From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Fri Feb  1 00:14:23 2008
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 02:14:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Accelerator Shaft Bearing/Bushing
Message-ID: <380-220082517142346@earthlink.net>

Bob,

I put the bushings in place first , then got the acc. pedal shaft through despite the severe angle. My TR6 had no kick panels in place when I did it, but my TR250 did. The trick is to be sure that you put the driver's side bushing in from the footwell, not from the engine compartment. That way you're not popping it out when you push with the shaft. Then line the shaft up as best you can, and be sure you're rotating it as you push against the bushing. A little dishwashing detergent helps.

Good Luck, Tom
CC55483L


"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau

http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 05:42:58 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 04:42:58 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Donor Car status report
In-Reply-To: <005501c8649b$38fe2f70$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
Message-ID: <63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

OK list members.
   
  i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
   
  ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that please?

Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
  Glenn:

You see some pretty nice Stags for sale at reasonable prices.

http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&ID=1188577522&Lang=English

Ed Bratt
Regina Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb  1 06:40:25 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 08:40:25 EST
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Donor  Stag
Message-ID: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>

Lists:

Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.

http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
ID=1188577522&Lang=English

I think JonMac would look good in this car.

I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.

Regards,,

Joe A
Jesup, Iowa

PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.


> OK list members.
>    
>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>    
>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
> please?
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Feb  1 09:19:25 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 08:19:25 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January  2008 Donor Car status report
In-Reply-To: <63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <005501c8649b$38fe2f70$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
	<63850.87247.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802010819y6dba8a74r7195eb0536f56a05@mail.gmail.com>

Good looking car.  Hope it will work for the "Drive".

I will donate $100.  Who does the check go to?

Chuck

On Feb 1, 2008 4:42 AM, oliver <sumton at sbcglobal.net> wrote:

> OK list members.
>
>  i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>
>  ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that
> please?
>
> Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:
>  Glenn:
>
> You see some pretty nice Stags for sale at reasonable prices.
>
>
> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>
> Ed Bratt
> Regina Saskatchewan
> 1976 TR6
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 10:38:23 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 10:38:23 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January    2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
References: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47A3590F.409@tscusa.org>

Joe,

Wow!! 

I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100. 

I'll put up $100 also.  So that is now $200 and we only need 33 more 
$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into 
transportation costs to Illinois.

But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only 
16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember, 
regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a 
370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the 
concours restoration.

The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone 
putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to 
win this car back.

Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?

Lets GO!!

Glenn Merrell

N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
> Lists:
>
> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>
> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>
> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>
> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>
> Regards,,
>
> Joe A
> Jesup, Iowa
>
> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>
>
>   
>> OK list members.
>>    
>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>    
>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>> please?
>>
>>
>>     
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 11:28:16 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 11:28:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January    2008 Donor  Stag - for real?
In-Reply-To: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
References: <d62.1121de28.34d47b49@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47A364C0.7020201@tscusa.org>

Joe,

Wow!!

Of course, this must be validated as a genuine sale vehicle before any 
money is collected.  Is there anyone local who can go take a look at 
this car?

I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100.

Once it is validated, I'll put up $100 toward the purchase also.  So 
that is now $200 and we only need 33 more
$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into
transportation costs to Illinois.

But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only
16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember,
regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a
370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the
concours restoration.

The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
win this car back.

Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?

Lets GO!!

Glenn Merrell

N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
> Lists:
>
> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>
> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>
> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>
> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>
> Regards,,
>
> Joe A
> Jesup, Iowa
>
> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>
>
>   
>> OK list members.
>>    
>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>    
>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>> please?
>>
>>
>>     
>
>   

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
dead bugs on the windshield!

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb  1 11:39:34 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 13:39:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?=5BTR=5D_Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Chari?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?ty_Drive=2C_January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag?=
Message-ID: <209E06A5.01247C2B.00159EE9@cs.com>

GLENN,

'OLIVER' started this ball rolling....not me.

I will support the effort, however.

JOE ALEXANDER


>Joe,
>
>Wow!! 
>
>I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100. 
>
>I'll put up $100 also.  So that is now $200 and we only need 33 more 
>$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into 
>transportation costs to Illinois.
>
>But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only 
>16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember, 
>regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a 
>370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the 
>concours restoration.
>
>The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone 
>putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to 
>win this car back.
>
>Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?
>
>Lets GO!!
>
>Glenn Merrell
>
>N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>> Lists:
>>
>> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>>
>> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
>> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>>
>> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>>
>> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>>
>> Regards,,
>>
>> Joe A
>> Jesup, Iowa
>>
>> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>>
>>
>>   
>>> OK list members.
>>>    
>>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>>    
>>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>>> please?
>>>
>>>
>>>     
>>
>>   
>
>-- 
>Glenn A. Merrell
>Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
>The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb  1 11:44:29 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 13:44:29 -0500
Subject: [6pack]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?=5BTR=5D_Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Chari?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?ty_Drive=2C_January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag_-_for_real=3F?=
Message-ID: <121CCA72.6E7A7BAB.00159EE9@cs.com>

GEORGIA  TRIUMPH ASSOCIATION comes to mind...like RONNIE & ASHFORD.

>Joe,
>
>Wow!!
>
>Of course, this must be validated as a genuine sale vehicle before any 
>money is collected.  Is there anyone local who can go take a look at 
>this car?
>
>I think it is a great idea for 35 listers to donate $100.
>
>Once it is validated, I'll put up $100 toward the purchase also.  So 
>that is now $200 and we only need 33 more
>$100, and if it can be negotiated down, the extra money can go into
>transportation costs to Illinois.
>
>But if it is going to happen, it has to happen quickly as there are only
>16 months to get this car through a nut-n-bolt restoration.  Remember,
>regardless of initial condition, the car WILL be restored to at least a
>370 point car before the drive.  The better the car, the easier the
>concours restoration.
>
>The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
>putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
>win this car back.
>
>Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this restoration?
>
>Lets GO!!
>
>Glenn Merrell
>
>N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:
>> Lists:
>>
>> Dave, This looks like a very nice Stag for the money.
>>
>> http://thefreeclassifieds.net/cgi-bin/classified/classified.cgi?action=ViewAd&
>> ID=1188577522&Lang=English
>>
>> I think JonMac would look good in this car.
>>
>> I am in for $100   if the transaction proceeds.
>>
>> Regards,,
>>
>> Joe A
>> Jesup, Iowa
>>
>> PS: This will enhance the Triumph name and the value of Stags, certainly.
>>
>>
>>   
>>> OK list members.
>>>    
>>>   i'll put in $100.  who'll match me?  we need 34 others to buy this.
>>>    
>>>   ed - this probably won't forward to the other lists; would you do that 
>>> please?
>>>
>>>
>>>     
>>
>>   
>
>-- 
>Glenn A. Merrell
>Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
>The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
>dead bugs on the windshield!

From richards at hollywoodcenter.com  Fri Feb  1 12:35:19 2008
From: richards at hollywoodcenter.com (Richard Schnyder)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 11:35:19 -0800
Subject: [6pack] British Car Day
Message-ID: <003201c86509$95939f90$2e00a8c0@internal>

BRITISH CAR DAY
Winter Version


AT CARS AND COFFEE
7905 Gateway Blvd., Irvine, CA  92618
At the Ford Design Center


WILL BE SATURDAY, MARCH 08, 2008





>From our friends at Ford:

Ford will have their top design executives from Ford worldwide coming here
for a design review in March. Several of them are coming from England, and
are keen enthusiasts of the cars we all love -- Healeys, Triumphs, Jaguars,
Morgans, etc. We'd like the date for British Cars Day to be Saturday, March
8, and we will invite the design execs to come in for the weekend to join
Cars & Coffee. I'm sure they will provide lots of interesting conversation
for the participants!






And a Second 2008 British Car Day!

THE SPRING BRITISH CAR DAY AT CARS AND COFFEE WILL BE SATURDAY, MAY 10,
2008.



e-mail: vintagegarage at hotmail.com
http://www.carsandcoffee.info/main.html

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 12:35:28 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 13:35:28 -0600
Subject: [6pack]
 =?iso-8859-1?q?=5BTR=5D_Triumph_Trans_AmeriCan_2009_Chari?=
 =?iso-8859-1?q?ty_Drive=2C_January_=A0_2008Donor_=A0Stag_-_for_real=3F?=
References: <121CCA72.6E7A7BAB.00159EE9@cs.com>
Message-ID: <000201c86509$9bbd13b0$89090a0a@garage.local>

pledges or corrections, please send to me

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

thanks

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 13:34:42 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 13:34:42 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January   2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com>
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com>
Message-ID: <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>

According to the list Oliver put up, officially 6, but I had two more 
contact me off list.  So it looks like 8 so far in about what, 30 minutes??
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

I will be calling Jody Gorman this evening to find out the details

I will be chatting with John Macartney via Skype today to find out the 
status of the raffle ticket booklets.

Dave1massey at cs.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/1/2008 11:39:06 AM Central Standard Time, 
> StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:
>> The details are not completely worked out yet, I would bet that everyone
>> putting up $100 would also get a book of raffle tickets as a chance to
>> win this car back.
>>
>> Okay, any more people wishing to help secure this car for this 
>> restoration?
>>
>
> I'm in.  How many does that make? 
-- 

Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
SKYPE id is stagbytriumph
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 14:00:03 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 14:00:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January      2008 Donor  St...
In-Reply-To: <c0c.29ec682e.34d4df42@aol.com>
References: <c0c.29ec682e.34d4df42@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A38853.3040501@tscusa.org>

BearTranserv at aol.com wrote:
> How about I put up the whole $3400 and a little more for parts...with  Ed's 
> discount of course, and keep the car after the event?
>  
> Robert B.  Houston
> Texan in New Mexico
>
> 63 TR4
Nice Robert ...
But this is a serious and bona fide event.
I' don't think the charity, nor  clubs donating the several thousand 
people hours of labor for  the nut-n-bolt restoration would go along 
with that one ...  =-O   Now that would be quite the deal, $3400 
invested for a $30K return.
The car is going to be used to generate tens of thousands to benefit 
charity in the form of the raffle the tickets sold during its drive 
across North America.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
SKYPE id is stagbytriumph
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 14:13:08 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 14:13:08 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January       2008 Donor  S...
In-Reply-To: <bd9.293bb0ba.34d4e3f2@aol.com>
References: <bd9.293bb0ba.34d4e3f2@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47A38B64.50705@tscusa.org>

TR250Driver at aol.com wrote:
> Whatever the last bid is:  I DOUBLE  IT!
>  
> Seriously, I would fork over a C Note for a good  cause.  Besides I need a 
> Stag sometime.
> Count me in if it goes this way.
> Darrell
>
>   
Darrell
If you want to be placed on the list of pledging benefactor 
contributors, send your name, city/state and email contact with amount to
Oliver at sumton at sbcglobal.net
and he will add you to the list being maintained at
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

Although the Raffle tickets have not yet been sorted or printed, my 
thinking is that each $100 donated gets a raffle ticket book in return 
once they come available.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 15:53:04 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 16:53:04 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January     2008 Donor  Stag
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com> <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
	<09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <004001c86525$36344650$800101df@garage.local>

check it out guys n gals!!!!!!!!!!!

$1500 in less than 8 hours!!!!!!!!

Who's next?  Let's break $2k tonight!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 16:02:17 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 17:02:17 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $$$1,600
Message-ID: <005601c86526$7fc308f0$800101df@garage.local>


From 6parts at charter.net  Fri Feb  1 16:11:11 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 18:11:11 -0500
Subject: [6pack]  [TR] engine swap / motor skip  Update
References: <001001c861ee$6338d9c0$03d30c47@alan><05af01c861f8$80ad64d0$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com><009701c8620e$1a7e05f0$03d30c47@alan>
	<01bc01c863a6$f9219df0$03d30c47@alan>
Message-ID: <001401c86527$bc2dd7b0$03d30c47@alan>

Brought the car over to Dr. Mike this afternoon.

Compression check showed all cylinders at 160-165.
Found Distributor wasn't tight, re-checked the timing.
Still Couldn't get a smooth idle.
Checked the rotor;  One sloppy rotor.
Put new rotor on.
Now shes running smooth again.

Also, by the time I got there the oil had cleared up.

What a relief  !!!!

I redrained the oil and replaced the filter, just as an added precaution,
and we still have clear oil.

The grey must have been some residue from initally over filling it with oil.

Thanks to  all

Al Salvatore

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb  1 17:09:01 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 01 Feb 2008 17:09:01 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive,
 January  2008 Donor  Stag
In-Reply-To: <09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com> <47A38262.30309@tscusa.org>
	<09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
Message-ID: <47A3B49D.4050309@tscusa.org>

Randall wrote:
> I'm in, but ... doesn't it seem odd that this car has languished for 5
> months at such an attractive price ?  
>   
>> I will be calling Jody Gorman this evening to find out the details
>>     
>
> Hopefully that's the owner ...
>
> Randall
Fortunately one of our Club members in Georgia has received a bunch of 
photos from the owner and talked to the owner on the car condition a 
while back.  I am looking them over now.  The car, aside from being an 
early sanction 1971 vehicle (early or mark I)  has a few issues but 
considering it is to be restored, that is not a problem.  We could 
discuss with the owner about a donation.

However, ISOA also has a nice 1973 Stag lined up for a purchase that is 
$3300, and already in Illinois so transportation would be quite a bit 
less cost and effort.

 So one way or the other, the pledges will be able to be spent toward 
acquiring  a car for John.

I think this brings up the need to get an online pledge list rolling so 
when the North American charity side of things is set up, we have a list 
of pledges and can give proper tax deduction documentation for the 
monies collected.  My goal there is to have those details sorted by the 
end of February 2008.

I am happy to see such response toward this event at such an early 
period.  Do keep it up as we get the final details ironed out.

Cheers!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
SKYPE id stagbytriumph
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Feb  1 17:09:42 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 00:09:42 -0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive -
 DONATIONS TO BUY STAG
References: <bf7.2829be33.34d4cc64@cs.com>
	<47A38262.30309@tscusa.org><09c101c86522$39a1fd30$6a5636cc@jdnet.deere.com>
	<004001c86525$36344650$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <00a601c8652f$e967ee70$0201a8c0@Bevan>

You guys are absolutely FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I really can't thank you enough for rallying round so soon, so quickly - and so generously.

Could this be a bit of bit of AmeriCan versus British competition? The UK Spitfire that's being 
raffled in the UK and Ireland only, came into our custodianship today - and I've already added it to 
Joe Curry's international database. This is a MINT Spitfire and whoever wins it in September 2009 
will have one helluva car. There are a few pix on the event website www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk 
but I'll be putting up a presentation of a further 20 odd pix I took of it a week ago.

Cheers, Jonmac


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 01, 2008 10:53 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive, January 2008 Donor Stag


> check it out guys n gals!!!!!!!!!!!
>
> $1500 in less than 8 hours!!!!!!!!
>
> Who's next?  Let's break $2k tonight!!!
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 18:25:29 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 19:25:29 -0600
Subject: [6pack] UNBELIEVABLE!!!!!
Message-ID: <003a01c8653a$9be89a40$800101df@garage.local>

$$$2,100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

You people are great!

Several have asked where to send the money.  I recommend that we send it to
whomever is going to actually physically take possession of the automobile.

I'll get my cut later.   (kidding)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 19:43:29 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 20:43:29 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $2,900
Message-ID: <002101c86545$66eff5d0$800101df@garage.local>

We are SO close!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  1 22:32:57 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 1 Feb 2008 23:32:57 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $3,300
Message-ID: <002401c8655d$131c12f0$800101df@garage.local>

We are SO close!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sat Feb  2 03:57:27 2008
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 05:57:27 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Bonnet buffer wedge position
Message-ID: <380-22008262105727546@earthlink.net>

Hello,

I need to install the 4 rubber wedges that keep the hood/bonnett from rubbing against the inner fenders when it's down. The problem is that I replaced the tops of my inner fenders, so the holes are gone. I'd like to position them as close as possible to the original location.

Could someone please take a moment and measure the location of the center of their bonnet buffers from a reference point, such as the cowl panel or the bonnet support cones? I notice there's a raised boss stamped in one place toward the aft side of the inner fenders; does one set of buffers go on this? Finally, does the flat bottom side of the buffers go all the way down against the fenders, or are they "raised" to some degree? 

Thanks again, Tom
CC55483L

http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sat Feb  2 04:43:33 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 06:43:33 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Bonnet buffer wedge position
In-Reply-To: <380-22008262105727546@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22008262105727546@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <47A45765.9090706@roadrunner.com>

Tom,

I don't want to give you my measurements since the car I have here has 
had the inners replaced. I did want to tell you how much I like the work 
you are doing. Keep at it, it looks great! I personally really like the 
Damson on a TR6. Looks very sexy when all done.

Jim Franks  (I'm a pilot with a British car obsession, too!)



Tomislav Marincic wrote:
> Hello,
>
> I need to install the 4 rubber wedges that keep the hood/bonnett from rubbing against the inner fenders when it's down. The problem is that I replaced the tops of my inner fenders, so the holes are gone. I'd like to position them as close as possible to the original location.
>
> Could someone please take a moment and measure the location of the center of their bonnet buffers from a reference point, such as the cowl panel or the bonnet support cones? I notice there's a raised boss stamped in one place toward the aft side of the inner fenders; does one set of buffers go on this? Finally, does the flat bottom side of the buffers go all the way down against the fenders, or are they "raised" to some degree? 
>
> Thanks again, Tom
> CC55483L
>
> http://www.triumphowners.com/735
> _______________________________________________

From grant at bowtie6.com  Sat Feb  2 04:51:20 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 06:51:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Bonnet buffer wedge position
In-Reply-To: <380-22008262105727546@earthlink.net>
References: <380-22008262105727546@earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <000e01c86591$edf21df0$c9d659d0$@com>

Tom,

I just took some pictures for you with a measuring tape for reference.  I
hope this answers your questions.  My front fenders are 100% original, never
bent or damaged in any way.  I think you will see from the pictures the
measurement you want.

You can find the pictures on the 6-Pack online forum.  Here is the thread I
started for you:
http://www.6-pack.org/modules.php?name=Forums&file=viewtopic&p=26612#26612

I hope this helps.

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Tomislav Marincic
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 05:57
To: 6pack
Subject: [6pack] Bonnet buffer wedge position

Hello,

I need to install the 4 rubber wedges that keep the hood/bonnett from
rubbing against the inner fenders when it's down. The problem is that I
replaced the tops of my inner fenders, so the holes are gone. I'd like to
position them as close as possible to the original location.

Could someone please take a moment and measure the location of the center of
their bonnet buffers from a reference point, such as the cowl panel or the
bonnet support cones? I notice there's a raised boss stamped in one place
toward the aft side of the inner fenders; does one set of buffers go on
this? Finally, does the flat bottom side of the buffers go all the way down
against the fenders, or are they "raised" to some degree? 

Thanks again, Tom
CC55483L

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Feb  2 05:19:05 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 07:19:05 EST
Subject: [6pack] Bonnet buffer wedge position
Message-ID: <cd9.2379ce93.34d5b9b9@aol.com>

Joe,
It is hard to see, but are your upper ones on the raised boss?  I  guess I 
could go out to the garage and measure but it's early.  
I put mine there because it just seemed right, as the rubber actually does  
something in centering the bonnet when closed.  I have been told by a "self  
proclaimed judge" that it is not correct on the boss, but never bothered to  
verify.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 06:01:34 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 07:01:34 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $3,600
Message-ID: <001c01c8659b$c13d1080$800101df@garage.local>

The next question, which a number of you have asked, is where do i send the
money?

I'm working on it!  We'll get this answered in the next day or two.

You guys n gals are great!!!!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sat Feb  2 08:13:14 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 10:13:14 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] $3,600
In-Reply-To: <001c01c8659b$c13d1080$800101df@garage.local>
References: <001c01c8659b$c13d1080$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <F7946ABB-17D4-4C5E-8B33-DEB6F68CBBE4@mindspring.com>

I'm happy to report that the GTA is onboard for a hundred dollar  
contribution.


Ashford Little
Director Georgia Triumph Association
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6




On Feb 2, 2008, at 8:01 AM, Oliver wrote:

> The next question, which a number of you have asked, is where do i  
> send the
> money?
>
> I'm working on it!  We'll get this answered in the next day or two.
>
> You guys n gals are great!!!!!!!
>
> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From alwinbj at msn.com  Sat Feb  2 08:22:02 2008
From: alwinbj at msn.com (Brian)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 09:22:02 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Torqueing the Dog Bolt
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0801301423160.16076@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <BAY134-DAV8624F0E82BAD836080548B0310@phx.gbl>

The best way I've found is to slip a steel rod or bar through the front
drive shaft yoke so that it can jam against a frame rail while the drive
shaft turns during the tightening of the bolt. Doing so allows correct
torquing of the bolt. Trans is in gear of course, and use a rod with some
stiffness, otherwise it will just deform. Loosening is done using the same
method in reverse.

Brian J. Alwin
72 TR6

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+alwinbj=msn.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+alwinbj=msn.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert
Lang
Sent: Wednesday, January 30, 2008 1:33 PM
To: Tomislav Marincic
Cc: 6pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Torqueing the Dog Bolt

Hi,

Use brute force... a 1/2" drive impact gun with 125 psi of line pressure
will lock that puppy down at roughly the proper torque. Works every time.

Failing than, if you have the oil pan on, use the "rope trick" to keep the
motor from spinning. Just make sure that either the rocker shaft  is not
installed OR you select the proper engine phasing so you don't bend the
valves!

If the pan is off, you can jam a rag between the block and the crank so the
crank won't spin. Just don't leave and "swarf" behind.

There's lots of ways to do this job. And if you drink enough beer while
doing it, you can come up with new methods!

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as alwinbj at msn.com

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Sat Feb  2 13:26:20 2008
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 15:26:20 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Filings in GB and OD
Message-ID: <49f668fe0802021226m24afffb4heb350adb914ede97@mail.gmail.com>

Changing transmission oil, there are quite a few metal filings on the
magnetic plug.   I pulled the OD filters also, and the main screen is
pretty clear, but the high pressure filter had a lot of fine metal
particles in the mesh.   This is the first time I have changed the oil
since rebuilding both GB and OD, less than 5000 miles on it I'd say,
so I'm not sure what to expect...   Presumably some of this is
expected, but I was surprised with what I found.

I have had no problems with either GB or OD, except for a hydraulics
problem that kicked the OD into direct drive at low rpm (I found that
problem - undersized o-ring in the relief valve).   Maybe I felt a
slight vibration with OD activated and doing 65+ mph...

What's normal?   Should I be concerned?

John North

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sat Feb  2 13:29:55 2008
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 15:29:55 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Michael-engine rebuild question
Message-ID: <380-22008262202955546@earthlink.net>

I'm sorry to bomb the list (so why am I doing it, you may ask...)

Michael who asked me the engine rebuild question at the 6-pack site; I've accidently deleted your message. Can you email me directly?

Thanks, Tom


"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau

http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 15:26:04 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 16:26:04 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $4,400
Message-ID: <00b901c865ea$9d22df00$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

The Georgia Triumph Club has added a donation.  How about some of the other
clubs kicking in some $$$

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 16:41:52 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 17:41:52 -0600
Subject: [6pack] note from jonmac
Message-ID: <000801c865f5$36b19620$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Feb  2 20:34:54 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 19:34:54 -0800
Subject: [6pack] note from jonmac
References: <000801c865f5$36b19620$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <001601c86615$bdbb3c50$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Oliver,
I see the total is $4400.
Count me in for $100. to bump it to $4500.
Bob Peglow, Franklin Square, NY


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 3:41 PM
Subject: [6pack] note from jonmac


> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Feb  2 17:37:14 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org)
Date: Sat, 02 Feb 2008 19:37:14 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Looking Collar
Message-ID: <13701880.228671201999034037.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>

Maybe an obvious question but........do you put a 3/8" locking collar on a 3/8" shaft OR do you go down a size or two with the collar to ensure a good tight fit?

Thanks

Bob Danielson....babysitting the grandkids :-)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb  2 17:49:13 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 18:49:13 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $4,700
Message-ID: <002901c865fe$9b0ae460$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Sat Feb  2 19:52:09 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 21:52:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
Message-ID: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>

Where might I find an aftermarket high quality damper for my TR6?   
Current one is toast and was rebuilt not that long ago.

Thanks,


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From jimhurle at gmail.com  Sat Feb  2 20:54:18 2008
From: jimhurle at gmail.com (Jim Hurley)
Date: Sat, 2 Feb 2008 22:54:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR 6 Door Mirrors
Message-ID: <2d6b54e10802021954hdeb61d0nca5be383428575cd@mail.gmail.com>

A week or so ago there were a number of posts regarding the bullet style
door mirrors.

Frankly, a lot of folks have trouble getting the passenger side mirror to
work. Also, IMHO, they just don't look right. That round bullet thing looks
like it was borrowed from a 62 Caddy.

At one of the British TR6 specialists I long ago noted that they had TR6's
with rectangular mirrors. I thought that these looked much better on a TR6,
since the basic outline and form of the car is rectangular. A little more
research turned up the fact that these mirrors were from a TR7!!!

Check it out at http://www.racetorations.co.uk/Cars/YelTR60.jpg

Jim Hurley

1975 TR6
1999 F150
2006 Arctic Tern
2007 Pyrannha Ammo

From hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net  Sun Feb  3 07:16:17 2008
From: hrmcaleer at bellsouth.net (Hugh R McAleer)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 09:16:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] $4,400
In-Reply-To: <00b901c865ea$9d22df00$800101df@garage.local>
References: <00b901c865ea$9d22df00$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <206ECCF2FA134514BE034129BB9BDFC2@FoxconnPC>

OK so the trust is on the way to getting a car - possibly the one in 
Georgia.  If the trust does decide to go with the car pictured on Oliver's 
list I'll offer to pick it up and bring it to ATL - the first leg of it's 
journey.  Who is willing to take on the next leg?

Hugh McAleer
TR250 Owner and 4 Stags?????
Zebulon, GA
Newsletter Editor
Georgia Triumph Association



----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 5:26 PM
Subject: [6pack] $4,400


http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

The Georgia Triumph Club has added a donation.  How about some of the other 
clubs kicking in some $$$

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  3 07:31:37 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 08:31:37 -0600
Subject: [6pack] dash repair - kind of ot
Message-ID: <000d01c86671$7f5ae4e0$800101df@garage.local>

hi, all.

my dash is in good condition, but my ultra cheapskate brother in law wants to
fix the dashboard on his 20 year old pickup.

istr instructions somewhere on how to do this yourself???????

thanks.

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Feb  3 12:33:56 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 03 Feb 2008 12:33:56 -0700
Subject: [6pack] $4,400 - take pause for planning...
In-Reply-To: <206ECCF2FA134514BE034129BB9BDFC2@FoxconnPC>
References: <00b901c865ea$9d22df00$800101df@garage.local>
	<206ECCF2FA134514BE034129BB9BDFC2@FoxconnPC>
Message-ID: <47A61724.4020707@tscusa.org>

Hugh R McAleer wrote:
> OK so the trust is on the way to getting a car - possibly the one in 
> Georgia.  If the trust does decide to go with the car pictured on 
> Oliver's list I'll offer to pick it up and bring it to ATL - the first 
> leg of it's journey.  Who is willing to take on the next leg?
>
> Hugh McAleer
> TR250 Owner and 4 Stags?????
> Zebulon, GA
> Newsletter Editor
> Georgia Triumph Association
>
Woah Boys!  Take a breath.  The people doing the bulk of the work on 
this car are ISOA.

Let's let them absorb the candidates.  One is already located in 
Illinois.  Both are good candidates, and both are for purchase using 
these funds.

So hold off for a few days ...

Thanks for all the enthusiasm!.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
TriumphStag.Net Administrator
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Sun Feb  3 14:10:35 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 16:10:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR 6 Door Mirrors
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40802031310p5b44aa0fh127dc1714a9fc587@mail.gmail.com>

I also like that style mirror and have thought about switching to
them.  That isn't the same as the trapezoidal style TRF sells, is it?
(part # 622352).  Am I correct in assuming that if you switched to
that style from the bullet mirror that would have uncovered holes from
the bullet mirror that would have to be filled?

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6

>
> At one of the British TR6 specialists I long ago noted that they had TR6's
> with rectangular mirrors. I thought that these looked much better on a TR6,
> since the basic outline and form of the car is rectangular. A little more
> research turned up the fact that these mirrors were from a TR7!!!
>
> Check it out at http://www.racetorations.co.uk/Cars/YelTR60.jpg
>
> Jim Hurley

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb  3 21:11:54 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 22:11:54 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Jon Macartney Charitable Trust Donations update
Message-ID: <005201c866e4$1667b0d0$800101df@garage.local>

Hello, all.

Worked a lot on this project this weekend, and we have resolved a few things.

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

we have a location to send money to:
Sumton Network Services
3767 Forest Lane
Suite 124-335
Dallas, TX 75244-7100

This is my company which has graciously agreed to provide a safe location
where the money can be mailed.

We also have an entity to make it out to:

Red River Triumph Club

the intention of the trust is to provide a tax receipt to each of you.  we
(the red river triumph club) are a not for profit but are not a qualified tax
deductible charity.  we are going to hold the money, account for every penny,
and then, upon the approval of jonmac, forward the money to the purchasing
organization/individuals.  any residual will be used for the restoration.

This isn't perfect, but will get us going for now.  When i started this on
Friday i had no idea it would be this successful!  So let's take the momentum
and move forward.

any questions or comments feel free to email me.  I apologize for the legaleze
on the website but i was told to put it there.

thanks!

Oliver

From 6parts at charter.net  Sun Feb  3 21:47:51 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 3 Feb 2008 23:47:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Aftermarket damper for TR6
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <009801c866e9$19414460$7719b318@alan>

 These are rebuilders:

www.damperdoctor.com   530-246-2984   Ca.

www.dalemfg.com

www.winslowmfg.net   919-938-4471  Clayton, N.C.


I think Moss sells a new one, but its the 3/8 groove which is good if thats 
the one you need.
It just doesn't have markings on it.
I guess you could also change the pulley on the alternator to match, and the 
water pump.

Who rebuilt it last time.  Did they have a warranty?

Al 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb  4 09:15:34 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 08:15:34 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Ash, Listers:

	This is a burning question. When the TR6 damper gets dropped, it
breaks. It is cast iron and extremely brittle - even a chunk of debris
kicked up at the track will break them. So finding a source is getting
to be difficult. As I recall, one of the big three offers a 3/8" damper,
but no 1/2" damper is available.
	I have considered taking a Chevy Vortec V6 damper and machining
it to fit, but to date have done nothing. Anyone out there done anything
like adapt another damper to fit our straight sixes?

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ashford Little
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 6:52 PM
To: 6pack Email List; Triumph Email List
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6

Where might I find an aftermarket high quality damper for my TR6?
Current one is toast and was rebuilt not that long ago.

Thanks,


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6
_______________________________________________

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  4 09:27:35 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:27:35 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $5,050!!!!!!!!!!!
Message-ID: <002b01c8674a$db325990$800101df@garage.local>

FANTASTIC!!!!!!!!!!!!!


http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Feb  4 10:31:09 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:31:09 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041218360.26597@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

A while back, maybe 6 years ago, I asked my machinist to look into 
alternate dampeners that'll fit the crank. It turns out that there is a 
Ford V6 application which uses the same size "snout" as TR6. 
Unfortunately, I cannot recall which Ford V6 it was, but the dimensions 
were extremely close if not exact.

The purpose of my search at the time was twofold.

First, at that time, there was NO source for new dampeners for TR6, so you 
had to go used or "rebuilt". The consensus at the time was that rebuilt 
meant something between "serviceable" and useless.

Second, I was building a motor that would very likely see bursts to 7k 
rpm. So I wanted something to help tune out the known bad harmonics in the 
crank - I was looking for something like the ATI dampeners, but at a 
Summit Racing price. I actually contacted ATI at the time, and they quoted 
me a price for a custom dampener, but I had to get them crank snout 
dimensions to the .0001" of an inch. Yes, that 10-thousandths of an inch 
(which is easy to do with a micrometer. The cost was around $500, but then 
you had to figure out how to rin the belt to the alternator and water 
pump.

Bottom line - this is do-able using off the shelf stuff and some minor 
customizations (like the bottom pulley and the water pump. The alternator 
part is easy, especially if you run a Delco alt. where you can get all 
sorts of different pulleys. Richard Good has done this on his car and I'd 
love to see him produce a kit for such a setup. But the cost will be high 
because the dampener itself is not cheap... figure $1k. That works out to 
about the cost of a reasonably worked over TR6 crankshaft (balanced, 
polish journals and some other stuff), BUT once you update the dampener 
you don't have to worry about replacing the crank every time you buzz the 
motor.

Me, for one, would love to see a kit to do this. But I imagine a critical 
mass for such an endeavore would be a lot more than "one".

:-)

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb  4 11:04:56 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 12:04:56 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Fw: [TR] Jon Macartney Charitable Trust Donations update
Message-ID: <000c01c86758$7499f950$800101df@garage.local>

Thank you , Tom!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "THOMAS FANSHER" <tfansher at comcast.net>
To: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 8:22 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Jon Macartney Charitable Trust Donations update


> Oliver, thanks for doing this for the Charitable Trust and Triumphs in 
> general.
> I was directing the bank to send the check to the Dallas address, when I 
> realized that I could do more. So I made the check out for $250 instead of 
> the hundred I had pledged.
> I'm sure we'll need the extra money and if not, it will go to a worthy 
> cause.  Hopefully, others who can will also give a little more.
> (Not to make anyone feel guilty - just an idea)
> Thanks again for your work and taking charge.
> Tom Fansher
> 60 TR3A  -- coming back slowly
> 61 TR3A  -- awesome driver
> 62 TR4  -- will I ever have the time
> 73 Stag -- a lot of fun

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Feb  4 11:18:28 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 10:18:28 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041218360.26597@isis.mit.edu>
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041218360.26597@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802041018j137cf707t2fc36f7a33656a1f@mail.gmail.com>

need one right now! would love to have an affordable kit.

On Feb 4, 2008 9:31 AM, Robert Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> A while back, maybe 6 years ago, I asked my machinist to look into
> alternate dampeners that'll fit the crank. It turns out that there is a
> Ford V6 application which uses the same size "snout" as TR6.
> Unfortunately, I cannot recall which Ford V6 it was, but the dimensions
> were extremely close if not exact.
>
> The purpose of my search at the time was twofold.
>
> First, at that time, there was NO source for new dampeners for TR6, so you
> had to go used or "rebuilt". The consensus at the time was that rebuilt
> meant something between "serviceable" and useless.
>
> Second, I was building a motor that would very likely see bursts to 7k
> rpm. So I wanted something to help tune out the known bad harmonics in the
> crank - I was looking for something like the ATI dampeners, but at a
> Summit Racing price. I actually contacted ATI at the time, and they quoted
> me a price for a custom dampener, but I had to get them crank snout
> dimensions to the .0001" of an inch. Yes, that 10-thousandths of an inch
> (which is easy to do with a micrometer. The cost was around $500, but then
> you had to figure out how to rin the belt to the alternator and water
> pump.
>
> Bottom line - this is do-able using off the shelf stuff and some minor
> customizations (like the bottom pulley and the water pump. The alternator
> part is easy, especially if you run a Delco alt. where you can get all
> sorts of different pulleys. Richard Good has done this on his car and I'd
> love to see him produce a kit for such a setup. But the cost will be high
> because the dampener itself is not cheap... figure $1k. That works out to
> about the cost of a reasonably worked over TR6 crankshaft (balanced,
> polish journals and some other stuff), BUT once you update the dampener
> you don't have to worry about replacing the crank every time you buzz the
> motor.
>
> Me, for one, would love to see a kit to do this. But I imagine a critical
> mass for such an endeavore would be a lot more than "one".
>
> :-)
>
> rml
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 12:00:42 2008
From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:00:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] [TR]  Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0802041018j137cf707t2fc36f7a33656a1f@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <876769.16274.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

Hi Chuck, Vance;

I have been told by Rick Patton that a Cadillac Northstar balancer will fit the
TR6 crank - he's using it for his supercharged TR6 engine - it does mean
switching over to a serpentine belt however.



Raymond L. Hatfield
'65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance"
'73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" 
Little Rock, AR

Come visit the Michelotti TR Website:
http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Feb  4 12:00:37 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:00:37 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041321520.26597@isis.mit.edu>
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0332DE3B@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041218360.26597@isis.mit.edu>
	<8cbd782d0802041020i462ab4b0qc40b987ae2eae5f1@mail.gmail.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041321520.26597@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802041100n37d83c17n83382035b91c9648@mail.gmail.com>

Found a couple of websites that might help.
One has several dampers for the for 4-6 cyl engines:
http://www.bhjdynamics.com/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=6_39

the other has mandrals that bolt to the damner and v-bely pullies that go on
the mandrel
http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/csDh.html#frd
The secret is to find the correct sizes.  Still probably a $700 proposition.

Chuck

On Feb 4, 2008 10:24 AM, Robert Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Mon, 4 Feb 2008, Chuck Arnold wrote:
>
> > bob,
> > did the ford part have a v-belt pulley, or is it just a damper with no
> > pulley?
>
> I never did see a part. But I suspect that is was just the dampener.
>
> All I can recall for detail was that it is some motor that is used in
> racing and the machinist implied that it was off the shelf. That's the key
> to making the part a lot less $$$$.
>
> I'll dig around and see what I can figure out. The machinist retired not
> long after we figured all this out.
>
> :-(
>
> I really liked working with that guy.
>
> rml
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
>
>


-- 
Chuck Arnold

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Feb  4 12:11:09 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 19:11:09 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
References: <A6AB8F35-3E5F-490B-A792-E3338EEA541D@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B015D9BF4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Having just had my damper rebuilt by Damper Doctor it's a bit disconcerting to
find out that the rebuilt units are falling apart.. Is this what is going on
or did something else happen in this case ?. Anybody with anything good to say
about rebuilt dampers ?

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ashford
Little
Sent: Saturday, February 02, 2008 9:52 PM
To: 6pack Email List; Triumph Email List
Subject: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6

Where might I find an aftermarket high quality damper for my TR6?
Current one is toast and was rebuilt not that long ago.

Thanks,


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Feb  4 12:20:32 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 11:20:32 -0800
Subject: [6pack] dash repair - kind of ot
In-Reply-To: "Oliver" <sumton@sbcglobal.net>'s message of Sun, 3 Feb
	2008 08:31:37 -0600
Message-ID: <20840-47A76580-2970@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>

O---Instructions come with these repair kits. Can't say much for the one
I used, some years back, as the dash vinyl cracks continued to enlarge.
It was a wasted effort  The proper repair included removal of the
windscreen frame and wood dash, among other things that looked
formidable back then.  . 
 It shoudn't be quite the job on a truck, given that one can't remove
the windscreen frame....
IF kits ae available.

Dick

 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net(Oliver) Date: 
hi, all. 

my dash is in good condition, but my ultra cheapskate brother in law
wants to fix the dashboard on his 20 year old pickup. 
istr instructions somewhere on how to do this yourself??????? 
thanks. 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb  4 14:23:45 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 13:23:45 -0800
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Aftermarket damper for TR6
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0335FE3E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Atlanta Imports (www.atlantaimports.com) offers rebuilt ones off
the shelf for $169. There is a $100 core charge, however.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Ashford Little [mailto:70tr6 at mindspring.com]
Sent: Monday, February 04, 2008 9:05 AM
To: Navarrette, Vance
Subject: Re: [6pack] Aftermarket damper for TR6

APT sells one.  Don't know any details yet other than cost, which is
$200.  I'll report when I can.


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Mon Feb  4 14:52:37 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 13:52:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0335FE3E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <172732.53111.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Sorry to chime in late on this string. The flexible material in my damper is looking cracked and flaking. I fear I'l need one soon. Does anyone have experience with these two sources mentioned recently?
   
  "Atlanta Imports (www.atlantaimports.com) offers rebuilt ones off
the shelf for $169. There is a $100 core charge, however."
   
  "APT sells one. Don't know any details yet other than cost, which is
$200. I'll report when I can."
  
Jim

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Feb  4 14:57:56 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 16:57:56 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <172732.53111.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <172732.53111.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041653300.26597@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 4 Feb 2008, Jim Jones wrote:

> Sorry to chime in late on this string. The flexible material in my damper is looking cracked and flaking. I fear I'l need one soon. Does anyone have experience with these two sources mentioned recently?
>
>  "Atlanta Imports (www.atlantaimports.com) offers rebuilt ones off
> the shelf for $169. There is a $100 core charge, however."
>
>  "APT sells one. Don't know any details yet other than cost, which is
> $200. I'll report when I can."

I exchanged a message with another list member earlier today on this topic 
- off list, but the essence was that I think I bought one of these from 
APT and it had a Moss part number on it.

If you go to APT, you might want to verify the source.

I can verify the source if needed.

> Jim

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From fasttrs at mindspring.com  Mon Feb  4 15:40:26 2008
From: fasttrs at mindspring.com (Mike Munson)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 16:40:26 -0600
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0335FE3E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0335FE3E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <001901c8677e$f05cc150$6401a8c0@mikek6u8bickf2>

I have one of those from Happy and they have no timing marks. Ashford, Don
Ewing can have yours rebuilt for you. Talk to Puffy.

Tiger

From samuelsma at aol.com  Mon Feb  4 16:22:16 2008
From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 04 Feb 2008 18:22:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Tahiti blue TR6 for sale
Message-ID: <8CA359BEA100656-C68-3E47@FWM-D15.sysops.aol.com>

Listers:

Well, I finally got the Tahiti blue car running really well, after over 2 years of dealing with carburetion issues.? The idle is still a little unstable, but the car runs very strongly and smoothly and the problem with plug fouling is truly gone.? The car has been in the shop for 5 out of the last 6 months, and about half the time I have owned it.

So now I should enjoy it, right?? Well, if it doesn't sell I may do just that for the indefinite future, but I have purchased a 2005 Mazdaspeed MX5 (this is a turbo Miata with lots of factory upgrades) with 5900 miles that may be enjoyable like the Triumph without some of the service issues.? Also, it has A/C, airbags, a stereo, a factory warranty, etc. etc.? The story is that I saw the turbo Miata on Ebay when my 6 was stuck (indefinitely, it seemed) in the shop and I just lost patience with the whole vintage car thing and bought the Mazda.? I figured that a 5900 mile car at the right price wasn't going to last, so I grabbed it.? I fully expected to get the 6 back and to have persistent running/fouling problems.? Lo and behold, the car is really fixed now.? My deal with my wife is that I need to sell one of the cars, and she would strongly prefer that I sell the Triumph, as long as I can get an acceptable price.

Fundamentally, I have one guy in greater Miami who can fix my Triumph and he does superb work, but it takes weeks or months to get anything done and getting to and from the shop requires my wife to drive behind me for 45 minutes so I can have a ride home...well, you get the picture.

Now, I haven't actually picked up the Mazda in Tennessee yet.? That trip is scheduled for 2 weeks from now.? If the TR6? doesn't sell on Ebay and I actually prefer it to the Mazda when I get to drive the thing, maybe I'll sell the newer car instead.? But in the mean time, please feel free to check out my Ebay listing 190196388938.? I think it is an attractive combination of vintage and upgrade philosophies.

Michael
'76 Tahiti blue
CF 57044U
Miami Beach, FL



________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com

From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Mon Feb  4 19:05:57 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Mon, 4 Feb 2008 21:05:57 -0500
Subject: [6pack] FW:  Aftermarket damper for TR6
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041653300.26597@isis.mit.edu>
References: <172732.53111.qm@web33507.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802041653300.26597@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <274B4BF9-C33F-46C7-B282-85A950B66C02@mindspring.com>

I'm still awaiting word on the damper from APT.  My mechanic said that  
it's not a Moss part.  We haven't seen it yet though as APT didn't  
have one in stock.


Ashford Little
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6




On Feb 4, 2008, at 4:57 PM, Robert Lang wrote:

> On Mon, 4 Feb 2008, Jim Jones wrote:
>
>> Sorry to chime in late on this string. The flexible material in my  
>> damper is looking cracked and flaking. I fear I'l need one soon.  
>> Does anyone have experience with these two sources mentioned  
>> recently?
>>
>> "Atlanta Imports (www.atlantaimports.com) offers rebuilt ones off
>> the shelf for $169. There is a $100 core charge, however."
>>
>> "APT sells one. Don't know any details yet other than cost, which is
>> $200. I'll report when I can."
>
> I exchanged a message with another list member earlier today on this  
> topic
> - off list, but the essence was that I think I bought one of these  
> from
> APT and it had a Moss part number on it.
>
> If you go to APT, you might want to verify the source.
>
> I can verify the source if needed.
>
>> Jim
>
> regards,
> rml

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb  5 09:45:54 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 11:45:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Diff Mounting Stud
Message-ID: <000501c86816$95b0f2b0$210110ac@bobspc>

Is there anything unique about the differential mounting stud (Moss #
320-355) that puts the cost at almost $20 each? It appears to be a steel rod
of a specific length that's been threaded on one end. It doesn't even look
like it's Grade 8 (that goldie color that the bolts and nuts have). I'm
debating the "build versus buy" repair for my front mounts. Any help would
be appreciated.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.20/1259 - Release Date: 2/4/2008
8:42 PM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Feb  5 09:56:17 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 08:56:17 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Diff Mounting Stud
In-Reply-To: <000501c86816$95b0f2b0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000501c86816$95b0f2b0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03360511@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Bob:

	The gold color of grade 8 is yellow zinc plating, which is
intended to give a small amount of corrosion protection without
affecting the underlying metallurgy (Some plating processes degrade the
strength of the substrate, e.g. chrome plating anything dramatically
degrades the strength of the substrate)
	Grade 8 stuff is heat treated, and so is much stronger and
welding would destroy the strength of the material. THEREFORE, the Moss
pins must simply be mild steel, as they are intended to be welded into
place. I would say that making your own is a safe bet. 1030 steel or
better would seem to be a good choice.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, February 05, 2008 8:46 AM
To: Triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Diff Mounting Stud

Is there anything unique about the differential mounting stud (Moss #
320-355) that puts the cost at almost $20 each? It appears to be a steel
rod
of a specific length that's been threaded on one end. It doesn't even
look
like it's Grade 8 (that goldie color that the bolts and nuts have). I'm
debating the "build versus buy" repair for my front mounts. Any help
would
be appreciated.

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From bmiles at intinfo.com  Tue Feb  5 11:20:01 2008
From: bmiles at intinfo.com (Bruce Miles)
Date: Tue, 5 Feb 2008 13:20:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <001801c86823$b9354800$5202a8c0@huntington.com>

Please put me down for $100 and let me know where to send the money.

 

Thanks

 

Bruce

 

 

Bruce Miles

Editor, Buckeye Triumphs Newsletter

72 TR6

68 TR250

2058 Welsh Hills Road
Granville, Ohio 43023
740-334-3510 (cell)

bmiles at intinfo.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb  6 11:19:54 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 13:19:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Differential  Mount Repair
Message-ID: <000001c868ec$e0f7dcd0$210110ac@bobspc>

On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside the existing differential
mounting bracket OR do they butt up to the sides of them? I guess the only
difference would be where the welding bead was laid. If the bracket butts to
the side of the mount, the bead would end up more of top and would that
interfere with the differential bushings? I don't think so but wanted to
check with the experts.

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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8:57 PM

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  6 11:31:37 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 10:31:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Differential  Mount Repair
In-Reply-To: <000001c868ec$e0f7dcd0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <407539.77700.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi Bob,

Mine went inside.  I took the template off vtr & had
some fabricated....I would say you'd want them "just"
a bit smaller than the mount

Cheers,

Todd

--- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

> On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside
> the existing differential
> mounting bracket OR do they butt up to the sides of
> them? I guess the only
> difference would be where the welding bead was laid.
> If the bracket butts to
> the side of the mount, the bead would end up more of
> top and would that
> interfere with the differential bushings? I don't
> think so but wanted to
> check with the experts.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> 



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb  6 12:09:47 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 14:09:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Differential  Mount Repair
In-Reply-To: <407539.77700.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <000001c868ec$e0f7dcd0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<407539.77700.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001501c868f3$da60fcb0$210110ac@bobspc>

Todd,
That's interesting as I took the template off of VTR too and that had them
butting up against the sides of my mounts. My guess is that it all depends
on how "accurately" the mounts themselves are welded in place.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Todd Bermudez [mailto:red_tr250 at yahoo.com] 
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 1:32 PM
To: Bob Danielson; 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Mount Repair

Hi Bob,

Mine went inside.  I took the template off vtr & had some fabricated....I
would say you'd want them "just"
a bit smaller than the mount

Cheers,

Todd

--- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

> On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside the existing 
> differential mounting bracket OR do they butt up to the sides of them? 
> I guess the only difference would be where the welding bead was laid.
> If the bracket butts to
> the side of the mount, the bead would end up more of top and would 
> that interfere with the differential bushings? I don't think so but 
> wanted to check with the experts.
> 
> Thanks
> 
> Bob
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> 



 
____________________________________________________________________________
________
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know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 


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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.20/1261 - Release Date: 2/5/2008
8:57 PM
 

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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.20/1261 - Release Date: 2/5/2008
8:57 PM

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb  6 12:59:09 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 11:59:09 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Differential  Mount Repair
In-Reply-To: <001501c868f3$da60fcb0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <362678.87114.qm@web43144.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Personally, I'd put them "in" the mount rather than on
the side...grind the plates down ever so slightly, but
that's me.

Either way you slice it, make sure you have some sort
of hole for moisture to get out around the bottom
corners.

Cheers,

Todd

--- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
wrote:

> Todd,
> That's interesting as I took the template off of VTR
> too and that had them
> butting up against the sides of my mounts. My guess
> is that it all depends
> on how "accurately" the mounts themselves are welded
> in place.
> 
> 
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
> 
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Todd Bermudez [mailto:red_tr250 at yahoo.com] 
> Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 1:32 PM
> To: Bob Danielson; 'list Triumph';
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Mount Repair
> 
> Hi Bob,
> 
> Mine went inside.  I took the template off vtr & had
> some fabricated....I
> would say you'd want them "just"
> a bit smaller than the mount
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Todd
> 
> --- Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> wrote:
> 
> > On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside
> the existing 
> > differential mounting bracket OR do they butt up
> to the sides of them? 
> > I guess the only difference would be where the
> welding bead was laid.
> > If the bracket butts to
> > the side of the mount, the bead would end up more
> of top and would 
> > that interfere with the differential bushings? I
> don't think so but 
> > wanted to check with the experts.
> > 
> > Thanks
> > 
> > Bob
> > 
> > Bob Danielson
> > 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
> > 
> 
> 
> 
>  
> 


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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Feb  6 14:45:18 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 13:45:18 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Differential  Mount Repair
In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message
	of Wed, 6 Feb 2008 13:19:54 -0500
Message-ID: <13225-47AA2A6E-411@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>

Bob---The ones TRF sells have a series of holes in them. This makes it
easier to manoever the plates into position prior to the final welding.
They just barely fit inside of the diff mounts on my car. No trimming
was necessary. A tack weld (after removing the factory paint) at corner
positions guaranteed a nice job when finished..

Some weld spatter could end up at the rubber
mount locations. These can be ground away, if large enough to interfere.
Otherwise, these spatters will just merge into the rubber. It's good to
repaint the area, when finished. (Another reason for these large
holes?!)

I did this reinforcement because some of you guys convinced me I was on
borrowed time!. Maybe so, but the mounts were still sound beforehand.

Dick

 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielsont

On a TR6, do the re-enforcing brackets fit inside the existing
differential mounting bracket OR do they butt up to the sides of them? I
guess the only difference would be where the welding bead was laid. If
the bracket butts to the side of the mount, the bead would end up more
of top and would that interfere with the differential bushings? I don't
think so but wanted to check with the experts.
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG.
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2/5/2008
8:57 PM ______________________________________

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Feb  6 19:12:06 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 6 Feb 2008 18:12:06 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Differential  Mount Repair
In-Reply-To: <407539.77700.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <000001c868ec$e0f7dcd0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<407539.77700.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03384352@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Todd:

	FYI, it is easy to make your own. I thought TRF prices were more
than a little high.

	Bought some 16ga weld plate from the hardware store for a few
dollars, made a cardboard template from the actual diff mount, then
transferred it to the weld plate. Cut the plates using a hacksaw, used a
grinder to smooth the edges. Welded them in. Success!
	Admittedly, the TRF plates are nicely made, and VERY robust.
However, not many people will be looking at my home made plates, and
they will probably out last me.

	Cheers,

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Todd Bermudez
Sent: Wednesday, February 06, 2008 10:32 AM
To: Bob Danielson; 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Differential Mount Repair

Hi Bob,

Mine went inside.  I took the template off vtr & had
some fabricated....I would say you'd want them "just"
a bit smaller than the mount

Cheers,

Todd

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Feb  7 10:40:47 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 12:40:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Hemmings Article
Message-ID: <000101c869b0$94736450$210110ac@bobspc>

Hemmings has an article on the money that the List raised to purchase the
Stag http://tinyurl.com/252ljq

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.19.21/1263 - Release Date: 2/6/2008
8:14 PM

From acs25m at swbell.net  Thu Feb  7 11:56:01 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 10:56:01 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] starter relay location
Message-ID: <15977.48879.qm@web81603.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi all, I own a TR250 that I need help with. I had to replace the sheet metal battery box due to a previous owner repairing rusted metal with fiberglass and a whole lot of body putty! I took a lot of pictures during the tear down with my digital camera but the files have somehow become corrupted and won't open. Could some one please email me a picture of the starter relay location and how its attached. I would appreciate it. You can send the pictures off list to  acs25m at swbell.net.
  Thank you
  John Maneke

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb  7 17:10:49 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 00:10:49 -0000
Subject: [6pack] [Spits] [TR] Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <01ed01c869e7$0fd68ce0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Darrell Floyd wrote:
> That's great and now we have a UK Spec Spitfire donation to be raffled  off
> in CA!  Now that's News! Are you kidding me! I'm telling all  now that one will
> get some action from yours truly. What was that about the  beauty of those
> twin SU's?  OH My this could get serious.

*Could* get serious????? I've been serious about this event for the better part of two years in 
terms of planning it :::)))

For the record Darrell, the original plan was to raffle the Spitfire in California but that event 
has been brought forward to May 2009 where the draw will take place on Standard-Triumph Marque Day 
in the UK. Just to stop any hares running, tickets for the Spitfire raffle are restricted only to 
the UK and Eire in view of the fact it's a late model car and we gotta have something for the guys 
who can't come. The whole of the USA and Canada will get the chance to buy raffle tickets for the 
Stag and their availability will be announced quite soon.

Jonmac 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb  7 17:15:44 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 18:15:44 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local>

as usual, the news medai gets it wrong <grin>

it took about 48 hrs . . .

gee.  my chance to be famous and i don't even get a mention . . . ;-)

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR250Driver at aol.com>
To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; <triumphs at autox.team.net>; 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <spitfires at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 07, 2008 4:43 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] Hemmings Article


> In a message dated 2/7/2008 12:41:27 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
> 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:
>
> Hemmings  has an article on the money that the List raised to purchase the
> Stag  http://tinyurl.com/252ljq

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb  7 17:23:52 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 00:23:52 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans-AmeriCan Charity Drive 2009
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
Message-ID: <020401c869e8$e2bf5be0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Listers

We're seventeen months out from the start of this crazy drive I'm planning on doing - but the event 
actually GETS UNDERWAY this coming weekend.

As some may be aware, next Sunday is Triumph Spares Day in the UK and I know some listers are on 
their way to the UK as I write. Glenn Merrell is one of them and Paul Higley from Red River Triumph 
is another. So, to celebrate the start of the 2008 season, the UK spec Spitfire will be on the 
Triumph Sports Six Stand at Stoneleigh, sporting appropriate Triumph Trans-AmeriCa signage (and 
polish) to hopefully make as many people as possible aware of the launch of raffle ticket sales for 
this stupendously restored car.

I went down to my garage this evening to make sure it was hale and hearty and decided to start her 
in readiness for her trip on the trailer. Wriggled inside with difficulty, inserted key, pulled out 
choke and twisted to start. Er unk, er unk er unk.

I'll be fitting a new battery tomorrow - and possibly a new alternator over the weekend. Maybe some 
benevolent Stoneleigh trader may care to donate one? :)

Jonmac

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb  7 20:07:03 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 7 Feb 2008 21:07:03 -0600
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com>
	<00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local>
	<47ABC675.4030702@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <000f01c869ff$aefca8f0$800101df@garage.local>

http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/wp-content/uploads/2008/01/latest-route-01.
JPG


  In the Hemmings article Bob Danielson sent, the map of the drive route
throughout
  the US and Canada was about as big as a postage stamp... Is there a larger
version
  available somewhere?

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Feb  8 06:43:16 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 13:43:16 -0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Hemmings Article
References: <bbe.224cf8cc.34dce3a4@aol.com><00d401c869e8$512d46b0$800101df@garage.local><47ABC675.4030702@maine.rr.com>
	<000f01c869ff$aefca8f0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <025201c86a58$8f8280e0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Look at the website!

Jonmac

> http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

> JPG
> 
> 
>  In the Hemmings article Bob Danielson sent, the map of the drive route
> throughout
>  the US and Canada was about as big as a postage stamp... Is there a larger
> version
>  available somewhere?
> _______________________________________________
> 
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> 
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> 
> http://www.team.net/archive
> 
> You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com

From caryhenry at hotmail.com  Fri Feb  8 13:06:10 2008
From: caryhenry at hotmail.com (Cary Henry)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 15:06:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Top Replacement
Message-ID: <BAY130-W28D71495210A119451D377AE2F0@phx.gbl>

I will be replacing the top on my 76 this weekend, and was wondering if anyone
has any writeups on this.  I saw the write up on the VTR website, but without
pictures it is pretty difficult to follow.  I know there used to be one on the
sterlingbritishmotoring website, but it is no longer there.

Thanks,
Cary
_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Feb  8 13:28:49 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 20:28:49 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Top Replacement
In-Reply-To: <BAY130-W28D71495210A119451D377AE2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY130-W28D71495210A119451D377AE2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D658B8F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I forwarded Cary (not Henry !, sorry about that)  a reasonably complete copy
of the soft top installation info salvaged from the Buckeye website.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cary
Henry
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 3:06 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Top Replacement

I will be replacing the top on my 76 this weekend, and was wondering if
anyone
has any writeups on this.  I saw the write up on the VTR website, but without
pictures it is pretty difficult to follow.  I know there used to be one on
the
sterlingbritishmotoring website, but it is no longer there.

Thanks,
Cary

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb  8 13:25:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 14:25:20 -0600
Subject: [6pack] hello
Message-ID: <014201c86a91$5b73d860$800101df@garage.local>

Roy Congrove - please contact me off list

thanks

From grant at bowtie6.com  Fri Feb  8 14:51:47 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 16:51:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Top Replacement
In-Reply-To: <BAY130-W28D71495210A119451D377AE2F0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY130-W28D71495210A119451D377AE2F0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000601c86a9c$ce3c2630$6ab47290$@com>

This might have been covered in the article (I don't have one, so if I am
repeating something forgive me) but I found a piece of the chalk that
seamstresses use to mark cloth really comes in handy.  You can use that to
mark the center of the top in relation to the windshield header.  After a
mark has been made, it can very easily be removed with a little warm water.

I also used 3M adhesives, since that is what I have read the 'pros' use.
When applying the adhesive to the windshield header piece, I made sure I had
a nice application of contact cement and then used a small disposable brush
to ensure an even distribution.  This prevented a mess from happening and
also makes an even application which can be hard to do with the spray can.  

The trick is to take your time.  Measure several times and this should
ensure a good fit.  

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Cary
Henry
Sent: Friday, February 08, 2008 15:06
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Top Replacement

I will be replacing the top on my 76 this weekend, and was wondering if
anyone
has any writeups on this.  I saw the write up on the VTR website, but
without
pictures it is pretty difficult to follow.  I know there used to be one on
the
sterlingbritishmotoring website, but it is no longer there.

Thanks,
Cary

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Feb  8 16:03:07 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 23:03:07 -0000
Subject: [6pack] [Spits] [TR] Hemmings Article
References: <d0c.26f09887.34de110a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <028201c86aa6$c4d7c6d0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Darrell Floyd wrote:

AH Sucks John, I always wanted one of the "Rest of the World" Spitfires.  Come
to think about it I want a R.O.W. TR6 too.

You mean the car with petrol injection, of course. The faster noisier version
:) Sure, still plenty around though for a good one, best budget for spending
upwards of US$16k.

Throw in a UK Spec TR7 with the beauty of the Twin SU fitment and absence of
all the smog equipment. It just ain't fair that we have the so called Federal
Versions of all the cool TR's. However,  I'm good with the Stag in CA, that's
fine.

Was there a UK Stag Version?

Was there a UK Stag version, the man says;):):)  Sure was Darrell. Considering
the car was originally designed for the US market but failed to 'take off' (no
need to go there) we carried on building 'em here and built 25,000 odd. The
R.O.W. version had a bit more umph than the Federal car with around 145BHp on
tap. Good ones here are now commanding prices upwards of US$20k.

Cheers, Jonmac

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Fri Feb  8 22:45:44 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Fri, 8 Feb 2008 21:45:44 -0800
Subject: [6pack] B pillar help needed
Message-ID: <20080209054722.B57BF18763E@autox.team.net>

Hi everyone.
My TR250 is well into its body work. The body shop has removed the rocker
panels and is ready to install the new ones. Unfortunately, some additional
pinhole rust was found at the bottom curved part of the b pillar on both the
driver's and passenger's side. New b pillars run at least $285 each. Does
anyone out there have a parts vehicle they're willing to sell part of the b
pillars, assuming those are without rust? This part should be the same as a
TR4 and TR6 since all of the doors are the same. I really only need the very
bottom curved section for the repair to be easily made without much
fabrication. Thanks in advance for any help.

 

Follow this link to view the latest photos.  You may have to piece the
address together if the system chops it up.

http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.7dqo66av
<http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.7dqo66av&x=0&y=jy2hf7>
&x=0&y=jy2hf7


With the removal of the rockers, mouse nests were found on both sides.  The
edge of the floor pan was sanded down to bare metal and then primered before
it is covered back up with the rocker.  The shop has hand stripped all of
the body panels and they will be media blasted on the edges and seams prior
to the primer stage.  

Andy Packard

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sat Feb  9 07:32:58 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 09:32:58 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Diff Mount Repair
Message-ID: <000001c86b28$acbe0fa0$210110ac@bobspc>

The other day I asked if the TRF repair brackets went inside or alongside
the diff mounts. The answer was a resounding 50/50% that they're a perfect
fit inside/alongside!  For some of you they fit perfectly inside the mount
and for others it was a perfect fit alongside the mount. That made some
sense when I found that each of my mounts were a little different dependent
on how it was originally welded in place. I used the gusset template from
the VTR site and ended up custom grinding each one to fit a specific side of
each bracket. Probably overkill but what the heck. I had Tim's Portable
Welding come to the house and the results are here
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/DiffMounts.htm

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Sat Feb  9 07:35:27 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 09:35:27 EST
Subject: [6pack] B pillar help needed
Message-ID: <d22.1b32ce0c.34df142f@cs.com>

Andy,

Oddly, a TR-250 just followed me home this month. Too long of a story here, 
but it was an Arizonal car for a very long time.

If I can help, I will. Let's talk

Regards,   Joe A

> Hi everyone.
> My TR250 is well into its body work. The body shop has removed the rocker
> panels and is ready to install the new ones. Unfortunately, some additional
> pinhole rust was found at the bottom curved part of the b pillar on both the
> driver's and passenger's side. New b pillars run at least $285 each. Does
> anyone out there have a parts vehicle they're willing to sell part of the b
> pillars, assuming those are without rust? This part should be the same as a
> TR4 and TR6 since all of the doors are the same. I really only need the very
> bottom curved section for the repair to be easily made without much
> fabrication. Thanks in advance for any help.
> 
> 
> 
> 

   </HTML>

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sat Feb  9 09:27:54 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 11:27:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Top Replacement
In-Reply-To: <000601c86a9c$ce3c2630$6ab47290$@com>
References: <BAY130-W28D71495210A119451D377AE2F0@phx.gbl>
	<000601c86a9c$ce3c2630$6ab47290$@com>
Message-ID: <47ADD48A.6000005@roadrunner.com>

Something I do that a lot of people don't agree with is to NOT pull the 
top too tight on initial installation. I believe my tops are easier to 
put up after a year or two after they have shrunk a little. It is hard 
thing to get yourself to do the first time, since the top doesn't have a 
'drum tight' feel at first, and may show the folds a little for a while, 
but experience has taught me this lesson.
YMMV as always.

Jim Franks

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sat Feb  9 09:46:07 2008
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 11:46:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Searching for TR6 seat part
Message-ID: <380-220082691646762@earthlink.net>

Hello,

If anyone can help me locate the following part, to fit the 1970-1972 TR6 driver's seat, I'd be extremely grateful.

LH Seat seat-back support wire, lower wire, outer. TR6 1970-72 (the seat with fixed headrests)

Part #816077, TRF green catalog page 442, GH41

Photos: http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/IMGP3147.jpg
http://i268.photobucket.com/albums/jj14/TR250Tom/IMGP3148.jpg

As you might know, the 70-72 TR6 seats have a total of 16 bent wires supporting the side bolsters, and no 2 are alike (though each wire on each seat has a mirror-image partner on the other seat). One of mine is broken, and broke again after I had it welded. 

I have calls into Triumph Rescue and Triumphs Only. If anyone has a complete seat for sale, I'd be glad to buy that, as long as the wires can be confirmed OK.

Plan C is a visit to an upholsterer, as some of you have previously suggested.

Thanks for your help,

Tom 
CC55483L


http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sat Feb  9 09:51:18 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sat, 09 Feb 2008 11:51:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Diff Mount Repair
In-Reply-To: <000001c86b28$acbe0fa0$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c86b28$acbe0fa0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <47ADDA06.20002@roadrunner.com>

Looks good Bob! That guy did a really nice job. I never get nice looking 
welds upside down.

Jim Franks

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sat Feb  9 12:33:18 2008
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 14:33:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <380-22008269193318937@earthlink.net>

Al,

There was a bad batch of countershafts/layshafts a few years ago that wore out quickly. I would wager both TRF and Moss have good ones now, but don't buy one that's been on the shelf at some vendor for a while.

IN MY OPINION, part of the problem is that the later transmissions use "caged" roller bearings on the countershaft. These come with their own bearing surface, so when you replace the bearing, it rides on a new piece of metal, not on the shaft itself. If you use the older style "open" bearings, however, they ride directly on the shaft, so a soft shaft will get chewed up in short order. Perhaps the manufacturer that made the batch of soft layshafts presumed we would all be using caged bearings?

The good news is the later-style caged bearings can be used in early transmissions, making the layshaft choice less critical. Since I'm an obsessive-compulsive personality in training, I used a hardened layshaft that had been machined to accept a third bearing, like the 2500 Police sedans supposedly use. 50% more bearing area, plus caged bearings, so if the shaft was soft it shouldn't be a high wear item.

Good Luck, Tom


"Beware of all enterprises that require new clothes" Henry David Thoreau

http://www.triumphowners.com/735

From jzagami at si.rr.com  Sat Feb  9 13:20:47 2008
From: jzagami at si.rr.com (joseph zagami)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 15:20:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] RE seat wires
Message-ID: <001101c86b59$418389a0$6600a8c0@Bigboy>

Hello,
         I recently completed my interior and broke one during the
restoration. It was my understanding that this part is no longer available. I
bought metal at the home center(Lowes) and fabricated a duplicate using the
original as a model. You can do it if you have patience.
         Regards,
                       JZ
GOD BLESS AMERICA

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Feb  9 16:27:05 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 18:27:05 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <c81.20236ca4.34df90c9@aol.com>

Hmmm, maybe I am wrong here.  In the history of the TR tranny three  types of 
countershaft bearings were used.  Needle, Shell, and Caged.   I believe that 
the needle is the earliest and that is the loose bearing that  needs to be 
held in place with grease while the tranny is assembled.  Next  is shell bearings 
in which the bearing rides on the shaft and the outer surface  of the bearing 
is completely enclosed.  The later is caged bearings which,  look like a 
cage, in which the bearing in exposed in the inner and outer  surface.  The names 
are very descriptive.
I am under the impression that all ride directly on  the countershaft.  My 
experience has been with early trannys;  therefore needle and shell but am 
familiar with caged  bearings. 
 
If this is wrong help me out here.
 
Thanks 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net  Sat Feb  9 17:13:42 2008
From: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net (Tomislav Marincic)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 19:13:42 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <380-22008201001342375@earthlink.net>

David, 

I'm sure it's me that's being imprecise and throwing around the wrong term.

I was referring to the bearing that TRF refers to as "press-fit needle bearings", or that I've usually called "closed-cage" bearings. To be specific, Roadster Factory part#126862 is a bearing that runs on its own bearing surface, whereas #150339 is what I would call "open-cage", which run on the layshaft. I thought one was early type and one late-TR6, but I guess I'm not so sure.

I'm not familiar with the needle type in TR's, is this a TR4 or earlier application?

Cheers, Tom


----- Original Message ----- 
From: 
To: tomislav.marincic at earthlink.net;6pack at autox.team.net;6parts at charter.net
Sent: 2/9/2008 6:27:13 PM 
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft


Hmmm, maybe I am wrong here.  In the history of the TR tranny three types of countershaft bearings were used.  Needle, Shell, and Caged.  I believe that the needle is the earliest and that is the loose bearing that needs to be held in place with grease while the tranny is assembled.  Next is shell bearings in which the bearing rides on the shaft and the outer surface of the bearing is completely enclosed.  The later is caged bearings which, look like a cage, in which the bearing in exposed in the inner and outer surface.  The names are very descriptive.
I am under the impression that all ride directly on the countershaft.  My experience has been with early trannys; therefore needle and shell but am familiar with caged bearings. 

If this is wrong help me out here.

Thanks 

David Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO






Who's never won? Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Feb  9 17:27:55 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 19:27:55 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <d08.2a7f19be.34df9f0b@aol.com>

Needle bearings are the loose bearings and I thing they are reserved for TR  
2 and early 3 but went to the shell type in later 3.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From Btp44 at aol.com  Sat Feb  9 19:20:20 2008
From: Btp44 at aol.com (Btp44 at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 21:20:20 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <c84.2271f340.34dfb964@aol.com>

I think the closed cage (drawn cup) bearings started with the all synchro TR4 
trans. Recently I replaced a countershaft and ordered one from BPNW, as the 
price was less than half of TRF. Unfortunately, the finish was much rougher 
than the original and the diameter was .0005" under spec. I returned it and order 
a replacement from TRF.  _Quantumechanics_ 
(http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=18)  has a good article on TR6 lay gear woes 
and I went with the longer bearings recommended.
Berry Price



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From DLylis at aol.com  Sat Feb  9 20:04:36 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 22:04:36 EST
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft
Message-ID: <d50.21fb1781.34dfc3c4@aol.com>

Yes. I believe those are referred to as the shell bearings.  That is  the 
extent of my knowledge as my 69 TR6 has a Toyota five speed conversion, but  I 
believe that my original tranny (car built in 68) does not have the cages  
either.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.     
(http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
48)

From acs25m at swbell.net  Sat Feb  9 21:39:36 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Sat, 9 Feb 2008 20:39:36 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] egr port
Message-ID: <176468.66390.qm@web81607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Hi all,
       I have a question that I hope someone can give me an answer to. I had to replace the head on my TR250 with a later model head. It has an  egr port in it that I need to plug. Does any one out there know what size plug will fit. It looks to be a fine thread. Somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4" or possibly a metric? Any idea where I can find one?
  Thanks in advance,
  John Maneke
  68TR250
  cd3416

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sun Feb 10 04:07:30 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (James Franks)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 06:07:30 -0500
Subject: [6pack] egr port
In-Reply-To: <176468.66390.qm@web81607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <176468.66390.qm@web81607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <47AEDAF2.2010208@roadrunner.com>

Have you checked the port spacing on the intake yet? The two heads are 
different, and take different manifolds. Lay the old intake gasket on 
the new head to see what I mean.

Jim

acs25m at swbell.net wrote:
> Hi all,
>        I have a question that I hope someone can give me an answer to. I had to replace the head on my TR250 with a later model head. It has an  egr port in it that I need to plug. Does any one out there know what size plug will fit. It looks to be a fine thread. Somewhere between 1/2" and 3/4" or possibly a metric? Any idea where I can find one?
>   Thanks in advance,
>   John Maneke
>   68TR250
>   cd3416
> _

From 6parts at charter.net  Sun Feb 10 07:23:56 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 09:23:56 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] egr port
References: <176468.66390.qm@web81607.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001401c86bf0$925bc530$f6c37744@alan>

EGR hole is 3/4 fine thread, you also need  the latter intake manifold.

Al

www.triumphowners.com/624


----- Original Message ----- 
From: <acs25m at swbell.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Cc: <triumphs at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 09, 2008 11:39 PM
Subject: [TR] egr port


> Hi all,
>       I have a question that I hope someone can give me an answer to. I 
> had to replace the head on my TR250 with a later model head. It has an 
> egr port in it that I need to plug. Does any one out there know what size 
> plug will fit. It looks to be a fine thread. Somewhere between 1/2" and 
> 3/4" or possibly a metric? Any idea where I can find one?
>  Thanks in advance,
>  John Maneke
>  68TR250
>  cd3416
> _______________________________________________

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Sun Feb 10 10:11:00 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 12:11:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Door Handle and Window Winder SPRING
Message-ID: <e343023f0802100911i4652fcafxc18ca8e7bcf401be@mail.gmail.com>

On a TR6, does the large spring go behind the black plastic escutcheon or
behind the door panel? Should be self evident, but I just dont' remember
where it was when I pulled the handles and panel off.

Oh, and by the way, lining up those new clips on the new panels so they
conform to the holes in the door is a real PITA!

Thanks.
Bob

From acs25m at swbell.net  Sun Feb 10 11:25:35 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 10:25:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] re; egr port
Message-ID: <197173.72608.qm@web81608.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Thank you listers,
     It had never dawned on me to use anything other than a plug. A couple of people recommended a fine thread bolt and that is exactly what I plan on using. I had been unable to find the right size plug in a fine thread here locally but a bolt is another thing all together and won't be a problem.
  Thank you all again,
  John Maneke

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Feb 10 11:43:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 13:43:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Door Handle and Window Winder SPRING
In-Reply-To: <e343023f0802100911i4652fcafxc18ca8e7bcf401be@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e343023f0802100911i4652fcafxc18ca8e7bcf401be@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001c86c14$d43e5660$210110ac@bobspc>

Bob,
I could never get the springs back in and preserve my sanity......... Plus I
could never figure out what the did........and 10 years later I still know
their purpose. There's some pictures at the bottom of this page
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/WindowChannel.htm) showing how to get the
pin back in. It's very easy to do without the springs.


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of robert fabie
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 12:11 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Door Handle and Window Winder SPRING

On a TR6, does the large spring go behind the black plastic escutcheon or
behind the door panel? Should be self evident, but I just dont' remember
where it was when I pulled the handles and panel off.

Oh, and by the way, lining up those new clips on the new panels so they
conform to the holes in the door is a real PITA!

Thanks.
Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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Checked by AVG. 
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11:54 AM
 

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11:54 AM

From whitetr6 at gmail.com  Sun Feb 10 11:51:12 2008
From: whitetr6 at gmail.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 13:51:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] TR6 counter shaft
In-Reply-To: <c84.2271f340.34dfb964@aol.com>
References: <c84.2271f340.34dfb964@aol.com>
Message-ID: <1f81f7e00802101051v7579e876n4121760b94d6cca5@mail.gmail.com>

I went through two of the bad countershafts in less than two years. Then I
ordered one from Quantum Mechanics with the bearings already pressed in, and
it's been perfect ever since. I'd suggest giving John a call there. He's an
absolute expert on TR transmissions.

Mark
76 TR6 CF53032UO

On Feb 9, 2008 9:20 PM, <Btp44 at aol.com> wrote:

> I think the closed cage (drawn cup) bearings started with the all synchro
> TR4
> trans. Recently I replaced a countershaft and ordered one from BPNW, as
> the
> price was less than half of TRF. Unfortunately, the finish was much
> rougher
> than the original and the diameter was .0005" under spec. I returned it
> and order
> a replacement from TRF.  _Quantumechanics_
> (http://www.quantumechanics.com/categories.php?op=newindex&catid=18)  has
> a good article on TR6 lay gear woes
> and I went with the longer bearings recommended.
> Berry Price
>
>
>
> **************Biggest Grammy Award surprises of all time on AOL Music.
> (
> http://music.aol.com/grammys/pictures/never-won-a-grammy?NCID=aolcmp003000000025
> 48)
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as whitetr6 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Mark

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sun Feb 10 16:13:10 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 23:13:10 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Door Handle and Window Winder SPRING
Message-ID: <712219760-1202685350-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-904098938-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Bob,

They go behind the door panel.  Purpose is to keep the black escutcheons against the handles.  They are a PITA as well to keep back there while you are trying to line up thew clips. Make sure that you tape some plastic across the door under the panel as a water barrier before you put them on. 

Lou
------Original Message------
From: robert fabie
Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Feb 10, 2008 11:11 AM
Subject: [6pack] Door Handle and Window Winder SPRING

On a TR6, does the large spring go behind the black plastic escutcheon or
behind the door panel? Should be self evident, but I just dont' remember
where it was when I pulled the handles and panel off.

Oh, and by the way, lining up those new clips on the new panels so they
conform to the holes in the door is a real PITA!

Thanks.
Bob
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 10 16:22:05 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 17:22:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Stag Acquisition and Repair Fund
Message-ID: <000801c86c3b$c0e73fb0$800101df@garage.local>

We are up to $5,550 in pledges and have received over $1,000 in donations.

Great job, all of you!

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Sun Feb 10 17:02:34 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 19:02:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Thank you
Message-ID: <e343023f0802101602u62053a85xb19f1e99b27f2292@mail.gmail.com>

Just a note of thanks to all who replied so promptly to my question about
the springs behind the door handle and window crank. They do indeed go
between the steel door and the interior panel with the narrow end of the
spring toward the steel door. But that was the easy part...putting the pins
back in the handles is much easier as soon as you realize that one end of
the pin is tapered... I know, I'm an idiot. But the project is done (on the
passenger side) and it's perfect. New regulator, window guides and interior
panel.

Thanks again to: John Mitchell, Bill Wellbaum, Lou and Bob Danielson.

Bob Fabie
'75 TR6

From jimmble at roadrunner.com  Sun Feb 10 17:50:36 2008
From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks)
Date: Sun, 10 Feb 2008 19:50:36 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Thank you
In-Reply-To: <e343023f0802101602u62053a85xb19f1e99b27f2292@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e343023f0802101602u62053a85xb19f1e99b27f2292@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47AF9BDC.70303@roadrunner.com>

First of all, you aren't an idiot. Whoever came up with those handle 
pins, however..........

Jim


robert fabie wrote:
> Just a note of thanks to all who replied so promptly to my question about
> the springs behind the door handle and window crank. They do indeed go
> between the steel door and the interior panel with the narrow end of the
> spring toward the steel door. But that was the easy part...putting the pins
> back in the handles is much easier as soon as you realize that one end of
> the pin is tapered... I know, I'm an idiot. But the project is done (on the
> passenger side) and it's perfect. New regulator, window guides and interior
> panel.
>
> Thanks again to: John Mitchell, Bill Wellbaum, Lou and Bob Danielson.
>
> Bob Fabie
> '75 TR6

From lklotz.1 at netzero.net  Sun Feb 10 17:56:39 2008
From: lklotz.1 at netzero.net (lklotz.1 at netzero.net)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 00:56:39 GMT
Subject: [6pack] audio power question
Message-ID: <20080210.165639.17032.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>

Hi all,
I would like to upgrade my audio deck in my tr6.  It has a stock alternator.
I would like to put an amp in but I am afraid that the electrical system will
be unable to handle it.
Has anyone had experience doing this?
What is the amp output of the stock alternator?

thanks for your help
TRsixman

_____________________________________________________________
Largest network of startups. Find new startup opportunities. Click here.
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bZvkMuaIPAIeAKvlYuv5EzeB/

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb 11 04:56:06 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 05:56:06 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Amount actually collected so far: $1,650
Message-ID: <000801c86ca5$16c08ae0$8215a8c0@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Feb 11 07:07:41 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:07:41 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Where to mount auxilliary power components ?
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D658D09@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I have 3 socket mounted relays (fog lights, mains and dip) and a small fuse
panel for accessory power distribution that I had mounted inside the cockpit,
high up in the left side of the passenger foot well next to the buzzer unit,
using small bolts through the vertical section of the area where the battery
lives. That worked fine from a real estate perspective but this winter I am
repainting the engine bay and I'd really like to avoid having holes/screws in
this area.

I'm looking for ideas for where and how to mount these things such that I
don't have screws or nuts showing. I thought about welding a bracket to the
inside of the footwell in that same area but there just isn't enough room to
get me, a welding helmet and wield a mig welder and hold a bracket at the same
time.

So I'm entertaining other suggestions..

Stan

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb 11 10:24:38 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 09:24:38 -0800
Subject: [6pack] audio power question
In-Reply-To: <20080210.165639.17032.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20080210.165639.17032.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E82B4@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	TRsixman:

	The output of your alternator depends on the year of the car.
The output in general went up continuously over the production run
(Although there were many different alternators fitted, including Delco,
just to add to the confusion).
	If you install the alternator from a 76 TR6 (18ACR), you will
have enough power for a small amp. I put in a stereo amp and it draws
only 6 amps - it is plenty loud enough to be head with the top down.
'course sound quality is another matter.
	The original Lucas alternators were the 15ACR, 16ACR, 17ACR and
18ACR. As you might imagine the output increased the higher the model
number:

15ACR 28A
16ACR 34A
17ACR 36A
18ACR 43A

	These were the most common ones fitted. You can get these at a
good auto parts store for under $100 (rebuilt), so work with your parts
man to get the alternator of your choice.

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of lklotz.1 at netzero.net
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 4:57 PM
To: 6pack at Autox.Team.Net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] audio power question

Hi all,
I would like to upgrade my audio deck in my tr6.  It has a stock
alternator.
I would like to put an amp in but I am afraid that the electrical system
will
be unable to handle it.
Has anyone had experience doing this?
What is the amp output of the stock alternator?

thanks for your help
TRsixman

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From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Feb 11 10:34:00 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 17:34:00 +0000
Subject: [6pack] audio power question
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E82B4@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <20080210.165639.17032.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com><C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E82B4@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <859598362-1202751404-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2143180377-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

There are a couple of good threads in 6-PACK electrical forums on the use of off the shelf Bosch and Delco alternators that put out more power, may want to take a look. These list part numbers and installation differences if any.  

Lou
 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>

Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 09:24:38 
To:<lklotz.1 at netzero.net>
Cc:6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] audio power question


    TRsixman:

    The output of your alternator depends on the year of the car.
The output in general went up continuously over the production run
(Although there were many different alternators fitted, including Delco,
just to add to the confusion).
    If you install the alternator from a 76 TR6 (18ACR), you will
have enough power for a small amp. I put in a stereo amp and it draws
only 6 amps - it is plenty loud enough to be head with the top down.
'course sound quality is another matter.
    The original Lucas alternators were the 15ACR, 16ACR, 17ACR and
18ACR. As you might imagine the output increased the higher the model
number:

15ACR 28A
16ACR 34A
17ACR 36A
18ACR 43A

    These were the most common ones fitted. You can get these at a
good auto parts store for under $100 (rebuilt), so work with your parts
man to get the alternator of your choice.

    Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of lklotz.1 at netzero.net
Sent: Sunday, February 10, 2008 4:57 PM
To: 6pack at Autox.Team.Net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] audio power question

Hi all,
I would like to upgrade my audio deck in my tr6.  It has a stock
alternator.
I would like to put an amp in but I am afraid that the electrical system
will
be unable to handle it.
Has anyone had experience doing this?
What is the amp output of the stock alternator?

thanks for your help
TRsixman

_____________________________________________________________
Largest network of startups. Find new startup opportunities. Click here.
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From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 11 12:14:00 2008
From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 11:14:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] battery group #
Message-ID: <247072.88751.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

can someone tell me which battery group that the TR6
uses?
thanks
ryan


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
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From lang at isis.mit.edu  Mon Feb 11 12:29:46 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 14:29:46 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] battery group #
In-Reply-To: <247072.88751.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <247072.88751.qm@web51306.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802111428490.11734@isis.mit.edu>

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008, Ryan Van Luchene wrote:

> can someone tell me which battery group that the TR6
> uses?

24

make sure the positive post is on the left when the posts are closest to 
you.

> thanks
> ryan

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Feb 11 13:25:01 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 12:25:01 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Where to mount auxilliary power components ?
In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster@hp.com>'s message of Mon, 11
	Feb 2008 14:07:41 +0000
Message-ID: <13227-47B0AF1D-5458@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>

Stan---If you like your present location and just want to eliminate the
nuts and bolts, try using Gorrila Glue. This stuff should be plenty
strong enough for this application.

Dick

Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From:
stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, Feb 11, 2008, 2:07pm
(PST+8) To: 6pack at autox.team.net (6pack Email List) Subject: [6pack]
Where to mount auxilliary power components ?
I have 3 socket mounted relays (fog lights, mains and dip) and a small
fuse panel for accessory power distribution that I had mounted inside
the cockpit, high up in the left side of the passenger foot well next to
the buzzer unit, using small bolts through the vertical section of the
area where the battery lives. That worked fine from a real estate
perspective but this winter I am repainting the engine bay and I'd
really like to avoid having holes/screws in this area.
I'm looking for ideas for where and how to mount these things such that
I don't have screws or nuts showing. I thought about welding a bracket
to the inside of the footwell in that same area but there just isn't
enough room to get me, a welding helmet and wield a mig welder and hold
a bracket at the same time.
So I'm entertaining other suggestions..
Stan
______________________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 11 16:16:03 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:16:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
Message-ID: <000001c86d04$141d2410$210110ac@bobspc>

On a TR6 the inner trailing arm pivot bolt is installed with the head toward
the center of the car. The idea being that if the nut should work loose, the
bolt can't work it's way out because the head will hit the frame. Logical...
but a royal pain in the butt for installation and removal of the arms. Has
anyone ever seen, heard or experienced the nuts coming off of the pivot
bolts with the subsequent trailing arm disaster? So what have most of you
done when you've re-installed the arms? 

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.2/1270 - Release Date: 2/10/2008
12:21 PM

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Feb 11 16:41:13 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 23:41:13 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
In-Reply-To: <000001c86d04$141d2410$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c86d04$141d2410$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <1116956479-1202773438-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1410626500-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Bob,

I used a slightly longer bolt, drilled it and used a castle nut with a cotter pin keeper. Guess you could also wire it.  

Lou
 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>

Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:16:03 
To:"'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>, <6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts


On a TR6 the inner trailing arm pivot bolt is installed with the head toward
the center of the car. The idea being that if the nut should work loose, the
bolt can't work it's way out because the head will hit the frame. Logical...
but a royal pain in the butt for installation and removal of the arms. Has
anyone ever seen, heard or experienced the nuts coming off of the pivot
bolts with the subsequent trailing arm disaster? So what have most of you
done when you've re-installed the arms? 

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.2/1270 - Release Date: 2/10/2008
12:21 PM

_______________________________________________

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From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 11 16:56:06 2008
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 15:56:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Clutch Slave cylinder
Message-ID: <863412.59307.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I have a 76 TR6  and rebuilt the slave cylinder three months ago.  It has about 100 miles on it.  I changed to Herman's  5 speed kit and do not need the slave anymore.  

Anyone want for $15.00 plus whatever fedex needs to sent it to you.  

John H
 
       
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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb 11 17:26:39 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 16:26:39 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
In-Reply-To: <000001c86d04$141d2410$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c86d04$141d2410$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E88B3@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Bob:

        The prevailing wisdom is that you want to mount the bolts so
that the heads point towards each other to facilitate removal in the
future. I recommend fresh Nyloc Nuts when reinstalling them. Other than
that I have had no issues with this strategy, although admittedly I do
not put many miles on my car in a year.

        Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Monday, February 11, 2008 3:16 PM
To: 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts

On a TR6 the inner trailing arm pivot bolt is installed with the head
toward
the center of the car. The idea being that if the nut should work loose,
the
bolt can't work it's way out because the head will hit the frame.
Logical...
but a royal pain in the butt for installation and removal of the arms.
Has
anyone ever seen, heard or experienced the nuts coming off of the pivot
bolts with the subsequent trailing arm disaster? So what have most of
you
done when you've re-installed the arms?

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.2/1270 - Release Date:
2/10/2008
12:21 PM

From DLylis at aol.com  Mon Feb 11 17:27:42 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 19:27:42 EST
Subject: [6pack] Trailing Arm Pivot Bolts
Message-ID: <d06.26c702a0.34e241fe@aol.com>

Bob,
I just turned the bolt around and used a new nyloc.  The way I look at  it if 
one comes out but not the other you are likely to find yourself in the  same 
body of water without a means of propulsion.  
I don't know that that was the reason they did it that way.  I think  it was 
more just to piss you off.  
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



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From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Feb 11 18:21:04 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:21:04 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Tranny Tunnel
References: <000001c84db8$754e0df0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00a001c86d15$8a9090d0$54f30818@rolofson>

I still have the old pressed cardboard/fiber..or whatever it is... tunnel
cover and just used some pretty dense weathering stripping from the home
supply store as a sealing strip.   I put bubble wrap over the tunnel and
floors and haven't had a problem for the last 5-6 years.  If you want to get
fancier than that you could try some double stick foam stripping about 1/4
inch thick...you'll have to google that one.


Bud Rolofson

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Bob Danielson
  To: triumphs at autox.team.net ; '6pack'
  Sent: Wednesday, January 02, 2008 8:26 PM
  Subject: [TR] Tranny Tunnel


  OK....who makes the best fitting after market transmission Cover/Tunnel and
  sealing strip? I'm talking about the Poly ones. I've read good and bad
about
  this product but my "fiber" one is not worthy of going back in the car. I
  think it has to do with that one bolt I missed when trying to remove it
  .........drat. I found one on eBay for $80 but he doesn't include a fitting
  kit because "he hasn't found one that meets his standards".

  Thanks
  Bob

  Bob Danielson
  1975 TR6 CF38503U
  Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
  http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org



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  Checked by AVG.
  Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.13/1206 - Release Date: 1/1/2008
  12:09 PM



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From patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net  Tue Feb 12 09:42:11 2008
From: patrick.bloem at sbcglobal.net (Patrick Bloem)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 08:42:11 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Searching for TR6 seat part
Message-ID: <217048.91402.qm@web81107.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

>If anyone can help me locate the following part, to
fit the 1970-1972
 TR6 driver's seat, I'd be extremely grateful.

LH Seat seat-back support wire, lower wire, outer. TR6
1970-72 (the
>seat with fixed headrests)


Tom,
I had to make some of these for my TR250 this past
spring.  I used a wire that we use in building chairs
where I work. Some of these larger wires required two
piece fabrication where I welded the two pieces with
an overlap.  I bent the wires with heat in a small
fixture I made to hold the wire end or used the vise. 
If you cannot find a suitable wire I could send you a
length. The proper wire that will hold it's shape is
an ASTM 407-93 type c that I used.  If you cannot find
a hardedned wire I could send you a piece. Contact me
off list.

Patrick Bloem

68 TR250
73TR6
86 Vandenplas
East Grand Rapids, Michigan

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 12 12:25:08 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 19:25:08 +0000
Subject: [6pack] audio power question
In-Reply-To: <20080210.165639.17032.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>
References: <20080210.165639.17032.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W45AA59FB60344518BC6E028E2B0@phx.gbl>

Sixman,
I've got a '69 but I'm not sure which alternator. Probably the smallest. I've
had no problems with an audio amp installed. Unless you have a bunch of
aftermarket upgrades, I think there's not really a huge drain on the system
anyway.

Also, FWIW, at the time I convinced myself that if my speakers were hooked up
in Series (vs Parallel) then the power draw by my amp would be less. I'm no
expert and I don't remember my gooogle path at the time, but this site gives a
bunch of info on the subject.

http://www.termpro.com/articles/spkrz.html

Anyway, I'm happy with my setup and the alternator isn't smoking. It is nice
to be able to hear music with the top down at speed.

Sloane :)
69-Six> Hi all,> I would like to upgrade my audio deck in my tr6. It has a
stock alternator.> I would like to put an amp in but I am afraid that the
electrical system will> be unable to handle it.> Has anyone had experience
doing this?> What is the amp output of the stock alternator?> > thanks for
your help> TRsixman>
_________________________________________________________________
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From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 12 14:38:35 2008
From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 13:38:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] high-output 43 AMP alternator
Message-ID: <795963.68060.qm@web51309.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

anyone with a 71-73 TR6 that has used BPNW's 43 AMP
"new" alternator? success? did you have to upgrade any
of your wiring to larger gauge? any mods or truly
"bolt-on"?

it comes with fan and pulley and there's no core b/c
it's new...and costs under 100 bones

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/bdd/ee/7466/Alternator%20MGB%2072-73%2C%20TR6%2071-73%2CSpit%2073-80%20NEW


ryan
6/71 imperial blue



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From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Feb 12 14:43:32 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:43:32 +0000
Subject: [6pack] audio power question
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W45AA59FB60344518BC6E028E2B0@phx.gbl>
References: <20080210.165639.17032.0@webmail09.vgs.untd.com>
	<BLU118-W45AA59FB60344518BC6E028E2B0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D659162@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

FYI and with apologies to whoever I snipped this from, I bought one of these
Bosch alternators in anticipation of installing it when I put my beloved back
together this spring.

It is a 55A unit I believe


Lee Janssen's TR6 Fiesta Alternator
Transplanting a Bosch alternator into the TR6

Like most LBC owners, I was always wondering if the battery would be charged
and watched in apprehension as the head lights dimmed as I came to a stop
sign. When I heard that I could replace my Lucas alternator with a Bosch unit
I immediately headed for my local parts store.

I originally converted to this alternator in the mid 90's. At that time Ford
Fiestas were plentiful both on the road and in the junkyard. In 2006 the
situation is significantly different; nearly all Fiestas are off the road. As
a result the alternator is a special order from all of the major part stores.
This is only a problem when your alternator breaks down in the middle of
nowhere (where all breakdowns occur).

If you are still game, request the optional high amp Bosch alternator for a
'78 to '80 Ford Fiesta with A/C & rear window defrost. The standard Fiesta
alternator is a Motorcraft so be sure to ask for the Bosch. This particular
alternator was also used in the 1976 VW Rabbit. The large brown wire attaches
to the B+ terminal on the alternator, the small brown/yellow stripe wire
attaches to the D+ terminal on the alternator and the remaining wire should be
tied back and isolated (insulated) from ground. These Bosch alternators bolt
right up and plug directly into the existing TR6 harness. The adjusting bolt
thread on the Bosch alternator is metric so be careful not to damage the
thread with an SAE bolt. Various reference numbers that have been supplied for
the Bosch are as follows: 120 489 244, D8RZ-10346-AX, AL 119X, NAPA AL86X BSH,
AutoZone 13107.

The following belt info applies to a Bosch alternator being installed into a
1974 TR6 and will probably apply to other years as well. For best results, use
a 45" belt (Kelly Springfield 17450). The stock belt which measures 44 1/2"
fits but the alternator will be located at the beginning of the adjustment
slot restricting access to the #1 plug. A 45 1/2" belt locates the alternator
near the end of the adjustment slot.

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Feb 12 15:52:09 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 17:52:09 EST
Subject: [6pack] audio power question
Message-ID: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com>

I have a 69 and I "upgraded" the alternator from the 15 ACR to the 17 ACR  
(maybe a year or two later)  I installed a Pioneer CD-IB100 II deck with an  
internal 50w (?) amp.  I did not upgrade the alternator because of the  deck but 
because my old one looked crappy and this was available for the right  price.  
I put Kenwood 5 1/2" speakers in the rear behind the seats and 4 1/2" in  the 
kidney pads and there is plenty of sound.  I have  friend who put  in an amp 
and it took up too much space for my taste.
If you would like I can send pics of how I put in the rear speakers.   Let me 
know. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Feb 12 15:55:18 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 17:55:18 EST
Subject: [6pack] high-output 43 AMP alternator
Message-ID: <c2e.2a57d32b.34e37dd6@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/12/2008 4:38:52 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
dejabuzzed at yahoo.com writes:

anyone  with a 71-73 TR6 that has used BPNW's 43 AMP
"new" alternator? 


Why is this limited to those years?  Is it because of the three  wire setup?
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 12 16:44:33 2008
From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 15:44:33 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] high-output 43 AMP alternator
In-Reply-To: <c2e.2a57d32b.34e37dd6@aol.com>
Message-ID: <99709.43932.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

yeah, that's my understanding. the 69-70, and maybe
some 71 have the 2-plug 5-terminal connections, of
which only rebuilt alternators are available. leighton
@ bpnw says the 1-plug 3-terminal versions are
available NEW, are 43 Amps and are the same as the
ones used on the 75-76 TR6s. hopefully, someone here
has used it and put some miles on it and can give me
some feedback. otherwise i think i'll go over to the
6-pack forum and ask there. 

ryan
 
--- DLylis at aol.com wrote:

>  
>  
> In a message dated 2/12/2008 4:38:52 P.M. Eastern
> Standard Time,  
> dejabuzzed at yahoo.com writes:
> 
> anyone  with a 71-73 TR6 that has used BPNW's 43 AMP
> "new" alternator? 
> 
> 
> Why is this limited to those years?  Is it because
> of the three  wire setup?
>  
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO
> 
> 
> 
> **************The year's hottest artists on the red
> carpet at the Grammy 
> Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
>
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
> 



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From DLylis at aol.com  Tue Feb 12 16:51:40 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 18:51:40 EST
Subject: [6pack] high-output 43 AMP alternator
Message-ID: <cdb.26f70e82.34e38b0c@aol.com>

There is a five to three wire conversion available from Moss.  I put  one on 
my 69 and it goes on easy and works well.
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)

From chalkp at internode.on.net  Tue Feb 12 16:54:39 2008
From: chalkp at internode.on.net (Peter Chalk)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 10:24:39 +1030
Subject: [6pack] audio power question - speaker install slant
In-Reply-To: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com>
References: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>

Some pics of the speaker install wld be appreciated thanks.. I hate 
butchering the bodywork in there though.. I have a 4 x 50w RMS deck in 
and 5" JBL speakers in the kidney pads, but its difficult to get good 
bass response without a sizable sealed cavity or overworking those 
little 5" cones!!

cheers
Peter Chalk
'69 TR6 150hp PI

> If you would like I can send pics of how I put in the rear speakers.   Let me 
> know. 
>  
> David  Lylis
> 69 TR6 CC26160L
> 60 TR3A TS74461LO

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Feb 12 17:08:49 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 16:08:49 -0800
Subject: [6pack] high-output 43 AMP alternator
In-Reply-To: <99709.43932.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <c2e.2a57d32b.34e37dd6@aol.com>
	<99709.43932.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E922D@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Ryan:

	Little known fact: The three wire Lucas alternators have all the
stuff for a 5 wire connections. Lucas merely changed the plastic cover
on the rear of the alternator to cover the other terminals.
	I took one of the later 3 terminal alternators, and pulled off
the rear plastic cover (two or three screws holds it on). By swapping on
the cover off my 5 wire alternator, I converted the newer alternator to
the older style connections. No special adapter needed. As I recall, in
addition to swapping the rear cover, I had to move a spade lug from the
old one to the new one (it was held on by one screw, so it was easy to
swap).
	Presto. I have a later 43 amp alternator with an earlier 5 wire
harness.
	I didn't know about this little trick, the parts man at Baxter
showed it to me. I got a replacement alternator (the 18ACR) and I
noticed that my wiring harness would not fit - and said he got me the
wrong alternator. He showed me what to do - it took 5 minutes. Now there
was a professional who knew what he was doing.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Ryan Van Luchene
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 3:45 PM
To: DLylis at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] high-output 43 AMP alternator

yeah, that's my understanding. the 69-70, and maybe
some 71 have the 2-plug 5-terminal connections, of
which only rebuilt alternators are available. leighton
@ bpnw says the 1-plug 3-terminal versions are
available NEW, are 43 Amps and are the same as the
ones used on the 75-76 TR6s. hopefully, someone here
has used it and put some miles on it and can give me
some feedback. otherwise i think i'll go over to the
6-pack forum and ask there.

ryan

--- DLylis at aol.com wrote:

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Feb 12 17:12:30 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 16:12:30 -0800
Subject: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
In-Reply-To: <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>
References: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com> <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E9235@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Peter:

	There are some powered subwoofers designed to fit under a car
seat. Has anyone tried one of those?

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Peter Chalk
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 3:55 PM
To: DLylis at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] audio power question - speaker install slant

Some pics of the speaker install wld be appreciated thanks.. I hate
butchering the bodywork in there though.. I have a 4 x 50w RMS deck in
and 5" JBL speakers in the kidney pads, but its difficult to get good
bass response without a sizable sealed cavity or overworking those
little 5" cones!!

cheers
Peter Chalk
'69 TR6 150hp PI

From stan.foster at hp.com  Tue Feb 12 17:47:16 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 00:47:16 +0000
Subject: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E9235@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com> <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E9235@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D6591C6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

I have one and I think Aaron bought the same one. They are no substitute for
some big honking speakers that can move a lot of air but if like me you had a
pretty good audio that was just lacking some base they can be adjusted to fill
in and it really helps with 60's, 70's rock music which is what I typically
listen to in the TR.

We got this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Vn7WMqhc65N/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=51000&I
=105CSBB2

I have it on the floor behind the driver seat but I'm thinking it may fit next
to the gas tank and I could get it completely out of the way. It comes with a
wired remote so you can turn it on and off and adjust it. That flimsy bit of
cardboard between you and the gas tank isn't going to do any better impeding
the bass than it will when your gas tank ruptures.

Queue Vance for some gory predictions of how that might go..

Stan


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 7:13 PM
To: Peter Chalk; DLylis at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response

        Peter:

        There are some powered subwoofers designed to fit under a car
seat. Has anyone tried one of those?

        Vance

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Tue Feb 12 19:10:01 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 21:10:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Need TR6 Drivers (left) Glass
Message-ID: <e343023f0802121810t448bfaf2lf248c35a7cf0c72e@mail.gmail.com>

I'm sick.
I chipped the top of my driver's side glass while disassembling the door to
replace the regulator, guides, etc. Can't believe it as careful as I am.
Does anyone have one to sell? I want an original TripleXXX glass.
Many thanks.
Bob Fabie
'75 TR6

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Feb 12 21:52:39 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 22:52:39 -0600
Subject: [6pack] We have now collected $2200!!!!
Message-ID: <005201c86dfc$e34e6110$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From glccrc at ptd.net  Wed Feb 13 04:08:14 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 06:08:14 -0500
Subject: [6pack] audio power question
In-Reply-To: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com>
Message-ID: <20080213110803.1F16B18763D@autox.team.net>

I'd love to have some pics of how you fitted speakers in. I'm in midst of
obeying the requirement the better half stated upon finding out TR was the
Glen's Marque this Fall, which was simply "Make sure its presentable". That,
my friends, is the sound of a blank check!

Currently wrestling with how to best attack the stereo situation-
Have a Blaupunk that is assumed period/DPO; cassette doesn't work, but then
again, how many of my old cassettes sound good after 10 or 20 years in the
garage?

Since the seats are shot, and they and some other interior work are planned
after Matt gets done with the tranny/mechanicals- I was thinking of just
getting Miata seats with internal speakers, rumor is they're more
comfortable, which would be nice for my wife/funding source. Seat foams and
new covers would be easier than sourcing a pair of Miata seats, of course,
and if they are apart, how tough could it be to cut in speakers to the TR6
original seats and run wires out the bottom (I know, this tempts Murphy)?

Would be nice to rig up an iPod spot, wire to the FM input on back of
existing radio, and I think I'd be set if the situation would ever arise
that I could actually hear the radio or iPod over the headers and Monza
exhaust.....much smaller fit than the other option, a CD changer with
remote.

Any thoughts from those who've conquered this successfully?

Doubt I could avoid the constables for long with the real easy solution,
sound-deadening headphones:) plugged into the iPod.

Thanks in advance,
George Church
70 Tr6



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
DLylis at aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 5:52 PM
To: im_sloane at hotmail.com; lklotz.1 at netzero.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Cc: triumphs at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] audio power question

I have a 69 and I "upgraded" the alternator from the 15 ACR to the 17 ACR  
(maybe a year or two later)  I installed a Pioneer CD-IB100 II deck with an

internal 50w (?) amp.  I did not upgrade the alternator because of the  deck
but 
because my old one looked crappy and this was available for the right
price.  
I put Kenwood 5 1/2" speakers in the rear behind the seats and 4 1/2" in
the 
kidney pads and there is plenty of sound.  I have  friend who put  in an amp

and it took up too much space for my taste.
If you would like I can send pics of how I put in the rear speakers.   Let
me 
know. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************The year's hottest artists on the red carpet at the Grammy 
Awards. Go to AOL Music.      
(http://music.aol.com/grammys?NCID=aolcmp00300000002565)
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Feb 13 08:44:46 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 07:44:46 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Need TR6 Drivers (left) Glass
In-Reply-To: <e343023f0802121810t448bfaf2lf248c35a7cf0c72e@mail.gmail.com>
References: <e343023f0802121810t448bfaf2lf248c35a7cf0c72e@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0340C49D@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Bob:

 	I got a drivers window from British Auto Works
(www.britishautoworks.com) for a decent price. They have a wrecking yard
so they can pull this stuff for you. Email them and they will give you a
quote. NFI.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of robert fabie
Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 6:10 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Need TR6 Drivers (left) Glass

I'm sick.
I chipped the top of my driver's side glass while disassembling the door
to
replace the regulator, guides, etc. Can't believe it as careful as I am.
Does anyone have one to sell? I want an original TripleXXX glass.
Many thanks.
Bob Fabie
'75 TR6

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 13 09:09:40 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 08:09:40 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Need TR6 Drivers (left) Glass
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0340C49D@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <576458.64378.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Bob,

I have MANY cars that have been broken.  I haven't
looked at all the side windows as far as the scratches
you get when you have a lack of felt, but none have
chips and all are triplexx

I'm in Cincy, OH

Todd


--- "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>
wrote:

> 	Bob:
> 
>  	I got a drivers window from British Auto Works
> (www.britishautoworks.com) for a decent price. They
> have a wrecking yard
> so they can pull this stuff for you. Email them and
> they will give you a
> quote. NFI.
> 
> 	Vance
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
>
6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net]
> On
> Behalf Of robert fabie
> Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 6:10 PM
> To: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: [6pack] Need TR6 Drivers (left) Glass
> 
> I'm sick.
> I chipped the top of my driver's side glass while
> disassembling the door
> to
> replace the regulator, guides, etc. Can't believe it
> as careful as I am.
> Does anyone have one to sell? I want an original
> TripleXXX glass.
> Many thanks.
> Bob Fabie
> '75 TR6



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From acekraut11 at aol.com  Wed Feb 13 13:19:54 2008
From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 15:19:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D6591C6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com> <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E9235@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D6591C6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <8CA3C94EDCBE3F5-338-168B@WEBMAIL-MB14.sysops.aol.com>

Stan is correct and that is the item I purchased, though I purchased mine from kmart.com since they had the best price and it was in stock.? I recommend the subwoofer as a good fit and a good compromise.? Not the best subwoofer you can buy but sounds pretty good and is incredible for the size.? It comes with a wired controller for bass level.? Nice for when you want just the right amount of bass.

Aaron


Aaron Cropley
71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!)
http://www.triumphowners.com/108
2002 Mini Cooper S
Topsham, Maine


-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan <stan.foster at hp.com>
To: 6pack at autox.team.net <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tue, 12 Feb 2008 7:47 pm
Subject: Re: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response



I have one and I think Aaron bought the same one. They are no substitute for
some big honking speakers that can move a lot of air but if like me you had a
pretty good audio that was just lacking some base they can be adjusted to fill
in and it really helps with 60's, 70's rock music which is what I typically
listen to in the TR.

We got this:

http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Vn7WMqhc65N/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=51000&I
=105CSBB2

I have it on the floor behind the driver seat but I'm thinking it may fit next
to the gas tank and I could get it completely out of the way. It comes with a
wired remote so you can turn it on and off and adjust it. That flimsy bit of
cardboard between you and the gas tank isn't going to do any better impeding
the bass than it will when your gas tank ruptures.

Queue Vance for some gory predictions of how that might go..

Stan



________________________________________________________________________
More new features than ever.  Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Wed Feb 13 15:29:43 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 16:29:43 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $2,600 received
Message-ID: <001e01c86e90$0a2ee2d0$7d15a8c0@garage.local>

and $5,700 pledged!!!!

thank you all of you.

and, thank you to the Miami Valley Club (that's Miami, OHIO!!) who pitched in
$100, bringing our pledges to $5,700 (I can count that, right?) and our total
to $2,600 received.

From cregg.cowan at sri.com  Wed Feb 13 17:03:11 2008
From: cregg.cowan at sri.com (Cregg Cowan)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 16:03:11 -0800
Subject: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
References: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com> <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E9235@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <6.2.0.14.2.20080213160241.04c12e28@mail.esd.sri.com>

Apparently these units are out of stock at most (all?) online stores.
Has anyone been able to purchase one recently?
Any good alternatives?

Thanks!
Cregg Cowan

At 04:47 PM 2/12/2008, Foster, Stan wrote:
>I have one and I think Aaron bought the same one. They are no substitute for
>some big honking speakers that can move a lot of air but if like me you had a
>pretty good audio that was just lacking some base they can be adjusted to fill
>in and it really helps with 60's, 70's rock music which is what I typically
>listen to in the TR.
>
>We got this:
>
>http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Vn7WMqhc65N/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=51000&I
>=105CSBB2
>
>I have it on the floor behind the driver seat but I'm thinking it may fit next
>to the gas tank and I could get it completely out of the way. It comes with a
>wired remote so you can turn it on and off and adjust it. That flimsy bit of
>cardboard between you and the gas tank isn't going to do any better impeding
>the bass than it will when your gas tank ruptures.
>
>Queue Vance for some gory predictions of how that might go..
>
>Stan
>
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
>[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>Navarrette, Vance
>Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 7:13 PM
>To: Peter Chalk; DLylis at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
>Subject: Re: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
>
>         Peter:
>
>         There are some powered subwoofers designed to fit under a car
>seat. Has anyone tried one of those?
>
>         Vance
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as cregg.cowan at sri.com

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Wed Feb 13 17:42:43 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Wed, 13 Feb 2008 19:42:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
In-Reply-To: <6.2.0.14.2.20080213160241.04c12e28@mail.esd.sri.com>
References: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com> <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E9235@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<6.2.0.14.2.20080213160241.04c12e28@mail.esd.sri.com>
Message-ID: <47B38E83.1040607@maine.rr.com>

Cregg;

Try http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=1970184

Dave
'74-Six

Cregg Cowan wrote:

>Apparently these units are out of stock at most (all?) online stores.
>Has anyone been able to purchase one recently?
>Any good alternatives?
>
>Thanks!
>Cregg Cowan
>
>At 04:47 PM 2/12/2008, Foster, Stan wrote:
>  
>
>>I have one and I think Aaron bought the same one. They are no substitute for
>>some big honking speakers that can move a lot of air but if like me you had a
>>pretty good audio that was just lacking some base they can be adjusted to fill
>>in and it really helps with 60's, 70's rock music which is what I typically
>>listen to in the TR.
>>
>>We got this:
>>
>>http://www.crutchfield.com/S-Vn7WMqhc65N/App/Product/Item/Main.aspx?g=51000&I
>>=105CSBB2
>>
>>I have it on the floor behind the driver seat but I'm thinking it may fit next
>>to the gas tank and I could get it completely out of the way. It comes with a
>>wired remote so you can turn it on and off and adjust it. That flimsy bit of
>>cardboard between you and the gas tank isn't going to do any better impeding
>>the bass than it will when your gas tank ruptures.
>>
>>Queue Vance for some gory predictions of how that might go..
>>
>>Stan
>>
>>
>>-----Original Message-----
>>From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
>>[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
>>Navarrette, Vance
>>Sent: Tuesday, February 12, 2008 7:13 PM
>>To: Peter Chalk; DLylis at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net
>>Subject: Re: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
>>
>>        Peter:
>>
>>        There are some powered subwoofers designed to fit under a car
>>seat. Has anyone tried one of those?
>>
>>        Vance

From chalkp at internode.on.net  Wed Feb 13 19:02:36 2008
From: chalkp at internode.on.net (Peter Chalk)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 12:32:36 +1030
Subject: [6pack] audio power question - how to get bass response
In-Reply-To: <47B38E83.1040607@maine.rr.com>
References: <bd5.25a4567e.34e37d19@aol.com> <47B231BF.6090201@internode.on.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC033E9235@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<6.2.0.14.2.20080213160241.04c12e28@mail.esd.sri.com>
	<47B38E83.1040607@maine.rr.com>
Message-ID: <47B3A13C.4000008@internode.on.net>

I tried to source the JVC unit in Aust yesterday too - to no avail.. 
most places went no-stock abt 2 months ago ... drats

There is a couple of alternatives
- Blaupunkt THB200A Active Subwoofer - larger (deeper) unit

- Clarion SRV314
http://www.clarion.com/us/en/products/2008/audio/subwoofers/SRV314/us-en-product-pf_1172385081088.html 
- also larger


David Friedlander wrote:
> Cregg;
>
> Try http://www.ecrater.com/product.php?pid=1970184
>
> Dave
> '74-Six
>
> Cregg Cowan wrote:

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Thu Feb 14 08:13:02 2008
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 10:13:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rust Repairs
Message-ID: <001201c86f1c$1afcc640$62fea8c0@HunterdaXP>

The last items I have not addressed on my TR6 are the rear trailing arms
bushings and replacing my differential seals.  So, with the car in it's
storage position for the winter, I rolled up underneath and removed the
whole works except for the exhaust system.  I was pretty proud of myself as
it only took about 7 hours.  Probably an actually 3-4 hour job next time but
a lot of looking and scratching the first time.  Have several questions, one
a quickie and the other more subjective.

Easy one:  The parking brake cable has a square block that bolts through the
trailing arm.  The small stud on the block broke off.  What is suggested as
a way of repair without replacing the cable?

More subjective is regarding the rust I uncovered.  One trailing arm support
has small to moderate rust on the bottom side of the box beam.  Is the best
way to repair to just cut this out and replace with stock steel or are their
standard repair sections available that would make the work easier? 

Also, the breastplate has moderate rust on both sides just beneath the inner
side of the frame rails, extending about halfway along the length of the
plate.  Should I just grind off the whole plate and get a new one to weld
on?  Can you properly weld this in place?  I did see on the RATCO site where
they bolted this plate in place.  Maybe this is a preferred approach but how
do you fasten the bolts without weakening the frame.  Maybe this is only
possible with RATCO frame modifications.  Thanks for the feedback.  Looking
forward to grinding and cutting on my back this weekend.

 

Darcy Hunter

'73 TR6

No. Easton, MA  

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 14 08:27:30 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 07:27:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rust Repairs
In-Reply-To: <001201c86f1c$1afcc640$62fea8c0@HunterdaXP>
Message-ID: <209162.39034.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Darcy,

Not sure about the cables, but Vicky Brit's sale is
goin' on right now...might be a good time to replace??
 Though I'm not a huge fan of theirs.  

Yeah, cut out the metal & weld steel in place. 
Naturally easier if it's on a lift...YRMV.  The
t-shirt section...that's a potential "can 'o worms". 
It may be perfectly fine under it & should you drive
it for years in dry weather, you may never have to
worry about it, but if you're like me, you may choose
to grind it off & see what's underneath.  You
MAY(notice i said MAY) have rust and even holes under
it.  If you're lucky, the rust will only be on the
bottom side.  Again, it may be nothing.  

Todd



--- "Hunter, Darcy" <Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com> wrote:

> The last items I have not addressed on my TR6 are
> the rear trailing arms
> bushings and replacing my differential seals.  So,
> with the car in it's
> storage position for the winter, I rolled up
> underneath and removed the
> whole works except for the exhaust system.  I was
> pretty proud of myself as
> it only took about 7 hours.  Probably an actually
> 3-4 hour job next time but
> a lot of looking and scratching the first time. 
> Have several questions, one
> a quickie and the other more subjective.
> 
> Easy one:  The parking brake cable has a square
> block that bolts through the
> trailing arm.  The small stud on the block broke
> off.  What is suggested as
> a way of repair without replacing the cable?
> 
> More subjective is regarding the rust I uncovered. 
> One trailing arm support
> has small to moderate rust on the bottom side of the
> box beam.  Is the best
> way to repair to just cut this out and replace with
> stock steel or are their
> standard repair sections available that would make
> the work easier? 
> 
> Also, the breastplate has moderate rust on both
> sides just beneath the inner
> side of the frame rails, extending about halfway
> along the length of the
> plate.  Should I just grind off the whole plate and
> get a new one to weld
> on?  Can you properly weld this in place?  I did see
> on the RATCO site where
> they bolted this plate in place.  Maybe this is a
> preferred approach but how
> do you fasten the bolts without weakening the frame.
>  Maybe this is only
> possible with RATCO frame modifications.  Thanks for
> the feedback.  Looking
> forward to grinding and cutting on my back this
> weekend.
> 
>  
> 
> Darcy Hunter
> 
> '73 TR6
> 
> No. Easton, MA  



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com  Thu Feb 14 08:32:41 2008
From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 10:32:41 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rust Repairs
In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D659492@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <001201c86f1c$1afcc640$62fea8c0@HunterdaXP>
	<7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D659492@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <002001c86f1e$d985dd70$62fea8c0@HunterdaXP>

Thanks Stan.  The passenger side is all good but the drivers side is the
questionable one.  Looking at it, it seems that the tube is bad for the set
of holes not in use and the lower tube on the inboard mounting bracket.  I
was planning on trying to replace those.  Taking out the whole TA mounting,
seems like a real pain.
Darcy

-----Original Message-----
From: Foster, Stan [mailto:stan.foster at hp.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 10:24 AM
To: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com
Subject: RE: [6pack] Frame Rust Repairs

Darcy, one word of caution.. The section that supports the TA's have
internal reinforcing that allows the TA bracket mounting bolts to be torqued
up without crushing the box section. If the box section itself is showing
signs of severe corrosion (and many do) there is a possibility that the
internal structure of the box section is also compromised and the best thing
is to cut out the whole section and replace it with a new one. So before I
started patching this area I would want to be really sure the rest of it was
solid and it was not going to collapse on me some time later. Once you
remove the TA bracket bolts you can get a better look at this area and the
tubes that provide the reinforcing.

Stan

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 14 10:39:57 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 11:39:57 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rust Repairs
References: <001201c86f1c$1afcc640$62fea8c0@HunterdaXP>
Message-ID: <003701c86f30$eb9bd1b0$f901010a@garage.local>

just what were you scratching???


  Probably an actually 3-4 hour job next time but
> a lot of looking and scratching the first time.  Have several questions, 
> one
> a quickie and the other more subjective.

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 14 14:38:05 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 13:38:05 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rust Repairs
In-Reply-To: <001201c86f1c$1afcc640$62fea8c0@HunterdaXP>
References: <001201c86f1c$1afcc640$62fea8c0@HunterdaXP>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0343B891@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Darcy:

	There are repair sections for the frame available from Rimmer
Brothers. From what you are describing that may be overkill, however.
	You can cut away one side of a frame rail and replace it with
some 16AWG steel. What you may find is that there is a lot more rot
internal to the frame member, in which case you can go ahead and replace
the whole frame section with a Rimmer brothers repair piece.
	Likewise for the T-shirt pressing. Grind the welds off around
the edges and remove the bottom pressing, you will have a lot better
idea of what if anything needs to be replaced after you get the pressing
off the frame.
	You should make a thorough assessment of the frame before
ordering anything from Rimmer, as shipping really chews you up in a
hurry. Better to combine all the bits into one order and be done with
it.

	Cheers,

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Hunter, Darcy
Sent: Thursday, February 14, 2008 7:13 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Frame Rust Repairs

<snip>


More subjective is regarding the rust I uncovered.  One trailing arm
support
has small to moderate rust on the bottom side of the box beam.  Is the
best
way to repair to just cut this out and replace with stock steel or are
their
standard repair sections available that would make the work easier?

Also, the breastplate has moderate rust on both sides just beneath the
inner
side of the frame rails, extending about halfway along the length of the
plate.  Should I just grind off the whole plate and get a new one to
weld
on?  Can you properly weld this in place?  I did see on the RATCO site
where
they bolted this plate in place.  Maybe this is a preferred approach but
how
do you fasten the bolts without weakening the frame.  Maybe this is only
possible with RATCO frame modifications.  Thanks for the feedback.
Looking
forward to grinding and cutting on my back this weekend.



Darcy Hunter

'73 TR6

No. Easton, MA

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Thu Feb 14 19:15:37 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 21:15:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Needed Window Found THANK YOU
Message-ID: <e343023f0802141815w5c4c6b0dh1e6018a044b9e352@mail.gmail.com>

Fellow TR6 enthusiasts:
Your response to my request for the drivers side glass was overwhelming and
much appreciated. I found one at British Racing Green that Bob Gannon
recommended that is being shipped out tomorrow.  Thank you all.

Bob Fabie

From alwinbj at msn.com  Thu Feb 14 19:40:04 2008
From: alwinbj at msn.com (Brian)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 20:40:04 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Fuel Line Routing Question
In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071B5D659162@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <BAY134-DAV247CE6C362B3C22EDAF28B0260@phx.gbl>

Dear Enthusiasts:

Is there someone on-list that might have a digital picture they could send
me off-list? I am looking for the routing of the fuel line from the frame,
adjacent the left rear shock absorber, to where it turns upward and enters
the boot. When I put my car together a few years ago, I wasn't sure how the
routing went (I guessed), and it has bothered me since. It seems too close
to the moving parts in the suspension. The car is a '72 TR6 CC79085. 

Many thanks,

Brian J. Alwin
Minnesnowta

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 14 20:43:37 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 14 Feb 2008 21:43:37 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $3,000 Recieved so far
Message-ID: <000801c86f84$f3a1e9e0$800101df@garage.local>

Thank you, all of you!  Just a few more checks and I'll be able to fix my
Honda . . .

c/o Sumton Network Services, Inc
3767 Forest Lane
Suite 124-335
Dallas, TX 75244-7100

please make checks out to the Red River Triumph Club

From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com  Fri Feb 15 07:30:09 2008
From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 09:30:09 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Fuel Line Routing Question
In-Reply-To: <001501c86f7c$11aff070$0b01a8c0@grace>
Message-ID: <OF316C5AFA.3B31B026-ON852573F0.004F82D5-852573F0.004FAA59@us.ibm.com>

Actually, I could use this information also if someone has the picture
Brain's looking for. May it could be posted on the forum for all to see.
Thanks!

Dave






             "Brian"
             <alwinbj at msn.com>
             Sent by:                                                   To
             6pack-bounces+dbj         <6pack at autox.team.net>
             ohnso=us.ibm.com@                                          cc
             autox.team.net
                                                                   Subject
                                       [6pack] Fuel Line Routing Question
             02/14/2008 09:40
             PM








Dear Enthusiasts:

Is there someone on-list that might have a digital picture they could send
me off-list? I am looking for the routing of the fuel line from the frame,
adjacent the left rear shock absorber, to where it turns upward and enters
the boot. When I put my car together a few years ago, I wasn't sure how the
routing went (I guessed), and it has bothered me since. It seems too close
to the moving parts in the suspension. The car is a '72 TR6 CC79085.

Many thanks,

Brian J. Alwin
Minnesnowta
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as dbjohnso at us.ibm.com

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of graycol.gif]

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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 15 21:35:28 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 22:35:28 -0600
Subject: [6pack] a little help on carbs and keys
References: <715-479A4E7F-1692@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <000701c87055$5f597b50$800101df@garage.local>

TR6 CC28418, made on Jan 1, 1969 according to the plate (seems implausible 
to me), followed me home today.

Ostensibly to be refurbished and sold, although i'm rather fond of it. 
SWMBO says i can keep it, but another one must go :-(

anyway, some questions.  it came with no keys.  what's my best option?

two - could someone send me some pictures (offline) of a 69 carburettor 
setup?  mine came in a box.  they're not quite like my 72, which has been 
converted to goodparts 3 carb anyway (free plug!).  piggot has some which 
help, and bentley and haynes also help, but photos would be really helpful.

one headrest folds down with some force.  the other one doesn't.  is there a 
switch or is it just rusted in and should i just really force it?  what will 
i break?

thanks. 

From browder3 at bellsouth.net  Sat Feb 16 13:07:25 2008
From: browder3 at bellsouth.net (John Browder)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 15:07:25 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR-6 Collection for Sale or TRADE
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1203188401.11384.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1203188401.11384.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <7E9DE722-3C6D-4FDD-9417-5F444D9012E4@bellsouth.net>

I still have a number of solid TR-6's for sale:
	7 Solid cars including a restored authentic CR-series RHD PI '73
	2 Parts Cars
	Loads of parts

A friend enticed me to part with the two best cars, but there is  
plenty left.  Check out this website for all the info:
http://web.mac.com/jbrowder/TR-6_Site/Home.html

These cars are priced to move at $39,500.


I really do not want to separate the lot.  I would trade for like value:
	Austin Healey BJ8
	71-74 Automatic E-type Roadster
	1968-71 Mercedes 280SL

Cash plus 1987-89 Mercedes 560SL or Tiptronic Porsche 964

From saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk  Sat Feb 16 13:15:26 2008
From: saffrontr at tiscali.co.uk (Derek)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 20:15:26 -0000
Subject: [6pack] a little help on carbs and keys
In-Reply-To: <mailman.9.1203188401.11384.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.9.1203188401.11384.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <002301c870d8$abc85960$af414d4f@TR6>

Oliver,

I've sent you a scan of a factory image showing the underbonnet of
CC27025LO. Hope that it helps. The date on the plate on your car is not the
build date and is actually confirmation that your TR6 complied with the US
Federal Safety Standards applicable on the 1st January 1969. CC28418 would
have been built during w/c 10th February 1969. The plates for the 1970 model
onwards did include a month and year of build.

Derek   
CP54529-O


----------------------------------------------------------------------

Message: 1
Date: Fri, 15 Feb 2008 22:35:28 -0600
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
Subject: [6pack] a little help on carbs and keys
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <000701c87055$5f597b50$800101df at garage.local>
Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1";
	reply-type=original

TR6 CC28418, made on Jan 1, 1969 according to the plate (seems implausible 
to me), followed me home today.

Ostensibly to be refurbished and sold, although i'm rather fond of it. 
SWMBO says i can keep it, but another one must go :-(

anyway, some questions.  it came with no keys.  what's my best option?

two - could someone send me some pictures (offline) of a 69 carburettor 
setup?  mine came in a box.  they're not quite like my 72, which has been 
converted to goodparts 3 carb anyway (free plug!).  piggot has some which 
help, and bentley and haynes also help, but photos would be really helpful.

one headrest folds down with some force.  the other one doesn't.  is there a

switch or is it just rusted in and should i just really force it?  what will

i break?

thanks. 


------------------------------

_______________________________________________
6pack mailing list
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack


End of 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 73
************************************

From apackard68 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 16 16:00:38 2008
From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard)
Date: Sat, 16 Feb 2008 15:00:38 -0800
Subject: [6pack] December 2007 VTR magazine identification!
Message-ID: <20080216230228.B975418766D@autox.team.net>

I was a bit surprised to open up my Dec 2007 VTR magazine I received
yesterday to see my car on page 14, twice!  I happened to be on the end of
the middle row for the Saturday Funcours and ended up as the centerpiece of
the River Palms picture.  I'm also the middle autocross picture ("no ID on
this Auto-X participant") as I race with my stepson, Noah.  We ended up
winning the TR250 class and then broke the fastest time twice in our fun
runs.  It gives a good picture of my 17X7 wheels that give a slightly
updated look and performance with lower profile tires.  

 

Currently, the car just completed its body work and is going to the media
blaster on Monday.  The rockers were replaced and the front L wheel well had
a kink pulled out as well as some straightening of some other minor areas.
The body shop chemically stripped the broad pieces that would be at risk for
warping and the media blaster will be shooting the tub and the edges of the
loose panels.  We decided to fill in the pinhole rust at the base of the B
pillars based on advice from the list (thanks Todd and Kevin and thanks to
Joe for offering potential parts!).  

 

Andy

CD6746L

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 17 12:33:18 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 13:33:18 -0600
Subject: [6pack] "new" 69 TR6
References: <d03.253a491a.34a11710@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c8719b$f3be8c80$7d15a8c0@garage.local>

for those of you who are curious, here's the car that followed me home on
Friday.  anyone have a thought on why the head is painted red?  The PO 
didn't know either.

yesterday i was able to turn the engine over using the ignition (I am using 
the trunk key from my 72 but a screwdriver works, too).  Apparently the lock 
is no longer a lock.

more to come i'm sure!!!!

http://www.ranteer.com/davescars/TR6_69/snaps/

(the lurker is a 39 Buick I stumbled on a few weeks ago)

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Sun Feb 17 17:06:37 2008
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 19:06:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
Message-ID: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>

Anyone use one of these stand-up types with the flexible hose?
Normally I use a plastic bucket and kerosene, but I'm thinking about
buying something like this:

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340

or this

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94994

The manuals say not to use kerosene or other flammables, but the store
clerk said mineral spirits is OK.   Not sure that mineral spirits is
any less flammable than kerosene - anyone know better?

Any advice appreciated.

John North

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Sun Feb 17 17:33:19 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 19:33:19 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCIEFKFMAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Hi,

I was always one to use kerosene or even gasoline at times but a word of
caution. Three years ago a good friend lost his teenage son when the son
dropped a trouble light near a parts washer filled with kerosene. In the
ensuing fire the washer spilled it's contents and the son burned to death on
the shop floor. My friend has since returned to work in the same shop and
everyday is a struggle.

I'd insist on a regular non-flammable washer fluid.

Rick Patton
75 TR6sci
http://pattonmachine.com/


> Of John North
> Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 7:07 PM
> To: Triumph 6 Pack
> Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
>

> Anyone use one of these stand-up types with the flexible hose?
> Normally I use a plastic bucket and kerosene, but I'm thinking about
> buying something like this:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340
>
> or this
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94994
>
> The manuals say not to use kerosene or other flammables, but the store
> clerk said mineral spirits is OK.   Not sure that mineral spirits is
> any less flammable than kerosene - anyone know better?
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> John North
> _______________________________________________

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Feb 17 17:38:55 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 17:38:55 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <47B8D39F.2080009@tscusa.org>

John North wrote:
> Anyone use one of these stand-up types with the flexible hose?
> Normally I use a plastic bucket and kerosene, but I'm thinking about
> buying something like this:
>
> http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340
>
> The manuals say not to use kerosene or other flammables, but the store
> clerk said mineral spirits is OK.   Not sure that mineral spirits is
> any less flammable than kerosene - anyone know better?
>
> Any advice appreciated.
>
> John North
>   
John,
I bought the 20 gallon parts washer when it was on sale for $49.95.  I 
did not like the shelf , the 20 gallons of degreaser and the pump taking 
up room inside the tub.  So I went to the hardware store, bought a 
standard sink drain, a 5 gallon plastic tub, a drain valve, and put the 
pump and degreaser all in the tub on the storage shelf under the tub.  
So no storage of degreaser in the tub, no shelf to get in the way.
The inside paint will be gone in a few months of use.

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From DLylis at aol.com  Sun Feb 17 17:49:59 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 19:49:59 EST
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
Message-ID: <bda.21fcdebc.34ea3037@aol.com>

I have always believed that paint thinner (mineral spirits) is less  
flammable but maybe I am being naive.  It is certainly not non flammable  though. 
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Feb 17 17:50:15 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 17:50:15 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
In-Reply-To: <47B8D39F.2080009@tscusa.org>
References: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
	<47B8D39F.2080009@tscusa.org>
Message-ID: <47B8D647.1030704@tscusa.org>

Glenn A. Merrell wrote:
> John,
> I bought the 20 gallon parts washer when it was on sale for $49.95.  I 
> did not like the shelf , the 20 gallons of degreaser and the pump taking 
> up room inside the tub.  So I went to the hardware store, bought a 
> standard sink drain, a 5 gallon plastic tub, a drain valve, and put the 
> pump and degreaser all in the tub on the storage shelf under the tub.  
> So no storage of degreaser in the tub, no shelf to get in the way.
> The inside paint will be gone in a few months of use.
>
>   
Right ... and I use all water based detergent degreasers like Oil Eater 
or Castrol Degreaser

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 17 17:53:12 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 19:53:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001501c871c8$a57d2860$6601a8c0@Robert>

Anyone use one of these stand-up types with the flexible hose?
Normally I use a plastic bucket and kerosene, but I'm thinking about
buying something like this.


IMHO do not waste your money. How do I know? Silly question!!!
I bought one, assembled it and put simple green in it as I did not want the
fumes to be over powering and possibly flammable.

First, the simple green lifted the paint. Then the pump failed and corroded
and fell apart. I threw away the pump, went to clean out the simple green
only to cut myself on the lip that holds the tray. Then I find the base
rusting.

Since then, I use three five gallon buckets with carb cleaner which I filter
every so often. I have a system of three buckets. I put the part in the
first one to get the worst off. Soak it so I do less work. Then I go to the
second after rinsing the part off with brake cleaner. The second gets the
more off but it is not fighting the crap. The final one cleans the item so
with a final rinse I end up with a nice clean item. The three buckets have
their three levels of dirt and also strength to clean. When I get a fresh
gallon of carb cleaner I make that my final stage and recycle the dirtiest
at the local Pep Boys. I use heavy duty chemical resisting rubber gloves.
The buckets being plastic with snap on lids stay outside under my deck.





Robert L. Gannon
http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 17 18:00:03 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 20:00:03 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
References: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <001601c871c9$98f94fa0$6601a8c0@Robert>

Another way is to go to a Restaurant equipment store and buy a stainless
steel chafer unit. It has a big deep stainless pan and a lid. 24.99 at
Costco. 

Robert L. Gannon
http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html

From whitetr6 at gmail.com  Sun Feb 17 20:58:39 2008
From: whitetr6 at gmail.com (Mark)
Date: Sun, 17 Feb 2008 22:58:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
In-Reply-To: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCIEFKFMAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>
References: <49f668fe0802171606r560ca97co2c833ead364de1d1@mail.gmail.com>
	<POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCIEFKFMAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>
Message-ID: <1f81f7e00802171958k3ffbf39cv9b4ff100e28e27e8@mail.gmail.com>

Rick, that's a terrible, sad story. I can't imagine how your friend must
have felt.

I had the same experience others mentioned about paint lifting and pumps
failing. I decided next time I'd get a better one, and did so from Eastwood.
It's powder coated, and this time, no more problems. For the fluid, I figure
if I can't get it clean with a non-flammable fluid, I'll pitch the part and
buy new. So far Simple Green has been fine.
Mark

On Feb 17, 2008 7:33 PM, Rick <patton at suscom-maine.net> wrote:

> Hi,
>
> I was always one to use kerosene or even gasoline at times but a word of
> caution. Three years ago a good friend lost his teenage son when the son
> dropped a trouble light near a parts washer filled with kerosene. In the
> ensuing fire the washer spilled it's contents and the son burned to death
> on
> the shop floor. My friend has since returned to work in the same shop and
> everyday is a struggle.
>
> I'd insist on a regular non-flammable washer fluid.
>
> Rick Patton
> 75 TR6sci
> http://pattonmachine.com/
>
>
> > Of John North
> > Sent: Sunday, February 17, 2008 7:07 PM
> > To: Triumph 6 Pack
> > Subject: [6pack] Parts washers
> >
>
> > Anyone use one of these stand-up types with the flexible hose?
> > Normally I use a plastic bucket and kerosene, but I'm thinking about
> > buying something like this:
> >
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=7340
> >
> > or this
> >
> > http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=94994
> >
> > The manuals say not to use kerosene or other flammables, but the store
> > clerk said mineral spirits is OK.   Not sure that mineral spirits is
> > any less flammable than kerosene - anyone know better?
> >
> > Any advice appreciated.
> >
> > John North
> > _______________________________________________
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as whitetr6 at gmail.com
>



-- 
Mark

From rccpl1 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 18 06:35:35 2008
From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 05:35:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] ebay
Message-ID: <545002.24244.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

just some fustration of how when you bid on something for a week and there are no other bidders then all of a sudden all these bidders show up to drive up the price some gimmic

       
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Feb 18 07:09:35 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 09:09:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <545002.24244.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <545002.24244.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001801c87237$e4c03a70$ae40af50$@com>

It is called "sniping".

That is the whole model of the thing.  Every auction I bid on, I wait until
the last few minutes and the majority of the time that is when the best
deals are made.  You are complaining because you are trying to buy something
at a bargain price.  Sorry pal, that is the nature of the beast!

If the shoe were on the other foot, if you were SELLIGN something I would
presume the sentiment would be much different.  You would be HAPPY to see
last minute bidders!

Sniping takes a little practice, but it works!  

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of john
doe
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 08:36
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] ebay

just some fustration of how when you bid on something for a week and there
are no other bidders then all of a sudden all these bidders show up to drive
up the price some gimmic

From 6parts at charter.net  Mon Feb 18 07:36:05 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 09:36:05 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ebay
References: <545002.24244.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
	<001801c87237$e4c03a70$ae40af50$@com>
Message-ID: <004101c8723b$97cc88a0$cd19b318@alan>

Another way to look at it is :
All the days prior to the last minute are the advertising of the auction and 
jockeying for position and weeding out.
The last minute is when you have to be there or have realistic bids placed, 
because thats when the actual auction takes place.

Al

www.triumphowners.com/624

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 18 07:41:05 2008
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 14:41:05 +0000
Subject: [6pack] ebay
Message-ID: <BAY112-W305B4F504B7782EA19C499CF210@phx.gbl>

  The other side is a clock ending the auction on something one really needs.
Can you imagine Sotheby's saying: "I've got 1.5 million, do I hear 1.6"? "I've
got 1.5 million... Oh, I'm sorry, time has run out on this lot" "For our next
lot lasting 3 minutes in duration we have a....
 The eBay model is stupid. I don't think those any idiots have been to a real
auction.

_________________________________________________________________
Climb to the top of the charts! Play the word scramble challenge with star
power.
http://club.live.com/star_shuffle.aspx?icid=starshuffle_wlmailtextlink_jan

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 09:14:25 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 16:14:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] ebay
Message-ID: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>

Oh get real!!!!

As a bidder I want to get the best price, so I wait till the end. If I bid early the price will increase.
As a seller I welcome the last minute bidding as I will get more for my item. If I am expecting a minimum I set a reserve or start the price at what I will accept for my item. With that, I as the seller pay the premiums. If you seriously need the item and there is a buy it now, use the buy it now. If it is a nice to have, wait and bid at the end. Get high speed internet access so your bid goes through quicker.

From lfm614 at aol.com  Mon Feb 18 09:37:31 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 16:37:31 +0000
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
References: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Well I think the way to look at this is what is the most that you are willing to pay for the item.  Enter that for your max bid and it will keep you in the game bidding enough to keep you ahead or download a snipe program and do the same. 

The latter has the advantage that you are not bidding up the sales price with novice bidders.  

As said in a previous post, if you really want it or got to have it and it has a buy it now in your price range use it. 

I just set the snipe program and forget it, I get an e-mail with the result at auction's end. 

Lou
 

-----Original Message-----
From: trsix74 at comcast.net

Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 16:14:25 
To:john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] ebay


Oh get real!!!!

As a bidder I want to get the best price, so I wait till the end. If I bid early the price will increase.
As a seller I welcome the last minute bidding as I will get more for my item. If I am expecting a minimum I set a reserve or start the price at what I will accept for my item. With that, I as the seller pay the premiums. If you seriously need the item and there is a buy it now, use the buy it now. If it is a nice to have, wait and bid at the end. Get high speed internet access so your bid goes through quicker.
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
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You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 18 09:59:08 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 08:59:08 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <448603.25232.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

You don't really even have to download anything....I
use auctionstealer.com (nfi) and it's free, but there
are plenty of others I'm sure.

As stated earlier, there is NO REASON to bid on
anything until the last possible moment.  Just set it
& forget it with the snipe service.  You don't have to
worry about having broadband or a super fast computer.
 That's taken care of for you.

Some people will bid something UP just to see what the
high bid is for the current hi bidder.  The people
using the snipe svcs will usually come in with 10
seconds or less remaining...that's when the real fun
comes in...watching the last 2 seconds.  Just
remember, there usually WON'T be time to make any last
secon bids if you get outbid.  Too late.  Then again,
you should've bid higher if you just HAD TO HAVE it.

Cheers,

Todd


--- lfm614 at aol.com wrote:

> Well I think the way to look at this is what is the
> most that you are willing to pay for the item. 
> Enter that for your max bid and it will keep you in
> the game bidding enough to keep you ahead or
> download a snipe program and do the same. 
> 
> The latter has the advantage that you are not
> bidding up the sales price with novice bidders.  
> 
> As said in a previous post, if you really want it or
> got to have it and it has a buy it now in your price
> range use it. 
> 
> I just set the snipe program and forget it, I get an
> e-mail with the result at auction's end. 
> 
> Lou
>  
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From: trsix74 at comcast.net
> 
> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 16:14:25 
> To:john doe <rccpl1 at yahoo.com>, 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] ebay
> 
> 
> Oh get real!!!!
> 
> As a bidder I want to get the best price, so I wait
> till the end. If I bid early the price will
> increase.
> As a seller I welcome the last minute bidding as I
> will get more for my item. If I am expecting a
> minimum I set a reserve or start the price at what I
> will accept for my item. With that, I as the seller
> pay the premiums. If you seriously need the item and
> there is a buy it now, use the buy it now. If it is
> a nice to have, wait and bid at the end. Get high
> speed internet access so your bid goes through
> quicker.
> _______________________________________________
>


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 10:29:16 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 10:29:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] ebay
References: <545002.24244.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001f01c87253$ca524360$54f30818@rolofson>

The sniper bidding has been covered but there's also a practice known as shill
bidding.  I don't know but eBay may have a way of preventing this or
discouraging it or maybe not at all, but basically some bidders (friends,
family, etc.) are in cahoots with the seller and if it looks like they aren't
going to get the price they want or maybe in an attempt to create buying
hysteria the shill will bid up the price to see if they can get someone to
bite at a higher price.  Usually this can happen all during the bidding not
just at the end like sniper bidding...but it depends on who the shill thinks
they're bidding against...e.g. if they think they have a live one they bid a
lot of times but only enough to be the high bid.  Buyer beware as always.

Bud


71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: john doe
  To: 6pack at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 6:35 AM
  Subject: [6pack] ebay


  just some fustration of how when you bid on something for a week and there
are no other bidders then all of a sudden all these bidders show up to drive
up the price some gimmic


  ---------------------------------
  Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it
now.
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu  Mon Feb 18 10:58:04 2008
From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 10:58:04 -0700
Subject: [6pack] ebay
Message-ID: <47BB8E59@webmail.colostate.edu>

I usually just place a bid at the most I am willing to pay. Don't get too 
excited about actually "winning" anything until I actually have. If it goes 
for more than I am willing to pay then so be it. The world won't end. Not 
worried about bidding early and showing my hand as it won't matter to snipers 
anyway. Possibly to shill bidders but I usually wait for the email 
notification that I have been outbid or that I have "won" before I even look 
at the item again.

The sun does not rise and set with ebay auctions. Maybe I just don't get 
caught up in it.

Someone said earlier that it is not like a real auction, your right its not, 
but some 'real' auctions even have time limits set for items. The decision to 
keep trying for bids or to sell it when bidding slows is up to the auctioneer 
who knows, and aometimes sets, the rules for that particular auction.

just my $.02

Shawn

>===== Original Message From "levilevi" <levilevi at comcast.net> =====
>The sniper bidding has been covered but there's also a practice known as 
shill
>bidding.  I don't know but eBay may have a way of preventing this or
>discouraging it or maybe not at all, but basically some bidders (friends,
>family, etc.) are in cahoots with the seller and if it looks like they aren't
>going to get the price they want or maybe in an attempt to create buying
>hysteria the shill will bid up the price to see if they can get someone to
>bite at a higher price.  Usually this can happen all during the bidding not
>just at the end like sniper bidding...but it depends on who the shill thinks
>they're bidding against...e.g. if they think they have a live one they bid a
>lot of times but only enough to be the high bid.  Buyer beware as always.
>
>Bud
>
>
>71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
>66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
>66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
>71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
>Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
>  ----- Original Message -----
>  From: john doe
>  To: 6pack at autox.team.net
>  Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 6:35 AM
>  Subject: [6pack] ebay
>
>
>  just some fustration of how when you bid on something for a week and there
>are no other bidders then all of a sudden all these bidders show up to drive
>up the price some gimmic

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb 18 11:48:32 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 10:48:32 -0800
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <545002.24244.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <545002.24244.qm@web30407.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345EBD8@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Jon:

	This is the experience I went through when getting obscure parts
for the TR6 from eBay. Don't bid until the last minute, because someone
else will just decide to bid more. No point in letting anyone know what
you are up to until the last possible minute.
	Also, don't be surprised if the seller or one of his buddies is
driving up the bids. It has been clear to me for a long time that some
people put things up for sale, and then use another account to drive up
the bids. A clue is that a bidder with 0 feedback is suddenly bidding in
large increments. Frequently this is when there is a reserve on an item,
and the bidding is apparently no where near the reserve. Suddenly a user
with 0 feedback starts bidding in large increments to drive the bids
toward the reserve, and perhaps trying to generate excitement over the
item. I have seen the same 0 feedback bidder bid three times in a row
(essentially bidding against himself) in large increments. Very
suspicious.
	Under those circumstances I stop bidding and walk away. When I
was shopping for a mini and bidding on a car I saw this behavior
repeatedly. I ended up not buying through eBay. Sometimes that is all
you can do.

	Cheers,

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of john doe
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 5:36 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] ebay

just some fustration of how when you bid on something for a week and
there are no other bidders then all of a sudden all these bidders show
up to drive up the price some gimmic

From rnorris1 at swbell.net  Mon Feb 18 12:59:05 2008
From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 13:59:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Regarding "shill" bidders on eBay
Message-ID: <47B9E389.6070008@swbell.net>

I have seen exactly what you've described on eBay but also been curious; 
if the shill bidder scares all other bidders away, doesn't eBay get a 
fee for that sale? Or is this one where the successful bidder disappears 
and the item gets relisted?

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 18 16:25:16 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:25:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ebay
Message-ID: <29063467.1855521203377116884.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>

I never bid until the very last 5 - 10 seconds so I always show up at literally the last minte. I also use an eBay countdown timer that is tied into the eBay official auction clock. That way I know exactly whre I stand relative to the auction end time.

Bob Danielson

just some fustration of how when you bid on something for a week and there are 
no other bidders then all of a sudden all these bidders show up to drive up the 
price some gimmic

       
---------------------------------
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now.
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From motrv8d at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 18 16:33:12 2008
From: motrv8d at hotmail.com (Gene Holtzclaw)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 23:33:12 +0000
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <29063467.1855521203377116884.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>
References: <29063467.1855521203377116884.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>
Message-ID: <BAY138-W14B3C61C129BCF8BE23432E1210@phx.gbl>

For what its worth, here is one of the reasons I wait until the last 30
seconds or so to bid. I like to collect anything TR6. There was a sales
brochure once on e-bay that I knew I didn't have. The seller had a min bid of
.50. The problem was, I wasn't going to be able to be at my computer when the
bid ended. So, thinking at that time, $5.00 was the most ANYBODY would pay for
a single fold sales brochure, I put in $20.00, lol. When I got back to my
computer, 1 bidder had sat there and bid in .50 increments until he/she beat
my $20.00 bid.

When I first started buying on e-bay, I realized that if I bid on something
during the week it was up, I was only bidding against myself, as it was I that
was setting the price at that time.> From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To:
6pack at autox.team.net> To: rccpl1 at yahoo.com> Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 18:25:16
-0500> Subject: Re: [6pack] ebay> > I never bid until the very last 5 - 10
seconds so I always show up at literally the last minte. I also use an eBay
countdown timer that is tied into the eBay official auction clock. That way I
know exactly whre I stand relative to the auction end time.> > Bob Danielson>
> just some fustration of how when you bid on something for a week and there
are > no other bidders then all of a sudden all these bidders show up to drive
up the > price some gimmic> > > ---------------------------------> Be a better
friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it > now.>
6pack at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> >
http://www.team.net/archive> > You are subscribed as
75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as motrv8d at hotmail.com
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From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 17:08:38 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:08:38 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
	<357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <000401c8728b$949c9710$6601a8c0@Robert>

Fake bidders. See Item number: 130197832385 on Ebay. Perfect example of
someone trying to meet the reserve price and then entice bidders to outbid
each other.

 I must say my TR3 would sure look and run great with that in it. I would
also look pretty bad not being able to get into my own house!!!! (As in
STHTPS = She that holds the purse strings)


Robert L. Gannon
http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb 18 17:22:59 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 16:22:59 -0800
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <000401c8728b$949c9710$6601a8c0@Robert>
References: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net><357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<000401c8728b$949c9710$6601a8c0@Robert>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345ED2E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Robert:

	Perfect example of what I have been talking about. There is a
reserve AND a buy it now price. A shill bidder with 0 feedback bids
multiple times (frequently bidding against himself) to push the bids up
close to the "buy it now" price and presumably will stop just short of
the reserve.
	Sadly, there appears to be a legitimate bidder who has not
caught on and wants the item, so he is still bidding.  <sigh> Poor
bastard.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 4:09 PM
To: lfm614 at aol.com; 'john doe'; 'TR-6 list'
Subject: Re: [6pack] ebay

Fake bidders. See Item number: 130197832385 on Ebay. Perfect example of
someone trying to meet the reserve price and then entice bidders to
outbid
each other.

 I must say my TR3 would sure look and run great with that in it. I
would
also look pretty bad not being able to get into my own house!!!! (As in
STHTPS = She that holds the purse strings)


Robert L. Gannon

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Feb 18 17:35:47 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:35:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345ED2E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net><357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<000401c8728b$949c9710$6601a8c0@Robert>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345ED2E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <000401c8728f$5f9047c0$1eb0d740$@com>

Well...

Not trying to stir the pot, but if it bothers you guys so much then why not
go through the channels and report the issue to eBay as fraud??  

I'm not 100% thrilled with eBay, but I have been able to get some pretty
interesting things via them that otherwise I would not have today.  I am
sure each and every one of you guys has done that too.

I recall when we discussed mirrors somebody spoke up and basically put the
end to the thread because it was starting to get very stale...  I'm sure we
have better things to talk about.

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 17:43:56 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:43:56 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <000401c8728f$5f9047c0$1eb0d740$@com>
References: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net><357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<000401c8728b$949c9710$6601a8c0@Robert>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345ED2E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<000401c8728f$5f9047c0$1eb0d740$@com>
Message-ID: <000501c87290$83218bd0$6601a8c0@Robert>

Yep your right. Lets discuss tire sizes...........we haven't done that for
two weeks!

Robert L. Gannon

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Mon Feb 18 17:47:38 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 17:47:38 -0700
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
Message-ID: <005c01c87291$06965900$95c67b80@nmsu.edu>

OK-  Tire sizes:  If I want to use 30 series tires on 20" chrome wheels, how
much will I have to chop off my fenders, or could I use Bondo to make fender
flairs to fit over the tires?





L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA



New Mexico State University

505-646-2485

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Feb 18 17:54:11 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 19:54:11 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <000501c87290$83218bd0$6601a8c0@Robert>
References: <021820081614.19267.47B9AEE10002D54E00004B432200751090CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net><357478943-1203352820-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-571323078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<000401c8728b$949c9710$6601a8c0@Robert>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345ED2E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<000401c8728f$5f9047c0$1eb0d740$@com>
	<000501c87290$83218bd0$6601a8c0@Robert>
Message-ID: <000501c87291$f19c0ee0$d4d42ca0$@com>

Actually, I think a better subject would be regular vs silicone brake
fluid...

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

From bratt at sasktel.net  Mon Feb 18 20:44:16 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 21:44:16 -0600
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
References: <005c01c87291$06965900$95c67b80@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <001801c872a9$b3a873e0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

Kevin:

I hope the wheels and tires are for your Pacer.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 6:47 PM
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)


> OK-  Tire sizes:  If I want to use 30 series tires on 20" chrome wheels, 
> how
> much will I have to chop off my fenders, or could I use Bondo to make 
> fender
> flairs to fit over the tires?
>
>
>
>
>
> L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA
>
>
>
> New Mexico State University
>
> 505-646-2485
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
> image001.gif]
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net
>
>
> -- 
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.7/1285 - Release Date: 2/18/2008 
> 5:50 AM

From Pimento73 at aol.com  Mon Feb 18 21:04:16 2008
From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 23:04:16 EST
Subject: [6pack] ebay
Message-ID: <d06.277d7eeb.34ebaf40@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/18/2008 7:54:42 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,  
grant at bowtie6.com writes:

Actually, I think a better subject would be regular vs silicone  brake
fluid...





yeah, me too, but i just read this thread and I've got to say one  thing - I 
don't know how some of you guys think you "know" when there is shill  bidding 
- I "sold" a set of wheels 2 weeks ago on ebay to a dirt bag with  zero 
feedback who said he was local and would pick them up and pay cash - long  story 
short, the sorry louse never showed up and wouldn't pay for them -  now the 
wheels are re-listed and I suppose suma you clowns think I had a shill  bidding - 
ridiculous - but his time I specified no bidders with zero feedback  and set a 
"buy-it-now" price at the previous high bid - i'll bet they don't  got for 
that much this time, though.
 
Cheers,
Jack Mc 



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Feb 18 21:15:17 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:15:17 -0800
Subject: [6pack] 6PACK Topics
Message-ID: <7679-47BA57D5-4105@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>

I for one dont mind opening up mail and seeing that someone wants to
know about:

Brake fluid,
tires sizes,
which Black paint,
mirrors,
shocks,

so long as it relates directly to the TR Six, as in "6pack". That is
what this list is for. That is what the Club is for.

There are new subscribers coming in nearly every day that haven't seen
the info before.

On the other hand, the list should not be used to promote events that
have nothing to do with the Six...There. I've said it.

Dick Taylor
'73 TR6

From 6parts at charter.net  Mon Feb 18 23:14:30 2008
From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 01:14:30 -0500
Subject: [6pack] throttle shaft bushings
Message-ID: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan>

The rubber bushings that go on the Carburetor throttle shaft:

Does the solid side go on the outside of the carb body or towards the inside.

I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the old ones out.

thanks

Al

From levilevi at comcast.net  Mon Feb 18 23:41:23 2008
From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 23:41:23 -0700
Subject: [6pack] throttle shaft bushings
References: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan>
Message-ID: <003201c872c2$72a1d710$54f30818@rolofson>

Solid side out.

Bud

71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6)
66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts)
66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project)
71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle)
Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike)
  ----- Original Message -----
  From: Alan Salvatore
  To: 6pack ; triumphs at autox.team.net
  Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 11:14 PM
  Subject: [6pack] throttle shaft bushings


  The rubber bushings that go on the Carburetor throttle shaft:

  Does the solid side go on the outside of the carb body or towards the
inside.

  I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the old ones out.

  thanks

  Al
  _______________________________________________

  Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

  6pack at autox.team.net
  http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

  http://www.team.net/archive

  You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net

From acs25m at swbell.net  Tue Feb 19 02:34:55 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 01:34:55 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild
Message-ID: <752560.62924.qm@web81606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

I have a question for the list. What is the best way to get oil pressure up on a newly rebuilt engine. It is a TR250 with a new oil pump,bearings and rings. Assembly lube was generously used in the rebuild. Should I just turn the engine over sans plugs or would I be better off to make a connecting piece and turn the pump with a drill motor?
  John Maneke
  TR250
  CD3025L

From johnlink1 at comcast.net  Tue Feb 19 04:15:38 2008
From: johnlink1 at comcast.net (John Linkosky)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 06:15:38 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Shill Bidding on Ebay
Message-ID: <002101c872e8$c29939e0$47cbada0$@net>

There is a particular seller in the state of Ohio who lists and sells a good
number of old british sports cars. He has recently sold a couple of Healeys
and an MGTC, as well as a Jaguar and others. I have been following his
auctions for a couple of years after I bought a car off of him (not off
ebay) and discovered he outright lied to me about the ownership history of
the car, the duration of his ownership and several other things, including
the mechanical condition of the vehicle. I did inspect the car before I
bought it and, aside from being lied to, am not dissatisfied with my
purchase. I noticed that the same two bidders always bid on his auctions,
repeatedly, but never enter a bid that meets reserve. They always seem to
stop a few dollars short of actually buying the car. Before ebay started
hiding the identities of the bidders, I was able to check out items for sale
by the other two bidders and lo and behold, they were selling cars from the
same garage as the seller. I had been there and it was easily recognizable
from the photographs of the vehicles listed.  I have reported this guy to
ebay no fewer than eight times and ebay refuses to suspend him or take any
action to end the shill bidding. I even pointed out that the cars for sale
by the seller were visible in the photos of the cars for sale by the shill
bidders. Ebay did not care.  Since ebay now refuses to list the identities
of bidders, you can no longer see items for sale by bidders and it is more
difficult to detect the shill bidding.  One indication is numerous bids by
the same or a couple of the same bidders without the item meeting reserve. I
also noticed that items which are being shilled will often have many more
bids than similar items that are not. For example, the unshilled big healey
may have 8 or 10 bids over the course of 7 day auction. In the know shill
auctions I have observed, a big healey may have 40 or 50 bids over the same
time period. The bottom line is only bid what you are willing to pay,
regardless of how much interest others may have in the item. Always inspect
the vehicle before you agree to buy it, or have someone else you trust go
and inspect it. Photos hide a lot. John

From glccrc at ptd.net  Tue Feb 19 04:43:05 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 06:43:05 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 6PACK Topics
In-Reply-To: <7679-47BA57D5-4105@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <20080219114318.7E2BD18767A@autox.team.net>

The next 2 posts confirm this- where else can you ask a "which way bushing
sits?" question at 1:15 AM and have an answer at 1:42 AM ?????

George Church
70 6

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Sally or
Dick Taylor
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 11:15 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] 6PACK Topics

I for one dont mind opening up mail and seeing that someone wants to
know about:

Brake fluid,
tires sizes,
which Black paint,
mirrors,
shocks,

so long as it relates directly to the TR Six, as in "6pack". That is
what this list is for. That is what the Club is for.

There are new subscribers coming in nearly every day that haven't seen
the info before.

On the other hand, the list should not be used to promote events that
have nothing to do with the Six...There. I've said it.

Dick Taylor
'73 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Tue Feb 19 05:09:18 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (trsix74 at comcast.net)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 12:09:18 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Was 6PACK Topics - beacme bushings- Is now Speedo Cable
Message-ID: <021920081209.1180.47BAC6EE0003ADCF0000049C2207300793CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>

Did you find those bushings on ebay? Oh come on, it's winter and I'm bored!!!!!

Ok serious now. When fitting a new speedo cable can one simply pull the old inner cable out and insert new or does one need to remove and replace the entire unit. Are speedo inner cables and outer sheaths made to match?
Thanks for your help.

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Tue Feb 19 05:49:29 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 12:49:29 +0000
Subject: [6pack] ebay
In-Reply-To: <d06.277d7eeb.34ebaf40@aol.com>
References: <d06.277d7eeb.34ebaf40@aol.com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W39C87D49D15A2BC4A903998E220@phx.gbl>

I know this horse is almost dead, but my .02...

Ebay could easily (imo) fix the whole problem by changing it so that any bid
extended an auctin by 10 minutes. A real auctioneer would never end an auction
with active bidders. It's the whole 'going once, going twice, any more bidders
out there???' thing. That's the problem with Ebay. Also, you hear about so
many car scams on ebay, I can't imagine why anybody would purchase a car they
haven't gone to see first.

Sloane :)
_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Tue Feb 19 06:07:43 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:07:43 -0500
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
References: <005c01c87291$06965900$95c67b80@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <005401c872f8$6a6244a0$0200a8c0@Desktop>

Oh.......I thought you meant 20" height not 20"around
Craig


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Kevin McNelis" <kmcnelis at nmsu.edu>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2008 7:47 PM
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)


> OK-  Tire sizes:  If I want to use 30 series tires on 20" chrome wheels, 
> how
> much will I have to chop off my fenders, or could I use Bondo to make 
> fender
> flairs to fit over the tires?
>
>
>
>
>
> L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA
>
>
>
> New Mexico State University
>
> 505-646-2485
>
> [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of 
> image001.gif]
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net

From bobfabie at gmail.com  Tue Feb 19 07:53:10 2008
From: bobfabie at gmail.com (robert fabie)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 09:53:10 -0500
Subject: [6pack] 6PACK Topics
In-Reply-To: <7679-47BA57D5-4105@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>
References: <7679-47BA57D5-4105@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <e343023f0802190653qdfe951aj645f651851381058@mail.gmail.com>

Dick:
As usual, you're spot-on!
Bob Fabie


On 2/18/08, Sally or Dick Taylor <tr6taylor at webtv.net> wrote:
>
> I for one dont mind opening up mail and seeing that someone wants to
> know about:
>
> Brake fluid,
> tires sizes,
> which Black paint,
> mirrors,
> shocks,
>
> so long as it relates directly to the TR Six, as in "6pack". That is
> what this list is for. That is what the Club is for.
>
> There are new subscribers coming in nearly every day that haven't seen
> the info before.
>
> On the other hand, the list should not be used to promote events that
> have nothing to do with the Six...There. I've said it.
>
> Dick Taylor
> '73 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as bobfabie at gmail.com

From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu  Tue Feb 19 07:54:39 2008
From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 09:54:39 -0500
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)
References: <005c01c87291$06965900$95c67b80@nmsu.edu>
Message-ID: <F79CF58CB4D876429A16711818F2176601C0692B@HSCSEMAIL21.hscs.virginia.edu>

Big question:  Would you really want to put tires that size, and chop up your
car?!


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of
Kevin McNelis
Sent: Mon 2/18/2008 7:47 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] (no subject)

OK-  Tire sizes:  If I want to use 30 series tires on 20" chrome wheels, how
much will I have to chop off my fenders, or could I use Bondo to make fender
flairs to fit over the tires?





L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA



New Mexico State University

505-646-2485

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of
image001.gif]
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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Feb 19 09:14:49 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 08:14:49 -0800
Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild
In-Reply-To: <752560.62924.qm@web81606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <752560.62924.qm@web81606.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345EF52@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	John:

	I am sure the pros will tell you that prelubing the motor with
an electric drill is best, and I am sure that it is. Being a mechanic of
the ghetto variety, I am inclined to keep things simple. I prelubed mine
with the plugs out and used the starter motor. I had reassembled mine
using grease (I worry that if I don't get the engine running right away,
the oil will drain away). This method works. Is it best? Probably not,
but then I don't brush after every meal either. (I know; Ewwwww!)
	BTW, when you fire the engine, don't forget to fast idle the
motor at 2000 RPM for 20 minutes. DO NOT let the car idle. If you must
shut down the motor for some reason, when you restart the motor take it
back up to 2000 RPM and resume from where you left off. The camshaft is
lubricated by splashed oil. You want to make certain that the cam gets
splashed with LOTS of oil during the first 20 minutes. Otherwise you
will have a cam lobe go flat in a few hundred miles. A buddy of mine
went through not one but two cams on his Ford before he did this, and no
problems since.

	Cheers,

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of acs25m at swbell.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 1:35 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] engine rebuild

I have a question for the list. What is the best way to get oil pressure
up on a newly rebuilt engine. It is a TR250 with a new oil pump,bearings
and rings. Assembly lube was generously used in the rebuild. Should I
just turn the engine over sans plugs or would I be better off to make a
connecting piece and turn the pump with a drill motor?
  John Maneke
  TR250
  CD3025L

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Feb 19 11:06:33 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 10:06:33 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Was 6PACK Topics - beacme bushings- Is now Speedo Cable
In-Reply-To: <021920081209.1180.47BAC6EE0003ADCF0000049C2207300793CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
References: <021920081209.1180.47BAC6EE0003ADCF0000049C2207300793CBC998079C9D9B@comcast.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0345F17E@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	trsix:

	I am sure you could swap just the inner core PROVIDED THAT the
outer sheath is intact and in good condition. This means no cracks or
splits on the outer sheath. Corrosion is deadly to the cables, and you
must keep water and grit out of the innards.
	When I have replaced cables it has been because the outer sheath
is split, rusting, etc. If yours is in good condition, a heavy motor oil
can be used to prelube, and then replace the inner works. Should work
fine.
	I suppose that if the old and new pieces were made by different
suppliers or to a slightly different spec (longer, shorter, bigger
diameter, etc) then all bets would be off. I can't say if the cables are
still made to the same specification or not - I have always just
replaced the entire cable. Seems like cheap insurance to me.

	Cheers,

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of trsix74 at comcast.net
Sent: Tuesday, February 19, 2008 4:09 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Was 6PACK Topics - beacme bushings- Is now Speedo
Cable

Did you find those bushings on ebay? Oh come on, it's winter and I'm
bored!!!!!

Ok serious now. When fitting a new speedo cable can one simply pull the
old inner cable out and insert new or does one need to remove and
replace the entire unit. Are speedo inner cables and outer sheaths made
to match?
Thanks for your help.

From abrahamdg at earthlink.net  Tue Feb 19 12:27:47 2008
From: abrahamdg at earthlink.net (Doug Abraham)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 14:27:47 -0500 (GMT-05:00)
Subject: [6pack] Carb to Manifold Gasket sealant
Message-ID: <27201107.1203449267659.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Greetings all. What is the recommended gasket sealant for use on the carburetor to intake manifold gaskets? The ones that go on each side of the spacer. Also, does anyone have a list of what sealants to use for various applications?

Thanks,
Doug

'69 TR6 CC30919LO

From mgc4 at CDC.GOV  Tue Feb 19 12:57:17 2008
From: mgc4 at CDC.GOV (Campsmith, Michael (CDC/CCID/NCHHSTP))
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 14:57:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Is Pick of Online Voters
Message-ID: <2764FE2328D0064FABD0AB92281F901402668BFD@LTA3VS003.ees.hhs.gov>

 Congratulations to all of the enthusiasts with the forethought to own
Triumphs.

Michael Campsmith
1974 TR6 (now BRG)
 <http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/misc/spacer.gif>
<http://www.nytimes.com/>
 <http://graphics8.nytimes.com/images/misc/spacer.gif>

/   | February 17, 2008
Triumph Is Pick of Online Voters
<http://www.nytimes.com/2008/02/17/automobiles/collectibles/17contest.ht
ml?ex=1204088400&en=44657e2919775c2f&ei=5070&emc=eta1>
By RICHARD S. CHANG
A black 1959 Triumph TR3A is the winner of the Collectible Car of the
Year contest.

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Tue Feb 19 13:17:26 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:17:26 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Carb to Manifold Gasket sealant
In-Reply-To: <27201107.1203449267659.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
References: <27201107.1203449267659.JavaMail.root@elwamui-mouette.atl.sa.earthlink.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802191514400.14317@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

The only place I use sealants is to hold a gasket in place during 
re-assembly. Never use sealants on the carb / manifold interface. Never 
use sealants on the manifold head interface and NEVER NEVER use sealants 
for the head gasket.

When you do use sealants, use them sparingly and only use them on on one 
side to hold the gasket in place. It's best to let the sealant set up 
before you assemble so that the sealant doesn't get all over everything.

Regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 19 17:34:16 2008
From: 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org)
Date: Tue, 19 Feb 2008 19:34:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] throttle shaft bushings
Message-ID: <32993605.65691203467656796.JavaMail.servlet@perfora>

Al,
I assume you're talking about the two shaft bearings that go through the bulkhead. If so, I just went through this with a certain degree of frustration. If you look closely at the bearings, you'll notice that one side is actually wider then the other side. By that I mean the hole opening that the shaft passes through has a tapered opening at one end. That means that the driver side bearing should be installed from inside the car and the passenger side from inside the engine bay. OR... you could do what I ended up doing.....I talked Art Lipp into making Delrin bearings that are a perfect fit and simple to install. You can see them here (http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm). I tried using the bronze bearings that others suggested and didn't like them for a few reasons, including safety.

Bob



The rubber bushings that go on the Carburetor throttle shaft:

Does the solid side go on the outside of the carb body or towards the inside.

I wasn't paying attention when I pulled the old ones out.

thanks

Al
This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
http://www.vtr.org


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From 70tr6 at mindspring.com  Wed Feb 20 07:49:16 2008
From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 09:49:16 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
Message-ID: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting

Item number: 170195098537


Ashford Little
GTA Director
6-Pack Membership Secretary
'70 TR6

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Wed Feb 20 08:01:06 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 09:01:06 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
References: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <003101c873d1$6b6ffe80$7407f746@Dell320>

It even has those fender flairs Dr. Kevin was talking about!

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Wed Feb 20 08:14:02 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 10:14:02 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
References: <9E7C96EA-0067-4D26-86AB-429F43714EA9@mindspring.com>
Message-ID: <003e01c873d3$39fffab0$0200a8c0@Desktop>

Gee Ashford......you got all the money Buy it
we all will help you make a mess out of it
Craig
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Ashford Little" <70tr6 at mindspring.com>
To: "Triumph List" <Triumphs at autox.team.net>; "6pack Email List" 
<6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:49 AM
Subject: [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?


> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
>
> Item number: 170195098537
>
>
> Ashford Little
> GTA Director
> 6-Pack Membership Secretary
> '70 TR6
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
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> http://www.team.net/archive 

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Feb 20 08:37:11 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 15:37:11 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
Message-ID: <022020081537.13088.47BC4927000E3703000033202207001641970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> 

> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&sspagename=STRK% 
> 3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting 

If that amazing Vitesse isn't for you (I have seen it on track, and it IS amazing), and you like red instead of the BRG Barry Rosenberg TR4, my vintage race TR4 is for sale and can be seen at:
www.race-cars.com.

Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
63 vintage race TR4, looking for a new home
Highland Park, IL

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Feb 20 08:38:37 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 10:38:37 EST
Subject: [6pack] Vittesse on EBay   or  TR4  at  http://www.race-cars.com/
Message-ID: <bd0.25a728ac.34eda37d@cs.com>

Triumph Listers

The first time I saw this Kas Kastner Vittesse run, I was astounded. It led 
an all Triumph field of well developed vintage Triumph racers. I thought, 
initially, that SEDANS are just not supposed to be that fast.

I hope someone in the Triumph Community will be able to buy this car and 
bring it out to play. (If it is not sold, there are plans to bring it to Watkins 
Glen in September)
(NFI)

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&ih=007&
sspagename=STRK%3AMEWA%3AIT&viewitem=&item=170195098537&rd=1#ebayphotohosting
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
--------------------------------------------
Or, more affordable, is Irv Korey's well & thoughtfully developed TR4. What I 
know about this car is that it is fully capable of sub 3:00s at Road America. 
Look at it      

http://www.race-cars.com/ 

This is a true turn key car......buy it now and come to Watkins Glen with us 
in September of 2008.   (NFI)

Joe A       


> 
> 

   </HTML>

From lfm614 at aol.com  Wed Feb 20 09:29:01 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:29:01 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
Message-ID: <648232033-1203525114-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-191444530-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Not like the one that was posted as stolen a while back in a trailer is it?

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Stuart Thompson
Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net
To: Ashford Little
To: Triumph List
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Feb 20, 2008 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Looking for a Triumph Race car?

It even has those fender flairs Dr. Kevin was talking about!
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From emanteno at comcast.net  Wed Feb 20 09:49:00 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:49:00 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Looking for a Triumph Race car?
Message-ID: <022020081649.25942.47BC59FC0001ABC0000065562207024553970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: lfm614 at aol.com 

> Not like the one that was posted as stolen a while back in a trailer is it? 
Same color, different car. Chuck Arnold's stolen car was a 250 or a 5, not a 4A.
Irv Korey

From bmoine at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 20 19:53:54 2008
From: bmoine at yahoo.com (W. W. Moine)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 18:53:54 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Not really TR6 related except how to stack them
Message-ID: <918970.22338.qm@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Any list members have any good or bad experiences with 4 post lifts for stacking cars for storage?  

From john70350 at msn.com  Wed Feb 20 19:59:31 2008
From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 02:59:31 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Not really TR6 related except how to stack them
In-Reply-To: <918970.22338.qm@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <918970.22338.qm@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <BAY107-W8EC3DD323D046A9B33121F71C0@phx.gbl>

Bill, I have a Panther Lift. It's a 9,000 lb four post lift and I like it, it
is a little bit narrower between the ramps than most and that helps with
Little British Cars. No complaints at all. John Johnson

> Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 18:53:54 -0800> From: bmoine at yahoo.com> To:
6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Not really TR6 related except how to
stack them> > Any list members have any good or bad experiences with 4 post
lifts for stacking cars for storage? >
_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
You are subscribed as john70350 at msn.com
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your
"fix".
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From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Feb 20 20:17:57 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 22:17:57 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Not really TR6 related except how to stack them
Message-ID: <71C89A6E.4BCE71F7.00159EE9@cs.com>

i see a panther lift on ebay , new 7000# at 1995.00

looks good at first impression.

110,too

joe a

>Bill, I have a Panther Lift. It's a 9,000 lb four post lift and I like it, it
>is a little bit narrower between the ramps than most and that helps with
>Little British Cars. No complaints at all. John Johnson
>
>> Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 18:53:54 -0800> From: bmoine at yahoo.com> To:
>6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Not really TR6 related except how to
>stack them> > Any list members have any good or bad experiences with 4 post
>lifts for stacking cars for storage? >
>_______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net
>http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net>
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> >
>You are subscribed as john70350 at msn.com
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>"fix".
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>
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From jguyot1 at maine.rr.com  Wed Feb 20 20:46:36 2008
From: jguyot1 at maine.rr.com (Jerry Guyot)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 22:46:36 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Not really TR6 related except how to stack them
References: <918970.22338.qm@web30307.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <021c01c8743c$5c698c60$6501a8c0@JerrySony>

I ordered this lift this past fall and am very happy with it. 
http://www.gregsmithequipment.com/Direct-Lift-Pro-Park-8S-p/tppro-park8s.htm 
Read through the site. A lot of good information. The whole thing cost me 
right around $1,900 delivered. (I live up in Maine) The hardest part was 
getting it off the truck at my house! My brother and I put it together in 
about a day. One of the ramps is extremely heavy (The one with the hydraulic 
cylinder attached) other than that, was fairly easy to put together.
I wish I had had it when I had my TR6...................Would have made it a 
lot easier to work on

(Sold my "Six" earlier this fall and bought a BMW Z3m)

Jerry
Former owner 71 TR6


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "W. W. Moine" <bmoine at yahoo.com>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 9:53 PM
Subject: [6pack] Not really TR6 related except how to stack them


Any list members have any good or bad experiences with 4 post lifts for 
stacking cars for storage?
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as jguyot1 at maine.rr.com 

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 20 21:03:32 2008
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 20:03:32 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] ignition
Message-ID: <875632.67979.qm@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Here is a simple question.  What is the difference
between Crane electronic ignition and Pertronix?  
I have the latter and can't say i'm very satisfied
with it.  

Another question comes to mind.  After my TR6 has sat
for several weeks without being started, I get it
started and it runs like - for want of a better way to
say it - it's blowing instead of sucking.  With
sucking meaning air going into the carbs, into the
combustion chamber, fireing and flowing smoothely out
the exhaust.  Blowing would be air going into the
carbs and on to the cylinder but only halfway
igniting.  No misfireing. No odd sounds out the
exhaust but obviously less ooomph for my new Webber
DGV carbs.
Discuss among your selves:)

John Summers
'74 6 


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From james.f.juhas at snet.net  Wed Feb 20 21:30:00 2008
From: james.f.juhas at snet.net (Jim Juhas)
Date: Wed, 20 Feb 2008 23:30:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] ignition
Message-ID: <20080221042741.2CE4318764D@autox.team.net>

I have one of each, in boxes, and a Pertronix on my TR 6.  Pertronix is timed with an inductor and is all contained under the cap.  The Crane is an optical trigger and has a small external box.  

Jim 
1957 MGA #311

-----Original Message-----

From:  John Summers <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>
Subj:  [6pack] ignition
Date:  Wed Feb 20, 2008 11:04 pm
Size:  1K
To:  6pack at autox.team.net

Here is a simple question.  What is the difference
between Crane electronic ignition and Pertronix?  
I have the latter and can't say i'm very satisfied
with it.  

Another question comes to mind.  After my TR6 has sat
for several weeks without being started, I get it
started and it runs like - for want of a better way to
say it - it's blowing instead of sucking.  With
sucking meaning air going into the carbs, into the
combustion chamber, fireing and flowing smoothely out
the exhaust.  Blowing would be air going into the
carbs and on to the cylinder but only halfway
igniting.  No misfireing. No odd sounds out the
exhaust but obviously less ooomph for my new Webber
DGV carbs.
Discuss among your selves:)

John Summers
'74 6 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 21 09:16:08 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 08:16:08 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Was ignition, now Weber DGV carbs
In-Reply-To: <875632.67979.qm@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <875632.67979.qm@web36214.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0348F096@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	John:

	Are the Weber DGVs new, or has the car been running well in the
past with DGV carbs?

	Obviously, if the carbs are newly installed we get to start from
the ground up, but if it used to run just fine than it narrows the list
of likely culprits. And just to be clear (I am no Weber expert) the DGVs
are down draft (oops, I mean down draught) carbs, correct? I recall that
the DCOEs are the side drafts (drat! I mean draught).
	And "Webber" is actually spelled "Weber", correct? Or do I have
that wrong too?
	Are you saying that the car has less power with Webers than with
Zeniths? OR are you saying that the car has suddenly decided to make
less power than it used to with the DGVs?
	Lastly, have you sacrificed the obligatory chicken to Lucas,
Prince of Darkness to make certain you don't have an electrical gremlin?
You can't be too careful. Every spring I sacrifice a bucket of Kentucky
Fried Chicken (Extra Crispy) just to be on the safe side.

	Cheers,

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John Summers
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2008 8:04 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] ignition

<snip>

Another question comes to mind.  After my TR6 has sat
for several weeks without being started, I get it
started and it runs like - for want of a better way to
say it - it's blowing instead of sucking.  With
sucking meaning air going into the carbs, into the
combustion chamber, fireing and flowing smoothely out
the exhaust.  Blowing would be air going into the
carbs and on to the cylinder but only halfway
igniting.  No misfireing. No odd sounds out the
exhaust but obviously less ooomph for my new Webber
DGV carbs.
Discuss among your selves:)

John Summers
'74 6

From andr.jrsquared at verizon.net  Thu Feb 21 15:01:46 2008
From: andr.jrsquared at verizon.net (Jimmy Richards)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 16:01:46 -0600
Subject: [6pack] decking the block
Message-ID: <000001c874d5$5a38b120$0eaa1360$@jrsquared@verizon.net>

Oh great ones,

 

My engine is at the machine shop for an overhaul.  Its getting the usual
bottom end treatment with new components as needed, balancing, polishing,
cylinders bored, etc.  The head had previously been shaved (9.5:1) and had
the hardened valve seats.  It is getting new stainless valves.

 

I also want to have the block zero decked.  I assume that once the material
is removed from the block that the recesses around the bores will need to be
re cut.  My machinist is stressing over the distance from the top of the top
ring on the piston to the bottom of the recess in the cylinder bore.  I have
not seen this issue discussed on the list.

 

Is this something that I need to be concerned about?  

 

Thanks,

Jimmy Richards

74 TR6

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 16:42:46 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 15:42:46 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Need a decent crank pulley
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802211542h58c71652vc1e00b8954b039b8@mail.gmail.com>

Race car coming together in a couple of weeks.  Have discovered I need a
decent crank pulley.  Anyone have one to sell.  Cost shipped to Seattle?
Thanks

Chuck Arnold

From triosan at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 16:58:46 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 15:58:46 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Need a decent TR6 crank pulley
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802211558o4f89effahaf7c8e327245a1c5@mail.gmail.com>

Sorry, forgot to mention the car

---------- Forwarded message ----------
From: Chuck Arnold <triosan at gmail.com>
Date: Thu, Feb 21, 2008 at 3:42 PM
Subject: Need a decent crank pulley
To: Friends <fot at autox.team.net>, Triumph <6pack at autox.team.net>


Race car coming together in a couple of weeks.  Have discovered I need a
decent crank pulley.  Anyone have one to sell.  Cost shipped to Seattle?
Thanks

Chuck Arnold



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From TRDOCTOR at aol.com  Thu Feb 21 17:24:36 2008
From: TRDOCTOR at aol.com (TRDOCTOR at aol.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:24:36 EST
Subject: [6pack] Triumphtransameria Donation
Message-ID: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>

Our Club met the other night and it was decided that we donate to cause for  
the purchase of the Stag. Were do we send the money (don't even think about  
it. I know who most of you are and I can find out where the rest of you live  
;-)) and can you take PayPal?
 
Sam and Carol Clark 
Green Country Triumphs 
TS45355L  O
CC82030U O
Cell: 918-625-6798



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 21 18:21:23 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 17:21:23 -0800
Subject: [6pack] decking the block
In-Reply-To: <000001c874d5$5a38b120$0eaa1360$@jrsquared@verizon.net>
References: <000001c874d5$5a38b120$0eaa1360$@jrsquared@verizon.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B5244@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Jim:

	Kas Kastner recommends 0 decking the block in his book on race
prepping a
TR6 engine. He stated (if I remember correctly - always iffy) that it
requires about 0.017"
to 0 deck the block.). When I built my engine I was not aware of the
virtues of 0 decking
the block, but had my block decked 0.010" anyway, with no problems
since. My machinist
recut the fire rings for me.
	I have read that the distance from the top of the top ring to
the crown of the
piston can be a problem, as you want enough meat between the ring and
the crown to prevent
the top land from cracking if the cylinder gets into detonation. Since
you are not altering
the piston itself, this is obviously not a problem for you. But I have
not heard of the concern
about reducing the cylinder wall height. I suppose it might have the
same risks as reducing the
piston crown height, but maybe not.
	In any event, remember that the fire ring groove will be filled
with a steel ring. So I cannot
see how the ring ends up any closer to the combustion flame front. The
distance to the flame front
is still the distance between the top ring and the crown. So if it were
me, I would ignore him, but
then that is me. Remember many of these guys have not worked on high
performance motors, and so
do not know what will work and what will not - so they tend to be very
conservative.
	My machinist got the "deer in the headlights" look when I told
him I wanted my mini motor
overbored by 0.115". I spent a lot of time reassuring him that it would
work, based on all the
reading I did. I even showed him a book that said it would work. So he
did it. When I picked up
the block he was obviously relieved when he told me it had worked with
no problems (no breaking
into a water jacket, no exposed oil ways, etc).
	If your machinist is still giving you the willies, an option
would be to 0 deck the block,
and use the earlier head gasket. The earlier head gasket does not
require fire rings cut in the
deck, and so would maximize the amount of cylinder wall margin. Depends
on your tolerance for
risk....

	Cheers,

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Jimmy Richards
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 2:02 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] decking the block

Oh great ones,

<snip>

I also want to have the block zero decked.  I assume that once the
material
is removed from the block that the recesses around the bores will need
to be
re cut.  My machinist is stressing over the distance from the top of the
top
ring on the piston to the bottom of the recess in the cylinder bore.  I
have
not seen this issue discussed on the list.

Is this something that I need to be concerned about?

Thanks,

Jimmy Richards

74 TR6

From johncnorth at gmail.com  Thu Feb 21 19:49:45 2008
From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:49:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book
Message-ID: <49f668fe0802211849p314eae53r3309bf5f7318df2@mail.gmail.com>

Gone through all my tricks, "tapping", beating, two sockets in a vise
etc trying to get the last prop shaft u-joint out of the flange.
Last night I heated it up with a propane torch, still won't move with
the two-sockets-in-a-vise method.   One last shot is to put it in the
freezer for a couple hours and then try the propane torch again.   It
strikes me that this is serious torture and maybe the metal can't
handle that without cracking.   What do you think?   Will that damage
the flange?

John North

From sullij at att.net  Thu Feb 21 19:56:22 2008
From: sullij at att.net (sullij at att.net)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 02:56:22 +0000
Subject: [6pack] ignition
Message-ID: <022220080256.26822.47BE39D60003CAA9000068C622243429029B0A02D29B9B0EBF060704049A9C@att.net>

John,

I realize that you have an answer on the physical setup between the two types, My experience, having run both, is that they perform similar.

I also have the downdraft webbers.

I would check the timing setup and make sure that is correct. I suspect that the installation, although easy, could impact the setting. I also found that plugs, plug wires and coil can be the real issue.

Then start blaming the carb's.

John Sullivan 
70 TR6




-------------- Original message from John Summers <rivers2hills at yahoo.com>: -------------- 


> Here is a simple question. What is the difference 
> between Crane electronic ignition and Pertronix? 
> I have the latter and can't say i'm very satisfied 
> with it. 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 20:01:12 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:01:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] hello
Message-ID: <007b01c87500$931250c0$800101df@garage.local>

Doug or Vicki Jensen pleae contact me off list

my apologies to the rest of you

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 20:03:21 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:03:21 -0600
Subject: [6pack] "new" 69 TR6
References: <000001c874d5$5a38b120$0eaa1360$@jrsquared@verizon.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B5244@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <007c01c87500$9aa4cac0$800101df@garage.local>

got the carbs and accelerator linkage on tonight.  without changing plugs, 
points, etc, tried to start it with some starter spray.

hahahahaha

oh, well.  it does turn over nicely. time to replace all that stuff and 
start chasing electrons.. 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 21 20:14:32 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 21:14:32 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $3,400 collected; $5,900 pledged!!!!
Message-ID: <000801c87501$10024360$800101df@garage.local>

WOW

and thank you all of you.

From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org  Thu Feb 21 20:22:06 2008
From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 20:22:06 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Triumphtransameria Donation
In-Reply-To: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>
References: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47BE3FDE.10205@tscusa.org>

TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:
> Our Club met the other night and it was decided that we donate to cause for  
> the purchase of the Stag. Were do we send the money (don't even think about  
> it. I know who most of you are and I can find out where the rest of you live  
> ;-)) and can you take PayPal?
>  
> Sam and Carol Clark 
> Green Country Triumphs 
> TS45355L  O
> CC82030U O
> Cell: 918-625-6798
>
>   
Excellent! 

Thank you Sam & Carol, and the Green Country Triumphs Membership.
No, we can not accept PayPal or credit cards as of yet.   So best method 
is by check at this time.  Besides, it creates a better traceable 
contribution.

I hope more clubs step up as Green Country Triumphs have to assist this 
effort.

Please  visit the website setup by David "Oliver" Northrup of the Red 
River Triumph Club for the pledge and donation information at 
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2
and of course visit the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive site 
at http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

I would like to remind those who have pledged, and those wishing to 
donate to please send in your donation ASAP, as the decision has been 
made to purchase the very complete Stag in Illinois as soon as funds are 
available so restoration can begin immediately.

Thanks Again!
Cheers!

Glenn Merrell
TTA 2009 Restoration Coordinator
TSN Admin
TSC USA Chairman (2007-2009)
President (2001-2007)
"The Best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, 
and dead bugs on the windshield!"

From johnehorton at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 21 20:59:04 2008
From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com)
Date: Thu, 21 Feb 2008 19:59:04 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] ignition
In-Reply-To: <022220080256.26822.47BE39D60003CAA9000068C622243429029B0A02D29B9B0EBF060704049A9C@att.net>
Message-ID: <659105.96526.qm@web51909.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

John,  John Horton here DCTRA in Arizona.  One of our members has available an  EDIS ignition system conversion.  This uses a 36 tooth wheel on the front damper and the Ford components to include an Autosports Labs Megajolt computer.  This is a much stronger ignition system than either pertronics or crane.  

Let me know if your are interested.   I will help you out.  John H.

sullij at att.net wrote: John,

I realize that you have an answer on the physical setup between the two types, My experience, having run both, is that they perform similar.

I also have the downdraft webbers.

I would check the timing setup and make sure that is correct. I suspect that the installation, although easy, could impact the setting. I also found that plugs, plug wires and coil can be the real issue.

Then start blaming the carb's.

John Sullivan 
70 TR6




-------------- Original message from John Summers : -------------- 


> Here is a simple question. What is the difference 
> between Crane electronic ignition and Pertronix? 
> I have the latter and can't say i'm very satisfied 
> with it. 
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com


       
---------------------------------
Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Feb 22 07:27:49 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 14:27:49 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Weber DCOE's, Trumpets and Filters, 74.5 TR6
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736AED@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Hi.. This is a question for anyone that has done the 3xDCOE 40mm conversion
and has a later model TR6 (it has extra clearance between carbs and inner wing
wheel arch). I would like to know what length trumpets you used and what
thickness filter enclosures and how much clearance you ended up with between
the filter enclosure and the inner wing.

Thanks...

Stan

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Fri Feb 22 07:49:11 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 08:49:11 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
Message-ID: <00f101c87562$15d1e0a0$7407f746@Dell320>

I am amazed at how good the maneuverability is in a TR6 when a 90
year old woman pulls out from a side street and heads directly at you.

I was able to maneuver the car in such a way that had I been driving
something else, I feel certain I would have been hit or rolled over.

Other than that my trip home from the beer store was quite enjoyable.

Stuart

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Feb 22 08:02:12 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:02:12 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Weber DCOE's, Trumpets and Filters, 74.5 TR6
In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736AED@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736AED@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802220937550.29434@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, Foster, Stan wrote:

> Hi.. This is a question for anyone that has done the 3xDCOE 40mm conversion
> and has a later model TR6 (it has extra clearance between carbs and inner wing
> wheel arch). I would like to know what length trumpets you used and what
> thickness filter enclosures and how much clearance you ended up with between
> the filter enclosure and the inner wing.

Use the short trumpets and the shorter K&Ns. If you get the long trumpets, 
the 3 inch K&N's don't fit unless you hack the inner fender. There  are 
"socks" and other airfilters out there for the triple webers that will fit 
with the long horns, but not the K&N 3". ITG was one of those options. Not 
cheap, but it should work.

The problem is not the actual clearance but how the K&N attaches. The K&N 
has a center "lug" that the filter goes over and then there's a cover that 
slips over the top and attaches via a center screw. With that lug in the 
way, you can't deform the filter enough to clear the lug. Then there's the 
issue of securing the center screw...

There MAY be an oval K&N cone that might work, but the vast majority of 
street-driven TR6's that I've seen just use the short air horns and the 
short filters (I think the short filters are 1.75" tall).

The power difference between the long and short horns is not a big deal 
unless you pay a lot of $$$ for "constant radius" air horns from the likes 
of TWM and even then the advantages aren't huge unlees you get on a dyno 
and tweak.

> Thanks...
>
> Stan


regards
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From drsandner at embarqmail.com  Fri Feb 22 08:07:05 2008
From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:07:05 -0500
Subject: [6pack] decking
Message-ID: <8F40551037864E24A9201A964518333B@randyPC>

morning vance,
to the uninitiated in engine machining, what is 'decking'?
TIA
randy

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Feb 22 08:13:33 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:13:33 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book
In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0802211849p314eae53r3309bf5f7318df2@mail.gmail.com>
References: <49f668fe0802211849p314eae53r3309bf5f7318df2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802221009310.29434@isis.mit.edu>

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008, John North wrote:

> Gone through all my tricks, "tapping", beating, two sockets in a vise
> etc trying to get the last prop shaft u-joint out of the flange.
> Last night I heated it up with a propane torch, still won't move with
> the two-sockets-in-a-vise method.   One last shot is to put it in the
> freezer for a couple hours and then try the propane torch again.   It
> strikes me that this is serious torture and maybe the metal can't
> handle that without cracking.   What do you think?   Will that damage
> the flange?

Will it damage the flange? The answer depends on how hot. Heat that baby 
to cherry red and you might as well throw the whole thing out. You should 
never need heat for this job.

Get the cups out as far as you can with the pushing method, i.e. push 
'till the u-joint bottoms on the yoke. Then use a pair of hefty pliers on 
the exposed cup and twist / tap. They come out every time.

I have never frozen these parts for fitment, but about the only time that 
would help would be when you re-assemble (to get the caps a "tad" 
smaller), but you really don't need to do that.

> John North

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Feb 22 08:20:16 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 07:20:16 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Weber DCOE's, Trumpets and Filters, 74.5 TR6
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802220937550.29434@isis.mit.edu>
References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736AED@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802220937550.29434@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802220720oadf4805s6d1e687fce8a1666@mail.gmail.com>

Somewhere I got a "Shorter" K&N that I use on the front carb. It has two
mounting posts -tio and bottom, I just use the top one.  Fit is tight, but
it works fine.

On Fri, Feb 22, 2008 at 7:02 AM, Robert Lang <lang at isis.mit.edu> wrote:

> On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, Foster, Stan wrote:
>
> > Hi.. This is a question for anyone that has done the 3xDCOE 40mm
> conversion
> > and has a later model TR6 (it has extra clearance between carbs and
> inner wing
> > wheel arch). I would like to know what length trumpets you used and what
> > thickness filter enclosures and how much clearance you ended up with
> between
> > the filter enclosure and the inner wing.
>
> Use the short trumpets and the shorter K&Ns. If you get the long trumpets,
> the 3 inch K&N's don't fit unless you hack the inner fender. There  are
> "socks" and other airfilters out there for the triple webers that will fit
> with the long horns, but not the K&N 3". ITG was one of those options. Not
> cheap, but it should work.
>
> The problem is not the actual clearance but how the K&N attaches. The K&N
> has a center "lug" that the filter goes over and then there's a cover that
> slips over the top and attaches via a center screw. With that lug in the
> way, you can't deform the filter enough to clear the lug. Then there's the
> issue of securing the center screw...
>
> There MAY be an oval K&N cone that might work, but the vast majority of
> street-driven TR6's that I've seen just use the short air horns and the
> short filters (I think the short filters are 1.75" tall).
>
> The power difference between the long and short horns is not a big deal
> unless you pay a lot of $$$ for "constant radius" air horns from the likes
> of TWM and even then the advantages aren't huge unlees you get on a dyno
> and tweak.
>
> > Thanks...
> >
> > Stan
>
>
> regards
> rml
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
>
> ---------------------------------------------------------------------------
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com
>



-- 
Chuck Arnold

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Feb 22 08:58:51 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:58:51 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] decking
In-Reply-To: <8F40551037864E24A9201A964518333B@randyPC>
References: <8F40551037864E24A9201A964518333B@randyPC>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802221034060.29434@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, j randolph sandner wrote:

> morning vance,
> to the uninitiated in engine machining, what is 'decking'?

decking is the process of cutting the BLOCK to optimize the combustion 
chamber volume. In short, you cut the block down so the block to the 
top of the piston at TDC is reduced / eliminated. There are instances in 
the extreme where decking can make the pistons stand clear of the block, 
but we don't want that. On a TR6, using the Kastner suggestions, you 
reduce enough unswept area to gain about .3 of a compression ratio (e.g. a 
head milled to 10.0:1 becomes 10.3:1 when the block is decked.

> TIA
> randy

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Feb 22 08:58:59 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 07:58:59 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
In-Reply-To: <00f101c87562$15d1e0a0$7407f746@Dell320>
References: <00f101c87562$15d1e0a0$7407f746@Dell320>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B54EE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Stuart:

	Quite an exciting story, but you didn't speak to the point that
was tugging
at everyone's heart: In the ensuing high G maneuvers, did the beer stay
in the car?
	Oh yeah, I suppose I should ask if you were OK too...

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stuart Thompson
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 6:49 AM
To: 6 Pack list
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability

I am amazed at how good the maneuverability is in a TR6 when a 90
year old woman pulls out from a side street and heads directly at you.

I was able to maneuver the car in such a way that had I been driving
something else, I feel certain I would have been hit or rolled over.

Other than that my trip home from the beer store was quite enjoyable.

Stuart

From lfm614 at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 09:14:26 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 16:14:26 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B54EE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <00f101c87562$15d1e0a0$7407f746@Dell320><C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B54EE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <930741188-1203697042-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2136769300-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

LOL!

Stuart,

Glad you and the beer survived granny slalom, yeah its amazing what these LBC's can do when the adrenalin's flowin. 

Lou
 

-----Original Message-----
From: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette at intel.com>

Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 07:58:59 
To:"Stuart Thompson" <stuartt at tlthompson.com>,       "6  Pack list"<6pack at autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability


    Stuart:

    Quite an exciting story, but you didn't speak to the point that
was tugging
at everyone's heart: In the ensuing high G maneuvers, did the beer stay
in the car?
    Oh yeah, I suppose I should ask if you were OK too...

    Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Stuart Thompson
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 6:49 AM
To: 6 Pack list
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability

I am amazed at how good the maneuverability is in a TR6 when a 90
year old woman pulls out from a side street and heads directly at you.

I was able to maneuver the car in such a way that had I been driving
something else, I feel certain I would have been hit or rolled over.

Other than that my trip home from the beer store was quite enjoyable.

Stuart
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

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You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Fri Feb 22 09:27:05 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:27:05 -0600
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
References: <00f101c87562$15d1e0a0$7407f746@Dell320>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B54EE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <002601c8756f$c36cdb90$7407f746@Dell320>

All but one of the 16 oz. plastic bottles of Miller Lite were safely secured 
behind
passenger seat. Aside from a racing heartbeat & a bad case of beer nuts, 
driver OK.

> Quite an exciting story, but you didn't speak to the point that
> was tugging
> at everyone's heart: In the ensuing high G maneuvers, did the beer stay
> in the car?
> Oh yeah, I suppose I should ask if you were OK too...
>
> Vance

From triosan at gmail.com  Fri Feb 22 09:40:59 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 08:40:59 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 steering shaft to rack connection size
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802220840p7d053176o2bb9fbd544ed4db7@mail.gmail.com>

Am about to replace the stock parts with Borgeson shafts and u-joint.  Does
anyone happen to know the diameter of the shaft and nuber of splines where
the shaft jins the steering box?
Thanks

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Fri Feb 22 10:18:00 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 09:18:00 -0800
Subject: [6pack] FW:  decking
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B5621@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

        Randy:

        Decking is the process of shaving metal off the top of the
engine block, where the cylinder head is mated to the block. There are
two reasons you might do this: one is to make sure the deck is flat
which insures good clamping of the head gasket. The other is to increase
power.
        If you shave the head, the combustion chamber gets smaller,
raising the compression and increasing power. BUT, if you deck the
block, not only does the compression chamber get smaller, you increase
"squish" which also increases power. So you get MORE power by decking
the block that you do by shaving the head.
        Normally pistons are recessed into the block by up to 0.025",
depending on the engine. For our TR6s, when the engine left the factory
the pistons are recessed 0.017" when they are at top dead center. If I
were to shave the head 0.017 I might get the compression up by 0.2 from
say 8.5:1 to 8.7:1 for example. That might be good for 1 additional HP.
        If I deck the block by 0.017", I get 3 HP even though the
compression is up by the same 0.2 points. Why? Because decking, unlike
shaving the head, moves the head closer to the top of the piston.
Remember that the combustion chamber does not cover the entire top of
the piston. It is actually smaller than the cylinder bore. So as the
piston approaches TDC, some of the air/fuel is squeezed between the top
of the piston and the face of the head. This is "squished", and like
squeezing a grape seed between your fingers it squirts out at high speed
into the combustion chamber.
        This high speed "squirt" of gas causes turbulence in the gases,
which promotes better mixing and hence better combustion. So you get
more power than by raising the compression alone.
        Here is a drawing of "squish" in a motor cycle engine, which
shows what I am talking about:

        http://www.muller.net/mullermachine/docs/squish1.html

        Cheers,

        Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
<mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net> ] On
Behalf Of j randolph sandner
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 7:07 AM
To: v.navarrette at comcast.net
Cc: tr6; 6pack
Subject: [6pack] decking

morning vance,
to the uninitiated in engine machining, what is 'decking'?
TIA
randy

From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu  Fri Feb 22 10:31:55 2008
From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Kevin McNelis)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 10:31:55 -0700
Subject: [6pack] OT- tool question
Message-ID: <002701c87578$d1870030$95c67b80@nmsu.edu>

I have looked high and low, cheap and expensive.  What I want is an ACCURATE
in-line air pressure gauge.  Does such a beast exist?  I have tried dial
(Bernoulli) types and piston types, but never electronic ones.  All I have
tried are off by 3- 10 psi, as compared to my known accurate hand-held
gauge.  Are there any good electronic ones out there?  Suggestions?

 

Ps-  I also need it for daughter's gooseneck horse trailer, so up to about
120 psi would be good.

 

 

L. Kevin McNelis, PhD, CPA



New Mexico State University

505-646-2485

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif]

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Feb 22 10:47:30 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 17:47:30 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Weber DCOE's, Trumpets and Filters, 74.5 TR6
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0802220720oadf4805s6d1e687fce8a1666@mail.gmail.com>
References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736AED@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802220937550.29434@isis.mit.edu>
	<8cbd782d0802220720oadf4805s6d1e687fce8a1666@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736B7A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

When we are talking about short  air horns, how short is short ?. The ones
that came with the carbs are 1.5 inches long and they have a flared end.

When I look at the air filters they seem to have an interface that is
expecting two screws.. I wonder if the air horns I got are actually
incompatible with filters ?.

Mine look like this (6pack mailer will strip image, item can also be viewed
here http://www.piercemanifolds.com/airfilters.htm  part 52845.014):

[cid:image001.png at 01C87551.15ED1980]

Does that look like something an air filter would attached to ?

Stan

[demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/png which had a name of image001.png]

From bratt at sasktel.net  Fri Feb 22 10:50:25 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 11:50:25 -0600
Subject: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book
References: <49f668fe0802211849p314eae53r3309bf5f7318df2@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <013301c8757b$67993460$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

John:

When faced with an impossible task--use penetrating oil.  Use real 
penetrating oil, not cheap junk solvent sprays.  Just apply two drops.  Let 
it sit for half a day.  Apply two more drops.  Repeat morning and evening. 
Then use the two sockets and a vise method.  I learned this from Bob, ( he 
said for 10 days) an  "old car restorer".  It should work, but is not fully 
guaranteed.  It worked for my brother on his MGB.

Heating it may have been a bad thing to do.   Heat can bake the grease into 
hard stuff.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

Ed
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John North" <johncnorth at gmail.com>
To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, February 21, 2008 8:49 PM
Subject: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 22 11:47:07 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 18:47:07 +0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
In-Reply-To: <002601c8756f$c36cdb90$7407f746@Dell320>
References: <00f101c87562$15d1e0a0$7407f746@Dell320>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034B54EE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<002601c8756f$c36cdb90$7407f746@Dell320>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W30D187D0842CB5E92CC3B8E1D0@phx.gbl>

Dang,
That's some pretty good driving with a beer in one hand. (lol)

Sloane :)
> All but one of the 16 oz. plastic bottles of Miller Lite were safely secured
> behind> passenger seat. Aside from a racing heartbeat & a bad case of beer
nuts, > driver OK.>
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
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From Lfm614 at aol.com  Fri Feb 22 11:57:20 2008
From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 13:57:20 EST
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Maneuverability
Message-ID: <bed.1e02d782.34f07510@aol.com>

Hey sounds like a new TRials event!  The one hand - one beer  slalom.
 
Lou
 
 
In a message dated 2/22/2008 12:47:58 P.M. Central Standard Time,  
im_sloane at hotmail.com writes:

Dang,
That's some pretty good driving with a beer in one hand.  (lol)

Sloane :)
> All but one of the 16 oz. plastic bottles of  Miller Lite were safely 
secured
> behind> passenger seat. Aside from  a racing heartbeat & a bad case of beer
nuts, > driver  OK.>
_________________________________________________________________
Helping  your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we  
give.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as  lfm614 at aol.com





**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Feb 22 12:27:02 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 14:27:02 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book
In-Reply-To: <013301c8757b$67993460$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
References: <49f668fe0802211849p314eae53r3309bf5f7318df2@mail.gmail.com>
	<013301c8757b$67993460$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802221425040.29751@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 22 Feb 2008, Ed Bratt wrote:

> John:

[stuff deleted]

> Heating it may have been a bad thing to do.   Heat can bake the grease into
> hard stuff.

Heat can also change the "temper" of the metal which is really bad for 
forged parts (like your axle yokes).

I can always tell if a yoke has beed heated (either with a torch or from 
the Ujoint running dry) at they seem to crack or chunk.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 22 19:59:33 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 20:59:33 -0600
Subject: [6pack] lucas points
Message-ID: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

this part has been around for a while.  does anyone have the reference to tell
me what British car it fits?

thanks!

From stan.foster at hp.com  Fri Feb 22 20:11:36 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 03:11:36 +0000
Subject: [6pack] lucas points
In-Reply-To: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736C6E@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

>From the BPNW web site:

This a set of Points and Condenser Kit for Lucas Distributors 22D to 25D,
cross reference # TK50, DTB150. Distributor 22D to 25D. Triumph TR3, TR4,
TR4A, TR250, TR6, MGA, MGB to 1974, MG Midget to 1974 Jaguar 1965 to 1974.


(6pack mailer may wrap url)

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/TR250-6/7976/Points%20and%20Condenser%20
Kit%20

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 10:00 PM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] lucas points

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

this part has been around for a while.  does anyone have the reference to
tell
me what British car it fits?

thanks!

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Fri Feb 22 20:14:22 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 20:14:22 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Triumphtransameria Donation
In-Reply-To: <47BE5844.1070507@newellboys.com>
References: <cd2.29db6475.34ef7044@aol.com> <47BE5844.1070507@newellboys.com>
Message-ID: <47BF8F8E.2040509@tscusa.org>

> TRDOCTOR at aol.com wrote:
>> our Club met the other night and it was decided that we donate to cause for  
>> the purchase of the Stag...
>  Steven Newell wrote:  am an exiled Nigerian ruling family, would like to donate to cause for 
> puchase of your veyr good vehicle. I will send JonMac a cashier's check 
> for $5000 and you send me a sack of $3000 in cash. Thank you very good.
>
> King Steven Newell
> Littleton, Nigeria
> '62 TR4 x 2 etc.
>   
So King Steven and Jim,

I expect then that Red River Triumphs can expect both of your kind 
donations in the next week?? 
http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
BTW, I have not heard anything from RMTC, and John Macartney will be 
passing through Denver

ISOA is needing to get started on the Stag this weekend ...

If you prefer, you can make your donations directly to The Gift from 
Within Charity in Camden, Maine USA
http://www.giftfromwithin.org/

Cheers Gents,
Minister Barrister Solicitor Executor Uffda Stagchair TSCUSA

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From rnorris1 at swbell.net  Fri Feb 22 20:32:49 2008
From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 21:32:49 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
Message-ID: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>

Okay, here's an opportunity to expound on tire sizes! For general 
cruising, no auto-x or other aggressive driving, which tire size would 
be more appropriate, 205/70R15 or 205/75R15?  I currently have 195/75R15 
Michelins mounted, one of which was destroyed by road debris and my 
spare is a God only knows how old Michelin red line, so I am planning on 
5 new 'uns. Any clearance issues with either size? Would general 
handling qualities be better with the 75 than the 70?

Thanks, as always, for the good advice!

Rick Norris

From gary.fluke at verizon.net  Fri Feb 22 21:35:29 2008
From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 20:35:29 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>
Message-ID: <000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>

Rick,

While it seems as though more rubber is better, to a point, I found the 
comments of no less than John Surtees, World F1 Champion of 1964 driving a 
Ferrari, to be very interesting.  A few years ago he drove and wrote about 
several British sports cars for one of the major British classic cars 
magazines, including the TR6.  He had lots to say about the difference 
between a TR6 with stock tires and the somewhat wider tires on the subject 
car.  If I remember correctly, he preferred the stock size tires, especially 
regarding steering traits.  I wish I could tell what magazine it was in, 
maybe someone else here can.  I'm not an expert on John Surtees, but I seem 
to recall that he can be, or is, a first class fussbudget, for lack of a 
better term that is not rude.

Regardless of the above, I run 205-70 Michelin X One tires on stock rims and 
they look good and have performed well.


Gary
'73


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Rick Norris" <rnorris1 at swbell.net>
To: "6-Pack List Serve" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 22, 2008 7:32 PM
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes


> Okay, here's an opportunity to expound on tire sizes! For general
> cruising, no auto-x or other aggressive driving, which tire size would
> be more appropriate, 205/70R15 or 205/75R15?  I currently have 195/75R15
> Michelins mounted, one of which was destroyed by road debris and my
> spare is a God only knows how old Michelin red line, so I am planning on
> 5 new 'uns. Any clearance issues with either size? Would general
> handling qualities be better with the 75 than the 70?
>
> Thanks, as always, for the good advice!
>
> Rick Norris
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as gary.fluke at verizon.net

From slbridge at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 18 13:46:02 2008
From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge)
Date: Mon, 18 Feb 2008 20:46:02 +0000
Subject: [6pack] eBay style auctions
Message-ID: <BAY112-W28EB7B5757A62ECC67A4DBCF210@phx.gbl>

An MIT study showed sniping is the best way to buy the cheapest on eBay.

 To preface, I would like to once again Thank ALL who have ever bid, and/or
won, any of my auctions. I appreciate the time and money you invested in my
livelihood. Even if you stole it (I'm a big boy and knew what could happen
when I listed with a low opening bid and no reserve). I will continue to do my
best to make sure no TR part or car in my area goes to the landfill or crusher
without first being offered for sale to fellow hobbyists.
 The problem with sniping is: say a seller offers a BLUE NOS TR6 dash pad for
.95 cents and no reserve. Odds are it will sell higher, but not always. Either
way, that seller is obligated to sell for .95 cents. Is not their risk worthy
of getting more of a serious bid than 10 people with sniping software clogging
the auction in the last ten seconds ALL bidding $9? The one with the "5
seconds from the end software" gets it and the rest are actually cheating
themselves of an opportunity to own a new, one of a kind item, not available
anywhere for a fair price that ended at say, $100.
 "They should have entered a $100 bid from the start and got it for $10" is
easy to say in hindsight when the auction is over, but none of the bidders who
would have paid $100 did, we all tried to snipe it for $9. If one had put a
high bid of $100, odds are (according to MIT) someone would bid against them
just long enough to see what their high bid was. I will happily pay a fair
price, but I would rather have it cheaper than fair, that's my reward for my
investment of time hunting the item down and being at the auction when it
ends.  But, will the average seller who just got $9 then list one of the other
Dash Pads he has for .95 cents with no reserve? No. The next one will have a
$400 opening bid which is only good for eBay and their ever increasing fees.
$9 is under market, $400 is over, somebody has to lose. What is the fun in
that? If it sold for $80, the seller will try again and hope for the $100 or
more that he thinks is closer to fair market.
   When that pad gets Sniped for $9, other sellers will look at that completed
auction and ask: "Why bother selling the Blue NOS Dash Pad I have for only
$9"? and into the landfill it goes. Now all the NOS BLUE Dash Pads are buried
with the garbage because they didn't appear to be worth selling.  We can hurt
ourselves trying to be the ultimate sniper. Of course I do it too, I believe
the MIT research and it is how the game is currently played, win or lose.
  The solution: English Style auctions. Some auction houses have a 3 minute
delay that gets extended another 3 minutes when someone bids. So if the Dash
pad is at $9 with 2 minutes left, I am going to bid $10. If in 3 minutes, no
one else thinks it is worth a dollar more than I bid and outbids me with an
$11 bid, I win and its market value for that minute, that day is determined.
It is fair to all involved. (though the seller would be disappointed, but that
is the risk one takes)
  The way the auction ends, either English Style or eBay Style, should be the
seller's choice, not eBay's. As a buyer, if I prefer to snipe, I can choose to
not participate in the English Style Auctions. if I would rather risk paying
more than I had to, but GET IT and move on, I will go English Style.
   In real life as a buyer (I attended almost 300 live auctions this last
year), if I want the sale to end, I double the increase amount the auctioneer
is asking in an effort to discourage further bidding from my opponent. A good
auctioneer will then ask the next bid to match what I have raised it. I can
also ask the auctioneer to cut in half, the increase he is asking for and
maybe that wins it. It really is more fun than eBay, sort of like Poker. There
is some strategy, knowing your opponents, and bluffing.
   If a local auctioneer started using a stop watch to determine the end of an
item, the whole crowd would go buy stop watches. The auctioneer would be broke
and out of business in no time.

  BTW, Though all of these numbers were arbitrarily plucked out of the air for
illustration purposes, I would have eagerly paid $100 recently for an NOS Blue
Dash Pad for a TR6, but I had to settle for a black as all of the blues are
apparently in the landfill.

_________________________________________________________________
Connect and share in new ways with Windows Live.
http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_012008

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Sat Feb 23 00:04:26 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Fri, 22 Feb 2008 23:04:26 -0800
Subject: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book
In-Reply-To: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>'s message of Thu, 21
	Feb 2008 21:49:45 -0500
Message-ID: <19835-47BFC57A-3520@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>

John N.---If you are still fighting with the stubborn U-joint bearings,
I'd suggest you use a shock treatment, rather than a press-out with
sockets. Almost the same, but use a socket slightly smaller than the
diam. of the bearing. Set the whole unit on the anvil of your vise, and
whack the socket with a big hammer. Drive it far enough out to move the
opposite bearing out of the yoke. If you can't grip the exposed bearing,
try grinding two grooves on opposite sides of the bearing shell. Then
alternately tap it out with a chisel. I find this method to work well
when the fit is tight.

A propane torch may not provide enough heat. If necessary, and If you
have a kit that includes Oxy/Acetylene, try that on the yoke, right at
the bearing.. I doubt if freezing would do much.

Measure the distance (vernier calipers) of the yoke between the
bearings. It's not likely that you'll collapse it by trying to remove
the old bearings, but you'll want to know if you did. You won't be able
to get the circlips deep enough into their respective grooves if this
distance decreases. (Unless you make them thinner)

Dick

From: johncnorth at gmail.com(John North)

Gone through all my tricks, "tapping", beating, two sockets in a vise
etc trying to get the last prop shaft u-joint out of the flange. Last
night I heated it up with a propane torch, still won't move with the
two-sockets-in-a-vise method.   One last shot is to put it in the
freezer for a couple hours and then try the propane torch again.   It
strikes me that this is serious torture and maybe the metal can't handle
that without cracking.   What do you think?   Will that damage the
flange?
John North
______________________________________

From patton at suscom-maine.net  Sat Feb 23 00:12:34 2008
From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 02:12:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book
In-Reply-To: <19835-47BFC57A-3520@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <POEHJKJOLFPLCMCHAKJCCELEFMAA.patton@suscom-maine.net>

Hi John,

I don't want to discourage you doing the job, but I replace u-joints at my
auto parts store everyday and it usually runs about $15 per joint. You might
want to make a couple of phone calls especially since your joints are so
firmly in place. We use a large press and a fixture I designed for u-joints.

Rick Patton
rick at pattonmachine.com
http://pattonmachine.com


> To: John North
> Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: [6pack] U-joint removal, last trick in my book

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb 23 07:56:12 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 08:56:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] lucas points and "new" 69 tr6
Message-ID: <002801c8762c$3d27b470$cb0b0a0a@garage.local>

thank you to the many who responded.

i do appreciate it.  i'll use them on my 69 tr6 and hope i can get it running.
i have power to the coil, new coil, but as of yet no spark.  replaced coil,
plugs, plug wire, cap, rotor, but didn't have a condenser.  will put those in
and hope to get spark!  and exhaust!!!!!!!

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 23 08:06:37 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:06:37 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
In-Reply-To: <000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>
	<000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>
Message-ID: <000001c8762d$b18ddf50$6601a8c0@Robert>

Finally, the subject of tires.
My 2 cents worth

I also ran 205/70 Pirelli 4000. Great ride. 

Caution. Make sure all your front steering components are in good shape and
that the rear bushings are good and the camber is set. Tire rubbing on the
inner wheel well walls can be detrimental to your safety, your finances and
scary when they blow. Don't ask me how I know.

Robert L. Gannon
http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Feb 23 11:42:30 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 10:42:30 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>
	<000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>
	<000001c8762d$b18ddf50$6601a8c0@Robert>
Message-ID: <001101c8764b$d8bd79a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

I have older 185-15 tires on my car that should be replaced.
The car tracks perfectly straight on any road at any speed hands off no
problem.
That said, does the point made regarding changing to 205/70 tires mean they
might bring out a steering component problem?
Regards,
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Robert Liam Gannon" <trsix74 at comcast.net>
To: "'Six Pack'" <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:06 AM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire sizes


> Finally, the subject of tires.
> My 2 cents worth
>
> I also ran 205/70 Pirelli 4000. Great ride.
>
> Caution. Make sure all your front steering components are in good shape
and
> that the rear bushings are good and the camber is set. Tire rubbing on the
> inner wheel well walls can be detrimental to your safety, your finances
and
> scary when they blow. Don't ask me how I know.
>
> Robert L. Gannon
> http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From trsix74 at comcast.net  Sat Feb 23 10:15:42 2008
From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:15:42 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
In-Reply-To: <001101c8764b$d8bd79a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>
	<000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw>
	<000001c8762d$b18ddf50$6601a8c0@Robert>
	<001101c8764b$d8bd79a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c8763f$bab4fde0$6601a8c0@Robert>

Bob wrote: I have older 185-15 tires on my car that should be replaced.
The car tracks perfectly straight on any road at any speed hands off no
problem.
That said, does the point made regarding changing to 205/70 tires mean they
might bring out a steering component problem.



In my experience, no. If all your components are in good shape, you should
not have any issues. 
When I purchased my new set of 205/70's my suspension, as in bushings,
trunnions, etc. were old, worn and in need of exchange. Due to this all four
wheel had a negative camber in extreme. (Looked Hot) With the wider tires I
experienced rubbing on the inner walls against the wheel well. So I spent
money on new parts and more money on replacement tires. As I did not have a
shop do the mounting and alignment on the car when buying new tires, they
could not warn me of the hazards I was creating, nor were they liable.

(This is about the only time I will admit to doing something foolish;
normally it is always someone else's fault and generally the DPO. So put
this one in your scrapbook for posterity!)  

Robert L. Gannon
http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Sat Feb 23 10:32:01 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:32:01 -0500
Subject: [6pack] lucas points
In-Reply-To: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <000801c875c8$27f44cd0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <47C05891.6070807@maine.rr.com>

Oliver;

Looks like it's still a good P/N at BP Northwest for a host of models 
using the 22D to 25D dizzy's

http://www.bpnorthwest.com/.sc/ms/dd/TR250-6/7976/Points%20and%20Condenser%20Kit%20

also good for  a '65-71 E-Type and other Jags

http://www.who-sells-it.com/images/catalogs/670/pdf_9425.pdf

and Minis:
http://www.minimania.com/web/Item/DTB150/AddedFrom/Search/InvDetail.cfm

Dave
'74-Six
             

Oliver wrote:

>http://www.ranteer.com/misc/
>
>this part has been around for a while.  does anyone have the reference to tell
>me what British car it fits?
>
>thanks!
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
>http://www.team.net/archive
>
>You are subscribed as forzion at maine.rr.com

From Jsut4fun at aol.com  Sat Feb 23 10:39:32 2008
From: Jsut4fun at aol.com (Jsut4fun at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 12:39:32 EST
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
Message-ID: <cca.281bfad0.34f1b454@aol.com>

There is currently a very nice looking 1976 TR6 on ebay that is an  orange 
color.  I believe that the seller calls it the rare color "dark  yellow".  The 
seller states that the car is original and unrestored with  the original paint. 
 For some reason I do not remember this color.  Is  this an original Triumph 
color?
Ken
CF55382



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 23 10:44:30 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 09:44:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <cca.281bfad0.34f1b454@aol.com>
Message-ID: <757821.44556.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Ken,

There's a orange or Topaz colour on '75 models only &
then Inca Yellow...take the mimosa & add some red &
you have Inca.  See Pat Pinkston's car.

Cheers,

Todd
--- Jsut4fun at aol.com wrote:

> There is currently a very nice looking 1976 TR6 on
> ebay that is an  orange 
> color.  I believe that the seller calls it the rare
> color "dark  yellow".  The 
> seller states that the car is original and
> unrestored with  the original paint. 
>  For some reason I do not remember this color.  Is 
> this an original Triumph 
> color?
> Ken
> CF55382
> 
> 
> 
> **************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch
> video on AOL Living.      
>
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
> 2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
>


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Sat Feb 23 11:19:40 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 13:19:40 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
In-Reply-To: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802231314200.32428@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

Of the choices that you suggest, the 205/70-15 is closest to the stock 
tire rolling diameter. The 205/75-15 is a tad taller than stock, so your 
speedo will read about 2% slower than you're going. The 205/70 is about 1% 
shorter than stock, so your speedo always reads 1% faster than you're 
going.

Note that 1 or 2% is well within the margin of error for most 
speedometers, so the answer is that either tire size would be fine. I have 
a hunch that there are more choices out there for the 205/70-15 size.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From stan.foster at hp.com  Sat Feb 23 11:21:24 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:21:24 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <cca.281bfad0.34f1b454@aol.com>
References: <cca.281bfad0.34f1b454@aol.com>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736C8F@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

It is ebay item 330213754516

I was expecting to see Saffron but it looks rather too orange for that. Not a
color that I am familiar with but a nice looking TR6 though.

Here is an example of Saffron that looks correct to me

http://www.classic-marques.co.uk/Maple%20TR6%20018.jpg


Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Jsut4fun at aol.com
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 12:40 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car

There is currently a very nice looking 1976 TR6 on ebay that is an  orange
color.  I believe that the seller calls it the rare color "dark  yellow".
The
seller states that the car is original and unrestored with  the original
paint.
 For some reason I do not remember this color.  Is  this an original Triumph
color?
Ken
CF55382

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Sat Feb 23 11:47:41 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 13:47:41 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <cca.281bfad0.34f1b454@aol.com>
References: <cca.281bfad0.34f1b454@aol.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802231346340.32428@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

The paint code is 84 which is called Topaz.

The eBay ad item number is 330213754516

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sat Feb 23 14:49:03 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:49:03 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <000c01c87665$e964c910$800101df@garage.local>

Greetings to all!  I hope you are having a pleasant weekend!

ISOA has decided to purchase the Stag in Indianapolis.  I will be posting
pictures soon.

As such, we will soon be sending them a check with all the proceeds of your
incredibly generous donations.

Those who have not yet sent in your pledge amounts, we would really appreciate
it if you could get it off soon.

Thanks again to each and every one of you.

btw we will continue to accept donations here at the Red River Triumph Club as
long as they keep coming in, and will then forward all proceeds to the Charity
Drive.

From rnorris1 at swbell.net  Sat Feb 23 15:28:43 2008
From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 16:28:43 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
In-Reply-To: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802231314200.32428@isis.mit.edu>
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net>
	<Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802231314200.32428@isis.mit.edu>
Message-ID: <47C09E1B.5060006@swbell.net>

Thanks, Bob! After a few inquiries and web searches, I found that you 
are correct regarding there being more choices in the 70 series tires. 
There are a few 75's for passenger cars but most 205/75R15's seem to be 
light truck tires. Considering that the speedo will be nearly correct 
that'll be my choice.  Thanks again.

Rick

Robert Lang wrote:
> Hi,
>
> Of the choices that you suggest, the 205/70-15 is closest to the stock 
> tire rolling diameter. The 205/75-15 is a tad taller than stock, so 
> your speedo will read about 2% slower than you're going. The 205/70 is 
> about 1% shorter than stock, so your speedo always reads 1% faster 
> than you're going.
>
> Note that 1 or 2% is well within the margin of error for most 
> speedometers, so the answer is that either tire size would be fine. I 
> have a hunch that there are more choices out there for the 205/70-15 
> size.
>
> regards,
> rml
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 
>
> Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
> Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
> Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
> --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 

From TR6UO at aol.com  Sat Feb 23 15:49:40 2008
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 17:49:40 EST
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
Message-ID: <c12.2bdd0400.34f1fd04@aol.com>

I've only seen that color on the MGB up to 1976; it was called "Bracken".  
I've never seen it on a TR of any year.
 
Steve



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 23 16:01:37 2008
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:01:37 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] coughing and burping
Message-ID: <22077.76772.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Well, it must be because many of you are in the
cooooold north and unable to use your TR's in the way
they were intended - today.
But here in Jacksonville it was quite warm today and
after all else was done, I decided to go for a drive.
I had mentioned that the TR was doing funny things
related either to timing or carburation which caused
back firing and an odd lack of ommph when the gas was
applied. (did spell check on carburation and the
closest it came was CARBONATION)
Someone was thinking good thoughts while being cooped
up waiting for spring because when I started the 6 it
seemed like it was going to be a really rough trip.
I played with the choke a little bit and in
frustration upped the revs higher than I like and held
them there for a minute or so.  Didn't make much
difference so I took off down the street popping and
sputtering.  As I turned on to Losco Road (you can
look it up on Google Earth:) ) the thing cleared up 
and ran like a champ.  Not a cough or backfire to be
heard.
SO OFF I WENT!  Just a trip around the south side of
Jacksonville totally on divided high way at Interstate
speeds and the thing ran great.  It was then, while
running at 70 mph with the top down that I thought of
you guys still in the snow and ice and how you must be
projecting your desire to be out driving and it must
have hit an ice crystal or snow flake and gotten
focused on my engine and  caused it to run right.

Or I'm the flake who fluked into a lucky ride. 
Anyway, keep thinking those good thoughts:) 
Springtime is just around the corner and you guys get
to drive curvy, hilly back roads and smell the
springtime, then summer comes and you can smell the
hay while I  suffer with 95 degree temp's 100%
humidity and flat, arrow straight roads for as far as
the eye can see. 
Thanks for the good vibes & my car thanks you too.

John Summers
'74 TR 6 
  




      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat Feb 23 16:06:54 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:06:54 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <c12.2bdd0400.34f1fd04@aol.com>
References: <c12.2bdd0400.34f1fd04@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47C0A70E.6000402@snet.net>

I have a 1976 TR6 color chart.  No orange, just Inca yellow and pimento 
that year.  John Mitchell  76 TR6

TR6UO at aol.com wrote:
> I've only seen that color on the MGB up to 1976; it was called "Bracken".  
> I've never seen it on a TR of any year.
>  
> Steve

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sat Feb 23 19:38:33 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 18:38:33 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
References: <c12.2bdd0400.34f1fd04@aol.com> <47C0A70E.6000402@snet.net>
Message-ID: <003e01c8768e$59b77cd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Paint and trim codes chart from International TR Registry.
Bob

http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
To: <TR6UO at aol.com>
Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <Jsut4fun at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car


> I have a 1976 TR6 color chart.  No orange, just Inca yellow and pimento
> that year.  John Mitchell  76 TR6
>
> TR6UO at aol.com wrote:
> > I've only seen that color on the MGB up to 1976; it was called
"Bracken".
> > I've never seen it on a TR of any year.
> >
> > Steve
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Sat Feb 23 16:43:45 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 15:43:45 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <47C0A70E.6000402@snet.net>
Message-ID: <331930.11678.qm@web43142.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

interesting...the amber lenses up front indicate 76,
but i thought topaz was only available in '75


--- John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net> wrote:

> I have a 1976 TR6 color chart.  No orange, just Inca
> yellow and pimento 
> that year.  John Mitchell  76 TR6
> 
> TR6UO at aol.com wrote:
> > I've only seen that color on the MGB up to 1976;
> it was called "Bracken".  
> > I've never seen it on a TR of any year.
> >  
> > Steve
>


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat Feb 23 20:18:57 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 22:18:57 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <003e01c8768e$59b77cd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <c12.2bdd0400.34f1fd04@aol.com> <47C0A70E.6000402@snet.net>
	<003e01c8768e$59b77cd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <47C0E221.3040909@snet.net>

That's weird, because I have an original 76 dealer color chart and it 
does not list many of the colors on your chart.  I guess pimento could 
be considered an orange, but it's much redder than in the ebay picture.  
John

Bob wrote:
> Paint and trim codes chart from International TR Registry.
> Bob
>
> http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php
>
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
> To: <TR6UO at aol.com>
> Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <Jsut4fun at aol.com>
> Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:06 PM
> Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car
>
>
>   
>> I have a 1976 TR6 color chart.  No orange, just Inca yellow and pimento
>> that year.  John Mitchell  76 TR6
>>
>> TR6UO at aol.com wrote:
>>     
>>> I've only seen that color on the MGB up to 1976; it was called
>>>       
> "Bracken".
>   
>>> I've never seen it on a TR of any year.
>>>
>>> Steve
>>>       
>> _______________________________________________
>>
>> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>>
>> 6pack at autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>>
>> http://www.team.net/archive
>>
>> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From jmitch at snet.net  Sat Feb 23 20:27:51 2008
From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell)
Date: Sat, 23 Feb 2008 22:27:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Filling the Transmission
Message-ID: <47C0E437.50900@snet.net>

    I drained the oil from my overdrive transmission on the TR6 
tonight.  I had a leaky gasket on the filter cover and I replaced it.  
When refilling, do I just need to fill until oil runs out of the filler 
and I'm done,  or does the overdrive need to be used and the level 
rechecked?  Thanks,   John Mitchell  76 TR6

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Feb 24 08:03:57 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 07:03:57 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
References: <c12.2bdd0400.34f1fd04@aol.com> <47C0A70E.6000402@snet.net>
	<003e01c8768e$59b77cd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<47C0E221.3040909@snet.net>
Message-ID: <000401c876f6$7b05cff0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Hi John,
The same color chart as attached is in the Feb'08 Moss Motors catalog on
page 63.
Topaz color #84 is DuPont Lacquer 44880LH.
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
To: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Cc: <TR6UO at aol.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; <Jsut4fun at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car


> That's weird, because I have an original 76 dealer color chart and it
> does not list many of the colors on your chart.  I guess pimento could
> be considered an orange, but it's much redder than in the ebay picture.
> John
>
> Bob wrote:
> > Paint and trim codes chart from International TR Registry.
> > Bob
> >
> > http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
> > To: <TR6UO at aol.com>
> > Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <Jsut4fun at aol.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:06 PM
> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car
> >
> >
> >
> >> I have a 1976 TR6 color chart.  No orange, just Inca yellow and pimento
> >> that year.  John Mitchell  76 TR6
> >>
> >> TR6UO at aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> I've only seen that color on the MGB up to 1976; it was called
> >>>
> > "Bracken".
> >
> >>> I've never seen it on a TR of any year.
> >>>
> >>> Steve
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> 6pack at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Feb 24 09:30:48 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 08:30:48 -0800
Subject: [6pack] paint, black back cars ??
References: <22077.76772.qm@web36204.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <008201c87702$9cf98fa0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

The eBay car created a lot of paint response questions and answers.
I have seen many pictures of early sixes of different years with and without
black back paint.
Does anyone know the story on black back paint?
Regards,
Bob

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Feb 24 07:15:50 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 09:15:50 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Brake Assembly Questions
Message-ID: <000601c876ef$c3c94cf0$210110ac@bobspc>

Back from a week in sunny and warm Florida and time to get serious about
having the car back on the road by mid-March! First up is getting the brakes
squared away.

I'll be re-assembling the rear end of the car this week with mostly new
brake components including: braided hose, brake cylinder, Kevlar shoes,
springs, spring clips, spring plate, locking plate, dust cover etc. The
adjuster assembly was removed and cleaned up. My question is...what parts
should be "lubed" during assembly? Anything that has metal to metal contact?
I saw where one person put some lube on the back plate where it came in
contact with the shoes. And what do you recommend for a lube?

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1295 - Release Date: 2/23/2008
9:35 PM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 24 08:01:06 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 09:01:06 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <000a01c876f6$1766e1f0$800101df@garage.local>

I have just updated the website with pictures and a new total of $3,800
collected out of $5,800 pledged.

THE STAG!!! is featured!  Coming soon to a neighborhood near you!!!!  (Well,
in a year of so . . .)

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sun Feb 24 09:20:00 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:20:00 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <000401c876f6$7b05cff0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
References: <c12.2bdd0400.34f1fd04@aol.com>
	<47C0A70E.6000402@snet.net><003e01c8768e$59b77cd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com><47C0E221.3040909@snet.net><000401c876f6$7b05cff0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <991820308-1203870175-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-39873380-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

There are two cars of a similar color on e-bay. A 72 saffron convertible top and a 75 Topaz with a hardtop. Both colors were originally available the year the car was made. The fact that there are two cars may be cauising the confusion. 

Lou
 

-----Original Message-----
From: Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net>

Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 07:03:57 
To:John Mitchell <jmitch at snet.net>
Cc:TR6UO at aol.com, Jsut4fun at aol.com, 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car


Hi John,
The same color chart as attached is in the Feb'08 Moss Motors catalog on
page 63.
Topaz color #84 is DuPont Lacquer 44880LH.
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
To: "Bob" <rpeglow at optonline.net>
Cc: <TR6UO at aol.com>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; <Jsut4fun at aol.com>
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 7:18 PM
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car


> That's weird, because I have an original 76 dealer color chart and it
> does not list many of the colors on your chart.  I guess pimento could
> be considered an orange, but it's much redder than in the ebay picture.
> John
>
> Bob wrote:
> > Paint and trim codes chart from International TR Registry.
> > Bob
> >
> > http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php
> >
> > ----- Original Message ----- 
> > From: "John Mitchell" <jmitch at snet.net>
> > To: <TR6UO at aol.com>
> > Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net>; <Jsut4fun at aol.com>
> > Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 3:06 PM
> > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car
> >
> >
> >
> >> I have a 1976 TR6 color chart.  No orange, just Inca yellow and pimento
> >> that year.  John Mitchell  76 TR6
> >>
> >> TR6UO at aol.com wrote:
> >>
> >>> I've only seen that color on the MGB up to 1976; it was called
> >>>
> > "Bracken".
> >
> >>> I've never seen it on a TR of any year.
> >>>
> >>> Steve
> >>>
> >> _______________________________________________
> >>
> >> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
> >>
> >> 6pack at autox.team.net
> >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
> >>
> >> http://www.team.net/archive
> >>
> >> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net
_______________________________________________

Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html

6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From lfm614 at aol.com  Sun Feb 24 09:22:01 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:22:01 +0000
Subject: [6pack] paint, black back cars ??
Message-ID: <558736828-1203870296-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2002389621-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Black paint on the back?  That came standard on all 6's from factory.  Some owners don't care for it and leave it off during repaint.  

Lou
------Original Message------
From: Bob
Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net
To: TR-6 list
Sent: Feb 24, 2008 10:30 AM
Subject: [6pack] paint, black back cars ??

The eBay car created a lot of paint response questions and answers.
I have seen many pictures of early sixes of different years with and without
black back paint.
Does anyone know the story on black back paint?
Regards,
Bob
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From johnlink1 at comcast.net  Sun Feb 24 09:43:31 2008
From: johnlink1 at comcast.net (John Linkosky)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 11:43:31 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ebay TR6 color
Message-ID: <00a701c87704$642c2b90$2c8482b0$@net>

I have a 76 TR6 that is in original Mimosa paint. The color charts I have
seen don't show Mimosa as being offered in 76, but my car is proof the
charts are not always correct. I had a 75 that was painted Topaz and it
looked similar to the ebay car color, though not exactly the same, as I
remember it. John

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Sun Feb 24 13:30:42 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 12:30:42 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Ebay TR6 color
References: <00a701c87704$642c2b90$2c8482b0$@net>
Message-ID: <000801c87724$2065ce50$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Someone else mentioned that cars were given the year they were sold.
My chassis # says it was built in 197. The first owner registered it in
1971, it is 71 by the first title.
Maybe your serial number will show it was built in 1975?  Mimosa color is
listed for 75s.
Bob
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "John Linkosky" <johnlink1 at comcast.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 8:43 AM
Subject: [6pack] Ebay TR6 color


> I have a 76 TR6 that is in original Mimosa paint. The color charts I have
> seen don't show Mimosa as being offered in 76, but my car is proof the
> charts are not always correct. I had a 75 that was painted Topaz and it
> looked similar to the ebay car color, though not exactly the same, as I
> remember it. John
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From jsvannorman at gmail.com  Sun Feb 24 12:57:50 2008
From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 14:57:50 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ted Schumacher in Hemmings
Message-ID: <d8ff30d40802241157o45aa074dhdc59152083cf5a62@mail.gmail.com>

Forgive me if someone else has already pointed this out, but fellow
6-packer Ted Schumacher has a really nice short article in the March
2008 issue of Hemmings Motor News on page 46.  For a young guy like me
(we'll, 32) who is an attorney who does contract work, and lives in
the  "I agree to what I am signing and what I am siging I agreed
to..." world Ted laments, it is refreshing to hear stories like Ted's.

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
CF 28149U
-- 
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Sun Feb 24 13:49:23 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:49:23 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Ted Schumacher in Hemmings
In-Reply-To: <d8ff30d40802241157o45aa074dhdc59152083cf5a62@mail.gmail.com>
References: <d8ff30d40802241157o45aa074dhdc59152083cf5a62@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <000001c87726$beceddf0$210110ac@bobspc>

John,
I saw that article too while hanging out in Borders waiting for my wife. A
real nice article that leaves you wondering........who did get that TR3 he
found? 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of John VanNorman
Sent: Sunday, February 24, 2008 2:58 PM
To: 6-Pack
Subject: [6pack] Ted Schumacher in Hemmings

Forgive me if someone else has already pointed this out, but fellow 6-packer
Ted Schumacher has a really nice short article in the March
2008 issue of Hemmings Motor News on page 46.  For a young guy like me
(we'll, 32) who is an attorney who does contract work, and lives in the  "I
agree to what I am signing and what I am siging I agreed to..." world Ted
laments, it is refreshing to hear stories like Ted's.

John V.
1974 1/2 TR6
CF 28149U
--
www.vannorman.hobby-site.com
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1295 - Release Date: 2/23/2008
9:35 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.20.9/1295 - Release Date: 2/23/2008
9:35 PM

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Sun Feb 24 14:38:32 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 15:38:32 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Triumph Trans AmeriCan 2009 Charity Drive
Message-ID: <002801c8772d$e7147390$800101df@garage.local>

sorry - http://www.ranteer.com/misc2

From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org  Sun Feb 24 21:02:03 2008
From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 21:02:03 -0700
Subject: [6pack] John Macartney Charity 2009 Drive- Stag Restoration - update
In-Reply-To: <005201c866e4$1667b0d0$800101df@garage.local>
References: <005201c866e4$1667b0d0$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <47C23DBB.1060300@tscusa.org>

Hello All,

We have selected the Stag that will be the subject of the full concours 
restoration, and it will be prepared by the Illinois Sports Owners 
Association and Triumph Stag Club USA members, beginning in about 2 
weeks.  Currently about 51 individuals and US Triumph Clubs have kicked 
in to purchase the car and begin the restoration, and the list of 
pledges is growing.  http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/
Please, if you can help support this effort, we would love to add your 
pledge to the growing list.  If in the UK, contact John Macartney for 
donations standardtriumph at btinternet.com

Within a few weekends, the disassembly should commence toward a full 
restoration. Photos of the progress and restoration teams will be 
available on the TTA web site at regular intervals.

As this restoration progresses, I will be asking for continued help from 
various suppliers, services, groups and individuals.  My hope is that 
enough donations will be received to completely restore this Stag 
without the need for the main charity to have to use some of its funds 
that would otherwise go to charity.

However, at this time I am looking for the parts for a Tate & Lewis 
conversion ZF 4 or 5 speed Automatic - for the Triumph Trans AmeriCan 
2009 Charity Drive Stag that will be driven by John Macartney for 10,000 
miles around North America. http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/

Does anyone have contacts to purchase the parts needed for a ZF 
conversion, maybe someone would be so kind as to contact Tate & Lewis or 
Jonathan Finnis at Monarch directly to see if they will help support 
this cause somehow?
The car we picked out is a BW35 and I really do not want to send John 
off on a 10k mile drive around North America in a BW35 Stag driving our 
interstate highways at 4000 rpm.

My first option - request - is to have someone or a group donate or 
purchase the ZF conversion parts for the car.
Second option would be to purchase the conversion parts and source the 
ZF here in the USA.
Our fall back is to convert to a 4 speed with J type OD, but we would 
still need to source all the parts for that conversion.

So if anyone here can make inquiries and introductions to willing donors 
in this regard, myself, John Macartney, and the Charities benefiting 
from this Drive will greatly appreciate the efforts.

Thanks!

-- 
Glenn A. Merrell
Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009)
The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield!

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 25 06:49:51 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 08:49:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question
Message-ID: <000601c877b5$4d49d790$210110ac@bobspc>

Folks,
Part of Herman's 5 Speed conversion kit includes a bronze pilot bushing that
goes into the hole on the end of the crankshaft on the flywheel side.
However, Herman's stock bushing doesn't fit my crank. We spoke last night on
the phone and I sent him a  picture
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Crankshaft.htm) with measurements so he can
make me a new bushing. I know that there were 2 different crankshafts for
early vs late TR6's and it also looks like the Pilot Bushing on the '70-'76
TR6 was in the flywheel and not in the crankshaft. My Pilot Bushing is in
the flywheel. TRF shows a short type bushing ('70-'76) and a long type
bushing ('68-'70). My engine block is CF38133UE and I know the previous
owner had the engine rebuilt a few years before I bought the car but I have
no idea what he put in the block. 

So does anyone have access to the end of their crank to take a few
measurements like I show in the picture at the link above? It would help me
and I know it would help Herman. I'd also be interested to know if the Pilot
Bushing is in the crank or the flywheel for your year TR6.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.0/1296 - Release Date: 2/24/2008
12:19 PM

From Vsnively at aol.com  Mon Feb 25 07:02:08 2008
From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 09:02:08 EST
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question
Message-ID: <d08.2bfe18e2.34f42460@aol.com>

In a message dated 2/25/2008 8:50:39 AM Eastern Standard Time,  
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes:

Folks,
Part of Herman's 5 Speed conversion kit includes a bronze  pilot bushing that
goes into the hole on the end of the crankshaft on the  flywheel side.
However, Herman's stock bushing doesn't fit my crank. We  spoke last night on
the phone and I sent him a   picture
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Crankshaft.htm) with measurements  so he can
make me a new bushing. I know that there were 2 different  crankshafts for
early vs late TR6's and it also looks like the Pilot  Bushing on the '70-'76
TR6 was in the flywheel and not in the crankshaft.  My Pilot Bushing is in
the flywheel. TRF shows a short type bushing  ('70-'76) and a long type
bushing ('68-'70). My engine block is CF38133UE  and I know the previous
owner had the engine rebuilt a few years before I  bought the car but I have
no idea what he put in the block. 

So does  anyone have access to the end of their crank to take a few
measurements  like I show in the picture at the link above? It would help me
and I know  it would help Herman. I'd also be interested to know if the Pilot
Bushing  is in the crank or the flywheel for your year TR6.

Thanks

Bob  Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body  Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 



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12:19  PM
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You  are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) 





Bob,
 
   Apologies for no help with the dimensional info, but the  standard pilot 
bushing for my late-'75 wouldn't fit either. I also tried the  early-version, 
no luck. Turns out, after talking to Dave at TRF, who went out of  his way to 
measure their pilot bushings, it required a GT6 bushing. I know that  a 
preivious owner had been into the clutch, but I can't imagine that the  flywheel or 
crank would have been changed.
 
Regards,
Vic Snively
'75 TR6  w/AC



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 25 08:39:03 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 15:39:03 +0000
Subject: [6pack] paint, black back cars ??
In-Reply-To: <558736828-1203870296-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2002389621-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
References: <558736828-1203870296-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2002389621-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W1D769C3CBA3A83111ECCF8E180@phx.gbl>

I heard someone somewhere say the black back gives the illusion of a wider car
than it really is. All I know is, a TR6 that is body color in the back is an
ugly little car, IMO of course. I don't know, they just don't look right. I
always take it as a restore shop that didn't know better, not an owner that
preferred it that way. You see some strange things on E-bay, like union-jacks
put on backwards, etc.

Sloane :)
'69-Six> To: rpeglow at optonline.net; 6pack at autox.team.net> From:
lfm614 at aol.com> Date: Sun, 24 Feb 2008 16:22:01 +0000> Subject: Re: [6pack]
paint, black back cars ??> > Black paint on the back? That came standard on
all 6's from factory. Some owners don't care for it and leave it off during
repaint. > > Lou
_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb 25 09:23:39 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 08:23:39 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
In-Reply-To: <000a01c8763f$bab4fde0$6601a8c0@Robert>
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net><000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw><000001c8762d$b18ddf50$6601a8c0@Robert><001101c8764b$d8bd79a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<000a01c8763f$bab4fde0$6601a8c0@Robert>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034DD5D2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Robert:

	For the sake of the newbies on the list, I wanted to mention
again that "old" tires should not be regarded as safe. IF you have a set
of redlines on your car, check carefully for the date of manufacture.
Ford is now recommending that tires be replaced every seven years no
matter how much tread remains. This came out of the explorer exploding
tire debacle, when it was determine that older tires had more of a
problem than newer tires.
	Ozone attacks the rubber even when the car is just sitting. The
tire will begin to check and split, and risk of a blowout rises sharply.
	So inspect those old redlines folks. If they are checking, or if
they are more than 7 years old, you are running on borrowed time. Be
careful out there...

	Vance



-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Robert Liam Gannon
Sent: Saturday, February 23, 2008 9:16 AM
To: 'Bob'; 'Six Pack'
Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire sizes

Bob wrote: I have older 185-15 tires on my car that should be replaced.
The car tracks perfectly straight on any road at any speed hands off no
problem.
That said, does the point made regarding changing to 205/70 tires mean
they
might bring out a steering component problem.


<snip>

Robert L. Gannon
http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html
_______________________________________________

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Feb 25 09:29:15 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 11:29:15 -0500
Subject: [6pack] paint, black back cars ??
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W1D769C3CBA3A83111ECCF8E180@phx.gbl>
References: <558736828-1203870296-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-2002389621-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>
	<BLU118-W1D769C3CBA3A83111ECCF8E180@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <000301c877cb$93ecdf60$bbc69e20$@com>

Different opinions and likes/dislikes I suppose and no offense intended:  I
intentionally left the back of bowtie6 body colour.  I am no traditionalist
and prefer the body colour in the back.  I also left the windshield frame,
body colour.  Besides, the way I see it, when I paid $500 a gallon for
DuPont ChromaBase for pure Red, then it would be a sacrilege to cover it up
with black paint.  

To you the TR6 is an ugly little car with the back painted black.  I favour
that and there is an added benefit:  it gets noticed.  I guess this
infuriates 'purists' and that to me is a priceless bonus...

I guess to each his own...

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im
sloane
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:39
To: TR-6 list
Subject: Re: [6pack] paint, black back cars ??

I heard someone somewhere say the black back gives the illusion of a wider
car
than it really is. All I know is, a TR6 that is body color in the back is an
ugly little car, IMO of course. I don't know, they just don't look right. I
always take it as a restore shop that didn't know better, not an owner that
preferred it that way. You see some strange things on E-bay, like
union-jacks
put on backwards, etc.

From grant at bowtie6.com  Mon Feb 25 09:32:41 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 11:32:41 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034DD5D2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net><000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw><000001c8762d$b18ddf50$6601a8c0@Robert><001101c8764b$d8bd79a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<000a01c8763f$bab4fde0$6601a8c0@Robert>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034DD5D2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <000401c877cc$0e5e6480$2b1b2d80$@com>

The 'life' of tires has been discussed before.  I have a very good friend of
mine who is a tire designer for the big French tire manufacturer.  He and I
have discussed this issue at length, and running tires that have been
exposed to UV and the elements for 5-6 years is 'asking' for it.  There is a
degradation in the rubber compound and grip is reduced as the tire ages with
heat cycles and just exposure to elements.

Something to keep in mind.  Your mileage may vary...

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 11:24
To: Robert Liam Gannon; Bob; Six Pack
Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire sizes

 	Robert:

	For the sake of the newbies on the list, I wanted to mention
again that "old" tires should not be regarded as safe. IF you have a set
of redlines on your car, check carefully for the date of manufacture.
Ford is now recommending that tires be replaced every seven years no
matter how much tread remains. This came out of the explorer exploding
tire debacle, when it was determine that older tires had more of a
problem than newer tires.
	Ozone attacks the rubber even when the car is just sitting. The
tire will begin to check and split, and risk of a blowout rises sharply.
	So inspect those old redlines folks. If they are checking, or if
they are more than 7 years old, you are running on borrowed time. Be
careful out there...

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Mon Feb 25 10:04:33 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:04:33 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Tire sizes
In-Reply-To: <000401c877cc$0e5e6480$2b1b2d80$@com>
References: <47BF93E1.1090405@swbell.net><000b01c875d5$854fea30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw><000001c8762d$b18ddf50$6601a8c0@Robert><001101c8764b$d8bd79a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
	<000a01c8763f$bab4fde0$6601a8c0@Robert>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034DD5D2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<000401c877cc$0e5e6480$2b1b2d80$@com>
Message-ID: <BLU118-W32E18257A0B71D273E02738E180@phx.gbl>

I can say from experience that a blow-out at 70mph, luckily on the rear, does
a real number on the rear fender. In my case I had run over a huge transistion
between road and bridge that busted the steel belts in both right side tires,
and about 50 miles later the rear one blew. Of course I didn't know before
because the little car is so bumpy and shakey anyway I hadn't really noticed,
or just tended to ignore the signs. Upon seeing the hidden damage to the front
right, I remembered that bridge that jarred my teeth.

Anyway, these were 13 year old red-lines, and I dumbly would still be running
them if that had not happened. And, yes that was more than 5-6 years ago. It's
hard to just throw away tires with only a few thousand miles on them. I need
to drive the thing more. I guess storing it inside in a warm basement may help
on the degradation somewhat.

Sloane :)
69-Six> From: grant at bowtie6.com> To: vance.navarrette at intel.com;
trsix74 at comcast.net; rpeglow at optonline.net; 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Mon,
25 Feb 2008 11:32:41 -0500> Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire sizes> > The 'life' of
tires has been discussed before. I have a very good friend of> mine who is a
tire designer for the big French tire manufacturer. He and I> have discussed
this issue at length, and running tires that have been> exposed to UV and the
elements for 5-6 years is 'asking' for it. There is a> degradation in the
rubber compound and grip is reduced as the tire ages with> heat cycles and
just exposure to elements.> > Something to keep in mind. Your mileage may
vary...> > Joe> '72 TR6 - CC77169> http://www.bowtie6.com/>
_________________________________________________________________
Helping your favorite cause is as easy as instant messaging. You IM, we give.
http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/Home/?source=text_hotmail_join

From ms6453 at optonline.net  Mon Feb 25 10:48:17 2008
From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:48:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question
In-Reply-To: <d08.2bfe18e2.34f42460@aol.com>
References: <d08.2bfe18e2.34f42460@aol.com>
Message-ID: <48AEF7677DA84B4AB57EC06E6F864C0B@marcydesk>

Bob,

I had the same problem but I was installing the W58 along with a Fidanza 
alum flywheel. I ended up shipping my flywheel to Herman & he machined a 
pilot bushing that pushed in to the crank bore. I can send you pics if you 
need. Ask Herman about the bushing he made for Mitch Seff. Contact me if you 
need more info.



Mitch Seff

From acs25m at swbell.net  Mon Feb 25 11:17:35 2008
From: acs25m at swbell.net (acs25m at swbell.net)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 10:17:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question
Message-ID: <331057.14821.qm@web81601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Bob,
  I just finished putting my trans and engine back into the car two weeks ago. I have a TR250 and the bushing you are talking about is supposed to be in the end of the crankshaft according to the book. Mine however wasn't in the end of the crank but in the back of the flywheel and against the flat end of the crankshaft. I can only assume that someone has altered the parts in my engine with parts from later years. You may have the same problem. Good luck!
  John Maneke

From triosan at gmail.com  Mon Feb 25 11:45:01 2008
From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 10:45:01 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Weber DCOE fuel inlet parts
Message-ID: <8cbd782d0802251045u549e9a7bldf7872b71b803dc8@mail.gmail.com>

I have a set of triple Weber DCOEs.  The fiber/cotton?? washers surrounding
the banjo bolts on the fuel inlets have deteriorated to the point they
leak.  I cannot find replacement parts.  The outer one is 15mm, but crush
washers come only in14 [too small] and 16 [too big].  The Carb supplier I
usually use says they are not available.  Does any one have a source?

-- 
Chuck Arnold

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 25 12:22:00 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 14:22:00 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question
In-Reply-To: <331057.14821.qm@web81601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <331057.14821.qm@web81601.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000401c877e3$b447b920$210110ac@bobspc>

John,
It's interesting because VB, TRF and Moss all have different Pilot Bushings
for early vs late TR6s. Moss Part # 330-370 says (in crankshaft) for TR250
and '69 TR6's while part # 330-500 says (in flywheel) for '70-'76 TR6s.  


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of acs25m at swbell.net
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 1:18 PM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question

Bob,
  I just finished putting my trans and engine back into the car two weeks
ago. I have a TR250 and the bushing you are talking about is supposed to be
in the end of the crankshaft according to the book. Mine however wasn't in
the end of the crank but in the back of the flywheel and against the flat
end of the crankshaft. I can only assume that someone has altered the parts
in my engine with parts from later years. You may have the same problem.
Good luck!
  John Maneke
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Mon Feb 25 13:11:57 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:11:57 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Weber DCOE fuel inlet parts
In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0802251045u549e9a7bldf7872b71b803dc8@mail.gmail.com>
References: <8cbd782d0802251045u549e9a7bldf7872b71b803dc8@mail.gmail.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC034FC052@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Try here:


	http://www.metricmcc.com/catalog/Ch2/2-250.pdf

	15.2mm available off the shelf. Is that good enough?

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Chuck Arnold
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 10:45 AM
To: Friends; Triumph; Triumph Email List
Subject: [6pack] Weber DCOE fuel inlet parts

I have a set of triple Weber DCOEs.  The fiber/cotton?? washers
surrounding
the banjo bolts on the fuel inlets have deteriorated to the point they
leak.  I cannot find replacement parts.  The outer one is 15mm, but
crush
washers come only in14 [too small] and 16 [too big].  The Carb supplier
I
usually use says they are not available.  Does any one have a source?

--
Chuck Arnold

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Feb 25 13:54:03 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 12:54:03 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question
In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message
	of Mon, 25 Feb 2008 08:49:51 -0500
Message-ID: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>

Bob---The stock pilot bushing you should have  
 is captured  in the flywheel counterbore. It should be the same as (my)
the '73. That being an OD of 1.000 and a bore of .500 and a depth of
(non-critical).450. These measurements are taken from the one removed
from my engine.
The bushing that Herman provides also has the 1.000 OD, but with a
different.590 bore. The pilot bushing OD should be .585.  There should
be room in the flywheel/crankshaft for  bushing depth of 900, which is
deep enough for Herman's (steel) input shaft adapter bushing length of
.850 to go with the (bronze) pilot bushing depth of .625.

The original pilot shaft bushing bore of .500 is confirmed by noting
that the "dummy" splined shaft alignment tool is .495. Your measurement
of .750 is non-standard for the late engine, as is the 1-3/8".

If Herman is going to make you a special bushing to match your
measurements, then I'm sure you'll be happy with it.

Dick 

From: 

6pack] TR6 Crankshaft Question 

Folks, 
Part of Herman's 5 Speed conversion kit includes a bronze pilot bushing
that goes into the hole on the end of the crankshaft on the flywheel
side. However, Herman's stock bushing doesn't fit my crank. We spoke
last night on the phone and I sent him a picture 
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/Crankshaft.htm) with measurements so he
can make me a new bushing. I know that there were 2 different
crankshafts for early vs late TR6's and it also looks like the Pilot
Bushing on the '70-'76 TR6 was in the flywheel and not in the
crankshaft. My Pilot Bushing is in the flywheel. TRF shows a short type
bushing ('70-'76) and a long type bushing ('68-'70). My engine block is
CF38133UE and I know the previous owner had the engine rebuilt a few
years before I bought the car but I have no idea what he put in the
block. 
So does anyone have access to the end of their crank to take a few
measurements like I show in the picture at the link above? It would help
me and I know it would help Herman. I'd also be interested to know if
the Pilot Bushing is in the crank or the flywheel for your year TR6. 
Thanks 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 
No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. 
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12:19 PM ______________________________________________

From rivers2hills at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 25 14:15:35 2008
From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 13:15:35 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Tires - AAKKK!
Message-ID: <654781.26777.qm@web36213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

After reading the post's about tires and their
longevity I believe I'm way overdue.  I've had my TR6
ten years now and like most of us I'm sure, I don't
put a lot of miles on it so there isn't much wear on
the tires.  Some cracks in the side walls though. 
These tires were on it when I got it and who knows how
long they were on before I got it.
I've been thinking about changing them.  They are
Michelins.  Any one have any thoughts about other
brands.  I see some sweet looking tread patterns out
there,,, in my son's Subaru Magazines.  I don't drive
fast and I don't drive it hard.

John Summers


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Never miss a thing.  Make Yahoo your home page. 
http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 25 14:45:42 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 13:45:42 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
In-Reply-To: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>
Message-ID: <592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Hi All,

Just got an e-mail from Bruce Miles regarding the tech
articles...they're baaaaacccckkkkk!!!!

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Cheers,

Todd



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and 
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.  http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 25 15:19:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:19:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
In-Reply-To: <592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>
	<592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>

Great news.........the Buckeye articles are some of the best available! 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Todd Bermudez
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 4:46 PM
To: Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles

Hi All,

Just got an e-mail from Bruce Miles regarding the tech articles...they're
baaaaacccckkkkk!!!!

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Cheers,

Todd



 
____________________________________________________________________________
________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile.  Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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12:19 PM
 

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12:19 PM

From altomare.steven at gmail.com  Mon Feb 25 16:33:12 2008
From: altomare.steven at gmail.com (Steven Altomare)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 18:33:12 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Tires - AAKKK!
In-Reply-To: <654781.26777.qm@web36213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
References: <654781.26777.qm@web36213.mail.mud.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <f23b4b4d0802251533h1a019f25r487cd8f0d843a02f@mail.gmail.com>

On Mon, Feb 25, 2008 at 4:15 PM, John Summers <rivers2hills at yahoo.com> wrote:
  Some cracks in the side walls though.
> These tires were on it when I got it and who knows how
> long they were on before I got it.

You can easily find the age of your tires.  On the tire sidewall
should be the DOT code.  It is generally about 8 digits long (not
including the "DOT") although it doesn't have to be.  It begins with
"DOT", then some letters/numbers which indicate the plant where the
tires were made, and some manufacturer specific information.  The last
4 characters represent the age of the tire.  The last two digits
represent the year the tires were built, and the 2 digits before those
represent the week in which they were built.  So for example, 0508
means the fifth week of 2008.  This full code will only appear on one
side of the tire, the other side has a shorter code that doesn't
include the date.

Hope it helps...

Steven

From stuartt at tlthompson.com  Mon Feb 25 16:43:48 2008
From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:43:48 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net><592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
	<000c01c877fc$7ee61150$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <001601c87808$455f63d0$7407f746@Dell320>

Great resource!  

Already saved to my favorites. 

Thank you, 

Stuart


> http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Feb 25 17:13:00 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 16:13:00 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
In-Reply-To: Todd Bermudez <red_tr250@yahoo.com>'s message of Mon, 25
	Feb 2008 13:45:42 -0800 (PST)
Message-ID: <5078-47C3598C-6657@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net>

Todd---Good news indeed! The original author put a lot of work and clear
thinking into his articles.

Dick

Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From:
red_tr250 at yahoo.com(Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, Feb 25, 2008, 1:45pm To:
6pack at autox.team.net (Six Pack) Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech
Articles
Hi All,
Just got an e-mail from Bruce Miles regarding the tech
articles...they're baaaaacccckkkkk!!!!
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
Cheers,
Todd
            __________________________________
Be a better friend, newshound, and
know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now.
http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ
______________________________________________

From stan.foster at hp.com  Mon Feb 25 17:40:09 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 00:40:09 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
In-Reply-To: <592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
References: <3023-47C32AEB-6597@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net>
	<592630.8580.qm@web43143.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736E26@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

That's great, many people had squirreled away the material and were sharing it
and even publishing it on other web sites or digging it out of the internet
archives so removing it served no real purpose other than to irritate people
when they found a picture was missing.

Does this mean that Nelson is returning to the fold also or that he just gave
up trying to hide this collateral ?

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Todd
Bermudez
Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 4:46 PM
To: Six Pack
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles

Hi All,

Just got an e-mail from Bruce Miles regarding the tech
articles...they're baaaaacccckkkkk!!!!

http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm

Cheers,

Todd

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Mon Feb 25 18:01:40 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 20:01:40 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Another Brake Assembly Question
Message-ID: <003401c87813$27986670$210110ac@bobspc>

I've got the Trailing Arms, Springs and Shocks all installed. Next is
installing the hubs and rear brakes. My question is........can I assemble
all the rear brake components (cylinder, locking plates, handbrake lever,
adjuster, shoes etc) on the back plate and then attach it all to the
trailing arm/rear hub? It seems like it would be easier to re-assembly
everything on a workbench.

Thanks

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 

 

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12:19 PM

From red_tr250 at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 25 18:28:18 2008
From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 17:28:18 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1A736E26@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>
Message-ID: <912955.46188.qm@web43142.mail.sp1.yahoo.com>

Stan,

>From what I gather, Nelson is out of TRiumphs...hence
his name being deleted from the articles.  I also
understand that he wishes not to be contacted so I
suppose we should all be grateful for what he did &
leave it at that

Cheers,

Todd

--- "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster at hp.com> wrote:

> That's great, many people had squirreled away the
> material and were sharing it
> and even publishing it on other web sites or digging
> it out of the internet
> archives so removing it served no real purpose other
> than to irritate people
> when they found a picture was missing.
> 
> Does this mean that Nelson is returning to the fold
> also or that he just gave
> up trying to hide this collateral ?
> 
> Stan
> 
> -----Original Message-----
> From:
> 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
>
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net]
> On Behalf Of Todd
> Bermudez
> Sent: Monday, February 25, 2008 4:46 PM
> To: Six Pack
> Subject: [6pack] Buckeye TRiumph Tech Articles
> 
> Hi All,
> 
> Just got an e-mail from Bruce Miles regarding the
> tech
> articles...they're baaaaacccckkkkk!!!!
> 
>
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
> 
> Cheers,
> 
> Todd
>


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From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Mon Feb 25 20:27:34 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 21:27:34 -0600
Subject: [6pack] "new" 69 TR6
References: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan>
	<003201c872c2$72a1d710$54f30818@rolofson>
Message-ID: <000d01c87827$8913e820$800101df@garage.local>

in the process of replacing everything, i didn't get the points in right.
in trouble shooting i managed to create a short and "rough up" the points.

pulled the whole dizzy and took it to a mechanic friend of mine who
straightened everything out and told me that i had purchased the wrong
replacement coil.   he gave me a correct one.

life is good; the car now runs.  of course, the bad news is that now i have
an enormous amount of work to do <grin>

i'll post  a video soon.

From stagbytriumph at tscusa.org  Mon Feb 25 21:25:29 2008
From: stagbytriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 21:25:29 -0700
Subject: [6pack] [TR] John Macartney Charity 2009 Drive- Stag
 Restoration - update
In-Reply-To: <c75.277cfbcb.34f4289a@aol.com>
References: <c75.277cfbcb.34f4289a@aol.com>
Message-ID: <47C394B9.8030705@tscusa.org>

ZinkZ10C at aol.com wrote:
> In a message dated 2/24/08 11:05:59 PM Eastern Standard Time,
> StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes:
>
> << However, at this time I am looking for the parts for a Tate & Lewis   conver
> sion ZF 4 or 5 speed Automatic - >>
>
> It would be helpful to know what specific ZF model trans is needed and what
> cars it is typically found in.
>
> Harold
>
>   
Harold,
I am only now starting to look into this.  However I am told it is a 
jaguar ZF 4hp22 box with lock-up torque converter , using a mix of B/W 
35 /65 parts and jag parts.
There are more forum posts I need to go over to extract more details.

Glenn Merrell

From jb_2email at yahoo.com  Mon Feb 25 23:48:25 2008
From: jb_2email at yahoo.com (J B)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 22:48:25 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <003e01c8768e$59b77cd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>
Message-ID: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>

Thanks for the information. I do have one question...I
did not think the TR6 came in black from the factory
in the US? 

Your chart makes it look like it came in black in all
years.

JB
Chicago
74 TR6

--- Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:

> Paint and trim codes chart from International TR
> Registry.
> Bob
> 
>
http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php
> 


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From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Mon Feb 25 23:53:18 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 22:53:18 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Another Brake Assembly Question
In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message
	of Mon, 25 Feb 2008 20:01:40 -0500
Message-ID: <4458-47C3B75E-7085@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net>

Bob---The only drawback to assembing everything on the backplate while
it's off the trailing arm is that the studs of the t/a "anchor" the
backplate. You'll be fighting things while trying to connect the shoe
return springs.

Dick

From:
75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson[

I've got the Trailing Arms, Springs and Shocks all installed. Next is
installing the hubs and rear brakes. My question is........can I
assemble all the rear brake components (cylinder, locking plates,
handbrake lever, adjuster, shoes etc) on the back plate and then attach
it all to the trailing arm/rear hub? It seems like it would be easier to
re-assembly everything on a workbench.
Thanks
Bob
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection

From janah at att.net  Tue Feb 26 05:27:49 2008
From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 07:27:49 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Crankshafts & Pilot Bushings
Message-ID: <001101c87873$004f5370$c901a8c0@p4home>

I may be a little late on this but for what it is worth.

The TR250 and 1969 TR6 were fitted with crankshafts of a different design. 
It is known as the "long backed crank".  The "long backed" crankshafts used 
a longer pilot bushing that fit inside the back of the crankshaft.  The 
flywheel for this crank was of a different design and cannot be fitted to 
the later style crankshafts.

The later "short backed" crankshafts ran from 70-76.  These used a shorter 
pilot bushing and the pilot bushing fit inside the back of the flywheel. The 
flywheel for the "short backed" crank is not retrofittable to the earlier 
"long backed" version.

The entire run of engines could accept either crank/flywheel pair (you could 
put the late crank in the early engine and vice versa as long as you used 
the correct flywheel/pilot bushing for the crank). It would be odd to find 
an early crank in a later car simply because there were so many fewer of 
these cranks made.

So Bob, the CF cars should have the short backed crankshaft with the pilot 
bushing in the flywheel. It would appear that you have the standard set up 
for your year.

All well and good.  Now when I took my tranny out to have it rebuilt, I also 
decided to change the clutch at the same time after all it is just 
incremental work. Now since I was already in there it seemed that it would 
be the time to pull the flywheel and have it surfaced and balanced and a new 
ring gear installed (and down the rat-hole we go!).  Anyway, my car is a 70 
and it has the correct short backed crank and the short pilot bushing. There 
was a slight bit of wear on the edge of the hole in the bushing where the 
mainshaft of the transmission is supported, so I decided to replace the 
bushing.  I ordered the the correct short bushing from Vicky Brit and it was 
different! The bushing should fit into the engine side of the flywheel.  I 
do not think it is supposed to be a press fit, rather I think it is supposed 
to slide in. The OD of the new bushing was 0.005-0.010" wider than the old 
bushing (1.000") and it would not fit into the flywheel. Additionally, the 
old bushing was 0.500" thick.  The new bushing was 0.455" thick. Thinking I 
just got a bad bushing, I ordered another one from Rimmer Bros.  It was the 
same as the one from Vicky Brit. Basically it does not fit either. Rimmer 
was not much help.  They could not explain the difference in the bushing 
sizes.  So I made a chuck from a bolt and a couple of grommets, chucked the 
new bushing into the drill and turned it down using some fine grit sand 
paper. So now the new bushing fits inside of the flywheel, but it seems a 
little short and I really do not know what I will do - use the old bushing 
or try the new modified one.

John Cyg.

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Tue Feb 26 05:55:08 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 06:55:08 -0600
Subject: [6pack] was   Ebay Car; now TR6 Colors
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>

i also have a question - red interiors?  is that for real?


> Thanks for the information. I do have one question...I
> did not think the TR6 came in black from the factory
> in the US? 
> 
> Your chart makes it look like it came in black in all
> years.
> >>
> http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php

From rpeglow at optonline.net  Tue Feb 26 09:28:02 2008
From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 08:28:02 -0800
Subject: [6pack] was   Ebay Car; now TR6 Colors
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <004901c87894$8f14b110$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com>

Moss catalog shows Matador Red panel part numbers for TR250 - TR6,
1969 -1973.
But it says parts not available for 1969, sorry Oliver.
----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net>
To: <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 4:55 AM
Subject: [6pack] was Ebay Car; now TR6 Colors


> i also have a question - red interiors?  is that for real?
>
>
> > Thanks for the information. I do have one question...I
> > did not think the TR6 came in black from the factory
> > in the US?
> >
> > Your chart makes it look like it came in black in all
> > years.
> > >>
> > http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php
> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> 6pack at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack
>
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net

From lfm614 at aol.com  Tue Feb 26 07:34:48 2008
From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 14:34:48 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Ebay Car
In-Reply-To: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
References: <003e01c8768e$59b77cd0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com><752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <1020034607-1204036663-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-379521799-@bxe122.bisx.prod.on.blackberry>

Black was never offered as a full body color, it is there as a trim color for the kamm back (tail).  

Lou


 

-----Original Message-----
From: J B <jb_2email at yahoo.com>

Date: Mon, 25 Feb 2008 22:48:25 
To:6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Ebay Car


Thanks for the information. I do have one question...I
did not think the TR6 came in black from the factory
in the US? 

Your chart makes it look like it came in black in all
years.

JB
Chicago
74 TR6

--- Bob <rpeglow at optonline.net> wrote:

> Paint and trim codes chart from International TR
> Registry.
> Bob
> 
>
http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php
> 


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You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Tue Feb 26 12:55:18 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 11:55:18 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Crankshafts & Pilot Bushings
In-Reply-To: "John Cyganowski" <janah@att.net>'s message of Tue, 26 Feb
	2008 07:27:49 -0500
Message-ID: <25706-47C46EA6-4586@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net>

John C.---Sounds like a drawing got out that had the wrong OD for the
pilot bushing. I don't think any TR flywheel would accept a bushing that
was 1.010. (Good job on turning down the OD on the ones sent to you.)
 There should be no problem when using the bushing that is only .455
deep. It will support the tranny shaft just fine.
You are correct in that the bushing should be a slip fit in the
flywheel. When the bushing "floats" it should last twice as long as one
that doesn't float.

Dick

Sender: m.net From: janah at att.net(John Cyganowski)

I may be a little late on this but for what it is worth.....

...There was a slight bit of wear on the edge of the hole in the bushing
where the mainshaft of the transmission is supported, so I decided to
replace the bushing. I ordered the the correct short bushing from Vicky
Brit and it was different! The bushing should fit into the engine side
of the flywheel. I do not think it is supposed to be a press fit, rather
I think it is supposed to slide in. The OD of the new bushing was
0.005-0.010" wider than the old bushing (1.000") and it would not fit
into the flywheel. Additionally, the old bushing was 0.500" thick. The
new bushing was 0.455" thick. Thinking I just got a bad bushing, I
ordered another one from Rimmer Bros. It was the same as the one from
Vicky Brit. Basically it does not fit either. Rimmer was not much help.
They could not explain the difference in the bushing sizes. So I made a
chuck from a bolt and a couple of grommets, chucked the new bushing into
the drill and turned it down using some fine grit sand paper. So now the
new bushing fits inside of the flywheel, but it seems a little short

...and I really do not know what I will do - use the old bushing or try
the new modified one.
John Cyg.
______________________________________________

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Tue Feb 26 15:30:02 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 14:30:02 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours
In-Reply-To: <001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

 	Oliver:

	Could these be for European models, not just NA models? I
must agree with others that I do not remember seeing a black TR6.
	I do recall that the satin black Kamm back and the satin black
windscreen frame were unique to North America. Come to think of
it so were the Union Jack decals on the later models. So I suppose
it is perfectly reasonable to suppose that while all of the indicated
colors were factory colours, they may not have made it to North America.

	Crap. First PI, now all the cool colours. The Europeans got all
the good stuff, mumble, mumble. I feel like the white trash relatives
in the family tree that the continentals would rather not talk about.
Throw us a bone so we will go away and not scare the neighbors.
	Whimper.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 4:55 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] was Ebay Car; now TR6 Colors

i also have a question - red interiors?  is that for real?


> Thanks for the information. I do have one question...I
> did not think the TR6 came in black from the factory
> in the US?
>
> Your chart makes it look like it came in black in all
> years.
> >>
> http://www.trregistry.com/start/registry/html/painttrimcodes.php

From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com  Tue Feb 26 17:01:00 2008
From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 16:01:00 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] topaz
Message-ID: <159148.58790.qm@web51301.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

i think that inca replaced mimosa late in the 76's
run. russet replaced maple. i've seen many mimosa and
maple '76 TR6s. my assumption is that topaz and the
other "1975" colors such as delft and BRG continued
well into the 1976 model year cars. not sure if tahiti
blue replaced french blue or delft or if it was an
"extra" color.

check out my handiwork on the imcdb:

http://www.imcdb.org/vehicle_3981-Triumph-TR6-1976.html?PHPSESSID=525a3ec3e56f6543c822d483b94b1b8c

it would be interesting to see at which commission
number these colors were introduced/replaced...

ryan
'71 imperial blue, code 96 (AKA sapphire from '72-'74)



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From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 26 18:06:26 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:06:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Brake Assembly
Message-ID: <000001c878dc$fc921730$210110ac@bobspc>

Thanks for all the input on the assembly of the rear brakes. Lots of good
suggestions along with the Buckeye Triumph article made it a very easy job.
I just updated my site with some pictures
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/BrakeUpgrade2.htm) The new wheel cylinders
are from Kai Radicki and is the larger Sunbeam/Morgan bore. All my other
brake parts came from Ted Schumacher including the rebuilt calipers.

Thanks again

Bob

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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Checked by AVG. 
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8:45 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Tue Feb 26 18:59:45 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 20:59:45 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Axle Lube
Message-ID: <000101c878e4$6f198840$210110ac@bobspc>

Before I put the rear axles back in the car, what is the best lube/grease to
use on the sliding splines? There's something in there now but it's so old
and gummy, I can't tell what it is.........and Haynes doesnt even mention
anything.

Thanks

Bob (with lots of questions as he starts putting stuff back ON his car!)

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org


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Checked by AVG.
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8:45 PM

From trglory at comcast.net  Tue Feb 26 20:14:07 2008
From: trglory at comcast.net (Joe Laurito)
Date: Tue, 26 Feb 2008 22:14:07 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Axle Lube
In-Reply-To: <000101c878e4$6f198840$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000101c878e4$6f198840$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <009e01c878ee$d1075f50$73161df0$@net>

Bob;

I just used good old white lithium.

Joe

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+trglory=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Tuesday, February 26, 2008 9:00 PM
To: 'list Triumph'; 'Six Pack'
Subject: [6pack] Axle Lube

Before I put the rear axles back in the car, what is the best lube/grease to
use on the sliding splines? There's something in there now but it's so old
and gummy, I can't tell what it is.........and Haynes doesnt even mention
anything.

Thanks

Bob

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG Free Edition.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1298 - Release Date: 2/25/2008
8:45 PM

From glccrc at ptd.net  Wed Feb 27 04:33:18 2008
From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 06:33:18 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <120411198078217934@pm10.mailnet.ptd.net>

Was emailing with two industry peers, one in NZ and one in Australia, and
the subject of their wines came up. We manage stress with their reds. I
assumed the govt underwrote their wine industry- since the quality/price
value is so great. They both said no, just efficient. 

But most of all it was as you lament-
You should taste the wine we keep for ourselves- far better than what we
ship you Yanks!

glc

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of
Navarrette, Vance

The Europeans got all
the good stuff, mumble, mumble. I feel like the white trash relatives
in the family tree that the continentals would rather not talk about.
Throw us a bone so we will go away and not scare the neighbors.
	Whimper.

	Vance

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 27 06:24:04 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 08:24:04 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Accelerator Bearing Kit
Message-ID: <001201c87944$07c9ecb0$210110ac@bobspc>

No financial interest here......just trying to help out a TR guy who has
responded to a need & is now producing a great kit. Back in January I
replaced my accelerator bearing with the original nylon ones and installed
the driver's side backwards. When I asked the Mail List for help a bunch of
you responded with the bronze bearing suggestion which I ordered. However,
the bronze bearings and locking collar need to be reamed out for proper fit
and the bearing is too long on the passenger side to allow use of the washer
and cotter pin. That was a red flag safety issue for me. I emailed Art Lipp
and he made a Delrin bearing kit for me. You can see it here
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/AcceleratorShaft.htm) and the final kit
components is at the very bottom of the page.

Just an FYI with NFI!

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date: 2/26/2008
7:50 PM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Feb 27 08:27:04 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 07:27:04 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours
In-Reply-To: <120411198078217934@pm10.mailnet.ptd.net>
References: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<120411198078217934@pm10.mailnet.ptd.net>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC035222B8@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	I KNEW IT!!!!!!

	I am talking my marbles and going home now....

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of glc / crc
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 3:33 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Colours

Was emailing with two industry peers, one in NZ and one in Australia,
and
the subject of their wines came up. We manage stress with their reds. I
assumed the govt underwrote their wine industry- since the quality/price
value is so great. They both said no, just efficient.

But most of all it was as you lament-
You should taste the wine we keep for ourselves- far better than what we
ship you Yanks!

glc

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Wed Feb 27 08:34:40 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 07:34:40 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC035222B8@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com><120411198078217934@pm10.mailnet.ptd.net>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC035222B8@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC035222DB@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	See! SEE what happens when I get upset!?!?!

	I meant TAKING, not TALKING.

	My doctor told me I needed a hobby to lower my stress level, and
look what it gets me....

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Navarrette, Vance
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 7:27 AM
To: glc / crc; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Colours

	I KNEW IT!!!!!!

	I am talking my marbles and going home now....

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of glc / crc
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 3:33 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Colours

Was emailing with two industry peers, one in NZ and one in Australia,
and
the subject of their wines came up. We manage stress with their reds. I
assumed the govt underwrote their wine industry- since the quality/price
value is so great. They both said no, just efficient.

But most of all it was as you lament-
You should taste the wine we keep for ourselves- far better than what we
ship you Yanks!

glc

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Wed Feb 27 09:29:01 2008
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 08:29:01 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

I got my flywheel back from being resurfaced and noticed the number 70
(or 7C) stamped near the outer edge.  Does anyone know what this means?
Just curious.

Mike
Corvallis, OR
1969 TR6

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 27 10:05:34 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 12:05:34 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <000e01c87962$f9676d40$210110ac@bobspc>

My flywheel is out for the same work right now. I'll have it back tomorrow
so I'll look for any markings. Mine already had 22 stamped on it
(http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineRemoval.htm) but that wasn't the
weight!


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 11:29 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking

I got my flywheel back from being resurfaced and noticed the number 70 (or
7C) stamped near the outer edge.  Does anyone know what this means?
Just curious.

Mike
Corvallis, OR
1969 TR6
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org

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Checked by AVG. 
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7:50 PM

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 27 12:36:11 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 14:36:11 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Engine Stand Help
Message-ID: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>

I just assembled my cheapo Harbour Freight, hope I only have to use it one
time, engine stand. I'm sure it's obvious to everyone but me
but..........how do you bolt the engine to the stand? I know you use bolts
and nuts but where on the engine is the attachment point? A picture is worth
a thousand words so http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm  Do my
arrows show the attachment points?

This is one of those things I want to get right as I have visions on it
falling on the floor....oops.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date: 2/26/2008
7:50 PM

From stan.foster at hp.com  Wed Feb 27 12:48:09 2008
From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 19:48:09 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Engine Stand Help
In-Reply-To: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071C1C687EF3@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net>

Bob, when I did this I just spread the attachment arms of the engine stand out
at roughly 10, 2, 4 and 8 o clock and then bolted them each to the nearest
hole on the rear plate.

Note that you will not be able to remove the crank if the engine is mounted in
this way. One elegant solution I saw was to drill some extra holes in the
engine mount plate and bolt the plate directly to the side of the block where
the engine mounts are attached.

Stan

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob
Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 2:36 PM
To: 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Engine Stand Help

I just assembled my cheapo Harbour Freight, hope I only have to use it one
time, engine stand. I'm sure it's obvious to everyone but me but..........how
do you bolt the engine to the stand? I know you use bolts and nuts but where
on the engine is the attachment point? A picture is worth a thousand words so
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm  Do my arrows show the
attachment points?

This is one of those things I want to get right as I have visions on it
falling on the floor....oops.

Thanks

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From tr6taylor at webtv.net  Wed Feb 27 14:17:13 2008
From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 13:17:13 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Engine Stand Help
In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message
	of Wed, 27 Feb 2008 14:36:11 -0500
Message-ID: <11074-47C5D359-32@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net>

Bob---You'll ned to have the engine back plate in place to mount the
arms of the stand. "Better" stands may have more radii choices, but mine
is like yours. As Stan noted, you won't be able to remove the crankshaft
when the backplate is in place. TRF Dave suggests having an extra
backplate with the bottom cut away.   But once the block is stripped of
its other pieces, one can lay it on its top to remove the crank, sans
the backplate.

Dick

 From:

75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson

I just assembled my cheapo Harbour Freight, hope I only have to use it
one time, engine stand. I'm sure it's obvious to everyone but me

but..........how do you bolt the engine to the stand? I know you use
bolts and nuts but where on the engine is the attachment point? A
picture is worth a thousand words so
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm Do my arrows show the
attachment points?
This is one of those things I want to get right as I have visions on it
falling on the floor....oops.
Thanks
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG.
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date:
2/26/2008
7:50 PM ______________________________________

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Wed Feb 27 14:21:46 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:21:46 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lateral Engine Stand Mount
Message-ID: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>

One of the List guys found this picture on someone's web site (he can't
remember who) and it uses the engine mount bolt holes for the engine stand.
Very cool idea but does anyone see a down side to this? The picture is at
the bottom of http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm
 
Thanks
 
Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


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Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1300 - Release Date: 2/26/2008
7:50 PM

From lajomor05 at msn.com  Wed Feb 27 15:29:16 2008
From: lajomor05 at msn.com (JODY A MORRISON)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 15:29:16 -0700
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel
Message-ID: <BAY132-DAV981AC37908FB97B15B387B81A0@phx.gbl>

Members of the List...
I submit the following question and seek advice and recommendations....

The rear bulkhead panel (in this case, a TR250)....it is cardboard covered
with upholstery material of choice.
The question...

Is it feasible/practical/ rational to cut and fit a sheet metal panel in that
area (with the cardboard/upholstery panel on the cockpit side of it) to
function as a tub-stiffener/odor barrier/flaming gasoline barrier between the
gas tank and the interior of the car???

My apologies if this is an already beaten-to-death subject.....but I can't
recall if it was or not....

Thanking all in advance...
Larry M
TR250 about at that point....

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Feb 27 15:41:06 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:41:06 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel
In-Reply-To: <BAY132-DAV981AC37908FB97B15B387B81A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY132-DAV981AC37908FB97B15B387B81A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802271737180.30831@isis.mit.edu>

Hi,

I have made metal panels for that area, but not attached upholstery to 
them. Of course my reasons differ in that I play with race cars and my 
rules book tells me that I have to use metal there.

But there are interior kits out there that use thin marine plywood and 
that would be a very good choice. I think I just saw these kits in the 
Moss catalog.

The problem with using metal in that are is that the body twists 
underloads and I've had to resort to steel rivets to hold the panel in 
because the aluminum rivs kepts shearing off... you  know, chuck the car 
into a corner and then a boing noise coming from behind you. Not exactly 
confidence inspiring.

regards,
rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Feb 27 15:47:24 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:47:24 EST
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel in metal
Message-ID: <cf9.2b591b7c.34f7427c@cs.com>

Larry,

Yes. In some sanctioning bodies it is required.

I made several sets of Aluminum Panels for the TR4 Interior in a precoated 
material, for myself and five other vintage racers.

The precoated painted panels are common in the stock car business and has a 
layer of protective film. It also comes in several basic colors. I also had the 
edges 'beaded' for a more finished look. My interior panels are white, but I 
also did a rear deck. The stock red is a very close match to the Triumph Red.

http://www.performancebodies.com/

Easy to do but time consuming, if you do it at home.

BTW, Do you need a roll bar?

Joe A



> The rear bulkhead panel (in this case, a TR250)....it is cardboard covered
> with upholstery material of choice.
> The question...
> 
> Is it feasible/practical/ rational to cut and fit a sheet metal panel in that
> area (with the cardboard/upholstery panel on the cockpit side of it) to
> function as a tub-stiffener/odor barrier/flaming gasoline barrier between the
> gas tank and the interior of the car???
> 
> My apologies if this is an already beaten-to-death subject.....but I can't
> recall if it was or not....
> 
> Thanking all in advance...
> Larry M
> 

   </HTML>

From jimjcmo at yahoo.com  Wed Feb 27 15:53:30 2008
From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 14:53:30 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel
In-Reply-To: <BAY132-DAV981AC37908FB97B15B387B81A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <233784.83781.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com>

Jody:
   
  I did this, more or less. I made a panel out of aluminum sheet and placed it behind the stock panel. I drilled oversize holes in the metal to match the stock panel so the screws would go through it to the fixing points. I didn't do this to reduce flexing, but only as a barrier in case of a gas spill in a wreck. I'm not sure it would do that much to improve rigidity, unless you plan to race the car. My guess in that case is that one might be better off to weld in angular bracing.
   
  Jim

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Feb 27 15:54:35 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 17:54:35 EST
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel
Message-ID: <d46.225845d5.34f7442b@cs.com>

In a message dated 2/27/2008 4:41:28 PM Central Standard Time, 
lang at isis.mit.edu writes:


> The problem with using metal in that are is that the body twists 
> underloads and I've had to resort to steel rivets to hold the panel in 
> because the aluminum rivs kepts shearing off... you  know, chuck the car 
> into a corner and then a boing noise coming from behind you. Not exactly 
> confidence inspiring.
> 

Wow Bobsta!   I have never heard any 'boings' in my 3/16" aluminum rivets. 
Maybe it is because of my roll cage design. I have two legs planted on each of 
my wheel well intrusions.

BTW, I had a TR250 follow me home. It has a roll bar that could be recycled 
into another TR4/TR250/TR6....if I can ever plow through the snow long enough 
to dismantle it.

Buried in Iowa   </HTML>

From bratt at sasktel.net  Wed Feb 27 15:57:12 2008
From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 16:57:12 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Engine Stand Help
References: <000001c87978$04019c70$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <003501c87994$17457dd0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>

Bob:

I have been building a Seven replica (for a few years), and another Seven 
builder has a good photo of his Rover V8 hung on his engine stand.

 http://duncan-hurst.se7ens.net/photo.htm

Those outside bolt holes are the handiest to use.   The important part is 
that you mount it so you can rotate the crank and attached internals, using 
spacers if necessary so the crank is free to rotate.

Ed Bratt
Regina, Saskatchewan
1976 TR6

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 1:36 PM
Subject: [6pack] Engine Stand Help

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Wed Feb 27 16:02:25 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:02:25 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel
In-Reply-To: <d46.225845d5.34f7442b@cs.com>
References: <d46.225845d5.34f7442b@cs.com>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802271757180.30831@isis.mit.edu>

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 N197TR4 at cs.com wrote:

> In a message dated 2/27/2008 4:41:28 PM Central Standard Time,
> lang at isis.mit.edu writes:
>
>
>> The problem with using metal in that are is that the body twists
>> underloads and I've had to resort to steel rivets to hold the panel in
>> because the aluminum rivs kepts shearing off... you  know, chuck the car
>> into a corner and then a boing noise coming from behind you. Not exactly
>> confidence inspiring.
>>
>
> Wow Bobsta!   I have never heard any 'boings' in my 3/16" aluminum rivets.
> Maybe it is because of my roll cage design. I have two legs planted on each of
> my wheel well intrusions.

Well, I'm cheap. I used 1/8" aluminum rivets. I think the rationalle was 
that I didn't want to add too much weight for the 20 ir so rivets. :-) I 
think the shear rating for those pop-rivets is something like 100 pounds. 
Steel fixed it. Then I put in a CAGE. No more flex! I think I could lift 
the car via the cage. It is STOUT.

For my rear panel, I used .040 aluminum sheet which is pretty rigid. The 
piece would have fit a lot nicer had it been pre bent to match the curve 
of the rear- area. I'd def suggest something thinner like .032 or perhaps 
a bit thinner and I'd def. recommend having the piece "curved" so you can 
fit it without hacking up the paint.

> BTW, I had a TR250 follow me home. It has a roll bar that could be recycled
> into another TR4/TR250/TR6....if I can ever plow through the snow long enough
> to dismantle it.

VINTAGE RACER... VINTAGE RACER.

:-)

> Buried in Iowa   </HTML>

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Wed Feb 27 16:18:54 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:18:54 EST
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel
Message-ID: <d1b.1df100e8.34f749de@cs.com>

> > BTW, I had a TR250 follow me home. It has a roll bar that could be 
> recycled
> > into another TR4/TR250/TR6....if I can ever plow through the snow long 
> enough
> > to dismantle it.
> 
> VINTAGE RACER... VINTAGE RACER.
> 
> :-)
> 
> Bite your tongue, Bobsta!   The last engine that was in this car was a 
> Jaguar V-12.

It is badly hacked up.  

But it has four wheel disc brakes with ventilated calipers.

It also has a Frank Land Quick Change Rear End for IRS. I know nothing about 
these rear ends, but hope to learn something, even thought I dont plan to use 
it.

It has Kidney Bean Alloy Wheels. The rear ones are really wide.

Outside of that, some suspension pieces and a trunk lid are good.

maybe some more.

Joe A



   </HTML>

From grant at bowtie6.com  Wed Feb 27 16:47:17 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 18:47:17 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel
In-Reply-To: <BAY132-DAV981AC37908FB97B15B387B81A0@phx.gbl>
References: <BAY132-DAV981AC37908FB97B15B387B81A0@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001201c8799b$172bfe30$4583fa90$@com>

ON my TR6, I did exactly what you are talking about.  Mine is made from an
aluminium sheet.  The edges were offset so they would tuck inside the inner
top lip of the body.  Two holes were drilled on the uprights on the back and
threaded.  Then two bolts hold the panel in place.  Since the top side was
recessed inside the top of the body, there was still room to properly fit
the carboard based original panel.  So, essentially I have two panels:  the
aluminium and the cardboard panel with the nice vinyl on it.

Since the aluminium panel would have a tendency to rattle, I covered it up
with Dynamat Extreme, and this has worked flawlessly.  The benefit is a
little stronger backing behind the cardboard backing and it is a little
stronger.  I am very pleased with the result.


Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of JODY A
MORRISON
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 17:29
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Rear bulkhead panel

Members of the List...
I submit the following question and seek advice and recommendations....

The rear bulkhead panel (in this case, a TR250)....it is cardboard covered
with upholstery material of choice.
The question...

Is it feasible/practical/ rational to cut and fit a sheet metal panel in
that
area (with the cardboard/upholstery panel on the cockpit side of it) to
function as a tub-stiffener/odor barrier/flaming gasoline barrier between
the
gas tank and the interior of the car???

My apologies if this is an already beaten-to-death subject.....but I can't
recall if it was or not....

Thanking all in advance...
Larry M
TR250 about at that point....

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Wed Feb 27 17:29:00 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 00:29:00 -0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours (Clarifications)
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com><001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <001f01c879a0$ea392140$0201a8c0@Bevan>

> Could these be for European models, not just NA models? I
> must agree with others that I do not remember seeing a black TR6.

Rare birds indeed but Black was always available from Standard-Triumph to special order only and it 
rarely appeared in the colour charts. Interior trim was to customer choice from standard colur 
range. The minimum paint run was for 25 cars (any model) and these were always painted on Friday 
afternoons prior to the paint lines being cleaned out every weekend.

> I do recall that the satin black Kamm back and the satin black
> windscreen frame were unique to North America.

Not true. Satin black rear ends and screen frames were 'peculiar' to all TR models all markets. CKD 
and SKD variants for local build in the 12 (or was it 15?) overseas assembly plants may have been 
variable.

>Come to think of
> it so were the Union Jack decals on the later models.

Correct

So I suppose
> it is perfectly reasonable to suppose that while all of the indicated
> colors were factory colours, they may not have made it to North America.

Not true. North America had no specially reserved colours or restricted colours. You guys could 
order what everyone else ordered

> Crap. First PI, now all the cool colours. The Europeans got all
> the good stuff, mumble, mumble. I feel like the white trash relatives
> in the family tree that the continentals would rather not talk about.
> Throw us a bone so we will go away and not scare the neighbors.
> Whimper.

Vance, you surely don't expect a comment? :):):)

Jonmac 

From grant at bowtie6.com  Wed Feb 27 17:40:42 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 19:40:42 -0500
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours (Clarifications)
In-Reply-To: <001f01c879a0$ea392140$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com><001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<001f01c879a0$ea392140$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <001301c879a2$8d351bf0$a79f53d0$@com>

John:

Were any TR6's delivered to the UK market, Euro market or USA market in BODY
colour ONLY from the factory?  

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John
Macartney
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 19:29
To: Navarrette, Vance; Oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Colours (Clarifications)

> Could these be for European models, not just NA models? I
> must agree with others that I do not remember seeing a black TR6.

Rare birds indeed but Black was always available from Standard-Triumph to
special order only and it 
rarely appeared in the colour charts. Interior trim was to customer choice
from standard colur 
range. The minimum paint run was for 25 cars (any model) and these were
always painted on Friday 
afternoons prior to the paint lines being cleaned out every weekend.

> I do recall that the satin black Kamm back and the satin black
> windscreen frame were unique to North America.

Not true. Satin black rear ends and screen frames were 'peculiar' to all TR
models all markets. CKD 
and SKD variants for local build in the 12 (or was it 15?) overseas assembly
plants may have been 
variable.

>Come to think of
> it so were the Union Jack decals on the later models.

Correct

So I suppose
> it is perfectly reasonable to suppose that while all of the indicated
> colors were factory colours, they may not have made it to North America.

Not true. North America had no specially reserved colours or restricted
colours. You guys could 
order what everyone else ordered

> Crap. First PI, now all the cool colours. The Europeans got all
> the good stuff, mumble, mumble. I feel like the white trash relatives
> in the family tree that the continentals would rather not talk about.
> Throw us a bone so we will go away and not scare the neighbors.
> Whimper.

Vance, you surely don't expect a comment? :):):)

Jonmac 

From rgperry at earthlink.net  Wed Feb 27 19:33:23 2008
From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry)
Date: Wed, 27 Feb 2008 20:33:23 -0600 (GMT-06:00)
Subject: [6pack] Engine Stand Help
Message-ID: <19426374.1204166003542.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net>

Bob,

Ed Bratt brought up a good point about using spacers between the stand mount and the engine block.  I use 3/8" galvanized pipe nipples over the bolt and a flat washer at each end. Greg Perry

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb 28 06:28:06 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 13:28:06 -0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 colours
Message-ID: <011101c87a0d$c0d558b0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Joe Grant wrote:
> Were any TR6's delivered to the UK market, Euro market or USA market in BODY
> colour ONLY from the factory?

You mean without the black tail and screen surround? Very probably - but these mods would have been
undertaken after the car came off production and would have been done in the Coventry Service
Department that was about 4 miles from the factory complex. As such work was a *post-production*
modification, no amendment would have been made to the vehicle build record to distinguish the
change. All that said, it's highly likely the mod could well have been done by the supplying
dealer - and many were. It wouild have cost less and not fouled up the production flow.

Cheers, Jonmac

PS As an aside on special colours, I've periodically wondered what happened to an E Type Jaguar,
a TR4A and a Sunbeam Alpine delivered to three ladies whose singing trio was well-known in the
US but not Europe. They  came over in 1965/6 ish and caused something of a stir and photo-op in
Coventry City Centre where their new cars were ceremoniously 'handed over.' Nothing too unusual in
that - except all three cars had been special-order painted in the same matching shade of sugar pink 
with
white leather seats and appropriate pink piping. They then vanished together on a tour of Europe and 
we
later heard the E Type was stolen in Italy (and never recovered, most likely the Mafia who usually 
stole
every E Type it could lay its hands on), the TR was written-off somewhere else and the Alpine fell 
off a
crane sling in a European port while being loaded on a ship home.
Could there be a moral in special-order colours? :) 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 28 06:51:35 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 07:51:35 -0600
Subject: [6pack] tachometer issue
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <000201c87a11$0de67960$800101df@garage.local>

69 tr6 - hasn't run in at least 10 years

tach "starts" at about 5k, and goes from there.  do i just pull the needle 
and relocate, do i have to open the gage and clean it, or do i have to send 
it out?

thanks! 

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 28 06:57:31 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 07:57:31 -0600
Subject: [6pack] part needed
References: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan>
	<003201c872c2$72a1d710$54f30818@rolofson>
Message-ID: <001901c87a11$ed50d730$800101df@garage.local>

i just know this is a common part everyone has lying around . . .

being the incredible optimist, i'm looking for a passenger side floorpan for 
a tr4, tr4a, tr250, or tr6.  all the same part. 

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 28 08:23:55 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 07:23:55 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542ED1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Mike:

	Usually when something gets turned down (A crank in particular)
or is larger than standard (e.g. pistons) they get stamped with
something indicating the new size.
	A *guess* would be that they had to remove 0.007" from the face
to get it smooth. My SWAG would be that the value is in ten thousandths
of an inch... Or not.

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:29 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking

I got my flywheel back from being resurfaced and noticed the number 70
(or 7C) stamped near the outer edge.  Does anyone know what this means?
Just curious.

Mike
Corvallis, OR
1969 TR6

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Thu Feb 28 08:41:33 2008
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 07:41:33 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542ED1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542ED1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF284@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

Vance,

The machine shop that I used didn't stamp it.  They were just as curious
as me.  Perhaps it was stamped in years past when another machine shop
resurfaced it.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 7:24 AM
To: Corbitt, Michael; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Flywheel Marking


	Mike:

	Usually when something gets turned down (A crank in particular)
or is larger than standard (e.g. pistons) they get stamped with
something indicating the new size.
	A *guess* would be that they had to remove 0.007" from the face
to get it smooth. My SWAG would be that the value is in ten thousandths
of an inch... Or not.

	Vance


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 8:29 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking

I got my flywheel back from being resurfaced and noticed the number 70
(or 7C) stamped near the outer edge.  Does anyone know what this means?
Just curious.

Mike
Corvallis, OR
1969 TR6

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 28 09:18:34 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 08:18:34 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Lateral Engine Stand Mount
In-Reply-To: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>
References: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542FF2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Bob:

	Just be advised of the need to get the mount as close as
possible to the center of gravity. The first time you try to turn the
motor over in the engine stand to get at the other side, you will 300+
lbs looking for home in a big hurry. Can throw you to the floor (or
worse) if you are not prepared.
	The scheme shown will be very stout, I would advise NOT putting
the flywheel on in an attempt to keep the whole thing balanced.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 1:22 PM
To: 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Lateral Engine Stand Mount

One of the List guys found this picture on someone's web site (he can't
remember who) and it uses the engine mount bolt holes for the engine
stand.
Very cool idea but does anyone see a down side to this? The picture is
at
the bottom of http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm

Thanks

Bob Danielson

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb 28 09:25:06 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 16:25:06 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542ED1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF284@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <015801c87a26$7b061040$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Mike Corbitt wrote:
> Perhaps it was stamped in years past when another machine shop
> resurfaced it.

Or maybe the numbers were put there by the Standard-Triumph machine shop to inform any casual (and 
later) onlooker how many operations it had had to undertake to get the damned thing machined to the 
correct engineering tolerances? :)

Jonmac 

From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu  Thu Feb 28 09:34:09 2008
From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 08:34:09 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
In-Reply-To: <015801c87a26$7b061040$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542ED1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF284@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
	<015801c87a26$7b061040$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF288@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>

John,

Perhaps it's similar to the number of attempts you had to make to get
your book across the pond to me?  Do you think it's a British thing?
When you come through Oregon, I may have to buy you lunch to make up for
how much you spent to get me your book.

Mike

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 8:25 AM
To: Corbitt, Michael; Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] Flywheel Marking

Mike Corbitt wrote:
> Perhaps it was stamped in years past when another machine shop
> resurfaced it.

Or maybe the numbers were put there by the Standard-Triumph machine shop
to inform any casual (and
later) onlooker how many operations it had had to undertake to get the
damned thing machined to the correct engineering tolerances? :)

Jonmac

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 28 10:09:44 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:09:44 -0800
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours (Clarifications)
In-Reply-To: <001f01c879a0$ea392140$0201a8c0@Bevan>
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com><001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<001f01c879a0$ea392140$0201a8c0@Bevan>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC035430D5@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Jonmac:

	Thanks for the clarification on all of this, you are the real
expert. I am not worthy, I am not worthy...

	Thinking back a bit, I would swear that I read that the blacked
out frame and Kammback came from the American marketing arm for Triumph.
Do I have that wrong too? (mumble, mumble. Damn Alzheimer's. Now where
did I put my "Depends" diaper?)

	As for my pronounced TR6 inferiority complex, you could make me
feel *MUCH* better (and of course pave the way for good international
relations) if you sent me a 150HP PI setup. Then you wouldn't need to
listen to me pout. What do you think - good idea or what? Puh-leaaase?

	Your poor American cousin,

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: John Macartney [mailto:standardtriumph at btinternet.com]
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 4:29 PM
To: Navarrette, Vance; Oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Colours (Clarifications)

> Could these be for European models, not just NA models? I
> must agree with others that I do not remember seeing a black TR6.

Rare birds indeed but Black was always available from Standard-Triumph
to special order only and it
rarely appeared in the colour charts. Interior trim was to customer
choice from standard colur
range. The minimum paint run was for 25 cars (any model) and these were
always painted on Friday
afternoons prior to the paint lines being cleaned out every weekend.

> I do recall that the satin black Kamm back and the satin black
> windscreen frame were unique to North America.

Not true. Satin black rear ends and screen frames were 'peculiar' to all
TR models all markets. CKD
and SKD variants for local build in the 12 (or was it 15?) overseas
assembly plants may have been
variable.

> Crap. First PI, now all the cool colours. The Europeans got all
> the good stuff, mumble, mumble. I feel like the white trash relatives
> in the family tree that the continentals would rather not talk about.
> Throw us a bone so we will go away and not scare the neighbors.
> Whimper.

Vance, you surely don't expect a comment? :):):)

Jonmac

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 28 10:11:08 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:11:08 -0800
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF284@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542ED1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF284@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC035430DE@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Mike:

	Well, it was just a guess. I guess we all know where my
credibility stands.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: Corbitt, Michael [mailto:Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu]
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 7:42 AM
To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Flywheel Marking

Vance,

The machine shop that I used didn't stamp it.  They were just as curious
as me.  Perhaps it was stamped in years past when another machine shop
resurfaced it.

Mike

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 28 10:25:21 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:25:21 -0800
Subject: [6pack] tachometer issue
In-Reply-To: <000201c87a11$0de67960$800101df@garage.local>
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com>
	<000201c87a11$0de67960$800101df@garage.local>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC0354311C@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Oliver:

	Nothing ventured, nothing gained.

	I recommend trying your approach. You will need to remove the
needle stop at 0, then press the needle on the pivot so that it points
to the small mark BELOW the 0 stop (As I recall it is a small white dot)
on the dial face. Then twist the needle up past 0, and reinstall the 0
stop.
	Be very careful, as if the drag cup is rusty or frozen it can
destroy the tach the minute you start the car. So make sure everything
inside the tach is turning freely. If not, send it out for a rebuild or
get a used one from www.britisthautoworks.com

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On
Behalf Of Oliver
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 5:52 AM
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] tachometer issue

69 tr6 - hasn't run in at least 10 years

tach "starts" at about 5k, and goes from there.  do i just pull the
needle
and relocate, do i have to open the gage and clean it, or do i have to
send
it out?

thanks!
6pack at autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack

http://www.team.net/archive

You are subscribed as vance.navarrette at intel.com

From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 28 10:54:19 2008
From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 09:54:19 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] topaz
In-Reply-To: <000f01c878e7$5eda4340$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
Message-ID: <539352.56561.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

wow, nice chauvinistic, bigoted response there, ed.

ryan

--- Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:

> What really gets to me is the goofy names applied to
> some of the colors.
> 
> Any normal man knows there are just eight colors. 
> They are red, orange, 
> yellow, black, white, green, blue, and brown.  Red
> is like a fire engine, 
> orange like a common citrus fruit with a similar
> name, black is like coal, 
> white is like cotton balls, blue is like the sky,
> and green is like grass, 
> brown is like (well, you know what that has flys
> swarming it).
> 
> Any divergence from these male comprehensive eight
> basic colors indicate 
> someone is nearing abnormality reserved for
> "interior decorators" and others 
> wearing "chartreuse" velvet jackets and pointy toed
> "gamboge" boots, while 
> driving their Morris Minors "trimmed" with curtains.
>   Perhaps the Triumph 
> employment policies were a bit too futuristic in
> regard to hiring "social 
> minorities" and erred by putting them in charge of
> color naming.
> 
> Mimosa, topaz, inca, russet, delft and maple are
> "hues" or "shades" of one 
> or another of the aforementioned eight "real
> colors".   But do not ask me to 
> identify them.  I think I had one of those "colors"
> in a spot on my shirt 
> where some mustard mixed with some barbecue sauce
> from my burger, but it 
> beats me which "color" it actually looks like.
> 
> From another perspective, these "colors" could be
> called "non-colors" 
> because they are not incuded in the Wikipedia list
> of existing colors. 
> http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_colors
> 
> The list states that it is "incomplete" and that
> "sourced revisions" are 
> welcome.
> 
> I, fortunately, have a "red TR 6" with a "black"
> interior, and no black 
> "back".  Whenever someone asks what color my sports
> car is I can answer with 
> a single syllable word, "red".
> 
> There is a neat quiz helpful in learning basic olors
> at 
> http://www.manythings.org/fq/1/8996.html
> 
> Ed Bratt
> Regina, Saskatchewan
> 1976 RED TR6


      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

From dejabuzzed at yahoo.com  Thu Feb 28 11:12:06 2008
From: dejabuzzed at yahoo.com (Ryan Van Luchene)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:12:06 -0800 (PST)
Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 96
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3109.1204215896.1200.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <991747.62099.qm@web51302.mail.re2.yahoo.com>

I've seen a 1972 model year TR6 with special order
Black paint and Grey interior. It was up for auction
on eBay last year sometime. I think I have pictures of
it at home, including the original Commission Plate
which has the color codes stamped on it. Paint 11,
Trim 78.
Regarding the rare Grey interior, the only other times
I've seen it was on two separate 1972 model year
Emerald green cars. Both had factory hard tops as
well. Bill Piggott should get pictures of rare models
like these for the next revision of "Original
TR4/4A/5/250/6". 

Ryan

> Message: 2
> Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 00:29:00 -0000
> From: "John Macartney"
> <standardtriumph at btinternet.com>
> Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 Colours (Clarifications)

> > Could these be for European models, not just NA
> models? I
> > must agree with others that I do not remember
> seeing a black TR6.
> 
> Rare birds indeed but Black was always available
> from Standard-Triumph to special order only and it 
> rarely appeared in the colour charts. Interior trim
> was to customer choice from standard colur 
> range. The minimum paint run was for 25 cars (any
> model) and these were always painted on Friday 
> afternoons prior to the paint lines being cleaned
> out every weekend.



      ____________________________________________________________________________________
Looking for last minute shopping deals?  
Find them fast with Yahoo! Search.  http://tools.search.yahoo.com/newsearch/category.php?category=shopping

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Thu Feb 28 11:12:06 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 13:12:06 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Lateral Engine Stand Mount
In-Reply-To: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542FF2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
References: <003501c87986$c3d47b40$210110ac@bobspc>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542FF2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <000601c87a35$6f812890$210110ac@bobspc>

I'm sticking with the end mount. All I need to do is replace the oil pan
gasket, timing cover gasket and, maybe the front seal. 


Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


-----Original Message-----
From: Navarrette, Vance [mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] 
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 11:19 AM
To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [6pack] Lateral Engine Stand Mount

	Bob:

	Just be advised of the need to get the mount as close as possible to
the center of gravity. The first time you try to turn the motor over in the
engine stand to get at the other side, you will 300+ lbs looking for home in
a big hurry. Can throw you to the floor (or
worse) if you are not prepared. 
	The scheme shown will be very stout, I would advise NOT putting the
flywheel on in an attempt to keep the whole thing balanced.

	Vance

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf
Of Bob Danielson
Sent: Wednesday, February 27, 2008 1:22 PM
To: 'list Triumph'; 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Lateral Engine Stand Mount

One of the List guys found this picture on someone's web site (he can't
remember who) and it uses the engine mount bolt holes for the engine stand.
Very cool idea but does anyone see a down side to this? The picture is at
the bottom of http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/EngineStand.htm
 
Thanks
 
Bob Danielson

No virus found in this incoming message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1302 - Release Date: 2/27/2008
4:34 PM
 

No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1302 - Release Date: 2/27/2008
4:34 PM

From vance.navarrette at intel.com  Thu Feb 28 11:10:55 2008
From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 10:10:55 -0800
Subject: [6pack] topaz
In-Reply-To: <539352.56561.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
References: <000f01c878e7$5eda4340$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk>
	<539352.56561.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com>
Message-ID: <C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03543240@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>

	Ed, all:

	My great disappointment is that pink was never offered. It would
be soooo trendy to have a car that matched my underwear.
	I am sure you all feel likewise.


	Vance

-----Original Message-----
--- Ed Bratt <bratt at sasktel.net> wrote:

> What really gets to me is the goofy names applied to
> some of the colors.
>
> Any normal man knows there are just eight colors.
> They are red, orange,
> yellow, black, white, green, blue, and brown.  Red
> is like a fire engine,
> orange like a common citrus fruit with a similar
> name, black is like coal,
> white is like cotton balls, blue is like the sky,
> and green is like grass,
> brown is like (well, you know what that has flys
> swarming it).

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb 28 11:40:05 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 18:40:05 -0000
Subject: [6pack] TR6 Colours (Clarifications)
References: <752497.29910.qm@web57210.mail.re3.yahoo.com><001b01c87878$3aebce00$800101df@garage.local>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03521DE2@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<001f01c879a0$ea392140$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC035430D5@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
Message-ID: <01b001c87a39$56a7c820$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Vance Navarette wrote:
>Thinking back a bit, I would swear that I read that the blacked
>out frame and Kammback came from the American marketing arm for Triumph.
>Do I have that wrong too?

Can't say aye or nay on that one, Vance. Given that the body design was from German Design House 
Karmann, there are many memories I have from within the company that the designer was alleged by his 
critics to have been a frustrated architect of the "Blockhaus" of the Atlantic Wall in France from 
WW2 - and please, German listers, don't get upset about that. It was all a long time ago :) However, 
ya gotta admit that those massive gun emplacements and TR6 backends do have certain 
similarities...........?

>As for my pronounced TR6 inferiority complex, you could make me
>feel *MUCH* better (and of course pave the way for good international
>relations) if you sent me a 150HP PI setup. Then you wouldn't need to
>listen to me pout. What do you think - good idea or what? Puh-leaaase?

Now you really are wanting to wear a Joseph Lucas hairshirt, aren't you? So you want to go down the 
road of overheating fuel pump in the boot, pressure relief valve warble, erratic timing of the 
metering unit off the dizzy drive, datum track/engine vacuum adjustments, sticking injector needles 
and fouled up plugs in traffic. Why not, it's all part of the injection experience - but you can do 
almost the same for less money and none of the hassle. Take the head to 9.5:1, a TriumphTune 6-3-1 
extractor manifold, TR5PI cam, Lucas D25 dizzy and two nicely set-up SU's. That'll give you TR6PI 
performance, a load of fun, none of the worries and virtually the same sound out of the back end:)

>Your poor American cousin,

Who is the poorer is debatable. My PI is giving me 22mpimpg on a good day and with gas prices here 
at around US$7.70 a US gallon, I'm seriously thinking of swapping the Triumph engine for a good six 
cylinder turbo-diesel!

Jonmac 

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Thu Feb 28 11:44:58 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 18:44:58 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Marking
References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF274@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu><C1B6100C383B23438DEC6B1A3D915EAC03542ED1@orsmsx411.amr.corp.intel.com>
	<2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF284@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
	<015801c87a26$7b061040$0201a8c0@Bevan>
	<2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF288@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu>
Message-ID: <01d701c87a3a$051eb710$0201a8c0@Bevan>

"Corbitt, Michael" wrote:

>Perhaps it's similar to the number of attempts you had to make to get
>your book across the pond to me?  Do you think it's a British thing?

Oh definitely! If it goes wrong the first time around (irt usually does) you can always have another 
crack at it!

>When you come through Oregon, I may have to buy you lunch to make up for
>how much you spent to get me your book.

Invite accepted if I can, Mike and thanks for it. Better still, why not join in the caravan and then 
you can forego the lunch and we could sample a variety of hoppy fluids one night?

John

From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com  Thu Feb 28 16:44:43 2008
From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 13:44:43 -1000
Subject: [6pack] 1960 TRIUMPH TR3 RESTORATION PROJECT
Message-ID: <001201c87a63$e533b020$6401a8c0@PamHome>

Found this locally on Craigs list and thought I would pass it on. NPI.

http://honolulu.craigslist.org/mau/pts/568583064.html

Regards,

Mark Bullard
'74 TR6
Kailua, HI

From trdoctor at aol.com  Thu Feb 28 19:35:39 2008
From: trdoctor at aol.com (TR DOCTOR)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 20:35:39 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Grey Interior
In-Reply-To: <mailman.3122.1204223996.1200.6pack@autox.team.net>
References: <mailman.3122.1204223996.1200.6pack@autox.team.net>
Message-ID: <b2a27c86.8cf2.45a3.af7c.eea089619193@aol.com>

I have one of those cars (if there were only two) that have the Emerald and Grey interiors with the factory hardtops.  It has been verified by Derek Grahm (sp) a few years back.  According to the searches that he did there were only 38 or so TR6's built with Grey interiors.

Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs (Tulsa, OK)
82030U0



In a message dated 02/28/08 12:40:56 Central Standard Time, 6pack-request at autox.team.net writes:
I've seen a 1972 model year TR6 with special order 
Black paint and Grey interior. It was up for auction 
on eBay last year sometime. I think I have pictures of 
it at home, including the original Commission Plate 
which has the color codes stamped on it. Paint 11, 
Trim 78. 
Regarding the rare Grey interior, the only other times 
I've seen it was on two separate 1972 model year 
Emerald green cars. Both had factory hard tops as 
well. Bill Piggott should get pictures of rare models 
like these for the next revision of "Original 
TR4/4A/5/250/6". 

Ryan 

From grant at bowtie6.com  Thu Feb 28 19:32:52 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 21:32:52 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Grey Interior
In-Reply-To: <b2a27c86.8cf2.45a3.af7c.eea089619193@aol.com>
References: <mailman.3122.1204223996.1200.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<b2a27c86.8cf2.45a3.af7c.eea089619193@aol.com>
Message-ID: <001301c87a7b$63287120$29795360$@com>

Got any pics?

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/


-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of TR
DOCTOR
Sent: Thursday, February 28, 2008 21:36
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Grey Interior

I have one of those cars (if there were only two) that have the Emerald and
Grey interiors with the factory hardtops.  It has been verified by Derek
Grahm (sp) a few years back.  According to the searches that he did there
were only 38 or so TR6's built with Grey interiors.

Sam Clark
Green Country Triumphs (Tulsa, OK)
82030U0

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Thu Feb 28 21:22:20 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Thu, 28 Feb 2008 22:22:20 -0600
Subject: [6pack] $4,100 collected so far
Message-ID: <001601c87a8a$afb55030$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/

thank you to all of you!   I think there's a Stag in JonMac's future . . .

From emanteno at comcast.net  Fri Feb 29 04:36:39 2008
From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 11:36:39 +0000
Subject: [6pack] [TR] $4,100 collected so far
Message-ID: <022920081136.6829.47C7EE4700012C5A00001AAD2200748184970A9D010507@comcast.net>

-------------- Original message -------------- 
From: "Oliver" <sumton at sbcglobal.net> 

> http://www.ranteer.com/misc2/ 
> 
> thank you to all of you! I think there's a Stag in JonMac's future . . . 

There is. It's already been acquired, and we all get our assignments for the restoration starting Sunday at our monthly ISOA meeting.
Irv Korey
74 TR6 CF22767U
Highland Park, IL

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb 29 05:46:27 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 07:46:27 EST
Subject: [6pack] $4,100 collected so far --- now ISOA At Work
Message-ID: <c46.2c77760e.34f958a3@cs.com>

Irv,

The ISOA  involvement really makes the project secure and justifies the 
pledges for the Stag. Never was there a more enthusiastic, talented, and humorous, 
group. (It wouldnt suprise me if the ISOA's great rock group, The Spinal 
Tappets, came up with a Stag/JonMac Tune)

Joe A



> There is. It's already been acquired, and we all get our assignments for 
> the restoration starting Sunday at our monthly ISOA meeting.
> Irv Korey
> 74 TR6 CF22767U
> Highland Park, IL
> 

   </HTML>

From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org  Fri Feb 29 07:29:51 2008
From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 09:29:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Boyd Coddington
Message-ID: <001b01c87adf$8d54cde0$210110ac@bobspc>

He wasn't a Triumph guy but he sure built some cool looking Hot Rods and he
died Wednesday at age 63 http://tinyurl.com/25vsv6

Bob Danielson
1975 TR6 CF38503U
Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org 


No virus found in this outgoing message.
Checked by AVG. 
Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1303 - Release Date: 2/28/2008
12:14 PM

From wensley_Tr at comcast.net  Fri Feb 29 08:31:47 2008
From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:31:47 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Boyd Coddington
References: <001b01c87adf$8d54cde0$210110ac@bobspc>
Message-ID: <00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>

what kill him

----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:29 AM
Subject: [TR] Boyd Coddington


> He wasn't a Triumph guy but he sure built some cool looking Hot Rods and 
> he
> died Wednesday at age 63 http://tinyurl.com/25vsv6
>
> Bob Danielson
> 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org
>
>
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
> Checked by AVG.
> Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.21.1/1303 - Release Date: 2/28/2008
> 12:14 PM
>


--------------------------------------------------------------------------------


> _______________________________________________
>
> Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
> This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register
> http://www.vtr.org
>
>
> Triumphs at autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs
>
> You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net
>
> http://www.team.net/archive 

From lang at isis.mit.edu  Fri Feb 29 08:38:13 2008
From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:38:13 -0500 (EST)
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Boyd Coddington
In-Reply-To: <00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>
References: <001b01c87adf$8d54cde0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <Pine.LNX.4.62L.0802291036160.4946@isis.mit.edu>

On Fri, 29 Feb 2008, Craig wrote:

> what kill him

The article I read indicated that he had some sort of liver problem.

rml
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang              NER/SCCA                 |  This space for rent
Solo Chair 2008       TR6 40 F Prepared        |  Triumph!
Voice:781-438-2568    FAX: 617-258-9535        |  Cell: 339-927-4489
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

From forzion at maine.rr.com  Fri Feb 29 08:35:35 2008
From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 10:35:35 -0500
Subject: [6pack] [TR] Boyd Coddington
In-Reply-To: <00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>
References: <001b01c87adf$8d54cde0$210110ac@bobspc>
	<00ae01c87ae8$33409150$0200a8c0@Desktop>
Message-ID: <f04f9e9ea853.a853f04f9e9e@nyroc.rr.com>

According to Wikipedia:

"Coddington had been hospitalized in January, shortly after New Years' 
2008 following a fall at his home. He was discharged, but complained of 
continuing complications and was readmitted just a few days later to 
Presbyterian Intercommunity Hospital in suburban Whittier. After being 
readmitted, doctors performed surgery and Boyd was expected to make a 
complete recovery. Coddington died on February 27, 2008 his company has 
released a statement stating that Coddington was "a long-time diabetic" 
who "died from complications that were brought on from a recent 
surgery."

Dave Friedlander
'74-Six


----- Original Message -----
From: Craig <wensley_Tr at comcast.net>
Date: Friday, February 29, 2008 10:32 am
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Boyd Coddington
To: Bob Danielson <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>, 'list Triumph' 
<triumphs at autox.team.net>, 6pack at autox.team.net

> what kill him
> 
> ----- Original Message ----- 
> From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>
> To: "'list Triumph'" <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
> Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:29 AM
> Subject: [TR] Boyd Coddington
> 
> 
> > He wasn't a Triumph guy but he sure built some cool looking Hot 
> Rods and he died Wednesday at age 63 http://tinyurl.com/25vsv6
> >
> > Bob Danielson
> > 1975 TR6 CF38503U
> > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection
> > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org

From im_sloane at hotmail.com  Fri Feb 29 12:22:25 2008
From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:22:25 +0000
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer rebuilder?
Message-ID: <BLU118-W203B0B8FCFBC27408A858A8E140@phx.gbl>

There's so much great info shared on this board, but there's no way to save
everything. Could someone send the name of the best place to get a Speedometer
rebuilt?

It's for a friend with a 74 Spit, so if anybody has one in their used parts
box, let me know.

thanks,
Sloane :)
_________________________________________________________________
Need to know the score, the latest news, or you need your Hotmail.-get your
"fix".
http://www.msnmobilefix.com/Default.aspx

From grant at bowtie6.com  Fri Feb 29 16:43:51 2008
From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 18:43:51 -0500
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer rebuilder?
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W203B0B8FCFBC27408A858A8E140@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU118-W203B0B8FCFBC27408A858A8E140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <001f01c87b2c$f397d2d0$dac77870$@com>

Sloane,

I looked this up in a current issue of Classic Motorsports.  I've never used
them, but they specifically said they have a guarantee on any work done.
Their site is:   www.nisonger.com - they rebuild instruments and maybe they
can help you out.

Let us know what you find...

Joe
'72 TR6 - CC77169
http://www.bowtie6.com/

-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net
[mailto:6pack-bounces+grant=bowtie6.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im
sloane
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 14:22
To: 6pack at autox.team.net
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer rebuilder?

There's so much great info shared on this board, but there's no way to save
everything. Could someone send the name of the best place to get a
Speedometer
rebuilt?

It's for a friend with a 74 Spit, so if anybody has one in their used parts
box, let me know.

thanks,
Sloane :)

From rsh17 at msn.com  Fri Feb 29 16:45:31 2008
From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 17:45:31 -0600
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer rebuilder?
In-Reply-To: <BLU118-W203B0B8FCFBC27408A858A8E140@phx.gbl>
References: <BLU118-W203B0B8FCFBC27408A858A8E140@phx.gbl>
Message-ID: <BAY104-W1065516187DC377CA36364AA140@phx.gbl>

Here's some places I've used MOMA w/ good results, Pal Alto is top notch as is
Nissonger
Gauge
repair & restorations:

MO-MA
Instrument Repair - Margaret Lucas, 1321 Second St NW, Albuquerque, NM
505-766-6661 Instruments restored (all types), British especially

Nissonger
Instrument Sales & Service, 570 Mamaroneck Ave, Mamoroneck, NY  914-381-1952
Fax: 914-381-1953,  Speedometers, Tachs, Clocks

Palo
Alto Speedometer Repair Service, 718 Emerson, Palo Alto, CA 415-323-0243
Classic auto instrument repair

Scott Young, 332 Devon Dr, San Rafael, CA  415-472-5126 Show quality
instrument
restoration

Richard Seaton

RSH17 at msn.com

View My 1969 TR6 restoration @
(http://groups.msn.com/Richards69TR6Restoration)
 OR
http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92



_________________________________________________________________
Shed those extra pounds with MSN and The Biggest Loser!
http://biggestloser.msn.com/

From standardtriumph at btinternet.com  Fri Feb 29 17:04:50 2008
From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney)
Date: Sat, 1 Mar 2008 00:04:50 -0000
Subject: [6pack] Grey Interior
References: <mailman.3122.1204223996.1200.6pack@autox.team.net>
	<b2a27c86.8cf2.45a3.af7c.eea089619193@aol.com>
Message-ID: <000a01c87b2f$deb82ab0$0201a8c0@Bevan>

Sam Clark wrote:

>I have one of those cars (if there were only two) that have the Emerald and Grey interiors with the 
>factory hardtops.  It has been verified by Derek Grahm (sp) a few years back.  According to the 
>searches that he did there were only 38 or so TR6's built with Grey interiors.

Sam, with respect, I'd guess that figure is wildly underestimated. First, it depends which records 
Derek Graham interrogated. Second, I doubt anyone has ever been able to count the number of cars 
built by Standard-Triumph in the many differing combinations of colour and trim over the years. From 
the factory's perspective it would be a rather pointless exercise. Certainly they would want to know 
how many cars they made of each model and which markets they went to, but colour and trim variations 
would have been of little or no consequence. For the record, Grey ambla and bri-nylon was matched 
initially with Mallard Blue and later, Emerald on all cars - two seaters of all models, all saloons 
and estaste cars as well. Emerald and Grey was a pretty combination and my last 2000 had been 
Mallard and Grey as well.

Cheers, Jonmac 

From DLylis at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 18:00:29 2008
From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 20:00:29 EST
Subject: [6pack] Speedometer rebuilder?
Message-ID: <d1c.1cc13d77.34fa04ad@aol.com>

Joe,
I have used Nisonger a couple of times and they are good but $$$
 
David  Lylis
69 TR6 CC26160L
60 TR3A TS74461LO



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From sumton at sbcglobal.net  Fri Feb 29 18:15:08 2008
From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 19:15:08 -0600
Subject: [6pack] anyone recognize this mirror?
Message-ID: <000801c87b39$b299df00$800101df@garage.local>

http://www.ranteer.com/misc/

this showed up and i don't know what car its from

thanks!

From TR6UO at aol.com  Fri Feb 29 19:48:38 2008
From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 21:48:38 EST
Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
Message-ID: <c34.2963df16.34fa1e06@aol.com>

Listers,
 
I don't recall this subject ever being addressed here, but would appreciate  
any input. What brand and model GPS systems, if any, is anyone using? What  
features do you find indispensable and which are really overrated?
 
I'm researching the TomTom, Garmin Nuvi, and Magellan brands. So far I  would 
go with the
"Speaks Street Name", "Traffic" and a 4.0 or larger screen. What else??  
Other brands??
 
I guess the only thing that makes it a non-TR subject is the fact that most  
TRs have no 12V outlet in which to plug it-at least mine doesn't.
 
Thanks!
 
Steve



**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)

From N197TR4 at cs.com  Fri Feb 29 20:09:26 2008
From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 22:09:26 -0500
Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
Message-ID: <645FC865.0BB67AEB.00159EE9@cs.com>

i have a Magellan and love it!

more recently the FoT guys have been promoting the purchase of the 
GARMIN NUVI

I think you can get a socket from RADIO SHACK and install it.

Joe A

>Listers,
> 
>I don't recall this subject ever being addressed here, but would appreciate  
>any input. What brand and model GPS systems, if any, is anyone using? What  
>features do you find indispensable and which are really overrated?
> 
>I'm researching the TomTom, Garmin Nuvi, and Magellan brands. So far I  would 
>go with the
>"Speaks Street Name", "Traffic" and a 4.0 or larger screen. What else??  
>Other brands??
> 
>I guess the only thing that makes it a non-TR subject is the fact that most  
>TRs have no 12V outlet in which to plug it-at least mine doesn't.
> 
>Thanks!
> 
>Steve
>
>
>
>**************Ideas to please picky eaters. Watch video on AOL Living.      
>(http://living.aol.com/video/how-to-please-your-picky-eater/rachel-campos-duffy/
>2050827?NCID=aolcmp00300000002598)
>_______________________________________________
>
>Support Team.Net  http://www.team.net/donate.html
>
>6pack at autox.team.net
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From triumph at 2simpleusa.com  Fri Feb 29 20:19:24 2008
From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon)
Date: Fri, 29 Feb 2008 22:19:24 -0500
Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question
References: <c34.2963df16.34fa1e06@aol.com>
Message-ID: <017101c87b4b$0f1afe10$670fa8c0@D1TG6Y71>

For mobile GPS'ing, we use a TomTom One, 3rd edition (who was behind the 
marketing and product naming ... so many similar products!) and apart from 
not "speaking" street names, it has worked flawlessly, quickly and 
accurately.  The online updates are easy to install (plug in and go).  The 
accuracy seems good, and it picks up satellites better than my laptop based 
GPS ever did.  And you can have John Cleese advise you on the directions ... 
what more could you ask?

I terms of power: it takes a mini USB plug ... maybe a simple 12v connection 
to a mini-USB socket is all that is needed?  Could be hidden down on the 
kidney panels (Cyberguys seems to carry all that stuff).  Or a retrofit of a 
12v lighter/power socket might be a good idea.

**************************************
Tony Gordon
72 TR6
**************************************
----- Original Message ----- 
From: <TR6UO at aol.com>
To: <triumphs at autox.team.net>; <6pack at autox.team.net>
Sent: Friday, February 29, 2008 9:48 PM
Subject: [6pack] GPS - Non Triumph General Question


> Listers,
>
> I don't recall this subject ever being addressed here, but would 
> appreciate
> any input. What brand and model GPS systems, if any, is anyone using? What
> features do you find indispensable and which are really overrated?
>
> I'm researching the TomTom, Garmin Nuvi, and Magellan brands. So far I 
> would
> go with the
> "Speaks Street Name", "Traffic" and a 4.0 or larger screen. What else??
> Other brands??
>
> I guess the only thing that makes it a non-TR subject is the fact that 
> most
> TRs have no 12V outlet in which to plug it-at least mine doesn't.
>
> Thanks!
>
> Steve