From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Mar 1 05:40:12 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 07:40:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] anyone recognize this mirror? In-Reply-To: <000801c87b39$b299df00$800101df@garage.local> References: <000801c87b39$b299df00$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <000c01c87b99$664ec470$6601a8c0@Robert> Morris or Austin Mini early years. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Mar 1 05:43:34 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 07:43:34 -0500 Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question In-Reply-To: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com> References: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com> Message-ID: <000d01c87b99$de72d720$6601a8c0@Robert> Careful now, the subject police might consider this a violation of the list use policies. 8-O Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 1 05:49:03 2008 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 04:49:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] su carbs Message-ID: <884240.16029.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone running su carbs for a tr6 get back to me please --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Mar 1 06:42:55 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 13:42:55 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Grey Interior References: <000a01c87b2f$deb82ab0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <001c01c87b7d$20bbb4c0$193c4d4f@TR6> Message-ID: <006701c87ba2$27bc9d50$0201a8c0@Bevan> Derek Thank you so much for clarifying the work you did to come to the conclusion that so few TR's were built in emerald and Grey. Having used the microfiche at Gaydon myself on many occasions when I worked there, I can readily appreciate the tedium and eyestrain you must have experienced to validate the data you gathered. For this work, someone ought to present you with a gold-plated crankshaft mounted on a fine piece of polished mahogany. I (happily) stand entirely corrected and apologise most profusely if it appeared I was seriously doubting Sam Clark's claims. Frankly, I'm amazed so few TR's were built in that colour combo as I think it is a delightful match in its own right. Cheers, John Macartney > With all due respect I did do a thorough interrogation of the TR6 CC75000 > and CP75000 series microfiche build records held by the BMIHT specifically > for trim code 78, ie Silver Grey trim. Grey trim was indeed detailed on the > Triumph colour charts for the late 1972 TR6 however until a few years ago it > had not been reported by any of our members in the TR Register. When I > discussed this with Anders Clauseger, who was the archivist at the BMIHT at > the time, he confirmed that had not come across it in any of his research > into the records for the TR6. In fact I have a photocopy of his notes on TR6 > production and he states "Grey trim listed in spec. book but not verified in > production records" I agree that it is a common trim colour for the rest of > the Triumph range however that is not the case for the TR6 and is borne out > by my research at the BMIHT. I would add that I didn't just have a 5 minute > cursory glance at the records it was carried out over at least three visits > going through each and every record. For the record the earliest CC and CP > that I came across with grey trim were CP76055 which was Emerald and > CC82000U which was also Emerald. Other colour combinations were Mallard, > Sapphire and Damson. I would love to stand corrected on this and I'm quite > sure that I will have missed one or two records. I certainly agree with what > you say that it wouldn't have made economic sense to have such a small > production run however that appears to be the case with less than forty cars > out of a production run of 91850 having this colour of trim. Incidentally > the much later Beige trim on the USA spec TR6 is very similar to Grey and > bri-nylon whilst it may have featured on the Spitfire and GT6 never appeared > on the TR6. Following the discovery of Sam's TR with grey trim which is the > only one that I am aware of in the US, two others have surfaced in the UK. > > Cheers > > Derek > TR6 Registrar > TR Register From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Mar 1 06:48:04 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 13:48:04 -0000 Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question References: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com> <000d01c87b99$de72d720$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <007001c87ba2$dfb81240$0201a8c0@Bevan> I recently bought a TomTom UK and Europe set-up. I admit to being very sneering in the past about GPS systems, claiming that if you couldn't read a map you ought not to be driving :) I eat my words. My TomTom has more than fulfilled my expectations and I actually used it last weekend in the Spitfire to get to and later get away from an obscure location in London. IMHO, whatever GPS system you choose to buy, they're all excellent pieces of kit and I suppose it all boils down to what price you want to pay, how the info is presented and which accent you like best that comes from the instrument itself. Jonmac From saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk Sat Mar 1 07:55:03 2008 From: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk (Derek) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 14:55:03 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Grey Interior In-Reply-To: <006701c87ba2$27bc9d50$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <000a01c87b2f$deb82ab0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <001c01c87b7d$20bbb4c0$193c4d4f@TR6> <006701c87ba2$27bc9d50$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <000d01c87bac$3b0d0700$193c4d4f@TR6> John, Its good to have a healthy debate on issues such as this as there is a lot of uncertainty over many issues relating to the TR6 so no apologies necessary whatsoever. I think its great that we have a forum such as the 6pack where we can do just that and not just accept something without question. Cheers Derek -----Original Message----- From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com] Sent: 01 March 2008 13:43 To: Derek; 'TR DOCTOR'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Grey Interior Derek Thank you so much for clarifying the work you did to come to the conclusion that so few TR's were built in emerald and Grey. Having used the microfiche at Gaydon myself on many occasions when I worked there, I can readily appreciate the tedium and eyestrain you must have experienced to validate the data you gathered. For this work, someone ought to present you with a gold-plated crankshaft mounted on a fine piece of polished mahogany. I (happily) stand entirely corrected and apologise most profusely if it appeared I was seriously doubting Sam Clark's claims. Frankly, I'm amazed so few TR's were built in that colour combo as I think it is a delightful match in its own right. Cheers, John Macartney From janah at att.net Sat Mar 1 09:07:36 2008 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 11:07:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR Colors Message-ID: <000501c87bb6$5df3c420$c901a8c0@p4home> As has been established the TR6PIs had blacked out rockers, Kamm Back and windscreen surround (70-76) as standard paint schemes. But Vance is correct about the origins. Bruce McWilliams form the US Marketing Group is generally credited in the literature as being the source of these styling ideals. John Cyg. From bobfabie at gmail.com Sat Mar 1 09:16:23 2008 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 11:16:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Permatex Hylomar Message-ID: Can anyone recommend a current source for Permatex Hylomar? Thank you. Bob Fabie From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Mar 1 10:40:53 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 12:40:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Permatex Hylomar In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c87bc3$679e83e0$210110ac@bobspc> Bob, ISTR that Peter (Moss Motors) told the Triumph List that the Moss Hylomar Part # 221-556 product is the "real" stuff. Anyone else remember that? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert fabie Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 11:16 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Permatex Hylomar Can anyone recommend a current source for Permatex Hylomar? Thank you. Bob Fabie 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.2/1305 - Release Date: 2/29/2008 6:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.2/1305 - Release Date: 2/29/2008 6:32 PM From bobfabie at gmail.com Sat Mar 1 11:18:37 2008 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 13:18:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Permatex Hylomar In-Reply-To: <000001c87bc3$679e83e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c87bc3$679e83e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: Thanks.Ilooked it up and they still seem to carry it. Thanks. Bob On 3/1/08, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > Bob, > ISTR that Peter (Moss Motors) told the Triumph List that the Moss Hylomar > Part # 221-556 product is the "real" stuff. Anyone else remember that? > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of robert fabie > Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 11:16 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Permatex Hylomar > > Can anyone recommend a current source for Permatex Hylomar? > Thank you. > Bob Fabie > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.2/1305 - Release Date: 2/29/2008 > 6:32 PM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.2/1305 - Release Date: 2/29/2008 > 6:32 PM From saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk Sat Mar 1 13:08:26 2008 From: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk (Derek) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 20:08:26 -0000 Subject: [6pack] TR Colors Message-ID: <000b01c87bd8$03313cd0$193c4d4f@TR6> John, You're absolutely right about Bruce McWilliams being the instigator for the blacked out rear panel and there is a very good interview of Bruce by Steven Rossi in VTR magazine no 33. He also influenced the front grille and badge and came up with the ideas for the rear wing transfer so we have a lot to thank him for. I have a scan of the article in pdf format that I can send if you want? Derek Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 11:07:36 -0500 From: "John Cyganowski" Subject: Re: [6pack] TR Colors To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000501c87bb6$5df3c420$c901a8c0 at p4home> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original As has been established the TR6PIs had blacked out rockers, Kamm Back and windscreen surround (70-76) as standard paint schemes. But Vance is correct about the origins. Bruce McWilliams form the US Marketing Group is generally credited in the literature as being the source of these styling ideals. John Cyg. From bouro at videotron.ca Sat Mar 1 13:47:47 2008 From: bouro at videotron.ca (Robert et Dominique Boudreault) Date: Sat, 01 Mar 2008 15:47:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Grey interior References: Message-ID: <000501c87bdd$82103bf0$6400a8c0@RODO> Hi all, First time on, more at the 6Pack Internet site. About the Grey interior, I was wondering what was the carpet color to match? I presume black but.... Regards, Robert TR6Quebec ------------------- > Message: 2 > Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 14:55:03 -0000 > From: "Derek" > Subject: Re: [6pack] Grey Interior > To: "'John Macartney'" , "'TR DOCTOR'" > , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Message-ID: <000d01c87bac$3b0d0700$193c4d4f at TR6> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" > > John, > > Its good to have a healthy debate on issues such as this as there is a lot > of uncertainty over many issues relating to the TR6 so no apologies > necessary whatsoever. I think its great that we have a forum such as the > 6pack where we can do just that and not just accept something without > question. > > Cheers > > Derek From TR6UO at aol.com Sat Mar 1 16:52:27 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 18:52:27 EST Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question Message-ID: Thanks for all the feedback on the GPS systems, guys. My apologies for using the TR forums for this, but I do value your opinions and was really stalled in the decision process. I'm going with the TomTomGO 720. If it's any consolation, I will put a 12v outlet on the TR and hide it in the glovebox- (Thanks Dick!), making this an official inquiry about an aftermarket accessory for the "6". I just couldn't think of a way to relate it to "tires" and make everyone happy. :-) Cheers! Steve '72 CCUO Latitude: 380 34' North Longitude: 1210 28' West **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duf fy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Mar 1 18:52:29 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 01:52:29 +0000 Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1056674377-1204422934-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1454341221-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I've seen a 12 volt cigarette lighter socket installed in the bottom of the ashtray for this purpose. When its not in use you can close the ashtray top and it dissapears. The ashtray comes out so it easy to drill our and install. I would though get the rubber plug for it to keep coins or trash from falling into it if someone mistakenly uses the ashtray. Lou -----Original Message----- From: TR6UO at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 18:52:27 To:standardtriumph at btinternet.com, trsix74 at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question Thanks for all the feedback on the GPS systems, guys. My apologies for using the TR forums for this, but I do value your opinions and was really stalled in the decision process. I'm going with the TomTomGO 720. If it's any consolation, I will put a 12v outlet on the TR and hide it in the glovebox- (Thanks Dick!), making this an official inquiry about an aftermarket accessory for the "6". I just couldn't think of a way to relate it to "tires" and make everyone happy. :-) Cheers! Steve '72 CCUO Latitude: 380 34' North Longitude: 1210 28' West **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duf fy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Mar 1 19:02:35 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 02:02:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Lobotomizing the steering lock on later model TR6's Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1C6882EF@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> I have always found the steering lock somewhat pointless and irritating especially when I need to do something that needs the wheels turned in a particular way and I have to go back in the house to get a key etc. I was wondering if there was a clean way to remove the column lock pin or if the best route is to just cut it off ? Stan From glccrc at ptd.net Sun Mar 2 02:28:41 2008 From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 04:28:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question In-Reply-To: <1056674377-1204422934-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1454341221-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <20080302092842.3E7ED187657@autox.team.net> I mounted a cigarette lighter socket below the dash, recessed back a bit to help conceal it- to recharge the Nextel leash I carry. Otherwise you're driving around with the dash open. glc -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lfm614 at aol.com Sent: Saturday, March 01, 2008 8:52 PM To: TR6UO at aol.com; standardtriumph at btinternet.com; trsix74 at comcast.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question I've seen a 12 volt cigarette lighter socket installed in the bottom of the ashtray for this purpose. When its not in use you can close the ashtray top and it dissapears. The ashtray comes out so it easy to drill our and install. I would though get the rubber plug for it to keep coins or trash from falling into it if someone mistakenly uses the ashtray. Lou -----Original Message----- From: TR6UO at aol.com Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 18:52:27 To:standardtriumph at btinternet.com, trsix74 at comcast.net, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question Thanks for all the feedback on the GPS systems, guys. My apologies for using the TR forums for this, but I do value your opinions and was really stalled in the decision process. I'm going with the TomTomGO 720. If it's any consolation, I will put a 12v outlet on the TR and hide it in the glovebox- (Thanks Dick!), making this an official inquiry about an aftermarket accessory for the "6". I just couldn't think of a way to relate it to "tires" and make everyone happy. :-) Cheers! Steve '72 CCUO Latitude: 380 34' North Longitude: 1210 28' West **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-du f fy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 2 06:41:25 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:41:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact Message-ID: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc> When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with the Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C with a .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore? And what would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an hydraulic throw out bearing? Would it make it feel lighter or heavier? And I'll also check with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008 5:41 PM From Pimento73 at aol.com Sun Mar 2 07:31:12 2008 From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 09:31:12 EST Subject: [6pack] Lobotomizing the steering lock on later model TR6's Message-ID: In a message dated 3/1/2008 9:04:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, stan.foster at hp.com writes: I have always found the steering lock somewhat pointless and irritating especially when I need to do something that needs the wheels turned in a particular way and I have to go back in the house to get a key etc. I was wondering if there was a clean way to remove the column lock pin or if the best route is to just cut it off ? If you take the inner steering column out, its easier to take the locking thing of the column - just grind the weld at each end, then pry apart in the middle and it comes right off - of course you have to be careful to grind the weld and not the column - pretty easy on a lathe, might be harder by hand Cheers, Jack Mc **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living. (http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/ 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598) From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Mar 2 07:51:03 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 14:51:03 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Lobotomizing the steering lock on later model TR6's In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1C688304@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Thanks Jack, that is an excellent suggestion and I do plan to rebuild the steering column shortly so I will have access to the inner column. Stan From: Pimento73 at aol.com [mailto:Pimento73 at aol.com] Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 9:31 AM To: Foster, Stan; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Lobotomizing the steering lock on later model TR6's In a message dated 3/1/2008 9:04:29 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, stan.foster at hp.com writes: I have always found the steering lock somewhat pointless and irritating especially when I need to do something that needs the wheels turned in a particular way and I have to go back in the house to get a key etc. I was wondering if there was a clean way to remove the column lock pin or if the best route is to just cut it off ? If you take the inner steering column out, its easier to take the locking thing of the column - just grind the weld at each end, then pry apart in the middle and it comes right off - of course you have to be careful to grind the weld and not the column - pretty easy on a lathe, might be harder by hand Cheers, Jack Mc From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sun Mar 2 08:12:52 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 10:12:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Grey interior In-Reply-To: <000501c87bdd$82103bf0$6400a8c0@RODO> References: <000501c87bdd$82103bf0$6400a8c0@RODO> Message-ID: Well, I just bought a set of grey carpet for my car. Currently, the car is white over black. I wanted something to break up the black-out in the interior. I'll post some photos when I get around to getting it installed. On an even better note, I got my car back after having the engine refreshed. Enjoyed about a two hour cruise down from the North Georgia Mountains running it in a bit. Vroom, vroom, spring is near. Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 On Mar 1, 2008, at 3:47 PM, Robert et Dominique Boudreault wrote: > Hi all, > > First time on, more at the 6Pack Internet site. > > About the Grey interior, I was wondering what was the carpet color > to match? > I presume black but.... > > Regards, > > Robert > TR6Quebec > ------------------- > >> Message: 2 >> Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 14:55:03 -0000 >> From: "Derek" >> Subject: Re: [6pack] Grey Interior >> To: "'John Macartney'" , "'TR >> DOCTOR'" >> , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> >> Message-ID: <000d01c87bac$3b0d0700$193c4d4f at TR6> >> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" >> >> John, >> >> Its good to have a healthy debate on issues such as this as there >> is a lot >> of uncertainty over many issues relating to the TR6 so no apologies >> necessary whatsoever. I think its great that we have a forum such >> as the >> 6pack where we can do just that and not just accept something without >> question. >> >> Cheers >> >> Derek > _ From triosan at gmail.com Sun Mar 2 09:12:07 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:12:07 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact In-Reply-To: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001401c87c6b$1e5e4aa0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803020812j5db3384fn9d75e25cb76b9909@mail.gmail.com> Bob, I used a Tilton .75" clutch MC with the Herman 5 speed and linear throwout bearing. Worked just fine. Be real sure to follow his directions on how much [little] clutch travel you need to work the bearing -- too much ruins it. On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 5:41 AM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black > gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with > the > Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C with a > .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore? And what > would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an hydraulic throw > out bearing? Would it make it feel lighter or heavier? And I'll also check > with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install. > > Thanks > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008 > 5:41 PM > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > -- Chuck Arnold From trdoctor at aol.com Sun Mar 2 09:59:27 2008 From: trdoctor at aol.com (TR DOCTOR) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 10:59:27 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Grey Interior In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <0c557ddd.87d0.4278.abf4.bcfcffb5496d@aol.com> Mine is black and that is what the BMIHT certificate calls for. When we were doing the restoration my wife called Gaydon and talked to Mr. Claussenger, the archivist, and he seemed very interested because he had never heard of the Grey interior and made the assumption that because there were so few of them made that it made sense to just use the black carpet. Sam and Carol Clark In a message dated 03/02/08 10:22:17 Central Standard Time, 6pack-request at autox.team.net writes: Hi all, First time on, more at the 6Pack Internet site. About the Grey interior, I was wondering what was the carpet color to match? I presume black but.... Regards, Robert TR6Quebec ------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Mar 2 13:43:28 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 12:43:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:41:25 -0500 Message-ID: <21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Bob---There is no reason why the .75 CMC wouldn't work with the hydraulic t/o bearing and the 5 speed. We know that the (heavier feel).75 bore pushes more fluid down the pipe, but this is not needed with the hydraulic t/o. In fact, if one had a mind to, an even smaller than the .70 bore would be nice. This would mean finding a CMC with such a bore, and piping it in. The hydraulic clutch setup only uses a partial clutch pedal depression to release the clutch, and this is why there is a "pedal stop bolt" with Herman's kit. A CMC with a smaller bore would mean a lighter clutch feel, and with plenty of pedal to activate the clutch, this might be welcome for some owner/drivers. I find that the .70 bore with the hydraulic clutch has a slightly lighter feel than when the stock linkage was used to activate the clutch. Less pedal drag from eliminating all of the linkage friction would be my guess as to why that it. Dick Sender: Bob D. wrote: When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with the Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C with a .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore? And what would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an hydraulic throw out bearing? Would it make it feel lighter or heavier? And I'll also check with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From lindquistse at gmail.com Sun Mar 2 14:56:30 2008 From: lindquistse at gmail.com (Stephen Lindquist) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 16:56:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Window glass Message-ID: <7dfdd1160803021356u3259f503u589f10680c80963@mail.gmail.com> I am replacing my window glass on the drivers and passenger doors on my TR250. The passenger window was attached to the window regulator with a rubber sleeve that had disintegrated and it came out easily. The other side has the regulator firmly attached with some material that is softer but much more tenacious. Its out of the car but now I need to remove the metal part from the glass. Any suggestions on how to loosen its grip on the window glass without risking breaking the window? This has been in an unheated garage at 30 Fand I've just brought it inside Thanks, Steve From bobfabie at gmail.com Sun Mar 2 15:22:42 2008 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 17:22:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Window glass In-Reply-To: <7dfdd1160803021356u3259f503u589f10680c80963@mail.gmail.com> References: <7dfdd1160803021356u3259f503u589f10680c80963@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Steve: I just finished that same task about two hours ago. I used a stiff 3 inch spatula and a rubber/nylon hammer and just tapped away until I could pull the metal piece away from the glass. If you have to replace the rubber "sleeve" that is glued to the bottom of the glass, TRF has it in stock for $4.00. It's part number 61766. I just reused mine and re-attached the glass to the metal piece (that the regulator attaches to) with silicone adhesive/sealant. It's drying as we speak. I chipped my driver's side door glass while replacing the inner/outer scrapers, regulator, window guides, etc. Another FANTASTIC list member (Michael Campsmith) came through with an OEM replacement in excellent condition. I hope this helps. Bob Fabie On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 4:56 PM, Stephen Lindquist wrote: > I am replacing my window glass on the drivers and passenger doors on my > TR250. The passenger window was attached to the window regulator with a > rubber sleeve that had disintegrated and it came out easily. The other > side > has the regulator firmly attached with some material that is softer but > much > more tenacious. Its out of the car but now I need to remove the metal part > from the glass. Any suggestions on how to loosen its grip on the window > glass without risking breaking the window? This has been in an unheated > garage at 30 Fand I've just brought it inside > > Thanks, Steve > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Mar 2 15:23:29 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 22:23:29 -0000 Subject: [6pack] GPS 12v power Message-ID: <01fa01c87cb4$0b36aff0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Without hacking this thread to death, its perfectly logical to install a 12v supply - and keep within originality issues. What many tend to forget is that TR6 and before, the number of people who smoked were far in excess of those who (like me) still indulge the habit today. I've always had a cigar lighter in all my cars and on the Triumphs, if they weren't fitted as standard, one was always fitted with its right-angled bracket to the base of the instrument panel. IMHO, you could do the same and not suffer judge penalty points. You're just using the power source for a GPS and not lighting your cigar(ettes) My 2 pee's worth Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 2 16:19:57 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 15:19:57 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] 69 radiator question In-Reply-To: <01fa01c87cb4$0b36aff0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <82659.41368.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> 69 TR6, hadn't run in 10+ years. now purrs like a kitten. after it wrarms up, it blows steam out of the overflow tube. have brand new radiator cap. wrong one? issue with the top of the radiator not being right? before i replaced it, the old one blew water. i guess steam is an improvement From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 2 16:32:35 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 17:32:35 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 69 radiator problems References: <000801c87b39$b299df00$800101df@garage.local> <000c01c87b99$664ec470$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <000201c87cbd$b3756ea0$800101df@garage.local> forgot to say there is no thermostat in the system From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 2 16:36:00 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 18:36:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact In-Reply-To: <21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> References: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Sun, 2 Mar 2008 08:41:25 -0500 <21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <000301c87cbe$2ea45050$210110ac@bobspc> Dick, I've been searching through my old email because last year I traded emails with list member, Mike Denman, who used a different M/C to get the lighter clutch feel his wife wanted. I just found the email. Here it is: "Herman said that several customers had already experimented with changing the master cylinders and he had heard that they were happier with the final result. With that information I contacted Apple Hydraulics (copy of the actual email below). Lazar of Apple Hydraulics quickly responded with some information to help me select the right master cylinder. I ordered and installed the 5/8 bore master cylinder from an Austin Healey 3000 and am very happy with it. The clutch pedal effort is reduced and the additional movement required at the clutch pedal gives the engagement more "feel" and is less abrupt. The installation of the new master cylinder looks exactly like the original. Installation is no different that replacing a bad master cylinder with a stock master cylinder. " Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 3:43 PM To: Bob Danielson Cc: 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact Bob---There is no reason why the .75 CMC wouldn't work with the hydraulic t/o bearing and the 5 speed. We know that the (heavier feel).75 bore pushes more fluid down the pipe, but this is not needed with the hydraulic t/o. In fact, if one had a mind to, an even smaller than the .70 bore would be nice. This would mean finding a CMC with such a bore, and piping it in. The hydraulic clutch setup only uses a partial clutch pedal depression to release the clutch, and this is why there is a "pedal stop bolt" with Herman's kit. A CMC with a smaller bore would mean a lighter clutch feel, and with plenty of pedal to activate the clutch, this might be welcome for some owner/drivers. I find that the .70 bore with the hydraulic clutch has a slightly lighter feel than when the stock linkage was used to activate the clutch. Less pedal drag from eliminating all of the linkage friction would be my guess as to why that it. No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008 5:41 PM From 6parts at charter.net Sun Mar 2 18:43:01 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 20:43:01 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Rheostat repair Message-ID: <008b01c87ccf$eaefaeb0$6e12b318@alan> I know somewhere there's listed a repair for the dash light rheostat. Besides bypassing it. i can't seem to locate it. Anybody know what web site its located on? Thanks Al From kirkpatricks at telus.net Sun Mar 2 20:20:28 2008 From: kirkpatricks at telus.net (Anne / Ross Kirkpatrick) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 19:20:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] British Leyland Radio Message-ID: <20080303032029.31LABA6TJ3@priv-edtnaa04.telusplanet.net> Does anyone know how to program a British Leyland Cassette Radio, specifically to set the clock? It apparently was taken from a 1970s Jaguar, MODEL #BLM 105098. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of image001.jpg] From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 2 20:29:13 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 2 Mar 2008 22:29:13 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Rheostat repair In-Reply-To: <008b01c87ccf$eaefaeb0$6e12b318@alan> References: <008b01c87ccf$eaefaeb0$6e12b318@alan> Message-ID: <000001c87cde$c3238cd0$210110ac@bobspc> Al, It might be mine http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/rheostat.htm though I ended up deciding to just bypass the darn thing! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 8:43 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] TR6 Rheostat repair I know somewhere there's listed a repair for the dash light rheostat. Besides bypassing it. i can't seem to locate it. Anybody know what web site its located on? Thanks Al 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008 5:41 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1306 - Release Date: 3/1/2008 5:41 PM From mgc4 at CDC.GOV Mon Mar 3 07:46:43 2008 From: mgc4 at CDC.GOV (Campsmith, Michael (CDC/CCID/NCHHSTP)) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 09:46:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Window glass In-Reply-To: <7dfdd1160803021356u3259f503u589f10680c80963@mail.gmail.com> References: <7dfdd1160803021356u3259f503u589f10680c80963@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <2764FE2328D0064FABD0AB92281F901402668CD5@LTA3VS003.ees.hhs.gov> If this has not already been answered, I advise using a heat gun to soften the rubberized material. Michael Campsmith 1974 TR6 (now BRG) -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+mgc4=cdc.gov at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+mgc4=cdc.gov at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Lindquist Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 4:57 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Window glass I am replacing my window glass on the drivers and passenger doors on my TR250. The passenger window was attached to the window regulator with a rubber sleeve that had disintegrated and it came out easily. The other side has the regulator firmly attached with some material that is softer but much more tenacious. Its out of the car but now I need to remove the metal part from the glass. Any suggestions on how to loosen its grip on the window glass without risking breaking the window? This has been in an unheated garage at 30 Fand I've just brought it inside Thanks, Steve 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mgc4 at cdc.gov From jmerone at rocketmail.com Mon Mar 3 07:57:23 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 06:57:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] GPS systems (non-Triumph) Message-ID: <887053.71419.qm@web30904.mail.mud.yahoo.com> For what it's worth, I purchased a Garmin GPS system for my father for his birthday. When he and my mother then went to Europe for a driving vacation he purchased the European road map plug-and-play chip for an additional $200+. Plug and play my butt. Although it's supposed to be simple, you don't know if it even works at all until you actually get to Europe and turn it on. Bad chip - it could never acquire the signal. So for three weeks they had to lug this thing around the continent constantly reminded that it sucked. But the story gets better... When they get back I tried to return it to where I purchased it - Buy.com. I didn't want it exchanged or fixed as the trip was over and the chip useless. Nope. Their return policy is good for a measly 14 days! Their customer service is the worst. They only deal in e-mails (no phones), couldn't comprehend or begin to understand the situation, and just keep pointing to their return policy. I took it as high up the food chain as I could (a lost in translation nightmare BTW), then disputed it with my credit card company. They did fight the good fight, but in the end Buy.com wouldn't budge. Two NO votes for Garmin and Buy.com. Food for thought. Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From jmitch at snet.net Mon Mar 3 08:16:08 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 10:16:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gorgeous 4 cylinder TR6 Message-ID: <47CC1638.60002@snet.net> Check out this TR6 built for Drag Racing. Does low 11's in the 1/4 mile and could be built for the street. John Mitchell http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/DaleKnapke.htm From superchargedtr6 at gmail.com Mon Mar 3 12:06:48 2008 From: superchargedtr6 at gmail.com (superchargedtr6 at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:06:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Shifting Woes Message-ID: <000701c87d61$bbb944c0$0600a8c0@SETH> Hi List, I owe you a response to my shifting woes email I sent several months ago. . If you recall, I suddenly had shifting into 1st problems (with motor running) out of nowhere at the VTR Convention last July. Well, finally pulled the gearbox with help from club members last week and found nothing broken. I thought maybe a broken fork or bad release bearing because the clutch was stuck in the engaged position and I had normal movement on the slave cylinder pushrod. Found nothing wrong/broken with the fork or Gunst bearing. What was found was all but 1 bolt holding the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel was very loose and 2 of the locating pins to position the clutch on to the flywheel were lying at the botton of the bell housing. it looked asif one of the fork pins had actually come out of the groove in the release bearing, but not sure. I'm wondering if one of those locating pins somehow got lodged in between the fork arm and dislodged the pin from the bearing groove. I know, far fetched theory Bottom line, still don't know what caused my shifting woes but put everything back together on Sat and will test tomorrow (Tues) when I fill the gearbox with gear oil. I need to reinstall the Gunst pre-load spring but don't remember how it goes and don't have the instructions that came with the throw out bearing. Can anyone provide me with the install instructions for that pre-load spring? Many thanks and I'll report back after tomorrow re: if it works Seth Glassman '76 (S/C'd) TR6 From triosan at gmail.com Mon Mar 3 12:10:55 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 11:10:55 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Clutch M/C Impact In-Reply-To: <21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> References: <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> <21594-47CB1170-3026@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803031110g3ce9fce6m7e780b8c57de113a@mail.gmail.com> You can certainly source much cheaper Clutch Master cylinders in bores smaller than.07 from Tilton or Wilwood. These bolt right up. I use a banjo and bolt On Sun, Mar 2, 2008 at 12:43 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Bob---There is no reason why the .75 CMC wouldn't work with the > hydraulic t/o bearing and the 5 speed. We know that the (heavier > feel).75 bore pushes more fluid down the pipe, but this is not needed > with the hydraulic t/o. In fact, if one had a mind to, an even smaller > than the .70 bore would be nice. This would mean finding a CMC with such > a bore, and piping it in. > > The hydraulic clutch setup only uses a partial clutch pedal depression > to release the clutch, and this is why there is a "pedal stop bolt" with > Herman's kit. A CMC with a smaller bore would mean a lighter clutch > feel, and with plenty of pedal to activate the clutch, this might be > welcome for some owner/drivers. > > I find that the .70 bore with the hydraulic clutch has a slightly > lighter feel than when the stock linkage was used to activate the > clutch. Less pedal drag from eliminating all of the linkage friction > would be my guess as to why that it. > > Dick > > Sender: > Bob D. wrote: > > When I drained my clutch M/C and looked inside there was dark gray/black > gunk inside. That can't be good, so I may install a new clutch M/C with > the Toyota 5 speed installation and wonder if the early TR6 clutch M/C > with a .75 bore is compatible with the later cars that had a .70 bore? > And what would the impact be on clutch feel which will now have an > hydraulic throw out bearing? > > Would it make it feel lighter or heavier? > > And I'll also check with Herman in case it impacts the tranny install. > Thanks > Bob > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 3 12:30:34 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 11:30:34 -0800 Subject: [6pack] 69 radiator question In-Reply-To: <82659.41368.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <01fa01c87cb4$0b36aff0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <82659.41368.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Oliver: Well, it obviously has a hot spot somewhere. First of all, you need to put a new thermostat in it. The cooling system is engineered to operate with one, and they cost $3. So put a new one in. I do not think this is why you are blowing steam, but you need to get the car back to baseline. If you have not already done so, you need to flush the old coolant out of the coolant system and refill with a fresh 50/50 mix of water/antifreeze. What does the temp gauge say when you are blowing steam? If you stop the car and put a thermometer in the coolant, what temp is your coolant? Check your compression. A blown head gasket or cracked head can give the symptoms you are describing. If compression is fine, and new coolant and a new thermostat don't cure it, then you are probably looking at removing the radiator and having it boiled out. BTW: Why was the thermostat removed in the first place? Was it an attempt to cure overheating? If so, then you really need to check your compression and get your radiator serviced. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of oliver Sent: Sunday, March 02, 2008 3:20 PM To: 6-Pack Subject: [6pack] 69 radiator question 69 TR6, hadn't run in 10+ years. now purrs like a kitten. after it wrarms up, it blows steam out of the overflow tube. have brand new radiator cap. wrong one? issue with the top of the radiator not being right? before i replaced it, the old one blew water. i guess steam is an improvement From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 3 12:56:51 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 11:56:51 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Shifting Woes In-Reply-To: 's message of Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:06:48 -0500 Message-ID: <21596-47CC5803-1112@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Seth--- It sounds like the disengagement problem stemmed from the clutch being mislocated on the flywheel. When the t/o bearing contacted the clutch fingers, some of them wouldn't act to separate the disc from the pressure plate. This could cause the clutch disc to drag (turn), and make engagement of first (and reverse) gear difficult. I'm reasonably sure that replacing the three clutch alinement pins and properly securing all of the clutch bolts will solve the problem for you. The preload strap is fastened at its back end to one of the transmission cover bolts. It will be obvious which one when looking up from under the car. The front end of this strap is connected to the spring that "loads" the t/o bearing. The other end of the spring connects to the bottom of the three holes in the clutch operating arm. There's a somewhat (my) crude sketch of this connection in some of TRF's seasonal catalogues, under " Gunst clutch t/o bearing upgrades". There might a better sketch of this in one of Nelson's Buckeye articles. Dick From: superchargedtr6 at gmail.com() Hi List, I owe you a response to my shifting woes email I sent several months ago. . If you recall, I suddenly had shifting into 1st problems (with motor running) out of nowhere at the VTR Convention last July. Well, finally pulled the gearbox with help from club members last week and found nothing broken. I thought maybe a broken fork or bad release bearing because the clutch was stuck in the engaged position and I had normal movement on the slave cylinder pushrod. Found nothing wrong/broken with the fork or Gunst bearing. What was found was all but 1 bolt holding the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel was very loose and 2 of the locating pins to position the clutch on to the flywheel were lying at the botton of the bell housing. it looked asif one of the fork pins had actually come out of the groove in the release bearing, but not sure. I'm wondering if one of those locating pins somehow got lodged in between the fork arm and dislodged the pin from the bearing groove. I know, far fetched theory Bottom line, still don't know what caused my shifting woes but put everything back together on Sat and will test tomorrow (Tues) when I fill the gearbox with gear oil. I need to reinstall the Gunst pre-load spring but don't remember how it goes and don't have the instructions that came with the throw out bearing. Can anyone provide me with the install instructions for that pre-load spring? Many thanks and I'll report back after tomorrow re: if it works Seth Glassman '76 (S/C'd) TR6 ______________________________________________ From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Mar 3 14:59:44 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:59:44 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Premature clutch pressure plate wear, tale of woe and intrigue. Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C216B2A3C@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Last winter I replaced my clutch with the TRF magic clutch system including a Sachs pressure plate and disc. I had the flywheel resurfaced, new engine and tranny mounts, gearbox and engine mated with alignment dowels in place. About 400 miles after re-assembly I started getting clutch judder in 1st gear and I lived/suffered with it all summer. This winter I pulled the engine and tranny for some engine work and inspected the clutch. There was nothing broken or loose and no obvious sign of contamination but the disc had one shiny rivet that looked iffy. I sent the disc back to TRF and they (Dave) returned it saying yes the rivet is oddly shiny but there is nothing wrong with the disc. I bought a new disc anyway with a small discount from TRF for my trouble. So the clutch judder was still a mystery Today I took the pressure plate and disc to the machine shop that is doing some work on my block, crank and head. He wanted the clutch parts to use when balancing the system. He took one look at the pressure plate and deemed it unfit due to wear. It has a ridge where the clutch plate engages and the surface appears "wavy". He doesn't believe that it should have worn that way in just a few hundred miles and thinks this could explain the judder. He was joking about offshore parts quality and suggested I examine the pressure plate for evidence of a Budweiser label in the metal. Anyhoo to cut a long and depressing story short, I am wondering if this was an isolated case or if there is a history of premature wear in the Sachs pressure plate especially, and modern clutch parts in general. Stan From triosan at gmail.com Mon Mar 3 15:08:48 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:08:48 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com> I am building a whole new system for my racer. I have a Mallory unilyte distributor and a crane cd ignition box and a crane heavy duty coil. Need to know IF I need a ballast resistor, and if so, what ohm value? Any takers on this one? -- Chuck Arnold From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Mar 3 15:11:36 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 17:11:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gorgeous 4 cylinder TR6 In-Reply-To: <47CC1638.60002@snet.net> References: <47CC1638.60002@snet.net> Message-ID: <000601c87d7b$8e2ea490$210110ac@bobspc> Oh Bowtie...........I see a race in your future once you get that engine back together ;-) Ford vs. Chevy! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Mitchell Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 10:16 AM To: 6-Pack Subject: [6pack] Gorgeous 4 cylinder TR6 Check out this TR6 built for Drag Racing. Does low 11's in the 1/4 mile and could be built for the street. John Mitchell http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/DaleKnapke.htm 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1307 - Release Date: 3/2/2008 3:59 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.3/1307 - Release Date: 3/2/2008 3:59 PM From triosan at gmail.com Mon Mar 3 15:35:05 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 14:35:05 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Ballast Resistor Value In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com> References: <8cbd782d0803031408g432e02d8k82c79520cc863bb8@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803031435g4ecea9bbye57b00cc0322c9f3@mail.gmail.com> So, I read the coil instructions -- no ballast required. Sorry, should have started there On Mon, Mar 3, 2008 at 2:08 PM, Chuck Arnold wrote: > I am building a whole new system for my racer. I have a Mallory unilyte > distributor and a crane cd ignition box and a crane heavy duty coil. Need > to know IF I need a ballast resistor, and if so, what ohm value? Any takers > on this one? > > > -- > Chuck Arnold > -- Chuck Arnold From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 3 16:22:29 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 15:22:29 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Speedometer rebuilder? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Listers, Unless you must have your particular speedometer overhauled (concours, sentiment, or??), usually the cheapest thing to do is find a used speedometer in good condition. The instruments usually outlast the rest of car, so they always seem to be on eBay or available from places like www.britishautoworks.com. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 5:00 PM To: grant at bowtie6.com; im_sloane at hotmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Speedometer rebuilder? Joe, I have used Nisonger a couple of times and they are good but $$$ David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Mar 3 16:43:26 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 17:43:26 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 69 radiator question References: <01fa01c87cb4$0b36aff0$0201a8c0@Bevan> <82659.41368.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00bd01c87d88$60642820$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Vance: Do you know the size (diameter) of the thermostat for a 1976 TR6? Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "oliver" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 1:30 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] 69 radiator question From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Mar 3 16:45:32 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 15:45:32 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions Message-ID: <244186.39531.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My speedometer is making a lot of noise (RMM-RMM-RMM) and the needle bounces around a 180 degree arc. I've lubed the cable so it turns freely. It was new one year ago. When I test the speedo using my adjustable speed drill it's quite silent. I've also tested it by having the drill turn the cable shaft on the dizzy end. It's quiet too. What in blazes am it missing here?! Jim From grant at bowtie6.com Mon Mar 3 17:18:16 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 19:18:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gorgeous 4 cylinder TR6 In-Reply-To: <000601c87d7b$8e2ea490$210110ac@bobspc> References: <47CC1638.60002@snet.net> <000601c87d7b$8e2ea490$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <001601c87d8d$3f2d6720$bd883560$@com> Oh-oh... That is a nice setup. A lot of work went into that one... Nicely done. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 17:12 To: 'John Mitchell'; '6-Pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Gorgeous 4 cylinder TR6 Oh Bowtie...........I see a race in your future once you get that engine back together ;-) Ford vs. Chevy! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 3 17:18:37 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 16:18:37 -0800 Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions In-Reply-To: <244186.39531.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <244186.39531.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Jim: I am confused. You said it is your speedo that is making the noise, but you tested the cable by turning the end on the dizzy? So, if it is the speedo, you tested the dizzy cable instead. You need to test the cable end at the transmission, not at the dizzy. The speedo gets its drive from the transmission, the *tachometer* is the one that hooks to the dizzy. So if your speedo is noisy, then we don't care about the tach cable. To test the speedo cable, you need to jack up the car, crawl underneath, pop the cable off the tranny and hook up the drill there. My bet is that your cable is bad or needs to be oiled. Sounds like your distributor cable is just fine though... Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jim Jones Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 3:46 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions My speedometer is making a lot of noise (RMM-RMM-RMM) and the needle bounces around a 180 degree arc. I've lubed the cable so it turns freely. It was new one year ago. When I test the speedo using my adjustable speed drill it's quite silent. I've also tested it by having the drill turn the cable shaft on the dizzy end. It's quiet too. What in blazes am it missing here?! Jim From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Mar 3 17:19:16 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 00:19:16 +0000 Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions In-Reply-To: <244186.39531.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <244186.39531.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1497696283-1204590140-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-346179219-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Have you checked the fit of the cable into the square drive in the speedo for looseness and the proper engagement length? Sometimes the cable doesn't go in all the way and spins in the drive reciever. This would cause the symptoms you describe. Lou -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 15:45:32 To:6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions My speedometer is making a lot of noise (RMM-RMM-RMM) and the needle bounces around a 180 degree arc. I've lubed the cable so it turns freely. It was new one year ago. When I test the speedo using my adjustable speed drill it's quite silent. I've also tested it by having the drill turn the cable shaft on the dizzy end. It's quiet too. What in blazes am it missing here?! Jim _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 3 18:20:15 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 17:20:15 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Premature clutch pressure plate wear, tale of woe and intrigue. In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:59:44 +0000 Message-ID: <4590-47CCA3CF-3915@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Stan---If the clutch disc was only making partial contact with the pressure plate, it would explain the "judder" you experienced. I don't understand the "shiny rivet" tho, as these should be well below (.062 or so) the friction material when new. I have no direct experience with Sachs products, but it doesn't seem like what you have is typical. Hopefully you don't have the classic cowl shake that plagues some roadsters. Dick From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Last winter I replaced my clutch with the TRF magic clutch system including a Sachs pressure plate and disc. I had the flywheel resurfaced, new engine and tranny mounts, gearbox and engine mated with alignment dowels in place. About 400 miles after re-assembly I started getting clutch judder in 1st gear and I lived/suffered with it all summer. This winter I pulled the engine and tranny for some engine work and inspected the clutch. There was nothing broken or loose and no obvious sign of contamination but the disc had one shiny rivet that looked iffy. I sent the disc back to TRF and they (Dave) returned it saying yes the rivet is oddly shiny but there is nothing wrong with the disc. I bought a new disc anyway with a small discount from TRF for my trouble. So the clutch judder was still a mystery Today I took the pressure plate and disc to the machine shop that is doing some work on my block, crank and head. He wanted the clutch parts to use when balancing the system. He took one look at the pressure plate and deemed it unfit due to wear. It has a ridge where the clutch plate engages and the surface appears "wavy". He doesn't believe that it should have worn that way in just a few hundred miles and thinks this could explain the judder. He was joking about offshore parts quality and suggested I examine the pressure plate for evidence of a Budweiser label in the metal. Anyhoo to cut a long and depressing story short, I am wondering if this was an isolated case or if there is a history of premature wear in the Sachs pressure plate especially, and modern clutch parts in general. Stan ______________________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 3 18:27:25 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 17:27:25 -0800 Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions In-Reply-To: Jim Jones 's message of Mon, 3 Mar 2008 15:45:32 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <4590-47CCA57D-3923@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Jim---Your hand drill needs to be capable of matching the speed of the instrument in question, when it hums. (Is it the speedo or the "dizzy")? Be sure to have the same angle of cable turns in play when you make the check. If the sheath is worn enough, the inner cable could grab and let go, grab and etc... Dick E-mail message Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com(Jim Jones) Date: Mon, Mar 3, 2008, 3:45pm To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions My speedometer is making a lot of noise (RMM-RMM-RMM) and the needle bounces around a 180 degree arc. I've lubed the cable so it turns freely. It was new one year ago. When I test the speedo using my adjustable speed drill it's quite silent. I've also tested it by having the drill turn the cable shaft on the dizzy end. It's quiet too. What in blazes am it missing here?! Jim ______________________________________ From davidaschenck at comcast.net Mon Mar 3 19:43:44 2008 From: davidaschenck at comcast.net (David A. Schenck) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 21:43:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal Message-ID: <20080304024426.084C1187652@autox.team.net> List, I bought a new lock cylinder for my 250 trunk lid as the ignition key didn't work in the trunk lock. I thought it would be pretty easy to pop out the old cylinder. I see the two pins and I punched them out but can't get the lock cylinder out. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to remove the cylinder. Thanks, Dave TR250 Towson, MD From jimmble at roadrunner.com Mon Mar 3 20:03:40 2008 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (James Franks) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 19:03:40 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Gorgeous 4 cylinder TR6 Message-ID: <6498053.1204599820066.JavaMail.root@web22> It's not just a drag car. He drives it quite a bit. I rode in it a few years ago. It's a gas! -- Jim Franks Too many projects, too little time. No good deed goes unpunished. ---- John Mitchell wrote: ============= Check out this TR6 built for Drag Racing. Does low 11's in the 1/4 mile and could be built for the street. John Mitchell http://www.britishv8.org/Triumph/DaleKnapke.htm 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Mar 3 21:36:42 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 03 Mar 2008 23:36:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal In-Reply-To: <20080304024426.084C1187652@autox.team.net> References: <20080304024426.084C1187652@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <8CA4BC87AE97DEC-11A8-2966@webmail-me09.sysops.aol.com> Dave, I could be wrong, but I don't think the ignition key is supposed to fit the trunk lock.? On my car I have two keys, one for each and the trunk key is smaller in size than the ignition key.? Maybe others who are more knowledgeable can chime in here. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: David A. Schenck To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 9:43 pm Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal List, I bought a new lock cylinder for my 250 trunk lid as the ignition key didn't work in the trunk lock. I thought it would be pretty easy to pop out the old cylinder. I see the two pins and I punched them out but can't get the lock cylinder out. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to remove the cylinder. Thanks, Dave TR250 Towson, MD From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 3 21:40:05 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 22:40:05 -0600 Subject: [6pack] spark plugs References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000c01c87db2$e26798f0$800101df@garage.local> http://www.ranteer.com/misc/ hi, all. this is the 69 that hadn't run for 10++ years. the plug on the right came out of #6. all the others look like the plug on the left. i have not yet set the valves. compression tested as: 1 170 2 155 3 155 4 155 5 165 6 140 anyone want to point me in a direction to figure this one out? thanks. From chalkp at internode.on.net Mon Mar 3 22:45:13 2008 From: chalkp at internode.on.net (Peter Chalk) Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 16:15:13 +1030 Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions In-Reply-To: <4590-47CCA57D-3923@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> References: <4590-47CCA57D-3923@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <47CCE1E9.7000806@internode.on.net> Ive had issues here too with my 2500 - not my '6 tho.. doesn't do enough km Some noise, but v. jumpy speedo needle.. Firstly went thru the tasks of re-greasing the cable path all along the cable sheath.... smoothness improved a little, but no bananas! Then all speedo registration gave up and left it while I got a few speeding tickets.. I put a cordless drill on the gearbox end of the cable and this indicated the issue.. Got another nylon drive gear for the gearbox end and voila... smooth, (more) accurate speedo.. The other one had obvious wear but still had teeth . Bad enough to disable the speedo though. Make sure you top the gearbox back up again as you lose some oil from the OD when changing over.. cheers Peter Chalk '69 TR6 PI '77 2500S saloon > E-mail message > > Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: > jimjcmo at yahoo.com(Jim Jones) Date: Mon, Mar 3, 2008, 3:45pm To: > 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] speedo opinions > My speedometer is making a lot of noise (RMM-RMM-RMM) and the needle > bounces around a 180 degree arc. I've lubed the cable so it turns > freely. It was new one year ago. When I test the speedo using my > adjustable speed drill it's quite silent. I've also tested it by having > the drill turn the cable shaft on the dizzy end. It's quiet too. > What in blazes am it missing here?! > Jim > ______________________________________ From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Mar 4 08:27:31 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 07:27:31 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal References: <20080304024426.084C1187652@autox.team.net> <8CA4BC87AE97DEC-11A8-2966@webmail-me09.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <001401c87e0c$73ee6610$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> On my 70 I have 3 keys: Glovebox and trunk same key Doors Ignition Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 8:36 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal > Dave, > > I could be wrong, but I don't think the ignition key is supposed to fit the trunk lock.? On my car I have two keys, one for each and the trunk key is smaller in size than the ignition key.? Maybe others who are more knowledgeable can chime in here. > > Aaron > > > > > > Aaron Cropley > 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) > http://www.triumphowners.com/108 > 2002 Mini Cooper S > Topsham, Maine > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David A. Schenck > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 9:43 pm > Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal > > > > > > > > > > > List, > > > > I bought a new lock cylinder for my 250 trunk lid as the ignition key didn't > work in the trunk lock. I thought it would be pretty easy to pop out the > old cylinder. I see the two pins and I punched them out but can't get the > lock cylinder out. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to remove the > cylinder. > > > > Thanks, > > > Dave > > > > TR250 > > Towson, MD > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From davidaschenck at comcast.net Tue Mar 4 05:43:30 2008 From: davidaschenck at comcast.net (David A. Schenck) Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 07:43:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal In-Reply-To: <001401c87e0c$73ee6610$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <20080304124359.29066187677@autox.team.net> Bob, Aaron and List, I guess I should have just said I don't any key that works in the trunk so I need to replace it. Thanks, Dave -----Original Message----- From: Bob [mailto:rpeglow at optonline.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 04, 2008 10:28 AM To: acekraut11 at aol.com; davidaschenck at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal On my 70 I have 3 keys: Glovebox and trunk same key Doors Ignition Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 8:36 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal > Dave, > > I could be wrong, but I don't think the ignition key is supposed to fit the trunk lock.? On my car I have two keys, one for each and the trunk key is smaller in size than the ignition key.? Maybe others who are more knowledgeable can chime in here. > > Aaron > > > > > > Aaron Cropley > 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) > http://www.triumphowners.com/108 > 2002 Mini Cooper S > Topsham, Maine > > > > > > > -----Original Message----- > From: David A. Schenck > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 9:43 pm > Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal > > > > > > > > > > > List, > > > > I bought a new lock cylinder for my 250 trunk lid as the ignition key didn't > work in the trunk lock. I thought it would be pretty easy to pop out the > old cylinder. I see the two pins and I punched them out but can't get the > lock cylinder out. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to remove the > cylinder. > > > > Thanks, > > > Dave > > > > TR250 > > Towson, MD > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From acekraut11 at aol.com Tue Mar 4 09:19:54 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 11:19:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal In-Reply-To: <011301c87dbc$91d13630$c7fba8c0@hp> References: <20080304024426.084C1187652@autox.team.net> <8CA4BC87AE97DEC-11A8-2966@webmail-me09.sysops.aol.com> <011301c87dbc$91d13630$c7fba8c0@hp> Message-ID: <8CA4C2AB71DAA7A-A8C-3DD@webmail-de02.sysops.aol.com> I'm sure my 76 has two keys,,,,,but then again I never lock my trunk so not really sure... You might want to pass this on,,I changed my email address and can't post to the list anymore...Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 03, 2008 11:36 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal Dave, I could be wrong, but I don't think the ignition key is supposed to fit the trunk lock.? On my car I have two keys, one for each and the trunk key is smaller in size than the ignition key.? Maybe others who are more knowledgeable can chime in here. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: David A. Schenck To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Mon, 3 Mar 2008 9:43 pm Subject: [6pack] TR250 Trunk Lock Cylinder Removal List, I bought a new lock cylinder for my 250 trunk lid as the ignition key didn't work in the trunk lock. I thought it would be pretty easy to pop out the old cylinder. I see the two pins and I punched them out but can't get the lock cylinder out. I would appreciate any suggestions on how to remove the cylinder. Thanks, Dave TR250 Towson, MD From triosan at gmail.com Tue Mar 4 11:30:39 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 10:30:39 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Disparately need a part Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803041030m339b8899j9b59c643b249d449@mail.gmail.com> I am installing a Mallory dual point distributor in my TR6 race car. I need to convert it to electronic from points to work with my ignition system. The part number I need is a Mallory 560 Unilyte conversion kit. Mallory is out of stock and production is not scheduled till early April. The major parts supplier's [Summit, Jegs, Amazon, otherrs] do not have it in stock. So -- does anyone 1. Have one they could sell/loan 2. Know of any supplier who might have it on hand? 3. Know another email list to query? Help, help!! -- Chuck Arnold From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Mar 4 12:03:17 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Tue, 04 Mar 2008 14:03:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Disparately need a part In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0803041030m339b8899j9b59c643b249d449@mail.gmail.com> References: <8cbd782d0803041030m339b8899j9b59c643b249d449@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Chuck; Tried here? http://performanceparts.com/part.php?partID=182652 Dave Friedlander '74-Six ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Arnold Date: Tuesday, March 4, 2008 1:32 pm Subject: [6pack] Disparately need a part To: Friends , Triumph <6pack at autox.team.net>, list Triumph > I am installing a Mallory dual point distributor in my TR6 race > car. I need > to convert it to electronic from points to work with my ignition > system.The part number I need is a Mallory 560 Unilyte conversion > kit. Mallory is > out of stock and production is not scheduled till early April. > The major > parts supplier's [Summit, Jegs, Amazon, otherrs] do not have it in > stock. > So -- does anyone > 1. Have one they could sell/loan > 2. Know of any supplier who might have it on hand? > 3. Know another email list to query? > > Help, help!! > > -- > Chuck Arnold > _______________________________________________ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Mar 4 12:33:16 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:33:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] '75 TR6 Flywheel Bolts Message-ID: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc> I just want to confirm that there are no lock/split washers used with the flywheel bolts on a TR6. Also.....do you use blue or red on no thread lock? Thanks Bob ....just got the flywheel & PP back from the machine shop! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.4/1309 - Release Date: 3/3/2008 6:50 PM From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 4 12:39:10 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:39:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] '75 TR6 Flywheel Bolts In-Reply-To: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Tue, 4 Mar 2008, Bob Danielson wrote: > I just want to confirm that there are no lock/split washers used with the > flywheel bolts on a TR6. Also.....do you use blue or red on no thread lock? NO lockwashers. I use red, aka "high strength" I think it's #272 Use the factory torque spec. > Thanks > > Bob ....just got the flywheel & PP back from the machine shop! Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 4 12:41:36 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:41:36 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] '75 TR6 Flywheel Bolts In-Reply-To: References: <000001c87e2e$9ce46bb0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Tue, 4 Mar 2008, Robert Lang wrote: > On Tue, 4 Mar 2008, Bob Danielson wrote: > >> I just want to confirm that there are no lock/split washers used with the >> flywheel bolts on a TR6. Also.....do you use blue or red on no thread lock? > > NO lockwashers. > > I use red, aka "high strength" > > I think it's #272 Oopps - it's 271 toodles rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Mar 4 17:05:10 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 4 Mar 2008 16:05:10 -0800 Subject: [6pack] '75 TR6 Flywheel Bolts In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Tue, 4 Mar 2008 14:33:16 -0500 Message-ID: <4842-47CDE3B6-4290@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> Bob---Unless you are going to rev the engine past redline as a habit, I'd suggest using the Blue Loctite. When the time comes to take off the flywheel again, you can do so without using heat to soften the bond. Dick Bob D. wrote: I just want to confirm that there are no lock/split washers used with the flywheel bolts on a TR6. Also.....do you use blue or red on no thread lock? Thanks Bob ....just got the flywheel & PP back from the machine shop! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.4/1309 - Release Date: 3/3/2008 6:50 PM ______________________________________________ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Mar 5 13:34:31 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 15:34:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Oil Seal Replacement Message-ID: <003d01c87f00$52c32f30$210110ac@bobspc> Do you always grease the outside diameter of the oil seal before replacing it? I'm doing the rear oil seal and that's what Bentley says to do. I always thought you just tapped them in dry and only lubed the inside diameter so it slides over whatever easily. But then again, this aluminum housing scares me and maybe the grease makes it less stressful....for the housing and me! :-) Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Mar 5 15:09:09 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 14:09:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Oil Seal Replacement In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Wed, 5 Mar 2008 15:34:31 -0500 Message-ID: <9735-47CF1A05-446@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Bob D.---There's probably no "wrong" way to do this seal replacement. Dry, or with some sort of lube. To avoid scoring of any seal housing, it's good to 'feel" for any handling or manufacturing burrs on the seal's steel OD I wipe the housing with a couple drops of motor oil, to assist in sliding iin the seal. As I write this, I don't recall the rear seal having a steel outer ring. ?? Dick From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson Do you always grease the outside diameter of the oil seal before replacing it? I'm doing the rear oil seal and that's what Bentley says to do. I always thought you just tapped them in dry and only lubed the inside diameter so it slides over whatever easily. But then again, this aluminum housing scares me and maybe the grease makes it less stressful....for the housing and me! :-) Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ______________________________________________ From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Mar 5 20:40:40 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 03:40:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C44C@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> In 2006 as part of a gearbox project I replaced my clutch system with a new one that included a Sachs pressure plate. About 400 miles after installation I started experiencing clutch judder. This winter, at 800 miles since the new clutch, I had reason to pull the engine and tranny so I got a look at the clutch. The clutch plate shows negligible signs of wear when compared to a new plate. The pressure plate on the other hand has a significant step in it. I haven't measured it but you can see it and feel it. It might be 1/32 of an inch. The recessed area is shiny and has a wavy appearance. My original B&B pressure plate which I still have is as flat as a pancake despite the 10's of thousands of miles. I was wondering how much a pressure plate could wear before the clutch would start to slip, would an amount sufficient to create a noticeable indent in the pressure plate be enough ?. Stan From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed Mar 5 20:55:30 2008 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 19:55:30 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 Flywheel Bolts - ARP Message-ID: <625342.68363.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I used ARP flywheel bolts. They came with lockwashers, special thread dressing compound and specific tightening/torqueing instructions. Torque setting was different from the factory manual. Probably overkill for my mildly modified engine, but some peace of mind and, you could tell this was special hardware. Fun to see and use. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Wed Mar 5 21:05:01 2008 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 20:05:01 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Chuck Desperately needs a part Message-ID: <484248.19174.qm@web65606.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Chuck: If I recall correctly Century Performance in Nevada has Mallory Unilite Distributors for about $310.00 Maybe sell the dual point on ebay. They brag about their connections with the Mallory factory. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers and share what you know at http://ca.answers.yahoo.com From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Wed Mar 5 21:54:08 2008 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 23:54:08 EST Subject: [6pack] Chuck Desperately needs a part Message-ID: I put a Mallory Dual Point in a 60 Austin-Healey and it worked great. Then the owner decided he wanted it to be electronic so I got the conversion kit. Dang thing never did work right so we ended up replacing the whole set up with a new fully electronic Mallory Unilite. Haven't had a problem since. Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Wed Mar 5 22:08:36 2008 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 00:08:36 EST Subject: [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale Message-ID: One of my good friends has decided that Vintage Racing is not his cup of tea so to speak. SO...We have some VERY nice and VERY lightly used goodies for sale. 1 pair of new style mid-height Oakley racing shoes 10.5 size in black. 1 XL G-Force Racing Suit Blue 2 XL Carbon X Oakley underwear (Tops & Bottoms) 1 Oakley Carbon X Balaclava 2 Pair of Carbon X Socks 1 Pair of G-Force Racing Gloves (Large I think) 1 Bell M4 White Helmet in Large (With Hans set up) 1 Hans Sport Device (New Style) 1 Set of G-Force Arm Restraints 1 G-Force Gear Bag All of the above has been used for ONE weekend!! We also have one nicely prepared 72 MG Midget For those who may be interested in any or all of the above please contact me. It is in my shop in Branson, MO. I can send pictures and details. Bill of Sale only. CVAR log books and has passed the CVAR 08 Tech Inspection. Car ran very well at TWS. Former David Littlefield Car. This is the last car built by David McCullough of Ishida Motorsports (DFW) before Pinnacle took over. McCullough has years of experience racing Spridgets, including at the Runoffs in the 70's. The motor was built by Bob Weber of SFD engines-- also a legend in Spridget racing. It was formerly owned by David Mhoon. It is eligible for all CVAR authenticity points, except it currently does not have an alternator. Motor is relatively mildly tuned for reliability. As it is, it is a top-third FP car. Pam's best at TWS with this setup was a 2:09. That used to be good enough to run in the top 4, but the competition has gotten faster. Pam ran about mid-pack in class at the Walter Mitty races at Road Atlanta. The car also has some history-- it ran in the 50th Collier Cup at Watkins Glen. The motor has seen quite a few races, but still has good compression and makes good power. The 2:09 was done in September of last year, so it is no slouch. Eventually it will need a freshening. Price on the car is $9000. Equipment prices are open to reasonable offers. Reasonable being the key word. I can be reached via e-mail at _gsfuqua1 at aol.gsf_ (mailto:gsfuqua1 at aol.com) or on my cell phone 417-593-9503 **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Wed Mar 5 22:14:07 2008 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 00:14:07 EST Subject: [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2 Message-ID: Because the original message was too long the following are some of the specs on the car. Please contact me for more details or pictures. One nicely prepared 72 MG Midget It comes equipped with: Safety: Ishida/Pinnacle roll cage, including under-scuttle hoop and door bars. Built-in fire suppression system with nozzles in cockpit and engine bay. Professionally installed Fuel Safe 5 gallon fuel cell. Kirkey seat bolted to the cage. Will accommodate a fairly tall/large driver. Stainless steel brake lines and oil lines. Simpson belts with about 2 years life left. Forged front spindles. Suspension: Shimmed shocks and offset trunnion bushings for about 2 degrees negative camber. Double bearing hubs. Competition axles from Winners Circle. Front sway bar from Winners Circle with well-reinforced mounts. Rear adjustable sway bar from Winners Circle. Panhard bar. Urethane bushings throughout. Removable steering wheel. 450 lb. front springs. 1/2" lowered spring pans. 2" lowered rear springs. KN Minator wheels. Yokohama A032S tires, used, but with a few good races left in them. Engine and transmission: Legal 1275 motor bored .040 over. 1.5 ratio rockers. Rimflo valves. Winner's Circle sump. Lightened flywheel. 1 1/4" carbs. LCB header and custom side exhaust. EGT gauge and sensor setup. O2 Sensor system (not installed). Patented Littlefield quick-release radiator system. Pertronix ignition and Lucas Sport Coil. Magnecor wires. New Borg & Beck clutch and throwout bearing. Gear reduction starter (with Littlefield reliability mod). Quick release clutch slave cylinder. Electronic fuel pump and billet filter. 3/8" fuel line. Engine stabilizer. Stock transmission with reverse lock-out. Half a dozen or so races on rebuild. 3.9 rear end Price on the car is $9000. Equipment prices are open to reasonable offers. Reasonable being the key word. I can be reached via e-mail at _gsfuqua1 at aol.gsf_ (mailto:gsfuqua1 at aol.com) or on my cell phone 417-593-9503 Trades might be considered. Also has a VERY nice 79 MGB for sale. Orange or Vermilion as the British called it. Let me know if you have interest in that. It has just been freshly completed and ready for the season. Price on the MGB is $13500. High I know but you need to see what all it has. Trust me there has been a LOT more spent on the car. Cheers, Gary Fuqua **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Mar 6 00:54:09 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 5 Mar 2008 23:54:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Thu, 6 Mar 2008 03:40:40 +0000 Message-ID: <26748-47CFA321-227@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Stan--- The clutch plate, counting both sides, has about .120 of lining on it before hitting the riivets. Altho we don't usually wear down a clutch this far, I have seen them worn down to where there was only about .030 of linng left, and the clutch did not slip. Having a step in the pressure plate of about 1/32 is not in itself a reason for the slippage. It should still "clamp". The problem most is likely from the clutch plate not fitting or riiding down inside this step. If a part of the disc is trying to ride the lip, it will slip and judder. Different diameter clutch plates could be the culprit here. Variations of .125 aren't uncommon when going from one brand to another, and using the old pressure plate. I've never seen a pressure plate wear down like the one you have, but a step in the flywheel could cause the same judder that you feel. (That, I have experienced when changing to a different disc that was a little larger) A cocked pressure plate could also cause the slippage and judder, as with Seth's '76 TR. You'll want to be sure that it mates flush with the flywheel when installing. A few thin feeler gauges around the perimeter can come in handy as you tighten down the clutch bolts. I'd be interested in how you come out of this! Dick From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) In 2006 as part of a gearbox project I replaced my clutch system with a new one that included a Sachs pressure plate. About 400 miles after installation I started experiencing clutch judder. This winter, at 800 miles since the new clutch, I had reason to pull the engine and tranny so I got a look at the clutch. The clutch plate shows negligible signs of wear when compared to a new plate. The pressure plate on the other hand has a significant step in it. I haven't measured it but you can see it and feel it. It might be 1/32 of an inch. The recessed area is shiny and has a wavy appearance. My original B&B pressure plate which I still have is as flat as a pancake despite the 10's of thousands of miles. I was wondering how much a pressure plate could wear before the clutch would start to slip, would an amount sufficient to create a noticeable indent in the pressure plate be enough ?. Stan ______________________________________________ From cm.sherman at verizon.net Thu Mar 6 05:32:50 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman) Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 06:32:50 -0600 (CST) Subject: [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale, Part 2 Message-ID: <30869668.932551204806770164.JavaMail.root@vms172.mailsrvcs.net> Gary, With all due respect, this is not the forum in which to advertise - commercially or private offerings - Triumph related or otherwise. There are many individuals that are directly connected to businesses, and they all refrain from any postings that may have any financial interest or bias. The LIST, primarily serves as a forum to promote the exchange of ideas, thoughts and knowledge - dedicated to the preservation, restoration and enjoyment of our cars - and to discuss and share information about British cars or Auto-x, racing, and related people, events, parts sources, technical info, etc. Please refer to the policy as post on the team.net site. (http://www.team.net/www/corp-use.html) If you would like to post to inform, sell or give away parts and/or cars, please list them in such forum as the Autojumble or else where as appropriate. Corey Sherman From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Mar 6 06:06:17 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 08:06:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Freeze Plug Problem? Message-ID: <001301c87f8a$dfbc4090$210110ac@bobspc> There's a metal plug at the rear of the engine, just above and to the left of the rear oil seal housing. It looks like Moss Part# 328-225 and called "PLUG, core, rear of camshaft". It more like an inverted metal cap that's just pressed in place. There's no threads that I can see. The problem is that I can easily spin it by hand. It seems to me that this would be an Oil Seeping point. So, if I need to replace it, how do I remove it? And any installation suggestions or techniques? Thanks........two steps forward & one step backward. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Mar 6 08:01:14 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 15:01:14 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? In-Reply-To: <26748-47CFA321-227@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> References: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Thu, 6 Mar 2008 03:40:40 +0000 <26748-47CFA321-227@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C457@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Dick, the pressure plate and clutch plate were both new and replaced at the same time (it was part of a TRF magic clutch kit). The flywheel was resurfaced. Clutch plate shows no sign of wear Flywheel shows a very slight sign of wear Pressure plate has a noticeable step in it. Understand your point about the disc straddling the step, not sure if can do that after installation though. Also understand your point about poorly installed cover plate. I'll be sure to check that on reassembly. None of this is going back in the car but I am still curious to know why this system failed after 400 miles.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 2:54 AM To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? Stan--- The clutch plate, counting both sides, has about .120 of lining on it before hitting the riivets. Altho we don't usually wear down a clutch this far, I have seen them worn down to where there was only about .030 of linng left, and the clutch did not slip. Having a step in the pressure plate of about 1/32 is not in itself a reason for the slippage. It should still "clamp". The problem most is likely from the clutch plate not fitting or riiding down inside this step. If a part of the disc is trying to ride the lip, it will slip and judder. Different diameter clutch plates could be the culprit here. Variations of .125 aren't uncommon when going from one brand to another, and using the old pressure plate. I've never seen a pressure plate wear down like the one you have, but a step in the flywheel could cause the same judder that you feel. (That, I have experienced when changing to a different disc that was a little larger) A cocked pressure plate could also cause the slippage and judder, as with Seth's '76 TR. You'll want to be sure that it mates flush with the flywheel when installing. A few thin feeler gauges around the perimeter can come in handy as you tighten down the clutch bolts. I'd be interested in how you come out of this! Dick From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Mar 6 08:05:40 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 10:05:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 Flywheel Bolts - ARP In-Reply-To: <625342.68363.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> References: <625342.68363.qm@web65613.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 5 Mar 2008, Bruce Simms wrote: > I used ARP flywheel bolts. They came with lockwashers, special thread > dressing compound and specific tightening/torqueing instructions. Ummm, I don't think that setup uses a lockwasher. The ones I got had 12 pt bolts that had a pronounced radius in the transition from the bolt body to the head. This required a chamfered washer which was available for another $1 or $2 each. > Torque setting was different from the factory manual. Probably overkill > for my mildly modified engine, but some peace of mind and, you could > tell this was special hardware. Fun to see and use. Depending on when you did this mod, it might have been the only reliable option... but I use ARP too on the race car. Nice hardware. And not really overkill. > Bruce Simms > 73 TR6 Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Mar 6 08:32:24 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 07:32:24 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Freeze Plug Problem? In-Reply-To: <001301c87f8a$dfbc4090$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001301c87f8a$dfbc4090$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: If you can move it, it needs to be replaced. Drill a hole in it, and then use an oil seal puller to lever it out. Alternatively, thread a #12 (or larger) sheet metal screw into the hole, and use a claw hammer to pull on the head of the screw and yank the plug out. Use the largest sheet metal screw you can, if it is too small the screw will pull out before the plug does. Be careful when drilling as the cam is behind that plug. Not that your drill can hurt the cam, but you could bend/break your drill bit when it suddenly punches through the plug. It is a plain old STEEL freeze plug, available from Napa for $1. Do not use a brass freeze plug. In this case it is simply used to block off the end of the cam gallery, it is not used to hold in coolant. It is a standard size (English of course) so everyone carries it. Take your old one to the parts man, and he will fix you up. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 5:06 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' Subject: [6pack] Freeze Plug Problem? There's a metal plug at the rear of the engine, just above and to the left of the rear oil seal housing. It looks like Moss Part# 328-225 and called "PLUG, core, rear of camshaft". It more like an inverted metal cap that's just pressed in place. There's no threads that I can see. The problem is that I can easily spin it by hand. It seems to me that this would be an Oil Seeping point. So, if I need to replace it, how do I remove it? And any installation suggestions or techniques? Thanks........two steps forward & one step backward. Bob Bob Danielson From patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 6 08:56:49 2008 From: patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net (Patrick Bloem) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 07:56:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] items for sale In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <716402.44592.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Vintage Racing is not his cup of tea so to speak. SO...We have some VERY nice and VERY lightly used goodies for sale. Used only 1 weekend. 1 pair of new style mid-height Oakley racing shoes 10.5 size in black. 1 XL G-Force Racing Suit Blue 2 XL Carbon X Oakley underwear (Tops & Bottoms) Snip Me thinks that maybe the one and out race may want you to pass on the underwear bottoms specifically! --- 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote: From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Mar 6 09:04:05 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 16:04:05 +0000 Subject: [6pack] items for sale In-Reply-To: <716402.44592.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <716402.44592.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C45E@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> I was hoping to secure the (used once) underwear for Bob Lang as a birthday gift. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Patrick Bloem Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 10:57 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] items for sale Vintage Racing is not his cup of tea so to speak. SO...We have some VERY nice and VERY lightly used goodies for sale. Used only 1 weekend. 1 pair of new style mid-height Oakley racing shoes 10.5 size in black. 1 XL G-Force Racing Suit Blue 2 XL Carbon X Oakley underwear (Tops & Bottoms) Snip Me thinks that maybe the one and out race may want you to pass on the underwear bottoms specifically! From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Mar 6 09:09:49 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 11:09:49 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] items for sale In-Reply-To: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C45E@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <716402.44592.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C45E@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: On Thu, 6 Mar 2008, Foster, Stan wrote: > I was hoping to secure the (used once) underwear for Bob Lang as a birthday > gift. Yikes! I gotta go take a shower now! Eeeeeeeeyuuuuuuuuuu! :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Mar 6 09:55:17 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 16:55:17 +0000 Subject: [6pack] items for sale In-Reply-To: References: <716402.44592.qm@web81104.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C45E@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C463@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bob, this could be you if you could only overcome your fear of, er, skid marks. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/Bob-Racer.j pg -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 11:10 AM To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] items for sale On Thu, 6 Mar 2008, Foster, Stan wrote: > I was hoping to secure the (used once) underwear for Bob Lang as a birthday > gift. Yikes! I gotta go take a shower now! Eeeeeeeeyuuuuuuuuuu! :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Mar 6 10:06:21 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 09:06:21 -0800 Subject: [6pack] FW: Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? Message-ID: Stan: Did you check to see if any of the springs in the clutch disk are broken/damaged? This could also be a source of shudder. Some other suspects: Motor mounts & tranny mounts. As long as you are in there, might as well inspect/replace as needed. They are all cheap, so if you are the least bit suspicious - toss the old ones. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Wednesday, March 05, 2008 7:41 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? The clutch plate shows negligible signs of wear when compared to a new plate. The pressure plate on the other hand has a significant step in it. I haven't measured it but you can see it and feel it. It might be 1/32 of an inch. The recessed area is shiny and has a wavy appearance. My original B&B pressure plate which I still have is as flat as a pancake despite the 10's of thousands of miles. I was wondering how much a pressure plate could wear before the clutch would start to slip, would an amount sufficient to create a noticeable indent in the pressure plate be enough ?. Stan From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Mar 6 10:30:10 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:30:10 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Gary, I'm afraid my opinion is 180 degrees off from some others. I welcome this sort of postings in my list in box. Id rather those who might have an interest have a chance to know about this sort of thing. It was clearly listed in the header what it was. If you don't care to read about it hit the delete key. Thanks for letting us know it was available. Marty _________________________________________________________________ Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 6 11:57:10 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:57:10 -0600 Subject: [6pack] OT - funeral music References: <001901c87d39$b0053bc0$2d02a8c0@Belkin> Message-ID: <006e01c87fbb$e4bad300$8d8aa8c0@garage.local> first - my apologies - i know this can be a sensitive topic - i lost my own father last October - again my apologies i don't want to offend anyone a recent choice for a funeral at our church was "stayin alive" by the bee gees From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Thu Mar 6 13:07:51 2008 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 15:07:51 EST Subject: [6pack] (no subject) Message-ID: Corey, this was a posting for a friend that wants to recoup some of his investment. I have NO financial interest in this. Classic Sports Cars is just the way my sign off goes out. Besides, there are plenty of people who know me personally from that. This is the ONE and ONLY posting of this nature I have made. I am NOT running my business through the 6-Pack list. This was NOT a commercial posting and you know it. So, with all due respect. Chill out. Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Mar 6 13:46:34 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 12:46:34 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Thu, 6 Mar 2008 15:01:14 +0000 Message-ID: <5858-47D0582A-1143@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Stan---There are fans of the Sachs clutch package on the list. Some of these folks are anti-B&B. Other than a slipping problem with one of their "flat fingered" clutches, I happen to like the great service that B&B has given me over the last 30 years. Still, it's hard to imagine that there could've been a lapse on Sachs' manufacturing that let some soft plates get out. Maybe you can take a file to the Sachs p-plate and compare it to the B&B you still have? Other than a hardness problem, it would seem that the clutch was cocked when bolted to the flywheel. A burr on an alignment pin, or something? A new groove that developed on the resurfaced flywheel also points to something like this. Since you probably don't want to revisit this area again. check out the pilot bushing, and the fit of the t/o bearing carrier sleeve on the front cover. .Keep everything running on center. Dick E-mail message From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, Mar 6, 2008, 3:01pm (PST+8) To: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? Dick, the pressure plate and clutch plate were both new and replaced at the same time (it was part of a TRF magic clutch kit). The flywheel was resurfaced. Clutch plate shows no sign of wear Flywheel shows a very slight sign of wear Pressure plate has a noticeable step in it. Understand your point about the disc straddling the step, not sure if can do that after installation though. Also understand your point about poorly installed cover plate. I'll be sure to check that on reassembly. None of this is going back in the car but I am still curious to know why this system failed after 400 miles.. Stan From jmitch at snet.net Thu Mar 6 15:22:56 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 06 Mar 2008 17:22:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? In-Reply-To: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C457@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Thu, 6 Mar 2008 03:40:40 +0000 <26748-47CFA321-227@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C457@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <47D06EC0.4050503@snet.net> Stan, I was wondering if when your were last reinstalling your transmission, you allowed the transmissions weight to hang on the input shaft, while you were getting things lined up? I did this, and it caused the clutch plate to warp slightly, and gave the same symptoms as you describe. I now use very long studs in place of the top 3 bell housing bolts so the tranny can hang on those until I get things lined up enough for it to slide together. Just a thought. John Mtichell 76 TR6 Foster, Stan wrote: > Dick, the pressure plate and clutch plate were both new and replaced at the > same time (it was part of a TRF magic clutch kit). The flywheel was > resurfaced. > > Clutch plate shows no sign of wear > Flywheel shows a very slight sign of wear > Pressure plate has a noticeable step in it. > > Understand your point about the disc straddling the step, not sure if can do > that after installation though. Also understand your point about poorly > installed cover plate. I'll be sure to check that on reassembly. > > None of this is going back in the car but I am still curious to know why this > system failed after 400 miles.. > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] > Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 2:54 AM > To: Foster, Stan > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? > > > Stan--- The clutch plate, counting both sides, has about .120 of lining > on it before hitting the riivets. Altho we don't usually wear down a > clutch this far, I have seen them worn down to where there was only > about .030 of linng left, and the clutch did not slip. Having a step in > the pressure plate of about 1/32 is not in itself a reason for the > slippage. It should still "clamp". The problem most is likely from the > clutch plate not fitting or riiding down inside this step. If a part of > the disc is trying to ride the lip, it will slip and judder. > Different diameter clutch plates could be the culprit here. Variations > of .125 aren't uncommon when going from one brand to another, and using > the old pressure plate. > > I've never seen a pressure plate wear down like the one you have, but a > step in the flywheel could cause the same judder that you feel. (That, I > have experienced when changing to a different disc that was a little > larger) > > A cocked pressure plate could also cause the slippage and judder, as > with Seth's '76 TR. You'll want to be sure that it mates flush with the > flywheel when installing. A few thin feeler gauges around the perimeter > can come in handy as you tighten down the clutch bolts. > > I'd be interested in how you come out of this! > > Dick From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Mar 6 15:44:05 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 22:44:05 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? In-Reply-To: <47D06EC0.4050503@snet.net> References: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Thu, 6 Mar 2008 03:40:40 +0000 <26748-47CFA321-227@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C457@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> <47D06EC0.4050503@snet.net> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C479@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> John, that's a good thought. The tranny did not go in willingly although I did support it on blocks while my next door neighbor and I manhandled it into its final position and eventually go the two mated. I used the alignment dowels, new engine and rear tranny mounts, I thought I had done everything right and the system worked fine for several weeks and 400 miles. The next time I do this will be in a few weeks when we put my engine back together so this time I will be mating the tranny to the engine before installing into the car so I'm hoping to avoid any gremlins of my own making. Stan -----Original Message----- From: John Mitchell [mailto:jmitch at snet.net] Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 5:23 PM To: Foster, Stan Cc: Sally or Dick Taylor; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Worn pressure plate as the cause of clutch judder ? Stan, I was wondering if when your were last reinstalling your transmission, you allowed the transmissions weight to hang on the input shaft, while you were getting things lined up? I did this, and it caused the clutch plate to warp slightly, and gave the same symptoms as you describe. I now use very long studs in place of the top 3 bell housing bolts so the tranny can hang on those until I get things lined up enough for it to slide together. Just a thought. John Mtichell 76 TR6 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Mar 6 16:17:29 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 23:17:29 -0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale References: <47D06F9B.6000605@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <065c01c87fe0$4036e380$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hmm, not too sure where I stand in all this. Clearly I have periodically 'mis-used' the lists for the shameless promotion of the ST book I wrote some years ago and which so many people kindly ordered. Obviously I should have found other methods. However a further thought occurs. As many know, I'm undertaking a marathon drive across the States and Canada next year in a Stag and there's a very definite financial interest in that. Simply, its to raise as much money as I can for three charities - though I'll be making nothing out of it myself, other than writing another book about the whole trip. I've got a financial objective to somehow raise US$300k out of the trip and many on the lists have signed up for periodic updates of the event website and the trip itself. If the prime objective of all the lists is to preclude any 'advertising' in which there is a prominent financial motive, I'm wondering whether I should keep my updates off these lists and only notify those who have signed up to the "Keep yourself informed" button on the website. I'd appreciate some fairly adjacent guidance please on how I should proceed from now onwards. I also apologise for having misued the lists in the past concerning my book. Jonmac From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Mar 6 16:21:04 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 18:21:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] OT - funeral music In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hmmm. I want a little " 30 days in the hole" by Humble Pie. That, and Dave Massey playing Amazing Grace on the bagpipes. Marty > From: TR250Driver at aol.com > Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 16:58:26 -0500 > To: sumton at sbcglobal.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [TR] OT - funeral music > > Well Huh, since you brought that up, my choice would be "And When I Die" > Blood Sweat & Tears. "Just let me go naturally" , "one child born in this > world to carry on" and all that rot. I apologise too. > > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & > Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com > > http://www.team.net/archive _________________________________________________________________ Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join From johnehorton at yahoo.com Thu Mar 6 16:53:56 2008 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 15:53:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale In-Reply-To: <065c01c87fe0$4036e380$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <540956.79025.qm@web51906.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I am president of the DCTRA in Phoenix. We just went thru a diatribe caused by a purest. I managed to contain it. The lists are for us Triumph people to exchange ideas and as necessary equipment. If someone sells some thing to another so be it! For charity I should think no problemo! A commercial ongoing sale could cause this to become a commercial sales venue, I personally would have some umbrage on that! John Horton John Macartney wrote: Hmm, not too sure where I stand in all this. Clearly I have periodically 'mis-used' the lists for the shameless promotion of the ST book I wrote some years ago and which so many people kindly ordered. Obviously I should have found other methods. However a further thought occurs. As many know, I'm undertaking a marathon drive across the States and Canada next year in a Stag and there's a very definite financial interest in that. Simply, its to raise as much money as I can for three charities - though I'll be making nothing out of it myself, other than writing another book about the whole trip. I've got a financial objective to somehow raise US$300k out of the trip and many on the lists have signed up for periodic updates of the event website and the trip itself. If the prime objective of all the lists is to preclude any 'advertising' in which there is a prominent financial motive, I'm wondering whether I should keep my updates off these lists and only notify those who have signed up to the "Keep yourself informed" button on the website. I'd appreciate some fairly adjacent guidance please on how I should proceed from now onwards. I also apologise for having misued the lists in the past concerning my book. Jonmac 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Mar 6 17:01:35 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 00:01:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale In-Reply-To: <065c01c87fe0$4036e380$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <47D06F9B.6000605@earthlink.net> <065c01c87fe0$4036e380$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B659939C47D@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> There is a fine line but I don't personally think that John or for that matter Gary have crossed it. If we were getting spammed every other day I might have a problem but we are not there yet. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2008 6:17 PM To: marty sukey Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net; fot at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale Hmm, not too sure where I stand in all this. Clearly I have periodically 'mis-used' the lists for the shameless promotion of the ST book I wrote some years ago and which so many people kindly ordered. Obviously I should have found other methods. However a further thought occurs. As many know, I'm undertaking a marathon drive across the States and Canada next year in a Stag and there's a very definite financial interest in that. Simply, its to raise as much money as I can for three charities - though I'll be making nothing out of it myself, other than writing another book about the whole trip. I've got a financial objective to somehow raise US$300k out of the trip and many on the lists have signed up for periodic updates of the event website and the trip itself. If the prime objective of all the lists is to preclude any 'advertising' in which there is a prominent financial motive, I'm wondering whether I should keep my updates off these lists and only notify those who have signed up to the "Keep yourself informed" button on the website. I'd appreciate some fairly adjacent guidance please on how I should proceed from now onwards. I also apologise for having misued the lists in the past concerning my book. Jonmac From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Mar 6 19:22:34 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 18:22:34 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Freeze Plug Problem? In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Thu, 6 Mar 2008 08:06:17 -0500 Message-ID: <21061-47D0A6EA-1323@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Bob D.---If all else fails, remove the cam and pop out this plug using a sawed-off broom handle. It will surely leak oil if not properly sealed. Dick From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielsont There's a metal plug at the rear of the engine, just above and to the left of the rear oil seal housing. It looks like Moss Part# 328-225 and called "PLUG, core, rear of camshaft". It more like an inverted metal cap that's just pressed in place. There's no threads that I can see. The problem is that I can easily spin it by hand. It seems to me that this would be an Oil Seeping point. So, if I need to replace it, how do I remove it? And any installation suggestions or techniques? Thanks........two steps forward & one step backward. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ______________________________________________ From glccrc at ptd.net Thu Mar 6 19:55:53 2008 From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 21:55:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] charity use In-Reply-To: <065c01c87fe0$4036e380$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20080307025610.C67A8187682@autox.team.net> Jon- The list membership told you what they think of your posts by responding positively in a rather convincing manner, I think. glc -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney I'd appreciate some fairly adjacent guidance please on how I should proceed from now onwards. I also apologise for having misued the lists in the past concerning my book. Jonmac 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Mar 6 20:46:29 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 22:46:29 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Oil Pan Gasket Message-ID: <000a01c88005$d56a1470$210110ac@bobspc> OK.....what is the difference between the TR6 oil pan gasket that the Big 3 sells: Moss is $18 while VB and TRF is about $8. Is the Moss one from Payen? It seems MUCH thicker. Anything different installing the Moss one? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 6 20:53:22 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 6 Mar 2008 19:53:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] tr3 on ebay In-Reply-To: <000a01c88005$d56a1470$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <635429.48543.qm@web82804.mail.mud.yahoo.com> istr that the triumph letters on the tail weren't put on until after this car? am i right? From cm.sherman at verizon.net Fri Mar 7 03:33:46 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:33:46 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale Message-ID: <1557317144-1204886025-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-83881869-@bxe136.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I am reluctant to reply but do so simply to close this matter, not to fuel this debate. All these points of view are valid. A simple short call to action (FYI with NFI) broadcast occasionally is always welcomed, especially when the cause is noble or benefits the community at large. And while it is easy to hit "delete" - when I received a second Goodies email, listing first a 72 Midget and then 79 MGB - I was expecting a "part 3" email. Mu apologies for wasting your time, suggesting to the list we adhere to team.net policies, and any difficulty caused to Gary - he's a good guy - not foul, no harm. Corey 'chilled' Sherman Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From cm.sherman at verizon.net Fri Mar 7 03:46:52 2008 From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (cm.sherman at verizon.net) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 10:46:52 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale Message-ID: <231307047-1204886817-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1756987291-@bxe136.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I am reluctant to reply but do so simply to close this matter, not to fuel this debate. All these points of view are valid. A simple short call to action (FYI with NFI) broadcast occasionally is always welcomed, especially when the cause is noble or benefits the community at large. And while it is easy to hit "delete" - when I received a second Goodies email, listing first a 72 Midget and then 79 MGB - I was expecting a "part 3" email. Mu apologies for wasting your time, suggesting to the list we adhere to team.net policies, and any difficulty caused to Gary - he's a good guy - not foul, no harm. Corey 'chilled' Sherman Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry From trsix74 at comcast.net Fri Mar 7 05:06:40 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 12:06:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Oil Pan Gasket Message-ID: <030720081206.14502.47D12FD00007BBEA000038A62200750330CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net> $10 difference (I had to use my calculator) and the thickness. And oh by the way, postage will be differnt. Otherwise they all have the same shape and number of holes. I recommend using gasket sealer, non hardening on both sides and make sure all surfaces are clean and free of debris. From jay_welch at juno.com Fri Mar 7 05:16:40 2008 From: jay_welch at juno.com (Jay Welch) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 12:16:40 GMT Subject: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale Message-ID: <20080307.071640.26177.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> I personally don't have a problem with a for sale post as we all know how many "pertinent" Triumph topics have been discussed for weeks ad nauseum on our lists. How about just allowing a quick note to alert the lists that a party has some items for sale on the autojumble. Allowing this note might promote more traffic on that list as well. Jay in MA -- cm.sherman at verizon.net wrote: I am reluctant to reply but do so simply to close this matter, not to fuel this debate. All these points of view are valid. A simple short call to action (FYI with NFI) broadcast occasionally is always welcomed, especially when the cause is noble or benefits the community at large. And while it is easy to hit "delete" - when I received a second Goodies email, listing first a 72 Midget and then 79 MGB - I was expecting a "part 3" email. Mu apologies for wasting your time, suggesting to the list we adhere to team.net policies, and any difficulty caused to Gary - he's a good guy - not foul, no harm. Corey 'chilled' Sherman Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jay_welch at juno.com _____________________________________________________________ Need cash? Click to get an emergency loan, bad credit ok http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3mKmy72lGNukxuD5s95PSdBc3gr i27Fp6fgEsB6Ahv98jlVM/ From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Mar 7 06:50:55 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 13:50:55 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Racing Goodies for Sale In-Reply-To: <20080307.071640.26177.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> References: <20080307.071640.26177.0@webmail21.vgs.untd.com> Message-ID: Hi all, Just wanted to add my .02, as this horse is looking pretty sick already. Just food for thought. I'd have no problem at all with a posting of items for sale if no body replied to said message to the entire group. Simply take all replies off list and nobody is harmed. IMO, of course, Sloane :) 69'Six _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Mar 7 07:08:32 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 09:08:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question Message-ID: <000801c8805c$bc2161b0$210110ac@bobspc> What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how much one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of minutes with or without a load on it? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rgperry at earthlink.net Fri Mar 7 07:40:53 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 08:40:53 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [6pack] TR6 Oil Pan Gasket Message-ID: <3326865.1204900854063.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Try your local auto parts store first. I can get Payen gaskets locally. Greg Perry From bratt at sasktel.net Fri Mar 7 08:12:24 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Fri, 07 Mar 2008 09:12:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question References: <000801c8805c$bc2161b0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <001a01c88065$a68586c0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Bob: Usually it is hydraulic malfunction, requiring repair or replacement. I have found that sometimes draining and replacing the hydraulic jack oil with new oil will remedy it. One other thing that can happen is air can get into the reservoir. In normal use there can be some air entry. Most jack instructions say to open the release valve only 1/2 turn when lowering. Sometimes an operator will lower the jack and leave the release valve open, letting air in. If there is air in the jack, the way to remove it is; with the cylinder fully retracted, remove the valve, then fill the jack with jack oil. A disposable hypodermic from the farm store makes this easy. Jack oil substitutes are not to be used. Leave the jack sit with the opening uppermost and watch for escaping air bubbles. If you are satisfied there is no more air in the reservoir, replace the valve. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 8:08 AM Subject: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question > What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and > settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a > combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how > much > one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of > minutes with or without a load on it? > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.6/1317 - Release Date: 3/7/2008 > 8:15 AM From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Mar 7 09:23:37 2008 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 11:23:37 EST Subject: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question Message-ID: In a message dated 3/7/2008 9:09:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how much one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of minutes with or without a load on it? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) Bob, You don't mention the age of the jack, but typically it's fluid leaking past a piston seal, or more likely, a check ball / valve seat is worn and allows fluid to flow when and where it shouldn't. There can also be an internal crack in a body or housing that allows an unwanted fluid path as well. The answer, generally speaking, is fluid is flowing where it shouldn't be. It's lazy and takes the path of least resistance, like some of my neighbors. You could also have an aeration issue caused by improper fluid level in the reservoir. I am in industrial fluid power and am not aware of allowable drift standards. Drifts could be catastrophic, depends on the application. I would be interested in hearing more, offline. Thanks. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Mar 7 11:26:59 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 13:26:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c88080$d81a7180$210110ac@bobspc> The jack that drifts or leaks down is my old one that I'm using to put the diff back in (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffCarrier.htm) My main jack is an Aluminum one by Arcan and it carries the statement: In accordance with ASME PALD Standard section 10-4.1.2 Load Sustaining Test: A load not less then the rated capacity shall not lower more then 1/8" in the first minute nor a total of .1875" in 10 minutes. Pretty tight tolerances as I have trouble even measuring 1/8" ;-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ________________________________ From: Vsnively at aol.com [mailto:Vsnively at aol.com] Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 11:24 AM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question In a message dated 3/7/2008 9:09:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how much one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of minutes with or without a load on it? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vsnively at aol.com Bob, You don't mention the age of the jack, but typically it's fluid leaking past a piston seal, or more likely, a check ball / valve seat is worn and allows fluid to flow when and where it shouldn't. There can also be an internal crack in a body or housing that allows an unwanted fluid path as well. The answer, generally speaking, is fluid is flowing where it shouldn't be. It's lazy and takes the path of least resistance, like some of my neighbors. You could also have an aeration issue caused by improper fluid level in the reservoir. I am in industrial fluid power and am not aware of allowable drift standards. Drifts could be catastrophic, depends on the application. I would be interested in hearing more, offline. Thanks. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC ________________________________ It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. From TR6UO at aol.com Fri Mar 7 12:25:09 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 14:25:09 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] [Fot] Racing Goodies for Sale Message-ID: . . . and a moment of silence for "the horse". **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From PeterSchop at aol.com Fri Mar 7 13:00:15 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 15:00:15 EST Subject: [6pack] red rubber grease Message-ID: I will be rebuilding my master cylinder and calipers soon on my six and I am looking for a rubber grease to go on the seals. The tech article from the Buckeye TR site recommends using red rubber grease. I have found that the Lotus Parts people have 500 grams for $39. That is a little more than I need. When I googled it, I came up with sites in the UK and New Zealand. I also found at AllRaceOil.com some PBR Rubber Grease for $7.95 for a 17.5 gm tube. Is this the same stuff? Does anyone know of a supplier of red rubber grease or have any recommendations of what I should use for the rebuild on my M/C? Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 CC 26418L **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Mar 7 13:33:06 2008 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 15:33:06 EST Subject: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question Message-ID: In a message dated 3/7/2008 1:28:01 PM Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: The jack that drifts or leaks down is my old one that I'm using to put the diff back in (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffCarrier.htm) My main jack is an Aluminum one by Arcan and it carries the statement: In accordance with ASME PALD Standard section 10-4.1.2 Load Sustaining Test: A load not less then the rated capacity shall not lower more then 1/8" in the first minute nor a total of .1875" in 10 minutes. Pretty tight tolerances as I have trouble even measuring 1/8" ;-) Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ________________________________ From: Vsnively at aol.com [mailto:Vsnively at aol.com] Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 11:24 AM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Hydraulic Jack Question In a message dated 3/7/2008 9:09:09 AM Eastern Standard Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: What causes a jack or even an engine crane to stop holding a position and settle back down after a while? Is it low fluid or a bad gasket or a combination of things? I know that there's an industry standard for how much one can drop over an x period of time. But I'm talking about a matter of minutes with or without a load on it? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vsnively at aol.com Bob, You don't mention the age of the jack, but typically it's fluid leaking past a piston seal, or more likely, a check ball / valve seat is worn and allows fluid to flow when and where it shouldn't. There can also be an internal crack in a body or housing that allows an unwanted fluid path as well. The answer, generally speaking, is fluid is flowing where it shouldn't be. It's lazy and takes the path of least resistance, like some of my neighbors. You could also have an aeration issue caused by improper fluid level in the reservoir. I am in industrial fluid power and am not aware of allowable drift standards. Drifts could be catastrophic, depends on the application. I would be interested in hearing more, offline. Thanks. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC ________________________________ It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance. _http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001_ (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) Bob, Thanks for the enlightenment. I suppose everything has a tolerance, it's a little unsettling knowing that PALDs have allowable drop. At least there is an industry standard. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From trsix74 at comcast.net Fri Mar 7 13:42:20 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 15:42:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] red rubber grease In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c88093$c0001d80$6601a8c0@Robert> If I remember right, it comes with the rebuild kits. If not let me know I have a pack or two, enough to do the job. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Mar 7 15:35:31 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 22:35:31 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Sun visor concerns Message-ID: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Friends, I'm posting to three lists because this has to be a common Triumph problem with the older car. I've been out today in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan UK fundraising Spitfire for a photoshoot. Lovely sunny day, though not all that warm, but with the tonneau in place, the heater blower doing its (not very impressive) best, it was side-windows down, a zipped up fleece and a red wool hat. Car went superbly and no complaints there at all - except for one. Has anyone worked out a way of how to re-tension the sun visor to stop it flip-flopping about its screen monted stay? Everything's OK up to about 75 - and sometimes 85 - but I am getting rather tired of it suddenly plunging down and completely obscuring my forward vision. Currently the car isn't fitted with a self-draining driving seat but if another truck suddenly pulls out in front of me with the sun visor down, I may have to investigate the engineering possibilities.......... Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From alwinbj at msn.com Fri Mar 7 15:36:18 2008 From: alwinbj at msn.com (Brian) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 16:36:18 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Cylinder Block Identification In-Reply-To: <000601c88093$c0001d80$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: Dear Listers: I would like to submit a mystery for discussion. I'm doing a top-end rebuild in chase of a leaky intake valve on my 72 TR6 (CC79085). When I pulled the head, I noticed that it has a recessed-bore block type. My car was built in Jan 1972, and I thought the recessed-bore blocks appeared after 1972. My understanding is that my car has the original engine. The stamping on the deck boss is 7717 U. The block was decked when the engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago, so perhaps the prefix is machined off. The numbers 7717 U itself must yield some clues. When were recessed-bore blocks introduced? Thank you, Brian J Alwin Minnesnowta From jguyot1 at maine.rr.com Fri Mar 7 15:48:51 2008 From: jguyot1 at maine.rr.com (Jerry Guyot) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 17:48:51 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Sun visor concerns References: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <012701c880a5$6a4c3ec0$6501a8c0@JerrySony> Had that problem on a Spitfire and somebody on that list told me to remove the visor from the rod and "Bend" the rod just a little bit and then re-insert the visor back onto the rod. This creates friction between the "Rod" and the "Visor" This takes a little bit of "Trial & Error"...... But it worked for me..... No more floppy Visor :-) Jerry ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Macartney" To: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; ; Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 5:35 PM Subject: [6pack] Sun visor concerns Friends, I'm posting to three lists because this has to be a common Triumph problem with the older car. I've been out today in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan UK fundraising Spitfire for a photoshoot. Lovely sunny day, though not all that warm, but with the tonneau in place, the heater blower doing its (not very impressive) best, it was side-windows down, a zipped up fleece and a red wool hat. Car went superbly and no complaints there at all - except for one. Has anyone worked out a way of how to re-tension the sun visor to stop it flip-flopping about its screen monted stay? Everything's OK up to about 75 - and sometimes 85 - but I am getting rather tired of it suddenly plunging down and completely obscuring my forward vision. Currently the car isn't fitted with a self-draining driving seat but if another truck suddenly pulls out in front of me with the sun visor down, I may have to investigate the engineering possibilities.......... Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jguyot1 at maine.rr.com From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com Fri Mar 7 16:08:54 2008 From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 15:08:54 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Tuning concerns for >5000' Message-ID: <285507.95915.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Folks, I've been a lurker for more than 2 years, having tragically lost my previous '6 in a divorce. I am, however, very happy to report acquisition of a much nicer one- a '75 BRG '6 that has always lived on the east coast. I'd appreciate any tips on tuning considerations for the relocation to Denver- arriving via transport later this month. Thanks, and...so very glad to be back in this lucky circle of owners! Pete From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Mar 7 17:32:09 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 00:32:09 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Cylinder Block Identification In-Reply-To: <000001c880a3$a95d0790$0b01a8c0@grace> References: <000601c88093$c0001d80$6601a8c0@Robert> <000001c880a3$a95d0790$0b01a8c0@grace> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B6FE4800446@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> According to the Moss web site the recessed bores came in starting with 1972, at least that's how I interpret their head gasket listing: 694-540 $17.95 GASKET, cylinder head TR250, TR6 thru 1971 694-640 $21.95 GASKET, cylinder head TR6 1972-'76 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 5:36 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Cylinder Block Identification Dear Listers: I would like to submit a mystery for discussion. I'm doing a top-end rebuild in chase of a leaky intake valve on my 72 TR6 (CC79085). When I pulled the head, I noticed that it has a recessed-bore block type. My car was built in Jan 1972, and I thought the recessed-bore blocks appeared after 1972. My understanding is that my car has the original engine. The stamping on the deck boss is 7717 U. The block was decked when the engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago, so perhaps the prefix is machined off. The numbers 7717 U itself must yield some clues. When were recessed-bore blocks introduced? Thank you, Brian J Alwin Minnesnowta From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Mar 7 17:36:04 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 19:36:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Sun visor concerns In-Reply-To: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <082301c880a3$8db541b0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <001c01c880b4$67055350$210110ac@bobspc> John, If it's like a TR6, pull the visor off of the rod and give the rod a very very very slight bend. I tried the pinching technique but it didn't last long for me. The bent rod has held my visors in place for over 10 years now. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 5:36 PM To: 6-Pack; triumphs at autox.team.net; spitfires at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Sun visor concerns Friends, I'm posting to three lists because this has to be a common Triumph problem with the older car. I've been out today in the Triumph Trans-AmeriCan UK fundraising Spitfire for a photoshoot. Lovely sunny day, though not all that warm, but with the tonneau in place, the heater blower doing its (not very impressive) best, it was side-windows down, a zipped up fleece and a red wool hat. Car went superbly and no complaints there at all - except for one. Has anyone worked out a way of how to re-tension the sun visor to stop it flip-flopping about its screen monted stay? Everything's OK up to about 75 - and sometimes 85 - but I am getting rather tired of it suddenly plunging down and completely obscuring my forward vision. Currently the car isn't fitted with a self-draining driving seat but if another truck suddenly pulls out in front of me with the sun visor down, I may have to investigate the engineering possibilities.......... Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Mar 7 23:40:00 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 7 Mar 2008 22:40:00 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Tuning concerns for >5000' In-Reply-To: Pete Kronberg 's message of Fri, 7 Mar 2008 15:08:54 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <26744-47D234C0-4163@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Pete---There are listers who live in the Denver area that can speak from their daily experience. However, I did have a mountain cabin that was even higher, at 6,000 ft. elev. that I visited regularly for 19 years with my TR6. You will notice that less oxygen will drop power and engine speed. Because this was a temporary condition, the only thing I did was to pull the CHOKE knob out just far enough to make the engine speed up at idle. You may want to screw down the fast idle screws to get the idle speed you desire. Easy. My air/fuel monitor showed no worthwhile change in the mix due to this elevation. This is one of the advantages of the CD carburetor. Enjoy the country, the car, and your new-found freedom! Dick From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com(Pete Kronberg) Folks, I've been a lurker for more than 2 years, having tragically lost my previous '6 in a divorce. I am, however, very happy to report acquisition of a much nicer one- a '75 BRG '6 that has always lived on the east coast. I'd appreciate any tips on tuning considerations for the relocation to Denver- arriving via transport later this month. Thanks, and...so very glad to be back in this lucky circle of owners! Pete ______________________________________ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Mar 8 07:32:31 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 09:32:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage Message-ID: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> One of the Hemmings editors had his engine seize and is blaming it on using synthetic oil in an engine that had previously only burned regular oil. The car had 73,000 miles.....mostly all short trip miles. He said "The cylinder head was covered, not in sludge but with hardened, baked oil. Worse was the lifter valley area below the intake, as shown in the photo. According to several sources, the synthetic oil eventually broke up the old, hardened deposits (thanks to the original owner's short-trip driving style), which then clogged all the oil galleys and oil pump, which then ruined the bearings." Read it all here (http://tinyurl.com/2l7f46) and double click the picture of the head.....it really is pretty ugly what happened. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From grant at bowtie6.com Sat Mar 8 07:47:02 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 09:47:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <001001c8812b$461e3220$d25a9660$@com> And of course, synthetic oil will be blamed. It is not the fault of the oil. On the contrary this goes to prove that regular oil infrequently changed and driven for short distances will bake on and create crud. I am a firm believer in synthetics - I use Mobil1 exclusively. I own several cars, some of them high mileage that have had no problems whatsoever and have seen other engines taken apart that had used Mobil1 exclusively. The innards were perfectly clean even with high mileage. This debate I guess can take the same flavor that the whole brake fluid debate takes. There are some who hate it and others who don't. I for one, don't use regular oil and believe in the qualities of Mobil1. I think that the article blaming synthetics for the engine failure is a little tunnel vision. I subscribe to several Hemmings publications and read the articles but I disagree with some of the views expressed. This is one of them. Your mileage may vary... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sat Mar 8 08:00:54 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 08:00:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage Message-ID: <47D2AC64@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From "Joseph Grant" ===== >And of course, synthetic oil will be blamed. > >It is not the fault of the oil. I agree with Joe here. The oil might have been the 'agent of change' but the fault lies more with the driving/maintenance style, expecting the synthetic oil to be magical cure-all and making an uninformed decision. If the journalist is writing from the standpoint that it is the oil at fault, then he is doing his readers a great dis-service by not educating them on proper servicing and understanding of the differences between oils. With an article like that, a teaching article, they might keep someone else from making the same mistake. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sat Mar 8 08:09:12 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 08:09:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage Message-ID: <47D2AF9A@webmail.colostate.edu> Okay, so I just read the short article. He doesn't really "blame" the synthetic oil. In the first sentence he states how you should not convert an old engine to synthetic without flushing the engine of old oil deposits. He blames the breakdown on the driving habits and maintenance schedule more than the oil. While the synthetic may have broken up the deposits, it didn't put them there. At least that is how I read it. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sat Mar 8 08:16:24 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 08:16:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Cylinder Block Identification Message-ID: <47D2B2AB@webmail.colostate.edu> When the block was decked, they may have cut the recesses for the later style gasket. Shawn >===== Original Message From "Foster, Stan" ===== >According to the Moss web site the recessed bores came in starting with 1972, >at least that's how I interpret their head gasket listing: > >694-540 $17.95 GASKET, cylinder head TR250, TR6 >thru 1971 >694-640 $21.95 GASKET, cylinder head TR6 1972-'76 > > > >-----Original Message----- >From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net >[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Brian >Sent: Friday, March 07, 2008 5:36 PM >To: 6pack at autox.team.net >Subject: [6pack] Cylinder Block Identification > >Dear Listers: > >I would like to submit a mystery for discussion. I'm doing a top-end rebuild >in chase of a leaky intake valve on my 72 TR6 (CC79085). > >When I pulled the head, I noticed that it has a recessed-bore block type. >My car was built in Jan 1972, and I thought the recessed-bore blocks >appeared after 1972. My understanding is that my car has the original >engine. The stamping on the deck boss is 7717 U. The block was decked when >the engine was rebuilt a couple of years ago, so perhaps the prefix is >machined off. The numbers 7717 U itself must yield some clues. > >When were recessed-bore blocks introduced? > >Thank you, > >Brian J Alwin >Minnesnowta From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Mar 8 08:43:02 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 10:43:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: <001001c8812b$461e3220$d25a9660$@com> References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> <001001c8812b$461e3220$d25a9660$@com> Message-ID: <000401c88133$1a1491d0$210110ac@bobspc> BTW..........I have no opinion one way or the other about the use of synthetics. I've used it in my "modern" cars but haven't used it in the TR6. I just thought the pictures of the head were pretty cool. Talk about gunk. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Joseph Grant [mailto:grant at bowtie6.com] Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 9:47 AM To: 'Bob Danielson'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' Subject: RE: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage And of course, synthetic oil will be blamed. It is not the fault of the oil. On the contrary this goes to prove that regular oil infrequently changed and driven for short distances will bake on and create crud. I am a firm believer in synthetics - I use Mobil1 exclusively. I own several cars, some of them high mileage that have had no problems whatsoever and have seen other engines taken apart that had used Mobil1 exclusively. The innards were perfectly clean even with high mileage. This debate I guess can take the same flavor that the whole brake fluid debate takes. There are some who hate it and others who don't. I for one, don't use regular oil and believe in the qualities of Mobil1. I think that the article blaming synthetics for the engine failure is a little tunnel vision. I subscribe to several Hemmings publications and read the articles but I disagree with some of the views expressed. This is one of them. Your mileage may vary... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sat Mar 8 08:44:23 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 08:44:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Tuning concerns for >5000' Message-ID: <47D2C801@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From Pete Kronberg ===== >Folks, > >I've been a lurker for more than 2 years, having >tragically lost my previous '6 in a divorce. I am, >however, very happy to report acquisition of a much >nicer one- a '75 BRG '6 that has always lived on the >east coast. > >I'd appreciate any tips on tuning considerations for >the relocation to Denver- arriving via transport later >this month. > >Thanks, and...so very glad to be back in this lucky >circle of owners! > >Pete Hi Pete, What part of Denver are you in and how long have you been in Colorado? The Rocky Mountain Triumph Club [ http://www.rockymountaintr.org/ ]is Denver based and a very active and friendly club. If you live more on the north side your more than welcome to visit the British Motoring Club of Northern Colorado [ http://clubs.hemmings.com/clubsites/BMCNC/ ]. One 'rule of thumb' at this altitude is to advance the timing about 5 degrees and re-tune your carburettor (resetting the idle and mixture with the different timing). The CD style of carburettor actually handles the change in altitudes extremely well. Even better than early electronic fuel injection. DCOE's really struggle in this environment on street cars because of the drastic altitude changes that can happen in a short amount of time. Further changes in altitude will produce noticeable, though not drastic, power loss but the car will still be very drive-able. From central Denver you could be at over 14,000 feet in just over an hour if you wanted to be. More realistically would be altitude changes from 4,500 feet to 8,000 feet on a typical fun drive through the front range. With short bursts over 9,000 feet. If you need it, I can also recommend a range of LBC specific shops that can also help you out. I canalso recommend some wonderful drives when the time comes. Enjoy! Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sat Mar 8 10:04:16 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 12:04:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 6-Pack Online Payment Message-ID: <62220DF4-9CA4-453A-A5C9-12FDFF77425E@mindspring.com> Good afternoon 6-Packers, I thought I would reiterate a note posted on the 6-Pack website. Currently the online payment feature on the 6-Pack website is AWOL. No purchases can be made online. While we have diligently attempted to fix the error we have been unsuccessful. Alan, our webmaster has put in many hours to rectify the situation without positive results. We have decided to not put any more hours into fixing this issue. The reason for not investing more time in this convenient function is due to the major overhaul of the entire website that is currently going on behind the scenes. This will take several weeks to complete, but the end result will be a much more reliable site for our members. Alan will share with everyone more on this later, but I wanted to let those of you who have recently or need to make online purchases that the payment will need to be either via check or directly via PayPal. Also, I was out of town for much of this past week so there are some orders & enquiries that I have not addressed. I will do my best to get to these with the next 24-48 hours. If you have any questions or concerns then please feel free to shoot me and email and I will do my best to answer it promptly and accurately. And for those of you undergoing this last blast of winter (over a foot huh Todd?) just take heart that spring is just around the corner. And if it will still be a little chilly in your neck of the woods and you wish to warm up then join myself and more than a few 6-Packers at the annual Walter Mitty Races at Road Atlanta. The races run May 1st through the 4th. Cheers, Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Sat Mar 8 10:10:33 2008 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 12:10:33 EST Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage Message-ID: I would certainly agree with this assessment. IF you are going to switch oil in an engine IMHO you should ALWAYS run an engine flush with a new filter at least once & maybe twice for good measure. Then switch to your new oil. There has been much debate of late on the various properties of oil for our cars. Most of which really only applies to the break in period of a newly rebuilt motor but it doesn't hurt to flush or clean you engine now and then regardless of what you are using. There is NO substitute for good maintenance. Cheers, Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Mar 8 10:16:48 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 12:16:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Oil Gallery Plugs Message-ID: <49f668fe0803080916u42f97dd0xf0808309f81878d3@mail.gmail.com> Sure don't want these to leak once I get the motor back in, and these allen wrenches don't give much torque. Suggestions for a lubricant/sealant - teflon tape? Hylomar? Plain old grease? John North From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Mar 8 12:17:14 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 14:17:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Torque Message-ID: <000001c88151$0630ba90$210110ac@bobspc> I'm putting the flywheel back on and in checking the torque wrench settings Hanes says 42 - 46 while Bentley, in one place says 75 and in another they say 95. That's quite a range. Which do you use? And what are the tricks to keeping everything from turning while you torque it down? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Mar 8 13:20:18 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 12:20:18 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Torque In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Sat, 8 Mar 2008 14:17:14 -0500 Message-ID: <21062-47D2F502-1513@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Bob D.---Normal driving (short of red line) and these bolts should stay put with 75 lb. of torque. I use (8) special bolts and 80 lb. of torque plus Blue Loctite, just because... I have a { shaped bracket to lock a couple of ring gear teeth to the engine backplate when removing or installing the bolts. Dick From: Bob D. I'm putting the flywheel back on and in checking the torque wrench settings Hanes says 42 - 46 while Bentley, in one place says 75 and in another they say 95. That's quite a range. Which do you use? And what are the tricks to keeping everything from turning while you torque it down? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ______________________________________ From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Mar 8 14:56:19 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 16:56:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Looking for Colin Grimes OR Late TR6 Head Wanted (slightly off topic) Message-ID: <00a301c88167$3e133580$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Has anyone heard from Colin Grimes recently? I was hoping to get a late TR6 head off him but I think he must still be touring the UK, and I'm now close to the point where I need the head. Does anyone have a late head (EGR style) that they are willing to part with (I'll collect if you're in the MI, OH or IN area, or will pay postage if not). I'd agreed to pay Colin $90 (he's Canadian so that might be $100US by now!). Thanks, ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sat Mar 8 18:48:04 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:48:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: <002901c88185$9090a090$016a33d8@CPQ12949640186> References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> <002901c88185$9090a090$016a33d8@CPQ12949640186> Message-ID: <2BADA15A-8991-4515-8D9E-D809F401CB56@mindspring.com> A friend of mine's father became a Jiffy Lube franchisee after his wife blew the engine in her Lincoln by not changing the oil for the first 40k miles. Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Mar 8 19:00:19 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 20:00:19 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc><002901c88185$9090a090$016a33d8@CPQ12949640186> <2BADA15A-8991-4515-8D9E-D809F401CB56@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <001101c88189$77075110$800101df@garage.local> heard a story today about a guy calling on a used car. the person said it was a good, reliable car, and hadn't needed an oil change for 100,000 miles . . . ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com> To: "Nolan" Cc: ; "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 7:48 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage >A friend of mine's father became a Jiffy Lube franchisee after his > wife blew the engine in her Lincoln by not changing the oil for the > first 40k miles. > > > Ashford Little > GTA Director > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > '70 TR6 From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Sat Mar 8 21:28:58 2008 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Sat, 8 Mar 2008 23:28:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: What you all are describing is the same as from the days of high-detergent vs. non-detergent oils. If you have been running the non-detergent variety, and then change to the high-detergent type, you run the risk of stirring up the old sediments and hardened coatings left from the non-detergent type. You face the potential problems as all have been mentioning. I remember helping a friend with an old car (American, not a British sports car) that he wanted to revive. We dropped the oil pan, and the sludge was 1/8th to 1/4 inch thick. The walls inside the lower part of the engine case had all this hardened deposits that were flaking off, into the oil. There was no choice but to fully disassemble the engine and tank it. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of Bob Danielson Sent: Sat 3/8/2008 9:32 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6-Pack' Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage One of the Hemmings editors had his engine seize and is blaming it on using synthetic oil in an engine that had previously only burned regular oil. The car had 73,000 miles.....mostly all short trip miles. He said "The cylinder head was covered, not in sludge but with hardened, baked oil. Worse was the lifter valley area below the intake, as shown in the photo. According to several sources, the synthetic oil eventually broke up the old, hardened deposits (thanks to the original owner's short-trip driving style), which then clogged all the oil galleys and oil pump, which then ruined the bearings." Read it all here (http://tinyurl.com/2l7f46) and double click the picture of the head.....it really is pretty ugly what happened. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From bratt at sasktel.net Sat Mar 8 22:33:36 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Sat, 08 Mar 2008 23:33:36 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000a01c881a7$1fb953e0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> James: A local mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable cars by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a few hundred miles. The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the accumulated crud and sludge. I figured that would be pretty had on the bearings and cylinder walls. Years ago my neighbor used diesel fuel to wash out the crud that was inside his engine. He used oil from his heating tank, (which also was used to fuel his Dad's Mercedes). He warmed up the engine, drained the engine oil, but left the filter, filled the sump with Diesel fuel, and ran the car for about 20 minutes, drained the very dirty diesel, changed the oil filter and filled the sump with fresh oil. No problem. When I bought a used Dodge, which had very dirty oil in it, I changed the oil, but it turned real dirty in just a few days use. So I did almost the same thing as my friend had done. The difference was I put in one quart of 10W30 oil and three quarts of Diesel, and ran the engine at idle for about 15 minutes, then drained the dirty oil, changed the filter and filled it with oil. The new oil stayed clean for a long time, like it should. I drove the car thousands of miles after that with no problems. I once knew a guy who's company gave him a bottom of the line Pontiac, with rubber floor mats, no carpets, plastic bench seat, six cylinder, automatic. He drove it for three years without changing the oil, just to get back at the company for giving hime the cheapest car they could buy. It is a common practice here in Saskatchewan to mix one quart of synthetic oil into regular oil during winter. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ruffner, James A *HS" To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, March 08, 2008 10:28 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage From DLylis at aol.com Sun Mar 9 05:18:58 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 08:18:58 EDT Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage Message-ID: In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, bratt at sasktel.net writes: A local mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable cars by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a few hundred miles. The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the accumulated crud and sludge. I figured that would be pretty had on the bearings and cylinder walls. What say the list? Lots of LBC owners have switched to Shell Rotella for the ZDDP. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From grant at bowtie6.com Sun Mar 9 05:35:57 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 08:35:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: <000a01c881a7$1fb953e0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> References: <000301c88129$400598d0$210110ac@bobspc> <000a01c881a7$1fb953e0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <000001c881e2$2097a420$61c6ec60$@com> LOL... A good friend of mine used to manage the motor pool at a very large international corporation here where I live. He used to tell us about a young sales dude that was given a vehicle to do his job with. The car this particular chap had developed a small problem and was taken in for repairs. The dealer refused to cover the car under warranty due to poor maintenance. They did an audit on the car and sure enough after many thousands of miles it was discovered the car had not been properly maintained (including no oil changes). My friend was instrumental in firing the young sales dude. According to my buddy, he said the young sales dude claimed he did not know you had to change oil in a car. Go figure. Ignorance is bliss, but in this case it costed this guy's job. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Mar 9 09:01:40 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 08:01:40 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage, Oil is killing our cars! article References: Message-ID: <002e01c881fe$dd29a770$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> This subject was kicked around about 6 months ago. Some ZDDP information and using diesel engine rated oil. http://www.svmgcc.org/tech_tips/oil_is_killing.htm Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; ; <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, March 09, 2008 4:18 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage > In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > bratt at sasktel.net writes: > > A local mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable > cars by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a > few hundred miles. The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the > accumulated crud and sludge. I figured that would be pretty had on the > bearings and cylinder walls. > > > > What say the list? Lots of LBC owners have switched to Shell Rotella for > the ZDDP. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & > Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From motrv8d at hotmail.com Sun Mar 9 07:21:18 2008 From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:21:18 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I once bought a 85 Olds Cutlass with the Oldsmobile 307 that had 85K miles on it, and the valve covers were leaking. I took the valve covers off to replace the gaskets, and it was literally like taking the mold off of jello. The rockers were buried in this mess. A very good friend of mine, a long time mechanic, advised I not do ANYTHING, but put the covers back on, and change the oil every 500 miles until the engine was clean, looking down into the oil fill hole in the valve cover. After 8 oil changes, I took the valve covers back off, and the engine was spotless!!! I used Havoline 30W in doing this. I drove that car until it had right at 150k miles, and it was still running good. Sold it to someone here locally, and saw the car often for several years after that.> From: DLylis at aol.com> Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 08:18:58 -0400> To: bratt at sasktel.net; JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu; 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage> > In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > bratt at sasktel.net writes:> > A local mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable > cars by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a > few hundred miles. The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the > accumulated crud and sludge. I figured that would be pretty had on the > bearings and cylinder walls.> > > > What say the list? Lots of LBC owners have switched to Shell Rotella for > the ZDDP.> > David Lylis> 69 TR6 CC26160L> 60 TR3A TS74461LO> > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & > Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> > You are subscribed as motrv8d at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 9 09:16:45 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 11:16:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] body off frame References: Message-ID: <002d01c88200$fa2aa9d0$800101df@garage.local> hi, all. i need to remove the body from the frame (69 TR6) to do some rust repair. i've been looking for instructions like on the Buckeye Triumphs site with no luck. any help would be appreciated. if there are no good articles, with your help i'll create one and post it. thanks. From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Sun Mar 9 09:45:56 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 09:45:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] body off frame In-Reply-To: <002d01c88200$fa2aa9d0$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <299037.59140.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Check out this thread on the 6-pack website. There are some good photos of one approach. Essentially, it's a matter of undoing a bunch of bolts and a few odd hoses & brake lines. Look the car over...it'll be obvious http://www.6-pack.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&t=4881#30115 It's interesting that many of the folks that participate on this e-mail discussion list, do NOT post on the website & vise versa?? Just an observation Cheers, Todd --- Oliver wrote: > hi, all. > > i need to remove the body from the frame (69 TR6) to > do some rust repair. > > i've been looking for instructions like on the > Buckeye Triumphs site with no > luck. > > any help would be appreciated. if there are no good > articles, with your > help i'll create one and post it. > > thanks. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Mar 9 11:12:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 09 Mar 2008 12:12:33 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] $4,100 collected so far - need updates In-Reply-To: <001601c87a8a$afb55030$800101df@garage.local> References: <001601c87a8a$afb55030$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <47D42891.2000203@tscusa.org> Oliver wrote: > http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/ > > thank you to all of you! I think there's a Stag in JonMac's future . . . > > Hi David, How is the Stag Restoration pledge collection coming along?? It should be over the $4100 from a few weeks ago (unless your Honda is running better! ;-) ) The Stag is being picked up today by the ISOA crew in Indianapolis, 9 March 2008, provided of course they are not completely snowed in from the winter storms. Also, we have a potential donor for the 4 speed OD setup out of New Mexico, in fact, a whole car provided it can get from Edgewood NM to Hampshire Illinois. There are a few people stepping up to leap frog this parts car to Illinois. If interested, contact David Graham, TSC USA Central Atlantic Region Director at grahamda at charter.net thanks! -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA 2009 North American Coordination Team Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Sun Mar 9 11:14:33 2008 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:14:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] body off frame References: <002d01c88200$fa2aa9d0$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <001701c88211$6e018f30$6101a8c0@phoenix> Hi Oliver, Many body bolts should come out with little hassle. An air impact wrench is a big help if available but not at all necessary. For those bolts that are a bit stubborn apply a generous spray of penetrant then wait a day or so before trying again. It seems that the spare tire hook, the rear fender supports from the chassis and floor bolts are the most common problem areas for rusted body bolts. With the engine and tranny removed to lower the clearance and body properly braced the body can be lifted off the chassis with two (and preferably three) strong individuals. Good luck! Greg CD6250L ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oliver" > hi, all. > > i need to remove the body from the frame (69 TR6) to do some rust repair. > > i've been looking for instructions like on the Buckeye Triumphs site with > no > luck. > > any help would be appreciated. if there are no good articles, with your > help i'll create one and post it. > > thanks. > _______________________________________________ From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Mar 9 11:50:28 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 14:50:28 EDT Subject: [6pack] body off frame Message-ID: Generous application of heat is typically a success, for me, on fasteners. In extreme cases, like removing hubs from rear axles, I use a combination heat and cold water quench...multiple times, if necessary. Works for replacing tapered fitments on ball joints, too. My guess is that the expansion and contraction breaks the bond between the two surfaces. JOE A > Hi Oliver, > > Many body bolts should come out with little hassle. An air impact wrench is > a big help if available but not at all necessary. For those bolts that are > a bit stubborn apply a generous spray of penetrant then wait a day or so > before trying again. It seems that the spare tire hook, the rear fender > supports from the chassis and floor bolts are the most common problem areas > for rusted body bolts. > > With the engine and tranny removed to lower the clearance and body properly > braced the body can be lifted off the chassis with two (and preferably > three) strong individuals. > > Good luck! > > Greg > CD6250L > From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 9 20:38:58 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Sun, 9 Mar 2008 20:38:58 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Some car show pics Message-ID: <745747.425.qm@web82608.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey all, Here's some pictures of the weekly Cars and Coffee car show in Irvine, CA. This week was featuring british cars. So I snapped some pictures. I got there late, so I think I missed some of the Triumphs. Sorry I missed you Richard if you were there with your 'six. http://picasaweb.google.com/kendalll/CarsAndCoffee2008_03_08?authkey=PEF8VJ6JmVw Luckily, some guy keeps a blog of the shows, and knows how to use an awesome camera http://www.autoworksphoto.com/Automotive%20Events/265910 Kendall From dncullig at us.ibm.com Mon Mar 10 06:50:27 2008 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:50:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP and Oil reformulation Message-ID: With all this talk of oil, I thought I'd forward this note I saw on the Spridgets list a few weeks ago... Dennis Culligan / Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U ************************************************************************* Reformulation of 20W50 Racing Oil Lubestream Direct Connect February 22, 2008 Dear ConocoPhillips Lubricants Marketer, As part of our ongoing commitment to identify and provide you, our valued Marketers, with products, programs and tools to help you grow your business, we are pleased to announce that 76 High Performance Motor Oil SAE 20W-50, Kendall GT-1. High Performance Motor Oil SAE 20W-50 and Phillips TropArtic. Racing Motor Oil 20W-50 will be reformulated. The reformulated oils will contain a boosted level of zinc dialkyldithiophosphate (ZDDP) in order to offer enhanced wear protection and oxidation resistance for use in the most demanding applications. The new formulations will be in production in all plants by March 1. We are confident that the enhanced formulation will address concerns within the industry about current ILSAC GF-4 and API SM engine oils and whether they contain sufficient levels of ZDDP to protect older engines, especially high-performance engines with flat-tappet camshafts. The newly reformulated SAE 20W-50 viscosity grades of 76 High Performance Motor Oil, Kendall GT-1. High Performance Motor Oil and Phillips TropArtic. Racing Motor Oil will contain approximately 1200 ppm zinc. Higher levels of ZDDP, which provide antiwear/antiscuff protection as well as oxidation inhibition, can help protect these new camshafts during the critical break-in period. The reformulated SAE 20W-50 viscosity grades will continue to provide excellent protection in gasoline-fueled competition engines, turbocharged engines, and high-performance street engines, including those with flat-tappet camshafts. Please be sure to share this exciting reformulation announcement with your customers who service high-performance racing engines and stay tuned for announcements about the availability of this reformulated product. Please contact your MSR with any questions. Sincerely, Phil Sontag Director of Marketing, Automotive Lubricants _______________________________________________ From FSZEK at aol.com Mon Mar 10 06:58:36 2008 From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 09:58:36 EDT Subject: [6pack] 6Pack Magazine Message-ID: My filing system has failed me. What is the latest Magazine/Newsletter Volume and Issue number,and when did it come in the mail ? Thanks, Frank **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 10 08:00:34 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 08:00:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] 6Pack Magazine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <544695.75871.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi Frank, I believe the latest would be XXVII issue 1. The TRials issue just went out this past Friday. Always remember, your membership is based upon NUMBER OF ISSUES and not calendar year. And since we have the subject of newsletter, Please get me articles. Can't really put something out without articles. While I will sometimes write an article, I don't feel that it's up to me to provide content every issue. I don't have time to do that. I'm trying to restore a car and those of you that have done that can imagine how much time that takes. Rant & rave over.... We take pride in putting out a quality Newsletter. Let's keep it that way Cheers, Todd Bermudez 6-PACK Editor cd198l (under construction...still) --- FSZEK at aol.com wrote: > My filing system has failed me. What is the latest > Magazine/Newsletter > Volume and Issue number,and when did it come in the > mail ? > Thanks, > Frank > > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and > advice on AOL Money & > Finance. > (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Mon Mar 10 08:03:34 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 08:03:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] 6Pack Magazine In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <8581.69648.qm@web43139.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi Frank, I believe the latest would be XXVII issue 1. The TRials issue just went out this past Friday. Always remember, your membership is based upon NUMBER OF ISSUES and not calendar year. And since we have the subject of newsletter, Please get me articles. Can't really put something out without articles. While I will sometimes write an article, I don't feel that it's up to me to provide content every issue. I don't have time to do that. I'm trying to restore a car and those of you that have done that can imagine how much time that takes. Rant & rave over.... We take pride in putting out a quality Newsletter. Let's keep it that way Cheers, Todd Bermudez 6-PACK Editor cd198l (under construction...still) --- FSZEK at aol.com wrote: > My filing system has failed me. What is the latest > Magazine/Newsletter > Volume and Issue number,and when did it come in the > mail ? > Thanks, > Frank > > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and > advice on AOL Money & > Finance. > (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Mar 10 08:18:59 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:18:59 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Oil Gallery Plugs In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803080916u42f97dd0xf0808309f81878d3@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803080916u42f97dd0xf0808309f81878d3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: On Sat, 8 Mar 2008, John North wrote: > Sure don't want these to leak once I get the motor back in, and these > allen wrenches don't give much torque. Suggestions for a > lubricant/sealant - teflon tape? Hylomar? Plain old grease? The pipe thread plugs should be sealed with either a sealant or epoxy. You want something to keep 'em from weeping... > John North regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Mar 10 08:52:57 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:52:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 DLylis at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > bratt at sasktel.net writes: > > A local mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable > cars by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a > few hundred miles. The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the > accumulated crud and sludge. I figured that would be pretty had on the > bearings and cylinder walls. > > > > What say the list? Lots of LBC owners have switched to Shell Rotella for > the ZDDP. Look carefully at the label. Rotella changed recently to a new spec, I think it's CL-4 or something like that. They have reduced the ZDDP in the Rotella too. On the plus side, several oil companies have recently indicated that they will release motor oil products for gasoline engines that have higher levels of ZDDP - these will be marketied as racing oils... If you can't wait, there's good products out there already. Most cater to the racing community (Like RedLine, Valvoline Racing and Brad Penn and others) > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Mar 10 08:59:38 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 15:59:38 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I believe that Catrol HD 30 still ZDDP Lou -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 11:52:57 To:DLylis at aol.com Cc:JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage On Sun, 9 Mar 2008 DLylis at aol.com wrote: > In a message dated 3/9/2008 12:34:07 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, > bratt at sasktel.net writes: > > A local mechanic who runs an auto wreckers washes out the crud on resalable > cars by filling the sump with 15W40 Diesel Spec. oil, and running it for a > few hundred miles. The extra detergents in the Diesel Oil wash out the > accumulated crud and sludge. I figured that would be pretty had on the > bearings and cylinder walls. > > > > What say the list? Lots of LBC owners have switched to Shell Rotella for > the ZDDP. Look carefully at the label. Rotella changed recently to a new spec, I think it's CL-4 or something like that. They have reduced the ZDDP in the Rotella too. On the plus side, several oil companies have recently indicated that they will release motor oil products for gasoline engines that have higher levels of ZDDP - these will be marketied as racing oils... If you can't wait, there's good products out there already. Most cater to the racing community (Like RedLine, Valvoline Racing and Brad Penn and others) > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From grant at bowtie6.com Mon Mar 10 09:11:06 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:11:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c882c9$59e757b0$0db60710$@com> Robert, You said: "Look carefully at the label. Rotella changed recently to a new spec, I think it's CL-4 or something like that. They have reduced the ZDDP in the Rotella too." I agree partly with you: there are TWO types of Rotella. I personally don't use Rotella but I have been reading the ZDDP threads and researching. I was at the parts store just last week, and there are two flavours of Rotella. I think there is a 'low' and the original high ZDDP version still available. Might want to check your parts store... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Mar 10 09:21:44 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:21:44 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage In-Reply-To: <454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: On Mon, 10 Mar 2008 lfm614 at aol.com wrote: > I believe that Catrol HD 30 still ZDDP If there is an API-SM rating, then it most certainly does NOT have the _higher levels_ of ZDDP (e.g. 1200ppm) If it doesn't carry an API rating, then _maybe_. > Lou regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Mar 10 15:01:21 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:01:21 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Engine Damage, Rotella T CJ-4 References: <454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <00ee01c882fa$46a39660$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> List/All, I contacted Shell because I passed on some information regarding Rotella T some time ago. There is more information as API ratings changed from CI-4 to CJ-4 on this oil in 2007. Response I received from Shell pasted below: >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Bob, With the introduction a couple of years ago of ILSAC specification GF-4 and API specification SM for gasoline-only engine oils, the amount of phosphorous in the oil had to be reduced to prolong the life of catalytic converters. Zinc-based anti-wear compounds, which also contain phosphorous, were reduced as well. These zinc compounds work well to protect flat tappet engines from excessive wear, so the modern gasoline-only engine oils are not as effective in this regard as they once were. Diesel engine oils don't suffer from the same requirements to protect catalytic converters, so the amount of zinc-based anti-wear additives remained high. Products like Shell Rotella T Oils, which also carry API S-series licenses for gasoline engines, have found favor for flat tappet engines. Shell Rotella T oils contain approximately 1200 ppm zinc. At that level, Shell Rotella T Oils still have at least 50% more of these anti-wear additives as most current gasoline-only engine oils. These levels of zinc have historically offered good protection in flat tappet applications. Thank you for your interest in Shell Rotella Products! Regards, Edward Calcote Staff Chemist, Shell Lubricants US Technical Information Center http://www.rotella.com/ >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Lang" From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Mar 10 11:32:43 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:32:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Pressure Plate Confusion Message-ID: <000001c882dd$22fc4300$210110ac@bobspc> Evidently there are bent finger pressure plates (B&B) and flat finger pressure plates (Leycock). I just got a Sachs' pressure plate from Ted Schumacher and am trying to determine if it's flat or bent finger. It makes a difference with the hydraulic throw out bearing (flat vs curved face) that's used with the 5 speed conversion. It looked just like the B&B when it was off the engine but now that it's installed and torqued down, I'm not so sure. I put a straight edge across the face and measured down to the tip of one finger and to the base of the same finger. At the tip it's 3/16" down and at the base it's 5/16" down. So the finger ends aren't equal distances down. I also put a short straightedge on the length of the finger and it looks flat to me. Does anyone know if the Sachs pressure plate is flat or bent finger and am I checking correctly? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 10 12:33:09 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 12:33:09 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Pressure Plate Confusion In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Mon, 10 Mar 2008 14:32:43 -0400 Message-ID: <4002-47D58CF5-1058@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> Bob D.---I take it your concern is for trying to figure (and set) the distance from the fingers down to the nose of the throwout bearing. If so, then it should be measured from the finger tips, which should be closest to the bearing nose. Pressure plates with the "cranked" or bent fingers have a pronounced bump at the ends. Dick From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson Evidently there are bent finger pressure plates (B&B) and flat finger pressure plates (Leycock). I just got a Sachs' pressure plate from Ted Schumacher and am trying to determine if it's flat or bent finger. It makes a difference with the hydraulic throw out bearing (flat vs curved face) that's used with the 5 speed conversion. It looked just like the B&B when it was off the engine but now that it's installed and torqued down, I'm not so sure. I put a straight edge across the face and measured down to the tip of one finger and to the base of the same finger. At the tip it's 3/16" down and at the base it's 5/16" down. So the finger ends aren't equal distances down. I also put a short straightedge on the length of the finger and it looks flat to me. Does anyone know if the Sachs pressure plate is flat or bent finger and am I checking correctly? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ______________________________________ From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org Mon Mar 10 19:14:04 2008 From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 10 Mar 2008 20:14:04 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 6Pack Magazine In-Reply-To: <8581.69648.qm@web43139.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <8581.69648.qm@web43139.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <47D5EAEC.4070408@tscusa.org> How about an article about the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive?? Todd Bermudez wrote: > Hi Frank, > > > And since we have the subject of newsletter, Please > get me articles. Can't really put something out > without articles. From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Mar 11 09:02:10 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 16:02:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Rotella T CJ-4 In-Reply-To: <00ee01c882fa$46a39660$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <454089294-1205164777-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-113804317-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <00ee01c882fa$46a39660$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: I've always been a Castrol 20W50 guy and tend to resist change. This 'zinc' topic has been interesting, but somewhat over my head. Could someone give a brief explanation of this and the pros/cons of making a switch to Rotella? Sloane :) 69'Six.> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> Bob,> With the introduction a couple of years ago of ILSAC specification GF-4 and> API specification SM for gasoline-only engine oils, the amount of> phosphorous in the oil had to be reduced to prolong the life of catalytic> converters. Zinc-based anti-wear compounds, which also contain phosphorous,> were reduced as well. These zinc compounds work well to protect flat tappet> engines from excessive wear, so the modern gasoline-only engine oils are not> as effective in this regard as they once were.> > Diesel engine oils don't suffer from the same requirements to protect> catalytic converters, so the amount of zinc-based anti-wear additives> remained high. Products like Shell Rotella T Oils, which also carry API> S-series licenses for gasoline engines, have found favor for flat tappet> engines.> > Shell Rotella T oils contain approximately 1200 ppm zinc. At that level,> Shell Rotella T Oils still have at least 50% more of these anti-wear> additives as most current gasoline-only engine oils. These levels of zinc> have historically offered good protection in flat tappet applications.> > Thank you for your interest in Shell Rotella Products!> > Regards,> Edward Calcote> Staff Chemist, Shell Lubricants US Technical Information Center> http://www.rotella.com/> >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From emcguirk at optonline.net Tue Mar 11 18:26:39 2008 From: emcguirk at optonline.net (Ed McGuirk) Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 21:26:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Rotella T CJ-4 Message-ID: <47D7314F.5070201@optonline.net> ===================================== Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 16:02:10 +0000 From: im sloane Subject: Re: [6pack] Rotella T CJ-4 I've always been a Castrol 20W50 guy and tend to resist change. This 'zinc' topic has been interesting, but somewhat over my head. Could someone give a brief explanation of this and the pros/cons of making a switch to Rotella? Sloane :) ===================================== In the simplest terms as I understand it. (please correct me where I am wrong) 1 Zinc is good for engines. 2 Zinc is bad for catalytic converters. 3 API improves engine oil specification every so often. Spark engine oil recently went from an API-SL to API-SM rating. I think compression engine oil (Diesel) ratings are up to CI. 4 The latest API-SM rating calls for vastly reduced Zinc. (synthetic or not - no zinc if you see "SM") My guesses from what I have read on the internet: 5 Racing oils (many 20-50 oils), Motorcycle oils, and Diesel oils still have zinc. 6 The change from API-SL to API-SM is probably why you rarely see oils that carry both "S" and "C" ratings anymore. (I won't even get into the whole group 3 / group 4 synthetic oil brouhaha that allows most oil companies to brand dino oil as "synthetic") I am not an oil expert. ed From FSZEK at aol.com Tue Mar 11 18:28:32 2008 From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 21:28:32 EDT Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Rotella T CJ-4 Message-ID: **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) Return-path: From: FSZEK at aol.com Full-name: FSZEK Message-ID: Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 21:18:55 EDT Subject: Re: [6pack] Rotella T CJ-4 To: im_sloane at hotmail.com MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5201 X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from multipart/alternative by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain The crux of the discussion is that the oils of today have had to change additive packages to accomodate emission regulations. Your 20w50 may seem the same , but your cam and lifters may beg to differ...The choice , as always , is yours. Cheers, Frank **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Mar 11 18:35:39 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 11 Mar 2008 21:35:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Seat Dimension References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc> <1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <014f01c883e1$634e8670$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> My son has come across a pair of seats from 2001 Eclipse that look really good ... my car is at the paint shop so I cannot measure the maximum width of seat that can be fitted in a TR6. I know that a Miata/MX5 seat will fi:t: does anyone know if an Eclipse seat will fit in that space. I measured the TR6 seats that I have taken out and they are 21" at the widest point (they may well have been more narrow at an earier point in their lives!). Thanks, Tony Gordon 72 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Mar 11 18:43:54 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 01:43:54 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Seat Dimension In-Reply-To: <014f01c883e1$634e8670$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc> <1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <014f01c883e1$634e8670$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B6FE480055A@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Tony, while width at the widest point of the seat may be a factor I think that width at the rear of the seat is going to be the critical dimension as my experience with the Miata seats is that they just fit between the B post and the tranny tunnel and while the front of the seat might have a bit more wiggle room (and will probably be the widest dimension) the rear is critical as it needs to be able to pass through this gap betwixt B post and Tranny tunnel to allow the seat to slide all the way back. I have a set of standard seats and Miata seats in the basement and a naked tub if you need anything measured. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Gordon Sent: Tuesday, March 11, 2008 9:36 PM To: TR list; 6pack Subject: [6pack] TR6 Seat Dimension My son has come across a pair of seats from 2001 Eclipse that look really good ... my car is at the paint shop so I cannot measure the maximum width of seat that can be fitted in a TR6. I know that a Miata/MX5 seat will fi:t: does anyone know if an Eclipse seat will fit in that space. I measured the TR6 seats that I have taken out and they are 21" at the widest point (they may well have been more narrow at an earier point in their lives!). Thanks, Tony Gordon 72 TR6 From TR6UO at aol.com Tue Mar 11 23:19:19 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 02:19:19 EDT Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Rotella T CJ-4 Message-ID: I've saved and reviewed much of the discussion of the oil formulation changes and have managed only to confuse myself. To elaborate on Sloane's point, is there a general consensus on what is THE ideal oil to use in a stock TR6 engine? As I read it, Castrol 20/50 was OK. Thanks! Steve '72 Bone Stock 6 **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From lfm614 at aol.com Wed Mar 12 04:21:50 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 11:21:50 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Rotella T CJ-4 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1579715050-1205320939-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1288126740-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Agree from what I have read, I think that the biggest concern is when breaking in a newly rebuilt engine. Lou -----Original Message----- From: TR6UO at aol.com Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 02:19:19 To:FSZEK at aol.com, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Fwd: Rotella T CJ-4 I've saved and reviewed much of the discussion of the oil formulation changes and have managed only to confuse myself. To elaborate on Sloane's point, is there a general consensus on what is THE ideal oil to use in a stock TR6 engine? As I read it, Castrol 20/50 was OK. Thanks! Steve '72 Bone Stock 6 **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Mar 12 05:47:10 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 12:47:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Rotella T CJ-4 In-Reply-To: <1579715050-1205320939-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1288126740-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1579715050-1205320939-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1288126740-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: Yea, but... Not only did I not know that my tappets were flat, I also didn't know that Castrol use to have zinc in it, and that was apparently good for my flat tappets. Don't beat this one to death, but maybe one of the mechanics on the list will give a laymans description of the important points here. thanks, Sloane :)> > I've saved and reviewed much of the discussion of the oil formulation > changes and have managed only to confuse myself. To elaborate on Sloane's point, is > there a general consensus on what is THE ideal oil to use in a stock TR6 > engine? As I read it, Castrol 20/50 was OK.> > Thanks!> > Steve> '72 Bone Stock 6> > > > **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & > Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001)> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> > You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> > You are subscribed as im_sloane at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser! http://biggestloser.msn.com/ From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Mar 12 15:35:06 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 18:35:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc> <1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <004d01c88491$54f3fe60$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list! I'm trying to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the car, and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?). I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) which (with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats seems to allows them to fit). Also, the Acura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining hinge, and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper quickly after that). I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar to those in the Integra. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Mar 12 15:56:55 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 22:56:55 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question In-Reply-To: <004d01c88491$54f3fe60$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc> <1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <004d01c88491$54f3fe60$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B6FE48005B2@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> The Miata seats do fit well although some brackets need to be purchased or fabricated to allow them to mount via the standard TR6 mounting holes. They are very comfortable and with modification the headrest speakers are very effective. An example of the brackets (these are adapted from the How To Improve Your TR6 book) and the rail conversion is here: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversio n/ This is what the seats look like when they are installed. These are mid 90's Miata seats in black fabric. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1705.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1703.jpg And some close up images: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/ Some or all of the URL's above may wrap. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Gordon Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:35 PM To: TR list; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list! I'm trying to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the car, and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?). I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) which (with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats seems to allows them to fit). Also, the Acura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining hinge, and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper quickly after that). I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar to those in the Integra. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Mar 12 16:48:03 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 19:48:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com><000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc><1c2b01c87806$56e4ef00$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <004d01c88491$54f3fe60$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B6FE48005B2@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <00ac01c8849b$837a8060$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Many thanks Stan. The bracket information is particularly useful. The seats look good too! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: "Tony Gordon" ; "TR list" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:56 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question The Miata seats do fit well although some brackets need to be purchased or fabricated to allow them to mount via the standard TR6 mounting holes. They are very comfortable and with modification the headrest speakers are very effective. An example of the brackets (these are adapted from the How To Improve Your TR6 book) and the rail conversion is here: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversion/ This is what the seats look like when they are installed. These are mid 90's Miata seats in black fabric. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1705.jpg http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1703.jpg And some close up images: http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/ Some or all of the URL's above may wrap. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Gordon Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:35 PM To: TR list; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list! I'm trying to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the car, and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?). I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) which (with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats seems to allows them to fit). Also, the Acura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining hinge, and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper quickly after that). I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar to those in the Integra. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Mar 12 17:17:59 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:17:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question Message-ID: <00e001c8849f$b2897b00$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Maybe a photo will help those eagle eyed amongst you ... here's a photo of the Eclipse seat I was hoping to fit into the car www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/Seat.JPG Tony ----- Original Message ----- From: "Tony Gordon" To: "Foster, Stan" ; "TR list" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 7:48 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question > Many thanks Stan. The bracket information is particularly useful. The > seats look good too! > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Foster, Stan" > To: "Tony Gordon" ; "TR list" > ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 6:56 PM > Subject: RE: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question > > > The Miata seats do fit well although some brackets need to be purchased or > fabricated to allow them to mount via the standard TR6 mounting holes. > They are very comfortable and with modification the headrest speakers are > very effective. > > An example of the brackets (these are adapted from the How To Improve Your > TR6 book) and the rail conversion is here: > > http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversion/ > > > This is what the seats look like when they are installed. These are mid > 90's Miata seats in black fabric. > > http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1705.jpg > > http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Panasports/DSCN1703.jpg > > > And some close up images: > > http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/JCW%20Armrest/ > > Some or all of the URL's above may wrap. > > Stan From PeterSchop at aol.com Wed Mar 12 17:18:00 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:18:00 EDT Subject: [6pack] clutch MC will not come apart Message-ID: I am in the process of rebuilding the master cylinder for the clutch in my six. I am having a problem disassembling the piston in the MC. I have removed the rubber boot, taken the circlip out and removed the push rod and washer. I thought the piston would then come out but it won't. I can push the piston against the spring into the bore and the spring will push it back up and just stop where the circlip was. It sounds like metal on metal when it reaches the top. There seems to be a lip in the cylinder holding the piston in. How do I remove this. Should I try scraping it out with a knife while holding the piston down with a screw driver? Any hints would be appreciated. TIA, Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 CC26418L **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From DLylis at aol.com Wed Mar 12 18:03:05 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 21:03:05 EDT Subject: [6pack] [TR] clutch MC will not come apart Message-ID: With the bore facing downward slam it very hard at an angle onto a wooden surface. I use my workbench. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Mar 12 18:39:01 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 21:39:01 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Alternate Seats for TR6 question References: Message-ID: <011d01c884ab$147efdc0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks Ken, Hadn't thought about Fiero's. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ken Gano palm top" To: "Tony Gordon" Sent: Wednesday, March 12, 2008 9:31 PM Subject: RE: [TR] Alternate Seats for TR6 question >I have Pontiac Fiero seats in my TR3. They were a VERY tight fit (in fact, > they didn't without some bad sheet metal sculpture) but should be a very > nice fit in a TR6 (you are about 2 inches wider, which would be close to > perfect.) > > Mister Mike's leather in Florida makes beautiful custom seat covers and is > a > real pleasure to work with. > > My $0.02. > > Ken Gano From j.honor at comcast.net Wed Mar 12 20:38:54 2008 From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 03:38:54 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question Message-ID: <031320080338.25904.47D8A1CE000123D70000653022070208539D01020108D206@comcast.net> Tony, I installed last year leather miata seats using new seat rail supports-this change has been superb-comfort,style functionality in my 74-tr6 -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Tony Gordon" > I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away > being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball > comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list! I'm trying > to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the car, > and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other > than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?). > > I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) which > (with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will > fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats seems to > allows them to fit). > > Also, the Acura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining hinge, > and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper quickly > after that). I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar to > those in the Integra. > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************************************** From: "Tony Gordon" To: "TR list" , "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 22:36:39 +0000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: from Multipart/mixed by demime 1.01d X-Converted-To-Plain-Text: Alternative section used was text/plain _______________________________________________ http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as j.honor at comcast.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Mar 12 22:28:50 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 22:28:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] clutch MC will not come apart In-Reply-To: PeterSchop@aol.com's message of Wed, 12 Mar 2008 20:18:00 EDT Message-ID: <5086-47D8BB92-1475@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Peter---There is a small tab under the CMC spring that holds things together. You need to pry it up just far enough to release the rod. After replacing the seal, compress the parts and bend this tab back down. For illustrations on this, see what the Bentley manual has to say. Also, this illustration is included in the MC rebuild kits. Dick Sender: m.net From: PeterSchop at aol.com I am in the process of rebuilding the master cylinder for the clutch in my six. I am having a problem disassembling the piston in the MC. I have removed the rubber boot, taken the circlip out and removed the push rod and washer. I thought the piston would then come out but it won't. I can push the piston against the spring into the bore and the spring will push it back up and just stop where the circlip was. It sounds like metal on metal when it reaches the top. There seems to be a lip in the cylinder holding the piston in. How do I remove this. Should I try scraping it out with a knife while holding the piston down with a screw driver? Any hints would be appreciated. TIA, Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 CC26418L From apackard68 at comcast.net Thu Mar 13 00:24:17 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 23:24:17 -0800 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR250 progress Message-ID: <200803130624.m2D6OHqB013771@upsa-web109.ofoto.com> Here are some pics from the last three weeks on the car's progress. The car was taken to a media blaster and then back to the body shop for prompt primer application. I just received two part along the top of the L quarter to replace some rust-damaged pieces. I'll be having the piece adjacent to the b pillar and the one just above the tail light that's part of the boot edge replaced. Andy You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.c7894frb&x=0&y=-sxf4mb If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.c7894frb&x=0&y=-sxf4mb From apackard68 at comcast.net Wed Mar 12 23:25:56 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 12 Mar 2008 23:25:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lizard Skin Message-ID: <20080313072731.3007318764A@autox.team.net> List: I'm considering using Lizard Skin as a spray-on heat reducer/sound absorber on my TR250. The car is stripped and in primer awaiting a couple more body repairs. NFI, I'm just looking for advice. The product is at lizardskin.com. I shared photos from Kodakgallery.com with the list to update some progress. Andy CD6746L HVDA From forzion at maine.rr.com Thu Mar 13 05:27:12 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 8:27:12 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Lizard Skin Message-ID: <2123445.663911205411232616.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web12-z02> Andrew; I used a product which I believe is similar. See http://www.quietcoat.com/ It's a spray-on product which I used to coat the cockpit and rear panel surfaces. It's expensive and requires extra care to make certain vertical surfaces are covered properly. Be careful for overspray, especially for exposed bolts/nuts/hardware..... Also, unless the surfaces are clean and free of oils, dirt, etc., the dried-on spray can easily peel off. When all was said and done, I ended up adding Second Skin product (http://www.secondskinaudio.com/vibration-mat/damplifier.php) also. I am confident Second Skin family of products are going to be perfect for the task (haven't had it on the road yet, since installing) and, had I the opportunity to do it again, I'd have chosen Second Skin INSTEAD of the Quiet Car product.... Just my .03 worth (inflation, you know :- ) ) Dave '74-Six w/TBI ---- Andrew Packard wrote: > List: > > I'm considering using Lizard Skin as a spray-on heat reducer/sound absorber > on my TR250. The car is stripped and in primer awaiting a couple more body > repairs. NFI, I'm just looking for advice. The product is at > lizardskin.com. I shared photos from Kodakgallery.com with the list to > update some progress. > > Andy > > CD6746L HVDA > _______________________________________________ From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Mar 13 08:18:40 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 10:18:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question Message-ID: <20080313151840.31153.qmail@server306.com> Thanks. Someone on the list pointed me to the section in "Improve your TR6" that addresses the seats question .... must have skimmed over that section when I last looked. Makes the process of fitting the Miata seats easy. Also, have heard that Fiero seats can be persuaded to fit ... haven't heard of any other foreign seats being used yet. By the way, were your seats black leather ... I haven't found any, only the tan leather ones! ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: j.honor at comcast.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question > Sent: Mar 12 '08 22:38 > > Tony, I installed last year leather miata seats using new seat rail > supports-this change has been superb-comfort,style functionality in my > 74-tr6 > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: "Tony Gordon" > > > I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away > > being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball > > comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list! I'm > trying > > to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the > car, > > and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other > > > than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?). > > > > I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) > which > > (with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will > > > fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats > seems to > > allows them to fit). > > > > Also, the A cura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining > hinge, > > and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper > quickly > > after that). I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar > to > > those in the Integra. From johncnorth at gmail.com Thu Mar 13 10:11:40 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 13:11:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Cam timing Message-ID: <49f668fe0803131011j4d899096y1ba30751cb74e629@mail.gmail.com> Doing this for the first time, so forgive the basic question... The Goodparts instructions for the GP2 say to advance a few degrees for low end torque, which is what I want to do. I see how the sprocket can be used to adjust half a tooth... Am I correct that "advance" the timing means moving the cam sprocket so that the valves open earlier, which if my mental geometry is correct means turning the cam a hair clockwise and hooking up with the offset holes leading. Any help appreciated. John North From PeterSchop at aol.com Thu Mar 13 11:13:21 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:13:21 EDT Subject: [6pack] [TR] clutch MC will not come apart Message-ID: With the bore facing downward slam it very hard at an angle onto a wooden surface. I use my workbench. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO Thanks to all who responded to my post on removing the piston from the clutch master cylinder. Most post were to slam it down on a wooden surface and even to use PB Blaster first. Others were to cover with a towel and then use compressed air. I had my doubts, but I slammed it onto my work bench and the piston went to the end of the bore. I then continued to tap it on the bench where the flange bolts on the firewall. The piston came out far enough to grab a hold and pull it out. After looking at the piston, I noticed that most of the chrome coating has worn off the sides. Is it OK to use this way after replacing the seals? Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 CC26418L **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Mar 13 12:00:38 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 12:00:38 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Cam timing In-Reply-To: "John North" 's message of Thu, 13 Mar 2008 13:11:40 -0400 Message-ID: <27917-47D979D6-946@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net> John---You are correct in which way to move the cam. I wouldn't "advance" the timing too much tho. I'd say 4 deg. to be max without compromising other features of the cam. (Personally, I'd set it as close to '0" as I could get it without retarding the timing.) Dick From: johncnorth at gmail.com(John North) Doing this for the first time, so forgive the basic question... The Goodparts instructions for the GP2 say to advance a few degrees for low end torque, which is what I want to do. I see how the sprocket can be used to adjust half a tooth... Am I correct that "advance" the timing means moving the cam sprocket so that the valves open earlier, which if my mental geometry is correct means turning the cam a hair clockwise and hooking up with the offset holes leading. Any help appreciated. John North ______________________________________ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Mar 13 12:01:21 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 12:01:21 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Cam timing In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803131011j4d899096y1ba30751cb74e629@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803131011j4d899096y1ba30751cb74e629@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: John: You are corrected. "Advanced" timing means the valves open earlier relative to the crank position. I don't recall which way the crank and cam turn, so I am taking your word for it that the crank and cam turn clockwise. Assuming that is correct, then yes the cam sprocket should be rotated clockwise relative to the crank. BTW, you said "advance a few degrees". If GP has a specific number, then follow their recommendation. If they do not give you a specific number, 3-4 degrees is a good place to start. Also remember that the advance is relative to the CRANK. So that means that a 4 degree advance AT THE CRANK means 2 degrees AT THE CAM since the cam is rotating half as fast as the crank. Say for example, there are 72 teeth on the cam gear. Each tooth is then 5 degrees, which translates into 10 degrees at the crank. So I would say advance the cam 1/2 tooth and no more. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 10:12 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] Cam timing Doing this for the first time, so forgive the basic question... The Goodparts instructions for the GP2 say to advance a few degrees for low end torque, which is what I want to do. I see how the sprocket can be used to adjust half a tooth... Am I correct that "advance" the timing means moving the cam sprocket so that the valves open earlier, which if my mental geometry is correct means turning the cam a hair clockwise and hooking up with the offset holes leading. Any help appreciated. John North From tjh173 at yahoo.com Thu Mar 13 14:34:27 2008 From: tjh173 at yahoo.com (Timothy Holbrook) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 14:34:27 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Cam timing Message-ID: <986245.75416.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I would second Dick's advice here John. Since the GP2 is already more of a low-end torque kind of cam, I would set it up with standard timing. The GP3 is tuned more for high-end, so this one would probably make sense to advance a bit if you are looking for more low-end. But with the GP2, I would just stick with the standard timing recommendation. Tim Holbrook 1971 TR6 (GP3-equipped) ----- Original Message ---- From: Sally or Dick Taylor To: John North Cc: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 3:00:38 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Cam timing John---You are correct in which way to move the cam. I wouldn't "advance" the timing too much tho. I'd say 4 deg. to be max without compromising other features of the cam. (Personally, I'd set it as close to '0" as I could get it without retarding the timing.) Dick Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Mar 13 14:41:52 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 17:41:52 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Cam timing In-Reply-To: <986245.75416.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <986245.75416.qm@web34508.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, Regarding the cam timing... both the GP2 and GP3 have 110 degree lobe centers, so advancing the cam by 1/2 tooth would move the intake lobe center to 106-ish which is where a lot of hi-po cams are. Just a point of reference, setting the stock US spec cam to about 7 degrees of advance (that's a whole tooth, almost) yields a very nice torque curve and some of the Street Prepared TR6 guys do this as a matter of course. It works. Timothy - you are right, it's best to install the cam as spec's on the cam card. However, when you're looking for extra ponies you can get better low-end torque by advancing the timing a smidge. Over and out rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From mjmullin at juno.com Thu Mar 13 17:53:53 2008 From: mjmullin at juno.com (mjmullin at juno.com) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 00:53:53 GMT Subject: [6pack] 6-PACK Magazine Message-ID: <20080313.205353.11069.1@webmail03.vgs.untd.com> Hi all: A quick "Thank You!" to the folks who make the 6-PACK magazine, website, and car club run......another great issue, thanks!!!!! Love Jeff Rust's hood scoop "kiss" on the back cover! Sorry to hear that Tim Smith passed away - our thoughts and prayers to his family and his extended ISOA family. Almost time to get the car out of the garage and blow the cobwebs out......already lookin' forward to Townsend, Tennessee!!! Think Spring! Matt Mullin _____________________________________________________________ Click here to find all of your computer accessories for less! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2111/fc/Ioyw6iifZCI86TPKuu6ggIFeg8uS70pO9 cEMNtBt6mxF7G6SXPgR25/ From j.honor at comcast.net Thu Mar 13 19:34:53 2008 From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 02:34:53 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question Message-ID: <031420080234.25058.47D9E44D0004DD96000061E222007456729D01020108D206@comcast.net> yes, tan leather, off a 1999 miata I think. $250 pair! -------------- Original message -------------- From: > Thanks. Someone on the list pointed me to the section in "Improve your TR6" > that addresses the seats question .... must have skimmed over that section when > I last looked. Makes the process of fitting the Miata seats easy. Also, have > heard that Fiero seats can be persuaded to fit ... haven't heard of any other > foreign seats being used yet. > > By the way, were your seats black leather ... I haven't found any, only the tan > leather ones! > > ************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************** > > > > -------Original Message------- > > From: j.honor at comcast.net > > Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternate Seats for TR6 question > > Sent: Mar 12 '08 22:38 > > > > Tony, I installed last year leather miata seats using new seat rail > > supports-this change has been superb-comfort,style functionality in my > > 74-tr6 > > -------------- Original message -------------- > > From: "Tony Gordon" > > > > > I'm looking for some help on the seat replacement front: my car is away > > > being painted, so I cannot measure anything or do any real eyeball > > > comparisons from photos and catalogs, hence a plea to the list! I'm > > trying > > > to find a comfortable (leather if possible) replacement seat for the > > car, > > > and wondered whether anyone has had any success with seats of cars other > > > > > than the Miata, which I've heard are an easy fit (is that true?). > > > > > > I was looking at a pair of seats from an 2001 Eclipse (black leather) > > which > > > (with the help of a TR6 owner off another list) we don't think they will > > > > > fit -- too wide at the B-post (whereas the taper of the Miata seats > > seems to > > > allows them to fit). > > > > > > Also, the A cura Integra has seats that are 19" wide at the reclining > > hinge, > > > and are still 19" wide 24" up from the frame ('though they do taper > > quickly > > > after that). I have looked at a 300z and the seats are somewhat similar > > to > > > those in the Integra. From jzagami at si.rr.com Fri Mar 14 07:57:28 2008 From: jzagami at si.rr.com (joseph zagami) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 10:57:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Message-ID: <001201c885e3$b9d4f1b0$6600a8c0@Bigboy> Hello All, I am just completing the resto for my factory hardtop. Vance's article helped with the headliner and I have some tips to offer at a future posting. Now to the question: The old headliner had 7 studs riveted to the rear shelf lining and one on the bottom of each b pillar post. The factory top kit manual also mention these fittings as well as a "soft-top cover" in various colors. My boot cover does not fit these spacings. My guess is the mystery soft-top cover is the link here with the hardtop somehow being fitted over the folded ragtop still in place on the car. No publication has any picture of the "soft-top cover". Anyone have info on the studs? Regards, JZ 71TR6 original owner GOD BLESS AMERICA From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Fri Mar 14 09:00:52 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 09:00:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Hardtop In-Reply-To: <001201c885e3$b9d4f1b0$6600a8c0@Bigboy> Message-ID: <626480.62851.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> While I do not own a factory hard top, I do know that there was a "special" hood cover when the car was fitted with a factory hardtop. This would allow the person to leave the soft hood installed when fitted with the hardtop. Cheers, Todd --- joseph zagami wrote: > Hello All, > I am just completing the resto for > my factory hardtop. > Vance's article helped with the headliner and I have > some tips to offer at a > future posting. Now to the question: The old > headliner had 7 studs riveted > to the rear shelf lining and one on the bottom of > each b pillar post. The > factory top kit manual also mention these fittings > as well as a "soft-top > cover" in various colors. My boot cover does not > fit these spacings. My > guess is the mystery soft-top cover is the link here > with the hardtop > somehow being fitted over the folded ragtop still in > place on the car. No > publication has any picture of the "soft-top cover". > Anyone have info on the > studs? > Regards, > JZ 71TR6 original owner > GOD BLESS AMERICA ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Mar 14 10:03:21 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 17:03:21 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Hardtop References: <626480.62851.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003001c885f5$4f01d120$0201a8c0@Bevan> ISTR that earlier TR6's (for the UK market and ROW markets) used the normal soft top cover. What happend post-1972 after I left BL I don't know. I also STR the method of securing the factory hardtop required the use of the two large bolt holes on the rear deck which normally secured the soft top rear stiffener. Consequently, with the hardtop in place, all you had to do was wrap the normal soft top cover around the folded top. Of course, a better way was to remove the soft top complete and take advantage of the increased space behind the seats. On my TR6 I made a lightweight wooden box with a lifting lid that went behind the seats for more secure oddments storage. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bermudez" To: "joseph zagami" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 4:00 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop > While I do not own a factory hard top, I do know that > there was a "special" hood cover when the car was > fitted with a factory hardtop. This would allow the > person to leave the soft hood installed when fitted > with the hardtop. > > Cheers, > > Todd From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Mar 14 10:13:56 2008 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 13:13:56 EDT Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Message-ID: In a message dated 3/14/2008 12:01:10 PM Eastern Daylight Time, red_tr250 at yahoo.com writes: While I do not own a factory hard top, I do know that there was a "special" hood cover when the car was fitted with a factory hardtop. This would allow the person to leave the soft hood installed when fitted with the hardtop. Cheers, Todd --- joseph zagami wrote: > Hello All, > I am just completing the resto for > my factory hardtop. > Vance's article helped with the headliner and I have > some tips to offer at a > future posting. Now to the question: The old > headliner had 7 studs riveted > to the rear shelf lining and one on the bottom of > each b pillar post. The > factory top kit manual also mention these fittings > as well as a "soft-top > cover" in various colors. My boot cover does not > fit these spacings. My > guess is the mystery soft-top cover is the link here > with the hardtop > somehow being fitted over the folded ragtop still in > place on the car. No > publication has any picture of the "soft-top cover". > Anyone have info on the > studs? > Regards, > JZ 71TR6 original owner > GOD BLESS AMERICA ______________________________________________________________________________ ______ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) JZ, I concur with Todd's statement. I have a hardtop (although in the 9 years I've owned it, it's never been on the car) and the special boot. I never understood why my boot was different from others until a very knowledgeable soul explained it to me at a local British car show. He also pointed out that hardtop models did not have the windscreen capping plugs (TRF catalog, green #2, page 373, items FG30 and 31). What specifics do you need ? I will try to help. The car, boot, and hardtop are easily accessed. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Mar 14 12:11:40 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 15:11:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tape Question Message-ID: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc> Last year I re-wrapped Dan's wire harness with proper harness tape. For the ends I then used regular black electrician's tape cut on an angle to secure the harness tape. Well, most of those ends are now curling. Is there a tape out there that's maybe heat activated (like heat shrink tubing) so that it sticks to itself and won't curl? Bob........spending his day standing in an empty engine bay, cleaning, using touch up paint and looking at tape coming unwrapped. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Mar 14 12:19:03 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 15:19:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tape Question In-Reply-To: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000301c88608$455d6c70$d0184550$@com> Bob, Just a suggestion: I too have found that electrical tape when exposed to heat and just 'use', will tend to curl. I have not given it much thought, just maybe adding some fresh tape to solve the problem. My concern with using something like heat shrink tubing is that sure, it will look like a million bucks and solve the problem forever but then what will happen if you ever need to take that tape off? Eventually a day will come when the tape needs to come off for either a repair or refurbishment. Having something permanent like heat shrink would be difficult at best to remove... Just a thought... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Mar 14 12:51:42 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 19:51:42 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Tape Question In-Reply-To: <000301c88608$455d6c70$d0184550$@com> References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc> <000301c88608$455d6c70$d0184550$@com> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F595994@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> I don't see a big problem with using a small section of heat shrink to secure the ends of the loom wrap. You should be easily able to cut that off if you needed to. Heat shrinking the whole loom would be a different story and something of a challenge ! Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joseph Grant Sent: Friday, March 14, 2008 3:19 PM To: 'Bob Danielson'; 'Triumphs'; '6-Pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Tape Question Bob, Just a suggestion: I too have found that electrical tape when exposed to heat and just 'use', will tend to curl. I have not given it much thought, just maybe adding some fresh tape to solve the problem. My concern with using something like heat shrink tubing is that sure, it will look like a million bucks and solve the problem forever but then what will happen if you ever need to take that tape off? Eventually a day will come when the tape needs to come off for either a repair or refurbishment. Having something permanent like heat shrink would be difficult at best to remove... Just a thought... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Mar 14 12:53:25 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 15:53:25 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tape Question Message-ID: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02> Bob; Check out the tape products here: http://www.delcity.net/delcity/servlet/catalog?parentid=331&page=1 I have used Del City products for several years. They have reasonable prices and good quality, I have found. They even have some hard-to-find stuff you might like. NFI, of course. Hope this helps, Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI ---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > Last year I re-wrapped Dan's wire harness with proper harness tape. For the > ends I then used regular black electrician's tape cut on an angle to secure > the harness tape. Well, most of those ends are now curling. Is there a tape > out there that's maybe heat activated (like heat shrink tubing) so that it > sticks to itself and won't curl? > > Bob........spending his day standing in an empty engine bay, cleaning, using > touch up paint and looking at tape coming unwrapped. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Fri Mar 14 14:15:06 2008 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 17:15:06 EDT Subject: [6pack] Tape Question Message-ID: Bob, I always use just a small piece of heat shrink tubing on the ends. Really works good and keeps the elements at bay, etc. It is very easy to replace if you ever need to. Just a quick little cut with a razor knife and you're good to do whatever you need. Just my 2 cents. Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO **************It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms, and advice on AOL Money & Finance. (http://money.aol.com/tax?NCID=aolprf00030000000001) From william.mcintire at wright.edu Fri Mar 14 14:35:42 2008 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 17:35:42 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tape Question In-Reply-To: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02> References: <2010516.1157981205524405683.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02> Message-ID: -Bob, It may be me but I've never had that problem. I've always cut the tape straight and stretch it some during application rather than just wrapping it around. Seems to stick really well for me. May be my luck. Bill 70 6 original owner > > ---- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > > Last year I re-wrapped Dan's wire harness with proper harness > tape. For the > > ends I then used regular black electrician's tape cut on an angle > to secure > > the harness tape. Well, most of those ends are now curling. Is > there a tape > > out there that's maybe heat activated (like heat shrink tubing) > so that it > > sticks to itself and won't curl? > > > > Bob........spending his day standing in an empty engine bay, > cleaning, using > > touch up paint and looking at tape coming unwrapped. > > > > Thanks > > > > Bob Danielson > > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > _______________________________________________ From bobfabie at gmail.com Fri Mar 14 15:24:44 2008 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 18:24:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tape Question In-Reply-To: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Dan: I have found that tearing rather than cutting (with scissors) and over stretching is what causes electrical tape to curl up after it's wrapped around a wire or harness. I've used harness wrap on many wire bundles and sealed the ends with electrical tape (cut and not overstretched) and have not had the curling problem. I hope this helps. Bob Fabie From motrv8d at hotmail.com Fri Mar 14 15:47:16 2008 From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 22:47:16 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Hardtop In-Reply-To: <626480.62851.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <001201c885e3$b9d4f1b0$6600a8c0@Bigboy> <626480.62851.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I have a factory hardtop, and one of those boot covers. It does allow for the soft top to be concealed while having the hardtop on.> Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 09:00:52 -0700> From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com> To: jzagami at si.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Hardtop> > While I do not own a factory hard top, I do know that> there was a "special" hood cover when the car was> fitted with a factory hardtop. This would allow the> person to leave the soft hood installed when fitted> with the hardtop.> > Cheers,> > Todd> > --- joseph zagami wrote:> > > Hello All,> > I am just completing the resto for> > my factory hardtop. > > Vance's article helped with the headliner and I have> > some tips to offer at a > > future posting. Now to the question: The old> > headliner had 7 studs riveted > > to the rear shelf lining and one on the bottom of> > each b pillar post. The > > factory top kit manual also mention these fittings> > as well as a "soft-top > > cover" in various colors. My boot cover does not> > fit these spacings. My > > guess is the mystery soft-top cover is the link here> > with the hardtop > > somehow being fitted over the folded ragtop still in> > place on the car. No > > publication has any picture of the "soft-top cover".> > Anyone have info on the > > studs?> > Regards,> > JZ 71TR6 original owner> > GOD BLESS AMERICA > > > > _____________________________________________________________________________ _______> Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. > http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> > You are subscribed as motrv8d at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join From k6na at cts.com Fri Mar 14 19:03:53 2008 From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 19:03:53 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Tape Question In-Reply-To: References: <000001c88607$3d91fd90$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080315020428.0EC6C1A33@ocean.concentric.com> Robert is right-on here. Further, I would suggest using only Scotch 33+, avoiding the cheap tapes. There IS a difference. Use moderate stretch when applying the main wraps, but stop stretching as you near the end of the work. Pull a little extra (still continuous) off the roll, and cut with scissors. Apply the last couple of turns with NO stretch. That is the 3M-recommended way to avoid elastic-return and flagging. Glenn/San Diego 6's At 03:24 PM 3/14/2008, you wrote: > Dan: >I have found that tearing rather than cutting (with scissors) and over >stretching is what causes electrical tape to curl up after it's wrapped >around a wire or harness. I've used harness wrap on many wire bundles and >sealed the ends with electrical tape (cut and not overstretched) and have >not had the curling problem. I hope this helps. >Bob Fabie From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Mar 14 21:13:13 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 14 Mar 2008 22:13:13 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 - $4500 of $6000 collected Message-ID: <47DB4CD9.7010405@tscusa.org> Hello All! To date, $6000 has been pledged http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/ and $4500 collected. So if you have not yet grabbed that checkbook to support this effort, please do so this weekend. This is a much better cause than paying your taxes, and besides, you have to do something with your "Economic Stimulus Payment" our US Congress has so graciously stuck in your wallet in time for summer driving. :-D Any amount donated is greatly appreciated, and if you have already Pledged and not anted up, remember, we know who you are and where your Triumph is parked ;-) ah ... so we can send you your raffle tickets of course ... 8-) The Stag is now sitting in Illinois at the Triumph and Quarter Horse Farm in Hampshire since about 8:00pm Sunday 9 March. ISOA will be kicking off some off the dissection phase discussion at their annual ChiliFest Saturday 15 March, and after fueling up with the appropriate amount of greenhouse gases, will then descend on the Triumph and Quarter Horse Farm to warm the workshop and extract the engine to commence checking off the long list of restoration tasks. An appropriate obedient scribe and historian has begun documenting this restoration process, so I would expect to see something pop up in the form of photos in the next 30 days. In the mean time, do keep your eyes peeled for some of the sweet publicity we have planned to surface in the next couple of months. http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Thank you for your interest and participation in the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive! Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell sTTAg 2009 Coordinator Team Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield ... and a winning TTA Stag raffle ticket!! From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Mar 15 17:19:12 2008 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 15 Mar 2008 17:19:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Lizard Skin In-Reply-To: <2123445.663911205411232616.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web12-z02> References: <2123445.663911205411232616.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web12-z02> Message-ID: Andrew, Check out Second Skin's products http://www.secondskinaudio.com/. I did not use their spray products on but am extremely happy with their Damplifier Pro product. The forums at their web site have a bunch of info and some guys really into sound/thermal deadening. Helped me out a lot with choice of product and how to apply it. NFI. Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From j.honor at comcast.net Sat Mar 15 20:39:50 2008 From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 03:39:50 +0000 Subject: [6pack] new transmission ideas Message-ID: <031620080339.18197.47DC96860001240C0000471522058891169D01020108D206@comcast.net> springtime with 74- tr-6; comtemplating swaping tranny with new 5 speed along with clutch and lite flywheel- what has been folks expereince in doing this and worth results? Thanks as always! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 16 06:00:45 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 09:00:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] new transmission ideas In-Reply-To: <031620080339.18197.47DC96860001240C0000471522058891169D01020108D206@comcast.net> References: <031620080339.18197.47DC96860001240C0000471522058891169D01020108D206@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000e01c88765$c1a98c60$210110ac@bobspc> I'm at the tail end of this conversion now: Toyota 5 speed new pressure plate and Nissan differential. Herman's 5 sped conversion kit is very complete (new clutch and TO Bearing included), has excellent directions and you've got Herman to hold your hand as needed. The only problem I've had is he supplies a flat faced hydraulic throw out bearing which is used with bent finger pressure plates. The Sachs PP that I got from Ted Schumacher is a flat finger PP and they require a curved face TO Bearing. So we're swapping TO Bearings now. You can follow my progress for all this work at http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/60thBirthday.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of j.honor at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 11:40 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] new transmission ideas springtime with 74- tr-6; comtemplating swaping tranny with new 5 speed along with clutch and lite flywheel- what has been folks expereince in doing this and worth results? Thanks as always! 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.85 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1331 - Release Date: 3/16/2008 10:34 AM From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Mar 16 08:29:32 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:29:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast iron manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a while but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up and stick with the rusty cast iron ?. Stan From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 16 08:51:11 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 10:51:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing References: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <001501c8877e$362877f0$800101df@garage.local> jet hot or similar coatings last ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: "'6-Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 10:29 AM Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing >I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast >iron > manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a > while > but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. > > Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up > and > stick with the rusty cast iron ?. > > Stan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Mar 16 09:12:26 2008 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 12:12:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing In-Reply-To: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Based on personal previous experience. Paint = bad, Jet hot = good Marty > From: stan.foster at hp.com > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:29:32 +0000 > Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing > > I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast iron > manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a while > but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. > > Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up and > stick with the rusty cast iron ?. > > Stan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as trmarty at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser! http://biggestloser.msn.com/ From levilevi at comcast.net Sun Mar 16 10:13:38 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 11:13:38 -0600 Subject: [6pack] word of caution on eBay item 150222210634 ARE wheels Message-ID: <002301c88789$14aa6600$54f30818@rolofson> BlankFor those of you thinking about bidding on item 150222210634 a word of caution. The spinners shown don't appear to be the spinners that actually will fit onto the wheels. I ask the seller about it and got no reply. The narrative is vague and seems to imply that the wheels you're buying and the spinners will work together and one picture is of the a spinner sitting on a wheel...what they don't tell you is that its just sitting on the wheel and won't actually fit the threads properly. The tip off should be that the seller says the spinners are new. I don't know of anyone making new Nokof spinners which are the correct ones for ARE wheels. Makes you wonder about the real condition of the wheels. As always buyer beware. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From CP25616 at aol.com Sun Mar 16 12:11:03 2008 From: CP25616 at aol.com (CP25616 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 15:11:03 EDT Subject: [6pack] word of caution on eBay item 150222210634 ARE wheels Message-ID: I am not sure these are actually American Racing Wheels? They dont appear to have the splayed out kinks in the "spokes" where the wheel nuts go. Now I may be wrong but after close inspection of the available photos I just cant see this typical ARE feature. Alan Graham From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Mar 16 12:52:14 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 12:52:14 -0700 Subject: [6pack] new transmission ideas In-Reply-To: j.honor@comcast.net's message of Sun, 16 Mar 2008 03:39:50 +0000 Message-ID: <6435-47DD7A6E-1639@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> j.---Here are some plus and minus' for the 5 speed conversion as I see them: Pros 1) Relaxed cruising at highway speeds in 5th. 2) No Slave Cylinder, clutch fork and pin, and assorted linkage to deal with any more. 3) Better highway mileage. 4) Slightly lower first gear, for better dig out of the hole. Cons. 1) Initial cost. (Compare to rebuilding the TR tranny, or to converting to a TR OD)? 2) Non-standard unit, if that's important to you. 3) Parts, 10 years from now? There is some getting used to the different throw of the gearshift and clutch pedal. Not an issue, just different. The release point for the clutch is higher up, altho it can be adjusted to release closer to the floor, if one wants it that way. (Write for details, but don't tell Herman)I For those who favor originality, I would recommend hanging on to your standard TR tranny. The switch back to all Triumph is easy enough. Just in case your decendants want to change it! Dick From: j.honor at comcast.net springtime with 74- tr-6; comtemplating swaping tranny with new 5 speed along with clutch and lite flywheel- what has been folks expereince in doing this and worth results? Thanks as always! ______________________________________ From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com Sun Mar 16 13:03:28 2008 From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:03:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 03/16/2008 and will not return until 03/20/2008. You may leave me a voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond when I'm able. I'll be checking email and voicemail during this time. Orders may be sent to: MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact customer service at 800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1. Regards, Robert This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for transfers of data to third parties. Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html From jzagami at si.rr.com Sun Mar 16 13:17:21 2008 From: jzagami at si.rr.com (joseph zagami) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:17:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] hardtop Message-ID: <000901c887a2$be833260$6600a8c0@Bigboy> Hello, Thanks to all who helped with the hardtop press studs query. There is indeed a special soft-top cover which allows (when the rear stiffener bar is unbolted and wrapped along with the ragtop) the ragtop to remain bundled in the car with the hardtop in place. Bought my car new in 71, have spent gobs of hours restoring it , assuming I know it's secrets intimately but this was news to me. Some of you even sent me pictures. Thanks Again Regards, JZ From rlambour at comcast.net Sun Mar 16 13:22:19 2008 From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard and Tracy Lambour) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:22:19 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? Message-ID: <20080316212035.030B8187662@autox.team.net> HI, Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious what others have done. Thanks! Rick Lambour 1970 TR-6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 16 13:36:22 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 16:36:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing In-Reply-To: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <000501c887a5$6772ceb0$210110ac@bobspc> Stan, Check back with me in a year or so...........I just did my manifold (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/ManifoldRepair.htm) with the POR-15 product for manifolds. They claim it's good to 1400 degrees and durable. But I guess time will tell. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 11:30 AM To: '6-Pack' Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast iron manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a while but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up and stick with the rusty cast iron ?. Stan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.85 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1331 - Release Date: 3/16/2008 10:34 AM From jimmble at roadrunner.com Sun Mar 16 14:46:04 2008 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 17:46:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? In-Reply-To: <20080316212035.030B8187662@autox.team.net> References: <20080316212035.030B8187662@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <47DD951C.70108@roadrunner.com> Rick, My choice is either a combination of poly fronts and rubber rears, or all poly. There is a slight increase in 'rumble" with all poly. Not much, though. Jim Franks Richard and Tracy Lambour wrote: > HI, > > > > Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people > liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or > polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to > find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for > daily driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am > curious what others have done. > > > > Thanks! > > > > Rick Lambour From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Mar 16 15:51:59 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 18:51:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? In-Reply-To: <20080316212035.030B8187662@autox.team.net> References: <20080316212035.030B8187662@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000a01c887b8$5a55e510$210110ac@bobspc> Rick, I did Goodparts Nylatron on the front suspension last year and didn't notice any additional harshness or noise. This year I'm doing his Nylatron rear bushings along with his trailing arm kit and differential upgrade. I hoping for the same results at the back as I got from the front. Just make sure you examine your mounts very carefully. The first time I checked mine I missed the cracks as they're not necessarily that obvious. I was looking for a BIG crack but what I had was a small line that was easy to miss. You can see what I mean here by it just being a small line http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard and Tracy Lambour Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 4:22 PM To: net at lists.mv.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? HI, Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious what others have done. Thanks! Rick Lambour 1970 TR-6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.85 / Virus Database: 269.21.7/1331 - Release Date: 3/16/2008 10:34 AM From jmitch at snet.net Sun Mar 16 16:23:40 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 19:23:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Bell exhaust system Message-ID: <47DDABFC.50907@snet.net> I just installed a new Bell SS stock type exhaust system. The fit is superb compared to the falcon system I had on it. I was just wondering about the eyelet hangars welded to the front intermediate pipes. The TRF catalog shows an L-shaped bracket that would attach theses eyelets to something, but I'm not sure what. They stick up very near the angle drive on the OD transmission. I just left them and used the other type hangar instead. Anyone know where that bracket would attach? Thanks John Mitchell 76 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Mar 16 16:47:33 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 16 Mar 2008 23:47:33 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [net] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? In-Reply-To: <20080316202120.6329.qmail@mercury.mv.net> References: <20080316202120.6329.qmail@mercury.mv.net> Message-ID: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959D5@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> I went the Poly route last year after finding that the rubber mounts were completely knackered and the bracket on one side cracked. I had read that when the rubber bushes deteriorate it allows the whole shebang to move up and down and that hammering effect contributes to the other problems in the nether region. So I boxed in the brackets, ground out and welded up the crack and fitted poly bushes. I just checked them last week and no obvious problems and no issues with noise or vibration that I would notice. Stan From: owner-net at lists.mv.net [mailto:owner-net at lists.mv.net] On Behalf Of Richard and Tracy Lambour Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 4:22 PM To: net at lists.mv.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [net] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? HI, Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious what others have done. Thanks! Rick Lambour 1970 TR-6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Mar 17 04:51:34 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 07:51:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] [net] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? In-Reply-To: <20080316202120.6329.qmail@mercury.mv.net> References: <20080316202120.6329.qmail@mercury.mv.net> Message-ID: Hi, The diff mounting will de pretty much nothing for improving handling. The big deal for ALL the rubber parts on the suspension is that the current offerings do not last as long as the originals, so if yo want the parts to last, go with urethane. You will get a bit more noise from teh urethane, but in all seriousness - you can't hear that noise over al the other noises in the car. I've been using urethane on my street car for well over 10 years. Not probs yet. I put in urethane after the diff mounts cracked and I had to weld in the gussets and all that stuff. No problems and over 40k miles on that setup. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 17 08:39:10 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:39:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing In-Reply-To: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: I used VHT flat aluminum header coating (it is not a paint) good for 1400F. Picked it up at the local auto parts store. I bead blasted and then solvent cleaned the manifold going on 3 years now and no problems - although I only put a few thousand miles a year on the car. Still, I am impressed as I expected the stuff to disappear in a cloud of smoke in a few minutes. It goes on very soft, and is easily scratched, but the first time you fire the motor it fuses on and is surprisingly tough after that. I am guessing it has some sort of low temperature glass in a slurry. The glass fuses when it gets hot enough? There are also some coatings from Eastwood (?) that you might consider. You can get a cast iron grey coating that preserves the original appearance (before it got rusty, that is). The VHT is cheap and so easy I would not advise you to give up. If you want something easy, give it a try. The ultimate is a Jet Hot coating, but that is expensive and you need to take your manifold to a business that does it. It is the best however. I had jet hot coated headers on my Z28 Camaro, and they looked brand new 5 years later. Awesome stuff. Very pretty, too. YMMV, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 8:30 AM To: '6-Pack' Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast iron manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a while but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up and stick with the rusty cast iron ?. Stan _______________________________________________ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 17 08:47:50 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:47:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] new transmission ideas In-Reply-To: <031620080339.18197.47DC96860001240C0000471522058891169D01020108D206@comcast.net> References: <031620080339.18197.47DC96860001240C0000471522058891169D01020108D206@comcast.net> Message-ID: J.: A bit of data to consider. A TR6 with an overdrive is worth $1000 more than the same TR6 w/o overdrive. A TR6 with a five speed gets no resale premium best I can tell. I added the OD to my car for about $500 plus my labor. I don't think you can do it that cheaply anymore, but a SWAG would be $750 if you supplied the labor and added a Volvo sourced OD to your existing TR6 tranny. Probably a better deal overall, but not as slick as the 5 speed. Also, you can lighten your existing flywheel while you are adding an OD. I don't know what a TR6 lightened flywheel costs new, but I got mine lightened for $90. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of j.honor at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, March 15, 2008 8:40 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] new transmission ideas springtime with 74- tr-6; comtemplating swaping tranny with new 5 speed along with clutch and lite flywheel- what has been folks expereince in doing this and worth results? Thanks as always! _______________________________________________ From triosan at gmail.com Mon Mar 17 09:00:37 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 09:00:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 parts needed for my racecar Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803170900x65056e0dj45032261fc2c6aa0@mail.gmail.com> I need a lever that goes on the gas pedal shaft to operate the linkage and I need door latches [left]. Neither is available from the ususual 3. Thanks, -- Chuck Arnold From rclark at robertsonclark.com Mon Mar 17 10:12:42 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 10:12:42 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing In-Reply-To: <81507BCC51C19540B9D1CABB24E91B6B824F5959CF@GVW0434EXB.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan, I saw this product suggested on the Wedge list: http://www.calyxmanifold.com/ Bob Clark '69 TR6 I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast iron manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a while but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up and stick with the rusty cast iron ?. Stan _______________________________________________ From mgc4 at CDC.GOV Mon Mar 17 10:19:05 2008 From: mgc4 at CDC.GOV (Campsmith, Michael (CDC/CCID/NCHHSTP)) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 13:19:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: Exhaust manifold finishing Message-ID: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC60910CC@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov> I did not have favorable results using this product on a non-Triumph engine. It has a nice "cast iron" appearance when applied, but didn't even last a month before the rust started to show through. In the interest of full disclosure, I didn't remove the exhaust manifolds and sand blast as I normally would; I didn't want to face the prospect of broken mounting studs, etc. trying to remove the manifolds. But the instructions say you can clean the manifolds and apply while they are attached to the car, so I followed directions and was just not satisfied. I had my TR6 headers coated with Jet Hot and would recommend that instead of a "do-it-yourself" finish. Jot Hot is pricey, but should be a one-time expense (at least for me). As always, your mileage may vary. Michael Campsmith 1974 TR6 (now BRG) -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+mgc4=cdc.gov at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+mgc4=cdc.gov at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert N. Clark Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 1:13 PM To: Foster, Stan; 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing Stan, I saw this product suggested on the Wedge list: http://www.calyxmanifold.com/ Bob Clark '69 TR6 I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast iron manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a while but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up and stick with the rusty cast iron ?. Stan _______________________________________________ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mgc4 at cdc.gov From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 17 11:31:01 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 11:31:01 -0700 Subject: [6pack] new transmission ideas 2 In-Reply-To: "Navarrette, Vance" 's message of Mon, 17 Mar 2008 08:47:50 -0700 Message-ID: <27917-47DEB8E5-3525@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net> As one of the surrogate buyers for the Club, I also add $1,000 to the top value to a TR equipped with a working OD transmission. I would give the same value to a TR equipped with a well done conversion to the 5 speed. Oddly enough, having inspected dozens of TRs, I have seen neither for sale! Dick Los Angeles From: vance.navarrette at intel.com(Navarrette, Vance) J.: A bit of data to consider. A TR6 with an overdrive is worth $1000 more than the same TR6 w/o overdrive. A TR6 with a five speed gets no resale premium best I can tell... Cheers, Vance ________ From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Mar 17 11:37:06 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 14:37:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] More cam timing Message-ID: <49f668fe0803171137o731ea16h9f4b2f4f66653f93@mail.gmail.com> The cam I am installing does not measure out to spec. At 50 thou of cam lift, intake opens at 1.5 BTDC which is 2 degrees late, and duration is 229, which is +2 degrees from spec. Exhaust opens on spec, but duration is +2 degrees at 229. Overlap is 8 degrees which is 1 degree over spec. My cam sprocket also does not seem to be to spec either because it advances 6 degrees when I use the offset holes. This is rather more than I want, at least on the exhaust. These differences don't seem so great, but my question is what performance differences might arise from using this cam? John North From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Mar 17 12:02:44 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 12:02:44 -0700 Subject: [6pack] More cam timing In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803171137o731ea16h9f4b2f4f66653f93@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803171137o731ea16h9f4b2f4f66653f93@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: John: The most critical valve event is the intake closing, which sounds like ends up exactly where it should. As for the +/- 2 degree variation on the timing, that is probably pretty typical unless you get a new cam from someone like Comp Cams or Crane with state of the art grinding equipment. I certainly would not reject the cam because of that variation. Advancing or retarding the cam 6 degrees is a bit much, 3 degrees is more like it. So if you are going to use your stock timing gears then you are best if you install it straight up. As for performance differences, there most likely will be no noticeable difference between a "perfect" cam and your cam. A couple of degrees gain or loss on duration will not make any difference. The 1 extra degree of overlap will by itself not make much difference. However the cam figures you quote imply that the lobe centerlines are spread by 1 degree, which depending on the cam may make a noticeable difference. It will make the idle slightly less lopey and improve fuel economy. The power band will be wider but peak power will be down slightly. What is the spec'ed lobe center line angle? Frankly, you have a very gnarly racing type cam in there, so it is going to chop and in general be pretty miserable unless you are building a racer. If you are going to try to run this on the street, then you need to raise the compression to at least 10:1, have a header and free flow exhaust, and probably add some low gears as well. Cold start drivability will be problematic as well. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 11:37 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] More cam timing The cam I am installing does not measure out to spec. At 50 thou of cam lift, intake opens at 1.5 BTDC which is 2 degrees late, and duration is 229, which is +2 degrees from spec. Exhaust opens on spec, but duration is +2 degrees at 229. Overlap is 8 degrees which is 1 degree over spec. My cam sprocket also does not seem to be to spec either because it advances 6 degrees when I use the offset holes. This is rather more than I want, at least on the exhaust. These differences don't seem so great, but my question is what performance differences might arise from using this cam? John North From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Mar 17 12:21:53 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:21:53 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] More cam timing In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803171137o731ea16h9f4b2f4f66653f93@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803171137o731ea16h9f4b2f4f66653f93@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Hi, You'll probably get several responses to your query, but the bottom line is that you are "right in the ballpark" given the timing gear and cam grind. I'd just go with it. If you want to verify your timing numbers, pick up the I/E for cylinder #6 and see if the numbers are the same. If they are the same, you can't do much about it as the cam grind and the gears that you have in hand. If you had a vernier cam (not worth the extra money for your cam given the data points provided, IMHO) you could probably dial in intake or exhaust to spec, but it looks like the cam grind is a tad off and that happens sometimes. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Mar 17 12:49:34 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:49:34 -0400 Subject: [6pack] More cam timing In-Reply-To: References: <49f668fe0803171137o731ea16h9f4b2f4f66653f93@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49f668fe0803171249m79b4b843x88a45e7ef52d8d1c@mail.gmail.com> On Mon, Mar 17, 2008 at 3:02 PM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: >Frankly, you have a very gnarly racing type cam in there, so it >is going to chop and in general be pretty miserable unless you are >building a racer. Surely not, Vance, this is the GP2 cam from Goodparts... Spec lobe centerline is 110. Installed straight up, I would have Intake centerline at 112.75 and Exhaust at 108.5. Installed in the advance holes, I would have Intake 106.75 and Exhaust at 114.5. Don't like the sound of that. John From jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu Mon Mar 17 13:06:38 2008 From: jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu (jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 16:06:38 -0400 Subject: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 03/17/2008 and will not return until 03/24/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Mar 17 15:05:53 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 18:05:53 -0400 Subject: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c8887b$130356c0$6601a8c0@Robert> ** I will be out of the office starting 03/17/2008 and will not return until 03/24/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. ** I will be out of the office starting 03/16/2008 and will not return until 03/20/2008. You may leave me a voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond when I'm able. I'll be checking email and voicemail during this time. Orders may be sent to: MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact customer service at 800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1. Regards, Robert Excuse me but what part of this is TR6 related? Who cares if your away from the office. Knowing the Dupont Companies reputation, are you sure you should be using the company e-mail for private use? Robert Gannon From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 17 15:10:33 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 15:10:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. In-Reply-To: <000601c8887b$130356c0$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <604748.28869.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> lets all send him a message Robert Liam Gannon wrote: ** I will be out of the office starting 03/17/2008 and will not return until 03/24/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. ** I will be out of the office starting 03/16/2008 and will not return until 03/20/2008. You may leave me a voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond when I'm able. I'll be checking email and voicemail during this time. Orders may be sent to: MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact customer service at 800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1. Regards, Robert Excuse me but what part of this is TR6 related? Who cares if your away from the office. Knowing the Dupont Companies reputation, are you sure you should be using the company e-mail for private use? Robert Gannon 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Mar 17 19:52:56 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 18:52:56 -0800 Subject: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. References: <000601c8887b$130356c0$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <002501c888a3$2b0a6f10$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> OK ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Liam Gannon" To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; "'Robert P Waldrop'" Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:05 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. > ** I will be out of the office starting 03/17/2008 and will not return > until > 03/24/2008. > > I will respond to your message when I return. > > ** I will be out of the office starting 03/16/2008 and will not return > until 03/20/2008. > > You may leave me a voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond > when I'm able. I'll be checking email and voicemail during this time. > Orders may be sent to: MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact > customer service at > 800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1. > Regards, Robert > > > Excuse me but what part of this is TR6 related? Who cares if your away from > the office. > > Knowing the Dupont Companies reputation, are you sure you should be using > the company e-mail for private use? > > Robert Gannon > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Mar 17 19:53:04 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 18:53:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. References: <604748.28869.qm@web82801.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002a01c888a3$30141b50$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> OK ----- Original Message ----- From: "oliver" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 2:10 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. > lets all send him a message > > Robert Liam Gannon wrote: ** I will be out of the office starting 03/17/2008 and will not return > until > 03/24/2008. > > I will respond to your message when I return. > > ** I will be out of the office starting 03/16/2008 and will not return > until 03/20/2008. > > You may leave me a voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond > when I'm able. I'll be checking email and voicemail during this time. > Orders may be sent to: MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact > customer service at > 800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1. > Regards, Robert > > > Excuse me but what part of this is TR6 related? Who cares if your away from > the office. > > Knowing the Dupont Companies reputation, are you sure you should be using > the company e-mail for private use? > > Robert Gannon > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as sumton at sbcglobal.net > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From levilevi at comcast.net Mon Mar 17 21:01:18 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Mon, 17 Mar 2008 22:01:18 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing References: Message-ID: <003f01c888ac$b8fbeed0$54f30818@rolofson> I tried this and thought it held up well for what it was. For me the Calyx was a way to dress up the rusted, calico cat colored, stock exhaust manifold until I decided whether to put headers on or not. The calyx went on easy and held up for a season which was way easier than taking it apart just for looks when I potentially had other plans. It didn't smoke, smell, or change color...I did have to touch it up after a few months but very little. Given the ease, value, satisfaction, and the advantages of procrastination I'd say give it a try. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert N. Clark To: Foster, Stan ; 6-Pack Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 11:12 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing Stan, I saw this product suggested on the Wedge list: http://www.calyxmanifold.com/ Bob Clark '69 TR6 I did some research this morning into high temp manifold paint and cast iron manifolds. The consensus seems to be that these finishes will work for a while but eventually it will either peel off or rust will eventually re-appear. Does anyone have a good story here using paint or should I just give it up and stick with the rusty cast iron ?. Stan _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Tue Mar 18 05:23:26 2008 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 08:23:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E0EE6@USCANCISNT05> Rick's question below was convenient since I spent a few hours this past weekend cleaning and disassembling my differential with the intention of replacing the pilot shaft seals and the two side shaft seals. Current problem is that while the flange on the pilot shaft came off easy, the side flanges refuse to budge. Sunday I ruined a cheap puller and went to get the best available at Autozone ($39.) and have really reamed on that baby with no results. They are soaking in penetrating oil now but looking for advice. Tighten harder? Go to a machine shop for a press? Apply my propane torch? Any help appreciated. Well before I hit the send button, I did an archive search and found my answer. Machine shop with press is the only answer. I'll go that route and give an update. Thanks to all those in the archives. As an update, my plan for the winter was to drop the differential and all rear suspension components. Clean, paint, new seals in diff, new trailing arm bushings, repair what I hoped was minor rust. All going well except the problem with the flanges and as suspected by one list member, more rust than expected. Had to remove the breastplate and cut out an additional seven sections. I plan to start fabricating the path pieces this weekend. Lots of fun. Thanks for the help on the flanges. Darcy Hunter No. Easton, MA '73 TR6 Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? To: Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Message-ID: <20080316212035.030B8187662 at autox.team.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" HI, Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious what others have done. Thanks! Rick Lambour 1970 TR-6 From aldwyn at sylvancircle.org Tue Mar 18 05:32:56 2008 From: aldwyn at sylvancircle.org (Aldwyn) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 08:32:56 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions In-Reply-To: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E0EE6@USCANCISNT05> References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E0EE6@USCANCISNT05> Message-ID: <47DFB678.2060008@sylvancircle.org> Is there anything at all gripable from the flange collar? When my main seal was leaking, we couldnt get it out. So my buddy grabbed some small metal shears/tin snips, and was able to get a bit of the tip between the diff and the flange collar. He then proceeded to bend the hell out of it until we were able to get some pliers in there to start moving it enough to break it free. - Aldwyn Hunter, Darcy wrote: > Rick's question below was convenient since I spent a few hours this past weekend cleaning and disassembling my differential with the intention of replacing the pilot shaft seals and the two side shaft seals. Current problem is that while the flange on the pilot shaft came off easy, the side flanges > refuse to budge. Sunday I ruined a cheap puller and went to get the best available at Autozone ($39.) and have really reamed on that baby with no results. They are soaking in penetrating oil now but looking for advice. Tighten harder? Go to a machine shop for a press? Apply my propane torch? > Any help appreciated. > > > > Well before I hit the send button, I did an archive search and found my answer. Machine shop with press is the only answer. I'll go that route and give an update. Thanks to all those in the archives. > > > > As an update, my plan for the winter was to drop the differential and all rear suspension components. Clean, paint, new seals in diff, new trailing arm bushings, repair what I hoped was minor rust. All going well except the problem with the flanges and as suspected by one list member, more rust > than expected. Had to remove the breastplate and cut out an additional seven sections. I plan to start fabricating the path pieces this weekend. Lots of fun. Thanks for the help on the flanges. > > > > Darcy Hunter > > No. Easton, MA > > '73 TR6 > > > > Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? > > To: > > Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net > > Message-ID: <20080316212035.030B8187662 at autox.team.net> > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > > > HI, > > > > Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily > driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious what others have done. > > > > Thanks! > > Rick Lambour > > > > 1970 TR-6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as aldwyn at sylvancircle.org From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Tue Mar 18 06:50:08 2008 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 09:50:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E0FCF@USCANCISNT05> No, you absolutely can't get at the seal unlike the pinion seal. I ripped the pinion seal out piece by piece like you did. Darcy -----Original Message----- From: Aldwyn [mailto:aldwyn at sylvancircle.org] Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 8:33 AM To: Hunter, Darcy Cc: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Questions Is there anything at all gripable from the flange collar? When my main seal was leaking, we couldnt get it out. So my buddy grabbed some small metal shears/tin snips, and was able to get a bit of the tip between the diff and the flange collar. He then proceeded to bend the hell out of it until we were able to get some pliers in there to start moving it enough to break it free. - Aldwyn Hunter, Darcy wrote: > Rick's question below was convenient since I spent a few hours this past weekend cleaning and disassembling my differential with the intention of replacing the pilot shaft seals and the two side shaft seals. Current problem is that while the flange on the pilot shaft came off easy, the side flanges > refuse to budge. Sunday I ruined a cheap puller and went to get the best available at Autozone ($39.) and have really reamed on that baby with no results. They are soaking in penetrating oil now but looking for advice. Tighten harder? Go to a machine shop for a press? Apply my propane torch? > Any help appreciated. > > Well before I hit the send button, I did an archive search and found my answer. Machine shop with press is the only answer. I'll go that route and give an update. Thanks to all those in the archives. >> > As an update, my plan for the winter was to drop the differential and all rear suspension components. Clean, paint, new seals in diff, new trailing arm bushings, repair what I hoped was minor rust. All going well except the problem with the flanges and as suspected by one list member, more rust > than expected. Had to remove the breastplate and cut out an additional seven sections. I plan to start fabricating the path pieces this weekend. Lots of fun. Thanks for the help on the flanges. > > Darcy Hunter From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Tue Mar 18 07:52:54 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 07:52:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions In-Reply-To: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E0EE6@USCANCISNT05> Message-ID: <000001c88907$bfbcd8a0$b1191718@computer> You mention doing an archive search; how is that done? Thanks, Jim -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hunter, Darcy Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 5:23 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions Rick's question below was convenient since I spent a few hours this past weekend cleaning and disassembling my differential with the intention of replacing the pilot shaft seals and the two side shaft seals. Current problem is that while the flange on the pilot shaft came off easy, the side flanges refuse to budge. Sunday I ruined a cheap puller and went to get the best available at Autozone ($39.) and have really reamed on that baby with no results. They are soaking in penetrating oil now but looking for advice. Tighten harder? Go to a machine shop for a press? Apply my propane torch? Any help appreciated. Well before I hit the send button, I did an archive search and found my answer. Machine shop with press is the only answer. I'll go that route and give an update. Thanks to all those in the archives. As an update, my plan for the winter was to drop the differential and all rear suspension components. Clean, paint, new seals in diff, new trailing arm bushings, repair what I hoped was minor rust. All going well except the problem with the flanges and as suspected by one list member, more rust than expected. Had to remove the breastplate and cut out an additional seven sections. I plan to start fabricating the path pieces this weekend. Lots of fun. Thanks for the help on the flanges. Darcy Hunter No. Easton, MA '73 TR6 Subject: [6pack] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? To: Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Message-ID: <20080316212035.030B8187662 at autox.team.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" HI, Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious what others have done. Thanks! Rick Lambour 1970 TR-6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 18 08:01:29 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 11:01:29 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions In-Reply-To: <000001c88907$bfbcd8a0$b1191718@computer> References: <000001c88907$bfbcd8a0$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: On Tue, 18 Mar 2008, jim hearn wrote: > You mention doing an archive search; how is that done? Thanks, Jim http://www.team.net/archive/ click on the list of interest and off you go! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Mar 18 08:39:10 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 08:39:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions In-Reply-To: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E0FCF@USCANCISNT05> References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E0FCF@USCANCISNT05> Message-ID: Darcy: There is a tool for this that makes it a 5 second job. It is called an "oil seal puller" and costs $4-5. Get it and use it, you will be glad you did. My pinion seal came out in one piece, in 5 seconds on the first try. You can also use it to pull freeze plugs - but that is ghetto engineering and I have NEVER tried it personally. As for the seals on the axle stubs, you need a hydraulic press to pop the assembly apart to change the seal. I put mine back together with anti-seize in an attempt to make it a task that can be done with a gear puller at home next time. Ask me in 10 years if it worked =:-o Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hunter, Darcy Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 6:50 AM To: 'Aldwyn' Cc: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Questions No, you absolutely can't get at the seal unlike the pinion seal. I ripped the pinion seal out piece by piece like you did. Darcy -----Original Message----- From: Aldwyn [mailto:aldwyn at sylvancircle.org] Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 8:33 AM To: Hunter, Darcy Cc: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Questions Is there anything at all gripable from the flange collar? When my main seal was leaking, we couldnt get it out. So my buddy grabbed some small metal shears/tin snips, and was able to get a bit of the tip between the diff and the flange collar. He then proceeded to bend the hell out of it until we were able to get some pliers in there to start moving it enough to break it free. - Aldwyn From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Tue Mar 18 09:26:51 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 09:26:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Need someone in the Dudley Mass Area Message-ID: <250876.2410.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hi, I'm looking for someone in the Dudley, Mass area to help retrieve some parts. Seller won't ship. Please write me offlist Thanks, Todd Bermudez ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From vcolper at yahoo.com Tue Mar 18 10:58:06 2008 From: vcolper at yahoo.com (Victor Colon) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 10:58:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale Message-ID: <518632.51155.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I'm being offered a 76 TR6 project. The bad: It was started by a body shop that obviously knows little about TRs. Floors, rear valance and the outer roccker arms were replaced with nice new parts, but the never locked the shell before removing the parts. The worst part is they only installed the outer rocker....not the inner sill, so its all distorted and loose. The good: It has an OD transmission and hard top (needs repairs). How much would this be worth? Any one need an OD tranny and a hard top? Keep in mind I'm in Puerto Rico.....shipping charges. Vic 73 TR6 in slooow restoration. Victor Colon --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From tr250 at mindspring.com Tue Mar 18 11:56:08 2008 From: tr250 at mindspring.com (Mark Walker) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 14:56:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6-Pack TRials Registration Open Message-ID: <008201c88929$b9e1da30$2da58e90$@com> Registration for the Trials in Townsend, Tennessee September 11, 12, 13 is now open. You can print a registration form at: http://www.6-pack.org/spaw/2008TRialsL.pdf More information is available at: http://www.6-pack.org/spaw/2008TrialsFlyer.pdf or you can email me at : tr250 at mindspring.com Mark Walker Host 2008 TRials From shannm2 at triad.rr.com Tue Mar 18 15:57:33 2008 From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 18:57:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros References: <008201c88929$b9e1da30$2da58e90$@com> Message-ID: <000501c8894b$7441f010$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> Does anybody know where I can source some uprated syncros for a TR6 gearbox? I've heard that Revington TR makes some but I've had no luck contacting them. At this point I'm wondering if they even exist. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance, -Shannon 72 TR6 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Mar 18 16:41:54 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 16:41:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros In-Reply-To: <000501c8894b$7441f010$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> References: <008201c88929$b9e1da30$2da58e90$@com> <000501c8894b$7441f010$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> Message-ID: Shannon: What exactly is the issue you are trying to solve? I have not heard of anyone complaining about the gearbox synchros before. There are many complaints about the TR6 drive line, but synchros are a new one. Are you having shifting problems that you feel would be helped by a more robust design? Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shannon Muncy Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 3:58 PM To: 6 Pack List Subject: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros Does anybody know where I can source some uprated syncros for a TR6 gearbox? I've heard that Revington TR makes some but I've had no luck contacting them. At this point I'm wondering if they even exist. Can anyone help? Thanks in advance, -Shannon 72 TR6 From rsh17 at msn.com Tue Mar 18 17:11:27 2008 From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 19:11:27 -0500 Subject: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros In-Reply-To: References: <008201c88929$b9e1da30$2da58e90$@com> <000501c8894b$7441f010$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> Message-ID: I'd be very carefully getting good sycros, some of the ones out there are trash, I bought some from NOS Locators (oh, maybe I shouldn't have mentioned there name) at the time I thought it was a good price.I believe some are of a different material. When I sent the tranny to Quantummechanics for a rebuild he said the sycros were junk. Take that for what it's worth. I don't have any advice on where to look for good ones though Richard Seaton RSH17 at msn.com View My 1969 TR6 restoration @ (http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration) OR http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92 _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From rlambour at comcast.net Tue Mar 18 17:38:43 2008 From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard and Tracy Lambour) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 20:38:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [net] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? In-Reply-To: <20080316202120.6329.qmail@mercury.mv.net> Message-ID: <20080319013652.B68EB18763D@autox.team.net> Hi, I got an enormous response to this question, and I wanted to thank all of you for the advice. Lots of opinions there. I'll drop the differential and inspect the mounting points hopefully fairly soon, and decide on the bushes after I see what shape they're in. No obvious cracks on the top side, so I have my fingers crossed. Rick Lambour 1970 TR-6 _____ From: owner-net at lists.mv.net [mailto:owner-net at lists.mv.net] On Behalf Of Richard and Tracy Lambour Sent: Sunday, March 16, 2008 4:22 PM To: net at lists.mv.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [net] Differential mount bushes - rubber or poly? HI, Dropping the differential for rebuilding and I was wondering what people liked for replacing the differential mounting bushes - rubber or polyurethane. This is part of a total rebuild of the car, and I'm trying to find a way to improve the handling without making the ride too harsh for daily driving. I'm leaning towards rubber for vibration isolation but am curious what others have done. Thanks! Rick Lambour 1970 TR-6 From shannm2 at triad.rr.com Tue Mar 18 19:13:08 2008 From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy) Date: Tue, 18 Mar 2008 22:13:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros References: Message-ID: <006701c88966$c660c7c0$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> List, Thanks for all the replies. I've ordered parts before from Revington and I agree they are a great vendor and a credit to the marque. With that being said, in addition to sending multiple emails, I've called Revington TR a couple times and left my information with whomever answered the phone. I have yet to receive a call back. I'll try again tomorrow. -Shannon ----- Original Message ----- From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com To: shannm2 at triad.rr.com Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 9:32 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros Shannon, Revington is a HIGHLY reliable source for uprated parts. Try this link http://www.revingtontr.com/shop/mainframe.asp Neil, has been racing Triumphs for many many years. Cheers, Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. From DLylis at aol.com Wed Mar 19 04:42:28 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 07:42:28 EDT Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale Message-ID: Victor, IMHO and having shipped cars to Puerto Rico, the shipping charges are about what it is worth. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001) From shannm2 at triad.rr.com Wed Mar 19 05:30:39 2008 From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (shannm2 at triad.rr.com) Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 8:30:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros Message-ID: <10602836.1591761205929839511.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web25-z02> List, To be fair, I called Revington again this morning. apparently, Neil Revington has been on holiday for the past 3 weeks and should be back tomorrow. Go figure!! Thanks, Shannon From alanatkinson at hotmail.com Wed Mar 19 19:45:39 2008 From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson) Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 22:45:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6-pack chapters - TriState area Message-ID: I've been kicking around the idea of trying to set up a chapter in the TriState area on the 6-pack website (which of course I encourage you to frequent as much as possible - www.6-pack.org). LITA is too far away for me. I'm in Westchester, NY. I figure I need at least 10 to make it worthwhile. I have 4 for sure so far. If you are interested, let me know and I'll set it up. You can email me at alanatkinson at 6-pack.org or pm me on the site - user alana Alan Atkinson 6-Pack Webmaster. _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_feb From apackard68 at comcast.net Wed Mar 19 21:00:59 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 20:00:59 -0800 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Parts back from powder coater Message-ID: <200803200301.m2K310Ra017676@upsa-web116.ofoto.com> It only took 8 days to get my parts back from the powder coater. I spread them out in my garage and snapped some pictures. I'll finally start putting things back together starting tomorrow! Andy TR250 CD6746L HVDA Soon to be in fewer parts You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.42yt7pgv&x=0&y=ejpmyz If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.42yt7pgv&x=0&y=ejpmyz From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Mar 19 20:10:03 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:10:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Parts back from powder coater In-Reply-To: <200803200301.m2K310Ra017676@upsa-web116.ofoto.com> References: <200803200301.m2K310Ra017676@upsa-web116.ofoto.com> Message-ID: <8CA584F06A72849-1228-25DA@mblk-d30.sysops.aol.com> Andy, They look fantastic!? Would you mind sharing information such as where you had the work done and the cost involved? Thanks, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: apackard68 at comcast.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 12:00 am Subject: [6pack] Parts back from powder coater It only took 8 days to get my parts back from the powder coater. I spread them out in my garage and snapped some pictures. I'll finally start putting things back together starting tomorrow! Andy TR250 CD6746L HVDA Soon to be in fewer parts You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.42yt7pgv&x=0&y=ejpmyz From apackard68 at comcast.net Wed Mar 19 23:10:53 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 19 Mar 2008 23:10:53 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Parts back from powder coater In-Reply-To: <8CA584F06A72849-1228-25DA@mblk-d30.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20080320071259.686BE187646@autox.team.net> Aaron: I used West Coast Specialty Coatings in Concord, CA, right around the corner from where I work in the Bay Area. They were very detailed about understanding what parts of the parts they were to mask, piece by piece. The parts were baked, media blasted, primed and finish coated, all in about a week. Just over $500 was the cost for all the items pictured, plus the two sheet metal pieces that trim out the corners of my backlight frame. They also quoted me a price of $140 to hot coat my headers in a stainless steel color. They explained my header (6-3-1 from Moss Europe) couldn't be longer than 5' in order to fit in their polisher (vibration type) and they would do inside and out for that price. I'll be dropping that piece off tomorrow. Andy _____ From: acekraut11 at aol.com [mailto:acekraut11 at aol.com] Sent: Wednesday, March 19, 2008 8:10 PM To: apackard68 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Parts back from powder coater Andy, They look fantastic! Would you mind sharing information such as where you had the work done and the cost involved? Thanks, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: apackard68 at comcast.net To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 12:00 am Subject: [6pack] Parts back from powder coater It only took 8 days to get my parts back from the powder coater. I spread them out in my garage and snapped some pictures. I'll finally start putting things back together starting tomorrow! Andy TR250 CD6746L HVDA Soon to be in fewer parts You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.42yt7pgv &x=0&y=ejpmyz _____ Supercharge your AIM. Get the AIM toolbar for your browser. From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Thu Mar 20 04:44:18 2008 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 07:44:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Diff flange removal update Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480A5E187E@USCANCISNT05> Today I went down to our machine shop where I had access to a 12 ton press. Used two 5/8 x 1 bars on edge to support the flange and started jacking. The first one came off like a shot and had my ears ringing for 15 minutes. Thank God I had on brown pants :-). Second one came off the same way but I was ready. No damage to anything. Take them home tonight and paint them then it's on to the metal work. Darcy Hunter Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 5:23 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: [6pack] Differential Questions Rick's question below was convenient since I spent a few hours this past weekend cleaning and disassembling my differential with the intention of replacing the pilot shaft seals and the two side shaft seals. Current problem is that while the flange on the pilot shaft came off easy, the side flanges refuse to budge. Sunday I ruined a cheap puller and went to get the best available at Autozone ($39.) and have really reamed on that baby with no results. They are soaking in penetrating oil now but looking for advice. Tighten harder? Go to a machine shop for a press? Apply my propane torch? Any help appreciated. Well before I hit the send button, I did an archive search and found my answer. Machine shop with press is the only answer. I'll go that route and give an update. Thanks to all those in the archives. As an update, my plan for the winter was to drop the differential and all rear suspension components. Clean, paint, new seals in diff, new trailing arm bushings, repair what I hoped was minor rust. All going well except the problem with the flanges and as suspected by one list member, more rust than expected. Had to remove the breastplate and cut out an additional seven sections. I plan to start fabricating the path pieces this weekend. Lots of fun. Thanks for the help on the flanges. Darcy Hunter No. Easton, MA '73 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Mar 20 07:11:39 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 10:11:39 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Parts back from powder coater In-Reply-To: <200803200301.m2K310Ra017676@upsa-web116.ofoto.com> References: <200803200301.m2K310Ra017676@upsa-web116.ofoto.com> Message-ID: Hi, The parts look great. I'm not trying to be funny here, but to get the powder coat paint to cure, you have to heat the parts to more than 200 degrees F. Does anyone know of that amount of heat effects the temper of the springs? I know new springs are powder coated, but I always wondered if the spring rate is effected by the process. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From rgperry at earthlink.net Thu Mar 20 07:33:50 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 09:33:50 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] In search of...uprated TR6 gearbox syncros Message-ID: <19117107.1206023630599.JavaMail.root@elwamui-hound.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Shannon, I just request a quote or ask questions by e-mail when dealing with Revington TR. There is a time zone difference since Revington TR is in the UK. Regards, Greg Perry From rclark at robertsonclark.com Thu Mar 20 09:58:38 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 09:58:38 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] List problems Message-ID: I am receiving notices from the list owner that it is receiving excessive bounce backs and sooner or later I'll be dropped from the list. I don't get a response to my inquiries about why this happening. Is anyone else having this problem or is my firewall that doesn't like the content of some messages. I find it odd that the Wedge list run by MIT doesn't have this problem. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Mar 20 10:12:11 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 13:12:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] List problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, 20 Mar 2008, Robert N. Clark wrote: > I am receiving notices from the list owner that it is receiving > excessive bounce backs and sooner or later I'll be dropped from the > list. I don't get a response to my inquiries about why this happening. > Is anyone else having this problem or is my firewall that doesn't like > the content of some messages. I find it odd that the Wedge list run by > MIT doesn't have this problem. The volume on the team.net servers is pretty large and the guy that runs it spends rediculous time tracking down various mail list issues. But because there is so much volume, some of the ISPs will sometimes block stuff from team.net. The volume on the wedge list is close to zero when compared to all the autox lists. So even if there was a large volume of spam from that machine, it probably wouldn't get shut off unless it go to really, really big volumes. FWIW, MIT gets pinned as a major spammer on a frequent basis by the big ISPs and our network folks have to deal with them regularly. Not that I know anything about MIT's mail servers, of course. :-) > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Mar 20 10:25:48 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 10:25:48 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] List problems In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob: Do you have an "out of office" tool running on your mail reader? The mailing list will get a bounce back from your mailer if this is the case, and the mailing list will complain. You know what I am talking about - the little robot that says "Thanks for sending a message to Bob. He can't read his email right now, so I am sending you a little reminder that it may be a while before he responds". Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert N. Clark Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2008 9:59 AM To: 6-Pack Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] List problems I am receiving notices from the list owner that it is receiving excessive bounce backs and sooner or later I'll be dropped from the list. I don't get a response to my inquiries about why this happening. Is anyone else having this problem or is my firewall that doesn't like the content of some messages. I find it odd that the Wedge list run by MIT doesn't have this problem. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From rclark at robertsonclark.com Thu Mar 20 10:42:54 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Thu, 20 Mar 2008 10:42:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [6-pack] List problems In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Vance, I don't use mine even when I am on vacation. I think it might have something to do with advertisements that are attached to certain emails that my firewall doesn't like. I guess I can always change my email to my home address but then what would entertain me at work? Bob - Bob: Do you have an "out of office" tool running on your mail reader? The mailing list will get a bounce back from your mailer if this is the case, and the mailing list will complain. You know what I am talking about - the little robot that says "Thanks for sending a message to Bob. He can't read his email right now, so I am sending you a little reminder that it may be a while before he responds". Vance From jmitch at snet.net Sat Mar 22 05:20:28 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 08:20:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Uprated front axles Message-ID: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net> I'm planning on rebuilding the front end on my TR6 and was wondering about A.R.E.'s uprated spindles. The car is a street driver and I've never noticed any brake kick back in a turn. Is this something I should include in a complete rebuild? Thanks, John Mitchell 76TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Mar 22 08:32:26 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:32:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels Message-ID: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc> Folks, Herman's 5 speed installation directions stress the use of the locating dowels between the engine backing plate and the tranny bell housing. Well....I don't have any locating dowels there. I've got them between the tranny and the bell housing but only bolts and/or studs between the backing plate and bell housing. There's two studs side by side at 12 o'clock. I'll be mounting the tranny to the engine with BOTH out of the car if that makes a difference. So is this lack of locating dowels a problem and, if so, what's the options? As always.....thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From anabil007 at comcast.net Sat Mar 22 08:45:08 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 08:45:08 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels In-Reply-To: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Hi Bob ... The dowels (as I have learned) are critical. If a previous owner has replaced them with studs ... that is a common error. I think you will find the list is pretty clear that you need the "proper" sized positioning dowel to make your installation as good as it can be. I believe the dowels are available from the big 3 >Folks, >Herman's 5 speed installation directions stress the use of the locating >dowels between the engine backing plate and the tranny bell housing. >Well....I don't have any locating dowels there. I've got them between the >tranny and the bell housing but only bolts and/or studs between the backing >plate and bell housing. There's two studs side by side at 12 o'clock. I'll >be mounting the tranny to the engine with BOTH out of the car if that makes >a difference. So is this lack of locating dowels a problem and, if so, >what's the options? > >A -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Mar 22 08:58:06 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:58:06 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels In-Reply-To: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c88c31$f06ef9b0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E956DF@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> If you don't have the proper dowels you could use two drill bits of the appropriate diameter instead and once you get the tranny bolted up remove the bits and insert those last two bolts. These dowels are/were available, I bought two of them last year when I had mine apart. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Saturday, March 22, 2008 11:32 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels Folks, Herman's 5 speed installation directions stress the use of the locating dowels between the engine backing plate and the tranny bell housing. Well....I don't have any locating dowels there. I've got them between the tranny and the bell housing but only bolts and/or studs between the backing plate and bell housing. There's two studs side by side at 12 o'clock. I'll be mounting the tranny to the engine with BOTH out of the car if that makes a difference. So is this lack of locating dowels a problem and, if so, what's the options? As always.....thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rgperry at earthlink.net Sat Mar 22 10:47:29 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:47:29 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels Message-ID: <8976766.1206208049569.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Bob, I just use 3/8 inch round steel rod from the hardware store. I use two 12" (or there about) pieces to make the alignment easier when mating the trans to the back plate. When finished just knock them out and put in the 3/8 bolts last. Regards, Greg Perry From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Mar 22 10:56:27 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:56:27 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Uprated front axles In-Reply-To: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net> References: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net> Message-ID: <47E5484B.40804@tscusa.org> John Mitchell wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the front end on my TR6 and was wondering > about A.R.E.'s uprated spindles. The car is a street driver and I've > never noticed any brake kick back in a turn. Is this something I should > include in a complete rebuild? Thanks, John Mitchell 76TR6 > > I think considering the age of our Triumphs, one concern has been stresses on and breakage of the front stub axle due to cracks, and if a bearing has been spun a few times. Some feel that this is a good reason to upgrade the axles to the Kastner influenced and stronger design simply due to ages and stresses. So one good idea may be to pull your stub axles, have them magnafluxed for cracks before you put it all back together. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From emanteno at comcast.net Sat Mar 22 11:00:19 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 18:00:19 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels Message-ID: <032220081800.20968.47E5493300036E10000051E82207024553970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Greg Perry > Bob, > > I just use 3/8 inch round steel rod from the hardware store. I use two 12" (or > there about) pieces to make the alignment easier when mating the trans to the > back plate. When finished just knock them out and put in the 3/8 bolts last. According to Herman, the difference between using the locating dowels and using bolts is enough to severely shorten the life of the clutch. If you are doing the 5 speed conversion, once you knock out the 12" rod, replace them with the dowels, not bolts. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From bcrouter at cicorp.sk.ca Sat Mar 22 11:50:53 2008 From: bcrouter at cicorp.sk.ca (Crouter, Bruce CIC) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:50:53 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine Message-ID: <06e901c88c4d$a7aa325b$e127f159@cicorp.sk.ca> Good afternoon all-knowing list! A friend of mine is interested in buying a circa 1971 TR6. It is not running and it won't come out of gear so we don't know if the engine will turn over and towing is an issue. The seller says the problem is that the overdrive solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being connected and therefore it won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or is their another likely reason? My TR6 is overdriveless so I know little about them. Any advice on how to disengage the engine from the drive train would be greatly appreciated. Is the overdrive switch on the steering column? Thanks in advance. Bruce Crouter 1975 TR6 Saskatchewan From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Mar 22 12:04:31 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 19:04:31 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine In-Reply-To: <06e901c88c4d$a7aa325b$e127f159@cicorp.sk.ca> References: <06e901c88c4d$a7aa325b$e127f159@cicorp.sk.ca> Message-ID: <849815206-1206212672-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2033209120-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Bruce, Respectfully....that's BS. Overdrive on would just put it a higher gear ratio. Problem is most likely hydraulic or broken clutch fork pin. If you trying to tow rear wheels on the ground, I would disconnect diff to prop shaft u-joint or tow backwards - front wheels on the ground. -----Original Message----- From: "Crouter, Bruce CIC" Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:50:53 To:<6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine Good afternoon all-knowing list! A friend of mine is interested in buying a circa 1971 TR6. It is not running and it won't come out of gear so we don't know if the engine will turn over and towing is an issue. The seller says the problem is that the overdrive solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being connected and therefore it won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or is their another likely reason? My TR6 is overdriveless so I know little about them. Any advice on how to disengage the engine from the drive train would be greatly appreciated. Is the overdrive switch on the steering column? Thanks in advance. Bruce Crouter 1975 TR6 Saskatchewan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Mar 22 12:07:01 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 12:07:01 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Sat, 22 Mar 2008 11:32:26 -0400 Message-ID: <9125-47E558D5-1045@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Bob D.---There are usually? two locating dowels included with the HDVA conversion kit. These dowels are a snug fit in the bellhousing, and a slip fit into e baclplate when mating the two components. If yours are painted over, you could clean out these two (originally) 3/8" holes th a drill bit, being careful to not oversize these holes. These holes are located at approx. eight and two o'clock. There were originally three threaded studs at the top of the engine. As othres have noted, these two dowels are important in ensuring that the clutch and the throwout bearing spin concentrically. Otherwise squeals and premature wear can occur where these two meet. Dick From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson Folks, Herman's 5 speed installation directions stress the use of the locating dowels between the engine backing plate and the tranny bell housing. Well....I don't have any locating dowels there. I've got them between the tranny and the bell housing but only bolts and/or studs between the backing plate and bell housing. There's two studs side by side at 12 o'clock. I'll be mounting the tranny to the engine with BOTH out of the car if that makes a difference. So is this lack of locating dowels a problem and, if so, what's the options? As always.....thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ______________________________________ From marc.nederkoorn at home.nl Sat Mar 22 12:29:51 2008 From: marc.nederkoorn at home.nl (Marc Nederkoorn) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 20:29:51 +0100 Subject: [6pack] Transmission Locating Dowels Message-ID: <002701c88c53$198f6020$0701a8c0@CP1262290A> Bob, List, I have found that the special bolts for the driveline flanges are the same diameter compared to the locating dowels. Length is somewhat shorter though. For the purpose of locating the tranny on the engine backplate however they work just fine: the precision shank just needs to stick a little bit through the backplate to center the tranny. And I happened to have a few of those arround when installing the tranny ;-) Regards, Marc From rgperry at earthlink.net Sat Mar 22 13:47:07 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 15:47:07 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine Message-ID: <14380301.1206218827473.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> The overdrive solenoid only engages the overdrive when energized. Therefore, the solenoid is in the off position without electricity. Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: "Crouter, Bruce CIC" >Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine The seller says the problem is that the overdrive >solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being connected and therefore it >won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or is their another likely >reason? >Bruce Crouter From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Mar 22 14:03:57 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:03:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Off Topic: C4 Corvette Message-ID: <051901c88c60$4106e8a0$64fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Not a Triumph topic, but since I rely on the Triumph lists for so much info on that front, I just wondered whether there were any Corvette owners out there who I could ask for help? I've just picked up an 87 C4 Corvette that is in need of a lot of TLC (why are old car guys so willing to take on rolling restro's?) ... it runs well and sound great (and next to the TR6, it is BIG car!!!), but it does need a lot of detail work. Incidentally, I have found two C4 forums and joined both, but it'll be a while before I learn how good the advice is (and where the Randall's, Vance's and Dick Taylor's of the 'vette world are). Be interesting to see how it performs in AutoX against the TR6! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 and now, 87 Corvette ************************************** From william.mcintire at wright.edu Sat Mar 22 14:10:10 2008 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 17:10:10 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine In-Reply-To: <14380301.1206218827473.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <14380301.1206218827473.JavaMail.root@elwamui-cypress.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: I agree the OD doesn't have squat to do with the problem. You also should be able to shift into or out of gear with the engine off without using the clutch. Maybe somebody's been into the trans and has it in 2 gears at once. Not sure how you'd do that without pulling the trans shift cover. Bill '70 6 original owner ----- Original Message ----- From: Greg Perry Date: Saturday, March 22, 2008 4:47 pm > -----Original Message----- > >From: "Crouter, Bruce CIC" > >Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine > The seller says the problem is that the overdrive > >solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being connected and > therefore it > >won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or is their > another likely > >reason? > >Bruce Crouter > _______________________________________________ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Mar 22 19:30:13 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 22:30:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Locating Dowels Part 2 Message-ID: <000601c88c8d$d4f17350$210110ac@bobspc> First off........thanks for all the feedback on the criticality of the transmission locating dowels. The two things I learned are that they ARE CRITICAL and that most people no longer have them! Herman called me tonight and he's sending a few replacement dowels along with the McMaster part number for the ones he uses. He may even include them in future kits. Thanks again for everyone's input and help. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Sat Mar 22 19:44:14 2008 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 22:44:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Locating Dowels Part 2 References: <000601c88c8d$d4f17350$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Nothing sexy here. The centering dowels for these cars are 1/4" pins that are available at any NAPA or other good auto parts store, possibly even the likes of an AutoZone or Advance Auto. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of Bob Danielson Sent: Sat 3/22/2008 10:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Locating Dowels Part 2 First off........thanks for all the feedback on the criticality of the transmission locating dowels. The two things I learned are that they ARE CRITICAL and that most people no longer have them! Herman called me tonight and he's sending a few replacement dowels along with the McMaster part number for the ones he uses. He may even include them in future kits. Thanks again for everyone's input and help. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From jimmble at roadrunner.com Sat Mar 22 20:26:39 2008 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (James Franks) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 23:26:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine In-Reply-To: <06e901c88c4d$a7aa325b$e127f159@cicorp.sk.ca> References: <06e901c88c4d$a7aa325b$e127f159@cicorp.sk.ca> Message-ID: <47E5CDEF.2040902@roadrunner.com> Explain what you mean by won't come out of gear. Is it say in third gear and the shifter is jammed? Or is it more like the parking brake is on where the wheels are locked? All the solenoid does is port hydraulic fluid in the OD. any locked situation is mechanical in nature. Worst case is a fragged OD. Certainly not a solenoid, but possibly a wrecked unidirectional clutch. Don't buy the car thinking it'll be a 200 dollar fix on the tranny. Pull the big plug off the bottom of the OD and see if you get metal chunks coming out in the oil. If so, expect the worst, that is a unit that may not be worth anything even as a core. To tow it get under and disconnect the driveshaft from the diff and wire it back so it is not going to wiggle back into the flange going down the road. Good luck! Jim Franks Crouter, Bruce CIC wrote: > Good afternoon all-knowing list! > > A friend of mine is interested in buying a circa 1971 TR6. It is not running > and it won't come out of gear so we don't know if the engine will turn over > and towing is an issue. The seller says the problem is that the overdrive > solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being connected and therefore it > won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or is their another likely > reason? My TR6 is overdriveless so I know little about them. Any advice on > how to disengage the engine from the drive train would be greatly appreciated. > Is the overdrive switch on the steering column? Thanks in advance. > > Bruce Crouter > 1975 TR6 > Saskatchewan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimmble at roadrunner.com From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 22 21:49:38 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 21:49:38 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine In-Reply-To: <06e901c88c4d$a7aa325b$e127f159@cicorp.sk.ca> Message-ID: <941026.41679.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bruce --- "Crouter, Bruce CIC" wrote: > Good afternoon all-knowing list! > > A friend of mine is interested in buying a circa > 1971 TR6. It is not running > and it won't come out of gear so we don't know if > the engine will turn over > and towing is an issue. The seller says the problem > is that the overdrive > solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being > connected and therefore it > won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or > is their another likely > reason? My TR6 is overdriveless so I know little > about them. Any advice on > how to disengage the engine from the drive train > would be greatly appreciated. > Is the overdrive switch on the steering column? > Thanks in advance. > > Bruce Crouter > 1975 TR6 > Saskatchewan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Sat Mar 22 21:51:40 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Sat, 22 Mar 2008 21:51:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine In-Reply-To: <06e901c88c4d$a7aa325b$e127f159@cicorp.sk.ca> Message-ID: <545364.20157.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Bruce, FWIW, I had a j-type overdrive that was 'stuck' in overdrive. It would move just fine...just not backwards. Not sure how the A-Types work when stuck in overdrive, but I suspect, the seller is talkin' smack! Cheers, Todd --- "Crouter, Bruce CIC" wrote: > Good afternoon all-knowing list! > > A friend of mine is interested in buying a circa > 1971 TR6. It is not running > and it won't come out of gear so we don't know if > the engine will turn over > and towing is an issue. The seller says the problem > is that the overdrive > solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being > connected and therefore it > won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or > is their another likely > reason? My TR6 is overdriveless so I know little > about them. Any advice on > how to disengage the engine from the drive train > would be greatly appreciated. > Is the overdrive switch on the steering column? > Thanks in advance. > > Bruce Crouter > 1975 TR6 > Saskatchewan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Sun Mar 23 08:16:14 2008 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 11:16:14 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Locked Engine References: <545364.20157.qm@web43138.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: None of these ODs will permit backing up when engaged due to the "free wheel," or unidirectional device. You need to look at a visual digram to understand this. I use mine as "hill hold" system. If I leave the car in gear with the OD engaged when it is facing uphill, this device will keep the car from rolling backwards. Flip the OD switch, and the car immediately rolls backwards. As Todd observes, if this is broken, which can happen but is very rare, it can jam the OD. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of Todd Bermudez Sent: Sun 3/23/2008 12:51 AM To: Crouter, Bruce CIC; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Locked Engine Bruce, FWIW, I had a j-type overdrive that was 'stuck' in overdrive. It would move just fine...just not backwards. Not sure how the A-Types work when stuck in overdrive, but I suspect, the seller is talkin' smack! Cheers, Todd --- "Crouter, Bruce CIC" wrote: > Good afternoon all-knowing list! > > A friend of mine is interested in buying a circa > 1971 TR6. It is not running > and it won't come out of gear so we don't know if > the engine will turn over > and towing is an issue. The seller says the problem > is that the overdrive > solenoid is locked on due to the battery not being > connected and therefore it > won't come out of gear. Does this make any sense or > is their another likely > reason? My TR6 is overdriveless so I know little > about them. Any advice on > how to disengage the engine from the drive train > would be greatly appreciated. > Is the overdrive switch on the steering column? > Thanks in advance. > > Bruce Crouter > 1975 TR6 > Saskatchewan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > _______________________________________________________________________ _____________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Mar 23 08:28:40 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 08:28:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Stuck Tranny Message-ID: <127723.7743.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Bruce, I agree with the others that it is unlikely that a stuck OD is the reason the trans won't come out of gear. If the shifting forks are in the trans properly I don't understand why it can't be placed into neutral by rocking it back and forth while putting a small amount of pressure on the shifting lever. It is much more likely that the clutch and pressure plate have rusted onto the flywheel from lack of use. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 with A type OD --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From trdoctor at aol.com Sun Mar 23 13:22:55 2008 From: trdoctor at aol.com (trdoctor at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 16:22:55 -0400 Subject: [6pack] tracing a TR3A In-Reply-To: <006a01c88d1b$030546d0$6501a8c0@yourus67pi6luv> References: <006a01c88d1b$030546d0$6501a8c0@yourus67pi6luv> Message-ID: <8CA5B3ACF5D4F1C-DCC-9288@webmail-ne14.sysops.aol.com> Don't recognize the car but I will post it to the Triumph lists.? Good luck. -----Original Message----- From: Mikel Dillon To: gctok at cox.net Sent: Sun, 23 Mar 2008 2:20 pm Subject: Fw: tracing a TR3A Does anyone recognize the car in the attached photo? ? - Mikel Dillon ? Green Country Triumphs newsletter editor ? ----- Original Message ----- From: bob To: gctok at cox.net Sent: Monday, March 17, 2008 4:46 PM Subject: tracing a TR3A Hi Samuel I am a TR enthusiast from England who recently thought that I'd purchased a TR3A from someone in Perry Oklahoma. To cut a very long story short, the 'gentleman' concerned has disappeared with the car (if it ever existed) and my money. The local police and a private investigator are out to find him, and I'm wondering if you might know of the car or recognise it if I were to send you some photos. I suspect that someone else owns it, but might be able to get some trace on the fraudster if I can speak to the owner. ? Thanks in anticipation ? Bob Broadbent [Image Removed] From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Mar 24 08:35:57 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 11:35:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Uprated front axles In-Reply-To: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net> References: <47E4F98C.8080809@snet.net> Message-ID: On Sat, 22 Mar 2008, John Mitchell wrote: > I'm planning on rebuilding the front end on my TR6 and was wondering > about A.R.E.'s uprated spindles. The car is a street driver and I've > never noticed any brake kick back in a turn. Is this something I should > include in a complete rebuild? Thanks, John Mitchell 76TR6 I have to data points to add to this one (somewhat behind on my e-mail, so apologies if the material has been covered). 1. if your spindles are perfect (and to determine this, you want to have them checked for cracks), then you don't need the beefy axles. However, to set expectations - keep in mind that we're talking 30-40 year old cars with parts - STRESSED PARTS - that have been through who knows how many stresses over that period. 2. if you ever drive on winding roads with "vigor" OR you autocross ever. The thing with the kickback is not so much that the workaround is tough, as you just pump the pedal once or twice and you have the brakes back. The thing is that if you're not used to such action, by the time your brain determines "oh ya, pad kickback", you might be too far out of control (or past the limit) to effectively "fix" it. Don't freak, though. Get the spindles and vertical links checked for cracks and the "go from there". As some of us have found, getting the old axle stubs out to install the new ones can be "lots of fun", and a lot of times when you pull the vert. link out of the trunnion you find "other problems" on those parts too. If I was doing a full front end restoration, I'd pull the parts and haul them to an automotive machinist to check for cracks and then buy what I need. If you pulling parts from a parts car, assume that the parts you pull might not be "serviceable". I have a stack of vertical links that I can't get apart (yet). But I live in the beneficiary region otherwise known as "the rust belt". All that said, the beefy axles are really nice and you won't be sorry that you laid out the money for them. Once installed, and especially for a street car, its a part that you won't have to worry about for a long, long time (if ever). Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From siberian at gmail.com Mon Mar 24 13:20:25 2008 From: siberian at gmail.com (John Armstrong) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 13:20:25 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Yet another Triumph for sale Message-ID: <36e916ee0803241320k7be33012w272819ca21744249@mail.gmail.com> Hi everyone, About 6 months ago I half-heartedly tried to sell my 1971 TR6 and thankfully none of you took me up on it. My wife, confronted with the lack of interest, had no choice but to let me keep it. Thanks for keeping the trust on that one. Now however we are preparing to move to a smaller home (but more expensive, thanks San Francisco Bay Area!) and this half disassembled Triumph will have no place there. Thus its time for it to go and I don't really care how much it goes for. Like I said, its a 1971 Tr6. It'll probably start up but its been in storage in my garage for 2 years while I was remodeling the house. It has a factory hard-top (was not original on the car though) and no overdrive. Right now the wings are off it and the interior is entirely stripped. All the parts are bagged and stuffed into plastic containers. Rust wise I think she's in good shape. There are a few minor spots on the sills where the drain eats it away but those are about 1.5" square and can easily be cut out and patched. The B-Pillers have surface rust but I ground most of it out and protected it. Thats it for rust. She'll need a new hood and front valance from a minor bender she had before I brought her home but its nothing significant. The diff mount is broken as expected as well. Don't get me wrong, she is rough. I bought her as a long term project but that was before 2 kids, a massive remodel and an unplanned relocation to a better school district. Make an offer and come get her. Please! I'll eventually get my dream of restoring a TR6 but not for the next few years. John in Half Moon Bay, CA. About 20 miles south of San Francisco. From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Mar 24 15:10:40 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 15:10:40 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Starting problems Message-ID: <430372.86132.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I recently bought a 69 TR 6 with no rust and a great body. It also has OD, wire wheels and 3 year old Michelin red line tires. I'm trying to evaluate the engine and trans before I decide whether to do a restoration or sell it. The 2nd owner had it since 1971 but parked it in his garage in 1991. In view of the fact that it hasn't run for 17 years I expected a bit of a challenge in getting it running but at the moment am stumped. I replaced the points, condenser, plugs and used the dist cap and wires off of my running 6. It looks like I'm now getting fire to all cylinders, which wasn't the case when I got it. I cleaned and refurbished the carbs, replaced the fuel pump and am using the tank off of my generator for a fuel supply to avoid possible junk from the tank. I have tried using starter fluid but haven't been able to get it running. I took the valve cover off and the valves seem to be moving properly though I haven't tried to check the timing. Does anyone have any ideas. Mike Lunsford, 1969, 1970 and 1971 TR6s. --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Mar 24 15:32:25 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 22:32:25 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Starting problems In-Reply-To: <430372.86132.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <430372.86132.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E956F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Mike, what about the carbs ?. They can get pretty gummed up just sitting for a few months without use. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 6:11 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Starting problems I recently bought a 69 TR 6 with no rust and a great body. It also has OD, wire wheels and 3 year old Michelin red line tires. I'm trying to evaluate the engine and trans before I decide whether to do a restoration or sell it. The 2nd owner had it since 1971 but parked it in his garage in 1991. In view of the fact that it hasn't run for 17 years I expected a bit of a challenge in getting it running but at the moment am stumped. I replaced the points, condenser, plugs and used the dist cap and wires off of my running 6. It looks like I'm now getting fire to all cylinders, which wasn't the case when I got it. I cleaned and refurbished the carbs, replaced the fuel pump and am using the tank off of my generator for a fuel supply to avoid possible junk from the tank. I have tried using starter fluid but haven't been able to get it running. I took the valve cover off and the valves seem to be moving properly though I haven't tried to check the timing. Does anyone have any ideas. Mike Lunsford, 1969, 1970 and 1971 TR6s. --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. _______________________________________________ From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Mar 24 16:05:24 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 18:05:24 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Starting problems Message-ID: <9664505.1206399924532.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Mike, My suggestions are the following: 1. Make sure the generator gas tank level is above the the fuel pump. 2. Check the ignition static timing. 3. verify compression. 4. Remember the basics, fuel vapor (air and fuel), compression and spark. Regards, Greg Perry From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Mar 24 16:22:08 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 18:22:08 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Starting problems Message-ID: <3260447.1206400928986.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Mike, After thoughts below: The 69 distributor could be 180 degrees out of phase. Since you used a working cap and wires, the order would be correct on the new cap but wrong for the 69 distributor. Check that the rotor points to number one when at the crank is at TDC. Also the timing chain could have jumped a tooth about 8 degrees difference. >Mike, > >My suggestions are the following: >1. Make sure the generator gas tank level is above the the fuel pump. >2. Check the ignition static timing. >3. verify compression. >4. Remember the basics, fuel vapor (air and fuel), compression and spark. > >Regards, >Greg Perry From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Mar 24 16:51:30 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 16:51:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Starting Problems Message-ID: <769754.86823.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> In response to the many helpful suggestions I received to my starting problem let me add the following: I replaced the coil with one that was working on my other car. I put new NGK BP6ES plugs on the car (it originally had some type of Champion resistor plugs), I checked every plug and wire and got a good spark from all of them. The auxilary gas tank is sitting on top of the battery therefore gravity should get gas to the carbs even though the gas line is running through the fuel pump. Compression is 135 across the board. I think I'm getting fuel to the cylinders though the plugs haven't been as wet as I thought they should be. I plan to double check the fuel supply and if necessary remove the intake manifold and see if there is some obstruction, Maybe some mud daubers have nested in the intake (just kidding). I'm hopeful after all the suggestions I have received that the problem is fuel supply related. I haven't resolved the possibility that the timing is off due to cam, timing chain or distributor issues but will check this out after I double check the fuel supply issues. Mike Lunsford --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Mon Mar 24 17:09:08 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 20:09:08 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Starting problems References: <430372.86132.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <006001c88e0c$728a30f0$c7fba8c0@hp> When you tried the starting fluid did it fire at all??? ----- Original Message ----- From: michael lunsford To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 6:10 PM Subject: [6pack] Starting problems I recently bought a 69 TR 6 with no rust and a great body. It also has OD, wire wheels and 3 year old Michelin red line tires. I'm trying to evaluate the engine and trans before I decide whether to do a restoration or sell it. The 2nd owner had it since 1971 but parked it in his garage in 1991. In view of the fact that it hasn't run for 17 years I expected a bit of a challenge in getting it running but at the moment am stumped. I replaced the points, condenser, plugs and used the dist cap and wires off of my running 6. It looks like I'm now getting fire to all cylinders, which wasn't the case when I got it. I cleaned and refurbished the carbs, replaced the fuel pump and am using the tank off of my generator for a fuel supply to avoid possible junk from the tank. I have tried using starter fluid but haven't been able to get it running. I took the valve cover off and the valves seem to be moving properly though I haven't tried to check the timing. Does anyone have any ideas. Mike Lunsford, 1969, 1970 and 1971 TR6s. --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.21.8/1340 - Release Date: 3/23/2008 6:50 PM From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Mar 24 17:39:03 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 20:39:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... Message-ID: <47E849A7.5090408@maine.rr.com> Hey List! I have pulled off m stock steering hub and wheel and am trying to replace it with a new Moto Lita model. I note that, upon attempting to install the new hub, the base of the new hub leaves quite a gap (0.300" ?), rather than seating flush against the horn ring/folded tabs steering column face. Is there a 'trick' to this or has anyone installed a MotoLita hub with their new wheel? Perhaps the taper of the hub needs to be opened a bit to accommodate the match the shaft taper below the splined section? Hope I'm making myself clear.... Any help appreciated! Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Mar 24 18:06:44 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 01:06:44 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Starting problems In-Reply-To: <3260447.1206400928986.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <3260447.1206400928986.JavaMail.root@elwamui-little.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: I've always wondered why the wires on my 69 don't match the picture in the Hayes manual. Once 20 years ago I moved them around to match the picture. Of course it wouldn't start, so I moved them back. (haha) Let me know if you need a description of how they are. I'm not sure they were just 180 off, but maybe so. It's been a long while ago. Sloane :) CC26455L> Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 18:22:08 -0500> From: rgperry at earthlink.net> To: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com> CC: 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Starting problems> > Mike,> > After thoughts below:> The 69 distributor could be 180 degrees out of phase. Since you used a working cap and wires, the order would be correct on the new cap but wrong for the 69 distributor. Check that the rotor points to number one when at the crank is at TDC. Also the timing chain could have jumped a tooth about 8 degrees difference.> > > >Mike,> >> >My suggestions are the following:> >1. Make sure the generator gas tank level is above the the fuel pump.> >2. Check the ignition static timing.> >3. verify compression.> >4. Remember the basics, fuel vapor (air and fuel), compression and spark.> >> >Regards,> >Greg Perry> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> > You are subscribed as im_sloane at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Windows Live Hotmail is giving away Zunes. http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/ZuneADay/?locale=en-US&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Mobi le_Zune_V3 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Mar 24 18:10:14 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:10:14 EDT Subject: [6pack] Starting Problems Message-ID: I had a similar problem with my 3A and a friend came over and moved the distributor through a wide range until the thing fired. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Mar 24 18:14:06 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:14:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Locating Dowel Part# Message-ID: <000901c88e15$87184030$210110ac@bobspc> Thanks for all the responses about transmission locating dowels and their importance. Herman seconded everything you told me and he's sending me a few that he buys from McMaster.com. It's part number 98381A624 and they're called Dowel Pins. The downside is you have to buy a box of 25 for $8.95. The upside is you'll have a lifetime supply. Thanks again. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Mar 24 18:19:33 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 01:19:33 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Starting Problems Message-ID: <1313351196-1206407974-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105032214-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I had that problem with my 72 after the rebuild, I had put the dizzy gear in wrong and the rotor was 180 out. I thought it could only go in one way, HA. Pulled the dizzy, the flange and swapped the gear around - fired up first time. Lou ------Original Message------ From: DLylis at aol.com Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net To: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com To: TR-6 list Sent: Mar 24, 2008 8:10 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Starting Problems I had a similar problem with my 3A and a friend came over and moved the distributor through a wide range until the thing fired. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=15?ncid=aolhom00030000000001) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Mon Mar 24 19:18:54 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 22:18:54 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Motor oil Message-ID: <00aa01c88e1e$933c3a20$c7fba8c0@hp> This was on my Harley list....thought it might apply to us TR-6 owners and also all us that use lawn mowers and garden tractors...and boats with older inboard engines... Bob From bdischer at blakedischer.com Mon Mar 24 20:06:29 2008 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 23:06:29 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 3 Locations for America's British Reliability Run Message-ID: <90701F93-E104-4BB2-B32C-A303380A69F7@blakedischer.com> America's British Reliability Run Includes Three Separate Runs for 2008 In it's sixth year, America's British Reliability Run is a challenging, but fun, driving event that so far has raised more than $130,000 for worthy children's charities. This year, three separate 800-mile runs on the same weekend, September 27-28, 2008, will benefit three highly-rated, local childrens' charities. One run starts in Michigan, another in Pennsylvania, and yet another in Alabama! Each two-person team pays their own expenses out-of-pocket and has a goal of raising $500 for the charity. Up to 40 British cars of any marque or vintage may participate in each run. Even if you can't participate in the run, please support this effort by making a donation of any size. Again, teams pay their own expenses, so 100% of your donation goes to the charity, please help us increase our total! To register your car, donate, or read more about the run, visit http://www.abrr.org. From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Mar 24 20:46:09 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 21:46:09 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Motor oil References: <00aa01c88e1e$933c3a20$c7fba8c0@hp> Message-ID: <013e01c88e2a$c34e0520$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Robert: This is very timely for me. I just drained the oil in my "other car", a classic Mini, and am puzzled about what oil to use. I recalled that in a previous discussion on the old car oil problem, someone had stated that they used Mobil oil. This Porsche centric article clearly states that Mobil has changed it's oil formulation. And worse, states that it is industry wide. http://www.lnengineering.com/oil.html "Porsche's recommendation in hand, our initial analysis from 2005 and 2006 and from virgin oil analyses going back to the 1990s, we found that then recent SH/SJ/SL formulations of Mobil lubricants tested, including Mobil 1, have had similar 0.12-0.14%or higher Zn and P content. Newer SM formulations of Mobil 1 have less Zn and P, most limited to 0.10% or less to meet ACEA or API requirements. This confirms the industry wide trend of the reduction of Zn and P from motor oils, with the eventual reduction to 0.06-0.08% or even worse, the elimination of these additives, which are essential to an aircooled Porsche engine's longevity." Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert McBride" To: "TR-6 list" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 8:18 PM Subject: [6pack] Motor oil From tomkate at shaw.ca Mon Mar 24 22:38:20 2008 From: tomkate at shaw.ca (tomkate at shaw.ca) Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 22:38:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... References: <47E849A7.5090408@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <006501c88e3a$6f368330$8400a8c0@desktop> Dave they look and feel good ,don't they !!!! I found the same with my Moto Lita when I inastalled it; I haven't gotten around to adjusting the taper yet Tom 75 tr6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Friedlander" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 5:39 PM Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... > Hey List! > > I have pulled off m stock steering hub and wheel and am trying to > replace it with a new Moto Lita model. I note that, upon attempting to > install the new hub, the base of the new hub leaves quite a gap (0.300" > ?), rather than seating flush against the horn ring/folded tabs steering > column face. Is there a 'trick' to this or has anyone installed a > MotoLita hub with their new wheel? Perhaps the taper of the hub needs to > be opened a bit to accommodate the match the shaft taper below the > splined section? > > Hope I'm making myself clear.... > > Any help appreciated! > > Dave Friedlander > CF25194U+O+TBI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tomkate at shaw.ca From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Mar 25 06:05:59 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 9:05:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... Message-ID: <19846796.631841206450359618.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Tom; Yes, the Moto Lita quality looks excellent! I don't understand, however: You say you've already installed yours? How did you get the hub to fit onto the steering column? On mine, it won't seat all the way down to the face of the horn ring.... I was considering opening up the taper st the back of the hub to let it seat completely..... Dave Friedlander '74-Six ---- tomkate at shaw.ca wrote: > Dave > they look and feel good ,don't they !!!! I found the same with my Moto > Lita when I installed it; I haven't gotten around to adjusting the taper > yet > > Tom 75 tr6 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "David Friedlander" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 5:39 PM > Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... > > > > Hey List! > > > > I have pulled off m stock steering hub and wheel and am trying to > > replace it with a new Moto Lita model. I note that, upon attempting to > > install the new hub, the base of the new hub leaves quite a gap (0.300" > > ?), rather than seating flush against the horn ring/folded tabs steering > > column face. Is there a 'trick' to this or has anyone installed a > > MotoLita hub with their new wheel? Perhaps the taper of the hub needs to > > be opened a bit to accommodate the match the shaft taper below the > > splined section? > > > > Hope I'm making myself clear.... > > > > Any help appreciated! > > > > Dave Friedlander > > CF25194U+O+TBI > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as tomkate at shaw.ca From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Mar 25 08:16:07 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 11:16:07 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... Message-ID: <10237653.645001206458168005.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Hey thanks, Bob! I'll give that a try. I assume there's enough upper column length to allow for that change of position.... Dave ---- Robert Lang wrote: > Hi, > > The "gap" can be filled in a couple of ways. The easiest is to loosen the > sterring column clamps under the dash and slide the column towards the > mouting hub for the wheel. > > It's pretty straight-forward. > > I had the same problem with the Grant wheel I use on both cars as that > need an adapter too. > > regards, > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent > Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! > Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Mar 25 09:03:29 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:03:29 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Paint on Block Question Message-ID: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc> Yesterday I painted the engine block and got a little over spray on the Manifold mating surface on the block. All the intake & exhaust ports were blocked off but some spray did get on that part of the block. In hindsight (being 20/20) I should have put the old manifold gasket on the engine to cover that area. My question is: Will the paint interfere with the sealing of the manifold gasket and if so, what's the best way to clean it up? Paint stripper? Acetone? Belt sander (just kidding). Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Mar 25 09:11:38 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 16:11:38 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Paint on Block Question In-Reply-To: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E95717@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bob, if you used POR you will probably need an angle grinder :-) If it is just overspray it will probably come off with some wire wool. If it is a thick layer and there is a lot of it I would probably try scraping it off and resort to solvent or chemicals as a last resort for fear of messing up the rest of it. I am about to paint my block this afternoon and I was dismayed that after visiting three local auto parts stores nobody had any brush on engine paint, only spray cans. I'm planning to spray some into a container so I can use a brush where I need to. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 12:03 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Paint on Block Question Yesterday I painted the engine block and got a little over spray on the Manifold mating surface on the block. All the intake & exhaust ports were blocked off but some spray did get on that part of the block. In hindsight (being 20/20) I should have put the old manifold gasket on the engine to cover that area. My question is: Will the paint interfere with the sealing of the manifold gasket and if so, what's the best way to clean it up? Paint stripper? Acetone? Belt sander (just kidding). Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 25 09:20:11 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:20:11 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... In-Reply-To: <10237653.645001206458168005.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web15-z02> References: <10237653.645001206458168005.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web15-z02> Message-ID: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008 forzion at maine.rr.com wrote: > Hey thanks, Bob! I'll give that a try. I assume there's enough upper > column length to allow for that change of position.... You can also lengthen / shorten the steering column by cracking the set screw with the big nut just forward of the firewall (and the clamp thingie with the 2 1/4-28 bolts). Me - I like the wheel to be a bit closer to me so a can get leverage when I need it... kind of like the roundy-round drivers sitting "up on the wheel". But there's a lot of adjustment available to you in the steering column. > Dave regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Mar 25 09:23:14 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 09:23:14 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Paint on Block Question In-Reply-To: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001a01c88e91$c6192d40$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: Lacquer thinner works best. Acetone will work with some rubbing. While I suspect that the gasket will seal just fine, I always wipe down the gasket surfaces with thinner after painting to make certain that the gasket will see nothing but clean metal. Call me anal, but what can I say? I was an abused child. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 9:03 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Paint on Block Question Yesterday I painted the engine block and got a little over spray on the Manifold mating surface on the block. All the intake & exhaust ports were blocked off but some spray did get on that part of the block. In hindsight (being 20/20) I should have put the old manifold gasket on the engine to cover that area. My question is: Will the paint interfere with the sealing of the manifold gasket and if so, what's the best way to clean it up? Paint stripper? Acetone? Belt sander (just kidding). Thanks Bob From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Mar 25 13:50:42 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 20:50:42 +0000 Subject: [6pack] K&N air filter Message-ID: Team, I can't remember if this has been covered before. Does anyone have any experience with K&N filters in the stock filter housing? I assume you need two of their part listed. Sloane :) '69-Six _________________________________________________________________ How well do you know your celebrity gossip? http://originals.msn.com/thebigdebate?ocid=T002MSN03N0707A From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Mar 25 14:29:45 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 17:29:45 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] K&N air filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Tue, 25 Mar 2008, im sloane wrote: > Team, > I can't remember if this has been covered before. Does anyone have any > experience with K&N filters in the stock filter housing? I assume you need two > of their part listed. I've used the ones in my street car for a wicked long time. Well over 12 years and probably 45k miles. I clean them once a year or so. This is in the stock canister. I don't recall the part numbers, I got 'em from TRF. I do recall there was some discussion about whether the current offerings from K&N would fit, but I don't recall the "conclusion". > Sloane :) > '69-Six rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Mar 25 15:48:12 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 15:48:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] K&N air filter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Yup ... fits and works fine, and yes you need two ... >Team, >I can't remember if this has been covered before. Does anyone have any >experience with K&N filters in the stock filter housing? I assume you need two >of their part listed. > >Sloane :) >'69-Six >_ -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Mar 25 18:03:24 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 18:03:24 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Starting problems In-Reply-To: im sloane 's message of Tue, 25 Mar 2008 01:06:44 +0000 Message-ID: <6985-47E9A0DC-9115@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Sloane---The engine should run with the sparkplug wires "different" from the illustration, so long as the firing order is correct and #1 plug wire is at the #1 cap terminal when #1 cylinder is supposed to fire. When wires get moved from "Ideal" is when cams are timed 180 out of phase, and then the distributor has to b turned 180 to match this. (To get the engine started) Another way is when the dist. drive gear is dropped into mesh with the cam drive gear, and is off by a tooth (25+ dist. deg.) or more. This then results in the dist. being twisted around to get the timing back. Nearly always the result of this is that the tach drive cable being at an odd angle relative to the firewall entrance hole. Best to follow the Bentley manual or other noted publication and their illustration, regarding the clocked position or the distributor drive gear. This should put #1 plug wire close to seven o'clock on the cap, when looking at it from over the brake master cylinder area Dick E-mail message Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: im_sloane at hotmail.com(im sloane) Date: Tue, Mar 25, 2008, 1:06am (PDT+7) To: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry), mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Starting problems I've always wondered why the wires on my 69 don't match the picture in the Hayes manual. Once 20 years ago I moved them around to match the picture. Of course it wouldn't start, so I moved them back. (haha) Let me know if you need a description of how they are. I'm not sure they were just 180 off, but maybe so. It's been a long while ago. Sloane :) CC26455L> Date: Mon, 24 Mar 2008 18:22:08 -0500> From: rgperry at earthlink.net> To: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com> CC: 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Starting problems> > Mike,> > After thoughts below:> The 69 distributor could be 180 degrees out of phase. Since you used a working cap and wires, the order would be correct on the new cap but wrong for the 69 distributor. Check that the rotor points to number one when at the crank is at TDC. Also the timing chain could have jumped a tooth about 8 degrees difference.> > > >Mike,> >> My suggestions are the following:> >1. Make sure the generator gas tank level is above the the fuel pump.> >2. Check the ignition static timing.> >3. verify compression.> >4. Remember the basics, fuel vapor (air and fuel), compression and spark.> >> >Regards,> >Greg Perry> From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Mar 25 18:30:15 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 01:30:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] C - shaped piece on the steering colum ? Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9572E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> 1974.5 TR6. On the outer steering column tube there are two C shaped things. One is a spring steel contraption that goes under the top part of the bracket that is closest to the dash. I can see that in the Bentley pictures. There is another C shaped and fairly substantial piece of metal that I recall hovers somewhere near the steering lock hole but I'm struggling to remember exactly where this fits and what it does. Anyone know ? Stan From johncnorth at gmail.com Wed Mar 26 04:32:13 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 07:32:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] C - shaped piece on the steering colum ? In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9572E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9572E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <49f668fe0803260432x42d6950eq90f08bf26b1647c6@mail.gmail.com> IIRC that is a spacer that goes on the outer column between the clamp right behind the dash and the ignition switch assembly. Perhaps this is only on the later column, and that's why it doesn't appear in all the catalogues. Be sure to put it on before you connect the outer column assembly to the lower column, or you will be taking it apart again. John North On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 9:30 PM, Foster, Stan wrote: > 1974.5 TR6. On the outer steering column tube there are two C shaped things. > One is a spring steel contraption that goes under the top part of the bracket > that is closest to the dash. I can see that in the Bentley pictures. > > There is another C shaped and fairly substantial piece of metal that I recall > hovers somewhere near the steering lock hole but I'm struggling to remember > exactly where this fits and what it does. > > Anyone know ? > > Stan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Mar 26 05:10:28 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 12:10:28 +0000 Subject: [6pack] C - shaped piece on the steering colum ? In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803260432x42d6950eq90f08bf26b1647c6@mail.gmail.com> References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9572E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <49f668fe0803260432x42d6950eq90f08bf26b1647c6@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E95731@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Thanks John. Now that the paint has dried I can see a couple of indents in the outer column that mark the former home of this spacer and it is indeed just north of the steering lock assembly between it and the bracket near the dash. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:32 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] C - shaped piece on the steering colum ? IIRC that is a spacer that goes on the outer column between the clamp right behind the dash and the ignition switch assembly. Perhaps this is only on the later column, and that's why it doesn't appear in all the catalogues. Be sure to put it on before you connect the outer column assembly to the lower column, or you will be taking it apart again. John North On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 9:30 PM, Foster, Stan wrote: > 1974.5 TR6. On the outer steering column tube there are two C shaped things. > One is a spring steel contraption that goes under the top part of the bracket > that is closest to the dash. I can see that in the Bentley pictures. > > There is another C shaped and fairly substantial piece of metal that I recall > hovers somewhere near the steering lock hole but I'm struggling to remember > exactly where this fits and what it does. > > Anyone know ? > > Stan From forzion at maine.rr.com Wed Mar 26 05:51:44 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 8:51:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... Message-ID: <32003052.822941206535904783.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web14-z02> I see. 3/8" seems like quite a gap, Tom. But, if you say it's worked fine for a dozen years, who can argue? Some listers havce given me some tips on adjusting the steering column length, that I'll try. You'd think Moto Lita would have a taper profile figured out that works better than this... Dave ---- tomkate at shaw.ca wrote: > Hi Dave > Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner, I'm doing an SU-HIF conversion > and just checked my e-mails now (i'm on the west coast). I have about > 3/8th's of an inch between the hub and the outside edge of the steering > column, the edge towards you from the signal arm etc.The horn has always > worked fine, but the spring contact sleeve can be hard to line up! I hate to > admit it but it has been this way for about a dozen years!!! I hope this > helps..cheers tom > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: > To: > Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 6:05 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... > > > > Tom; > > > > Yes, the Moto Lita quality looks excellent! I don't understand, however: > > You say you've already installed yours? How did you get the hub to fit > > onto the steering column? On mine, it won't seat all the way down to the > > face of the horn ring.... I was considering opening up the taper st the > > back of the hub to let it seat completely..... > > > > Dave Friedlander > > '74-Six > > > > ---- tomkate at shaw.ca wrote: > >> Dave > >> they look and feel good ,don't they !!!! I found the same with my > >> Moto > >> Lita when I installed it; I haven't gotten around to adjusting the taper > >> yet > >> > >> Tom 75 tr6 > >> > >> ----- Original Message ----- > >> From: "David Friedlander" > >> To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > >> Sent: Monday, March 24, 2008 5:39 PM > >> Subject: [6pack] Moto Lita Hub install.... > >> > >> > >> > Hey List! > >> > > >> > I have pulled off m stock steering hub and wheel and am trying to > >> > replace it with a new Moto Lita model. I note that, upon attempting to > >> > install the new hub, the base of the new hub leaves quite a gap (0.300" > >> > ?), rather than seating flush against the horn ring/folded tabs > >> > steering > >> > column face. Is there a 'trick' to this or has anyone installed a > >> > MotoLita hub with their new wheel? Perhaps the taper of the hub needs > >> > to > >> > be opened a bit to accommodate the match the shaft taper below the > >> > splined section? > >> > > >> > Hope I'm making myself clear.... > >> > > >> > Any help appreciated! > >> > > >> > Dave Friedlander > >> > CF25194U+O+TBI > >> > _______________________________________________ > >> > > >> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >> > > >> > 6pack at autox.team.net > >> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >> > > >> > http://www.team.net/archive > >> > > >> > You are subscribed as tomkate at shaw.ca From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Mar 26 07:09:14 2008 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 09:09:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> Fellow List Mates: I have decided to tackle the job of replacing my trailing arm bushings by myself. It looks fairly simple to do but I am not a mechanic and have limited work space & tools. Is there anything I should know about before attempting this on my own? Or, should I just take it to the foreign car guy and let him rip me a new one? Stuart Thompson '74 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Mar 26 07:24:50 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:24:50 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> References: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E95738@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Stuart, this is a very doable project. It is prone to pretty bad shipwrights disease (rust, hubs, brakes, brake pipes and hoses etc) but it is an opportunity to fix or refresh a lot of stuff with minimal stress other than helicoiling the TA's :-) Also an opportunity to consider goodparts brackets and bushes. I found this tip from Vance very useful for hassle free rubber bushing extraction. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/DSCN1652.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:09 AM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Fellow List Mates: I have decided to tackle the job of replacing my trailing arm bushings by myself. It looks fairly simple to do but I am not a mechanic and have limited work space & tools. Is there anything I should know about before attempting this on my own? Or, should I just take it to the foreign car guy and let him rip me a new one? Stuart Thompson '74 TR6 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Mar 26 07:33:23 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 07:33:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> References: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: Stuart: The job can be done with a good set of sockets, a jack, jack stands, and a tool to press out the bushings. The tool I used was a two jaw gear puller, available for a few bucks at an auto parts store. If you have a large enough socket, you can skip the gear puller, and use a long bolt from the junk drawer and a socket to press the bushings in and out. You can remove the suspension spring by hand after disconnecting the lever shock so that the arm will drop down low enough to take the pressure off the spring. You will not be able to get the bushings out unless you have some sort of tool, either purchased or home made. The bushings are a press fit and are the only challenge to the job. The rest is pretty basic. The first time you do this you will need to remove the trailing arm brackets from the frame - the bolts that secure the trailing arms to the brackets do not have a enough room to be removed with the brackets in place. HOWEVER, when reassembling, you can install the bolts in the opposite direction and if/when you need to access the trailing arms again you can leave the brackets attached to the frame. Cheers, Vance P.S. I reluctantly switched to urethane bushings as new rubber bushings only lasted 2 years before they started sagging again. Others on the list were saying "urethane" but I was afraid of squeaks. I should have listened the first time. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 7:09 AM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Fellow List Mates: I have decided to tackle the job of replacing my trailing arm bushings by myself. It looks fairly simple to do but I am not a mechanic and have limited work space & tools. Is there anything I should know about before attempting this on my own? Or, should I just take it to the foreign car guy and let him rip me a new one? Stuart Thompson '74 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Mar 26 07:38:08 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 14:38:08 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: References: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E95739@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I think the best cure for squeaky TA's is to fit grease nipples into the TA's below each bush and give them a shot from a grease gun once a year. You can see this illustrated in one of Roger Williams books. There may be other materials that don't squeak but I had birds twittering all last summer and it is really annoying. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:33 AM To: Stuart Thompson; 6 Pack list Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Stuart: The job can be done with a good set of sockets, a jack, jack stands, and a tool to press out the bushings. The tool I used was a two jaw gear puller, available for a few bucks at an auto parts store. If you have a large enough socket, you can skip the gear puller, and use a long bolt from the junk drawer and a socket to press the bushings in and out. You can remove the suspension spring by hand after disconnecting the lever shock so that the arm will drop down low enough to take the pressure off the spring. You will not be able to get the bushings out unless you have some sort of tool, either purchased or home made. The bushings are a press fit and are the only challenge to the job. The rest is pretty basic. The first time you do this you will need to remove the trailing arm brackets from the frame - the bolts that secure the trailing arms to the brackets do not have a enough room to be removed with the brackets in place. HOWEVER, when reassembling, you can install the bolts in the opposite direction and if/when you need to access the trailing arms again you can leave the brackets attached to the frame. Cheers, Vance P.S. I reluctantly switched to urethane bushings as new rubber bushings only lasted 2 years before they started sagging again. Others on the list were saying "urethane" but I was afraid of squeaks. I should have listened the first time. From jsvannorman at gmail.com Wed Mar 26 08:07:12 2008 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:07:12 -0400 Subject: [6pack] brake light bulb socket connection Message-ID: I started installing new tail light sockets I bought from bluechips on eBay (the ones with the dedicated ground tab) when a small case of shipwright's disease kicked in and I decided to go ahead and spruce up the entire trunk, er I mean boot. In my haste I forgot to record which wire goes on which tab when the brake light blub socket is installed. I am correct that once the socket is in place, the green-purple wire goes on the top tab and the red wire goes on the bottom tab? John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 CF 28149U -- www.vannorman.hobby-site.com From mgc4 at cdc.gov Wed Mar 26 08:59:05 2008 From: mgc4 at cdc.gov (Campsmith, Michael (CDC/CCID/NCHHSTP)) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 11:59:05 -0400 Subject: [6pack] FW: Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC609116B@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov> Stuart-- I would second all the messages on this thread, and strongly recommend you upgrade to the adjustable trailing arm brackets. They have to be one of the most task-simplifying things I ever added to my car. As far as removing the existing rubber bushings--I tried the sockets and gear pullers, all to no avail. My ghetto solution was to drill some holes longitudinally through the bushes and then insert a screw driver to lever them out. The number of holes will depend on how tight the bushes are, and you have to be careful not to nick up the inside of the trailing arm--also, the smell of burning rubber isn't that pleasant. But it was satisfying to go medieval on them after the polite method didn't yield results. Michael Campsmith 1974 TR6 (now BRG) -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+mgc4=cdc.gov at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+mgc4=cdc.gov at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:09 AM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Fellow List Mates: I have decided to tackle the job of replacing my trailing arm bushings by myself. It looks fairly simple to do but I am not a mechanic and have limited work space & tools. Is there anything I should know about before attempting this on my own? Or, should I just take it to the foreign car guy and let him rip me a new one? Stuart Thompson '74 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as mgc4 at cdc.gov From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Mar 26 10:51:48 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 13:51:48 -0400 Subject: [6pack] brake light bulb socket connection In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000001c88f6a$1296fed0$210110ac@bobspc> John sure if this (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TailLights.htm) will help or not. The G/P wire is brake lights and R is your tail lights. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John VanNorman Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 11:07 AM To: 6-Pack Subject: [6pack] brake light bulb socket connection I started installing new tail light sockets I bought from bluechips on eBay (the ones with the dedicated ground tab) when a small case of shipwright's disease kicked in and I decided to go ahead and spruce up the entire trunk, er I mean boot. In my haste I forgot to record which wire goes on which tab when the brake light blub socket is installed. I am correct that once the socket is in place, the green-purple wire goes on the top tab and the red wire goes on the bottom tab? John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 CF 28149U -- www.vannorman.hobby-site.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.87 / Virus Database: 269.22.0/1343 - Release Date: 3/25/2008 7:17 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Mar 26 10:58:42 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 13:58:42 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> References: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <000101c88f6b$0989fd50$210110ac@bobspc> Stuart, This may help (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm) It was very easy getting the old bushings out and there's lots of ways to do it. I even know people who have set them on fire to remove them. The only other piece of advice I'd give you is to note how many shims are behind each bracket and how many notches are in each bracket. That will save you some trouble when you put it all back together. Even if you were to install the Goodparts TA Kit, you'd need to know how many shims were used for each inner and outer bracket on both sides of the car. And then shipwrights disease will hit......gee...I might as well clean up the trailing arms while they're out. Maybe redo the rear brakes....and paint stuff.....oops a stripped TA hub bolt.....better get some Keen-serts and fix those. Now I wonder how hard it will be to drop the diff and inspect the mounts........might as well do new bushings while the diff's out.......and on and on and on! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Wednesday, March 26, 2008 10:09 AM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Fellow List Mates: I have decided to tackle the job of replacing my trailing arm bushings by myself. It looks fairly simple to do but I am not a mechanic and have limited work space & tools. Is there anything I should know about before attempting this on my own? Or, should I just take it to the foreign car guy and let him rip me a new one? Stuart Thompson '74 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.87 / Virus Database: 269.22.0/1343 - Release Date: 3/25/2008 7:17 PM From rsh17 at msn.com Wed Mar 26 16:01:26 2008 From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton) Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 18:01:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings... which not to use. In-Reply-To: <000101c88f6b$0989fd50$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000801c88f4a$f9136990$7407f746@Dell320> <000101c88f6b$0989fd50$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Just a note from my experience on the urethane bushings sold by one of the TR suppliers ( I won't mention the suppliers name publicly), they will elongate at the bolt hole even when greasing as recommended by the supplier. Save yourself the trouble and get Richard Good's nylatron bushings, or go w/ the STOCK rubber (yuck!!). Richard Seaton RSH17 at msn.com View My 1969 TR6 restoration @ (http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration) OR http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92 _________________________________________________________________ Watch Cause Effect, a show about real people making a real difference. Learn more. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_watchcause From johncnorth at gmail.com Thu Mar 27 06:04:18 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:04:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Message-ID: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both carbs. Any suggestions or advice? John North From grant at bowtie6.com Thu Mar 27 07:21:45 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:21:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000c01c89015$e36d1930$aa474b90$@com> John, You need to mount the sensors as close to the manifold as possible. This is why: in order for the sensors to come online, they need to heat up. The sooner they come online the quicker an FI PCM goes into closed loop. Are you running FI on your engine or are you hooking the o2 sensors to one of those meters that show the air/fuel ratio? Either way, the sensors need to heat up quickly before they can start giving proper readings. Don't dismiss my answer. The engine in my TR6 is indeed FI, with handmade headers. The O2 sensors are mounted on the very top of the collector. Click on the following link: http://www.bowtie6.com/repairs/cam54.jpg and that shows a pic of the engine in my TR6. You can see on the extreme bottom the header on the passenger side. You can see the O2 sensor sticking up from the top of the collector. In your case, I realize the bung cannot be welded on the top of the exhaust manifold like I did on mine. However, the O2 sensor can be placed on the pipe that attaches to the end of the manifold. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 09:04 To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both carbs. Any suggestions or advice? John North From triosan at gmail.com Thu Mar 27 07:52:29 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 07:52:29 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <000c01c89015$e36d1930$aa474b90$@com> References: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> <000c01c89015$e36d1930$aa474b90$@com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0803270752x1e7584b0w7ed3c19700b09916@mail.gmail.com> I have a pacesetter header [again, really liked the one from Kingston in England, but no time to get one this time]. The wide band O2 sensor is mounted on top of the collector -- just after the pipes all come together. This is a heated sensor. It is hooked to an Innovate wide band meter -- LM-1. This is a recording device also. I also got an LM-3 axillary box. This allows me to record the rpms [from the Crane ignition]. The LM-3 has a built in MAP sensor, so I have hooked the PI vacuum to it. Hope to have the car running this weekend. With this setup I can read MAP, RPM and O2 so can get the TR PI system dialed in. The devices allow 45 minutes of recording, so can capture actual run data. The Aux box also has built in linear and lateral accelerometers, so will be able to determine cornering forces and HP and Torque. A real rolling dyno of sorts. Results to follwo. On Thu, Mar 27, 2008 at 7:21 AM, Joseph Grant wrote: > John, > > You need to mount the sensors as close to the manifold as possible. This > is > why: in order for the sensors to come online, they need to heat up. The > sooner they come online the quicker an FI PCM goes into closed loop. Are > you running FI on your engine or are you hooking the o2 sensors to one of > those meters that show the air/fuel ratio? Either way, the sensors need > to > heat up quickly before they can start giving proper readings. > > Don't dismiss my answer. The engine in my TR6 is indeed FI, with handmade > headers. The O2 sensors are mounted on the very top of the collector. > Click on the following link: http://www.bowtie6.com/repairs/cam54.jpg and > that shows a pic of the engine in my TR6. You can see on the extreme > bottom > the header on the passenger side. You can see the O2 sensor sticking up > from the top of the collector. > > In your case, I realize the bung cannot be welded on the top of the > exhaust > manifold like I did on mine. However, the O2 sensor can be placed on the > pipe that attaches to the end of the manifold. > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John > North > Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 09:04 > To: Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations > > Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests > in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, > so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both > carbs. Any suggestions or advice? > > John North > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Thu Mar 27 08:33:16 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:33:16 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Message-ID: <47ECDDF4@webmail.colostate.edu> There are heated sensors that make placement less critical. On the dual down manifold, the manifold is open to both sides right above the mounting flange for the downpipes. Which would allow you to use just one O2 sensor and read all six cylinders at once. That might be a good spot, though you would have to weld in the bung to the cast iron manifold itself. Should be close enough for a non-heated O2 sensor. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Mar 27 08:26:55 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 08:26:55 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0803270752x1e7584b0w7ed3c19700b09916@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com><000c01c89015$e36d1930$aa474b90$@com> <8cbd782d0803270752x1e7584b0w7ed3c19700b09916@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Chuck: Wow! HIGH TECH. You are the MAN! I am not worthy, I am not worthy..... Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Chuck Arnold Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 7:52 AM To: Joseph Grant Cc: Triumph 6 Pack; Friends Subject: Re: [6pack] 02 sensor locations I have a pacesetter header [again, really liked the one from Kingston in England, but no time to get one this time]. The wide band O2 sensor is mounted on top of the collector -- just after the pipes all come together. This is a heated sensor. It is hooked to an Innovate wide band meter -- LM-1. This is a recording device also. I also got an LM-3 axillary box. This allows me to record the rpms [from the Crane ignition]. The LM-3 has a built in MAP sensor, so I have hooked the PI vacuum to it. Hope to have the car running this weekend. With this setup I can read MAP, RPM and O2 so can get the TR PI system dialed in. The devices allow 45 minutes of recording, so can capture actual run data. The Aux box also has built in linear and lateral accelerometers, so will be able to determine cornering forces and HP and Torque. A real rolling dyno of sorts. Results to follwo. From grant at bowtie6.com Thu Mar 27 08:37:11 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:37:11 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <47ECDDF4@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <47ECDDF4@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <000401c89020$6d45bfe0$47d13fa0$@com> Indeed the four wire sensors come up to heat quicker. Actually, I indeed used the heated four wire variety on my build. Once again, I wanted close-loop as fast as possible. This has come in even more handy due to the larger injectors and hot hi-lift cam I am running. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Shawn J. Loseke [mailto:sloseke at holly.colostate.edu] Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 11:33 To: Joseph Grant; John North; Triumph 6 Pack Subject: RE: [6pack] 02 sensor locations There are heated sensors that make placement less critical. From stuartt at tlthompson.com Thu Mar 27 09:07:17 2008 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 11:07:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings References: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC609116B@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov> Message-ID: <04d201c89026$37d3bf00$7407f746@Dell320> Thanks for all the great tips, advice, pictures, links, etc. This list is fantastic and I appreciate every response received. Hopefully I won't have any shipwrights disease...uh oh...crunch...what in the??!!##* From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 27 10:18:08 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 10:18:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Message-ID: <426869.80209.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi John, The Innovate manual for the LM-1 has some pointers on mounting the O2 sensor. If you're using a wideband type they actually warn about it getting too hot, and suggest a heat sink for when the O2 sensor must be placed very near the manifold. Also they say you want to vertically so condensate won't collect on the sensor an ruin it. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support.php Page 4,5,6 of the LM-1 manual. Kendall ----- Original Message ---- Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both carbs. Any suggestions or advice? John North From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Mar 27 10:44:50 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 13:44:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000a01c89032$434e5230$210110ac@bobspc> Nothing as fancy as the other guys are running but here's (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TBI_3.htm) where I mounted my O2 sensor when I did the TBI conversion. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 9:04 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both carbs. Any suggestions or advice? John North 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.87 / Virus Database: 269.22.1/1345 - Release Date: 3/26/2008 6:50 PM From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Mar 27 15:11:24 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 17:11:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] popping out of third gear References: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC609116B@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov> <04d201c89026$37d3bf00$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <004401c89058$3cbadc60$7401a8c0@garage.local> hi, all. simple question, i hope. i know it needs a rebuild, but can someone give me some specifics on what is wrong with an od tranny that pops out of third gear when decelerating? thanks. From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Mar 27 15:53:54 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 18:53:54 EDT Subject: [6pack] popping out of third gear Message-ID: Dave, Not a simple question...and I am not the expert. I have a TR6 transmission in my garage on the floor that has been worked over three times. I will be going into it for a 4th time, for hopefully a final fix. Frustrating, because I ran for several years with a transmission out of $75 parts car with no problems. Frustrating, also, because it is very distracting on long winded tracks like Road America. Popping out of gear indirectly caused terminal damage to our engine. First catastrophic engine failure in 14 years. Obvious Stuff............................. Check all of the specs in the manual Replace all worn parts Check for bent sliders Adjust detents within reason. Now, I have a document from Jon Wood of the UK, discussing the tooth configuration on the 3/4 synchro hubs....early and late configuration..... Also he says "dont use the flanged washer...use the later type.....or grind the flange .040." "Can also get hub spring preload spring shims from Moss" I have not studied this and his hand writing is hard to read, but I will share any information I have or acquire in the future. What I get from Jon....is that certain combinations of poorly engineering designs, coupled with wear, screws up a perfectly good transmission. After working for years with engineers and manufacturing folks, I understand how it happens. (The transmission that ran flawlessly for me for several years was out of TR4A IRS car. It apparently was very low time. I miss that transmission.) Again...no expert in transmissions here. I will forward my Jon Wood response to you in a separate attachment. Joe Alexander > hi, all. > > simple question, i hope. i know it needs a rebuild, but can someone give me > some specifics on what is wrong with an od tranny that pops out of third > gear when decelerating? > > thanks. > From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Mar 27 16:18:37 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 16:18:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] popping out of third gear In-Reply-To: <004401c89058$3cbadc60$7401a8c0@garage.local> References: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC609116B@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov><04d201c89026$37d3bf00$7407f746@Dell320> <004401c89058$3cbadc60$7401a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: Oliver: 1. Worn, bent or broken shift fork (Gear cannot fully engage, and therefore pops out easily). 2. Broken detent spring, worn detent ball or worn detent on the linkage (Insufficient force available to hold shift linkage in place). 3. Broken/Loose Transmission mount. Some less common causes: A. Worn Bearing(s) on first motion shaft B. Excessive end play on gear cluster. C. Worn/Damaged Synchro hub. The shift forks tend to wear in the TR6 tranny, although it is usually the 1-2 shift fork that wears the most (highest torque = highest wear). Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Thursday, March 27, 2008 3:11 PM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] popping out of third gear hi, all. simple question, i hope. i know it needs a rebuild, but can someone give me some specifics on what is wrong with an od tranny that pops out of third gear when decelerating? thanks. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Mar 27 23:09:06 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 23:09:06 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: "John North" 's message of Thu, 27 Mar 2008 09:04:18 -0400 Message-ID: <27008-47EC8B82-2425@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> John N.---Lots of good info from others on the list. Some really high tech! If you are just adding an 02 to connect to and A/F Monitor, rather than one that feeds info to a computer, it can be relatively simple. Nelson called me some years ago after knowing that I had the K&N A/F monitor/ 02 sensor kit installed. Being Nelson, he improved what I had so that he could read the output of both carburetors at the same time, using a sensor in each of the doubledown pipes, and feeding the reading to a dual monitor. Since I have only one carburetor, only one 02 was needed to get the A/F reading. Nor was it necessary to use the heated (3 wire) sensor. No "loop" to consider, and the 02 warms up quick enough for my purposes. So. If you are wanting to use an 02 as a tuning aid, rather than a control, You could do either of the following: Convert to a single downpipe, simlar to the early TR250/6, and weld the bung into the downpipe about 12 inches or so after the manifold flange mates to the downpipe. The 02 will heat up enough to produce a reading after about one minute of idling, or about 20 seconds on the road, from a cold startup. Under most conditions, the reading will be accurate so long as you don't stop the engine and let it cool. Or...Use two 02s and a toggle switch to send the reading to the monitor. You'll need to switch as you adjust the carb mixture. Kind of a pain, but once you get the mix right, you don't have to do this very often, in most cases, unless your engine is a work in progress. Dick tick-tock? From: johncnorth at gmail.com(John North) Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both carbs. Any suggestions or advice? John North From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Thu Mar 27 23:48:31 2008 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Thu, 27 Mar 2008 23:48:31 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] funny questions Message-ID: <746179.50430.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Does anyone have 4 of the fake minite wheels they just have to get rid of? Had 'en on my Spitfire but my son rearranged the sheetmetal on it and the wheels went with the insurance settlement. Now the TR6 is crying out for a set. Doesn't hurt to ask. John Summers Jacksonville fl ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Mar 28 06:45:26 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 09:45:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] popping out of third gear In-Reply-To: <004401c89058$3cbadc60$7401a8c0@garage.local> References: <751E75E14EA3D54FBD634BDE1E3ECAC609116B@LTA3VS002.ees.hhs.gov> <04d201c89026$37d3bf00$7407f746@Dell320> <004401c89058$3cbadc60$7401a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: On Thu, 27 Mar 2008, Oliver wrote: > hi, all. > > simple question, i hope. i know it needs a rebuild, but can someone give me > some specifics on what is wrong with an od tranny that pops out of third > gear when decelerating? Check the 3rd/4th synchro hub detent springs, check the shifter fork detent spring pressures (there's a spec in the Bentley book where you hang the top cover from the ceiling and use a fish scale to measure the weight it takes to pop out). If those are okay then you need to look into anything that's loose in the thranny (like excessive thrust washer clearance and or improper free play of the 2nd/3rd bushings. Thrust washer clearances and bushing free play both require a complete tear-down. FWIW, if you try to remedy the problem by holding the gear shifter in place you will put extra force on the small layshaft thrust washer and it'll wear even more quickly and the tranny will start popping out of second too. My suggestion - drain the fluid and look for metal. Gold is thrust washers and bushings, silver-grey is steel or aluminum. Those will tell you what's going on, but if the fluid is relatively clean, then pop the top and check the gearshift detents. Otherwise, the tranny has to come out. > thanks. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Mar 28 07:58:46 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 14:58:46 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing In-Reply-To: <003f01c888ac$b8fbeed0$54f30818@rolofson> References: <003f01c888ac$b8fbeed0$54f30818@rolofson> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Question about the Calyx... Is this something that you have to apply and immediately install and get hot before the finish is fixed or is it something that you could apply, leave sitting around for a few weeks and then install with no detrimental affect ? Stan From: levilevi [mailto:levilevi at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 12:01 AM To: 6-Pack; Foster, Stan; Robert N. Clark Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing I tried this and thought it held up well for what it was. For me the Calyx was a way to dress up the rusted, calico cat colored, stock exhaust manifold until I decided whether to put headers on or not. The calyx went on easy and held up for a season which was way easier than taking it apart just for looks when I potentially had other plans. It didn't smoke, smell, or change color...I did have to touch it up after a few months but very little. Given the ease, value, satisfaction, and the advantages of procrastination I'd say give it a try. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Fri Mar 28 08:38:52 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 11:38:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Off-topic request References: Message-ID: > From: Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> > Date: March 28, 2008 11:32:27 AM EDT > To: Triumph List , 6pack Email List <6pack at autox.team.net > > > Subject: Off-topic request > > > Please pardon the off-topic post/request, but my son needs some help > on a school project. My wife and I have spoken to our traditional > family, but they can be pretty lame and don't represent many > states. So, I thought I'd turn to my Triumph family. My son needs > postcards from any and all states for a class project. His name is > Davis Little so you should mail it to: > >> Davis Little >> c/o Mrs. Druckers Class >> Saint Martin's Episcopal School >> 3110-A Ashford Dunwoody Road >> Atlanta, GA 30319 > > > > Thanks for your indulgence. Now back to LBC material. > > Ashford Little > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > membership at 6-pack.org > '70 TR6 > > > >> >> Subject: March Reading/Postcard Project >> >> >> Dear Parents, >> >> Before Spring Break I requested that you and your family/friends >> mail postcards to the children at school. Thank you to everyone >> who has had postcards sent to their child! We are trying to >> collect postcards from across the USA. The class will be counting >> the postcards, sorting them by states, and conducting some math >> word problems with them. We will use the postcards when we talk >> about the individual states, too. Please ask all of your friends >> and family members to mail postcards to your child at school. This >> afternoon the children made lists of everyone that they would like >> to receive postcards from and brought them home in their homework >> folders. Please send the postcards to: >> Your Child's Name >> c/o Mrs. Druckers Class >> Saint Martin's Episcopal School >> 3110-A Ashford Dunwoody Road >> Atlanta, GA 30319 >> Thank you, >> Merryl From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Mar 28 09:28:04 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:28:04 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <003f01c888ac$b8fbeed0$54f30818@rolofson> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Just talked to George at Calyx (nice guy) he explained the procedure for finishing the manifold up to two months before they are installed. 1. Media blast the manifold to remove rust etc 2. Wipe down with something that will remove all traces of oil including that from you handling it. Suggested lacquer thinners 3. Use a toothbrush to work the product into a small area just to get a feel for how it goes on. Work it into the pores but don't leave the pores full of the product. It goes on very sparingly and there is enough product in the small container for 4 or 5 four cylinder manifolds. 4. After the trial area, finish the whole manifold. 5. Take a fingernail brush (or a small shoe brush) and buff the manifold until it shines. This will also have the affect of further evening out the finish. 6. If the manifold is not going to be installed, wrap it in newspaper and store it in the house where it is cool and dry. The newspaper will keep moisture out as well as absorb any moisture coming off the manifold. 7. When ready, up to two months later, install manifold on the car and run the engine. The finish cannot be cured in an oven 8. Any dressing that does not get fixed to the manifold as part of the curing process (ie excess finish) will turn to dust. You can brush it off. 9. The finish should last for 4-5 years before needing to be touched up. When it does, just touch up the area that needs refinishing. 10. There was no point 10 but I would like to add that I'm getting pretty fed up with this winter. It is snowing again today here in northern MA and I am ready to move on to spring.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 10:59 AM To: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing Question about the Calyx... Is this something that you have to apply and immediately install and get hot before the finish is fixed or is it something that you could apply, leave sitting around for a few weeks and then install with no detrimental affect ? Stan From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Mar 28 10:02:35 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 13:02:35 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <003f01c888ac$b8fbeed0$54f30818@rolofson> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576E@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: On Fri, 28 Mar 2008, Foster, Stan wrote: > 10. There was no point 10 but I would like to add that I'm getting > pretty fed up with this winter. It is snowing again today here in > northern MA and I am ready to move on to spring.. Stan - it's all my fault! After I got back SAT, I spent a couple of hours moving my Triumphs around so that I might drive on this coming weekend. All I can say is - it's a good thing I didn't take the snow tires of the daily driver, otherwise the snow line would have dropped the other 30 miles to Boston! But to be honest, I KNEW that we'd get more snow after I saw the street sweepers out last week! > Stan --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Mar 28 10:56:49 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 13:56:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Off Topic Dodge Neon Question Message-ID: <8CA5F143AE114D7-16EC-5B3@FWM-D12.sysops.aol.com> Sorry to bomb the list.? I have tried to find information on the web without much luck.? I am trying to figure out the source of a leak in the coolant system of a 98 Dodge Neon. I will have to purchase a repair manual but thought I would pick the brains of the list.? Anyone familiar with these "wonderful" cars?? Please reply off list so as not to clog up the list with more off topic stuff. Thanks, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Mar 28 12:59:02 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:59:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions Message-ID: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc> Having spent the past few months taking more of my car apart at the same time then ever before, the assortment of fasteners used has piqued my curiosity. I'm sure there are engineering and mechanical reasons for what's used but a couple of things stand out. It seems that every bolt/nut is a fine thread instead of a coarse thread and wonder why. Do fine threads offer more holding power because there's more threads per inch or are there other reasons? It seems that a fine thread would/could strip easier......especially in an aluminum component. There's a mishmash of bolts with Nyloc nuts & split washers and bolts with regular nuts and split washers. I thought maybe the Nyloc worked better in a component prone to vibration but....heck our whole cars vibrate! So why one over the other? And then there's the "modern" products to hold parts in place (red & blue Loctite) and anti-seize to let other parts come apart more easily. Someone could probably write a book on just their use! If I knew then what I know now, I would have ordered from McMaster boxes of bolts, nuts and washers rather then buying them locally in twosies and threesies! I probably would have saved 50% over the big box stores. Thanks Bob.........engine and tranny going back in this week...maybe Sunday! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Mar 28 13:12:06 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:12:06 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions In-Reply-To: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000901c8910f$ff4c0c10$fde42430$@com> Every fastener was replaced on my TR6 when I put it back together - I don't believe in re-using old, 30+ year old hardware. Every fastener holding suspension, engine, tranny, body mounts, etc is Grade 8. The only non-grade 8's are the fasteners that are exposed directly to element such as the ones that hold the fenders to the body shell. Those are stainless. Finally, just about every nut is Nyloc unless of course, it is designed not to do so. For example, the nuts holding the halfshafts to my R200 short nose differential are special Nissan metric locking nuts. EVERY bolt on my car has anti-seize. I did this because I know one day I will take it apart and don't want to worry about galling bolts. I use LocTite very sparingly and only under certain conditions. Once again, components will need to be taken apart and I don't want to end up breaking something in order to do so. I have also safety wired all bolts that hold calipers (front and back) in place. Header bolts are also safety wired in place. I restored my daily driver 11 years ago. It is an '84 XJ6 Jaguar with an LT1 Vette engine. I used the same techniques as I did on my TR6 regarding bolts. Not once have I had any issues or failures. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Mar 28 13:30:58 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 16:30:58 EDT Subject: [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions Message-ID: Short response: Typically, you will find coarse threads in cast iron. Coarse works very well in aluminum, too, but exceptions may be seen. I have done away with lock washers and use Loc-Tite. (so has a major tractor manufacturer following an extensive study) I like Nyloc nuts...especially on things like throttle linkages. Sometimes I like to use stainless steel cap screws. Mostly cosmetic reasons. Tractor Supply sells some hardware by the pound...much cheaper than per piece at ACE Hardware. Joe A > Having spent the past few months taking more of my car apart at the same > time then ever before, the assortment of fasteners used has piqued my > curiosity. I'm sure there are engineering and mechanical reasons for what's > used but a couple of things stand out. > > It seems that every bolt/nut is a fine thread instead of a coarse thread and > wonder why. Do fine threads offer more holding power because there's more > threads per inch or are there other reasons? It seems that a fine thread > would/could strip easier......especially in an aluminum component. > > There's a mishmash of bolts with Nyloc nuts & split washers and bolts with > regular nuts and split washers. I thought maybe the Nyloc worked better in a > component prone to vibration but....heck our whole cars vibrate! So why one > over the other? > > And then there's the "modern" products to hold parts in place (red & blue > Loctite) and anti-seize to let other parts come apart more easily. Someone > could probably write a book on just their use! > > If I knew then what I know now, I would have ordered from McMaster boxes of > bolts, nuts and washers rather then buying them locally in twosies and > threesies! I probably would have saved 50% over the big box stores. > > Thanks > > Bob.........engine and tranny going back in this week...maybe Sunday! > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > From k6na at cts.com Fri Mar 28 15:06:57 2008 From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:06:57 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Assorted Fastener Questions In-Reply-To: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000101c8910e$2d810920$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080328220657.BBE0E24B97@marlborough.concentric.com> Bob, The detailed answers you seek are found in Carroll Smith's Nuts, Bolts, Fasteners and Plumbing Handbook, published by MBI Publishing Company. I'm not a racer (and didn't even stay at a Holiday Inn Express last night) but many racers use this book as their fastener reference. There's a web address stated on the back cover: www.motorbooks.com I haven't checked to see if the site is current, but if you have trouble finding the book let me know. There is other contact information. Glenn/San Diego 6's At 12:59 PM 3/28/2008, you wrote: >Having spent the past few months taking more of my car apart at the same >time then ever before, the assortment of fasteners used snipped From johnehorton at yahoo.com Fri Mar 28 15:09:35 2008 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:09:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Steering Message-ID: <883854.3790.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> My 76TR6 developed a sloppy steering due to failure of the rubber mounts. I was turning about 1/4 turn before and change in direction. I built a set of aluminum blocks to hard mount the rack. The first test showed the looseness ans GONE. No slop in the wheel. They way the standard steering is setup there is a slight looseness built in by using the rubber mounts. I much prefer the hard mounting as I get complete road feel. I am going to redesign the mounts again by making the 1.065 dia hole completely round and expanding it accommodate a small neoprene sleeve. Instead of the "U" bolt I will use socket head cap screws. John H. 76TR6 79TR7 81TR8 --------------------------------- OMG, Sweet deal for Yahoo! users/friends: Get A Month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. W00t From callen at molycop.ca Fri Mar 28 15:31:26 2008 From: callen at molycop.ca (Calvin Allen) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:31:26 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0803270604mde0a8bfo614243ab473a8d5d@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001701c89123$76c69db0$1100000a@molycop.ca> I have a TR6 with a standard exhaust manifold. I drilled two holes in the manifold(One in Each Bank) to mount O2 sensors. I have run the car for 1 year without any concerns. I thought the manifold might crack, however no problems or leaks. I have the TBI conversion running with a megasquirt ecm. 73TR6 Calvin Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both carbs. Any suggestions or advice? John North 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as callen at molycop.ca From callen at molycop.ca Fri Mar 28 15:51:27 2008 From: callen at molycop.ca (Calvin Allen) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 15:51:27 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <592605.21963.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <592605.21963.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001901c89126$4241c350$1100000a@molycop.ca> Hi Kendall It is a very good time to get a photos to you as I have the motor out right now. I built a higher compression motor this winter and it is going in this weekend. I will get you some photos of the conversion parts including the o2 sensors. Calvin -----Original Message----- From: Kendall Larsen [mailto:mailkendall at sbcglobal.net] Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 3:41 PM To: Calvin Allen Subject: Re: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Hi Calvin, Interesting! Do you have any pictures? Kendall ----- Original Message ---- From: Calvin Allen To: Triumph 6 Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 3:31:26 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] 02 sensor locations I have a TR6 with a standard exhaust manifold. I drilled two holes in the manifold(One in Each Bank) to mount O2 sensors. I have run the car for 1 year without any concerns. I thought the manifold might crack, however no problems or leaks. I have the TBI conversion running with a megasquirt ecm. 73TR6 Calvin Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Where is the best place to locate sensors... Nelson Reidell suggests in the middle of the down pipes. I have the 76 double pipe system, so I guess I need two sensors and a switch to get readings off both carbs. Any suggestions or advice? From halmorton at cableone.net Fri Mar 28 19:02:40 2008 From: halmorton at cableone.net (Harold Morton) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 21:02:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] "Other" number on engine boss? Message-ID: <000c01c89140$f872b2a0$76e05c45@homec5af63afb5> List, Looking closely at the engine serial number on the block's boss, I noticed that there is a much smaller set of numbers stamped in it. It appears to be an"11" over a "27", with a horizontal line in between. As if it were the fraction eleven twenty-sevenths. This seems to have been stamped previous to the engine serial number. That is, it seems to be "under" the serial number stamping, and slightly distorted by it. Anybody know what this is? Jonmac? I can't seem to find reference to this in the archives or with other web searches. A date , maybe? Some kind of foundry casting code. Obviously, this is not of great importance, but I will admit that the (only) thing I have in common with cats is a sometimes potentially fatal curiosity. - Almost forgot, car is a TR250, engine number CC46XX. (X's meaning I forget the last 2 digits.) Any enlightenment will be appreciated. Hal Morton From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Mar 28 22:02:02 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 23:02:02 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TTA Pledges, Holdouts, and Pink Floyd Message-ID: <47EDCD4A.2050508@tscusa.org> Hi All, A man is only as good as his word. Your word is your bond. Theme song for this Charity Drive is "On the Turning Away" by Pink Floyd. Have a listen to the words, read them below, then get your checkbook out, write that check and get it into the mail! On the turning away From the pale and downtrodden And the words they say Which we won't understand "Don't accept that what's happening Is just a case of others' suffering Or you'll find that you're joining in The turning away" It's a sin that somehow Light is changing to shadow And casting its shroud Over all we have known Unaware how the ranks have grown Driven on by a heart of stone We could find that we're all alone In the dream of the proud On the wings of the night As the daytime is stirring Where the speechless unite In a silent accord Using words you will find are strange And mesmerized as they light the flame Feel the new wind of change On the wings of the night No more turning away From the weak and the weary No more turning away From the coldness inside Just a world that we all must share It's not enough just to stand and stare Is it only a dream that there'll be No more turning away? goto: http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/ Thanks! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From levilevi at comcast.net Fri Mar 28 22:56:30 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Fri, 28 Mar 2008 23:56:30 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing References: <003f01c888ac$b8fbeed0$54f30818@rolofson> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E9576B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002501c89161$a319ee60$54f30818@rolofson> Stan, I applied it with the exhaust in place and it sat there for awhile before I drove it and it got hot. But getting hot doesn't seem to change the Calyx at all so I don't think it needs a "break in" of sorts. I don't think its that picky about whether it sits or not or gets hot or not. It pretty much stays looking like it did when you put it on. Regards Bud 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Foster, Stan To: 6-Pack Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 8:58 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing Question about the Calyx... Is this something that you have to apply and immediately install and get hot before the finish is fixed or is it something that you could apply, leave sitting around for a few weeks and then install with no detrimental affect ? Stan From: levilevi [mailto:levilevi at comcast.net] Sent: Tuesday, March 18, 2008 12:01 AM To: 6-Pack; Foster, Stan; Robert N. Clark Subject: Re: [6pack] Exhaust manifold finishing I tried this and thought it held up well for what it was. For me the Calyx was a way to dress up the rusted, calico cat colored, stock exhaust manifold until I decided whether to put headers on or not. The calyx went on easy and held up for a season which was way easier than taking it apart just for looks when I potentially had other plans. It didn't smoke, smell, or change color...I did have to touch it up after a few months but very little. Given the ease, value, satisfaction, and the advantages of procrastination I'd say give it a try. Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sat Mar 29 13:35:33 2008 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 16:35:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question Message-ID: <20080329203532.WYLA17539.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> List: One of the nuts that is used to secure the hardtop to the top of the windscreen has come loose so the securing bolt spins freely. I had to cut the bolt head off to remove the hardtop. I removed part of the weather stripping and headliner to see what can be done, but am puzzled. I really can't see what is going on with removing most of the headliner. I can feel a bracket welded to the hardtop that the nut resides in. Anyone ever fixed one of these? My short term solution is to use just the other bolt to secure the top since there would still be a total 5 bolts in place. Thanks in advance and hope to see some of you at The Gathering British Car Show in North Carolina April 18-20. Cheers, Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 CF35914U From rgperry at earthlink.net Sat Mar 29 17:43:28 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sat, 29 Mar 2008 19:43:28 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question Message-ID: <12524674.1206837808790.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Jim, In my case I had one nut missing in the hardtop. My solution was to put a USS square nut in the welded cage. The cage has one side not welded so that one can lift/ bend the tab up to get the nut into the cage. Then close the tab with the nut in the cage. I then use one USS and one SAE bolt to tighten down the front of the top to the windshield. Regards, Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: James Henningsen >One of the nuts that is used to secure the hardtop to the top of the >windscreen has come loose so the securing bolt spins freely. Anyone ever fixed one of these? >Cheers, > >Jim Henningsen From william.mcintire at wright.edu Sun Mar 30 06:07:24 2008 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 09:07:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question In-Reply-To: <20080329203532.WYLA17539.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> References: <20080329203532.WYLA17539.cdptpa-omta02.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> Message-ID: Jim, Not sure you'd want to leave that bolt out. Top won't blow off but it will leak air and even more worser...water. Will do it's imitation of a TR3 by making your lap wet when raining. Bill '70 6 ----- Original Message ----- From: James Henningsen Date: Saturday, March 29, 2008 4:35 pm Subject: [6pack] Hardtop Fix Question To: 6pack at autox.team.net > List: > > > > One of the nuts that is used to secure the hardtop to the top of the > windscreen has come loose so the securing bolt spins freely. I had > to cut > the bolt head off to remove the hardtop. I removed part of the > weatherstripping and headliner to see what can be done, but am > puzzled. I really > can't see what is going on with removing most of the headliner. I > can feel > a bracket welded to the hardtop that the nut resides in. Anyone > ever fixed > one of these? My short term solution is to use just the other bolt to > secure the top since there would still be a total 5 bolts in place. > > > > Thanks in advance and hope to see some of you at The Gathering > British Car > Show in North Carolina April 18-20. > > > > Cheers, > > Jim Henningsen > > Maitland, FL > > 75 TR6 CF35914U > _______________________________________________ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Mar 30 08:49:20 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 10:49:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund Message-ID: <000801c8927d$9fad9660$7d15a8c0@garage.local> Many thanks to all of you who contributed generously to this effort. We have also received donations from many who did not even make pledges. thank you again! we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really appreciate receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet contributed. The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form! Let's all do what we can, and give jonmac a big welcome when he comes stateside in 2009!!!!! Please send donations to: Red River Triumph Club c/o Sumton Network Services, Inc. 3767 Forest Lane Suite 124-335 Dallas, TX 75244-7100 From jmitch at snet.net Sun Mar 30 12:40:43 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 15:40:43 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Lucas halogen headlights Message-ID: <47EFECBB.7050307@snet.net> I have a set of 7" lucas halogen headlight housings, but no bulbs. It looks like the bulb unit needs to have 3 lugs located equidistantly around the base to lock into the housings. Can anyone provide me with a part number and place to order the bulbs? Thanks, John Mitchell 76 TR6 From emanteno at comcast.net Sun Mar 30 14:11:27 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Sun, 30 Mar 2008 21:11:27 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund Message-ID: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Oliver" > Many thanks to all of you who contributed generously to this effort. > > We have also received donations from many who did not even make pledges. > > thank you again! > > we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really appreciate > receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet > contributed. > > The stag has been acquired; from what I understand its now in kit form! As of today, the entire drivetrain, suspension, and interior have been removed from the Stag. Also, the bonnet, windshield, all lights, and t-bar are off, and much of the trim. There isn't much more than a bare tub right now. We had a very productive day today. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Mar 31 11:00:41 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 13:00:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Jon MacCartney Stag acquisition and repair fund References: <033020082111.363.47F001FF00062F270000016B2200762302970A9D010507@comcast.net> <4AE2110CB69D4DEFB82438734A006564@CarlPC> Message-ID: <001601c89359$23b228f0$800101df@garage.local> this site will be closing but another site will be opening chronicling the effort. stay tuned!!!!! > It would be great if you (or someone) created a web page with updates / > pictures / etc. for us who are interested in its progress but to far > distant to "pop in"... > > Thanks > Carl > > >>> >>> we're getting ready to close down this phase, and would really >>> appreciate >>> receiving the donations of those of you who pledged but have not yet >>> contributed. From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Mar 31 17:03:16 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 20:03:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Torquing rod bolts Message-ID: <49f668fe0803311703ncb2fb66md726f676614a758d@mail.gmail.com> I have read that these bolts should be torqued in three equal stages. Given the spec range of 38-46, I tried 20, 31 then 42. I backed off the nut between the three torques. I didn't have the guts to complete the last one, because the bolt made at least two full turns after being finger tight. When I removed the bolt, there is clear thinning in the last 5 or so threads and the bolt has stretched .114. I tried just torquing a bolt up to 40 and got about 1.5 full turns after the bolt became finger tight before I ran out of courage again and stopped. This one has stretched about .015, but did not torque up before I gave up. Does this sound right or should I suspect the bolts are not good? I am real scared of shearing off a bolt in the rod... John North From johncnorth at gmail.com Mon Mar 31 17:36:31 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 20:36:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Torquing rod bolts In-Reply-To: <47F18219.5080707@dfn.com> References: <49f668fe0803311703ncb2fb66md726f676614a758d@mail.gmail.com> <47F18219.5080707@dfn.com> Message-ID: <49f668fe0803311736v5471f4c5l83e9ef2387087ae1@mail.gmail.com> These are new bolts. I did oil the threads and the head. However the old bolts torqued up just fine using this method... Not sure how I'd clean the threads in the rods at this point... John On Mon, Mar 31, 2008 at 8:30 PM, Michael Porter wrote: > > > John North wrote: > I have read that these bolts should be torqued in three equal stages. > Given the spec range of 38-46, I tried 20, 31 then 42. I backed off > the nut between the three torques. I didn't have the guts to > complete the last one, because the bolt made at least two full turns > after being finger tight. When I removed the bolt, there is clear > thinning in the last 5 or so threads and the bolt has stretched .114. > > I tried just torquing a bolt up to 40 and got about 1.5 full turns > after the bolt became finger tight before I ran out of courage again > and stopped. This one has stretched about .015, but did not torque > up before I gave up. > > Does this sound right or should I suspect the bolts are not good? I > am real scared of shearing off a bolt in the rod... > > > > Time for new bolts. If they've remained stretched after being torqued, > that means they've yielded. > > > The torques normally specified for a dry fit. If you lubricated the > hardware in any way, then they likely have been over-torqued. If you > fitted them dry, then there's the real possibility that they stretched > during previous running or a previous installation. > > > Cheers. > > -- > > > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > > > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking > distance.... From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Mar 31 23:33:10 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 31 Mar 2008 23:33:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Torquing rod bolts In-Reply-To: "John North" 's message of Mon, 31 Mar 2008 20:36:31 -0400 Message-ID: <18528-47F1D726-7195@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net> John N.----Check the accuracy of the torque wrench by setting it at 45 lb. and fit a socket to one of the wheel lug nuts. It should click well before the nut further tightens. You could also "practice" on a nut and bolt in a bench vice. Most of the time there's enough residual oil in the rod threads, so leave the bolts clean and dry. Compare their length to one of the known old bolts. Take a look at your old rod bolts. If they're not stretched (spin a nut down to the root thread) re-use them. Also question the place that sold you the new bolts, if the torque wrench checks out OK. Run a tap down the rod threads to cut out any metal pickup. They'll probably be allright, as deformation or stretching generally occurs in areas where the threads are not captive. (Unless a bolt bottoms out) Dick From: johncnorth at gmail.com(John North) These are new bolts. I did oil the threads and the head. However the old bolts torqued up just fine using this method... Not sure how I'd clean the threads in the rods at this point... John On Mon, Mar 31, 2008 at 8:30 PM, Michael Porter wrote: John North wrote: I have read that these bolts should be torqued in three equal stages. Given the spec range of 38-46, I tried 20, 31 then 42. I backed off the nut between the three torques. I didn't have the guts to complete the last one, because the bolt made at least two full turns after being finger tight. When I removed the bolt, there is clear thinning in the last 5 or so threads and the bolt has stretched .114. I tried just torquing a bolt up to 40 and got about 1.5 full turns after the bolt became finger tight before I ran out of courage again and stopped. This one has stretched about .015, but did not torque up before I gave up. Does this sound right or should I suspect the bolts are not good? I am real scared of shearing off a bolt in the rod... Time for new bolts. If they've remained stretched after being torqued, that means they've yielded. The torques normally specified for a dry fit. If you lubricated the hardware in any way, then they likely have been over-torqued. If you fitted them dry, then there's the real possibility that they stretched during previous running or a previous installation. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....