From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jan 1 06:48:11 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 13:48:11 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FE9@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Hi and happy new year. As part of my conversion to Webers I will no longer be using the water circuit through that carbs and this will free up that port on the water pump housing. I could block it with a brass plug or I could screw in another water temp sender unit and have it there as a spare but I was also wondering if I could use this port for an Electric fan temp switch ?. I like the electric fan idea but I'm not thrilled with the switch arrangements that I have seen so far (attach to radiator fins, T adapter in top hose etc). Are there fan switches that would fit and work in this port ? Another question.. do all electric fans need a relay or is it just the ones with high current demands ?. If I go down this path it will be a puller fan used to replace the mechanical fan so it would be a 16 inch model and I see some of these are rated in excess of 16 amps. Stan From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Tue Jan 1 08:10:21 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 15:10:21 -0000 Subject: [6pack] You and your car - are one year older Message-ID: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> For all listers A very Happy New Year to all. You were designed to last a long time, rust will never affect you though wear in critical joints of your driveline might raise its ugly head - with the passage of time. Take comfort that while you may be aging (just a little) it's nothing short of a miracle that your Triumph is still with you. Remember, it was never in the wildest nightmares of those who designed and made it that it would last this long. Enjoy - and if I can borrow a Land Rover advertising slogan here "one life, live it!" Cheers all, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 1 08:58:36 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 10:58:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FE9@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FE9@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <000901c84c8f$2e40c490$210110ac@bobspc> Stan, I'd encourage going the relay route. My original 12" Hayden Fan included a relay with the thermostat as did the new 16" Spal fan that I installed in Sept. Seeing as you have your radiator out of the car, I assume you'll be getting it cleaned, flushed and tested by a radiator shop. Why not have them solder in a bung at the top corner of the radiator to match whatever fan kit you buy? Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 8:48 AM To: 6pack Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? Hi and happy new year. As part of my conversion to Webers I will no longer be using the water circuit through that carbs and this will free up that port on the water pump housing. I could block it with a brass plug or I could screw in another water temp sender unit and have it there as a spare but I was also wondering if I could use this port for an Electric fan temp switch ?. I like the electric fan idea but I'm not thrilled with the switch arrangements that I have seen so far (attach to radiator fins, T adapter in top hose etc). Are there fan switches that would fit and work in this port ? Another question.. do all electric fans need a relay or is it just the ones with high current demands ?. If I go down this path it will be a puller fan used to replace the mechanical fan so it would be a 16 inch model and I see some of these are rated in excess of 16 amps. Stan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1205 - Release Date: 12/31/2007 3:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1205 - Release Date: 12/31/2007 3:32 PM From jmitch at snet.net Tue Jan 1 10:20:28 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 12:20:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] You and your car - are one year older In-Reply-To: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <008d01c84c88$6ded4a70$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <477A765C.8070902@snet.net> I just wish someone would do a frame off restoration on me:) Happy New Year John Mitchell John Macartney wrote: > For all listers > > A very Happy New Year to all. You were designed to last a long time, rust will never affect you > though wear in critical joints of your driveline might raise its ugly head - with the passage of > time. > > Take comfort that while you may be aging (just a little) it's nothing short of a miracle that your > Triumph is still with you. Remember, it was never in the wildest nightmares of those who designed > and made it that it would last this long. From forzion at maine.rr.com Tue Jan 1 13:13:16 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 15:13:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Message-ID: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> Hello Listers! And a Happy New Year to you all from snowy (again/still) Maine! Does anyone have a good model of tripod worklight to recommend? Something similar to the item shown here (but at a more affordable price) would be good. http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=SL086&cat=2835 I didn't care for the reviews given for the Sears model at: http://snipurl.com/1waoj All inputs appreciated! Cheers! Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jan 1 16:11:46 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 23:11:46 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? In-Reply-To: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> References: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Dave, I bought this tripod lamp with two 500w halogen lamp unit from Sears for around $40. The system has adjustable height and the lamp unit detaches for working in areas where the tripod cant go like under the car. It has been perfect for my winter projects. It puts out serious amounts of light and heat, both of which I appreciate this year (Northern MA) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473828000P?keyword=halogen Here is the lamp in action. Apologies in advance for the wrapped URL(s). http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/DSC _0032.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 3:13 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Hello Listers! And a Happy New Year to you all from snowy (again/still) Maine! Does anyone have a good model of tripod worklight to recommend? Something similar to the item shown here (but at a more affordable price) would be good. http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=SL086&cat=2835 I didn't care for the reviews given for the Sears model at: http://snipurl.com/1waoj All inputs appreciated! Cheers! Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI From samuelsma at aol.com Tue Jan 1 16:53:45 2008 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Tue, 01 Jan 2008 18:53:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Heater control valve Message-ID: <8CA1AE8AE2B4182-B84-1998@WEBMAIL-DG10> Listers: We actually have some cold (OK, mid-40's, but cold for Miami) weather coming up in the next day or 2.? I checked the function of my heater control valve and the cable that moves it.? I noticed that there is more possible travel in the little arm on the valve than the cable can accommodate.? Right now, it is set up so that the cable closes the valve fully but cannot open it fully (about 3 quarters, not all the way).? Is this how it should be set up?? I notice that the heat comes out reasonably warm, but not really hot.? When closed, there is no heat. Thanks. Michael '76 Tahiti blue ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From jsvannorman at gmail.com Tue Jan 1 17:52:50 2008 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 19:52:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] E. Nardi steering wheel on eBay Message-ID: As some of you know, I have a used E. Nardi steering wheel that I pulled off my TR6 due to my height (needed a smaller diameter steering wheel). Since I don't need it and need to raise some cash for some other TR6 purchases, I'm finally getting around to putting it up on eBay. If you are interested, it is item number 160195104233. John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 -- www.vannorman.no-ip.org From DLylis at aol.com Tue Jan 1 19:05:17 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 21:05:17 EST Subject: [6pack] Heater control valve Message-ID: Disconnect the cable and open it fully by hand. Once it becomes "Miami" again, reconnect it. I am in Tampa Bay and it is going to be in the 30s. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Jan 2 06:25:50 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 13:25:50 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? Message-ID: <010220081325.14001.477B90DD000DD5AC000036B12207022933970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Foster, Stan" > Hi and happy new year. > > As part of my conversion to Webers I will no longer be using the water circuit > through that carbs and this will free up that port on the water pump housing. > I could block it with a brass plug or I could screw in another water temp > sender unit and have it there as a spare but I was also wondering if I could > use this port for an Electric fan temp switch ?. I like the electric fan idea > but I'm not thrilled with the switch arrangements that I have seen so far > (attach to radiator fins, T adapter in top hose etc). Are there fan switches > that would fit and work in this port ? Stan, Here's a potential solution to your fan switch question. Go to http://www.revingtontr.com and search for electric fan. One of the hits will be a stainless steel radiator pipe with a built in boss to take a thermostat for the electric fan. They also sell the thermostat. I have a similar arrangement on my TR4 vintage race car, and it is a very clean installation. It won't go into the unused water pump port, but it will give you a better way to do this than many other methods. HTH, Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 2 14:05:15 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 13:05:15 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Cheap TR6 sway bars Message-ID: Folks: In case people did not know, you can get sway bars for Triumphs cheap at www.jegs.com, usually about $100 less than the big three. Search for sway bars, then search for Triumph within the sway bar category. Jeg's carries all the Addco stuff. Course if you want anything other than Addco, you are on your own. If any of you are into Minis as well, www.summitracing.com carries mini sway bars for $100 less than outfits like Mini Mania. In the case of summit, you can search on the Addco part number and find out if they carry the bar (They do not stock the triumph bars though - rats). The bar for mini was $149 with shipping being a measly $10. Screaming deal. So don't forget to checkout the big performance parts houses for the more mundane parts (electric fans, sway bars, shocks, etc) usually much cheaper than the big three. Vance From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 2 15:06:26 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 17:06:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Oberg Tilt Sling Message-ID: <000b01c84d8b$ba29beb0$210110ac@bobspc> I'm going to pull the engine and tranny this week and picked up an Oberg Tilt Sling to make life easier......or so I'm told. The only problem is that their directions are lacking, at best. To paraphrase the directions: 1. attach both ends of the cable before turning drum and 2. one half turn of the drum with a 1/2" ratchet will tilt an engine up to 45 degrees. End of directions. So I'm left to assuming, which always gets me in trouble. I assume that releasing the Oberg locking bar will let me pull out sufficient cable to attach to the engine and I assume that as you pull the engine up and forward you can release the locking bar and the engine will hold its position while you ratchet it to the angle you want. I also assume that ratcheting in one direction raises the front and in the other direction lowers the front. As always.....thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1206 - Release Date: 1/1/2008 12:09 PM From sakirsis at consolidated.net Wed Jan 2 15:07:15 2008 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 16:07:15 -0600 Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam Message-ID: <001201c84d8b$d582a140$6601a8c0@MomandDad> This is beautiful. Just got an E-Mail from Richard Good about the cam I sent him as a core for one of his re-ground GP-2s. Definitely not a usable core as it was delivered to him by the Post Office in 2 pieces. Yep, broken in two pieces. Called the PO and am told they have no responsibility as I did not take insurance. It was sent Priority Mail, 8lbs. for almost 16.00 dollars. Any-one out there with any knowledge of PO rules and responsibilities? If I had only known.........! Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 2 15:13:32 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 14:13:32 -0800 Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam In-Reply-To: <001201c84d8b$d582a140$6601a8c0@MomandDad> References: <001201c84d8b$d582a140$6601a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: Steve: Sorry to hear that. Can't help you with the PO. But contact British Auto Works (www.britishautoworks.com). They have cores for sale, and they should be pretty cheap. NFI, etc. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Kirsis Sent: January 02, 2008 2:07 PM To: '6pack' Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam This is beautiful. Just got an E-Mail from Richard Good about the cam I sent him as a core for one of his re-ground GP-2s. Definitely not a usable core as it was delivered to him by the Post Office in 2 pieces. Yep, broken in two pieces. Called the PO and am told they have no responsibility as I did not take insurance. It was sent Priority Mail, 8lbs. for almost 16.00 dollars. Any-one out there with any knowledge of PO rules and responsibilities? If I had only known.........! Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 2 15:25:20 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 22:25:20 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Oberg Tilt Sling In-Reply-To: <000b01c84d8b$ba29beb0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000b01c84d8b$ba29beb0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE50DC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Hi Bob, my unit came with enough cable unspooled to easily reach the front and rear lifting eyes. I bought a couple of shackles from Home Depot to secure the cables to the lifting points. The ratchet is manual, meaning you have to lift the locking bar, then using a long 1/2 inch breaker bar you can tilt the engine either way by moving the bar in the obvious direction. It works the way you would expect. You need a long bar and you need to insert it into the tilt lift in such a way that you will be comfortable moving it through the range that you need to. The engine and tranny are heavy and you will need to be able to exert a not insignificant amount of effort to move them and hold that position while you drop the locking bar into a suitable slot and then you can relax. You don't want to be in an awkward position where you have no leverage while you try and hold it with one hand and lock the tilt lift with the other. You get quite a lot of tilt from a small movement so it is unlikely that you will need to rotate it more than 45 degrees at any one time and there will be a few strategic points where you will need to rotate it. The nice thing is that once the end of the tranny clears the bulkhead you can level off the load and you don't have to lift so high before you can pull the whole thing clear. I did this on my own and I am no Charles Atlas. The only thing I didn't like was that by connecting the tilt lift directly to the lifting eyes they were bent slightly inwards. Nothing that could not be easily be fixed later. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 5:06 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: [6pack] Oberg Tilt Sling I'm going to pull the engine and tranny this week and picked up an Oberg Tilt Sling to make life easier......or so I'm told. The only problem is that their directions are lacking, at best. To paraphrase the directions: 1. attach both ends of the cable before turning drum and 2. one half turn of the drum with a 1/2" ratchet will tilt an engine up to 45 degrees. End of directions. So I'm left to assuming, which always gets me in trouble. I assume that releasing the Oberg locking bar will let me pull out sufficient cable to attach to the engine and I assume that as you pull the engine up and forward you can release the locking bar and the engine will hold its position while you ratchet it to the angle you want. I also assume that ratcheting in one direction raises the front and in the other direction lowers the front. As always.....thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 2 15:34:25 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 14:34:25 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Oberg Tilt Sling In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE50DC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000b01c84d8b$ba29beb0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE50DC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: Annoying isn't it? My DPO had snapped off one of the lifting eyes, and just left it for me to fix. It required removal of the exhaust manifold to replace, so not a trivial task. The Triumph engineers really screwed the pooch on that one, I think. What good are lifting eyes that bend/break the first time you use them? Roger Williams in his book gives instructions for bracing the lifting eyes prior to use. Humph! Forget the lifting eyes and use a sling or a rope wrapped around the block. Lots of clever engineering on the TR6, but this doesn't fall into that category. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: January 02, 2008 2:25 PM To: Bob Danielson; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Oberg Tilt Sling The only thing I didn't like was that by connecting the tilt lift directly to the lifting eyes they were bent slightly inwards. Nothing that could not be easily be fixed later. Stan From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 2 15:44:14 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 22:44:14 +0000 Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam In-Reply-To: References: <001201c84d8b$d582a140$6601a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE50DE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> If I'm interpreting Steve's email correctly he already has his reground cam, he was just sending the old one back to Richard for a future regrind. I'm surprised that the value of the core exceeded the shipping by enough to make that transaction worthwhile.. I don't use USPS for anything that I care about. UPS or Fedex cost a few shillings more but they are deterministic with the delivery and there is an audit trail. You also have to package appropriately regardless of how you ship. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 5:14 PM To: Steve Kirsis; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam Steve: Sorry to hear that. Can't help you with the PO. But contact British Auto Works (www.britishautoworks.com). They have cores for sale, and they should be pretty cheap. NFI, etc. Vance From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Jan 2 16:17:08 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 23:17:08 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <028b01c84d95$993c7080$0201a8c0@Bevan> My sincere apologies for 'bombing' the lists. An enthusiast from central Florida wrote me recently suggesting a venue in that location. Unfortunately, I seem to have deleted his post before filing it. Could that person please contact me off-list please? Thanks Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Wed Jan 2 16:48:24 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 15:48:24 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Headers Message-ID: <882879.92191.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Can someone out there refresh my memory about the best headers to buy for a late model head (2 pipe exhaust). I seem to recall that a lot of people were unhappy with the fit and durability of the Monza headers. I have an early 6 (1970) with a late model head and would like a few more HP (doesn't everyone). Also, can someone also refresh my memory, or what little I have lert, about compression ratios. I thought that since I installed .020 over pistons the compression ratio would go down (more volume). Someone said it worked the opposite way (bigger pistons-comp ratio goes up). Which one is right? TIA. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6, Goodparts S-2 cam, 9.8/1 compression --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 2 16:57:40 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 23:57:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Headers In-Reply-To: <882879.92191.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <882879.92191.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE50F5@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> According to Richards handy dandy compression ratio chart, the compression ratio increases as the bore size increases, everything else being equal. http://www.goodparts.com/tech_docs/TR6_Compression_Ratio.html Re the headers, what I have read is that the standard late exhaust manifold is actually pretty good and the biggest bang for the buck is from replacing the two pipe system for a single larger pipe and especially getting rid of the standard muffler but I'll let Vance express his opinion on the muffler since he does it so well.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Headers Can someone out there refresh my memory about the best headers to buy for a late model head (2 pipe exhaust). I seem to recall that a lot of people were unhappy with the fit and durability of the Monza headers. I have an early 6 (1970) with a late model head and would like a few more HP (doesn't everyone). Also, can someone also refresh my memory, or what little I have lert, about compression ratios. I thought that since I installed .020 over pistons the compression ratio would go down (more volume). Someone said it worked the opposite way (bigger pistons-comp ratio goes up). Which one is right? TIA. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6, Goodparts S-2 cam, 9.8/1 compression From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Jan 2 17:36:01 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 16:36:01 -0800 Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam In-Reply-To: "Steve Kirsis" 's message of Wed, 2 Jan 2008 16:07:15 -0600 Message-ID: <29533-477C2DF1-5326@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Steve---I shipped a rear hub core to TRF using USPS. When I didn't see a credit for this return after a few months I called TRF Dave. He checked and said they never received it. To shorten the story, about six weeks later the LID of the box that I shipped it in was mailed to me. That's it! No responsibility "unless insured". And here I thought shipping to the address was what I was paying for! Silly me. Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: sakirsis at consolidated.net(Steve Kirsis) Date: Wed, Jan 2, 2008, 4:07pm (PST+2) To: 6pack at autox.team.net ('6pack') Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam This is beautiful. Just got an E-Mail from Richard Good about the cam I sent him as a core for one of his re-ground GP-2s. Definitely not a usable core as it was delivered to him by the Post Office in 2 pieces. Yep, broken in two pieces. Called the PO and am told they have no responsibility as I did not take insurance. It was sent Priority Mail, 8lbs. for almost 16.00 dollars. Any-one out there with any knowledge of PO rules and responsibilities? If I had only known.........! Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. ______________________________________ From trsix74 at comcast.net Wed Jan 2 18:55:46 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 20:55:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam In-Reply-To: <29533-477C2DF1-5326@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> References: "Steve Kirsis" 's message ofWed, 2 Jan 2008 16:07:15 -0600 <29533-477C2DF1-5326@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <002801c84dab$c2b1fcd0$6601a8c0@Robert> I never send a package USPS. They are the pits. But we need them so that it makes all the other shipping companies look good! I send all my packages large or small, heavy or light via Fed Ex and if it is absolutely required I will ship via UPS(Brown). I like DHL for overseas. All three have automatic $100 insurance included in shipping base price. If you need more, you pay extra for it. I have a TR6 cam that I am using as a towel rack in my GarageMahall, if you need one. But you will have to bear the cost of shipping Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From MGruber921 at aol.com Wed Jan 2 19:48:45 2008 From: MGruber921 at aol.com (MGruber921 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 21:48:45 EST Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam Message-ID: Shipped an Overdrive trans by UPS a couple of years ago. Packaged per UPS instructions. It was delivered busted in three pieces. Some of my engineering whiz's I worked with figured it had to be dropped at least 12 feet to bust the case up like it was. I did insure (not near enough) the trans, still took 3 months and a nasty letter to get a settlement. I try not to use UPS for anything big. I can probably dig you a cam out if you still need one. Marvin Gruber ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 2 20:26:38 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 22:26:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel Message-ID: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad about this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards". Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1206 - Release Date: 1/1/2008 12:09 PM From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 2 20:51:18 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 03:51:18 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> I suspect that a well fitting tranny cover is an oxymoron. The kit from TRF is good quality, the black plastic cover is robust and appears to be well made. TRF has the clips and seals and the bolts and other metalwork. You will exhaust your entire vocabulary of four letter words getting it to fit. There is no provision for access to the tranny oil filler or access to the speedo drive unless you create them. I don't understand the fitting kit part, that is just bolts and washers and clips and rubber gaskets. The challenge seems to be with molding a cover that maps to perhaps a diverse range of floor assemblies. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad about this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards". Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From acekraut11 at aol.com Wed Jan 2 21:01:09 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 02 Jan 2008 23:01:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> The secret to an easy installation is to insert the bolts through the bottom of the car so the bolt sticks up through.? Then you can force the tunnel down over the exposed bolts and slide on a washer and nut from the inside of the car.? Much, much easier than trying to get that damn bolt started from above. Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; triumphs at autox.team.net ; '6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wed, 2 Jan 2008 10:51 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel I suspect that a well fitting tranny cover is an oxymoron. The kit from TRF is good quality, the black plastic cover is robust and appears to be well made. TRF has the clips and seals and the bolts and other metalwork. You will exhaust your entire vocabulary of four letter words getting it to fit. There is no provision for access to the tranny oil filler or access to the speedo drive unless you create them. I don't understand the fitting kit part, that is just bolts and washers and clips and rubber gaskets. The challenge seems to be with molding a cover that maps to perhaps a diverse range of floor assemblies. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 10:27 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad about this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards". Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Jan 3 06:13:57 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 13:13:57 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> Message-ID: Wow, that's a great tip. Does that work well around top of the tranny? Those are the ones that I can never get. Also, use spray interior adhesive to glue the rubber strips to the cover, not the car. This makes the job go much easier too. Sloane :) 69-Six> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel> > The secret to an easy installation is to insert the bolts through the bottom of the car so the bolt sticks up through.? Then you can force the tunnel down over the exposed bolts and slide on a washer and nut from the inside of the car.? Much, much easier than trying to get that damn bolt started from above.> > > > > > Aaron Cropley> 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)> http://www.triumphowners.com/108> 2002 Mini Cooper S> Topsham, Maine> _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Jan 3 06:34:39 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 08:34:39 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> Message-ID: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> Well, I discovered it after I had problems trying to go from the top down.? In a few places it is tight underneath to get the bolt up through but I was able to do it.? I also used stainless so I wouldnt have to worry about rust.? And I did attach the weatherstripping to the tunnel.? The other cool thing is that if you stick the bolts through before you install the gearbox you can reach through the opening while the car is on the ground without having to crawl under the car.? I would also recommend using a lock washer when you tighten the bolt from underneath since once you start tightening from the top after the bolt is in you can loosen the bolt.? And of course use a lock washer and flat washer on top.? I cant recall the length of the bolts I used but they were a bit longer than the stock ones provided in the fitting kit. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: im sloane To: acekraut11 at aol.com; stan.foster at hp.com; 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 8:13 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel Wow, that's a great tip. Does that work well around top of the tranny? Those are the ones that I can never get. Also, use spray interior adhesive to glue the rubber strips to the cover, not the car. This makes the job go much easier too. Sloane :) 69-Six> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel> > The secret to an easy installation is to insert the bolts through the bottom of the car so the bolt sticks up through.? Then you can force the tunnel down over the exposed bolts and slide on a washer and nut from the inside of the car.? Much, much easier than trying to get that damn bolt started from above.> > > > > > Aaron Cropley> 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)> http://www.triumphowners.com/108> 2002 Mini Cooper S> Topsham, Maine> ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Jan 3 06:43:46 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 13:43:46 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE065E6F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Aaron, why don't you just go pop that cover off and measure those bolts for us J Great tip, I'll try it soon when I put my interior back in. One question, when you are done is it obvious when you look inside the cockpit that you have done this because the bolt end and the nut and the washer etc are bigger that what you would normally have with just the bolt head and a washer or does this all get hidden by the carpet ? Stan From: acekraut11 at aol.com [mailto:acekraut11 at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:35 AM To: im_sloane at hotmail.com; Foster, Stan; 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel Well, I discovered it after I had problems trying to go from the top down. In a few places it is tight underneath to get the bolt up through but I was able to do it. I also used stainless so I wouldnt have to worry about rust. And I did attach the weatherstripping to the tunnel. The other cool thing is that if you stick the bolts through before you install the gearbox you can reach through the opening while the car is on the ground without having to crawl under the car. I would also recommend using a lock washer when you tighten the bolt from underneath since once you start tightening from the top after the bolt is in you can loosen the bolt. And of course use a lock washer and flat washer on top. I cant recall the length of the bolts I used but they were a bit longer than the stock ones provided in the fitting kit. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine From acekraut11 at aol.com Thu Jan 3 07:23:15 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 03 Jan 2008 09:23:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE065E6F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE065E6F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8CA1C2B5010E16E-A4C-2BD5@mblk-d22.sysops.aol.com> Stan, I did a test fitting to see how long the bolts needed to be so they stuck up just enough so that I could slip the nut on the bolt without leaving the bolt sticking up too far.B I think I also used a couple different sized bolts since there were a couple places where a little extra length made it easier to install.B And yes, once the jute and carpet were back in place you couldnt see the difference.B The bolts are right next to the tunnel anyways, right where it rises up so they dont stick out where anyone would step on them or otherwise contact them under the carpet unless they were really trying. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: acekraut11 at aol.com ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 8:43 am Subject: RE: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel Aaron, why donbt you just go pop that cover off and measure those bolts for us J B Great tip, Ibll try it soon when I put my interior back in. One question, when you are done is it obvious when you look inside the cockpit that you have done this because the bolt end and the nut and the washer etc are bigger that what you would normally have with just the bolt head and a washer or does this all get hidden by the carpet ? B Stan B B From: acekraut11 at aol.com [mailto:acekraut11 at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, January 03, 2008 8:35 AM To: im_sloane at hotmail.com; Foster, Stan; 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel B Well, I discovered it after I had problems trying to go from the top down.B In a few places it is tight underneath to get the bolt up through but I was able to do it.B I also used stainless so I wouldnt have to worry about rust.B And I did attach the weatherstripping to the tunnel.B The other cool thing is that if you stick the bolts through before you install the gearbox you can reach through the opening while the car is on the ground without having to crawl under the car.B I would also recommend using a lock washer when you tighten the bolt from underneath since once you start tightening from the top after the bolt is in you can loosen the bolt.B And of course use a lock washer and flat washer on top.B I cant recall the length of the bolts I used but they were a bit longer than the stock ones provided in the fitting kit. Aaron B Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine B ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 3 09:51:06 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 08:51:06 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Headers In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE50F5@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <882879.92191.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE50F5@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Michael, Stan: If you are running the late model head and manifold, things are flowing pretty efficiently. You can always get more from a good header, since headers exploit the inertia of a moving column of gas to create a very low pressure at the exhaust valve. This allows the exhaust gases to exit more easily, and gives better filling of the cylinder. But the stock exhaust manifold is pretty darn good in that it is swept down with no sharp turns. Contrast it with the more traditional "log style" cast iron manifold on older US V8s and you can see that the TR engineers did their homework on manifold design. Because of this, it probably makes financial sense to replace the muffler before adding headers. The muffler is the biggest problem in that the exhaust gasses exit through a handful of 1/16" holes. Incredible that the car runs at all with that kind of design. Clearly a case of cost winning out over engineering, and a quick inspection of the inlet pipes on the muffler will make your stomach churn. So, the bottle neck is the muffler. Not the pipes, not the manifold, but the muffler. The problem is finding a GOOD muffler. Lots of "performance" mufflers are actually miserable (but not as bad as the stock muffler) and many of them get way too loud to suit people (the Monza system is the frequent target of noise complaints, for example). A system may in fact be efficient but if you can't stand to drive the car because of noise, it really is a waste of time. In the absence of a flow bench, all I can do is point to the data that I have read, in particular data published by David Vizard (my hero). He builds more motors in a month than we will build in a lifetime, and he backs his claims with hard data. He is a consultant on everything from cams to exhaust systems. He has designed cams for Kent and Crane, for example. The top three mufflers are, according to him (in order): Cyclone Sonic Turbo DynoMax Super Turbo Walker Supreme Super "C" There may be better ones out there, but these are the ones that I have seen data on (admittedly, the data is now more than 10 years old). He has rejected many because they don't flow, and many because they don't muffle. For us, one that flows AND muffles is the hot ticket. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: January 02, 2008 3:58 PM To: michael lunsford; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Headers Re the headers, what I have read is that the standard late exhaust manifold is actually pretty good and the biggest bang for the buck is from replacing the two pipe system for a single larger pipe and especially getting rid of the standard muffler but I'll let Vance express his opinion on the muffler since he does it so well.. Stan From jmcoh at comcast.net Thu Jan 3 20:06:12 2008 From: jmcoh at comcast.net (John Cohen) Date: Thu, 3 Jan 2008 22:06:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel Message-ID: <003001c84e7e$c3593b70$ff04454b@COHEN1> In Roger Williams' book, How To Improve Triumph TR5, 250 & 6, he discusses a two piece fiberglass tunnel cover made by Racetorations. It appears to be well made, easier to install in two pieces and would allow easy access to the speedo, overdrive, oil fill and front u-joint without having to remove and reinstall the whole cover. Has anyone tried one of these? John Cohen Rutland, VT 76 TR6 http://www.triumphowners.com/701 From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Fri Jan 4 05:52:55 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 04:52:55 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Header-Exhaust Message-ID: <835837.7423.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I thought I would summarize the responses I got to my question concerning recommendations for a header, some of which were sent directly to me. First it appears that for regular street applications the late model two down pipe cast iron header is a good cheap way to go. Secondly everyone recommended increasing the size of the exhaust pipe to 2 inches or better. Everyone also recommended getting rid of the stock muffler and going to some type of turbo muffler. As I said these recommendations are more for those who just want to improve the power from a stock or slightly modified engine. If you want big power go for the headers though there are fitting problems with most of them according to how much you are willing to pay. I plan to look at the three mufflers recommended by Vizard and Vance: "The top three mufflers are, according to him (in order): Cyclone Sonic Turbo DynoMax Super Turbo Walker Supreme Super "C" If anyone has any other recommendations for a QUIET turbo muffler I'd like to hear from you. I love the sound of the stock muffler and the Monza sistem is just too loud and droney on trips for me. Mike Lunsford --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Jan 4 08:10:42 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 10:10:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <003001c84e7e$c3593b70$ff04454b@COHEN1> References: <003001c84e7e$c3593b70$ff04454b@COHEN1> Message-ID: And it's a nice design, too, John http://www.racetorations.co.uk/catfglass.html (halfway down the page). But at about $175 (+ shipping), it's a bit steep, no? Ah! It's just money! Using the Racetoration website for a pattern, one could cut-up their present plastic tunnel to match. The fiberglass portion itself looks the same as TRF's. Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: John Cohen Date: Thursday, January 3, 2008 10:04 pm Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel To: triumphs at autox.team.net, 6pack at autox.team.net > In Roger Williams' book, How To Improve Triumph TR5, 250 & 6, he > discusses a > two piece fiberglass tunnel cover made by Racetorations. It > appears to be > well made, easier to install in two pieces and would allow easy > access to > the speedo, overdrive, oil fill and front u-joint without having > to remove > and reinstall the whole cover. Has anyone tried one of these? > > > > John Cohen > > Rutland, VT > > 76 TR6 > > http://www.triumphowners.com/701 > _______________________________________________ From shewfamily at aol.com Fri Jan 4 08:27:49 2008 From: shewfamily at aol.com (shewfamily at aol.com) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 10:27:49 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <8CA1CFD7FE89D48-3F8-99C@WEBMAIL-MA08.sysops.aol.com> Dave, I second Stan's recommendation about the Sears tripod lighting system.? One other point I can add is that the Sears tripod extends much higher than other tripod units I have seen.? I venture to say it will go up another foot to eighteen inches.? This makes a big?difference when working in the interior of the car because you can get the lights up high enough to see much better. John Shewmake '74 TR6 Chattanooga, TN -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: forzion at maine.rr.com ; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 5:11 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Dave, I bought this tripod lamp with two 500w halogen lamp unit from Sears for around $40. The system has adjustable height and the lamp unit detaches for working in areas where the tripod cant go like under the car. It has been perfect for my winter projects. It puts out serious amounts of light and heat, both of which I appreciate this year (Northern MA) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473828000P?keyword=halogen Here is the lamp in action. Apologies in advance for the wrapped URL(s). http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/DSC _0032.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 3:13 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Hello Listers! And a Happy New Year to you all from snowy (again/still) Maine! Does anyone have a good model of tripod worklight to recommend? Something similar to the item shown here (but at a more affordable price) would be good. http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=SL086&cat=2835 I didn't care for the reviews given for the Sears model at: http://snipurl.com/1waoj All inputs appreciated! Cheers! Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as shewfamily at aol.com ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Jan 4 08:32:49 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 15:32:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? In-Reply-To: <8CA1CFD7FE89D48-3F8-99C@WEBMAIL-MA08.sysops.aol.com> References: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1CFD7FE89D48-3F8-99C@WEBMAIL-MA08.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE065FEC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> The one caveat is that the low cost comes at some expense if you get my drift.. there are some plastic parts that are vulnerable to breaking off during shipping, especially the part that locks the tripod legs. The first one I brought home had this part snapped off and rendered the thing useless. I took it back and checked the replacement before I left the store. I think the main vulnerability is during shipping, I don't think it will spontaneously self destruct at home without provocation. I already got my money's worth out of it. Stan From: shewfamily at aol.com [mailto:shewfamily at aol.com] Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 10:28 AM To: Foster, Stan; forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Dave, I second Stan's recommendation about the Sears tripod lighting system. One other point I can add is that the Sears tripod extends much higher than other tripod units I have seen. I venture to say it will go up another foot to eighteen inches. This makes a big difference when working in the interior of the car because you can get the lights up high enough to see much better. John Shewmake '74 TR6 Chattanooga, TN -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan To: forzion at maine.rr.com ; 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>; triumphs at autox.team.net Sent: Tue, 1 Jan 2008 5:11 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Dave, I bought this tripod lamp with two 500w halogen lamp unit from Sears for around $40. The system has adjustable height and the lamp unit detaches for working in areas where the tripod cant go like under the car. It has been perfect for my winter projects. It puts out serious amounts of light and heat, both of which I appreciate this year (Northern MA) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473828000P?keyword=halogen Here is the lamp in action. Apologies in advance for the wrapped URL(s). http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/DSC _0032.jpg Stan From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jan 4 08:57:51 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 07:57:51 -0800 Subject: [6pack] FW: Headers REDUX Message-ID: Michael, Stan: Resending this as it did not seem to make it to the list (too big, I suspect) If you are running the late model head and manifold, things are flowing pretty efficiently. You can always get more from a good header, since headers exploit the inertia of a moving column of gas to create a very low pressure at the exhaust valve. This allows the exhaust gases to exit more easily, and gives better filling of the cylinder. But the stock exhaust manifold is pretty darn good in that it is swept down with no sharp turns. Contrast it with the more traditional "log style" cast iron manifold on older US V8s and you can see that the TR engineers did their homework on manifold design. Because of this, it probably makes financial sense to replace the muffler before adding headers. The muffler is the biggest problem in that the exhaust gasses exit through a handful of 1/16" holes. Incredible that the car runs at all with that kind of design. Clearly a case of cost winning out over engineering, and a quick inspection of the inlet pipes on the muffler will make your stomach churn. So, the bottle neck is the muffler. Not the pipes, not the manifold, but the muffler. The problem is finding a GOOD muffler. Lots of "performance" mufflers are actually miserable (but not as bad as the stock muffler) and many of them get way too loud to suit people (the Monza system is the frequent target of noise complaints, for example). A system may in fact be efficient but if you can't stand to drive the car because of noise, it really is a waste of time. In the absence of a flow bench, all I can do is point to the data that I have read, in particular data published by David Vizard (my hero). He builds more motors in a month than we will build in a lifetime, and he backs his claims with hard data. He is a consultant on everything from cams to exhaust systems. He has designed cams for Kent and Crane, for example. The top three mufflers are, according to him (in order): Cyclone Sonic Turbo DynoMax Super Turbo Walker Supreme Super "C" There may be better ones out there, but these are the ones that I have seen data on (admittedly, the data is now more than 10 years old). He has rejected many because they don't flow, and many because they don't muffle. For us, one that flows AND muffles is the hot ticket. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- Re the headers, what I have read is that the standard late exhaust manifold is actually pretty good and the biggest bang for the buck is from replacing the two pipe system for a single larger pipe and especially getting rid of the standard muffler but I'll let Vance express his opinion on the muffler since he does it so well.. Stan From samuelsma at aol.com Fri Jan 4 09:12:53 2008 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 11:12:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers Message-ID: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> Vance: At what RPM range does the restriction of the stock muffler become noticeable?? Also, do you have any personal experience actually hearing any of the 3 recommended mufflers?? I?would like to avoid the disappointment of creating a custom exhaust and then realizing that one of these recommended mufflers is as loud as the Monza system I had on a previous TR6. Thanks. Michael '76 Tahiti blue ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jan 4 09:30:28 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 08:30:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Michael: The stock muffler is SO bad in terms flow that a guess would be that anything over 3,000 is severely degraded in terms of power. You will not notice any difference at low RPMs as the engine is not pumping out much in the way of exhaust gasses. My experience is limited to the DynoMax Super Turbo, which is a three pass baffled style muffler with no fiberglass packing. On a Chevy 350, it was barely louder (from inside the car) than the stock muffler. Vizard claims that the cyclone sonic Turbo will meet European noise standards in his book "Tuning the A-series Engine". He admits that the muffler is louder than the stock muffler made by Leyland (a different muffler from our TR6, but uses the same internal design for noise control) but says that it is more than adequate in terms of noise level. Remember, however, that overall noise level is heavily influenced by your cam selection and headers. A long period cam will make MUCH more noise than a stock cam, and headers will likewise make more noise than an iron exhaust manifold. BTW, the Leyland design uses restriction to provide the noise control; make the exhaust pass through a limited number of tiny holes to reduce the noise. Interesting that all three of his top rated mufflers use baffling to control the noise, not restriction. In fact, all three of his top rated mufflers are so called "3 pass" designs; the gasses reverse direction twice so that they pass through the muffler a total of 3 times. The internal size of the muffler never drops down below the inlet pipe, however, so there is never a restriction. What little back pressure there is is created only by the gas itself as it reverses direction. Very slick. Cheers, Vance ________________________________ From: samuelsma at aol.com [mailto:samuelsma at aol.com] Sent: January 04, 2008 8:13 AM To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: TR6 mufflers Vance: At what RPM range does the restriction of the stock muffler become noticeable? Also, do you have any personal experience actually hearing any of the 3 recommended mufflers? I would like to avoid the disappointment of creating a custom exhaust and then realizing that one of these recommended mufflers is as loud as the Monza system I had on a previous TR6. Thanks. Michael '76 Tahiti blue From triosan at gmail.com Fri Jan 4 09:48:59 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 08:48:59 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0801040848o1d6cbc36i79a450eef89920a3@mail.gmail.com> At the Dynomax web site they compare the flow of some of there products and also have a "sound" demo [at the Tully's I was sitting at and on the "public" speaker of my PC I could not tell much difference]. There are two different models that fit our cars. The Super Turbo and the Ultraflow. The super turbo is a three pass unrestricted flow muffler that passes 410 cfm [described as "mellow true performance sound]; the Superflow is a straight through [louder I am sure] design that passes 1000cfm ["aggressive, powerful deep sound"]. Then there are the race mufflers for which there are neither flow rates not sound descriptions given. http://www.dynomax.com/products/superturbo.html To the FOT racing community: With efficient headers, what muffler[s] do you recommend/use that provide good scavaging and acceptable DB? On Jan 4, 2008 8:12 AM, wrote: > Vance: > > At what RPM range does the restriction of the stock muffler become > noticeable?? Also, do you have any personal experience actually hearing any > of the 3 recommended mufflers?? I?would like to avoid the disappointment of > creating a custom exhaust and then realizing that one of these recommended > mufflers is as loud as the Monza system I had on a previous TR6. > > Thanks. > > Michael > '76 Tahiti blue > ________________________________________________________________________ > More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - > http://webmail.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From aktifspeed at earthlink.net Fri Jan 4 10:04:34 2008 From: aktifspeed at earthlink.net (Erik) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 12:04:34 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhausts Message-ID: I'm in need of a new exhaust system as well, I've got an old Monza on now which is barley hanging on. I understand we can purchase ANSA exhausts again, (yes, I know they're expensive). Does anyone know how the ANSA system compares to the Monza in terms of sound volume & quality of build? BTW, I am running a header as well right now. Erik S. 1974 TR6 From emanteno at comcast.net Fri Jan 4 10:27:56 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 17:27:56 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhausts Message-ID: <010420081727.28784.477E6C9C00079C4C000070702207002953970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: Erik > I'm in need of a new exhaust system as well, I've got an old Monza on > now which is barley hanging on. I understand we can purchase ANSA > exhausts again, (yes, I know they're expensive). Does anyone know > how the ANSA system compares to the Monza in terms of sound volume & > quality of build? BTW, I am running a header as well right now. The ANSA is supposed to be better built, using better materials and with better welds. It is also supposed to be quieter than the Monza. I hope that's true because I have one that's going on the car this winter. BUT, they are currently out of production and you may have trouble finding one. Last summer at VTR, Kai Radicke had a couple available. Don't know about any of the Big 3. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From dwatson at cet.edu Fri Jan 4 10:50:32 2008 From: dwatson at cet.edu (Watson, Don) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 12:50:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? Message-ID: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu> Triumph TR6 Rear Disc Brake Conversion / brackets only I have completed my TR6 rear disc brake conversion. I had a CNC Machine shop in Columbus, OH cut my caliper brackets out of =" steel. To keep cost down I ordered extra sets hoping that others might want to follow suit and not go through the engineering progress on their own. The brackets were designed on a CAD system, modified through test fittings in aluminum and then CNC out of steel. My design incorporates an e-brake, keeps the spring location, and keeps a gas shock modification with very minor modifications using simple hand tools. The system fit very nice under the swing arm, clearing all obstacles for mounting and arm movement. Only a small quarter size round out is needed for service access to one mounting bolt head. (See pictures attached slide 1) The e-brake cable can be sources from LOKAR. (U cut to fit) Once you have the brackets, you will need to source the disc brake calipers, rotors, misc brake lines and hardware like (12) 2" studs.( to replace stuck studs, too short with the bracket) I don't want to go into the parts business. The brackets are designed for 1987 Nissan Maxima rear disc brake calipers w/hardware w/e-brake, and the rotors are 1984-94 Nissan 240sx. There are other Nissan models that used the same type of caliper like the 200sx, Stanza, 240sx, Maxima, and some 280zx, but be careful as Nissan changed systems all through the model lines. The e-brake cable can be sources from LOKAR. (U cut to fit) If you have modified to a coil over system or don't care about the e-brake, the brackets will rotate and flip around for a top mount towards the rear of the swing arm. (See attached picture slide 2, black is steel version) The bracket set (2 brackets) are priced to cover cost only, priced at $160.00, plus shipping costs (I painted fat black to slow down rust)(I'll include how to Power Point with links to suggested resources) (Also disclaimer) For questions contact dwatson at cet.edu Drive safe, but DRIVE IT! [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Slide1.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Slide2.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of Slide3.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of slide4.jpg] From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Jan 4 11:12:00 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 13:12:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0801040848o1d6cbc36i79a450eef89920a3@mail.gmail.com> References: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> <8cbd782d0801040848o1d6cbc36i79a450eef89920a3@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I've installed the RR1400SS all stainless system from Rimmer Bros. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/triumph/tr6/exhaust#Exhaust%20System% 20(Sports) They refer to it as 'System D' on that webpage. The system includes a 6- into-one stainless header (which I have had JetHot coated wih a chrome finish)and a stainless muffler of the same general size as the stock muffler (mounted in-line, not transverse). All pipes are 2-1/4" OD. Sounds great!! Dave Friedlander '74-Six ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Arnold Date: Friday, January 4, 2008 11:49 am Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 mufflers To: samuelsma at aol.com Cc: Friends , 6pack at autox.team.net > At the Dynomax web site they compare the flow of some of there > products and > also have a "sound" demo [at the Tully's I was sitting at and on the > "public" speaker of my PC I could not tell much difference]. > There are two > different models that fit our cars. The Super Turbo and the > Ultraflow. The > super turbo is a three pass unrestricted flow muffler that passes > 410 cfm > [described as "mellow true performance sound]; the Superflow is a > straightthrough [louder I am sure] design that passes 1000cfm > ["aggressive, powerful > deep sound"]. Then there are the race mufflers for which there > are neither > flow rates not sound descriptions given. > http://www.dynomax.com/products/superturbo.html > > To the FOT racing community: > With efficient headers, what muffler[s] do you recommend/use that > providegood scavaging and acceptable DB? > > On Jan 4, 2008 8:12 AM, wrote: > > > Vance: > > > > At what RPM range does the restriction of the stock muffler become > > noticeable?? Also, do you have any personal experience actually > hearing any > > of the 3 recommended mufflers?? I?would like to avoid the > disappointment of > > creating a custom exhaust and then realizing that one of these > recommended> mufflers is as loud as the Monza system I had on a > previous TR6. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Michael > > '76 Tahiti blue > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - > > http://webmail.aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > > -- > Chuck Arnold From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Fri Jan 4 12:19:31 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 11:19:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <747404.9979.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have this same system and can vouch for it, too. It is a lot more expensive than what Vance describes, however. But if you want get maximum breathing and flow from a modified motor it may be preferable. Jim forzion at maine.rr.com wrote: I've installed the RR1400SS all stainless system from Rimmer Bros. http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/rimmer/triumph/tr6/exhaust#Exhaust%20System% 20(Sports) They refer to it as 'System D' on that webpage. The system includes a 6- into-one stainless header (which I have had JetHot coated wih a chrome finish)and a stainless muffler of the same general size as the stock muffler (mounted in-line, not transverse). All pipes are 2-1/4" OD. Sounds great!! Dave Friedlander '74-Six ----- Original Message ----- From: Chuck Arnold Date: Friday, January 4, 2008 11:49 am Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 mufflers To: samuelsma at aol.com Cc: Friends , 6pack at autox.team.net > At the Dynomax web site they compare the flow of some of there > products and > also have a "sound" demo [at the Tully's I was sitting at and on the > "public" speaker of my PC I could not tell much difference]. > There are two > different models that fit our cars. The Super Turbo and the > Ultraflow. The > super turbo is a three pass unrestricted flow muffler that passes > 410 cfm > [described as "mellow true performance sound]; the Superflow is a > straightthrough [louder I am sure] design that passes 1000cfm > ["aggressive, powerful > deep sound"]. Then there are the race mufflers for which there > are neither > flow rates not sound descriptions given. > http://www.dynomax.com/products/superturbo.html > > To the FOT racing community: > With efficient headers, what muffler[s] do you recommend/use that > providegood scavaging and acceptable DB? > > On Jan 4, 2008 8:12 AM, wrote: > > > Vance: > > > > At what RPM range does the restriction of the stock muffler become > > noticeable?? Also, do you have any personal experience actually > hearing any > > of the 3 recommended mufflers?? I?would like to avoid the > disappointment of > > creating a custom exhaust and then realizing that one of these > recommended> mufflers is as loud as the Monza system I had on a > previous TR6. > > > > Thanks. > > > > Michael > > '76 Tahiti blue > > > ________________________________________________________________________ > More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - > > http://webmail.aol.com > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > > > -- > Chuck Arnold 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 4 12:39:26 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:39:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA1D03CB4FF259-F5C-DF7@webmail-db06.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 samuelsma at aol.com wrote: > Vance: I'm not Vance and I don't play him on TV... BUT: > At what RPM range does the restriction of the stock muffler become > noticeable?? Also, do you have any personal experience actually hearing > any of the 3 recommended mufflers?? I?would like to avoid the > disappointment of creating a custom exhaust and then realizing that one > of these recommended mufflers is as loud as the Monza system I had on a > previous TR6. I have a turbo style muffler on my race car. I run autocross and we have strict sound regs in our region (93 dba at 75 feet). I have driven past the sound meter at full wide open throttle and I barely make 85. The neat thing about a turbo muffler is that they are quiet at small throttle openings and at wider throttle the sound is nowhere near as "sharp" or "harsh" as the Monza. I'm def. putting a setup like this on the street car in the near future. > Thanks. > > Michael > '76 Tahiti blue regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From rclark at robertsonclark.com Fri Jan 4 12:59:06 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 11:59:06 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: What is the current thinking on glass packs. When I was a little more than half my current age and a college student, I put this giant glass pack on my '71. I recall that it had a 2 inch diameter inlet and was about two feet long. I know it wasn't a cherry bomb and as I recall it wasn't outrageously loud although I am not sure a kid that age is the best judge of reasonableness. Bob Clark '69 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+rclark=robertsonclark.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+rclark=robertsonclark.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 11:39 AM To: samuelsma at aol.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 mufflers On Fri, 4 Jan 2008 samuelsma at aol.com wrote: > Vance: I'm not Vance and I don't play him on TV... BUT: > At what RPM range does the restriction of the stock muffler become > noticeable?? Also, do you have any personal experience actually hearing > any of the 3 recommended mufflers?? I?would like to avoid the > disappointment of creating a custom exhaust and then realizing that one > of these recommended mufflers is as loud as the Monza system I had on a > previous TR6. I have a turbo style muffler on my race car. I run autocross and we have strict sound regs in our region (93 dba at 75 feet). I have driven past the sound meter at full wide open throttle and I barely make 85. The neat thing about a turbo muffler is that they are quiet at small throttle openings and at wider throttle the sound is nowhere near as "sharp" or "harsh" as the Monza. I'm def. putting a setup like this on the street car in the near future. > Thanks. > > Michael > '76 Tahiti blue regards, rml ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --- You are subscribed as rclark at robertsonclark.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 4 13:52:11 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 15:52:11 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, Most of the glasspacks that I've looked at have a couple things working against them. First - the dimples usually extend into the gas path. That means restriction. Second, most of them "neck down" internally restricting the air flow. "Good" turbo mufflers don't do this, so they flow better. Glasspacks were "the balls" back in the day because they were cheap and they met the min. requirement of a muffler. The current turbo-style mufflers flow great and are pretty inexpensive (figure $40 to $60 for name-brand mufflers, up to 20% less for "house brands" (like summit racing). In our case, it's worth spending a bit more to get the quality that some name-brand pieces offer. If you search around, you can even find cheap turbo mufflers in stainless so they won't rust out. How kool is that? rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jan 4 14:14:19 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 13:14:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Bob: I used glass packs in high school. My big objection to them was that the fiberglass packing eventually loads up with carbon, and then they get LOUD. As David Vizard also mentions, many of them flow surprisingly poorly because of the steel dimples that protrude into the gas stream. Often these are wedge shaped such that you can increase the flow by simply reversing the muffler during installation. The better glass pack designs have the dimples protrude into the fiberglass packing rather than protruding into the gas stream. These flow very well, but they are noticeably louder. Sooner or later they *ALL* get loud no matter what. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert N. Clark Sent: January 04, 2008 11:59 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 mufflers What is the current thinking on glass packs. When I was a little more than half my current age and a college student, I put this giant glass pack on my '71. I recall that it had a 2 inch diameter inlet and was about two feet long. I know it wasn't a cherry bomb and as I recall it wasn't outrageously loud although I am not sure a kid that age is the best judge of reasonableness. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From rclark at robertsonclark.com Fri Jan 4 14:37:29 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 13:37:29 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 mufflers In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Vance & Bob, Thanks for the input on that subject. I'll file it away for when the time comes to replace my system. Bob Clark '69 TR6 Most of the glasspacks that I've looked at have a couple things working against them. First - the dimples usually extend into the gas path. That means restriction. Second, most of them "neck down" internally restricting the air flow. "Good" turbo mufflers don't do this, so they flow better. Glasspacks were "the balls" back in the day because they were cheap and they met the min. requirement of a muffler. The current turbo-style mufflers flow great and are pretty inexpensive (figure $40 to $60 for name-brand mufflers, up to 20% less for "house brands" (like summit racing). In our case, it's worth spending a bit more to get the quality that some name-brand pieces offer. If you search around, you can even find cheap turbo mufflers in stainless so they won't rust out. How kool is that? rml ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 ------------------------------------------------------------------------ --- From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Fri Jan 4 15:16:23 2008 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 14:16:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] compression Message-ID: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> just had the head rebuilt on my 76 tr6 and the compression reads 95 lbs is that too low ,can't get it to idle at all .rebuilt the carbs and the dist any sugestions --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 4 15:49:29 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 17:49:29 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] compression In-Reply-To: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, Are you sure the valve lash is set properly? Did you touch the cam? Can you do a leak-down test? Are you sure the rings are okay? Did you do a wet compression test? 95 is def. low, but without knowing the state of the engine prior to the headwork, everything else is just a guess. A leakdown will point to the prob. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From KingR44916 at aol.com Fri Jan 4 16:04:43 2008 From: KingR44916 at aol.com (KingR44916 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 18:04:43 EST Subject: [6pack] compression Message-ID: not sure what a wet compression test is In a message dated 1/4/2008 5:49:59 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, lang at isis.mit.edu writes: Hi, Are you sure the valve lash is set properly? Did you touch the cam? Can you do a leak-down test? Are you sure the rings are okay? Did you do a wet compression test? 95 is def. low, but without knowing the state of the engine prior to the headwork, everything else is just a guess. A leakdown will point to the prob. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as kingr44916 at aol.com **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Jan 4 16:08:04 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 23:08:04 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Latest News on Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <060301c84f26$a9a58e10$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hi, Listers At long last we appear to have a route mapped out for the Great Triumph Odyssey in 2009 which you'll find by clicking here www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk. We've also got a pattern of the rallyboard as well to whet the appetites of those who may want to take part? Click on ROUTE when you reach the site home page. There's a lot more info to impart about the route itself and I hope to be adding this in the next 48 hours or so. I hope you'll forgive me if that deadline slips a bit - 'cos I'm a bit tense this weekend. Reason is my first grandson is due by Monday and everything is a bit "adjacent" if you get my meaning? Cheers, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Jan 4 16:13:27 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 15:13:27 -0800 Subject: [6pack] compression In-Reply-To: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John: That is low, but *perhaps* not outrageously low depending on whether the head has been shaved and what kind of cam you have in the motor. If the head and cam are stock, then I would expect 105 to 110 PSI, with all cylinders within 10PSI of that number. So you can see that your head is low, kinda borderline. Let me ask you a few questions: What is the highest reading? What is the lowest reading? And what is the average? Is the head shaved and how much? Is the cam stock and what is the valve timing? Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john doe Sent: January 04, 2008 2:16 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] compression just had the head rebuilt on my 76 tr6 and the compression reads 95 lbs is that too low ,can't get it to idle at all .rebuilt the carbs and the dist any sugestions From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Fri Jan 4 16:49:44 2008 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 18:49:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhausts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <001c01c84f2c$7c37dbd0$74a79370$@net> Erik, Like shopping for audio speakers, everyone has their preferences and there are many choices. So really the best way to decide is try to listen, either through files sent to you or in person. Although the ANSA system for my 250 is slightly different than the two pipe system I've heard both and they sound very similar. I've also heard Monza as well as other names long since gone and none have made an impression on me as much as the ANSAs. And I still have my original ANSAs that were on the car for 30 years and 50,000 miles of driving before it went into 'hibernation' in 1982. There are no rusted through pinholes and the chrome tips still shine. I plan to put these back on to see how they sound after all of these years. Needless to say, as part of my restoration I HAD to find a NOS single pipe ANSA system (the one with the straight cut tips, not angled like what is available now only for two pipe exhaust). On that note I am sure the two pipe system can be converted for a single pipe but have not heard of any so can't speak to that as fact. Once I put ANSAs on my 250 in the late 70s it seemed to transform the car. The exhaust note is distinctive without being loud - deep, throaty and refined (think Ferrari). The radio simply became an intrusion to that wonderful new exhaust note as I would go through the gears, no matter if accelerating or downshifting. Hopefully I'll be hearing that sound again this summer once the restoration is finished! Good luck in your search. Greg Dito CD6250L Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 exhausts I'm in need of a new exhaust system as well, ... Does anyone know how the ANSA system compares to the Monza in terms of sound volume & quality of build? From trsix74 at comcast.net Fri Jan 4 17:29:24 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 19:29:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] compression In-Reply-To: References: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000101c84f32$069a8c50$6601a8c0@Robert> Snip - not sure what a wet compression test is That's when you lick your fingers and hit them with a hammer. If you hear "Ouch", you know it works! Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From ms6453 at optonline.net Fri Jan 4 17:44:56 2008 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 19:44:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] compression In-Reply-To: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <477ED308.7030809@optonline.net> Make sure the throttle is wide open when you do the test, this also affects the reading. Did you take the readings before the head was redone? If the reading is low in all cylinders (with in 10psi of each other) I would lead toward either incorrect testing or possibly a bad gauge. You should get 110 or better. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 17:46:22 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 19:46:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? Message-ID: <001901c84f34$665b43d0$210110ac@bobspc> Don sent me pictures of his TR6 Rear disc conversion and it's so nice looking that I posted it on my web site. You can see it here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/don_watson.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From rclark at robertsonclark.com Fri Jan 4 18:10:46 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 17:10:46 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu> Message-ID: Don, After reviewing the pictures posted on Bob Danielson's web site, a couple of questions come to mind: Does the thickness of the mounting bracket and the portion of the rotor attached over the stock hub affect the suspension geometry and/or the action of the sliding half shafts? Any problems with tire clearance? Bob Clark '69 TR6 Triumph TR6 Rear Disc Brake Conversion / brackets only I have completed my TR6 rear disc brake conversion. I had a CNC Machine shop in Columbus, OH cut my caliper brackets out of =" steel. To keep cost down I ordered extra sets hoping that others might want to follow suit and not go through the engineering progress on their own. The brackets were designed on a CAD system, modified through test fittings in aluminum and then CNC out of steel. My design incorporates an e-brake, keeps the spring location, and keeps a gas shock modification with very minor modifications using simple hand tools. The system fit very nice under the swing arm, clearing all obstacles for mounting and arm movement. Only a small quarter size round out is needed for service access to one mounting bolt head. (See pictures attached slide 1) The e-brake cable can be sources from LOKAR. (U cut to fit) Once you have the brackets, you will need to source the disc brake calipers, rotors, misc brake lines and hardware like (12) 2" studs.( to replace stuck studs, too short with the bracket) I don't want to go into the parts business. The brackets are designed for 1987 Nissan Maxima rear disc brake calipers w/hardware w/e-brake, and the rotors are 1984-94 Nissan 240sx. There are other Nissan models that used the same type of caliper like the 200sx, Stanza, 240sx, Maxima, and some 280zx, but be careful as Nissan changed systems all through the model lines. The e-brake cable can be sources from LOKAR. (U cut to fit) If you have modified to a coil over system or don't care about the e-brake, the brackets will rotate and flip around for a top mount towards the rear of the swing arm. (See attached picture slide 2, black is steel version) The bracket set (2 brackets) are priced to cover cost only, priced at $160.00, plus shipping costs (I painted fat black to slow down rust)(I'll include how to Power Point with links to suggested resources) (Also disclaimer) For questions contact dwatson at cet.edu From trguy at cfl.rr.com Fri Jan 4 18:14:25 2008 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 20:14:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Service Schedules on Ebay Message-ID: <20080105011420.CZXI16228.cdptpa-omta01.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> Listers: The TR6 original service schedules on ebay (item #200188287485) seem to be selling for an outrageous amount. I would love to have a copy of these for servicing my 6. Does anyone have scans of these that they would be willing to share with a fellow TR6 afficinado? Are they on any of the CDs that are for sale that include all the literature. Many thanks, Jim henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 18:56:04 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 20:56:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <477A9EDC.7090601@maine.rr.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FF1@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002a01c84f3e$24bc8380$210110ac@bobspc> Dave, I was in Sears tonight and saw this light set up and can see how the plastic piece could break but it could only happen through serious mis-use by the user, The plastic latch is quite sturdy and is spring loaded with a metal pin that engages the holes in the inner column. If you try and release the latch WITHOUT taking the weight off of the locking pin, you could break it but it wouldn't be easy. The warning label states that you have to relieve the pressure on the locking pin by lifting the support before unlatching it..........or words to that effect. I wouldn't hesitate to buy it now that I've seen the construction and how it works. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 6:12 PM To: forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Dave, I bought this tripod lamp with two 500w halogen lamp unit from Sears for around $40. The system has adjustable height and the lamp unit detaches for working in areas where the tripod cant go like under the car. It has been perfect for my winter projects. It puts out serious amounts of light and heat, both of which I appreciate this year (Northern MA) http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_03473828000P?keyword=halogen Here is the lamp in action. Apologies in advance for the wrapped URL(s). http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/DS C _0032.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Tuesday, January 01, 2008 3:13 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Tripod worklight recommendation(s)? Hello Listers! And a Happy New Year to you all from snowy (again/still) Maine! Does anyone have a good model of tripod worklight to recommend? Something similar to the item shown here (but at a more affordable price) would be good. http://www.galls.com/style.html?assort=general_catalog&style=SL086&cat=2835 I didn't care for the reviews given for the Sears model at: http://snipurl.com/1waoj All inputs appreciated! Cheers! Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1205 - Release Date: 12/31/2007 3:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Jan 4 19:21:06 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 02:21:06 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Compression ratio calculation (Was Headers) In-Reply-To: <882879.92191.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <882879.92191.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066122@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> The TR6 compression ratio was gradually reduced over the years from 9.5:1 (UK PI) to 7.5:1 in 1974 (US version). I realize that there was a change in head at least once during that time but was all of the compression ratio variation achieved via milling the head to a desired thickness ?. Do we have head thickness data for the various years and in particular my immediate question is regarding the thickness of the standard 1974.5 circle B head. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of michael lunsford Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 6:48 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Headers Can someone out there refresh my memory about the best headers to buy for a late model head (2 pipe exhaust). I seem to recall that a lot of people were unhappy with the fit and durability of the Monza headers. I have an early 6 (1970) with a late model head and would like a few more HP (doesn't everyone). Also, can someone also refresh my memory, or what little I have lert, about compression ratios. I thought that since I installed .020 over pistons the compression ratio would go down (more volume). Someone said it worked the opposite way (bigger pistons-comp ratio goes up). Which one is right? TIA. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6, Goodparts S-2 cam, 9.8/1 compression From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 4 19:28:41 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 21:28:41 EST Subject: [6pack] compression Message-ID: The odds of you getting 95 lbs in all cylinders is not realistic. If this is what is happening, get a new gauge. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 4 19:30:58 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 21:30:58 EST Subject: [6pack] Service Schedules on Ebay Message-ID: I am pretty sure you can get that information from Bentley David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Jan 4 19:48:50 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 21:48:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu> Message-ID: <001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> The setup on my TR6 is very similar to the one Don came up with. I've had mine for two years of actual use. When I built mine, I had the original steel wheels mounted. The calipers do not work with the stock wheels. The calipers will rub the inside rim. So, aftermarket will be required. As far as the geometry, I don't think you should have any issues with that. In my setup, the mounting plates are not as thick, and I do not have to use different studs. I also have my calipers mounted on the top rather than on the bottom. I would highly think about the 'bottom' mount because that is in the way of dust, water, and this could prevent the pads from proper operation. Just something to think about. You can see more about my setup here: http://www.bowtie6.com/tr6_pics/brakes/Gallery1/index.html BTW: I have over 6000 miles on my brake setup with no problems. Seriously, this is the only way to go. Also, the use of a proportioning valve is highly recommended in order to get the bias dialed in properly. Guys, this is not a 5 minute conversion. It will require some careful thought and most of all: it cannot be done 'on the cheap'. Certainly worth every penny though. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Jan 4 19:59:16 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 04 Jan 2008 19:59:16 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu> <001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> Message-ID: <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> Joseph Grant wrote: > The setup on my TR6 is very similar to the one Don came up with. I've had > mine for two years of actual use. > > You can see more about my setup here: > http://www.bowtie6.com/tr6_pics/brakes/Gallery1/index.html > > > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ > Joe, Please, Do tell us all about that differential and axles conversion! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Jan 4 20:17:00 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 22:17:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu> <001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <000001c84f49$702ddd40$508997c0$@com> Sure. I used a Nissan R200 Longnose - this is NOT the one that Richard Good sells. Mine came from a donor 280ZX and has the more desirable 3.90 to 1 ratio. It is however, not limited slip but to tell you the truth I don4t really miss it. It runs admirably well the way it is. The diff is mounted on a custom made 4carrier4. This carrier also supports the true coilovers for the rear suspension - they are true coilovers in the sense that they are not a conventional shock inside separate from the spring assembly. Mine are all self contained and adjustable for rebound. I have them valved and filled with a damper fluid that compliments the 'squatting' properties of the TR6. They are very nice and dampen the squatting without making them harsh. They are truly fantastic. The halfshafts are a hybrid design. I was not pleased with the splined setup of the TR6. The Nissan halfshafts have ball bearings and will not bind. In my setup, the inside part is all Nissan, with the outside bearings still TR6. This enabled me to rebuild the hubs. Prior to installation they were properly tested for any defects. You can read more about the rear suspension setup on my website. You can see about it here: http://www.bowtie6.com/rear_suspension.htm - there are several picture galleries so make sure you look around! There is also information on the front brakes - they are Wilwood - as well as the rest of bowtie6. In my brake setup, there is not tire rub or wheel rub. Like I mentioned previously, there is some issues with the original stock wheels. One thing about this setup is that the studs on the trailing arms MUST be pristine and in excellent shape. My trailing arms were in great shape and this setup has been highly reliable. Bowtie6 stops as good as it runs. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From 6parts at charter.net Fri Jan 4 20:32:11 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 22:32:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] compression References: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <477ED308.7030809@optonline.net> Message-ID: <011501c84f4b$8f422f40$03d30c47@alan> I've been having a problem for awhile in that the car has been using a quart of oil with every other tank of gas. I did a compression check and the readings were 145-140-130-130-130-145. I just noticed that the spin on oil filter was a bit small and changed that to the correct size. Oil was being pushed out the oil pan gasket, even after changing the gasket. The car only smokes when when I gear down and accelerate; and part of that may be beacause its running too rich. For the amount of oil its using, I would think it would smoke quite a bit more. How bad are these compression readings? Thanks Al From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 20:37:40 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 22:37:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> Glenn.......... Spend some time going through Joe's web site and you'll be awestruck by the stuff he has done! It doesnt matter whether you love or hate these kind of conversions..... you have to love the execution and the quality of the work on his car. It's one of the best, if not the best, thought out conversion that I've seen. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn A. Merrell Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 9:59 PM To: Joseph Grant Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? Joseph Grant wrote: > The setup on my TR6 is very similar to the one Don came up with. I've > had mine for two years of actual use. > > You can see more about my setup here: > http://www.bowtie6.com/tr6_pics/brakes/Gallery1/index.html > > > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ > Joe, Please, Do tell us all about that differential and axles conversion! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Jan 4 20:51:53 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 22:51:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000401c84f4e$4f95cd40$eec167c0$@com> Thank you there Bob. Appreciate the comment. As far as the love/hate relationship, I contend all TR6's out there are 'converted' in one way or another. I just took it to the next logical step and made it 100% dependable. Plus, it has the kind of pop that others just dream of... :) Seriously, it is a hoot to drive! Regards... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Friday, January 04, 2008 22:38 To: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org; 'Joseph Grant' Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? Glenn.......... Spend some time going through Joe's web site and you'll be awestruck by the stuff he has done! It doesn't matter whether you love or hate these kind of conversions..... you have to love the execution and the quality of the work on his car. It's one of the best, if not the best, thought out conversion that I've seen. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Fri Jan 4 21:02:30 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Fri, 4 Jan 2008 23:02:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Oberg Follow Up Message-ID: <004801c84f4f$cccee160$210110ac@bobspc> Thanks to everyone for all the suggestions on using the Oberg Tilt Sling. It was 8 degrees yesterday morning at 8:30 AM and my friend Al was due at 10 AM to help me pull the engine and tranny. My 55K BTU kerosene heater got the garage real comfy (45 - 50 degrees) by the time he arrived, so temperature wasn't a problem. The Oberg made the job so easy. Al has pulled quite a few engines going back to his drag racing days and he said he'll never pull another engine without the Oberg. That's how easy it was. The two best tips I got from the List was: Use a breaker bar for making the Oberg adjustments and use wood blocks to protect the valve cover and/or valve train. The breaker bar gives you the extra leverage you need to counteract the weight of the engine.........not a big deal. The wood blocks at the lifting eyes eliminated any damage to the valve cover by the cables. And yes........the front lifting eye did bend in slightly. I'll straighten it out after re-installing everything. No web site update yet.......maybe over the weekend I'll find time. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1208 - Release Date: 1/3/2008 3:52 PM From saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk Sat Jan 5 00:02:16 2008 From: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk (Derek) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 07:02:16 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation Message-ID: <000401c84f68$e8441c30$8c34454f@TR6> Stan, Have sent you a seperate email attaching a spreadsheet which details the various heads fitted to the six cylinder range. According to the spreadsheet the standard head fitted to the 74.5 is the "219019" and it is 3.5" thick. The 219019 number is stamped onto the top face of the head on the manifold side at the front of the engine. Hope that this helps. Derek Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 02:21:06 +0000 From: "Foster, Stan" Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression ratio calculation (Was Headers) To: "6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066122 at G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" The TR6 compression ratio was gradually reduced over the years from 9.5:1 (UK PI) to 7.5:1 in 1974 (US version). I realize that there was a change in head at least once during that time but was all of the compression ratio variation achieved via milling the head to a desired thickness ?. Do we have head thickness data for the various years and in particular my immediate question is regarding the thickness of the standard 1974.5 circle B head. Stan From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 5 06:10:20 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 08:10:20 EST Subject: [6pack] compression Message-ID: Al, IMHO I would not rebuild the motor because of those numbers, however, what is the reading with a wet compression test and are you testing a warm motor with throttle open? How badly does your car "mark" the floor when it is parked? You could do a leakdown test as well. I am guessing that you are using a quart every 600 miles or so and I would bet that you have a lot of company there with cars that remain parked for most of the time and driven occasionally, but as I recall yours is a daily driver, yes? If you continue to blow oil out of the sump gasket even after changing it I would investigate why you have excess positive pressure in the crank case. Even if you were to have rings worn a little the crankcase vent should relieve excess pressure. Do you have a performance cam, etc.? Just my 2 Euros worth. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sat Jan 5 06:12:14 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 05:12:14 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Compression and head thickness Message-ID: <894800.28524.qm@web51401.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Stan Foster sent me this link to Richard Good's web site which deals with both changes in compression relating to increased bore size and to compression variations due to head thickness. I don't think it specifically addresses the head thickness as it relates to the year of manufacture but it should be easy to correlate by measuring the thickness of the head on your car. Good luck and thanks to Stan and Richard Good for this research. http://www.goodparts.com/tech_docs/TR6_Compression_Ratio.html Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 TBI --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From trguy at cfl.rr.com Sat Jan 5 07:22:35 2008 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 09:22:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust Message-ID: <20080105142231.WAIW2942.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> Mike and others: I am running a kingborne 6-3-1 stainless header into a single 2 < inch custom pipe exhaust with a short dynamax turbo muffer. It all runs down the passenger side for a clean straight exit and better weight distribution when driving alone :-) I had the system built at a local muffler shop with a reputation for making great custom exhausts on hot rods. The system includes custom brackets that I can unscrew so the exhaust system can be taken apart easily. No welding! It sounds great without being too loud and the muffler is known for great flow. I can easily swap out the rear muffler section with a straight pipe when desired. I went with a single pipe system based on performance numbers from J.K. Jackson. FYI  My latest engine is a 68 TR250 motor that has been heavily modified. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 5 08:17:10 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 15:17:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <20080105142231.WAIW2942.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> References: <20080105142231.WAIW2942.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066136@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Based on what I am reading here there is some demand for a TR6 system that flows well, sounds appropriate for a street car driven on long trips (ie doesn't require you to wear ear plugs), wont rust and can be put together with a good off the shelf header and doesn't cost $2000. It seems this can be done if you have the time and the resources and someone local that can fabricate the missing bits (ie another Project) but if you want to buy something as a system it is either going to be too loud (Monza) or too inefficient (standard TR6) or too expensive for now (Rimmer). Assuming you have a header and you have a SS muffler how difficult is it to find someone that can fabricate the intermediate bits (pipe, brackets, hangers) in SS ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:23 AM To: 'michael lunsford'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 exhaust Mike and others: I am running a kingborne 6-3-1 stainless header into a single 2 < inch custom pipe exhaust with a short dynamax turbo muffer. It all runs down the passenger side for a clean straight exit and better weight distribution when driving alone :-) I had the system built at a local muffler shop with a reputation for making great custom exhausts on hot rods. The system includes custom brackets that I can unscrew so the exhaust system can be taken apart easily. No welding! It sounds great without being too loud and the muffler is known for great flow. I can easily swap out the rear muffler section with a straight pipe when desired. I went with a single pipe system based on performance numbers from J.K. Jackson. FYI  My latest engine is a 68 TR250 motor that has been heavily modified. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 _______________________________________________ From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 5 08:36:18 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 15:36:18 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation In-Reply-To: <000401c84f68$e8441c30$8c34454f@TR6> References: <000401c84f68$e8441c30$8c34454f@TR6> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE06613A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Thanks Derek, that is quite a formidable spreadsheet !. And that thickness is consistent with Roger Williams who says in both TR6 books that the US head will need about .080 removed to bring the compression back up to 9.5:1 According to Richard (zero decked, standard pistons) 3.5 - 3.416 = .084 for 9.5:1 CR Less than I was expecting. Vance once told me he had .120 removed from his 74.5 for a target CR of 9.6:1 but he did not totally zero deck the block but left it .010 above the pistons so I guess that would account for some of the difference between .084 and .120 (the more volume between the piston and the top of the block, the more you have to remove from the head to get the same CR ?) Stan From: Derek [mailto:saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 2:02 AM To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack (6pack) Subject: Compression Ratio Calculation Stan, Have sent you a seperate email attaching a spreadsheet which details the various heads fitted to the six cylinder range. According to the spreadsheet the standard head fitted to the 74.5 is the "219019" and it is 3.5" thick. The 219019 number is stamped onto the top face of the head on the manifold side at the front of the engine. Hope that this helps. Derek From rgperry at earthlink.net Sat Jan 5 08:42:46 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 09:42:46 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [6pack] compression Message-ID: <15581821.1199547766559.JavaMail.root@elwamui-huard.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Al, I found a solution that worked for me over the years of trying to stop the front timing cover seal and oil pan oil leaks on my TR6. The oil was even coming out of the dip stick tube before I figured out the cause of the problem. The solution was to clean the gauze/ filter material in the valve cover for the crankcase ventilation system. The vent was restricted causing the crankcase pressure to build up pushing the oil out of the crankcase. To check for restriction just blow through the vent tube with the oil filler cap off. There should be no restriction at all. If you feel any restriction clean the filter material! I now only have two 1 inch oil spots on the cardboard that are caused by the rear main seal and the rear oil gallery plug leaking. The oil consumption dropped considerably. It is worth a try. Regards, Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >I've been having a problem for awhile in that the car has been using a quart >of oil with every other tank of gas. >Thanks > >Al From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Jan 5 08:47:33 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 10:47:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] compression In-Reply-To: <15581821.1199547766559.JavaMail.root@elwamui-huard.atl.sa.earthlink.net> References: <15581821.1199547766559.JavaMail.root@elwamui-huard.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <000d01c84fb2$49f20570$6601a8c0@Robert> If you have that external Oiler for the rockers, that will also increase the oil consumption, as it sprays the oil over the guides, causing a larger amount of oil to be forced though the guides and out the exhaust. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From 6parts at charter.net Sat Jan 5 08:56:03 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 10:56:03 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fw: compression Message-ID: <005001c84fb3$7a1d9b00$03d30c47@alan> Subject: Re: [6pack] compression Hi guys Yep , its still a daily driver, although now I carry equal parts of oil and gas. When I tested it the motor was slightly warm. Meaning i torqued down the head bolts before I ran the test. I found that i had some bolts tht weren't torque enough. My fault, they were the ones that held the AC compressor, and I was the one that played with them b/4. Actually, when I finished torquing the head and refitting the rockers, I ran the motor till the temp guage got half way warm. Then throttles were fully open when I ran the compression test. There is no external oiler. The car is causing quite a bit more little spots on the floor than in the past. And these are spots , not patches. I replaced the cam in 2002, but its still a stock cam. What is a leakdown test or wet compression test? whats involved with that. Thanks Al From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sat Jan 5 08:55:56 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 08:55:56 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust Message-ID: <477FAA65@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From "Foster, Stan" ===== >Based on what I am reading here there is some demand for a TR6 system that >flows well, sounds appropriate for a street car driven on long trips (ie >doesn't require you to wear ear plugs), wont rust and can be put together with >a good off the shelf header and doesn't cost $2000. > >It seems this can be done if you have the time and the resources and someone >local that can fabricate the missing bits (ie another Project) but if you want >to buy something as a system it is either going to be too loud (Monza) or too >inefficient (standard TR6) or too expensive for now (Rimmer). I ran the Stainless Twin Sports system available through Moss Motors http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32838 with my old stock (internal) engine and still use it with my modified tri-carb engine. So I have used it with both the dual downpipe manifold and a Group 44 style header. It seems to flow very well and the sound is excellent. Not near as loud as a Monza system, plus instead of 'droning' at highway rpm's the sound level actually drops down and is pretty quiet. When used with the header and modified engine, everything got louder but it still quiets down to acceptable levels when cruising. Part of my reason for this system was aesthetics. I like the two big pipes sticking out the back end. Some like four, thats all personal preference. The larger single pipe performance systems do show a slight (approximately 8 horspower) advantage over the twin pipe systems. However, that advantage is only seen above 5,000 RPM. While my engine does pull strong above 5,000 RPM (dyno showed the horsepower peak at about 5,750 RPM), I don't spend enough time above 5,000 RPM to miss that slight increase in power. If my car saw a lot more track time (any at this point) that might change as every little bit can help. There's another opinion for the pile... Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Jan 5 08:54:09 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 15:54:09 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066136@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <20080105142231.WAIW2942.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066136@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <826803409-1199548572-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1670707015-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Stan, Can't speak for all but I imagine that the pipe sourcing, bending and cutting can be done locally at a qualified muffler shop. Ditto the brackets or hangers. The whole thing can be clamped together with SS clamps. To me the challange would be getting the 2 pipe down pipe splitter made in 2" that would seal to the manifold. If that can be provided then, I would think it wouldn't be too tough even here in AL. All you would need is the few components and some drawings on the routing (for beding) and simple intructions. What do you have in mind? Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Foster, Stan" Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 15:17:10 To:"6pack at autox.team.net" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 exhaust Based on what I am reading here there is some demand for a TR6 system that flows well, sounds appropriate for a street car driven on long trips (ie doesn't require you to wear ear plugs), wont rust and can be put together with a good off the shelf header and doesn't cost $2000. It seems this can be done if you have the time and the resources and someone local that can fabricate the missing bits (ie another Project) but if you want to buy something as a system it is either going to be too loud (Monza) or too inefficient (standard TR6) or too expensive for now (Rimmer). Assuming you have a header and you have a SS muffler how difficult is it to find someone that can fabricate the intermediate bits (pipe, brackets, hangers) in SS ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of James Henningsen Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 9:23 AM To: 'michael lunsford'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 exhaust Mike and others: I am running a kingborne 6-3-1 stainless header into a single 2 < inch custom pipe exhaust with a short dynamax turbo muffer. It all runs down the passenger side for a clean straight exit and better weight distribution when driving alone :-) I had the system built at a local muffler shop with a reputation for making great custom exhausts on hot rods. The system includes custom brackets that I can unscrew so the exhaust system can be taken apart easily. No welding! It sounds great without being too loud and the muffler is known for great flow. I can easily swap out the rear muffler section with a straight pipe when desired. I went with a single pipe system based on performance numbers from J.K. Jackson. FYI  My latest engine is a 68 TR250 motor that has been heavily modified. Jim Henningsen Maitland, FL 75 TR6 _______________________________________________ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sat Jan 5 09:21:33 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 09:21:33 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation Message-ID: <477FBECB@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From "Foster, Stan" ===== >Thanks Derek, that is quite a formidable spreadsheet !. > >And that thickness is consistent with Roger Williams who says in both TR6 >books that the US head will need about .080 removed to bring the compression >back up to 9.5:1 > >According to Richard (zero decked, standard pistons) 3.5 - 3.416 = .084 for >9.5:1 CR > >Less than I was expecting. The best/most mechanically efficient method for increasing compression is to begine with a zero deck height. That way more of the combustion chamber shape can be saved. When you keep shrinking that chamber shape you completely change the burn characteristics. On race engines the pistons will actually stand proud of the blocks deck to maintain as much of the chamber as possible before cutting the head down. My pistons stand proud of the block by .013". I was originally looking for zero deck clearance but my machinist (who buildd primarily circle track motors) went a little too far. Luckily, the compressed thickness of the head gasket is still enough to not cause any problems. Though Richard Good did tell me to be carefull of rod stretch with the stock rods above 6,000RPM. He grenaded an engine once where the pistons had about that same clearance as mine. He missed a shift and there was a short burst close to 6,300RPM. It was enough for the stock rods to stretch and close the distance bewteen piston head and valve. OUCH! That is quite a good argument for a rev limiter. The downside to a zero deck clearance is that there is a little more money involved, but if you are totally rebuilding an engine and the block is being machined anyway... the difference isn't a whole lot. However, if you are just skimming the head to boost the compression and not tearing down the whole block then it is less expensive to just do the head. In real world driving, the difference between a 9.5:1 engine achieved through a zero deck clearance and shaving the head only @ .080" vs a 9.5:1 engine with just shaving the head @ .120" is probably only really measurable while analyzing the exhaust. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From jimmble at roadrunner.com Sat Jan 5 09:45:38 2008 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 11:45:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <477FAA65@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <477FAA65@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <477FB432.1040205@roadrunner.com> Ditto what Shawn says. this is my favorite off the shaelf exhaust. I love the tone: Different than stock but a much deeper, sweeter note than the raspy Monza's. YMMV! Jim Shawn J. Loseke wrote: > > I ran the Stainless Twin Sports system available through Moss Motors > http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32838 > with my old stock (internal) engine and still use it with my modified tri-carb > engine. From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 5 09:53:58 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 16:53:58 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <477FAA65@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <477FAA65@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066142@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Ok, this is good. So if you buy an 860-270 from Moss, it looks like it goes all the way from the back up to the flange that bolts to what, the standard TR6 exhaust manifold ?. If you buy a performance header, do they have the same standard flange that connects to the 860-270 or do you have to have something else to serve as an adapter ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: Shawn J. Loseke [mailto:sloseke at holly.colostate.edu] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 10:56 AM To: Foster, Stan; 6pack Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 exhaust >===== Original Message From "Foster, Stan" ===== >Based on what I am reading here there is some demand for a TR6 system that >flows well, sounds appropriate for a street car driven on long trips (ie >doesn't require you to wear ear plugs), wont rust and can be put together with >a good off the shelf header and doesn't cost $2000. > >It seems this can be done if you have the time and the resources and someone >local that can fabricate the missing bits (ie another Project) but if you want >to buy something as a system it is either going to be too loud (Monza) or too >inefficient (standard TR6) or too expensive for now (Rimmer). I ran the Stainless Twin Sports system available through Moss Motors http://www.mossmotors.com/Shop/ViewProducts.aspx?PlateIndexID=32838 with my old stock (internal) engine and still use it with my modified tri-carb engine. So I have used it with both the dual downpipe manifold and a Group 44 style header. It seems to flow very well and the sound is excellent. Not near as loud as a Monza system, plus instead of 'droning' at highway rpm's the sound level actually drops down and is pretty quiet. When used with the header and modified engine, everything got louder but it still quiets down to acceptable levels when cruising. Part of my reason for this system was aesthetics. I like the two big pipes sticking out the back end. Some like four, thats all personal preference. The larger single pipe performance systems do show a slight (approximately 8 horspower) advantage over the twin pipe systems. However, that advantage is only seen above 5,000 RPM. While my engine does pull strong above 5,000 RPM (dyno showed the horsepower peak at about 5,750 RPM), I don't spend enough time above 5,000 RPM to miss that slight increase in power. If my car saw a lot more track time (any at this point) that might change as every little bit can help. There's another opinion for the pile... Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From patton at suscom-maine.net Sat Jan 5 10:29:17 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 12:29:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <477FAA65@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: I thought I'd stand up and say that the twin pipe system deserves more credit than it's detractors give it. Two years ago I added a supercharger to my TR6 and one of the last modifications was the exhaust. The car is a 1975 that came from the factory with the twin pipe set up. The supercharger can be disengaged so I tested for back pressure with and without the blower. What surprised me most was that the twin system only showed about 1 psi of back pressure and that was AT REDLINE! It was another story with the blower at redline showing almost 9psi. The test was done on the road using a bung welded into the exhaust and a tube connected to a 0-15psi boost gauge I could watch while driving. From that test it appears to me that for a TR6 that has not been modified the stock twin pipe set up is certainly adequate. And some say they can feel the difference, well is it feel or hear the difference? Are you so in tune with your car that you notice two or three horsepower? Most everyone who's changed the exhaust likes a little rumble. I know I'm certainly in that category. Ready to get some flames over those thoughts! I ended up building my own stainless system from 2.5" tubing. The original twin manifold was port matched and generally cleaned up for optimum flow. A new larger twin down pipe was fabricated that ended in a 2.5" flange. From there back its all mandrel bent TIG welded 2.5" to a Dynomax Ultraflow stainless muffler and a single 2.5" tail pipe. It's pretty darn loud especially when running the blower although most LIST members like it. I do let up when passing near a police officer. The Ultraflow is straight thru and you could drop golf balls thru it so there isn't much restriction. And back pressure has not been measured but other than open headers it couldn't be much better. Some things that I might do differently: 1) 2.5" pipe is really big and clearances very tight so 2.25" would be a better fit 2) The Dynomax Ultraflow a bit loud for me You can see a couple pictures at: http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/flange.jpg http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/muffler.jpg My two cents for what it's worth, Rick Patton 75 TR6sci http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/ From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sat Jan 5 15:43:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 15:43:33 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Tr6 Rear Disc Brake Project, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <47800815.80707@tscusa.org> Bob Danielson wrote: > Glenn.......... Spend some time going through Joe's web site and you'll be > awestruck by the stuff he has done! It doesnt matter whether you love or > hate these kind of conversions..... you have to love the execution and the > quality of the work on his car. It's one of the best, if not the best, > thought out conversion that I've seen. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > Yeah, after I saw the photos i went to the main site and got the whole story on Bowtie6. Nice work Joe! See the whole project at http://www.bowtie6.com/ -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 5 19:08:43 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 02:08:43 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <478082E9@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <478082E9@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE06615E@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> [resending, this time below 3k limit] > I just had a local exhaust shop fab up the connectors from the header to the intermediate pipes. So is there an end to end solution that matches my desirable characteristics (performance header, good flow, good sound, not too loud, stainless, under $1000 ) that doesn't require the fabrication of custom parts ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: Shawn J. Loseke [mailto:sloseke at holly.colostate.edu] Sent: Saturday, January 05, 2008 3:34 PM To: Foster, Stan; 6pack Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 exhaust The complete system is designed to bolt to the dual downpipe exhaust manifold. Which is why it is listed for '72-'76 TR6's. When I added my header, I just had a local exhaust shop fab up the connectors from the header to the intermediate pipes. Some of the headers from TRF and Rimmers can come with connectors to add them into the stock exhaust, which will also work to connect them to the Twin Sports system. Shawn From jimmble at roadrunner.com Sat Jan 5 19:23:53 2008 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 21:23:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47803BB9.9080904@roadrunner.com> I'll agree with that, Rick. Thanks for sharing your testing results. A little backpressure on a NA exhaust is no bad thing in reality, and the exhaust size of the dual system isn't bad at all for most power levels seen here. One thing about turbo mufflers (as a guy who has tried several kinds on a Merkur with 3" exhaust) The thing about turbo mufflers is that they have no / few baffles so as to give maximum flow. Why? Turbo cars already have a muffler right at the exhaust outlet.... the turbo! This allows for minimal silencing in the muffler itself while still giving a reasonably quiet exhaust. With an NA car you either need a couple of bends in the pipes or a better silencer to get the noise levels down. I personally probably would not like the result of a free flowing exhaust coupled with a turbo muffler on a street TR6. Keep in mind I like a fairly quiet car at cruise. What is intolerable to me may be perfect for someone else's taste. Jim Rick wrote: > I thought I'd stand up and say that the twin pipe system deserves more > credit than it's detractors give it. > > -snip- From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 5 20:19:32 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 22:19:32 EST Subject: [6pack] compression Message-ID: Although some have reported increased oil consumption using the external oiler, the oil is delivered through the same oil ports in the top end as without the external oiler. The external oiler does not spray oil, rather it increases the oil flow through the normal ports and galleries in the rocker assembly. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DLylis at aol.com Sat Jan 5 20:28:24 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 5 Jan 2008 22:28:24 EST Subject: [6pack] Fw: compression Message-ID: Al, Wet test. Take out the spark plug and squirt oil into the cylinder. Do the compression test. If the results change then the rings are contributing to the compression readings. If there is no change then the issue may be with valves. Understand, of course, that it may be both to some degree. Leak down test. Introduce compressed air into the cylinder and put an ear to 1. carbs; intake valve leak 2. exhaust; exhaust valve leak 3. sump; piston rings. My guess is that you have excess positive crankcase pressure because of the oil leak at the sump gasket that doesn't stop. IMHO David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sun Jan 6 12:28:00 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 12:28:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust Message-ID: <47817A03@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From "Foster, Stan" ===== >[resending, this time below 3k limit] > >> I just had a local exhaust shop fab up the connectors from the header to the >intermediate pipes. > >So is there an end to end solution that matches my desirable characteristics >(performance header, good flow, good sound, not too loud, stainless, under >$1000 ) that doesn't require the fabrication of custom parts ? > >Stan One of the Rimmer kits would have all of that. Their price converter showed about $740 before shipping. The header included in that kit might be a slight improvement over the stock manifold. TRF has a system with a more substantial header that lists for $1100 without shipping (RFK1405). It appears that a "fitting kit" with clamps and hangers is separate though. Both are made in stainless. Things get a lot louder with a header though. Especially if you have increased the engines compression and are running a high lift cam. If you have only done a mild performance rebuild in the engine then the stock dual exhaust manifold and the simple twin sports system would be my recommendation. It would still flow well, sound good, look good (IMHO) and the addition of a header probably wouldn't make bit of performance difference. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From derick at zeni.net Sun Jan 6 14:07:46 2008 From: derick at zeni.net (Don Erickson) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 15:07:46 -0600 (CST) Subject: [6pack] Popping out of 3rd on decel Message-ID: Hi All, I'm doing an engine swap, and am thinking that it's a good time to address a transmission issue. On decelleration in 3rd, the tranny wants to pop out of gear. It's an older A-type OD tranny in a 74 1/2 TR6, and everything else in the box works fine and is quiet, except for the fact that the syncro is pretty shot on 3rd gear. Is this problem possibly addressed with a simple bushing/syncro cup replacement, or are harsher measures generally required? Anyone have experience with this type of issue? Regards, -Don From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 6 18:44:50 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 20:44:50 EST Subject: [6pack] Popping out of 3rd on decel Message-ID: I am not the expert, but having just rebuilt my tranny I understand that the springs and balls in the synchro hubs are likely the villians. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Jan 6 20:40:16 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 06 Jan 2008 20:40:16 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Was Disc Brake Project, now Triumph Trans Am 2009, Any Interest? In-Reply-To: <002c01c8500c$11a7ac10$8215a8c0@garage.local> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com><477EF284.2060802@tscusa.org> <004101c84f4c$56379090$210110ac@bobspc> <47800815.80707@tscusa.org> <002c01c8500c$11a7ac10$8215a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <47819F20.8080204@tscusa.org> Oliver wrote: > Glenn - > > according to jonmac you volunteered to rebuild the engine and tranny > on the stag? is the club involved? > > just curious! > > dave northrup Hi Dave, Thanks for asking about the Triumph Trans AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009. You should visit the Triumph Trans AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009 web site for the complete details. http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ The short story is, I am "coordinating" the sourcing and restoration of the Stag that will make this +10k mile trip across North America. I am also assisting John in other areas for this drive. So this means I am still actively looking for a complete donor Stag, complete donated Stag, or beneficiaries to donate a Stag. ISOA has volunteered to do all the body and possibly suspension. Another Club is discussing the engine and transmission rebuild. A few others are discussing their involvement such as enroute support, and several restoration shops have already volunteered any necessary services when the car passes through. I am also looking for clubs who have truck/trailer/driver access to move this car and misc parts between the clubs who are doing the restoration bits. Although I am coordinating this car portion of the drive, I will most likely have a hand personally in the restoration as it progresses, and I anticipate driving some of the route with John, and hopefully many others. Is TSC USA involved? Well TSC USA is now a board run club, and all I can say is that the subject has been discussed in the last 3 board meetings, the degree of involvement is currently under discussion by the board. For a national club, it is difficult to coordinate such support with over 320 members spread all over North America. If you have recommendations or suggestions on how TSC USA can be involved, I am sure the board would love to hear ideas. I hope to have the donor car sourced by the end of January 2008, and in ISOA hands absolutely no later than the end of March 2008 to commence the body restoration. We have had a couple of "close ones" but either missed out, or a day late and a dollar short. There is one in Youngstown NY that looks to be a very suitable candidate, but we really need a benefactor to snatch it up for the charity drive. Anyway, more on the car status in the coming week. Many clubs are discussing involvement at heir holiday parties, and several have already contacted myself and John Macartney. Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From waltp58 at comcast.net Sun Jan 6 21:02:58 2008 From: waltp58 at comcast.net (Walt) Date: Sun, 6 Jan 2008 23:02:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations Message-ID: <000001c850e2$31110890$4cce6c4c@home> My fuel pump is leaking. I don't know what brand it is, but it does not have the primer lever. I'm assuming since my pump does not have a lever it must be an off-brand and the rebuild kits won't fit. Is that true? I see fuel pumps from the big 3 priced from 50 to 150 bucks. Is there really that much of a difference in quality? Walt Philipson '74 Carmine From 6parts at charter.net Sun Jan 6 22:02:09 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 00:02:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations References: <000001c850e2$31110890$4cce6c4c@home> Message-ID: <002d01c850ea$757a7c70$03d30c47@alan> Right now , Moss has the best price on an original type fuel pump with the lever. Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Walt" To: <6pack at Autox.Team.Net> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 11:02 PM Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations > My fuel pump is leaking. I don't know what brand it is, but it does not > have > the primer lever. I'm assuming since my pump does not have a lever it must > be an off-brand and the rebuild kits won't fit. Is that true? I see fuel > pumps from the big 3 priced from 50 to 150 bucks. Is there really that > much > of a difference in quality? > > > > Walt Philipson > > '74 Carmine > _______________________________________________ From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Jan 7 00:10:49 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 01:10:49 -0600 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations References: <000001c850e2$31110890$4cce6c4c@home> Message-ID: <001f01c850fc$6ebf7180$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Walt: >Is there really that much > of a difference in quality? These days a lot of British car replacement parts are churned out in China. You might check out Quinton Hazell, "one of the UK's larger produces of auto parts. They make nearly 40 product groups and over 36,000 part numbers and is the leading aftermarket manufacturer and distributor of Motor Components, Cooling; Steering and Suspension; Transmission; Auto Electrics; Braking; Security; Filters; and associated products". There are numerous dealers carrying Quinton Hazell parts. Dana inherited Quinton Hazell as part of the deal when it bought Echlin in 1998. You might have a QH dealer locally. Or just Google (or Scroogle) 'Quinton Hazell parts dealer' and you will find a bunch of dealers. For example, www.autopartsway.ca in Canada,or in the USA, www.autopartsway.com : Fuel Pump E3000-45919 Quinton Hazell $102.27 $57.58 Their parts list for TR6 has 50 or 60 items, such as Air filter, alternator, alternator plug, battery, relay, switch, washer pump, flasher relay,speedometer cable, turn signal switch, water temperature sender, headlight switch, etc., etc....brake parts, engine parts, steering parts, manifold gaskets, fuel pumps, sending units, u-joints, etc... Maybe we might find some price relief among these items. No connection, no history of good or bad quality or service, just recently learned about them from a British car site. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Walt" To: <6pack at Autox.Team.Net> Sent: Sunday, January 06, 2008 10:02 PM Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com Mon Jan 7 07:49:02 2008 From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:49:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel In-Reply-To: <8CA1C2B5010E16E-A4C-2BD5@mblk-d22.sysops.aol.com> References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE5116@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1BD4683AF70C-9D4-21B0@WEBMAIL-DG05> <8CA1C2486649AED-D6C-2A47@FWM-M40.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE065E6F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <8CA1C2B5010E16E-A4C-2BD5@mblk-d22.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: Hey guys, I think I had a tech tip about this published in either the Richmond or Capital Triumph Register newsletter. What I ended up doing was getting some realatively long - (like an inch to and inch and a half) set screws that were the same diameter / pitch as the bolts that hold the cover down. I could screw those down into the holes from inside the car using an allen wrench. Then what I've got is a bunch of studs sticking up out of the flange on the floor. Pushing the tunnel down onto these studs is MUCH more easy than trying to line up the hole in the cover with the hole in the floor. Then you can put whatever washers and nut you want on to the top of the exposed set screw and tighten things down. You'll end up using the allen wrench to adjust how much of the set screw you want sticking up above the nutt / washer . . . so it is a little fiddly having an allen wrench and some other type of wrench working at the same time. (Much like adjusting valves) For that reason - for some of the fasteners that were difficult to reach - if the tunnel seemed to stay in place well enough - I went ahead and pulled the stud (setscrew) back out and replaced it with a regular bolt. I'm trying to remember if there were any other things I learned when doing this .. . . I believe depending on your car - there may be a couple places where the 1 1/2" long studs can't be screwed all the way down. They stick so far out the bottom that they might hit . . .something . .and exhaust pipe or clamp maybe? Not sure. I am pretty sure I used stainless steel setscrews. maybe these: www.mcmaster.com 92311A566 Type 18-8 SS Cup Point Socket Set Screw 1/4"-28 Thread, 1-1/4" Length In stock at $10.36 per Pack This product is sold in Packs of 25 *DON'T GO AND ORDER THESE WITHOUT VERIFYING THAT 1/4"-28 IS THE RIGHT THREAD SIZE. I'M GOING FROM MEMORY* Good luck! Scott Tilton > > Subject: RE: [6pack] Tranny Tunnel > > Great tip, Ib ll try it soon when I put my interior back in. One question, > when you are done is it obvious when you look inside the cockpit that you > have > done this because the bolt end and the nut and the washer etc are bigger > that > what you would normally have with just the bolt head and a washer or does > this > all get hidden by the carpet ? From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 7 08:52:48 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 07:52:48 -0800 Subject: [6pack] compression In-Reply-To: <011501c84f4b$8f422f40$03d30c47@alan> References: <36398.30734.qm@web30408.mail.mud.yahoo.com><477ED308.7030809@optonline.net> <011501c84f4b$8f422f40$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: Al: Is your crankcase breather hooked up and working? If not, get it hooked up. This would explain the oil getting pushed out of your pan gasket; the crankcase is pressurized and that pressure has to go somewhere. Are you using an external oil line to get extra oil to the valve train? If so, remove it. This is often the source of excess oil consumption. If your oil leak is large enough, it could account for the consumption and the lack of smoke - the oil is being left all over the road when you drive the car instead of being burned. What color are your plugs? Are they sooty black, grayish/brown, or white? This will tell you if you car is running rich or not. As for the compression readings, they are high for stock, but fine for a 9-9.5:1 modified motor. Look elsewhere for the source of your oil loss. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: January 04, 2008 7:32 PM To: 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] compression I've been having a problem for awhile in that the car has been using a quart of oil with every other tank of gas. I did a compression check and the readings were 145-140-130-130-130-145. I just noticed that the spin on oil filter was a bit small and changed that to the correct size. Oil was being pushed out the oil pan gasket, even after changing the gasket. The car only smokes when when I gear down and accelerate; and part of that may be beacause its running too rich. For the amount of oil its using, I would think it would smoke quite a bit more. How bad are these compression readings? Thanks Al From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Jan 7 09:01:48 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:01:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 exhaust In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066136@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <20080105142231.WAIW2942.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066136@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: On Sat, 5 Jan 2008, Foster, Stan wrote: > Based on what I am reading here there is some demand for a TR6 system that > flows well, sounds appropriate for a street car driven on long trips (ie > doesn't require you to wear ear plugs), wont rust and can be put together with > a good off the shelf header and doesn't cost $2000. > > It seems this can be done if you have the time and the resources and someone > local that can fabricate the missing bits (ie another Project) but if you want > to buy something as a system it is either going to be too loud (Monza) or too > inefficient (standard TR6) or too expensive for now (Rimmer). > > Assuming you have a header and you have a SS muffler how difficult is it to > find someone that can fabricate the intermediate bits (pipe, brackets, > hangers) in SS ? This should be no prob. Look in the phone book for custom exhaust shops and call around. You want to find shops that work with custom hot rod fabricators. You want mandrel bent tuning (this is sometimes a limiting factor). Stainless is a bit tougher, but there are shops that do a lot of stainless. The hot rod guys like stainless because they (like a lot of us) don't put a tonne of miles on thier cars so they want something that'll last. > Stan regards rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From dncullig at us.ibm.com Mon Jan 7 09:20:10 2008 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:20:10 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Popping out of 3rd on decel Message-ID: Don wrote: >On decelleration in 3rd, the tranny wants to pop out of gear. I had the same issue with a tranny on my 76 TR6 - I found the "top-hat" bushing was cracked/broken and the synchros were shot. Dennis Culligan, Highland, NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH (Broken O/D tranny STILL in the shed... (sigh)) From bmoine at yahoo.com Mon Jan 7 09:36:52 2008 From: bmoine at yahoo.com (W. W. Moine) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 08:36:52 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations Message-ID: <843573.22229.qm@web30311.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just my opinion..... The Moss one is made in Canada and in my car only lasted about 600 miles then the valves inside came loose and made a hole in the diaphragm. I have heard that many others have had the same issue with it. The one that TRF sells is from Italy and appears to be better quality. I have over 2000 miles on it. The casting of it also looks a litter higher quality. Either way I will always still carry an extra one in the trunk. WWM 76 RHD TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 7 09:52:56 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:52:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gear Reduction Starter Message-ID: <000001c8514d$c254ad00$210110ac@bobspc> Anyone familiar with him or his starters? http://tinyurl.com/2tfezl Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1212 - Release Date: 1/6/2008 10:55 PM From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Jan 7 10:05:10 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:05:10 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Popping out of 3rd on decel In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, popping out of gear means somethings out of spec. I'd look at the detent springs in the synchro hub (although the car would probably pop out of 4th too) and then the clearances in the 'box starting with the layshaft thrust washers. Last, I'd check the 2nd/3rd clearances. But the first first step would be to drain the fluid and see what's up. Stuff in the fluid will always tell you what's up: goldish metalflakes == BRASS/BRONZE which is the synchros or the mainshaft bushings (early trannies only, aka before CF12500 (in theory... I've seen post CF12500 cars with original gear boxes with brass mainshaft bushings!)) silver-ish / grey metalflakes == STEEL (use a magnet). this is the synchohubs and the "adjusting washers" for the 2nd/3rd end-float or ALUMINUM which is the case (which can be real bad!). rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 7 10:06:15 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 09:06:15 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE06613A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <000401c84f68$e8441c30$8c34454f@TR6> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE06613A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: Actually, if you look at Richard's table carefully, you will see that a 1974 head starting at 3.550 thickness, and ending at 9.6:1 CR with a 0.020 overbore (which is what I did) should be milled to 3.416 which is 0.134" thinner. I had my head milled .120", plus had the block decked 0.010", which takes the effective head milling to 0.130", which is within 0.004" of what Richard recommends. I milled my head based on measuring the volume of the chambers with a burette, and that is how I came up with 0.120". It was gratifying to see that my measurements agreed so closely with Richard Good's numbers. The 0.080" number that Roger Williams mentions is based on a starting compression ratio of 8.5:1 (?). Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: January 05, 2008 7:36 AM To: Derek Cc: 6pack (6pack) Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation Thanks Derek, that is quite a formidable spreadsheet !. And that thickness is consistent with Roger Williams who says in both TR6 books that the US head will need about .080 removed to bring the compression back up to 9.5:1 According to Richard (zero decked, standard pistons) 3.5 - 3.416 = .084 for 9.5:1 CR Less than I was expecting. Vance once told me he had .120 removed from his 74.5 for a target CR of 9.6:1 but he did not totally zero deck the block but left it .010 above the pistons so I guess that would account for some of the difference between .084 and .120 (the more volume between the piston and the top of the block, the more you have to remove from the head to get the same CR ?) From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Jan 7 10:18:47 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:18:47 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation In-Reply-To: References: <000401c84f68$e8441c30$8c34454f@TR6> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE06613A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: On Mon, 7 Jan 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > The 0.080" number that Roger Williams mentions is based on a > starting compression ratio of 8.5:1 (?). That is correct. If you look in the Kastner TR6 Competition Prep Book (aka the Bible), it tells you this very number - later heads must take off and additional .080 to get the the numbers. He uses 10:1 and 10.3:1 (stock block and decked) and 12:1 / 12.3:1 (stock block and decked) as his target compression figures. But in every case, to know the exact combustion chamber volume, you need to do what Vance did - set up the burrette and measure. Interestingly, TR6 cylinder heads have very good tolerances, so the "mill this amount" method does work, even if it's not "exact". And the chart on Goodparts is a great guide. > Vance regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Jan 7 10:34:43 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 17:34:43 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Gear Reduction Starter In-Reply-To: <000001c8514d$c254ad00$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c8514d$c254ad00$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066285@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> It's nice that he includes the new tranny/bellhousing bolts (apparently sans dowels). A bit of added bling to go with your shiny new starter. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:53 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Gear Reduction Starter Anyone familiar with him or his starters? http://tinyurl.com/2tfezl Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From vitop at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 7 10:48:50 2008 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 11:48:50 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Looking for a set of TR6 A/C mounting brackets Message-ID: <0c3801c85155$903d36e0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Does anyone have a set of mounting brackets for a TR6 and a York compressor? I am looking for the large top bracket as well as the lower one that looks like a rod with bolt flanges on it. Thanks! From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 7 10:58:59 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:58:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations References: <843573.22229.qm@web30311.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <002001c85156$fb105cd0$03d30c47@alan> I have the TRF one in my car , and it works fine. I thought Moss was using the same one. MY BAD. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "W. W. Moine" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 11:36 AM Subject: [6pack] fuel pump recomendations > Just my opinion..... > > The Moss one is made in Canada and in my car only lasted about 600 miles > then the valves inside came loose and made a hole in the diaphragm. I > have heard that many others have had the same issue with it. > > The one that TRF sells is from Italy and appears to be better quality. I > have over 2000 miles on it. The casting of it also looks a litter higher > quality. > > Either way I will always still carry an extra one in the trunk. > > > WWM > > 76 RHD TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 6parts at charter.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 > 9:14 AM From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 7 11:02:37 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 10:02:37 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation In-Reply-To: <477FBECB@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <477FBECB@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: Shawn: Raising the compression ratio by decking the block will get you more power than raising the compression the same amount by milling the head. The reason is that with a decked block the piston comes closer to the head, increasing "squish". This creates more turbulence and fuel mixing in the chamber, for a more thorough burn. The closer the piston comes to the head, the more squish you get, right up until the piston crashes into the head and your new motor is reduced to scrap metal. If you are hot rodding an engine and are pulling the block, ALWAYS get your motor zero decked if your head has any squish area on the head (Some motors have no squish at all, like the old Chrysler Hemi motors and some Japanese 4 valve designs). If you have no squish area, then it is a waste of time. But most motors have a squish (sometimes call "quench") area designed in so you should go with a zero deck height. This is why Kastner instructs you to deck the block (although he does not say why) when prepping your motor. David Vizard also strongly recommends it in his engine building books. Confucius say "Learn the ways of the Zen masters, oh grasshopper, and you will go fast" Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Shawn J. Loseke Sent: January 05, 2008 8:22 AM To: Foster, Stan; Derek Cc: 6pack (6pack) Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation The best/most mechanically efficient method for increasing compression is to begine with a zero deck height. That way more of the combustion chamber shape can be saved. When you keep shrinking that chamber shape you completely change the burn characteristics. On race engines the pistons will actually stand proud of the blocks deck to maintain as much of the chamber as possible before cutting the head down. My pistons stand proud of the block by .013". I was originally looking for zero deck clearance but my machinist (who buildd primarily circle track motors) went a little too far. Luckily, the compressed thickness of the head gasket is still enough to not cause any problems. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Jan 7 11:17:23 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 18:17:23 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation In-Reply-To: References: <477FBECB@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE0662AD@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> The gentleman who is doing the machining for my motor also asserts that zero decked engines develop more torque. He is going to CC my cylinder head to my desired CR btw. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 1:03 PM To: Shawn J. Loseke Cc: 6pack (6pack) Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation Shawn: Raising the compression ratio by decking the block will get you more power than raising the compression the same amount by milling the head. The reason is that with a decked block the piston comes closer to the head, increasing "squish". This creates more turbulence and fuel mixing in the chamber, for a more thorough burn. The closer the piston comes to the head, the more squish you get, right up until the piston crashes into the head and your new motor is reduced to scrap metal. If you are hot rodding an engine and are pulling the block, ALWAYS get your motor zero decked if your head has any squish area on the head (Some motors have no squish at all, like the old Chrysler Hemi motors and some Japanese 4 valve designs). If you have no squish area, then it is a waste of time. But most motors have a squish (sometimes call "quench") area designed in so you should go with a zero deck height. This is why Kastner instructs you to deck the block (although he does not say why) when prepping your motor. David Vizard also strongly recommends it in his engine building books. Confucius say "Learn the ways of the Zen masters, oh grasshopper, and you will go fast" Vance From nosto53 at yahoo.com Mon Jan 7 13:11:26 2008 From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:11:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Urethane or not? Message-ID: <968474.71685.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I an doing a little rear parts: New springs (TRF "hi-perf?"), Conversion KYD shocks, hoses, Alpine rear wheel cylinder, Brembo rears, Good adjustable trailing arm brackets.... I bought my urethanes and steel (TRF, HP154) in 2004. I took off the TAs and cleaned their. The urethanes the holes in the middle are not round, there sort of oval now. Is there anyway to correct this problem or do I need to replace them? And shoud I get urethane, Prothane or Nylatron? (I'm not a racer or autox.) RickO --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From tr6nut at verizon.net Mon Jan 7 16:15:14 2008 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Mon, 07 Jan 2008 18:15:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Urethane or not? In-Reply-To: <968474.71685.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <968474.71685.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <4782B282.1020005@verizon.net> richard olson wrote: > > I bought my urethanes and steel (TRF, HP154) in 2004. > I took off the TAs and cleaned their. The urethanes the > holes in the middle are not round, there sort of oval now. > > I had the same problem with urethane trailing arm bushes. Switched to nylatron and never looked back..... Hugh Barber Stafford, VA '73 TR6 From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 7 17:13:14 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 19:13:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Urethane or not? References: <968474.71685.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <4782B282.1020005@verizon.net> Message-ID: <010a01c8518b$437dc8c0$03d30c47@alan> I still say TRF's up-rated rubber ones are the best. Just a PITB to install. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hugh Barber" To: "richard olson" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 6:15 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Urethane or not? > richard olson wrote: >> >> I bought my urethanes and steel (TRF, HP154) in 2004. >> I took off the TAs and cleaned their. The urethanes the >> holes in the middle are not round, there sort of oval now. >> >> > I had the same problem with urethane trailing arm bushes. Switched to > nylatron and never looked back..... > > Hugh Barber > Stafford, VA > '73 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Jan 7 17:28:53 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 16:28:53 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Urethane or not? In-Reply-To: richard olson 's message of Mon, 7 Jan 2008 12:11:26 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <19032-4782C3C5-4773@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Rich---I had the same "ovaling out" with my urethane TA bushings after short time and mileage. I went with RGood's nylatron setup about a year ago. I also installed some Zerk fittings in the arms, so I could give them a shot of grease now and then. (This addition should help any material, 'cept maybe the rubber ones) I don't know how long these nylon bushings will last,but they have to be better than urethane. The hard rubber upgrade is probably a good choice here, also. The steel concave spacers that come with the nylatron kit are a bonus for a proper setup. Dick E-mail message Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: nosto53 at yahoo.com(richard olson) Date: Mon, Jan 7, 2008, 12:11pm To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Urethane or not? I an doing a little rear parts: New springs (TRF "hi-perf?"), Conversion KYD shocks, hoses, Alpine rear wheel cylinder, Brembo rears, Good adjustable trailing arm brackets.... I bought my urethanes and steel (TRF, HP154) in 2004. I took off the TAs and cleaned their. The urethanes the holes in the middle are not round, there sort of oval now. Is there anyway to correct this problem or do I need to replace them? And shoud I get urethane, Prothane or Nylatron? (I'm not a racer or autox.) RickO --------------------------------- From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 7 19:14:37 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 18:14:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] British Car Day In-Reply-To: <00ba01c83de8$3dac05d0$2e00a8c0@internal> Message-ID: <172243.17097.qm@web82612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Well I'm finally reading all of my back Triumph email that piled up between Thanksgiving and the New Year. I've been meaning to get to the meet up formerly known as crystal cove. But the british car one would have been especially good, I'm bummed I missed it! Oh well.. next time I guess! 7am on a Saturday just doesn't happen very often for me. Kendall San Clemente, CA --- Richard Schnyder wrote: > If you know about Cars and Coffee, every Saturday, Irvine Calif. > You might know we had a British Car Day there last Saturday. > About 50 British Cars showed up, including at DB4GT ASTON MARTIN ZAGATO, > which was driven there over 60 miles. > > The next British Car Day at Cars and Coffee will be Saturday, May 10, 2008. > It will also be Triumph Day, as the second Saturday of each month always is > at Cars and Coffee. > > The Southern California Triumph Owners Association members show up with > their TR's. > > This is a very casual affair. NOT COMMERCIAL. NO Awards, just good people > with great cars. > > Take at look at : http://carsandcoffee.info/forum/ From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 7 20:29:38 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 19:29:38 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? In-Reply-To: <010220081325.14001.477B90DD000DD5AC000036B12207022933970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <967190.50821.qm@web82612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Irv, Any chance you have a picture of this installed on your car? Sounds like something I would like too, but they don't have any pictures on their website. Thanks, Kendall San Clemente, CA > Here's a potential solution to your fan switch question. Go to > http://www.revingtontr.com and search for electric fan. One of the hits will > be a stainless steel radiator pipe with a built in boss to take a thermostat > for the electric fan. From sakirsis at consolidated.net Mon Jan 7 21:30:21 2008 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 22:30:21 -0600 Subject: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam References: Message-ID: <003901c851af$2e85dab0$6501a8c0@MomandDad> I have been away for a few days and did not have computer access. Thanks to all for your horror stories. It is definetely not funny at the time, but knowing I'm in good company makes me feel much better. Thanks for the cam offers but I was able to dig one up here in Houston and this time it will be Fed Ex. Great stuff. Steve Kirsis, '70 and '75, Damson and Pimento 6s. ----- Original Message ----- From: MGruber921 at aol.com To: sakirsis at consolidated.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 8:48 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] The Post Office and my Cam Shipped an Overdrive trans by UPS a couple of years ago. Packaged per UPS instructions. It was delivered busted in three pieces. Some of my engineering whiz's I worked with figured it had to be dropped at least 12 feet to bust the case up like it was. I did insure (not near enough) the trans, still took 3 months and a nasty letter to get a settlement. I try not to use UPS for anything big. I can probably dig you a cam out if you still need one. Marvin Gruber ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Mon Jan 7 21:41:37 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Mon, 7 Jan 2008 21:41:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation Message-ID: <4783B1C2@webmail.colostate.edu> I'll admit you said it better than I did Vance. Thats what I get for writing stuff while I have a nasty headcold. Thats what I was getting at by saying that the burn was more efficient when you retain more of the combustion chamber shape. Higher efficiency through the burn results in more power. With mild compression increases, the difference between the two techniques might not be so obvious to the average butt-dyno, though would probably be easily seen on an actual dyno, not only in more power but smoother power as well. In my Ford Cortina 1600GT, the combustion 'chamber' was in the piston head and the valve surface of the head was flat, no chamber on the head what so ever. Shawn >===== Original Message From "Navarrette, Vance" ===== > Shawn: > > Raising the compression ratio by decking the block will get you >more power than raising the compression the same amount by milling the >head. > The reason is that with a decked block the piston comes closer >to the head, increasing "squish". This creates more turbulence and fuel >mixing in the chamber, for a more thorough burn. The closer the piston >comes to the head, the more squish you get, right up until the piston >crashes into the head and your new motor is reduced to scrap metal. > If you are hot rodding an engine and are pulling the block, >ALWAYS get your motor zero decked if your head has any squish area on >the head (Some motors have no squish at all, like the old Chrysler Hemi >motors and some Japanese 4 valve designs). If you have no squish area, >then it is a waste of time. But most motors have a squish (sometimes >call "quench") area designed in so you should go with a zero deck >height. This is why Kastner instructs you to deck the block (although he >does not say why) when prepping your motor. David Vizard also strongly >recommends it in his engine building books. > > Confucius say "Learn the ways of the Zen masters, oh >grasshopper, and you will go fast" > > Vance > >-----Original Message----- >From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net >[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On >Behalf Of Shawn J. Loseke >Sent: January 05, 2008 8:22 AM >To: Foster, Stan; Derek >Cc: 6pack (6pack) >Subject: Re: [6pack] Compression Ratio Calculation > >The best/most mechanically efficient method for increasing compression >is to >begine with a zero deck height. That way more of the combustion chamber >shape >can be saved. When you keep shrinking that chamber shape you completely >change >the burn characteristics. On race engines the pistons will actually >stand >proud of the blocks deck to maintain as much of the chamber as possible >before >cutting the head down. My pistons stand proud of the block by .013". I >was >originally looking for zero deck clearance but my machinist (who buildd >primarily circle track motors) went a little too far. Luckily, the >compressed >thickness of the head gasket is still enough to not cause any problems. > > > >Shawn J. Loseke >Fort Collins, CO From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 8 06:02:45 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 08:02:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? In-Reply-To: <967190.50821.qm@web82612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <010220081325.14001.477B90DD000DD5AC000036B12207022933970A9D010507@comcast.net> <967190.50821.qm@web82612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000601c851f6$c63ed3b0$210110ac@bobspc> Kendall. This might help you out...here's my installation http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Radiator.htm Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall Larsen Sent: Monday, January 07, 2008 10:30 PM To: emanteno at comcast.net; 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? Hi Irv, Any chance you have a picture of this installed on your car? Sounds like something I would like too, but they don't have any pictures on their website. Thanks, Kendall San Clemente, CA > Here's a potential solution to your fan switch question. Go to > http://www.revingtontr.com and search for electric fan. One of the > hits will be a stainless steel radiator pipe with a built in boss to > take a thermostat for the electric fan. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM From andr.jrsquared at verizon.net Tue Jan 8 08:26:20 2008 From: andr.jrsquared at verizon.net (Jimmy Richards) Date: Tue, 08 Jan 2008 09:26:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] headrest spring Message-ID: <002701c8520a$d2e73ee0$78b5bca0$@jrsquared@verizon.net> I have refurbished my seat frames in anticipation of installing new seat covers. There is a plastic coated "spring" in the late model seat frames that holds up the headrests when the headrest is extended. I have one but need another. The big three don't seem to have this item. Does anyone have one of these springs that they would be willing to sell or an alternative solution? Jimmy Richards 1974 TR6 CF16521U College Station, TX 979 777 3198 From grant at bowtie6.com Tue Jan 8 09:46:02 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 11:46:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? In-Reply-To: <000601c851f6$c63ed3b0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <010220081325.14001.477B90DD000DD5AC000036B12207022933970A9D010507@comcast.net> <967190.50821.qm@web82612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000601c851f6$c63ed3b0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000801c85215$f6025d00$e2071700$@com> Nice setup Bob. However it has been my experience that to really make the electric fan run at its peak efficiency a shroud is required. You can see my setup here: http://www.bowtie6.com/cooling_system.htm The picture shows the shroud and the SPAL fan mounted on the shroud. The shroud is mounted to the radiator on posts, similar to those on Bob's radiator. My radiator is a Griffin and it has worked flawlessly (highly recommend it). The shroud enables the fan to draw through the opening and this cuases only cool air to flow through. At speed, contrary to popular belief, the radiator still works at peak efficiency flowing the air through the opening. The fan is controlled by a thermostat mounted on the bottom hose with a custom made enclosure that holds the sending unit. This has worked perfectly for 2 years even in the South Carolina summer heat. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 8 11:06:45 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 13:06:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? In-Reply-To: <000801c85215$f6025d00$e2071700$@com> References: <010220081325.14001.477B90DD000DD5AC000036B12207022933970A9D010507@comcast.net> <967190.50821.qm@web82612.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000601c851f6$c63ed3b0$210110ac@bobspc> <000801c85215$f6025d00$e2071700$@com> Message-ID: <000001c85221$3ec42720$210110ac@bobspc> Joe, When we move to either SC or TN in a couple of years I may have to go that route ;-) I've got a light hooked up to my fan that shows when it's running and I was surprised to see that it really only runs in stop and go traffic, and even then for only short bursts. Once I get over 35 - 40 mph, it never comes on, which goes to show that the mechanical fans that run all the time are really a drag......in more ways then one. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Joseph Grant [mailto:grant at bowtie6.com] Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 11:46 AM To: 'Bob Danielson'; 'Kendall Larsen'; emanteno at comcast.net; '6pack List' Subject: RE: [6pack] Electric fan thermostat and electrics ? Nice setup Bob. However it has been my experience that to really make the electric fan run at its peak efficiency a shroud is required. You can see my setup here: http://www.bowtie6.com/cooling_system.htm The picture shows the shroud and the SPAL fan mounted on the shroud. The shroud is mounted to the radiator on posts, similar to those on Bob's radiator. My radiator is a Griffin and it has worked flawlessly (highly recommend it). The shroud enables the fan to draw through the opening and this cuases only cool air to flow through. At speed, contrary to popular belief, the radiator still works at peak efficiency flowing the air through the opening. The fan is controlled by a thermostat mounted on the bottom hose with a custom made enclosure that holds the sending unit. This has worked perfectly for 2 years even in the South Carolina summer heat. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Jan 8 13:21:44 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 12:21:44 -0800 Subject: [6pack] headrest spring In-Reply-To: "Jimmy Richards" 's message of Tue, 08 Jan 2008 09:26:20 -0600 Message-ID: <255-4783DB58-2049@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> Jimmy---An alternative could be a wedge tht slips between the steel post of the headrest and the flange that's part of the seat top. This holds my head rest inits uppermost position. Since I never change the height of the rest, it works great. (The original friction device gave up long ago) Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: andr.jrsquared at verizon.net(Jimmy Richards) Date: Tue, Jan 8, 2008, 9:26am (PST+2) To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] headrest spring I have refurbished my seat frames in anticipation of installing new seat covers. There is a plastic coated "spring" in the late model seat frames that holds up the headrests when the headrest is extended. I have one but need another. The big three don't seem to have this item. Does anyone have one of these springs that they would be willing to sell or an alternative solution? Jimmy Richards 1974 TR6 CF16521U College Station, TX 979 777 3198 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6taylor at webtv.net From slbridge at hotmail.com Tue Jan 8 17:49:27 2008 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 00:49:27 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 In-Reply-To: <001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu> <001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> Message-ID: >From my research on their website, It looks like the Wilwood NDL would fit the front of my TR-6. They have the same bolt pattern at least. _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From shannm2 at triad.rr.com Tue Jan 8 18:25:12 2008 From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 20:25:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Advice with roller rocker valve adjustments Message-ID: <004c01c8525e$7b4e9490$0b01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> Hello Listers! I have hopefully a simple question about adjusting valves with Richard Good's roller rockers. As per Richard Good, my gp2 cam should be adjusted to 0.016" intake and 0.018" exhaust. What is the most accepted way to determine the lash with rollers? Understanding that you can insert the feeler gauge either perpenticular to the roller or straight into the roller (so rocker rolls WITH the feeler gauge). It seems that I am getting different results depending on how I insert the guage. Hopefully this makes sense. Any ideas? Thanks, -shannon 72 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 8 18:48:54 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 8 Jan 2008 20:48:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu> <001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> Message-ID: <000501c85261$cd1cef30$210110ac@bobspc> Steve......did you check out the Bowtie6 site (http://tinyurl.com/36zuuc) Joe's running Wildwood calipers. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steve bridge Sent: Tuesday, January 08, 2008 7:49 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 >From my research on their website, It looks like the Wilwood NDL would >fit the front of my TR-6. They have the same bolt pattern at least. _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1213 - Release Date: 1/7/2008 9:14 AM From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 06:54:05 2008 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 05:54:05 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild Message-ID: <510884.75991.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> i have a 76 tr6 and i'm in rockland co ny does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to have the bottom end rebuilt --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 9 09:01:42 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 08:01:42 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 In-Reply-To: <000501c85261$cd1cef30$210110ac@bobspc> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <000501c85261$cd1cef30$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: Interesting that the logo on the calipers themselves says "wilwood". I never noticed that before. Is there a fancy "d" in there somewhere that I am missing?. BTW, look at all the grade 8 hardware he used in putting the front end together. Looks like it would take a direct strike from a tactical nuke to do anything to it. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: January 08, 2008 5:49 PM To: 'steve bridge'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 Steve......did you check out the Bowtie6 site (http://tinyurl.com/36zuuc) Joe's running Wildwood calipers. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 9 09:19:04 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 08:19:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild In-Reply-To: <510884.75991.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <510884.75991.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: John: Depends what you mean by "rebuild" and how much work you do yourself. Some people would simply replace the main bearings and re-ring the pistons and call that "rebuilt". Me, I call that a "ghetto hack job". A bottom end rebuild can consist of up to 1. 0.020" over bore, hone, + new pistons, rings, wristpins 2. Crank turned 0.010/0.010, new bearings (main, rod, and thrust). 3. Rods resized, new rod bolts 4. Block hot tanked, painted, new freeze plugs, new main bolts 5. New oil pump, motor mounts. 6. New or reground cam and lifters 7. (optional) Install spitfire cam bearings 8. New timing gears and chain, as well as gaskets, seals, etc. If you do a COMPLETE bottom end rebuild and have someone do it for you, expect to pay ~$4,000. If you R&R the engine, do the teardown, and reassemble everything yourself, it will run about half that if you shop around for parts. all of this assumes you don't find any nasties - thrust bearings in the oil pan, cracked block, etc. You will probably also want to toss in a new clutch/pressure plate while the engine is out of the car, too. 'Course, while you are at it, might as well rebuild the head. Cut new valve seats, shave the head, replace the valve guides, pocket port, etc.... Ka-ching! I LOVE this hobby, and it is much less expensive than a wife! Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john doe Sent: January 09, 2008 5:54 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild i have a 76 tr6 and i'm in rockland co ny does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to have the bottom end rebuilt --------------------------------- From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Jan 9 10:14:24 2008 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 11:14:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Door Panels Message-ID: <000601c852e3$150349d0$7407f746@Dell320> Listers: I want to replace my interior door panels. Any recommendation on where to get the best quality replacement parts? TRF, MOSS or VB? Other suppliers? Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 From bratt at sasktel.net Wed Jan 9 10:20:56 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Wed, 09 Jan 2008 11:20:56 -0600 Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild References: <510884.75991.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000d01c852e3$fec86960$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> John: The cost of rebuilding depends upon the condition of the motor. A few years ago I rebuilt a motor that was found to be all in spec, where all the crank needed was polishing, and a new set of rod and main bearings were installed. I did, however, deglaze the cylinder walls, which were all in spec, and fitted new rings, a new oil pump, and timing chain and tensioner; and I ground the valves. I have also in the distant past rebuilt a motor where the crank was worn so bad it had to be replaced. I spite of this the bores were in good shape, so it could have been even worse. So, depending upon what you find inside your motor, it can cost a little or a lot. Best to tear it down, and see what has to be done, rather than guess at an estimated cost. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 7:54 AM Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild From triosan at gmail.com Wed Jan 9 12:05:04 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 11:05:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Convertible top screws and bolts Message-ID: <8cbd782d0801091105l1e917fb2j3001b1ccc53f92ed@mail.gmail.com> I removed the top 3 garges ago. Now no longer have the 6 screws that bolt the frame to the body or the 6[?] bolts that attach the frame piece to the rear deck. I would like to get the required parts locally, so I need to know the sizes of these two items. The screws are fit into the counter sunk holes on the frame. I would guess they are 1/4-28 by 1/2 or 3/4 [though they could be 5/16 24]. The bolts are probably 1/4 or 5/15 and also about 1/2 or 3/4. Would really appreciate it if anybody knows [I did not yet check in my Repair Manual]. -- Chuck Arnold From dncullig at us.ibm.com Wed Jan 9 12:43:54 2008 From: dncullig at us.ibm.com (Dennis N Culligan) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 14:43:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild Message-ID: "john doe" wrote: >i have a 76 tr6 and i'm in rockland co ny does anyone have an idea how much it would cost to have the bottom end >rebuilt As others have stated, it depends. I have a '76 TR6 & I'm in Ulster county NY. Back in 2001, after spinning a bearing, it cost me just under $4000 for the rebuild. I assume the same job will cost more now. Dennis Culligan, Highland,NY / 1976 TR6 CF57948U - TR6IUMPH From grant at bowtie6.com Wed Jan 9 15:06:18 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 17:06:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 In-Reply-To: References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <000501c85261$cd1cef30$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000001c8530b$dd6d4290$9847c7b0$@com> >> BTW, look at all the grade 8 hardware he used in putting the >> front end together. Looks like it would take a direct strike from a >> tactical nuke to do anything to it. I like that Vance! A tactical nuke! LOL! Every fastener on bowtie6 was replaced. Not one 'original bolt was re-used. I used Grade-8 for all suspension, engine mounts, etc. All the differential bolts, trailing arm bolts and body-to-frame mounting bolts are Grade-8. On some very special applications like the bolts holding the calipers (front and rear) the heads were drilled and the bolts were safety wired. Everything else - mainly body panels and less stress components - use stainless fasteners. For example, the entire collection of bolts that hold the fenders, bonnet hinges, boot lid, etc. I used of anti-seize on all of them and in some cases (only a few), I used blue Loctite. Finally there were some specialty fasteners that were specially ordered. For example the nuts that hold the Nissan driveshaft flanges to the diff are special and the bolts holding the headers to the block had to be special order. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 11:02 To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 Bob: Interesting that the logo on the calipers themselves says "wilwood". I never noticed that before. Is there a fancy "d" in there somewhere that I am missing?. BTW, look at all the grade 8 hardware he used in putting the front end together. Looks like it would take a direct strike from a tactical nuke to do anything to it. Vance From slbridge at hotmail.com Wed Jan 9 16:23:24 2008 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 23:23:24 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 In-Reply-To: <000001c8530b$dd6d4290$9847c7b0$@com> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <000501c85261$cd1cef30$210110ac@bobspc> <000001c8530b$dd6d4290$9847c7b0$@com> Message-ID: But what is the Wilwood model number of the caliper? > From: grant at bowtie6.com > To: vance.navarrette at intel.com; 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; 6pack at autox.team.net > Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 17:06:18 -0500 > Subject: Re: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 > > >> BTW, look at all the grade 8 hardware he used in putting the > >> front end together. Looks like it would take a direct strike from a > >> tactical nuke to do anything to it. > > I like that Vance! A tactical nuke! LOL! > > Every fastener on bowtie6 was replaced. Not one 'original bolt was re-used. > I used Grade-8 for all suspension, engine mounts, etc. All the differential > bolts, trailing arm bolts and body-to-frame mounting bolts are Grade-8. On > some very special applications like the bolts holding the calipers (front > and rear) the heads were drilled and the bolts were safety wired. > > Everything else - mainly body panels and less stress components - use > stainless fasteners. For example, the entire collection of bolts that hold > the fenders, bonnet hinges, boot lid, etc. I used of anti-seize on all of > them and in some cases (only a few), I used blue Loctite. > > Finally there were some specialty fasteners that were specially ordered. > For example the nuts that hold the Nissan driveshaft flanges to the diff are > special and the bolts holding the headers to the block had to be special > order. > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of > Navarrette, Vance > Sent: Wednesday, January 09, 2008 11:02 > To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 > > Bob: > > Interesting that the logo on the calipers themselves says > "wilwood". I never noticed that before. Is there a fancy "d" in there > somewhere that I am missing?. > > BTW, look at all the grade 8 hardware he used in putting the > front end together. Looks like it would take a direct strike from a > tactical nuke to do anything to it. > > Vance > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as slbridge at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_012008 From nosto53 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 9 22:08:07 2008 From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson) Date: Wed, 9 Jan 2008 21:08:07 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding - Part 3? Message-ID: <75883.31235.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> OK - Short question: I had my '73 TR6 for 1982 - 1996. In 1993, I buy a block and head for C.A.R.S. (TRF). I driven for 1993 - 1996. The DMV (NJ motor vehicles) found my chassis was not good could I had to take it off the road. (RIP) I wanted to see the engine for years. So, I went out and go a '72 TR6 in 1996. My engine is OK, but I have driving from 1996 - 2008. My '73 block/head are outside with 2 tarps. I clear and using with oil 2 days a year. Will I even had with the freezer? Can I take the '72 off and put in the '73? Will this be easy? RickO --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jan 10 06:06:20 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 08:06:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding - Part 3? In-Reply-To: <75883.31235.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <75883.31235.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, The 72 and 73 are basically the same engine, so this should be a complete bolt in. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From slbridge at hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 08:43:32 2008 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 15:43:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 In-Reply-To: <000001c8530b$dd6d4290$9847c7b0$@com> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <000501c85261$cd1cef30$210110ac@bobspc> <000001c8530b$dd6d4290$9847c7b0$@com> Message-ID: does anybody know what wilwood calipers joe used? _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_012008 From slbridge at hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 08:43:45 2008 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 15:43:45 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Wilwood Calipers on TR6 In-Reply-To: <000001c8530b$dd6d4290$9847c7b0$@com> References: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6C93@exch01.cet.edu><001301c84f45$80f4be40$82de3ac0$@com> <000501c85261$cd1cef30$210110ac@bobspc> <000001c8530b$dd6d4290$9847c7b0$@com> Message-ID: does anybody know what wilwood calipers joe used? _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_012008 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 06:28:17 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:28:17 +0000 Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I don't want to hi-jack Rick's other tread where he mentions a rebuild from TRF's C.A.R.S, but I was wondering if anybody has had any experience with them. I have always had pretty good luck with anything from TRF, but I know they are not perfect. But on the arm that does the engine rebuilds, any praise or horror stories? To read their descriptions, it's "LBC Engine Spa". Sloane :) 69-Six> > As others have stated, it depends. I have a '76 TR6 & I'm in Ulster county> NY. Back in 2001, after spinning a bearing, it cost me just under $4000> for the rebuild. I assume the same job will cost more now.> _________________________________________________________________ Watch Cause Effect, a show about real people making a real difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_watchcause From Vsnively at aol.com Thu Jan 10 06:21:07 2008 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 08:21:07 EST Subject: [6pack] Panasport advice sought Message-ID: Listers, I'm considering a set of Panasports for my '75 TR6. I currently have the stock pressed steel wheels installed. I have looked at a few Panasports on E-bay, and I understand the term offset. I am considering 205/70-15 tire size. Intentions are to retain the stock suspension. 1. What offset, if any, do I need ? 2. Can I retain the stock wheel studs, or do they need changed (lengthened ?) 3. What is the optimum rim width for this tire size ? 4. Any wheel source recommendations ? Thanks in advance. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 10 09:00:29 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 08:00:29 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding - Part 3? In-Reply-To: <75883.31235.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <75883.31235.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Rick: Yes, you can swap the 73 motor for the 72 motor. I don't remember at what point the factory went from the narrow port spacing on the head to the wider port spacing, so check to make certain that your 72 intake manifold will fit the later motor. I *think* it will fit just fine, but we all know what my memory is good for. Cripes, I am one step away from depends diapers most of the time, much less any good at remembering the details. As for how "Easy" it is to do, that depends on your definition of easy. It will be a "bolt in" swap. No special parts needed, no cutting or drilling. BUT, you need to remove the hood, yank some of the interior, unbolt the tranny, cooling and fuel system, get an engine hoist, etc. The tools needed are all basic items except for the engine hoist. If you are a cheap SOB like me, then a chain hoist tossed over the rafters or a stout tree limb will do instead of the engine hoist. $60 from my local hardware store, and it stores in shoebox. Can't beat that with a stick. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of richard olson Sent: January 09, 2008 9:08 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding - Part 3? OK - Short question: My '73 block/head are outside with 2 tarps. I clear and using with oil 2 days a year. Will I even had with the freezer? Can I take the '72 off and put in the '73? Will this be easy? RickO From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 10 07:45:25 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:45:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Engine Mounts Message-ID: <000001c85397$717fd7f0$210110ac@bobspc> I'll be replacing the engine mounts when I re-install the engine and am wondering about the differences between the TRF stock and competition mounts (http://tinyurl.com/36oqrd). Are there any other mounts out there that work really well and last longer? I'd love to find a mount that positioned the engine in such a way as to allow for fan belt changing. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1216 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 10:16 AM From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jan 10 09:43:53 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 11:43:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] So, How About That Weather... Message-ID: Hi, Sorry for the intrusion - my mail system broke in a major way, so I'm testing it out. rml p.s. I'm not sure which is more reliable, computers or TR6's :-) --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 10 11:29:57 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:29:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? Message-ID: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price adds up pretty fast. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1216 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 10:16 AM From palavagedrew at hotmail.com Thu Jan 10 11:42:37 2008 From: palavagedrew at hotmail.com (Drew Palavage) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:42:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] wiper switch In-Reply-To: <002701c853ae$4defb870$6b01a8c0@EvLapTop> References: <620105.41911.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <002701c853ae$4defb870$6b01a8c0@EvLapTop> Message-ID: I know this is probably an in demand item..but here goes anyway. Does anyone have a wiper switch for a "76 TR6. My switch works, but sometime ago the "stalk" that the knob fits onto cracked. I "repaired" it enough that it works okay. I now want to remove my dash to refinish it. I will not be able to do it w/o breaking the stalk again. I'm told that the replacement switch that's available out there is no good. Thanks _________________________________________________________________ Watch Cause Effect, a show about real people making a real difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_watchcause From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jan 10 11:44:29 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:44:29 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Thu, 10 Jan 2008, Bob Danielson wrote: > A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers > use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in > their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the > collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price > adds up pretty fast. I don't know of another source for this bolt. It's basically a grade 5 equiv, but the grip length is odd and the threaded portion is fairly short. I suspect that an AN6 bolt could be substituted, but I've never tried it. They also use a nylon insert nut (elastic stop nut) that's a tad shorter than a full height AN6 nut - but it's taller than a half-height AN6 nut. Go figure. $24 is a lot less than the damage you'll get if the bolts fail and your axles start flailing around. > Thanks > > Bob regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 10 13:00:47 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:00:47 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: I was completely ignorant of this when I reassembled my driveshaft and axles. I used standard Grade 8 hardware. So far no issues, but if you read my obituary and it says I died in a car crash, well, you will be able to guess what happened. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: January 10, 2008 10:30 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price adds up pretty fast. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1216 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 10:16 AM From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Thu Jan 10 13:03:14 2008 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 15:03:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TRF Carpet choices and Ground Cable Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809B64446@USCANCISNT05> Quick update I had circulated a question recently regarding a floating ground problem on my TR6. It was agreed that the ground cable should run from the battery negative ground down behind the accelerated peddle shaft and attached to the engine, at the lifting eye. This cable originally was uncovered braided brass and gets clamped to the body on route to the block. TRF confirmed they have this item and I have put it on order. Expense at $27 and it is backordered. I'll confirm it is correct for the list once received. New Question TRF has a 20% off list for carpet sets and I'd like to take advantage of this. I'm looking for feedback on there carpet. I have black and want a nice plush carpet recognizing that's not exactly period correct. Looks like there Wolton is the best stuff. Any comments from those that have this and is additional padding suggested. Thanks Darcy Hunter 1973 TR6 North Easton MA From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 10 13:02:46 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:02:46 -0800 Subject: [6pack] wiper switch In-Reply-To: References: <620105.41911.qm@web51603.mail.re2.yahoo.com><002701c853ae$4defb870$6b01a8c0@EvLapTop> Message-ID: Drew: These are difficult to come by in good condition. Even my LBC mechanic who has oodles of used parts was not able to get me one. I ended up going on eBay to get one, which has been fine. But how long before it breaks? I don't know, and they are prone to break. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Drew Palavage Sent: January 10, 2008 10:43 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] wiper switch I know this is probably an in demand item..but here goes anyway. Does anyone have a wiper switch for a "76 TR6. My switch works, but sometime ago the "stalk" that the knob fits onto cracked. I "repaired" it enough that it works okay. I now want to remove my dash to refinish it. I will not be able to do it w/o breaking the stalk again. I'm told that the replacement switch that's available out there is no good. Thanks From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jan 10 13:47:20 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:47:20 -0800 Subject: [6pack] wiper switch In-Reply-To: Drew Palavage 's message of Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:42:37 -0500 Message-ID: <14979-47868458-597@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Drew---The major suppliers of TR parts don't stock this later switch. Going to the earlier rocker type would mean carving up part of the dash. I've seen some that have left the original switch in, as a "dummy". (I assume the washer part still works as designed) A toggle switch was used under the dash for the wiper operation. My own wiper switch keyed shaft has also been repaired, so I know what you're talking about. Fortunately, we don't need the wipers much in So. Cal. Dick From: palavagedrew at hotmail.com(Drew Palavage) I know this is probably an in demand item..but here goes anyway. Does anyone have a wiper switch for a "76 TR6. My switch works, but sometime ago the "stalk" that the knob fits onto cracked. I "repaired" it enough that it works okay. I now want to remove my dash to refinish it. I will not be able to do it w/o breaking the stalk again. I'm told that the replacement switch that's available out there is no good. Thanks ______________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Jan 10 13:54:46 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 12:54:46 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Engine Mounts In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Thu, 10 Jan 2008 09:45:25 -0500 Message-ID: <14977-47868616-1920@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Bob---TRF's engine mounts work very well. When in place, you should have 9/16 inch between the steering rack (and cross brace) and the front pulley, to accomodate fan belt changing. My last mounts were changed in 2000, and the belt still slips in and out just like new!. Dick Bob wrote: I'll be replacing the engine mounts when I re-install the engine and am wondering about the differences between the TRF stock and competition mounts (http://tinyurl.com/36oqrd). Are there any other mounts out there that work really well and last longer? I'd love to find a mount that positioned the engine in such a way as to allow for fan belt changing. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jan 10 14:12:01 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 16:12:01 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: References: <000601c853b6$cf7713e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Thu, 10 Jan 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Bob: > > I was completely ignorant of this when I reassembled my > driveshaft and axles. I used standard Grade 8 hardware. So far no > issues, but if you read my obituary and it says I died in a car crash, > well, you will be able to guess what happened. Kool. Can I get the bits left over from the flaming crash. You know, in case I need some spare parts and all. :-) It's been a while, but I seem to recall going through a fitting exercise and trying to find appropriate bolts from another source. If I reall correctly, the problem wasn't so much that the bolts would fit but rather where the threads end up and whether that might contribute to possible failur eof the bolt after repeated strain. Of course, I have a funny feeling that our driving styles are not exactly the same. =:-0 > Vance rml p.s. do TWO TR6's if you want to see the costs mount! Especially as you get older and buy extras as "spares" and then forget that you have them, Somewhere in my basement, I have at least 2 or three sets of upper a-arm bushings. Ordinarily, that's no prob, but the race car uses heims joints so the "extras" represent _more_ than a lifetime's worth of spares for that part. Yikes! --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 6parts at charter.net Thu Jan 10 14:20:29 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 16:20:29 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Panasport advice sought References: Message-ID: <005e01c853ce$a01cf5c0$03d30c47@alan> I got my 16" Panasports from Paul Spruel in GA. At the time that was a pretty good price. Depending on what sale Charles has going on you might want to check with TRF. If you buy fromeither of them you'll get the correct size. The offset is 0, the width of the rim is 7 inches. You do not have to change studs, but you will need to order the wheel nuts that go with the Panasports. If you go to my site at triumphowners, you'll see some more wheel choices. Cheers Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 8:21 AM Subject: [6pack] Panasport advice sought > Listers, > > I'm considering a set of Panasports for my '75 TR6. I currently have the > stock pressed steel wheels installed. I have looked at a few Panasports on > E-bay, and I understand the term offset. I am considering 205/70-15 tire > size. > Intentions are to retain the stock suspension. > > 1. What offset, if any, do I need ? > 2. Can I retain the stock wheel studs, or do they need changed (lengthened > ?) > 3. What is the optimum rim width for this tire size ? > 4. Any wheel source recommendations ? > > Thanks in advance. From rclark at robertsonclark.com Thu Jan 10 14:31:04 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:31:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: Bob, Is there are reason why you are replacing the original nuts and bolts other than to have nice new hardware? Is there some indication that these bolts need replacement or are prone to failure? It seems the weak link in our cars is the u-joint and failure of all 4 flange bolts at one time is quite remote. Bob Clark '69 TR6 Bob: I was completely ignorant of this when I reassembled my driveshaft and axles. I used standard Grade 8 hardware. So far no issues, but if you read my obituary and it says I died in a car crash, well, you will be able to guess what happened. Vance A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price adds up pretty fast. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From trsix74 at comcast.net Thu Jan 10 15:26:24 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:26:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding - Part 3? In-Reply-To: References: <75883.31235.qm@web37514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001c853d7$d775e140$6601a8c0@Robert> I rebuilt a TR6 engine six years back. Head complete including guides, valves, hardened seats, new springs etc. Removed everything from the block, Machine shop did all the polishing, bore to +.020, polished and balanced crank and flywheel, new clutch and plates, cooked and magnafluxed, I did the rebuild myself with all new stuff including new pistons, rings, bearings, pump. When it was all said and done I domed it with a silver powder coated valve cover. It cost $2346.88 for all the parts and machine shop work. The experience was priceless. For everything else there was MasterCard. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 10 15:17:00 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:17:00 EST Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/10/2008 4:43:09 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, rclark at robertsonclark.com writes: Is there are reason why you are replacing the original nuts and bolts other than to have nice new hardware? The nuts are nylocs and should be replaced David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jan 10 15:31:16 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 17:31:16 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Thu, 10 Jan 2008, Robert N. Clark wrote: > Bob, > > Is there are reason why you are replacing the original nuts and bolts > other than to have nice new hardware? Is there some indication that > these bolts need replacement or are prone to failure? It seems the weak > link in our cars is the u-joint and failure of all 4 flange bolts at one > time is quite remote. FWIW - you're not really supposed to re-use the bolts. ALl of us do, but you're not supposed to. They do fail. If they loosen up, the flanges will ding them and they will crack. > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 10 17:16:57 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:16:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <002801c853e7$4943a5a0$210110ac@bobspc> Bob, Let's see...... New 5 speed tranny, shortened and balanced drive shaft, Nissan Diff with Goodparts' upgrade kit and all new u-joints mean the bolts & nuts would be the oldest part of the drive train. Plus.....getting them off was a bitch and some got a "little" rounded in the wrenching process. So I figure now is the time to fix it all up. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Robert N. Clark [mailto:rclark at robertsonclark.com] Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 4:31 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? Bob, Is there are reason why you are replacing the original nuts and bolts other than to have nice new hardware? Is there some indication that these bolts need replacement or are prone to failure? It seems the weak link in our cars is the u-joint and failure of all 4 flange bolts at one time is quite remote. Bob Clark '69 TR6 Bob: I was completely ignorant of this when I reassembled my driveshaft and axles. I used standard Grade 8 hardware. So far no issues, but if you read my obituary and it says I died in a car crash, well, you will be able to guess what happened. Vance A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price adds up pretty fast. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1216 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 10:16 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1216 - Release Date: 1/9/2008 10:16 AM From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 10 17:33:34 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:33:34 EST Subject: [6pack] Rebuilding - Part 3? Message-ID: In a message dated 1/10/2008 6:01:23 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: For everything else there was MasterCard Six years ago? Ought to be paid off now, huh? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From johnehorton at yahoo.com Thu Jan 10 19:25:29 2008 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 18:25:29 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Hub bolts Message-ID: <478039.62008.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I am in need of 24 hub bolts. Preferably new or old stock. I have tried the standard suppliers and come up with almost $5.00 EACH. Any suggestions. John 76 TR6 --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From gary.fluke at verizon.net Thu Jan 10 20:42:00 2008 From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 19:42:00 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline Message-ID: <1ab301c85403$ecb4b500$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Fellow motorists, Don't worry too much about the current price of fuel. For all of the talking, shouting, screaming and politicizing about the price of gasoline, please consider this in context. I'm going to compare the price of gasoline today to the price in 1958, when gasoline was considered to be so cheap that Americans could afford to drive heavy, flashy cars with little consideration of fuel economy. The average annual wage in 1958 was $3,674 and the average price of gasoline was $0.284 per gallon. The current average annual wage of about $40,000 is about eleven times that of 1958. Eleven times $0.284 is $3.124, which is very close to the price of a gallon of regular gasoline here in Washington State where the price of gasoline is high. Gasoline is still cheap and for most vehicles a small portion of the cost of ownership and operation! Also, gasoline is a commodity, so people shouldn't get all shook-up when the price goes up and down. By the way, have you ever heard these numbers mentioned by anyone in our national media? I believe that's a reflection of how reliable and honest the so called journalists we have these days are. Gary '73 From sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com Thu Jan 10 21:16:27 2008 From: sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com (Steve Thornton) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 22:16:27 -0600 Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild Message-ID: <894814762C6AC84896B8CC3C72CDD2BB0396A0@SOTSERVER.stevethorntonlaw.local> Dennis et al- I have had 2 engines rebuilt by TRF's CAR Components. First, they rebuilt a 71 TR6 engine and now a TR250 engine. As a repeat customer I can recommend them. My TR6 engine was for a concours restoration and I wanted everything perfect. Some of the things I rebuilt on the car needed later attention, but not the motor. I have not finished the TR 250 yet, so I cannot comment on it, but judging from the TR6, it is value for your money. My feeling is that having someone rebuild that engine who does it weekly, beats a better mechanic who might be doing it for the first and last time. If results count, I am a happy customer. Steve Thornton Bowling Green, KY -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+sothornton=stevethorntonlaw.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im sloane Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 7:28 AM To: Dennis N Culligan; rccpl1 at yahoo.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] engine rebuild I don't want to hi-jack Rick's other tread where he mentions a rebuild from TRF's C.A.R.S, but I was wondering if anybody has had any experience with them. I have always had pretty good luck with anything from TRF, but I know they are not perfect. But on the arm that does the engine rebuilds, any praise or horror stories? To read their descriptions, it's "LBC Engine Spa". Sloane :) 69-Six> > As others have stated, it depends. I have a '76 TR6 & I'm in Ulster county> NY. Back in 2001, after spinning a bearing, it cost me just under $4000> for the rebuild. I assume the same job will cost more now.> _________________________________________________________________ Watch Cause Effect, a show about real people making a real difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_watchcause 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as sothornton at stevethorntonlaw.com No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1218 - Release Date: 1/10/2008 1:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.0/1218 - Release Date: 1/10/2008 1:32 PM From mdporter at dfn.com Thu Jan 10 21:24:57 2008 From: mdporter at dfn.com (Michael Porter) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 21:24:57 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline In-Reply-To: <1ab301c85403$ecb4b500$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> References: <1ab301c85403$ecb4b500$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Message-ID: <4786EF99.4080405@dfn.com> Gary Fluke wrote: > Fellow motorists, > > Don't worry too much about the current price of fuel. For all of the talking, > shouting, screaming and politicizing about the price of gasoline, please > consider this in context. I'm going to compare the price > of gasoline today to the price in 1958, when gasoline was considered to be so > cheap that Americans could afford to drive heavy, flashy cars with little > consideration of fuel economy. > > The average annual wage in 1958 was $3,674 and the average price of gasoline > was $0.284 per gallon. The current average annual wage of about $40,000 is > about eleven times that of 1958. Eleven times $0.284 is $3.124, which is very > close to the price of a gallon of regular gasoline here in Washington State > where the price of gasoline is high. > > > This makes some uneconomic assumptions. In fact, a better indicator would be the actual rate of inflation, which, from 1958 to 2006 is a factor of 6.92. Other sources show an average cost of gasoline of $0.24/gal. in 1958, but, in oil-producing regions of the country, the cost was much less than 24 cents a gallon, so, perhaps it averages out to 24 cents. If so, a gallon of gasoline, using the actual rate of inflation as a multiplier, should be $1.66. These assumptions also use average wages, which are not representative of most wage earners, since averages are skewed by large incomes at the top of the income scale--a much greater bias today than in 1958, since the top 1% of earners today garner about 22% of total income, whereas in 1958, this figure was closer to 13%. The top 0.1% today have about 7% of total income, whereas in 1958, the figure was about 2.3%. Statistically, median family and individual incomes would be a better indicator. Let's also remember that for the bottom 30% or so of wage earners, their income hasn't kept up with inflation since the early `70s, so transportation fuel costs for that segment of the population are a considerably greater share of take-home income than for those in the upper half of the income distribution. Cheers. -- Michael Porter Roswell, NM Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking distance.... From bratt at sasktel.net Thu Jan 10 21:47:59 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Thu, 10 Jan 2008 22:47:59 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline References: <1ab301c85403$ecb4b500$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Message-ID: <003901c8540d$243a07b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Gary: The missing factor seems to me to be TAXES. How were the taxes, including payroll taxes, back in 1968 compared to today? When taxes come into the picture, the values in each case would have to be adjusted to pre-all-tax dollars for fair comparison. This might tell you the importance of taxes in the scheme of things: I was reading a car magazine which said Ferrari was opening 47 showrooms in China. Knowing that this was a much higher number than there are in America, I wondered how they could afford to run 47 Ferrari showrooms in China, simply because it would take a lot of Chinese buyers to make even one showroom viable, and we are constantly reminded that the Communist Chinese are supposedly oppressed, stiffled and poor. So I asked John, my Chinese neighbor. He was born in China, and worked for a San Francisco company until he retired here in Regina, Saskatchewan, a few years ago. He has also lived in Britain in the past. His very first car was a Landrover. "John", I asked, "How can Chinese buyers afford to buy a new car?" Johns replied, "Most Chinese live in a cottage with enough land to grow some of their own food, and they can make a little extra money selling any surplus". "Many people do not trust banks, so they keep their money at home." "About 80 percent of new car sales are for cash". "The buyer brings his cash into the showroom". "An average car sells for around $26,000.00". "But how can they afford that?", I asked "I know wages are lower than here, but Chinese workers look for a job with more hours, and more days in a work week". "Some even work 6 1/2 days a week." "And besides that, in China taxes are very, very, low." Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Fluke" To: "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 9:42 PM Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline From lfm614 at aol.com Thu Jan 10 22:05:10 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 05:05:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline Message-ID: <147372659-1200028039-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1436458229-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Wow...... I guess I just look at it in simple terms. Gas at $3.00 a gallon causes a rukus but $1.50 for a 16 oz bottle of water is readily accepted. At that rate a gallon of bottled water costs $12.00. Now gas is mostly imported, goes through a sophisticated distillation process and is very hazardous to distribute. Bottled water is usually made from local or non-imported water that is filtered, bottled and shipped in half a cardboard box. . Does this make sense? Sounds like gas is still a deal, maybe not as good of a deal as it was but a much better deal than bottled water. Of course if you really want to feel good, figure it against your double shot Starbucks mocca latte....... Lou From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 11 07:50:48 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 09:50:48 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Hub bolts In-Reply-To: <478039.62008.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <478039.62008.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Thu, 10 Jan 2008 johnehorton at yahoo.com wrote: > I am in need of 24 hub bolts. Preferably new or old stock. I have > tried the standard suppliers and come up with almost $5.00 EACH. Any > suggestions. What part are we talking about here? Front hub? Rear hub? Hub of the Universe? > John 76 TR6 regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From sakirsis at consolidated.net Fri Jan 11 08:48:15 2008 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 09:48:15 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Triumph World Message-ID: <000801c85469$61184960$6501a8c0@MomandDad> Just got my Jan/Feb edition of Triumph World magazine and there is a great article on Joe Grant and his TR-6. Is this the same Joe Grant from our group? Quite a car. The work of an expert. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Jan 11 10:57:16 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 12:57:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Triumph World In-Reply-To: <000801c85469$61184960$6501a8c0@MomandDad> References: <000801c85469$61184960$6501a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: <000f01c8547b$6853eba0$38fbc2e0$@com> That would be me indeed! This is great news... Thanks for letting everyone know. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Steve Kirsis Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 10:48 To: '6pack' Subject: [6pack] Triumph World Just got my Jan/Feb edition of Triumph World magazine and there is a great article on Joe Grant and his TR-6. Is this the same Joe Grant from our group? Quite a car. The work of an expert. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Fri Jan 11 13:16:20 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 12:16:20 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TRF CAR Rebuild Message-ID: <964258.73899.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> So, what's it cost to get them to do the rebuild? Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 TBI --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Fri Jan 11 13:29:49 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 12:29:49 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline In-Reply-To: <1ab301c85403$ecb4b500$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Message-ID: <000701c85490$b687b530$b1191718@computer> Gary, I agree with you completely not that I wouldn't like $2 a gallon gas. I do know the rule of thumb to be that things cost approx. 10X what they did in the 50s and the today's money is worth approx. 1/10 of what it was then. Jim -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Gary Fluke Sent: Thursday, January 10, 2008 7:42 PM To: Six Pack Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline Fellow motorists, Don't worry too much about the current price of fuel. For all of the talking, shouting, screaming and politicizing about the price of gasoline, please consider this in context. I'm going to compare the price of gasoline today to the price in 1958, when gasoline was considered to be so cheap that Americans could afford to drive heavy, flashy cars with little consideration of fuel economy. The average annual wage in 1958 was $3,674 and the average price of gasoline was $0.284 per gallon. The current average annual wage of about $40,000 is about eleven times that of 1958. Eleven times $0.284 is $3.124, which is very close to the price of a gallon of regular gasoline here in Washington State where the price of gasoline is high. Gasoline is still cheap and for most vehicles a small portion of the cost of ownership and operation! Also, gasoline is a commodity, so people shouldn't get all shook-up when the price goes up and down. By the way, have you ever heard these numbers mentioned by anyone in our national media? I believe that's a reflection of how reliable and honest the so called journalists we have these days are. Gary '73 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jan 11 13:32:14 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 12:32:14 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TRF Carpet choices and Ground Cable In-Reply-To: "Hunter, Darcy" 's message of Thu, 10 Jan 2008 15:03:14 -0500 Message-ID: <23354-4787D24E-319@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Darcy---It sounds like you will be getting the correct ground strap. On the Wilton carpet...I installed this in my own car about 10 years ago, and it is holding up well. (After some initial fuzzing) Know that it is anything but thick and plush. New padding is recommended to give protection and softness to the carpet. Dick From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com(Hunter, Darcy) I had circulated a question recently regarding a floating ground problem on my TR6. It was agreed that the ground cable should run from the battery negative ground down behind the accelerated peddle shaft and attached to the engine, at the lifting eye. This cable originally was uncovered braided brass and gets clamped to the body on route to the block. TRF confirmed they have this item and I have put it on order. Expense at $27 and it is backordered. I'll confirm it is correct for the list once received. New Question TRF has a 20% off list for carpet sets and I'd like to take advantage of this. I'm looking for feedback on there carpet. I have black and want a nice plush carpet recognizing that's not exactly period correct. Looks like there Wolton is the best stuff. Any comments from those that have this and is additional padding suggested. Thanks Darcy Hunter 1973 TR6 North Easton MA ______________________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jan 11 13:52:49 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 12:52:49 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? In-Reply-To: "Robert N. Clark" 's message of Thu, 10 Jan 2008 13:31:04 -0800 Message-ID: <23358-4787D721-109@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> If you are "sensitive" to changes in the way your TR behaves, you should feel anything happening to the bolts in the drive train. i.e. A guy brought me his '69 a year or so ago and asked me to drive it. He said it had a strange vibration in it. Indeed. All four of the tranny flange to propshaft flange bolts were about to fall out. Unbalanced parts, big time. They were garden variety hardware bolts and nuts, with threads clear up to the head (Altho worn down) Two of them were 5/16". The point is that I agree with Robert C. It is unlikely that a (breakdown) failure should occur before the driver notices that all is not well. The original flange bolts are extremely tough and could last the life of the car, if not allowed to loosen and stress themselves. Replacing the nyloc nuts will give more confidence that failure is unlikely. Dick From: rclark at robertsonclark.com(Robert N. Clark) Date: Thu, Jan 10, 2008, 1:31pm To: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance), 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson), 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Special Bolts Needed? Bob, Is there are reason why you are replacing the original nuts and bolts other than to have nice new hardware? Is there some indication that these bolts need replacement or are prone to failure? It seems the weak link in our cars is the u-joint and failure of all 4 flange bolts at one time is quite remote. Bob Clark '69 TR6 Bob: I was completely ignorant of this when I reassembled my driveshaft and axles. I used standard Grade 8 hardware. So far no issues, but if you read my obituary and it says I died in a car crash, well, you will be able to guess what happened. Vance A while ago there was a discussion about the special bolts that TR6 calipers use, but how about the driveshaft and axle flange bolts? TRF lists them in their catalog as "Special Bolt # 107960". Is this another example of the collar being a unique size relative to the thread? At a $1.50 each the price adds up pretty fast. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ______________________________________ From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 11 14:33:26 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 16:33:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TRF CAR Rebuild In-Reply-To: <964258.73899.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <964258.73899.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 11 Jan 2008, michael lunsford wrote: > rebuilt a 71 > TR6 engine and now a TR250 engine. As a repeat customer I can recommend > them.> > > So, what's it cost to get them to do the rebuild? Isn't that question sort of like going to the race track and asking the race car dude with a woman in each arm "which on is your wife?" :-0 > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 TBI rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From GSFuqua1 at aol.com Fri Jan 11 15:01:26 2008 From: GSFuqua1 at aol.com (GSFuqua1 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 17:01:26 EST Subject: [6pack] Part Needed Message-ID: I am nearing completion of a 64 Concours TR 4. The one piece of the dash I am in desperate need of is the Plinth that houses the various switches, cables, etc. The plastic part. Moss # 633-400 I have the old one but it is in very bad shape. Anyone have something that could help me out? Thanks, Gary Fuqua Classic Sports Cars Branson, MO _gsfuqua1 at aol.com_ (mailto:gsfuqua1 at aol.com) **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From DLylis at aol.com Fri Jan 11 19:32:07 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 21:32:07 EST Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline Message-ID: Man, you really take the fun out of bitching about the price of gas. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Fri Jan 11 19:58:42 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 18:58:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <455410.14414.qm@web33512.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Well said!!! LOL!!! On some occasions we may complain. Other times we'll gripe. But there those time we just wanna bitch!! After all, we ARE Americans. Cheers! Jim DLylis at aol.com wrote: Man, you really take the fun out of bitching about the price of gas. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From gary.fluke at verizon.net Sat Jan 12 00:11:00 2008 From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke) Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2008 23:11:00 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline References: <455410.14414.qm@web33512.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <003c01c854ea$495fba70$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> David gets it, for sure. I just can't stand belly aching over such things in this great country where even average people have more material things then they have time for. Gary ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jim Jones" To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, January 11, 2008 6:58 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline > Well said!!! LOL!!! > > On some occasions we may complain. Other times we'll gripe. But there > those time we just wanna bitch!! > > After all, we ARE Americans. > > Cheers! > Jim > > DLylis at aol.com wrote: > Man, you really take the fun out of bitching about the price of gas. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as gary.fluke at verizon.net From otral at juno.com Sat Jan 12 11:25:58 2008 From: otral at juno.com (alan g graffam) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:25:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Short found /damn alternator Message-ID: <20080112.132559.1272.0.otral@juno.com> Listers, I finally tracked down my longtime short and the alternator has a &^%$#$% problem. This makes three of these suckers in less than a year. I'm keeping it and having it fixed by an American. Al Graffam From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 12 08:46:42 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:46:42 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066CFC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Throughout the TR6 there are various times where black PVC like sleeve material is used to buffer the wiring. We see it for the wires coming through the inner wing for the headlamps and we see it covering the metal tabs all over the engine bay that secure the loom. Do we have a source for that black PVC sleeve or any suggestions for a viable alternative ? Stan From N197TR4 at cs.com Sat Jan 12 11:54:23 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:54:23 EST Subject: [6pack] Official Press Release for Triumphs @ Watkins Glen 2008 (SVRA) Message-ID: For a really nice version of this press release go to: ClassicMotorsports.net/kastner-cup Please feel to use this press release in any and all publications related to Club Activities. Thanks Joe A ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ -------------------------------------------- For release: Immediately Classic Motorsports magazine presents the Kastner Cup Vintage Race It's like a planetary alignment for Triumph fans, only way cooler, since you can actually see it: Hundreds of historic Triumphs from around the globe are converging on Watkins Glen September 3-7 for the Kastner Cup Vintage Race, presented by Classic Motorsports magazine and Moss Motors. Among the luminaries will be the famed Group 44 factory race cars, the first production Triumph sports car, and - of course - Kas Kastner, the legendary Triumph tuner, racer and head of the North American Triumph Competition Department. It's all part of the Sportscar Vintage Racing Association's U.S. Vintage Grand Prix, the Grand Prix the largest vintage race weekend in the east. Kastner will present the Kastner Cup to the racer who best embodies the spirit of the marque and the event for the award. He'll also be on hand to assist racers and talk to fans of the marque. TS01, a 1953 TR2 that holds the distinction of being the first production Triumph sports car off the line, will also be there. Joe Richards, who painstakingly restored TSO1 to its historic original specs, will be honored by Friends of Triumph, the North America-based group of Triumph racers and race fans. Triumph enthusiasts and racers will also be welcomed into the Friends of Triumph Hospitality Tent and into the town of Watkins Glen, where the local Chamber of Commerce organizes the yearly Grand Prix Festival on Friday. Triumph enthusiasts have an opportunity to enter in a Triumph-only road rally, and selected SVRA race cars will make a trip down from the track, park on display, and then take parade laps of the original 6.6 mile street circuit. For more information on this amazing weekend of vintage and historic racing go to ClassicMotorsports.net/kastner-cup or contact Tim Baxter at baxter at classicmotorsports.net. Classic Motorsports, now in its 20th year of publication, is the hands-on magazine for the classic sports car enthusiast who appreciates the past but lives in the present. Anyone interested in obtaining a free sample of Classic Motorsports can request one through our Web site, classicmotorsports.net. For quicker service, please call the magazine's offices at (800) 520-8292. From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 12:08:02 2008 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 12:08:02 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TRF Carpet choices and Ground Cable In-Reply-To: <23354-4787D24E-319@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> References: <23354-4787D24E-319@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Darcy, I got the Wilton wool set, shadow blue, from TRF last July. I am very happy with the look, fit and quality. It went in very easy and I only trimmed one piece less than an inch to install. I would not hesitate to purchase this set again. I removed the old pad and instead installed a noise, heat, vibration blocking product from Second Skin called Damplifier Pro that I am also very happy with. Several people who have ridden in the car since then have commented about how solid the car sounds. There are a couple of pics at http://www.triumphowners.com/798 Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Jan 12 12:51:34 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 11:51:34 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:46:42 +0000 Message-ID: <29270-47891A46-1036@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> Stan---When repainting my engine bay, I replaced all of these tab sleeves. I found them in packets at Kragen auto parts, altho no doubt could be found at any major supplier. Maybe even a TR parts supplier? They come in assorted colors. Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, Jan 12, 2008, 3:46pm (PST+8) To: 6pack at autox.team.net (6pack \(6pack\)) Subject: [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? Throughout the TR6 there are various times where black PVC like sleeve material is used to buffer the wiring. We see it for the wires coming through the inner wing for the headlamps and we see it covering the metal tabs all over the engine bay that secure the loom. Do we have a source for that black PVC sleeve or any suggestions for a viable alternative ? Stan ______________________________________ From bobfabie at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 13:08:14 2008 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:08:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066CFC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066CFC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: I've used shrink-tubing (without heating it) and it looks identical to the original. It comes in various types, colors and diameters. What I purchased had a glossy finish and it looks very nice. Hope this works for you. Bob '75 TR6 On Jan 12, 2008 10:46 AM, Foster, Stan wrote: > Throughout the TR6 there are various times where black PVC like sleeve > material is used to buffer the wiring. We see it for the wires coming > through > the inner wing for the headlamps and we see it covering the metal tabs all > over the engine bay that secure the loom. Do we have a source for that > black > PVC sleeve or any suggestions for a viable alternative ? > > Stan > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com From jsvannorman at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 13:54:27 2008 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 15:54:27 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? Message-ID: Stan, Try some black heat shrink wrap - you know the stuff you use in place of electrical tape - except don't shrink it with heat. I used that on the metal tabs in my engine bay. Probably not cost effective if you have to replace a ton, but if you have a few places here and there, it works, especially if you were like me and already had some of it. John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 Throughout the TR6 there are various times where black PVC like sleeve material is used to buffer the wiring. We see it for the wires coming through the inner wing for the headlamps and we see it covering the metal tabs all over the engine bay that secure the loom. Do we have a source for that black PVC sleeve or any suggestions for a viable alternative ? Stan -- www.vannorman.no-ip.org From bobfabie at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 14:35:46 2008 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 16:35:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool Message-ID: Can someone recommend the best tool for removal of the window crank and inside door handle? Will a "conventional" window crank removal tool work, i.e., one that is designed for a GM product, work? Thanks Bob Fabie '75 TR6 From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Jan 12 16:10:37 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 23:10:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool Message-ID: <1518898935-1200179566-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-795190408-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> A small punch or long thin nail will work to push out the pin. It is the diameter of a wire coat hanger. Lou ------Original Message------ From: robert fabie Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Jan 12, 2008 3:35 PM Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool Can someone recommend the best tool for removal of the window crank and inside door handle? Will a "conventional" window crank removal tool work, i.e., one that is designed for a GM product, work? Thanks Bob Fabie '75 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From bobfabie at gmail.com Sat Jan 12 16:26:35 2008 From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 18:26:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool In-Reply-To: <1518898935-1200179566-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-795190408-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <1518898935-1200179566-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-795190408-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: Thanks, Lou, but the tool I need is the one that separates the door panel from the window crank in order to expose the pin. Any ideas on that tool? Thanks again. Bob On Jan 12, 2008 6:10 PM, wrote: > A small punch or long thin nail will work to push out the pin. It is the > diameter of a wire coat hanger. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: robert fabie > Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net > To: TR-6 list > Sent: Jan 12, 2008 3:35 PM > Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool > > Can someone recommend the best tool for removal of the window crank and > inside door handle? Will a "conventional" window crank removal tool work, > i.e., one that is designed for a GM product, work? > > Thanks > Bob Fabie > '75 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Jan 12 17:43:00 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:43:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline In-Reply-To: <003c01c854ea$495fba70$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> References: <455410.14414.qm@web33512.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <003c01c854ea$495fba70$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Message-ID: <8CA239461B908CC-156C-35F1@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> Well, I have resisted up to this point but I thought I would offer my incredibly cheap opinion.? I dont disagree with what has been said up to this point but the one thing that bothers me so much is that the price is so dependent upon speculation, rather than any hard facts.? If there is a freeze in Florida then the price of orange juice might go up to reflect the increased cost of the product.? I dont see the same correlation with oil.? The supply and demand is controlled to maintain profits.? And speaking of profits, the oil companies are making record profits nowadays and there is no control of what they make.? Normally in a supply and demand economy the public would have the choice of choosing not to purchase a product that the public thought was overpriced.? Not driving or heating your home isnt a realistic choice for the vast majority of Americans so we have no ability to put pressure on the oil companies.? The politicians make loud noises about "investigating" big oil companies and receive the big headlines when they do.? But I never seem to see any results, just announcements that they are forming a committee etc.? Big news when they announce they are investigating, but never any results or answers.? I am not a fan of increased bureaucracy but it would be nice to just allow the big oil companies to make a decent profit, rather than obscene. My two cents, worth much less with inflation and impossible to pump two cents in today's oil climate. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Gary Fluke To: Six Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 2:11 am Subject: Re: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline David gets it, for sure. I just can't stand belly aching over such things in this great country where even average people have more material things then they have time for. Gary ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Sat Jan 12 17:54:20 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 19:54:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline In-Reply-To: <8CA239461B908CC-156C-35F1@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> References: <455410.14414.qm@web33512.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <003c01c854ea$495fba70$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> <8CA239461B908CC-156C-35F1@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <043B0E53-C6CA-4505-AD09-12EBD3DC51D7@mindspring.com> I think this topic, while interesting, is approaching the point of "how is this Triumph or LBC related?" Ashford Little 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 12 18:33:53 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 01:33:53 +0000 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool In-Reply-To: References: <1518898935-1200179566-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-795190408-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066D15@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Take said punch, wrap some electrical tape around all but an inch from the end to buffer the plastic disk (or not..), then using a wide blade stubby screwdriver lever the disk/crank gently apart to reveal the pin. You can push the disk towards the door panel with your other hand to assist it. Insert end of punch into the hole, remove stubby screwdriver and gently knock out the pin. When the pin is finally ejected the whole lot will go "poing" and fall on the floor. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert fabie Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 6:27 PM To: lfm614 at aol.com Cc: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] window crank removal tool Thanks, Lou, but the tool I need is the one that separates the door panel from the window crank in order to expose the pin. Any ideas on that tool? Thanks again. Bob On Jan 12, 2008 6:10 PM, wrote: > A small punch or long thin nail will work to push out the pin. It is the > diameter of a wire coat hanger. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: robert fabie > Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net > To: TR-6 list > Sent: Jan 12, 2008 3:35 PM > Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool > > Can someone recommend the best tool for removal of the window crank and > inside door handle? Will a "conventional" window crank removal tool work, > i.e., one that is designed for a GM product, work? > > Thanks > Bob Fabie > '75 TR6 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 12 18:51:17 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 20:51:17 -0500 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801c85586$cb4207e0$210110ac@bobspc> Bob, There's a good picture of the pin you have to remove here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm As someone mentioned it comes out with a thin punch/drift. My pictures show the re-installing process. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert fabie Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 4:36 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool Can someone recommend the best tool for removal of the window crank and inside door handle? Will a "conventional" window crank removal tool work, i.e., one that is designed for a GM product, work? Thanks Bob Fabie '75 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 12 18:54:25 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 20:54:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool In-Reply-To: References: <1518898935-1200179566-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-795190408-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <000901c85587$3cf1bac0$210110ac@bobspc> Bob, I think I just used a wide screwdriver for this though you probably could use the door panel remover tool. I use that tool for removing the panel from the door. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert fabie Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 6:27 PM To: lfm614 at aol.com Cc: TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] window crank removal tool Thanks, Lou, but the tool I need is the one that separates the door panel from the window crank in order to expose the pin. Any ideas on that tool? Thanks again. Bob On Jan 12, 2008 6:10 PM, wrote: > A small punch or long thin nail will work to push out the pin. It is > the diameter of a wire coat hanger. > > Lou > ------Original Message------ > From: robert fabie > Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net > To: TR-6 list > Sent: Jan 12, 2008 3:35 PM > Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool > > Can someone recommend the best tool for removal of the window crank > and inside door handle? Will a "conventional" window crank removal > tool work, i.e., one that is designed for a GM product, work? > > Thanks > Bob Fabie > '75 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM From grant at bowtie6.com Sat Jan 12 18:59:08 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 20:59:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool In-Reply-To: <000801c85586$cb4207e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000801c85586$cb4207e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <002501c85587$e285e1f0$a791a5d0$@com> I have heard another possible way to do this is with a coat hanger. I have not personally used the coat hanger approach, but it makes sense. BTW, if you don't have a pair of hemostats in your toolbox (as suggested by Bob's website) you need to get a set. They are readily available on eBay and cheap. Great tools to have. I bought both a straight one and a curved tip... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 20:51 To: 'robert fabie'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] window crank removal tool Bob, There's a good picture of the pin you have to remove here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm As someone mentioned it comes out with a thin punch/drift. My pictures show the re-installing process. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Jan 12 19:04:33 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 02:04:33 +0000 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool In-Reply-To: <002501c85587$e285e1f0$a791a5d0$@com> References: <000801c85586$cb4207e0$210110ac@bobspc><002501c85587$e285e1f0$a791a5d0$@com> Message-ID: <2033712465-1200190003-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2084683282-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Hanger works great. Have 2 doors to prove it. I've done it all kinds of ways its hangers from now on. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Joseph Grant" Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 20:59:08 To:"'Bob Danielson'" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>, "'robert fabie'", <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] window crank removal tool I have heard another possible way to do this is with a coat hanger. I have not personally used the coat hanger approach, but it makes sense. BTW, if you don't have a pair of hemostats in your toolbox (as suggested by Bob's website) you need to get a set. They are readily available on eBay and cheap. Great tools to have. I bought both a straight one and a curved tip... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 20:51 To: 'robert fabie'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] window crank removal tool Bob, There's a good picture of the pin you have to remove here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm As someone mentioned it comes out with a thin punch/drift. My pictures show the re-installing process. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Jan 12 20:54:48 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 22:54:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Today's price of gasoline In-Reply-To: <043B0E53-C6CA-4505-AD09-12EBD3DC51D7@mindspring.com> References: <455410.14414.qm@web33512.mail.mud.yahoo.com><003c01c854ea$495fba70$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw><8CA239461B908CC-156C-35F1@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> <043B0E53-C6CA-4505-AD09-12EBD3DC51D7@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <000d01c85598$0c9991c0$6601a8c0@Robert> Snip >I think this topic, while interesting, is approaching the point of "how is this Triumph or LBC related?" Ashford Little 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 Thanks. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From apackard68 at comcast.net Sat Jan 12 21:47:02 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 20:47:02 -0800 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool In-Reply-To: <000801c85586$cb4207e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080113044809.8E6AD187A0C@autox.team.net> List: Personally, I use a gasket scraper from NAPA that is about 3/4" wide both to pry back the disk and door panel and pop the clips holding the panel in place. When the door panel is pushed in, I use a small Phillips or an ice pick to push out the pin. Then I look fast to see where the sound of the pin hitting the floor is coming from. Andy -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 5:51 PM To: 'robert fabie'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] window crank removal tool Bob, There's a good picture of the pin you have to remove here http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm As someone mentioned it comes out with a thin punch/drift. My pictures show the re-installing process. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of robert fabie Sent: Saturday, January 12, 2008 4:36 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool Can someone recommend the best tool for removal of the window crank and inside door handle? Will a "conventional" window crank removal tool work, i.e., one that is designed for a GM product, work? Thanks Bob Fabie '75 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.1/1220 - Release Date: 1/11/2008 6:09 PM From PeterSchop at aol.com Sat Jan 12 23:30:13 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 01:30:13 EST Subject: [6pack] TR6 - Help diff-pin measurment Message-ID: I'm in the process of replacing the front set of differential mount pins and brackets on my '69 TR6. I have already removed the pins and brackets and will be welding the new ones on in the morning. I need to know what the d istance is from the bottom of the bracket to the taper on the threads of the pin. Also, what is the distance from the bottom of the diff bridge to the bottom of the pins? The ones I took off appear to be 1 3/4". Can that be correct? I'm putting on poly mount bushings. When I put the two bushings together, they are 1 7/8" plus the thickness of the washer and the diff yoke bracket. I do not think that the poly bushing will compress. This measurement is critical. If it is too small, I will not be able to put the nut on and if it is too great, I will have free play. TIA Peter Schoppelry PS... Please answer direct as I am in digest mode. **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Jan 13 02:15:31 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 09:15:31 -0000 Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool References: <1518898935-1200179566-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-795190408-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066D15@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <009201c855c4$d8ac4a60$0201a8c0@Bevan> Stan Foster wrote: >When the pin is finally ejected the whole lot will go "poing" and fall on > the floor. Ah yes, an experience much related to elderly vehicles and not necessarily restricted to Triumphs or the mere issue of removing windows winders Jonmac From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 13 07:05:59 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 09:05:59 EST Subject: [6pack] window crank removal tool Message-ID: In a message dated 1/12/2008 11:48:31 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, apackard68 at comcast.net writes: Then I look fast to see where the sound of the pin hitting the floor is coming from. Forget it. Leave it there and sweep it up. Trying to put that thing back in only adds to my drinking problem. I just use a nail of the correct diameter, file the point off and notch it at the correct length. Slip it into place an snap it off at the notch. Throw the rest of the nail away with the pin. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 13 18:30:06 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:30:06 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Message-ID: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> This goes under the "what were they thinking" category. The frame of the TR6 grill has a plastic coating of some sort which is, in turn, covered with a chrome piece. The plastic probably seemed like a good idea at the time but all it takes is moisture getting in between the plastic and the metal and you have an instant rust recipe. As part of my ever growing shipwright's disease, I removed the grill, disassembled it and cut away the plastic cover. Here's what it looks like underneath (http://tinyurl.com/3ajgwj) The metal on the top of the grill is as nice as the day it was installed....the sides and bottom are another story. Two questions for the List: is that brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1221 - Release Date: 1/12/2008 2:04 PM From lfm614 at aol.com Sun Jan 13 18:52:19 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 01:52:19 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <1519059521-1200275671-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1097131261-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Bob, I believe it is brass and the egg crate looks like aluminium. I took the plastic off, sanded the pitting down and painted the whole thing (minus the border shiny steel) satin black, the same as the kahm back (rear of the car). Came out like new minus the plastic. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:30:06 To:, "'TR-6 list'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff This goes under the "what were they thinking" category. The frame of the TR6 grill has a plastic coating of some sort which is, in turn, covered with a chrome piece. The plastic probably seemed like a good idea at the time but all it takes is moisture getting in between the plastic and the metal and you have an instant rust recipe. As part of my ever growing shipwright's disease, I removed the grill, disassembled it and cut away the plastic cover. Here's what it looks like underneath (http://tinyurl.com/3ajgwj) The metal on the top of the grill is as nice as the day it was installed....the sides and bottom are another story. Two questions for the List: is that brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1221 - Release Date: 1/12/2008 2:04 PM _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Jan 13 19:29:22 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 02:29:22 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <1519059521-1200275671-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1097131261-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> <1519059521-1200275671-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1097131261-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066D42@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Agreed on the brass/alu. I think we have all faced the same rot in the grille frame at one time or another. The trim piece underneath it is constructed the same way and suffers the same fate. As to what were they thinking, my guess is "no idiot will still be driving this thing in 34 years time". Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lfm614 at aol.com Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 8:52 PM To: Bob Danielson; triumphs at autox.team.net; TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Bob, I believe it is brass and the egg crate looks like aluminium. I took the plastic off, sanded the pitting down and painted the whole thing (minus the border shiny steel) satin black, the same as the kahm back (rear of the car). Came out like new minus the plastic. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 20:30:06 To:, "'TR-6 list'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff This goes under the "what were they thinking" category. The frame of the TR6 grill has a plastic coating of some sort which is, in turn, covered with a chrome piece. The plastic probably seemed like a good idea at the time but all it takes is moisture getting in between the plastic and the metal and you have an instant rust recipe. As part of my ever growing shipwright's disease, I removed the grill, disassembled it and cut away the plastic cover. Here's what it looks like underneath (http://tinyurl.com/3ajgwj) The metal on the top of the grill is as nice as the day it was installed....the sides and bottom are another story. Two questions for the List: is that brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1221 - Release Date: 1/12/2008 2:04 PM From 6parts at charter.net Sun Jan 13 20:20:28 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 22:20:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <006701c8565c$697b08f0$03d30c47@alan> Actually , I believe the Plastic is actually a powder coat thats pealing off because water got behind it. That looks pretty nasty, I'd look for a used one on Ebay. Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; "'TR-6 list'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 8:30 PM Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff > This goes under the "what were they thinking" category. The frame of the > TR6 > grill has a plastic coating of some sort which is, in turn, covered with a > chrome piece. The plastic probably seemed like a good idea at the time but > all it takes is moisture getting in between the plastic and the metal and > you have an instant rust recipe. As part of my ever growing shipwright's > disease, I removed the grill, disassembled it and cut away the plastic > cover. Here's what it looks like underneath (http://tinyurl.com/3ajgwj) > The > metal on the top of the grill is as nice as the day it was > installed....the > sides and bottom are another story. Two questions for the List: is that > brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of > metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? > > My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here > http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Jan 13 20:25:35 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 03:25:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <006701c8565c$697b08f0$03d30c47@alan> References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> <006701c8565c$697b08f0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066D49@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Did they do powder coating in the early 70's ? Looks like TRF has viable replacements: http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/190.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050 Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 10:20 PM To: Bob Danielson; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Actually , I believe the Plastic is actually a powder coat thats pealing off because water got behind it. That looks pretty nasty, I'd look for a used one on Ebay. Al www.triumphowners.com/624 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 13 20:31:46 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 22:31:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <006701c8565c$697b08f0$03d30c47@alan> References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> <006701c8565c$697b08f0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <002101c8565d$ff3c0550$210110ac@bobspc> Actually the overall condition of the frame isn't too bad. I'm going to try the POR-15 route, put the trim piece back on and see how it all looks. If I don't like it, I'll start to shop around. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Alan Salvatore [mailto:6parts at charter.net] Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 10:20 PM To: Bob Danielson; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Actually , I believe the Plastic is actually a powder coat thats pealing off because water got behind it. That looks pretty nasty, I'd look for a used one on Ebay. Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; "'TR-6 list'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 8:30 PM Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff > This goes under the "what were they thinking" category. The frame of the > TR6 > grill has a plastic coating of some sort which is, in turn, covered with a > chrome piece. The plastic probably seemed like a good idea at the time but > all it takes is moisture getting in between the plastic and the metal and > you have an instant rust recipe. As part of my ever growing shipwright's > disease, I removed the grill, disassembled it and cut away the plastic > cover. Here's what it looks like underneath (http://tinyurl.com/3ajgwj) > The > metal on the top of the grill is as nice as the day it was > installed....the > sides and bottom are another story. Two questions for the List: is that > brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of > metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? > > My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here > http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. > > Thanks > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1221 - Release Date: 1/12/2008 2:04 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1221 - Release Date: 1/12/2008 2:04 PM From 6parts at charter.net Sun Jan 13 20:40:51 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 13 Jan 2008 22:40:51 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> <006701c8565c$697b08f0$03d30c47@alan> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066D49@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <007f01c8565f$42f78a20$03d30c47@alan> The process was patented in the 50's; commercial use started in the mid 60's. l ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net>; "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 13, 2008 10:25 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Did they do powder coating in the early 70's ? Looks like TRF has viable replacements: http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/190.php?s_wt=1680&s_ht=1050 Stan From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 14 09:04:47 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:04:47 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Short found /damn alternator In-Reply-To: <20080112.132559.1272.0.otral@juno.com> References: <20080112.132559.1272.0.otral@juno.com> Message-ID: Al: One way to kill an alternator in a hurry is to run it without a battery connected. Make sure your alternator plug is clean, and that the connectors in it are properly seated in the carrier and are not getting pushed back into the carrier when you push in the plug. I killed a brand new alternator by not getting the plug fully seated, I drove it around less than an hour and it stopped charging my battery. When I got it home, I popped the hood and the plug had backed out about 1/4". Aha! says I, I will just push the plug back in and everything will be fine. Wrong. The alternator was toast. $90 and a trip to Napa and everything was fixed, but very distressing that a loose plug cost $90. I would have fired my mechanic on the spot, but since it was me I was a tad more forgiving. Talk about !%$^%$#% Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of alan g graffam Sent: January 12, 2008 10:26 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Short found /damn alternator Listers, I finally tracked down my longtime short and the alternator has a &^%$#$% problem. This makes three of these suckers in less than a year. I'm keeping it and having it fixed by an American. Al Graffam _______________________________________________ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 14 09:06:40 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:06:40 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066CFC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE066CFC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: I use heat shrink tubing. My local Ace Hardware store carries it in rolls in many different sizes. Electronics stores (not radio shack!) also carry it in 3 foot lengths. I use black, but it comes in a variety of colors. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: January 12, 2008 7:47 AM To: 6pack (6pack) Subject: [6pack] Source for PVC sleeve ? Throughout the TR6 there are various times where black PVC like sleeve material is used to buffer the wiring. We see it for the wires coming through the inner wing for the headlamps and we see it covering the metal tabs all over the engine bay that secure the loom. Do we have a source for that black PVC sleeve or any suggestions for a viable alternative ? Stan From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 14 09:21:28 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 08:21:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000301c8564d$00993410$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: The frame appears to have been repaired at some point, which is what the brass "solder" is. It is called "brazing" (sp?) and uses acetylene and a rod of brass. IT is much stronger than solder, and uses a much lower heat than welding. Given that the metal is very thin, this avoids warping the frame. The egg crate is anodized aluminum as I recall. I used POR to paint my frame. Pretty amazing stuff, as long as the underlying metal is grease free. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: January 13, 2008 5:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'TR-6 list' Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Two questions for the List: is that brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From caryhenry at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 09:45:04 2008 From: caryhenry at hotmail.com (Cary Henry) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 11:45:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tail/Brake Light Problem Message-ID: Ever since my 76 came back from paint I have had an issue with the brake lights. When I press the brakes, the tail light (dim) comes on and when the tail lights should be on, the brake lights (bright) are on. I know they removed the tail light assembly while painting. Could this possibly be a connection issue at the tail light? Any thoughts? Thanks, Cary _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_012008 From william.mcintire at wright.edu Mon Jan 14 09:52:56 2008 From: william.mcintire at wright.edu (William McIntire) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 11:52:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tail/Brake Light Problem In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Cary Sounds like you have a ground problem with the tail light assy. The brake lights are using the tail light circuit as a ground. Pound a big metal stake into the ground with a long wire attached to the car....no, seriously , make sure the ground connection at the light assy is making good connection. Bill '70 6 ----- Original Message ----- From: Cary Henry Date: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 am Subject: [6pack] Tail/Brake Light Problem To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Ever since my 76 came back from paint I have had an issue with the > brakelights. When I press the brakes, the tail light (dim) comes > on and when the > tail lights should be on, the brake lights (bright) are on. I know > theyremoved the tail light assembly while painting. Could this > possibly be a > connection issue at the tail light? Any thoughts? > > Thanks, > Cary > _________________________________________________________________ From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 14 10:52:07 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 12:52:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Tail/Brake Light Problem References: Message-ID: <005301c856d6$2deff5f0$03d30c47@alan> Check to see it the ground tab in the trunk is covered with paint , since you had the car painted. It may be as simple as scraping some paint off that tad. BTDT Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "William McIntire" To: "Cary Henry" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:52 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Tail/Brake Light Problem > Cary > Sounds like you have a ground problem with the tail light assy. The > brake lights are using the tail light circuit as a ground. Pound a big > metal stake into the ground with a long wire attached to the car....no, > seriously , make sure the ground connection at the light assy is making > good connection. > > Bill '70 6 > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Cary Henry > Date: Monday, January 14, 2008 11:45 am > Subject: [6pack] Tail/Brake Light Problem > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > >> Ever since my 76 came back from paint I have had an issue with the >> brakelights. When I press the brakes, the tail light (dim) comes >> on and when the >> tail lights should be on, the brake lights (bright) are on. I know >> theyremoved the tail light assembly while painting. Could this >> possibly be a >> connection issue at the tail light? Any thoughts? >> >> Thanks, >> Cary >> _________________________________________________________________ From jattr6 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 11:42:20 2008 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 18:42:20 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? Message-ID: Hello. Ok, I have been dealing with a guy named Vinny who I am not sure is entirely legit. Real name: Vincenzo Mettee, Lakewood NJ Anyone know him or had any dealings with him? should I press harder with the credit card company to get my money back before too much time passes? I get excuse after excuse, and now no contact in a week. first it is item is in shipping, then warehouse is doing an inventory, then my father died, then i had back surgery, then item went to mexico. what next?! i feel hoodwinked BIG time. I may need to call up my 'friends' in NJ to pay a 'visit'! LOL! thanks. _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com Mon Jan 14 12:00:56 2008 From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 11:00:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Short found /damn alternator In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <989069.23658.qm@web51301.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Al, Not sure what you mean about having it fixed by an American, but where was your short located? Have you cleaned up your grounds in the engine bay? Ryan 6/71 imperial blue --- 6pack-request at autox.team.net wrote: ------------------------------ Message: 10 Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2008 13:25:58 -0500 From: alan g graffam Subject: [6pack] Short found /damn alternator To: 6pack at autox.team.net Message-ID: <20080112.132559.1272.0.otral at juno.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Listers, I finally tracked down my longtime short and the alternator has a &^%$#$% problem. This makes three of these suckers in less than a year. I'm keeping it and having it fixed by an American. Al Graffam ------------------------------ ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Jan 14 12:04:50 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 14:04:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <478BB252.1010707@maine.rr.com> Jim; Have you tried the Ocean County Chamber of Commerce [(732) 349-0220] or the Lakewood Better Business Bureau [http://www.mylakewoodchamber.com/business_resources.asp]? Dave '74-Six James_ TR6 wrote: >Hello. > >Ok, I have been dealing with a guy named Vinny who I am not sure is >entirely legit. > >Real name: Vincenzo Mettee, Lakewood NJ >Anyone know him or had any dealings with him? >should I press harder with the credit card company to get my money back >before too much time passes? > >I get excuse after excuse, and now no contact in a week. >first it is item is in shipping, then warehouse is doing an inventory, >then my father died, then i had back surgery, then item went to mexico. >what next?! >i feel hoodwinked BIG time. > >I may need to call up my 'friends' in NJ to pay a 'visit'! >LOL! > >thanks. > > >_________________________________________________________________ >Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. >http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008 >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Jan 14 13:06:45 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:06:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] !RE: Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c856e8$fe8d1780$6601a8c0@Robert> Snip> Hello. Ok, I have been dealing with a guy named Vinny who I am not sure is entirely legit. Real name: Vincenzo Mettee, Lakewood NJ Anyone know him or had any dealings with him? should I press harder with the credit card company to get my money back before too much time passes? I get excuse after excuse, and now no contact in a week. first it is item is in shipping, then warehouse is doing an inventory, then my father died, then i had back surgery, then item went to mexico. i feel hoodwinked BIG time. I may need to call up my 'friends' in NJ to pay a 'visit'! LOL! thanks. Are you serious? LOL is definite not the case. I'm in stitches Robert L. Gannon From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 14 13:18:36 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 12:18:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <753339.69267.qm@web82611.mail.mud.yahoo.com> He goes by "Vinny" and he does business in New Jersey. And you gave him your credit card info... all applicable stereotypes apply apparently. I for one am _shocked_ (shocked I say!) that you had a problem. Is this even for Triumph stuff? And yes, get the credit card company complaint started now. Kendall From Steve.Rudnicki at gdcanada.com Mon Jan 14 13:59:35 2008 From: Steve.Rudnicki at gdcanada.com (Rudnicki, Steve) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 15:59:35 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [SPAM] - Re: TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff - Email found in subject In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <291B8B4BBFF5CD49B72E14F850A1DFC2040DF752@OTTSVW100.gdcan.com> My frame had brazed corners as well under the remains of the OEM plastic - I suspect it was manufactured that way. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+steve.rudnicki=gdcanada.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+steve.rudnicki=gdcanada.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: January 14, 2008 11:21 AM To: Bob Danielson; TR-6 list Subject: [SPAM] - Re: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff - Email found in subject Bob: The frame appears to have been repaired at some point, which is what the brass "solder" is. It is called "brazing" (sp?) and uses acetylene and a rod of brass. IT is much stronger than solder, and uses a much lower heat than welding. Given that the metal is very thin, this avoids warping the frame. The egg crate is anodized aluminum as I recall. I used POR to paint my frame. Pretty amazing stuff, as long as the underlying metal is grease free. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: January 13, 2008 5:30 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'TR-6 list' Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff Two questions for the List: is that brass solder on the grill frame corners in the pictures and what kind of metal is the egg crate part of the grill made of? My Nissan differential is also moving along and can be seen here http://tinyurl.com/2jnn7p That POR-15 is amazing stuff. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as steve.rudnicki at gdcanada.com The information contained in this e-mail message is PRIVATE. It may contain confidential information and may be legally privileged. It is intended for the exclusive use of the addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or reproduction of this communication is strictly prohibited. If the intended recipient(s) cannot be reached or if a transmission problem has occurred, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and destroy all copies of this message. Thank you. From Steve.Rudnicki at gdcanada.com Mon Jan 14 14:02:45 2008 From: Steve.Rudnicki at gdcanada.com (Rudnicki, Steve) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:02:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question In-Reply-To: <291B8B4BBFF5CD49B72E14F850A1DFC2040DF751@OTTSVW100.gdcan.com> Message-ID: <291B8B4BBFF5CD49B72E14F850A1DFC2040DF754@OTTSVW100.gdcan.com> I had the same experience on my grill frame - the metal was a bit corroded but in pretty good shape. The plastic was gone. I cleaned up the frame and derusted it then painted it - I then coated it with automotive seam sealer (Canadian Tire or Eastmans) to give it the plastic coated look. I then painted it again - it looks great and you would never know it wasn't brand new. Cheers, Steve CF30348U The information contained in this e-mail message is PRIVATE. It may contain confidential information and may be legally privileged. It is intended for the exclusive use of the addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or reproduction of this communication is strictly prohibited. If the intended recipient(s) cannot be reached or if a transmission problem has occurred, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and destroy all copies of this message. Thank you. From Steve.Rudnicki at gdcanada.com Mon Jan 14 14:03:40 2008 From: Steve.Rudnicki at gdcanada.com (Rudnicki, Steve) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 16:03:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [SPAM] - Re: TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff - Email found in subject In-Reply-To: <291B8B4BBFF5CD49B72E14F850A1DFC2040DF752@OTTSVW100.gdcan.com> Message-ID: <291B8B4BBFF5CD49B72E14F850A1DFC2040DF755@OTTSVW100.gdcan.com> My frame had brazed corners as well under the remains of the OEM plastic - I suspect it was manufactured that way. Steve CF30348U -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+steve.rudnicki=gdcanada.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+steve.rudnicki=gdcanada.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: January 14, 2008 11:21 AM To: Bob Danielson; TR-6 list Subject: [SPAM] - Re: [6pack] TR6 Grill Question & Nissan Diff - Email found in subject Bob: The frame appears to have been repaired at some point, which is what the brass "solder" is... The information contained in this e-mail message is PRIVATE. It may contain confidential information and may be legally privileged. It is intended for the exclusive use of the addressee(s). If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that any dissemination, distribution or reproduction of this communication is strictly prohibited. If the intended recipient(s) cannot be reached or if a transmission problem has occurred, please notify the sender immediately by return e-mail and destroy all copies of this message. Thank you. From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Jan 14 14:08:01 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 21:08:01 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: <753339.69267.qm@web82611.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <753339.69267.qm@web82611.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5091@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Seems to be in a slightly different line of business than TR parts. http://www.manta.com/coms2/dnbcompany_dwqbcz Champion Subcontractors 520 New Egypt Rd, Lakewood, NJ 08701-2939, United States (Map) (Add Company Info) Phone: (732) 730-1317 SIC:Sewerage Systems Line of Business:Sewerage System Plumbing/Heating/Air Cond Contractor Detailed Champion Subcontractors Company Profile This company profile is for the private company Champion Subcontractors, located in Lakewood, NJ. Champion Subcontractors's line of business is sewerage system plumbing/heating/air cond contractor. Company Profile: Champion Subcontractors Year Started:2001 State of Incorporation:N/A URL:N/A Location Type:Single Location Stock Symbol:N/A Stock Exchange:N/A Also Does Business As:N/A NAICS:N/A SIC #Code:4952 Est. Annual Sales:$58,000 Est. Employees:1 Est. Employees at Location:1 Contact Name:Vinnie Mettee Contact Title:Owner Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall Larsen Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:19 PM To: James_ TR6; 6pack List Subject: Re: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? He goes by "Vinny" and he does business in New Jersey. And you gave him your credit card info... all applicable stereotypes apply apparently. I for one am _shocked_ (shocked I say!) that you had a problem. Is this even for Triumph stuff? And yes, get the credit card company complaint started now. Kendall _______________________________________________ From jattr6 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 14:12:07 2008 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 21:12:07 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ?? part II In-Reply-To: <478BB252.1010707@maine.rr.com> References: <478BB252.1010707@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: I know RIGHT? I trusted someone named 'Vinny' from NJ!!!! I am stupid! LOL! well, actually I bought the item through ebay and paypal. so i didn't know his name then! honest. and i didn't actually give 'Vinny' my credit card number - it went through paypal. i was hoping that would make it legit and protect me... but, it is past the 45 days when ebay or paypal will help me. great, i feel like he knew just how long to lead me on. today i have been leaving him voice mails and emails, so of course he is getting back to me. and once again he has tracking numbers! yeah, well, where are they? He still hasn't sent them! instead I get cussed at for calling him a scum bag in one of my emails! LOL! and that "I" must have a lower education for calling him that....ummmm....who used the "F-bomb" over the airways? hmmmm. i think that is a federal offense. well, if he is so stupid to understand that 50 plus days to receive something is going to get someone upset...then he needs a wake up call. He sells Triumph related parts, so that is why I am posting this. Sure, he could be very legit. I probably expereienced a comedy of errors. hmmm, let's see.... he had a transformer blow and needed phone/computer work down, he had back surgery and was in a wheel chair, his father died prior to the holidays, the item shipped on 12/16/2007, but wait, it didn't because the warehouse had to do an inventory and freeze everything. then it shipped....but to MEXICO! yes, you heard it all. i have talked with the pleasant chap in the past on the phone. sounds a bit british - specifically south african. the bad connection must be because he is calling from overseas! it all makes sense now! or my imagination is gone totally wild! I can only laugh, and hope he is legit and will ship the item. He is really upset over the negative comments, so he must be legit folks. but i have a couple grand tied up here....so i don't think i am at blame for being upset. and i paid him in full within 24 hours. his auction clearly stated 'item ships between 6-10 days' sigh! _________________________________________________________________ Watch Cause Effect, a show about real people making a real difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_watchcause From forzion at maine.rr.com Mon Jan 14 15:23:26 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 17:23:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5091@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <753339.69267.qm@web82611.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5091@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <478BE0DE.2040705@maine.rr.com> Wow, good sleuthing work, Stan! Dave '74-Six Foster, Stan wrote: >Seems to be in a slightly different line of business than TR parts. > >http://www.manta.com/coms2/dnbcompany_dwqbcz > > >Champion Subcontractors > >520 New Egypt Rd, Lakewood, NJ 08701-2939, United States (Map) (Add Company >Info) >Phone: (732) 730-1317 > >SIC:Sewerage Systems > >Line of Business:Sewerage System Plumbing/Heating/Air Cond Contractor > > >Detailed Champion Subcontractors Company Profile > >This company profile is for the private company Champion Subcontractors, >located in Lakewood, NJ. Champion Subcontractors's line of business is >sewerage system plumbing/heating/air cond contractor. > > >Company Profile: Champion Subcontractors >Year Started:2001 >State of Incorporation:N/A >URL:N/A >Location Type:Single Location >Stock Symbol:N/A >Stock Exchange:N/A >Also Does Business As:N/A >NAICS:N/A >SIC #Code:4952 >Est. Annual Sales:$58,000 >Est. Employees:1 >Est. Employees at Location:1 >Contact Name:Vinnie Mettee >Contact Title:Owner > > > >Stan > >-----Original Message----- >From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net >[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Kendall >Larsen >Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 3:19 PM >To: James_ TR6; 6pack List >Subject: Re: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? > >He goes by "Vinny" and he does business in New Jersey. And you gave him your >credit card info... all applicable stereotypes apply apparently. > >I for one am _shocked_ (shocked I say!) that you had a problem. > >Is this even for Triumph stuff? And yes, get the credit card company >complaint >started now. > >Kendall >_______________________________________________ >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From TR6UO at aol.com Mon Jan 14 15:42:50 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 17:42:50 EST Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? Message-ID: All comedy and stereotypes aside, I'm really sorry for your problems with "Vinny". Sometimes dealing with low-lifes on e-Bay can be infuriating. Let me guess, he had a perfect feedback score. In my experience, most of the perfect scores are only a reflecton of the disatisfied buyers not wanting a reciprocal negative feedback. It's good for e-Bay and bad for the buyers it's supposed to protect. It's such a scam and it amazes me that people go along with it just because it's e-Bay. Your problem as described is a typical result. Just my 2 cents. Good luck with "Vinny". Regards, Steve **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Jan 14 16:33:33 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 18:33:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000b01c85705$e2b95970$6601a8c0@Robert> I must sincerely apologize for my jesting. It is most unkind of me to laugh at your situation. Sounds like Vinny got you, but this is the USA and the courts are available to all. Couple of thousand in loss? Get your proof together and take him to court. Robert L. Gannon From jattr6 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 16:59:56 2008 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 23:59:56 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: <000b01c85705$e2b95970$6601a8c0@Robert> References: <000b01c85705$e2b95970$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: LOL! No worries at all Robert! I am laughing too! i have to joke about it. besides, i am sure...i hope... he is legit. he was selling for an estate, so maybe that is true, and maybe those things get sticky, but generally those things area organized SO well that this would not have happened. right? generally everything gets organized through a lawyer and someone as executor ... well. i hope works out soon. i am sure it will. i feel better that he is at least a real person in this country! i hate to bad mouth someone, but this is way too long. especially since i am told it has shipped (like on 12/16/2007) but then nothing. -j> From: trsix74 at comcast.net> > I must sincerely apologize for my jesting. It is most unkind of me to laugh> at your situation. > > Sounds like Vinny got you, but this is the USA and the courts are available> to all. Couple of thousand in loss? Get your proof together and take him to> court. > > Robert L. Gannon> > _________________________________________________________________ Watch Cause Effect, a show about real people making a real difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_watchcause From DLylis at aol.com Mon Jan 14 19:30:29 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 21:30:29 EST Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? Message-ID: What is stopping you from canceling the charge on the credit card? Cancel the charge and report to the credit card company (hope its Amex) that the goods were not delivered. If he has indeed shipped then it will arrive at your door and you can pay him then. If he hasn't shipped then you were right. File a dispute and the charge will be credited back to your account until there is resolution. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 14 20:13:11 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:13:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Message-ID: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 14 20:33:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:33:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> Al, This is when shipwrights can enter the equation! Pull the engine and tranny as a unit and you can do all sorts of winter projects on both! From what I've heard, the hardest part of pulling the tranny by itself is getting the starter off. Having said that.............at VTR in Valley Forge this summer, a guy swapped out his tranny in the parking lot! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1223 - Release Date: 1/13/2008 8:23 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1223 - Release Date: 1/13/2008 8:23 PM From acekraut11 at aol.com Mon Jan 14 20:44:34 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 22:44:34 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <8CA2540145545B2-330-29B7@webmail-mf17.sysops.aol.com> Hi Al, Since you asked a general question I will offer a general answer, with the offer of additional information if you want more specifics.? The process is not difficult, just a bit time consuming.? You can do almost all of it yourself though it is helpful and safer to have someone assist you with removal and installation of the gearbox itself.? It is also a bit quicker if you can get a "friend" to help you by holding a wrench on the bolt heads inside the engine bay while you loosen and tighten them from inside the car.? However, there are other things to consider replacing, "while you are there".? Depending on how much wear you have on your clutch fork, cross shaft and cross shaft bushings you may want to replace these.? It is a very good time to drill and pin the clutch fork pin so you dont have to worry as much about it snapping off.? Inspect the holes for the clevis pin where the slave cylinder attaches to the cross shaft and inspect the cross shaft for wear at the point it rides on the bushings.? My gearbox had old bushings installed that were almost half the size of the opening the slide into.? New ones from TRF were almost twice as big, offering a greater area for the cross shaft to rotate on.? Of course, take notes, pictures and use bags to label nuts and bolts, etc.? Oh yeah, check out the flywheel also.? I am sure I have forgotten and omitted lots of stuff. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, 14 Jan 2008 10:13 pm Subject: [TR] Clutch Replacement Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Jan 14 20:54:23 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 03:54:23 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> <000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> The hardest part about pulling the tranny is putting it back in... Tranny with no OD weighs around 60lbs, with OD around 100lbs and it is very awkward to get into position and mated to the engine. There seems to be no device that can help with this process so it is brute force, snatch and heave. Very manly activity though. Removing the engine and tranny as a unit takes longer but is overall less stressful and more deterministic and it facilitates all those other little projects that you have been putting off. Does that sleeve need the crank to be reground or does it just slide over the rear seal surface ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:33 PM To: 'Alan Salvatore'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Al, This is when shipwrights can enter the equation! Pull the engine and tranny as a unit and you can do all sorts of winter projects on both! From what I've heard, the hardest part of pulling the tranny by itself is getting the starter off. Having said that.............at VTR in Valley Forge this summer, a guy swapped out his tranny in the parking lot! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al From jattr6 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 21:03:03 2008 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 04:03:03 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Anyone know VINNY from Lakewood NJ???? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: > What is stopping you from canceling the charge on the credit card? that is what i decided to do. i was trying to be patient and trusting. but i had enough. the paypal rep. said they can't do anything after 45 days, so i called Citi. - even though i already paid off the card (and charge) at least now the big boys can go after the money. i hate to play like that, but had no choice. of course i now have an email saying the item has shipped. funny, i had an email like that on 12/16/2007. LOL! _________________________________________________________________ Watch Cause Effect, a show about real people making a real difference. From jattr6 at hotmail.com Mon Jan 14 21:25:28 2008 From: jattr6 at hotmail.com (James_ TR6) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 04:25:28 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement TIPS... In-Reply-To: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: Oh boy Al... i have several tips...from doing this several times since 1992. first, get a jack and a 2x4 peice of wood. you will need this to slight jack up the engine under the oil pan. the wood is to keep metal to metal damage. the starter is a pain to put back on. you may want to take off the exhaust pipes and muffler to gain access to the u-joint at the tranny...if i recall correctly it is difficult (impossible) to gain access to the 4 bolts from inside the car. i could be mistaken. you should also scribe a mark on the drive shaft flange and the tranny flange. the driveshaft is allegedly balanced. i used chalk and that smeared off...so i may be unbalanced (no comments please! LOL) here are some tricks, i used an old skate board or a rolling dolly to support the tranny coming out and going in. helps a lot. stack wood or better yet, use a jack that can fit on the dolly but still under the tranny. a jack can adjust the height so much easier. going in, put the tranny in 4th gear. that way you can turn the rear flange a little bit to help line up the 4th gear shaft teeth to the clutch plate teeth. you may need to bag on the bell housing with a rubber mallet to ease the tranny in. another coaxing method: by two or three LONG bolts with threads going through the entire length and nuts. use these to help coax the bell housing in by placing the bolts through one of the top right holes and another bolt at the bottom left side. by adding a little tension, and tweaking the rear flange by hand will help line up the teeth of the 4th gear and the clutch teeth. just don't over tighten without the teeth lined up. you will crack the clutch. yes, i did that. but only because i forgot to put in 4th gear! this method worked like a charm for me. basically it is to keep the bellhousing from sliding back. so just get the bellhousing in as far as it will go, tweak the 4th gear, and then tighten the bolts little by little. take your time. and replace the fork, throw out bearing and bushings, oh AND THE REAR ENGINE SEAL!!!! get a GOOD torque wrench. getting the fly wheel bolts off (to get to the engine seal and re-surface/replace) may need a pneumatic wrench. or a block of wood to keep the fly wheel from spinning. if you are in there, spend the extra doe $$$ to replace the other stuff. it is worth it. i assume the clutch has been replaced before, but i heard people saving the original pressure plate (looks like a ... bowl with fingers in the middle) good luck. _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 15 06:24:18 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 08:24:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> <000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002901c85779$f1af0e60$210110ac@bobspc> I put my 4 speed tranny on a shipping scale Sunday and it weighs in at 73 pounds without an OD. It takes a manly man to move it around by yourself. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Foster, Stan [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:54 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Alan Salvatore'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: RE: [6pack] Clutch Replacement The hardest part about pulling the tranny is putting it back in... Tranny with no OD weighs around 60lbs, with OD around 100lbs and it is very awkward to get into position and mated to the engine. There seems to be no device that can help with this process so it is brute force, snatch and heave. Very manly activity though. Removing the engine and tranny as a unit takes longer but is overall less stressful and more deterministic and it facilitates all those other little projects that you have been putting off. Does that sleeve need the crank to be reground or does it just slide over the rear seal surface ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:33 PM To: 'Alan Salvatore'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Al, This is when shipwrights can enter the equation! Pull the engine and tranny as a unit and you can do all sorts of winter projects on both! From what I've heard, the hardest part of pulling the tranny by itself is getting the starter off. Having said that.............at VTR in Valley Forge this summer, a guy swapped out his tranny in the parking lot! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, January 14, 2008 10:13 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Jan 15 07:00:22 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 08:00:22 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan><000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <002901c85779$f1af0e60$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <000b01c8577e$fec75030$c70b0a0a@garage.local> i have an 18 year old son who works out. what am i bid???? ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Foster, Stan'" ; "'Alan Salvatore'" <6parts at charter.net>; ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:24 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement >I put my 4 speed tranny on a shipping scale Sunday and it weighs in at 73 > pounds without an OD. It takes a manly man to move it around by yourself. From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 15 07:18:46 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:18:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan><000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><002901c85779$f1af0e60$210110ac@bobspc> <000b01c8577e$fec75030$c70b0a0a@garage.local> Message-ID: <002b01c85781$8a9075e0$03d30c47@alan> Hmmm, Since the hernia operation, 50lbs is my limit, and we're talking O/D trans. Where's he hiddin. lol Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oliver" To: "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 9:00 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement >i have an 18 year old son who works out. > > what am i bid???? > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > To: "'Foster, Stan'" ; "'Alan Salvatore'" > <6parts at charter.net>; ; "'6pack'" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:24 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement > > >>I put my 4 speed tranny on a shipping scale Sunday and it weighs in at 73 >> pounds without an OD. It takes a manly man to move it around by yourself. From mcmeganutt at aol.com Tue Jan 15 07:21:20 2008 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 09:21:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] eBay and Vinny Message-ID: <8CA259908EEF189-BC4-2909@WEBMAIL-MB01.sysops.aol.com> I am one of those people that has a 100% positive feedback on close to 600 transactions on ebay (businessman5678 ). I work very hard on that and am very proud of that fact. Of those 600 transactions I have run into?3 idiots total. Thats my experience, by? far it has been a profitable, enjoyable and positive experience. As for Vinny, you have his adddress when you paid him. I?go on line to?the Department of Consumer Protection, the BBB, the Chamber of Commerce and file complaints, so far it has worked everytime for me to recover an item or to recover my money. In the future never wait this long to file an ebay or paypal dispute. It protects your interest and lets the seller know you are paying attention. I just politely remind them that I have not received the item. The vast majority of people respond immediately and I have done it maybe 5 times total. 1970 TR6 CC54944L FIT www.ctriumph.com ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Tue Jan 15 07:49:06 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 06:49:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <002b01c85781$8a9075e0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <611549.87342.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Al, I've done the job by myself...several times unfortunately. I think the extraction is almost ALWAYS easier than the reinstall. Have yourself a towel or something to cover the floor, this is of course after you've removed the passenger seat & all the other crap(er, i mean BLING) you have in yer car. Have a jack handy to raise/lower the engine as required. You may also have to use the jack on reinstall. In fact, it may be handy to have 2 jacks...one for the engine & one for the gearbox. Yes, you should have some dowels(correct size bolts will do) for the install about 3 & 7 o'clock. Sometimes the holes on the bell housing get mushroomed making it difficult to tell which holes are larger. May be easier to tell from the engine plate side. The bolts are actually larger(not sure of size) for those 2 holes. The gearbox usually requires some "wiggling" at the back end and the engine will require some up/down movement, but it's do-able! I did mine...overdrive too. Toad --- Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > Hmmm, > > Since the hernia operation, 50lbs is my limit, and > we're talking O/D trans. > > Where's he hiddin. > > lol > > Al > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Oliver" > To: "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 9:00 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement > > > >i have an 18 year old son who works out. > > > > what am i bid???? > > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: "Bob Danielson" > <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > > To: "'Foster, Stan'" ; "'Alan > Salvatore'" > > <6parts at charter.net>; ; > "'6pack'" > > <6pack at autox.team.net> > > Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:24 AM > > Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement > > > > > >>I put my 4 speed tranny on a shipping scale Sunday > and it weighs in at 73 > >> pounds without an OD. It takes a manly man to > move it around by yourself. ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Jan 15 09:00:31 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 08:00:31 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Mating OD tranny to motor. Was Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan><000901c85727$61b0b1d0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A50EE@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: Here is a trick that works for me. I have an OD tranny, and it is indeed heavy enough and awkward enough that getting it to mate back up to the motor is well nigh impossible for one person of limited strength such as myself. I got some 4x1/4" bolts. I position the transmission as close to the motor as I can, then I insert 2 bolts on opposite side of the bell housing and thread on a nut. From there I can wiggle the tranny closer and FINGER tighten the nuts until the tranny mates with the motor. The bolts keep it aligned as I wiggle it closer, and keep it from falling back. After 30 minutes of cussing I tried this approach and had it mated to the motor in 3 minutes. Very slick. You may well not need it for a non-OD tranny as they are only about 70 lbs, and much easier to handle. With the OD, the tranny is just over 100lbs, and at the limit for someone like me. If you have a friend to help, you probably would not need to do this, but then again maybe you would. Your mileage may vary, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: January 14, 2008 7:54 PM To: Bob Danielson; 'Alan Salvatore'; triumphs at autox.team.net; '6pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement The hardest part about pulling the tranny is putting it back in... Tranny with no OD weighs around 60lbs, with OD around 100lbs and it is very awkward to get into position and mated to the engine. There seems to be no device that can help with this process so it is brute force, snatch and heave. Very manly activity though. Removing the engine and tranny as a unit takes longer but is overall less stressful and more deterministic and it facilitates all those other little projects that you have been putting off. Does that sleeve need the crank to be reground or does it just slide over the rear seal surface ? Stan From TR6UO at aol.com Tue Jan 15 09:02:58 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 11:02:58 EST Subject: [6pack] eBay and Vinny Message-ID: In a message dated 1/15/2008 6:22:06 AM Pacific Standard Time, mcmeganutt at aol.com writes: I am one of those people that has a 100% positive feedback on close to 600 transactions on eBay (businessman5678 ). I work very hard on that and am very proud of that fact. Thanks for weighing in on your feedback score. My comment was not aimed at people like yourself and my apologies if you felt they were. In fact, I would think eBay sellers who work hard at their business would resent all the undeserved "100%" feedback sellers giving eBay the sleazy reputation it is taking on. My question is why isn't someone speaking up about it?? **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From slbridge at hotmail.com Tue Jan 15 10:18:55 2008 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 17:18:55 +0000 Subject: [6pack] eBay, Vinny, and fastbrit74 Message-ID: I haven't run across this Vinny guy, but I think the online auction concept works in spite of the eBay management and their goofy ways. I did get an undeserved neutral from a, "fastbrit74", who bought an NOS TR6 hood from me and wouldn't listen to my advice to ship it via Greyhound so I could put it in a proper box. The bus depot was only 8 miles from his home. I tried to convince him to no avail. So I shipped it Fedex in the biggest box possible. He left me a "neutral" because it got dented shipping the way he insisted. He left the neutral after I refunded 100% of his money including shipping both ways. Some of us sellers go the extra mile, even when we shouldn't. I don't know who vinny is, but watch out for fastbrit74, (also a seller) I blocked him as a buyer and wish I could block him as a seller so I wouldn't have to look at his items in my searches. _________________________________________________________________ Put your friends on the big screen with Windows Vista. + Windows Live. http://www.microsoft.com/windows/shop/specialoffers.mspx?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_CPC_M ediaCtr_bigscreen_012008 From johncnorth at gmail.com Tue Jan 15 10:53:09 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 12:53:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <49f668fe0801150953t70bac866o66b71c99eef092d7@mail.gmail.com> Alan, can you tell us what speedie sleeve you are using and the process for installing? Seems like this seal always leaks... John North On Jan 14, 2008 10:13 PM, Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to > accelerate onto I-85 today. > Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. > > The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on > a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. > Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember > some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. > > Thanks > > Al > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From mcmeganutt at aol.com Tue Jan 15 12:28:05 2008 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 14:28:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] ebay, Vinny and others Message-ID: <8CA25C3E2D02FC9-15F8-C98@WEBMAIL-MB01.sysops.aol.com> I think now with the buyers ability to leave anonymous specific feedback on the seller for description, communication, speed of shipping and shipping costs we will start to see some more accuracy on a sellers true nature. I know there are those that are afraid to leave true neutral or negative feedback for fear of retaliatory feedback. I had one guy leave me neutral because he said I was hard to deal with. I had to file a paypal claim and he never responded to half adozen emails and not even the Paypal claim, I received my refund from paypal. In reality I should have left him a negative and most likely he would have responded with a negative back. Buyers sometimes wonder why sellers don't leave feedback first. A seller doesn't know if your happy with the transactyion until you tell him. My other neutral came after I left positive first as the seller and a month later the buyer decided that the rc car wasn't fast enough for him and it didn't come with some part he wanted. I stood by my description and photos. I haven't dealt with that specific Triumph parts seller but all the TR parts I have bought or sold have been positive experiences. My worst TR experience was when I bought this TR6 from someone on the big TR list or maybe this list, no rust,yea right, I drive 400 miles to pick up the car and its stuck up to the rims in mud, tarp shreds are flapping in the wind, rust everywhere and then he wants me to lie to his wife about how much I'm paying him for it because he has to split the money with her. My heart dropped when I first saw that car. If it wasn't for the new parts that came with it and the fact I just drove 400 miles with a truck and trailer I would have turned around. Here I am 4 years later still rebuilding it, still in alot of pieces but getting closer and I have had a good time with my son working on it so far. He thinks its his now, maybe after I drive it for a few years first. We'll see. Fred 70 TR6 CC54944L FIT ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From TR6UO at aol.com Tue Jan 15 12:42:22 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 14:42:22 EST Subject: [6pack] ebay, Vinny and others Message-ID: In a message dated 1/15/2008 11:28:39 AM Pacific Standard Time, mcmeganutt at aol.com writes: Buyers sometimes wonder why sellers don't leave feedback first. A seller doesn't know if your happy with the transactyion until you tell him. Fred, But your feedback is supposed to reflect YOUR level of satisfaction, not your buyer's. If ALL sellers were required to leave their feedback first after the buyer has complied with the purchase requirements, the honest sellers like yourself would only benefit. The key is for the honest buyers to put the squeeze on the butt----s at eBay to give you some recourse if an unscrupulous buyer then gives you undeserved feedback. That's the only way to separate the wheat from the chaff. Until then, buyers will look on even a 100% positive record with some reservation. Cheers, Steve **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Jan 15 13:05:08 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 12:05:08 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Speedi Sleeve installation Message-ID: <608146.70016.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Al, If you are installing a speedi sleeve on the crank in addition to installing a new OD transmission my recommendation would be to remove the motor (and transmission if still installed), install the speedi sleeve on the crank where it's a lot more accessable, bolt the tranny back to the motor (also a lot easier) and then reinstall them as one piece. I used a hydraulic engine hoist with one of those angle adjustors on the chain and did it by myself in about 1/2 hour or so. It seemed a lot simpler than the way you are contemplating. My trans was an OD also. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI. --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From johnehorton at yahoo.com Tue Jan 15 13:24:42 2008 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 12:24:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] 4 Speed Message-ID: <932615.9945.qm@web51908.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I finally am ready to sell the 1976 4 speed Triumph transmission. I learned it weighs 73 pounds. I have cleaned this one and packing would make another 10 pounds. Total 83 pounds. This 4 speed is excellent with no problems. You can calculate the freight to your location, either UPS or Fedex or what ever. You tell me. They are selling on ebay for over three hundred. I would like to get three hundred, plus the freight you state. I will pack it. If you want it wood boxed, that will change things. I can do that. The clutch slave is also available for 10.00. I installed a Toyota supra 5 speed using Herman's kit. It was a real pleasure to use. Absolutely no problems. the short throw and closer ration is nice. Well worth the investment. John H. 76 TR6 yellow --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 15 16:57:10 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 18:57:10 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement References: <007301c85724$8f6e5170$03d30c47@alan> <49f668fe0801150953t70bac866o66b71c99eef092d7@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <010701c857d2$57efef70$03d30c47@alan> The Speedie Sleeve is listed in the Moss catalog; part # 520-530 for the rear crank. It hasn't arrived yet , so I can't tell you the process. But hopefully it will allow the seal to work properly. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "John North" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 12:53 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement > Alan, can you tell us what speedie sleeve you are using and the > process for installing? Seems like this seal always leaks... > > John North > > On Jan 14, 2008 10:13 PM, Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: >> Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying >> to >> accelerate onto I-85 today. >> Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. >> >> The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on >> a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. >> Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I >> remember >> some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. >> >> Thanks >> >> Al >> _______________________________________________ From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Tue Jan 15 20:10:33 2008 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 19:10:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] clutch Replacement Message-ID: <709581.23363.qm@web60613.mail.yahoo.com> Al: Are you using the Gunst t/o bearing? I used the RF's Luk/Gunst kit. While the clutch works like a charm, the clutch pedal action requires some force. Let us know how it turns out. Redline trannie fluid works great. Take your time and getter done right. Bruce Simms ____________________________________________________ Yahoo! Canada Toolbar: Search from anywhere on the web, and bookmark your favourite sites. Download it now at http://ca.toolbar.yahoo.com. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Jan 15 20:51:24 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 22:51:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings Message-ID: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' differential upgrade and Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings in the trailing arms. Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this was a good time to replace the bushings with his product...........but first I had to remove the old rubber bushings. I've read about how difficult and how easy it can be, so here's how I did it....and it was very easy http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM From apackard68 at comcast.net Tue Jan 15 20:59:04 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 19:59:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20080116040013.AC34E187A33@autox.team.net> I think the Haynes manual suggests burning them out, which I did when I first removed my original rubber bushings. The poly-u ones and then the Goodparts ones are in two pieces, so installation and removal is a bit easier, and no burning rubber! Andy -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 7:51 PM To: 'Triumphs'; '6pack' Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; 'Rick Patton'; 'Richard Good' Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' differential upgrade and Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings in the trailing arms. Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this was a good time to replace the bushings with his product...........but first I had to remove the old rubber bushings. I've read about how difficult and how easy it can be, so here's how I did it....and it was very easy http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Jan 15 21:04:32 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 04:04:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5301@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bob, very nice job, did you use Richards adjustable brackets also ?. For those that cant be bothered fabricating something or (eek!) resorting to trying to burn out the rubber bushes, one trick I learned from Vance "the toolman" Navarrette is to use an off the shelf two pronged puller in "push" mode as shown in this picture. They pop right out. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/DSCN1652.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:51 PM To: 'Triumphs'; '6pack' Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; 'Rick Patton'; 'Richard Good' Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' differential upgrade and Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings in the trailing arms. Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this was a good time to replace the bushings with his product...........but first I had to remove the old rubber bushings. I've read about how difficult and how easy it can be, so here's how I did it....and it was very easy http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 15 21:21:30 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 15 Jan 2008 23:21:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] clutch Replacement References: <709581.23363.qm@web60613.mail.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <01b501c857f7$456ba400$03d30c47@alan> Clutch was replaced in 2001 or 2, now its been over 100k miles. I am using the same basic LUK kit as before. Cheers Al ----- Original Message ----- From: Bruce Simms To: 6parts at charter.net ; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:10 PM Subject: clutch Replacement Al: Are you using the Gunst t/o bearing? I used the RF's Luk/Gunst kit. While the clutch works like a charm, the clutch pedal action requires some force. Let us know how it turns out. Redline trannie fluid works great. Take your time and getter done right. Bruce Simms ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - Ask a question on any topic and get answers from real people. Go to Yahoo! Answers. ----------------------------------------------------------------------------- - No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.2/1224 - Release Date: 1/14/2008 5:39 PM From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 15 22:04:53 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 00:04:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings References: <20080116040013.AC34E187A33@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <01ce01c857fd$54803590$03d30c47@alan> I've drilled a couple of holes through the rubber bushing to weaken it and then used a C-clamp and large socket to push it into. I prefer the uprated rubber bushing. Install = C-clamp, a piece of white plastic pipe a bit larger than the bushing, and board to put on the other side of the trailing arm. The pipe helps hold the bushing in place while the c-clamp is pushing it through. It does take a few tries to get it through. Once in they don't elongate, like the poly I tried. Should be good for the duration. Al www.triumphowners.com/1195 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Andrew Packard" To: "'Triumphs'" ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:59 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings >I think the Haynes manual suggests burning them out, which I did when I > first removed my original rubber bushings. The poly-u ones and then the > Goodparts ones are in two pieces, so installation and removal is a bit > easier, and no burning rubber! > Andy From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Wed Jan 16 00:07:45 2008 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 02:07:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings References: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5301@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <001c01c8580e$7fd4d460$6101a8c0@phoenix> Another method is to drill using a large bit through the rubber parallel to the insert and between the steel insert and edge of the rubber, then simply drive the bushing out with a drift and hammer. Did all four bushings in about 15 minutes. Greg ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; "'Triumphs'" ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: ; "'Rick Patton'" ; "'Richard Good'" Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 11:04 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings > Bob, very nice job, did you use Richards adjustable brackets also ?. > > For those that cant be bothered fabricating something or (eek!) resorting > to > trying to burn out the rubber bushes, one trick I learned from Vance "the > toolman" Navarrette is to use an off the shelf two pronged puller in > "push" > mode as shown in this picture. They pop right out. > > http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/DSCN1652.jpg > > Stan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob > Danielson > Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 10:51 PM > To: 'Triumphs'; '6pack' > Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; 'Rick Patton'; 'Richard Good' > Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings > > One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' differential upgrade and > Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings in the trailing arms. > Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this was a good time to > replace > the bushings with his product...........but first I had to remove the old > rubber bushings. I've read about how difficult and how easy it can be, so > here's how I did it....and it was very easy > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as dito9561 at bellsouth.net From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Wed Jan 16 03:03:48 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 05:03:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Way off topic; for Seattle References: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5301@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <001c01c8580e$7fd4d460$6101a8c0@phoenix> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2D686@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Sorry for the wasted bandwidth, but I have a question that perhaps a could of listers could help with. Can anybody from the Seattle, WA area send me a list of a couple of good computer parts stores or big box that sells graphics cards? I have an engineer flying into Seattle today who needs to buy an Asus 8600 GTS silent/HDCP/256 graphics card for a cinema system as soon as he touches down at midday before driving to Monroe. Cheers, Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 16 05:31:00 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 12:31:00 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Way off topic; for Seattle In-Reply-To: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2D686@exchange.terra-incognita.net> References: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5301@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <001c01c8580e$7fd4d460$6101a8c0@phoenix> <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07C2D686@exchange.terra-incognita.net> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A535A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> If he is flying into SEA and driving into Seattle there is a Fry's not too far away in Renton, exit 5 off 405. http://shop3.outpost.com/isp/renton.html Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark Hooper Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 5:04 AM To: Triumphs; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Way off topic; for Seattle Sorry for the wasted bandwidth, but I have a question that perhaps a could of listers could help with. Can anybody from the Seattle, WA area send me a list of a couple of good computer parts stores or big box that sells graphics cards? I have an engineer flying into Seattle today who needs to buy an Asus 8600 GTS silent/HDCP/256 graphics card for a cinema system as soon as he touches down at midday before driving to Monroe. Cheers, Mark Hooper 1972 TR6 _______________________________________________ From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 16 05:51:56 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 04:51:56 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <392932.41545.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> We had a tech session a while back & one guy (Greg Donegan) brought a long piece of threaded rod with washers & nuts on each end. The threaded rod diameter must be just smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing holes. The rod must be long enough to span both bushings plus a little extra of course. Slide the rod through both bushings. Put a nut & small washer on one end(the end that you're drawing thru). On the other end have a larger washer & nut...one that will not fit thru a bushing sleeve. Tighten the nut & behold the magic...it will pull the other bushing right thru. No drilling, cutting, or burning. Simply reverse the process for the other bushing. I was just amazed seeing this after having fought with c-clamps & pieces of PVC. Cheers, Todd --- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' > differential upgrade and > Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings > in the trailing arms. > Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this > was a good time to > replace the bushings with his product...........but > first I had to remove > the old rubber bushings. I've read about how > difficult and how easy it can > be, so here's how I did it....and it was very easy > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm > > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 16 06:22:28 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 08:22:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings In-Reply-To: <392932.41545.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <000001c857f3$156e51c0$210110ac@bobspc> <392932.41545.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000d01c85842$daf0f750$210110ac@bobspc> Todd, That's the method Richard Good recommends in the directions that come with his Nylatron bushing kit. I didn't have a piece of threaded rod that was long enough to span both bushings so I modified it do one side at a time. No Home Depot run required! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Todd Bermudez [mailto:red_tr250 at yahoo.com] Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 7:52 AM To: Bob Danielson; 'Triumphs'; '6pack' Cc: acekraut11 at aol.com; 'Rick Patton'; 'Richard Good' Subject: Re: [6pack] Trailing Arm Bushings We had a tech session a while back & one guy (Greg Donegan) brought a long piece of threaded rod with washers & nuts on each end. The threaded rod diameter must be just smaller than the inner diameter of the bushing holes. The rod must be long enough to span both bushings plus a little extra of course. Slide the rod through both bushings. Put a nut & small washer on one end(the end that you're drawing thru). On the other end have a larger washer & nut...one that will not fit thru a bushing sleeve. Tighten the nut & behold the magic...it will pull the other bushing right thru. No drilling, cutting, or burning. Simply reverse the process for the other bushing. I was just amazed seeing this after having fought with c-clamps & pieces of PVC. Cheers, Todd --- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > One of my winter projects includes the Goodparts' > differential upgrade and > Richard Good recommends installing Nylatron bushings in the trailing > arms. > Seeing as my bushings were over 10 years old, this was a good time to > replace the bushings with his product...........but first I had to > remove the old rubber bushings. I've read about how difficult and how > easy it can be, so here's how I did it....and it was very easy > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/TrailingArmBushings.htm > > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > ____________________________________________________________________________ ________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.4/1227 - Release Date: 1/16/2008 1:40 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.4/1227 - Release Date: 1/16/2008 1:40 AM From mcmeganutt at aol.com Wed Jan 16 07:51:54 2008 From: mcmeganutt at aol.com (mcmeganutt at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 09:51:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Ebay Feedback Satisfaction Message-ID: <8CA26667876B420-6C8-46C7@FWM-M37.sysops.aol.com> This will be my last list comment on this subject, we can take it off list if you like. I can't get no satisfaction until I know the buyer is happy. (apologies to the Rolling Stones) . You the buyer bid, pay promptly, I ship and communicate and then the buyer decides he has made a mistake, (color doesn't match, real example,) and he wants to return it and wants all his money back. I tell him I'm sorry no return, he threatens negative feedback, I stand by my guns and he leaves no feedback at all but threatens bad karma and veiled threats of retribution. If I had left him positive feedback before I knew he was , shall we say discontented, he most likely would have left me negative for not accepting his terms versus my stated terms. Fred 70 TR6 CC54944L FIT ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From TR6UO at aol.com Wed Jan 16 09:32:01 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 11:32:01 EST Subject: [6pack] Ebay Feedback Satisfaction Message-ID: Fred, Thanks for your thoughts. Yeah, we should leave it alone. We so don't agree. But not to worry, you're in good company. So many honest, legitimate sellers just don't see how much it would benefit them to weed out the bad sellers with the undeserved positive feedback. I can only hope I'm dealing with someone like yourself in future transactions. But I really have no way of knowing, which is my whole point. Anyway, I agree that that's enough said. Regards, Steve '72 CCUO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Jan 16 12:58:33 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 11:58:33 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement In-Reply-To: "John North" 's message of Tue, 15 Jan 2008 12:53:09 -0500 Message-ID: <9763-478E61E9-721@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> FWIW---There are several places on the TR where the location of the seal can be moved farther up or down, giving a new area for the new seal to ride. All we're trying to do here is stay out of any groove that has been worn into the shaft. Changing the location by as little as .090 could be enough. I found this to work on the rear engine seal, tranny tail shaft, & diff pinion shaft. Turning around the bushing on the crankshaft.will also give a new spot for the front engine seal. Dick From: johncnorth at gmail.com(John North) Alan, can you tell us what speedie sleeve you are using and the process for installing? Seems like this seal always leaks... John North On Jan 14, 2008 10:13 PM, Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: Its time to replace the clutch on the TR6; I almost got run over trying to accelerate onto I-85 today. Its probably got about 2 weeks left in it before it totally quits. The Luk kit came a few days ago. Now I am waiting on a Speedie Sleeve to put on the rear crank. Any tips on pulling the trannie. How difficult is it to lift out? I remember some talk about using some dowels to line it up on the install. Thanks Al ______________________________________________ From 6parts at charter.net Wed Jan 16 14:18:52 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 16:18:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] clutch Replacement References: <709581.23363.qm@web60613.mail.yahoo.com> <01b501c857f7$456ba400$03d30c47@alan> <001a01c85853$7b461720$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <001001c85885$653fbdf0$03d30c47@alan> Its probably at least 130,000. I"ve had a few periods of inoperable speedo, & speedo changes. British car show , will travel Ft. Myers to Mass and all points in between. Daily driver Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stuart Thompson" To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2008 10:21 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] clutch Replacement > You have put over 100K miles on your TR6 since 2002? > > >> Clutch was replaced in 2001 or 2, now its been over 100k miles. >> > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: > 269.19.5/1228 - Release Date: 1/16/2008 9:01 AM From 6parts at charter.net Wed Jan 16 14:35:16 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 16 Jan 2008 16:35:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Replacement References: <611549.87342.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001701c85887$af81d590$03d30c47@alan> Your not referring to my original British love beads made in China? Started today, with removing inlaid carpets, lazyboy chairs, armrest, console, a/c compressor, shroud, and decadent stereo. Tomorrow is the hood and hopefully the engine. Cheers, Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bermudez" To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net>; "Oliver" ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 15, 2008 9:49 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Replacement > Al, > > I've done the job by myself...several times > unfortunately. I think the extraction is almost > ALWAYS easier than the reinstall. Have yourself a > towel or something to cover the floor, this is of > course after you've removed the passenger seat & all > the other crap(er, i mean BLING) you have in yer car. > Have a jack handy to raise/lower the engine as > required. You may also have to use the jack on > reinstall. In fact, it may be handy to have 2 > jacks...one for the engine & one for the gearbox. > Yes, you should have some dowels(correct size bolts > will do) for the install about 3 & 7 o'clock. > Sometimes the holes on the bell housing get mushroomed > making it difficult to tell which holes are larger. > May be easier to tell from the engine plate side. The > bolts are actually larger(not sure of size) for those > 2 holes. The gearbox usually requires some "wiggling" > at the back end and the engine will require some > up/down movement, but it's do-able! I did > mine...overdrive too. > > Toad From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Thu Jan 17 09:30:26 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 08:30:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC Message-ID: <95491.57066.qm@web33515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I got a weekly email from Hemmings that features two things; one sorta pertinent to our hobby, and one that's not. The former is a soda media blaster that appears to be what I've been looking for - it's compact and doesn't need a nine million PSI compressor to run it. It's just what I need for backyard metal preparation and I don't have to worry about cleaning up nasty spent sand or plastic media. It's probably not great for preparing an entire car body, but seems like just the thing for small projects. The other feature is about the new GM duramax 4.5L diesel V8. It's turbocharged, which isn't unusual. What IS unique is that the exhaust ports are on TOP the heads. They lead directly into the turbo and catalytic converter located in the valley between the heads. This reduces turbo lag and lights off the catalyst sooner, thereby reducing cold start emissions and improving fuel economy. Diesel still have issues, but when you look at what's happening in Europe with the diesels and some of the work done by Gale Banks, diesels may well be the "hot-rod" motor of the near future. They ain't just fer trucks, Skeeter! JJ From grant at bowtie6.com Thu Jan 17 09:43:14 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 11:43:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC In-Reply-To: <95491.57066.qm@web33515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <95491.57066.qm@web33515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000301c85928$117e8f90$347baeb0$@com> >> but when you look at what's happening in Europe with the diesels Diesel... Last October I had a chance to go on vacation to Spain. I was amazed at the amount of cars with "TDI" on the back decklid. I did rent a car, not a diesel, but driving on secondary roads as well as their version of a freeway I was surprised to see a vast amount of diesel powered vehicles. Ditto for city streets, either in Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, etc. In addition, when I did not drive the great majority of the taxis were diesel powered - the nicest one being a TDI Merc. Very nice indeed and not a slouch in any way... I did have to fill up a couple of times the rental car, and every time I noticed two types of gasoline (all higher octane than ours) and two types of diesel: 'regular' and 'premium' versions. FWIW... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 17 11:56:34 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 18:56:34 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC References: <95491.57066.qm@web33515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000301c85928$117e8f90$347baeb0$@com> Message-ID: <005601c8593a$ae99a820$0201a8c0@Bevan> Joseph Grant wrote: > I was surprised to see a vast amount of diesel powered vehicles. Ditto for > city streets, either in Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, etc. Small high speed diesels in cars have been popular in Europe for decades, accounting for substantial percentages in new car sales. Longevity and fuel economy are the key features that endear them to many, while the cost of fuel in many European countries is significantly lower than gasoline. I've run several diesel cars myself and my last one was a 1.9 litre Citroen Xantia with a turbocharger as stock. With this car, I regularly achieved nearly 50mpg on mixed driving and with no loss of performance in high speed driving. The days when small diesels were a pain to use because of their noise, vibration and exhaust smell are over. They are quiet, amazingly smooth, very responsive with truckloads of torque at very low rpm and supremely reliable. I suppose the only downside I can think of is the clatter on a cold start. Sounds rather like fire-irons being thrown down a metal staircase but that's a very small price to pay for the incredible economy, relaibility and driving pleasure that they offer. Were Triumphs still being made, there is no doubt a range of diesels would feature prominently in the product offering, bearing in mind that sports cars were only a small proportion of the company's total output. Jonmac From grego at sandesco.com Thu Jan 17 12:33:14 2008 From: grego at sandesco.com (grego at sandesco.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 11:33:14 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC In-Reply-To: <005601c8593a$ae99a820$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <95491.57066.qm@web33515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000301c85928$117e8f90$347baeb0$@com> <005601c8593a$ae99a820$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <20080117113314.5yutbdhsx008w004@webmail.dsl-only.net> Quoting John Macartney : > Joseph Grant wrote: >> I was surprised to see a vast amount of diesel powered vehicles. Ditto for >> city streets, either in Madrid, Barcelona, Seville, etc. ... > performance in high speed driving. The days when small diesels were > a pain to use because of their > noise, vibration and exhaust smell are over. They are quiet, > amazingly smooth, very responsive with > truckloads of torque at very low rpm and supremely reliable. I'll second that! I have an F350 crew-cab long bed diesel that gets better mileage than my TR6. I run biodiesel so overall, it is better on the environment than our Honda Civic! That and it's a turbo charged V8 with almost 600ft/lbs of torque. When I floor it and spool up the turbo, it sounds simply awesome. Gets going amazingly fast. That and it's 8,000lbs. I love diesels! But don't worry, I am not an idiot truck racer. I usually drive it very conservatively, being aware of the stopping distance and mass. -grego From slbridge at hotmail.com Thu Jan 17 12:39:14 2008 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 19:39:14 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC Message-ID: John, Do you know what the difference is between the "Regular" and "Premium" Diesel fuel in Spain? _________________________________________________________________ Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star power. http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Jan 17 16:33:38 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 23:33:38 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC References: Message-ID: <007201c85961$6352a700$0201a8c0@Bevan> Steve Bridge wrote: > John, Do you know what the difference is between the "Regular" and > "Premium" Diesel fuel in Spain? Sorry Steve, but I don't. In fact I didn't even know they sold two grades - but could it be regular and bio-diesel? Certainly throughtout Western Europe there are two grades of unleaded - normal and super - but don't be misled by the seemingly higher octane values. In Europe, we use what is called the Research Method (ROM grade) while in the States you use another. Although I *think* the fuel quality is the same, I've heard it said here by those who know about octane measuring standards, that our 95 octane equates to your 91. Jonmac From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 17 17:03:13 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 16:03:13 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC In-Reply-To: <000301c85928$117e8f90$347baeb0$@com> References: <95491.57066.qm@web33515.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <000301c85928$117e8f90$347baeb0$@com> Message-ID: Joe: The octane numbers on European gas are obtained differently than US numbers, and will always be higher. Europe uses RON (Research Octane Number) and the US uses the average of RON and MON (Motor Octane Number). The MON value is always approximately 10 points lower than the RON value, because the fuel is burned using a much higher inlet air temperature. The higher the inlet temperature on our TR6s (or any internal combustion engine) the lower the effective octane rating. If you look at a US pump next time you fill up, somewhere on the pump will be something like "R+M/2" which is simply saying that the octane is the average of RON and MON. In the case of European (RON) Octane numbers, subtract 5 to 6 points and you will get the equivalent US rating. I think when you do that you will see that US fuel is as good as the European stuff. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Joseph Grant Sent: January 17, 2008 8:43 AM To: 'Jim Jones'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC Last October I had a chance to go on vacation to Spain. I did have to fill up a couple of times the rental car, and every time I noticed two types of gasoline (all higher octane than ours) and two types of diesel: 'regular' and 'premium' versions. FWIW... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From Pimento73 at aol.com Thu Jan 17 21:26:33 2008 From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Jan 2008 23:26:33 EST Subject: [6pack] diesel, was Hemmings email - non LBC Message-ID: In a message dated 1/17/2008 11:46:50 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, grant at bowtie6.com writes: I did have to fill up a couple of times the rental car, and every time I noticed two types of gasoline (all higher octane than ours) and two types of diesel: 'regular' and 'premium' versions. I've heard that the pump colors (diesel vs. gasoline) in the U.K. can be a bit confusing to Americans - anybody else hear about the fellow who filled his friends Triumph up with diesel at a fuel stop on the Round Britain Reliability Run? Cheers, Jack Mc **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Jan 18 07:03:39 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 09:03:39 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000901c859da$edc01430$c9403c90$@com> I did a little research on this, and found from a reputable source that the more expensive 'premium' diesel has less sulphur content hence the difference in price. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of steve bridge Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2008 14:39 To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Hemmings email - non LBC John, Do you know what the difference is between the "Regular" and "Premium" Diesel fuel in Spain? From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Fri Jan 18 15:14:18 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2008 22:14:18 -0000 Subject: [6pack] diesel, was Hemmings email - non LBC References: Message-ID: <015d01c85a1f$78bd7f70$0201a8c0@Bevan> Jack Mc wrote: > I've heard that the pump colors (diesel vs. gasoline) in the U.K. can be a > bit confusing to Americans - anybody else hear about the fellow who filled his > friends Triumph up with diesel at a fuel stop on the Round Britain > Reliability Run? Here's the guide for visitors: Pump hose colour: Green - Unleaded 95 octane Green - Unleaded 98 octane The pump clearly identifies which type of unleaded you're buying Black - Diesel - one grade only in the UK Red - Lead replacement gasoline. This has not proved popular since leaded fuel became unobtanium in 2000. Basically, its 98 octane unleaded with added potassium as the lead substitute. I think (from memory) these hose colours are the same throughout Europe Jonmac From ggelhar at earthlink.net Sat Jan 19 06:45:25 2008 From: ggelhar at earthlink.net (Greg Gelhar) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 07:45:25 -0600 Subject: [6pack] VTR 2002 Photos Wanted Message-ID: <380-220081619134525640@earthlink.net> As the new Historian for the Minnesota Triumphs, I am attempting to gather photos from the 2002 VTR Convention. You might remember the convention was held at Treasure Island Hotel and Casino in Red Wing Minnesota. While our long past Historian did an excellent job of making a photo album when we hosted the 1998 VTR, no one in recent years has put a photo album together covering the 2002 VTR event. Almost all the photos I have are from the Concours & Car Show. At our most recent club meeting it was suggested I look outside the club to obtain more pictures. Here is my plea. Dose anyone who attended the 2002 VTR have any photos from the event? I am looking for anything from behind the scenes to action from each day of the event. It is my intent to have coverage for each of the four days from those days in the Summer of 2002. I can accept donations of photos, pictures on loan to be scanned and returned, and digital photos sent by e-mail. Please let me know if you have anything. Even if you cant' dig them up right away I would like to know if they exist. Greg Gelhar ggelhar at earthlink.net From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sat Jan 19 07:50:28 2008 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 06:50:28 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] tr6 for sale Message-ID: <861135.41814.qm@web30409.mail.mud.yahoo.com> i have a 76 tr6 for sale that i have been rebuilding have invested alot so far no more time or money to finish i'm in the ny area frame is good write for details if anyone is interested looking for 5500 to recoupe some of my investment . --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 19 14:02:22 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 21:02:22 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> In another forum recently there was a discussion about door mirrors. It seems that the US cars had either none or a single bullet mirror on the driver side door. The UK cars seem have had the more traditional trapezoidal mirror on a short adjustable arm. The bullet mirrors look ok and work fine on the driver side but are a challenge to get to work on the passenger side. I wonder if anyone has installed a door mirror that works for both sides and what they look like on the TR ?. An example of a current non bullet door mirror is the TEX brand. There is a picture of a set on Ebay, item number 190069951866 If you have driver and passenger door mirrors of this style, what did you get, how are they working out for you and if you have a picture posted somewhere could you provide a URL ? Thanks, Stan From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 19 16:19:50 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 17:19:50 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <001401c85af2$254b3390$800101df@garage.local> Stan - i have no idea where the mirrors came from as they were on the car when i got it. they appear to be standard, bullet type mirrors, and they work very well. i am glad i have them. there are numerous pictures of the car from different angles. http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/tr6/ oliver > If you have driver and passenger door mirrors of this style, what did you > get, > how are they working out for you and if you have a picture posted > somewhere > could you provide a URL ? > > Thanks, From 6parts at charter.net Sat Jan 19 18:06:40 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 20:06:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 shifter Message-ID: <005001c85b00$b75863d0$03d30c47@alan> I finished day 3 of engine + transmission swap out. Good thing I don't charge by the hour. Put a new clutch in donar engine. I noticed that the shifter is a lot looser in the trans out of the wreck, meaning it has up and down play that my shifter doesn't have. I will be removing the top cover of that trans to give me more room on the install of the engine & transmission. I still have the exhaust pipes in there and the shifter from my car scraped coming out with the engine. Is there anything I should be looking for, as to be causing the up and down play in the shifter? I don't see anything in the parts book that would allow for adjustment. thanks Al www.triumphowners.com/624 From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 19 18:11:28 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 20:11:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> Ok, so while I've got the drive train out I figured I'd do some routine maintenance and replace all the u-joints. Lord knows if they've ever been replaced. As per a suggestion from a fellow lister as well as the directions in Haynes, they should "pop" right out with some hammer tapping on the yoke. Well, that technique seems to work on some but not all. I've tried both a regular hammer (yes I know I shouldn't be striking metal with a hammer due to risk of chipping....BTW...the boys on Mythbusters dispelled that myth) and a deadblow hammer, striking the yoke collar and all around with increasing force. But some seem to be just frozen in place. I even got one u-joint out but the cap is solidly stuck. Before I lock them in drill press and attack with drill power, does anyone have any suggestions? Would heat help? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Jan 19 18:39:00 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 01:39:00 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <2093760514-1200793277-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-518321538-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Stan, I have bullet mirrors on both sides and had trouble getting the pass side aligned so I could see so I went to Walmart and got one of the 3 3/4" stick on concave mirror and it works like a charm. Now I have a panoramic view on the pass side. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Foster, Stan" Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 21:02:22 To:6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In another forum recently there was a discussion about door mirrors. It seems that the US cars had either none or a single bullet mirror on the driver side door. The UK cars seem have had the more traditional trapezoidal mirror on a short adjustable arm. The bullet mirrors look ok and work fine on the driver side but are a challenge to get to work on the passenger side. I wonder if anyone has installed a door mirror that works for both sides and what they look like on the TR ?. An example of a current non bullet door mirror is the TEX brand. There is a picture of a set on Ebay, item number 190069951866 If you have driver and passenger door mirrors of this style, what did you get, how are they working out for you and if you have a picture posted somewhere could you provide a URL ? Thanks, Stan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Jan 19 18:58:38 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 01:58:38 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <2093760514-1200793277-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-518321538-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <2093760514-1200793277-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-518321538-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A596A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Thanks Lou. I'm actually using a stick on mirror to enhance the passenger side bullet as you can see in this picture. It was the closest fit that I could find (not quite 4 inches diameter) and although it works quite well I would prefer something that looked better and didn't require this degree of improvisation to function.. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20Fall%20Back%20Tour%202 007/DSC_0082.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: lfm614 at aol.com [mailto:lfm614 at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:39 PM To: Foster, Stan; 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net; TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Stan, I have bullet mirrors on both sides and had trouble getting the pass side aligned so I could see so I went to Walmart and got one of the 3 3/4" stick on concave mirror and it works like a charm. Now I have a panoramic view on the pass side. Lou From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Jan 19 20:10:46 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:10:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] U-Joint Removal In-Reply-To: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <49f668fe0801191910k5f7385f0qa570d76278166e19@mail.gmail.com> I used two sockets and a large vise as a press. One socket big enough to accept the cup, the other small enough to press it through from the other side. Be careful, if you press them too far the u-joint will damage the yoke. John North On Jan 19, 2008 8:11 PM, Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> wrote: > Ok, so while I've got the drive train out I figured I'd do some routine > maintenance and replace all the u-joints. Lord knows if they've ever been > replaced. As per a suggestion from a fellow lister as well as the directions > in Haynes, they should "pop" right out with some hammer tapping on the yoke. > Well, that technique seems to work on some but not all. I've tried both a > regular hammer (yes I know I shouldn't be striking metal with a hammer due > to risk of chipping....BTW...the boys on Mythbusters dispelled that myth) > and a deadblow hammer, striking the yoke collar and all around with > increasing force. But some seem to be just frozen in place. I even got one > u-joint out but the cap is solidly stuck. Before I lock them in drill press > and attack with drill power, does anyone have any suggestions? Would heat > help? > > Thanks > > Bob > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 > 7:32 PM > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Jan 19 20:19:22 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 03:19:22 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A596A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><2093760514-1200793277-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-518321538-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A596A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <573103339-1200799302-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1107210280-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Stan, The other thing you can do is to pop the glass out of the right bullet and go to a salvage yard and get a pass side mirror glass from a newer car (the ones that have the objects may appear closer warning). Then take both to a glass shop and have them cut the new glass to the same size and put it in. That should work as well. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Foster, Stan" Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 01:58:38 To:"lfm614 at aol.com" , "6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net"<6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net>, TR-6 list<6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Thanks Lou. I'm actually using a stick on mirror to enhance the passenger side bullet as you can see in this picture. It was the closest fit that I could find (not quite 4 inches diameter) and although it works quite well I would prefer something that looked better and didn't require this degree of improvisation to function.. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20Fall%20Back%20Tour%202 007/DSC_0082.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: lfm614 at aol.com [mailto:lfm614 at aol.com] Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 8:39 PM To: Foster, Stan; 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net; TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Stan, I have bullet mirrors on both sides and had trouble getting the pass side aligned so I could see so I went to Walmart and got one of the 3 3/4" stick on concave mirror and it works like a charm. Now I have a panoramic view on the pass side. Lou _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Jan 19 20:30:43 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:30:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket thrust washers Message-ID: <49f668fe0801191930v69fbead5x62d258d1e0038262@mail.gmail.com> Look at the difference between the aftermarket variety and original equipment (AE) brand. The AE one has maybe three or four times the thickness of bronze. The AE brand came from BPNW, the aftermarket from TRF... Both standard size. http://picasaweb.google.com/johncnorth/ThrustWashers John North From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Jan 19 20:53:41 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 22:53:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket thrust washers In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0801191930v69fbead5x62d258d1e0038262@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0801191930v69fbead5x62d258d1e0038262@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <003501c85b18$0e4a1d20$210110ac@bobspc> John, I also found this source (http://www.britishcarweek.org/tr6.html) I have no experience with him but thought I'd share the link. I love it when the TR enthusiasts come up with their own solutions. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:31 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket thrust washers Look at the difference between the aftermarket variety and original equipment (AE) brand. The AE one has maybe three or four times the thickness of bronze. The AE brand came from BPNW, the aftermarket from TRF... Both standard size. http://picasaweb.google.com/johncnorth/ThrustWashers John North 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.7/1232 - Release Date: 1/18/2008 7:32 PM From apackard68 at comcast.net Sun Jan 20 00:49:30 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 23:49:30 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Cleaning up my Differential Message-ID: <20080120075045.30421187653@autox.team.net> Hi list. I found a local metal polishing business and brought him my thermostat housing, gas cap (aluminum magnetic closing on a TR250), alloy valve cover, and Nissan Differential cover. His process is to media blast everything and then polish away until a mirror finish is reached. Getting my diff rear cover back inspired me to clean up the Richard Good Nissan (actually Infiniti) differential with a wire wheel and paint. I even cleaned and painted the bolt heads. I attached a link to photos of the finished product. The finned rear cover came from the 3.92:1 ratio unit I initially had before going to the 3.69:1 ratio unit. I still have the 3.92 if anyone is interested. It has been altered to accept the adapting kit Richard Good sells and was used for a year or so before I went to the stock ratio unit. I'm now in the midst of cleaning up my Toyota tranny. I'm not going to get it to gleam like the diff, but at least remove the stuck-on dried grit that is on it. I'm determined to have a pretty rolling chassis picture on the Ratco frame just before the body is mounted! http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.45xoq1dr &x=0&y=5yd78d Andy CD6746L HVDA From machinemd at msn.com Sun Jan 20 01:23:44 2008 From: machinemd at msn.com (STEVE STERN) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 03:23:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Message-ID: If Walmart is still selling the same stick on mirrors as a year ago, I cut the mirror out of the plastic and used the glass to replace the bullet mirror glass. It was exactly the same diameter. You only need to push the original glass into the bullet, the plastic surround can then be removed and then the glass. Takes only 5 minutes and works great. Steve Stan, I have bullet mirrors on both sides and had trouble getting the pass side aligned so I could see so I went to Walmart and got one of the 3 3/4" stick on concave mirror and it works like a charm. Now I have a panoramic view on the pass side. Lou From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sun Jan 20 01:56:15 2008 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:56:15 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Updates to website for Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive 2009 Message-ID: <02b601c85b42$513b7780$0201a8c0@Bevan> The website has expanded again: 1. There is now an opportunity for readers to send in queries. 2. A more detailed map of the overall route showing current stops has been provided. This is a .pdf file and allows you to zoom in onto the route and move around on it to see it in a little more detail 3. The Route page is now divided up into 12 sectors. You'll be able to read about each sector and where we're going. We've used up every WEEKEND except one, in the period 4 July to 30 Sept 2009 but virtually all of the WEEKDAY EVENINGS are still open for informal visits to clubs that are based near the route. 4. Photographs of the donated UK spec Spitfire will be uploaded next weekend. 5. Revised Powerpoint presentations are in progress and will soon be available for free download John Macartney Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From DLylis at aol.com Sun Jan 20 06:28:16 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 08:28:16 EST Subject: [6pack] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: Bob, I have not looked at the links offered, but my technique is primitive, but very effective. (check the sizes as I am working from memory) You will need a 1 1/16 socket, a 3/4 socket, a cold chisel of medium to large proportions, and a 1/8 drift, and a BFH. 1 1/16 goes on the floor (or sturdy bench), 3/4 pounds the caps though until spider hits the other side. Flip it over and put the cold chisel against the spider and drive it back the other way. Drive the drift through the bearings on one side until you hit the back side of the cap, and hit until it pops out. Repeat. Nothing will be usable other than the remaining yolk, shaft, etc. but then again, its worn. I reinstall the new one with the reverse of this technique with a lighter hand and an SFH rather than a BFH and I can do the whole thing in about ten minutes. I gotta tell you. I tried the tap the yolk thing and figured I was not going to live long enough to get it out that way. Maybe my technique needs a little more finesse. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sun Jan 20 20:11:58 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 22:11:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Thrust Washer question References: Message-ID: <005301c85bdb$638d9e10$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> The recent discussion on TR6 thrust washers was very timely ... my parts car block is on its way be machined tomorrow (bored, decked, cleaned, cam bearings, etc.). I'm am toying with the idea of having the 4th main bearing cap machined to allow for a full 360 deg thrust washer setup. I have read of others doing so, and have looked through my all notes and books, I cannot find anything that gives any advice on how this is done ... I'm guessing that the 4th main bearing cap needs to be machined to the same depth and outer dia as the thrust washer location on the block ... I did find MJBs advice that the lower thrust washer be pinned in place with a roll pin, and his follow-up advice that said that pinning was a bad idea ... I have a very vague recollection from my early 4 pot Ford engines that the thrust washers had cutout tabs to stop them rotating (I think...). If a 360 deg thrust washer is installed by machining the main bearing cap, is there a need to have a means to stop them rotating .... I'm guessing yes ... if yes, any suggestions on how this might be done? I did look at Bob Danielson's link to the solid thrust washer solution ... interesting, but I'm guessing, I still need to machine the cap! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 21 08:46:30 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 07:46:30 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Thrust Washer question In-Reply-To: <005301c85bdb$638d9e10$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <005301c85bdb$638d9e10$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: Tony: You do indeed need to machine the cap. As for how to pin the bearings, you use a countersunk machine screw made of brass. Use brass because it will not damage the journal on the crank if the bearing wears excessively, allowing the screw head to contact the crank. Use two per bearing on the bearings mounted on the bearing cap. I would imagine a 4-40 countersunk brass screw would be just fine. This requires two drilled/tapped holes for each bearing, as will as drilling and countersinking the two bearings in two places (total of four countersinks). Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Gordon Sent: January 20, 2008 7:12 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] TR6 Thrust Washer question I did find MJBs advice that the lower thrust washer be pinned in place with a roll pin, and his follow-up advice that said that pinning was a bad idea ... I have a very vague recollection from my early 4 pot Ford engines that the thrust washers had cutout tabs to stop them rotating (I think...). If a 360 deg thrust washer is installed by machining the main bearing cap, is there a need to have a means to stop them rotating .... I'm guessing yes ... if yes, any suggestions on how this might be done? ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Jan 21 09:25:04 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 08:25:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A596A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><2093760514-1200793277-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-518321538-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A596A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: Someone on the list mentioned getting a 5" or larger convex mirror and having a glass shop circle cut it to the correct size. I tried this and the glass shop was adamant that it would probably break and they would not be held accountable. I said give it a try, what have I got to lose, and sure enough they broke it. I am using the peel and stick convex mirror now, and while it is not elegant, it is much safer than doing without. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: January 19, 2008 5:59 PM To: lfm614 at aol.com; 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net; TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Thanks Lou. I'm actually using a stick on mirror to enhance the passenger side bullet as you can see in this picture. It was the closest fit that I could find (not quite 4 inches diameter) and although it works quite well I would prefer something that looked better and didn't require this degree of improvisation to function.. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20Fall%20Back%20Tou r%202 007/DSC_0082.jpg Stan From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Jan 21 10:47:19 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 17:47:19 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><2093760514-1200793277-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-518321538-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A596A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5A20@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Nobody has yet reported success getting a convex mirror cut to size (I personally had a glass shop try twice before they declared defeat). Dick sent me a mail the other day saying he was motivated enough to give this a shot himself so I'll be interesting to hear how that goes. It seems odd that we cant find an off the shelf 4 inch glass convex mirror suitable for this purpose but the 3.75 inch stick on's seem to be the only commonly available option so far. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 11:25 AM To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Stan: Someone on the list mentioned getting a 5" or larger convex mirror and having a glass shop circle cut it to the correct size. I tried this and the glass shop was adamant that it would probably break and they would not be held accountable. I said give it a try, what have I got to lose, and sure enough they broke it. I am using the peel and stick convex mirror now, and while it is not elegant, it is much safer than doing without. Vance From mhooper at digiscreen.ca Mon Jan 21 12:09:41 2008 From: mhooper at digiscreen.ca (Mark Hooper) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 14:09:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5A20@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <641A525B0A2A2540B1DD0A3DE660241C07D57D49@exchange.terra-incognita.net> I have seen shops for stained glass supplies selling a glass sanding machine. It is basically a 12" square deck with a vertical spinning post sticking out of the middle. The post surface is like sandpaper, but is actually a diamond-embedded metal surface. It is used for shaping the edges of glass plates and should do a good job of reducing a mirror to fit a different backing. A local stained glass shop should be able to do that quite easily. Mark 1972 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+mhooper=digiscreen.ca at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: January 21, 2008 12:47 PM To: Navarrette, Vance Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Nobody has yet reported success getting a convex mirror cut to size (I personally had a glass shop try twice before they declared defeat). Dick sent me a mail the other day saying he was motivated enough to give this a shot himself so I'll be interesting to hear how that goes. It seems odd that we cant find an off the shelf 4 inch glass convex mirror suitable for this purpose but the 3.75 inch stick on's seem to be the only commonly available option so far. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 11:25 AM To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Stan: Someone on the list mentioned getting a 5" or larger convex mirror and having a glass shop circle cut it to the correct size. I tried this and the glass shop was adamant that it would probably break and they would not be held accountable. I said give it a try, what have I got to lose, and sure enough they broke it. I am using the peel and stick convex mirror now, and while it is not elegant, it is much safer than doing without. Vance From drsandner at embarqmail.com Mon Jan 21 12:44:02 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 14:44:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] mirror Message-ID: <39C322E8336F4CB28C6A1C118BC8EE27@randyPC> hi vance, et al, take said mirror blank to a "stained glass" shop, and ask them to cut it with the glass grinder/router. randy From grant at bowtie6.com Mon Jan 21 12:48:36 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 14:48:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5963@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><2093760514-1200793277-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-518321538-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A596A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <000301c85c66$9db45580$d91d0080$@com> Ditto here. I actually called a local automotive glass shop and the owner said he would not cut the glass because they break. I just left it at that. So, this confirms they cannot be cut to size... Interesting.... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 11:25 To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Stan: Someone on the list mentioned getting a 5" or larger convex mirror and having a glass shop circle cut it to the correct size. I tried this and the glass shop was adamant that it would probably break and they would not be held accountable. I said give it a try, what have I got to lose, and sure enough they broke it. I am using the peel and stick convex mirror now, and while it is not elegant, it is much safer than doing without. Vance From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 21 12:56:11 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 11:56:11 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors (with off topic link) In-Reply-To: <000301c85c66$9db45580$d91d0080$@com> Message-ID: <290926.69344.qm@web82614.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I bet this guy could figure out a way to cut the mirror! He appears to be a master of all things glass related. http://blog.makezine.com/archive/2008/01/make_your_own_vaccum_tube.html (a long-ish video but very interesting) From rclark at robertsonclark.com Mon Jan 21 13:12:33 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 12:12:33 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <000301c85c66$9db45580$d91d0080$@com> Message-ID: Ditto here. I actually called a local automotive glass shop and the owner said he would not cut the glass because they break. I just left it at that. So, this confirms they cannot be cut to size... Interesting.... I found this same response from glass people when I was looking for beveled safety glass for a door I was building. Most said it couldn't be done in the size I needed. Then I found someone who was able to do and didn't understand what all the fuss was about. If you are in the Central PA area, try Lancaster Paint & Glass. Even if you are not, you can probably mail it to them to try. They did my work and shipped it to me in San Diego. Bob Clark '69 TR6 PS Has anyone tried the Baby Turbo mirror from Moss? From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Jan 21 13:09:15 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 12:09:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Dental probes Message-ID: <195168.21319.qm@web82605.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I bumped into a source for dental probes for those who don't have the type of relationship with your dentist where you can ask for his spare tools. http://www.techni-tool.com/ search terms: 10 mil probe 25 mil probe dental probe all yield a different selection to choose from Kendall San Clemente, CA From PeterSchop at aol.com Mon Jan 21 13:22:35 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 15:22:35 EST Subject: [6pack] U-Joint Removal Message-ID: Bob, I just removed the U-joints on my six not long ago. I tried the tapping on the yoke method as described in the Bentley manual. So far, nothing has popped out of come apart on my TR6 as the manual states it should. I tried pressing them out with sockets with limited success. I ended going to my local Harbor Freight store and bought their 3 in 1 ball joint press for $39.95. It is a large heavy C-clamp with a hole in the end for the cap to press into. You tighten the clamp with a 1/2" x 7/8" socket. It was still a PIA but doable. The next week I went down to my local Autozone to rent a ball joint puller for my front suspension and saw that they had the same press that I had bought. The way their rental policy works, you pay a deposit worth more than the item and when you bring it back, they refund you full deposit so it is really free. Hope this helps, Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 CC26418L Bob Danielson writes: Date: Sat, 19 Jan 2008 20:11:28 -0500 From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> Subject: [6pack] U-Joint Removal To: "'Triumphs'" , "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000601c85b01$64d47800$210110ac at bobspc> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="windows-1250" Ok, so while I've got the drive train out I figured I'd do some routine maintenance and replace all the u-joints. Lord knows if they've ever been replaced. As per a suggestion from a fellow lister as well as the directions in Haynes, they should "pop" right out with some hammer tapping on the yoke. Well, that technique seems to work on some but not all. I've tried both a regular hammer (yes I know I shouldn't be striking metal with a hammer due to risk of chipping....BTW...the boys on Mythbusters dispelled that myth) and a deadblow hammer, striking the yoke collar and all around with increasing force. But some seem to be just frozen in place. I even got one u-joint out but the cap is solidly stuck. Before I lock them in drill press and attack with drill power, does anyone have any suggestions? Would heat help? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Jan 21 14:13:24 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 13:13:24 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Mon, 21 Jan 2008 17:47:19 +0000 Message-ID: <5243-47950AF4-6678@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Stan, and interested parties---I don't yet know if I can successfully cut a convex mirror to the 4.25 diam. of my particular door mirror. I did however cut a (5"x5") piece of window glass into a round (4.25") shape, that would nicely fit my bullet mirror frame. I am using somewhat crude tools, like a carbide scribe and ViseGrip pliers, to break off the edges. The starburst-like result was then hand ground with a benchmotor wheel, into its final shape. Of course I broke the first three samples! The original mirror is .075 thick. The window glass used was .090. I don't yet know the thickness of the convex mirror that will be the donor for the TR bullet mirror. It could well be that this will be the stumbling block for this exercise. There is more to this than described above. If I happen to be lucky enough to pull this off, I'll give all of the details. Dick From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Nobody has yet reported success getting a convex mirror cut to size (I personally had a glass shop try twice before they declared defeat) . Dick sent me a mail the other day saying he was motivated enough to give this a shot himself so I'll be interesting to hear how that goes. It seems odd that we cant find an off the shelf 4 inch glass convex mirror suitable for this purpose but the 3.75 inch stick on's seem to be the only commonly available option so far. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] Sent: Monday, January 21, 2008 11:25 AM To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Stan: Someone on the list mentioned getting a 5" or larger convex mirror and having a glass shop circle cut it to the correct size. I tried this and the glass shop was adamant that it would probably break and they would not be held accountable. I said give it a try, what have I got to lose, and sure enough they broke it. I am using the peel and stick convex mirror now, and while it is not elegant, it is much safer than doing without. Vance ______________________________________________ From cregg.cowan at sri.com Mon Jan 21 23:37:09 2008 From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan) Date: Mon, 21 Jan 2008 22:37:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Question on speedo & tach light colors for '73 Message-ID: <47958F15.3070808@sri.com> A few months back I bought a '73 driver. It came with the wrong tach from an earlier style dash (wrong number font and pointer), but a correct-style tach was in the trunk --- it has a broken pointer/needle. Recently the odometer stopped working and I'm planning to get the speedo repaired and want to get the correct tach repaired as well. I notice that the speedo has green "domes" for the instrument lights, as does the wrong tach. There's a small area of green paint on the inside of the case. The "correct" tach has blue "domes" with an area of dark (black?) paint inside the case. I think the instruments would look strange at night if the speedo had green lights and the tach had blue, so I'm thinking of having the tach face with the correct font installed in the case with green domes and paint. Is there any reason not to do this? More generally, can someone explain which models should have which color domes in the speedo/tach? Inquiring minds want to know.... TIA, Cregg Cowan From glccrc at ptd.net Tue Jan 22 04:03:39 2008 From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 06:03:39 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Question on speedo & tach light colors for '73 In-Reply-To: <47958F15.3070808@sri.com> Message-ID: <20080122110533.23D8B187896@autox.team.net> I think I have a tach that I bought on eBay that would work for your later 6, mine's a 1970. Be happy to take a reasonable amount for it, dude shipped it to me despite finsing out it was wrong item after the bid, although I offered to buy something else for similar money. (sigh) It sits on the bookcase in my office next to a Matchbox 6 in my color.... And would do worlds better informing you of how fast you're going since your speedo probably floats like mine. Keeps the brain cels active, doing ratio conversions when you see a cop and glance at the tach, remember what gear you're in, and .... Contact me at this email or work glc at rowesprinkler.com if you're interested. And congrats on the purchase, drivers are fun 'cause ya get to use em more often, and wasn't that the whole point of having a tr6? George Church -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cregg Cowan Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2008 1:37 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Question on speedo & tach light colors for '73 A few months back I bought a '73 driver. It came with the wrong tach from an earlier style dash (wrong number font and pointer), but a correct-style tach was in the trunk --- it has a broken pointer/needle. Recently the odometer stopped working and I'm planning to get the speedo repaired and want to get the correct tach repaired as well. I notice that the speedo has green "domes" for the instrument lights, as does the wrong tach. There's a small area of green paint on the inside of the case. The "correct" tach has blue "domes" with an area of dark (black?) paint inside the case. I think the instruments would look strange at night if the speedo had green lights and the tach had blue, so I'm thinking of having the tach face with the correct font installed in the case with green domes and paint. Is there any reason not to do this? More generally, can someone explain which models should have which color domes in the speedo/tach? Inquiring minds want to know.... TIA, Cregg Cowan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Jan 22 12:24:19 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 14:24:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] GT6 engine parts cheap - Boston Area Message-ID: <003f01c85d2c$62bd0c80$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> NFI: just came across this Craigslist posting for GT6 short block parts at a very reasonable price: http://boston.craigslist.org/sob/pts/547518979.html ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From moorejm at cogeco.ca Tue Jan 22 12:49:44 2008 From: moorejm at cogeco.ca (Mike) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 14:49:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Newcomer.... seats Message-ID: <20080122194942.DC9741BB6@fep5.cogeco.net> I just wanted to say hello. After 35 years I have returned to the Triumph fold. In 1973 I drove a new TR6 and a 750 Triumph Tiger motorcycle. After decades restoring GM musclecars I decided to return to my Triumph roots and bought a 1974 TR6. I subscribed to this list a few months ago and there is a lot of knowledge and good tips to be found here. Does anyone have a good picture of how the safety catch (black rod that locks the seat from tipping forward) is attached to the back/bottom of the seat? I know this is a "shot in the dark" but is there a source for headliner rods for the hardtop? Its fun to be back but the cars seem to have shrunk as I don't fit into them nearly as easily. Thanks Mick From trsixer at yahoo.com Tue Jan 22 14:46:42 2008 From: trsixer at yahoo.com (Jacqueline or Murry) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 13:46:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Passenger Side Mirror Message-ID: <805038.58557.qm@web81115.mail.mud.yahoo.com> All, FWIW, my solution to the problem of fabricating a usable passenger side mirror was to contact a local (Columbus Ohio) glass/windshield replacement shop (Triumph Auto Glass). They searched the available already cut stock for one that they fit to my bullet mirror (bought at TRF). All I remember was that it came from a Plymouth, (60?..70? Volare?) and fit my mirror. The only problem was that the range of adjustment had to be altered by filing a slot in the case to accommodate the wider field of view. Not cheap (~$30?) but worth it for me to able to see to the right before changing lanes. Murry Mercier Buckeye TRIUMPHS From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Jan 22 15:27:38 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 14:27:38 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Newcomer.... seats In-Reply-To: <20080122194942.DC9741BB6@fep5.cogeco.net> References: <20080122194942.DC9741BB6@fep5.cogeco.net> Message-ID: Mick: The latch attachment is pretty intuitive. Here is the best picture I know of as to how the whole thing fits together: http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/168a.gif I am guessing though that the fitting of the seat latch is not your problem, but rather how to make the darn thing latch after you have it in place. At least, that was my problem. The issue is not with the latch, but with mounting the seat to the floor runners. The first thing I did was mount the seat squarely on the runners. But that is not the way the British do things; Forget intuition and logic and get into that classically British mental space, or get yourself slightly drunk. I find that the latter is much easier than the former and equally effective..... OK, ready? The seat needs to be mounted on the runners CROOKED. The left hand seat needs to be rotated slightly counter clockwise relative to the runners, the right seat needs to be slightly clockwise relative to the runners. Under the front edge of the seat on the runners you will find two ears sticking straight up. These mate with corresponding ears on the seat frame that point down. If you look carefully, you will see that the ears on the seat frame have *two* holes, a forward and a rear hole. Left Seat: Use the FORWARD hole on the left ear and REAR hole on the right ear to attach the seat to the runners. Right Seat: Use the FORWARD hole on the RIGHT ear, the REAR hole on the left ear to attach the seat to the runners. This will do a couple of things for you; get you clearance between the seat and the "B" pillar so you can access the seat belt, and it will align the seat latch with the runners so that you can latch the rear of the seat firmly to the runners. I am betting that this is really why you are asking how to mount the latch, yes? Because you can't figure out why the darned seat won't latch to the runners...? But then again maybe not. All of this gets very confusing, like every time you do your taxes, try to understand women, or work on a British Car. But it does keep life interesting! Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mike Sent: January 22, 2008 11:50 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Newcomer.... seats Does anyone have a good picture of how the safety catch (black rod that locks the seat from tipping forward) is attached to the back/bottom of the seat? I know this is a "shot in the dark" but is there a source for headliner rods for the hardtop? Its fun to be back but the cars seem to have shrunk as I don't fit into them nearly as easily. Thanks Mick From 6parts at charter.net Tue Jan 22 20:11:12 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 22:11:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 shifter References: <005001c85b00$b75863d0$03d30c47@alan> <4792B0C1.3020103@snet.net> Message-ID: <00bb01c85d6d$9c7c7640$03d30c47@alan> After removing the shifter to put the engine and transmission in the car, I found the someone had installed the spring upside down. Reversing it took up the slack. Thanks Al > > Alan Salvatore wrote: >> I finished day 3 of engine + transmission swap out. Good thing I don't >> charge >> by the hour. >> >> Put a new clutch in donar engine. >> I noticed that the shifter is a lot looser in the trans out of the wreck, >> meaning it has up and >> down play that my shifter doesn't have. >> >> I will be removing the top cover of that trans to give me more room on >> the >> install of the engine & transmission. >> I still have the exhaust pipes in there and the shifter from my car >> scraped >> coming out with the engine. >> >> Is there anything I should be looking for, as to be causing the up and >> down >> play in the shifter? >> >> I don't see anything in the parts book that would allow for adjustment. >> >> thanks >> >> Al >> >> www.triumphowners.com/624 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> You are subscribed as jmitch at snet.net >> >> > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: > 269.19.7/1233 - Release Date: 1/19/2008 6:37 PM From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Jan 22 23:49:19 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 22 Jan 2008 22:49:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Passenger Side Mirror In-Reply-To: Jacqueline or Murry 's message of Tue, 22 Jan 2008 13:46:42 -0800 (PST) Message-ID: <9764-4796E36F-8464@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Murray---$30 is cheap, if the (Plymouth) mirror gives a decent panorama at the passenger side. You're right about the angle of the mirror where screwed to the door. This may have to be different, as there's not enough range in the swivel. Tomorrow I hope to find a source for used passenger side mirrors, so I can continue my quest to cut these to size. Probably all for naught, if these mirrors are available off the shelf. Dick Sender: m.net From: trsixer at yahoo.com(Jacqueline or Murry) All, FWIW, my solution to the problem of fabricating a usable passenger side mirror was to contact a local (Columbus Ohio) glass/windshield replacement shop (Triumph Auto Glass). They searched the available already cut stock for one that they fit to my bullet mirror (bought at TRF). All I remember was that it came from a Plymouth, (60?..70? Volare?) and fit my mirror. The only problem was that the range of adjustment had to be altered by filing a slot in the case to accommodate the wider field of view. Not cheap (~$30?) but worth it for me to able to see to the right before changing lanes. Murry Mercier Buckeye TRIUMPHS ______________________________________ From bratt at sasktel.net Wed Jan 23 00:01:20 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 01:01:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Passenger Side Mirror References: <9764-4796E36F-8464@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <000e01c85d8d$c234a0e0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Check out your local motorcycle shops. I used 4" round mirrors on my bike years ago. It is a pretty common size. Something like this: http://www.debrix.com/Items/34-0306 Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Sally or Dick Taylor" To: "Jacqueline or Murry" Subject: Passenger Side Mirror From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Jan 23 06:40:56 2008 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 07:40:56 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Passenger Side Mirror References: <9764-4796E36F-8464@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> <000e01c85d8d$c234a0e0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <005801c85dc5$95185740$7407f746@Dell320> Can I get one that reads: "Idiots in mirror are closer than they appear"? From lindquistse at gmail.com Wed Jan 23 11:44:13 2008 From: lindquistse at gmail.com (Stephen Lindquist) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 13:44:13 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror Message-ID: <7dfdd1160801231044x51ebfe97lad3e99eb12070510@mail.gmail.com> I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer passenger mirror into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a trapezoidal shaped mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a circular convex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" circle into 4" circle? I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that the flatter straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note on this list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass shop. Steve From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 23 11:52:58 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 10:52:58 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: <7dfdd1160801231044x51ebfe97lad3e99eb12070510@mail.gmail.com> References: <7dfdd1160801231044x51ebfe97lad3e99eb12070510@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: Steve: Somebody on the list mentioned going to a stained glass window maker. They use a grinder to shape glass for their windows, and probably have a better chance of success than the glass shops. It seems likely that a grinder would take longer but be less likely to break the glass, but I have not tried this myself. Several people echoed my experience of having a glass shop break a mirror while trying to cut it. One or two reported that a glass shop actually succeeded in cutting the mirror, but I noticed from their stories that they started with a larger piece of glass than I (Mine was 5"). Perhaps starting with a larger convex mirror increases the chance of success(?). Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Lindquist Sent: January 23, 2008 10:44 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer passenger mirror into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a trapezoidal shaped mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a circular convex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" circle into 4" circle? I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that the flatter straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note on this list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass shop. Steve _______________________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Jan 23 12:35:50 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 11:35:50 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: "Navarrette, Vance" 's message of Wed, 23 Jan 2008 10:52:58 -0800 Message-ID: <24942-47979716-44@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> >From what I've found so far is that straight edges are easier to get a clean break, so your trapezoid mirror is definiely an easier candidate. Grinding the edges to their final shape is less stressful on the glass. More later... Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: vance.navarrette at intel.com(Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, Jan 23, 2008, 10:52am To: lindquistse at gmail.com (Stephen Lindquist), 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror Steve: Somebody on the list mentioned going to a stained glass window maker. They use a grinder to shape glass for their windows, and probably have a better chance of success than the glass shops. It seems likely that a grinder would take longer but be less likely to break the glass, but I have not tried this myself. Several people echoed my experience of having a glass shop break a mirror while trying to cut it. One or two reported that a glass shop actually succeeded in cutting the mirror, but I noticed from their stories that they started with a larger piece of glass than I (Mine was 5"). Perhaps starting with a larger convex mirror increases the chance of success(?). Vance -----Original Message----- com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stephen Lindquist I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer passenger mirror into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a trapezoidal shaped mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a circular convex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" circle into 4" circle? I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that the flatter straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note on this list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass shop. Steve ______________________________________________ ______________________________________ From mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net Wed Jan 23 13:14:49 2008 From: mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net (Martin Romagni) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 12:14:49 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues Message-ID: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hello everyone, This year I finally have my TR6 in storage that is warm and I can work on it in the winter. Now Im tackling a number of projects. I got my passengers side high beam to work thanks to several of you on this list. FWIW, it was a bad ground. Next up is correct seat belt mounting. For reference, my TR6 has 3 point seat belts. The problem is that the drivers side seat belt is mounted incorrectly. The point that should be attached to the bottom of the B pillar is instead attached to the same point as the middle, that is, the bolt under the retractor. The reason is that the bolt in the B pillar has been broken off. I have tried to drill out the stud with no success. Ive snapped off several drill bits in an attempt to do so. So now Im looking for other alternatives to removing the stud or another way to mount that point of the seat belt. Ive considered removing the rear fender, but Im not sure I can access the broken off stud if I did that. How hard is it to cut out the B pillar? Should I weld another bolt to the bottom of the B pillar to mount the seat belt? Other things that Ive considered is relocating the mounting point to the heel board (the vertical part that is attached to the rear floor assembly). Your thoughts? Thanks in advance. Marty Romagni Painesville, OH 1974 TR6 From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Wed Jan 23 13:26:03 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 12:26:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues In-Reply-To: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <180578.36821.qm@web43141.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Marty, What ever you do, do NOT cut on the b-post if it's in good shape...it's structural...nuff said. You can try heat on the broken off portion of the bolt. How much is exposed? If there's enough to get the exposed part cherry red & a pair of vice grips on it, do it...just put lots of insulation around that area...otherwise paint will go bye bye. You're probably gonna lose some paint doing that regardless. If there's not enough to grab onto...just keep drilling. You can't access it by removing the fender...just keep at it. Cheers, Todd --- Martin Romagni wrote: > Hello everyone, > > This year I finally have my TR6 in storage that is > warm and > I can work on it in the winter. Now Im tackling a > number of projects. I got > my passengers side high beam to work thanks to > several of you on this list. > FWIW, it was a bad ground. > > Next up is correct seat belt mounting. For > reference, my TR6 has 3 point seat belts. The > problem is that the drivers side > seat belt is mounted incorrectly. The point that > should be attached to the > bottom of the B pillar is instead attached to the > same point as the middle, > that is, the bolt under the retractor. > > The reason is that the bolt in the B > pillar has been broken off. I have tried to drill > out the stud with no > success. Ive snapped off several drill bits in an > attempt to do so. > > So now > Im looking for other alternatives to removing the > stud or another way to > mount that point of the seat belt. Ive considered > removing the rear fender, > but Im not sure I can access the broken off stud if > I did that. How hard is > it to cut out the B pillar? Should I weld another > bolt to the bottom of the B > pillar to mount the seat belt? Other things that > Ive considered is relocating > the mounting point to the heel board (the vertical > part that is attached to > the rear floor assembly). > > Your thoughts? > > Thanks in advance. > > Marty > Romagni > Painesville, OH > 1974 TR6 > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From forzion at maine.rr.com Wed Jan 23 13:45:45 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 15:45:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues In-Reply-To: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Marty; BTDT ! I, too, broke several drill bits on broken seat belt bolts at the B-post. I tried heat (though not cherry red for fear of setting something afire!), Vise Grips, impact tools, and lots of different solvents. No dice. What finally worked was using a grinder to cut the exposed bolt piece as short as possible, then getting a series of new titanium-coated drill bits in diameters considerably smaller than the bolt. I believe the seat belt bolts themselves are 7/16" dia. But the drill bits I finally ended up starting with were 1/8" dia. After I succeeded in drilling through (on center using a punch) with that, I proceeded then to 3/16" dia., then 1/4, etc... After all the effort, anything that worked was great! I believe my largest diameter drill bit was 1/2". I then bought a 7/16 tap (can remember the pitch, offhand) and tapped the holes out (had two bolts to drill out!) and all's now well. Whew! Good luck! Dave CF25194U+O+TBI ----- Original Message ----- From: Martin Romagni Date: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:15 pm Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Hello everyone, > > This year I finally have my TR6 in storage that is warm and > I can work on it in the winter. Now Im tackling a number of > projects. I got my passengers side high beam to work thanks to > several of you on this list. > > FWIW, it was a bad ground. > > Next up is correct seat belt mounting. For reference, my TR6 has 3 point seat belts. > The problem is that the drivers side seat belt is mounted incorrectly. The point > that should be attached to the bottom of the B pillar is instead attached to the > same point as the middle, that is, the bolt under the retractor. > > The reason is that the bolt in the B pillar has been broken off. I have tried to > drill out the stud with no success. Ive snapped off several drill bits in an > attempt to do so. > > So now I'm looking for other alternatives to removing the stud or another > way to mount that point of the seat belt. Ive considered removing the > rear fender, but I'm not sure I can access the broken off stud if I did that. > How hard is it to cut out the B pillar? Should I weld another bolt to the > bottom of the B pillar to mount the seat belt? Other things that I've considered > is relocating the mounting point to the heel board (the vertical part that is > attached to the rear floor assembly). > > Your thoughts? > > Thanks in advance. > > Marty Romagni > Painesville, OH > 1974 TR6 From Timbo00001 at aol.com Wed Jan 23 13:57:52 2008 From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 15:57:52 EST Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror Message-ID: Why not just buy the convex mirrors sold in auto parts stores for about $2? That's what I did and it was self-adhesive, so I just stuck it onto the bullet mirror glass and it was just about a perfect fit. In a message dated 1/23/2008 1:44:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, lindquistse at gmail.com writes: I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer passenger mirror into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a trapezoidal shaped mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a circular convex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" circle into 4" circle? I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that the flatter straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note on this list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass shop. Steve 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as timbo00001 at aol.com **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From forzion at maine.rr.com Wed Jan 23 14:00:01 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:00:01 -0500 Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues In-Reply-To: References: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Marty; Oops! I meant to say that the largest diameter drill bit I used was 3/8", not 1/2". Sorry.... Dave ----- Original Message ----- From: forzion at maine.rr.com Date: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:46 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] B Pillar Blues To: Martin Romagni Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net > Marty; > > BTDT ! I, too, broke several drill bits on broken seat belt bolts > at > the B-post. I tried heat (though not cherry red for fear of > setting > something afire!), Vise Grips, impact tools, and lots of different > solvents. No dice. What finally worked was using a grinder to cut > the > exposed bolt piece as short as possible, then getting a series of > new > titanium-coated drill bits in diameters considerably smaller than > the > bolt. I believe the seat belt bolts themselves are 7/16" dia. But > the > drill bits I finally ended up starting with were 1/8" dia. After I > succeeded in drilling through (on center using a punch) with that, > I > proceeded then to 3/16" dia., then 1/4, etc... After all the > effort, > anything that worked was great! I believe my largest diameter > drill bit > was 1/2". I then bought a 7/16 tap (can remember the pitch, > offhand) > and tapped the holes out (had two bolts to drill out!) and all's > now > well. Whew! > > Good luck! > > Dave > CF25194U+O+TBI From forzion at maine.rr.com Wed Jan 23 14:05:46 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:05:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: All I've seen out there that's ready-to-go is 3-3/4" diameter.... http://snipurl.com/1y3b3 Dave '74-Six ----- Original Message ----- From: Timbo00001 at aol.com Date: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:58 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror To: lindquistse at gmail.com, 6pack at autox.team.net > Why not just buy the convex mirrors sold in auto parts stores for > about $2? > That's what I did and it was self-adhesive, so I just stuck it > onto the > bullet mirror glass and it was just about a perfect fit. > > > In a message dated 1/23/2008 1:44:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > lindquistse at gmail.com writes: > > I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer > passenger mirror > into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a > trapezoidal shaped > mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a > circularconvex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" > circle into 4" circle? > I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that > the flatter > straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note > on this > list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass > shop. > Steve > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as timbo00001 at aol.com > > > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in > shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 23 14:21:08 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:21:08 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues In-Reply-To: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, I have direct experience with this... There are three mount points for the seatbelts (for the Kangol retractables), the B-post at the floor, the inner mount is through the frame and the rear-most point which is the lower wheel well. You could count 4 points if you include the pivot on the upper wheel well on each side. The hardware for the BOLTS is essentially grade 8. This stuff is tough to drill! If the bolt snaps off (these are 1/2-20 bolts, so you need a LOT of force to snap them), you need to resort to "plan b". The reason is - and especially for the lower B-post anchor point - is that that the bolts go into a blind nut that's welded to a plate which is pretty thick (3/16 maybe?) and the plate is bent at a right angle and seam welded to two sides of the lower b-post. So it's really hard to cut the old out and put a new one in. It can be done, but it's really time comsuming. I know, I've done it. But all is not lost. You can mimic the mount point by welding a grade 8 nut to a plate which is 3" x 3" and then tacking the plate to the underside of the floor pan. You will have to get creative to do this right, because there's a lot of stuff that interferes - the frame, the trailing arm and associated outer bracket, etc. But it's a lot easier to install a hack than to cut the old piece out and install a new fab'd piece... easier unless you need to replace the b-bost, that is. If you're not doing a concours resto, the hack method is fine. Just remember that you need to spread the load so the bolt won't pull through. Most sealt belt kits that you buy for race cars use a 3" x 3" backing plate of at least 3/16" thicness. If you do that, the bolts won't pull through in the case of a shunt. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 23 14:22:16 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 13:22:16 -0800 Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues In-Reply-To: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Folks: Option 1: Heat it with acetylene and then quench it with oil. The oil will get drawn into the threads by the intense heat and it will come loose much easier. You should probably do this no matter how you finally get it out of there, as it will make removal easier no matter how you end up doing it. Option 2: Is there enough of the bolt left that you could get a pipe wrench on there? Option 3: A Dremel and a carbide bit or perhaps a grinding stone. You grind away enough material and it will come loose. I have had stuff that absolutely would not budge, and a Dremel always turned the trick, although it can be tedious depending on the hardness of the material. Option 4: It occurs to me that one might be able to MIG or gas weld a bolt head or perhaps a nut onto the stud. This would possibly be less damaging than heating it up to cherry red, particularly if the welding were done with a MIG. Random thoughts.... Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Martin Romagni Sent: January 23, 2008 12:15 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues Hello everyone, Next up is correct seat belt mounting. For reference, my TR6 has 3 point seat belts. The problem is that the drivers side seat belt is mounted incorrectly. The point that should be attached to the bottom of the B pillar is instead attached to the same point as the middle, that is, the bolt under the retractor. The reason is that the bolt in the B pillar has been broken off. I have tried to drill out the stud with no success. Ive snapped off several drill bits in an attempt to do so. Your thoughts? Thanks in advance. Marty Romagni Painesville, OH 1974 TR6 _______________________________________________ From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 23 14:27:43 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:27:43 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues In-Reply-To: References: <719886.14095.qm@web83607.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 23 Jan 2008 forzion at maine.rr.com wrote: > Marty; > > bolt. I believe the seat belt bolts themselves are 7/16" dia. But the > drill bits I finally ended up starting with were 1/8" dia. After I > succeeded in drilling through (on center using a punch) with that, I > proceeded then to 3/16" dia., then 1/4, etc... After all the effort, I know these are 20 pitch... fine thread. I guess you're right that they're 7/16" though. > Good luck! > > Dave > CF25194U+O+TBI Yer right, though, this job is a GPITA rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 23 14:34:17 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:34:17 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5E7E@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Exactly. Some of us have bullets with 4 inch diameter mirrors and so far nobody has volunteered a source for a 4 inch convex mirror and the conversation has moved to how to create one from a larger convex mirror. One thought, how well would a suitably equipped dremel do against an off the shelf convex mirror ?. The dremel takes some very thin cutting disks and rotates at very high speed so I wonder even if you couldn't cut out a circle you could cut several straight lines to reduce the amount of material and then use a grinder to generate the finished diameter. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 4:06 PM To: Timbo00001 at aol.com Cc: lindquistse at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror All I've seen out there that's ready-to-go is 3-3/4" diameter.... http://snipurl.com/1y3b3 Dave '74-Six ----- Original Message ----- From: Timbo00001 at aol.com Date: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:58 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror To: lindquistse at gmail.com, 6pack at autox.team.net > Why not just buy the convex mirrors sold in auto parts stores for > about $2? > That's what I did and it was self-adhesive, so I just stuck it > onto the > bullet mirror glass and it was just about a perfect fit. > > > In a message dated 1/23/2008 1:44:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > lindquistse at gmail.com writes: > > I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer > passenger mirror > into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a > trapezoidal shaped > mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a > circularconvex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" > circle into 4" circle? > I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that > the flatter > straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note > on this > list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass > shop. > Steve > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as timbo00001 at aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Jan 23 14:59:51 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 16:59:51 -0500 Subject: [6pack] The U-Joints are removed Message-ID: <001601c85e0b$494aa8e0$210110ac@bobspc> I got all 4 u-joints out and this really was a miserable job. I tried all the methods suggested and ended up using a combination of them. I had previously removed 2 of them so this afternoon was spent on the other two. The first one tapped out as if there was a helper underneath the cap pushing. And it all went downhill from there. A couple of them were totally frozen in place and took a lot of "vice persuasion". But they're out and the axles have been cleaned up. When I think of the guy in the video doing one in about 5 minutes, I can only shake my head and wonder what I was doing wrong. But they're out and thanks for all your suggestions. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.9/1239 - Release Date: 1/23/2008 10:24 AM From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Jan 23 18:06:58 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 17:06:58 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror References: Message-ID: <00de01c85e25$6b40d130$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Bullet mirrors 3-1/2 and 4", flat or convex. http://www.talbotco.com/talbot_mirror.htm Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 1:05 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror > All I've seen out there that's ready-to-go is 3-3/4" diameter.... > > http://snipurl.com/1y3b3 > > > Dave > '74-Six > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Timbo00001 at aol.com > Date: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:58 pm > Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror > To: lindquistse at gmail.com, 6pack at autox.team.net > > > Why not just buy the convex mirrors sold in auto parts stores for > > about $2? > > That's what I did and it was self-adhesive, so I just stuck it > > onto the > > bullet mirror glass and it was just about a perfect fit. > > > > > > In a message dated 1/23/2008 1:44:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > > lindquistse at gmail.com writes: > > > > I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer > > passenger mirror > > into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a > > trapezoidal shaped > > mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a > > circularconvex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" > > circle into 4" circle? > > I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that > > the flatter > > straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note > > on this > > list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass > > shop. > > Steve > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as timbo00001 at aol.com > > > > > > > > > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in > > shape. > > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Jan 23 15:06:58 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 22:06:58 +0000 Subject: [6pack] The U-Joints are removed In-Reply-To: <001601c85e0b$494aa8e0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001601c85e0b$494aa8e0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFE1A5E96@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bob, unfortunately you have only experienced half of the potential aggravation. Yet to come is finding that the joints are way too tight once you get the circlips in (assuming you can get them in to start with) and you have to ponder how to resolve that or risk premature failure. Most common remedy suggested is thinning the clips (flat surface, sheet of wet and dry) and making sure all of the cups are seated as far back once the clip is in its slot and pray that the joint moves freely. In my case this part was worse than the removal by an order of magnitude. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 5:00 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 'Triumph 6 Pack' Subject: [6pack] The U-Joints are removed I got all 4 u-joints out and this really was a miserable job. I tried all the methods suggested and ended up using a combination of them. I had previously removed 2 of them so this afternoon was spent on the other two. The first one tapped out as if there was a helper underneath the cap pushing. And it all went downhill from there. A couple of them were totally frozen in place and took a lot of "vice persuasion". But they're out and the axles have been cleaned up. When I think of the guy in the video doing one in about 5 minutes, I can only shake my head and wonder what I was doing wrong. But they're out and thanks for all your suggestions. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From grant at bowtie6.com Wed Jan 23 17:17:15 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 19:17:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: <00de01c85e25$6b40d130$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <00de01c85e25$6b40d130$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <001a01c85e1e$79bc1be0$6d3453a0$@com> I am seriously considering ordering a pair of the Talbot mirrors. I think they look awesome and the mirror fits! Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 20:07 To: forzion at maine.rr.com; Timbo00001 at aol.com Cc: lindquistse at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror Bullet mirrors 3-1/2 and 4", flat or convex. http://www.talbotco.com/talbot_mirror.htm Bob From levilevi at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 17:46:44 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 17:46:44 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Fw: The U-Joints are removed Message-ID: <00a001c85e22$98039610$54f30818@rolofson> Not sure how I discovered this...probably got mad and just whacked the yoke out of frustration but I too found the u-joints tight and not moving freely after having gotten then in. I found that holding one side of the yoke on the vice and striking the other side with a hammer loosened the u-joints until they turned smooth as butter. Its a bit non-intuitive but it works. Its important where the points of contact are on the yoke for both sitting on the vice (or anvil) and where you hit...which should be about half way between the caps and where the yoke comes together. Don't use the ends of the yoke or you'll probably tighten them more or worse break the yoke. I was amazed at how well it worked to free up the u-joints...must be a reverse rebound or some such thing but it worked. One of those moments of serendipity where I went from despair that something I'd worked so hard on was not working the way I knew it should to delight that I'd discovered on my own how to make it feel just right. I must have happily played with that first one flip-flopping it around for 4-5 minutes before I could believe I'd actually done something right to solve my problem. After that I boldly pushed the caps in far enough (without over doing it) so I could easily get the circlips in...knowing that I could get the u-joints to turn freely later. Did all my u-joints that way and made it to Valley Forge and back to Denver with no problems so far. Hope this helps some of you avoid some frustration at the end of your efforts...worked for me. Good Luck Bud Rolofson 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Foster, Stan To: Bob Danielson ; triumphs at autox.team.net ; 'Triumph 6 Pack' Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:06 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] The U-Joints are removed Bob, unfortunately you have only experienced half of the potential aggravation. Yet to come is finding that the joints are way too tight once you get the circlips in (assuming you can get them in to start with) and you have to ponder how to resolve that or risk premature failure. Most common remedy suggested is thinning the clips (flat surface, sheet of wet and dry) and making sure all of the cups are seated as far back once the clip is in its slot and pray that the joint moves freely. In my case this part was worse than the removal by an order of magnitude. Stan From jmitch at snet.net Wed Jan 23 18:03:13 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 20:03:13 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: <001a01c85e1e$79bc1be0$6d3453a0$@com> References: <00de01c85e25$6b40d130$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <001a01c85e1e$79bc1be0$6d3453a0$@com> Message-ID: <4797E3D1.8050201@snet.net> Did you check the price? Over $300.00 each Ouch John Mitchell 76 TR6 Joseph Grant wrote: > I am seriously considering ordering a pair of the Talbot mirrors. I think > they look awesome and the mirror fits! > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ From grant at bowtie6.com Wed Jan 23 18:06:41 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 20:06:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: <4797E3D1.8050201@snet.net> References: <00de01c85e25$6b40d130$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <001a01c85e1e$79bc1be0$6d3453a0$@com> <4797E3D1.8050201@snet.net> Message-ID: <003801c85e25$62260980$26721c80$@com> Yes, for the fully chromed ones. I don't like those. I find the spun aluminium ones much more appealing. That is what I am thinking about... Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: John Mitchell [mailto:jmitch at snet.net] Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 20:03 To: Joseph Grant Cc: 'Bob'; forzion at maine.rr.com; Timbo00001 at aol.com; lindquistse at gmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror Did you check the price? Over $300.00 each Ouch John Mitchell 76 TR6 Joseph Grant wrote: > I am seriously considering ordering a pair of the Talbot mirrors. I think > they look awesome and the mirror fits! > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ From trsix74 at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 18:09:26 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 20:09:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors In-Reply-To: <4797E3D1.8050201@snet.net> References: <00de01c85e25$6b40d130$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com><001a01c85e1e$79bc1be0$6d3453a0$@com> <4797E3D1.8050201@snet.net> Message-ID: <000001c85e25$c5c91630$6601a8c0@Robert> I think we have flogged this one to death. I am reminded of the great movie of Canon Ball Run, in which the lines so eloquently said were: "What's behind me is not important!" (The mirror went flying backwards!) Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From DLylis at aol.com Wed Jan 23 19:34:45 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:34:45 EST Subject: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors Message-ID: In a message dated 1/23/2008 8:09:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: I think we have flogged this one to death. I agree. I think we should discuss what size tires are best. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From grant at bowtie6.com Wed Jan 23 19:47:46 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:47:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004401c85e33$81520bc0$83f62340$@com> Nah! I think we need to discuss the merits of silicone vs standard brake fluid. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of DLylis at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 21:35 To: trsix74 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors In a message dated 1/23/2008 8:09:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: I think we have flogged this one to death. I agree. I think we should discuss what size tires are best. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO From wcwellbaum at cox.net Wed Jan 23 19:50:20 2008 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 18:50:20 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors References: Message-ID: <004101c85e33$dc360550$44466c44@office> Please, dear God, no! Not tires sizes! Bill Wellbaum Las Vegas ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 6:34 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors > In a message dated 1/23/2008 8:09:15 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > trsix74 at comcast.net writes: > > I think we have flogged this one to death. > > > I agree. I think we should discuss what size tires are best. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as wcwellbaum at cox.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 23 19:55:56 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 21:55:56 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror In-Reply-To: <4797E3D1.8050201@snet.net> References: <00de01c85e25$6b40d130$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <001a01c85e1e$79bc1be0$6d3453a0$@com> <4797E3D1.8050201@snet.net> Message-ID: On Wed, 23 Jan 2008, John Mitchell wrote: > Did you check the price? Over $300.00 each Ouch John Mitchell > 76 TR6 Ya, but thier TALBOT mirrors! I wish I had bought a pair of the aluminum one that I got "back in the day". $40 or so seemed like so much money then. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From trsix74 at comcast.net Wed Jan 23 20:01:45 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 22:01:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Knobs and Hinges ( was Rear View Mirrors) In-Reply-To: <004101c85e33$dc360550$44466c44@office> References: <004101c85e33$dc360550$44466c44@office> Message-ID: <001601c85e35$75680c90$6601a8c0@Robert> How about gear knobs or direction of gas caps hinges? I will start: Does your gas cap hinge sit on the left or the right. Mine is at the 12 o'clock position so that when I pull up to the gas pump, I can use either side to fill. What is the correct style of gearshift knob? Are there different styles depending on which year? I have a black leather knob with the Triumph wreath. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From Lfm614 at aol.com Wed Jan 23 20:00:59 2008 From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 22:00:59 EST Subject: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors Message-ID: How about something less controversial like break in oil? Lou **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Wed Jan 23 22:16:40 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Wed, 23 Jan 2008 22:16:40 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors Message-ID: <479DB324@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From "Robert Liam Gannon" ===== >I think we have flogged this one to death. I am reminded of the great movie >of Canon Ball Run, in which the lines so eloquently said were: "What's >behind me is not important!" (The mirror went flying backwards!) > >Robert L. Gannon Not to be overly critical of your point, but I believe it was "The Gumball Rally" and it was Raul Julia playing an Italian racing driver who stated that it was the first rule of Italian driving. The car that the rear view mirror was so eloquently discarded from was a Ferrari 365 GTB Spyder. On with the other discussion now... Please? Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From bratt at sasktel.net Wed Jan 23 23:09:09 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 00:09:09 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror References: <7dfdd1160801231044x51ebfe97lad3e99eb12070510@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <009d01c85e4f$a2a10cb0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Steve: I used to have a tenant in a building who ran a glass shop. Besides normal glass, he did stained glass, and etched glass. The etching was done with a sandblaster. If you stayed in one place too long, it would cut right through. Glass can be cut in this way. You might try a etched glass or decorative glass shop. Here is a site about etching and carving: http://www.carvedglasscompany.com/ Also, I have been in metal shops where water-jets are used to cut steel, aluminum, other metals, composits, and glass (except for safety glass) using a water based medium. You might find a shop where they will do it. When I was a student I was given a project to build which required glass dividers with finished edges and rounded corners. The tools we had to do this task was a rubber sanding block, and sheets of emery paper. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Stephen Lindquist" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 12:44 PM Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Jan 24 09:24:26 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:24:26 -0800 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild References: <004401c85e33$81520bc0$83f62340$@com> Message-ID: <006201c85ea5$96c33750$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> :~) Timely subject. There was a prior brake fluid leak on my car as evidenced by "missing paint" in the area below the master cylinder. I have heard that silicone brake fluid will not remove paint, is this true? Is there a way for me to determine what type of fluid in now in the car? Regards, Bob From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 24 06:31:35 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:31:35 EST Subject: [6pack] brake fuild Message-ID: OOOOkay! Well, before switching to Silicone check out the "new" information. I have heard rumors that the new brake parts are coming with a notice that warranties are void if Silicone is used. Do not act on this without verifying yourself. I am just offering a heads up on some scuttlebut I heard that came out of the BMTA. I use DOT4 David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From grant at bowtie6.com Thu Jan 24 06:53:26 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 08:53:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild In-Reply-To: <006201c85ea5$96c33750$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <004401c85e33$81520bc0$83f62340$@com> <006201c85ea5$96c33750$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <000601c85e90$802f1550$808d3ff0$@com> Do what you like but I have a friend who owned a pristine TR250. He switched to silicone fluid and after several months started having issues with his brakes. Eventually they ended up failing. There are some adverse reaction between the silicone and the rubber used in the master cylinder and the rest of the braking system. I realize there are many folks that use it and swear by it, but I had a chance to see firsthand what happened to my friend's car soon after conversion to silicone fluid. He ended up having to replace the entire system at quite a bit of a cost. For me, that is just not worth the risk. I don't use it. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 11:24 To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] brake fuild :~) Timely subject. There was a prior brake fluid leak on my car as evidenced by "missing paint" in the area below the master cylinder. I have heard that silicone brake fluid will not remove paint, is this true? Is there a way for me to determine what type of fluid in now in the car? Regards, Bob From emanteno at comcast.net Thu Jan 24 06:55:33 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 13:55:33 +0000 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild Message-ID: <012420081355.28540.479898D5000AB96400006F7C2213539653970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Joseph Grant" > Do what you like but I have a friend who owned a pristine TR250. He > switched to silicone fluid and after several months started having issues > with his brakes. Eventually they ended up failing. There are some adverse > reaction between the silicone and the rubber used in the master cylinder and > the rest of the braking system. I realize there are many folks that use it > and swear by it, but I had a chance to see firsthand what happened to my > friend's car soon after conversion to silicone fluid. > > He ended up having to replace the entire system at quite a bit of a cost. > For me, that is just not worth the risk. I don't use it. Interesting. Silicone fluid has performed perfectly in my TR6 for about 12 years now. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From sakirsis at consolidated.net Thu Jan 24 06:57:49 2008 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:57:49 -0600 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild References: Message-ID: <000801c85e91$1b41b8e0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> I switched over to DOT 5 almost 5 years ago on my '70 TR-6 after cleaning up the mess from DOT 3. I did replace the clutch master and blew out all the lines for the brakes plus I replaced the brake cylinders as it is almost impossible to purge all the old fluid from this area. I am in the process of doing the same with my '75 as I have had no problems at all with the DOT 5 and enjoy the peace of mind. I will also replace the brake master this time as well as the wheel cylinders. Just make sure you clear all the lines with a low pressure. Dot 5 is a pretty purple. Replacing the wheel cylinders is the tough part. Study up on it or if you know someone who has done it ask them to show you. There are some tricks which make the job a lot easier and smoother. You will like it. Steve Kirsis, '70 Damson, 75 Pimento. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 7:31 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] brake fuild > OOOOkay! Well, before switching to Silicone check out the "new" > information. I have heard rumors that the new brake parts are coming with > a notice that > warranties are void if Silicone is used. Do not act on this without > verifying yourself. I am just offering a heads up on some scuttlebut I > heard that > came out of the BMTA. > > I use DOT4 > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as sakirsis at consolidated.net From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Thu Jan 24 07:09:05 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:09:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild In-Reply-To: <000601c85e90$802f1550$808d3ff0$@com> References: <004401c85e33$81520bc0$83f62340$@com> <006201c85ea5$96c33750$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <000601c85e90$802f1550$808d3ff0$@com> Message-ID: One thing to consider in the eternal silicon vs. DOT4 argument is the condition of the brake system prior to switching. I liken it to changing from dino oil to synthetic with a motor that has 80 thousand miles on it. The motor will most likely start to leak oil in places it did not previously and I doubt that you'll receive any rewards in terms of longevity at this point. I think the brakes are a similar situation. If the rubber components in your braking system are not relatively new then switching to DOT5 may result in some negative reactions. I don't think there is any chemical reaction; I just think that the chemical makeup of DOT5 might be similar to synthetic motor oil in that it will more easily leak. Now, I must admit a few things for full and fare disclosure. #1, I'm not an engineer and I don't play one of TV. #2, Joe is hardly the person I or most of us should be disagreeing with on a regular basis. But, #3, I redid my entire braking system about 4 years ago and took the opportunity to switch to DOT5 and I've had no issues whatsoever. I also know people who switched in mid-stream with no issues, and I know of one TR enthusiast who switched 20 years and 100k miles ago who has also not seen issue one. Now, this is subject to debate, but there is one question that is easy to answer - and that is what type of fluid you have in your car now. If the brake fluid is golden in color then you've got DOT4. If the fluid is purple, blue or some other funny color then you've got DOT5. My .02 Ashford Little 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 On Jan 24, 2008, at 8:53 AM, Joseph Grant wrote: > Do what you like but I have a friend who owned a pristine TR250. He > switched to silicone fluid and after several months started having > issues > with his brakes. Eventually they ended up failing. There are some > adverse > reaction between the silicone and the rubber used in the master > cylinder and > the rest of the braking system. I realize there are many folks that > use it > and swear by it, but I had a chance to see firsthand what happened > to my > friend's car soon after conversion to silicone fluid. > > He ended up having to replace the entire system at quite a bit of a > cost. > For me, that is just not worth the risk. I don't use it. > > Joe > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > http://www.bowtie6.com/ From drsandner at embarqmail.com Thu Jan 24 07:10:39 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:10:39 -0500 Subject: [6pack] mirror Message-ID: <576098B08A5A4E37BE1011A1B25C0187@randyPC> morning vance, et al, the glass grinder does jut that, it grinds the glass to the desired shape. there should be no breakage. i have been doing stained glass over 30 years, with the only breakage when i get impatient and push too hard against the diamond arbor. randy From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Jan 24 10:48:02 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:48:02 -0800 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild References: <004401c85e33$81520bc0$83f62340$@com> <006201c85ea5$96c33750$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <000601c85e90$802f1550$808d3ff0$@com> Message-ID: <007f01c85eb1$444cdf10$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Thank you, color is the answer. I thought maybe since a prior leak caused paint damage and was repaired a change to DOT 5 might have been made. I'll leave it alone for now and add DOT 4 for top off if necessary. Thank you. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com> To: "Joseph Grant" Cc: "'Bob'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 6:09 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] brake fuild > One thing to consider in the eternal silicon vs. DOT4 argument is the > condition of the brake system prior to switching. I liken it to > changing from dino oil to synthetic with a motor that has 80 thousand > miles on it. The motor will most likely start to leak oil in places > it did not previously and I doubt that you'll receive any rewards in > terms of longevity at this point. I think the brakes are a similar > situation. If the rubber components in your braking system are not > relatively new then switching to DOT5 may result in some negative > reactions. I don't think there is any chemical reaction; I just think > that the chemical makeup of DOT5 might be similar to synthetic motor > oil in that it will more easily leak. > > Now, I must admit a few things for full and fare disclosure. #1, I'm > not an engineer and I don't play one of TV. #2, Joe is hardly the > person I or most of us should be disagreeing with on a regular basis. > But, #3, I redid my entire braking system about 4 years ago and took > the opportunity to switch to DOT5 and I've had no issues whatsoever. > I also know people who switched in mid-stream with no issues, and I > know of one TR enthusiast who switched 20 years and 100k miles ago who > has also not seen issue one. > > Now, this is subject to debate, but there is one question that is easy > to answer - and that is what type of fluid you have in your car now. > If the brake fluid is golden in color then you've got DOT4. If the > fluid is purple, blue or some other funny color then you've got DOT5. > > My .02 > > > Ashford Little > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > '70 TR6 > > > > > On Jan 24, 2008, at 8:53 AM, Joseph Grant wrote: > > > Do what you like but I have a friend who owned a pristine TR250. He > > switched to silicone fluid and after several months started having > > issues > > with his brakes. Eventually they ended up failing. There are some > > adverse > > reaction between the silicone and the rubber used in the master > > cylinder and > > the rest of the braking system. I realize there are many folks that > > use it > > and swear by it, but I had a chance to see firsthand what happened > > to my > > friend's car soon after conversion to silicone fluid. > > > > He ended up having to replace the entire system at quite a bit of a > > cost. > > For me, that is just not worth the risk. I don't use it. > > > > Joe > > '72 TR6 - CC77169 > > http://www.bowtie6.com/ From grant at bowtie6.com Thu Jan 24 08:19:22 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 10:19:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild In-Reply-To: References: <004401c85e33$81520bc0$83f62340$@com> <006201c85ea5$96c33750$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <000601c85e90$802f1550$808d3ff0$@com> Message-ID: <001301c85e9c$8044c9c0$80ce5d40$@com> Like I said in my original post, there are many folks that use the silicone fluid with no problems. My hat off to them and I am sure they are very happy with the results. Perhaps if I had not seen the results on my friend's TR250, I would have given this a shot. Close minded or anal perhaps? Sure. I saw the effort my friend had to go through to get the car roadworthy again and it was quite high. I did get a message back from someone that has been using silicone for 12 years with no problems. Like I said, that is great. I just wanted to mention my experience regarding this. The part that made me very leery was that in the TR250's case I mentioned the only thing that was changed was the fluid. I guess it is up to anyone's interpretation and as usual, your mileage may vary. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 24 08:52:37 2008 From: mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net (Martin Romagni) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 07:52:37 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] B Pillar Blues Message-ID: <332937.72511.qm@web83611.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hey everyone, Thanks for all of the replies. This is a great resource. I was asked for a photo. So, I went and took some last night. Go here http://s111.photobucket.com/albums/n148/romagnim/?action=view¤t=CIMG084 9.jpg to see the damage. You'll see that the bolt is broken off down in the hole. Also, there is a hole in the center of the stud, but I just can't make headway drilling it out. It must be a Grade 8. Not sure if that changes any replies You'll also get to see my pics from last years Rolex 24. Marty ----- Original Message ---- From: Martin Romagni To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:14:49 PM Subject: B Pillar Blues Hello everyone, This year I finally have my TR6 in storage that is warm and I can work on it in the winter. Now Im tackling a number of projects. I got my passengers side high beam to work thanks to several of you on this list. FWIW, it was a bad ground. Next up is correct seat belt mounting. For reference, my TR6 has 3 point seat belts. The problem is that the drivers side seat belt is mounted incorrectly. The point that should be attached to the bottom of the B pillar is instead attached to the same point as the middle, that is, the bolt under the retractor. The reason is that the bolt in the B pillar has been broken off. I have tried to drill out the stud with no success. Ive snapped off several drill bits in an attempt to do so. So now Im looking for other alternatives to removing the stud or another way to mount that point of the seat belt. Ive considered removing the rear fender, but Im not sure I can access the broken off stud if I did that. How hard is it to cut out the B pillar? Should I weld another bolt to the bottom of the B pillar to mount the seat belt? Other things that Ive considered is relocating the mounting point to the heel board (the vertical part that is attached to the rear floor assembly). Your thoughts? Thanks in advance. Marty Romagni Painesville, OH 1974 TR6 From Timbo00001 at aol.com Thu Jan 24 09:39:48 2008 From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 11:39:48 EST Subject: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror Message-ID: Well, with 3-3/4", there is just 1/8" around the edges. Of course, I know that Triumph owners are gluttons for punishment and revel in their anguish. In a message dated 1/23/2008 4:06:10 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, forzion at maine.rr.com writes: All I've seen out there that's ready-to-go is 3-3/4" diameter.... http://snipurl.com/1y3b3 Dave '74-Six ----- Original Message ----- From: Timbo00001 at aol.com Date: Wednesday, January 23, 2008 3:58 pm Subject: Re: [6pack] TR250 right hand mirror To: lindquistse at gmail.com, 6pack at autox.team.net > Why not just buy the convex mirrors sold in auto parts stores for > about $2? > That's what I did and it was self-adhesive, so I just stuck it > onto the > bullet mirror glass and it was just about a perfect fit. > > > In a message dated 1/23/2008 1:44:41 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, > lindquistse at gmail.com writes: > > I am in the process of trying to convert a Ford Explorer > passenger mirror > into a RHS convex mirror for my TR250. The TR250 has a > trapezoidal shaped > mirror. Any thoughts as to the chances of getting this cut vs a > circularconvex mirror? Better or worse than curtting a 5" > circle into 4" circle? > I am obviously soliciting opinion here, but I was hoping that > the flatter > straigbnt edges might give me a better shot at it. Timely note > on this > list, I might add. I was going to try the local specialty glass > shop. > Steve > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as timbo00001 at aol.com > > > > > > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in > shape. > http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From rgrothstein at yahoo.com Thu Jan 24 10:16:50 2008 From: rgrothstein at yahoo.com (Bob Rothstein) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 09:16:50 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR-250 Mirror Message-ID: <996477.17739.qm@web34315.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Steve - save yourself some aggravation. Go to an auto glass shop with a tracing of your mirror and have them cut out a convex mirror for it - and yes, they'll probably start with a convex for a larger mirror frame. Then cover the entire back side of the convex with racer's tape, and then put double-sided tape all around the inside edge of the tape-covered convex and press it onto the flat glass. I've done this not only for my TR-250, but for all my cars. They've stuck on for years. Particularly on the daily drivers, what you give up in heated-mirror capacity is vastly outweighed by your improved field of vision. None of those wimpy 3" round convex mirrors for me!! Bob Rothstein TR-250 Vienna, VA ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 24 10:14:20 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 11:14:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] brake fuild References: <012420081355.28540.479898D5000AB96400006F7C2213539653970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <001e01c85eac$91cfa6f0$800101df@garage.local> silicone in brake and clutch on the tr6 for 7 years, silicone in the clutch on the mg for 2 years, silicone in the brakes on the 88 camaro for 2 years. silicone in the clutch and brakes on the 67 datsun for 6 mos no problems. From trsix74 at comcast.net Thu Jan 24 15:59:20 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:59:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rear View Mirrors In-Reply-To: <479DB324@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <479DB324@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <000301c85edc$c2e458a0$6601a8c0@Robert> Shawn writes: Not to be overly critical of your point, but I believe it was "The Gumball Rally" and it was Raul Julia playing an Italian racing driver who stated that it was the first rule of Italian driving. The car that the rear view mirror was so eloquently discarded from was a Ferrari 365 GTB Spyder. On with the other discussion now... Please? You are absolutely right! Oh my, has it been that long ago that I saw the movie at the TRF Summer Party? I just remember there was 700 triumph viewers at the drive in after the buffet dinner and beer. And then we saw a movie about a bunch of guys running on the beach in what looked like their underwear! (Chariots of Fire). I guess Charlie Runyon thought it was a car movie! Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From 6parts at charter.net Thu Jan 24 18:10:31 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:10:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 Message-ID: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> I am just finishing swaping overdrive transmissions and motors I am swaping a OD tran from a 74 into a 76. There seems to be an extra wire on the 74 thats not on my 76. They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a green. They 74 has an extra green that I am not sure where it would go . Tomorrow, I'll be topping the motor with oil and anti freeze and firing it up and putting the hood back on. This will be 6 years of using the purple brake and clutch stuff. I've replaced the brake master cylinder in that time, but it was of unknown age. I chalk it up to being due to old age and not because of fluid change. I have also replaced other brake parts for piece of mind because of unknown condition and the fact that its a daily driver and I hate being stranded. Cheers. Al From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Thu Jan 24 18:29:27 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 17:29:27 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 In-Reply-To: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <107153.94981.qm@web43133.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Oh great master of the bling... Figure one is gonna be for the reverse & 1 for the top cover switch & 1 for power...consult the book of armaments...er I mean, the Bentley Manual Toad --- Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > I am just finishing swaping overdrive transmissions > and motors > > I am swaping a OD tran from a 74 into a 76. > > There seems to be an extra wire on the 74 thats not > on my 76. > > They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a > green. They 74 has an extra > green that I am not sure where it would > go . > > Tomorrow, I'll be topping the motor with oil and > anti freeze and firing it up > and putting the hood back on. > > This will be 6 years of using the purple brake and > clutch stuff. I've > replaced the brake master cylinder in that time, > but it was of unknown age. I chalk it up to being > due to old age and not > because of fluid change. > I have also replaced other brake parts for piece of > mind because of unknown > condition and the fact that its a daily driver > and I hate being stranded. > > Cheers. > > Al > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping From 6parts at charter.net Thu Jan 24 18:35:38 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 20:35:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 References: <107153.94981.qm@web43133.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <00b001c85ef2$97712390$03d30c47@alan> Oh, Scoffer Upper of all things Triumph, I have consulted the Grand Triumph Book of Wisdom and I haven't come up with this wire. I will continue to research. Cheers, Al www.triumphowners.com/624 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bermudez" To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net>; ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, January 24, 2008 8:29 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 > Oh great master of the bling... > > Figure one is gonna be for the reverse & 1 for the top > cover switch & 1 for power...consult the book of > armaments...er I mean, the Bentley Manual > > Toad > > > --- Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > >> I am just finishing swaping overdrive transmissions >> and motors >> >> I am swaping a OD tran from a 74 into a 76. >> >> There seems to be an extra wire on the 74 thats not >> on my 76. >> >> They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a >> green. They 74 has an extra >> green that I am not sure where it would >> go . >> >> Tomorrow, I'll be topping the motor with oil and >> anti freeze and firing it up >> and putting the hood back on. >> >> This will be 6 years of using the purple brake and >> clutch stuff. I've >> replaced the brake master cylinder in that time, >> but it was of unknown age. I chalk it up to being >> due to old age and not >> because of fluid change. >> I have also replaced other brake parts for piece of >> mind because of unknown >> condition and the fact that its a daily driver >> and I hate being stranded. >> >> Cheers. >> >> Al From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 24 19:26:21 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 21:26:21 EST Subject: [6pack] brake fuild Message-ID: Someone suggested at my club meeting tonight that the "problem", if there is one, might not be between silicone fluid and British rubber, but between silicone fluid and Chinese rubber. They have a good point. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music. (http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025 48) From johncnorth at gmail.com Thu Jan 24 19:54:33 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 21:54:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Overdrive Transmission TR6 In-Reply-To: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> References: <009f01c85eef$15012390$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <49f668fe0801241854i29e30b0aucef6b5b2743eed8c@mail.gmail.com> I also put a 74 trannie in a 76. I left the switch on the right side (looking from the rear) with no wiring - this is the seatbelt interlock which was a pain in the you know what in the 74. The reverse switch is on the left. There are three wires from the trannie that connect into the rest of the electrics. Green from reverse switch goes to four way block with two green wires from the harness Green/Brown - from reverse switch goes to the single green/brown connector Yellow/Green from OD cutout switch goes to the Y/G wire from the OD switch on the column The other wire from the OD column switch, which is Light Green goes to the other green connector in the four way block. I uploaded a couple pictures here: http://picasaweb.google.com/johncnorth/GearboxElectrics Hope this helps John North On Jan 24, 2008 8:10 PM, Alan Salvatore <6parts at charter.net> wrote: > I am just finishing swaping overdrive transmissions and motors > > I am swaping a OD tran from a 74 into a 76. > > There seems to be an extra wire on the 74 thats not on my 76. > > They both have a green/yellow & green/red & a green. They 74 has an extra > green that I am not sure where it would > go . > > Tomorrow, I'll be topping the motor with oil and anti freeze and firing it up > and putting the hood back on. > > This will be 6 years of using the purple brake and clutch stuff. I've > replaced the brake master cylinder in that time, > but it was of unknown age. I chalk it up to being due to old age and not > because of fluid change. > I have also replaced other brake parts for piece of mind because of unknown > condition and the fact that its a daily driver > and I hate being stranded. > > Cheers. > > Al > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jan 25 00:31:45 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 24 Jan 2008 23:31:45 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: RE: TR6 door mirrors Message-ID: <3592-47999061-1502@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Stan and List---I promise that this is the last one that I'll initiate on this subject. I did say a few days ago that I was pursuing the challenge, and my recount of this will be brief. I now have a convex mirror cut to size (2.320 diam) on the passenger side. It took waaay too long (to modify a rectangular mirror to fit), but it can be done. It looks good and works, umm, OK. It is not "stuck on", but fits behind the circlip like the original. Dick Date: Sun, Jan 20, 2008, 12:49pm To: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors OK. Now you've done it. You've forced me to make a lathe set up with some kind of mirror and circle cut/scribe it with some carbide device! I'll let you know if I'm successful. (I am currently using the stick-on with the original mirror blacked out, so as not to look like what it is! Dick E-mail message From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Hi Dick, I and others have tried to get convex mirrors cut to size with zero success. The glass shops just break mirror after mirror in the attempt and then give up.... Stan ______________________________________ X-WebTV-Signature: 1 ETAtAhRhkOMQ0NyfNaaCqOmP44Ih3Y1R9gIVAIOVn/LO9Ei1NmiYIpRXmlUoiUBq From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2008 12:49:55 -0800 To: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Subject: RE: [6pack] TR6 door mirrors Message-ID: <14147-4793B3F3-1847 at storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Sat, 19 Jan 2008 23:33:37 +0000 Content-Disposition: Inline Content-Type: Text/Plain; Charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: Quoted-Printable MIME-Version: 1.0 (WebTV) OK. Now you've done it. You've forced me to make a lathe set up with some kind of mirror and circle cut/scribe it with some carbide device! I'll let you know if I'm successful. (I am currently using the stick-on with the original mirror blacked out, so as not to look like what it is! Dick E-mail message From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Hi Dick, I and others have tried to get convex mirrors cut to size with zero success. The glass shops just break mirror after mirror in the attempt and then give up.... Stan ______________________________________ From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Fri Jan 25 06:50:38 2008 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 08:50:38 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Floating ground Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04281@USCANCISNT05> Re: [6pack] Proper grounding My understanding it that the battery should be grounded at the bell housing but also to the firewall via a bolt that is on the firewall just behind the accelerator pedal shaft. Looks like it should be a braided cable with a metal clamp on the cable partway between the battery and the bell housing. The firewall bolt goes through the clamp and into the firewall. I plan on taking extra care to ensure there is no dirt or paint between the clamp and firewall. I've heard someone say the path is battery to bell housing back up to the firewall. Doesn't seems as logical but that no indicator of how it would have been originally engineered. Darcy Just an update on obtaining the proper TR6 ground Received part #T56 from TRF and it looks good. It is a bare braided 22" long. 14 inches from the terminal connector is a metal connector that is clamped around the braided cable which is where you would bolt through to attach to the firewall before going on to the engine. I was at Brits Bits earlier this week and saw 2 TR6s, one had the correct cable, the other was missing the correct cable and incorrectly grounded like mine. I suspect there will be an issue with dirt getting imbedded in the cable but I do plan on spraying on some type of anti-corrosive. Cable cost about $27. Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 North Easton, MA From sakirsis at consolidated.net Fri Jan 25 07:54:34 2008 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 08:54:34 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Floating ground References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04281@USCANCISNT05> Message-ID: <000a01c85f62$3305a1e0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> This is a subject that was bounced around quite a bit just a litle while ago. After listening to many variations of how the negative attaches it was Vance who I think has the right order. I experimented with all the "right way to do it" suggestions and came to the conclusion that, using the cable supplied by both Moss and TRF, the first stop is the lifting eye bolt and then the cable ends at the firewall. The fasteners are attached to the cable so that in this series there is no twisting of the cable and the fastners lie naturally on both the block and firewall and no excess cable between any connection. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. Thanks Vance (I think) ----- Original Message ----- From: "Hunter, Darcy" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 7:50 AM Subject: [6pack] Floating ground > Re: [6pack] Proper grounding > > My understanding it that the battery should be grounded at the bell > housing but also to the firewall via a bolt that is on the firewall just > behind the accelerator pedal shaft. Looks like it should be a braided > cable with a metal clamp on the cable partway between the battery and the > bell housing. > The firewall bolt goes through the clamp and into the firewall. I plan on > taking extra care to ensure there is no dirt or paint between the clamp > and firewall. I've heard someone say the path is battery to bell housing > back up to the firewall. Doesn't seems as logical but that no indicator of > how it > would have been originally engineered. > > Darcy > > > > Just an update on obtaining the proper TR6 ground > > Received part #T56 from TRF and it looks good. It is a bare braided 22" > long. 14 inches from the terminal connector is a metal connector that is > clamped around the braided cable which is where you would bolt through to > attach to the firewall before going on to the engine. I was at Brits Bits > earlier this week and saw 2 TR6s, one had the correct cable, the other was > missing the correct cable and incorrectly grounded like mine. I suspect > there will be an issue with dirt getting imbedded in the cable but I do > plan on spraying on some type of anti-corrosive. Cable cost about $27. > > > > Darcy Hunter > > '73 TR6 > > North Easton, MA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as sakirsis at consolidated.net From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Jan 25 08:13:16 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 15:13:16 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: RE: TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <3592-47999061-1502@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> References: <3592-47999061-1502@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D8D75@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Dick, is this something that most of us could reproduce at home and do I understand you correctly that you have a 2.32 inch diameter mirror ?. That seems rather small to be effective.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or Dick Taylor Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 2:32 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Fwd: RE: TR6 door mirrors Stan and List---I promise that this is the last one that I'll initiate on this subject. I did say a few days ago that I was pursuing the challenge, and my recount of this will be brief. I now have a convex mirror cut to size (2.320 diam) on the passenger side. It took waaay too long (to modify a rectangular mirror to fit), but it can be done. It looks good and works, umm, OK. It is not "stuck on", but fits behind the circlip like the original. Dick From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 25 08:16:26 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 10:16:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Fwd: RE: TR6 door mirrors In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D8D75@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <3592-47999061-1502@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D8D75@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: On Fri, 25 Jan 2008, Foster, Stan wrote: > Dick, is this something that most of us could reproduce at home and do I > understand you correctly that you have a 2.32 inch diameter mirror ?. That > seems rather small to be effective.. It's secret project that Dick is working on... a 500 HP TR6 that gets 60 MPG. :-) the CoDrag is .28. > Stan rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From sakirsis at consolidated.net Fri Jan 25 09:14:42 2008 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 10:14:42 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Floating ground References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04281@USCANCISNT05> <000a01c85f62$3305a1e0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: <000801c85f6d$653698d0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> Dave, start with attaching the cable to the battery post. The "near-midpoint connection tab" then is attached to the lower (or upper) eye bolt, lastly the end connection tab is attached to the fire wall. The bell housing is not used as a grounding point. Steve Kirsis ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Steve Kirsis" Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 9:48 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Floating ground > Steve; > > Darcy's posting seemed clear enough -- a battery cable (P/N T56???) > that has a near-midpoint connection tab for inclusion of the chassis to > be grounded at the firewall, as the cable proceeds to ground from the > negative battery post. Your statements do not include a mention of the > battery at all, rather merely the lifting bolt and the firewall. The > confusion (perhaps only on my part), continues because the ALL of the > specific attachment points don't get mentioned in one e-mail(for > example, Darcy already has three attachment points specified for his > new cable. You (and Vance) have 'added' the lifting eye bolt). Is the > lifting eye a fourth connection point? > > Dave Friedlander > '74-Six > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Steve Kirsis > Date: Friday, January 25, 2008 9:55 am > Subject: Re: [6pack] Floating ground > To: "Hunter, Darcy" > Cc: '6pack' <6pack at autox.team.net> > >> This is a subject that was bounced around quite a bit just a litle >> while >> ago. After listening to many variations of how the negative >> attaches it was >> Vance who I think has the right order. I experimented with all the >> "right >> way to do it" suggestions and came to the conclusion that, using >> the cable >> supplied by both Moss and TRF, the first stop is the lifting eye >> bolt and >> then the cable ends at the firewall. The fasteners are attached to >> the cable >> so that in this series there is no twisting of the cable and the >> fastners >> lie naturally on both the block and firewall and no excess cable >> between any >> connection. Steve Kirsis '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. Thanks Vance (I >> think)----- Original Message ----- > > >> > Just an update on obtaining the proper TR6 ground >> > >> > Received part #T56 from TRF and it looks good. It is a bare >> braided 22" >> > long. 14 inches from the terminal connector is a metal >> connector that is >> > clamped around the braided cable which is where you would bolt >> through to >> > attach to the firewall before going on to the engine. I was at >> Brits Bits >> > earlier this week and saw 2 TR6s, one had the correct cable, the >> other was >> > missing the correct cable and incorrectly grounded like mine. I >> suspect >> > there will be an issue with dirt getting imbedded in the cable >> but I do >> > plan on spraying on some type of anti-corrosive. Cable cost >> about $27. >> > >> > >> > >> > Darcy Hunter From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 25 09:23:53 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 11:23:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Floating ground In-Reply-To: <000801c85f6d$653698d0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04281@USCANCISNT05> <000a01c85f62$3305a1e0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> <000801c85f6d$653698d0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: On Fri, 25 Jan 2008, Steve Kirsis wrote: > Dave, start with attaching the cable to the battery post. The "near-midpoint > connection tab" then is attached to the lower (or upper) eye bolt, lastly > the end connection tab is attached to the fire wall. The bell housing is not > used as a grounding point. Steve Kirsis Interesting. My car's been grounded incorrectly since it left the factory. Mine goes battery, firewall and then to the rear engine plate (at the 10:30-ish location). I'll have to fix that. :-) Seriously, this is one of those little details that can cause fits for the concours folks. Look in the literature for a picture to show which is correct. Any underhood shots should give a hint at the proper method. I'm not kidding that my car from new goes battery, bulkhead - rear engine plate. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From john.zimmerman at dpg.com Fri Jan 25 09:24:30 2008 From: john.zimmerman at dpg.com (Zimmerman, John) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 11:24:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Reverse lamps Message-ID: <1198AF794DB13D4591672B50B6621A22757FF6@stvexch1.vandorn.dpg.com> I was reading the thread regarding the reverse lamps wiring with great interest. I have a non-od transmission. Now I know which connector to use so I have reverse lights. My question is, where can I get a harness for the reverse switch? I don't see any listed as available in the catalogs. As soon as I get that, I can start getting the interior buttoned up Thank you, John Zimmerman Traffic Supervisor Demag Plastics Group 11792 Alameda Drive Strongsville, Ohio 44149-3011 Phone: (440).876.6251 Fax: (440) 876.6428 email: john.zimmerman at dpg.com This message was scanned for viruses by BitDefender. For more information please visit our web site http://www.bitdefender.com/ From sakirsis at consolidated.net Fri Jan 25 09:34:11 2008 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 10:34:11 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Floating ground References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04281@USCANCISNT05> <000a01c85f62$3305a1e0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> <000801c85f6d$653698d0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: <000601c85f70$1e004850$6801a8c0@MomandDad> Bob, That gives me reason to doubt myself but after doing it the way described in previous messages and every other way this did fit the best. I have friends in the UK with PI, let me look at theirs when I'm over there next. The accelerator shaft may have something to do with it. Steve Kirsis. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Lang" To: "Steve Kirsis" Cc: ; "'6pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 10:23 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Floating ground > On Fri, 25 Jan 2008, Steve Kirsis wrote: > >> Dave, start with attaching the cable to the battery post. The >> "near-midpoint >> connection tab" then is attached to the lower (or upper) eye bolt, lastly >> the end connection tab is attached to the fire wall. The bell housing is >> not >> used as a grounding point. Steve Kirsis > > Interesting. My car's been grounded incorrectly since it left the factory. > Mine goes battery, firewall and then to the rear engine plate (at the > 10:30-ish location). > > I'll have to fix that. > > :-) > > Seriously, this is one of those little details that can cause fits for the > concours folks. Look in the literature for a picture to show which is > correct. Any underhood shots should give a hint at the proper method. > > I'm not kidding that my car from new goes battery, bulkhead - rear engine > plate. > > rml > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- > Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent > Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! > Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Jan 25 09:41:20 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 11:41:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Floating ground In-Reply-To: <000601c85f70$1e004850$6801a8c0@MomandDad> References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04281@USCANCISNT05> <000a01c85f62$3305a1e0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> <000801c85f6d$653698d0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> <000601c85f70$1e004850$6801a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: On Fri, 25 Jan 2008, Steve Kirsis wrote: > Bob, That gives me reason to doubt myself but after doing it the way > described in previous messages and every other way this did fit the best. I > have friends in the UK with PI, let me look at theirs when I'm over there > next. The accelerator shaft may have something to do with it. Steve Kirsis. This one does come up from time-to-time... might be time for "the definitive article on tr6 battery cably placement" or something like that. I do recall that the acellerator shaft was part of the equation. Of course, for a while you could only get the basic black shielded cable (universal fit) and I'm sure that never contributed to the stellar "Lucas reputation". rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From k6na at cts.com Fri Jan 25 10:56:03 2008 From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 09:56:03 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Floating ground In-Reply-To: References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B74809C04281@USCANCISNT05> <000a01c85f62$3305a1e0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> <000801c85f6d$653698d0$6801a8c0@MomandDad> Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20080125094835.05b2ede0@cts.com> At 08:23 AM 1/25/2008, Bob wrote (snipped): >Mine goes battery, firewall and then to the rear engine plate (at the >10:30-ish location). > >I'm not kidding that my car from new goes battery, bulkhead - rear engine >plate. > >rml On CF29457UO, a 74.5 built in Dec. 74, which I have owned since new, the original cable is exactly as Bob describes. The bottom tab-- the one to the engine plate-- rests under a hex nut on the "radiator-side" of the flange. The cable is bare, tinned copper braid. Glenn/San Diego 6's From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jan 25 14:02:55 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 13:02:55 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: RE: TR6 door mirrors, 2 In-Reply-To: Robert Lang 's message of Fri, 25 Jan 2008 10:16:26 -0500 (EST) Message-ID: <715-479A4E7F-1692@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> My apologies to the list for making a dumb typo on the size. It should've read 4.320 not 2.320. Yes, it can be reproduced at home, with patience and the right equipment. I may write this somewhat long proceedure up as a Newsletter article, should Todd want it. I did promise to not dwell on this on the list, so I will respond to off-list questions and answers for those interested enough to try it. Meanwhile...The "secret" project is stalled at 200 HP +/-, unless TRICK gas is used. (At $7.00 per gal.) CD is around .35, and mileage at 26 (HVDA), with a tail wind! Dick From: lang at isis.mit.edu(Robert Lang) Date: RE: TR6 door mirrors On Fri, 25 Jan 2008, Foster, Stan wrote: Dick, is this something that most of us could reproduce at home and do I understand you correctly that you have a 2.32 inch diameter mirror ?. That seems rather small to be effective.. It's secret project that Dick is working on... a 500 HP TR6 that gets 60 MPG. :-) the CoDrag is .28. Stan rml ---------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 ---------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Jan 25 14:19:41 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 13:19:41 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Floating ground In-Reply-To: "Hunter, Darcy" 's message of Fri, 25 Jan 2008 08:50:38 -0500 Message-ID: <715-479A526D-1706@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> In theory, it shouldn't make any difference if one of the ground strap stops is connected to the bellhousing or the engine. After all, they're bolted together. In practice, tho, the bellhousing connection can get insulated with paint or debris, and limit the grounding. I use the shieled cable, but found I needed to make another connection between the engine and body to get the voltmeter reading correct, when accessories were on. A tip here is to turn on your car radio. Stand on the ground and touch the antenna. If the volume increases, your ground isn't as good as it could be. That was one of the clues for me. Dick m.net From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com(Hunter, Darcy) My understanding it that the battery should be grounded at the bell housing but also to the firewall via a bolt that is on the firewall just behind the accelerator pedal shaft. Looks like it should be a braided cable with a metal clamp on the cable partway between the battery and the bell housing. The firewall bolt goes through the clamp and into the firewall. I plan on taking extra care to ensure there is no dirt or paint between the clamp and firewall. I've heard someone say the path is battery to bell housing back up to the firewall. Doesn't seems as logical but that no indicator of how it would have been originally engineered. Darcy Just an update on obtaining the proper TR6 ground Received part #T56 from TRF and it looks good. It is a bare braided 22" long. 14 inches from the terminal connector is a metal connector that is clamped around the braided cable which is where you would bolt through to attach to the firewall before going on to the engine. I was at Brits Bits earlier this week and saw 2 TR6s, one had the correct cable, the other was missing the correct cable and incorrectly grounded like mine. I suspect there will be an issue with dirt getting imbedded in the cable but I do plan on spraying on some type of anti-corrosive. Cable cost about $27. Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 North Easton, MA From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Fri Jan 25 15:35:31 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 14:35:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire Message-ID: <956984.94431.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The setup on my 1970 TR6 is identical to Glenn's and Bob Lang's cars. Bare silver ground wire to a bolt in the firewall (between throttle linkageand firewall), then on to 2nd bolt on the front side of the rear engine plate/bell housing. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI PS: Wish me luck, I just bought another 6, this one is a 1971. --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From acekraut11 at aol.com Fri Jan 25 19:02:23 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Jan 2008 21:02:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror Message-ID: <8CA2DD6A050F18D-C28-4834@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> Hi List, I will keep this short.? I asked my friend who works at a local glass shop if he could come up with a 4" convex mirror and in about 1.5 hours he stopped by and dropped one off on my desk.? He sourced a mirror that was larger than necessary and cut it with a circle cutter.? He told me that he cut it on cardboard and that was the secret to cutting it without it breaking.? If anyone is having trouble finding such a mirror for their car and is interested in buying one the cost would be $25 plus shipping.? That reflects the cost of the mirror that he has to cut from.? I suspect that if you needed a mirror in a slightly different diameter he could probably cut it your specifications.? NFI, he is just a really nice guy trying to help out the Triumph community at my request. If you are interested please contact me off list and I will give you the information on how to get in touch with him.? Sorry to initiate another post on this topic but I thought it might interest someone. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Jan 25 21:04:21 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 04:04:21 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror In-Reply-To: <8CA2DD6A050F18D-C28-4834@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA2DD6A050F18D-C28-4834@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D8E81@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Thanks everyone for following up. I didn't personally feel that we had flogged this to death until we had some sort of satisfactory conclusion so to summarize: 1. You can buy said convex mirror as part of a pair (Talbot) for around $300, alu or chromed brass and very nice they look too. http://www.talbotco.com/talbot_mirror.htm 2. There is evidence that a stained glass shop may be able to grind a mirror to size 3. Dick says he has managed to produce a convex mirror of the right size at home (would like to hear more about that) 4. Aaron has researched a friend that will cut a convex mirror to size for $25.00 plus shipping. I think that is a pretty good list of four viable options to this common problem. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of acekraut11 at aol.com Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 9:02 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror Hi List, I will keep this short.? I asked my friend who works at a local glass shop if he could come up with a 4" convex mirror and in about 1.5 hours he stopped by and dropped one off on my desk.? He sourced a mirror that was larger than necessary and cut it with a circle cutter.? He told me that he cut it on cardboard and that was the secret to cutting it without it breaking.? If anyone is having trouble finding such a mirror for their car and is interested in buying one the cost would be $25 plus shipping.? That reflects the cost of the mirror that he has to cut from.? I suspect that if you needed a mirror in a slightly different diameter he could probably cut it your specifications.? NFI, he is just a really nice guy trying to help out the Triumph community at my request. If you are interested please contact me off list and I will give you the information on how to get in touch with him.? Sorry to initiate another post on this topic but I thought it might interest someone. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 26 09:28:01 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 10:28:01 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror References: <8CA2DD6A050F18D-C28-4834@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D8E81@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <001701c86038$6c89bba0$800101df@garage.local> wait! not flogged quite to death. i'm gonna ask this question, and i'll admit to being naiive, so please don't flame me. with as limited as visibility can be, especially with the top up, other than the fact that you have to compensate for the distorted distance appearance, is it a stupid idea to think that one might put this convex mirror on the driver side? has anyone experimented with this? is this a terrible idea? does it have any merit? what am i missing? thaks. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 10:04 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror > Thanks everyone for following up. I didn't personally feel that we had > flogged > this to death until we had some sort of satisfactory conclusion so to > summarize: > > 1. You can buy said convex mirror as part of a pair (Talbot) for around > $300, > alu or chromed brass and very nice they look too. > http://www.talbotco.com/talbot_mirror.htm > > 2. There is evidence that a stained glass shop may be able to grind a > mirror > to size > > 3. Dick says he has managed to produce a convex mirror of the right size > at > home (would like to hear more about that) > > 4. Aaron has researched a friend that will cut a convex mirror to size for > $25.00 plus shipping. > > I think that is a pretty good list of four viable options to this common > problem. From lfm614 at aol.com Sat Jan 26 09:57:20 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:57:20 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror In-Reply-To: <001701c86038$6c89bba0$800101df@garage.local> References: <8CA2DD6A050F18D-C28-4834@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D8E81@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><001701c86038$6c89bba0$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <107502083-1201366787-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1495290806-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Oliver, I have 3 3/4" stick-on convex on my pass side 4" bullet, cost <$3. The reason I did this is I couldn't get enough adjustment out of the mirror to cover the blind side closest to and behind the car specially with the top up. It works great, the 1/8" "gap" doesn't bother me enough to go to the extents described here for a non stick-on solution. IMHO, If you have a different mirror or mount point and can aim it where you want it, then I would see no reason to add the convex. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Oliver" Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 10:28:01 To:<6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror wait! not flogged quite to death. i'm gonna ask this question, and i'll admit to being naiive, so please don't flame me. with as limited as visibility can be, especially with the top up, other than the fact that you have to compensate for the distorted distance appearance, is it a stupid idea to think that one might put this convex mirror on the driver side? has anyone experimented with this? is this a terrible idea? does it have any merit? what am i missing? thaks. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 10:04 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror > Thanks everyone for following up. I didn't personally feel that we had > flogged > this to death until we had some sort of satisfactory conclusion so to > summarize: > > 1. You can buy said convex mirror as part of a pair (Talbot) for around > $300, > alu or chromed brass and very nice they look too. > http://www.talbotco.com/talbot_mirror.htm > > 2. There is evidence that a stained glass shop may be able to grind a > mirror > to size > > 3. Dick says he has managed to produce a convex mirror of the right size > at > home (would like to hear more about that) > > 4. Aaron has researched a friend that will cut a convex mirror to size for > $25.00 plus shipping. > > I think that is a pretty good list of four viable options to this common > problem. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sat Jan 26 10:59:15 2008 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jimhearn1 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 17:59:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror Message-ID: <012620081759.29513.479B74F300004EAB000073492200762302CE029D0E0A08030706@comcast.net> I am contemplating putting a convex lens on the bullet mirror located on the driver's side door of my TR6. It is one of those mirrors with six adjustments available and none of the adjustments are adequate. I would rather know that something is coming and then look than to have something that I can't trust. Jim in Sacramento -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Oliver" > wait! not flogged quite to death. > > i'm gonna ask this question, and i'll admit to being naiive, so please don't > flame me. > > with as limited as visibility can be, especially with the top up, other than > the fact that you have to compensate for the distorted distance appearance, > is it a stupid idea to think that one might put this convex mirror on the > driver side? has anyone experimented with this? is this a terrible idea? > does it have any merit? what am i missing? > > thaks. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Foster, Stan" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 10:04 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror > > > > Thanks everyone for following up. I didn't personally feel that we had > > flogged > > this to death until we had some sort of satisfactory conclusion so to > > summarize: > > > > 1. You can buy said convex mirror as part of a pair (Talbot) for around > > $300, > > alu or chromed brass and very nice they look too. > > http://www.talbotco.com/talbot_mirror.htm > > > > 2. There is evidence that a stained glass shop may be able to grind a > > mirror > > to size > > > > 3. Dick says he has managed to produce a convex mirror of the right size > > at > > home (would like to hear more about that) > > > > 4. Aaron has researched a friend that will cut a convex mirror to size for > > $25.00 plus shipping. > > > > I think that is a pretty good list of four viable options to this common > > problem. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Jan 26 14:30:57 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 13:30:57 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror, driver door? References: <8CA2DD6A050F18D-C28-4834@WEBMAIL-DC01.sysops.aol.com> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D8E81@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <001701c86038$6c89bba0$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <000801c86062$bd215940$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Oliver, My 6 came with a convex mirror from a PO on the drivers side. I drove the car for awhile but could not get used to it. It shows too much area and no detail. I put new 4" on drivers side and moved convex to passenger door. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Oliver" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 8:28 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror > wait! not flogged quite to death. > > i'm gonna ask this question, and i'll admit to being naiive, so please don't > flame me. > > with as limited as visibility can be, especially with the top up, other than > the fact that you have to compensate for the distorted distance appearance, > is it a stupid idea to think that one might put this convex mirror on the > driver side? has anyone experimented with this? is this a terrible idea? > does it have any merit? what am i missing? > > thaks. > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Foster, Stan" > To: <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Friday, January 25, 2008 10:04 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Source for 4" Convex Mirror > > > > Thanks everyone for following up. I didn't personally feel that we had > > flogged > > this to death until we had some sort of satisfactory conclusion so to > > summarize: > > > > 1. You can buy said convex mirror as part of a pair (Talbot) for around > > $300, > > alu or chromed brass and very nice they look too. > > http://www.talbotco.com/talbot_mirror.htm > > > > 2. There is evidence that a stained glass shop may be able to grind a > > mirror > > to size > > > > 3. Dick says he has managed to produce a convex mirror of the right size > > at > > home (would like to hear more about that) > > > > 4. Aaron has researched a friend that will cut a convex mirror to size for > > $25.00 plus shipping. > > > > I think that is a pretty good list of four viable options to this common > > problem. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Jan 26 13:38:52 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 15:38:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR4 Engine/Gearbox for sale: NFI Message-ID: <005301c8605b$7683f8f0$670fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> I was offered a Triumph TR4 engine and gearbox recently by a non-technical (both auto and internet) acquaintance. I cannot justify buying the engine and gearbox (I know the trans will fit the TR6) and it needs to go to a good (aka TR4) home. It is located off I-23 just south of Arbor, Michigan. It cannot be shipped, and the pick up will require some muscle ... it is the middle of a dry but very full garden shed! The engine appears complete less the carbs. It has a chrome rocker cover, and the sump doesn't appear dented. It looked OK without any signs of damage or water leaks. It did have the patina of a Triumph engine that has leaked oil in normal quantities, that has acted as a preservative during its time in dry storage. It has the dist. and, I think, generator and starter. The gearbox is a non-OD unit, and appears clean and complete with gear lever and rear mount. Engine and gearbox are still assembled. Beyond the above, I cannot tell you anything more, and nor can the current owner .. it was purchased by a long departed boyfriend and his TR4, and she is moving house and wants it gone. If this is of any interest, please relay messages, approx. price you'd be willing to pay and contact info., etc to me off the list so I can pass it on. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Jan 26 15:12:41 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 16:12:41 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Three carb heat shield References: <715-479A4E7F-1692@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <000201c86068$92cc31a0$800101df@garage.local> OK. I know, progress has been slow. but - the first prototype is here, and ready to put on the engine, which, oh by the way, is ready to be put in the car. so, here are pictures of the shield with the carbs. soon, i know, soon, the carbs, heat shield, engine, car, etc, etc., will all be united!!!!! very soon, i promise! www.ranteer.com/heatshield From forzion at maine.rr.com Sat Jan 26 18:26:29 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 20:26:29 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire In-Reply-To: <956984.94431.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <956984.94431.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <479BDDC5.1000903@maine.rr.com> All you guys with your neg cable with a "clamp" at the firewall, is that clamp something you purchase separately. Seems like TRF ought to sell them that way .... The one I bought from TRF is bare and braided but no midpoint clamp for the firewall connection... Dave '74-Six michael lunsford wrote: >The setup on my 1970 TR6 is identical to Glenn's and Bob Lang's cars. Bare silver ground wire to a bolt in the firewall (between throttle linkageand firewall), then on to 2nd bolt on the front side of the rear engine plate/bell housing. > > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI > > PS: Wish me luck, I just bought another 6, this one is a 1971. > > >--------------------------------- >Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sat Jan 26 18:45:22 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 17:45:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire In-Reply-To: <479BDDC5.1000903@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <873057.5276.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The clamp came as part of the cable. Mike Lunsford David Friedlander wrote: All you guys with your neg cable with a "clamp" at the firewall, is that clamp something you purchase separately. Seems like TRF ought to sell them that way .... The one I bought from TRF is bare and braided but no midpoint clamp for the firewall connection... Dave '74-Six michael lunsford wrote: >The setup on my 1970 TR6 is identical to Glenn's and Bob Lang's cars. Bare silver ground wire to a bolt in the firewall (between throttle linkageand firewall), then on to 2nd bolt on the front side of the rear engine plate/bell housing. > > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI > > PS: Wish me luck, I just bought another 6, this one is a 1971. > > >--------------------------------- >Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > > > > --------------------------------- Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. From johncnorth at gmail.com Sat Jan 26 18:53:18 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 20:53:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire In-Reply-To: <479BDDC5.1000903@maine.rr.com> References: <956984.94431.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <479BDDC5.1000903@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <49f668fe0801261753u5797bee2g2936a0c8904fff12@mail.gmail.com> These are two separate cables, one from the battery to the motor mount, the other from the motor mount to the body (at least on mine...) John North On Jan 26, 2008 8:26 PM, David Friedlander wrote: > All you guys with your neg cable with a "clamp" at the firewall, is that > clamp > something you purchase separately. Seems like TRF ought to sell them that > way .... The one I bought from TRF is bare and braided but no midpoint > clamp > for the firewall connection... > > Dave > '74-Six > > > michael lunsford wrote: > > >The setup on my 1970 TR6 is identical to Glenn's and Bob Lang's cars. Bare silver ground wire to a bolt in the firewall (between throttle linkageand firewall), then on to 2nd bolt on the front side of the rear engine plate/bell housing. > > > > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI > > > > PS: Wish me luck, I just bought another 6, this one is a 1971. > > > > > >--------------------------------- > >Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > >6pack at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > >http://www.team.net/archive > > > >You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as johncnorth at gmail.com From forzion at maine.rr.com Sat Jan 26 18:58:02 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 26 Jan 2008 20:58:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire In-Reply-To: <873057.5276.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <873057.5276.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <479BE52A.90202@maine.rr.com> If that's true, Mike, does TRF have their pictures or descriptions for their 516508 and 516509 reversed here? http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/161.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 I assume the description is correct for their P/N 516508. But the midpoint clamp is only shown on the 516509.... Dave '74-Six michael lunsford wrote: > The clamp came as part of the cable. > > Mike Lunsford > > David Friedlander wrote: > > All you guys with your neg cable with a "clamp" at the firewall, > is that > clamp > something you purchase separately. Seems like TRF ought to sell > them that > way .... The one I bought from TRF is bare and braided but no > midpoint > clamp > for the firewall connection... > > Dave > '74-Six > > > michael lunsford wrote: > > >The setup on my 1970 TR6 is identical to Glenn's and Bob Lang's > cars. Bare silver ground wire to a bolt in the firewall (between > throttle linkageand firewall), then on to 2nd bolt on the front > side of the rear engine plate/bell housing. > > > > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI > > > > PS: Wish me luck, I just bought another 6, this one is a 1971. > > > > > From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Jan 27 09:29:35 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 08:29:35 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire References: <956984.94431.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <479BDDC5.1000903@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <002101c86101$ce504dd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Rimmer Bros Parts page seems to show ground battery cable with the center firewall lug. Picture is not that clear though. Bob http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/tr6/images/124a.gif ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Friedlander" To: "michael lunsford" Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 5:26 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire > All you guys with your neg cable with a "clamp" at the firewall, is that > clamp > something you purchase separately. Seems like TRF ought to sell them that > way .... The one I bought from TRF is bare and braided but no midpoint > clamp > for the firewall connection... > > Dave > '74-Six > > > michael lunsford wrote: > > >The setup on my 1970 TR6 is identical to Glenn's and Bob Lang's cars. Bare silver ground wire to a bolt in the firewall (between throttle linkageand firewall), then on to 2nd bolt on the front side of the rear engine plate/bell housing. > > > > Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 TBI > > > > PS: Wish me luck, I just bought another 6, this one is a 1971. > > > > > >--------------------------------- > >Looking for last minute shopping deals? Find them fast with Yahoo! Search. > >_______________________________________________ > > > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > >6pack at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > >http://www.team.net/archive > > > >You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Sun Jan 27 07:23:31 2008 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 06:23:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] weber carbs Message-ID: <817751.10416.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone know if there is a differencs with the tr6 dvg conversion and the datsun 240z --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From johnehorton at yahoo.com Sun Jan 27 08:45:10 2008 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 07:45:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Transmission Message-ID: <961121.53632.qm@web51901.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I have the four speed left over from the 5 speed conversion. I cleaned and checked it out. It was working with no problems. No shavings or teeth in the lube when I drained it. It was offered some time before at 200.00 plus shipping to you. I will crate it if wanted. The "package" will weigh at 85lbs. I can ship by truck or fedex express, your choice. John H 76TR6 79Tr7 81TR8 Lotus 7 --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Jan 27 09:01:30 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 11:01:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire In-Reply-To: <479BDDC5.1000903@maine.rr.com> References: <956984.94431.qm@web51406.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <479BDDC5.1000903@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <000a01c860fd$e343e890$210110ac@bobspc> Dave, I can send you a picture of mine but it looks just like the one Moss sells (http://tinyurl.com/36pg7q) with the clamp in the middle. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Saturday, January 26, 2008 8:26 PM To: michael lunsford Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire All you guys with your neg cable with a "clamp" at the firewall, is that clamp something you purchase separately. Seems like TRF ought to sell them that way .... The one I bought from TRF is bare and braided but no midpoint clamp for the firewall connection... Dave '74-Six No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.12/1245 - Release Date: 1/26/2008 3:45 PM From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Jan 27 16:31:10 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 15:31:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Negative battery cable In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <322971.93945.qm@web51407.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I believe that Dave's suspicion is correct since it doesn't make sense for a positive cable to have two lugs on it. As an aside, I looked at the negative cable on the 71 TR 6 that I bought yesterday and it is round and has two lugs on a single cable that is insulated at the top to about 1/3 down. It is bare the rest of the way. The cable on my 1970 is uninsulated silver weaved wire about 1 inch wide and 1/4 inch thick. I guess the old saying "they don't make them like they used to" applies here. I suggest you place your order by phone so you are more likely to get what you want. Cheers. Mike Lunsford David Friedlander wrote: If that's true, Mike, does TRF have their pictures or descriptions for their 516508 and 516509 reversed here? http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/161.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 I assume the description is correct for their P/N 516508. But the midpoint clamp is only shown on the 516509.... Dave '74-Six --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From darcyhunter at comcast.net Sun Jan 27 19:41:55 2008 From: darcyhunter at comcast.net (Darcy Hunter) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:41:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <97AEC32F9E5C4F0596FFD7DC7E21AD21@FamilyRoomHp> P/N 516508 does have the clamp 6 inches for the engine side and is appropriate for bolting to the firewall. Darcy '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA From: David Friedlander Subject: Re: [6pack] Battery Ground Wire To: michael lunsford Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Message-ID: <479BE52A.90202 at maine.rr.com> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" If that's true, Mike, does TRF have their pictures or descriptions for their 516508 and 516509 reversed here? http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/161.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 I assume the description is correct for their P/N 516508. But the midpoint clamp is only shown on the 516509.... Dave '74-Si From superchargedtr6 at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 08:27:09 2008 From: superchargedtr6 at gmail.com (superchargedtr6 at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:27:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] weber carbs References: <817751.10416.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000e01c861c2$405c4e40$0300a8c0@SETH> No John there shouldn't be. A few years back, before the S/C install, I had a set of Weber DGV's from a Datsun 240Z installed on my 6. However, the "gooseneck plenums" off the 240Z were a little different and I had to modify to use on the 6. I had help from people who knew what they were doing ala fabricating. I'd suggest getting the correct plenums and going from there. Also, the jetting may be different, so you'll need to have the correct "jets" installed. Good Luck Seth Glassman '76 (Supercharged) TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 9:23 AM Subject: [6pack] weber carbs > anyone know if there is a differencs with the tr6 dvg cFrom rick.carroll at teradyne.com Mon Jan 28 14:01:45 2008 From: rick.carroll at teradyne.com (rick.carroll at teradyne.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 16:01:45 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Rick Carroll/Bos/Teradyne is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 01/28/2008 and will not return until 02/04/2008. Please contact Theresa Keck for general issues in the Allentown Office at 610-266-3000 if you need assistance. Regards, Rick From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 14:52:03 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 13:52:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Weber DGV Carbs Message-ID: <709409.77104.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> This discussion about Weber DGV carbs is timely since the 71 TR6 I bought yesterday has a set of what looks like new Webers on it. The former owner said he had problems with the ZS carbs so he preplaced them with Webers. He said he paid $800 for.them but couldn't get them to working either. After that he let the car sit in his garage for 7 years before deciding to sell it. Several of my friends have said one likely reason that they didn't work right was because someone put a facet electric fuel pump on the car, He said he has had two on his TR3 and that they only worked sporadically which he described as just enough to idle well but not run well. I don't know much about Webers and have decided to rebuild the ZS carbs and put a stock fuel pump back on the car. Anyone interested in a pair of Webers contact me off net. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6 and 1971 TR6 --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From grant at bowtie6.com Mon Jan 28 14:39:41 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 16:39:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <000301c861f6$4b1d7550$e1585ff0$@com> Oh hell Al!!! Let's just hope that you didn't grenade the engine... Ouch!! Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 15:43 To: 6pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] engine swap / motor skip I finished swaping motors and transmissions Friday. Saturday the car ran real strong, I didn't know a 6 had that much power. The only thing was the valves were clatering. So Sunday I proceed to adjust the valves. They were a bit loose. Bad Move. Should have left well enough alone. Put everything back together, and now its just as doggy as the motor I took out. Actually it seems # 2 cylinder is not firing. I changed plug wires, & spark plugs but still skipping. So I must have screwed up the valve adjusting some how. If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. This is the same guy (me) who adjusted the valves on the other motor, probably \why that one never ran right. Al Salvatore From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Jan 28 15:05:12 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 17:05:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Weber DGV Carbs In-Reply-To: <709409.77104.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <709409.77104.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, Regarding the DGVs - NEVERMIND. Regarding the comment on the Facet pump, tell us more. I've been using a Facet "solid state" electric fuel pump for a long time (10+years) and it works fine. The only problem I ever had was due to a blown fuse. Actually, it wasn't even blown, it was cracked and provided an intermittent connection. But that pump works fine for either DCOE's or ZS 175's, even with 160 HP or so. I'm talking about the one that gives 3 psi... In the case of the former owner having probs, I'd verify that proper fuel flow is getting to the carbs. If I was to guess what's going on, I'd guess that the outlet from the fuel tank is blocked or something "dumb" like that. The fuel is the easy part of the system. Now, that electrical stuff... that's complercated. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Jan 28 15:06:33 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 15:06:33 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [Wedge] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Car status report In-Reply-To: <012820081428.19667.479DE670000091D800004CD322193122529B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF9C0B9A0E080C079D@att.net> References: <012820081428.19667.479DE670000091D800004CD322193122529B0A02D2089B9A019C04040A0DBF9C0B9A0E080C079D@att.net> Message-ID: <479E51E9.6050802@tscusa.org> Thanks for snagging the hook Mickey! We will let you know if these units will be transporting or not and I'll put you on the truck/trailer list. Thanks again richauds at bellsouth.net wrote: > Hey, Glenn - > > I may be a bit south of the mark (typical!), but if the trip participants find themselves along I-24 in Tennessee, I'd be happy to pitch in any way I can. > > Best regards, > Mickey > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 15:50:06 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 14:50:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Weber DGV Carbs In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <310335.21014.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Bob, All I know is what this guy said. If it works for you, the heck with what everyone else thinks. I'm still going with the stock fuel pump on the 71. The DPO who put the pump on just screwed it to the back of the wheel well in the trunk without any rubber washers and the thing echos throughout the car when the key is turned on. Come to think of it I didn't look at the name on the pump myself, I just assumed that the guy who made the comment recognized it since he is the one who said it was a facet pump. Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR6 TBI with a Bosch electric fuel pump Robert Lang wrote: Hi, Regarding the DGVs - NEVERMIND. Regarding the comment on the Facet pump, tell us more. I've been using a Facet "solid state" electric fuel pump for a long time (10+years) and it works fine. The only problem I ever had was due to a blown fuse. Actually, it wasn't even blown, it was cracked and provided an intermittent connection. But that pump works fine for either DCOE's or ZS 175's, even with 160 HP or so. I'm talking about the one that gives 3 psi... In the case of the former owner having probs, I'd verify that proper fuel flow is getting to the carbs. If I was to guess what's going on, I'd guess that the outlet from the fuel tank is blocked or something "dumb" like that. The fuel is the easy part of the system. Now, that electrical stuff... that's complercated. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 28 17:30:08 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 19:30:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] engine swap / motor skip References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> <05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> Message-ID: <009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> Well, I found the problem. I checked the notes I got with the car, and it has a high out put cam. Intake should be .012 & exhaust .014. I guess it didn't like being set at stock .010 I probably put 10 miles on it today, I hope I haven't damaged anything. readjusting now. Thanks Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Randall" To: Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 4:55 PM Subject: Re: [TR] engine swap / motor skip >> If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? > > They would need to be significantly off, not just .002" IMO. > >> How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. > > IMO there should be a slight drag. Purely as a learning exercise, try > using > feelers of +.002" and -.002" from the value you are trying to set. The > -.002" should have no resistance whatsoever (and even rattle a little), > while the +.002" should be too tight to push in. > > The other thing I am wondering : Is it possible your motor has a > non-original camshaft in it ? Many 'performance' cams take significantly > more valve lash than stock, and setting them to the stock clearance can > cause problems at idle. > > If it really runs better with the valves a little loose, then set them a > little loose ... > > Randall > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > You are subscribed as 6parts at charter.net > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.14/1247 - Release Date: > 1/28/2008 10:59 AM From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Jan 28 17:35:05 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 16:35:05 -0800 Subject: [6pack] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts@charter.net>'s message of Mon, 28 Jan 2008 15:43:07 -0500 Message-ID: <24933-479E74B9-6683@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Al---Partial or no firing from one cylinder can certainly cause an engine to feel "doggy", as you claim. Setting the lash a little too loose (or too tight by a couple thou.) shouldn't be the cause of what you're experiencing.. Nor should one's feel on using the feeler gauge. However, if you set them too tight, like with no lash at all, then the valve(s) wouldn't be able to close, and compression could drop out of sight. A simple compression check would show this. Meanwhile, take another look at the #2 valves, to be sure there is some lash. Set them to whatever is the std. for the type of cam you have. Stop the engine so the dist. rotor is pointing right at the #2 plug wire terminal in the cap. If your valve cover happens to be off at this time you should be able to "twirl" both of the pushrods, indicating they're on the cam's base circle. Don't beat yourself up about getting the lash perfect. A set of valves can lose their precise adjustment over the miles, and one would never know it by the seat-of-the-pants. If the valves are set "close enough" and you still have a dead #2, look elsewhere. Dick E-mail message Sender: m.net From: 6parts at charter.net(Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, I finished swaping motors and transmissions Friday. Saturday the car ran real strong, I didn't know a 6 had that much power. The only thing was the valves were clatering. So Sunday I proceed to adjust the valves. They were a bit loose. Bad Move. Should have left well enough alone. Put everything back together, and now its just as doggy as the motor I took out. Actually it seems # 2 cylinder is not firing. I changed plug wires, & spark plugs but still skipping. So I must have screwed up the valve adjusting some how. If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. This is the same guy (me) who adjusted the valves on the other motor, probably \why that one never ran right. Al Salvatore ______________________________________________ From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Jan 28 18:26:44 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 20:26:44 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Steering Column Bushings....EASY! Message-ID: <000b01c86216$053d11b0$210110ac@bobspc> Guys & Gals, I just finished one of those "dreaded" jobs.....replacing the steering column bushings. But I used Art Lipp's Delrin bushings and the job was very easy. No need to remove the shaft, column or even the old bushings. These tap in over the old ones. I just updated my site with directions and pictures, so give it a look see (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/SteeringColumn.htm) Now that I've done it once, I could probably do it again in an hour's time. Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.13/1246 - Release Date: 1/27/2008 6:39 PM From johncnorth at gmail.com Tue Jan 29 20:04:00 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 22:04:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores Message-ID: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> I procrastinated too long on engine re-assembly. Now I see the beginnings of corrosion in one of the bores. It's more like staining than rust at this point. What's the best to do? Will a quick polish with 400 or 1000 grit paper do any harm? Can't imagine it will take more than .0005 off the bore... Other alternatives? John North From bratt at sasktel.net Tue Jan 29 21:50:41 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Tue, 29 Jan 2008 22:50:41 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <000f01c862fb$aa9d5490$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> John: Been there, done that. I suggest an engine cylinder hone with a fine deglazing stone. If your hone will accept a socket and speeder handle, the hone can be turned by hand, giving you a clear view of the hone's progress so you will not over do it and enlarge your bores. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 Tr6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "John North" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, January 29, 2008 9:04 PM Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 30 07:52:40 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 09:52:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 29 Jan 2008, John North wrote: > I procrastinated too long on engine re-assembly. Now I see the > beginnings of corrosion in one of the bores. It's more like staining > than rust at this point. What's the best to do? Will a quick > polish with 400 or 1000 grit paper do any harm? Can't imagine it > will take more than .0005 off the bore... Other alternatives? Wipe them down with some motor oil. That'll lift the loose stuff that's there and leave a surface that won't rust further. If the assembly is to take place soon, buy a cylinder hone (or borrow it) and run it up/down the bores at low speed with an electric drill. Then wipe with a solvent and then clean with detergent and then assemble. I use kerosene as a lube when I do the light hone. You absolutely so not want to remove as much as .0005" from the bore. That will change the piston skirt to wall dimension and the result will be piston slap. Piston fitment is very precise. > John North rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Wed Jan 30 08:09:33 2008 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 10:09:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: I would not suggest the use of the wet-or-dry sand paper. You could use the emery cloth like that used for the final polishing of journals on cranks. However, a "deglazing" hone is the appropriate method. Don't worry about removing too much material. You could not take hardly any off by using your hands. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of John North Sent: Tue 1/29/2008 10:04 PM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores I procrastinated too long on engine re-assembly. Now I see the beginnings of corrosion in one of the bores. It's more like staining than rust at this point. What's the best to do? Will a quick polish with 400 or 1000 grit paper do any harm? Can't imagine it will take more than .0005 off the bore... Other alternatives? John North 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 30 08:15:59 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 10:15:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores (resend) In-Reply-To: References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 30 Jan 2008, Robert Lang wrote: > On Tue, 29 Jan 2008, John North wrote: > >> I procrastinated too long on engine re-assembly. Now I see the >> beginnings of corrosion in one of the bores. It's more like staining >> than rust at this point. What's the best to do? Will a quick >> polish with 400 or 1000 grit paper do any harm? Can't imagine it >> will take more than .0005 off the bore... Other alternatives? > > Wipe them down with some motor oil. That'll lift the loose stuff that's > there and leave a surface that won't rust further. > > If the assembly is to take place soon, buy a cylinder hone (or borrow it) > and run it up/down the bores at low speed with an electric drill. Then > wipe with a solvent and then clean with detergent and then assemble. I use > kerosene as a lube when I do the light hone. > > You absolutely so not want to remove as much as .0005" from the bore. That that should be DO not want. Coffee hasn't kicked in yet. > will change the piston skirt to wall dimension and the result will be > piston slap. Piston fitment is very precise. > >> John North C ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com Wed Jan 30 11:18:03 2008 From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 10:18:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] lucas alternator upgrade Message-ID: <796965.91427.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com> is it possible for an alternator rebuilder to upgrade the internals of my lucas alternator 10 amps or so? i think it's 35A stock, thought 45 or 50A would be comparable to the other conversions people do. i already know about using the delco or the bosch units but i don't want to deal with all the grinding and getting a pulley that will fit, etc. thanks ryan ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Jan 30 12:04:29 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 11:04:29 -0800 Subject: [6pack] lucas alternator upgrade In-Reply-To: <796965.91427.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <796965.91427.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: What would probably be easier is go to NAPA and get a rebuilt alternator for your car for a 1976 TR6. The amount of current kept going up through the model years, even though the externals remained the same. This assumes that youhave an earlier TR6. A rebuilt is about $90 at my local parts store. You can verify the current rating with your parts man. And yes, Lucas alternators are available through most parts places, as they were put on a variety of English cars (Jag, MG, Triumph, Land Rover, etc). The core charge was a whopping $1 at my parts store. Guess they don't need too many cores for rebuilding. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ryan Van Luchene Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 10:18 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] lucas alternator upgrade is it possible for an alternator rebuilder to upgrade the internals of my lucas alternator 10 amps or so? i think it's 35A stock, thought 45 or 50A would be comparable to the other conversions people do. i already know about using the delco or the bosch units but i don't want to deal with all the grinding and getting a pulley that will fit, etc. thanks ryan ________________________________________________________________________ ____________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net Wed Jan 30 12:18:57 2008 From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:18:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Torqueing the Dog Bolt Message-ID: <380-220081330191857796@earthlink.net> Hello My TR6 motor is finally assembled and ready for the journey under the bonnet. I need to torque down the dog bolt (the one on the "snout") that holds the fan adaptor and harmonic damper/pulley to the crankshaft. I'm debating whether to do it now, or when the engine is in place. At the moment, the flywheel and pressure plate are on, but the starter and transmission are not. If I wait until the powertrain is in place, I'll have to use the transmission to immobilize the engine, which doesn't appeal to me because I might damage the freshly-built tranny. If I do it now, what's the best way to immobilize the flywheel? A piece of wood or rebar against the side of the ring gear? Any thoughts? Thanks, Tom Marincic CC55483L (O) http://www.triumphowners.com/735 From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 30 12:22:41 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:22:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] lucas alternator upgrade In-Reply-To: References: <796965.91427.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 30 Jan 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > What would probably be easier is go to NAPA and get a rebuilt > alternator for your car for a 1976 TR6. The amount of current kept going > up through the model years, even though the externals remained the same. Actually, this is not entirely accurate. I believe the early cars had Lucas ACR17 and Lucas ACR18 alternators (and some even had Delco!) But if you ask for an ACR35, that would be a reasonable strategy. I do recall that the ACR18 had a lot higher output than the 17, but it's not "modern levels" of output by any stretch. > This assumes that youhave an earlier TR6. A rebuilt is about $90 > at my local parts store. You can verify the current rating with your > parts man. And yes, Lucas alternators are available through most parts > places, as they were put on a variety of English cars (Jag, MG, Triumph, > Land Rover, etc). > The core charge was a whopping $1 at my parts store. Guess they > don't need too many cores for rebuilding. > > Vance regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 30 12:32:52 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:32:52 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Torqueing the Dog Bolt In-Reply-To: <380-220081330191857796@earthlink.net> References: <380-220081330191857796@earthlink.net> Message-ID: Hi, Use brute force... a 1/2" drive impact gun with 125 psi of line pressure will lock that puppy down at roughly the proper torque. Works every time. Failing than, if you have the oil pan on, use the "rope trick" to keep the motor from spinning. Just make sure that either the rocker shaft is not installed OR you select the proper engine phasing so you don't bend the valves! If the pan is off, you can jam a rag between the block and the crank so the crank won't spin. Just don't leave and "swarf" behind. There's lots of ways to do this job. And if you drink enough beer while doing it, you can come up with new methods! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Jan 30 12:41:28 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 11:41:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Torqueing the Dog Bolt In-Reply-To: "Tomislav Marincic" 's message of Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:18:57 -0500 Message-ID: <716-47A0D2E8-3059@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Tom---Adding the tranny to the engine probably will not keep the crankshaft from turning, when torquing the front pulley bolt. (The clutch most likely would slip) Jamming the ring gear would do the trick. So would using a pipe wrench on the fan extension. Use an aluminum pipe wrench, or cover the jaws if any slight marring is to be avoided. Add a few drops of Blue Loctite on the bolt threads. Some like to install the front pulley after the engine is in place. Personally, I like to assemble all I can when the engine is out. Dick Sender: m.net From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net(Tomislav Marincic) Hello My TR6 motor is finally assembled and ready for the journey under the bonnet. I need to torque down the dog bolt (the one on the "snout") that holds the fan adaptor and harmonic damper/pulley to the crankshaft. I'm debating whether to do it now, or when the engine is in place. At the moment, the flywheel and pressure plate are on, but the starter and transmission are not. If I wait until the powertrain is in place, I'll have to use the transmission to immobilize the engine, which doesn't appeal to me because I might damage the freshly-built tranny. If I do it now, what's the best way to immobilize the flywheel? A piece of wood or rebar against the side of the ring gear? Any thoughts? Thanks, Tom Marincic CC55483L (O) http://www.triumphowners.com/735 ______________________________________________ From superchargedtr6 at gmail.com Mon Jan 28 08:27:09 2008 From: superchargedtr6 at gmail.com (superchargedtr6 at gmail.com) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 10:27:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] weber carbs References: <817751.10416.qm@web30405.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000e01c861c2$405c4e40$0300a8c0@SETH> No John there shouldn't be. A few years back, before the S/C install, I had a set of Weber DGV's from a Datsun 240Z installed on my 6. However, the "gooseneck plenums" off the 240Z were a little different and I had to modify to use on the 6. I had help from people who knew what they were doing ala fabricating. I'd suggest getting the correct plenums and going from there. Also, the jetting may be different, so you'll need to have the correct "jets" installed. Good Luck Seth Glassman '76 (Supercharged) TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "john doe" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, January 27, 2008 9:23 AM Subject: [6pack] weber carbs > anyone know if there is a differencs with the tr6 dvg conversion and the > datsun 240z > > --------------------------------- > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as superchargedtr6 at gmail.com From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 08:51:26 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 07:51:26 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] weber carbs In-Reply-To: <000e01c861c2$405c4e40$0300a8c0@SETH> Message-ID: <614477.14453.qm@web33514.mail.mud.yahoo.com> I have to ask this: Aren't the intake adapters/plenums for the DGV conversion rather restrictive? If so one would think that the conversion would be a detriment instead of an improvement. The existing SU's can be adjusted to allow for compression increases, cams, etc. Lots of needles for 'em, which offers a lot of options for tuning for more performance. However, if one wants to go with Webers the 45 MMCH carb conversion is a great way to go. Uses the existing intake manifold, too. Check out this website: http://www.webercarbsdirect.com/New_Weber_Products_Available_s/96.htm Two pence worth. Jim From 6parts at charter.net Mon Jan 28 13:43:07 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 15:43:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] engine swap / motor skip Message-ID: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan> I finished swaping motors and transmissions Friday. Saturday the car ran real strong, I didn't know a 6 had that much power. The only thing was the valves were clatering. So Sunday I proceed to adjust the valves. They were a bit loose. Bad Move. Should have left well enough alone. Put everything back together, and now its just as doggy as the motor I took out. Actually it seems # 2 cylinder is not firing. I changed plug wires, & spark plugs but still skipping. So I must have screwed up the valve adjusting some how. If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. This is the same guy (me) who adjusted the valves on the other motor, probably \why that one never ran right. Al Salvatore From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Jan 28 14:52:03 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 28 Jan 2008 13:52:03 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Weber DGV Carbs Message-ID: <709409.77104.qm@web51405.mail.re2.yahoo.com> This discussion about Weber DGV carbs is timely since the 71 TR6 I bought yesterday has a set of what looks like new Webers on it. The former owner said he had problems with the ZS carbs so he preplaced them with Webers. He said he paid $800 for.them but couldn't get them to working either. After that he let the car sit in his garage for 7 years before deciding to sell it. Several of my friends have said one likely reason that they didn't work right was because someone put a facet electric fuel pump on the car, He said he has had two on his TR3 and that they only worked sporadically which he described as just enough to idle well but not run well. I don't know much about Webers and have decided to rebuild the ZS carbs and put a stock fuel pump back on the car. Anyone interested in a pair of Webers contact me off net. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR6 and 1971 TR6 --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 30 08:15:59 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 10:15:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores (resend) In-Reply-To: References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 30 Jan 2008, Robert Lang wrote: > On Tue, 29 Jan 2008, John North wrote: > >> I procrastinated too long on engine re-assembly. Now I see the >> beginnings of corrosion in one of the bores. It's more like staining >> than rust at this point. What's the best to do? Will a quick >> polish with 400 or 1000 grit paper do any harm? Can't imagine it >> will take more than .0005 off the bore... Other alternatives? > > Wipe them down with some motor oil. That'll lift the loose stuff that's > there and leave a surface that won't rust further. > > If the assembly is to take place soon, buy a cylinder hone (or borrow it) > and run it up/down the bores at low speed with an electric drill. Then > wipe with a solvent and then clean with detergent and then assemble. I use > kerosene as a lube when I do the light hone. > > You absolutely so not want to remove as much as .0005" from the bore. That that should be DO not want. Coffee hasn't kicked in yet. > will change the piston skirt to wall dimension and the result will be > piston slap. Piston fitment is very precise. > >> John North C ya, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Jan 30 12:22:41 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:22:41 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] lucas alternator upgrade In-Reply-To: References: <796965.91427.qm@web51308.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Wed, 30 Jan 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > What would probably be easier is go to NAPA and get a rebuilt > alternator for your car for a 1976 TR6. The amount of current kept going > up through the model years, even though the externals remained the same. Actually, this is not entirely accurate. I believe the early cars had Lucas ACR17 and Lucas ACR18 alternators (and some even had Delco!) But if you ask for an ACR35, that would be a reasonable strategy. I do recall that the ACR18 had a lot higher output than the 17, but it's not "modern levels" of output by any stretch. > This assumes that youhave an earlier TR6. A rebuilt is about $90 > at my local parts store. You can verify the current rating with your > parts man. And yes, Lucas alternators are available through most parts > places, as they were put on a variety of English cars (Jag, MG, Triumph, > Land Rover, etc). > The core charge was a whopping $1 at my parts store. Guess they > don't need too many cores for rebuilding. > > Vance regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lfm614 at aol.com Wed Jan 30 16:50:46 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 23:50:46 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Torqueing the Dog Bolt In-Reply-To: <380-220081330191857796@earthlink.net> References: <380-220081330191857796@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <1657447973-1201737199-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1428161806-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I have always found it much easier to mate the engine and tranny out of the car where I can align it all without being a contortionist. Then I install the engine, attach the prop shaft and then add the fan extension torquing it up using the drive train as a backup. Installing it last also leaves of about 5" off the front to snag on and crease the top of the grille opening. But like they say......your mileage may vary. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Tomislav Marincic" Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 14:18:57 To:"6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Torqueing the Dog Bolt Hello My TR6 motor is finally assembled and ready for the journey under the bonnet. I need to torque down the dog bolt (the one on the "snout") that holds the fan adaptor and harmonic damper/pulley to the crankshaft. I'm debating whether to do it now, or when the engine is in place. At the moment, the flywheel and pressure plate are on, but the starter and transmission are not. If I wait until the powertrain is in place, I'll have to use the transmission to immobilize the engine, which doesn't appeal to me because I might damage the freshly-built tranny. If I do it now, what's the best way to immobilize the flywheel? A piece of wood or rebar against the side of the ring gear? Any thoughts? Thanks, Tom Marincic CC55483L (O) http://www.triumphowners.com/735 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From johncnorth at gmail.com Wed Jan 30 17:25:08 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:25:08 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores In-Reply-To: References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <49f668fe0801301625k13baa089r49694dab53cc1c3e@mail.gmail.com> What is it about wet or dry that makes the difference? Scratches? I will look for an appropriate hone. Always ready to buy more tools. John On Jan 30, 2008 10:09 AM, Ruffner, James A *HS wrote: > I would not suggest the use of the wet-or-dry sand paper. You could use the emery cloth like that used for the final polishing of journals on cranks. However, a "deglazing" hone is the appropriate method. Don't worry about removing too much material. You could not take hardly any off by using your hands. > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of John North > Sent: Tue 1/29/2008 10:04 PM > To: Triumph 6 Pack > Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores > > > I procrastinated too long on engine re-assembly. Now I see the > beginnings of corrosion in one of the bores. It's more like staining > than rust at this point. What's the best to do? Will a quick > polish with 400 or 1000 grit paper do any harm? Can't imagine it > will take more than .0005 off the bore... Other alternatives? > > John North > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Jan 30 17:36:32 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 19:36:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com> <49f668fe0801301625k13baa089r49694dab53cc1c3e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <003201c863a1$54609780$670fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> All abrasives work by donating some of the abrasive material to the process of removing what ever they come into contact with. In my limited experience, emery cloth does shed particles quite quickly: good quality high number (420 and above) wet and dry will still shed bits, but at a reduced level and the particles will be small. A hone will also leave its own detritus, although it will be very fine particles. I think the message is that after you finish the rust removal, make sure you flush the bores and any orifices nearby with liberal quantities of cleaning solvent. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "John North" Cc: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:25 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores > What is it about wet or dry that makes the difference? Scratches? > I will look for an appropriate hone. Always ready to buy more tools. > > John > > On Jan 30, 2008 10:09 AM, Ruffner, James A *HS > wrote: >> I would not suggest the use of the wet-or-dry sand paper. You could use >> the emery cloth like that used for the final polishing of journals on >> cranks. However, a "deglazing" hone is the appropriate method. Don't >> worry about removing too much material. You could not take hardly any >> off by using your hands. From 6parts at charter.net Wed Jan 30 18:16:56 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 20:16:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] engine swap / motor skip References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com> <009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> Randal was right. Cam is non stock; supposed to be a 270 cam. I reset the valves to .012 inake & .014 exhaust. Better, but still skipping. I went on the electrical hunt: Changed Plugs, still skipping. Changed plug wires, nothing yet. Changed distributer cap. Some improvement, At least car could go down the Street. Went about 10 miles, Alternator light started coming on, started skipping some more. There still doesn't seem to be any spark in # 2 cylinder. At least when I unplug # 2 theres no difference. If I unplug any of the other spark plugs the idle changes. Running out of ideas Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> To: "Randall" ; ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 7:30 PM Subject: Re: [TR] engine swap / motor skip > Well, I found the problem. > I checked the notes I got with the car, and it has a high out put cam. > Intake should be .012 & exhaust .014. > > I guess it didn't like being set at stock .010 > > I probably put 10 miles on it today, I hope I haven't damaged anything. > > readjusting now. > > Thanks > > Al > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Randall" > To: > Sent: Monday, January 28, 2008 4:55 PM > Subject: Re: [TR] engine swap / motor skip > > >>> If the valves were off would that cause a cylinder not to fire? >> >> They would need to be significantly off, not just .002" IMO. >> >>> How easy should the feeler guage move. No drag or slight drag. >> >> IMO there should be a slight drag. Purely as a learning exercise, try >> using >> feelers of +.002" and -.002" from the value you are trying to set. The >> -.002" should have no resistance whatsoever (and even rattle a little), >> while the +.002" should be too tight to push in. >> >> The other thing I am wondering : Is it possible your motor has a >> non-original camshaft in it ? Many 'performance' cams take significantly >> more valve lash than stock, and setting them to the stock clearance can >> cause problems at idle. >> >> If it really runs better with the valves a little loose, then set them a >> little loose ... >> >> Randall >> _______________________________________________ From 6parts at charter.net Wed Jan 30 18:52:54 2008 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 20:52:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR6] engine swap / motor skip Message-ID: <000601c863ab$ff76eac0$03d30c47@alan> > Randal was right. > Cam is non stock; supposed to be a 270 cam. > > I reset the valves to .012 inake & .014 exhaust. > > Better, but still skipping. > I went on the electrical hunt: > Changed Plugs, still skipping. > Changed plug wires, nothing yet. > Changed distributer cap. Some improvement, At least car could go down the > Street. > Went about 10 miles, Alternator light started coming on, started skipping > some more. > There still doesn't seem to be any spark in # 2 cylinder. > At least when I unplug # 2 theres no difference. > If I unplug any of the other spark plugs the idle changes. > > Running out of ideas > > Al From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Wed Jan 30 20:44:23 2008 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Wed, 30 Jan 2008 22:44:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores References: <49f668fe0801291904k1d130ec7i6e00570f4c698263@mail.gmail.com><49f668fe0801301625k13baa089r49694dab53cc1c3e@mail.gmail.com> <003201c863a1$54609780$670fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: One always finishes such a job with a thorough flushing with a good solvent, then wipes down the surface with an oily cloth. A 1000 fine emery cloth band is the standard material used in the final stage of cutting the journals on a crank. Not wet-or-dry. Of course, in the final stage the journals are wiped with a solvent and finally a oil cloth. A deglazing hone is used in exactly the same manner. In the old days, when for example one rebuilt cast iron brake cylinders, you used a special set of hones that were about 1000 fine. Same procedure as above. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of Tony Gordon Sent: Wed 1/30/2008 7:36 PM To: John North; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores All abrasives work by donating some of the abrasive material to the process of removing what ever they come into contact with. In my limited experience, emery cloth does shed particles quite quickly: good quality high number (420 and above) wet and dry will still shed bits, but at a reduced level and the particles will be small. A hone will also leave its own detritus, although it will be very fine particles. I think the message is that after you finish the rust removal, make sure you flush the bores and any orifices nearby with liberal quantities of cleaning solvent. ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "John North" Cc: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 7:25 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Corrosion in cylinder bores > What is it about wet or dry that makes the difference? Scratches? > I will look for an appropriate hone. Always ready to buy more tools. > > John > > On Jan 30, 2008 10:09 AM, Ruffner, James A *HS > wrote: >> I would not suggest the use of the wet-or-dry sand paper. You could use >> the emery cloth like that used for the final polishing of journals on >> cranks. However, a "deglazing" hone is the appropriate method. Don't >> worry about removing too much material. You could not take hardly any >> off by using your hands. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From dwatson at cet.edu Sat Jan 5 15:46:55 2008 From: dwatson at cet.edu (Watson, Don) Date: Sat, 05 Jan 2008 22:46:55 -0000 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Rear Disc Brake Brackets, update Message-ID: <58BFC64F64FA454BB19672F36FE3D084010C6CB2@exch01.cet.edu> Joe, Thanks for the guidance on the steel wheels! I pulled the Panasports off, installed my spare steel wheel and checked for clearance. All clear with ample room for stock wheels. The 15"x7" Panasports have 0mm offset, 3.9" backspace, whereas the stock steel wheels run +12mm offset, 3.5" backspace. See attached pictures. [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC07354.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC07355.JPG] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/jpeg which had a name of DSC07357.JPG] From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Jan 27 21:44:51 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 27 Jan 2008 21:44:51 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Car status report Message-ID: <479D5DC3.3040900@tscusa.org> Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Car status report Greetings All, 2008 is either 1/12 gone, or 11/12 remaining to excite us depending on your point of view. As a refresher, John Macartney of Standard Triumph fame is going to drive a Triumph Stag, that I locate and coordinate the restoration, 10K miles across North America starting in July in 2009, all for charity. This Stag will then be raffled at Triumphest 2009 / North American Triumph Challenge 2009 in San Luis Obispo California, the proceeds going to a PTSD charity called "A Gift From Within" in the USA. Fund raising is currently underway in the UK, and in planning for Canada. http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ This means my first critical path milestone of finding a suitable Triumph Stag for restoration is rapidly approaching the wire. My goal date to locate suitable candidates is 31 January 2008, with my absolute drop dead date to have a Stag in the process of being striped down is 31 March 2008. We are at about 16 months before this drive begins. To date I have had a couple offers of cars to purchase Stags, but The Macartney Charitable Trust is not yet in a position to make such an outright purchase, so we go with what we got. I have an offer of two absolutely rank restoration bases to begin 100% restorations. Since ISOA will be doing the complete strip down and body restoration, (much more IF we all LET them get away with it) the final selection of the car I locate is really up to them. Remember, John and I will be approaching Stag parts suppliers for the parts to completely restore these cars, all we need are charitable minded, willing and capable Triumph enthusiasts do do the rest. This IS all for charity folks!!! The two free cars are located in Clayton North Carolina, but I must admit, these are kind of rough even by my standards, but they are offered free to the project. I would really appreciate a few in better starting point to pop up, or even a benefactor or two to purchase a running base unit today so we can round out our selection to the best fit to restore. IF these two cars are selected, the first logistic is to locate enough people to leap frog relay these cars with truck/trailer, from their current resting place in North Carolina to Hampshire, Illinois, ASAP. I already have two volunteers with single car trailers along that Interstate route, but I could use two or three more to help shorten the distance each volunteer has to travel - or, someone with a two car trailer (or access to persons with these tools) to move both cars in the same drive. So all you Triumph Clubs in a general line taking interstate highways between say Raleigh NC and Chicago IL, please step up and let us know if you have such resources available to you within the next month. We could also use some muscle on either end and of course en route exchanging the cars onto trailers during the relay. If suitable cars pop up from other areas around the country, I would still need to organize transportation to Hampshire Illinois to begin the restoration. Plus, I am looking for clubs and suppliers to volunteer for all other areas of this restoration, drive, and support. Thanks for taking the time to read this, with the hope there are enthusiastic folks out there who are willing to step up and support this effort. Cheers! Glenn Merrell Triumph Trans AmeriCan USA donor car coordinator TSC USA Chair StagByTriumph at tscusa.org -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Jan 31 14:56:02 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 13:56:02 -0800 Subject: [6pack] [TR] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: Al: Other possibilities: 1. Flat cam lobe on #2 cylinder 2. Dwell angle (ask me how I know) 3. Bad distributor cam (flat lobe) Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 5:17 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] engine swap / motor skip Randal was right. Cam is non stock; supposed to be a 270 cam. I reset the valves to .012 inake & .014 exhaust. Better, but still skipping. I went on the electrical hunt: Changed Plugs, still skipping. Changed plug wires, nothing yet. Changed distributer cap. Some improvement, At least car could go down the Street. Went about 10 miles, Alternator light started coming on, started skipping some more. There still doesn't seem to be any spark in # 2 cylinder. At least when I unplug # 2 theres no difference. If I unplug any of the other spark plugs the idle changes. Running out of ideas Al From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Jan 31 15:14:24 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 16:14:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] switch or knob refurbishing References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <002a01c86457$63c61f40$8215a8c0@garage.local> hi, all. i apologize for the bandwidth usage, but i've poured through my old emails and can't find what i'm looking for. there is a lister, i believe, who sells a "pen paint" which is very good for old switches. i bought it some time ago, finally got it out and tested it, and it worked great. i have no idea where it went so i need to order it again. thanks! From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Jan 31 15:27:26 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 17:27:26 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] [TR] engine swap / motor skip In-Reply-To: References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan> <01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: Hi, Put your timing light on the #2 plug wire with the engine running. Does the timing light fire? If not, track down high-tension probs first. Then look at the mechanical stuff... valve lash (already discussed), static compression, leak-down, etc. But part of tracking down the HT stuff is looking at the plug. What does the plug look like? How does it compare with #1 or #3? What happens if you flip the plugs beteen the holes. I'm just throwing out ideas here. But anyone that "hangs" with me knows that I go for the compression gauge and leak-down tester pretty early in the game. I def. got my $$$ worth out of those tools in the last 30 years or so! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Jan 31 16:11:58 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 18:11:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing Message-ID: <000801c8645e$afe73dd0$210110ac@bobspc> I've heard horror stories about installing these nylon shaft bearings #19 (http://tinyurl.com/yvq8qf) so I was very pleased when they went in without too much trouble. The problem now is getting the accelerator shaft back through them as there isn't enough room in the driver's foot well to accommodate the length of the shaft. Before I start tearing things apart, does removing the interior carpeted panel free up room or do I have to remove the bearing from the car, slide it over the shaft and work it back on to the car once the shaft is in place? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.17/1252 - Release Date: 1/30/2008 8:51 PM From DLylis at aol.com Thu Jan 31 18:40:00 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 31 Jan 2008 20:40:00 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing Message-ID: Bob, As I recall from when I did it, the bushes need to be on the shaft when it goes into place to make this thing all come together correctly. Ergo, the horror stories. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Start the year off right. Easy ways to stay in shape. http://body.aol.com/fitness/winter-exercise?NCID=aolcmp00300000002489 From bratt at sasktel.net Thu Jan 31 23:25:21 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 00:25:21 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Car status report References: <479D5DC3.3040900@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <005501c8649b$38fe2f70$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Glenn: You see some pretty nice Stags for sale at reasonable prices. http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&ID=1188577522&Lang=English Ed Bratt Regina Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn A. Merrell" Drive,January 2008 Donor Car status report