From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  1 10:31:26 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 09:31:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question
Message-ID: <390147.78927.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Last weekend I helped a friend install the Goodparts adjustable trailing arm brackets in an attempt to cure the ruptured duck look on the rear wheels of his TR 6.&nbsp; When we removed&nbsp; the Goodparts performance springs (I'm not sure&nbsp;what&nbsp;he calls them) I compared them to the stock ones and noticed that they were at least an inch shorter.&nbsp;&nbsp;Even with the aluminum spacers he had been&nbsp;using, the negative camber (is that the right term) with these springs was way too much. He also complained about the harsh ride so we&nbsp;reinstalled the stock springs at the same time.
&nbsp;
The newly installed stock stock springs ride considerably better than the "racing" springs which is logical and the ruptured duck look was remedied.&nbsp;&nbsp;Since then he noticed&nbsp;that the wheel to fender height has eased considerably which is&nbsp;probably the way his 75&nbsp;TR 6 looked when it was new.&nbsp;&nbsp;
&nbsp;
This brings up two questions, one is why was the effect of the Goodparts springs so great? and secondly, what caused&nbsp;the increase in height between the early 6s and the later sixes?&nbsp; I know the increased height was due to government mandates.&nbsp; Was this&nbsp;increased heightr accomplished by a change&nbsp;in the configuration of the trailing arms?&nbsp;&nbsp;If so could replacing the&nbsp;late model trailing arms with those from an earlier ones reduce the ride height?&nbsp; Also, how did they&nbsp;increase the front ride height?.
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Sun Jun  1 11:32:15 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 13:32:15 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question
References: <390147.78927.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001901c8c40d$6fe49750$6101a8c0@phoenix>

Michael,

Spring rates, which contribute to the stiffness of the ride, depend pretty 
much on number of coils, overall height of the spring, thickness of the 
spring wire, and whether the coils are progressive (different spacing 
between coils at either end versus the center).  So the 1/2 inch difference 
is likely not the only reason the ride is so different.

If the stock springs are the originals they probably are tired and have do 
not have their original stiffness when once new, albeit still less than the 
Goodparts springs.  Also, tired springs will be compress more readily over 
time so what we end up thinking is the stock height is often lower than what 
it was when the vehicle was new.  But in its free height (no compression 
force) there may be no difference whatsoever between a tired spring and a 
new one of the same configuration.  That's why you often see newly restored 
TRs that appear to be sitting higher than they should - the weight of the 
car has less effect on the compressing the new springs to a height that we 
have been accustomed to think of as stock.  Over time the springs will 
settle in and lower the car.

I do not believe the factory clearance height ever changed for the life of 
the TR6 and the trailing arms never changed in any significant manner to the 
best of my knowledge.

One more consideration is the rear trailing arm bracket setup.  Sometimes a 
previous owner will remove the brackets to replace the bushings and not 
realize that there are differences among brackets (the number of slots along 
the top edge) that greatly affect camber.  Not putting the brackets back in 
their original locations will definitely cause a visible difference in how 
the rear sits.

My .02

Greg Dito
CD6250L

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "michael lunsford" <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 01, 2008 12:31 PM
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question

 ...This brings up two questions, one is why was the effect of the Goodparts 
springs so great? and secondly, what caused the increase in height between 
the early 6s and the later sixes?  I know the increased height was due to 
government mandates. Was this increased heightr accomplished by a change in 
the configuration of the trailing arms? If so could replacing the late model 
trailing arms with those from an earlier ones reduce the ride height?  Also, 
how did they&nbsp;increase the front ride height?.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Jun  1 11:31:54 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 12:31:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question
References: <390147.78927.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001801c8c40d$de6e7920$8115a8c0@garage.local>

Subject: [6pack] Ride height question

this may or may not be relevant.  we were doing suspension work on my 72, 
and noticed the car sat crooked after removing a spacer from one of the rear 
springs.  there was no corresonding spacer on the other side.

the dpo had obviously done suspension work, and not put the arms back in 
correctly.  someone correct me if i'm wrong - they are very handed and must 
be put back in the same place or you change the geometry.  once we put the 
arms back in the way they belong the car sat level again.

btw i have the goodparts lowered springs, plus his front and rear sway bars, 
and i absolutely love how it improved the handling of the car. 

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sun Jun  1 13:26:03 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 12:26:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question
In-Reply-To: michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr@yahoo.com>'s message of Sun,
	1 Jun 2008 09:31:26 -0700 (PDT)
Message-ID: <6814-4842F7CB-2744@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net>

 Mike L.---Lots of questions posed. Let's see if these answers are
satisfactory.

Ride height, and to a large degree the rear wheel camber, is controlled
by the length of the laden height of the road springs. In your case, the
shorter springs, even tho stiffer, were still not "tall" enough to give
the camber you desired. Sometimes the swapping around of trailing arm
brackets can bring the camber back to near stock, depending on just how
far one has to go. Apparantly the GoodParts brackets weren't meant to
make up this much of a difference, (altho they're a nice piece of work).
I would supposed you adjusted them to the max. to get the camber and
ride height the way you wanted?

The only gum'mint regulation that I'm aware of was at the front bumper.
I think their dictation was that the bumper had to be a minimum of 16
inches from the road. Triumph raised the bumper and lowered the parking
lights on later models, to accomodate.

The rear height was never much of an issue, but Triumph did put in some
t/a brackets with different geometry to help with rear "squat". These
differently notched brackets, via different pin positions, can be used
to correct the camber in many cases. To shorten this exercise, R. Good
came up with the adjustable ones.

So...Spring rates, ride heights. and wheel camber are a matter of
preference. Handling and looks, vs. ride comfort.

Dick

 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com(michael lunsford)

Last weekend I helped a friend install the Goodparts adjustable trailing
arm brackets in an attempt to cure the ruptured duck look on the rear
wheels of his TR 6.&nbsp; When we removed&nbsp; the Goodparts
performance springs (I'm not sure&nbsp;what&nbsp;he calls them) I
compared them to the stock ones and noticed that they were at least an
inch shorter.&nbsp;&nbsp;Even with the aluminum spacers he had
been&nbsp;using, the negative camber (is that the right term) with these
springs was way too much. He also complained about the harsh ride so
we&nbsp;reinstalled the stock springs at the same time. &nbsp;
The newly installed stock stock springs ride considerably better than
the "racing" springs which is logical and the ruptured duck look was
remedied.&nbsp;&nbsp;Since then he noticed&nbsp;that the wheel to fender
height has eased considerably which is&nbsp;probably the way his
75&nbsp;TR 6 looked when it was new.&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp;

This brings up two questions, one is why was the effect of the Goodparts
springs so great? and secondly, what caused&nbsp;the increase in height
between the early 6s and the later sixes?&nbsp;

I know the increased height was due to government mandates.&nbsp; Was
this&nbsp;increased heightr accomplished by a change&nbsp;in the
configuration of the trailing arms?&nbsp;&nbsp;If so could replacing
the&nbsp;late model trailing arms with those from an earlier ones reduce
the ride height?&nbsp;

Also, how did they&nbsp;increase the front ride height?. &nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
______________________________________________

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Jun  2 00:14:41 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sun, 1 Jun 2008 23:14:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question
In-Reply-To: "Jim" <ebers@wpa.net>'s message of Sun, 1 Jun 2008 22:48:36 -0400
Message-ID: <3215-48438FD1-2850@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>

Jim, Shawn and Mike---I had forgotten about the headlight heights. My
own car is (illegally) two inches too low at the front bumper, so
probably the lights are also. I do recall having to adjust the beams up
as far as they would go. as the car has a slight rake on it. Front
bumper 14" off the ground, and 16" at the rear. That's the way, uh
huh-uh huh, I like it.

I doubt that this offends people as much as getting blinded by the high
lights as seen on many SUVs and off- road vehicles.

Dick
 
E-mail message   
 
From: ebers at wpa.net(Jim) Date: Sun, Jun 1, 2008, 10:48pm (PDT+3) To:
tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor), mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Cc:
6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Ride height question 
Ok, I guess I will tell you what happened to my NEW car in 1971. I was
mailed a recall to have the car serviced because of the headlights
not-being the correct height from the pavement. The fix was to install
spacers in the front springs. I think the height was 1 or 2 inches low. 
Jim
71 TR6 Jasmine 

______________________________________

From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu  Mon Jun  2 07:42:30 2008
From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 07:42:30 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question
Message-ID: <48440BCF@webmail.colostate.edu>

My car is "illegal" as well. Minimum headlight height in Colorado (measured to 
the center of the light) is 24 inches. The center of my Cibie's are 22.5 
inches. I've never bothered to measure the bumper height but it is at least 
1.5 inches lower than stock (along with my headlights) since I have not 
modified the relative distance between the two.

Shawn


>===== Original Message From tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) =====
>Jim, Shawn and Mike---I had forgotten about the headlight heights. My
>own car is (illegally) two inches too low at the front bumper, so
>probably the lights are also. I do recall having to adjust the beams up
>as far as they would go. as the car has a slight rake on it. Front
>bumper 14" off the ground, and 16" at the rear. That's the way, uh
>huh-uh huh, I like it.
>
>I doubt that this offends people as much as getting blinded by the high
>lights as seen on many SUVs and off- road vehicles.
>
>Dick
>
>E-mail message
>
>From: ebers at wpa.net(Jim) Date: Sun, Jun 1, 2008, 10:48pm (PDT+3) To:
>tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor), mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Cc:
>6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Ride height question
>Ok, I guess I will tell you what happened to my NEW car in 1971. I was
>mailed a recall to have the car serviced because of the headlights
>not-being the correct height from the pavement. The fix was to install
>spacers in the front springs. I think the height was 1 or 2 inches low.
>Jim
>71 TR6 Jasmine
>
>______________________________________
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as sloseke at holly.colostate.edu

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jun  2 15:09:08 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 17:09:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter
Message-ID: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>

After 10+ years of driving I was finally "stranded" today.......though I did
manage to avoid getting put on the tow truck hook. I had just filled up with
gas and when I went to start the car all I got was a "click click". No
attempt by the starter to turn the engine over. No amount of rocking the car
in gear changed anything. Just click click.....sometimes fast and sometimes
slow. My wife arrived with the nylon tow straps and give me a short pull at
which point I dropped the clutch and it fired right up. This is when I
noticed that I had lost all of my radio stations and that the horn sounded
very weak. I looked at the battery and noticed that the label was coming off
and it was wet-ish on top. The battery is about 8 years old. The starter is
2 years old. I got the car home with no problem but noticed that the volt
gauge hovered around 13 instead of it's normal 14+ range during the drive.
My multi-meter on the battery shows 12.72 volts with the car shut off. Right
now it's completely dead when I turn the key. No click click even. I tried
to jump it with my wife's car and got nothing. Checking the battery while
turning the key has no impact on the battery reading. The alternator also
seemed very hot to the touch but it's a pretty warm day and it was very hot
under the hood.

Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter?

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Jun  2 15:30:46 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 17:30:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Battery or Starter
In-Reply-To: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <20080602213044.XPJS3194.aarprv06.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 05:09 PM 6/2/2008, Bob Danielson wrote:

>Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter?

Clean and tighten the cables.  Don't forget the ground.

Classic symptoms, it will pass a low-current but not a high current.

(Though a battery has probably neared the end of it's service life 
after 8 years...)



Jeff Scarbrough      75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5
http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/
Athens, Georgia         #354 

From murr32 at shaw.ca  Mon Jun  2 15:55:26 2008
From: murr32 at shaw.ca (Dave Murray)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 15:55:26 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter
In-Reply-To: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <001f01c8c4fb$5db94f00$6601a8c0@LAPTOP>

Take the battery to your local service station/parts supplier and have them
load test the battery.  Be prepared to buy a new one, anything over 5 years
nowadays is quite good for a battery.

Dave


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+murr32=shaw.ca at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+murr32=shaw.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 3:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack'
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter

After 10+ years of driving I was finally "stranded" today.......though I did
manage to avoid getting put on the tow truck hook. I had just filled up with
gas and when I went to start the car all I got was a "click click". No
attempt by the starter to turn the engine over. No amount of rocking the car
in gear changed anything. Just click click.....sometimes fast and sometimes
slow. My wife arrived with the nylon tow straps and give me a short pull at
which point I dropped the clutch and it fired right up. This is when I
noticed that I had lost all of my radio stations and that the horn sounded
very weak. I looked at the battery and noticed that the label was coming off
and it was wet-ish on top. The battery is about 8 years old. The starter is
2 years old. I got the car home with no problem but noticed that the volt
gauge hovered around 13 instead of it's normal 14+ range during the drive.
My multi-meter on the battery shows 12.72 volts with the car shut off. Right
now it's completely dead when I turn the key. No click click even. I tried
to jump it with my wife's car and got nothing. Checking the battery while
turning the key has no impact on the battery reading. The alternator also
seemed very hot to the touch but it's a pretty warm day and it was very hot
under the hood.

Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter?

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as murr32 at shaw.ca

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Mon Jun  2 16:33:35 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 18:33:35 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Ride height question
In-Reply-To: <48440BCF@webmail.colostate.edu>
References: <48440BCF@webmail.colostate.edu>
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806021533g262050e1mba41c97ebe0f6e92@mail.gmail.com>

My superficial experience with rubber bumpered MGBs was that the car height
was raised because of headlight requirements.
Who knows - it could have been because of bumper height requirements instead
of or in addtion to the headlights.

The bodywork of an MG has the headlights fairly low.
Changing the body to accomodate a headlight requirement would have been
costly.
Jacking it up in the air - not as big a deal.

The headlights on a TR6 are actually up pretty high in relation to the rest
of the car.
Looks like they moved upward a tiny bit from the TR4/4A/250/5.

So If it was headlight requirements that drove the height change of the MGB
---The TR6 might not have needed to be raised.
(I don't recall any specified change in ride height for the TR6 thorugh its
life.  Once again though - I could be wrong)


I think the point people made earlier about the spring heights is important.
You can't just compare unloaded spring heights.
Imagine if you had some stock spring and you stuck 300 lbs on it and it
compressed 3 inches (made up numbers)
Then you have some substitute spring that is MUCH stiffer.  Its unloaded
height is 1 inch less than the stock one.
But put 300 lbs on it and it only compresses one inch.  (once again -
totally made up numbers)

The net result is that the spring heights with the 300 lbs on them - the
stock spring that was originally longer when unloaded is going to be shorter
when loaded.

Also - another point worth making - Any differences in the height of the
spring are going to be magnified at the wheel.
I mean - the wheel is out at the end of the trailing arm.
It is farther away from the pivot point than the spring is.
So if you go do the math and find out that your new spring, with the load of
the car on it is going to end up being 1/2" shorter - the car's height is
going to be MORE than 1/2" lower.

Same thing is true on the front suspension.
Don't think putting a 1/4" spacer under the spring is going to raise the car
1/4".
It should raise it MORE than 1/4"

Richard Good sized the springs so that spacers could be used to adjust the
height of the car in the rear.
He sells spacers to go along with the springs.
If your friend's car didn't have any spacers in it, i'm sure it was
significantly lower than stock and would end up with a lot of negative
camber at the rear.

Scott

From tr6 at pobox.com  Mon Jun  2 17:12:07 2008
From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph)
Date: Mon, 02 Jun 2008 18:12:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter
In-Reply-To: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <48447E47.10006@pobox.com>

one "bubba" way to test the battery is to pull the caps off of it and 
have someone turn the key to put it under load.  If you see bubbles that 
means a dead or dying cell in the battery.  (Though the post saying to 
get it tested is really the right answer.)

Bob Danielson wrote:
> After 10+ years of driving I was finally "stranded" today.......though I did
> manage to avoid getting put on the tow truck hook. I had just filled up with
> gas and when I went to start the car all I got was a "click click". No
> attempt by the starter to turn the engine over. No amount of rocking the car
> in gear changed anything. Just click click.....sometimes fast and sometimes
> slow. My wife arrived with the nylon tow straps and give me a short pull at
> which point I dropped the clutch and it fired right up. This is when I
> noticed that I had lost all of my radio stations and that the horn sounded
> very weak. I looked at the battery and noticed that the label was coming off
> and it was wet-ish on top. The battery is about 8 years old. The starter is
> 2 years old. I got the car home with no problem but noticed that the volt
> gauge hovered around 13 instead of it's normal 14+ range during the drive.
> My multi-meter on the battery shows 12.72 volts with the car shut off. Right
> now it's completely dead when I turn the key. No click click even. I tried
> to jump it with my wife's car and got nothing. Checking the battery while
> turning the key has no impact on the battery reading. The alternator also
> seemed very hot to the touch but it's a pretty warm day and it was very hot
> under the hood.
> 
> Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter?
> 
> Thanks
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as tr6 at pobox.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jun  2 17:13:51 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 16:13:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter
In-Reply-To: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c8c4f4$e7835f70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03E12D4E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Bob:

	I think a more reasonable question is "New battery or new
alternator?" The symptoms are very much in line with a weak battery, but
you don't know WHY it is weak. Did your IGN light illuminate, even
dimly?
	Make sure your alternator is plugged in tightly to your wiring
harness (Mine wasn't and my battery died. When I plugged it in, it
turned out the alternator had died from being run with no load. Arrgh.)
	Take the battery out and have it tested at an auto electric shop
(usually done for free). If it is bad, then you can replace it. But I
think the starter is lowest on your list of suspects at this time. I
vote for alternator or battery at this point.

	Vance

      Vance Navarrette
    	Cogito Ergo Zoom
    	I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Monday, June 02, 2008 2:09 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack'
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter

After 10+ years of driving I was finally "stranded" today.......though I
did
manage to avoid getting put on the tow truck hook. I had just filled up
with
gas and when I went to start the car all I got was a "click click". No
attempt by the starter to turn the engine over. No amount of rocking the
car
in gear changed anything. Just click click.....sometimes fast and
sometimes
slow. My wife arrived with the nylon tow straps and give me a short pull
at
which point I dropped the clutch and it fired right up. This is when I
noticed that I had lost all of my radio stations and that the horn
sounded
very weak. I looked at the battery and noticed that the label was coming
off
and it was wet-ish on top. The battery is about 8 years old. The starter
is
2 years old. I got the car home with no problem but noticed that the
volt
gauge hovered around 13 instead of it's normal 14+ range during the
drive.
My multi-meter on the battery shows 12.72 volts with the car shut off.
Right
now it's completely dead when I turn the key. No click click even. I
tried
to jump it with my wife's car and got nothing. Checking the battery
while
turning the key has no impact on the battery reading. The alternator
also
seemed very hot to the touch but it's a pretty warm day and it was very
hot
under the hood.

Next steps? Suggestions? New battery? New starter?

Thanks
Bob

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Mon Jun  2 18:10:20 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Mon, 2 Jun 2008 20:10:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03E12D4E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCGEPEGFAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Bob,

The quick test is to turn on the headlights and try to start the car. If the
headlights dim it's likely a battery or wiring connection issue. If there is
no effect it's the solenoid or the starter. Hint- if you lost your radio
stations and the battery measures 12.72V (a fully charged battery is 12.6V,
I'd look over the connections carefully. That said, no matter what, you are
on borrowed time on the battery and nobody likes a leaker. A poor ground can
cause the battery to over charge and leak as you describe.

Rick Patton
rick at pattonmachine.com
http://pattonmachine.com

From jmitch at snet.net  Tue Jun  3 06:08:54 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Tue, 03 Jun 2008 08:08:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] AC fuel filter
Message-ID: <48453456.3010809@snet.net>

   Does anyone know the AC part number for the TR6 fuel filter?     
Thanks  John Mitchell  76 TR6

From Vsnively at aol.com  Tue Jun  3 06:16:23 2008
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 08:16:23 EDT
Subject: [6pack] AC fuel filter
Message-ID: <c2d.36efba72.35769017@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/3/2008 8:10:25 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
jmitch at snet.net writes:

Does anyone know the AC part number for the TR6 fuel  filter?     
Thanks  John Mitchell  76  TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as vsnively at aol.com



John,
 
Should be "GF61".
My current spare is labeled "Made in Isreal".
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Tue Jun  3 08:48:43 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 10:48:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Blind Moose Rear shock kit rubbing my tire! anyone else?
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806030748l509b9a3dpf5b2e98319c9025e@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

I've got the Blind Moose shock kit on my 1970 TR6.
I'm running 205 65R15s on old 15" Panasport wheels.  (They are a little
different than the new ones)

I'm not sure if the offset on the old panasports is different.
I think the previous owner bought them in the early to mid 80's when they
were marketed for Datsun Z cars.
I need to take some good measurements.

Anyway - apparently the inside sidewall of the tire is lightly rubbing the
top corner of the Shock mount.
I was wondering if anyone else had similar problems.

Or - contrarily - if anyone else can share what wheel / tire combination
they are using with the blind moose kit that is NOT rubbing.

Mine only does it when the rear squats hard - fully loaded car, and / or
hard acceleration or cornering.
Which of course I do more often than not.
:-)

Thanks in advance for any of the replies.
Scott

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jun  3 16:42:25 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 18:42:25 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Battery or Starter Test Results
Message-ID: <000b01c8c5cb$19ef5f50$210110ac@bobspc>

Thanks for all the great input yesterday. The first thing I decided was to
replace the battery as the consensus was that after 6 or so years, it's
living on borrowed time. After hooking it up, the only difference was that
the starter relay and the solenoid went clickity click. Next I turned on the
lights and turned the key to the start position. The lights immediately went
out which indicates a short somewhere. Next was to test for power at the
starter.........except there was steady smoke coming out of the starter!
Looks like I know where the short probably is......but I took Rick Patton's
suggestion and I removed the 3 main cables off of the starter and bolted
them together. I also removed the starter relay cable from the starter.
Turned on the lights, turned the key and the lights stayed on this time, so
the short isn't in the cables. Next up was a call to Ted Schumacher to order
one of his hi-torque starters......except Ted won't have any TR6 starters
until Friday or Monday. Seeing as VB and Moss sell the same starter as Ted's
(wink wink)for almost $300 versus $200 from Ted, I'll wait a week. 

Thanks again for all the help.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Tue Jun  3 19:26:44 2008
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Tue, 3 Jun 2008 18:26:44 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Fun
Message-ID: <618351.49533.qm@web36207.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

6/3/08
Fellow TR folk.  It's been a while since you've heard
from me.  Why?

  Because the last four  months have been the most fun
I've had with my TR6 since I got it in '98.  The
addition of Weber DGV carbs. have been a great
addition,  The car starts - like it should - runs
almost like a real car.  I.E. starts and runs over and
over without much worry. It gives the impression of
acceleration with sound and fury.  Either because of
my heavy foot, or the carbs mileage is DOWN and gas
prices are up, but it's still fun. Unfortunately here
in Jacksonville EVERY road is straight and with the
traffic you can't get out of 3rd. gear except on the
interstate.
 Needs a paint job and I can't afford a decent one. 
What can you tell me about the cheapo paint job
places,,,,,I know,,,you get what you pay for.  Unless
Donald Trump's plane falls on my house I won't have
the money to get it done right.  (Of course if it did
the car and I would be destroyed:)   Problem is that
in places the paint is gone clear down to the primer. 
Yes, there is a rust spot behind the passenger side
front fender, now large enough to fit your foot
through.  Such is life, right now.   Even the black
paint on the back beside the tag is starting to flake
off.
It was never my intention to turn the clock back to
1974 though I have had dreams of engines and
transmissions.  That will have to wait.  
I guess what I'm trying to say is if I can keep it
running another 15+ years I should just be happy if it
falls apart when my body does.  My body may go before
that:))  In which case one of my sons can fight the
IRS for it:)
Paint ideas?  It is French blue now like ,,,,ohhh,
what's his name up in Canada,,,you know, the great
looking one with the Union Jack on the back of it:)
I'd like to paint it dark blue and paint wide gold (or
yellow) stripes on the hood and trunk.  I can dream. 
My yellow turbo mirrors(like the black ones in Moss
for 80 bucks) wore out.  Who can account for taste
Anyway.
John Summers
'74
Jax Florida 

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Jun  4 08:24:47 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 14:24:47 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump conversion
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA01E8FC@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

As part of my Weber 3xDCOE installation I plan to convert to an electric fuel
pump. Others have told me that the standard mechanical pump will work although
starting up will be improved with the electric pump as it will fill the float
chambers before cranking the engine etc.

I have in my collection two pumps. One is a facet pump that delivers up to
3psi and is shaped like a cylinder with input and outputs at the two ends. The
other pump is a solid state pump, much smaller than the facet and it also
claims to deliver 2.5 to 3psi which is fine for the DCOE's. Both pumps can be
mounted under the car exposed to weather etc. Both are designed for my
application according to the documentation that came with them.

My question is why would one choose one format over the other ?. Is the solid
state version more reliable or quieter than the other ?. The mounting, power
and fuel connections requirements don't look that different.

Would also appreciate any info, especially pictures ! of pump mounting
locations and fuel line routing in the engine bay (should not be that
different for SU, Stromberg or Weber installations although with the Webers I
can feed them from the rear of the engine or from the front by configuring the
fuel connections on the carbs.

Thanks as always..

Stan

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Jun  4 08:48:49 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2008 14:48:49 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump conversion
Message-ID: <060420081448.24449.4846AB50000E0B9600005F812207003201970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com> 

> I have in my collection two pumps. One is a facet pump that delivers up to 
> 3psi and is shaped like a cylinder with input and outputs at the two ends. The 
> other pump is a solid state pump, much smaller than the facet and it also 
> claims to deliver 2.5 to 3psi which is fine for the DCOE's. Both pumps can be 
> mounted under the car exposed to weather etc. Both are designed for my 
> application according to the documentation that came with them. 
> 
> My question is why would one choose one format over the other ?. Is the solid 
> state version more reliable or quieter than the other ?. The mounting, power 
> and fuel connections requirements don't look that different. 

You'll want to check the capacity of the pumps, you need to make sure they can deliver enough gallons/hour. You need that in addition to the correct psi. You also need to be sure that the pumps are compatible with the oxygenated gas blends that are currently available. 
I use the solid state Facet pump, with a regulator set to 2 psi. The identical pump is available from NAPA as well. It's relatively quiet, but the reason that I chose it was that it is compatible with gasoline/ethanol blends. I used to use a non electronic diaphragm style electric pump. It made a noticable thump thump thump as it was working, which gave me a heads up when it failed. Those failures became more frequent once the gasoline changed (1st pump lasted 10 years, last pump lasted 6 months). The electronic pump in the car now is 13 years old (and yes, I carry a spare).
I mounted my pump under the tank in the trunk, near where the home market PI pump went. No weather worries there. Got a fuel filter in there as well. I also routed the fuel lines along the right side of the car, as far away as possible from heat, and up into the engine bay.
HTH,
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Wed Jun  4 09:03:13 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 11:03:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Blind Moose Rear shock kit rubbing my tire! anyone else?
In-Reply-To: <005b01c8c645$1ee05300$0200a8c0@Desktop>
References: <a436b5f40806030748l509b9a3dpf5b2e98319c9025e@mail.gmail.com>
	<005b01c8c645$1ee05300$0200a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806040803w944af7duae9cdfed90c73b5b@mail.gmail.com>

I've had a few questions about "what is Blind Moose"

http://www.blindmoosefab.com/rear_shock.htm

His site and Herman Van Den Akker's site for the toyota 5 speed transmisson
have links to each other.
Perhaps he does the fab work for some of Herman's parts?????

The tube shock kit from Blind Moose is very well made.
Super beefy and strong.  (possibly too much so)
Certainly going to break the mounts on the frame before you break the
adapter arms.

I know a number of people who use this kit and are happy with it.
I have a feeling that my old 15" Panasports just fit a little differently
than the ones they are making these days.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Jun  4 10:07:57 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 12:07:57 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Blind Moose Rear shock kit rubbing my tire! anyone else?
In-Reply-To: <a436b5f40806040803w944af7duae9cdfed90c73b5b@mail.gmail.com>
References: <a436b5f40806030748l509b9a3dpf5b2e98319c9025e@mail.gmail.com><005b01c8c645$1ee05300$0200a8c0@Desktop>
	<a436b5f40806040803w944af7duae9cdfed90c73b5b@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c8c65d$29ee7250$210110ac@bobspc>

I may be wrong but didn't Herman develop the kit and then decided he wanted
to focus on the 5 speed so Blind Moose picked up the manufacturing of it.
Lots of brain cells have died over the years so I may be completely wrong.
Wouldn't be the first time! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Scott Tilton
Sent: Wednesday, June 04, 2008 11:03 AM
To: Craig
Cc: 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Blind Moose Rear shock kit rubbing my tire! anyone
else?

I've had a few questions about "what is Blind Moose"

http://www.blindmoosefab.com/rear_shock.htm

His site and Herman Van Den Akker's site for the toyota 5 speed transmisson
have links to each other.
Perhaps he does the fab work for some of Herman's parts?????

The tube shock kit from Blind Moose is very well made.
Super beefy and strong.  (possibly too much so) Certainly going to break the
mounts on the frame before you break the adapter arms.

I know a number of people who use this kit and are happy with it.
I have a feeling that my old 15" Panasports just fit a little differently
than the ones they are making these days.
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.24.6/1481 - Release Date: 6/3/2008
7:31 PM

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Wed Jun  4 12:58:55 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Wed, 04 Jun 2008 12:58:55 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Stag lug nuts
In-Reply-To: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <464930.40971.qm@web54111.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <4846E5EF.4040100@tscusa.org>

Hi Ray,
There are 4 or 5 different machined designs which are all the size of 
the machined dimple in the end of the hex, then again, late models were 
black anodized on top of that combination.

Measure the width (diameter)  of the machined dimple and I'll let you 
know if I have any that style for you.

Raymond Hatfield wrote:
> Hi Y'all,
>
> Does anyone have any spares or can  tell me where I can get replacement lug
> nuts for a Stag with alloy wheels?  I'm in need of 4 to get my wife's car back
> up and running - found out the DPO had stripped several of them out while I was
> mounting new tires.  
>
> Driving season is apon us, and she want's to get out and enjoy it!
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
>
> Raymond L. Hatfield
> '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance"
> '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" 
> Little Rock, AR
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Wed Jun  4 22:44:19 2008
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Wed, 4 Jun 2008 21:44:19 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] 73 stick on foil TRIUMPH rear badge
Message-ID: <757957.40864.qm@web65610.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

The lettering on my 1973 rear TRIUMPH badge is coming off.   I have one of the
peel and stick type to go over it.   Do I simply pull/scrape of the old badge
before sticking on the new one? 
TRF has nice cloisone badges original to
early years, but they're pricey.
Thank you for any hints,
Bruce Simms
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for
the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

From Pimento73 at aol.com  Thu Jun  5 06:44:48 2008
From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 08:44:48 EDT
Subject: [6pack] AC fuel filter
Message-ID: <c0e.31d501ee.357939c0@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/3/2008 8:16:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,  
Vsnively at aol.com writes:

Should  be "GF61".
My current spare is labeled "Made in  Isreal".








does it have 1/4 inch inlets and outlets?
 
Thanks, 
Jack Mc - tired of cramming 1/4 id hose over 5/16 hose  barbs



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Thu Jun  5 11:30:42 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 13:30:42 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity
Message-ID: <14513879.1459641212687042830.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web05-z02>

Hello List!

I am looking to switch to DOT 5 brake fluid and, with a small bottle running about $8, I didn't want to buy much more than I had to. Can someone please tell me about how much fluid it takes to flush and fill the system (brake lines and reservoir)? Many thanks! 

Cheers!

Dave
'74-Six

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Thu Jun  5 13:51:59 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 19:51:59 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Rear wheels 'appear' to vibrate
Message-ID: <BLU118-W2818C675D75D65DB5DF6168EB40@phx.gbl>

Hi guys,
Anybody have a guess or two to what this sounds like? When observing the
vehicle start off from stopped, the rear wheels seem to jump a little bit,
sort of a jiggle for the first revolution or so. We put the rear on jack
stands and let it run in 1st and reverse, and everything seems smooth enough,
no noticable wobble. It just 'looks' funny when you take off. One U-joint was
recentally replaced and the others seemed OK on inspection.

Sloane :)
69-Six.
_________________________________________________________________
Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join you
on Windows Live Messenger.
https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends

From Vsnively at aol.com  Thu Jun  5 16:03:09 2008
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 18:03:09 EDT
Subject: [6pack] AC fuel filter
Message-ID: <d29.27e210c3.3579bc9d@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/5/2008 8:45:44 AM Eastern Daylight Time,  
Pimento73 at aol.com writes:

In a  message dated 6/3/2008 8:16:47 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,   
Vsnively at aol.com writes:

Should  be "GF61".
My current  spare is labeled "Made in   Isreal".








does it have 1/4 inch inlets and  outlets?

Thanks, 
Jack Mc - tired of cramming 1/4 id hose over 5/16  hose  barbs



**************Get trade secrets for amazing  burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as vsnively at aol.com



Jack,
 
  I purchased mine from TRF. The inlet and outlet tubes are 5/16"  OD. 
 
HTH
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jun  5 16:49:14 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 15:49:14 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Rear wheels 'appear' to vibrate
In-Reply-To: im sloane <im_sloane@hotmail.com>'s message of Thu, 5 Jun
	2008 19:51:59 +0000
Message-ID: <2221-48486D6A-5138@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net>

A "guess" is all I can give you. Check the condition of the trailing arm
bracket bushings. They may be taking a set when moving ahead from stop,
with a load on the wheels. Worn bushings can change the wheel toe.

Dick

 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com(im sloane)

Hi guys,
Anybody have a guess or two to what this sounds like? When observing the
vehicle start off from stopped, the rear wheels seem to jump a little
bit, sort of a jiggle for the first revolution or so. We put the rear on
jack stands and let it run in 1st and reverse, and everything seems
smooth enough, no noticable wobble. It just 'looks' funny when you take
off. One U-joint was recentally replaced and the others seemed OK on
inspection.
Sloane :)
69-Six.
______________________________________________
Instantly invite friends from Facebook and other social networks to join
you on Windows Live Messenger.
https://www.invite2messenger.net/im/?source=TXT_EML_WLH_InviteFriends
______________________________________________

From jmcoh at comcast.net  Thu Jun  5 20:10:56 2008
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 22:10:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Blowing Fuses
Message-ID: <000001c8c77a$8e4c9420$ff04454b@COHEN1>

I am getting really frustrated trying to track down the source of an
electrical problem with my 76 TR6.  I am blowing red fuses immediately when
I turn on the parking lights.   The headlight switch tests ok as do all the
bulbs and connections at the tail and marker lights.  I have checked all the
connections under the dash and nothing appears out of sorts. My meter reads
15.5 volts across the fuse with the parking lights on and the engine off.
Everything worked great when I put the car away last fall.  One additional
factor is that I installed the Advance Auto Wire headlight wiring kit last
fall which works great and should not be causing any problems with the red
fuse.  Any suggestions would be appreciated.

 

John Cohen

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Thu Jun  5 21:40:18 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 22:40:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806052040o6f3883bbm2d938acbc134c6c6@mail.gmail.com>

Hi all,

Out of curiosity - has anyone ever had a groove milled into the bottom
flange of a cast aluminum valve cover to accomodate some o-ring cord to use
in place of the cork gasket?

Any ideas why this wouldn't work?

Scott Tilton -    thinking too much in Alexandria, VA

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Thu Jun  5 21:53:32 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Thu, 5 Jun 2008 20:53:32 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
In-Reply-To: <a436b5f40806052040o6f3883bbm2d938acbc134c6c6@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <569498.14910.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

What is the point? My cast alloy cover seals fine with a stock cork gasket with a touch of Permatex Blue. No leaks from it. Can't say the same for the rest of the car.
&nbsp;
Jim

--- On Thu, 6/5/08, Scott Tilton &lt;triumph.tr4 at gmail.com&gt; wrote:

From: Scott Tilton &lt;triumph.tr4 at gmail.com&gt;
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
To: "6pack" &lt;6pack at autox.team.net&gt;
Date: Thursday, June 5, 2008, 10:40 PM

Hi all,

Out of curiosity - has anyone ever had a groove milled into the bottom
flange of a cast aluminum valve cover to accomodate some o-ring cord to use
in place of the cork gasket?

Any ideas why this wouldn't work?

Scott Tilton -    thinking too much in Alexandria, VA
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun  6 02:16:49 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 01:16:49 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
Message-ID: <555811.44938.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The big silicone gasket works well on the stock cover. I don't remember if it works on the cast cover or not though.

http://www.jmwagnersales.com/T6SiliconeGasket.htm

cool product but delivery can take awhile depending on how busy Justin is. The installation kit is top notch with all the supplies you'll need and good instructions. 

Kendall

----- Original Message ----
From: Scott Tilton <triumph.tr4 at gmail.com>
To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 5, 2008 8:40:18 PM
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover

Hi all,

Out of curiosity - has anyone ever had a groove milled into the bottom
flange of a cast aluminum valve cover to accomodate some o-ring cord to use
in place of the cork gasket?

Any ideas why this wouldn't work?

Scott Tilton -    thinking too much in Alexandria, VA
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as mailkendall at sbcglobal.net

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Jun  6 04:56:59 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 06:56:59 EDT
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
Message-ID: <ccb.2a5bd337.357a71fb@aol.com>

I just "glued" the cork gasket to the cover with Permatex, then removed the 
cover with the gasket and smeared wheel bearing grease on the cork to head 
surface and installed.  No leaks, and no changing gaskets between valve 
adjustments.


**************
Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
      (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&amp;
NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From Chip19474 at aol.com  Fri Jun  6 06:25:30 2008
From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 08:25:30 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blowing Fuses
Message-ID: <c2f.354b6dae.357a86ba@aol.com>

John,
 
I just helped a guy last week with the same problem in his MGB.....turned  
out to be a bad bulb that was grounding in one of his front parking light  
socket assemblies.  Here's what we did to trouble shoot: remove the  fuse and the 
red/green wire (spade) from the "red fuse" fuse position;  leave the red wires 
connected to the fuse position; set your multimeter to the  "buzz" setting 
(that's the position that sounds a buzzer in the meter  when the test leads are 
touched together); touch one test lead to the spade  connectors where the red 
wires are connected on the fuse box and touch the  other test lead to a good 
body ground or your battery ground since it's right  there; if the meter buzzes, 
you've got a confirmed short to  ground somewhere in the marker light circuit.
 
Now the fun part.....isolating the bad bulb or bad socket.  Leave  the fuse 
out; start with the nasty rear tailight sockets - they have a  reputation for 
getting funky; pull one socket out - check with meter  back at the fuse box for 
a "buzz"; repeat the buzz test for the next socket and  so on moving to the 
front parking lights.  I've never encountered an  electrical  problem with the 
side marker lamps so you can save them for  last in your process of 
elimination. 
 
Good luck....
 
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6  CF57822U
 
 
 
In a message dated 6/5/2008 7:11:45 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time,  
jmcoh at comcast.net writes:

I am  blowing red fuses immediately when
I turn on the parking  lights.




**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri Jun  6 11:49:47 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 13:49:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
Message-ID: <16354444.1443461212774587564.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web20-z02>

Hello list;

Can someone tell me if there is a good source for o-rings for the PDWA? Is a special o-ring material suggested for use along with DOT 5 ?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers!

Dave
CF25194UO
Maine

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Jun  6 11:55:59 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 17:55:59 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Toothed fan belts
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA01EFEE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

While shopping for a fan belt yesterday I found the only style I can buy
locally has an inner  surface apparently designed by Toblerone. My original
belt is just a solid belt. The reason I'm looking for a new belt is because as
part of this last winters overhaul I installed a higher output Bosch
alternator (the famous 55Amp Ford Fiesta alternator) and the alternator really
needs a longer belt to get it away from number 1 plug.

Are these toothed belts designed for a different application or are they ok to
use to drive the water pump and alternator (I have no mechanical fan)  ?.

Stan

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Jun  6 11:59:27 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 17:59:27 +0000
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
In-Reply-To: <16354444.1443461212774587564.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web20-z02>
References: <16354444.1443461212774587564.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web20-z02>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA01EFF1@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

The last time I recall this coming up our buddy Vance said:

-----Original Message-----
From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf
Of Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Monday, January 22, 2007 1:54 PM
To: ronald weber; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: PDWA Seals

        Ron:

        I rebuilt mine using Buna o-rings and a new copper washer from
the hardware store. I use DOT 5 and have for over a year. The PDWA is
still leak free and seems to be working just fine. I LOVE the fact that
the fluid will not damage paint.
        I went through the o-ring bins at the hardware store until I
found some that were a good fit (took the PDWA with me to the hardware
store). So far this seems like a working strategy.
        'Course next time I step on the brakes it all might go KABLOOIE!
and my 6 and I become just another ugly statistic. Personally I thrive
on the danger - it makes me feel *manly* - but you may not feel
likewise.

        Cheers,

        Vance
        aka "Danger Man"


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 1:50 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings

Hello list;

Can someone tell me if there is a good source for o-rings for the PDWA? Is a
special o-ring material suggested for use along with DOT 5 ?

Thanks for any help.

Cheers!

Dave
CF25194UO
Maine

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Fri Jun  6 13:06:41 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 13:06:41 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] weatherstipping
Message-ID: <7318529.1212779201237.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>

Just finished installing a new ragtop.  But I have one problem:  How do 
you get the header weatherstripping, the piece that meets the 
windshield frame, into the little track?  It seems impossible to start 
at one end and slide the whole thing in, but I'm having trouble pushing 
it in from the long side.  Any suggestions?

Thanks.\


Kevin

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Fri Jun  6 13:19:52 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 15:19:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
In-Reply-To: <569498.14910.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <a436b5f40806052040o6f3883bbm2d938acbc134c6c6@mail.gmail.com>
	<569498.14910.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806061219v35fa8b31oe70149dcfa0899f0@mail.gmail.com>

Never really knew how many off list replies these e-mails get until I
actually started posting questions to the list.

Let's see - How to answer / reply to people - as I have gotten multiples of
the same comments:

I just got a cast valve cover- haven't installed it yet.
So I'm actually NOT having any troubles as of yet.
I just saw the fat / flat bottom flange and thought there was room in there
for milling a groove for an o-ring cord.
It was just a thought.

I'm told that some people have done that.
I'm also told that some already come like that.  (really?)

I had thought about milling a groove in a head in the past - but never
really had the opportunity to do it.
Seems to me it'd be easier to mill one in the head - if not for the simple
reason that it'd be easier to mount the thing on machine.
Also - you usually need to take your head to a machine shop sooner or later
anyway.

Why would I do it?  Why use Oring cord in a groove?
Probably the same reason they do it that way on modern cars instead of using
cork gaskets.
It's a more robust solution to the issue.  Reusable and fool proof (and I'm
a fool obviously)

Obviously I'm not following the "if it ain't broke, then don't fix it. .
."  school of thought.
Not broken?  Heck - I haven't even tried it out.

Sometimes I just can't leave well enough alone.  (see fool reference from
earlier)

Lastly - had a couple of comments about roller rockers.  It was my
understanding that for the TR6 - the roller rockers will fit under the stock
cover.   (not so for the TR3/4)  Is that not true?

Thanks for all the replies - I enjoy them.

Scott

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Jun  6 13:32:51 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 12:32:51 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Toothed fan belts
In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster@hp.com>'s message of Fri, 6 Jun
	2008 17:55:59 +0000
Message-ID: <9716-484990E3-12630@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>

Stan---I've used the "toothed" fan belt for several years. No problems
with noise or slippage. I run this belt just taut enough to keep it from
squealing during engine startup. I think it's a Gates belt, but don't
have a number for you.

Dick


 From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan)

While shopping for a fan belt yesterday I found the only style I can buy
locally has an inner surface apparently designed by Toblerone. My
original belt is just a solid belt. The reason I'm looking for a new
belt is because as part of this last winters overhaul I installed a
higher output Bosch alternator (the famous 55Amp Ford Fiesta alternator)
and the alternator really needs a longer belt to get it away from number
1 plug.

Are these toothed belts designed for a different application or are they
ok to use to drive the water pump and alternator (I have no mechanical
fan) ?.
Stan
______________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jun  6 14:04:08 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 16:04:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Toothed fan belts
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA01EFEE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA01EFEE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <000301c8c810$7ca6d780$210110ac@bobspc>

Stan,
I'm running a NAPA toothed belt with no problems. My size wouldn't help you
as I've got a Delco alternator. I actually lucked out when I did the
alternator conversion and my belt size remained the same as before the
conversion. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 1:56 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Toothed fan belts

While shopping for a fan belt yesterday I found the only style I can buy
locally has an inner  surface apparently designed by Toblerone. My original
belt is just a solid belt. The reason I'm looking for a new belt is because
as part of this last winters overhaul I installed a higher output Bosch
alternator (the famous 55Amp Ford Fiesta alternator) and the alternator
really needs a longer belt to get it away from number 1 plug.

Are these toothed belts designed for a different application or are they ok
to use to drive the water pump and alternator (I have no mechanical fan)  ?.

Stan
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.0.0/1486 - Release Date: 6/5/2008 6:29
PM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jun  6 14:16:05 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 13:16:05 -0700
Subject: [6pack] weatherstipping
In-Reply-To: <7318529.1212779201237.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
References: <7318529.1212779201237.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03EAF503@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Kevin:

	I don't know how others have done it, but I did not slide mine
in. Instead I seated one edge of the gasket in the track, and then using
a small piece of wood (like a popsicle stick but with square ends) to
compress the weather-strip and push the second edge into the track. It
would then expand and seat itself.
	Using this technique I could seat about 3/8" of the strip at a
time, and with a little practice I could push the strip into the track
almost as fast as I could move the wood strip. Say 3/8" every 3 seconds.
It takes a few minutes to get up to speed, but after that it goes very
fast.
	My only complaint was that for some reason I had to remove the
weather strip and do it over. I don't remember why - maybe I installed
it backwards? Anyway, I was very annoyed with myself I remember that.
But to install it the second time was very quick - after I stopped
cussing at myself.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Dr L. Kevin McNelis
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 12:07 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] weatherstipping

Just finished installing a new ragtop.  But I have one problem:  How do
you get the header weatherstripping, the piece that meets the
windshield frame, into the little track?  It seems impossible to start
at one end and slide the whole thing in, but I'm having trouble pushing
it in from the long side.  Any suggestions?

Thanks.\


Kevin

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Jun  6 14:23:47 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 16:23:47 -0400
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
References: <a436b5f40806052040o6f3883bbm2d938acbc134c6c6@mail.gmail.com><569498.14910.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a436b5f40806061219v35fa8b31oe70149dcfa0899f0@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001901c8c813$3ade7350$0300a8c0@Desktop>

Boy you can tell some one is not working


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Scott Tilton" <triumph.tr4 at gmail.com>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 3:19 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover


> Never really knew how many off list replies these e-mails get until I
> actually started posting questions to the list.
>
> Let's see - How to answer / reply to people - as I have gotten multiples 
> of
> the same comments:
>
> I just got a cast valve cover- haven't installed it yet.
> So I'm actually NOT having any troubles as of yet.
> I just saw the fat / flat bottom flange and thought there was room in 
> there
> for milling a groove for an o-ring cord.
> It was just a thought.
>
> I'm told that some people have done that.
> I'm also told that some already come like that.  (really?)
>
> I had thought about milling a groove in a head in the past - but never
> really had the opportunity to do it.
> Seems to me it'd be easier to mill one in the head - if not for the simple
> reason that it'd be easier to mount the thing on machine.
> Also - you usually need to take your head to a machine shop sooner or 
> later
> anyway.
>
> Why would I do it?  Why use Oring cord in a groove?
> Probably the same reason they do it that way on modern cars instead of 
> using
> cork gaskets.
> It's a more robust solution to the issue.  Reusable and fool proof (and 
> I'm
> a fool obviously)
>
> Obviously I'm not following the "if it ain't broke, then don't fix it. .
> ."  school of thought.
> Not broken?  Heck - I haven't even tried it out.
>
> Sometimes I just can't leave well enough alone.  (see fool reference from
> earlier)
>
> Lastly - had a couple of comments about roller rockers.  It was my
> understanding that for the TR6 - the roller rockers will fit under the 
> stock
> cover.   (not so for the TR3/4)  Is that not true?
>
> Thanks for all the replies - I enjoy them.
>
> Scott
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net 

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Fri Jun  6 14:48:16 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 16:48:16 -0400
Subject: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
In-Reply-To: <001901c8c813$3ade7350$0300a8c0@Desktop>
References: <a436b5f40806052040o6f3883bbm2d938acbc134c6c6@mail.gmail.com>
	<569498.14910.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<a436b5f40806061219v35fa8b31oe70149dcfa0899f0@mail.gmail.com>
	<001901c8c813$3ade7350$0300a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806061348m741059ebw6c0f80c669f6bad0@mail.gmail.com>

On the contrary - I've actually been pretty busy and productive at work
today.  (yes . . . on work related projects)

Don't mistake a lengthy e-mail for a lot of time spent at the computer.
Helps when you can type just about as fast as you can think what you want to
say. . . .  (which doens't make for well written e-mails.  It just means
they take very little time to compose.)

On Fri, Jun 6, 2008 at 4:23 PM, Craig <wensley_Tr at comcast.net> wrote:

> Boy you can tell some one is not working
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Scott Tilton" <triumph.tr4 at gmail.com>
> To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 3:19 PM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] sealing a Cast Valve Cover
>
>
>   Never really knew how many off list replies these e-mails get until I
>> actually started posting questions to the list.
>>
>> Let's see - How to answer / reply to people - as I have gotten multiples
>> of
>> the same comments:
>>
>> I just got a cast valve cover- haven't installed it yet.
>> So I'm actually NOT having any troubles as of yet.
>> I just saw the fat / flat bottom flange and thought there was room in
>> there
>> for milling a groove for an o-ring cord.
>> It was just a thought.
>>
>> I'm told that some people have done that.
>> I'm also told that some already come like that.  (really?)
>>
>> I had thought about milling a groove in a head in the past - but never
>> really had the opportunity to do it.
>> Seems to me it'd be easier to mill one in the head - if not for the simple
>> reason that it'd be easier to mount the thing on machine.
>> Also - you usually need to take your head to a machine shop sooner or
>> later
>> anyway.
>>
>> Why would I do it?  Why use Oring cord in a groove?
>> Probably the same reason they do it that way on modern cars instead of
>> using
>> cork gaskets.
>> It's a more robust solution to the issue.  Reusable and fool proof (and
>> I'm
>> a fool obviously)
>>
>> Obviously I'm not following the "if it ain't broke, then don't fix it. .
>> ."  school of thought.
>> Not broken?  Heck - I haven't even tried it out.
>>
>> Sometimes I just can't leave well enough alone.  (see fool reference from
>> earlier)
>>
>> Lastly - had a couple of comments about roller rockers.  It was my
>> understanding that for the TR6 - the roller rockers will fit under the
>> stock
>> cover.   (not so for the TR3/4)  Is that not true?
>>
>> Thanks for all the replies - I enjoy them.
>>
>> Scott
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Fri Jun  6 14:52:58 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 06 Jun 2008 16:52:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] weatherstipping
In-Reply-To: <7318529.1212779201237.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
References: <7318529.1212779201237.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <8CA962E6F91BEBE-564-2EC2@FWM-M01.sysops.aol.com>

 Try some soapy water.

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Dr L. Kevin McNelis <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Sent: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 3:06 pm
Subject: [6pack] weatherstipping










Just finished installing a new ragtop.  But I have one problem:  How do 
you get the header weatherstripping, the piece that meets the 
windshield frame, into the little track?  It seems impossible to start 
at one end and slide the whole thing in, but I'm having trouble pushing 
it in from the long side.  Any suggestions?

Thanks.\


Kevin

From ggelhar at earthlink.net  Fri Jun  6 15:37:24 2008
From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 16:37:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] weatherstipping
Message-ID: <410-22008656213724560@earthlink.net>

Vance,

How did you determine forward or backward? This is the only step I have not
completed after replacing the top on my TR6.

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN    .

> Subject: Re: [6pack] weatherstripping

> 	I don't know how others have done it, but I did not slide mine
> in. Instead I seated one edge of the gasket in the track, and then using
> a small piece of wood (like a popsicle stick but with square ends) to
> compress the weather-strip and push the second edge into the track. It
> would then expand and seat itself.
> 	Using this technique I could seat about 3/8" of the strip at a
> time, and with a little practice I could push the strip into the track
> almost as fast as I could move the wood strip. Say 3/8" every 3 seconds.
> It takes a few minutes to get up to speed, but after that it goes very
> fast.
> 	My only complaint was that for some reason I had to remove the
> weather strip and do it over. I don't remember why - maybe I installed
> it backwards? Anyway, I was very annoyed with myself I remember that.
> But to install it the second time was very quick - after I stopped
> cussing at myself.
>
> 	Vance

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jun  6 16:00:20 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 15:00:20 -0700
Subject: [6pack] weatherstipping
In-Reply-To: <410-22008656213724560@earthlink.net>
References: <410-22008656213724560@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03EAF693@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Greg:

	I don't remember what it was that made me decide I had to do it
over. Now that you mention it, it seems like it didn't matter which way
it went in.

	Uh... Lessee.. Hmmm.

	OK, I seem to recall that the track is pop riveted on (?). And
after I got the strip in I decided that my pop riveting was crappy... No
wait. Umm. Yep I think that was it. I noticed that the track was loose
or not fitting flush or something. So I pulled up the strip, and re-pop
riveted it... something like that. Or did I decide I should first paint
the track to prevent rust? Gads.

	Oh, *hell*. I don't remember. It was three years ago and I am
getting older and probably getting Alzheimer's, my hair is falling out,
and my eyes are getting bad. Would you trust anything I said, given the
deteriorating nature of my grumpy old body? I don't think so.

	Oops. I think my "Depends" just sprung a leak. So I need to go
now...

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Greg Gelhar
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 2:37 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] weatherstipping

Vance,

How did you determine forward or backward? This is the only step I have
not
completed after replacing the top on my TR6.

Greg Gelhar
1973 TR6
1980 TR8
Osseo, MN    .

From jmcoh at comcast.net  Fri Jun  6 18:46:03 2008
From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 20:46:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Blowing Fuses
Message-ID: <000901c8c837$dd85d070$ff04454b@COHEN1>

Thanks to everyone who responded with great suggestions on finding my
electrical short.  After collecting the responses, I went out to the garage
with renewed enthusiasm.  I checked out the usual suspects like taillights
and dash lights and finally found an abraded wire in the front left marker
light.  It was the last place I looked before tearing the dash apart.  Once
again the list comes thru and makes owning these cars worthwhile.  

 

John Cohen

From MTRsix71 at aol.com  Fri Jun  6 21:54:56 2008
From: MTRsix71 at aol.com (MTRsix71 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 6 Jun 2008 23:54:56 EDT
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
Message-ID: <d18.2c17dd03.357b6090@aol.com>

Dave,
According to a chemical compatibility chart I have, Silicone Oil (DOT5) is  
has excellent compatibility with the following plastics: 
Polyethylene
Polypropylene
Polysulfone
Polyurethane
And also excellent compatibility with the following elastomer: FKM or more  
commonly known as Viton.
 
I believe I used Danco brand #36 o-rings from Home Depot. These are  either 
polyethylene or polypropylene.
 
I have had DOT5 in my car for over three years and no leaks or problems. I  
had replaced all the hoses, seals, rear wheel cylinders, and brake master  
cylinder as well as the same time.
 
Cheers!
Michael



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Jun  7 12:16:52 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow)
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2008 11:16:52 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Toothed fan belts
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA01EFEE@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <000401c8c8ca$a9078350$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hi Stan,
What I have read is the "original" TR6 belts were flat and the newer notched
belts actually work better by slipping less.
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 06, 2008 10:55 AM
Subject: [6pack] Toothed fan belts


> While shopping for a fan belt yesterday I found the only style I can buy
> locally has an inner  surface apparently designed by Toblerone. My
original
> belt is just a solid belt. The reason I'm looking for a new belt is
because as
> part of this last winters overhaul I installed a higher output Bosch
> alternator (the famous 55Amp Ford Fiesta alternator) and the alternator
really
> needs a longer belt to get it away from number 1 plug.
>
> Are these toothed belts designed for a different application or are they
ok to
> use to drive the water pump and alternator (I have no mechanical fan)  ?.
>
> Stan
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From vcolper at yahoo.com  Sat Jun  7 18:32:08 2008
From: vcolper at yahoo.com (Victor Colon)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 17:32:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] VIN # Tag rivets
Message-ID: <52140.14292.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

The body shop that started the work on my 73 TR6 removed the VIN tag/plate from the door way/frame. Where can I obtain the original type of rivets? I want to make it as original as possible since I've learned it's ilegal to remove the tag/plate.
  Thanks,
  Vic
   
  73 TR6 slooowww restoration



Victor Colon

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Jun  7 18:42:31 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2008 20:42:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
In-Reply-To: <d18.2c17dd03.357b6090@aol.com>
References: <d18.2c17dd03.357b6090@aol.com>
Message-ID: <484B2AF7.3050806@maine.rr.com>

Thanks, Michael. Very helpful. Interesting that none of the Big Three's 
catalogs
show ANY o-rings for the PDWA.

Dave



MTRsix71 at aol.com wrote:

> Dave,
> According to a chemical compatibility chart I have, Silicone Oil 
> (DOT5) is has excellent compatibility with the following plastics:
> Polyethylene
> Polypropylene
> Polysulfone
> Polyurethane
> And also excellent compatibility with the following elastomer: FKM or 
> more commonly known as Viton.
>  
> I believe I used Danco brand #36 o-rings from Home Depot. These are 
> either polyethylene or polypropylene.
>  
> I have had DOT5 in my car for over three years and no leaks or 
> problems. I had replaced all the hoses, seals, rear wheel cylinders, 
> and brake master cylinder as well as the same time.
>  
> Cheers!
> Michael
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with Tyler 
> Florence" on AOL Food 
> <http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002>.

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Jun  7 19:28:32 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 21:28:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
References: <d18.2c17dd03.357b6090@aol.com>
  <484B2AF7.3050806@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <002f01c8c906$f6f2c070$8dd90c47@alan>

Moss lists it as a repair kit:
#181-995

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "David Friedlander" <forzion at maine.rr.com>
To: <MTRsix71 at aol.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 8:42 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] PDWA O-rings


> Thanks, Michael. Very helpful. Interesting that none of the Big Three's 
> catalogs
> show ANY o-rings for the PDWA.
> 
> Dave
> 
> 
> 
> MTRsix71 at aol.com wrote:
> 
>> Dave,
>> According to a chemical compatibility chart I have, Silicone Oil 
>> (DOT5) is has excellent compatibility with the following plastics:
>> Polyethylene
>> Polypropylene
>> Polysulfone
>> Polyurethane
>> And also excellent compatibility with the following elastomer: FKM or 
>> more commonly known as Viton.
>>  
>> I believe I used Danco brand #36 o-rings from Home Depot. These are 
>> either polyethylene or polypropylene.
>>  
>> I have had DOT5 in my car for over three years and no leaks or 
>> problems. I had replaced all the hoses, seals, rear wheel cylinders, 
>> and brake master cylinder as well as the same time.
>>  
>> Cheers!
>> Michael
>>
>>
>>
>> ------------------------------------------------------------------------

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Jun  7 19:53:28 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2008 21:53:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
In-Reply-To: <002f01c8c906$f6f2c070$8dd90c47@alan>
References: <d18.2c17dd03.357b6090@aol.com> 
	<484B2AF7.3050806@maine.rr.com> <002f01c8c906$f6f2c070$8dd90c47@alan>
Message-ID: <484B3B98.8080008@maine.rr.com>

Al;

Could be. I guess I don't know what else would be in that kit. Of 
course, Moss offers no
description for what's  in the kit an, as I said before, SHOWS nothing 
in their illustration.

http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32828

Dave


Alan Salvatore wrote:

>Moss lists it as a repair kit:
>#181-995
>
>Al
>
>----- Original Message ----- 
>From: "David Friedlander" <forzion at maine.rr.com>
>To: <MTRsix71 at aol.com>
>Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
>Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 8:42 PM
>Subject: Re: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
>
>
>  
>
>>Thanks, Michael. Very helpful. Interesting that none of the Big Three's 
>>catalogs show ANY o-rings for the PDWA.
>>
>>Dave
>>
>>
>>
>>MTRsix71 at aol.com wrote:
>>
>>    
>>
>>>Dave,
>>>According to a chemical compatibility chart I have, Silicone Oil 
>>>(DOT5) is has excellent compatibility with the following plastics:
>>>Polyethylene
>>>Polypropylene
>>>Polysulfone
>>>Polyurethane
>>>And also excellent compatibility with the following elastomer: FKM or 
>>>more commonly known as Viton.
>>> 
>>>I believe I used Danco brand #36 o-rings from Home Depot. These are 
>>>either polyethylene or polypropylene.
>>> 
>>>I have had DOT5 in my car for over three years and no leaks or 
>>>problems. I had replaced all the hoses, seals, rear wheel cylinders, 
>>>and brake master cylinder as well as the same time.
>>> 
>>>Cheers!
>>>Michael
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>------------------------------------------------------------------------
>>>      
>>>
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Jun  7 20:23:37 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 7 Jun 2008 22:23:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
References: <d18.2c17dd03.357b6090@aol.com> 
	<484B2AF7.3050806@maine.rr.com> <002f01c8c906$f6f2c070$8dd90c47@alan>
	<484B3B98.8080008@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <004301c8c90e$a8defbd0$8dd90c47@alan>

I ordered it a few years ago,  I believe there was two O-rings  and I believe
a copper washer.
If you know the size of the O-ring its cheaper to get them elsewhere.

Al
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: David Friedlander
  To: Alan Salvatore
  Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 9:53 PM
  Subject: Re: [6pack] PDWA O-rings


  Al;

  Could be. I guess I don't know what else would be in that kit. Of course,
Moss offers no
  description for what's  in the kit an, as I said before, SHOWS nothing in
their illustration.

  http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32828

  Dave


  Alan Salvatore wrote:

Moss lists it as a repair kit:
#181-995

Al

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Jun  7 20:54:05 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 07 Jun 2008 22:54:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
In-Reply-To: <004301c8c90e$a8defbd0$8dd90c47@alan>
References: <d18.2c17dd03.357b6090@aol.com> 
	<484B2AF7.3050806@maine.rr.com> <002f01c8c906$f6f2c070$8dd90c47@alan>
	<484B3B98.8080008@maine.rr.com> <004301c8c90e$a8defbd0$8dd90c47@alan>
Message-ID: <484B49CD.2030102@maine.rr.com>

Yeah. Moss wants $10.45 for that repair kit! That kind of money could 
buy more
than  few o-rings and copper washers....

Dave


Alan Salvatore wrote:

>  
> I ordered it a few years ago,  I believe there was two O-rings  and I 
> believe a copper washer.
> If you know the size of the O-ring its cheaper to get them elsewhere.
>  
> Al
>
>     ----- Original Message -----
>     From: David Friedlander <mailto:forzion at maine.rr.com>
>     To: Alan Salvatore <mailto:tr6parts at charter.net>
>     Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net>
>     Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 9:53 PM
>     Subject: Re: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
>
>     Al;
>
>     Could be. I guess I don't know what else would be in that kit. Of
>     course, Moss offers no
>     description for what's  in the kit an, as I said before, SHOWS
>     nothing in their illustration.
>
>     http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32828
>
>     Dave
>
>
>     Alan Salvatore wrote:
>
>>Moss lists it as a repair kit:
>>#181-995
>>
>>Al

From osternd at copper.net  Sun Jun  8 06:11:06 2008
From: osternd at copper.net (dmo)
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2008 08:11:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Looking for old TR6 water pump
Message-ID: <484BCC5A.9060704@copper.net>

Before I buy a new WP, thought I'd ping the list to see if anyone had an 
old (early style) water pump that was destined for the trash bin.

The PO of my Mk3 GT6 installed what looks to be a fairly new Spitfire 
water pump.  Unfortunately, not only is the pulley larger than the GT6 
pump, it also stands proud of the crank pulley causing the belt to be 
skewed.  I was able to press the old pulley off, and was hoping to find 
a TR6/GT6 pulley to replace it with.  The bolt on pulley won't work 
(already tried that), so it needs to be the press-on type from '69 - '74 
(?).  On top of that, the alternator pulley is 2.5" instead of 2.75".   
Might not be a big deal, but the new belt I bought won't fit w/o 
changing it.  Guess it's a stretch to think I can find one of those 
laying around?  Using the smaller pulley would cause the alternator to 
run higher RPMs.  By doing that, am I looking at damage to bearings, or 
perhaps overdriving the regulator?

TIA!

Dale O

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun Jun  8 07:25:12 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 09:25:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
	<F279970FC95A43B98704B4AA5F2B4A3D@D1TG6Y71>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to give me
a headache.

I've got a problem either with battery or starter.

When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering about
4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet.

Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and
backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at
all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on all
night and now the chattering is loud.

So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is doing
something well known.

Original 1972 starter on the car.

Cheers,

Mark
1972 TR6

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sun Jun  8 09:25:11 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 15:25:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] DPDT on-off-on rocker switch for electric fan conversion
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8149DB@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECB72@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Just wanted to follow up on my fan override switch question. Many thanks to
everyone that responded both on and off list. I got not just suggestions but
circuit diagrams (Michael Porter), and detailed installation guide with part
numbers (Richard Seaton).

I did some initial tests with off the shelf auto parts store illuminated
rocker switches. That failed miserably because the switches were cheap junk
that fell apart (the connector tabs pulled out of the switch body when I tried
to remove the spade connector) and because internally they are not suitable
for what I was trying to do because in the off position the active part of the
SPST switch is parked across the other two contacts and creates a short if you
try and connect it up different from the published instructions (I was trying
to switch ground and still illuminate the lamp with 12v).

In the end I found a better made SPST switch at Radio Shack which came with a
robust mounting bracket that I drilled to accept a miniature 12v LED and made
my own illuminated switch. This switch switches ground to the fan relay to
force the fan on and the LED is powered from the same relay via the fan power
feed terminal. Since I had the engine bay dismantled anyway I incorporated all
of the wiring into the loom so the installation looks very clean under the
bonnet. The switch is not yet installed but will be mounted to the metal lip
under the dash using a home-made adapter to move the switch back a little and
adjust the angle.

Pictures here:

http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Fan%20installation/

Stan

From cris_tr6 at hotmail.com  Sun Jun  8 10:06:44 2008
From: cris_tr6 at hotmail.com (Cris Hemingway)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 09:06:44 -0700
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery
In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
	<F279970FC95A43B98704B4AA5F2B4A3D@D1TG6Y71> 
	<641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
Message-ID: <BAY109-W35B940B542D64D6AE94E71ABB10@phx.gbl>

> Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 09:25:12 -0400> From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca> To:
6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] starter or
battery> > Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided
to give me> a headache.> > I've got a problem either with battery or starter.>
> When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering
about> 4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the
bonnet.> > Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly
normally and> backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very
little at> all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the
charger on all> night and now the chattering is loud.> > So I don't know
whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is doing> something well
known.> > Original 1972 starter on the car.> > Cheers,> > Mark> 1972 TR6>
Try testing the battery, clean up the terminals, charge it and test.  It
sounds like the battery is weak, so that's where I'd start looking.  If the
solenoid goes, it usually just quits in my experience.


_________________________________________________________________

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Jun  8 13:10:31 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow)
Date: Sun, 08 Jun 2008 12:10:31 -0700
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu>
	<F279970FC95A43B98704B4AA5F2B4A3D@D1TG6Y71>
	<641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
Message-ID: <001801c8c99b$5252c890$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

The easiest thing to do is pull the battery and have it tested or try a
borrowed good battery.
regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Mark Hooper" <mhooper at digiscreen.ca>
To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR list" <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 6:25 AM
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery


> Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to give
me
> a headache.
>
> I've got a problem either with battery or starter.
>
> When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering
about
> 4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet.
>
> Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and
> backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at
> all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on
all
> night and now the chattering is loud.
>
> So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is
doing
> something well known.
>
> Original 1972 starter on the car.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Mark
> 1972 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Sun Jun  8 10:51:32 2008
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 12:51:32 EDT
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 243
Message-ID: <c08.3b42a76e.357d6814@aol.com>

Research that I have done showed that EP (ethelyn propylene) (sp) is  
compatible with traditional brake fluid as well as silicone.  I too have  silicone in 
my '6 for several years without any leaks.
 
Sam and Carol Clark 
Green Country Triumphs 
TS45355L  O
CC82030U O
Cell: 918-625-6798  

 
In a message dated 6/8/2008 11:15:39 A.M. Central Daylight Time,  
6pack-request at autox.team.net writes:

>
MTRsix71 at aol.com wrote:

> Dave,
> According to a chemical  compatibility chart I have, Silicone Oil 
> (DOT5) is has excellent  compatibility with the following plastics:
> Polyethylene
>  Polypropylene
> Polysulfone
> Polyurethane
> And also  excellent compatibility with the following elastomer: FKM or 
> more  commonly known as Viton.
>  
> I believe I used Danco brand  #36 o-rings from Home Depot. These are 
> either polyethylene or  polypropylene.
>  
> I have had DOT5 in my car for over three  years and no leaks or 
> problems. I had replaced all the hoses, seals,  rear wheel cylinders, 
> and brake master cylinder as well as the same  time.
>  
> Cheers!
>  Michael







**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sun Jun  8 11:03:37 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 10:03:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Starter or Battery
Message-ID: <452657.97076.qm@web51404.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

The symptons sound like a loose connection on the battery or the starter or a bad solenoid.
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jun  8 12:42:31 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 14:42:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery
In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
References: <483391F6@webmail.colostate.edu><F279970FC95A43B98704B4AA5F2B4A3D@D1TG6Y71>
	<641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2DA25@exchange.terra-incognita.net>
Message-ID: <000b01c8c997$6ca42300$210110ac@bobspc>

Mark,
I just went through this last week and here's what the List suggested I
test.

1. Turn on the lights and turn key to run position.  If the Lights go out,
you've got a short either in the starter or the cabling. You can then narrow
it down by removing the 3 big main wires off of the starter post and tie
them together with a bolt. Lights on again, key to run position and check if
lights go off. If they don't your starter is bad. If they do, you've got a
short in your cables.
2. Test all battery readings the starter end of the cables as opposed to
just putting your meter on the battery terminals. 
3. check the voltage at the WR wire where it leaves the starter relay for
the starter, while a helper holds the key to the start position.  If you see
12v here, check again directly at the starter, both from the terminal that
gets the WR wire to the starter housing, and from the end of the big stud
that gets the battery cable to the housing.  If you still find 12v in both
places, the starter/solenoid is bad.

In my case just doing step #1 isolated the problem to a short in the
starter. Plus the smoke coming out of the starter was a dead give-away. Once
I got the starter out I clamped it in a vice and hooked a battery to it. The
gear jumped but wouldn't spin.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 9:25 AM
To: 6pack; TR list
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery

Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to give
me a headache.

I've got a problem either with battery or starter.

When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering about
4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet.

Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and
backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little at
all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on all
night and now the chattering is loud.

So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is
doing something well known.

Original 1972 starter on the car.

Cheers,

Mark
1972 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.0.0/1489 - Release Date: 6/7/2008
11:17 AM

From mhooper at digiscreen.ca  Sun Jun  8 13:27:54 2008
From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 15:27:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery
In-Reply-To: <000b01c8c997$6ca42300$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C0847832E@exchange.terra-incognita.net>

Thanks to all for the diagnostic aids:

It appears that the battery is at fault. If I put a set of jumpers on
from the city car then the TR6 fires right up.

So, the battery would seem to have lost it's charge and is not charging.
Strangely it is not hot which often happens when a cell shorts out and
the charger is left on.

Just as well in most respects. Replacing a battery is simple compared to
the starter.

Cheers,

Mark


-----Original Message-----
From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org]
Sent: June 8, 2008 2:43 PM
To: Mark Hooper; '6pack'; 'TR list'
Subject: RE: [6pack] starter or battery

Mark,
I just went through this last week and here's what the List suggested I
test.

1. Turn on the lights and turn key to run position.  If the Lights go
out,
you've got a short either in the starter or the cabling. You can then
narrow
it down by removing the 3 big main wires off of the starter post and tie
them together with a bolt. Lights on again, key to run position and
check if
lights go off. If they don't your starter is bad. If they do, you've got
a
short in your cables.
2. Test all battery readings the starter end of the cables as opposed to
just putting your meter on the battery terminals.
3. check the voltage at the WR wire where it leaves the starter relay
for
the starter, while a helper holds the key to the start position.  If you
see
12v here, check again directly at the starter, both from the terminal
that
gets the WR wire to the starter housing, and from the end of the big
stud
that gets the battery cable to the housing.  If you still find 12v in
both
places, the starter/solenoid is bad.

In my case just doing step #1 isolated the problem to a short in the
starter. Plus the smoke coming out of the starter was a dead give-away.
Once
I got the starter out I clamped it in a vice and hooked a battery to it.
The
gear jumped but wouldn't spin.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Mark Hooper
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 9:25 AM
To: 6pack; TR list
Subject: [6pack] starter or battery

Now that the nice warm weather is here my TR6 has suddenly decided to
give
me a headache.

I've got a problem either with battery or starter.

When I turn the key to start position I'm getting a loudish chattering
about
4-5 times a second. It sounds like a small jack-hammer under the bonnet.

Yesterday everything was fine as I started her up perfectly normally and
backed her out the garage for a wash. When time came to go, very little
at
all., just a clicking noise when I tried to start. I put the charger on
all
night and now the chattering is loud.

So I don't know whether the battery is toast, or the starter solenoid is
doing something well known.

Original 1972 starter on the car.

Cheers,

Mark
1972 TR6
_______________________________________________

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Jun  8 15:47:48 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 17:47:48 EDT
Subject: [6pack] VIN # Tag rivets
Message-ID: <c02.38315342.357dad84@aol.com>

I would not be concerned about removing the plate in a restoration.   Lots of 
auto laws do not apply to cars over 25 years old.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with 
Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.      
(http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Sun Jun  8 16:07:00 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sun, 8 Jun 2008 23:07:00 +0100
Subject: [6pack] VIN # Tag rivets
References: <c02.38315342.357dad84@aol.com>
Message-ID: <038d01c8c9b3$fa18fe10$0201a8c0@Bevan>

... and from an appearance viewpoint, if the edges of the rivets look a bit ragged and not perfectly 
smooth, this too would be a perfect 'factory' look to satisfy the most fussy of concours judges.

Jonmac

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <DLylis at aol.com>
To: <vcolper at yahoo.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 08, 2008 10:47 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] VIN # Tag rivets


>I would not be concerned about removing the plate in a restoration.   Lots of
> auto laws do not apply to cars over 25 years old.
>
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
> **************Get trade secrets for amazing burgers. Watch "Cooking with
> Tyler Florence" on AOL Food.
> (http://food.aol.com/tyler-florence?video=4?&NCID=aolfod00030000000002)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Jun  9 09:28:53 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 08:28:53 -0700
Subject: [6pack] VIN # Tag rivets
In-Reply-To: <52140.14292.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <52140.14292.qm@web37907.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03EDC399@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Vic:

	Plain old aluminum pop rivets of the appropriate size (5/32" I
think?) work just fine and are very close to the original style.
	I deliberately removed my VIN on the door and firewall so that
when it was painted it would be as the factory did it (body number
painted, VIN numbers not painted).
	Cheers,

	Vance

    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Victor Colon
Sent: Saturday, June 07, 2008 5:32 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] VIN # Tag rivets

The body shop that started the work on my 73 TR6 removed the VIN
tag/plate from the door way/frame. Where can I obtain the original type
of rivets? I want to make it as original as possible since I've learned
it's ilegal to remove the tag/plate.
  Thanks,
  Vic

  73 TR6 slooowww restoration



Victor Colon
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jun  9 11:21:23 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 13:21:23 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 at Devens SCCA Solo National Tour
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806091313360.8853@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I ran the SCCA solo NT event this weekend past. That means both as an 
entrant and as the event co-chair. WHEW, am I tired. The car ran fine, I 
was a little slow dialing in the new tires (I changed to Hoosier slicks), 
but wound up with respectable times.

At any rate, there's some pix posted on the NER forums... one is:

http://www.ner.org/v/solo/2008tour/kc/heat2/IMG_8352.JPG.html

There were three Triumphs running, Bob Totten (D Mod Spitfire GT), Dean 
van de Carr (E Mod TR6 (with V8 grrrrrrrunt) and Bob Lang (F prepared TR6)

Lots of fun.

On the ride home, one of my truck's calipers stuck on. Lots of smoke, but 
no fire. Before I removed the wheel, I used the pyrometer to check the 
temps... the caliper was 400+. Yeow! We're getting new parts on there 
today. :-)

It was sure nice to drive my TRiumph again!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Jun  9 17:01:26 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 23:01:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Alternators and sensing wire (or lack of)
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I recently fitted  (but have not yet tested) a Bosch 55A alternator, ex Ford
fiesta (it is a new unit). I researched this project and visited several web
sites that describe this conversion and found that these alternators seem to
differ and the suggested installations differ. One of those differences is
with the connections. The Bosch alternator is plug compatible with the
two-wire modular connector on the Lucas alternator. Depending on the web site
you either insulate and tuck away the unconnected brown "sensing wire" or you
plug it into an appropriate connector on the Bosch unit, just north of the
modular connector.

The unit I purchased from Autozone looks the same as the other 55A Bosch
alternators illustrated on the various TR6 project sites except that on the
back of the alternator there is a small black component (maybe 1.5 inch long,
1 inch high, .5 inch deep) that component has one wire and it is plugged into
the spade terminal that other sites show as the spot for the sensing wire. So
now I'm wondering:

What the heck is a sensing wire anyway ?
What happens if I don't connect it ?
What is the black thing on the back of my alternator that is plugged into the
sensing wire terminal ?

Stan

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Mon Jun  9 21:22:46 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Mon, 9 Jun 2008 22:22:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Alternators and sensing wire (or lack of)
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>

Hey Stan,

I've got that alternator on my 1970 TR6.
I did the conversion a long time ago though and have forgotten many of the
details.

It might help me a little bit if you could post web addresses to the sites
that you found and used as reference for the conversion.
That might spur some memories. . .
I'd also be happy to go take a few snap shots of what mine looks like if it
helps any.

I seem to recall, however, that I ran a couple of new heavy gage wires from
the alternator rather than use the one in my original harness.
That old harness has enough issues without my trying to pump 50+Amps through
it.

Sorry I'm not more help at this momemt.
Post those website addresses and we'll see what we can do to help.


Scott Tilton
Alexandria, VA
On Mon, Jun 9, 2008 at 6:01 PM, Foster, Stan <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:

> I recently fitted  (but have not yet tested) a Bosch 55A alternator, ex
> Ford
> fiesta (it is a new unit). I researched this project and visited several
> web
> sites that describe this conversion and found that these alternators seem
> to
> differ and the suggested installations differ. One of those differences is
> with the connections. The Bosch alternator is plug compatible with the
> two-wire modular connector on the Lucas alternator. Depending on the web
> site
> you either insulate and tuck away the unconnected brown "sensing wire" or
> you
> plug it into an appropriate connector on the Bosch unit, just north of the
> modular connector.
>
> The unit I purchased from Autozone looks the same as the other 55A Bosch
> alternators illustrated on the various TR6 project sites except that on the
> back of the alternator there is a small black component (maybe 1.5 inch
> long,
> 1 inch high, .5 inch deep) that component has one wire and it is plugged
> into
> the spade terminal that other sites show as the spot for the sensing wire.
> So
> now I'm wondering:
>
> What the heck is a sensing wire anyway ?
> What happens if I don't connect it ?
> What is the black thing on the back of my alternator that is plugged into
> the
> sensing wire terminal ?
>
> Stan
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triumph.tr4 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Signature below blatantly stolen from Bud Rolofson:

70TR6 CC5#### (Good 6)
63TR4 CT157## (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
64TR4 CT25### (The Project)
97F-150 L TRUCKO (Triumph Support Vehicle)
1989 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (economic commuter Vehicle)

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Jun 10 07:29:52 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:29:52 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Alternators and sensing wire (or lack of)
In-Reply-To: <a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Just to be clear, I am posting these URL's to illustrate why I posed the
original question and not be to be critical of the authors of this info. On
the contrary it was very helpful to read what other had done.

This doc
www.mntriumphs.org/Links/TR6_Ref.pdf<http://www.mntriumphs.org/Links/TR6_Ref.
pdf>  includes this detail:

Alternate Alternators for Transplant Into a TR6 -  The original alternator was
an internally regulated Lucas 15ACR.

 *   Ask for the optional high amp Bosch alternator for a '78 to '80 Ford
Fiesta with A/C & rear window defrost. The standard alternator is a Motorcraft
so be sure to ask for the Bosch.  This particular alternator was also used in
the 1976 VW Rabbit.  Reference numbers supplied to this list for the Bosch are
as follows: 120 489 244 & D8RZ-10346-AX.  NAPA part# is: AL86X BSH.  Prices
vary greatly so it pays to check around. The adjusting bolt thread is metric
so be careful not to damage the thread with an SAE bolt.

And then Lee Janssen described his experience here:

http://www.turbo-tr6.info/ford_alternator.htm

Where he says:

The large brown wire attaches to the B+ terminal on the alternator, the small
brown/yellow stripe wire attaches to the D+ terminal on the alternator and the
remaining wire should be tied back and isolated (insulated) from ground.


This is the web site of Paul Rego. Take a look at the second image where the
rear of the alternator is shown. The brown sense wire from the TR6 loom goes
into the terminal close to the modular connector.

http://www.74tr6.com/alternator.htm


Here is the rear of my alternator. It looks just like Paul's but  notice the
additional small black module at the top with a wire going into the sense
terminal that does not appear on 74TR6's alternator above.

http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/Bos
chAlternator.jpg

The autox mailer will probably eat this reply so I'm copying Scott and Vance
directly so that I have not wasted my time.

Stan

From: Scott Tilton [mailto:triumph.tr4 at gmail.com]
Sent: Monday, June 09, 2008 11:23 PM
To: Foster, Stan
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Alternators and sensing wire (or lack of)

Hey Stan,

I've got that alternator on my 1970 TR6.
I did the conversion a long time ago though and have forgotten many of the
details.

It might help me a little bit if you could post web addresses to the sites
that you found and used as reference for the conversion.
That might spur some memories. . .
I'd also be happy to go take a few snap shots of what mine looks like if it
helps any.

I seem to recall, however, that I ran a couple of new heavy gage wires from
the alternator rather than use the one in my original harness.
That old harness has enough issues without my trying to pump 50+Amps through
it.

Sorry I'm not more help at this momemt.
Post those website addresses and we'll see what we can do to help.

From bmoine at yahoo.com  Tue Jun 10 09:26:10 2008
From: bmoine at yahoo.com (W. W. Moine)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 08:26:10 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Brake Servo rebuilding
Message-ID: <427411.36218.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Just as an FYI, I had my brake servo rebuilt by Brake Materials &amp; Parts Incorporated (who bought out Partco)&nbsp;and it was returned in my same box but with half of the shipping materials inside resulting in the breakage of the non return valve.&nbsp; Brake Materials does not have any non return valves and is only offering to pay for the shipping back and removing the broken parts that are now inside the servo.
&nbsp;
Does anyone have NOS non return valve?
&nbsp;
At this point I would not recommend Brake Materials &amp; Parts Inc to anyone.
&nbsp;
&nbsp;
WWM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jun 10 11:16:13 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 13:16:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] What is &nbsp;
In-Reply-To: <427411.36218.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <427411.36218.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c8cb1d$b10fc530$210110ac@bobspc>

No LBC content but lately I'm seeing more and more List emails come through
with &nbsp; scattered through them. I believe it represents a non-breaking
space but why are they suddenly showing up? Is it mostly from people using
Web based HTML type mail?

Just curious....thanks.... Back to your regular Triumph related programming.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of W. W. Moine
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 11:26 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake Servo rebuilding

Just as an FYI, I had my brake servo rebuilt by Brake Materials &amp; Parts
Incorporated (who bought out Partco)&nbsp;and it was returned in my same box
but with half of the shipping materials inside resulting in the breakage of
the non return valve.&nbsp; Brake Materials does not have any non return
valves and is only offering to pay for the shipping back and removing the
broken parts that are now inside the servo.
&nbsp;
Does anyone have NOS non return valve?
&nbsp;
At this point I would not recommend Brake Materials &amp; Parts Inc to
anyone.
&nbsp;
&nbsp;
WWM
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.2.0/1493 - Release Date: 6/9/2008 5:25
PM

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Jun 10 11:20:17 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 17:20:17 +0000
Subject: [6pack] What is &nbsp;
In-Reply-To: <000c01c8cb1d$b10fc530$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <427411.36218.qm@web30308.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<000c01c8cb1d$b10fc530$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED039@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

It's an html term, non breaking space. It's just html bleeding through the
autox ASR 33 teletype filter.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Non-breaking_space

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 1:16 PM
To: 'TR list'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] What is &nbsp;

No LBC content but lately I'm seeing more and more List emails come through
with &nbsp; scattered through them. I believe it represents a non-breaking
space but why are they suddenly showing up? Is it mostly from people using
Web based HTML type mail?

Just curious....thanks.... Back to your regular Triumph related programming.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of W. W. Moine
Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 11:26 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake Servo rebuilding

Just as an FYI, I had my brake servo rebuilt by Brake Materials &amp; Parts
Incorporated (who bought out Partco)&nbsp;and it was returned in my same box
but with half of the shipping materials inside resulting in the breakage of
the non return valve.&nbsp; Brake Materials does not have any non return
valves and is only offering to pay for the shipping back and removing the
broken parts that are now inside the servo.
&nbsp;
Does anyone have NOS non return valve?
&nbsp;
At this point I would not recommend Brake Materials &amp; Parts Inc to
anyone.
&nbsp;
&nbsp;
WWM
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
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PM
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From jmerone at rocketmail.com  Tue Jun 10 12:14:27 2008
From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 11:14:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] What is &nbsp?
In-Reply-To: <mailman.6.1213120800.4530.triumphs@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <439724.7650.qm@web30903.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

After switching my Yahoo mail account to their new system I noticed that my recent posts to the lists were loaded with the offending characters.  Switching back to "Yahoo Classical" stopped the problem.  

Joe Merone
CF18928

> > I believe it represents a non-breaking space but why
> are
> > they suddenly showing up? Is it mostly from people
> using
> > Web based HTML type mail?
> 
> You are correct.  It shows up along with &amp; and
> other common HTML 
> characters when someone's mail sending program knows
> only how to send 
> HTML.  Apparently plain text isn't sufficient anymore,
> FORMATTED text 
> is the way of the future!  If you can't impress 'em
> with content, at 
> least wow 'em with the visuals, I guess.
> 
> 
> -- 
> Jim Muller
> jimmuller at rcn.com
> '80 Spitfire, '70 GT6+greetings folks,

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Tue Jun 10 16:07:09 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 16:07:09 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [ISOA Project Stag:] 0608 TTA Stag Work Session
Message-ID: <484EFB0D.9000909@tscusa.org>

Greetings All,
Here is a brief status update for the STTAG from the ISOA crew!

Despite downpours, 99% humidity and 90 degree temps, the last of the top
coats of paint have been stripped. This pushes us closer to putting
paint back on. Chuck Montague, Don Sheldon, Mike  Blonder, Richard
Scholl, Bill Jensen, Mark Costello and yours truly managed to accomplish
a HUGE amount of work and conclude one of the last filthy jobs of the
project. Doors, body, door jams, boot and bonnet await only final DA
sanding. This can be accomplished in a relatively short period of time
since 90% of the paint is off, leaving only a patina of old primer to
protect from the ravages of flash rust. We are actually seeing progress
on other parts of the body. The welding repair to the driver side front
quarter was completed as the last amounts of argon were spewed from Mr.
Lincoln. A trip to shove an addition 80 cubic feet of argon mix back
into a steel cylinder is scheduled for this week before any additional
welding commences. The patch to the front wing went extremely well and
inspired me to put the initial filler coat on the repair. Sadly covering
up a seamless stitching in of the section. No overlaps here dudes!

Next on the agenda:
- dents repaired in the doors and boot and bonnet
- dent pulling on the back lower apron of the trunk (nasty as these can
not be accessed for good old fashioned metal bumping)
- weld repair of exhaust hanger on trunk
- final weld repair on front apron

by Joe Pawlak


So although it does not look like this Stag will be driven to Detroit in 
August 2008, I am quite impressed with these guys progress and 
dedication.  Joe says, maybe running and on its wheels by the end of 
summer ... not all pretty and trimmed out, but running.

More later.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
dead bugs on the windshield!

From rclark at robertsonclark.com  Tue Jun 10 18:05:40 2008
From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark)
Date: Tue, 10 Jun 2008 17:05:40 -0700
Subject: [6pack]  BRG opinion
Message-ID: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD236@main.RSC.local>

Greg,

Isn't this your color on a TR4?

Ebay item # 310057487989

Bob Clark
'69 TR6

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Jun 11 21:01:09 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 11 Jun 2008 22:01:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>

hi, all.

we saw a beautiful yellow (sorry - is that mimosa?) tr6 around noon parked 
in front of the hershey hotel today (yes, hershey, pennsylvania).

anyone on this list?

it was very nice!  75 or 76 i believe.

From trglory at comcast.net  Thu Jun 12 08:52:17 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 10:52:17 -0400
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
In-Reply-To: <001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>
Message-ID: <004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net>

I was running errands around Hershey yesterday in my '75 Mimosa TR6, but was
not at the Hershey Hotel. There are a few in the area that I know of, but if
it was parked at the hotel, it probably was not a local car.

Joe Laurito
Central PA Triumph Club

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Oliver
Sent: Wednesday, June 11, 2008 11:01 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?

hi, all.

we saw a beautiful yellow (sorry - is that mimosa?) tr6 around noon parked 
in front of the hershey hotel today (yes, hershey, pennsylvania).

anyone on this list?

it was very nice!  75 or 76 i believe.
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1499 - Release Date: 6/12/2008
7:13 AM

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jun 12 09:08:42 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 11:08:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
In-Reply-To: <004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>
	<004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806121107110.21751@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008, Joe Laurito wrote:

> I was running errands around Hershey yesterday in my '75 Mimosa TR6, but was
> not at the Hershey Hotel. There are a few in the area that I know of, but if
> it was parked at the hotel, it probably was not a local car.

It could have been "customer #9".

:-0

> Joe Laurito
> Central PA Triumph Club

Sorry - couldn't resist.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Thu Jun 12 09:17:51 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 11:17:51 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Triumphs @ Mosport  20-22 June 08
Message-ID: <bbb.2c8a51c7.3582981f@cs.com>

Triumph Folks:

Some of us Triumphs are going to Mosport.  

Not many, but it should be interesting.

Added bonus is a Can-Am Reunion......and the Canadian Hospitality

If you are on the fence on this, make the leap.  

Stop by.

Joe Alexander   </HTML>

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Jun 12 10:02:29 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 10:02:29 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [ISOA Project Stag:] TTA Stag restoration makes the Chicago
 Sun Times
Message-ID: <48514895.2010304@tscusa.org>

Hi All,

Word is slowly leaking out about our little secret project ...

The article can be viewed online here:

http://searchchicago.suntimes.com/autos/news/998301,AM061108_triumph.article

It also appears in today's Lake County News-Sun, The
Beacon News, Pioneer Press, The Courier News, The
Herald News, and Southtown Star.

Whooo HOOOO!!

Thank you Andy Mikonis for the article!!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tedtsimx at bright.net  Thu Jun 12 11:40:07 2008
From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 13:40:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806121107110.21751@isis.mit.edu>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>
	<004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806121107110.21751@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <48515F77.5070903@bright.net>

Robert Lang wrote:
> On Thu, 12 Jun 2008, Joe Laurito wrote:
>
>   
>> I was running errands around Hershey yesterday in my '75 Mimosa TR6, but was
>> not at the Hershey Hotel. There are a few in the area that I know of, but if
>> it was parked at the hotel, it probably was not a local car.
>>     
>
> It could have been "customer #9".
>
> :-0
>
>   
>> Joe Laurito
>> Central PA Triumph Club
>>     
>
> Sorry - couldn't resist.
>
> rml
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG. 
> Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1499 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 7:13 AM
>   
Bob,  thought "9" was a love potion.  Ted

-- 
Ted Schumacher
tedtsimx at bright.net
http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
108 S. Jefferson St.
Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Thu Jun 12 14:51:18 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 13:51:18 -0700
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>
	<004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806121107110.21751@isis.mit.edu>
	<48515F77.5070903@bright.net>
Message-ID: <010901c8ccce$10710230$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Or it could have been Client #9.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ted Schumacher" <tedtsimx at bright.net>
To: "Robert Lang" <lang at isis.mit.edu>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] anyone on this list?


> Robert Lang wrote:
> > On Thu, 12 Jun 2008, Joe Laurito wrote:
> >
> >
> >> I was running errands around Hershey yesterday in my '75 Mimosa TR6,
but was
> >> not at the Hershey Hotel. There are a few in the area that I know of,
but if
> >> it was parked at the hotel, it probably was not a local car.
> >>
> >
> > It could have been "customer #9".
> >
> > :-0
> >
> >
> >> Joe Laurito
> >> Central PA Triumph Club
> >>
> >
> > Sorry - couldn't resist.
> >
> > rml
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> > Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> > Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> > Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------
-
> > _______________________________________________
> >
> > Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >
> > 6pack at autox.team.net
> > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >
> > http://www.team.net/archive
> >
> > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net
> > ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> >
> >
> > No virus found in this incoming message.
> > Checked by AVG.
> > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1499 - Release Date:
6/12/2008 7:13 AM
> >
> Bob,  thought "9" was a love potion.  Ted
>
> -- 
> Ted Schumacher
> tedtsimx at bright.net
> http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
> 108 S. Jefferson St.
> Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
> Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
> Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
> Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Jun 12 11:53:37 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 17:53:37 +0000
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806121107110.21751@isis.mit.edu>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>
	<004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806121107110.21751@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED6B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Customer #9 was paying $5000 min for each visit so he couldn't be a TR owner
as we are all supposed to be cheap.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Lang
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 11:09 AM
To: Joe Laurito
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] anyone on this list?

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008, Joe Laurito wrote:

> I was running errands around Hershey yesterday in my '75 Mimosa TR6, but
was
> not at the Hershey Hotel. There are a few in the area that I know of, but
if
> it was parked at the hotel, it probably was not a local car.

It could have been "customer #9".

:-0

> Joe Laurito
> Central PA Triumph Club

Sorry - couldn't resist.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From trglory at comcast.net  Thu Jun 12 12:56:27 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 14:56:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED6B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECE21@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net><a436b5f40806092022k659b2ab7g8c87d83798573c22@mail.gmail.com>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ECF1D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<001801c8cc38$92607910$d54da8c0@garage.local>
	<004301c8cc9b$e97b0590$bc7110b0$@net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806121107110.21751@isis.mit.edu>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED6B2@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <007101c8ccbe$04c4fb90$0e4ef2b0$@net>

Man, I feel so unkool.......I don't have the slightest idea what you guys
are talking about! I guess I don't watch enough cultural fare (I'm too
cheap).

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] 
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 1:54 PM
To: Robert Lang; Joe Laurito
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] anyone on this list?

Customer #9 was paying $5000 min for each visit so he couldn't be a TR owner
as we are all supposed to be cheap.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Lang
Sent: Thursday, June 12, 2008 11:09 AM
To: Joe Laurito
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] anyone on this list?

On Thu, 12 Jun 2008, Joe Laurito wrote:

> I was running errands around Hershey yesterday in my '75 Mimosa TR6, but
was
> not at the Hershey Hotel. There are a few in the area that I know of, but
if
> it was parked at the hotel, it probably was not a local car.

It could have been "customer #9".

:-0

> Joe Laurito
> Central PA Triumph Club

Sorry - couldn't resist.

rml
No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1499 - Release Date: 6/12/2008
7:13 AM

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Thu Jun 12 13:27:19 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com)
Date: Thu, 12 Jun 2008 14:27:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] anyone on this list?
Message-ID: <20080612192719.4396.qmail@s465.sureserver.com>

So did Eliot Spitzer for quite a while ...

**************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************


>>  >
>  > No virus found in this incoming message.
>  > Checked by AVG.
>  > Version: 8.0.100 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1499 - Release Date: 6/12/2008 7:13 AM
>  >  
>  Bob,  thought "9" was a love potion.  Ted
>  
>  --
>  Ted Schumacher
>  tedtsimx at bright.net
>  http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com
>  108 S. Jefferson St.
>  Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877
>  Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.)
>  Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada)
>  Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022

From dito9561 at bellsouth.net  Fri Jun 13 00:10:04 2008
From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 06:10:04 -0000
Subject: [6pack] BRG opinion
References: <C602EE381BAA2B46B9210FBB5483F2814DD236@main.RSC.local>
Message-ID: <002501c56fde$980192f0$6101a8c0@phoenix>

[6pack] BRG opinionBob,

Could be.  I'm so bleary eyed looking at dozens of shades of green I think
I've lost my ability to tell one from another any more.  8~P

As a follow up to my original opinion poll,  just yesterday I had the
opportunity to see the TR6 that was painted the same color and which served as
the basis for my original decision to go with the color.   The crazy part is
what I see on the TR6, and still like,  is not exactly what I 'see' on my 250
even though it is the same paint.  The only explanation I can think of is the
absence of large expanses of sheetmetal from my car, i.e. bonnet, fenders,
trunk, doors,  does not allow me to really see the color on a larger scale, if
that makes sense.  The tub must 'break up' the appearance of the color such
that it really  is difficult to compare.

Bottom line, since this is the color that I asked and which I still liked on
the TR6 I have to accept the outcome on faith right now.  The overwhelmingly
positive feedback I received from listers had a beneficial role too.  And I
owed the shop owner an apology for taking him down this wretched path with me.
Asking someone to judge color using photographs is a dicey proposition at
best.  Hopefully some listers will be able to see the car in person once it is
on the road and then understand how different the color appears from the
photos.  Or at least, as males, that our inherent colorblindness plays some
real tricks on our minds.

Just a quick true anecdote to close out this saga:  A TR6 owner wants his car
painted red.  He does not care for the GM red paint that the shop happens to
have on hand.  Just doesn't look right.  OK.  Goes out and hunts for that
perfect shade of red.  Finally decides on Porsche Guards Red.  Now that's a
red!  What the TR6 owner does not realize is the Porsche color and the GM
color are the exact same formula.  But he is subconsciously convinced that the
Porsche Red looks better even though there is no real basis for that
conclusion.


Greg
CD6250L

----- Original Message -----
  From: Robert N. Clark
  To: Greg Dito ; 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Tuesday, June 10, 2008 8:05 PM
  Subject: [6pack] BRG opinion


  Greg,

  Isn't this your color on a TR4?

  Ebay item # 310057487989

  Bob Clark
  '69 TR6

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Jun 13 05:03:21 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 07:03:21 EDT
Subject: [6pack] BRG opinion
Message-ID: <bd2.23f0cf71.3583adf9@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/13/2008 1:11:10 A.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dito9561 at bellsouth.net writes:

The  crazy part is
what I see on the TR6, and still like,  is not exactly  what I 'see' on my 250
even though it is the same  paint.


IMHO The thought that looking at it on a tub and looking at it on a  bonnet 
is correct.  The appearance of the color relys on light reflection,  
absorbption and looking at it on a bunch of angles will look different than on a  flat 
surface.
My TRG 6 looks like there is much more yellow in the color on the bonnet  
looking straight on in the light than the side of the fender out of the  light.  
It was all painted with the same paint.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
2008.      (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jun 13 07:44:50 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 09:44:50 -0400
Subject: [6pack] What if? Little  LBC Content
Message-ID: <000001c8cd5b$a8eecf00$210110ac@bobspc>

OK..so it's in Hemmings which gives it some LBC credibility but.........what
if an LBC wandered too close to an F-16 training area? Hopefully we'll never
know but here's a Suburban that did.
 
http://tinyurl.com/6cdczn
 
Better picture here
 
http://tinyurl.com/5v3wyc
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jun 13 09:36:00 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 11:36:00 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Starter
Message-ID: <000001c8cd6b$3051ef90$210110ac@bobspc>

Folks.....I just updated my site with the installation of Ted Schumacher's
gear reduction starter. Quality product and a great price. The TR6 starter
can be a PITA to install due to limited access of the top bolt/nut. I came
up with a pretty simple way of doing it that made it an easy one person
operation. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Starter.htm

Thanks for all the troubleshooting tips when the starter died. 

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 13 10:34:17 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 09:34:17 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] New Starter
Message-ID: <216763.36766.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Nice write up Bob, great pictures. 
For the record, I still think your battery
is on borrowed time!
Kendall 


----- Original Message ----
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Starter.htm

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jun 13 10:44:06 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 12:44:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] New Starter
In-Reply-To: <216763.36766.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <216763.36766.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000001c8cd74$b4426650$210110ac@bobspc>

The battery is a brand new NAPA Legend....so I should be good for another 6
years!


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


-----Original Message-----
From: Kendall Larsen [mailto:mailkendall at sbcglobal.net]
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 12:34 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] New Starter

Nice write up Bob, great pictures.
For the record, I still think your battery is on borrowed time!
Kendall 


----- Original Message ----
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Starter.htm
No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1500 - Release Date: 6/12/2008
4:58 PM

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Jun 13 20:56:27 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 22:56:27 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
Message-ID: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>

I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor.
I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel.
I couldn't decide what to do with the head.  I just left it at the machine
shop and am going to have it milled for
9 to 1 compression.
The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular gas.
Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement;
or if I just should have  bumped the compression even higher.

Al

www.triumphowners.com/624

From rsh17 at msn.com  Fri Jun 13 21:04:50 2008
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 22:04:50 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W56F6E0567717925D8C52BAAAAF0@phx.gbl>

I have a similar cam (Piper 270) and 9.5:1 and run 93 oct, no problems, not
sure about 87 or 89 as I've never run the lower octane in it. Never a hicup w/
93, so I assume 89 might not be too bad.

 3- ZS's, point ignition, MSD ignition, 16 lbs flywheel, 1969 TR6 engine.

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com



_________________________________________________________________
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From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Jun 13 21:08:44 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 03:08:44 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

My understanding is that you can go at least as high as 9.5:1 or perhaps 9.6:1
and still be fine on regular gas. At least I hope so, I had my head and block
machined for 9.6:1 based on that assumption. It would not ruin my whole day if
I had use a higher octane however.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan
Salvatore
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 10:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost

I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor.
I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel.
I couldn't decide what to do with the head.  I just left it at the machine
shop and am going to have it milled for
9 to 1 compression.
The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular gas.
Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement;
or if I just should have  bumped the compression even higher.

Al

From tr6parts at charter.net  Fri Jun 13 21:25:08 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:25:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan>

I wonder how much difference there is between 9.5 and 9.0 compression.
I could bump it  up.
As a daily driver, I prefer not to have to run premium.

Al

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: "Alan Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
"6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 11:08 PM
Subject: RE: [6pack] Compression boost


My understanding is that you can go at least as high as 9.5:1 or perhaps 
9.6:1 and still be fine on regular gas. At least I hope so, I had my head 
and block machined for 9.6:1 based on that assumption. It would not ruin my 
whole day if I had use a higher octane however.

Stan


I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor.
I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel.
I couldn't decide what to do with the head.  I just left it at the machine
shop and am going to have it milled for
9 to 1 compression.
The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular 
gas.
Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement;
or if I just should have  bumped the compression even higher.

Al

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Jun 13 21:32:29 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:32:29 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806132324500.28648@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Once you get above 9.5:1, you can run regular or mid-grade fuel, but you 
have to watch for pinging and if you get ping, you have to back off the 
timing. Note that the higher the compression ratio, the more critical your 
ignition timing becomes.

Once you go over 9.5:1, you really have to use high octane fuel. Some 
states only have 91 as the premium so that would limit your optimal max. 
compression ratio. For states that can get 93, you might get away with 
10:1, but you need to plan you "trips" to places where you can get fuel of 
you have to tote around bottles of octane boost.

Richard Good has a nice chart of how to have your head milled.

Oh, once you go above 9.5:1, you  have to start thinking about reshaping 
the combustion chambers to reduce possible "hot spots" as those are a def. 
item in promoting pinging in a high compression motor.

In my travels, I have seen streetable TR6's with reported 10:1 motors, but 
I have to hear a motor before I believe the claims of CR. 12:1 motors 
sound way kool. But forget about pump gas.

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From mdporter at dfn.com  Fri Jun 13 21:42:47 2008
From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 21:42:47 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan>
References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan>
Message-ID: <48533E37.5060504@dfn.com>

Alan Salvatore wrote:
> I wonder how much difference there is between 9.5 and 9.0 compression.
> I could bump it  up.
> As a daily driver, I prefer not to have to run premium.
>
>   

I think it depends upon how chamber preparation one does. Milling the 
head and just slapping it on will likely cause problems, if only because 
of the sharp edges from the milling.  Attending to those, and a little 
smoothing of the rough edges here and there in the chamber will go a 
long way toward keeping the pre-ignition effects to a minimum.


Some of it is dependent upon chamber shape--there are new cars out there 
that are running 87 octane on 10.5:1 compression--but, taking care of 
the obvious burrs, projections, etc., will help.


Cheers.

-- 


Michael Porter
Roswell, NM


Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance....

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Jun 13 21:52:30 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 23:52:30 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <48533E37.5060504@dfn.com>
References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<005801c8cdce$3fc71d70$59449e18@alan> <48533E37.5060504@dfn.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806132348580.28648@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 13 Jun 2008, Michael Porter wrote:

[stuff deleted]

> Some of it is dependent upon chamber shape--there are new cars out there
> that are running 87 octane on 10.5:1 compression--but, taking care of
> the obvious burrs, projections, etc., will help.

I'm  not trying to "one-up" here, but a modern car with ALUMINUM HEADS and 
ENGINE MANAGEMENT has a few advantages over a cast iron engine with 
(likely) sub-optimal ignition timing (and the possible sharp edges).

These are two completly different animals.

Regarding TR6 heads, you can actually cut quite a bit and not introduce 
sharp edges and you can "fix" the probs with a dremel tool and some 
quality time.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Fri Jun 13 23:19:27 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Fri, 13 Jun 2008 22:19:27 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
Message-ID: <521256.91316.qm@web82606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

For what it's worth on the economics of premium...
Regular: $4.53/gal
Premium: $4.71/gal
10,000 miles a year
18 mpg
556 gal/year
Totals:
Regular $2,517
Premium $2,617

Or a difference of $100/yr
Or 4%.....

$0.20 extra on a gallon of gas isn't what it used to be

Kendall
San Clemente, CA


----- Original Message ----
From: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: Alan Salvatore <tr6parts at charter.net>; "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 8:08:44 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression boost

My understanding is that you can go at least as high as 9.5:1 or perhaps 9.6:1
and still be fine on regular gas. At least I hope so, I had my head and block
machined for 9.6:1 based on that assumption. It would not ruin my whole day if
I had use a higher octane however.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan
Salvatore
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 10:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost

I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor.
I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel.
I couldn't decide what to do with the head.  I just left it at the machine
shop and am going to have it milled for
9 to 1 compression.
The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular gas.
Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement;
or if I just should have  bumped the compression even higher.

Al

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Jun 14 00:35:42 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 06:35:42 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV113BD994DC76359AB16F7CF4AF0@phx.gbl>

Al---You could try the 87 Octane with the 9:1 CR, but expect to retard your ignition timing a few degrees, depending on where you now have it, of course. I'd guess you could end up with the timing at 6 deg. BTDC (set with no vacuum attached) and the engine idling no faster than 800rpm. Listen for pinging upon acceleration, and adjust timing accordingly.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Alan Salvatore
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 7:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost

I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor.
I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel.
I couldn't decide what to do with the head.  I just left it at the machine
shop and am going to have it milled for
9 to 1 compression.
The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular gas.
Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement;
or if I just should have  bumped the compression even higher.

Al

www.triumphowners.com/624
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 14 01:06:00 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 00:06:00 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR250 stripe colour
Message-ID: <20080614070937.DDE0418766D@autox.team.net>

Hello list:

Can anyone on the list provide a good paint code for the silver stripe on a
TR250?

 

My body tub just got painted yesterday with single stage urethane signal
red.  My wife and I saw it tonight.  It's very red.  I'm so used to looking
at bare metal and primer, it was a little bit of a shock.  There are a
couple areas they'll need to go back and touch up.  The bottom of the front
fender wells inside the engine compartment did not get a real good covering.
Hopefully they can address that next week.  They'll also attach all of the
exterior panels and fender beading in preparation for the two stage exterior
paint.   I'll send out a Kodak gallery email with the latest pictures.

Andy

CD6746L HVDA

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 14 01:40:33 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 00:40:33 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Paint progress on my TR250
Message-ID: <200806140740.m5E7eXtj013149@upsa-web109.ofoto.com>

The bottom of the car was masked off, having been painted first.  All the insides of the exterior panels were painted with the single stage paint.  The body shell was painted yesterday.  The wheel wells and rockers have paintable stone chip protection texturing on them.  
Andy


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.1kfrwbz7&x=0&y=-1diyjy&localeid=en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.




------------------------------------------------------------
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------------------------------------------------------------




If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the
following URL directly into your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.1kfrwbz7&x=0&y=-1diyjy&localeid=en_US

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 14 06:43:26 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 05:43:26 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Timing and compression
Message-ID: <294239.79164.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Al,
&nbsp;
I found the Goodparts G-2 cam to be a little more radical than&nbsp;I expected.&nbsp; It works fine but it is lumpier than expected&nbsp;at idle. Most people who hear it at idle and know about these things&nbsp;ask if I "have a cam" in the car so it is noticeable.&nbsp; I think I have between 9.5 and 10.0 to 1 compression ratio on my car and&nbsp;have to use premium. If I get a dose of bad gas I can tell it from the pinging under light load.&nbsp; I took a lot, I'm not sure but I think it may have been&nbsp;as much as .025&nbsp;(1/4 inch) off of the late model head I purchased for the experiment.&nbsp; From the responses you got to your question I ported, and deburred the head, intake and exhaust and&nbsp;the car runs great, especially with Rick Patton's TBI setup.&nbsp; 
&nbsp;
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jun 14 08:08:15 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 14:08:15 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity
In-Reply-To: <14513879.1459641212687042830.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web05-z02>
References: <14513879.1459641212687042830.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web05-z02>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0EDA14@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I don't have any record of this being answered, hopefully Dave got the info he
needed out of band.

I recently drained my system to fit new brake lines and I refilled and bled
the system last night. I used the entire contents of two 325ml bottles of
DOT5. The first one filled both chambers of the master cylinder. The second
one filled the plumbing with a small amount ending up on the bleed bottle. I
have bleed valves on all four corners so I don't have a lot of waste.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 1:31 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity

Hello List!

I am looking to switch to DOT 5 brake fluid and, with a small bottle running
about $8, I didn't want to buy much more than I had to. Can someone please
tell me about how much fluid it takes to flush and fill the system (brake
lines and reservoir)? Many thanks!

Cheers!

Dave

From triosan at gmail.com  Sat Jun 14 09:35:41 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 08:35:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Timing and compression
In-Reply-To: <294239.79164.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <294239.79164.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0806140835u70101280qc154076847f3c4a3@mail.gmail.com>

.25 inch of standard late head leaves a head of about 3.30 inches height.
That is around 11.5:1 or so.  Hope you did not mill it that much or you need
race gas!

Do not know if the chart I attached below came through your email, but it
shows compression for various head thicknesses and piston diameters.
Standard is 3.55 thick and yields 7.6 ratio.



Head Thickness

[inches]

Combust chamber volume in cc

STD bore Comp ratio

Ratio .020" over

 Ratio .030" over

Ratio .040" over

3.550

58.5

7.62

7.71

7.76

7.80

3.539

57.7

7.75

7.84

7.88

7.93

3.518

55.5

8.00

8.09

8.14

8.18

3.498

53.4

8.25

8.35

8.4

8.45

3.479

51.5

8.50

8.60

8.65

8.70

3.462

49.7

8.75

8.85

8.91

8.96

3.445

48.0

9.00

9.11

9.17

9.22

3.430

46.5

9.25

9.35

9.41

9.47

3.416

45.0

9.50

9.61

9.67

9.72

3.402

43.6

9.75

9.86

9.92

9.98

3.388

42.2

10.00

10.13

10.19

10.25

3.377

41.0

10.25

10.37

10.44

10.50

3.366

39.8

10.50

10.63

10.69

10.76




On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 5:43 AM, michael lunsford <mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com>
wrote:

> Al,
>
> I found the Goodparts G-2 cam to be a little more radical than I expected.
> It works fine but it is lumpier than expected at idle. Most people who hear
> it at idle and know about these things ask if I "have a cam" in the car so
> it is noticeable.  I think I have between 9.5 and 10.0 to 1 compression
> ratio on my car and have to use premium. If I get a dose of bad gas I can
> tell it from the pinging under light load.  I took a lot, I'm not sure but I
> think it may have been as much as .025 (1/4 inch) off of the late model head
> I purchased for the experiment.  From the responses you got to your question
> I ported, and deburred the head, intake and exhaust and the car runs great,
> especially with Rick Patton's TBI setup.
>
> Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From tr6parts at charter.net  Sat Jun 14 14:43:26 2008
From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 16:43:26 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
References: <be4.334aaaa9.35851ccf@cs.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c8ce5f$4c1579f0$59449e18@alan>

>From the respones I've gotten, I am going to stick with the 9:1 ratio I got 
from Richard Good's web site.
That way I should still be able to run regular gas.
If  I feel the need I can always take some more off; the tricky part is 
putting it back on.

Thanks all,

Al

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 14 15:46:13 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 14:46:13 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
Message-ID: <401473.54978.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

List
 
A few of at our bi-weekly breakfast today were talking of gas economy
for the stock TR6.
 
Is there any advantage, from an economy stand point, to
use the 1.5  carbs from the GT 6 on  a 3 carb manifold? 
 
Having the runners
straighter and putting less and more precise amounts of fuel into each
cylinder should help economy on a stock engine.
 
What say you all?
 
Dale  

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Sat Jun 14 20:38:45 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 19:38:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
In-Reply-To: <401473.54978.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <344670.69731.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, I say, "What's the point?" For most of us these cars are toys that are driven occasionally as opposed to daily drivers. In my youth I drove my first TR6 600 miles in a day in 95 degree head. At age 52 I'd never even contemplate such a feat. (Yes, I'm whimpy old white guy!) For me, my car is for enjoyment and tinkering to see how much more zip I can get out of it. Fuel economy is not part of that equation.
&nbsp;
No disrespect meant. Just responding to your query, bro'!
&nbsp;
Jim

--- On Sat, 6/14/08, Dale &lt;tpdwinch at yahoo.com&gt; wrote:

From: Dale &lt;tpdwinch at yahoo.com&gt;
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
To: "6 pack" &lt;6pack at autox.team.net&gt;
Date: Saturday, June 14, 2008, 4:46 PM

List
 
A few of at our bi-weekly breakfast today were talking of gas economy
for the stock TR6.
 
Is there any advantage, from an economy stand point, to
use the 1.5  carbs from the GT 6 on  a 3 carb manifold? 
 
Having the runners
straighter and putting less and more precise amounts of fuel into each
cylinder should help economy on a stock engine.
 
What say you all?
 
Dale  
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Sat Jun 14 20:49:28 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 22:49:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
In-Reply-To: <344670.69731.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8CA9CA990A702A9-E10-5041@MBLK-M39.sysops.aol.com>

 Install the TBI system and you can have the best of both worlds...and more!

Cheers,

Aaron


 


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine

 


 

-----Original Message-----
From: Jim Jones <jimjcmo at yahoo.com>
To: 6 pack <6pack at autox.team.net>; Dale <tpdwinch at yahoo.com>
Sent: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 10:38 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] 3 carbs










Well, I say, "What's the point?" For most of us these cars are toys that are 
driven occasionally as opposed to daily drivers. In my youth I drove my first 
TR6 600 miles in a day in 95 degree head. At age 52 I'd never even contemplate 
such a feat. (Yes, I'm whimpy old white guy!) For me, my car is for enjoyment 
and tinkering to see how much more zip I can get out of it. Fuel economy is not 
part of that equation.
 
No disrespect meant. Just responding to your query, bro'!
 
Jim

--- On Sat, 6/14/08, Dale <tpdwinch at yahoo.com> wrote:

From: Dale <tpdwinch at yahoo.com>
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
To: "6 pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Date: Saturday, June 14, 2008, 4:46 PM

List
 
A few of at our bi-weekly breakfast today were talking of gas economy
for the stock TR6.
 
Is there any advantage, from an economy stand point, to
use the 1.5  carbs from the GT 6 on  a 3 carb manifold? 
 
Having the runners
straighter and putting less and more precise amounts of fuel into each
cylinder should help economy on a stock engine.
 
What say you all?
 
Dale  

From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 14 22:47:57 2008
From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton)
Date: Sat, 14 Jun 2008 23:47:57 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <001b01c8ce5f$4c1579f0$59449e18@alan>
References: <be4.334aaaa9.35851ccf@cs.com>
	<001b01c8ce5f$4c1579f0$59449e18@alan>
Message-ID: <a436b5f40806142147q37927b78we56f6b4d4c01388c@mail.gmail.com>

Isn't there a source for extra thick head gaskets?  Even made to order
thickness so that someone could lower their compression ratio (slightly)  if
they wanted to?




On Sat, Jun 14, 2008 at 3:43 PM, Alan Salvatore <tr6parts at charter.net>
wrote:

> >From the respones I've gotten, I am going to stick with the 9:1 ratio I
> got
> from Richard Good's web site.
> That way I should still be able to run regular gas.
> If  I feel the need I can always take some more off; the tricky part is
> putting it back on.
>
> Thanks all,
>
> Al
>  _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triumph.tr4 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Signature below blatantly stolen from Bud Rolofson:

70TR6 CC5#### (Good 6)
63TR4 CT157## (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
64TR4 CT25### (The Project)
97F-150 L TRUCKO (Triumph Support Vehicle)
1989 Honda Prelude Si 4WS (economic commuter Vehicle)

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Jun 15 00:18:09 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 02:18:09 EDT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
Message-ID: <c62.32ba782f.35860e21@aol.com>

In a message dated 6/14/2008 11:48:36 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
triumph.tr4 at gmail.com writes:

Isn't  there a source for extra thick head gaskets?  Even made to  order
thickness so that someone could lower their compression ratio  (slightly)  if
they wanted to?



Yes.  This is the guy.
Mordy Dunst
Dr. Gasket
Gasket Works
(626) 358-1616
_http://www.headgasket.com_ (http://www.headgasket.com/) 
_Copper at headgasket.com_ (mailto:Copper at headgasket.com) 


David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Vote for your city's best dining and nightlife. City's Best 
2008.      (http://citysbest.aol.com?ncid=aolacg00050000000102)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Jun 15 13:13:37 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 15:13:37 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
In-Reply-To: <344670.69731.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <401473.54978.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<344670.69731.qm@web33506.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001c01c8cf1b$eb2a8c80$210110ac@bobspc>

Then this 60 year old wuss is at the other end of the spectrum. I use my car
like a daily driver except in weather extremes....that's the wuss part. Fuel
economy and reliability are very important to me. That's why I went the TBI
route last year and added a 5 speed this year. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jim Jones
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 10:39 PM
To: 6 pack; Dale
Subject: Re: [6pack] 3 carbs

Well, I say, "What's the point?" For most of us these cars are toys that are
driven occasionally as opposed to daily drivers. In my youth I drove my
first TR6 600 miles in a day in 95 degree head. At age 52 I'd never even
contemplate such a feat. (Yes, I'm whimpy old white guy!) For me, my car is
for enjoyment and tinkering to see how much more zip I can get out of it.
Fuel economy is not part of that equation.
&nbsp;
No disrespect meant. Just responding to your query, bro'!
&nbsp;
Jim

--- On Sat, 6/14/08, Dale &lt;tpdwinch at yahoo.com&gt; wrote:

From: Dale &lt;tpdwinch at yahoo.com&gt;
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
To: "6 pack" &lt;6pack at autox.team.net&gt;
Date: Saturday, June 14, 2008, 4:46 PM

List
 
A few of at our bi-weekly breakfast today were talking of gas economy for
the stock TR6.
 
Is there any advantage, from an economy stand point, to use the 1.5  carbs
from the GT 6 on  a 3 carb manifold? 
 
Having the runners
straighter and putting less and more precise amounts of fuel into each
cylinder should help economy on a stock engine.
 
What say you all?
 
Dale
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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6:02 PM

From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Sun Jun 15 20:38:52 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Sun, 15 Jun 2008 22:38:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Spare Supercharger
Message-ID: <2DA9A9265F684101874F232C36BB2425@D1TG6Y71>

I am in the process of supercharging my TR6 (following Rick Patton's
excellently described footsteps ...see
http://www.topshamautoparts.com/tr6/schrgr3.htm for more info).  I have now
found an Mercedes M62 blower (complete with the electric clutch!), and so have
an M45 Mercedes blower from a C230 sitting in my shop that is not needed.
This is a short nosed system, and is a little more compact than the C230 M62.
It is in good shape ... if anyone is interested in supercharging as per Rick's
approach, this unit would work well once you relocate the alternator.

Before I do anything else with this unit, I wanted to at least post a note to
listers in case their is anyone looking to the question looking for suitable
unit for a Triumph (given the length limitations that affect the Triumph owner
wanting to supercharge their cars).

Please contact me off list if you want photos, dimensions, etc.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 16 06:43:56 2008
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 05:43:56 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the fact that my Miata runs on regular with that compression ratio - it will ping a tiny bit under hard acceleration UNLESS I'm using E10 gasoline.  Never pings with mid-range or hi octane gas.

Raymond


--- On Fri, 6/13/08, Foster, Stan <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:

> From: Foster, Stan <stan.foster at hp.com>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression boost
> To: "Alan Salvatore" <tr6parts at charter.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Date: Friday, June 13, 2008, 10:08 PM
> My understanding is that you can go at least as high as
> 9.5:1 or perhaps 9.6:1
> and still be fine on regular gas. At least I hope so, I had
> my head and block
> machined for 9.6:1 based on that assumption. It would not
> ruin my whole day if
> I had use a higher octane however.
> 
> Stan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On
> Behalf Of Alan
> Salvatore
> Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 10:56 PM
> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
> Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
> 
> I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor.
> I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum
> flywheel.
> I couldn't decide what to do with the head.  I just
> left it at the machine
> shop and am going to have it milled for
> 9 to 1 compression.
> The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it
> ran on regular gas.
> Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas
> requirement;
> or if I just should have  bumped the compression even
> higher.
> 
> Al

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jun 16 08:26:00 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:26:00 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
In-Reply-To: <401473.54978.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <401473.54978.qm@web36107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806161018070.30161@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008, Dale wrote:

> List
>
> A few of at our bi-weekly breakfast today were talking of gas economy
> for the stock TR6.
>
> Is there any advantage, from an economy stand point, to
> use the 1.5  carbs from the GT 6 on  a 3 carb manifold?
>
> Having the runners
> straighter and putting less and more precise amounts of fuel into each
> cylinder should help economy on a stock engine.
>
> What say you all?

I say no advantage. You'll also loose any top-end you might have dialed 
in.

Interestingly, a recent Classic Motorsports (maybe even THE latest) issue 
discusses that our cars are "over-carbed". I disagree, but that's because 
I like to disagree. But with a 1.75" carb you should be able to flow 
enough air into to the motor to get 175 HP or so (that's in the 130 cfm 
range). Of course then you have to get the air out - different problem.

But to your point, changing the carb size does not help fuel economy. What 
you need to do to get better fuel economy is to increase the volumetric 
efficiency. That means optimize the ignition timing and sprak control and 
stuff like that. It also means running a bit hotter coolant temps and 
stuff like that. You can also get some increase by working with vacuum 
advance, but to do that you need (most likely) a different distributor.

So, can it be done (get better fuel economy)? Yes, but you do it with 
tuning, not induction method (unless you switch to electronic fuel 
injection and engine management.)

> Dale

c ya,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From cm.sherman at verizon.net  Mon Jun 16 08:32:11 2008
From: cm.sherman at verizon.net (Corey Sherman)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 09:32:11 -0500 (CDT)
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
Message-ID: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>

What is the list's opinion on sound and heat insulation products: Dynamat (xtreme or original) vs FatMat or others. Working on restoring the old TR6 and looking to upgrade the original paddings below the juke - doors, floor panels and tunnels.
Corey

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jun 16 08:35:42 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:35:42 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <a436b5f40806142147q37927b78we56f6b4d4c01388c@mail.gmail.com>
References: <be4.334aaaa9.35851ccf@cs.com>
	<001b01c8ce5f$4c1579f0$59449e18@alan>
	<a436b5f40806142147q37927b78we56f6b4d4c01388c@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806161034170.30161@isis.mit.edu>

On Sat, 14 Jun 2008, Scott Tilton wrote:

> Isn't there a source for extra thick head gaskets?  Even made to order
> thickness so that someone could lower their compression ratio (slightly)  if
> they wanted to?

www.gasketworks.com

they can make anything (pretty much) in several materials (copper and 
steel are two).

You could lower your compression a LOT if you needed to.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tr6 at pipeline.com  Mon Jun 16 08:48:32 2008
From: tr6 at pipeline.com (Ronald Olds)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:48:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
In-Reply-To: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAuAAAAAAAAAGR0/UN+345Oi0ESU7rmM4wBAITr15KniR9MuVqf/6yjAv4AAAFImMEAABAAAACQymi0vDVURIcoF/6+f9l9AQAAAAA=@pipeline.com>

Corey,

I used the cheap JC Whitney product on my car I place of the original.  This
stuff had foil on one side and was a little thicker than the original.  I
was very impressed with the difference it made.  It really makes the car
sound solid.  I attached the material with 3M upholstery adhesive.  I am
sure the expensive products will work well also.

Ron olds

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corey
Sherman
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:32 AM
To: 6 pack
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation

What is the list's opinion on sound and heat insulation products: Dynamat
(xtreme or original) vs FatMat or others. Working on restoring the old TR6
and looking to upgrade the original paddings below the juke - doors, floor
panels and tunnels.
Corey
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6 at pipeline.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Jun 16 09:10:27 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 15:10:27 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
In-Reply-To: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAuAAAAAAAAAGR0/UN+345Oi0ESU7rmM4wBAITr15KniR9MuVqf/6yjAv4AAAFImMEAABAAAACQymi0vDVURIcoF/6+f9l9AQAAAAA=@pipeline.com>
References: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net><!&!AAAAAAAAAAAuAAAAAAAAAGR0/UN+345Oi0ESU7rmM4wBAITr15KniR9MuVqf/6yjAv4AAAFImMEAABAAAACQymi0vDVURIcoF/6+f9l9AQAAAAA=@pipeline.com>
Message-ID: <835164233-1213629343-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1072948065-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I used dynamat. It has a peel and stick adhesive side with foil backing. 

Works great, while not as heavy as the cheaper stuff I got samples on but provides good heat / sound insulation. 

Got mine through Amazon.com for way below retail or autoparts store prices. 

Lou
 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Ronald Olds" <tr6 at pipeline.com>

Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:48:32 
To:"'Corey Sherman'" <cm.sherman at verizon.net>,       "'6 pack'"<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation


Corey,

I used the cheap JC Whitney product on my car I place of the original.  This
stuff had foil on one side and was a little thicker than the original.  I
was very impressed with the difference it made.  It really makes the car
sound solid.  I attached the material with 3M upholstery adhesive.  I am
sure the expensive products will work well also.

Ron olds

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corey
Sherman
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:32 AM
To: 6 pack
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation

What is the list's opinion on sound and heat insulation products: Dynamat
(xtreme or original) vs FatMat or others. Working on restoring the old TR6
and looking to upgrade the original paddings below the juke - doors, floor
panels and tunnels.
Corey
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6 at pipeline.com
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jun 16 10:29:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 12:29:46 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
In-Reply-To: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <000001c8cfce$3241ba00$210110ac@bobspc>

Corey....I don't know that there is a good answer to that question. Dynamat
is the best know and, maybe, the most expensive product out there. Keep in
mind that most of these products were designed for the audio-phile
installing expensive sound systems. Most of the testing that I've seen are
all audio sound related as opposed to rattle/road noise related. We're using
it mostly to deaden sound and try to make our rattle traps a little more
quiet. Our cars have so much extraneous noise going on that I wonder if we
could tell the difference between any of these products. I went the cheap
route with FatMat. If I was richer I would have used the top rated and more
expensive product.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Corey Sherman
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:32 AM
To: 6 pack
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation

What is the list's opinion on sound and heat insulation products: Dynamat
(xtreme or original) vs FatMat or others. Working on restoring the old TR6
and looking to upgrade the original paddings below the juke - doors, floor
panels and tunnels.
Corey
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
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Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1504 - Release Date: 6/15/2008
5:52 PM

From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 16 10:37:48 2008
From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 12:37:48 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Projector fog lamps on a TR6
Message-ID: <001401c8cfcf$501dcf90$0302a8c0@jerrysoffice>

Have any listers installed projector fog lamps on their TR6? If so,
installation details, experience etc.? See Hella Optilux 1100 at
http://www.autobarn.net/helopprojfog.html?site=www.shopzilla.com The Hellas
appear to be designed more for replacement of stock fog lamps in modern cars.
Maybe there are others.
Jerry Shaw
'75 TR6 under construction

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Jun 16 10:49:22 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 12:49:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000901c8cfd0$eec69cc0$cc53d640$@com>

This whole thread about compression ratios is quite interesting.  I have
several questions for you all:

You talk about increasing the ratios to 9.0, 9.5, etc.  Given head 'x', how
is the compression ratio calculated?  What backs the statement made that by
milling the head 'x' or 'y' amount, the ratio is exactly 9.0 or 9.5 or
whatever?  I realize machine shops know what they are doing, but there are
many factors that will affect the final number.  Also, if the engine has
been at one point in it's lifetime been milled or for that matter, the block
milled also how is that calculated into the equation to know exactly what
ratio will be at the end of the machining process?

For the guys that have had this done, how do you know for certain the ratio
number is correct?  I am not doubting your numbers, just asking how the
numbers are calculated...

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Jun 16 10:52:58 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 12:52:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
In-Reply-To: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>
References: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <000a01c8cfd1$6eb43f00$4c1cbd00$@com>

I used Dynamat Extreme exclusively when I built my car.  The stuff works.
There is a marked difference in the way the body panels 'feel' and sound by
applying this material.  I ended up using two bulk packs and it covered
pretty much all I needed.

I am in the process of restoring my factory hard top and it will definitely
have Dynamat Extreme on it too.

You can see pictures of the install on my website at:  www.bowtie6.com


Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Mon Jun 16 11:12:37 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 10:12:37 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
Message-ID: <315734.79397.qm@web82604.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I found this guy on youtube that talks through how compression ratio is
calculated by "cc'ing" the head. (Filling it with fluid to measure volume)
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OGuOMItsCXk
Kendall
San Clemente, CA

-----
Original Message ----
From: Joseph Grant <grant at bowtie6.com>
To: Raymond
Hatfield <iron_horse819 at yahoo.com>; Alan Salvatore <tr6parts at charter.net>;
triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 16,
2008 9:49:22 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression boost

>.  Also, if the
engine has
been at one point in it's lifetime been milled or for that matter,
the block
milled also how is that calculated into the equation to know exactly
what
ratio will be at the end of the machining process?

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Jun 16 11:33:32 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 13:33:32 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
Message-ID: <20130360.900411213637612556.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web10-z02>

Corey;

Check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/conclusion/

I used Second Skin's Damplifier (http://www.secondskinaudio.com). It was rated as best by the testing methods used on the website above. Additionally, I am installing their Overkill product in the doors and in the cockpit as well as the rear panel (in front of the gas tank). It's my own feeling but sometimes "cheap" works, sometimes not.... After spending as much as I have to date on this car, getting cheap here didn't make sense, to me. Buy the way, I didn't use these products "under the jute" but in place of it....

Cheers!

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


---- Corey Sherman <cm.sherman at verizon.net> wrote: 
> What is the list's opinion on sound and heat insulation products: Dynamat (xtreme or original) vs FatMat or others. Working on restoring the old TR6 and looking to upgrade the original paddings below the juke - doors, floor panels and tunnels.
> Corey
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Mon Jun 16 12:28:03 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:28:03 -0400
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
Message-ID: <006901c8cfde$b84220d0$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

  Volumetric Efficiency does not encompass Ignition Timing, Spark Control 
and
 stuff like that. Volumetric Effciency is a measure of how well your engine
 is breathing. As in if you have a 500 c.c. Cylinder, how much of that
 cylinder is being filled with a charge of Air and Gas. Gas Flowing a
 Cylinder Head will increase Volumetric Efficiency, Valve lift and overlap,
 and scavenging Exhaust Headers and free breathing Air Filters along with
 Carbs contribute to it as well. Variable Choke (Variable Depression)Carbs
 like SU's are less of a factor as far as matching size being crucial as 
long
 as they're large enough.

       Compression Ratio, Ignition Timing,Spark Control and Running Temps
 all fall under the category of Thermal Efficiency.

    You can have an Engine in a High State of Tune (High Volumetricly
 Efficient) with long Valve Overlap in Cam Timing, but will give worse
 mileage in the real world when some of your Intake charge is flowing out 
the
 Exhaust Valves(helps cool Exhaust Valve though) Ideally of course You'd 
want
 the beat of both worlds, ( hence 4 -5 Valve Heads, Direct injection) of the
modern Engines.

   While we're having this discussion, I'm curious what others are getting
 for mpg in their 6's. I run 2 SU HS6's with BAE Needles and K&N Air Filters
 and Ansa Exhaust on my 75 TR6 with Stock C/R of 7.75:1 and Stock Cam. I 
have
 a Pertronix Module and Lucas Sports Coil and getting nice Spark Plug
 readings. Also run 10 degrees BTDC with Vacuum Advance plugged, along with
 non EGR manifold and Air Pump disabled.
 I get about a 23-24 mpg average driving on country roads daily during my 40
 mile a day commute using 87 Octane. I think that could be inproved by
 bumping up the C/R a little, but then I might need to use 89 octane for
 another $.15 a gal.  I'm not ready to adapt a knock sensor and change out 
my
 distributor yet. Also, I don't have an O/D tranny, but I'm not on the Hwy,.
 much, But, I do run 205/75-15 Yokohama Avid's which are a little taller 
than
 what my odometer's calibrated for too.
 Cheers,
 Wayne Lee
 Douglas,MA
 58 TR3
 64 TR4
 75 TR6 Daily Driver
 Lola T598  Track Day Car
>
>
> Bob Lang Wrote:
> "But to your point, changing the carb size does not help fuel economy. 
> What you need to do to get better fuel economy is to increase the 
> volumetric efficiency, That means optimize the ignition timing and sprak 
> control and stuff like that".

From MJK at nixonvan.com  Mon Jun 16 12:53:12 2008
From: MJK at nixonvan.com (Mike Keenan)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 14:53:12 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Carb woes?
Message-ID: <s8567e64.059@mail2.nixonvan.com>

I have a 74 TR6 with rebuilt engine and recently overhauled Webers. I am
experiencing the following problems:
1. hard to start when cold
2. very rough idle at start up, then smoothes out after 30 seconds or so, but
still need to pull the choke out , maybe a little less than = inch to drive
well
3. after driving for 15 minutes or so, the performance degrades, idle drops,
and need to pull choke out to maintain.
4. when  this happens, an especially noticeable change occurs in the exhaust
note when coasting in any gear, especially going downhill...the sound is
noticeably weaker and somewhat tinny, with some metallic-sounding (but weak)
backfires(?), and then often a somewhat louder metallic clunk when
reaccererating (a stuck carb?).
Because the engine seems strong and smooth when pushed to higher rpms when
still, and when accelerating, I'm guessing this is a carb or other fuel
issue.
Any help would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Mike Keenan

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Jun 16 13:10:22 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 15:10:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity
Message-ID: <13857341.919081213643422822.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web10-z02>

Stan;

Several listers DID write back, but none were as specific as your posting just now. Thanks! I just bought three 12 oz. bottles of DOT 5. The VIP store by me had to order it for me. Seems like DOT 5 use isn't all that common (not sure why -- the expense?).I'm also planning on installing Speedbleeder screws on a four corners.  Anyway, thanks, Stan. I'll keep the third bottle in the trunk along with the tool kit.

Dave



---- "Foster wrote: 
> I don't have any record of this being answered, hopefully Dave got the info he needed out of band.
> 
> I recently drained my system to fit new brake lines and I refilled and bled the system last night. I used the entire contents of two 325ml bottles of DOT5. The first one filled both chambers of the master cylinder. The second one filled the plumbing with a small amount ending up on the bleed bottle. I have bleed valves on all four corners so I don't have a lot of waste.
> 
> Stan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 1:31 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity
> 
> Hello List!
> 
> I am looking to switch to DOT 5 brake fluid and, with a small bottle running about $8, I didn't want to buy much more than I had to. Can someone please tell me about how much fluid it takes to flush and fill the system (brake lines and reservoir)? Many thanks!
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Dave

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jun 16 13:47:56 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 15:47:56 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity
In-Reply-To: <13857341.919081213643422822.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
References: <13857341.919081213643422822.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <000301c8cfe9$e19cac10$210110ac@bobspc>

Dave,
My guess is the reason DOT5 isn't that readily available and/or in larger
sized bottles is that you can't use it in cars with anti-lock brakes. With
most "modern" cars having anti-lock brakes, the demand is for there for
DOT5. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 3:10 PM
To: Foster, Stan
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity

Stan;

Several listers DID write back, but none were as specific as your posting
just now. Thanks! I just bought three 12 oz. bottles of DOT 5. The VIP store
by me had to order it for me. Seems like DOT 5 use isn't all that common
(not sure why -- the expense?).I'm also planning on installing Speedbleeder
screws on a four corners.  Anyway, thanks, Stan. I'll keep the third bottle
in the trunk along with the tool kit.

Dave



---- "Foster wrote: 
> I don't have any record of this being answered, hopefully Dave got the
info he needed out of band.
> 
> I recently drained my system to fit new brake lines and I refilled and
bled the system last night. I used the entire contents of two 325ml bottles
of DOT5. The first one filled both chambers of the master cylinder. The
second one filled the plumbing with a small amount ending up on the bleed
bottle. I have bleed valves on all four corners so I don't have a lot of
waste.
> 
> Stan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net 
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of 
> forzion at maine.rr.com
> Sent: Thursday, June 05, 2008 1:31 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Brake Fluid Capacity
> 
> Hello List!
> 
> I am looking to switch to DOT 5 brake fluid and, with a small bottle
running about $8, I didn't want to buy much more than I had to. Can someone
please tell me about how much fluid it takes to flush and fill the system
(brake lines and reservoir)? Many thanks!
> 
> Cheers!
> 
> Dave
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
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Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1504 - Release Date: 6/15/2008
5:52 PM

From rick.carroll at teradyne.com  Mon Jun 16 14:01:55 2008
From: rick.carroll at teradyne.com (rick.carroll at teradyne.com)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:01:55 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Rick Carroll/Bos/Teradyne is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OFFAB69920.2FBC0D66-ON8525746A.006E0A43-8525746A.006E0A43@notes.teradyne.com>

I will be out of the office starting  06/16/2008 and will not return until
06/23/2008.

 Please contact Ching-tin Lee for general issues in the Allentown Office at
610-266-3000 ext 15 if you need assistance.

Regards,

Rick

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Jun 16 14:05:36 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:05:36 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
In-Reply-To: <20130360.900411213637612556.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
References: <20130360.900411213637612556.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web10-z02>
Message-ID: <000401c8cfec$59ae8460$210110ac@bobspc>

Dave,
My guess is any butyl based sound deadening material works, some better then
others and price may or may not be a factor in how good a job it does. What
it really comes down to is............how good are your old ears to discern
the differences? I definitely hear a differences in how the doors sound/feel
when closed but a lot of that sound improvement was in re-doing the window
channels and eliminating those rattles. It's funny but every time I take my
car off the road for the winter rehab work, I forget how it sounded before
and I've usually introduced some new sounds. The TBI conversion changed the
exhaust note a little and brought into play the clicking of the injectors.
This year the Toyota tranny, Nissan diff and all new rear suspension
bushings created even newer sounds. But the bottom line is.....with the top
down and the exhaust doing its thing......I can't hear anything anyway! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 1:34 PM
To: Corey Sherman
Cc: 6 pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation

Corey;

Check out http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/conclusion/

I used Second Skin's Damplifier (http://www.secondskinaudio.com). It was
rated as best by the testing methods used on the website above.
Additionally, I am installing their Overkill product in the doors and in the
cockpit as well as the rear panel (in front of the gas tank). It's my own
feeling but sometimes "cheap" works, sometimes not.... After spending as
much as I have to date on this car, getting cheap here didn't make sense, to
me. Buy the way, I didn't use these products "under the jute" but in place
of it....

Cheers!

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


---- Corey Sherman <cm.sherman at verizon.net> wrote: 
> What is the list's opinion on sound and heat insulation products: Dynamat
(xtreme or original) vs FatMat or others. Working on restoring the old TR6
and looking to upgrade the original paddings below the juke - doors, floor
panels and tunnels.
> Corey
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 270.3.0/1504 - Release Date: 6/15/2008
5:52 PM

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jun 16 14:16:34 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:16:34 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Carb woes?
In-Reply-To: <s8567e64.059@mail2.nixonvan.com>
References: <s8567e64.059@mail2.nixonvan.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806161501370.30658@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

There's no easy way to answer Weber questions via e-mail. Instead, what 
you need to do is get that puppy on a chassis dyno and get some numbers. 
Most importantly, you need to get the fuel/air numbers.

Webers can be tuned about a million different ways. That said, most of the 
DCOE 40's that I've seen are set up way too rich, and once you start 
getting close on the jetting, you pick up a remarkable amount of power.

Also - don't even think about tuning your webers 'till you know for 
certain that your ignition is PERFECT. I really mean this. My first few 
months with DCOE 40's got me on a first-name basis with a Weber parts 
company and I ran up $500 worth of weber jet orders. The problem was 
eventually discovered to be that the distributor was not working right (I 
had no mechanical advance). Talk about frustrating.

At any rate, to get to a working system, you need to tell us what you have 
and then we can help you dial in. Something like:

Weber DCOE40
30 mm chokes
4.5 aux venturi
F11 emulsion tubes
125 mains
160 air correctors
45F9 idle jets
40 pump jet

optional (but critical) float setting (and float type - brass of plastic)

Then your ignition settings:
10 BTDC at idle (or whatever)
Total advance 30 degrees
spark gap
wire type

Once all that stuff is clear, next steps can be identified.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From fishplate at charter.net  Mon Jun 16 16:11:42 2008
From: fishplate at charter.net (Jeff Scarbrough)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 18:11:42 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<42359.22344.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <20080616221135.YKQS4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>

At 08:43 AM 6/16/2008, Raymond Hatfield wrote:

>I plan on taking my TR engine up to 9.5:1 based on the fact that my 
>Miata runs on regular with that compression ratio - it will ping a 
>tiny bit under hard acceleration UNLESS I'm using E10 
>gasoline.  Never pings with mid-range or hi octane gas.

Yes, but doesn't your Miata have a knock sensor that retards the 
timing upon detecting a ping?

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Jun 16 17:04:17 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 17:04:17 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Going Off List for a while
Message-ID: <4856F171.7020504@tscusa.org>

Hi All,
I am going to be going off the lists starting the 20th of June as I 
transition into a new job.

I need to do this because I have over 1000 emails in my Triumph inbox 
that I have not read, over 400 in the Triumph Stag inbox, so they are 
all going for the preemptive delete this Friday.

However, my Triumph related email addresses will not change and I will 
be checking emails at least on the weekends, so keep in touch.

Triumph Trans America 2009 Charity Drive Status will be updated at least 
monthly on the TTA site
http://www.triumphstransamerica.org.uk

Cheers!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
http://www.triumphstransamerica.org.uk
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From tpdwinch at yahoo.com  Mon Jun 16 17:42:54 2008
From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 16:42:54 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] 3 carbs
Message-ID: <739199.72613.qm@web36101.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Want to thank all of you who addressed my question. The majority of you suggested, for economy as well as better performance, to go to TBI.
Dale

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Mon Jun 16 22:48:00 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Mon, 16 Jun 2008 21:48:00 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
In-Reply-To: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>
Message-ID: <20080617045143.2E5BE18766D@autox.team.net>

I just bought Damplifier from second skin. One box for about a $100 looks
like it will cover enough area for me.  I haven't installed it yet, but it
had the best reviews for performance I could find.
Andy

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Corey Sherman
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 7:32 AM
To: 6 pack
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation

What is the list's opinion on sound and heat insulation products: Dynamat
(xtreme or original) vs FatMat or others. Working on restoring the old TR6
and looking to upgrade the original paddings below the juke - doors, floor
panels and tunnels.
Corey
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as apackard68 at comcast.net

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Mon Jun 16 23:58:05 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 01:58:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <20080616221135.YKQS4495.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCEEMFGGAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

I have a knock sensor on my fuel injected supercharged TR6. It's mounted
near where the ignition coil once lived but is now disabled. It was very
effective at retarding the timing but because these solid lifter engines are
so noisy it was far too sensitive. Even tuning it's sensitivity back it
would often retard the timing way too far causing the engine to stumble.
Maybe someday I'll look into trying it again, perhaps on the other side of
the engine away from the valve train would work a tad better? As it is now
the engine is 7.75:1 running high test gas with up to 8.5LBS of boost and
timing at times is as far out as 34 degrees and no pinging. Without boost it
would run out to 36 degrees but I worried about burning a piston and
chickened out setting it back to 34 max.

Rick Patton
75TR6sci
rick at pattonmachine.com



> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 6:12 PM
> To: Raymond Hatfield; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost
>snip

 >gasoline.  Never pings with mid-range or hi octane gas.
>
> Yes, but doesn't your Miata have a knock sensor that retards the
> timing upon detecting a ping?

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jun 17 00:22:31 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 06:22:31 GMT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV8D124FA7F1925F840F855F4A80@phx.gbl>

Rick---The MSD-BTM inition unit works well in retarding the spark timing. This Martel Bros. unit includes a remote control timing adjuster that can be mounted anywhere you choose. One can dial in the amount of retard based on the boost pressure sensed. I.E. anywhere from .5 degrees per pound of boost up to three degrees per lb. of boost. (Max. of 20 deg. of retard)  A vacuum hose connects from a port on the intake manifold directly to the BTM. You can Tee off this line to an in-cockpit gauge, of course.
 Much more reliable than knock sensors, for the TR6.

This sort of tool allows one to dial in a little more initial spark advance for when off-boost, knowing that some safety is there when cylinder pressures "spike"!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Rick
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 10:58 PM
To: Jeff Scarbrough, Raymond Hatfield, triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost

I have a knock sensor on my fuel injected supercharged TR6. It's mounted
near where the ignition coil once lived but is now disabled. It was very
effective at retarding the timing but because these solid lifter engines are
so noisy it was far too sensitive. Even tuning it's sensitivity back it
would often retard the timing way too far causing the engine to stumble.
Maybe someday I'll look into trying it again, perhaps on the other side of
the engine away from the valve train would work a tad better? As it is now
the engine is 7.75:1 running high test gas with up to 8.5LBS of boost and
timing at times is as far out as 34 degrees and no pinging. Without boost it
would run out to 36 degrees but I worried about burning a piston and
chickened out setting it back to 34 max.

Rick Patton
75TR6sci
rick at pattonmachine.com



> -----Original Message-----
> From: triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:triumphs-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On
> Behalf Of Jeff Scarbrough
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2008 6:12 PM
> To: Raymond Hatfield; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
> Subject: Re: [TR] [6pack] Compression boost
>snip

 >gasoline.  Never pings with mid-range or hi octane gas.
>
> Yes, but doesn't your Miata have a knock sensor that retards the
> timing upon detecting a ping?
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 17 05:22:16 2008
From: patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net (Patrick Bloem)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 04:22:16 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] TR250 stripe
Message-ID: <312860.5204.qm@web81108.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Andy,
When I did my stripe I used Dupont Centari no. B8416A.
Another is Martin Senour no. 90T2454. I have attached
a picture for your viewing. If you want the dimensions
for the stripe masking I can send these also. I
received these from TRF.

Cheers
Patrick Bloem
East Grand Rapids, MI
68 TR250
73 TR6
86 XJ6 Vandenplas



>Hello list:
>
>Can anyone on the list provide a good paint code for
>the silver stripe
> on a
>TR250?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of StripeCU.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of StripeCU2.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of Fresh1.jpg]

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Tue Jun 17 10:45:45 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob Peglow)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 09:45:45 -0700
Subject: [6pack] brake-line failure bulb TR6
Message-ID: <006001c8d099$96cb03c0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

TR6 brake-line failure bulb out.
Can this bulb be replaced without dropping the dashboard?
I see the bezel will unscrew, I am concerned about ass'y dropping back.
Regards,
Bob

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 17 10:54:34 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 09:54:34 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
Message-ID: <545913.26366.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

This topic reminds me of something that Ibve never quite understood about
pre-detonation pinging and knocking.
B 
We talk about smoothing out combustion
chamber hot spots, higher octane gas, and spark advance after boosting the
compression ratio. But I donbt understand how spark advance plays into it.
Isnbt the pre-detonation a result of the air/fuel charge igniting before the
spark anyway? 
B 
Anyone want to layout what the factors are in all their
technical glory?
Kendall
San Clemente, CA
(engine under going AUTOpsy right
now, details to the list soon)

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jun 17 13:25:38 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 19:25:38 GMT
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV112AAFAE73C1AD256A4DACF4A80@phx.gbl>

Kendall---Chapters in books have been written about this phenomena, but let's see if this can be shortened.

PREIGNITION occurs when the charge (air/fuel mix) fires without benefit of the engine's normal spark event, such as hot spots somewhere in the combustion chamber.

DETONATION is what gasoline does. We want it to, as this is what drives the engine. What we don't want is for a second detonation to take place while the piston is rising.
This other detonation occurs when excess pressure has built up at the flame front, at the top of the piston, and creates a "second" flame front. This second front is usually started at the opposite side (of the piston) from the spark plug. When the two fronts meet before the piston reaches TDC, a knock occurs. Delaying the spark timing, either thru a physical setting by the tuner, and/or thru some automatic device that senses pressure or knock, can reduce or eliminate this destructive force.

Fuel that has a higher octane is slower burning, which gives pistons more time to "reach the top" before another detonation can occur.

Cooling down the (air/fuel) charge is another way to reduce or delay detonation. This can be done by lowering the CR, or the temp. of the fuel or air.

Any help?

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Kendall Larsen
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 9:54 AM
To: 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost

This topic reminds me of something that Ibve never quite understood about
pre-detonation pinging and knocking.
B 
We talk about smoothing out combustion
chamber hot spots, higher octane gas, and spark advance after boosting the
compression ratio. But I donbt understand how spark advance plays into it.
Isnbt the pre-detonation a result of the air/fuel charge igniting before the
spark anyway? 
B 
Anyone want to layout what the factors are in all their
technical glory?
Kendall
San Clemente, CA
(engine under going AUTOpsy right
now, details to the list soon)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net  Tue Jun 17 14:10:15 2008
From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 13:10:15 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
Message-ID: <437895.87206.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi Dick,
 
Thanks for the reply. It appears that most of my confusion came
from lumping pre-ignition, pinging, knock, detonation, everything all
together. Also whats becoming more apparent is that the burning of the
fuel/air is not instantaneous. Things are clearer now, but as you mentioned,
chapters of books have been written, I should probably read some of those if I
really want to get into it any further! 
 
Kendall

----- Original Message
----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net>
To: Kendall Larsen
<mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>; 6pack List <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday,
June 17, 2008 12:25:38 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
Kendall---Chapters in books have been written about this phenomena, but let's
see if this can be shortened.

PREIGNITION occurs when the charge (air/fuel
mix) fires without benefit of the engine's normal spark event, such as hot
spots somewhere in the combustion chamber.

DETONATION is what gasoline does.
We want it to, as this is what drives the engine. What we don't want is for a
second detonation to take place while the piston is rising.
This other
detonation occurs when excess pressure has built up at the flame front, at the
top of the piston, and creates a "second" flame front. This second front is
usually started at the opposite side (of the piston) from the spark plug. When
the two fronts meet before the piston reaches TDC, a knock occurs. Delaying
the spark timing, either thru a physical setting by the tuner, and/or thru
some automatic device that senses pressure or knock, can reduce or eliminate
this destructive force.

Fuel that has a higher octane is slower burning,
which gives pistons more time to "reach the top" before another detonation can
occur.

Cooling down the (air/fuel) charge is another way to reduce or delay
detonation.. This can be done by lowering the CR, or the temp. of the fuel or
air.

Any help?

Dick

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Jun 17 14:14:58 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 20:14:58 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <437895.87206.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <437895.87206.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1679E0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Kendall, there is ton of material available online, just enter "pre-ignition"
into Google and be prepared for a long evening of reading.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall
Larsen
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 4:10 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor; 6pack List
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Compression boost

Hi Dick,

Thanks for the reply. It appears that most of my confusion came
from lumping pre-ignition, pinging, knock, detonation, everything all
together. Also whats becoming more apparent is that the burning of the
fuel/air is not instantaneous. Things are clearer now, but as you mentioned,
chapters of books have been written, I should probably read some of those if
I
really want to get into it any further!

Kendall

foster at hp.com

From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com  Tue Jun 17 18:35:58 2008
From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 19:35:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR250 stripe
Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB092A06@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local>

Patrick et al-



Another option may be to use the stripe that is sold on Ebay. I just purchased
one and it is installed. My car was restored by someone else and I have not
seen it yet, but will on Friday. I am told it nice and saved a lot of money
over painting the stripe.

I will have the car at TRF's Summer Party this weekend for anyone interested.

The box it came in had a Sports and Classics logo so it may be produced by
them- not sure.

Hope this helps-


Steve Thornton
Bowling Green, KY

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Patrick Bloem
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 6:22 AM
To: apackard68 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 stripe

Andy,
When I did my stripe I used Dupont Centari no. B8416A.
Another is Martin Senour no. 90T2454. I have attached a picture for your
viewing. If you want the dimensions for the stripe masking I can send these
also. I received these from TRF.

Cheers
Patrick Bloem
East Grand Rapids, MI
68 TR250
73 TR6
86 XJ6 Vandenplas



>Hello list:
>
>Can anyone on the list provide a good paint code for the silver stripe
>on a TR250?

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
StripeCU.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
StripeCU2.jpg]

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/pjpeg which had a name of
Fresh1.jpg] _______________________________________________

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From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Jun 17 18:44:09 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 20:44:09 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tranny tunnel side cover
Message-ID: <48585A59.6030306@maine.rr.com>

Hey folks;

I'm about to install new carpeting over my molded plastic tranny cover 
and I realize I haven't provided myself any easy access to the right 
angle speedo or the A-overdrive service access points.  In the Roger 
Williams "How to Restore....." book, page 105 shows  a cover plate 
screwed to the side of the tranny tunnel for easier A-overdrive/speedo 
drive access. I have tried to fashion my own cover plate, realizing it 
doesn't need to be anything fancy -- but, it ought to fit well enough to 
screw to the tranny cover. Sigh.... I am no metalsmith. Anyone know 
where such a cover plate can be had?  Certainly, the Big 3 have nothing 
to offer. Anyone able to offer assistance/advice?

Thanks for any help,

Cheers,

Dave '74 Six

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Jun 17 19:08:54 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:08:54 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tranny tunnel side cover
In-Reply-To: <b56059a30806171800m146d7226yba7321655687daf5@mail.gmail.com>
References: <48585A59.6030306@maine.rr.com>
	<b56059a30806171800m146d7226yba7321655687daf5@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <48586026.30106@maine.rr.com>

Alistair;

Yes. Sounds very interesting.  If you DO make a cover, as you're 
planning to, you could
make a spare, for me!  :- )

The cover seems like something that should just be a standard "optional" 
plate. Enough
of us use those plastic tranny covers and those wanting access to A or J 
type overdrives
and/or speedo drives would want cover plates for them, to make life 
easier for us, when
service time came...

Cheers!

Dave



Alistair Hewitt wrote:

> Dave
>  
> Not sure if this will work, but I have been planning to fashion just 
> such a cover, and this is what I came up with.  
>  
> * Work out the area you want the cover to occupy
> * put a couple of layers of aluminum foil on there
> * lay a layer or two of fibreglass (with resin, of course)
> * Let it set
> * Hope that the layers of foil mean it doesn't stick to the tunnel!
> * Cut the fibreglass to a tidy shape if you like
> * Mark the area of your cover on the tunnel
> * cut out the section of tunnel, smaller than the new cover, to allow 
> for fasteners
> * glue the cut off tunnel section to the fibreglass (optional, I guess 
> - to make sure it fits in place better)
> * attach with self tapping screws - or velcro if you like.
> I can't think of any reason it wouldn't work, but as I say, it is just 
> a plan at this point.   if you try it out do let me know if it works!
>  
> Cheers
> Alistair
> On Tue, Jun 17, 2008 at 8:44 PM, David Friedlander 
> <forzion at maine.rr.com <mailto:forzion at maine.rr.com>> wrote:
>
>     Hey folks;
>
>     I'm about to install new carpeting over my molded plastic tranny cover
>     and I realize I haven't provided myself any easy access to the right
>     angle speedo or the A-overdrive service access points.  In the Roger
>     Williams "How to Restore....." book, page 105 shows  a cover plate
>     screwed to the side of the tranny tunnel for easier A-overdrive/speedo
>     drive access. I have tried to fashion my own cover plate, realizing it
>     doesn't need to be anything fancy -- but, it ought to fit well
>     enough to
>     screw to the tranny cover. Sigh.... I am no metalsmith. Anyone know
>     where such a cover plate can be had?  Certainly, the Big 3 have
>     nothing
>     to offer. Anyone able to offer assistance/advice?
>
>     Thanks for any help,
>
>     Cheers,
>
>     Dave '74 Six
>     _______________________________________________
>
>     Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>     6pack at autox.team.net <mailto:6pack at autox.team.net>
>     http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>     http://www.team.net/archive
>
>     You are subscribed as alistair.hewitt at gmail.com
>     <mailto:alistair.hewitt at gmail.com>

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Jun 17 19:15:08 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 21:15:08 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tranny tunnel side cover
In-Reply-To: <48585A59.6030306@maine.rr.com>
References: <48585A59.6030306@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <002401c8d0e0$c1a7caf0$210110ac@bobspc>

Dave,
Can you just cut the hole in the Poly Tunnel and then use some metal
flashing as a cover and use self tapping screws to hold it in place.
Or.....just use heavy duty Velcro to secure it. The flashing is thin enough
to mold to the tunnel shape. Your padding and rug will also help hold it all
in place. Go cruise the aisles of Lowes or HD.....I pick up some off-beat
ideas just looking at the stuff that's available.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of David Friedlander
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2008 8:44 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Tranny tunnel side cover

Hey folks;

I'm about to install new carpeting over my molded plastic tranny cover and I
realize I haven't provided myself any easy access to the right angle speedo
or the A-overdrive service access points.  In the Roger Williams "How to
Restore....." book, page 105 shows  a cover plate screwed to the side of the
tranny tunnel for easier A-overdrive/speedo drive access. I have tried to
fashion my own cover plate, realizing it doesn't need to be anything fancy
-- but, it ought to fit well enough to screw to the tranny cover. Sigh.... I
am no metalsmith. Anyone know where such a cover plate can be had?
Certainly, the Big 3 have nothing to offer. Anyone able to offer
assistance/advice?

Thanks for any help,

Cheers,

Dave '74 Six
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

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7:20 AM

From Btp44 at aol.com  Tue Jun 17 20:05:20 2008
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 22:05:20 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Tranny tunnel side cover
Message-ID: <cfe.3396fd7a.3589c760@aol.com>

Check out Tony Rhodes site-http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/
I don't know if they are currently available.
Berry Price



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Tue Jun 17 20:32:43 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Tue, 17 Jun 2008 22:32:43 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Tranny tunnel side cover
In-Reply-To: <cfe.3396fd7a.3589c760@aol.com>
References: <cfe.3396fd7a.3589c760@aol.com>
Message-ID: <485873CB.70100@maine.rr.com>

THAT'S the ticket. I'll write to Tony now...

Thanks, Berry!

Dave



Btp44 at aol.com wrote:

>Check out Tony Rhodes site-http://home.comcast.net/~rhodes/
>I don't know if they are currently available.
>Berry Price
>
>
>
>**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
>fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu  Wed Jun 18 14:24:01 2008
From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 14:24:01 -0600
Subject: [6pack] ARE Triple ZS heat shield...  review and rant!
Message-ID: <485B5498@webmail.colostate.edu>

I received one of the first production models of the ARE heat-shields for the 
Triple ZS set up. The "rant" mentioned in the subject line is not about the 
quality of the ARE product. It's fine, though I might offer some tips for 
further production when using this heat-shield with other products out there.

Along with the heat-shield, I also purchased a Rat-Co throttle cable 
conversion. These two items mount in separate areas of the carburettor so I 
thought there would be no interference. The ARE heat-shield even has a cut out 
for the throttle linkage to pass through where the Rat-Co cable can also pass 
through.

The carburettor mounted brace for the Rat-Co cable and the ARE heat-shield did 
interfere with each other on the backside of the rear carburettor though. So, 
I thought about a couple of different approaches to the problem. I could 
modify the heat shield to also hold the cable, but it might flex too much. I 
could also modify the heat-shield just where the interference was. I chose the 
latter and all it took was a little re-shaping of one corner of the 
heat-shield.

Okay, so the slight modification worked, and now both the brace for the Rat-Co 
cable and the ARE heat-shield are both installed and get along well.

Now for the "rant" part. The ARE heat-shield bolts to the carburettors between 
the front of the carburettor and the air cleaner. Not a big deal if your using 
individual air cleaners. Lucky me though, I have one of Richard Good's "Ram 
Air" boxes, so the bolts for all three carburettors have to be lined up with 
the heatshield, air box and carburettors all at the same time. The fun is 
furthered here by the very close clearance of the "Ram Air" box to the inner 
fender where the bolts for the front carburettor are. All of the gymnastics 
needed to get all of this lined up isn't even really that bad. Until you have 
to do it three times in one night because you keep forgetting stuff. DOH!

So there you have it, the "rant" is about my absentmindedness while putting it 
all together. The parts are all fine. I'm the idiot. I have to remove the air 
box once more because I forgot that I have to re-sync the carburettors because 
of some other things that I did while I had it all apart. When I remembered 
that last night, right after I finished puttng the air-box for the third time 
in two hours, I put the wrenches down, turned off the garage light and went 
inside. Now I won't be able to get back to it until Saturday afternoon at the 
earliest. Then, I'll try and make a list to follow. Or at least attack it with 
a fresh brain. ;)

Shawn J. Loseke
Fort Collins, CO
http://www.triumphowners.com/79   (1972 TR6)
http://www.triumphowners.com/690  (1978 TR8)

From DLylis at aol.com  Wed Jun 18 19:11:45 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 21:11:45 EDT
Subject: [6pack] ARE Triple ZS heat shield...  review and rant!
Message-ID: <c2d.38de4919.358b0c51@aol.com>

Shawn,
If I understand your rant correctly, this may help you.  I have dual  Z-S 
with the stock box and heat shield.  I got tired of the lining up of  the holes 
so I got a threaded rod to fit into one bolt hole in each  carb.  I cut two 
pieces to the proper length and filed the ends nice and  flat and smooth.  I 
threaded one into each carb and then run the heat  shield and the box onto the rod 
sticking out and they hold it in place while I  run in the remaining bolts.  
When I am done with that I put a nut on the  end of the threaded rod to hold 
the box on and adjust the rod so when the nut is  tightened down on the box the 
rod does not stick out past the nut. 
YMMV
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Wed Jun 18 23:11:08 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 18 Jun 2008 22:11:08 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Drivetrain on chassis
Message-ID: <200806190511.m5J5B8rn024045@upsa-web113.ofoto.com>

I figure everyone likes pictures, so here's my progress tonight after receiving my new flywheel bolts from Moss today.  Next up is the solid driveshaft and a new muffler system.  Maybe next weekend the body can meet up with the chassis.
Andy
CD6746L


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.92lpt5cz&x=0&y=-zfpxf8&localeid=en_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've 
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want 
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can 
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.




------------------------------------------------------------
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Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada

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From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Jun 19 09:45:04 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:45:04 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Drivetrain on chassis
In-Reply-To: <200806190511.m5J5B8rn024045@upsa-web113.ofoto.com>
References: <200806190511.m5J5B8rn024045@upsa-web113.ofoto.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA167E22@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Very nice job and I love the oriental rug, must get one for my garage :-)

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
apackard68 at comcast.net
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 1:11 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Drivetrain on chassis

I figure everyone likes pictures, so here's my progress tonight after
receiving my new flywheel bolts from Moss today.  Next up is the solid
driveshaft and a new muffler system.  Maybe next weekend the body can meet up
with the chassis.
Andy
CD6746L


You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery!
Just click on View Photos to get started.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.92lpt5cz&x=0&y=-zfpxf8&localeid=e
n_US
If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or
if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've
signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want
and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos.

Enjoy!
Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're
an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can
join the Gallery for free.
http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp

Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Jun 19 09:44:49 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 08:44:49 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <004f01c8cdca$3e1599b0$59449e18@alan>
	<41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA0ED9F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC04008CA7@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Alan, Stan:

	I am coming to this discussion very late, but a data point is
that I run 9.6:1 CR, with a 270 degree cam on regular (87 octane R+M/2),
never the slightest hint of pinging.
	I run the factory timing of 10BTDC static, 4ATDC dynamic with a
stock dizzy, 13 degrees of mechanical advance at the dizzy.
	I have the later head with the smaller exhaust valve and I run
Zenith carbs with B1AR needles. The plugs are a nice grey brown color.
In short, no issues. YMMV.

	Vance


      Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Foster, Stan
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 8:09 PM
To: Alan Salvatore; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression boost

My understanding is that you can go at least as high as 9.5:1 or perhaps
9.6:1
and still be fine on regular gas. At least I hope so, I had my head and
block
machined for 9.6:1 based on that assumption. It would not ruin my whole
day if
I had use a higher octane however.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Alan
Salvatore
Sent: Friday, June 13, 2008 10:56 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost

I am in the process of rebuilding my 76 motor.
I had it bored out 20 over and got a G2 cam, aluminum flywheel.
I couldn't decide what to do with the head.  I just left it at the
machine
shop and am going to have it milled for
9 to 1 compression.
The nice thing about the 7.5 to 1 compression was that it ran on regular
gas.
Not to sure what effect the 9 to 1 will have on gas requirement;
or if I just should have  bumped the compression even higher.

Al
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Jun 19 09:50:16 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 08:50:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
In-Reply-To: <294239.79164.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <294239.79164.qm@web51410.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC04008CBD@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Mike:

	If you are running high ratio rockers, going back to stock will
make quite a difference in the idle quality. I must say that based on
the GP2 cam specs I find your idle issues not too surprising. I have
always felt that the GP2 cam was pushing the envelope for a mild cam.
	Anyway, check your valve lash, and set it according to the cam
specs, don't use the factory lash settings. And if you are running high
ratio rockers, don't forget to increase the lash accordingly - high
ratio rockers require more lash than stock rockers.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 5:43 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Timing and compression

Al,
&nbsp;
I found the Goodparts G-2 cam to be a little more radical than&nbsp;I
expected.&nbsp; It works fine but it is lumpier than expected&nbsp;at
idle. Most people who hear it at idle and know about these
things&nbsp;ask if I "have a cam" in the car so it is noticeable.&nbsp;
I think I have between 9.5 and 10.0 to 1 compression ratio on my car
and&nbsp;have to use premium. <snip>

Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
_______________________________________________

From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu  Thu Jun 19 10:15:39 2008
From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 10:15:39 -0600
Subject: [6pack] ARE Triple ZS heat shield...  review and rant!
Message-ID: <485B7C28@webmail.colostate.edu>

David, good idea for others. The clearance is tight enough with the "Ram Air" 
box that I have to use the bolts through the box and then offer it all up to 
the carburettors. I've thought through ideas such as yours but it just won't 
work in my case.

The rant was more me wanting to whine to understanding ears than any form of 
complaint. :) It's actually not that bad, unless you have to do it three times 
in two hours. Trying to keep all the gaskets lined up (even after gluing them 
in place) is also part of the fun.

Shawn


>===== Original Message From DLylis at aol.com =====
>Shawn,
>If I understand your rant correctly, this may help you.  I have dual  Z-S
>with the stock box and heat shield.  I got tired of the lining up of  the 
holes
>so I got a threaded rod to fit into one bolt hole in each  carb.  I cut two
>pieces to the proper length and filed the ends nice and  flat and smooth.  I
>threaded one into each carb and then run the heat  shield and the box onto 
the rod
>sticking out and they hold it in place while I  run in the remaining bolts.
>When I am done with that I put a nut on the  end of the threaded rod to hold
>the box on and adjust the rod so when the nut is  tightened down on the box 
the
>rod does not stick out past the nut.
>YMMV
>David  Lylis
>69 TR6 CC26160L
>60 TR3A TS74461LO
>
>
>
>**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
>fuel-efficient used cars.      
(http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jun 19 13:01:44 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 19:01:44 GMT
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV3E08FD6F883F97FDCB2AFF4AA0@phx.gbl>

Vance---Why would "higher ratio rockers" require more valve lash?

Dick   
From: Navarrette, Vance 
Subject: [6pack] GP2 characteristics 
Date: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:50 AM 
 
     Mike:

 ...And if you are running high
ratio rockers, don't forget to increase the lash accordingly - high
ratio rockers require more lash than stock rockers.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast


______________________________________________
_______________________________________________


-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:50 AM
To: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics

	Mike:

	If you are running high ratio rockers, going back to stock will
make quite a difference in the idle quality. I must say that based on
the GP2 cam specs I find your idle issues not too surprising. I have
always felt that the GP2 cam was pushing the envelope for a mild cam.
	Anyway, check your valve lash, and set it according to the cam
specs, don't use the factory lash settings. And if you are running high
ratio rockers, don't forget to increase the lash accordingly - high
ratio rockers require more lash than stock rockers.


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of michael lunsford
Sent: Saturday, June 14, 2008 5:43 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Timing and compression

Al,
&nbsp;
I found the Goodparts G-2 cam to be a little more radical than&nbsp;I
expected.&nbsp; It works fine but it is lumpier than expected&nbsp;at
idle. Most people who hear it at idle and know about these
things&nbsp;ask if I "have a cam" in the car so it is noticeable.&nbsp;
I think I have between 9.5 and 10.0 to 1 compression ratio on my car
and&nbsp;have to use premium. <snip>

Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;
_______________________________________________
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Thu Jun 19 13:22:13 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 15:22:13 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV3E08FD6F883F97FDCB2AFF4AA0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV3E08FD6F883F97FDCB2AFF4AA0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806191518320.10283@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 19 Jun 2008, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Vance---Why would "higher ratio rockers" require more valve lash?

I'm not Vance - he can speak for himself. But the dudes that make higher 
ratio roller rockers warn you to "adjust" your valve lash based on the 
rocker-arm ratio. I think it has to do with reducing the shock on the cam 
and lifter due to the larger "ramp" load - with a high-ratio rocker, the 
cam is actually lifting more (or technically there is more inertial load).

Undoubtedly, someone will find error with my reply, but the Goodparts cam 
sheets warn you to adjust base on which rocker setup you have. I am 100% 
certain of that as I just read one on Sunday.

> Dick

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From FSZEK at aol.com  Thu Jun 19 17:31:37 2008
From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 19:31:37 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Compression boost
Message-ID: <cb3.34b4ebc8.358c4659@aol.com>

Hey Vance,
 
  What kind of mileage do you get  ?
 
                                                    Enviously,
                                                                     Frank,in 
Ohio



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Jun 19 17:33:41 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 19:33:41 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Fixing Paint Chips
Message-ID: <000001c8d264$ea480490$210110ac@bobspc>

The downside of driving my car as much as I do is that it picks up its share
of stone hits which chip the paint. I had an auto paint shop mix me some
touch up paint and wonder what's the best way to fix all these small chips.
I tried using a very small fine tipped brush but the paint doesn't really
fill the "hole" so there's a very defined edge between the old and the new.
So my questions are:
- Should I first strip the polish from the spots I want to touch up and
what's the best thing to use for stripping polish?
- Do you have to wet sand to get the old and new paint to "blend" and get
rid of the chip edge? If so what do you recommend using for wet sanding?

I'm in no way trying to achieve a concurs finish here.....I'm just trying to
fill and protect.

Thanks
Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

From rsh17 at msn.com  Thu Jun 19 18:36:35 2008
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Thu, 19 Jun 2008 19:36:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Fixing Paint Chips
In-Reply-To: <000001c8d264$ea480490$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c8d264$ea480490$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W5344BD4B72BD4E99F14016AAA50@phx.gbl>

Make sure the chip is clean of dirt, wax etc,  rubbing alcohol will do for
cleaner. If chip is just to the primer keep adding a dot of paint until it is
higher than your chip. Then take a very small block of wood (auto paint stores
also sell a little foam rubbing block with fine sand paper on it, just for
this) wrap with 1100-1600 grit sand paper then wet sand until the new paint
bubble is flush to the old, until the line around the bubble is gone. then
work it with rubbing compound then glazing (swirl remover) compound to get the
shine back. A small buffer works better than by hand.

NOTE- this is for single stage paint!!!!! Base coat clear is similar, but you
don't want to sand through the clear to the base coat!!! Others might pipe in
on this.

Hope this helps

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com

View My 1969 TR6 restoration @
(http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration)
 OR
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92



_________________________________________________________________
The other season of giving begins 6/24/08. Check out the im Talkathon.
http://www.imtalkathon.com?source=TXT_EML_WLH_SeasonOfGiving

From stan.foster at hp.com  Thu Jun 19 21:02:28 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 03:02:28 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Fixing Paint Chips
In-Reply-To: <BAY104-W5344BD4B72BD4E99F14016AAA50@phx.gbl>
References: <000001c8d264$ea480490$210110ac@bobspc>
	<BAY104-W5344BD4B72BD4E99F14016AAA50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA167F67@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Richard is spot on. The trick is patience.. degrease the chip, remove any
material that is loose, put some primer in the hole if you are down to bare
metal. Apply the top coat with anything that will allow you to deliver a small
drop of paint and allow it spread. A splinter of wood works as well as
anything. Let it dry for hours and if you are still below the surface add
another drop and let that dry. Once you are above the surface of the
surrounding paint let it dry for several days. Then rub down with fine grit
wet and dry to level it etc and polish.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Richard
Seaton
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 8:37 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 6 Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Fixing Paint Chips

Make sure the chip is clean of dirt, wax etc,  rubbing alcohol will do for
cleaner. If chip is just to the primer keep adding a dot of paint until it is
higher than your chip. Then take a very small block of wood (auto paint
stores
also sell a little foam rubbing block with fine sand paper on it, just for
this) wrap with 1100-1600 grit sand paper then wet sand until the new paint
bubble is flush to the old, until the line around the bubble is gone. then
work it with rubbing compound then glazing (swirl remover) compound to get
the
shine back. A small buffer works better than by hand.

NOTE- this is for single stage paint!!!!! Base coat clear is similar, but you
don't want to sand through the clear to the base coat!!! Others might pipe in
on this.

Hope this helps

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com

View My 1969 TR6 restoration @
(http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration)
 OR
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92



_________________________________________________________________
The other season of giving begins 6/24/08. Check out the im Talkathon.
http://www.imtalkathon.com?source=TXT_EML_WLH_SeasonOfGiving
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Thu Jun 19 23:55:24 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 05:55:24 GMT
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV3A6B3347CE5F5BBC1F3A7F4A50@phx.gbl>

Bob---Can't argue much with that. We know that the higher rocker ratio furthers mechanical disadvantage. Seems like a good reason to stay with the stock ratio, and just get more performance from the camshaft.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Lang
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:22 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics

On Thu, 19 Jun 2008, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Vance---Why would "higher ratio rockers" require more valve lash?

I'm not Vance - he can speak for himself. But the dudes that make higher 
ratio roller rockers warn you to "adjust" your valve lash based on the 
rocker-arm ratio. I think it has to do with reducing the shock on the cam 
and lifter due to the larger "ramp" load - with a high-ratio rocker, the 
cam is actually lifting more (or technically there is more inertial load).

Undoubtedly, someone will find error with my reply, but the Goodparts cam 
sheets warn you to adjust base on which rocker setup you have. I am 100% 
certain of that as I just read one on Sunday.

> Dick

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Jun 20 05:20:16 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 07:20:16 EDT
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
Message-ID: <bbb.2d7e8ee2.358cec70@aol.com>

Bob/Dick,
Can you explain this a little more.  I understand the concept of what  you 
are saying but am weak on the details.  
For example:  If you are using a higher ratio rocker then you want to  open 
(?) your lash more because (?) the rocker travel increases and increases  the 
event in which the valve remains open (?).  That, in my mind would  increase 
(?) the shock more as the valve assembly from the lifter to the valve  stem 
would have more free travel before the impact of compressing the valve  spring (?).
I have inserted question marks so that this will not be misconstrued as  
statements, rather, questions, which they are.
Am I even in the ball park here?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From nosto53 at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 20 09:51:04 2008
From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 08:51:04 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] HVDA and antifreeze - two questions
Message-ID: <28880.9340.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Antifreeze -
I put "Prestone" in 1997 (I got my 1972 TR6 in 1996).
In 2000 I fixed my heater and put new antifreeze too.
Now its 2008!  Is this a good time to put new antifreeze in?
Is "Peak" use?  Went do I need to put new antifreeze in?
2 years? 5 years?..... each year?
 
Gear oil -
I got my HVDA in 2003. I used "Pennzoil"(?) for my gear oil, GL-4,
75W, no synthetic (I can't remember?).
When do I change my Toyota gear oil?
Should I use a synthetic (Redline MTL)?
 
Rick Olson, '72 TR6
 

From anabil007 at comcast.net  Fri Jun 20 10:01:26 2008
From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 09:01:26 -0700
Subject: [6pack] HVDA and antifreeze - two questions
In-Reply-To: <28880.9340.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <28880.9340.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <p06240806c4818382efb6@[98.224.22.215]>

Hi Rick,
	Both of these options are  pretty much up to you,  most 
folks have their own  "traditions"  regarding these (and other) 
maintenance items.  As far as Anti-Freeze is concerned I have been 
using the "Fred Thomas" formula.
	One bottle of NoRoison
	One bottle  of Redline Water Wetter
	One Gallon of pre-mixed  Prestone
	Fill  with filtered (NOT distilled) water  ...  lasts for 
several years with no problems on both the TR3, and TR6.

	Regarding the 5  speed i use the Redline MTL  on both cars 
...   but then I am a  Redline fanatic, and  use the motor oil  in 
both  cars also.  I am sure you will get many  opinions, and this  is 
just  mine, and just that ...  an  opinion ...

GoodLuck
>Antifreeze -
>I put "Prestone" in 1997 (I got my 1972 TR6 in 1996).
>In 2000 I fixed my heater and put new antifreeze too.
>Now its 2008!  Is this a good time to put new antifreeze in?
>Is "Peak" use?  Went do I need to put new antifreeze in?
>2 years? 5 years?..... each year?
>
>Gear oil -
>I got my HVDA in 2003. I used "Pennzoil"(?) for my gear oil, GL-4,
>75W, no synthetic (I can't remember?).
>When do I change my Toyota gear oil?
>Should I use a synthetic (Redline MTL)?
>
>Rick Olson, '72 TR6


-- 
Bill  Pugh
1957 TR3 TS16765L
aka
Casper

AnnaBelle Pugh
1970 TR6 CC59179L
aka
Rosey
Wallace, CA

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jun 20 10:46:38 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 12:46:38 -0400
Subject: [6pack] HVDA and antifreeze - two questions
In-Reply-To: <28880.9340.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <28880.9340.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000601c8d2f5$380ebe90$210110ac@bobspc>

Rick,
I'd change the anti-freeze every couple of years. It's easy and cheap enough
to do. I've been using the premixed 50/50 blend. $10/gal and Wal-Mart or $8
at Sam's.

Herman's directions state the following gear oils as preferred: Redline 75W,
Valvoline GL5 80/90W, Kendall 75W. And in bold he says Under No
Circumstances Use Synthetic Oils. After 5 years, it can't hurt to change it.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of richard olson
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 11:51 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] HVDA and antifreeze - two questions

Antifreeze -
I put "Prestone" in 1997 (I got my 1972 TR6 in 1996).
In 2000 I fixed my heater and put new antifreeze too.
Now its 2008!  Is this a good time to put new antifreeze in?
Is "Peak" use?  Went do I need to put new antifreeze in?
2 years? 5 years?..... each year?
 
Gear oil -
I got my HVDA in 2003. I used "Pennzoil"(?) for my gear oil, GL-4, 75W, no
synthetic (I can't remember?).
When do I change my Toyota gear oil?
Should I use a synthetic (Redline MTL)?
 
Rick Olson, '72 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
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3:21 PM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jun 20 10:46:16 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 09:46:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] HVDA and antifreeze - two questions
In-Reply-To: <28880.9340.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <28880.9340.qm@web37503.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC04033F32@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Richard:

	The "anti-freeze" part of the coolant lasts forever. It is the
"anti-corrosion" part of anti freeze that wears out. A good change
interval is 2 years, which insures that your water pump doesn't rot.
This holds true no  matter how often you drive the car.
	HOWEVER - I am a lazy old fart, so I prefer another strategy -
which you are on your own if you wish to try...
	If the anti-freeze is free from rust, and is a nice clear green
color (indicating that rusty crap has not yet started to circulate in
the coolant) then I add a bottle of corrosion inhibitor every two years.
This replaces the worn out inhibitors at a fraction of the cost, and I
do not need to dispose of the toxic ethylene glycol.
	You can get a half pint of corrosion inhibitor at the auto parts
store for a couple of bucks. The inhibitors in anti freeze are
"sacrificial" meaning that they are consumed by the electro chemical
process that prevents corrosion. When they are totally consumed,
corrosion starts even though the freezing properties of the coolant are
preserved indefinitely. This is why they recommend a bi annual
replacement schedule - that and to insure that dirt gets flushed from
the radiator.
	If you are lazy, cheap, and grumpy like me, then try just adding
the inhibitors back in the mix as long as the coolant is otherwise in
good shape.

	Cheers,

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of richard olson
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 8:51 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] HVDA and antifreeze - two questions

Antifreeze -
I put "Prestone" in 1997 (I got my 1972 TR6 in 1996).
In 2000 I fixed my heater and put new antifreeze too.
Now its 2008!  Is this a good time to put new antifreeze in?
Is "Peak" use?  Went do I need to put new antifreeze in?
2 years? 5 years?..... each year?

<snip>

Rick Olson, '72 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jun 20 11:00:39 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 10:00:39 -0700
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806191518320.10283@isis.mit.edu>
References: <BAY101-DAV3E08FD6F883F97FDCB2AFF4AA0@phx.gbl>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806191518320.10283@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC04033F61@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Dick, Robert:

	The valve lash setting specified by the cam manufacturer is
specified with a specific rocker ratio in mind. The "valve lash" setting
is in actuality a "cam lash" spec. For solid lifter cams you must allow
for thermal expansion of the valve train in order to insure that valve
will fully close under all conditions. This means you must allow some
gap in the valve train - this is why you must set the lash.
	The exact sizing of the lash depends on the CAM, not the valves
or rockers. This is because there is a built in ramp on the cam lobe
designed to gently take up the lash before accelerating the valve off of
its seat. The amount of lash is therefore specified to correctly
accommodate the needs of the CAM LOBE. When the manufacturer specifies
the lash AT THE VALVE, he DIVIDES that number by the ROCKER RATIO to
determine the lash at the cam lobe. Ergo, if you change the rocker
ratio, you must change the lash setting AT THE VALVE to insure that the
lash setting AT THE LOBE remains correct.
	Example: Lash is specified at 0.015" for a 1.25 rocker. I
install 1.50 rockers, so the new lash setting is 1.5/1.25 x 0.015, or
roughly 0.019". If I fail to increase my lash, not only do I risk
damaging the valves because they will not close fully when hot, I
effectively increase the duration of the cam by a few degrees, making
the idle lumpier.

	Cheers,

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Lang
Sent: Thursday, June 19, 2008 12:22 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics

On Thu, 19 Jun 2008, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Vance---Why would "higher ratio rockers" require more valve lash?

I'm not Vance - he can speak for himself. But the dudes that make higher

ratio roller rockers warn you to "adjust" your valve lash based on the
rocker-arm ratio. I think it has to do with reducing the shock on the
cam
and lifter due to the larger "ramp" load - with a high-ratio rocker, the

cam is actually lifting more (or technically there is more inertial
load).

Undoubtedly, someone will find error with my reply, but the Goodparts
cam
sheets warn you to adjust base on which rocker setup you have. I am 100%

certain of that as I just read one on Sunday.

> Dick

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Jun 20 13:43:19 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 19:43:19 GMT
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV1089C6C29B0031B79EB14EF4A50@phx.gbl>

Vance wrtes:

 From: Navarrette, Vance

     Dick, Robert:

     The valve lash setting specified by the cam manufacturer is
specified with a specific rocker ratio in mind. The "valve lash" setting
is in actualit
   The exact sizing of the lash depends on the CAM, not the valves
or rockers.

This is because there is a built in ramp on the cam lobe
designed to gently take up the lash before accelerating the valve off of
its seat. The amount of lash is therefore specified to correctly
accommodate the needs of the CAM LOBE. When the manufacturer specifies
the lash AT THE VALVE, he DIVIDES that number by the ROCKER RATIO to
determine the lash at the cam lobe. Ergo, if you change the rocker
ratio, you must change the lash setting AT THE VALVE to insure that the
lash setting AT THE LOBE remains correct....

Vance---I agree that the lash should be set to the cam grinders specs, for
most of the reasons you said. I don't recall a cam grinder asking what my
rocker ratio was before a cam was made and delivered to me. (Maybe they looked
it up)?
That's why I questioned the need to change the lash because of the rr.

Dick

On Thu, 19 Jun 2008, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:

> Vance---Why would "higher ratio rockers" require more lash?

Dick

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Jun 20 15:36:12 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 17:36:12 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV1089C6C29B0031B79EB14EF4A50@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV1089C6C29B0031B79EB14EF4A50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806201734240.13202@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I talked to a couple of cam grinders a while back and they asked me:

1. what are you using it for?
2. what rpms are you looking for?
3. what rocker arms you using?
4. what sort of power do you want?
5. compression ratio?

The ones I talked to all asked about the rocker ratio.

Just providing a data point.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Fri Jun 20 18:52:09 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 00:52:09 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Cams and rockers, part 4
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV8A286AF379C51EFF1C2F3F4A40@phx.gbl>

That's good to know, Bob. But just to be sure nothing was forgotten since this cam was installed (about five years ago), I went out to look at the data sheet provided by the Isky Cam Co. No where on this sheet did it ask or provide further instructions as to the rockers used. TR6? Check. Z-19 cam? Check. It gave the info as to what crank degree the follower was to move, and of course the lash for valve settings. 

Apparantly the lash doesn't change much on my engine, whether hot or cold. There's no discernable difference in the (slight) lope at either extreme. Then again, I have the stock ratio, so....Ted?

Dick 


-----Original Message-----
From: Robert Lang
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 2:36 PM
To: Sally or Dick Taylor
Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics

Hi,

I talked to a couple of cam grinders a while back and they asked me:

1. what are you using it for?
2. what rpms are you looking for?
3. what rocker arms you using?
4. what sort of power do you want?
5. compression ratio?

The ones I talked to all asked about the rocker ratio.

Just providing a data point.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Jun 20 19:24:41 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 20 Jun 2008 18:24:41 -0700
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV1089C6C29B0031B79EB14EF4A50@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV1089C6C29B0031B79EB14EF4A50@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC04034577@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Dick:

	I presume they don't ask because they assume your RR is stock.
Course if your motor uses hydraulic tappets, then this does not apply.
But for the TR6 with its solid lifter cam, you would need to adjust the
lash setting if the RR changes from stock.
	I suppose someone could point to a cam where there is enough
margin that it doesn't matter, but the rule is correct; changing the RR
means adjusting the lash spec.
	Ask me how I know.....

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor
Sent: Friday, June 20, 2008 12:43 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics

Vance wrtes:

 From: Navarrette, Vance

     Dick, Robert:

     The valve lash setting specified by the cam manufacturer is
specified with a specific rocker ratio in mind. The "valve lash" setting
is in actualit
   The exact sizing of the lash depends on the CAM, not the valves
or rockers.

This is because there is a built in ramp on the cam lobe
designed to gently take up the lash before accelerating the valve off of
its seat. The amount of lash is therefore specified to correctly
accommodate the needs of the CAM LOBE. When the manufacturer specifies
the lash AT THE VALVE, he DIVIDES that number by the ROCKER RATIO to
determine the lash at the cam lobe. Ergo, if you change the rocker
ratio, you must change the lash setting AT THE VALVE to insure that the
lash setting AT THE LOBE remains correct....

Vance---I agree that the lash should be set to the cam grinders specs,
for
most of the reasons you said. I don't recall a cam grinder asking what
my
rocker ratio was before a cam was made and delivered to me. (Maybe they
looked
it up)?
That's why I questioned the need to change the lash because of the rr.

Dick

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 21 12:46:56 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 11:46:56 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Interior Sound Insulation
In-Reply-To: <20080617045143.2E5BE18766D@autox.team.net>
References: <5013343.3120111213626731302.JavaMail.root@vms227.mailsrvcs.net>
	<20080617045143.2E5BE18766D@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0806211146j3f3ec186w5d3c8a8f26e7ab3a@mail.gmail.com>

I used Damplifer Pro and could not be happier. I had someone who has driven
a lot of different Triumphs drive my TR6 he could not believe how solid the
car sounded and felt. As a side benefit the heat shield properties has made
the foot well a lot cooler out here in the Phoenix area as I drive my TR6
during the summer as well and it's current over 100. Installation was like
putting in thick wallpaper. I have a few pictures of the installation at
http://www.triumphowners.com/798 and also on the Second Skin car owner site:
http://www.secondskinaudio.com/rides-user.php?userride=80 (they don't have
a Triumph group). I had read the same testing that Dave Friedlander refers
to in an earlier reply and figured I'd spend a little more to get something
very good because I only planned on doing this once. I had enough in the box
to put a second layer on the floor boards.

 Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From marty.tr6 at gmail.com  Sat Jun 21 12:59:40 2008
From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 11:59:40 -0700
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Broken Shock Stem
Message-ID: <df0e1f1e0806211159s200abc16j11742efffea17bfb@mail.gmail.com>

I have managed to break off the top of the stem on my passenger side front
shock of my 74 TR6. I got the locking nut off and have the bottom nut just
past where the locking nut was when the top on the stem broke off flush with
the bolt. So now the top portion of the shock just spins when turn the nut.
The driver side is done. I kept spraying Kroil as I progressed hoping to
help the progress of removing the bolt but to no avail. I have loosened the
4 lower nuts and they were easier than the top bolts. Is my only solution to
cut the top of the shock off below the bolt?

Marty Clark
Gilbert, AZ
1974 TR6 CF17352U
http://www.triumphowners.com/798

From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com  Sat Jun 21 14:01:30 2008
From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 16:01:30 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is out of the office.
Message-ID: <OF6C02419F.9C4BD566-ON8525746F.006E0060-8525746F.006E0060@CDCLN05.LVS.DUPONT.COM>

I will be out of the office starting  06/21/2008 and will not return until
07/07/2008.

I will have very limited availability during this time.  You may leave me a
voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond when I'm able.
Orders or order inquiries may be sent to:
MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact customer service at
800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1.

For immediate sales assistance, contact Brian Veeder at 800-284-3382
Extension 5579.

Regards, Robert Waldrop


This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains
information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under
applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby
formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail,
in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by
return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly
and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does
not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance
of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the
use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for
transfers of data to third parties.

Francais Deutsch Italiano  Espanol  Portugues  Japanese  Chinese  Korean

           http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jun 21 19:49:29 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 01:49:29 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Wanted - dizzy/oil pump drive and a warning about new oil
 pumps
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1681A6@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I bet many of you knew this already but just in case anyone is tempted to do
what I did and take a new oil pump out of the box and bolt it to the engine -
STOP !.

Just over a week ago I finished the engine rebuild that I started in December.
One of the last parts I installed was a new oil pump which came from one of
the big two. Started up the engine, no oil pressure. To cut a long story
short, after a near total engine strip down we found that the oil pumped had
jammed with a TINY piece of aluminum. It got between the inner vanes and the
outer cylinder and because there is just a few thou clearance it was enough to
jam the pump solid. We had to take a BFH to separate the pump parts. On closer
examination I found that the area of the casting that had been machined to
make an oval hole to create a channel in the pump body was left very rough
with several bits of aluminum hanging on by a thread. It was one of these that
the pump apparently ate and then jammed. So the moral here is before
installing a new pump take it apart, carefully inspect it and remove any loose
material that is left over from the machining.

The collateral damage to the pump jamming is that my dizzy drive gear is
beyond repair :-( and I need a replacement. This part is NLS so if anyone has
a spare that they are willing to part with for suitable compensation I would
love to hear from you.

Stan

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Sat Jun 21 21:19:07 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Sat, 21 Jun 2008 23:19:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Wanted - dizzy/oil pump drive and a warning about new
 oil pumps
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1681A6@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1681A6@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF4D93CBB6@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>

What kind of oil pump are you using?  All the pumps I've seen on the TRs are
outer cylinder with the inner "lobed" rotor piece that is driven by the
distributer/shaft/cam.  It is not going to be "jammed."  Anything big enough
to jam it will break the "tongue" on the shaft, or crack the whole body.  Not
likely.  I've seen them with a washer having been sucked into the intake (the
screen had dropped off the intake) and all it did was wear a groove on the end
of the rotor and outer cylinder.

Also, you mention aluminum, and a "vane" construction.  Are you using some
kind of after-market design?
________________________________________
From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net
[6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Foster, Stan [stan.foster at hp.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 9:49 PM
To: 6 Pack
Subject: [6pack] Wanted - dizzy/oil pump drive and a warning about new oil
pumps

I bet many of you knew this already but just in case anyone is tempted to do
what I did and take a new oil pump out of the box and bolt it to the engine -
STOP !.

Just over a week ago I finished the engine rebuild that I started in
December.
One of the last parts I installed was a new oil pump which came from one of
the big two. Started up the engine, no oil pressure. To cut a long story
short, after a near total engine strip down we found that the oil pumped had
jammed with a TINY piece of aluminum. It got between the inner vanes and the
outer cylinder and because there is just a few thou clearance it was enough
to
jam the pump solid. We had to take a BFH to separate the pump parts. On
closer
examination I found that the area of the casting that had been machined to
make an oval hole to create a channel in the pump body was left very rough
with several bits of aluminum hanging on by a thread. It was one of these
that
the pump apparently ate and then jammed. So the moral here is before
installing a new pump take it apart, carefully inspect it and remove any
loose
material that is left over from the machining.

The collateral damage to the pump jamming is that my dizzy drive gear is
beyond repair :-( and I need a replacement. This part is NLS so if anyone has
a spare that they are willing to part with for suitable compensation I would
love to hear from you.

Stan
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jun 21 21:28:52 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 03:28:52 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Wanted - dizzy/oil pump drive and a warning about new
 oil pumps
In-Reply-To: <9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF4D93CBB6@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1681A6@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<9CCC61DD86D67049B241705B6F03890BFF4D93CBB6@HSCSEMAIL41.hscs.virginia.edu>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1681AF@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

This was a standard TR6 oil pump. The inner lobed part was stuck solid due to
a fragment of aluminum. I'm not 100% sure if the fragment was between the
lobes and the cylinder or between the cylinder and the case but the net result
was a totally wedged shaft. The stress on the dizzy drive gear sheared the pin
and fractured the gear. With the fragment removed (and the top of the shaft
reground after the hammering) the pump turns normally.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: Ruffner, James A *HS [mailto:JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu]
Sent: Saturday, June 21, 2008 11:19 PM
To: Foster, Stan; 6 Pack
Subject: RE: [6pack] Wanted - dizzy/oil pump drive and a warning about new oil
pumps

What kind of oil pump are you using?  All the pumps I've seen on the TRs are
outer cylinder with the inner "lobed" rotor piece that is driven by the
distributer/shaft/cam.  It is not going to be "jammed."  Anything big enough
to jam it will break the "tongue" on the shaft, or crack the whole body.  Not
likely.  I've seen them with a washer having been sucked into the intake (the
screen had dropped off the intake) and all it did was wear a groove on the end
of the rotor and outer cylinder.

Also, you mention aluminum, and a "vane" construction.  Are you using some
kind of after-market design?

From bamxn at triad.rr.com  Sun Jun 22 15:59:24 2008
From: bamxn at triad.rr.com (Bruce Moxon)
Date: Sun, 22 Jun 2008 17:59:24 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Repro Fuel Pumps
Message-ID: <005801c8d4b3$3c159120$6501a8c0@bruce5aa5d9409>

I just had a repro fuel pump (w/ priming lever)  fail  in less than 2 years. I
purchased it through LBCC (Moss). Upon dismantling to see what the problem
was, the inlet valve had come loose and had carved out the interior of the
pump leaving plenty of metal filings. Also, the plastic screen filter was not
fitted correctly when assembled and was all bent out of shape so had probably
not been doing much filtering.

I am trying to determine if this is common to these pumps or did I just get a
bad one. Both Moss and TRF sell these type of pumps. TRF's pump costs
substantially more and says it is made in Italy. I did not find any markings
on the Moss pump identifying country of origin.

Has anyone had any experience with either of these fuel pumps?

From ambritts at bellsouth.net  Mon Jun 23 18:58:51 2008
From: ambritts at bellsouth.net (Alex)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 20:58:51 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Chrome facilities
Message-ID: <040901c8d595$787499d0$6401a8c0@STATION6>

Hi All,
Can anyone identify a good chrome shop in the Spokane, WA area.
Thanks,
Alex Manzo
59 TR3A
72 TR6

From davidaschenck at comcast.net  Mon Jun 23 19:23:31 2008
From: davidaschenck at comcast.net (David A. Schenck)
Date: Mon, 23 Jun 2008 21:23:31 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR250 Head Problem?
Message-ID: <20080624012422.21BD4187642@autox.team.net>

I removed my carbs and intake tonight to replace them with a whole new
freshly rebuilt and polished setup.  Once I got everything removed from the
engine I thought I would shine a light in the intake to check on everything.
The first cylinder intake valve appears to be twice as large in diameter as
all of the others.  Is it possible that the valve guide has unseated?  I had
no indication of any problems with the motor to indicate this.  Is this a
simple fix - pop the head off and pop the guide back in place and motor on?
Or am I in big trouble?  I have uploaded a picture -
www.triumphowners.com/1302

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Dave Schenck

'68 TR250

Towson, MD

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Jun 24 00:13:13 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 06:13:13 GMT
Subject: [6pack] TR250 Head Problem?
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV94B68A2DD72D0C78B5F07F4A10@phx.gbl>

David---The valve guides should all be the same diameter, so having it "come up" wouldn't cause a change in its appearance. You can remove the valve cover and look between the springs to confirm this movement. Any chance someone made a special valve guide because of some emergency, and ignored the std. OD?

Could you be looking at an encrusted head bolt?

Dick 


-----Original Message-----
From: David A. Schenck
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 6:23 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR250 Head Problem?

I removed my carbs and intake tonight to replace them with a whole new
freshly rebuilt and polished setup.  Once I got everything removed from the
engine I thought I would shine a light in the intake to check on everything.
The first cylinder intake valve appears to be twice as large in diameter as
all of the others.  Is it possible that the valve guide has unseated?  I had
no indication of any problems with the motor to indicate this.  Is this a
simple fix - pop the head off and pop the guide back in place and motor on?
Or am I in big trouble?  I have uploaded a picture -
www.triumphowners.com/1302

 

Any thoughts would be appreciated.

 

Dave Schenck

'68 TR250

Towson, MD
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Jun 24 10:21:14 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 09:21:14 -0700
Subject: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics
In-Reply-To: <BAY101-DAV1150E4D7FCCF9CCFC8CB5AF4A10@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY101-DAV1150E4D7FCCF9CCFC8CB5AF4A10@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0405DEEA@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Au Contraire, mon ami

	Increasing the rr does indeed increase the overlap. While the
starting/stopping point remains the same, the AREA UNDER THE CURVE
increases by virtue of the faster rates for the valves. Think of it this
way: draw an equilateral triangle. The base defines the LENGTH of the
overlap period, but the area inside the triangle is the SIZE of the
overlap. Now double the height of the triangle without widening the
base. The area inside DOUBLED, but the base stayed the same size.
	This is how rr affects overlap. The length of the overlap period
stays the same, but the distance the valves are open during the overlap
period is greater. Thus a rougher idle.

	Vance


    Vance Navarrette
    Cogito Ergo Zoom
    I think, therefore I go fast

-----Original Message-----
From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net]
Sent: Monday, June 23, 2008 10:38 PM
To: Navarrette, Vance
Subject: RE: [6pack] GP2 cam idle characteristics


    Interesting. The lope you experienced sounds like something that
would be the result of a cam with too much overlap, but installing the
higher rrs doesn't really change WHEN the cam comes on or off, or
increase the o'lap. It should only increase the lift at the valves.
Increasing lash would smooth out the idle, but if you went more than
what the cam mgf. called for, then there's still a riddle here. I assume
that "heat" had not as yet come into the picture?  So far, I'm getting
mixed results from others who are in the "business". More coming, as I
wade thru this!  I really enjoy these types of discussions!

DT


-----Original Message-----

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Tue Jun 24 16:36:06 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Tue, 24 Jun 2008 18:36:06 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Vehicle Emissions Info Sticker
Message-ID: <000001c8d64a$b2ae4af0$6601a8c0@Robert>

Going through some old papers I found a British Leyland Vehicle Emission
Control Information Sticker. It states it is for 1974 TR6's. If I remember
correctly it goes on the inner wheel well. How about it being free to the
first reply!

All I ask is that this Sunday, you pray for every service member in our
armed services, that they can come home to their loved ones, alive.

 

Thanks.

From nosto53 at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 25 09:49:45 2008
From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 08:49:45 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] My ride is too harsh.
Message-ID: <683295.33193.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have some new parts TRF springs (hi-perf(?), no numbers for height,
coils or stiffness), Konis fronts, KYB rear, Goodparts T/A bracket and
nytrons.
First question: Do I need the alum spacers in the springs?  I have stock
rubbers.
 
My tires had spoke wheels and old P4000 205X70.
Went I drive my '72 TR6 car it was bad.  I hit bumping all over.
I  put the Koni on "softer" but no didn't change.
 
So I went to a alignment "expert" (with the laser tester). 
He was done (3hr/$120!), so I went with a drive. 
Well......The car is still too harsh to drive.
 
I got the test report and 1 toe and 2(L and R,rears) cambers are in 'red'
numbers.
When it this is a 'safety' or ???
 
Is there sometime is do this the right was?
Why can't I do this right?
 
Thank you,
Rick Olson, '72 TR6

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Jun 25 10:05:00 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 16:05:00 +0000
Subject: [6pack] My ride is too harsh.
In-Reply-To: <683295.33193.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <683295.33193.qm@web37507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1E7A43@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Hi Rick, whenever you move away from rubber to synthetic or from standard to
competition ratings,  things tend to get stiffer and the ride gets more harsh
and there might be a bit more of the vibration and bumps transmitted through
to the cockpit. I think most of us accept that as part of the trade-off
between performance and comfort, comfort and longevity of the bushes etc. I
didn't personally notice a big change in comfort/noise when I went through
this transition and I have a very similar setup to you plus alu steering
mounts.

Did they tell you what the rear camber was measuring at or did they just mark
it red ?. You should be around 0 to 1 degree negative and they should be the
same. They can co a bit more negative without any safety issue but they should
be the same.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard
olson
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 11:50 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] My ride is too harsh.

I have some new parts TRF springs (hi-perf(?), no numbers for height,
coils or stiffness), Konis fronts, KYB rear, Goodparts T/A bracket and
nytrons.
First question: Do I need the alum spacers in the springs?  I have stock
rubbers.

My tires had spoke wheels and old P4000 205X70.
Went I drive my '72 TR6 car it was bad.  I hit bumping all over.
I  put the Koni on "softer" but no didn't change.

So I went to a alignment "expert" (with the laser tester).
He was done (3hr/$120!), so I went with a drive.
Well......The car is still too harsh to drive.

I got the test report and 1 toe and 2(L and R,rears) cambers are in 'red'
numbers.
When it this is a 'safety' or ???

Is there sometime is do this the right was?
Why can't I do this right?

Thank you,
Rick Olson, '72 TR6
_______________________________________________

From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 25 13:04:11 2008
From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 12:04:11 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ride too harsh
Message-ID: <298322.36888.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I had a similar problem which was corrected by going back to stock springs.
 
Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6

From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu  Wed Jun 25 13:10:07 2008
From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 13:10:07 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Ride too harsh
Message-ID: <48648BC1@webmail.colostate.edu>

There was a thread recently, on the 6-Pack forum I believe, about the same 
thing. He found that when he replaced his old tires, the ride changed 
dramatically and was much more comfortable.

How old are the tires? Not how many miles (that doesn't matter).

Shawn


>===== Original Message From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com =====
>I had a similar problem which was corrected by going back to stock springs.
>
>Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as sloseke at holly.colostate.edu

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Jun 25 13:11:07 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 19:11:07 GMT
Subject: [6pack] My ride is too harsh.
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV128C885DB59F174D24D72FF4A00@phx.gbl>

Rick---To answer your first question: you shouldn't need added spacers unless your camber is too far negative. (Rear wheels lean in too much at the top) The rubber ones you have should otherwise be OK. Adding spacers will also raise the car height, so this has to be considered as well.

TRF (and others) sells springs that are supposed to be 20% stiffer than stock. I installed these about 20 years ago, and find them to be a bit firm, but not objectionably so. I have the same shock combo as you. The car does "crash" over some type of road bumps with this setup. Much less so, when the car is carrying a load.

I don't know what the code is showing for your wheel camber, or if it means the car is not safe to drive. It could just mean that it is out of spec, according to the book on the TR. Lots of owners like more negative camber, for various reasons. This reading should have little to do with the harshness of your ride. If your tire air pressure readings are high, you could try lowering them a little. I wouldn't get below 20lb. front or 24 rear psi, tho.

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: richard olson
Sent: Wednesday, June 25, 2008 8:49 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] My ride is too harsh.

I have some new parts TRF springs (hi-perf(?), no numbers for height,
coils or stiffness), Konis fronts, KYB rear, Goodparts T/A bracket and
nytrons.
First question: Do I need the alum spacers in the springs?  I have stock
rubbers.
 
My tires had spoke wheels and old P4000 205X70.
Went I drive my '72 TR6 car it was bad.  I hit bumping all over.
I  put the Koni on "softer" but no didn't change.
 
So I went to a alignment "expert" (with the laser tester). 
He was done (3hr/$120!), so I went with a drive. 
Well......The car is still too harsh to drive.
 
I got the test report and 1 toe and 2(L and R,rears) cambers are in 'red'
numbers.
When it this is a 'safety' or ???
 
Is there sometime is do this the right was?
Why can't I do this right?
 
Thank you,
Rick Olson, '72 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From nosto53 at yahoo.com  Wed Jun 25 20:49:48 2008
From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 19:49:48 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ohhhh.... tire pressure!
Message-ID: <665299.11762.qm@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

6packs -
 
I will try to get my tire pressure in a good thing.  I used the psi at
20 front/24 rear for years.
 
Last 2 months,  I went my psi at 26 front/30 rear.
Not a get thing.  Going back to 20/24!
 
Thanks,
Rick Olson '72 TR6

From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca  Wed Jun 25 22:55:57 2008
From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms)
Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion?
Message-ID: <731490.3531.qm@web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>

The original ZS choke cables seem too short for the HS6s I now have on my
73.  What have other foks done?
Would a set of choke cables from a TR7 work?  
Didn't some TR7s use SUs?   
The English ebayer said my SUs were off a Triumph
2000, if memory serves, but I don't really know.    Carb ID #s were quite
different. Rebuilt the carbs anyways.  I didn't pay that much for them.  They
didn't come with choke cables.   
Thank you,
Bruce Simms
__________________________________________________________________
Looking for
the perfect gift? Give the gift of Flickr! 

http://www.flickr.com/gift/

From richards at hollywoodcenter.com  Thu Jun 26 12:26:43 2008
From: richards at hollywoodcenter.com (Richard Schnyder)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 11:26:43 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Harsh Ride
Message-ID: <004a01c8d7ba$2f67f490$310211ac@sms>

Change out the KYB'S for Konis in the rear.

I have the GoodParts lowered springs, Blindmoose rear tube shock kit. I tired
it with the KYB's, way to harsh, and not right for better handling.  I also
have the same tires as you.
So I changed out the KYBs to Koni's, with the Koni's set about 2/3 up from
full soft, and I have Konis in the front also.  Now the ride and handling
works.



Richard Schnyder
Hollywood Center Studios
323 860 0000

From osternd at copper.net  Thu Jun 26 13:02:03 2008
From: osternd at copper.net (osternd at copper.net)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 12:02:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion
Message-ID: <20080626120203.BD5FFA06@resin09.mta.everyone.net>

   I used a TR4 single choke cable on the rear carb as my SUs had linkage
   connecting the chokes together.

   Be careful with those carbs.  The rear float bowl is different (offset
   higher?) for the 2000 as the motor is canted.  The rear bowl should be
   the same as the front on the TR6 or you won't be able to get the level
   and mixture correct -

   Dale O

   '76 TR6

   Message: 5
   Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
   From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
   Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion?
   To: 6pack at autox.team.net
   Message-ID: <731490.3531.qm at web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
   Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
   The original ZS choke cables seem too short for the HS6s I now have on
   my
   73.  What have other foks done?
   Would a set of choke cables from a TR7 work?
   Didn't some TR7s use SUs?
   The English ebayer said my SUs were off a Triumph
   2000, if memory serves, but I don't really know.    Carb ID #s were
   quite
   different.  Rebuilt  the  carbs  anyways.   I didn't pay that much for
   them.
   They
   didn't come with choke cables.
   Thank you,
   Bruce Simms

From janah at att.net  Thu Jun 26 13:48:26 2008
From: janah at att.net (janah at att.net)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 19:48:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Date Coding
Message-ID: <062620081948.18412.4863F28A0006DBAE000047EC22193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>

Did Triumph (or their contract foundries) date code their engine and head castings?  If so, how are these read?

Thanks,
John Cyg.

From Jimandruthhome at aol.com  Thu Jun 26 14:30:57 2008
From: Jimandruthhome at aol.com (Jimandruthhome at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:30:57 EDT
Subject: [6pack] SU choke linkage
Message-ID: <d1f.29b78411.35955681@aol.com>

Hi Bruce,
I have had SU's on my '71 for many years.  They were off a Volvo if  memory 
serves.  The chokes were linked with a short rod and two fittings,  one at each 
end, that provided little arms to engage the choke levers on the  carbs.  I 
later installed a set for a friend.  His carbs did not  have the choke linkage, 
but it was fairly easy to make one up.
 
With the chokes linked, you only need to run one cable to the rear  choke.  
If you use the stock cable you can coil the other cable up  (loosely) and leave 
under the dash and have a spare ready to go.
 
If you think it would be useful to you, I can send a picture of my setup  
with "official" SU linkage.  Unfortunately my friend moved away and so I  can't 
provide a picture of the linkage I made for him.
 
Jim Knight




**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Thu Jun 26 14:35:58 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:35:58 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion
References: <20080626120203.BD5FFA06@resin09.mta.everyone.net>
Message-ID: <012501c8d7cc$3dd81250$0601a8c0@D9Z8J571>

   When I did my SU conversion on my 75 TR6 my original front Cable was able 
to link up fine
with the front Choke (enrichment Lever). I left the rear cable to perch 
itself in front of the rear Carb
to look like it was actually doing something.

   While the subject of fuel Bowls was brought up in the context of this 
conversion, there seems to be some
controversy as to the necessity of changing them to the AUD2140 (Spitfire) 
bowl when doing them. Other than
just getting them to sit upright, I've heard contrary opinions from 2 
different SU guru's. My AUC1310 Bowls,
as used on TR4A's and Volvo's were just swapped from one end to the other to 
get them vertical and seem to run
fine with the BAE needles and K&N Filters. The other school of thought is 
that they're both sitting too high and can alter
mixture over the range of the Metering Needles travel. Anyone else heard 
anything on the subject. I'm rebuilding a set now
with the Spit Bowls, but I don't understand why it's necessary.
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
58 TR3
64 TR4
75 TR6 Daily Driver
Lola T598

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <osternd at copper.net>
To: <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 3:02 PM
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion


>   I used a TR4 single choke cable on the rear carb as my SUs had linkage
>   connecting the chokes together.
>
>   Be careful with those carbs.  The rear float bowl is different (offset
>   higher?) for the 2000 as the motor is canted.  The rear bowl should be
>   the same as the front on the TR6 or you won't be able to get the level
>   and mixture correct -
>
>   Dale O
>
>   '76 TR6
>
>   Message: 5
>   Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
>   From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
>   Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion?
>   To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>   Message-ID: <731490.3531.qm at web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
>   Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>   The original ZS choke cables seem too short for the HS6s I now have on
>   my
>   73.  What have other foks done?
>   Would a set of choke cables from a TR7 work?
>   Didn't some TR7s use SUs?
>   The English ebayer said my SUs were off a Triumph
>   2000, if memory serves, but I don't really know.    Carb ID #s were
>   quite
>   different.  Rebuilt  the  carbs  anyways. 

From 75teer6 at gmail.com  Thu Jun 26 16:04:52 2008
From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:04:52 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Harsh Ride
In-Reply-To: <004a01c8d7ba$2f67f490$310211ac@sms>
References: <004a01c8d7ba$2f67f490$310211ac@sms>
Message-ID: <83dfea6b0806261504k22470a44qe347dff8ce09514e@mail.gmail.com>

Richard,

I also have the KYB shocks at the back and find them a bit stiff.

Do you have the Model and/or part # of the KYB that you removed,
and the Model and/or part # of the Koni that you installed?

Thank you,

Henri
75 TR 6,
71 MGB GT

On Thu, Jun 26, 2008 at 12:26 PM, Richard Schnyder
<richards at hollywoodcenter.com> wrote:
> Change out the KYB'S for Konis in the rear.
>
> I have the GoodParts lowered springs, Blindmoose rear tube shock kit. I tired
> it with the KYB's, way to harsh, and not right for better handling.  I also
> have the same tires as you.
> So I changed out the KYBs to Koni's, with the Koni's set about 2/3 up from
> full soft, and I have Konis in the front also.  Now the ride and handling
> works.
>
>
>
> Richard Schnyder
> Hollywood Center Studios
> 323 860 0000
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com

From tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org  Thu Jun 26 16:26:03 2008
From: tgeiger at ShoalsBritishCars.org (Terry Geiger)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 17:26:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion
In-Reply-To: <20080626120203.BD5FFA06@resin09.mta.everyone.net>
References: <20080626120203.BD5FFA06@resin09.mta.everyone.net>
Message-ID: <F5B51F890B0A4CB1A315809842B204C1@aitinc.local>

Here are some pictures of my SU HS6 conversion.  The carbs are ex-Volvo with 
spitfire fuel bowls fitted.  I used an MGB choke cable; the single TR4 cable 
should work fine as well.  Joe Curto supplied the linkages and insisted that 
the spitfire fuel bowls were needed.

http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/geigersgarage/index.html

Terry Geiger
59 MGA Roadster~59 MGA Coupe~74 Triumph TR6~70 MGBGT~63 Triumph Herald~84 
Mercedes 300D
www.ShoalsBritishCars.org

>   Message: 5
>   Date: Wed, 25 Jun 2008 21:55:57 -0700 (PDT)
>   From: Bruce Simms <brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca>
>   Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion?
>   To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>   Message-ID: <731490.3531.qm at web65604.mail.ac4.yahoo.com>
>   Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii"
>   The original ZS choke cables seem too short for the HS6s I now have on
>   my
>   73.  What have other foks done?
>   Would a set of choke cables from a TR7 work?
>   Didn't some TR7s use SUs?
>   The English ebayer said my SUs were off a Triumph
>   2000, if memory serves, but I don't really know.    Carb ID #s were
>   quite
>   different.  Rebuilt  the  carbs  anyways.   I didn't pay that much for
>   them.
>   They
>   didn't come with choke cables.
>   Thank you,
>   Bruce Simms

From Btp44 at aol.com  Thu Jun 26 21:18:12 2008
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 23:18:12 EDT
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion?
Message-ID: <cfc.3870df7e.3595b5f4@aol.com>

I have SUs from a Volvo and have noticed that with the float adjusted to the 
low end of the spec that the fuel level is right at the top of the jet. Is 
this the reason that Joe Curto recommends using "shorter" float bowls? How about 
just adjusting the float level until the gas is maybe 1/16" below the top of 
the jet?
Berry Price. 



**************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for 
fuel-efficient used cars.      (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)

From wayne at motorcarriage.com  Thu Jun 26 22:21:13 2008
From: wayne at motorcarriage.com (Wayne Lee)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 00:21:13 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion?
References: <cfc.3870df7e.3595b5f4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <002701c8d80d$ae7978f0$2f01a8c0@D794W231>

 This is exactly how mine are adjusted and they work fine. I think it's 
about .25" difference in float adjustment. I don't understand what 
difference it makes. I've yet to see it explained anywhere successfully.  I 
don't think the Carbs care about some extra headspace in the Bowls if the 
same level is maintained relative to the jet.
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
58 TR3
64 TR4
75 TR6 Daily Driver with SU's +/24 mpg average
Lola T598

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <Btp44 at aol.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, June 26, 2008 11:18 PM
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion?


>I have SUs from a Volvo and have noticed that with the float adjusted to 
>the
> low end of the spec that the fuel level is right at the top of the jet. Is
> this the reason that Joe Curto recommends using "shorter" float bowls? How 
> about
> just adjusting the float level until the gas is maybe 1/16" below the top 
> of
> the jet?
> Berry Price.
>
>
>
> **************Gas prices getting you down? Search AOL Autos for
> fuel-efficient used cars. 
> (http://autos.aol.com/used?ncid=aolaut00050000000007)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wayne at motorcarriage.com 

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Fri Jun 27 09:01:22 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:01:22 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] "A" OD elect question
Message-ID: <1648723.1214578882175.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>

Put in an entire new wiring  harness.  But, I have looked in all my 
sources, and I can not for the life of me find out where the two OD (A 
type) power wires plug in.  The ones that terminate at the fuse box-  
one white, one brown.  Which fuses do these get attached to?  Which two 
circuits?

Thanks for the collective knowledge.

Kevin

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Fri Jun 27 09:29:52 2008
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 11:29:52 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Unidentified SU
Message-ID: <49f668fe0806270829g311ba3e7pffdfbfa0f64ff4d9@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone know about an SU carb marked AUC6020, with a 1 3/8 inch throat?
  Someone is offering me two of them with linkage.   I'm not exactly
sure what I'm looking at, but they appear to be the integrated float
bowl type...   What did they come from, and how much are they worth is
what I'm looking for?

John North

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Fri Jun 27 10:06:31 2008
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:06:31 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Petrol Injection
Message-ID: <807086.9781.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have a 76 TR6 and have converted the ignition to EDIS with GREAT results. It
is based upon the Megajolt computer.

 I also have a set of TR5 throttle bodies for that mechanical system.  Has
anyone built an injection system based upon the Megajolt,  My idea is to use
21 pound injectors and some type of controller to produce sequential 
injection.  Any input would be greatly appreciated.

John   76 TR6  79 TR7  81 TR8  Lotus 7

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Jun 27 10:09:21 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 16:09:21 +0000
Subject: [6pack] "A" OD elect question
In-Reply-To: <1648723.1214578882175.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
References: <1648723.1214578882175.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1E7FB4@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Kevin, hopefully someone with an A type will chime up shortly with the actual
info but from looking at the circuit diagram for the early cars you could tie
the white wire to the fuse box green circuit so that the relay is energized
only when the ignition is on and perhaps tie the brown wire (which is the
switched  power to the solenoid) to the purple circuit. I assume that the
relay is just there to protect the OD switch and not because there is so much
current that it needs a dedicated feed from the battery so in theory the brown
wire could be attached to any fused power source and I would elect for the
least loaded circuit.

Stan



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dr L.
Kevin McNelis
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 11:01 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] "A" OD elect question

Put in an entire new wiring  harness.  But, I have looked in all my
sources, and I can not for the life of me find out where the two OD (A
type) power wires plug in.  The ones that terminate at the fuse box-
one white, one brown.  Which fuses do these get attached to?  Which two
circuits?

Thanks for the collective knowledge.

Kevin

From ken at azkiwis.com  Fri Jun 27 10:24:53 2008
From: ken at azkiwis.com (Ken Davis)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 09:24:53 -0700
Subject: [6pack] REmoving Body Panels
Message-ID: <C612DB7AF67C42FCA449FD0C0A616F45@AcerPC>

My on-again, off-again, but mostly off  efforts to do some rust work on the 
73  6 might just be on again over the next couple of months.

My driver's side rocker panel is rusted out - stored outside in the san 
Francisco Rain for too long - and needs replacing.

I've never done (well once, 45 years ago) body work, but I'd like to try. 
It looks like a 'moderate' job, but living in the desert, miles from assists 
etc, I'm hesitant to tackle it  with out fully understanding what I'm doing. 
My TR6 manual glosses over removing body panels.

Is there a site that has a 1-2-3 -type write-up on how to remove and replace 
LF LR panels and put in a new rocker panel?


Thanks a bunch

Ken

Maricopa,  Sonoran Desert, Arizona



http://weather.azkiwis.net
Live Weather Conditions
Maricopa, Sonoran Desert, AZ 

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Fri Jun 27 10:41:57 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 10:41:57 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] still befuddled
Message-ID: <18693218.1214584917452.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>

Horn.  New harness, new relay, new ignition switch.  Key out of switch, 
horn works fine.  Put the key in, the horn works fine.  Start the 
engine (or turn key to the "run" position), no horn.  Shut engine off, 
leave key in, no horn.  Remove key, horn works fine.

Excuse me, but W.T.F.  ???

Kevin

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Fri Jun 27 16:17:45 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 18:17:45 -0400
Subject: [6pack] REmoving Body Panels
In-Reply-To: <C612DB7AF67C42FCA449FD0C0A616F45@AcerPC>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCMEFJGHAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Hi Ken,

I have some photos posted about a rusty TR6 showing the before and after.
Unfortunately there is no 1-2-3 procedure posted. Don't let the photos scare
you, my car was really in the "parts car" category and now it's back and
looking pretty darn good. I may have more photos that were not posted so
just yell if you'd like them. Most pages show the rusty and then click on
"Restored" to see it afterward except, for some reason, I never finished the
restored rocker panel". Oops. You can see more of the rockers if you look at
the floor section and the B post page. Check out
http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/rust.htm


Rick Patton
rick at pattonmachine.com
http://pattonmachine.com


> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf
> Of Ken Davis
> Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 12:25 PM
> To: Triumph 6 Pack
> Subject: [6pack] REmoving Body Panels
>
>
> My on-again, off-again, but mostly off  efforts to do some rust
> work on the
> 73  6 might just be on again over the next couple of months.
>
> My driver's side rocker panel is rusted out - stored outside in the san
> Francisco Rain for too long - and needs replacing.
>
> I've never done (well once, 45 years ago) body work, but I'd like to try.
> It looks like a 'moderate' job, but living in the desert, miles
> from assists
> etc, I'm hesitant to tackle it  with out fully understanding what
> I'm doing.
> My TR6 manual glosses over removing body panels.
>
> Is there a site that has a 1-2-3 -type write-up on how to remove
> and replace
> LF LR panels and put in a new rocker panel?
>
>
> Thanks a bunch
>
> Ken
>
> Maricopa,  Sonoran Desert, Arizona

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Jun 27 16:21:03 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 23:21:03 +0100
Subject: [6pack] Date Coding
References: <062620081948.18412.4863F28A0006DBAE000047EC22193100029B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net>
Message-ID: <009f01c8d8a4$16d800b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

John Cyg wrote:

> Did Triumph (or their contract foundries) date code their engine and head castings?  If so, how 
> are these read?

John, heads were certainly coded, though not by date. Because there were many different engine 
specifications for overseas markets, you could find several different coded heads at any one time. 
The code that most people miss - but is in fact the key reference # is usually obscured by the valve 
cover. On the 6 cyl engine, you'll find it on a flat surface between valves 3 and 4, where #1 valve 
is at the front of the engine. Lots of people (mistakenly) tend to use casting numbers but these 
aren't always the guide you need. For many years, the company required its foundries to cast in 
their own reference #s to identify which foundry had made the head in the event of machining and 
warranty problems.

The best way to identify any Standard Triumph head is to use the Stanpart number AND the cylinder 
head code together.

Jonmac 

From shannm2 at triad.rr.com  Fri Jun 27 17:39:20 2008
From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 19:39:20 -0400
Subject: [6pack] still befuddled
References: <18693218.1214584917452.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <000a01c8d8af$05ae6210$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net>

This is what's happening:  When you take the key out, you're engaging the 
steering wheel lock thus creating a ground for the horn.  When you start the 
car the wheel lock disengages, just breaking the ground with the steering 
column.

I would think that you're problem is most like the ground strap that is 
supposed to exist between the upper steering column and the lower.  Make 
sure it's there... also, you should also have a ground connected to the 
grease fill bolt on your steering rack as well.

I had the same issue.. it took me days to figure it out because the ground 
strap on the upper steering column "looked" like it was installed correctly, 
but really looped back on itself.

Good luck,
-Shannon

> Horn.  New harness, new relay, new ignition switch.  Key out of switch,
> horn works fine.  Put the key in, the horn works fine.  Start the
> engine (or turn key to the "run" position), no horn.  Shut engine off,
> leave key in, no horn.  Remove key, horn works fine.

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Jun 27 19:00:05 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 21:00:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] still befuddled
In-Reply-To: <000a01c8d8af$05ae6210$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net>
References: <18693218.1214584917452.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
	<000a01c8d8af$05ae6210$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net>
Message-ID: <000001c8d8ba$519d5040$210110ac@bobspc>

Kevin,
There's a good picture of the ground strap that goes between the upper and
lower column here (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm). It
shows in the 2nd set of pictures and in the last set. I didn't even realize
there was one there until I took the column apart to replace the bushings.

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
Toyota 5 Speed & Nissan LSD
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Shannon Muncy
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 7:39 PM
To: Dr L. Kevin McNelis; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] still befuddled

This is what's happening:  When you take the key out, you're engaging the
steering wheel lock thus creating a ground for the horn.  When you start the
car the wheel lock disengages, just breaking the ground with the steering
column.

I would think that you're problem is most like the ground strap that is
supposed to exist between the upper steering column and the lower.  Make
sure it's there... also, you should also have a ground connected to the
grease fill bolt on your steering rack as well.

I had the same issue.. it took me days to figure it out because the ground
strap on the upper steering column "looked" like it was installed correctly,
but really looped back on itself.

Good luck,
-Shannon

> Horn.  New harness, new relay, new ignition switch.  Key out of 
> switch, horn works fine.  Put the key in, the horn works fine.  Start 
> the engine (or turn key to the "run" position), no horn.  Shut engine 
> off, leave key in, no horn.  Remove key, horn works fine.
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this
incoming message.
Checked by AVG - http://www.avg.com
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11:20 AM

From fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com  Fri Jun 27 16:22:04 2008
From: fetnerj001 at hawaii.rr.com (Jeff Fetner)
Date: Fri, 27 Jun 2008 12:22:04 -1000
Subject: [6pack] still befuddled
References: <18693218.1214584917452.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <4929B5ADDB9040C5884159B854B2581C@HP>

Kevin,

  You're car's not a  '74 or up, is it?  I don't know how, but maybe it got 
wired into the power source for the anti-run-on valve.  I'm not sure how 
that would explain it either, though...

Jeff

74 & 74.5 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Dr L. Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, June 27, 2008 6:41 AM
Subject: [6pack] still befuddled


> Horn.  New harness, new relay, new ignition switch.  Key out of switch,
> horn works fine.  Put the key in, the horn works fine.  Start the
> engine (or turn key to the "run" position), no horn.  Shut engine off,
> leave key in, no horn.  Remove key, horn works fine.
>
> Excuse me, but W.T.F.  ???
>
> Kevin

From rlambour at comcast.net  Sat Jun 28 08:27:19 2008
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard and Tracy Lambour)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 10:27:19 -0400
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 trailing arm bushes
Message-ID: <20080628141928.EDDC818766E@autox.team.net>

Hi all,

 

I recently ordered a set of poly bushed for the front end of my TR-6.  I was
expecting something of similar consistency to my kids' roller skate wheels,
but these things look like hard plastic (they probably soften up with time).

 

Anyway, this had made me wonder about poly bushes for the rear suspension
trailing arms.  Has anyone found that poly trailing arm bushes are
particularly difficult to install (would I better off sticking with rubber)?

 

Thanks for the advice,

 

Rick Lambour

1970 TR-6

From osternd at copper.net  Sat Jun 28 08:35:05 2008
From: osternd at copper.net (dmo)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 10:35:05 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion
Message-ID: <48664C19.7010901@copper.net>

If I'm not to late on this, I'll take a WAG at it -

If I recall correctly, the rear fuel bowl on the Triumph 2000/2500 is 
mounted 1/8 - 1/4" higher than the front fuel bowl (I'm not sure about 
the Volvo and others).  To compensate on the TR6, the float would have 
to be adjusted down by this amount which would be challenging to do 
(especially with the fixed type float).  Normally the float would be in 
a horizontal position when shutting off the fuel and would be pressing 
vertically up on the valve.  Dropping the float down to compensate would 
cause the float to shut the valve in a less than horizontal position 
causing more side load on the needle and might cause the needle to stick 
and lead to flooding problems.

I was less than successful in my early attempts to do that on my car. 
Once I changed the bowl to the correct one (which did come from a Spit), 
no more flooding problems.

Hope that make some sense -

Dale O




Message: 5
Date: Thu, 26 Jun 2008 16:35:58 -0400
From: "Wayne Lee" <wayne at motorcarriage.com>
Subject: Re: [6pack] Choke Cables for SU HS6 Conversion
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <012501c8d7cc$3dd81250$0601a8c0 at D9Z8J571>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

    When I did my SU conversion on my 75 TR6 my original front Cable was 
able
to link up fine
with the front Choke (enrichment Lever). I left the rear cable to perch
itself in front of the rear Carb
to look like it was actually doing something.

    While the subject of fuel Bowls was brought up in the context of this
conversion, there seems to be some
controversy as to the necessity of changing them to the AUD2140 (Spitfire)
bowl when doing them. Other than
just getting them to sit upright, I've heard contrary opinions from 2
different SU guru's. My AUC1310 Bowls,
as used on TR4A's and Volvo's were just swapped from one end to the 
other to
get them vertical and seem to run
fine with the BAE needles and K&N Filters. The other school of thought is
that they're both sitting too high and can alter
mixture over the range of the Metering Needles travel. Anyone else heard
anything on the subject. I'm rebuilding a set now
with the Spit Bowls, but I don't understand why it's necessary.
Cheers,
Wayne Lee
Douglas, MA
58 TR3
64 TR4
75 TR6 Daily Driver
Lola T598

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Jun 28 08:41:48 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 14:41:48 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 trailing arm bushes
In-Reply-To: <20080628141952.1225.qmail@mercury.mv.net>
References: <20080628141952.1225.qmail@mercury.mv.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1E811B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Rick, if anything the synthetic TA bushes are easier to install than the
rubber versions. They come in two pieces and are  easily inserted into the
trailing arms. Some people complain of ride harshness but I have not noticed
that personally. Some synthetics squeak more than others despite assembling
with anti-seize etc and a simple fix is to install a grease fitting under each
bush and lube them once in a while.

Stan

From: owner-net at lists.mv.net [mailto:owner-net at lists.mv.net] On Behalf Of
Richard and Tracy Lambour
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 10:27 AM
To: net at lists.mv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [net] TR-6 trailing arm bushes

Hi all,

I recently ordered a set of poly bushed for the front end of my TR-6.  I was
expecting something of similar consistency to my kids' roller skate wheels,
but these things look like hard plastic (they probably soften up with time).

Anyway, this had made me wonder about poly bushes for the rear suspension
trailing arms.  Has anyone found that poly trailing arm bushes are
particularly difficult to install (would I better off sticking with rubber)?

Thanks for the advice,

Rick Lambour
1970 TR-6

From davidaschenck at comcast.net  Sat Jun 28 14:23:38 2008
From: davidaschenck at comcast.net (davidaschenck at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 20:23:38 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder head removal
Message-ID: <2097970086-1214684600-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1344466826-@bxe017.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

I am having trouble removing the cylinder head on my TR250.  I think part of it may be that I was only able to get out about 1/3rd of the studs and that removing all of them would make it easier.  
  
Any advice or tricks for removing the studs and the cylinder head itself would be greatly appreciated. 
  
Thanks, 
  
Dave Schenck 
  
TR250 
78 Spitfire 
Towson, MD 
  
Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry

From davidaschenck at comcast.net  Sat Jun 28 19:17:28 2008
From: davidaschenck at comcast.net (David A. Schenck)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:17:28 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder head removal
In-Reply-To: <500144487-1214693708-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1267301619-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <20080629011758.532381878BB@autox.team.net>

I got the head off the car.  It took some patience to get the studs out and
then I was able to whack it with a rubber hammer and it popped right off.
My next step is pull one of the intake valves and check it.  What is the
easiest way to remove the valve springs.  Bentley and Haynes say to use a
valve spring compressor.  Where do I get one of these?  Any tips or tricks
to be aware of?

Thanks,

Dave

TR250
'78 Spitfire
Towson, MD

-----Original Message-----
From: lfm614 at aol.com [mailto:lfm614 at aol.com]
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 6:55 PM
To: davidaschenck at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Cylinder head removal

I used the rope trick on mine.  You stuff as much 1/4" nylon rope in
cylinders 1 & 6 and turn the crank with a pipe wrench or put the car in a
high gear and roll it a bit.   It will try to compress the rope which of
course it can't do and break the head loose.

Lou
------Original Message------
From: davidaschenck at comcast.net
Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
ReplyTo: davidaschenck at comcast.net
Sent: Jun 28, 2008 3:23 PM
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder head removal

I am having trouble removing the cylinder head on my TR250.  I think part of
it may be that I was only able to get out about 1/3rd of the studs and that
removing all of them would make it easier.

Any advice or tricks for removing the studs and the cylinder head itself
would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Dave Schenck

TR250
78 Spitfire
Towson, MD

Sent from my Verizon Wireless BlackBerry
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Sat Jun 28 19:55:11 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:55:11 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder head removal
In-Reply-To: <20080629011758.532381878BB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCOEGJGHAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

The quickest way to remove the valve springs is with a deep socket and a
hammer. Cut a small block of wood that will fit into the combustion chamber
that is slightly less than the depth of the chamber. Paint stir sticks work
pretty well. Place the block of wood on the bench and set the head over it
so the block is hidden inside the chamber. Choose a socket that is nearly
the diameter of the valve spring washer. Place the open side of the socket
against the washer and give it a whack. The spring will compress and the
retainers will likely fall out freeing the valve. Sometimes it takes a
second whack but you ought to able to completely disassemble the head in
less than five minutes. Faster once you get the hang of it. You will need a
compressor to reinstall the valves.

Rick Patton
rick at pattonmachine.com
http://pattonmachine.com


> -----Original Message-----
> From: 6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net
> [mailto:6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf
> Of David A. Schenck
snip

> My next step is pull one of the intake valves and check it.  What is the
> easiest way to remove the valve springs.  Bentley and Haynes say to use a
> valve spring compressor.  Where do I get one of these?  Any tips or tricks
> to be aware of?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Dave

From bratt at sasktel.net  Sat Jun 28 20:05:46 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 20:05:46 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder head removal
In-Reply-To: <20080629011758.532381878BB@autox.team.net>
References: <20080629011758.532381878BB@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <1214705146.5830.3.camel@ed-desktop>

David:

Many car parts dealers loan tools, such as valve spring compressors.  

Ed Bratt
1976 Tr6
Regina, Saskatchewan

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Sat Jun 28 20:17:07 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 22:17:07 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 trailing arm bushes
In-Reply-To: <20080628141952.1225.qmail@mercury.mv.net>
References: <20080628141952.1225.qmail@mercury.mv.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806282213430.1424@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Get NYLATRON for the back.

Trust me - they will last. And yes, they are hard. But they work and they 
last.

The current rubber stuff is C-R-A-P and won't last as long as the original 
ones did. Unless you like doing this job every few years, get the best 
bushings you can afford.

Also note that the fronts will last longer than the rears because of how 
they are stressed... the rears will egg out unless you get high quality 
stuff.

Also note that no matter what, urethane is the softest bushing material 
you should use for your front upper control arms. I've seen the rubber 
ones fail in less than 500 miles.

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Jun 28 20:21:22 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 22:21:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Cylinder head removal
Message-ID: <5CFFE86B.7E318179.00159EE9@cs.com>

Rick!

my dad taught me that trick in about 1956....the first time i showed this MY son, he was not impressed. but it works very well.

i wanted to share that little mechanic's trick, but was in fear of the flame.  thanks  :-)

it beats the heck out of the flat rate manual.

joe alexander...somewhere in michigan, heading back to iowa 

>The quickest way to remove the valve springs is with a deep socket and a
>hammer. Cut a small block of wood that will fit into the combustion chamber
>that is slightly less than the depth of the chamber. Paint stir sticks work
>pretty well. Place the block of wood on the bench and set the head over it
>so the block is hidden inside the chamber. Choose a socket that is nearly
>the diameter of the valve spring washer. Place the open side of the socket
>against the washer and give it a whack. The spring will compress and the
>retainers will likely fall out freeing the valve. Sometimes it takes a
>second whack but you ought to able to completely disassemble the head in
>less than five minutes. Faster once you get the hang of it. You will need a
>compressor to reinstall the valves.
>
>Rick Patton
>rick at pattonmachine.com
>http://pattonmachine.com
>
>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: 6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net
>> [mailto:6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf
>> Of David A. Schenck
>snip
>
>> My next step is pull one of the intake valves and check it.  What is the
>> easiest way to remove the valve springs.  Bentley and Haynes say to use a
>> valve spring compressor.  Where do I get one of these?  Any tips or tricks
>> to be aware of?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Dave
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com

From rsh17 at msn.com  Sat Jun 28 20:31:40 2008
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:31:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 trailing arm bushes
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806282213430.1424@isis.mit.edu>
References: <20080628141952.1225.qmail@mercury.mv.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806282213430.1424@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W225234338438625CF25501AA9C0@phx.gbl>

 I second Robert's opinion, rubber is crap, so is the other uprated URETHANE
stuff, don't believe what anyone else says, that urethane sold by TRF, and
another abreviated named company is crap, trust me, I went through two sets
that wallered out on the inner most bushing. Neither set lasted more than 500
miles (that's being generous).
 Richard Good's nylatron while harder to install will last.

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com

View My 1969 TR6 restoration @
(http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration)
 OR
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92



_________________________________________________________________
Windows Live Hotmail is giving away Zunes. Enter for your chance to win.
http://www.windowslive-hotmail.com/ZuneADay/?locale=en-US&ocid=TXT_TAGLM_Mobi
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From rsh17 at msn.com  Sat Jun 28 20:32:38 2008
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:32:38 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 trailing arm bushes
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806282213430.1424@isis.mit.edu>
References: <20080628141952.1225.qmail@mercury.mv.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806282213430.1424@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W114F57CB3A18C60D49FFF8AA9C0@phx.gbl>

 I second Robert's opinion, rubber is crap, so is the other uprated URETHANE
stuff, don't believe what anyone else says, that urethane sold by TRF, and
another abreviated named company is crap, trust me, I went through two sets
that wallered out on the inner most bushing. Neither set lasted more than 500
miles (that's being generous).
 Richard Good's nylatron while harder to install will last.

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com

View My 1969 TR6 restoration @
(http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration)
 OR
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92



_________________________________________________________________
Enter the Zune-A-Day Giveaway for your chance to win  day after day after
day
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From rsh17 at msn.com  Sat Jun 28 20:33:55 2008
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 21:33:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TA bushings
Message-ID: <BAY104-W13D567AB4B6739ABE70E0BAA9C0@phx.gbl>

 I second Robert's opinion, rubber is crap, so is the other uprated
URETHANE stuff, don't believe what anyone else says, that urethane sold
by TRF, and another abreviated named company is crap, trust me, I went
through two sets that wallered out on the inner most bushing. Neither
set lasted more than 500 miles (that's being generous).
 Richard Good's nylatron while harder to install will last.

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com


 OR
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92





_________________________________________________________________
Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play chicktionary!
http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_feb

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sat Jun 28 21:19:06 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net)
Date: Sat, 28 Jun 2008 20:19:06 -0700 (PDT)
Subject: [6pack] Looking like a car again
Message-ID: <200806290319.m5T3J7IL025176@upsa-web110.ofoto.com>

Today the body shop put the doors, quarter panels and fenders on the car.  It's looking like a car again!  They were going to paint the hood today to allow more curing time so we can tape for the stripe and then paint the rest on Monday.  We'll likely do the stripe on Tuesday and then perhaps mount the body on the chassis Thursday, July third, which happens to be my 40th birthday, a mere seven days after my car turned 40 on the 26th.  We'll have to mount the hood to lay out the stripe, so you'll notice the bonnet release with the corner cones in place.  
Andy


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From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Sun Jun 29 23:00:53 2008
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 22:00:53 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch situation
Message-ID: <001601c8da6e$46b3b7e0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>

Fellow listers,

Today was the hottest day of the year so far in the Pacific Northwest, and at
a very busy intersection in the city of Seattle, my TR6's clutch quit working.
The useless pedal went to the floor but the clutch remained engaged.  The
clear plastic tube had popped off the barbed metal fitting at the end of the
metal tubing that comes from the clutch master cylinder.  I don't think there
ever was a hose clamp on the barbed fitting.

Since there was no hydraulic fluid available within walking distance of where
we were, I bought some crankcase oil at a nearby grocery store and poured it
in the clutch master cylinder.  I had my girlfriend pump the pedal in order to
fill the line down to the barbed fitting before I reconnected the plastic tube
to it.  Taking the hose clamp from the crankcase breather tube and using a
screw driver she had in her purse (I learned not to knock her extremely heavy
purse long ago), I secured the plastic tube to the barbed fitting.  I hoped
that I would be able to pump up the clutch enough to use it to limp home as
surely there was some air in the line below where the tubing came off.  Also I
was, of course, using mere crankcase oil instead of the correct hydraulic
fluid.  After about six or eight pumps of the clutch pedal I was getting
clutch engagement right at the top of the pedal travel, just like nothing had
ever happened.  We continued on our way with the clutch working perfectly for
the rest of the day.

I expect to flush out the clutch hydraulic system with hydraulic fluid.
However, why should I?


Gary
'73

From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Mon Jun 30 00:51:09 2008
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Sun, 29 Jun 2008 23:51:09 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Clutch situation
References: <831591.91249.qm@web82602.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000d01c8da7d$adb9c7e0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>

Kendall,

You're making me laugh!


Gary

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kendall Larsen" <mailkendall at sbcglobal.net>
To: "Gary Fluke" <gary.fluke at verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 11:44 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch situation


> That's a quality LBC story Gary! Sounds like you've got a keeper. I'd be 
> tempted to leave well enough alone on the clutch too... haha...
>
> Kendall

From tr6 at pipeline.com  Mon Jun 30 04:26:22 2008
From: tr6 at pipeline.com (Ronald Olds)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 06:26:22 -0400
Subject: [6pack] Clutch situation
In-Reply-To: <001601c8da6e$46b3b7e0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>
Message-ID: <!&!AAAAAAAAAAAuAAAAAAAAAGR0/UN+345Oi0ESU7rmM4wBAITr15KniR9MuVqf/6yjAv4AAAFImMEAABAAAABWD50KX+mJR7s0XS9MZXp4AQAAAAA=@pipeline.com>

Gary,

You ask a good question.  There are many cases where engine oil and
transmission fluid are used in place of hydraulic oil in heavy equipment.
It appears to work fine.  The hydraulic pump manufactures have some concerns
but I do not see this as being a problem in the clutch application.  That
being said I personally prefer to use the fluid that is specified in all
applications.

Ron Olds

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+tr6=pipeline.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary
Fluke
Sent: Monday, June 30, 2008 1:01 AM
To: Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] Clutch situation

Fellow listers,

Today was the hottest day of the year so far in the Pacific Northwest, and
at
a very busy intersection in the city of Seattle, my TR6's clutch quit
working.
The useless pedal went to the floor but the clutch remained engaged.  The
clear plastic tube had popped off the barbed metal fitting at the end of the
metal tubing that comes from the clutch master cylinder.  I don't think
there
ever was a hose clamp on the barbed fitting.

Since there was no hydraulic fluid available within walking distance of
where
we were, I bought some crankcase oil at a nearby grocery store and poured it
in the clutch master cylinder.  I had my girlfriend pump the pedal in order
to
fill the line down to the barbed fitting before I reconnected the plastic
tube
to it.  Taking the hose clamp from the crankcase breather tube and using a
screw driver she had in her purse (I learned not to knock her extremely
heavy
purse long ago), I secured the plastic tube to the barbed fitting.  I hoped
that I would be able to pump up the clutch enough to use it to limp home as
surely there was some air in the line below where the tubing came off.  Also
I
was, of course, using mere crankcase oil instead of the correct hydraulic
fluid.  After about six or eight pumps of the clutch pedal I was getting
clutch engagement right at the top of the pedal travel, just like nothing
had
ever happened.  We continued on our way with the clutch working perfectly
for
the rest of the day.

I expect to flush out the clutch hydraulic system with hydraulic fluid.
However, why should I?


Gary
'73
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6 at pipeline.com

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Mon Jun 30 10:10:41 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 10:10:41 -0600 (MDT)
Subject: [6pack] still befuddled
Message-ID: <22124390.1214842241914.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu>

Shannon,

THANK YOU!  I never would have thought of your solution (you are right, 
the strap is missing).

To me, that is the wonder of the list-  I can post some esoteric, weird 
problem, and chances are someone will step up and say "yep, happened to 
me, here's how to fix it..."

Again, many thanks to all (you too, Bob D for your further explanation).

Kevin





Shannon Muncy wrote:


>This is what's happening:  When you take the key out, you're engaging 
the 
> steering wheel lock thus creating a ground for the horn.  When you 
start the 
> car the wheel lock disengages, just breaking the ground with the 
steering 
> column.

> I would think that you're problem is most like the ground strap that 
is 
> supposed to exist between the upper steering column and the lower.  
Make 
> sure it's there... also, you should also have a ground connected to 
the 
> grease fill bolt on your steering rack as well.

> I had the same issue.. it took me days to figure it out because the 
ground 
> strap on the upper steering column "looked" like it was installed 
correctly, 
> but really looped back on itself.

> Good luck,
> -Shannon

> > Horn.  New harness, new relay, new ignition switch.  Key out of 
switch,
> > horn works fine.  Put the key in, the horn works fine.  Start the
> > engine (or turn key to the "run" position), no horn.  Shut engine 
off,
> > leave key in, no horn.  Remove key, horn works fine.

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Jun 30 10:23:04 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 12:23:04 -0400 (EDT)
Subject: [6pack] Ohhhh.... tire pressure!
In-Reply-To: <665299.11762.qm@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <665299.11762.qm@web37505.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0806301218330.12253@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 25 Jun 2008, richard olson wrote:

> 6packs -
>
> I will try to get my tire pressure in a good thing.  I used the psi at
> 20 front/24 rear for years.
>
> Last 2 months,  I went my psi at 26 front/30 rear.
> Not a get thing.  Going back to 20/24!

Hmmmm... I've been using 32 front/rear for years. Awesome handling. I can 
rotate the car on exit ramps (it's great to see your passenger WIDE-EYED 
as you drive a sweeperwith neutral steering!!)

The lower pressure (stock settings) in the front reduces understeer.

But also note that if you change to something other than Michelin X's or 
the standard Goodyear G800's, the pressures on the door don't matter one 
iota. They're a guideline once the OEM tires are gone.

> Thanks,
> Rick Olson '72 TR6

rml
TR6's
One with gonzo Yoko A509's 215/65-15 (32/32)
One with Hoosier Bias slicks 23x9x15 (34/34) <- this one rotates "real 
nice")

:-)
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Mon Jun 30 12:55:07 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 14:55:07 -0400
Subject: [6pack] PDWA O-rings
Message-ID: <7128507.1286771214852107836.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web07-z02>

I am about to take the PDWA out my early '74-Six (leaking) and note that different sources seem to specify differing sizes for the o-rings to be used. I believe the original o-rings were square cut but that standard round profile rings will work. Also, it appears VITON, EPDM, and some other compounds will work well. http://www.marcorubber.com/material_chart.htm There seems to be some disagreement between the Buckeye Triumphs site http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/Brakes/MCPDWA/MC.htm and the VTR site http://www.vtr.org/maintain/pdwa.shtml , regarding the correct size(s) to use. I realize different years use different sizes (early vs. late TR) but that doesn't seem to be clarified by either of these articles.
Also, any tips on PDWA piston removal (is compressed air the only/best way)?
Thanks for any help,
Dave
CF25194UO+TBI

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Jun 30 13:16:57 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 19:16:57 GMT
Subject: [6pack] Clutch situation
Message-ID: <BAY101-DAV11235024A0003BC45A92BBF49F0@phx.gbl>

Gary---It is said that motor oil will soften the seals that is used in both the clutch and brake cylinders. I'd vote for a quick flush of the clutch hydraulic parts with mineral spirits, and refilling with DOT 3 or 4.

You should carry your own "purse" for those drives when your girlfriend isn't with you!

Dick


-----Original Message-----
From: Gary Fluke
Sent: Sunday, June 29, 2008 10:00 PM
To: Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] Clutch situation

Fellow listers,

Today was the hottest day of the year so far in the Pacific Northwest, and at
a very busy intersection in the city of Seattle, my TR6's clutch quit working.
The useless pedal went to the floor but the clutch remained engaged.  The
clear plastic tube had popped off the barbed metal fitting at the end of the
metal tubing that comes from the clutch master cylinder.  I don't think there
ever was a hose clamp on the barbed fitting.

Since there was no hydraulic fluid available within walking distance of where
we were, I bought some crankcase oil at a nearby grocery store and poured it
in the clutch master cylinder.  I had my girlfriend pump the pedal in order to
fill the line down to the barbed fitting before I reconnected the plastic tube
to it.  Taking the hose clamp from the crankcase breather tube and using a
screw driver she had in her purse (I learned not to knock her extremely heavy
purse long ago), I secured the plastic tube to the barbed fitting.  I hoped
that I would be able to pump up the clutch enough to use it to limp home as
surely there was some air in the line below where the tubing came off.  Also I
was, of course, using mere crankcase oil instead of the correct hydraulic
fluid.  After about six or eight pumps of the clutch pedal I was getting
clutch engagement right at the top of the pedal travel, just like nothing had
ever happened.  We continued on our way with the clutch working perfectly for
the rest of the day.

I expect to flush out the clutch hydraulic system with hydraulic fluid.
However, why should I?


Gary
'73
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net

From rlambour at comcast.net  Mon Jun 30 17:51:04 2008
From: rlambour at comcast.net (Richard and Tracy Lambour)
Date: Mon, 30 Jun 2008 19:51:04 -0400
Subject: [6pack] [net] TR-6 trailing arm bushes
In-Reply-To: <20080628141952.1225.qmail@mercury.mv.net>
Message-ID: <20080630234308.64C64187681@autox.team.net>

Hi all,

 

Thanks very much for the advice; I'll go ahead and install poly in the rear
end too.  

 

Cheers,

 

Rick Lambour

1970 TR-6

 

  _____  

From: owner-net at lists.mv.net [mailto:owner-net at lists.mv.net] On Behalf Of
Richard and Tracy Lambour
Sent: Saturday, June 28, 2008 10:27 AM
To: net at lists.mv.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [net] TR-6 trailing arm bushes

 

Hi all,

 

I recently ordered a set of poly bushed for the front end of my TR-6.  I was
expecting something of similar consistency to my kids' roller skate wheels,
but these things look like hard plastic (they probably soften up with time).

 

Anyway, this had made me wonder about poly bushes for the rear suspension
trailing arms.  Has anyone found that poly trailing arm bushes are
particularly difficult to install (would I better off sticking with rubber)?

 

Thanks for the advice,

 

Rick Lambour

1970 TR-6

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Jun 30 18:24:01 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 1 Jul 2008 00:24:01 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Wanted - dizzy/oil pump drive and a warning about new
 oil pumps
In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1681A6@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1681A6@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF723CBA1E83E0@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Just wanted to follow up and say thanks to everyone for the many responses
that I received after my SOS for a dizzy drive gear. I was able to borrow one
from a fellow club member out of his spare engine so I could get mine started
(and discover a major oil leak) and Chuck Arnold was kind enough to send me a
replacement which arrived today. FWIW the newly rebuilt engine had its maiden
voyage today and while I cant yet test its full potential I can already see
that the time, money, pain, anxiety, blood, sweat and tears (ok, it never came
to tears but it was close a few times) expended since last December have been
worth it and I owe Bob Lang a special thanks for his guidance and hands on
help as I would never had tackled this project alone.

Stan