp;my 69 were so rusted that they couldn't be rebuilt so I
> thought I might as well do the conversion as try to find and rebuild stock
> ones.
> &nbsp;
> Mike Lunsford, 19870 and 1969 TR 6s&nbsp;
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
> incoming message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.0/1461 - Release Date: 5/22/2008
> 4:44 PM
> _______________________________________________

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sat May 24 00:16:23 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 23:16:23 -0700
Subject: [6pack] ANDY'S ROLLING CHASSIS
In-Reply-To: <552124.56426.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080524061932.49E20187671@autox.team.net>

Mike:
Thanks.  I do run triple webers and they work well but I'll need to fine
tune after putting everything back together.  I run an HVDA Toyota Celica
Supra 5-speed with Goodparts Infiniti Q45 diff.  

VTR site has the best info on the 4-pot conversion.  I got my calipers at
the Toyota dealer for about $100 each.  

Andy.

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
michael lunsford
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 12:45 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] ANDY'S ROLLING CHASSIS

WooHoo.&nbsp; That's one clean looking setup.&nbsp; Was that triple side
draft Webbers?&nbsp; How well do they work?&nbsp; Also, what kind of
differential was that?
&nbsp;
And,&nbsp;while I'm on the subject of improved parts, does anyone have a
link for the Toyota or whatever it was front brake caliper conversion.&nbsp;
The calipers on&nbsp;my 69 were so rusted that they couldn't be rebuilt so I
thought I might as well do the conversion as try to find and rebuild stock
ones.
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 19870 and 1969 TR 6s&nbsp; 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as apackard68 at comcast.net

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sat May 24 00:16:23 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 23:16:23 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show
In-Reply-To: <000e01c8bd09$f2b2ab50$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice>
Message-ID: <20080524061934.AC039187649@autox.team.net>

Jerry:

I had to look twice a couple times since our colour schemes are so similar.
Very cool to see a similar project advancing.  I just saw my tub with paint
on it today, flipped upside down with a lovely signal red single stage.  

 

It looks like you have a stock tranny in yours.  My next challenge is to
solve the problem of the rear engine mount with HVDA conversion and Ratco
frame.  

 

Great to see the progress and good luck!

Andy

 

 

 

  _____  

From: Jerry Shaw [mailto:slowtoaccept at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Friday, May 23, 2008 12:20 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: apackard68 at comcast.net
Subject: Re: Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show

 

Hi Andy

Go RATCO!! Nearing completion on my project. My pics don't reflect the
latest since I've been rewiring recently using the Dan Masters Power Block.
But the entire car has been repainted finally with wings, bonnet other
Brit-named parts painted and residing in storage until I get the painted tub
wired. In particular, I've got triple Goodies instead of Webs. See
http://www.triumphowners.com/977

Jerry

 

 

Message: 2
Date: Fri, 23 May 2008 07:20:29 -0700 (PDT)
From:  <mailto:apackard68 at comcast.net> apackard68 at comcast.net
Subject: [6pack] Rolling Chassis on display at Woodland, CA car show
To:  <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net> 6pack at autox.team.net
Message-ID: < <mailto:200805231420.m4NEKUaL029830 at upsa-web110.ofoto.com>
200805231420.m4NEKUaL029830 at upsa-web110.ofoto.com>
Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"

The UBSCC in Sacramento hosted a show last weekend in Woodland, CA that
allowed me to show my rolling chassis.  I had a big crowd around the car all
day checking it out in all its "nakedness".  Thought I would share my
progress with the group.
Andy


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
 
<http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.b8mr2lmz&x=0&y=96y08r&localeid=
en_US>
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.b8mr2lmz&x=0&y=96y08r&localeid=e
n_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat May 24 09:33:48 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 08:33:48 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Fw: Stromberg plug o-rings
Message-ID: <002501c8bdb3$9105ef20$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Peglow" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 8:32 AM
Subject: Stromberg plug o-rings


> Hello List,
> I have searched and found reference to the o-ring for Stromberg bowl
bottom
> plug to be style/type 2-114, correct?
> One recommendation said use Vitron only, another said Ethylene...  only.
> What's the latest......... and where can I get them please?
> Regards,
> Bob

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Sat May 24 07:59:31 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 08:59:31 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] cartridge oil filter
Message-ID: <7878738.1211637571308.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Hello List,

While changing the oil and ran out of the original style cartridge filter with the small bolt hole on one side and the large hole on the other.  The replacement filter has the same size large hole on both ends.  I don't remember if this makes a difference on the oil pressure or filtration because of the lager opening on one end.  Does anyone know the answer?

Regards,
Greg Perry TR6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat May 24 13:23:02 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 12:23:02 -0700
Subject: [6pack] cartridge oil filter
In-Reply-To: Greg Perry <rgperry@earthlink.net>'s message of Sat, 24 May
	2008 08:59:31 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Message-ID: <8947-48386B16-2099@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>

Greg---The direction of the filter should make no difference. I think
the end with smaller hole helped to align the filter to the opening in
the block. Since you don't have the smaller hole with this filter, just
be sure it's as central as you can get it.

Dick

 From: rgperry at earthlink.net(Greg Perry)

Hello List,
While changing the oil and ran out of the original style cartridge
filter with the small bolt hole on one side and the large hole on the
other. The replacement filter has the same size large hole on both ends.
I don't remember if this makes a difference on the oil pressure or
filtration because of the lager opening on one end. Does anyone know the
answer?
Regards,
Greg

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Sat May 24 15:33:35 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 15:33:35 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] Radio install
Message-ID: <15030547.1211664815440.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>

" Ah have alwaaays depended on the kahndness of strangers..."

Oh, wait, wrong movie......!

Here's the deal-  I want to install a HAM in my TR6.  An Icom V8000, 
aproximately 2" X 6" X 2".  Has anyone ever done it?  WHERE???  There 
is not enough room in my knee box, the passenger knee box and the 
package shelf are both too inaccessible..

I will mount the external speaker on the roll bar (really a street bar, 
more for show than protection), but where do I mount the radidio itself?

Kevin

From greer at greer.org  Sat May 24 23:28:44 2008
From: greer at greer.org (Rusty Greer)
Date: Sat, 24 May 2008 22:28:44 -0700
Subject: [6pack] steering wheel/horn honking
Message-ID: <7d1a195f0805242228v14c50a85l65986dff61e83939@mail.gmail.com>

my steering wheel on my tr250 is loose or something.  it seems that
everytime i slow down, i get enough pressure on the steering wheel to
make the horn go off.  it seems to be getting worse.
1)  any idea how to fix this?
2)  how do i get the steering wheel off in the first place?

thanks,

rusty

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun May 25 05:04:51 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 07:04:51 EDT
Subject: [6pack] steering wheel/horn honking
Message-ID: <cf5.2c6b1dd3.356aa1d3@aol.com>

What I found with my 69, which is very much the same, is that there is a  tab 
to which the horn wire is attached.  This tab is connected to the brass  disc 
on which the brush rides and connects when you push the horn button.   As the 
steering shaft becomes a little bit looser this tab is in such close  
proximity to the column itself that it occasionally grounds and blows the  horn.  
Bend that tab away further and reassemble.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun May 25 10:37:21 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 09:37:21 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Radio install
References: <15030547.1211664815440.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <003901c8be85$9ad6b7f0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hi Kevin,
Mounting it vertically on the transmission tunnel near your right knee might
be a possibility.
You can look down to see the display. Also running the wiring into the
engine compartment will then be simple.
That radio draws 15 amps on transmit (I don't have one, I looked it up),
proper wiring will be important.
Regards,
Bob

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr L. Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 24, 2008 2:33 PM
Subject: [6pack] Radio install


> " Ah have alwaaays depended on the kahndness of strangers..."
>
> Oh, wait, wrong movie......!
>
> Here's the deal-  I want to install a HAM in my TR6.  An Icom V8000,
> aproximately 2" X 6" X 2".  Has anyone ever done it?  WHERE???  There
> is not enough room in my knee box, the passenger knee box and the
> package shelf are both too inaccessible..
>
> I will mount the external speaker on the roll bar (really a street bar,
> more for show than protection), but where do I mount the radidio itself?
>
> Kevin
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun May 25 08:49:35 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 07:49:35 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR 3A fraudster
Message-ID: <703624.31147.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Listers,
&nbsp;
I got the below message from someone I don't know who said they had been defrauded in the purchase of a 1962 TR3A.&nbsp; I know this isn't a 6 cylinder topic but I have a problem with people who steal from others who share our enthuiasm for Triumphs.&nbsp; I know the list will strip the attachments from this message so I will refer you to the person who sent this to me.&nbsp;&nbsp;The car is cream colored with a black interior and&nbsp;cream piping.&nbsp;&nbsp;If you want to see photos&nbsp;or&nbsp;have any information re this matter please contact the sender at shandasmom at cfl.rr.com .&nbsp; I'm sure they would appreciate it if those of you on the TR3 sites would forward this message to your sites.
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 
&nbsp;









We were recently defrauded on the purchase of a 1962 Triumph TR3a, photo is attached. The alleged seller lives in Missouri and we are working with the local Sheriffs Office in tracking him down. I am doing research on my own to see if I can locate the REAL owner of this vehicle. Please contact your members and hopefully make some inquiries for us. It appears (from the photos the scammer sent us) that the VIN might be: EB 72962 
Thank you for your assistance in this matter. 
Mike &amp; Phyllis Mathias

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Sun May 25 12:00:02 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 08:00:02 -1000
Subject: [6pack] All British Car Day - Honolulu
Message-ID: <000901c8be91$28252f00$6401a8c0@PamHome>

Aloha All,

Just a reminder that today is the All British Car Day in Honolulu.  9 - 2:30,
Kapiolani Park.  Hope to see you there ;)

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Sun May 25 12:29:46 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 11:29:46 -0700
Subject: [6pack] All British Car Day - Honolulu
In-Reply-To: <000901c8be91$28252f00$6401a8c0@PamHome>
References: <000901c8be91$28252f00$6401a8c0@PamHome>
Message-ID: <p06240801c45f605713e3@[98.224.22.215]>

Love to come, but I hear the TransOceanic Interstate is  not  yet finished ,,,

Mahalo ...
>Aloha All,
>
>Just a reminder that today is the All British Car Day in Honolulu.  9 - 2:30,
>Kapiolani Park.  Hope to see you there ;)
>
>Mark Bullard
>'74 TR6
>Kailua, HI


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun May 25 13:09:54 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 15:09:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer Cable
Message-ID: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc>

Does anyone know the size of the "nut" is on the speedometer cable at the
speedometer end? And is the tach have the same size?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun May 25 15:00:49 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 25 May 2008 21:00:49 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer Cable
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB7C8AF5@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bob, they are not the same size. The speedo has a half inch fine thread male
connector, the tach has what looks like a 5/8 coarse thread male connector.

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
Sent: Sunday, May 25, 2008 3:10 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack at autox.team.net
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer Cable


Does anyone know the size of the "nut" is on the speedometer cable at the
speedometer end? And is the tach have the same size?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Mon May 26 13:13:35 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 15:13:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>

============================
     We often take our freedoms and way of life so much for granted.  So let 
me take the opportunity to thank all of the men and women in our armed 
forces, their families, and veterans for the dedication and sacrifice made 
on behalf of this great country.  You all deserve much more than what is 
often provided in support of you and your families. But the deepest respect, 
pride and gratitude of the American people will never waver.  Let us 
especially honor those who faced the gravest of dangers and bravely gave 
their lives in service to the people of the United States of America. 
Memorial Day is a solemn day for us to reflect on those sacrifices and say 
"Thank you."
 ============================


Listers,

Without going into the aggravating 'how' and 'why' details I would greatly 
appreciate opinions of fellow enthusiasts about the color of my freshly 
painted tub.  The car is not being built to an original standard but I did 
want a particular color that was representative of the traditional British 
Racing Green.

Best laid plans were "Murphy-ized' and what I now have is an unusual color 
for a 250 that I am heavily biased against because of what the expectation 
was and my years of TR ownership.  I don't hate the color but everyone who 
has seen the car, all non-enthusiasts who have no real basis for comparison, 
thinks I'm crazy for considering repainting it, or at least attempting to 
use a blue tinted clear to soften the green.  It does remind me of the 
lighter racing green used by Lotus in the 50s, 60s and 70s.  All other body 
panels are still in primer.

So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your 
valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm 
on the fence.

Thank you all!

Greg Dito
CD6250L 

From trglory at comcast.net  Mon May 26 14:22:09 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 16:22:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
Message-ID: <01ac01c8bf6e$2dfc0ce0$89f426a0$@net>

Greg;

Looks like the right color to me, very much the color of the '67 TR4A that I
used to have. From your comments, I'm guessing that you never really wanted
BRG in the first place, you wanted Conifer. If it makes you feel any better,
the color will get darker as it ages, mine did.

It's just my opinion, but I think the car will look fabulous when it is
fully outfitted.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Greg
Dito
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 3:14 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!


So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your 
valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm 
on the fence.

Thank you all!

Greg Dito
CD6250L 
_______________________________________________
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1466 - Release Date: 5/25/2008
6:49 PM

From jsnable at mac.com  Mon May 26 14:43:55 2008
From: jsnable at mac.com (Jay Snable)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 13:43:55 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
Message-ID: <470EC50C-32C2-4F26-98D7-B7A9FABC9C17@mac.com>

Greg,

That color appears to be a match to the '68 Triumph Racing Green I  
used to paint my '73. I originally saw it on a TR4A and quite liked  
it. Still like it on my car too! If only I could get my EFI project  
finished...

Jay

On May 26, 2008, at 12:13 PM, Greg Dito wrote:
> ...
>
> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me  
> your
> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right  
> now I'm
> on the fence.
>
> Thank you all!
>
> Greg Dito
> CD6250L
> _______________________________________________

From FSZEK at aol.com  Mon May 26 16:28:06 2008
From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 18:28:06 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
Message-ID: <cd6.2e627b28.356c9376@aol.com>

In a message dated 5/26/08 3:14:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
dito9561 at bellsouth.net writes:

So,  please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your  
valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".    Right now I'm 
on the fence.

Thank you all!

Greg  Dito



Greg,
 
  As an owner of two early TR6's , I lust for your J o.d. mount. 
 Care to share info ?
                                                             Thanks,
                                                                   Frank
                                                                  
cc26xxxx,cc54xxxx



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com  Mon May 26 16:29:49 2008
From: fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com (Jeff Fetner)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 12:29:49 -1000
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
Message-ID: <002601c8bf80$031c3b00$6601a8c0@HP>

Greg,

  The color looks more like the Laurel Green (Triumph code 55) used 69-71. 
It looks great and will really show off the chrome.  Unless you're going for 
max originality points (was that a triple-carb manifold I saw???), leave as 
is and get on the road that much sooner.

Jeff
74 & 74.5 TR6
Hawaii


> Listers,
>
> Without going into the aggravating 'how' and 'why' details I would greatly
> appreciate opinions of fellow enthusiasts about the color of my freshly
> painted tub.  The car is not being built to an original standard but I did
> want a particular color that was representative of the traditional British
> Racing Green.
>
> Best laid plans were "Murphy-ized' and what I now have is an unusual color
> for a 250 that I am heavily biased against because of what the expectation
> was and my years of TR ownership.  I don't hate the color but everyone who
> has seen the car, all non-enthusiasts who have no real basis for 
> comparison,
> thinks I'm crazy for considering repainting it, or at least attempting to
> use a blue tinted clear to soften the green.  It does remind me of the
> lighter racing green used by Lotus in the 50s, 60s and 70s.  All other 
> body
> panels are still in primer.
>
> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your
> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm
> on the fence.
>
> Thank you all!
>
> Greg Dito
> CD6250L 

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Mon May 26 16:52:57 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 18:52:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc>,
	<000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF4BD8DE5B@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

First of all, there is no "true British Racing Green."  There are variations
on a theme.  TR-3s used a darker, more "flat" green (it includes some black
and yellow in the mixing code), MG used one with a more yellow hue, and the
Lotus cars used ones with even more yellow, thus the "lighter" green you
describe.

I repainted my TR-3A with a Jaguar dark metallic green, which Jag used in the
late 50s into the mid-60s.  It is a deep green with gold highlights when the
sun hits it just right. In terms of "greens" it is very close to that used by
Triumph in the 50s and early 60s, but it is metallic versus a flat green.  BMW
offers a very similar green on their Z3's and Z4's now.
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net
[6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Greg Dito [dito9561 at bellsouth.net]
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 3:13 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!

============================
     We often take our freedoms and way of life so much for granted.  So let
me take the opportunity to thank all of the men and women in our armed
forces, their families, and veterans for the dedication and sacrifice made
on behalf of this great country.  You all deserve much more than what is
often provided in support of you and your families. But the deepest respect,
pride and gratitude of the American people will never waver.  Let us
especially honor those who faced the gravest of dangers and bravely gave
their lives in service to the people of the United States of America.
Memorial Day is a solemn day for us to reflect on those sacrifices and say
"Thank you."
 ============================


Listers,

Without going into the aggravating 'how' and 'why' details I would greatly
appreciate opinions of fellow enthusiasts about the color of my freshly
painted tub.  The car is not being built to an original standard but I did
want a particular color that was representative of the traditional British
Racing Green.

Best laid plans were "Murphy-ized' and what I now have is an unusual color
for a 250 that I am heavily biased against because of what the expectation
was and my years of TR ownership.  I don't hate the color but everyone who
has seen the car, all non-enthusiasts who have no real basis for comparison,
thinks I'm crazy for considering repainting it, or at least attempting to
use a blue tinted clear to soften the green.  It does remind me of the
lighter racing green used by Lotus in the 50s, 60s and 70s.  All other body
panels are still in primer.

So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your
valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm
on the fence.

Thank you all!

Greg Dito
CD6250L
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon May 26 16:51:48 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 17:51:48 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc><000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
	<002601c8bf80$031c3b00$6601a8c0@HP>
Message-ID: <005301c8bf85$24de4080$8115a8c0@garage.local>

my opinion - that's a great color.


>
>> Listers,
>>
>> Without going into the aggravating 'how' and 'why' details I would 
>> greatly
>> appreciate opinions of fellow enthusiasts about the color of my freshly
>> painted tub.  The car is not being built to an original standard but I 
>> did
>> want a particular color that was representative of the traditional 
>> British
>> Racing Green.
>>
>> Best laid plans were "Murphy-ized' and what I now have is an unusual 
>> color
>> for a 250 that I am heavily biased against because of what the 
>> expectation
>> was and my years of TR ownership.  I don't hate the color but everyone 
>> who
>> has seen the car, all non-enthusiasts who have no real basis for
>> comparison,
>> thinks I'm crazy for considering repainting it, or at least attempting to
>> use a blue tinted clear to soften the green.  It does remind me of the
>> lighter racing green used by Lotus in the 50s, 60s and 70s.  All other
>> body
>> panels are still in primer.
>>
>> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your
>> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now 
>> I'm
>> on the fence.
>>
>> Thank you all!
>>
>> Greg Dito
>> CD6250L

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon May 26 17:11:18 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 19:11:18 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
In-Reply-To: <cd6.2e627b28.356c9376@aol.com>
References: <cd6.2e627b28.356c9376@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000501c8bf85$d1bb0770$210110ac@bobspc>

Greg,
If you're talking about the color...... I like it.

Is the rear disk brake conversion Don Watson's kit?
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of FSZEK at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 6:28 PM
To: dito9561 at bellsouth.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!

In a message dated 5/26/08 3:14:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dito9561 at bellsouth.net writes:

So,  please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your  
valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".    Right now I'm 
on the fence.

Thank you all!

Greg  Dito



Greg,
 
  As an owner of two early TR6's , I lust for your J o.d. mount. 
 Care to share info ?
                                                             Thanks,
                                                                   Frank
                                                                  
cc26xxxx,cc54xxxx



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.1/1466 - Release Date: 5/25/2008
6:49 PM

From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Mon May 26 18:12:01 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 20:12:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
References: <cd6.2e627b28.356c9376@aol.com>
Message-ID: <006f01c8bf8e$4a14fd90$6101a8c0@phoenix>

Frank,

This is a two-piece design of mine from several years back as I was rebuilding
the chassis and decided to put in a 'J' overdrive in my early chassis.  Of
course, welding in the brackets found on the later TR6 chassis would seem to
be the simpler route.  But at the time the chassis was already powdercoated
and pretty much assembled.  Thinking that the larger non-O/D trans mount
should be more robust, right or wrong,  I worked up a design that would allow
its use.  AS best as I can tell the height of the transmission is increased by
about 1/2 inch over non-O/D stock.  Shorter threaded studs replace the two
vertical ones at the tail end of the 'J' unit.

I thought of making this commercially available but over a couple of years the
unit price went though the roof and I could not commit the large sum of cash
needed for a quantity purchase that would bring the price down to a more
reasonable level.  So outside of my prototype it has otherwise sat in limbo.

Greg
CD6250L


----- Original Message -----
  From: FSZEK at aol.com
  To: dito9561 at bellsouth.net ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 6:28 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!


  In a message dated 5/26/08 3:14:13 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
dito9561 at bellsouth.net writes:
    So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your
    valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm
    on the fence.

    Thank you all!

    Greg Dito

  Greg,
    As an owner of two early TR6's , I lust for your J o.d. mount.
   Care to share info ?
                                                              Thanks,
                                                                    Frank
                                                                    cc26xxxx,
cc54xxxx





-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
  Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler Florence"
on AOL Food.

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Mon May 26 21:19:47 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 20:19:47 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
References: <000501c8be9a$ec1f62a0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<000b01c8bf64$99786c20$6101a8c0@phoenix>
Message-ID: <0b6701c8bfa8$8452a9c0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

That color green looks great, but if it's really not what you
want........................
I could not find color chart for TR250, but there are 5 different greens for
TR6s.
Code 75 (TR6 years '75 and '76) is called British Racing Green. Rimmer Bros
carries the touchup as RX4030.
http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php
Regards,
Bob





> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your
> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm
> on the fence.
>
> Thank you all!
>
> Greg Dito
> CD6250L

From janah at att.net  Mon May 26 19:54:08 2008
From: janah at att.net (janah at att.net)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 01:54:08 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
Message-ID: <052720080154.3515.483B69C00003B4B900000DBB22230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>

I think the shade of green is nice. Yeah it is not connifer.

I think you should forget about what other people say (except Swmbo of course!)

It should be about what you want.  After all you are going to live with this for years if you don't change it now.  You need to be happy with it. If you think it will spoil your enjoyment of the car then change it.  If you think you could get to like it, the I think I would say do not go to the trouble.

John Cyg.

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Mon May 26 20:41:46 2008
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 22:41:46 EDT
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 226
Message-ID: <cf3.33056369.356cceea@aol.com>

I like the color, but, my '6 is emerald green.  I don't find it  offensive in 
the least.  Someone with more knowledge of what was "original"  than me will 
need to chime in here.
 
Sam and Carol Clark 
Green Country Triumphs 
TS45355L  O
CC82030U O
Cell: 918-625-6798  

 
In a message dated 5/26/2008 7:23:52 P.M. Central Daylight Time,  
6pack-request at autox.team.net writes:

Listers,

Without going into the aggravating 'how' and 'why'  details I would greatly 
appreciate opinions of fellow enthusiasts about  the color of my freshly 
painted tub.  The car is not being built to  an original standard but I did 
want a particular color that was  representative of the traditional British 
Racing Green.

Best laid  plans were "Murphy-ized' and what I now have is an unusual color 
for a 250  that I am heavily biased against because of what the expectation 
was and  my years of TR ownership.  I don't hate the color but everyone who  
has seen the car, all non-enthusiasts who have no real basis for  comparison, 
thinks I'm crazy for considering repainting it, or at least  attempting to 
use a blue tinted clear to soften the green.  It does  remind me of the 
lighter racing green used by Lotus in the 50s, 60s and  70s.  All other body 
panels are still in primer.

So, please  take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your 
valued  opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm  
on the fence.

Thank you all!

Greg Dito
CD6250L  






**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From cthompson at dbitechnology.com  Mon May 26 20:46:55 2008
From: cthompson at dbitechnology.com (Chris Thompson)
Date: Mon, 26 May 2008 22:46:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 226
In-Reply-To: <cf3.33056369.356cceea@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BJEOLJNEHLFLDCNIJDEOMEFACBAA.cthompson@dbitechnology.com>

I too drive an Emerald Green TR6...I love the color.


Chris Thompson

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+cthompson=dbitechnology.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+cthompson=dbitechnology.com at autox.team.net]On
Behalf Of TRDOCTOR at aol.com
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 10:42 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; dito9561 at bellsouth.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 226


I like the color, but, my '6 is emerald green.  I don't find it  offensive
in
the least.  Someone with more knowledge of what was "original"  than me will
need to chime in here.

Sam and Carol Clark
Green Country Triumphs
TS45355L  O
CC82030U O
Cell: 918-625-6798


In a message dated 5/26/2008 7:23:52 P.M. Central Daylight Time,
6pack-request at autox.team.net writes:

Listers,

Without going into the aggravating 'how' and 'why'  details I would greatly
appreciate opinions of fellow enthusiasts about  the color of my freshly
painted tub.  The car is not being built to  an original standard but I did
want a particular color that was  representative of the traditional British
Racing Green.

Best laid  plans were "Murphy-ized' and what I now have is an unusual color
for a 250  that I am heavily biased against because of what the expectation
was and  my years of TR ownership.  I don't hate the color but everyone who
has seen the car, all non-enthusiasts who have no real basis for
comparison,
thinks I'm crazy for considering repainting it, or at least  attempting to
use a blue tinted clear to soften the green.  It does  remind me of the
lighter racing green used by Lotus in the 50s, 60s and  70s.  All other body
panels are still in primer.

So, please  take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me your
valued  opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now I'm
on the fence.

Thank you all!

Greg Dito
CD6250L






**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as cthompson at dbitechnology.com

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon May 26 21:15:51 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 03:15:51 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
In-Reply-To: <052720080154.3515.483B69C00003B4B900000DBB22230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
References: <052720080154.3515.483B69C00003B4B900000DBB22230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB81D49D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I'm with John. That is a great color, it suits the 250 body and when the car
is fitted out it will look awesome. However if you will spend the next umpteen
years wishing it was a different shade of green, now is the time to change
it.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
janah at att.net
Sent: Monday, May 26, 2008 9:54 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!

I think the shade of green is nice. Yeah it is not connifer.

I think you should forget about what other people say (except Swmbo of
course!)

It should be about what you want.  After all you are going to live with this
for years if you don't change it now.  You need to be happy with it. If you
think it will spoil your enjoyment of the car then change it.  If you think
you could get to like it, the I think I would say do not go to the trouble.

John Cyg.

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Tue May 27 09:34:23 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 09:34:23 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
Message-ID: <14992453.1211902463697.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>

Greg Dito wrote:


> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me 
your 
> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now 
I'm 
> on the fence.



Greg, I post this before reading everyone else's answer:  GHASTLY.  
Looks like the same color as an Army truck, GI green.  At least paint a 
white star in the center of the bonnet!

Kevin
KE5UJF

From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Tue May 27 10:23:09 2008
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 09:23:09 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
References: <14992453.1211902463697.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <001101c8c015$f46539e0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>

Who's army?  Not ours...


Gary
'73

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr L. Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!


> Greg Dito wrote:
> 
> 
>> So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me 
> your 
>> valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool".   Right now 
> I'm 
>> on the fence.
> 
> 
> 
> Greg, I post this before reading everyone else's answer:  GHASTLY.  
> Looks like the same color as an Army truck, GI green.  At least paint a 
> white star in the center of the bonnet!
> 
> Kevin
> KE5UJF

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Tue May 27 12:24:00 2008
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 14:24:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] color
Message-ID: <565B5DAEF205474BAC8AF818B6955D12@randyPC>

hi greg,
it is your car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
do YOU like the color? that is all that is all that matters.
my 74 tr6 is ka-ka brown. not originally what i wanted in terms of color, 
but i like it more every day.
randy sandner
74.5 tr6
hickory nc 

From massitti at telus.net  Tue May 27 13:05:26 2008
From: massitti at telus.net (massitti at telus.net)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 13:05:26 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
Message-ID: <27129047.560841211915126016.JavaMail.nitido@priv-edtnes94>

   Gerg

   B

   IMHO, IB think the color is great!

   B

   Orest

   http://www.triumphowners.com/866< /p>

From nosto53 at yahoo.com  Tue May 27 13:38:28 2008
From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 12:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - PSI remember?
Message-ID: <782753.59109.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi! 
I converter my mech. pump to a electric pump with 
Facet pump, Holley regulator, all the parts for DanMasters 
Handbook(page 167) and the blanking (Thank, Frank!). 
   
  How to put the regulator on so I am running a 1.5 - 2.0 psi?
   
  My regulator (Holley) has 3 outs - 2 are for carbs(?) and on from the the tank.
  Do I need one hose on a vacuum to I can see the psi?
   
  Thanks!
  RickO
  '72 TR6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue May 27 14:00:57 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 13:00:57 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump - PSI remember?
In-Reply-To: richard olson <nosto53@yahoo.com>'s message of Tue, 27 May
	2008 12:38:28 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <28352-483C6879-3751@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>

Rick---The pressure regulator must be placed in-line after the pump, and
before the carbs. If your regulator doesn't have psi numbers on it, then
it would be best to put a pressure gauge between the regulator and the
fuel line that goes to your carbs. There has to be a way to adjust the
pressure up or down from what the gauge shows.

The second outlet port could be one that returns fuel back to the tank.
This would have to be plugged, of course. There should be "arrows"
showing the way fuel enters and exits the pump.
Two pounds pressure would be good.

Dick

 From: nosto53 at yahoo.com(richard olson)

Hi!
I converter my mech. pump to a electric pump with Facet pump, Holley
regulator, all the parts for DanMasters Handbook(page 167) and the
blanking (Thank, Frank!).
    How to put the regulator on so I am running a 1.5 - 2.0 psi?
    My regulator (Holley) has 3 outs - 2 are for carbs(?) and on
from the the tank. Do I need one hose on a vacuum to I can see the psi?
    Thanks!
  RickO
  '72 TR6
______________________________________

From fishplate at charter.net  Tue May 27 18:44:30 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 20:44:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 226
In-Reply-To: <cf3.33056369.356cceea@aol.com>
References: <cf3.33056369.356cceea@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080528004425.QFOQ4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 10:41 PM 5/26/2008, TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:
>I like the color, but, my '6 is emerald green.  I don't find it  offensive in
>the least.
>
>Sam and Carol Clark
>Green Country Triumphs

Of course you like it...  ~All~ the Triumphs are green in your country...

From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Tue May 27 21:24:41 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 23:24:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] A thank you. (Need your opinions, please!)
Message-ID: <010201c8c072$5f0d96f0$6101a8c0@phoenix>

WOW!  What can I say?!  Thanks to everyone who responded so far with their 
take on my 250's paint color.  The overwhelming consensus is the color fits 
the character of the car fine.  I was taken back by some of the more 
enthusiastic 'thumbs up' replies.  Obviously many of you saw something that 
I could not on first impression.

And that's why I had to ask - because I was concerned that my bias was 
blinding me to the possibility that there may be something good here.  You 
ever have that moment when you see a car or a house a certain color and 
think, "Looks nice.  Just wouldn't want that color on mine, though."  Well, 
that's what I'm in the midst of.  All of the sudden, BAM!  And the 
realization, "Wait a minute!  That IS my car!!!"

A few of the 'thumbs down' messages had more to do with compromising my 
original desire for a darker British Racing Green.  Very true.  I appreciate 
the kind and wise words expressed by many about personal choices and staying 
true to one's dreams.

So, I'm not in such a state of panic as before.  And I'm still mulling over 
the possible paths to take.  But your opinions have made a huge difference 
in how I'm approaching this situation.  If anyone has not given me their 2 
cents yet please do so if you wish.

Thanks again!
Greg

From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Tue May 27 23:08:00 2008
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 22:08:00 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
References: <28351-483C5F53-8593@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <000d01c8c080$cd7ac0a0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>

Dick,

I'm sorry, I wasn't very clear with my comment.  I meant to say that I don't 
think the green paint on the car in question is of a shade that looks at all 
like U.S. Army green.


Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: "Gary Fluke" <gary.fluke at verizon.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 12:21 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!


Gary---I recall the White Star on some of our armed forces vehcles
during WW11. Wings of planes, hoods of the half-tracks, etc. Don't know
about lately...

Dick

E-mail message

Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From:
gary.fluke at verizon.net(Gary Fluke) Date: Tue, May 27, 2008, 9:23am To:
6pack at autox.team.net (Six Pack) Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions,
please!
Who's army? Not ours...
Gary
'73

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr L. Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, May 27, 2008 8:34 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
Greg Dito wrote:
So, please take a look http://www.triumphowners.com/231 and give me
your
valued opinions, be it "absolutely ghastly" or "too cool". Right now
I'm
on the fence.
Greg, I post this before reading everyone else's answer: GHASTLY. Looks
like the same color as an Army truck, GI green. At least paint a white
star in the center of the bonnet!
Kevin
KE5UJF
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
http://www.team.net/archive
You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Wed May 28 05:54:08 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 04:54:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: [Healeys] Peter Kumar of Long Island
Message-ID: <760421.8727.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

he owns gullwing motors in long island city he sells alot of cars
--- On Wed, 5/28/08, MGTD51 &lt;mgtd51 at comcast.net&gt; wrote:
From: MGTD51 &lt;mgtd51 at comcast.net&gt;
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Peter Kumar of Long Island
To: Editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date: Wednesday, May 28, 2008, 7:41 AM

I received one as well.

Larry Swift

ditorgary at aol.com wrote:
&gt; In a message dated 5/27/08 10:34:33 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
&gt; writes:
&gt;
&gt;
&gt;   
&gt;&gt; Has anyone else on the list who is a member of AHCUSA received a
letter
&gt;&gt;     
&gt; from
&gt;   
&gt;&gt; Peter Kumar of Long island city (sic) indicating an interest in their
&gt;&gt;     
&gt; Austin
&gt;   
&gt;&gt; Healey (sic)?  He is listed in the alphabetical section of the AHCUSA
&gt;&gt; resource
&gt;&gt; book but not in the geographical (New York) section.  Just curious to
see
&gt;&gt;     
&gt; if
&gt;   
&gt;&gt; he is using the membership list as a source document for solicitatio
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt;     
&gt; I got one as well; just trashed it. Clearly a person with bad ideas, lots
of
&gt; time on his hands, and no technological savvy. Time consuming scam...
&gt; Cheers
&gt; Gary
&gt;
&gt;
&gt;
&gt; **************
&gt; Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
&gt; Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
&gt;       (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;amp;
&gt; ?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
&gt; _______________________________________________
&gt; Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
&gt;
&gt; Healeys at autox.team.net
&gt; http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
&gt;
&gt; You are subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
&gt;
&gt; http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You are subscribed as rccpl1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Wed May 28 06:56:16 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 12:56:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Need your opinions, please!
Message-ID: <BLU118-W76A98938D0ADF83E1ECA98EBC0@phx.gbl>

I heard this story a few years ago. Before a race early in his career, Richard
Petty didn't have enough paint to paint his car. They had about half a gallon
of blue and half a gallon of white. His father Lee suggested just mixing the
two together, and the famous "Petty Blue" was born.

The point: I bet you'll love that car when you get it all put back together
and you'll enjoy talking about the color at every car show you attend. My 69
was originally the same color code as yours, but it's been white my entire
ownership. I think we all romanticize about those green shades with 'racing'
in the name. But in the end they're just different shades of green.

Sloane :)69-Six> Date: Tue, 27 May 2008 13:05:26 -0600> From:
massitti at telus.net> To: 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Need your
opinions, please!>
_________________________________________________________________
Make every e-mail and IM count. Join the im Initiative from Microsoft.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Join/Default.aspx?source=EML_WL_ MakeCount

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed May 28 07:12:27 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 06:12:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5-speed seal failure?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.13836.1211933662.1200.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <372084.21926.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I know that new engineered ideas evolve, things are discovered, improvements are made, etc.,&nbsp;but this is one reason (of a few) that I now regret installing a&nbsp;Toyota 5-speed in my TR6 last year.&nbsp;&nbsp;Yes, regret.&nbsp; If I had to do it all over again, I'd go with the OD instead.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;
If you are considering the conversion you might want to re-think it.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;
Joe Merone
CF18928
&nbsp;
&nbsp;
&nbsp;
As Bob Danielson has already answered, it is likely that the tranny flange moved too far forward and ate the rear seal. The locking collar prevents the driveshaft from collapsing, but it does NOT prevent the driveshaft from extending further than it should, which would cause the flange to be below the minimum distance from the seal. Bob told me about this, as I am in the process of doing this. After I read his report and email, I found that I could pull the end of the driveshaft out of the splines. After seeing this, it is off to the driveshaft shop for me to have one made without sliding splines. You only want 1 slip joint in the assembly, and you have 2.
THANKS, Bob.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From MGruber921 at aol.com  Wed May 28 07:27:37 2008
From: MGruber921 at aol.com (MGruber921 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 09:27:37 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: [Healeys] Peter Kumar of Long Island
Message-ID: <caa.2c454eed.356eb7c9@aol.com>

Got one also, I did price mine but don't think he will pay the price. 
 
Marv
 
 
In a message dated 5/28/2008 6:54:24 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
rccpl1 at yahoo.com writes:

he owns  gullwing motors in long island city he sells alot of cars
--- On Wed,  5/28/08, MGTD51 &lt;mgtd51 at comcast.net&gt; wrote:
From: MGTD51  &lt;mgtd51 at comcast.net&gt;
Subject: Re: [Healeys] Peter Kumar of  Long Island
To: Editorgary at aol.com
Cc: healeys at autox.team.net
Date:  Wednesday, May 28, 2008, 7:41 AM

I received one as well.

Larry  Swift

ditorgary at aol.com wrote:
&gt; In a message dated 5/27/08  10:34:33 PM, healeys-request at autox.team.net
&gt;  writes:
&gt;
&gt;
&gt;   
&gt;&gt;  Has anyone else on the list who is a member of AHCUSA received  a
letter
&gt;&gt;     
&gt;  from
&gt;   
&gt;&gt; Peter Kumar of Long island  city (sic) indicating an interest in 
their
&gt;&gt;   
&gt; Austin
&gt;   
&gt;&gt;  Healey (sic)?  He is listed in the alphabetical section of the  
AHCUSA
&gt;&gt; resource
&gt;&gt; book but not in the  geographical (New York) section.  Just curious  
to
see
&gt;&gt;     
&gt;  if
&gt;   
&gt;&gt; he is using the membership  list as a source document for  
solicitatio
&gt;&gt;
&gt;&gt;      
&gt; I got one as well; just trashed it. Clearly a person with bad  ideas, 
lots
of
&gt; time on his hands, and no technological savvy.  Time consuming scam...
&gt; Cheers
&gt;  Gary
&gt;
&gt;
&gt;
&gt;  **************
&gt; Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch  "Cooking with
&gt; Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
&gt;    (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&amp;amp;
&gt;  ?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
&gt;  _______________________________________________
&gt; Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
&gt;
&gt;  Healeys at autox.team.net
&gt;  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
&gt;
&gt; You are  subscribed as mgtd51 at comcast.net
&gt;
&gt;  http://www.team.net/archive
Healeys at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys

You  are subscribed as  rccpl1 at yahoo.com

http://www.team.net/archive
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  mgruber921 at aol.com





**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Wed May 28 10:01:33 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 16:01:33 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re: [Healeys] Peter Kumar of Long Island
Message-ID: <2007888434-1211990493-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-413835222-@bxe118.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I'm late to this thread, but live near his warehouse and I've visited there a few times. Always interesting inventory, but the vehicles usually require significant and substantial investments to make road worthy, let alone achieve any ROI. Many cars are lost barn finds and show it.  My best advice is to physically inspect any car prior to purchase to avoid any headaches. 
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Wed May 28 10:45:48 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 09:45:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Your opinions please
Message-ID: <54095.13395.qm@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greg:
&nbsp;
I'm glad that you've gotten as&nbsp;much good feedback&nbsp;as you have and you're feeling&nbsp;a little better with the color you've got.&nbsp; On the other hand (and there always IS another hand)...
&nbsp;
If you are really not overly enthusiastic and happy with what you've got, and are hoping to "grow to like it," or have other people's positive&nbsp;comments sway you into thinking you like it - STOP.&nbsp;&nbsp;Stop now and repaint it - especially if this is a car that you plan to keep around and enjoy for a long time.&nbsp;&nbsp;A repaint will&nbsp;hurt, it'll cost, it'll suck.&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;But if you don't do it, you'll be second guessing your decision every time you look at your TR6 and the satisfaction in owning the car will be diminished just a little -&nbsp;which is never the point.
&nbsp;
Please accept the above comments as just one lowly opinion.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;
Joe Merone
CF18928&nbsp;&nbsp;

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Wed May 28 11:40:01 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 10:40:01 -0700
Subject: [6pack] A thank you. (Need your opinions, please!)
In-Reply-To: <010201c8c072$5f0d96f0$6101a8c0@phoenix>
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F28101DBF2@main.RSC.local>

Greg,

I think you will find that it comes together nicely when the trim is
added. Remember, green is not everyone's favorite when it comes to car
colors.  Every new car I buy I want in dark green but either its not
available or my wife wants something else.  Finally, I bought a BMW 325
in dark green, but I can't say that I have ever seen another in that
color.

Bob Clark
'69 TR6

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed May 28 14:08:59 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 16:08:59 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Emissions Test
Message-ID: <000901c8c0fe$aca74a50$210110ac@bobspc>

One of the things I've been curious about since converting to TBI was how it
impacted my emissions. Back when I first got the car in 1997 I had to take
it through Connecticut emissions just once and it passed with all the smog
equipment still on the car. That test made it road worthy for enough years
to have the age exemptions kick in and it no longer needed to get tested.
Since then most of the smog equipment has failed and been removed from the
car. So the other day I stopped at an emissions test station and asked if
they would test the car. A simple enough task......or so you would think.
You can read about the process here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EmissionsTest.htm along with the results.

Bottom line they ended up testing it against 1984 standards and I passed 2
of the 3, only failing the CO test. I found the '75 standards but they're
all in grams/mile while the new tests are in parts/million. So we're really
comparing apples to oranges. Luckily I'm exempt but if I wasn't, we probably
could have a new chip programmed and flashed to get the car through.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Wed May 28 15:20:32 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 14:20:32 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5-speed seal failure?
In-Reply-To: <372084.21926.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <372084.21926.qm@web30907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <p06240801c463499b3ca8@[98.224.22.215]>

If  you will read the  installation instructions from Herman you will  find ...

1. Extend the driveshaft to its maximum extension.
2. Install  the locking collar over the extension, right next to the 
driveshaft, so that it CANNOT RETRACT !!

8. If the driveshaft  dimension is longer than the distance from the 
distance from the transmission flange to the differential flange.  It 
MUST  BE SHORTENED by that amount.

So ... when in doubt   RTFIs ... <:-|

And Joe, is right  the very best way is to have a custom drive shaft. 
I got one  from Driveline Stockton,  complete with Spicer U-Joints , 
for $150.00


>I know that new engineered ideas evolve, things are discovered, 
>improvements are made, etc.,&nbsp;but this is one reason (of a few) 
>that I now regret installing a&nbsp;Toyota 5-speed in my TR6 last 
>year.&nbsp;&nbsp;Yes, regret.&nbsp; If I had to do it all over 
>again, I'd go with the OD instead.&nbsp;
>&nbsp;
>If you are considering the conversion you might want to re-think it.&nbsp;
>&nbsp;
>Joe Merone
>CF18928
>&nbsp;
>&nbsp;
>&nbsp;
>As Bob Danielson has already answered, it is likely that the tranny 
>flange moved too far forward and ate the rear seal. The locking 
>collar prevents the driveshaft from collapsing, but it does NOT 
>prevent the driveshaft from extending further than it should, which 
>would cause the flange to be below the minimum distance from the 
>seal. Bob told me about this, as I am in the process of doing this. 
>After I read his report and email, I found that I could pull the end 
>of the driveshaft out of the splines. After seeing this, it is off 
>to the driveshaft shop for me to have one made without sliding 
>splines. You only want 1 slip joint in the assembly, and you have 2.
>THANKS, Bob.
>Irv Korey
>74 TR6 CF22767U
>Highland Park, IL


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed May 28 17:19:55 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 16:19:55 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5-speed seal failure?
In-Reply-To: Joe Merone <jmerone@rocketmail.com>'s message of Wed, 28
	May 2008 06:12:27 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <9718-483DE89B-181@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>

Joe, and interested parties---I could go on about this topic, as I have
the 5 speed conversion. When installing the seal in question, I made
sure that it did not "stick out" of the tranny case. (There's room to
set it deeper) There's no way then, that the revolving flange could make
contact with the face of the seal..

My driveshaft is extended as far is it will go (without disassembly) and
locked to the outer limit. Same as Bill, and others have done. There's
about 5/8 inch gap between the flange and drive case. This could be
different for other model TRs.

Anytime we modify our cars, we should expect that some issues will
arise, and the answer will not be found in the Bentley manual. As a
group, tho, I think we can handle most of these!

Dick
'73 TR6
(Herman VDA is vacationing in New Zealand, the last I heard)

From: jmerone at rocketmail.com(Joe Merone)

I know that new engineered ideas evolve, things are discovered,
improvements are made, etc.,&nbsp;but this is one reason (of a few) that
I now regret installing a&nbsp;Toyota 5-speed in my TR6 last
year.&nbsp;&nbsp;Yes, regret.&nbsp; If I had to do it all over again,
I'd go with the OD instead.&nbsp; &nbsp;

If you are considering the conversion you might want to re-think
it.&nbsp; &nbsp;
Joe Merone
CF18928

As Bob Danielson has already answered, it is likely that the tranny
flange moved too far forward and ate the rear seal. The locking collar
prevents the driveshaft from collapsing, but it does NOT prevent the
driveshaft from extending further than it should, which would cause the
flange to be below the minimum distance from the seal. Bob told me about
this, as I am in the process of doing this. After I read his report and
email, I found that I could pull the end of the driveshaft out of the
splines. After seeing this, it is off to the driveshaft shop for me to
have one made without sliding splines. You only want 1 slip joint in the
assembly, and you have 2. THANKS, Bob.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL
______________________________________________

From dramsey11 at alltel.net  Wed May 28 19:50:30 2008
From: dramsey11 at alltel.net (Darrell Ramsey)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 21:50:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Emissions Test
In-Reply-To: <000901c8c0fe$aca74a50$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20080529015027.QNYF1714.ispmxaamta04-gx.windstream.net@VALUEDFD36E9B8>

Bob - From your web page I see you measured 116 ppm HC and 1.3% CO.  Those
are good numbers that indicate a good running engine.  I used to live in
Maricopa Co, AZ and was subject to yearly emissions testing on my stock 71
TR6.  My last test report was June 2003 and measured 98 ppm HC and .98% CO.
The test included idle and road speeds as the car was on rollers.  

This was a stock, original engine with 75K on it. I used a Gunson exhaust
gas analyzer to get the carbs set as close to optimum as I could.  So for
those wondering, the original Z-S set up can run pretty clean also.

Darrell

>One of the things I've been curious about since converting to TBI was how
it
>impacted my emissions. 

From shannm2 at triad.rr.com  Wed May 28 22:58:43 2008
From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 00:58:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Choke cable for SU carbs
References: <20080529015027.QNYF1714.ispmxaamta04-gx.windstream.net@VALUEDFD36E9B8>
Message-ID: <001101c8c148$ab61d260$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net>

List,

Does anyone have a solution (other than running the choke on only one carb) 
for running a choke cable to both carbs of a TR6 SU conversion?

The OEM cables will only fit one.

Thanks in advance!!

-shannon
72 TR6 

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Wed May 28 23:32:11 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Wed, 28 May 2008 22:32:11 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Anything Triumph Related Going on in SE Wisconsin Next 10
	days?
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0805282232i43e3621ei5564c8616a4bdf0b@mail.gmail.com>

I'll be in SE Wisconsin for the next 10 days, anything Triumph related going
on for me to attend?

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Thu May 29 05:28:31 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 04:28:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] toyota calipers
Message-ID: <581364.48336.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

does anyone know what model # is for the toyota conversion

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu May 29 06:32:14 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 08:32:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] toyota calipers
In-Reply-To: <581364.48336.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <581364.48336.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <002201c8c188$0888df80$210110ac@bobspc>

There's a really good write up here
http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_install.htm but they just reference it
as "front calipers from a Toyota 1979-83 four wheel drive pickup
(non-diesel)"


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of john doe
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 7:29 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] toyota calipers

does anyone know what model # is for the toyota conversion
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.2/1471 - Release Date: 5/28/2008
5:33 PM

From tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org  Thu May 29 07:04:01 2008
From: tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org (Terry Geiger)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 08:04:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Choke cable for SU carbs
In-Reply-To: <001101c8c148$ab61d260$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net>
References: <20080529015027.QNYF1714.ispmxaamta04-gx.windstream.net@VALUEDFD36E9B8>
	<001101c8c148$ab61d260$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net>
Message-ID: <2B23AE3851AB4FE9B40E3755FED336E5@aitinc.local>

Shannon,

I have Ex-Volvo HS6 SU carbs on my TR6.  My solution was to use a TR4 style 
choke linkages.  The chokes are tied together using the TR4 style linkage 
(provided by Joe Curto) and a single choke cable is used on one carb.  Since 
the chokes are tied together, if you choke one carb you wind up choking both 
carbs.  It works very well and engages/disengages cleanly. The choke cable 
was sourced from an MGB (gasp).  I like the T handle design of the MGB choke 
cable as it makes it easy to find in the dark.  I know I shouldn't be 
driving a Lucas equipped vehicle after dark but I guess I'm the adventurous 
type :^)

I'll take some pictures and put them up on the web site tonight.  Just go to 
the "Geiger's Garage" section of the shoalsbritishcars.org web site (see 
link below) and you'll see them there.

Terry Geiger
59 MGA Roadster~59 MGA Coupe~74 Triumph TR6~70 MGBGT~63 Triumph Herald~84 
Mercedes 300D
www.ShoalsBritishCars.org

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Shannon Muncy" <shannm2 at triad.rr.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 28, 2008 11:58 PM
Subject: [6pack] Choke cable for SU carbs


> List,
>
> Does anyone have a solution (other than running the choke on only one 
> carb)
> for running a choke cable to both carbs of a TR6 SU conversion?
>
> The OEM cables will only fit one.
>
> Thanks in advance!!
>
> -shannon
> 72 TR6

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Thu May 29 08:02:34 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 07:02:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5-speed seal failure?
Message-ID: <143433.53537.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hey Bill:

Look at my message again.  No where in it do I say that I am actuallly having a problem with my seal.  And in fact I'm not.  I was referencing the discovery of a new potential problem, one of a few changes (solid driveshafts anyone?) that have contributed to my personal frustration and experience with the system.  That's all.

So... when in doubt    RTFe-mail!

Joe Merone
CF18928 5-speed


--- On Wed, 5/28/08, Bill & AnnaBelle <anabil007 at comcast.net> wrote:
 
If  you will read the  installation instructions from Herman you will  find ...

1. Extend the driveshaft to its maximum extension.
2. Install  the locking collar over the extension, right next to the 
driveshaft, so that it CANNOT RETRACT !!

8. If the driveshaft  dimension is longer than the distance from the 
distance from the transmission flange to the differential flange.  It 
MUST  BE SHORTENED by that amount.

So ... when in doubt   RTFIs ... <:-|

 

>I know that new engineered ideas evolve, things are discovered, 
>improvements are made, etc. but this is one reason (of a few) 
>that I now regret installing the Toyota 5-speed in my TR6 last 
>year.  Yes, regret. If I had to do it all over 
>again, I'd go with the OD instead 
>If you are considering the conversion you might want to re-think
it 
>Joe Merone
>CF18928
 


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From Btp44 at aol.com  Thu May 29 09:47:34 2008
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 11:47:34 EDT
Subject: [6pack] choke cables for SU carbs
Message-ID: <c8d.23100278.35702a16@aol.com>

Shannon-Another way to go is to order the longer choke cables for the PI cars 
from TRF ($50) or if you are cheap and retired (like me) disassemble your 
present cable, remove the shorter one, and silver soldier a bike cable cut to the 
desired length (About $2). Let  me know if you want more info. 
Berry Price



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4&?NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Thu May 29 10:55:32 2008
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 09:55:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Stag lug nuts
Message-ID: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Y'all,

Does anyone have any spares or can  tell me where I can get replacement lug
nuts for a Stag with alloy wheels?  I'm in need of 4 to get my wife's car back
up and running - found out the DPO had stripped several of them out while I was
mounting new tires.  

Driving season is apon us, and she want's to get out and enjoy it!

Thanks in advance,


Raymond L. Hatfield
'65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance"
'73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" 
Little Rock, AR

Come visit the Michelotti TR Website:
http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr

From emanteno at comcast.net  Thu May 29 11:44:50 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 17:44:50 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Anything Triumph Related Going on in SE Wisconsin
 Next 10 days?
Message-ID: <052920081744.17442.483EEB920000A131000044222205884484970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Marty Clark" <marty.tr6 at gmail.com> 

> I'll be in SE Wisconsin for the next 10 days, anything Triumph related going 
> on for me to attend? 

Not SE Wisconsin, but in NE Illinois, the Illinois Sports Owners Association is having our monthly meeting this Sunday in Elmhurst, IL.
http://www.snic-braaapp.org/

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu May 29 12:21:07 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 29 May 2008 11:21:07 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Stag lug nuts
In-Reply-To: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03DE5ED9@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Raymond:

	Rimmer Brothers is manufacturing replicas. www.rimmerbros.co.uk
Approximately $5 ea plus shipping from the UK.

	Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Raymond Hatfield
Sent: Thursday, May 29, 2008 9:56 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Stag lug nuts

Hi Y'all,

Does anyone have any spares or can  tell me where I can get replacement
lug
nuts for a Stag with alloy wheels?  I'm in need of 4 to get my wife's
car back
up and running - found out the DPO had stripped several of them out
while I was
mounting new tires.

Driving season is apon us, and she want's to get out and enjoy it!

Thanks in advance,


Raymond L. Hatfield

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri May 30 11:38:56 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 17:38:56 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Dizzy pedestal end float
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EB8991D0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I'm in the process of putting my newly rebuilt engine back together. The motor
has a new oil pump and cam and my project for this morning was to re-install
the distributor drive pedestal with the correct .005 end float. Following the
procedure in Bentley I come up with needing 40 thou of shims to provide the 5
thou end float between the bottom of the pedestal and the top of the drive
dog.

On checking with Bob Lang who has been guiding me through this project (thank
you Bob) he says 40 thou of shims seems like a lot and he has never used more
than one or two. I think the dog is engaged in the oil pump correctly so
before I start pulling this apart I thought I would ping this list to see if
40 thou really is abnormal. Since I started off with 35 thou of pre-load I was
able to measure between the pedestal and the block and I can also get a feeler
gauge between the bottom of the pedestal and the top of the dog once the
pedestal has been bolted down with the shims so I believe I have corroborated
the 40 thou three different ways.

Stan

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri May 30 12:51:25 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 11:51:25 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Dizzy pedestal end float
In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster@hp.com>'s message of Fri, 30
	May 2008 17:38:56 +0000
Message-ID: <3608-48404CAD-801@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net>

Stan---Ye, .040 would be a lot of shims. Here's another way to see if
this is what you need:

First, DO make sure that the dist. drive gear's slot has dropped into
the oil pump dog. If it hasn't, this could raise the drive gear up to
that .040 that it looks like you need to add. This is sometimes tricky
to get the two together!

If you're satisfied that the pump is mated to the drive gear, then go
ahead and add a stack of shims (or feeler gauge blades at the corners)
under the pedestal flange. Lightly bolt it down.
Reach down thru the pedestal bore with a finger, or a piece of 1/2 inch
hose,, and try to lift up the drive gear. If you can feel it try to
spiral up, then there are too many shims. Start removing shims until you
can barely feel movement. This is where you want it.

I think the .005 of clearance is safe. What we want it to be sure that
the gears are not jammed together. Also, we don't want so much clearance
that the gear is able to climb, when being driven by the cam gear..

To see how much purchase the (pinned) gear at the bottom of the
distributor shaft sets into the slot in the distributor drive gear,
paint the "key" with Dykem Blue, or even a felt marker. Over the miles,
it will wear off where contact is being made.

Dick

 From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan)

I'm in the process of putting my newly rebuilt engine back together. The
motor has a new oil pump and cam and my project for this morning was to
re-install the distributor drive pedestal with the correct .005 end
float. Following the procedure in Bentley I come up with needing 40 thou
of shims to provide the 5 thou end float between the bottom of the
pedestal and the top of the drive dog.
On checking with Bob Lang who has been guiding me through this project
(thank you Bob) he says 40 thou of shims seems like a lot and he has
never used more than one or two. I think the dog is engaged in the oil
pump correctly so before I start pulling this apart I thought I would
ping this list to see if 40 thou really is abnormal. Since I started off
with 35 thou of pre-load I was able to measure between the pedestal and
the block and I can also get a feeler gauge between the bottom of the
pedestal and the top of the dog once the pedestal has been bolted down
with the shims so I believe I have corroborated the 40 thou three
different ways.
Stan
______________________________________________

From George_Loriot at Brown.edu  Fri May 30 12:54:25 2008
From: George_Loriot at Brown.edu (Loriot, George)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 14:54:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] the sad end of my triumph
Message-ID: <1EF6E5ECC183EA4CB3A2EE41E1F2D20802E9A1E3@MAIL3.AD.Brown.Edu>

Hi List,

A bad thing happened to my Tr6 this morning - the piece of the frame that
holds the upper A-arm fulcrum broke out of the frame and the fulcrum slammed
into the shock tower.  I was very lucky that it stopped there.  The car is/was
sorta driveable, but the right front wheel looks very bad.  I checked out the
frame and tower and they look very weak/thin/rusted, probably unweldable.  The
other side didn't break loose but the frame material doesn't look very robust.
I assume the only fix is a new frame - does that sound right?  That's not in
the cards for me.

So I've decided to sell the little baby after 8 years.  Any ideas where to
advertise and what it might be worth?  I'm in northern Vermont, car is 1976
with J-type OD, newish interior, newish top (robbins),  halogen headlights
(with relays), minilite wheels, pertronix ignition, has been very reliable and
runs good.  Stock engine, electic fan, 100K miles.

This list has been terrific for me over the years - thanks for all the help.

George Loriot

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Fri May 30 12:54:50 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 14:54:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] toyota calipers
In-Reply-To: <581364.48336.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <581364.48336.qm@web30402.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <48404D7A.2050302@bright.net>

john doe wrote:
> does anyone know what model # is for the toyota conversion
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.3/1472 - Release Date: 5/29/2008 7:27 AM
>   
We sell the package - rebuilt calipers, stainless steel braid hose set  
(full 4 hose set) and no caliper core charge.  $250 plus shipping.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From lee at automate-it.com  Fri May 30 15:57:51 2008
From: lee at automate-it.com (Lee Daniels)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 16:57:51 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] the sad end of my triumph
In-Reply-To: <1EF6E5ECC183EA4CB3A2EE41E1F2D20802E9A1E3@MAIL3.AD.Brown.Edu>
References: <1EF6E5ECC183EA4CB3A2EE41E1F2D20802E9A1E3@MAIL3.AD.Brown.Edu>
Message-ID: <1265.74.95.210.211.1212184671.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>

George -

Very sorry to hear about the frame situation. Regarding selling it, you'll
have trouble getting any serious takers; if you have an eBay account, look at
the "complete" auctions for TRs in poor condition.

Because you have "newish" interior, top, etc. and MiniLites, etc. you'll do
much better by parting it out, but it's an incredible amount of work to do so.
If you present it right, though, you might get a reasonable offer from an
enthusiast.

 - Lee


> Hi List,
>
> A bad thing happened to my Tr6 this morning - the piece of the frame that
> holds the upper A-arm fulcrum broke out of the frame and the fulcrum slammed
> into the shock tower.  I was very lucky that it stopped there.  The car is/was
> sorta driveable, but the right front wheel looks very bad.  I checked out the
> frame and tower and they look very weak/thin/rusted, probably unweldable.  The
> other side didn't break loose but the frame material doesn't look very robust.
> I assume the only fix is a new frame - does that sound right?  That's not in
> the cards for me.
>
> So I've decided to sell the little baby after 8 years.  Any ideas where to
> advertise and what it might be worth?  I'm in northern Vermont, car is 1976
> with J-type OD, newish interior, newish top (robbins),  halogen headlights
> (with relays), minilite wheels, pertronix ignition, has been very reliable and
> runs good.  Stock engine, electic fan, 100K miles.
>
> This list has been terrific for me over the years - thanks for all the help.
>
> George Loriot
> _______________________________________________

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri May 30 17:10:36 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 16:10:36 -0700
Subject: [6pack] the sad end of my triumph
In-Reply-To: <1265.74.95.210.211.1212184671.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
References: <1EF6E5ECC183EA4CB3A2EE41E1F2D20802E9A1E3@MAIL3.AD.Brown.Edu>
	<1265.74.95.210.211.1212184671.squirrel@www.automate-it.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03E122FA@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	George:

	I would not take it for granted that it is unrepairable. If the
alternative is to sell it in undriveable condition, you will take a bath
on it. You would be much better off getting a used frame swapped in. In
the Portland area British Auto Works will replace your frame with a used
one that has been inspected.
	I bet that it is better for you to have a mechanic swap frames
and then sell it than to sell it in undriveable condition. Just a hunch.
	Do you have an LBC nearby that you can consult with? It may be
that you chould have just a shock tower replaced and not even mess with
a frame swap.
	All I am saying is do not write it off just yet.

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
> Hi List,
>
> A bad thing happened to my Tr6 this morning - the piece of the frame
that
> holds the upper A-arm fulcrum broke out of the frame and the fulcrum
slammed
> into the shock tower.  I was very lucky that it stopped there.  The
car is/was
> sorta driveable, but the right front wheel looks very bad.  I checked
out the
> frame and tower and they look very weak/thin/rusted, probably
unweldable.  The
> other side didn't break loose but the frame material doesn't look very
robust.
> I assume the only fix is a new frame - does that sound right?  That's
not in
> the cards for me.
>
> So I've decided to sell the little baby after 8 years.  Any ideas
where to
> advertise and what it might be worth?  I'm in northern Vermont, car is
1976
> with J-type OD, newish interior, newish top (robbins),  halogen
headlights
> (with relays), minilite wheels, pertronix ignition, has been very
reliable and
> runs good.  Stock engine, electic fan, 100K miles.
>
> This list has been terrific for me over the years - thanks for all the
help.
>
> George Loriot

From bengeult at comcast.net  Fri May 30 18:37:29 2008
From: bengeult at comcast.net (Greg Bengeult)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 17:37:29 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Dead brake servo
Message-ID: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net>

Fellow listers,

Today while out driving my '71 TR6 my brake servo failed.  It appears to 
be a vacuum leak in the main diaphragm that only shows up when I step on 
the brake pedal.  Needless to say, braking effort is now much higher.  
As this is my daily driver, I need to get it taken care of right away.

Who is currently rebuilding brake servos?  I'm looking specifically for 
someone who can sell me a rebuilt one right away, and then I'll send 
back the core after I do the R&R.

Many thanks,
Greg B
1971 TR6 CC63352L

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri May 30 19:13:20 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 21:13:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Dead brake servo
In-Reply-To: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net>
References: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <000501c8c2bb$86630b90$210110ac@bobspc>

Greg,
Give Ted Schumacher a call. I got my rebuilt servo from him over the winter.
He usually has rebuilt servos and calipers in stock.
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com/

You won't find them listed on his site so just call him up. 

 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Greg Bengeult
Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 8:37 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Dead brake servo

Fellow listers,

Today while out driving my '71 TR6 my brake servo failed.  It appears to be
a vacuum leak in the main diaphragm that only shows up when I step on the
brake pedal.  Needless to say, braking effort is now much higher.  
As this is my daily driver, I need to get it taken care of right away.

Who is currently rebuilding brake servos?  I'm looking specifically for
someone who can sell me a rebuilt one right away, and then I'll send back
the core after I do the R&R.

Many thanks,
Greg B
1971 TR6 CC63352L
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1473 - Release Date: 5/29/2008
7:53 PM

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri May 30 18:06:29 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Fri, 30 May 2008 20:06:29 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR6 4-pot Caliper Info - response
Message-ID: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71>

In my haste, I deleted the email from some poor soul who had asked about
Toyota 4-pot calipers for a TR6 ... details here
http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=1982
0&PartType=5003&PTSet=A

You can search around and get the caliper for less than the AAP $70 if you
look hard.  Don't forget, you will need to adapt the rigid line connection as
per all the excellent articles out there on the conversion.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************

From levilevi at comcast.net  Sat May 31 00:57:27 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 00:57:27 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Dead brake servo
References: <48409DC9.4000703@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <001f01c8c2eb$96b58240$9d63b043@rolofson>

Greg,

You can still drive it if you plug the vacuum line with a bolt...3/8 inch I
think.  The braking will be a bit more difficult but the brakes will still
stop you the same.  I had a servo go out at as I pulled into the parking lot
at VTR 2000 in Portland but someone convinced me that it was still driveable
and it was as I autocrossed without the servo and drove back to Denver with no
problems.  I actually got to like the feel of the brakes without the servo but
I still got it rebuilt and put back on anyhow.  The place in Ohio where I got
it rebuilt doesn't do them anymore so can't help with a resource.

Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Greg Bengeult
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack
  Sent: Friday, May 30, 2008 6:37 PM
  Subject: [TR] Dead brake servo


  Fellow listers,

  Today while out driving my '71 TR6 my brake servo failed.  It appears to
  be a vacuum leak in the main diaphragm that only shows up when I step on
  the brake pedal.  Needless to say, braking effort is now much higher.
  As this is my daily driver, I need to get it taken care of right away.

  Who is currently rebuilding brake servos?  I'm looking specifically for
  someone who can sell me a rebuilt one right away, and then I'll send
  back the core after I do the R&R.

  Many thanks,
  Greg B
  1971 TR6 CC63352L
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
  http://www.vtr.org


  Triumphs at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

  http://www.team.net/archive

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat May 31 05:18:24 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 04:18:24 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Dead brake servo
Message-ID: <326024.26120.qm@web36108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Greg
This is the company that bought PartCo. Kept this for my own future
reference.
Dale
For all you enthusiats that used Partco
Automotive...Found
this posted on the 6-PACK
(www.6-pack.org) website.  NFI

Cheers,

Todd
Bermudez
'67GT6
'68TR250
'74TR6

Just wanted to let you guys know that we are
repairing
Brake boosters on 
Triumph cars. We purchased the equipment &
inventory
of PARTCO 
Automotive in March of this year. We have been trained
by
Gary Price 
and are now ready to help you keep yor car stopping.
We will be
offering 
the same services & pricing that Gary offered, and we
reline brake
shoes 
and build brake hoses as well. We are celebrating our
70th year this
year. 
We are: Brake Materials & Parts, INC _800 Sherman
Blvd_Fort Wayne, IN
46808 260-426-3331 Scott We are looking forward to
helping you..Scott
----- Original Message ----
From: Greg Bengeult <bengeult at comcast.net>
To:
triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, May 30,
2008 8:37:29 PM
Subject: [6pack] Dead brake servo

Fellow listers,

Today
while out driving my '71 TR6 my brake servo failed.  It appears to 
be a
vacuum leak in the main diaphragm that only shows up when I step on 
the brake
pedal.  Needless to say, braking effort is now much higher.  
As this is my
daily driver, I need to get it taken care of right away.

Who is currently
rebuilding brake servos?  I'm looking specifically for 
someone who can sell
me a rebuilt one right away, and then I'll send 
back the core after I do the
R&R.

Many thanks,
Greg B
1971 TR6 CC63352L
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net 
http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You
are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Sat May 31 06:59:03 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 08:59:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 4-pot Caliper Info - response
In-Reply-To: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71>
References: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <48414B97.80106@bright.net>

Tony Gordon wrote:
> In my haste, I deleted the email from some poor soul who had asked about
> Toyota 4-pot calipers for a TR6 ... details here
> http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductDetail.aspx?MfrCode=A1C&MfrPartNumber=1982
> 0&PartType=5003&PTSet=A
>
> You can search around and get the caliper for less than the AAP $70 if you
> look hard.  Don't forget, you will need to adapt the rigid line connection as
> per all the excellent articles out there on the conversion.
>
> **************************************
> Tony Gordon
> 72 TR6
> **************************************
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 269.24.4/1475 - Release Date: 5/30/2008 2:53 PM
>   
Tony, you do not have to adapt the hard line. We make a stainless steel 
braid hose that goes directly into the caliper.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat May 31 08:02:30 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 10:02:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Front Hub Question
Message-ID: <20080531140227.HJCM23887.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@TRGUY>

Well the summer heat is kicking in so it is time to do some work on the TR6.
Yes - we do our "winter work" in the summer down here.  One of my first
projects is to fix a vibration that has been bugging me since I bought the
car many years ago. It only happens at 45 mph and you feel it in the
steering wheel and whole car.  I have already eliminated u joints, drive
shaft, wheels, tires, balancing, axles, diff etc over the years since they
have all been switched out.  I believe the culprit is a warped front
hub(advice from fellow enthusiast).  Is there any easy way to check the hub
beyond looking at it and spinning it around?  Also, how do you check a used
hub before installing to make sure it is true. I didn't want to spring for
new hubs and I have a "nice" looking used set.  Many thanks!

Jim Henningsen

75 TR6

Maitland, FL

 

.  

From trguy at cfl.rr.com  Sat May 31 08:14:14 2008
From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 10:14:14 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Front Mounting Nut
Message-ID: <20080531141411.WCGR21086.cdptpa-omta06.mail.rr.com@TRGUY>

Here's the update on my search for replacement hardtop front mounting square
nuts that are installed inside the front cages on the front edge of the
hardtop.  The cages are welded to the hardtop on three sides with the front
flap available for bending up to remove the nut.  The nut is a 5/16"-24 fine
thread and is not available at your local hardware or specialty fastener
shop (at least not mine unless I ordered 3200 of them).  Thank you to fellow
6pack member Bill Pugh for steering me to http://www.mcmaster.com
<http://www.mcmaster.com/>   They have them in stock in packages of 50 for
$7.95 plus shipping.  I ordered them and they are nearly an identical match
width height etc.  I kept a few for myself and sent the rest along with my
drilled out original to Dave H. at TRF so they have them in stock.  They
also didn't have any available prior.  The part number at McMaster is
<http://www.mcmaster.com/itm/find.asp?searchstring=93975A220&sesnextrep=3011
30126156969&tab=find&FastTrack=False&WRCntxt=OrdHist> 93975A220 and the part
number for TRF is NQ2708.

 

All the best,

Jim Henningsen

75 TR6

Maitland, FL

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Sat May 31 09:23:52 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:23:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 4-pot Caliper Info - response
In-Reply-To: <48414B97.80106@bright.net>
References: <81FB0D9752984DBFAE2F673FEBE63F1F@D1TG6Y71>
	<48414B97.80106@bright.net>
Message-ID: <4F9A79773C7B407B9D909975CC39BB86@marcydesk>

I'm a little confused here. Ted , do you sell a complete kit, calipers, hose 
& adapters ? I checked your site but did not see the product.




Mitch Seff

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Sat May 31 10:24:10 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 09:24:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 troubles (sad day)
Message-ID: <379607.83815.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi George:

Very sorry to hear of your TR6 trouble.  I know that you'll get all sorts of advice on what to do, but I would have that frame fully checked out before you make any rash decisions.  If in the end it IS fully shot to hell - I'd part it out rather than trying to sell.  It's a bit of work on your part, but it'll pay off in the end if you put in the time and you've got good parts.  The OD alone will bring in some good money.  

Where in Vermont are you?  I know of a local guy who welds and may be able to take a look at it for you.  He's done body work on my car in the past.  

Joe Merone  
CF18928
South Burlington, VT

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Sat May 31 10:35:31 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 11:35:31 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] Upgrading Nuts - Stainless vs Grade 5
Message-ID: <7368100.3064281212251731661.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>

I'm rebuilding my TR6 front and rear suspension, and am interested in upgrading the Nyloc Nuts for low corrosion. Has anyone used Stainless Steel 18-8? Or should I stick with Zinc Grade 5 (TRF stock) or consider Steel Grade 8.

Please share your 6-opinions, experience and advice.
Corey

From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Sat May 31 13:37:01 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 15:37:01 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Upgrading Nuts - Stainless vs Grade 5
References: <7368100.3064281212251731661.JavaMail.root@vms062.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <012c01c8c355$b355a4b0$6101a8c0@phoenix>

Corey,

When I rebuilt my chassis and suspension I replaced just about every nut, 
bolt and washer with Grade 8 hardware from the local Fastenal supplier 
(NFI).  You can purchase exactly what you need at a lower unit cost than 
most other places, including your local hardware store.  But frankly, you 
should not buy hardware from there anyway as the quality is not up to the 
standard that a specialized fastener distributor can provide.

Zinc is intended to become the oxidized surface over time, kind of the 
sacrificial lamb, thus protecting the the steel from the same fate.  If you 
want to prevent the zinc from oxidizing then the only avenue I know of is to 
spray a few coats of clear enamel over the exposed parts using a piece of 
plastic from 1 litre soda bottles with a hole cut to size to act as a mask. 
A pain in the tail but it works great.

I would never use stainless steel on anything subject to high stress (i.e. 
engine and suspension).  Maybe overkill but stainless will also eventually 
oxidize so the tradeoff is not worth it in my opinion.

Greg Dito
CD6250L

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Corey Sherman" <cm.sherman at verizon.net>
... Has anyone used Stainless Steel 18-8? Or should I stick with Zinc Grade 
5 (TRF stock) or consider Steel Grade 8.
>
> Please share your 6-opinions, experience and advice.
> Corey
> _______________________________________________

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sat May 31 15:43:15 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 14:43:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Front Hub Question
Message-ID: <349424.91502.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Jim,
&nbsp;
One of the easiest ways to check out a possible warped hub, without any specialized equipment, is to get a friend (this may be a rash assumption since I know you) who has a 6 and swap wheels one at a time.&nbsp; It may take a little longer but it is simple, which for me is necessary now that old timers disease has&nbsp;set in.
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 1969 and 1970 TR 6 

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sat May 31 17:50:30 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Sat, 31 May 2008 16:50:30 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Pedal Box dismantling and discovery
Message-ID: <20080531235349.2C373187657@autox.team.net>

Hi everyone!

I was putting a load of parts together today to take to the powder coater on
Monday.  My parts I am sending include the oil pan, the timing chain cover,
the motor mount brackets, the clutch and brake pedals and the pedal box.
I'm not sure if the oil pan and timing chain cover can be powder coated due
to heat exposure, but I'll see what they say.  I bought a new bushing kit
for the pedal shaft some time ago, so I expected to see worn steel bushings
inside the tube part of the pedals.  Instead, I found some deteriorated
unidentified non-metal material that was intended to limit the play of the
pivot area on the shaft.  I'm glad I have the steel bushings that press into
the pedal units to tighten up the pedal performance.  If anyone ever
considered doing this as a repair or performance improvement, taking the
pedal box apart is very straight forward and I think you can press in the
bushings with a regular bench vise.  

 

I have about two weeks to get my body back from the body shop, so I'm
closing in on having my rolling chassis ready to receive it.  Hopefully,
there aren't any major delays between now and my scheduled delivery.  

Andy