From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Tue Apr 1 08:41:01 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 08:41:01 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Engine Build In-Reply-To: <000c01c89015$e36d1930$aa474b90$@com> Message-ID: <952128.19749.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Everyone, I'm in the planning stages of my engine build and have a few questions. first of all, here's what I intend to do so far: * Shave head to bring compression to 9:1, port and polish * Zero-deck the block (remove recesses in block and user earlier head gasket) * bore block for cam bearings * lighten and balance rotating parts * TR 5 camshaft * Goodparts 1.65:1 roller rockers * Megasquirt contolling multi-port injection (hope to get a set of PI plenums, else fab my own) and EDIS ignition system * Lighten flywheel * Alternator conversion * High-torque starter First question: This will be a street engine, does anyone see anything I should do differently from above? Second question: The engine I have came without a distributor (hence the EDIS) so is there anything special I need to do about the oil pump/distributor drive other than fabricate a plate for the distributor mounting hole? Thanks in advance, Raymond L. Hatfield ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com From triosan at gmail.com Tue Apr 1 08:53:01 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 08:53:01 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Engine Build In-Reply-To: <952128.19749.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <000c01c89015$e36d1930$aa474b90$@com> <952128.19749.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0804010853k366a9e96v926802ad7a7a257b@mail.gmail.com> Make sure you have the distributor pedestal. MAchine and/or press in a brass bushing at the bottom -- maintain the .005 or so clearance indicated in the m anuals between this bushing and the oil pump gear. I did not do this and ended up ruining the gear with the rubbing between the bottom of the pedestal and the gear. On Tue, Apr 1, 2008 at 8:41 AM, Raymond Hatfield wrote: > Hi Everyone, > > I'm in the planning stages of my engine build and have a few questions. > first > of all, here's what I intend to do so far: > > -- Chuck Arnold From alanatkinson at hotmail.com Tue Apr 1 08:53:59 2008 From: alanatkinson at hotmail.com (Alan Atkinson) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 11:53:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Engine Build In-Reply-To: <952128.19749.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <000c01c89015$e36d1930$aa474b90$@com> <952128.19749.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: You can go a bit higher on the compression. Fit an electric fan and use Pattons fan eliminator or similar - it'll make the edis install much easier, since you can turn a lip on his boss for the disk. But then you've probably already worked that out, right? Are you going to fit headers? They give you a bit more room to work with around the intake. If you build your own plenum, use something like a Mustang 4.6TB and one of the cable setups from Ratco to actuate. That way you can keep the stock pedal. The distributor you can blank off. Same for the mechanical fuel pump. How are you plumbing the return? > Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 08:41:01 -0700> From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com> To: 6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] Engine Build> > Hi Everyone,> > I'm in the planning stages of my engine build and have a few questions. first> of all, here's what I intend to do so far:> > * Shave head to bring compression to 9:1, port and polish> * Zero-deck the block (remove recesses in block and user earlier head gasket)> * bore block for cam bearings> * lighten and balance rotating parts> * TR 5 camshaft> * Goodparts 1.65:1 roller rockers> * Megasquirt contolling multi-port injection > (hope to get a set of PI plenums, else fab my own) and EDIS ignition system> * Lighten flywheel> * Alternator conversion> * High-torque starter> > First question: This will be a street engine, does anyone see anything I> should do differently from above?> > Second question: The engine I have came without a distributor (hence the EDIS)> so is there anything special I need to do about the oil pump/distributor drive> other than fabricate a plate for the distributor mounting hole?> > Thanks in advance,> Raymond L. Hatfield> > > > _____________________________________________________________________________ _______> You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. > http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com> _______________________________________________> > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html> > 6pack at autox.team.net> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack> > http://www.team.net/archive> > You are subscribed as alanatkinson at hotmail.com _________________________________________________________________ Use video conversation to talk face-to-face with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/connect_your_way.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_ Refresh_messenger_video_042008 From johncnorth at gmail.com Tue Apr 1 11:45:55 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 14:45:55 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Torquing rod bolts In-Reply-To: <18528-47F1D726-7195@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net> References: <18528-47F1D726-7195@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <49f668fe0804011145y6dc75f9ej4b043d3169d120d4@mail.gmail.com> To close this loop, I talked to the vendor who tested their supply and found them defective. Of course the vendor will make things right. At this point I think I'll take Dick's suggestion and look over the old ones - at least they kept things together before!!! John On Tue, Apr 1, 2008 at 2:33 AM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > John N.----Check the accuracy of the torque wrench by setting it at 45 > lb. and fit a socket to one of the wheel lug nuts. It should click well > before the nut further tightens. You could also "practice" on a nut and > bolt in a bench vice. > > Most of the time there's enough residual oil in the rod threads, so > leave the bolts clean and dry. Compare their length to one of the known > old bolts. > > Take a look at your old rod bolts. If they're not stretched (spin a nut > down to the root thread) re-use them. Also question the place that sold > you the new bolts, if the torque wrench checks out OK. > > Run a tap down the rod threads to cut out any metal pickup. They'll > probably be allright, as deformation or stretching generally occurs in > areas where the threads are not captive. (Unless a bolt bottoms out) > > Dick > > From: johncnorth at gmail.com(John North) > > > These are new bolts. I did oil the threads and the head. However > the old bolts torqued up just fine using this method... Not sure how > I'd clean the threads in the rods at this point... > > John > On Mon, Mar 31, 2008 at 8:30 PM, Michael Porter > wrote: > > John North wrote: > I have read that these bolts should be torqued in three > equal stages. Given the spec range of 38-46, I tried 20, 31 then 42. I > backed off > the nut between the three torques. I didn't have the guts to complete > the last one, because the bolt made at least two full turns after being > finger tight. When I removed the bolt, there is clear thinning in the > last 5 or so threads and the bolt has stretched .114. > I tried just torquing a bolt up to 40 and got about 1.5 full turns after > the bolt became finger tight before I ran out of courage again and > stopped. This one has stretched about .015, but did not torque up before > I gave up. > Does this sound right or should I suspect the bolts are not good? I am > real scared of shearing off a bolt in the rod... > Time for new bolts. If they've remained stretched after being > torqued, that means they've yielded. > The torques normally specified for a dry fit. If you lubricated > the hardware in any way, then they likely have been over-torqued. If > you fitted them dry, then there's the real possibility that they > stretched during previous running or a previous installation. > > > Cheers. > -- > Michael Porter > Roswell, NM > Never let anyone drive you crazy when you know it's within walking > distance.... From callen at molycop.ca Tue Apr 1 12:18:20 2008 From: callen at molycop.ca (Calvin Allen) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 12:18:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 02 sensor locations In-Reply-To: <001401c8912c$e4d40d70$210110ac@bobspc> References: <592605.21963.qm@web82601.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <001901c89126$4241c350$1100000a@molycop.ca> <001401c8912c$e4d40d70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <001f01c8942d$266ebd90$1100000a@molycop.ca> Hi Guys Photos will be coming once I finish a few other jobs around the house. I used the same injector plates as you Bob, however everything else was geared towards using the Megasquirt ECM. The fuel pump is mounted on the frame just like yours, The sensors are all GM style just like yours. I choose to use Megasquirt as an ecm based only on low cost and ecm functions. I like that I can make live changes to the Fuel table as I drive with a laptop and a simple save is all that is required burn the change to the ecm. The Megasquirt has many people working on upgrades as it is an open source code. The down side of the system is that I had to work out the fuel table from scratch. I followed the setup procedures and it came together fairly fast. Once the cars starts the rest of the tuning is straight forward. The cost for the conversion to TBI using Megarsquirt was cheaper then the ready made GM ecm and is well matched to the TR6 engine. I have one driving season on the setup and am just putting a higher compression engine into the car this last few weeks. The engine that was in the car was tired, the new one should fun to drive (9.0:1 Compression). In either event, photos on a website should follow in a few weeks to a month. Calvin -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 4:39 PM To: 'Calvin Allen' Subject: RE: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Calvin, Any pictures of your TBI conversion? I did it last winter using Rick Patton's kit. What did you use for adapters to mount the injectors? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Calvin Allen Sent: Friday, March 28, 2008 6:51 PM To: 'Triumph 6 Pack' Subject: Re: [6pack] 02 sensor locations Hi Kendall It is a very good time to get a photos to you as I have the motor out right now. I built a higher compression motor this winter and it is going in this weekend. I will get you some photos of the conversion parts including the o2 sensors. Calvin From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 1 14:13:37 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 14:13:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0804011145y6dc75f9ej4b043d3169d120d4@mail.gmail.com> References: <18528-47F1D726-7195@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net> <49f668fe0804011145y6dc75f9ej4b043d3169d120d4@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: John: Any chance the bolt maker was Chinese? Ford has been trying to qualify a Chinese bolt supplier to replace their US supplier, but I understand that they keep failing for quality issues. I recently avoided another Chinese goods issue on the TR6. When I went to buy tires for the 6 after completing the resto (it had the original red lines on the car) The tire dealer offered me a real deal on some Chinese tires. I said "No thanks, the Chinese are not yet in the game from a quality standpoint". One year later the same Chinese tires were all being recalled for catastrophic failures. Dodged a bullet on that one. I am wondering if you are another victim, along with the Heparin fatalities, Chinese tire owners, and many others. Giving the sale to the low bidder is not always a good idea. Curious, Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John North Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 11:46 AM To: Triumph 6 Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Torquing rod bolts To close this loop, I talked to the vendor who tested their supply and found them defective. Of course the vendor will make things right. At this point I think I'll take Dick's suggestion and look over the old ones - at least they kept things together before!!! John From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Apr 1 17:23:19 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 17:23:19 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Starting Problems Solved Message-ID: <753186.34137.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Listers, A week or so I threw myself on your mercy and asked for help getting my newly acquired 69 TR 6 started after it had been sitting for 17 years. Thanks to your many suggestions I finally got it running. I said I would let you know what the problem was when I got it going so here it is: It was one of everything!!! I rebuilt the carbs but the rear one still didn't work right and I had to re-do it. The older MSD Blaster coil I used to replace the POS coil originally on the car was also a POS so I replaced the second one with one that worked; the resistor plugs were replaced with NGK BP6ES plugs; the plug wires were toast, most wouldn't even carry electricity; the distributor was 180 degrees our of time (thanks Dave); the points I replaced earlier were nearly closed; the diaphragm on the brake booster was completely gone which drained manifold vacum and the fuel pump was bad. The oil pressure line looked like it had been chewed in half by mice and spewed oil when I finally got it going. The metal fuel line had rusted through in at least one place and the rubber line broke in half when I tried to hook a new line to it. The good news is that the car now runs; the oil pressure is about 70 PSI; and there were no knocks coming from the motor. Now that I know it will run I will change the oil and filter as I don't even want to guess what is in the sump. I sort of feel like Columbus discovering a whole new world of what could go wrong did go wrong. Hopefully the worst is now over though I see water weeping from a bunch of radiator hoses, etc. Mike Lunsford 1969 TR 6 with OD, 1970 TR 6 with OD, 1971 TR 6 awaiting restorat --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 1 17:45:24 2008 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig) Date: Tue, 1 Apr 2008 20:45:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] British car show in Louisville, Ky Message-ID: <00dc01c8945a$d6b6a280$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca> The featured marque of the 24th annual British Bash car show in Louisville, Ky is Austin Healey. Preregister by May 3rd and save.Check out the website photos and the online regisitration! www.britishbash.com See you in Louisville on June 6th & 7th. Thanks, British Sports Car Club of Louisville, Ky '08 Bash coordinator Craig Holmes cbhlouky at bellsouth.net From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Apr 2 07:16:02 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 07:16:02 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts In-Reply-To: <49f668fe0804011625i107fd449me9411969ddb0fdb2@mail.gmail.com> References: <18528-47F1D726-7195@storefull-3137.bay.webtv.net> <49f668fe0804011145y6dc75f9ej4b043d3169d120d4@mail.gmail.com> <49f668fe0804011625i107fd449me9411969ddb0fdb2@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: John: BPNW has a good track record. If the bolts were bad they will make good and find you some good replacements. I would also expect that they would also figure out if their supplier needed to be replaced. It's just a shame that there are so many suspect products out there. The good news is that you spotted the problem before buttoning up the motor. Having a rod bolt let loose in 500 miles would have been a whole lot more inconvenient. Vance -----Original Message----- From: John North [mailto:johncnorth at gmail.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 4:26 PM To: Navarrette, Vance Subject: Re: Supplier of bad bolts I bought from BPNW. They were County Brand, which is British, came in a branded package, but I don't know the manufacturer and I'm not sure that BPNW did either. I also bought County Brand tri-metal main bearings from BPNW that were made in Israel. The bolts were a new shipment they had just received, and I was the guinea pig... I have always had good products at a very good price from BPNW in the past, but I agree that sometimes price is not what it's about. I have bought a number of Chinese made products and all have been fine, but there are definitely some rough spots. Hopefully they will get it it right before we all die from low bidders disease. By the way, I do appreciate your consistent and faithful attention to 6-pack. I got my first LBC 30 years ago, a Spitfire and would not have dreamed of tackling the jobs I do now. It is so important for me that I have a group of knowledgeable people who share their time to the extent you do. Thank you. John North From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Apr 2 07:32:34 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 09:32:34 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts Message-ID: <20080402143234.20691.qmail@server306.com> Vance, Do you have any info. on ARP bolts that might be suitable for connecting rod use, or would it be OK to get some good quality Gr 10 star headed bolts? I can find ARP info for the mains and the cylinder head but not the con rods ... ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: Navarrette, Vance > Subject: Re: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts > Sent: Apr 02 '08 09:16 > > John: > > BPNW has a good track record. If the bolts were bad they will > make good and find you some good replacements. I would also expect that > they would also figure out if their supplier needed to be replaced. It's > just a shame that there are so many suspect products out there. The good > news is that you spotted the problem before buttoning up the motor. > Having a rod bolt let loose in 500 miles would have been a whole lot > more inconvenient. > > Vance > > -----Original Message----- > From: John North [mailto:johncnorth at gmail.com] > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 4:26 PM > To: Navarrette, Vance > Subject: Re: Supplier of bad bolts > > I bought from BPNW. They were County Brand, which is British, came > in a branded package, but I don't know the manufacturer and I'm not > sure that BPNW did either. I also bought County Brand tri-metal main > bearings from BPNW that were made in Israel. The bolts were a new > shipment they had just received, and I was the guinea pig... I have > always had good products at a very good price from BPNW in the past, > but I agree that sometimes price is not what it's about. > > I have bought a number of Chinese made products and all have been > fine, but there are definitely some rough spots. Hopefully they will > get it it right before we all die from low bidders disease. > > By the way, I do appreciate your consistent and faithful attention to > 6-pack. I got my first LBC 30 years ago, a Spitfire and would not > have dreamed of tackling the jobs I do now. It is so important for > me that I have a group of knowledgeable people who share their time to > the extent you do. Thank you. > > John North From triosan at gmail.com Wed Apr 2 07:55:44 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 07:55:44 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts In-Reply-To: <20080402143234.20691.qmail@server306.com> References: <20080402143234.20691.qmail@server306.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0804020755o73081857l83652af3700006c5@mail.gmail.com> In their catalog, under BMC/Triumph/Rover, the con rod for the TR6 and GT6 is part #206-6005. Got mine from Summit Racing. On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 7:32 AM, wrote: > Vance, > > Do you have any info. on ARP bolts that might be suitable for connecting > rod use, or would it be OK to get some good quality Gr 10 star headed bolts? > I can find ARP info for the mains and the cylinder head but not the con > rods ... > > ************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************** > > > > -------Original Message------- > > From: Navarrette, Vance > > Subject: Re: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts > > Sent: Apr 02 '08 09:16 > > > > John: > > > > BPNW has a good track record. If the bolts were bad they will > > make good and find you some good replacements. I would also expect that > > they would also figure out if their supplier needed to be replaced. > It's > > just a shame that there are so many suspect products out there. The > good > > news is that you spotted the problem before buttoning up the motor. > > Having a rod bolt let loose in 500 miles would have been a whole lot > > more inconvenient. > > > > Vance > > > > -----Original Message----- > > From: John North [mailto:johncnorth at gmail.com] > > Sent: Tuesday, April 01, 2008 4:26 PM > > To: Navarrette, Vance > > Subject: Re: Supplier of bad bolts > > > > I bought from BPNW. They were County Brand, which is British, came > > in a branded package, but I don't know the manufacturer and I'm not > > sure that BPNW did either. I also bought County Brand tri-metal main > > bearings from BPNW that were made in Israel. The bolts were a new > > shipment they had just received, and I was the guinea pig... I have > > always had good products at a very good price from BPNW in the past, > > but I agree that sometimes price is not what it's about. > > > > I have bought a number of Chinese made products and all have been > > fine, but there are definitely some rough spots. Hopefully they will > > get it it right before we all die from low bidders disease. > > > > By the way, I do appreciate your consistent and faithful attention to > > 6-pack. I got my first LBC 30 years ago, a Spitfire and would not > > have dreamed of tackling the jobs I do now. It is so important for > > me that I have a group of knowledgeable people who share their time to > > the extent you do. Thank you. > > > > John North > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Apr 2 08:21:56 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (triumph at 2simpleusa.com) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 10:21:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts Message-ID: <20080402152156.10022.qmail@server306.com> Thank Chuck, Found the reference .. and realized that it is information on ARP main bearing bolts that I was looking for! That's the problem of reading list email when at work, and all the stuff is at home in the garage! ************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************** > -------Original Message------- > From: Chuck Arnold > Subject: Re: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts > Sent: Apr 02 '08 09:55 > > In their catalog, under BMC/Triumph/Rover, the con rod for the TR6 and GT6 > is part #206-6005. Got mine from Summit Racing. > > > On Wed, Apr 2, 2008 at 7:32 AM, <[LINK: mailto:triumph at 2simpleusa.com] > triumph at 2simpleusa.com> wrote: > Vance, > > Do you have any info. on ARP bolts that might be suitable for connecting > rod use, or would it be OK to get some good quality Gr 10 star headed > bolts? I can find ARP info for the mains and the cylinder head but not the > con rods ... > > ************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 > ************** > > > > -------Original Message------- > > From: Navarrette, Vance <[LINK: mailto:vance.navarrette at intel.com] > vance.navarrette at intel.com> > > Subject: Re: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts > > Sent: Apr 02 '08 09:16 > > > > John: > > > > BPNW has a good track record. If the bolts were bad they will > > make good and find you some good replacements. I would also expect > that > > they would also figure out if their supplier needed to be replaced. > It's > > just a shame that there are so many suspect products out there. The > good > > news is that you spotted the problem before buttoning up the motor. > > Having a rod bolt let loose in 500 miles would have been a whole lot > > more inconvenient. > > > > Vance > > > > -----Original Message----- From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Apr 2 08:56:54 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 11:56:54 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts In-Reply-To: <20080402143234.20691.qmail@server306.com> References: <20080402143234.20691.qmail@server306.com> Message-ID: Hi, Supposedly, there's a rod bolt available from Catapiller (I think) that's a direct fit for TR6 rods. AND they are x-rayed for defects so you know they are good. I don't recall that the TR6 rod bolts are anything that unusual, 3/8" fine thread... the shank underthe head is precision fit to the hollow locating dowels, that's pretty much it. So, an off the shelf bolt (any grading) would probably not work but there are other sources of bolts out there. FWIW, I did a motor this weekend with the GoodParts replacement rod bolts. Very nice. Def. reccommended. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu Wed Apr 2 09:45:27 2008 From: JAR7U at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu (Ruffner, James A *HS) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 12:45:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts References: <20080402143234.20691.qmail@server306.com> Message-ID: In terms of dimensions, you are right. But remember, they must be grade 8. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jar7u=hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu at autox.team.net on behalf of Robert Lang Sent: Wed 4/2/2008 11:56 AM To: triumph at 2simpleusa.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Supplier of bad bolts Hi, Supposedly, there's a rod bolt available from Catapiller (I think) that's a direct fit for TR6 rods. AND they are x-rayed for defects so you know they are good. I don't recall that the TR6 rod bolts are anything that unusual, 3/8" fine thread... the shank underthe head is precision fit to the hollow locating dowels, that's pretty much it. So, an off the shelf bolt (any grading) would probably not work but there are other sources of bolts out there. FWIW, I did a motor this weekend with the GoodParts replacement rod bolts. Very nice. Def. reccommended. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jar7u at hscmail.mcc.virginia.edu From rclark at robertsonclark.com Wed Apr 2 10:50:28 2008 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 10:50:28 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Starting Problems Solved In-Reply-To: <753186.34137.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Mike, Congratulations on saving one of the '69s. I hope you decide to keep it. My first love was a '69, actually it was girl named Kathy and I really liked her brother's 64 black MGB. After a couple of '71s, a wife and three girls, I found another with OD like yours. It waits patiently in the garage for the house to be finished and the garage rebuilt for its restoration. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Wed Apr 2 11:14:58 2008 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 13:14:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Source for TR6 dash warning light lenses? Message-ID: <002f01c894ed$8e623560$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Apparently, OEM Lucas lenses for hazard, wiper, brake etc. are no longer in production. None of the big 3, nor Rimmer has them. Can't find them on eBay either. Anyone know of a source of used ones? Jerry '74 TR6 under rennovation From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Apr 2 12:46:39 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 19:46:39 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Source for TR6 dash warning light lenses? In-Reply-To: <002f01c894ed$8e623560$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> References: <002f01c894ed$8e623560$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E957CD@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> If you are talking about the oblong illuminated dash warning/info indicators these do pop up on ebay quite frequently. I needed to replace a couple that had self destructed and it just took me a few weeks to acquire them. Are you looking for something in particular or do you need them all ?. One caveat, these seem to vary slightly in shape (bezel style in particular) or perhaps there were similar versions from other cars like spits and stags or they varied from year to year so watch for that if you are looking to match existing lamps. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Shaw Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 2:15 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Source for TR6 dash warning light lenses? Apparently, OEM Lucas lenses for hazard, wiper, brake etc. are no longer in production. None of the big 3, nor Rimmer has them. Can't find them on eBay either. Anyone know of a source of used ones? Jerry '74 TR6 under rennovation From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Apr 2 17:05:07 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 02 Apr 2008 18:05:07 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TTA Stag Restoration Photos! Message-ID: <47F41F33.1080605@tscusa.org> Hi All, Have a look at the TTA web site for new photos!! aka, Stag is now in pieces after only three weekends since it's purchase! http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Great Work STTAG Restoration teams! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From N197TR4 at cs.com Wed Apr 2 17:13:08 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 20:13:08 EDT Subject: [6pack] TTA Stag Restoration Photos! Message-ID: ISOA Rules! It's that Midwest Work Ethic. Joe A > Hi All, > Have a look at the TTA web site for new photos!! > > aka, Stag is now in pieces after only three weekends since it's purchase! > > http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ > > Great Work STTAG Restoration teams! > From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 2 19:42:06 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 19:42:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Source for TR6 dash warning light lenses? In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF720516E957CD@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <381065.54322.qm@web82805.mail.mud.yahoo.com> those are also used in mg's. same part. cast a wider net! good luck. "Foster, Stan" wrote: If you are talking about the oblong illuminated dash warning/info indicators these do pop up on ebay quite frequently. I needed to replace a couple that had self destructed and it just took me a few weeks to acquire them. Are you looking for something in particular or do you need them all ?. One caveat, these seem to vary slightly in shape (bezel style in particular) or perhaps there were similar versions from other cars like spits and stags or they varied from year to year so watch for that if you are looking to match existing lamps. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Jerry Shaw Sent: Wednesday, April 02, 2008 2:15 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Source for TR6 dash warning light lenses? Apparently, OEM Lucas lenses for hazard, wiper, brake etc. are no longer in production. None of the big 3, nor Rimmer has them. Can't find them on eBay either. Anyone know of a source of used ones? Jerry From drs at socal.rr.com Wed Apr 2 20:26:17 2008 From: drs at socal.rr.com (drs at socal.rr.com) Date: Wed, 2 Apr 2008 20:26:17 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Air conditioner parts in Phoenix Message-ID: <19937643.1563111207193178115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web17-z02> Recently there was a posting for some air cond systems/parts, mostly out of MG's, and I believe it was on the 6-pack list, from someone in Phoenix, AZ. I cannot relocate the posting (the agony of delete) or find any reference in the archives. If anyone has the email address of the person who posted the items, could you please forward to me at drs at socal.rr.com? Thanks for your help. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Apr 3 08:17:39 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 11:17:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Anti-seize & Exhaust Message-ID: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> The copper anti-seize says it's good to 2000 degrees so has anyone used it on their exhaust pipes where they slide (and stick) together? Or would it get too messy and stink? It's always such a struggle to separate pipes so would that help or be a bad idea? Thanks Bob.....almost ready to start her back up again. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Apr 3 08:31:41 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 08:31:41 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Anti-seize & Exhaust In-Reply-To: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: I would think that copper anti-seize would not be of much use. The exhaust pipes are reluctant to separate because the metal has been swaged (compressed) and necked down in the vicinity of the pipe clamp. Pulling the pipes apart requires stretching the metal on the outer pipe back to its original diameter, which is not going to be easy no matter what. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Thursday, April 03, 2008 8:18 AM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; '6 Pack' Subject: [6pack] Anti-seize & Exhaust The copper anti-seize says it's good to 2000 degrees so has anyone used it on their exhaust pipes where they slide (and stick) together? Or would it get too messy and stink? It's always such a struggle to separate pipes so would that help or be a bad idea? Thanks Bob.....almost ready to start her back up again. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org _______________________________________________ From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Apr 3 09:05:18 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 12:05:18 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Anti-seize & Exhaust In-Reply-To: References: <000801c8959d$dcd2dd70$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: On Thu, 3 Apr 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Bob: > > I would think that copper anti-seize would not be of much use. > The exhaust pipes are reluctant to separate because the metal has been > swaged (compressed) and necked down in the vicinity of the pipe clamp. > Pulling the pipes apart requires stretching the metal on the outer pipe > back to its original diameter, which is not going to be easy no matter > what. It's easy to get 'em apart with THE BLUE WRENCH. :-) My fix for preventing all this stuff is metal flange joints everywhere. Using clamps on TR6 exhaust system is asking for trouble 'cause there's a lot of jobs that start with "remove muffler" or "remove intermediate pipe". > Vance regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From massitti at telus.net Thu Apr 3 21:25:01 2008 From: massitti at telus.net (Orest Massitti) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 22:25:01 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose Message-ID: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> Hello List Is there any value in replacing the plastic Hydraulic clutch hose w/ a SS version (if they even exist?)? My Slave Cylinder is shot so I figured it's time to replace the hose as well so might as well do it right. (the Master cylinder is new). Thanks Orest http://www.triumphowners.com/866 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Apr 3 23:29:59 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 3 Apr 2008 23:29:59 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose In-Reply-To: "Orest Massitti" 's message of Thu, 3 Apr 2008 22:25:01 -0600 Message-ID: <1801-47F5CAE7-5770@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Orest----Check the TR parts suppliers for "competition" hydraulic hoses. Unless your original hose was compromised somewhere along the way, it could still be seviceable. This hose doesn't have to take any where near the potential pressure of the brake hoses. Dick From: massitti at telus.net(Orest Massitti) Hello List Is there any value in replacing the plastic Hydraulic clutch hose w/ a SS version (if they even exist?)? My Slave Cylinder is shot so I figured it's time to replace the hose as well so might as well do it right. (the Master cylinder is new). Thanks Orest http://www.triumphowners.com/866 ______________________________________ From DLylis at aol.com Fri Apr 4 04:28:48 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 07:28:48 EDT Subject: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose Message-ID: I was having a few small clutch issues when I bought my car. I finally changed out the hose (not SS) and the issues went away. It seems that it was running very close to the block and would expand just enough to prevent the hydraulics from giving 100%. I was always getting a nick when going into reverse and shift to first was just a little harder than I liked. I don't know that stainless in necessary, but your call. YMMV David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From tedtsimx at bright.net Fri Apr 4 05:59:57 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Fri, 04 Apr 2008 07:59:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose In-Reply-To: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> References: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> Message-ID: <47F6264D.6000802@bright.net> Orest Massitti wrote: > Hello List > > > > Is there any value in replacing the plastic Hydraulic clutch hose w/ a SS > version (if they even exist?)? My Slave Cylinder is shot so I figured it's > time to replace the hose as well so might as well do it right. (the Master > cylinder is new). > > > > Thanks > > > > Orest > > http://www.triumphowners.com/866 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tedtsimx at bright.net > > > Commercial content and reality factor. We make s steel braid hose for this application. Probably no beter performance when OE hose is new. But, once OE hose starts to become deteriorated form heat and a fairly harsh environment, the steel braid wins every time. $32. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 4 06:15:45 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 06:15:45 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 Emmisions devices In-Reply-To: <000901c88e15$87184030$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <33404.82404.qm@web54102.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hello List(s), Recently some one was asking about the air injection rail fitted to lat TR6 engines. If they (or anyone else) still is in need of it, I have the complete air injection system still attached to the exhaust manifold (excluding air pump). I do not need it (no emmision regulations where I live), so wanted to offer here first. Please contact me off-list if interested. Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" Little Rock, AR Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Apr 4 07:25:16 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 10:25:16 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose In-Reply-To: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> References: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> Message-ID: On Thu, 3 Apr 2008, Orest Massitti wrote: > Hello List > > > > Is there any value in replacing the plastic Hydraulic clutch hose w/ a SS > version (if they even exist?)? My Slave Cylinder is shot so I figured it's > time to replace the hose as well so might as well do it right. (the Master > cylinder is new). Is there value? Besides the oooh-ahh factor, the stock setup works pretty well. That said, I have SS on both my TR6's. The lines are pretty much AN4 - both ends. You can buy the lines from the "usual suspects" for cheap money. You want to use AN4 lines, though. I use AN3 on my race car and it works, but the clutch need you to push a lot fluid really fast so AN4 is the better choice. The pipe from the clutch MC has an adapter to AN4, so if you decided to switch a AN3 you'd have to replace the adapter of fit an AN4 to AN3 adapter which is too much plumbing in my mind. > Thanks > > > > Orest regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Apr 4 08:17:50 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 08:17:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose In-Reply-To: References: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> Message-ID: Robert: Yes THERE IS VALUE. Nothing is more satisfying than lifting the hood and impressing the other boys with your "equipment". Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 7:25 AM To: Orest Massitti Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose > > Is there any value in replacing the plastic Hydraulic clutch hose w/ a SS > version (if they even exist?)? My Slave Cylinder is shot so I figured it's > time to replace the hose as well so might as well do it right. (the Master > cylinder is new). Is there value? Besides the oooh-ahh factor, the stock setup works pretty well. From Lfm614 at aol.com Fri Apr 4 09:15:20 2008 From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 4 Apr 2008 12:15:20 EDT Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Clutch Hydraulic hose Message-ID: Ah Grasshopper, As Confucius say "It's not the size of the bird but the song it sings"....Not all have to lift the hood to impress the other boys with their equipment. Lou In a message dated 4/4/2008 10:29:34 A.M. Central Daylight Time, vance.navarrette at intel.com writes: Robert: Yes THERE IS VALUE. Nothing is more satisfying than lifting the hood and impressing the other boys with your "equipment". Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Friday, April 04, 2008 7:25 AM To: Orest Massitti Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch Hydraulic hose > > Is there any value in replacing the plastic Hydraulic clutch hose w/ a SS > version (if they even exist?)? My Slave Cylinder is shot so I figured it's > time to replace the hose as well so might as well do it right. (the Master > cylinder is new). Is there value? Besides the oooh-ahh factor, the stock setup works pretty well. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com ____________________________________ Planning your summer road trip? Check out _AOL Travel Guides_ (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) . **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 5 10:53:52 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2008 09:53:52 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 cooling hoses References: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> <47F6264D.6000802@bright.net> Message-ID: <00e901c89746$030eb6e0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello Lists, Spring is here. I'll be changing all the cooling hoses on my six. I'll pull the thermostat and leave radiator cap off for draining. Will coolent drain so heater will not drain into car? No leaks/problems just trying to improve reliability for stop and go driving in hot weather. I already have green hoses and clips set. Any and all thoughts/suggestions appreciated. Regards, Bob From acekraut11 at aol.com Sat Apr 5 07:27:28 2008 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sat, 05 Apr 2008 10:27:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 cooling hoses In-Reply-To: <00e901c89746$030eb6e0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <001c01c8960b$da1958c0$8e4c0a40$@net> <47F6264D.6000802@bright.net> <00e901c89746$030eb6e0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <8CA65404E9995DF-1168-251F@mblk-d10.sysops.aol.com> Bob, You will still get a slight bit of draining from the coolant left in the hoses so just have a rag ready when you are ready to change the interior hoses.? I left my rubber floor mats in just to protect the area.? But really there was minimal leaking.? Hoses are a nice project, not to long and a big return in appearance.? Match up all your hoses first to make sure you dont put the wrong small hose in the wrong place since a few are similar and it is possible for them to fit in the wrong place. Cheers, Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Bob To: triumphs-request at autox.team.net Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 12:53 pm Subject: [6pack] TR6 cooling hoses Hello Lists, Spring is here. I'll be changing all the cooling hoses on my six. I'll pull the thermostat and leave radiator cap off for draining. Will coolent drain so heater will not drain into car? No leaks/problems just trying to improve reliability for stop and go driving in hot weather. I already have green hoses and clips set. Any and all thoughts/suggestions appreciated. Regards, Bob From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 5 12:58:15 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 14:58:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Southwest Triumph Regionals References: Message-ID: <002501c89757$6426ea40$800101df@garage.local> http://www.redrivertriumphclub.org/regional2008_index.html definite financial and other interest!!!!!!!!!! if you have any questions, please feel free to email me directly!!! From apackard68 at comcast.net Sat Apr 5 20:14:13 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 20:14:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Progress on Andy's TR250 restoration Message-ID: <200804060314.m363EDhi008724@upsa-web120.ofoto.com> I had to order some rubber parts and get some overlooked parts powder coated in order to be able to finish my front suspension install. I lifted the Nissan differential into position as well. The second to last pic shows the limited clearance I have with the front flange of the diff. I may have to modify something to address this. I had a little trouble getting the R lower spring pad (poly-u) to seat cleanly the first time, so I redid that side. The pics could be a tour of many of Richard Good's offerings. You can see the steering rack mounts, the front sway bar, nylatron bushings throughout and the Nissan differential conversion. Other upgrades include Uncle Jack's front spindles, uprated front springs (stock height), Koni shocks and grade eight fasteners throughout. Toyota 4-pot calipers need to be cleaned up before I install them and drilled rotors will go on with the hubs. You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.6sxapxan&x=0&y=re7572&localeid=en_US If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.6sxapxan&x=0&y=re7572&localeid=en_US From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 6 06:49:03 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 08:49:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Progress on Andy's TR250 restoration In-Reply-To: <200804060314.m363EDhi008724@upsa-web120.ofoto.com> References: <200804060314.m363EDhi008724@upsa-web120.ofoto.com> Message-ID: <000f01c897e4$99bc47d0$210110ac@bobspc> Andy, The frame and suspension look great! But you will have to address the pinion flange and the driveshaft tunnel. It's also something RATCO might want to know about as more Nissan diff conversions are sold. I had the exact same problem and you're not going to like hearing the solution that Richard recommended. I ended up taking a big C-Clamp and flattening the driveshaft tunnel at the flange area so that I now have 1/2 - 3/4" of clearance. You have to have sufficient clearance as the nose does dive down a little on deceleration. You can add his spacing washers to the top of the rear mounts which will angle the nose up but, per Richard, "the boss that is welded on to the bottom washer must bottom out against the frame stud" If you remove one of the rear bottom washers & flip it over you'll see now it's made to fit over the frame stud. I haven't had time to update my site with pictures of this but it's coming. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of apackard68 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:14 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Progress on Andy's TR250 restoration I had to order some rubber parts and get some overlooked parts powder coated in order to be able to finish my front suspension install. I lifted the Nissan differential into position as well. The second to last pic shows the limited clearance I have with the front flange of the diff. I may have to modify something to address this. I had a little trouble getting the R lower spring pad (poly-u) to seat cleanly the first time, so I redid that side. The pics could be a tour of many of Richard Good's offerings. You can see the steering rack mounts, the front sway bar, nylatron bushings throughout and the Nissan differential conversion. Other upgrades include Uncle Jack's front spindles, uprated front springs (stock height), Koni shocks and grade eight fasteners throughout. Toyota 4-pot calipers need to be cleaned up before I install them and drilled rotors will go on with the hubs. From triosan at gmail.com Sun Apr 6 08:41:34 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 07:41:34 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Progress on Andy's TR250 restoration In-Reply-To: <200804060314.m363EDhi008724@upsa-web120.ofoto.com> References: <200804060314.m363EDhi008724@upsa-web120.ofoto.com> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0804060741x158de30dq46def7e599a6993c@mail.gmail.com> So yesterday I put my engine in -- damn drive shaft is 2" too long with the Good Parts diff and an A type OD. So now out it comes and off to the driveline dhop yet again. To put the bolts into the diff flange to drive shaft, I use a telescoping magnet. Put the bolt on the magnet, shove it through the tunnel and guide it into the hole. There is enough room to get the necessary two wrenches in place to tighten the nut. Chuck On Sat, Apr 5, 2008 at 8:14 PM, wrote: > I had to order some rubber parts and get some overlooked parts powder > coated in order to be able to finish my front suspension install. I lifted > the Nissan differential into position as well. The second to last pic shows > the limited clearance I have with the front flange of the diff. I may have > to modify something to address this. I had a little trouble getting the R > lower spring pad (poly-u) to seat cleanly the first time, so I redid that > side. > The pics could be a tour of many of Richard Good's offerings. You can see > the steering rack mounts, the front sway bar, nylatron bushings throughout > and the Nissan differential conversion. Other upgrades include Uncle Jack's > front spindles, uprated front springs (stock height), Koni shocks and grade > eight fasteners throughout. Toyota 4-pot calipers need to be cleaned up > before I install them and drilled rotors will go on with the hubs. > > > You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! > Just click on View Photos to get started. > > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.6sxapxan&x=0&y=re7572&localeid=en_US > If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or > if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've > signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want > and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. > > Enjoy! > Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're > an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can > join the Gallery for free. > http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp > > Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team > Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > > If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the > following URL directly into your browser: > > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.6sxapxan&x=0&y=re7572&localeid=en_US > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Sun Apr 6 11:37:02 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 10:37:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Andy's frame resto Message-ID: <966811.36893.qm@web51412.mail.re2.yahoo.com> The photos of Andy's frame etc would no doubt amaze the guys who built the original TR 6s . They really look great and when he gets the thing done it will undoubtedly be better than it ever was when new. Of course , after thinking about it a bit, most of our cars have been modified in one way or another to make them a little better than they were when new some 30+ years ago. Too bad I can't say the same about MY body. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR 6 + a 69 and 71 --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. From johncnorth at gmail.com Sun Apr 6 12:39:26 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:39:26 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Long head bolts Message-ID: <49f668fe0804061139l7b93d015s27a59c0521c824b9@mail.gmail.com> Anyone know where the slightly longer head bolts fit? I marked them on disassembly as going on the two holes to the rear and on the oil filter side (bolts K and G in Bentley, p122), but I can't figure out why they would need to be longer there in particular. Nowhere else makes much sense either... Any help appreciated. John North From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 6 14:55:49 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 16:55:49 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Progress on Andy's TR250 restoration Message-ID: <000d01c89828$99304390$210110ac@bobspc> Let me try this again and stay within the allowed 6-Pack file size..... Andy, The frame and suspension look great! But you will have to address the pinion flange and the driveshaft tunnel. It's also something RATCO might want to know about as more Nissan diff conversions are sold. I had the exact same problem and you're not going to like hearing the solution that Richard recommended. I ended up taking a big C-Clamp and flattening the driveshaft tunnel at the flange area so that I now have 1/2 - 3/4" of clearance. You have to have sufficient clearance as the nose does dive down a little on deceleration. You can add his spacing washers to the top of the rear mounts which will angle the nose up but, per Richard, "the boss that is welded on to the bottom washer must bottom out against the frame stud" If you remove one of the rear bottom washers & flip it over you'll see now it's made to fit over the frame stud. I haven't had time to update my site with pictures of this but it's coming. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of apackard68 at comcast.net Sent: Saturday, April 05, 2008 11:14 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Progress on Andy's TR250 restoration I had to order some rubber parts and get some overlooked parts powder coated in order to be able to finish my front suspension install. I lifted the Nissan differential into position as well. The second to last pic shows the limited clearance I have with the front flange of the diff. I may have to modify something to address this. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 6 15:50:53 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:50:53 -0700 Subject: [6pack] TR6 cooling hoses In-Reply-To: Bob 's message of Sat, 05 Apr 2008 09:53:52 -0800 Message-ID: <10273-47F945BD-13697@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Bob P---If you are also replacing the two heater hoses on the passenger side of the firewall, you can use compressed air. Blow from the top hose out thru the bottom hose, on the engine side. Dick From: rpeglow at optonline.net(Bob) Hello Lists, Spring is here. I'll be changing all the cooling hoses on my six. I'll pull the thermostat and leave radiator cap off for draining. Will coolent drain so heater will not drain into car? No leaks/problems just trying to improve reliability for stop and go driving in hot weather. I already have green hoses and clips set. Any and all thoughts/suggestions appreciated. Regards, Bob ______________________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 6 16:02:10 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 15:02:10 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Long head bolts In-Reply-To: "John North" 's message of Sun, 6 Apr 2008 14:39:26 -0400 Message-ID: <10274-47F94862-7338@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> John N.---I use these two longer bolts so they stick up higher when next to the rocker pedestals. It's easier to get the socket on the nut on these two places, due to interference from the pedestal nuts. An alternate place could be near the heater valve nipple. Actually, I'd prefer that ALL of the studs be the longer length, so I wouldn't have to use a jam nut when double-nutting for removing and replacing the studs. Over time, I lost the original places for these two longer studs, as they were located at the factory. Dick '73 Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: johncnorth at gmail.com(John North) Date: Sun, Apr 6, 2008, 2:39pm (PDT+3) To: 6pack at autox.team.net (Triumph 6 Pack) Subject: [6pack] Long head bolts Anyone know where the slightly longer head bolts fit? I marked them on disassembly as going on the two holes to the rear and on the oil filter side (bolts K and G in Bentley, p122), but I can't figure out why they would need to be longer there in particular. Nowhere else makes much sense either... Any help appreciated. John North ______________________________________________ From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Sun Apr 6 16:47:35 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 15:47:35 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] gas pains .... Message-ID: <344710.3847.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> My fuel pump is leaking around the "dome" - from both around the bolt on top and around the base. I replaced the rubber o-rings and I still get some seepage. Will a gasket sealer like Permatex Blue or Black hold up around fuel? Another surprise I discovered was that the fine mesh plastic filter screen appeared to have "melted". It was misshapened and twisted, as though some chemical caused it to soften and sag. I admit that I use CD2 lead replacement concentrate every other tank full, per instructions. Sometime ago I put 1/2 bottle of Techron in the tank last fall. Thinking the Techron may be the culprit I put a little bit of Techron in a jar and placed the filter in it and left it sealed overnight. So far the filter is the same shape. Any ideas why this filter got misshapened? Jim From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 6 16:58:53 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 18:58:53 -0400 Subject: [6pack] First Start Up Message-ID: <000001c89839$cadeb550$210110ac@bobspc> I shared this gem with some TR friends today but it's time to share it with everyone.....I got the engine and 5 speed installed last Sunday and spent the week getting all the engine pieces, cooling system, driveshaft etc. hooked up. Today was the day to start her up. Turned on the key, listened for the electric fuel pump...so far so good...turned the key more and the dormant TBI system fired her right up.......except for that incessant screeching! OMG....it's the pilot bushing on the end on the tranny input shaft. I've got to pull the tranny to fix. I go in the house and my wife says..."I heard the car start right up but it sounds like a belt or something squealing". Back to the garage, loosen the alternator and the new belt and fire it up again. Now it's just a squeal, quiet, squeal, quiet.....as I look at the alternator, I realize that the alternator fan is hitting the bracket! A slight adjustment and all is happy in Hooville! God, I love my wife! Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From lfm614 at aol.com Sun Apr 6 18:00:58 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 00:00:58 +0000 Subject: [6pack] gas pains .... In-Reply-To: <344710.3847.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <344710.3847.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <716544950-1207526460-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1223194436-@bxe026.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> They are both formulated to withstand gas but you shouldn't need it. I would coat the rubber with a little oil, make sure the seal areas are clean and not pitted and you have a fiber washer under the bolt. Do not over tighten. You should get another screen though and I don't think it comes in the rebuild kit. Although if you have a filter before the pump it should compensate for the lack of a screen. Lou -----Original Message----- From: Jim Jones Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 15:47:35 To:6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] gas pains .... My fuel pump is leaking around the "dome" - from both around the bolt on top and around the base. I replaced the rubber o-rings and I still get some seepage. Will a gasket sealer like Permatex Blue or Black hold up around fuel? Another surprise I discovered was that the fine mesh plastic filter screen appeared to have "melted". It was misshapened and twisted, as though some chemical caused it to soften and sag. I admit that I use CD2 lead replacement concentrate every other tank full, per instructions. Sometime ago I put 1/2 bottle of Techron in the tank last fall. Thinking the Techron may be the culprit I put a little bit of Techron in a jar and placed the filter in it and left it sealed overnight. So far the filter is the same shape. Any ideas why this filter got misshapened? Jim _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 6 18:51:22 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 20:51:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Cleaning halogen headlight housing Message-ID: <47F9700A.3070801@snet.net> Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the inside of a 7" halogen headlight housing. There just dusty inside, but rinsing leaves the reflector with water spots. Thanks for any advice, John Mitchell 76tr6 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 6 20:07:01 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 06 Apr 2008 20:07:01 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Cleaning halogen headlight housing In-Reply-To: <47F9700A.3070801@snet.net> References: <47F9700A.3070801@snet.net> Message-ID: <47F981C5.6080501@tscusa.org> A dilute solution of alcohol and water works great for me as a rinse. John Mitchell wrote: > Anybody have a good technique for cleaning the inside of a 7" > halogen headlight housing. There just dusty inside, but rinsing leaves > the reflector with water spots. Thanks for any advice, John Mitchell > 76tr6 -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From jsnable at mac.com Sun Apr 6 22:11:01 2008 From: jsnable at mac.com (Jay Snable) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 21:11:01 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Long head bolts In-Reply-To: <10274-47F94862-7338@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> References: <10274-47F94862-7338@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <42B34360-C617-4AA4-BA7B-3409BE5501EA@mac.com> The bolts on my '73 were in the front right locations when I received the car 18 years after manufacture. Now whether that's where they originally were is another question! I always wondered if they were in the front in order to bolt on an accessory like A/C or something... Now all the bolts are the same length as I went with the ARP solution the last time I had the head off... Jay On Apr 6, 2008, at 3:02 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > John N.---I use these two longer bolts so they stick up higher when > next > to the rocker pedestals. It's easier to get the socket on the nut on > these two places, due to interference from the pedestal nuts. An > alternate place could be near the heater valve nipple. > Actually, I'd prefer that ALL of the studs be the longer length, so I > wouldn't have to use a jam nut when double-nutting for removing and > replacing the studs. > > Over time, I lost the original places for these two longer studs, as > they were located at the factory. > > Dick > '73 > > Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: > johncnorth at gmail.com(John North) Date: Sun, Apr 6, 2008, 2:39pm > (PDT+3) To: 6pack at autox.team.net (Triumph 6 Pack) Subject: [6pack] > Long > head bolts > Anyone know where the slightly longer head bolts fit? I marked them > on disassembly as going on the two holes to the rear and on the oil > filter side (bolts K and G in Bentley, p122), but I can't figure out > why > they would need to be longer there in particular. Nowhere else makes > much sense either... > Any help appreciated. > John North From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 6 23:47:47 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 6 Apr 2008 22:47:47 -0700 Subject: [6pack] gas pains .... In-Reply-To: Jim Jones 's message of Sun, 6 Apr 2008 15:47:35 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <27008-47F9B583-13966@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Jim---I can't help regarding what sealer would do the job, other than to say that the pump shouldn't leak without any sealer. On the "twisted filter" (Is that a new Rock Group)? if this is the one with the glass and chrome shell, I have seen them start to twist when tightening the end caps. Go easy here. They shouldn't twist when in service. Dick From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com(Jim Jones) My fuel pump is leaking around the "dome" - from both around the bolt on top and around the base. I replaced the rubber o-rings and I still get some seepage. Will a gasket sealer like Permatex Blue or Black hold up around fuel? Another surprise I discovered was that the fine mesh plastic filter screen appeared to have "melted". It was misshapened and twisted, as though some chemical caused it to soften and sag. I admit that I use CD2 lead replacement concentrate every other tank full, per instructions. Sometime ago I put 1/2 bottle of Techron in the tank last fall. Thinking the Techron may be the culprit I put a little bit of Techron in a jar and placed the filter in it and left it sealed overnight. So far the filter is the same shape. Any ideas why this filter got misshapened? Jim From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Mon Apr 7 06:16:30 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 05:16:30 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Head Bolts Message-ID: <719570.55908.qm@web51409.mail.re2.yahoo.com> John, As suggested by Jay Snable the two longer head bolts go in the two rignt front (passenger side) holes in the block and are there to secure the AC compressor mount should you have ordered that accessory. I have been coveting AC for my 6 and learned this from friends here in Florida while gathering bits for the conversion. FWIW the AC brackets and crank pullies for the belt have become quite hard to find. I think Al Salvatore, the six pack's resident BLING expert, resorted to having a batch of pullies made by a machine shop in his area. Mike Lunsford, 3 TR6s, no AC on any of them --------------------------------- You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com Mon Apr 7 06:57:22 2008 From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 05:57:22 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Looking for previous owner Message-ID: <158263.33053.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Folks, I have just acquired a 75 '6- CF38421U, dark green (I'm not so sure it's BRG, however). I bought it from Marc Evans, proprietor of New England Classic Cars in Stratford Ct. Now, the guy he acquired the car from only had it for about 5 months- (apparently traded it and some other cars for a rare condition Morgan)...and he came from Georgia. Not sure if the previous owner to him was from Georgia, but...I'm trying to establish contact, in order to find out more on the history of this car's care. Always dicey buying a car w/o documentation, but it has been gone over thoroughly (and in very fine shape)...but...I'd like to have a chat with one or both of these owners to get a feel for work done (besides the obvious). Any thoughts on this? I'm particularly interested in what the fine folks at GTA might know of this car. Photos can be furnished as requested. Thanks in advance, Pete Once-again TR6 owner Formally in Vermont, now in Colorado! From tr250 at mindspring.com Mon Apr 7 09:05:20 2008 From: tr250 at mindspring.com (Mark Walker) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 11:05:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Update on 2008 Trials Message-ID: <000e01c898c0$cc68c460$653a4d20$@com> The University of Tennessee has changed it's football schedule. The Vols now have a home game on Saturday Sept 13. No change to our plans for the Trials but UT home games usually pack in the fans. I recommend that you reserve your room(s) at the Valley View Lodge ASAP to make sure you are not forced out to another motel by the crush of UT fans. Mark Walker Tr250 at mindspring.com Trials host From samuelsma at aol.com Mon Apr 7 10:32:18 2008 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 12:32:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Leaking fuel pump Message-ID: <8CA66E41473E1B0-8C4-24BA@webmail-nd02.sysops.aol.com> I had the same thing happen with my fuel pump several weeks ago.? I removed the bolt, slipped a small O-ring under the bolt head, and reassembled.? The leaking stopped.? I posted this matter to the list, and several people wrote back to say that a leaking pump required replacement because it usually came with fuel leaking into the crankcase as well.? So I promptly ignored the experts. A few days and only a few miles after the exchange, my car got to the point where it would barely run.? I had it flat-bedded to the shop.? There, they pulled the dipstick and found the oil to be full of gasoline.? They replaced the pump with an electric version and changed the oil and filter.? The car runs great now. So I guess the moral of the story is to listen to those who know more than you do (just about everyone on the list, in my case...) Michael '76 Tahiti blue CF 57044U From mahutchinson at rightbuyhome.com Mon Apr 7 10:41:15 2008 From: mahutchinson at rightbuyhome.com (Michael A. Hutchinson) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 11:41:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] crank damper rebuilder Message-ID: <002601c898ce$34013b40$6601a8c0@MICHAEL> Hello all, Anyone have good advice on options for having the crank damper rebuilt for my '71 TR6? Getting a game plan together and amassing parts for the engine rebuild. Are there any reasonable options as far as a high performance option for one? TIA for all ideas. Michael Hutchinson, '71 TR6 "Lazarus" From caryhenry at hotmail.com Mon Apr 7 11:18:59 2008 From: caryhenry at hotmail.com (Cary Henry) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 13:18:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Selling My 1976 Message-ID: Well, the time has come to part ways with my car. As some of you know I bought it from my dad after Katrina and did a full frame off restoration. The car came out nice. Too nice for me to feel comfortable driving it. Since my wife and I are moving to Indiana in June I decided to go ahead and sell it to get some extra cash for a down payment on our house. I have the car listed on ebay (item no: 150233888148). I want to thank everyone here for all of the help with my questions. Hopefully I will pick up another Triumph in the near future that I won't mind driving in the rain and such. Thanks, Cary _________________________________________________________________ More immediate than e-mail? Get instant access with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ instantaccess_042008 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Mon Apr 7 11:35:21 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 11:35:21 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Selling My 1976 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47FA5B59.9030104@tscusa.org> Cary Henry wrote: > Well, the time has come to part ways with my car. As some of you know I > bought it from my dad after Katrina and did a full frame off restoration. The > car came out nice. Too nice for me to feel comfortable driving it. Since my > wife and I are moving to Indiana in June I decided to go ahead and sell it to > get some extra cash for a down payment on our house. I have the car listed on > ebay (item no: 150233888148). > > I want to thank everyone here for all of the help with my questions. > Hopefully I will pick up another Triumph in the near future that I won't mind > driving in the rain and such. > > Thanks, > Cary > > Cary, Triumphs are made for driving. Sorry to read you need to sell at this time. Does it have a salvage or flood title? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Apr 7 11:41:19 2008 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 13:41:19 EDT Subject: [6pack] [TR] First Start Up Message-ID: Bob, Ahh - the perceptive powers of the female ear!! I've learned over the years (35) not to ignore my wife's responses regarding strange noises from my machines (cars, tractors, etc.). It's just amazing to me how her "untrained" ear can help me solve these puzzles with the simplest of descriptions like "it sorta sounds like some crickets in a can".....(now, you gotta ask, when was the last time she heard crickets in can...) Congrats on a successful Start-Up! Chip Krout Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. Skippack, PA 1976 TR6 CF57822U In a message dated 4/6/2008 3:59:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: A slight adjustment and all is happy in Hooville! God, I love my wife! **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 7 12:05:56 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 11:05:56 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] crank damper rebuilder Message-ID: <511730.53375.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Michael, These guys are both options. I actually don't remember which one I used. http://www.damperdudes.net/ http://www.damperdoctor.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=SFNT&Store_Code=DD It came back nicely finished, and they even repaired a chip i had in my belt pulley. Kendall ----- Original Message ---- Anyone have good advice on options for having the crank damper rebuilt for my '71 TR6? From bratt at sasktel.net Mon Apr 7 12:33:55 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Mon, 07 Apr 2008 12:33:55 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [TR] First Start Up References: Message-ID: <002201c898dd$efdfb8f0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Bob: In defence of your wife, "Can" is often used as a slang word or a colequalism (hope I spelled that correctly) for a bathroom or toilet; ie: the bog, the john, the boy's room, little girl's room, dickey's hang out, the piss*r, the loo, crapper, WC. It is possible that she just might have been in a "can" where there were crickets. I live on the prairies where there are plenty of crickets and I know I have been in a "can" where there were crickets. Either that or she (God forbid the good woman could) be imagining things like bugs in a tin. Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org>; <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 11:41 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] First Start Up > Bob, > > Ahh - the perceptive powers of the female ear!! I've learned over the > years > (35) not to ignore my wife's responses regarding strange noises from my > machines (cars, tractors, etc.). It's just amazing to me how her > "untrained" ear > can help me solve these puzzles with the simplest of descriptions like > "it > sorta sounds like some crickets in a can".....(now, you gotta ask, when > was > the last time she heard crickets in can...) > > Congrats on a successful Start-Up! > > Chip Krout > Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd. > Skippack, PA > 1976 TR6 CF57822U > > > In a message dated 4/6/2008 3:59:50 P.M. Pacific Daylight Time, > 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: > > A slight adjustment and all is happy in Hooville! God, > I love my wife! > > > > > > **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. > > (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.8/1363 - Release Date: 4/7/2008 > 8:56 AM From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Mon Apr 7 12:13:40 2008 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 14:13:40 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 155 References: Message-ID: <038801c898db$88ee7d90$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Michael Try TRF. My rebuilt seemed competently done, but only time will tell. Other listers may have better sources. You can always wait for sales, or join the TRF Car Club for discounts.214479R T56 PULLEY & DAMPER,REBUILT $50.00 Core $169.95 Jerry >Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 11:41:15 -0500 > From: "Michael A. Hutchinson" > Subject: [6pack] crank damper rebuilder > To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Message-ID: <002601c898ce$34013b40$6601a8c0 at MICHAEL> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > Hello all, > > > > Anyone have good advice on options for having the crank damper rebuilt for > my '71 TR6? Getting a game plan together and amassing parts for the > engine > rebuild. Are there any reasonable options as far as a high performance > option for one? TIA for all ideas. > > > > Michael Hutchinson, > > '71 TR6 "Lazarus" From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 7 14:34:30 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 15:34:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] buterfingers award References: <99709.43932.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000101c89905$a0911cd0$32010a0a@garage.local> apparently my over enthusiastic mechanic put my license plate on with bolts instead of machine screws or whatever. in removing the plate (renewal time) i dropped an open end craftsman wrench down into the depths of the metal work in the back, just inside of where the license plate bolts come through. i practically destroyed my magnetic retirever trying to get it without success. anyone familiar with the body work back there? would i have to rip out the carpet under the spare tire? take a torch to it? is it gone? or is there maybe a way i can get to the metalwork at the insde base of the tail? From f700fast at yahoo.com Mon Apr 7 18:03:44 2008 From: f700fast at yahoo.com (Tom Rand) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 17:03:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6's On You Tube web Site Message-ID: <43077.68670.qm@web55305.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Check out clips of TR6 cars on You tube. I spent an hour looking through stuff people added to the web site. ____________________________________________________________________________________ You rock. That's why Blockbuster's offering you one month of Blockbuster Total Access, No Cost. http://tc.deals.yahoo.com/tc/blockbuster/text5.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Apr 7 19:28:23 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 7 Apr 2008 21:28:23 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6's On You Tube web Site In-Reply-To: <43077.68670.qm@web55305.mail.re4.yahoo.com> References: <43077.68670.qm@web55305.mail.re4.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 7 Apr 2008, Tom Rand wrote: > Check out clips of TR6 cars on You tube. I spent an hour looking through stuff people added to the web site. I put a new one up there just now... Try this link: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3zxgu711Nq0 or search tr6 autox I can't believe it, but that video is at least 4 years old. Seems like yesterday. Oh, if you stop-watch it, I think the run was in the 38.7 range. Too bad about the cone though. I still had FTD. But that was another run, I think. :-) regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 7 20:17:35 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 02:17:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] buterfingers award In-Reply-To: <000101c89905$a0911cd0$32010a0a@garage.local> References: <99709.43932.qm@web51304.mail.re2.yahoo.com> <000101c89905$a0911cd0$32010a0a@garage.local> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814837@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I think the only access short of taking that panel apart is through the opening through which the spanner went south. Perhaps you need a BFM (the magnet equivalent of the legendary hammer) or recruit a friendly laparoscopic surgeon. The panel gets narrow at the bottom so perhaps it got wedged and you could dislodge it with a stiff wire and then grasp it with a tool/magnet Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Monday, April 07, 2008 4:35 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] buterfingers award apparently my over enthusiastic mechanic put my license plate on with bolts instead of machine screws or whatever. in removing the plate (renewal time) i dropped an open end craftsman wrench down into the depths of the metal work in the back, just inside of where the license plate bolts come through. i practically destroyed my magnetic retirever trying to get it without success. anyone familiar with the body work back there? would i have to rip out the carpet under the spare tire? take a torch to it? is it gone? or is there maybe a way i can get to the metalwork at the insde base of the tail? _______________________________________________ From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Apr 8 21:12:38 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 08 Apr 2008 20:12:38 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Coolant, draining heater core References: Message-ID: <009f01c899ef$9107cc60$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> BINGO Worked, perfect. Hose to heater valve (engine side of FW) goes to bottom of heater, so this is best for draining into 1 pint or so container. Apply compressed air to other hose (engine side of FW). Then, disconnected inside heater hoses, maybe 2 tablespoons of coolant drained out. Thank you. ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Sunday, April 06, 2008 8:30 AM Subject: Coolant > > I have not done this but I would bet that if you disconnect both hoses from > the engine side and introduced compressed air to the in hose you could > collect most of it from the out hose and eliminate the carpet issues > inside. With both hoses disconnected the pressure will not be a problem. > Sent from my Blackberry wireless handheld > ---ooo--- Internet Confidentiality Statement ---ooo--- > > The information contained in this communication is confidential and is > intended only for the use of the recipient named above, and may be legally > privileged and exempt from disclosure under applicable law. If the reader > of this message is not the intended recipient, you are hereby notified that > any dissemination, distribution or copying of this communication is > strictly prohibited. If you have received this communication in error, > please resend it to the sender and delete the original message and any copy > of it from your computer system. Opinions, conclusions and other > information in this message that do not relate to our official business > should be understood as neither given nor endorsed by this company. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 8 17:55:07 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 19:55:07 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting Message-ID: <000501c899d3$fb153780$210110ac@bobspc> A couple of brake questions: 1. I've installed a rebuilt servo, new m/c, rebuilt calipers, new rear cylinders (0.75" bore) new Kevlar pads and shoes, new clips & springs and new braided hose. So it's all new & now in need of fluif or fluid even. And I'm going with Castrol GTLMA DOT4. I've been told that the majority of air bubbles that you see after purging the initial batch of them is from air coming in around the threads of the loose bleeder screw. As a result, it's best to use some Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. Comments? Suggestions? 2. Has anyone ever used this method (http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-adjustment.shtml)? Does it work on a newly installed system or is it just for adjusting after the initial old fashioned way of tighten, spin, tighten some more, back off etc. If I'm understanding it correctly, you just pull up the e-brake handle 3-4 clicks and tighten each adjuster until snug. Release the e-brake and you're good to go. Sounds too simple ;-) Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Apr 9 00:51:08 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 8 Apr 2008 23:51:08 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Brake Bleeding & Adjusting In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Tue, 8 Apr 2008 19:55:07 -0400 Message-ID: <27494-47FC675C-16@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Bob--- I suppose some air could enter thru the threads between a (loose) bleeder nipple and the wheel cylinder, but the fluiD trying to come out should displace any air. Of more concern might be any fluid that gets past these threads when under hydraulic pressure, even when the bleed nipple and hard line fittings are tight. If you see, or feel any wetness at these connections (and I have, with the new replacement parts), I'd go for the teflon tape. On adjusting the E-brake, "3 or 4 clicks" of the handle may not be enough to release the rear shoes completely. Five or six clicks should do it. Test for yourself, of course Also, I will have to check on VTR's "Only the rear shoe expands with the adjustment" wedge. Seems to me that both shoes move out. Even IF only one shoe moves initially, the wheel cylinder should slide into a self-centering position. I'd like to know if I'm mistaken about how this works. Never too old, etc... Dick From: Bob D. A couple of brake questions: 1. I've installed a rebuilt servo, new m/c, rebuilt calipers, new rear cylinders (0.75" bore) new Kevlar pads and shoes, new clips & springs and new braided hose. So it's all new & now in need of fluif or fluid even. And I'm going with Castrol GTLMA DOT4. I've been told that the majority of air bubbles that you see after purging the initial batch of them is from air coming in around the threads of the loose bleeder screw. As a result, it's best to use some Teflon tape on the bleeder screw threads. Comments? Suggestions? 2. Has anyone ever used this method (http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-adjustment.shtml)? Does it work on a newly installed system or is it just for adjusting after the initial old fashioned way of tighten, spin, tighten some more, back off etc. If I'm understanding it correctly, you just pull up the e-brake handle 3-4 clicks and tighten each adjuster until snug. Release the e-brake and you're good to go. Sounds too simple ;-) Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ______________________________________ From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 07:19:37 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 06:19:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 TRansmission mount brackets Message-ID: <642018.21345.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hello Y'all, I have recently aquired a new frame for my TR4A restoration (finally!), which is great news. However it is from a late model TR6 using the J-type overdrive and I have an A-type OD that came with my car. My understanding is that a non-overdrive mount bracket will bolt right up. My questions are: Is this correct? and Does anyone have a spare bracket if it does? Thanks in advance, Raymond L. Hatfield '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" Little Rock, AR Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 07:45:54 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 06:45:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 TRansmission mount brackets In-Reply-To: <642018.21345.qm@web54101.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <637147.19853.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Raymond, Uh, did you say you acquired a Late TR6 frame for a TR4A? I hope that's not correct...mostly because of the mounting up front in the engine bay. Most everything else would be fine. Anyway, if I'm wrong...just say so. The A-Type will install on a late frame using the 4-speed mount. It's a bracket the bolts to the mount that you have. You can find a pic of that setup in the Roadster Factory parts books or I guess Moss will have a pic of it as well. Cheers, Todd --- Raymond Hatfield wrote: > Hello Y'all, > > I have recently aquired a new frame for my TR4A > restoration (finally!), which > is great news. However it is from a late model TR6 > using the J-type overdrive > and I have an A-type OD that came with my car. My > understanding is that a > non-overdrive mount bracket will bolt right up. My > questions are: Is this > correct? and Does anyone have a spare bracket if it > does? > > Thanks in advance, > > > Raymond L. Hatfield > '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" > '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" > Little Rock, AR > > Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: > http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 08:48:59 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 07:48:59 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 TRansmission mount brackets In-Reply-To: <637147.19853.qm@web43135.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <74204.76326.qm@web54105.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Todd, Actually I did say I have a late TR6 frame - I did so after spending 3 years trying to find a decent TR4A frame without sucess. What mounting issues are you referring to? If it's engine-related, I've already worked those out, but I'd be grateful if you would point out any other issues I need to be aware of. Thanks for the clarification on the transmission mount, that's what I had been told, but just wanted to make sure I wasn't going to be suprised down the road. Raymond --- Todd Bermudez wrote: > Raymond, > > Uh, did you say you acquired a Late TR6 frame for a > TR4A? I hope that's not correct...mostly because of > the mounting up front in the engine bay. Most > everything else would be fine. > > Anyway, if I'm wrong...just say so. > > The A-Type will install on a late frame using the > 4-speed mount. It's a bracket the bolts to the mount > that you have. You can find a pic of that setup in > the Roadster Factory parts books or I guess Moss will > have a pic of it as well. > > Cheers, > > Todd > > --- Raymond Hatfield wrote: > > > Hello Y'all, > > > > I have recently aquired a new frame for my TR4A > > restoration (finally!), which > > is great news. However it is from a late model TR6 > > using the J-type overdrive > > and I have an A-type OD that came with my car. My > > understanding is that a > > non-overdrive mount bracket will bolt right up. My > > questions are: Is this > > correct? and Does anyone have a spare bracket if it > > does? > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > > > Raymond L. Hatfield > > '65 TR4A IRS, O/D, SAH Tuned "Chance" > > '73 Stag 4.3L, Auto, A/C, etc "Molly" > > Little Rock, AR > > > > Come visit the Michelotti TR Website: > > http://www.geocities.com/michelotti_tr > > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam > > protection around > > http://mail.yahoo.com > > _______________________________________________ > > > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > > > 6pack at autox.team.net > > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > > http://www.team.net/archive > > > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around > http://mail.yahoo.com Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 12:27:12 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 11:27:12 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 TRansmission mount brackets In-Reply-To: <711635.45670.qm@web43132.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <863063.10716.qm@web54104.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Todd, I believe I remember visiting Dave's website, which is how I knew there would be issues with the fan extention - I'm removing it and using an electric fan. This is the first I've heard of radiator mount issues, but I'll pay close attention to it, thanks for the heads-up. I plan on boxing not only the diff mounts, but both bridge pieces as well, per Mr. Williams' recomendation in his book. I'm even thinking about stealing an idea from Rat-co and filling the frame interior with foam, to aid in preventing rust. I don't ever want to experience what I did with my original frame - while sandblasting what I thought was a solid rail, the blaster cut right through the steel! =8O It was a miracle the frame hadn't folded up on me before then! Thanks again, Raymond --- Todd Bermudez wrote: > Raymond, > > A fellow TR4A owner here in Cincy(Dave Connitt) > discovered that he had a TR250 frame upon trying to > install the engine...he thought it was a TR4A frame. > I think it had to do with the fan extension, but that > was some time ago...if you've already dealt with all > that...no worries! The rest should be fine...well > maybe the radiator mount, but I suspect you've done > something with that too! If nothing else, you've done > well in selecting a late TR6 frame...just don't forget > to box in the diff mounts > > Cheers, > > Todd Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From johnehorton at yahoo.com Wed Apr 9 13:08:54 2008 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 12:08:54 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Valve adjusting Message-ID: <861210.35984.qm@web51910.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi all. We, the DCTRA have a sister club in the UK. One of their members is a real genius mechanic. When he was last here he demonstrated the English (Clikadjust and Colourtune) units. I was impressed with that the clikadjust is so easy to use and takes into account the wear in the valve train. Out club put together an order and we use them. I will have some more here. If anyone is interested? The colourtune actually shows the combustion in the cylinder and tuning to a color makes carb adjusting a snap. John Horton Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From tedtsimx at bright.net Wed Apr 9 15:25:47 2008 From: tedtsimx at bright.net (Ted Schumacher) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 17:25:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Import Carlisle Message-ID: <47FD345B.4090103@bright.net> Hello list. We will be attending Import Carlisle as a vendor. Spaces D80 & D81. Will be there Thursday afternoon, Friday and Saturday but not on Sunday. If you have any parts requests prior to the event, I can bring them out. Save money on shipping. If the items are extremely large, we need to know well in advance. I will have our usual stock of new goodies -- steel braid brake hoses, gear reduction starters, suspension components, Kevlar brakes; urethane bushings, etc. Will also have some used pieces. Please let me know what you need. Thanks for your time. Ted -- Ted Schumacher tedtsimx at bright.net http://www.tsimportedautomotive.com 108 S. Jefferson St. Pandora, Ohio, USA 45877 Fax: 419.384.3272 (24 Hrs.) Phone: 800.543.6648 (US & Canada) Tech/ Gen. Information/ Worldwide: 419.384.3022 From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Apr 9 20:53:49 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 19:53:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Stant Superstat thermostat Message-ID: <00ef01c89ab6$1ac395d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 They are twice the price. Anyone with experience using this product? Regards, Bob From Vsnively at aol.com Wed Apr 9 18:07:42 2008 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Wed, 9 Apr 2008 20:07:42 EDT Subject: [6pack] Stant Superstat thermostat Message-ID: In a message dated 4/9/2008 6:55:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, rpeglow at optonline.net writes: Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 They are twice the price. Anyone with experience using this product? Regards, Bob 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) Bob, I installed one in my '75. It does seem to hold a constant temp a little better than the cheapies. I bought it mainly because it was a much higher quality than some others. I viewed the price difference as cheap insurance against downtime in driving season. So far, so good. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides. (http://travel.aol.com/travel-guide/united-states?ncid=aoltrv00030000000016) From forzion at maine.rr.com Wed Apr 9 18:31:04 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 20:31:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Stant Superstat thermostat In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47FD5FC8.1060207@maine.rr.com> Not sure about twice the price. Stant makes their # 45358 as their "Premium Thermostat" for 180 degree opening for the TR6 (http://www.stant.com/part_locator/index.cfm). Rock Auto has them at $4.59 each http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=153&partnum=45358&a=FR153-45358 The standard TRF thermostat is their GTS104 which sells for $6.98 http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/48.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 Dave Vsnively at aol.com wrote: >In a message dated 4/9/2008 6:55:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, >rpeglow at optonline.net writes: > >Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. >They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. >http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 >They are twice the price. >Anyone with experience using this product? >Regards, >Bob >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) > > > > > >Bob, > > I installed one in my '75. It does seem to hold a constant temp a little >better than the cheapies. I bought it mainly because it was a much higher >quality than some others. I viewed the price difference as cheap insurance >against downtime in driving season. So far, so good. > >Regards, >Vic Snively >'75 TR6 w/AC From rpeglow at optonline.net Wed Apr 9 22:40:50 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Wed, 09 Apr 2008 21:40:50 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Stant Superstat thermostat References: <47FD5FC8.1060207@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <012e01c89ac5$0e551170$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Advance Auto sell the Superstat 59358 for $9.99 (the 160' is 59356), and another for $4.99. I have a standard 180' and temp gets to 3/4 idling for maybe 20 minutes. I have to contend with some occasional stop and go traffic. I'll go with the Superstat 160' and report back to the lists. Thank you. Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Friedlander" To: Cc: ; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2008 5:31 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Stant Superstat thermostat > Not sure about twice the price. Stant makes their # 45358 as their > "Premium Thermostat" for > 180 degree opening for the TR6 > (http://www.stant.com/part_locator/index.cfm). > > Rock Auto has them at $4.59 each > > http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?catalog=153&partnum=45358&a=FR153-45358 > > The standard TRF thermostat is their GTS104 which sells for $6.98 > > http://www.zeni.net/trf/TR6-250GC/48.php?s_wt=1280&s_ht=1024 > > Dave > > > Vsnively at aol.com wrote: > > >In a message dated 4/9/2008 6:55:27 PM Eastern Daylight Time, > >rpeglow at optonline.net writes: > > > >Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. > >They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. > >http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 > >They are twice the price. > >Anyone with experience using this product? > >Regards, > >Bob > >6pack at autox.team.net > >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > >http://www.team.net/archive > > > >You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) > > > > > > > > > > > >Bob, > > > > I installed one in my '75. It does seem to hold a constant temp a little > >better than the cheapies. I bought it mainly because it was a much higher > >quality than some others. I viewed the price difference as cheap insurance > >against downtime in driving season. So far, so good. > > > >Regards, > >Vic Snively > >'75 TR6 w/AC From 75teer6 at gmail.com Fri Apr 11 09:03:36 2008 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 09:03:36 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends Message-ID: <83dfea6b0804110803o73e4e0dcycc26792882b3e2fb@mail.gmail.com> This weekend is time to take the TR6 out of storage for the driving season (yesterday we got 6" of snow but it will be melted by tomorrow). During this loooong winter I have been wondering about using ethanol/gasoline blends (10%/90%) in the TR6. The engine in my TR6 runs at 9.5 compression, cam from the UK 150hp PI engine, ported & polished head, s/s valves, triple webers and an electric fuel pump, What are the Pro's and Con's of the ethanol blend (94 octane) on the engine, carbs (including seals, floats and various metal and non-metal parts), etc. and performance. The ethanol blend could also generate extensive ecological, environmental, agricultural, political, social etc discussions but I am most interested in the TR6 Mechanical discussion. Thank you, Henri 1975 TR6 1971 MGB GT From wensley_Tr at comcast.net Fri Apr 11 09:19:50 2008 From: wensley_Tr at comcast.net (Craig) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 11:19:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends References: <83dfea6b0804110803o73e4e0dcycc26792882b3e2fb@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <008601c89be7$7d18d830$0200a8c0@Desktop> >From what I here......is that you don't have a choice There is a percentage of ethanol in all of it for the summer time Craig ----- Original Message ----- From: "Henri Lefebvre" <75teer6 at gmail.com> To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:03 AM Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends > This weekend is time to take the TR6 out of storage for the driving > season (yesterday we got 6" of snow but it will be melted by > tomorrow). > > During this loooong winter I have been wondering about using > ethanol/gasoline blends (10%/90%) in the TR6. > > The engine in my TR6 runs at 9.5 compression, cam from the UK 150hp PI > engine, ported & polished head, s/s valves, triple webers and an > electric fuel pump, > > What are the Pro's and Con's of the ethanol blend (94 octane) on the > engine, carbs (including seals, floats and various metal and non-metal > parts), etc. and performance. > > The ethanol blend could also generate extensive ecological, > environmental, agricultural, political, social etc discussions but I > am most interested in the TR6 Mechanical discussion. > > Thank you, > > Henri > 1975 TR6 > 1971 MGB GT > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as wensley_tr at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Apr 11 09:33:47 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 11:33:47 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends In-Reply-To: <008601c89be7$7d18d830$0200a8c0@Desktop> References: <83dfea6b0804110803o73e4e0dcycc26792882b3e2fb@mail.gmail.com> <008601c89be7$7d18d830$0200a8c0@Desktop> Message-ID: Hi, I'll put in a tuppance on the fuel thing... The normal pump gas that you buy in the US will work fine with the 10% ethanol. You will need to pay attention to corrosion on the various aluminium bits, but don't stress about it. Just check from time-to-time. As far as long term storage, you might want to look into using someof the specialy race fuels out there. I've talked at some length with the regional sales reps for Sunoco Race fuel, and they claim that a lot of owners with cars that don't drive much (for example the concours folks with $1M cars) will store the car with the leaded race fuel. The reasoning is that the fuel is more stable and that it doesn't cause fuel system problems (like gumming up). I can't provide any data points other than to say that in my race car (I use 110 leaded for a couple of reasons, but 12:1 is one of them) I have had zero fuel system problems in 9 years. The only "problem"has been the fuel will evaporate off quite quickly (I lose about 1 - 2 gallons over the winter) on an un-sealed container, so make sure your evap. emissions gear is in good working order (or seal the tank so it cannot vent) or you will lose fuel while the car sits. Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Fri Apr 11 09:47:48 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 09:47:48 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends Message-ID: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu> The ethanol blends do 'go bad' much quicker than older fuels without it. So storage can be a problem. All of our fuel in Northern Colorado is 10% ethanol year round. Your car should run fine on it. However, if you begin having vapor lock problems, you can thank that 10% blend. Shawn >===== Original Message From Robert Lang ===== >Hi, > >I'll put in a tuppance on the fuel thing... > >The normal pump gas that you buy in the US will work fine with the 10% >ethanol. You will need to pay attention to corrosion on the various >aluminium bits, but don't stress about it. Just check from time-to-time. > >As far as long term storage, you might want to look into using someof the >specialy race fuels out there. I've talked at some length with the >regional sales reps for Sunoco Race fuel, and they claim that a lot of >owners with cars that don't drive much (for example the concours folks >with $1M cars) will store the car with the leaded race fuel. The reasoning >is that the fuel is more stable and that it doesn't cause fuel system >problems (like gumming up). > >I can't provide any data points other than to say that in my race car (I >use 110 leaded for a couple of reasons, but 12:1 is one of them) I have >had zero fuel system problems in 9 years. The only "problem"has been the >fuel will evaporate off quite quickly (I lose about 1 - 2 gallons over the >winter) on an un-sealed container, so make sure your evap. emissions gear >is in good working order (or seal the tank so it cannot vent) or you will >lose fuel while the car sits. > >Regards, >rml >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- >Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent >Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! >Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 >--------------------------------------------------------------------------- >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as sloseke at holly.colostate.edu From grant at bowtie6.com Fri Apr 11 09:53:31 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 11:53:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends In-Reply-To: References: <83dfea6b0804110803o73e4e0dcycc26792882b3e2fb@mail.gmail.com> <008601c89be7$7d18d830$0200a8c0@Desktop> Message-ID: <000001c89bec$321911b0$964b3510$@com> >> will store the car with the leaded race fuel... Just a word of caution about leaded fuel: if anyone has oxygen sensors hooked up (to run an air/fuel ratio meter or FI), you must take that into account. Oxygen sensors don't particularly like leaded fuel. What about the diaphragms and the carb floats? Ethanol is not very friendly towards rubber and/or plastic. I realize that the 10% is very small, but this could, over time affect these parts. Yes? Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From 75teer6 at gmail.com Fri Apr 11 10:20:41 2008 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 10:20:41 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Electric fuel pump Message-ID: <83dfea6b0804110920g3f1a43c4y10f055e104519680@mail.gmail.com> Stan, I am using a Facet Cylindrical electric fuel pump with a separate pressure regulator set at about 3 psi. http://www.facet-purolator.com/mcl/media/technology/hd_pdfs/Gold-Flo_sheet.pdf The fuel pump is mounted on the frame, on the driver's side below and near the fuel tank. In the engine compartment, the fuel line follows across the firewall, below the battery, to the right rear inner fender where the regulator and pressure gauge are mounted. Initially I tried a Holley fuel pump but at idle the noise was deafening. My mechanic took it back and installed it in a Morgan ! I am very pleased with the current set-up. At this time there is only one minor annoyance that I am 'chasing'. When I drive over bumps or rough pavement the engine bucks and surges and does not keep a steady pace. The carbs are mounted with rubber mounts. I have not yet detrmined if it is caused by the throttle linkage (solid), the fuel/float levels, or other mysterious cause. I will look at the float levels again, and then consider converting to a cable throttle. Henri On Fri, Apr 11, 2008 at 9:24 AM, Foster, Stan wrote: > Henri, I cant help with your ethanol question but I am building an engine that will be very similar to yours including the 3xDCOE 40's. I was wondering what you are using for a fuel pump, where you have it mounted and if you are using a fuel pressure regulator ? > > Stan > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:04 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends > > > This weekend is time to take the TR6 out of storage for the driving > season (yesterday we got 6" of snow but it will be melted by > tomorrow). > > During this loooong winter I have been wondering about using > ethanol/gasoline blends (10%/90%) in the TR6. > > The engine in my TR6 runs at 9.5 compression, cam from the UK 150hp PI > engine, ported & polished head, s/s valves, triple webers and an > electric fuel pump, > > What are the Pro's and Con's of the ethanol blend (94 octane) on the > engine, carbs (including seals, floats and various metal and non-metal > parts), etc. and performance. > > The ethanol blend could also generate extensive ecological, > environmental, agricultural, political, social etc discussions but I > am most interested in the TR6 Mechanical discussion. > > Thank you, > > Henri > 1975 TR6 > 1971 MGB GT > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Apr 11 10:22:24 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 16:22:24 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends In-Reply-To: <000001c89bec$321911b0$964b3510$@com> References: <83dfea6b0804110803o73e4e0dcycc26792882b3e2fb@mail.gmail.com><008601c89be7$7d18d830$0200a8c0@Desktop><000001c89bec$321911b0$964b3510$@com> Message-ID: <404610725-1207930948-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1891186170-@bxe149.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> This was my main concern, the rubber / plastics. I am NOT a fuel expert but I have heard that you should not run E85 or fuels with substantial ethonol content is cars not prepared for it, heck there is a warning sticker on those pumps. So I would think that the rubber in our LBCs designed and formulated 35 plus years ago would not be ethonol tolerant. If you are looking to save $$, you may be penny wise and dollar foolish considering possible repairs. On the other hand I think that one tank of 10% ethanol would not be that harmful and the alcohol may help in absorbing some of the water that condensed in your tank this winter and get some of it out in combustion. My $0.02 but your mileage may vary. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Joseph Grant" Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 11:53:31 To:"'Robert Lang'" , "'Craig'" Cc:6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends >> will store the car with the leaded race fuel... Just a word of caution about leaded fuel: if anyone has oxygen sensors hooked up (to run an air/fuel ratio meter or FI), you must take that into account. Oxygen sensors don't particularly like leaded fuel. What about the diaphragms and the carb floats? Ethanol is not very friendly towards rubber and/or plastic. I realize that the 10% is very small, but this could, over time affect these parts. Yes? Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Apr 11 10:26:28 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 12:26:28 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends In-Reply-To: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Shawn J. Loseke wrote: > The ethanol blends do 'go bad' much quicker than older fuels without it. So > storage can be a problem. All of our fuel in Northern Colorado is 10% ethanol > year round. Your car should run fine on it. However, if you begin having vapor > lock problems, you can thank that 10% blend. Just as a random data point... the local small engine repair place has lots to say about the 10% ethanol fuel. But hte takehome for me was that they pretty much say _throw out_ fuel that is older than a month because "it'll be bad". They don't go on to say exactly _how_ to accomplish this, but they get a LOT of work fixing fuel system problems on small engines because of the reformulated fuel. So, instead of having a 5 gallon container of fuel for the various engines I use to maintain my "estate", I'm buying a gallon at a time and sharing. This sucks for 2 strokes, but I'm down to replacing fuel filters every 10 hours instead of every hour or so with the chainsaw. Plus I keep about 10 spare fuel filters in the garage, "just in case". regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Apr 11 10:35:06 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 12:35:06 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends In-Reply-To: <000001c89bec$321911b0$964b3510$@com> References: <83dfea6b0804110803o73e4e0dcycc26792882b3e2fb@mail.gmail.com> <008601c89be7$7d18d830$0200a8c0@Desktop> <000001c89bec$321911b0$964b3510$@com> Message-ID: On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Joseph Grant wrote: >>> will store the car with the leaded race fuel... > > Just a word of caution about leaded fuel: if anyone has oxygen sensors > hooked up (to run an air/fuel ratio meter or FI), you must take that into > account. Oxygen sensors don't particularly like leaded fuel. I appreciate the comment, however, we need to establish context here. I would totally NOT recommend leaded racing fuel for a modern car with computerized fuel management for that very reason. Of course, I _thought_ we were talking about TR6's. Silly me and mea culpa for the oversite. :-) It's also worth pointing out that there are other issues surrounding the use of alternative fuels such as road taxes and stuff like that. Most are probably moot when used for storing your car (which was the point I was trying to make in the previous post). > What about the diaphragms and the carb floats? Ethanol is not very friendly > towards rubber and/or plastic. I realize that the 10% is very small, but > this could, over time affect these parts. Yes? Carry spares. That's my solution. I've done roadside replacements of the diaphragms in the past (usually after a backfire!). The floats thing is a def. problem. There is some activity in other forums looking into making replacement floats that are impervious to the current fuel "brew". We'll see how this pans out. I won't get on the soap box on the issue, but this particular part (carb floats) is an area where you don't want to go with parts based on price, you want to go on functionality (and proper materials). --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Fri Apr 11 10:53:52 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 10:53:52 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends Message-ID: <47FFD6F9@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From lfm614 at aol.com ===== >This was my main concern, the rubber / plastics. I am NOT a fuel expert but I have heard that you should not run E85 or fuels with substantial ethonol content is cars not prepared for it, heck there is a warning sticker on those pumps. So I would think that the rubber in our LBCs designed and formulated 35 plus years ago would not be ethonol tolerant. > >If you are looking to save $$, you may be penny wise and dollar foolish considering possible repairs. On the other hand I think that one tank of 10% ethanol would not be that harmful and the alcohol may help in absorbing some of the water that condensed in your tank this winter and get some of it out in combustion. > >My $0.02 but your mileage may vary. > > >Lou Right E85 is not good for cars not specifically set up for it. The possibility of just one tank of the 10% blend is getting lower. More and more places are getting nothing but the 10% blend. Wouldn't doubt if that would soon be the only stuff available at your local stations. Like I said before, we don't get an ehtanol or no ethanol choice here anymore. We only get the 10% blend, in all octane ratings. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Apr 11 14:27:54 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 13:27:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,stabilizer References: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <004701c89c12$86169370$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Can the ethanol blends be "fixed" to last longer in storage containers with fuel stabilizer? Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Lang" To: "Shawn J. Loseke" Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Craig" Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends > On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Shawn J. Loseke wrote: > > > The ethanol blends do 'go bad' much quicker than older fuels without it. So > > storage can be a problem. All of our fuel in Northern Colorado is 10% ethanol > > year round. Your car should run fine on it. However, if you begin having vapor > > lock problems, you can thank that 10% blend. > > Just as a random data point... the local small engine repair place has > lots to say about the 10% ethanol fuel. But hte takehome for me was that > they pretty much say _throw out_ fuel that is older than a month because > "it'll be bad". > > They don't go on to say exactly _how_ to accomplish this, but they get a > LOT of work fixing fuel system problems on small engines because of the > reformulated fuel. > > So, instead of having a 5 gallon container of fuel for the various engines > I use to maintain my "estate", I'm buying a gallon at a time and sharing. > This sucks for 2 strokes, but I'm down to replacing fuel filters every 10 > hours instead of every hour or so with the chainsaw. Plus I keep about 10 > spare fuel filters in the garage, "just in case". > > regards, > rml > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - > Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent > Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! > Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Apr 11 12:17:07 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 14:17:07 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,stabilizer Message-ID: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> Interesting.... Look at the Wikipedia page for E85 at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85 It says , in part: "Although proponents of E85 claim significant environmental benefits, research is showing that the growing and harvesting of corn in the US for use in E85 fuel is most likely damaging the environment and contributing to global warming." Outrageous! I think the tree-huggers are gonna kill us!!! Dave ---- Bob wrote: > Can the ethanol blends be "fixed" to last longer in storage containers with > fuel stabilizer? > Regards, > Bob > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robert Lang" > To: "Shawn J. Loseke" > Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Craig" > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 9:26 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends > > > > On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Shawn J. Loseke wrote: > > > > > The ethanol blends do 'go bad' much quicker than older fuels without it. > So > > > storage can be a problem. All of our fuel in Northern Colorado is 10% > ethanol > > > year round. Your car should run fine on it. However, if you begin having > vapor > > > lock problems, you can thank that 10% blend. > > > > Just as a random data point... the local small engine repair place has > > lots to say about the 10% ethanol fuel. But hte takehome for me was that > > they pretty much say _throw out_ fuel that is older than a month because > > "it'll be bad". > > > > They don't go on to say exactly _how_ to accomplish this, but they get a > > LOT of work fixing fuel system problems on small engines because of the > > reformulated fuel. > > > > So, instead of having a 5 gallon container of fuel for the various engines > > I use to maintain my "estate", I'm buying a gallon at a time and sharing. > > This sucks for 2 strokes, but I'm down to replacing fuel filters every 10 > > hours instead of every hour or so with the chainsaw. Plus I keep about 10 > > spare fuel filters in the garage, "just in case". > > > > regards, > > rml > > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- > - > > Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent > > Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! > > Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 From pete_kronberg at yahoo.com Fri Apr 11 12:21:21 2008 From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com (Pete Kronberg) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 11:21:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Other 10% ethanol concerns Message-ID: <603918.58141.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Folks, OK, so unleaded AND 10% ethanol. In addition to carb floats and diaphragms...should I be concerned w/ stock valve seats and guides? I remember a debate that raged several years ago about not necessarily requiring valve seat upgrades for unleaded, but at the time I don't think the advice was in the context of 10% ethanol formulations. I'd rather spend the money now, than incur engine damage later. Thanks, Pete From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Fri Apr 11 12:38:21 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 14:38:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Other 10% ethanol concerns References: <603918.58141.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <020c01c89c03$3809a410$c7fba8c0@hp> Well if you want to spend money now,,,,why not start burning aviation 100LL it has a long shelf life is real 100 octane has more than enough lead for the TR-6 and no road taxes...or ethanol.... Last I heard it was about $4.55 a gallon... When I stored my TR-6 at the airport that was all I would burn in her.... Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Pete Kronberg To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 2:21 PM Subject: [6pack] Other 10% ethanol concerns Folks, OK, so unleaded AND 10% ethanol. In addition to carb floats and diaphragms...should I be concerned w/ stock valve seats and guides? I remember a debate that raged several years ago about not necessarily requiring valve seat upgrades for unleaded, but at the time I don't think the advice was in the context of 10% ethanol formulations. I'd rather spend the money now, than incur engine damage later. Thanks, Pete _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.12/1373 - Release Date: 4/11/2008 9:17 AM From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Apr 11 13:39:24 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 15:39:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Other 10% ethanol concerns In-Reply-To: <603918.58141.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <603918.58141.qm@web30404.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Pete Kronberg wrote: > Folks, > > OK, so unleaded AND 10% ethanol. In addition to carb > floats and diaphragms...should I be concerned w/ stock > valve seats and guides? NNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO > I remember a debate that raged several years ago about > not necessarily requiring valve seat upgrades for > unleaded, but at the time I don't think the advice was > in the context of 10% ethanol formulations. If there was a debate more than a couple of years ago, it most certainly would not have included ethanol. The debate was "do I need lead". When the US went to unleaded-only formulas for street driven cars in the late-80s, there was a debate (the answer was it doesn't matter) and when the UK went with unleaded in the late 90's / early 2000's, the answer is still "it doesn't matter". > I'd rather spend the money now, than incur engine > damage later. Define engine damage. If damage is reduced compression because the valve seat has receeded and is not sealing properly, then you MAY see "damage" eventually. WHich can be easily remedied by installing new seats. Contrast that to installing hardened seats which costs $$$. And they can still erode (too much seat pressure, lean conditions, ignition timing probs...) You still have to deal with the seats. But if a seat falls out (it happens!), then you get to whack a valve seat with a piston. Ouch! It's not like your motor is going to grenade is you skip putting in hardened seats... what is more likely is that the performance will degrade and eventually you'll have to deal. I'd save the money that you would have spent on installing the seat and put it in a nest egg of some sort, and when it comes time, you'll have $25k for that race motor you've always wanted. Oh wait, that's me talking... you'll have plenty of $$$ to do the job right _when the work is needed_. > Thanks, > Pete regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Fri Apr 11 14:07:40 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 14:07:40 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Other 10% ethanol concerns Message-ID: <4801B637@webmail.colostate.edu> It can have a nice bouquet as well. The fuel saver additives tend to really stink. Shawn >===== Original Message From "Robert McBride" ===== >Well if you want to spend money now,,,,why not start burning aviation 100LL it >has a long shelf life is real 100 octane has more than enough lead for the >TR-6 and no road taxes...or ethanol.... Last I heard it was about $4.55 a >gallon... When I stored my TR-6 at the airport that was all I would burn in >her.... Bob > ----- Original Message ----- > From: Pete Kronberg > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 2:21 PM > Subject: [6pack] Other 10% ethanol concerns > > > Folks, > > OK, so unleaded AND 10% ethanol. In addition to carb > floats and diaphragms...should I be concerned w/ stock > valve seats and guides? > I remember a debate that raged several years ago about > not necessarily requiring valve seat upgrades for > unleaded, but at the time I don't think the advice was > in the context of 10% ethanol formulations. > > I'd rather spend the money now, than incur engine > damage later. > > Thanks, > Pete > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.12/1373 - Release Date: 4/11/2008 >9:17 AM >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as sloseke at holly.colostate.edu From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Apr 11 14:21:33 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 13:21:33 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Other 10% ethanol concerns In-Reply-To: Pete Kronberg 's message of Fri, 11 Apr 2008 11:21:21 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <13526-47FFC84D-3148@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> List---I don't think a fuel blend containing 10% ethanol would cause any particular problems with the TR6. The reduced power from such a blend would probably reduce mileage, and maybe require tweaking the carbs to a richer mixture, IF it is already on the borderline with "pure" gas. There is a slight benefit with the ethanol because of it's resistance to detonation. Unless the octane of the fuel was reduced at the refinery, knowing that the ethanol woul bring it back up again. Lots of unknowns here. I doubt that the TR6 would run with an E85 blend, without major changes in the carb jetting. As an aside, when playing around with water-alcohol injection some years ago, I found what was already known by many...that alcohol would indeed absorb water, but soon as gas was introduced to the blend, the water falls out of suspension. Having (too much) water enter the engine only slows it down, so long as there is enough gas to sustain combustion. As far as the valve seat erosion with anything other than leaded fuel, the same checks apply. Measure the valve lash from time to time, to get comfortable with the rate of recession, (if any). If the lash decreases, rather than the usual increases from valve train wear, then seat recession is taking place. If any seat recession in my engine is taking place, it is at a slower rate than normal lash increase. I do not worry about it. Dick From: pete_kronberg at yahoo.com(Pete Kronberg) Folks, OK, so unleaded AND 10% ethanol. In addition to carb floats and diaphragms...should I be concerned w/ stock valve seats and guides? I remember a debate that raged several years ago about not necessarily requiring valve seat upgrades for unleaded, but at the time I don't think the advice was in the context of 10% ethanol formulations. I'd rather spend the money now, than incur engine damage later. Thanks, Pete ______________________________________ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Fri Apr 11 14:34:49 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 13:34:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,stabilizer In-Reply-To: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> References: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> Message-ID: Dave. Just to add "fuel to the fire"... hah-hah-hah! I crack myself up sometimes. Wheeee..... Now where was I? Oh yeah... Depending on whose study you believe, more energy is consumed to make a gallon of ethanol than is recovered through burning it. (Petroleum, fertilizers, processing energy, etc). Bottom line, JUST SAY NO!!! Unfortunately, not an option where I live. The Oregon legislature in their infinite wisdom has decreed that all gas in the state use 10% Ethanol. I wish I could feed my TR6 the good stuff, 100% petroleum as nature intended (snicker). But noooo... We must be green. I should also mention that there is a growing body of evidence that says there is no net environmental benefit. Even the EPA is agreeing that it has been a boondoggle. Modern cars with O2 sensors simply fatten up the mixture and so negate any benefit of extra oxygen in the fuel. The only remaining reason for us to cling to this waste of time, money, and energy is as a fat subsidy to the corn farmers and as a bit of political posturing to placate the Sierra Club. I would not mind it so much, except my beloved TR risks becoming a dead bug on the windshield of the SUV that is our Government. Splat. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of forzion at maine.rr.com Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 11:17 AM To: Bob Cc: 6pack; Craig Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,stabilizer Interesting.... Look at the Wikipedia page for E85 at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/E85 It says , in part: "Although proponents of E85 claim significant environmental benefits, research is showing that the growing and harvesting of corn in the US for use in E85 fuel is most likely damaging the environment and contributing to global warming." Outrageous! I think the tree-huggers are gonna kill us!!! Dave From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Fri Apr 11 15:19:29 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 14:19:29 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] 10% ethanol discussion Message-ID: <263636.41096.qm@web51411.mail.re2.yahoo.com> FWIW (probably not much) I have been trying to avoid gasoline with even10% ethanol. Here in Florida there are still a few stations, Mobil comes to mind, that don't have the 10% ethanol label on them. I have noticed that both Hess (the nearest station) and Shell now have 10% ethanol. As several people have mentioned, I am concerned about the possibility of deteriorating rubber and plastic in the carbs, the plastic float on the fuel gauge sending unit as well as the rubber fuel supply line I added during my TBI conversion. I am also concerned that the alcohol in the gasoline will attract water while in the tank (hydro-something or other), especially during long storage periods. Mike Lunsford 1970 TR 6 with new brass float on the fuel gauge Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com From jndavis at ball.com Fri Apr 11 15:28:06 2008 From: jndavis at ball.com (Davis, James N) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 15:28:06 -0600 Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light References: Message-ID: Hey guy's, I have a silly question: Why is the alternator indicator light labeled "IGN"? I am currently converting the original Lucas alternator to a higher output Ford Fiesta one. Jim Davis 1974 TR6 This message and any enclosures are intended only for the addressee. Please notify the sender by email if you are not the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you may not use, copy, disclose, or distribute this message or its contents or enclosures to any other person and any such actions may be unlawful. Ball reserves the right to monitor and review all messages and enclosures sent to or from this email address. From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Fri Apr 11 15:37:22 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 17:37:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light References: Message-ID: <029601c89c1c$3a4ea8b0$c7fba8c0@hp> That's the Brits way of telling you that you left the key turned on but the engine isn't running??? ----- Original Message ----- From: Davis, James N To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:28 PM Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light Hey guy's, I have a silly question: Why is the alternator indicator light labeled "IGN"? I am currently converting the original Lucas alternator to a higher output Ford Fiesta one. Jim Davis 1974 TR6 This message and any enclosures are intended only for the addressee. Please notify the sender by email if you are not the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you may not use, copy, disclose, or distribute this message or its contents or enclosures to any other person and any such actions may be unlawful. Ball reserves the right to monitor and review all messages and enclosures sent to or from this email address. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.12/1373 - Release Date: 4/11/2008 9:17 AM From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Fri Apr 11 16:28:29 2008 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 18:28:29 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,stabilizer Message-ID: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Vance Every study by serious scientific analysts confirms that cultivating crops to produce ethanol is the dumb. National Academy of Sciences a couple years ago concluded that both ethanol from corn and even biodiesel from soybeans was not a good idea, given the decline of the water table, the reduction in cultivatable land for food, the cost to produce nitrogen fertilizer (uses lots of natural gas), and now the clearing of the rain forests along the Amazon in Brazil to produce sugar cane for ethanol. So placating the Sierra Club...I think not. And you are quite right, it has less beneficial effect on atomospheric pollution than MTBE that it replaced. I won't broach politics here, but the causes for this debacle are pretty obvious, and the only green involved is the color of money. Jerry Message: 8 Date: Fri, 11 Apr 2008 13:34:49 -0700 From: "Navarrette, Vance" Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,stabilizer To: , "Bob" Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>, Craig Message-ID: Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Dave. Just to add "fuel to the fire"... hah-hah-hah! I crack myself up sometimes. Wheeee..... Now where was I? Oh yeah... Depending on whose study you believe, more energy is consumed to make a gallon of ethanol than is recovered through burning it. (Petroleum, fertilizers, processing energy, etc). Bottom line, JUST SAY NO!!! Unfortunately, not an option where I live. The Oregon legislature in their infinite wisdom has decreed that all gas in the state use 10% Ethanol. I wish I could feed my TR6 the good stuff, 100% petroleum as nature intended (snicker). But noooo... We must be green. I should also mention that there is a growing body of evidence that says there is no net environmental benefit. Even the EPA is agreeing that it has been a boondoggle. Modern cars with O2 sensors simply fatten up the mixture and so negate any benefit of extra oxygen in the fuel. The only remaining reason for us to cling to this waste of time, money, and energy is as a fat subsidy to the corn farmers and as a bit of political posturing to placate the Sierra Club. I would not mind it so much, except my beloved TR risks becoming a dead bug on the windshield of the SUV that is our Government. Splat. Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast From jndavis at ball.com Sat Apr 12 07:29:26 2008 From: jndavis at ball.com (Davis, James N) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 07:29:26 -0600 Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light References: <000d01c89c2e$aa098b40$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: Ed, I guess I don't really see the "ignition" part of the equation. Doesn't this light go on if there is a voltage imbalance between the alternator and the battery? Maybe I am missing something. . . Thanks for the response. Jim Davis 1974 TR6 ________________________________ From: Ed Bratt [mailto:bratt at sasktel.net] Sent: Fri 4/11/2008 5:49 PM To: Davis, James N Subject: Re: [6pack] "IGN" light Jim: Probably becuse is not the "alternator indicator light", it is the "IGNition indicator light". Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Davis, James N" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 3:28 PM Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light > Hey guy's, > > I have a silly question: Why is the alternator indicator light labeled > "IGN"? > > I am currently converting the original Lucas alternator to a higher output > Ford Fiesta one. > > > Jim Davis > > 1974 TR6 > > > > > > This message and any enclosures are intended only for the addressee. > Please > notify the sender by email if you are not the intended recipient. If you > are > not the intended recipient, you may not use, copy, disclose, or distribute > this > message or its contents or enclosures to any other person and any such > actions > may be unlawful. Ball reserves the right to monitor and review all > messages > and enclosures sent to or from this email address. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.12/1373 - Release Date: > 4/11/2008 9:17 AM > > This message and any enclosures are intended only for the addressee. Please notify the sender by email if you are not the intended recipient. If you are not the intended recipient, you may not use, copy, disclose, or distribute this message or its contents or enclosures to any other person and any such actions may be unlawful. Ball reserves the right to monitor and review all messages and enclosures sent to or from this email address. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Sat Apr 12 08:51:28 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 10:51:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light References: <000d01c89c2e$aa098b40$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <012c01c89cac$b33322c0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> In the UK, all the cars I owned (from 1951 vintage on) has an ignition light indicating that the engine could be started (on my early Fords there was often a red IGN, a green OIL, as well as a blue MAIN beam lens) ... with the engine stopped, the IGN light indicated that power was being fed through to the ignition circuit (the points and - contact breakers -coil circuit, and if left in that condition, you would run the battery down, and also could have a very warm coil). The IGN light also served as a warning that the charging circuit was faulty or indicate that the fan belt had departed: when showing faults (very briefly): cars with dynamos (generators) it would glow sometime quite brightly at low RPMs, and with an alternator, just glow all the time. I should add there is an art to interpreting the various indications of the IGN light that can make trouble shooting much easier to undertake ..... My guess is the terminology associated with the IGN light can be traced to Joe Lucas, the Prince of Darkness! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Davis, James N" To: "Ed Bratt" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 9:29 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] "IGN" light > Ed, > > I guess I don't really see the "ignition" part of the equation. Doesn't > this > light go on if there is a voltage imbalance between the alternator and the > battery? Maybe I am missing something. . . > > Thanks for the response. > > Jim Davis > 1974 TR6 > > ________________________________ From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 12 17:07:34 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 16:07:34 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,small engines References: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <003001c89cf1$fe2443a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Amazing what you can learn from Triumph Lists. Thanks Bob Lang for mentioning small engine problems with OLD 'ethanol' mix gasoline. This year the mower would not start, the fuel was at least a year old. Bad fuel was the problem. Never happened before. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Lang" To: "Shawn J. Loseke" Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "Craig" Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 9:26 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends > On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Shawn J. Loseke wrote: > > > The ethanol blends do 'go bad' much quicker than older fuels without it. So > > storage can be a problem. All of our fuel in Northern Colorado is 10% ethanol > > year round. Your car should run fine on it. However, if you begin having vapor > > lock problems, you can thank that 10% blend. > > Just as a random data point... the local small engine repair place has > lots to say about the 10% ethanol fuel. But hte takehome for me was that > they pretty much say _throw out_ fuel that is older than a month because > "it'll be bad". > > They don't go on to say exactly _how_ to accomplish this, but they get a > LOT of work fixing fuel system problems on small engines because of the > reformulated fuel. > > So, instead of having a 5 gallon container of fuel for the various engines > I use to maintain my "estate", I'm buying a gallon at a time and sharing. > This sucks for 2 strokes, but I'm down to replacing fuel filters every 10 > hours instead of every hour or so with the chainsaw. Plus I keep about 10 > spare fuel filters in the garage, "just in case". > > regards, > rml > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - > Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent > Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! > Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 > -------------------------------------------------------------------------- - > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 12 17:26:17 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 16:26:17 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat, pot test References: <00ef01c89ab6$1ac395d0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <20080410002409.DJDD17353.aarprv04.charter.net@nocando-caf700e.charter.net> Message-ID: <007b01c89cf4$9ba5d970$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I put a standard and a Superstat 160 degree thermostat (both new Stant) in a pot and heated the water while watching a thermometer. They seemed to start opening at the same time and opened the same amount. The Superstat is a much heavier unit and the disk portion is stainless steel. Stant says the Superstat regulates better, and if it fails, it will fail open. To me that's worth he extra price, it's in the car for the summer. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Jeff Scarbrough" To: "Bob" ; ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 09, 2008 5:24 PM Subject: Re: [TR] Stant Superstat thermostat > At 10:53 PM 4/9/2008, Bob wrote: > > >Stant makes a higher quality thermostat called the Superstat. > >They say it opens and closes quicker to maintain a more even temperature. > >http://www.stant.com/brochure.cfm?brochure=205&location_id=168 > >They are twice the price. > >Anyone with experience using this product? > > No, but I do know something about thermodynamics... > > I cannot imagine that the mass of water and the mass of the engine > are such that the difference of a few seconds in the changing of a > thermostat would have any noticeable effect on the performance of the > engine. At best, it might dampen the hysteresis somewhat, but I > can't see how that's needed in an otherwise normal engine cooling system. > > > > > Jeff Scarbrough 75 TR6 x 1, 76 1500 x 2, 78 1500 x 1, 80 1500 x 0.5 > http://www.fishplate.org/vehicles/spitfire/ > Athens, Georgia #354 > > > -- > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.10/1366 - Release Date: 4/8/2008 5:03 PM From gary.fluke at verizon.net Sat Apr 12 16:34:07 2008 From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 15:34:07 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Oil additive Message-ID: <000801c89ced$52163b30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> In order to prevent my 6's cam from going flat, I went to purchase GM's EOS2DDP oil additive from a local Chevy dealer. They have what is labeled EOS Assembly Lube, without the "2DDP" suffix. Is that the same thing, or will it perform the same function? Gary '73 From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Sat Apr 12 17:20:45 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:20:45 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,small engines References: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu> <003001c89cf1$fe2443a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <013a01c89cf3$d63a2560$c7fba8c0@hp> I have had good luck using SeaFoam to clean out the carbs on my many small engines,,, I even was able to get a old lawn mower that hasn't run in ten years going this year by putting some right into the gas tank before adding any gas and letting it sit over night....then a shot of starting fluid into the carb and she started right up... Vapor lock has become my biggest problem of late with my boat,,, It will run fine for 45 minutes and then stops.. You then have to sit there with the engine cover open for 45 minutes before it will start up again,,, repeat as needed.... Funny it's hard to get anyone to go boating with me how... Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob To: Robert Lang ; Shawn J. Loseke Cc: 6pack ; Craig Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 7:07 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,small engines Amazing what you can learn from Triumph Lists. Thanks Bob Lang for mentioning small engine problems with OLD 'ethanol' mix gasoline. This year the mower would not start, the fuel was at least a year old. Bad fuel was the problem. Never happened before. Regards, Bob > On Fri, 11 Apr 2008, Shawn J. Loseke wrote: > > > The ethanol blends do 'go bad' much quicker than older fuels without it. So > > storage can be a problem. All of our fuel in Northern Colorado is 10% ethanol > > year round. Your car should run fine on it. However, if you begin having vapor > > lock problems, you can thank that 10% blend. > > Just as a random data point... the local small engine repair place has > lots to say about the 10% ethanol fuel. But hte takehome for me was that > they pretty much say _throw out_ fuel that is older than a month because > "it'll be bad". > > They don't go on to say exactly _how_ to accomplish this, but they get a > LOT of work fixing fuel system problems on small engines because of the > reformulated fuel. > > So, instead of having a 5 gallon container of fuel for the various engines > I use to maintain my "estate", I'm buying a gallon at a time and sharing. > This sucks for 2 strokes, but I'm down to replacing fuel filters every 10 > hours instead of every hour or so with the chainsaw. Plus I keep about 10 > spare fuel filters in the garage, "just in case". > > regards, > rml From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Apr 12 17:35:09 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:35:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,small engines In-Reply-To: <013a01c89cf3$d63a2560$c7fba8c0@hp> References: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu><003001c89cf1$fe2443a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <013a01c89cf3$d63a2560$c7fba8c0@hp> Message-ID: <000001c89cf5$daf5edd0$6601a8c0@Robert> Every year I put a 6 oz bottle of Stabil in the Gas tank and fill it up, run it for a mile or two before putting the car away for the winter. Every year it starts up with no issues. The lawn tractor, the snow blower and the trimmer, weed wacker and leaf blower the same. Never had an issue with not starting. During the driving season, I add a lead substitute additive in my TR3A. 1 0z. for every 11 gallons of gas. No issues. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From jimmble at roadrunner.com Sat Apr 12 18:31:13 2008 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 20:31:13 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,small engines In-Reply-To: <000001c89cf5$daf5edd0$6601a8c0@Robert> References: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu><003001c89cf1$fe2443a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <013a01c89cf3$d63a2560$c7fba8c0@hp> <000001c89cf5$daf5edd0$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <48015451.3020002@roadrunner.com> Ditto what Robert says. Robert Liam Gannon wrote: > Every year I put a 6 oz bottle of Stabil in the Gas tank and fill it up, run > it for a mile or two before putting the car away for the winter. Every year > it starts up with no issues. The lawn tractor, the snow blower and the > trimmer, weed wacker and leaf blower the same. Never had an issue with not > starting. During the driving season, I add a lead substitute additive in my > TR3A. 1 0z. for every 11 gallons of gas. No issues. > > Robert L. Gannon > http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From bratt at sasktel.net Sat Apr 12 18:41:43 2008 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 18:41:43 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Oil additive References: <000801c89ced$52163b30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Message-ID: <004501c89cff$2531bfb0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Gary: Sounds to me like it is the real product with the effective ingredients removed. Did it have "New Improved" or "as seen on TV" on the label? Ed Bratt Regina,Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Fluke" To: "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 4:34 PM Subject: [6pack] Oil additive > In order to prevent my 6's cam from going flat, I went to purchase GM's > EOS2DDP oil additive from a local Chevy dealer. They have what is labeled > EOS > Assembly Lube, without the "2DDP" suffix. Is that the same thing, or will > it > perform the same function? > > > Gary > '73 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.12/1374 - Release Date: > 4/11/2008 4:59 PM From gary.fluke at verizon.net Sat Apr 12 20:47:07 2008 From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke) Date: Sat, 12 Apr 2008 19:47:07 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Oil additive References: <000801c89ced$52163b30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> <004501c89cff$2531bfb0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <000a01c89d10$aa9331f0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Ed, I don't recall seeing "New Improved" or "as seen on TV" on the label. Gary '73 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Ed Bratt" To: "Gary Fluke" ; "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 5:41 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil additive > Gary: > > Sounds to me like it is the real product with the effective ingredients > removed. > > Did it have "New Improved" or "as seen on TV" on the label? > > Ed Bratt > Regina,Saskatchewan > > 1976 TR6 > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Gary Fluke" > To: "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 4:34 PM > Subject: [6pack] Oil additive > > >> In order to prevent my 6's cam from going flat, I went to purchase GM's >> EOS2DDP oil additive from a local Chevy dealer. They have what is >> labeled EOS >> Assembly Lube, without the "2DDP" suffix. Is that the same thing, or >> will it >> perform the same function? >> >> >> Gary >> '73 From slbridge at hotmail.com Sun Apr 13 08:15:17 2008 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 14:15:17 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,small engines In-Reply-To: <013a01c89cf3$d63a2560$c7fba8c0@hp> References: <4800DC0D@webmail.colostate.edu> <003001c89cf1$fe2443a0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <013a01c89cf3$d63a2560$c7fba8c0@hp> Message-ID: Though not a chemical engineer, it was explained to me that Aviation Fuel is refined to a higher standard as airplanes set longer without use (like LBC's) and it is the sulphur and other impurities in road fuel that contribute to engine wear and shellac formation. Bearing failure and plugged fuel lines are not good up in the air. I worked in a refinery and was told in the early 90's that since they could no longer sell Benzene, Tolulene and other solvents, they would begin mixing them in the gas for retail use. I noticed that was the same time the Benzene storage tanks were labeled "Carcinogenic" and warning labels went on retail pumps. "do not breathe fumes". The shelf life was dramatically reduced to 3 months or less, I was told , because of these additives. That is why, when the oil barons bloated gas prices and we suddenly cut back our usage, the price dropped temporarily. They had to move it as the gas spoils in their tanks just as it does in ours. _________________________________________________________________ Pack up or back upuse SkyDrive to transfer files or keep extra copies. Learn how. hthttp://www.windowslive.com/skydrive/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh _skydrive_packup_042008 From john70350 at msn.com Sun Apr 13 14:13:43 2008 From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 20:13:43 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Trials accomodations Message-ID: Hi All, A member of our local club who is considering attending TRials this year was doing some research online regarding accommodations in Townsend and came across some reviews. Here is what he found. http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g55383-d98298-Reviews-Best_Western_Va lley_View_Lodge-Townsend_Tennessee.html#REVIEWS John Johnson Columbus, Ohio _________________________________________________________________ Get in touch in an instant. Get Windows Live Messenger now. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ getintouch_042008 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 13 16:52:47 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 17:52:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Trials accomodations References: Message-ID: <001d01c89db9$1f7c4e90$8115a8c0@garage.local> can we have a rebuttal from the club in Tennessee that set this up, please? ----- Original Message ----- From: "John Johnson" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 3:13 PM Subject: [6pack] Trials accomodations > Hi All, > A member of our local club who is considering > attending TRials this year was doing some research online regarding > accommodations in Townsend and came across some reviews. Here is what he > found. > http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g55383-d98298-Reviews-Best_Western_Va > lley_View_Lodge-Townsend_Tennessee.html#REVIEWS From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Apr 13 17:33:00 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 19:33:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 Message-ID: <002a01c89dbe$b6931a20$7218b318@alan> I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. And then it pulls the rubber cap off. I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out whats wrong. Is it me or the slave cylinder???? Thanks, Al Salvatore From jpzysman at bellsouth.net Sun Apr 13 18:31:16 2008 From: jpzysman at bellsouth.net (Joel Zysman) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 20:31:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] 1971 TR6 For Sale Message-ID: <000601c89dc6$daca5e00$6501a8c0@garou> Hi fellow 6-pack listers. Well a sad day it is for me. I am selling my 1971 TR6 project car. My wife and I are moving to a house with a much smaller garage so the 6 has to go. This is a project car that I believe I have all the parts for with the exception of the interior (missing all carpeting). The rolling chassis is almost complete but with the move and all, I am not going to be able to do the little work needed to make it totally complete. The chassis has new brake lines (pre-bent from TRF), new springs, new uprated bushings, new clutch (etc) and is on a very nicely finished frame (engine runs BTW). The body is an utter disaster. I think there are several salvageable pieces, but just about everything will require repairs due to rust. The only exception is the floor pans which have already been redone. There are a ton of parts to go with the vehicle including an extra set of Weber Down drafts carbs. Ive never written an advertisement for a car before, so I am probably missing a lot here. The car (and pieces) are located in West Palm Beach County Florida. I am asking $1500 (or best offer) for everything. Drop me an email if interested. Thanks, Joel -- Joel P Zysman jpzysman at bellsouth.net No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: 4/12/2008 11:32 AM From rgperry at earthlink.net Sun Apr 13 18:43:33 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 19:43:33 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 Message-ID: <1568207.1208133813656.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Al, first thought: Check the arrangement of the cylinder and mounting plate. The clutch slave cylinder slides into the rear (transmission side) of the mounting plate. The clutch mounting plate attaches to the front of the engine plate (engine side). second thought: Make sure the bleeder screw is on top not the bottom. third thought: The push rod fork attaches to the middle hole in the clutch shaft arm. The slave cylinder piston/ clutch shaft arm only moves 1/2 inch when working properly. fourth thought: If the orientation is correct, then the clutch fork pin is probably broken allowing the clutch fork to move. Regards, Greg Perry From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Apr 13 18:58:31 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 20:58:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 References: <1568207.1208133813656.JavaMail.root@elwamui-lapwing.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Message-ID: <004b01c89dca$a8843390$7218b318@alan> Problem started a few days ago, coincided with loss of clutch fluid, then clutch was grabbing near the floor. Then no clutch at all, thats what prompted the rebuilds. All those bases are covered. I'll try replacing the slave cylinder tomorrow. The clutch shaft was replaced in the clutch rebuild, I wonder if the lever is welded on, off a few degrees. Al ----- Original Message ----- Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 8:43 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 > Al, > > first thought: Check the arrangement of the cylinder and mounting plate. > The clutch slave cylinder slides into the rear (transmission side) of the > mounting plate. The clutch mounting plate attaches to the front of the > engine plate (engine side). > 1. Its mounted correctly. > second thought: Make sure the bleeder screw is on top not the bottom. 2. Bleeders on top. > > third thought: The push rod fork attaches to the middle hole in the clutch > shaft arm. The slave cylinder piston/ clutch shaft arm only moves 1/2 inch > when working properly. 3. Yep, 2nd hole. > > fourth thought: If the orientation is correct, then the clutch fork pin > is probably broken allowing the clutch fork to move. > 4. All new components were installed a few weeks ago, when new clutch was put in. > Regards, Greg Perry > > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: > 4/12/2008 11:32 AM From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Apr 13 20:10:57 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 02:10:57 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Head studs Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814868@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Hi fellow 6packers. I wonder, do head studs need to be torqued to a specific lb/ft into the block before installing the head or do they need to be merely tightened until all of the thread has been consumed by the block and the stud is no longer willing to rotate ? Stan From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 13 21:22:29 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:22:29 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TTA Stag update, needs somebody parts Message-ID: <4802CDF5.3070105@tscusa.org> Hello All, I just got a call this evening from the StagMeister heading up the TTA Stag restoration teams with some very encouraging update news! The undercarriage is now void of all undercoating, much of the paint has been stripped, and the body metal spots are being repaired. Within the next three weekends, the teams want to have this chassis in primer ready for spray, engine bay and underside chassis painted and coated. It appears the front right 1/4 was hit once a while back and the repair was all bondo slathered into holes drilled to hold the bondo in place. Apparently quite the mess hidden under a white respray, and not really something that can be banged out and welded up. That was the only bad news, everything else looks great or has already been patched with new metal. So, the project needs either a good solid right 1/4 panel and a driver side door skin to get this car ready for sanding and primer. Anyone got something laying around we can get quick access to? We would like to get something in the mail this week to keep up with this aggressive group of workers. These restoration teams are cranking away on all parts like a bunch of crazy Triumph owners on a mission! If they keep up at this pace, this TTA Stag could be running before summer is over!! And if we let them put the tools down, they might go work on their own cars!! I should have some update photos up on the TTA site sometime this week. In the mean time I have John Mac contact the various Stag suppliers to see what can be sourced and shipped this week if no one has anything immediately on hand. Don't forget, US enthusiasts could put your Economic Stimulus check to good use completing this restoration, so if you have not pledged and donated yet, please do help support this charity and epic drive!! Cheers! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From gary.fluke at verizon.net Sun Apr 13 22:46:06 2008 From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 21:46:06 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Oil additive UPDATE References: <000801c89ced$52163b30$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> <004501c89cff$2531bfb0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <000a01c89d10$aa9331f0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> Message-ID: <003b01c89dea$73ccf860$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> If this topic has already been beaten to death, I apologize. I have learned that the product designation would have been EOSZDDP, and the additive that is desired is a zinc compound. I found an STP oil additive at the local auto parts store that has ZDDP in it and have added it to the oil I changed today after starting the TR for the first time this year. Then, after washing and vacuuming the car, it started to rain and the weather here in the Pacific Northwest will continue to be unseasonably cold and wet. So, no drive for me today after all. Gary '73 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Fluke" To: "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 7:47 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil additive > Ed, > > I don't recall seeing "New Improved" or "as seen on TV" on the label. > > > Gary > '73 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Ed Bratt" > To: "Gary Fluke" ; "Six Pack" > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 5:41 PM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil additive > > >> Gary: >> >> Sounds to me like it is the real product with the effective ingredients >> removed. >> >> Did it have "New Improved" or "as seen on TV" on the label? >> >> Ed Bratt >> Regina,Saskatchewan >> >> 1976 TR6 >> ----- Original Message ----- >> From: "Gary Fluke" >> To: "Six Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> >> Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 4:34 PM >> Subject: [6pack] Oil additive >> >> >>> In order to prevent my 6's cam from going flat, I went to purchase GM's >>> EOS2DDP oil additive from a local Chevy dealer. They have what is >>> labeled EOS >>> Assembly Lube, without the "2DDP" suffix. Is that the same thing, or >>> will it >>> perform the same function? >>> >>> >>> Gary >>> '73 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as gary.fluke at verizon.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 13 23:59:33 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:59:33 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Head studs In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Mon, 14 Apr 2008 02:10:57 +0000 Message-ID: <27494-4802F2C5-5781@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Stan---I never read this from any credible source (or any source, for that matter) but here's my thoughts: To aid in their (eventual) removal, I put a dab of Never-Seize on the first couple of the stud threads, and screw them into the block more or less finger tight. I then nut each stud and torque them to the standard, first to 60 lb. and then again to 80 lb. Torqueing the nut pulls the stud threads up tight against the block threads. Never had a failure or a blown head gasket doing it this way. Dick From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Hi fellow 6packers. I wonder, do head studs need to be torqued to a specific lb/ft into the block before installing the head or do they need to be merely tightened until all of the thread has been consumed by the block and the stud is no longer willing to rotate ? Stan From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Apr 14 00:08:23 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 23:08:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 In-Reply-To: "Alan Salvatore" 's message of Sun, 13 Apr 2008 19:33:00 -0400 Message-ID: <27494-4802F4D7-5785@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Al----The three-holed clutch operating shaft should be near vertical when pulling the arm towards the rear of the car. This puts the throwout bearing and associated linkage up against the clutch fingers. At this point there should be no play. When connecting the SC pushrod to the clutch arm, this 'rod should be nestled into the SC piston depression. The piston should be well back into the SC bore, so it should not come out when depressing the clutch pedal. Of course, as mentioned by another lister, the SC must be mounted in the correct position on the engine backplate. Otherwise it has to reach too far. Dick From: tr6parts at charter.net(Alan Salvatore) I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. And then it pulls the rubber cap off. I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out whats wrong. Is it me or the slave cylinder???? Thanks, Al Salvatore ______________________________________ From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 14 05:41:53 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:41:53 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Head studs In-Reply-To: <27494-4802F2C5-5781@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> References: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Mon, 14 Apr 2008 02:10:57 +0000 <27494-4802F2C5-5781@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA81486D@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Thanks Dick, I assume you install the head in between these two steps.. I put a dab of Never-Seize on the first couple of the stud threads, screw them into the block more or less finger tight. I then nut each stud and torque them to the standard, first to 60 lb. and then again to 80 lb. This makes sense and is consistent with other replies. My deck has been zero blocked so I need to double check that the studs don't bottom out. Stan -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 2:00 AM To: Foster, Stan Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Head studs Stan---I never read this from any credible source (or any source, for that matter) but here's my thoughts: To aid in their (eventual) removal, I put a dab of Never-Seize on the first couple of the stud threads, and screw them into the block more or less finger tight. I then nut each stud and torque them to the standard, first to 60 lb. and then again to 80 lb. Torqueing the nut pulls the stud threads up tight against the block threads. Never had a failure or a blown head gasket doing it this way. Dick From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Hi fellow 6packers. I wonder, do head studs need to be torqued to a specific lb/ft into the block before installing the head or do they need to be merely tightened until all of the thread has been consumed by the block and the stud is no longer willing to rotate ? Stan From tr250 at mindspring.com Mon Apr 14 06:02:00 2008 From: tr250 at mindspring.com (Mark Walker) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 8:02:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Trials motel Message-ID: -----Original Message----- From: tr250 at mindspring.com Subj: Trials motel Date: Mon Apr 14, 2008 8:01 am Size: 566 bytes To: john70350 at msn.com John, Sorry if the typing is poor. I'm on vacation and sending from the TREO. I have stayed at the Valley View several times and never had any problem. The Valley View is the #2 ranked motel in Townsend on several sites (dont have them with me, i'll get them next week). I've toured the motel with the owner, I've talked with him about the reviews, I'm going up there tospend a wkend in May. I've seen nothing that resembles the the negative reviews. You, or any of your club members, can email me or call me at 865 591 0982 anytime Mark Walker Trials host From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Apr 14 07:34:44 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 09:34:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 References: <27494-4802F4D7-5785@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <001101c89e34$4dc05f00$7218b318@alan> If thats correct, then thats the problem. The arm is vertical when pulled to the front, not to the rear. When pulled to the rear it angles back to the rear and out of reach of the slave cylinder rod. The clutch shaft was just installed, not sure how it could be installed wrong. I guess I'll try some spacers or washers to move the slave cylinder farther back. thanks Al Al----The three-holed clutch operating shaft should be near vertical when pulling the arm towards the rear of the car. This puts the throwout bearing and associated linkage up against the clutch fingers. At this point there should be no play. When connecting the SC pushrod to the clutch arm, this 'rod should be nestled into the SC piston depression. The piston should be well back into the SC bore, so it should not come out when depressing the clutch pedal. Of course, as mentioned by another lister, the SC must be mounted in the correct position on the engine backplate. Otherwise it has to reach too far. Dick From: tr6parts at charter.net(Alan Salvatore) I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. And then it pulls the rubber cap off. I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out whats wrong. Is it me or the slave cylinder???? Thanks, Al Salvatore ______________________________________ -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: 4/12/2008 11:32 AM From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 14 08:16:51 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:16:51 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Head studs In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814868@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814868@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Stan: Studs are installed finger tight only. Put the head on, then the nut and torque as specified in Bentley. The big advantage of studs is that the threads in the block are preserved because there is no axial friction as the nut is tightened. Turns out that the axial friction generated as a screw is tightened plays a major role in degrading the strength of the threads. Think about aluminum, after tightening something a couple of times, the threads will pull out - same thing happens in iron, it just takes a little longer. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 7:11 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Head studs Hi fellow 6packers. I wonder, do head studs need to be torqued to a specific lb/ft into the block before installing the head or do they need to be merely tightened until all of the thread has been consumed by the block and the stud is no longer willing to rotate ? Stan From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 14 08:23:31 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:23:31 -0700 Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 In-Reply-To: <002a01c89dbe$b6931a20$7218b318@alan> References: <002a01c89dbe$b6931a20$7218b318@alan> Message-ID: Alan: Assuming everything was put back together properly, the force needed to get the slave to retract is supplied by the clutch. If the clutch is not supplying the force needed to retract the slave cylinder then you have something wrong with the clutch - sorry to say it. Broken fork pin? Fork not engaged in the bearing carrier? Something like that... Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Sunday, April 13, 2008 4:33 PM To: 6pack; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. And then it pulls the rubber cap off. I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out whats wrong. Is it me or the slave cylinder???? Thanks, Al Salvatore From tr6parts at charter.net Mon Apr 14 09:45:39 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:45:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 References: <27494-4802F4D7-5785@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> <001101c89e34$4dc05f00$7218b318@alan> Message-ID: <003d01c89e46$96c87cc0$7218b318@alan> I put 4 washers behind the slave cylinder to move it out; so now its working. Probably next weekend I'll have to pull the tranny out to see whats amiss. Not looking forward to that adventure again. Thanks for all the help, guys. Al > If thats correct, then thats the problem. > > The arm is vertical when pulled to the front, not to the rear. > When pulled to the rear it angles back to the rear and out of reach of the > slave cylinder rod. > > The clutch shaft was just installed, not sure how it could be installed > wrong. > > I guess I'll try some spacers or washers to move the slave cylinder > farther > back. > > thanks > > Al > > > > > Al----The three-holed clutch operating shaft should be near vertical > when pulling the arm towards the rear of the car. This puts the throwout > bearing and associated linkage up against the clutch fingers. At this > point there should be no play. > When connecting the SC pushrod to the clutch arm, this 'rod should be > nestled into the SC piston depression. The piston should be well back > into the SC bore, so it should not come out when depressing the clutch > pedal. > Of course, as mentioned by another lister, the SC must be mounted in the > correct position on the engine backplate. Otherwise it has to reach too > far. > > Dick > > From: tr6parts at charter.net(Alan Salvatore) > > I just rebuilt the clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder. Now,I > can't get the slave cylinder to retract. It doesn't get any movement > until the piston is about to come out of the cylinder. > And then it pulls the rubber cap off. > I've bleed clutches many times before and this time I can't figure out > whats wrong. > Is it me or the slave cylinder???? > Thanks, > Al Salvatore > ______________________________________ > > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1375 - Release Date: > 4/12/2008 > 11:32 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as tr6parts at charter.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.519 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1377 - Release Date: > 4/14/2008 9:26 AM From mailkendall at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 14 09:45:36 2008 From: mailkendall at sbcglobal.net (Kendall Larsen) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 08:45:36 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 Message-ID: <937763.85804.qm@web82607.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi Al, It's possible that your clutch system is working just fine, and that you don't have a broken fork pin or air in the system or anything like that, and still not have the clutch work properly. If your thrust washers have dropped out, it will give all the symptoms of a malfunctioning clutch. The crank shaft just slides forward in the journals and then doesn't provide any force to push back on the slave cylinder. I'm painfully familiar with this phenomena. Kendall San Clemente, CA From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 14 09:48:09 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 08:48:09 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics In-Reply-To: <005801c89c30$525737b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> References: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> <005801c89c30$525737b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: Ed: What, the green politicians admitting they are wrong? It is a sign that the Apocalypse is near. Seriously, this is a real concern. There are food riots in various parts of the world, and a chunk of the blame can be laid at the feet of biofuels. We cannot watch other people starve in a misguided attempt to convert our vehicles to ethanol. This only makes the poor bear the burden of our environmental concerns. Better to tax gasoline as the Europeans do (although I hate to say it) to discourage consumption. Gasoline is at a record high, adjusted for inflation, and usage is just beginning to fall in the US. We can do more if we tax it and discourage consumption than if we convert to ethanol. Anyway, this is a much bigger issue than our TR6s, which only get driven a few miles a year (although some listers use them as daily drivers). If I could buy 100% petroleum based gasoline for my beloved TR6 I would. Better for my car, better for the world. Unfortunately politicians have decided for us that third world hunger is preferable to expensive fuel. Sigh. I know this is a very sensitive topic for Americans, used to cheap fuel and the benefits that brings. I wish it could all be very cheap (except the price of TR6s, which should go up every year of course) but that is not the world we live in. Wow. This is the most serious I have been in a long time. I will revert to my usual inane drivel from here on out. Let's discuss something less controversial, like how to break in your rebuilt engine, or the best camshaft to use for performance AND mileage. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: Ed Bratt [mailto:bratt at sasktel.net] Sent: Friday, April 11, 2008 5:01 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; forzion at maine.rr.com; Bob Cc: 6pack; Craig Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends,stabilizer Vance: The Globe and Mail recently reported Germany had backed off on "bio-fuels". Damage to older cars was one of the reasons cited. Other concerns were the creation of food shortages, and third world countries deforesting to grow fuel feedstock. If anyone , other than us old car owners, should oppose the use of alcohol in fuels it should be the enviromentalists concerned about accelerating deforestation. http://www.theglobeandmail.com/servlet/story/RTGAM.20080404.wgermanybiof uels0404/BNStory/energy/?cid=al_gam_nletter_maropen Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Apr 14 09:56:36 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:56:36 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics In-Reply-To: References: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> <005801c89c30$525737b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: On Mon, 14 Apr 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: [stuff deleted] > Wow. This is the most serious I have been in a long time. I will > revert to my usual inane drivel from here on out. Let's discuss > something less controversial, like how to break in your rebuilt engine, > or the best camshaft to use for performance AND mileage. Ah - mileage? I'm paying $7.25 per US gallon for race fuel. I don't care what kind of mileage I'm getting, I NEED MORE POWER!!!!!! argh Argh ARGH. > Vance rml p.s. and the lady that pumped the fuel on SAT told me that it's going up in price. one of my race buddies paid $10/gal last week at another vendor. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 14 10:01:41 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 09:01:41 -0700 Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light In-Reply-To: References: <000d01c89c2e$aa098b40$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: Jim: I find it charming. Like calling the trunk the "boot" or the hood the "bonnet" or the soft top the "hood". While it makes SOME sense (the ignition circuit is drawing current from the battery when it should not) I feel that the Yankee term "ALT" for alternator is quite a bit clearer, as it is an alternator fault that is preventing the battery from charging as it should. I don't know what the standard is in the rest of the English speaking world (any Canooks, Kiwis or Aussies out there?) I only wish the TR6 user's guide came with a translation guide or phrase book. And Bentley gets hard to read sometimes too (whine, whine, whine). All of this pales in comparison to understanding women, however. So I should not be complaining - even though my wife came *without* a user's guide. Yes, I suppose I should be grateful for the limited accommodations made by the TR6 factory for us "non-English" English speakers. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Davis, James N Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 6:29 AM To: Ed Bratt; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] "IGN" light Ed, I guess I don't really see the "ignition" part of the equation. Doesn't this light go on if there is a voltage imbalance between the alternator and the battery? Maybe I am missing something. . . Thanks for the response. Jim Davis 1974 TR6 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 14 11:42:23 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 10:42:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics In-Reply-To: References: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> <005801c89c30$525737b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: RML: Wouldn't aviation gas be just as good and less expensive? It is 100 octane or some such, isn't it? As for more power, your wallet is the only limiter in that equation. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] Sent: Monday, April 14, 2008 8:57 AM To: Navarrette, Vance Cc: Ed Bratt; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics On Mon, 14 Apr 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: [stuff deleted] > Wow. This is the most serious I have been in a long time. I will > revert to my usual inane drivel from here on out. Let's discuss > something less controversial, like how to break in your rebuilt engine, > or the best camshaft to use for performance AND mileage. Ah - mileage? I'm paying $7.25 per US gallon for race fuel. I don't care what kind of mileage I'm getting, I NEED MORE POWER!!!!!! argh Argh ARGH. > Vance rml p.s. and the lady that pumped the fuel on SAT told me that it's going up in price. one of my race buddies paid $10/gal last week at another vendor. From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Apr 14 11:56:37 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 13:56:37 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics In-Reply-To: References: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> <005801c89c30$525737b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: On Mon, 14 Apr 2008, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > RML: > > Wouldn't aviation gas be just as good and less expensive? It is > 100 octane or some such, isn't it? I really don't know. But I'm also pretty sure that avgas isn't supposed to be dispensed for use in land vehicles. I've never approached and airport on the matter mostly because I can go down to the end of the street (so to speak) to buy the Sunoco race fuel. But there is leaded and unleaded avgas. I'm running leaded while I can and will switch to unleaded when there are not more leaded fuel dispensers in the area. FWIW, the availability of these leaded fuels is largely based on sanctioning bodies. NASCAR switched to unleaded a couple of years ago and that has effected availability in some areas. But I think NHRA / IHRA don't regulate so leaded fuels are still legal there. Last item, I'm "pretty sure" that the leaded 110 is actually less expensive than the unleaded 100. I think that is because there is somewhat less refining necessary to make leaded high-octane. > As for more power, your wallet is the only limiter in that > equation. You don't have to tell me. I drop about $25 every time I turn the ignition key on the race car. > Vance Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From grant at bowtie6.com Mon Apr 14 12:32:02 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 14:32:02 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics In-Reply-To: References: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> <005801c89c30$525737b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <000301c89e5d$d681d840$838588c0$@com> Here are some pictures you all will find interesting... Click or post the following URLS in your browser: http://www.bowtie6.com/2007WalterMitty/Mitty1/slides/IMG_3380.jpg http://www.bowtie6.com/2007WalterMitty/Mitty1/slides/IMG_3381.jpg http://www.bowtie6.com/2007WalterMitty/Mitty1/slides/IMG_3382.jpg Now, these pics were taken exactly one year ago at the filling station inside RoadAtlanta during the Walter Mitty event. The prices are a year old, but will give some insight on what you guys are talking about using racing fuel. Incidentally, there is a gas station down from where I live where one can purchase 96 octane Super Premium unleaded. It is about 20 cents per gallon more than premium unleaded. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From grant at bowtie6.com Mon Apr 14 12:32:09 2008 From: grant at bowtie6.com (Joseph Grant) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 14:32:09 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics In-Reply-To: References: <18266648.568851207937828115.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web24-z02> <005801c89c30$525737b0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <000401c89e5d$daf2c6f0$90d854d0$@com> Here are some pictures you all will find interesting... Click or post the following URLS in your browser: http://www.bowtie6.com/2007WalterMitty/Mitty1/slides/IMG_3380.jpg http://www.bowtie6.com/2007WalterMitty/Mitty1/slides/IMG_3381.jpg http://www.bowtie6.com/2007WalterMitty/Mitty1/slides/IMG_3382.jpg Now, these pics were taken exactly one year ago at the filling station inside RoadAtlanta during the Walter Mitty event. The prices are a year old, but will give some insight on what you guys are talking about using racing fuel. Incidentally, there is a gas station down from where I live where one can purchase 96 octane Super Premium unleaded. It is about 20 cents per gallon more than premium unleaded. Joe '72 TR6 - CC77169 http://www.bowtie6.com/ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Apr 14 12:51:54 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:51:54 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Head studs In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:41:53 +0000 Message-ID: <13530-4803A7CA-414@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Stan---If the engine is out of the car, I install all or most of the studs first, drop in the gasket, then set the head into place. If the engine is in place, I install only the four corner studs to position the gasket. Then drop in the head and put in the rest of the studs. First, to make it easier on the back, a couple of 2x2s span across the block/gasket to the (padded) fenders, and the head is slid across into position. Manuvering the head over the studs, then sliding out the 2x2s does the trick. Dick From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Thanks Dick, I assume you install the head in between these two steps.. This makes sense and is consistent with other replies. My deck has been zero blocked so I need to double check that the studs don't bottom out. Stan From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Apr 14 12:58:02 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:58:02 -0700 Subject: [6pack] clutch bleeding, tr6 In-Reply-To: "Alan Salvatore" 's message of Mon, 14 Apr 2008 09:34:44 -0400 Message-ID: <13527-4803A93A-3434@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Al---Something's wrong inside the bell housing. I know it's a chore to pull the tranny again, but that's where the answer lies. Shimming the SC rearward to pick up the new angle of the clutch operating shaft will throw the angle of attack way off, and the clutch may not release. Dick From: tr6parts at charter.net(Alan Salvatore) If thats correct, then thats the problem. The arm is vertical when pulled to the front, not to the rear. When pulled to the rear it angles back to the rear and out of reach of the slave cylinder rod. The clutch shaft was just installed, not sure how it could be installed wrong. I guess I'll try some spacers or washers to move the slave cylinder farther back. thanks Al Al----The three-holed clutch operating shaft should be near vertical when pulling the arm towards the rear of the car. This puts the throwout bearing and associated linkage up against the clutch fingers. At this point there should be no play. When connecting the SC pushrod to the clutch arm, this 'rod should be nestled into the SC piston depression. The piston should be well back into the SC bore, so it should not come out when depressing the clutch pedal. Of course, as mentioned by another lister, the SC must be mounted in the correct position on the engine backplate. Otherwise it has to reach too far. Dick ______________________________________ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Apr 14 19:33:47 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 20:33:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] sharing some successful troubleshooting References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Message-ID: <004001c89e98$c442f840$e91f10ac@garage.local> we got our tr6 back together and running, but it just wasn't right. missed and stumbled, escpecially under 3000 rpm swapped out the plug wires and dist cap (just easier!) from another running tr6. the first one ran MUCH better; the second one ran MUCH worse. still stumbled around 3000 rpm. went to swap out the plugs; found #5 had pretty much no gap; the others varied from .020 to .035. put in new NGK plugs, all at .035. car runs SWEET!!!!!!!!!!!! From triumph72 at juno.com Mon Apr 14 22:49:44 2008 From: triumph72 at juno.com (triumph72 at juno.com) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 04:49:44 GMT Subject: [6pack] WRT Townsend TN HOTRES... Message-ID: <20080414.234944.2552.2@webmail15.vgs.untd.com> The 6-PACK list... IMHO, The object of the TRIALS is to have a good time together...to share the parking lot, the hotel and the hospitality suite...to have time together as a club... The sponsoring club didn't go to all the work of organizing the TRIALS at the venue of their choosing to not be supported by the attending 6-PACKers...support your local and national TR6 club... That's why we are 6-PACK (and not some other TR club)... I'll apologize if I misinterpreted the intent of the site link... Yours in Triumphs and 6-PACK... Steve _____________________________________________________________ Shop & save on all of the office supplies you need. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3n4JaFqg9ZPfCAr4vlIu3jfAdui Gn2Zr1ElcWxUejoU2Mxqx/ From 75teer6 at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 08:50:07 2008 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 08:50:07 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol gasoline blends In-Reply-To: <47FFD6F9@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <47FFD6F9@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0804150750m22b9fb4k451ea45038db7353@mail.gmail.com> Thank you for all the contributions and opinions about the use of ethanol blend gasolines. My conclusion from this discussion is that I will continue to use Top Tier gasoline, NOT ethanol blends (we have the choice in our region). My preferred choice is Shell V-Power, unfortunately Sunoco Ultra 94 is not available in our region. >From the discussion it seems that there are NO advantages to the ethanol blends and a number of mechanical disadvantages including less performance and risk of damage to various parts. In terms of the, ecological, environmental, agricultural, political, social etc perspective, based on my limited knowledge, I share the opinion that Ethanol is NOT a good product, and that personal opinion has NOTHING to do with the fact that I live in the middle of the Canadian oilpatch, Calgary, Alberta. Thank you everyone, Henri Calgary, Alberta 1975 TR6 1971 MGB GT From 75teer6 at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 09:30:32 2008 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 09:30:32 -0600 Subject: [6pack] "IGN" light In-Reply-To: References: <000d01c89c2e$aa098b40$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0804150830w5f101930m1b276e21547f7cdc@mail.gmail.com> Vance, I presume that by 'Canooks' you meant Canuck (Wikipedia has a good write-up on the expression). Here in Canada we use mostly ALT, because of the predominance (???) of vehicles manufactured in North America. On the other hand our English language is a blend of British and US English. Our written English is primarily British but our spoken English is mostly North American, but with several specific differences from the US spoken English. Our Canadian French follows the rules of the Academie Francaise but several Canadian words, expressions and pronunciations have been integrated into the Canadian French over the last 400 years. We are grateful that Microsoft provides a spellcheck for 'English Canada' and 'French Canada' to help us make some sense of all this! Given this background we adapt readily to the use of IGN or ALT, depending which vehicle we drive at the moment. Henri Calgary, Alberta 1975 TR6 1971 MGB GT On Mon, Apr 14, 2008 at 10:01 AM, Navarrette, Vance wrote: > Jim: > > While it makes SOME sense (the ignition circuit is drawing > current from the battery when it should not) I feel that the Yankee term > "ALT" for alternator is quite a bit clearer, as it is an alternator > fault that is preventing the battery from charging as it should. I don't > know what the standard is in the rest of the English speaking world (any > Canooks, Kiwis or Aussies out there?) > > > Vance > > Vance Navarrette > Cogito Ergo Zoom > I think, therefore I go fast > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Davis, James N > Sent: Saturday, April 12, 2008 6:29 AM > To: Ed Bratt; 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: Re: [6pack] "IGN" light > > Ed, > > I guess I don't really see the "ignition" part of the equation. Doesn't > this > light go on if there is a voltage imbalance between the alternator and > the > battery? Maybe I am missing something. . . > > Thanks for the response. > > Jim Davis > 1974 TR6 > > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75teer6 at gmail.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Apr 15 09:38:27 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 11:38:27 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 AutoX In-Car Message-ID: Hi, I took some in-car at the first event of the year up here in NE. http://youtube.com/watch?v=S3w_ht7BAEk It was an interesting event, but I wound up third overall raw time which is "not bad" considering there were 5 MOD car drivers in my heat. But I was only about 1 second off FTD, and I think if I hand't bobbled a bit on one leg, I might have been another .5 sec. faster which would have put me in second overall. Enjoy! Oh - the sound sucks. Sorry about that. I'm going to play with the built in mic. to see if I can fix that. I really want to hear that sweet 6 when I watch the vid! rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From richards at hollywoodcenter.com Tue Apr 15 09:47:37 2008 From: richards at hollywoodcenter.com (Richard Schnyder) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 08:47:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] American Silvestones (vinage type) Message-ID: <007001c89f10$076bfd70$160211ac@sms> I have a chance to purchase a set of four American Silverstones (the old style) off a TR4 race car. Should it say "American Racing" on the back side of the wheel? With a wheel off the car, I inserted one of the lug nut washer assemblies provided. It seemed loose in the wheel lug nut hole. How do you make sure the wheel is properly centered when you mount it on the car. My current set of Superlight wheels have tapered lug nuts, with tapers in the wheel to properly center the wheel. I may need to purchase new lug nuts and washers, any ideas on where ? Any suggestions about crack testing? Any suggestions about restoring the looks of these wheels? Thank you RichardS 1974 TR6 From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Apr 15 09:51:44 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 11:51:44 EDT Subject: [6pack] American Silvestones (vintage type) now TR4 TR6 sought Message-ID: > I have a chance to purchase a set of four American Silverstones (the old > style) off a TR4 race car. > > Richard, et. al. Is the TR4 Race Car for Sale? There is a guy in the South West that is looking for one. Thanks! Joe A PS: There is a TR6 Vintage Racer for sale in Madison, WI, casually for sale by a friend of mine. From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Apr 15 10:20:39 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 09:20:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] FW: "IGN" light Message-ID: Henri: Speling nevere was my strenght. I wil get it rite next tyme. Thancs, Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Henri Lefebvre Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:31 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] "IGN" light Vance, I presume that by 'Canooks' you meant Canuck (Wikipedia has a good write-up on the expression). Henri Calgary, Alberta 1975 TR6 1971 MGB GT From krgibbon at volcano.net Tue Apr 15 12:23:58 2008 From: krgibbon at volcano.net (Richard & Karyn Gibbon) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 11:23:58 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Triumphest 2008 Message-ID: The Triumphest 2008 registration form is now available at www.triumphtravelers.org Triumphest 2008 is being held at the Horizon Casino & Resort in South Lake Tahoe, NV October 2-5, 2008 From rnorris1 at swbell.net Tue Apr 15 12:50:47 2008 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 13:50:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Avgas Message-ID: <4804F907.6060606@swbell.net> Vance, 100 octane low lead aviation gasoline at $4.75+ would indeed be less expensive that racing fuel at 7 bucks a gallon. However, gaining access to the pumps on a secure ramp area at the local airport might be problematic. Our non-towered airport has the gates locked except for aircraft owners, so having a buddy that owns an airplane might be beneficial. Other than an airport, I don't know where one might be able to obtain it. Rick Norris From anabil007 at comcast.net Tue Apr 15 13:17:55 2008 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 12:17:55 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Avgas In-Reply-To: <4804F907.6060606@swbell.net> References: <4804F907.6060606@swbell.net> Message-ID: At my first US Navy duty station, they were still flying reciprocating engine transports .... Navy ID ... R5D ... (rest of the world DC6) ... when they came in for routine inspection, for some reason they had to be fueled at the end in order to start the engines ... Our cars ran really good (especially my AH 100-4) on the 115/145 AvGas that "leaked" out of the fuel tanks ... >Vance, 100 octane low lead aviation gasoline at $4.75+ would indeed be >less expensive that racing fuel at 7 bucks a gallon. However, gaining >access to the pumps on a secure ramp area at the local airport might be >problematic. Our non-towered airport has the gates locked except for >aircraft owners, so having a buddy that owns an airplane might be >beneficial. Other than an airport, I don't know where one might be able >to obtain it. > >Rick Norris -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From tr6 at pobox.com Tue Apr 15 13:35:51 2008 From: tr6 at pobox.com (Mark Steph) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 14:35:51 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Ethanol and TR6 ethics Message-ID: <48050397.6030100@pobox.com> Robert Lang writes: I really don't know. But I'm also pretty sure that avgas isn't supposed to be dispensed for use in land vehicles. I've never approached and airport on the matter mostly because I can go down to the end of the street (so to speak) to buy the Sunoco race fuel. But there is leaded and unleaded avgas. I'm running leaded while I can and will switch to unleaded when there are not more leaded fuel dispensers in the area. FWIW, the availability of these leaded fuels is largely based on sanctioning bodies. NASCAR switched to unleaded a couple of years ago and that has effected availability in some areas. But I think NHRA / IHRA don't regulate so leaded fuels are still legal there. Last item, I'm "pretty sure" that the leaded 110 is actually less expensive than the unleaded 100. I think that is because there is somewhat less refining necessary to make leaded high-octane. --- For what it's worth, 100 octane avgas is not unleaded. The name "100 low lead" is a misnomer -- and its been called that well before there was such a thing as unleaded gas. It is low lead in comparison to the higher leaded 100/130 octane fuel it replaced. It has about 2 grams of lead per gallon. Technically it is "wrong" to run it in a on-road vehicle as the tax on avgas goes into aviation infrastructure and the tax on autogas goes to roads/bridges. From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Apr 15 15:36:17 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:36:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Avgas References: <4804F907.6060606@swbell.net> Message-ID: <003001c89f40$bd176710$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> It is possible to purchase 100LL from most small airport Fixed Based Operators' (FBO's) if it is dispensed in a regulation container to accommodate the needs of aircraft owners who want to take fuel to their aircraft. However, since the flying community in most small airports is a pretty small, you're better off finding a friendly pilot who can help you (or at least give you a good cover story for why you want 15 gallons of 100LL!). It is the fact that Avgas isn't subject to fed and some state taxes that causes a problem for the FBO operator ... and the car owner. The blue dye tint and the distinct smell of 100LL Avgas would be a give away to those who might be interested .. in Michigan, I haven't heard of anyone being chased down for using Avgas, but the FBO operator will be pretty nervous about a car pulling up to the pump on the GA ramp just in case he gets a visit from the taxation authorities.... However, some, including the local airport I fly out of, have a credit card dispenser making it easy to get 100LL at less social hours .... so the problem is solved: you have to find the ungated road to the hangers (and from there you can drive on the taxiway), plus work out how to make your TR6 look like an Ultralite at night ... and don't forget -- avoid pumping the 80LL! I should add that although I can easily get 100LL, I've never bothered for my TR6, but would be willing to help anyone in mid-MI if they are interested in 5 gallons at a time! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Rick Norris" To: "Navarrette, Vance" Cc: "6-Pack List Serve" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 2:50 PM Subject: [6pack] Avgas > Vance, 100 octane low lead aviation gasoline at $4.75+ would indeed be > less expensive that racing fuel at 7 bucks a gallon. However, gaining > access to the pumps on a secure ramp area at the local airport might be > problematic. Our non-towered airport has the gates locked except for > aircraft owners, so having a buddy that owns an airplane might be > beneficial. Other than an airport, I don't know where one might be able > to obtain it. > > Rick Norris > _______________________________________________ From rgperry at earthlink.net Tue Apr 15 16:00:14 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 17:00:14 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Avgas Message-ID: <27361855.1208296814904.JavaMail.root@elwamui-wigeon.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Tony, In the 70's and 80's I just drove up next to the fuel truck at the local airport, walked over the headquarters/ office and asked if I could get some 100 octane (blue) fuel. Someone would come over and fill my tank. I had an 11:1 compression in an Oldsmobile at the time. Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: Tony Gordon >Sent: Apr 15, 2008 4:36 PM >To: Rick Norris >Cc: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> >Subject: Re: [6pack] Avgas >...... but the FBO operator will be pretty nervous about a >car pulling up to the pump on the GA ramp just in case he gets a visit from >the taxation authorities.... > >However, some, including the local airport I fly out of, have a credit card >dispenser making it easy to get 100LL at less social hours .... so the >problem is solved: you have to find the ungated road to the hangers (and >from there you can drive on the taxiway), plus work out how to make your TR6 >look like an Ultralite at night ... and don't forget -- avoid pumping the >80LL! >************************************** >Tony Gordon >72 TR6 >************************************** From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Tue Apr 15 16:27:28 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 16:27:28 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Avgas Message-ID: <480AEB61@webmail.colostate.edu> >===== Original Message From Rick Norris ===== >Vance, 100 octane low lead aviation gasoline at $4.75+ would indeed be >less expensive that racing fuel at 7 bucks a gallon. However, gaining >access to the pumps on a secure ramp area at the local airport might be >problematic. Our non-towered airport has the gates locked except for >aircraft owners, so having a buddy that owns an airplane might be >beneficial. Other than an airport, I don't know where one might be able >to obtain it. > It's really easy actually, without even going to an airport. Find a local Fuel Depot. Where the trucks that service your local stations fill up. When we had MTBE as the winter oxygenator they would pump it straight into your fuel tank during the non-oxygenate required months which were May thru October. During the winter months they would only pump it into certified fuel continers (standard gas cans) and didn't care waht you did with it. Now that we are 'blessed' with 10% ethanol year round, I doubt they would pump straight into the tank anymore. Actually, I haven't even tried since 9/11 so I don't know if they are required to have higher security or not. I might give it a shot soon and let you all know what I find out. Oh, and if your worried about the taxes, they charge those at the depot as well. Just not the mark up for the local corner gas. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 15 17:17:36 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 19:17:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] New Clutch M/C Stuff Message-ID: <000001c89f4e$e6bd72e0$210110ac@bobspc> I just got a new Girling, made in China, clutch M/C from TRF. When I opened it up there was an oil-like substance coating the inside. My only thought was that they put this in there to keep the seals fresh. What's the best way to flush it out? Just run some brake fluif through it? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Tue Apr 15 18:03:18 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 18:03:18 -0600 Subject: [6pack] American Silvestones (vinage type) In-Reply-To: <007001c89f10$076bfd70$160211ac@sms> References: <007001c89f10$076bfd70$160211ac@sms> Message-ID: <48054246.3090208@tscusa.org> What does this race car look like and is it from the bona fide owner? There is one that was stolen a while back so it is worth asking Richard Schnyder wrote: > I have a chance to purchase a set of four American Silverstones (the old > style) off a TR4 race car. > > Should it say "American Racing" on the back side of the wheel? > > With a wheel off the car, I inserted one of the lug nut washer assemblies > provided. It seemed loose in the wheel lug nut hole. How do you make sure the > wheel is properly centered when you mount it on the car. My current set of > Superlight wheels have tapered lug nuts, with tapers in the wheel to properly > center the wheel. > > I may need to purchase new lug nuts and washers, any ideas on where ? > > Any suggestions about crack testing? > > Any suggestions about restoring the looks of these wheels? > > Thank you > RichardS > 1974 TR6 > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Apr 15 18:46:22 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 20:46:22 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] New Clutch M/C Stuff In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000601c89f5b$4daca6e0$210110ac@bobspc> My bad.........it's a product of India......I guess along with Call Centers they're making car parts too. It came in a generic white TRF box Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org ________________________________ From: ZoboHerald at aol.com [mailto:ZoboHerald at aol.com] Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 8:37 PM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Subject: Re: [TR] New Clutch M/C Stuff In a message dated 4/15/2008 7:18:54 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org writes: I just got a new Girling, made in China, clutch M/C from TRF. When I opened it up there was an oil-like substance coating the inside. My only thought was that they put this in there to keep the seals fresh. What's the best way to flush it out? Just run some brake fluif through it? Aaargh! Is it REALLY made in China? What packaging? Lucas/TRW? or something else? --Andy Mace *Mrs Irrelevant: Oh, is it a jet? *Man: Well, no ... It's not so much of a jet, it's more your, er, Triumph Herald engine with wings. -- Cut-price Airlines Sketch, Monty Python's Flying Circus (22) Check out the North American Triumph Sports 6 (Vitesse 6) and Triumph Herald Database at its new URL: http://triumph-herald.us ________________________________ It's Tax Time! Get tips, forms and advice on AOL Money & Finance . No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.22.13/1378 - Release Date: 4/15/2008 9:12 AM From N197TR4 at cs.com Tue Apr 15 20:13:16 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 22:13:16 EDT Subject: [6pack] American Silvestones (vinage type) Message-ID: In a message dated 4/15/2008 7:03:55 PM Central Daylight Time, StagByTriumph at tscusa.org writes: > What does this race car look like and is it from the bona fide owner? > There is one that was stolen a while back so it is worth asking > Glenn Good point and superbly alert....that one was a TR250 (TR5) Joe A From triumph.tr4 at gmail.com Tue Apr 15 21:11:33 2008 From: triumph.tr4 at gmail.com (Scott Tilton) Date: Tue, 15 Apr 2008 22:11:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] American Silvestones (vinage type) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I actually do not think that mine have any indication on them (front or back) that they are American Racing or Silverstones. I have a set of the magnesium ones. The lug holes are exactly as you describe - they are "straight through" holes and require straight shank lugnuts and washers in order to fit them. and yes - they don't inspire confidence that they are actually doing the job of centering up the wheel on the hub. Beyond that - it is a pain in the ass to mount them compared to tapered seat / lug style wheels. You sort of have to put the wheel up on the studs - of course gravity wants to pull it down so the holes don't want to be on the centers of the studs. Then what I end up doing is putting a couple of the lug nuts on by just a couple threads. Then I end up lifting the wheel - and pulling it up onto the straight shanks of the lugnuts. Then you progressively tighten them down. It's a real pain. I've thought of getting some wheel shop to press in some sort of top hat bushing style inserts that will let me use the tapered seat lug nuts. I'm concerned about the metalurgy though. (dissimilar metals and galvanic corrosion and all that stuff you know) as far as identifying them - the "spokes" radiate all the way towards the middle. They have a generous clearance in some of the spokes to allow for a good sized lug wrench to get to the lug nuts. Which is a good thing because you are going to want to use some large washers to spread out the clamping load under the heads of the lug nuts. You can buy the lugnuts anwhere. Seriously - almost any autoparts store. Straight shank - with washers - 7/16 thread size. don't go for the "short shank style" if anything go for the longer shank ones and get some extra large washers (be wary of using the tiny ones that come with some of those lug nut kits.) Mine need crack testing and restoring as well. I"m not sure where to do it. I don't trust just anyone to do it. So I'd be interested in hearing anyone else's responses too. Cheers. Scott Tilton In Alexandria, VA From jsvannorman at gmail.com Wed Apr 16 10:33:24 2008 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 12:33:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again Message-ID: Not to rehash an old topic again, but I've been rereading the old emails concerning ZDDP after seeing Moss Motors recent ad email saying they are now carrying a ZDDP additive (which I've ordered some bottles of already). Has anyone confirmed whether there is any other brand of oil additive out there that serves our purposes? I did some internet research and Valvoline Syntech Oil Additive appeared to be recommended, but I can't find it on Valvoline's website, so I'm not sure if it is still made. John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 -- www.vannorman.hobby-site.com From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Wed Apr 16 10:37:06 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 09:37:06 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <595723.15453.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> John - I plan to use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil for my next oil change. Here's an info link: http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50 Jim From jsvannorman at gmail.com Wed Apr 16 11:20:17 2008 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 13:20:17 -0400 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again In-Reply-To: <595723.15453.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <595723.15453.qm@web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: I saw the VR-1 Racing Oil when I was at their website (and I like the idea since I'm partial to Valvoline as my father spent over 25 years working for Ashland Oil / Ashland Inc.). But what's everyone's thoughts about using racing oil in a non-racing car? I figure it doesn't have the detergents and other addiatives to deal with acids and such that standard passenger car oil has since most racing oil is designed to be replaced very frequently. John V. On Wed, Apr 16, 2008 at 12:37 PM, Jim Jones wrote: > John - > > I plan to use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil for my next oil change. Here's an > info link: > http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50 > Jim > -- www.vannorman.hobby-site.com From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Wed Apr 16 11:39:02 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 11:39:02 -0600 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again Message-ID: <48069312@webmail.colostate.edu> >From what I have seen, the VR1 sold in auto parts stores has all the additives necessary just like any other consumer grade oil they sell for longevity, cleanliness etc... The stuff that's only good for 500 miles or so isn't sold through standard outlets but specialty suppliers. If the VR1 doesn't have the SM rating then it could very well still have ZDDP. If it does have the SM rating then it doesn't. Been reading all the tech articles on ZDDPlus. Still reading. Shawn >===== Original Message From "John VanNorman" ===== >I saw the VR-1 Racing Oil when I was at their website (and I like the >idea since I'm partial to Valvoline as my father spent over 25 years >working for Ashland Oil / Ashland Inc.). But what's everyone's >thoughts about using racing oil in a non-racing car? I figure it >doesn't have the detergents and other addiatives to deal with acids >and such that standard passenger car oil has since most racing oil is >designed to be replaced very frequently. > >John V. > >On Wed, Apr 16, 2008 at 12:37 PM, Jim Jones wrote: >> John - >> >> I plan to use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil for my next oil change. Here's an >> info link: >> http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50 >> Jim >> > > > >-- >www.vannorman.hobby-site.com >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as sloseke at holly.colostate.edu From richards at hollywoodcenter.com Wed Apr 16 11:39:23 2008 From: richards at hollywoodcenter.com (Richard Schnyder) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 10:39:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 168 References: Message-ID: <005d01c89fe8$cedfc660$160211ac@sms> RE: contents of Vol 2, Issue 168 re: TR4 Race Car with wheels for sale. The race car that has the wheels for sale has been owned by the same group of people for many years. It belongs to a car collector and racer. The only reason the wheels might be for sale to me is that I know these guys. Richard Schnyder Hollywood Center Studios 323 860 0000 ----- Original Message ----- From: <6pack-request at autox.team.net> To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 11:00 AM Subject: 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 168 > Send 6pack mailing list submissions to > 6pack at autox.team.net > > To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to > 6pack-request at autox.team.net > > You can reach the person managing the list at > 6pack-owner at autox.team.net > > When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific > than "Re: Contents of 6pack digest..." > > > Today's Topics: > > 1. ZDDP again (John VanNorman) > 2. Re: ZDDP again (Jim Jones) > > > ---------------------------------------------------------------------- > > Message: 1 > Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 12:33:24 -0400 > From: "John VanNorman" > Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again > To: 6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Message-ID: > > Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 > > Not to rehash an old topic again, but I've been rereading the old > emails concerning ZDDP after seeing Moss Motors recent ad email saying > they are now carrying a ZDDP additive (which I've ordered some bottles > of already). Has anyone confirmed whether there is any other brand of > oil additive out there that serves our purposes? I did some internet > research and Valvoline Syntech Oil Additive appeared to be > recommended, but I can't find it on Valvoline's website, so I'm not > sure if it is still made. > > John V. > 1974 1/2 TR6 > -- > www.vannorman.hobby-site.com > > > ------------------------------ > > Message: 2 > Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 09:37:06 -0700 (PDT) > From: Jim Jones > Subject: Re: [6pack] ZDDP again > To: John VanNorman , 6-Pack > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Message-ID: <595723.15453.qm at web33501.mail.mud.yahoo.com> > Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > > John - > > I plan to use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil for my next oil change. Here's an > info link: > http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50 > > Jim > > > ------------------------------ > > _______________________________________________ > 6pack mailing list > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > > End of 6pack Digest, Vol 2, Issue 168 > ************************************* From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Wed Apr 16 12:00:46 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 11:00:46 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] ZDDP in Oil Message-ID: <424173.17360.qm@web51403.mail.re2.yahoo.com> I hate to belabor this topic since we have already beat up on it quite a bit but....... I thought the general consensus was that some of the racing oils such as Kendall and Valvoline have ZDDP in them (which is good) but there was some question as to whether or not the percentage of the ZDDP in these currently sold oils is as high as it was in oils sold before the big push to reduce ZDDP to increase catalytic converter life and decrease cam life in cars like ours with solid lifters. Does anyone know if these racing oils have enough ZDDP in them to meet the needs of our cars (or is as high as it was in the old days) which is most needed when installing a new cam and lifters? Mike Lunsford, 1970 TR 6 W/O Catalytic converter --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From triosan at gmail.com Wed Apr 16 12:15:40 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 11:15:40 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Valve Cover cap for Triumphtune valve cover Message-ID: <8cbd782d0804161115r1d02c1d5m6d294a30af5ee58d@mail.gmail.com> I have a nice old black Triumphtune valve cover with no cap. It seems to be a strange size -- bigger hole than standard cap, but same configuration with the lip on the outside. The diameter is about 2.4 inches with the maximum diameter of the inside is 2.25. Any help appreciated. -- Chuck Arnold From emanteno at comcast.net Wed Apr 16 13:16:49 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 19:16:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP in Oil Message-ID: <041620081916.8610.480650A10000EC11000021A22213539653970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: michael lunsford > I hate to belabor this topic since we have already beat up on it quite a bit > but....... I thought the general consensus was that some of the racing oils > such as Kendall and Valvoline have ZDDP in them (which is good) but there was > some question as to whether or not the percentage of the ZDDP in these > currently sold oils is as high as it was in oils sold before the big push to > reduce ZDDP to increase catalytic converter life and decrease cam life in cars > like ours with solid lifters. Does anyone know if these racing oils have enough > ZDDP in them to meet the needs of our cars (or is as high as it was in the old > days) which is most needed when installing a new cam and lifters? I don't know about the others, but Kendall oil is no longer Kendall oil. I think the Kendall brand was sold to a major refinery, and Kendall cans now contain conventional oil. The oil that comes from the PA refinery that used to be Kendall, is now sold as Brad Penn racing oil, and they claim it is the same formulation in that distinctive green color as what used to come in Kendall containers. Including the ZDDP. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From glenn.rierson at verizon.net Wed Apr 16 13:56:05 2008 From: glenn.rierson at verizon.net (Glenn Rierson) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 14:56:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again In-Reply-To: <48069312@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <48069312@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <8800EE83F05D434884A77DE4B244A9D0@GlennPC> Shawn, The label on the quart container of Valvoline VR1 has the notation "exceeds API services SM/SL/CD" and it also has the statement "ashless anti-wear additives and ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection". Where can you get the breakdown of the contents of motor oils? Glenn ----- Original Message ----- From: "Shawn J. Loseke" To: "John VanNorman" ; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 16, 2008 12:39 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] ZDDP again > >From what I have seen, the VR1 sold in auto parts stores has all the > >additives > necessary just like any other consumer grade oil they sell for longevity, > cleanliness etc... The stuff that's only good for 500 miles or so isn't > sold > through standard outlets but specialty suppliers. If the VR1 doesn't have > the > SM rating then it could very well still have ZDDP. If it does have the SM > rating then it doesn't. > > Been reading all the tech articles on ZDDPlus. Still reading. > > Shawn > >>===== Original Message From "John VanNorman" ===== >>I saw the VR-1 Racing Oil when I was at their website (and I like the >>idea since I'm partial to Valvoline as my father spent over 25 years >>working for Ashland Oil / Ashland Inc.). But what's everyone's >>thoughts about using racing oil in a non-racing car? I figure it >>doesn't have the detergents and other addiatives to deal with acids >>and such that standard passenger car oil has since most racing oil is >>designed to be replaced very frequently. >> >>John V. >> >>On Wed, Apr 16, 2008 at 12:37 PM, Jim Jones wrote: >>> John - >>> >>> I plan to use Valvoline VR-1 Racing Oil for my next oil change. Here's >>> an >>> info link: >>> http://www.valvoline.com/pages/products/product_detail.asp?product=50 >>> Jim >>> >> >> >> >>-- >>www.vannorman.hobby-site.com >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>6pack at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>You are subscribed as sloseke at holly.colostate.edu > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as glenn.rierson at verizon.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.0/1379 - Release Date: 4/15/2008 > 6:10 PM From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Apr 16 16:10:07 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:10:07 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again In-Reply-To: <8800EE83F05D434884A77DE4B244A9D0@GlennPC> References: <48069312@webmail.colostate.edu> <8800EE83F05D434884A77DE4B244A9D0@GlennPC> Message-ID: On Wed, 16 Apr 2008, Glenn Rierson wrote: > Shawn, > > The label on the quart container of Valvoline VR1 has the notation "exceeds > API services SM/SL/CD" and it also has the statement "ashless anti-wear > additives and ZDDP provide ultimate wear protection". Where can you get the > breakdown of the contents of motor oils? See - this is the problem. The manufacturers are somewhat tight-lipped about the actual content. The folks that have been beating this dead horse can tell you that you might find content amounts on the web, but all the ones I've seen aren't dated, so you don't know what you're looking at and from when. Then there's a bunch of internet experts (!) that quote amounts from dated sites... that leads to false notions about what's really going on. Bottom line: if the oil is API-SL, it has reduced ZDDP. End of discussion. If you chose to use an oil like this (let's say Castrol GTX 20w50) - it the bottle says API-SL or API-SM, USE A SUPPLEMENT. If you could find one that is API-SG, and you KNOW that it used to have the ZDDP, then you'd have what you're looking for. But good luck finding API-SG oil anywhere. If it's the diesel spec CJ-4, it has the NEW lower amounts of "stuff" and it won't help your cam wear. You can use it, but there's no benefit and you'd have to add a supplement to get the increased ZDDP. A bunch of specialty oils (like racing and/or motorcycle oil) are made to work with old engines and these are what you need to look at. Easy. The old Castrol used to have about 1200 ppm (I think that's the unit) or ZDDP, the new stuff has less, I think 800, but I KNOW that there is not enough anti-wear stuff in it because I've wrecked a couple of cams in the last few years and I was able to put two and two together and figure out that the cam wear was due to the oil being different. All my cam failures were since they went to API-SL for off-the-shelf motor oil. > Glenn Regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From jmitch at snet.net Wed Apr 16 16:27:03 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:27:03 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Steering arm rub Message-ID: <48067D37.909@snet.net> I've noticed a rubbing sound when I make a hard left turn into my garage. I had written it off to tire rub as I have 205-70/15 tires. It was louder tonight, so I crawled under with a flashlight and I could see that upper ball of the anti roll bar link is hitting the right steering arm where the tie rod end attaches. Before I take out the angle grinder, What do I have set up incorrectly and what do I need to do to fix it. Thanks for any help. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From lajomor05 at msn.com Wed Apr 16 16:35:17 2008 From: lajomor05 at msn.com (JODY A MORRISON) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 16:35:17 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Oil 'n' Zinc 'n' You Message-ID: FWIW department.... >From an advertisement in Classic Motorsport magazine: Penn Grade 1 motor oil. SAE 20W-50 >From Brad Penn....AKA, Brand Penn Racing, .... www.bradpennracing.com Quoted from the ad...."If you are missing the ZINC ADDITIVE in your oil you have found the answer. Highly recommended for use in air-cooled and other classic and vintage engines using flat-tappet as well as roller cams. Our unique cut from Penn Grade Crude and ZDDP makes the difference as confirmed by a number of premier cam manufacturers". "The Green Oil"...not sure what that means. Phone 814-368-1340 NFI etc. etc. Larry M From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Wed Apr 16 18:26:34 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 18:26:34 -0600 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again Message-ID: <480AF1E5@webmail.colostate.edu> Like Bob says, I would go by the SM rating. It might still have some but at a lower concentration. Not high enough for proper camshaft protection over your regular interval. Reading some of the tech specs on ZDDP, it appears that it is a sacrificial additive that depletes as its called into use. Lowering the concentration lessens the interval between needed oil changes. As you might expect, increasing the concentration increases the interval. Haven't seen a correlation to percentage and mileage yet though. Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From DLylis at aol.com Wed Apr 16 20:04:20 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Wed, 16 Apr 2008 22:04:20 EDT Subject: [6pack] Steering arm rub Message-ID: IMHO put away the angle grinder. 205/70 gives no interference. This sounds like it is not set up right but can't tell from the description. Send a pic and I will send a pic and you can determine what is wrong. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From janah at att.net Thu Apr 17 03:32:32 2008 From: janah at att.net (janah at att.net) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 09:32:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] API Chart Message-ID: <041720080932.19463.4807192F000D168300004C0722230703729B0A02D29B9B0EBF080E020E06@att.net> This is somewhat helpful. http://new.api.org/certifications/engineoil/categories/upload/EngineOilGuide2006.pdf John Cyg. From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Apr 17 08:07:40 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 07:07:40 -0700 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again References: <480AF1E5@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <011201c8a094$663ee120$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Hello, Since ZDDP is back in the discussion see note below from Shell. I did put Rotella T in my '71 TR6. I have no relation or interest whatsoever in Shell etc. Regards, Bob "Bob, With the introduction a couple of years ago of ILSAC specification GF-4 and API specification SM for gasoline-only engine oils, the amount of phosphorous in the oil had to be reduced to prolong the life of catalytic converters. Zinc-based anti-wear compounds, which also contain phosphorous, were reduced as well. These zinc compounds work well to protect flat tappet engines from excessive wear, so the modern gasoline-only engine oils are not as effective in this regard as they once were. Diesel engine oils don't suffer from the same requirements to protect catalytic converters, so the amount of zinc-based anti-wear additives remained high. Products like Shell Rotella T Oils, which also carry API S-series licenses for gasoline engines, have found favor for flat tappet engines. Shell Rotella T oils contain approximately 1200 ppm zinc. At that level, Shell Rotella T Oils still have at least 50% more of these anti-wear additives as most current gasoline-only engine oils. These levels of zinc have historically offered good protection in flat tappet applications. Thank you for your interest in Shell Rotella Products! Regards, Edward Calcote Staff Chemist, Shell Lubricants US Technical Information Center http://www.rotella.com/ " From DLylis at aol.com Thu Apr 17 05:59:53 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 07:59:53 EDT Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again Message-ID: I suppose I could call and ask for myself, but given I am basically lazy, does anyone know what ppm results when you add the stuff Moss is now selling? They are saying to add 4 oz to 4 - 5 Qt oil sump. What if anything is the downside of too much ZDDP? David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From lang at isis.mit.edu Thu Apr 17 06:44:34 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 08:44:34 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Oil 'n' Zinc 'n' You In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Wed, 16 Apr 2008, JODY A MORRISON wrote: > FWIW department.... > >> From an advertisement in Classic Motorsport magazine: Penn Grade 1 motor oil. > SAE 20W-50 >> From Brad Penn....AKA, Brand Penn Racing, .... > www.bradpennracing.com > > Quoted from the ad...."If you are missing the ZINC ADDITIVE in your oil you > have found the answer. Highly recommended for use in air-cooled and other > classic and vintage engines using flat-tappet as well as roller cams. Our > unique cut from Penn Grade Crude and ZDDP makes the difference as confirmed by > a number of premier cam manufacturers". "The Green Oil"...not sure what that > means. The Green Oil is the color of the oil. It also happens to be the color of Kendall GT-1 "back in the day". Brad Penn and the old GT-1 are in fact the same thing. This is one of the good products to use. > Phone 814-368-1340 > NFI etc. etc. > > Larry M rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From rusd at sitestar.net Thu Apr 17 08:26:24 2008 From: rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 08:26:24 -0600 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48075E10.9000303@sitestar.net> If my calculations & the published information are correct -- One pint of the old GM EOS contains 0.71 % Zinc & Phosphorous by weight. Added to six quarts of oil, this comes out as 0.059% or 590 PPM increase. One 1/4 pint container of ZDDPlus (Moss) contains about 6.36 % Zinc & Phosphorus by weight, or 1.59% for one pint. Added to six quarts of oil, this comes out at 0.13% or 1300 PPM increase. Assuming that the accepted ZDDP MINIMUM requirement to protect non-roller cams is 1200 PPM, & the existing oil has NO ZDDP, Adding two pints of GM EOS would bring six quarts of oil which contains NO ZDDP up to 1180 PPM. Adding 1/4 pint of ZDDPlus would bring six quarts of oil which contains NO ZDDP up to 1300 PPM. If we believe some of the available published oil spec numbers (ever changing & conflicting) some oils still contain 800 PPM to 1200 PPM of ZDDP & would require less of either additive to make up the difference. Some brands such as Valvoline VR-1 still claim to contain 1200 PPM on certain oil grades. See next paragraph. Go here: http://www.api.org/certifications/engineoil/pubs/upload/1509_16thedition042007.pdf To complicate the issue, if you look here near the end of the document, & read between the lines, it seems to indicate that certain grades/weights of SM rated oils such as 20W-50 are somewhat exempt from the reduced Phosphorous-Zinc limitations. Only the "Energy Conserving" grades have the reduction. I note however that the published acceptable cam/lifter wear limits on test engines would still be too high for my comfort. This may explain why some companies such as Valvoline continue to claim that their "SM" rated 20W-50 and the heavier straight grade oils still contain adequate ZDDP for older flat tappet cams. It does seem strange that only certain grades of "SM" rated oils would have reduced ZDDP content, but this may be the case. I personally will continue to add ZDDP to any oil that has an SM rating. I don't think that there can be too much in the oil within reasonable limits. I would consider 2400 PPM as the upper limit. Dave Russell DLylis at aol.com wrote: >I suppose I could call and ask for myself, but given I am basically lazy, >does anyone know what ppm results when you add the stuff Moss is now selling? >They are saying to add 4 oz to 4 - 5 Qt oil sump. What if anything is the >downside of too much ZDDP? > >David Lylis >69 TR6 CC26160L >60 TR3A TS74461LO From glenn.rierson at verizon.net Thu Apr 17 10:05:42 2008 From: glenn.rierson at verizon.net (Glenn Rierson) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 11:05:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) Message-ID: <15408A214F2543D789E74BAC818147E9@GlennPC> Response to my VR1 ZDDP question to Valvoline. Glenn ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:12 AM Subject: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com Yes, the Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is SM rated, and still carries a 1300ppm amount of Zinc and 1200ppm amount of Phosphorus. The API SM has nothing to do with the ZDDP additives in oil, this proves that. The API SM just means that the oil is rated for gasoline engines. >>>> ---------------------------- >>>> From: tbcaudill at ashland.com >>>> Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:36:04 AM >>>> To: ValvTechLine at ashland.com >>>> CC: >>>> Subject: Site feedback from Valvoline.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- Forwarded by Timothy B Caudill/NAP/Valvoline/Ashland on >>>> 04/17/2008 >>>> 10:35 AM ----- >>>> >>>> From: Glenn Rierson on 04/17/2008 09:50 AM >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> To: VWEBMAIL at Ashland >>>> cc: >>>> >>>> Subject: Site feedback from Valvoline.com >>>> >>>> >>>> The following person submitted a question or comment via the Contact us >>>> form of type Ask Racing >>>> First Name: Glenn >>>> Last Name: Rierson >>>> Address1: 16805 Calumet Trail >>>> Address2: >>>> City: College Station >>>> State: TX >>>> Zip Code: 77845 >>>> Phone: 9796900776 >>>> >>>> Email Address: glenn.rierson at verizon.net >>>> >>>> Comments: >>>> >>>> Valvoline VR1 has an API rating of SM. The label on the container >>>> mentions >>>> ZDDP has been added to the oil for anti-wear. What is the PPM of the >>>> ZDDP >>>> in VR1. I have a '58 Triumph TR3A and a '70 Triumph TR6 that I am >>>> concerned about flat tappet wear and cam lobe failure. >>>> Thanks for your help. >>>> Glenn >>>> >>>> ______________________________________________________________________ This electronic mail may contain information that is privileged, proprietary and confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. This transmission is intended solely for the individual or entity designated above. If you are not the intended recipient, you should understand that any distribution, copying, or use of the information contained in this transmission by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized and strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender and destroy all copies which you may have of this communication. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.0/1383 - Release Date: 4/17/2008 9:00 AM From rpeglow at optonline.net Thu Apr 17 14:10:25 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 13:10:25 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Mobil Oil Chart Message-ID: <003a01c8a0c7$12cf4a10$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Mobil Oil types and ratings for Phosphorus etc. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob" To: "Glenn Rierson" ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 1:06 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) > Chart of Mobil Oils. > Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5W-40 has their highest phosphorus level 1300 > PPM, API SL > Shows SM oils are 1200 PPM or less. > > http://www.mobiloil.com/USA-English/MotorOil/Files/Mobil_1_Product_Guide.pdf > Regards, > Bob > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Glenn Rierson" > To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 9:05 AM > Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) > > > > Response to my VR1 ZDDP question to Valvoline. > > > > Glenn > > ----- Original Message ----- > > From: > > To: > > Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:12 AM > > Subject: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com > > > > > > Yes, the Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is SM rated, and still carries a 1300ppm > > amount of Zinc and 1200ppm amount of Phosphorus. The API SM has nothing > to > > do with the ZDDP additives in oil, this proves that. The API SM just > means > > that the oil is rated for gasoline engines. From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Thu Apr 17 11:52:52 2008 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 10:52:52 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) In-Reply-To: <15408A214F2543D789E74BAC818147E9@GlennPC> Message-ID: <346590.72462.qm@web33502.mail.mud.yahoo.com> That OUGHT to settle the issue, though there may be those who see conspiracies everywhere. Jim Glenn Rierson wrote: Response to my VR1 ZDDP question to Valvoline. Glenn ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:12 AM Subject: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com Yes, the Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is SM rated, and still carries a 1300ppm amount of Zinc and 1200ppm amount of Phosphorus. The API SM has nothing to do with the ZDDP additives in oil, this proves that. The API SM just means that the oil is rated for gasoline engines. >>>> ---------------------------- >>>> From: tbcaudill at ashland.com >>>> Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:36:04 AM >>>> To: ValvTechLine at ashland.com >>>> CC: >>>> Subject: Site feedback from Valvoline.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- Forwarded by Timothy B Caudill/NAP/Valvoline/Ashland on >>>> 04/17/2008 >>>> 10:35 AM ----- >>>> >>>> From: Glenn Rierson on 04/17/2008 09:50 AM >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> To: VWEBMAIL at Ashland >>>> cc: >>>> >>>> Subject: Site feedback from Valvoline.com >>>> >>>> >>>> The following person submitted a question or comment via the Contact us >>>> form of type Ask Racing >>>> First Name: Glenn >>>> Last Name: Rierson >>>> Address1: 16805 Calumet Trail >>>> Address2: >>>> City: College Station >>>> State: TX >>>> Zip Code: 77845 >>>> Phone: 9796900776 >>>> >>>> Email Address: glenn.rierson at verizon.net >>>> >>>> Comments: >>>> >>>> Valvoline VR1 has an API rating of SM. The label on the container >>>> mentions >>>> ZDDP has been added to the oil for anti-wear. What is the PPM of the >>>> ZDDP >>>> in VR1. I have a '58 Triumph TR3A and a '70 Triumph TR6 that I am >>>> concerned about flat tappet wear and cam lobe failure. >>>> Thanks for your help. >>>> Glenn >>>> >>>> ______________________________________________________________________ This electronic mail may contain information that is privileged, proprietary and confidential and/or exempt from disclosure under applicable law. This transmission is intended solely for the individual or entity designated above. If you are not the intended recipient, you should understand that any distribution, copying, or use of the information contained in this transmission by anyone other than the intended recipient is unauthorized and strictly prohibited. If you have received this electronic mail in error, please immediately notify the sender and destroy all copies which you may have of this communication. -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.0/1383 - Release Date: 4/17/2008 9:00 AM 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimjcmo at yahoo.com From rgperry at earthlink.net Thu Apr 17 12:20:16 2008 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 13:20:16 -0500 (GMT-05:00) Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) Message-ID: <1885774.1208456416790.JavaMail.root@elwamui-polski.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Jim, This confirms what I researched on my own that the 20W-50 wt oil does not neccesarly have lower amounts of ZDDP. If one thinks about it the vehicle manufacturers do not recommend 20w-50 wt oil for their current or recent models. Glenn, Thanks for letting the list know about Valvoline's response. Regards, Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: Jim Jones >That OUGHT to settle the issue, though there may be those who see conspiracies everywhere. > Jim >----- Original Message ----- >Yes, the Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is SM rated, and still carries a 1300ppm >amount of Zinc and 1200ppm amount of Phosphorus. The API SM has nothing to >do with the ZDDP additives in oil, this proves that. The API SM just means >that the oil is rated for gasoline engines. From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Thu Apr 17 16:16:29 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 16:16:29 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) Message-ID: <48086FCF@webmail.colostate.edu> The only issue I have with the 'site feedback' is the statement that "The API SM just means that the oil is rated for gasoline engines." If that were all it was meant for, then why does it change? If SM only meant 'for Gasoline engines' then why did it start at 'SA' and move up the alphabet (except for SI and SK). 'S' means for gasoline while 'M' identifies the current formulation requirements. I don't see a conspiracy, just a flippant response. Shawn >===== Original Message From Jim Jones ===== >That OUGHT to settle the issue, though there may be those who see conspiracies everywhere. > > Jim > >Glenn Rierson wrote: > Response to my VR1 ZDDP question to Valvoline. > >Glenn >----- Original Message ----- >From: >To: >Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:12 AM >Subject: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com > > >Yes, the Valvoline VR1 Racing Oil is SM rated, and still carries a 1300ppm >amount of Zinc and 1200ppm amount of Phosphorus. The API SM has nothing to >do with the ZDDP additives in oil, this proves that. The API SM just means >that the oil is rated for gasoline engines. > >>>> ---------------------------- >>>> From: tbcaudill at ashland.com >>>> Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 10:36:04 AM >>>> To: ValvTechLine at ashland.com >>>> CC: >>>> Subject: Site feedback from Valvoline.com >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> ----- Forwarded by Timothy B Caudill/NAP/Valvoline/Ashland on >>>> 04/17/2008 >>>> 10:35 AM ----- >>>> >>>> From: Glenn Rierson on 04/17/2008 09:50 AM >>>> >>>> >>>> >>>> To: VWEBMAIL at Ashland >>>> cc: >>>> >>>> Subject: Site feedback from Valvoline.com >>>> >>>> >>>> The following person submitted a question or comment via the Contact us >>>> form of type Ask Racing >>>> First Name: Glenn >>>> Last Name: Rierson >>>> Address1: 16805 Calumet Trail >>>> Address2: >>>> City: College Station >>>> State: TX >>>> Zip Code: 77845 >>>> Phone: 9796900776 >>>> >>>> Email Address: glenn.rierson at verizon.net >>>> >>>> Comments: >>>> >>>> Valvoline VR1 has an API rating of SM. The label on the container >>>> mentions >>>> ZDDP has been added to the oil for anti-wear. What is the PPM of the >>>> ZDDP >>>> in VR1. I have a '58 Triumph TR3A and a '70 Triumph TR6 that I am >>>> concerned about flat tappet wear and cam lobe failure. >>>> Thanks for your help. >>>> Glenn From nosto53 at yahoo.com Thu Apr 17 17:47:33 2008 From: nosto53 at yahoo.com (richard olson) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 16:47:33 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] 3000 rpm mixure adjust? Message-ID: <503621.85450.qm@web37506.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hi - I am trying this in team.net. I sent my email to the 6pack but no answers. Joe("the Man")Curto rebuilt my ZSs in Nov'07. Took 3 months to get then, so I have working on my '72 TR6 on: new distributor, hi-perf springs, shocks, f+r brakes, fixed my HVDA with new TO bearing and new Goodparts nylatror bushing and TA brackets. FUN! So now I want to just to put the carbs and drive. But... the car starts (happy me!), but the rear exhaust has smoke with black soot and smelling bad. So I'm trying to do the mixture adjust, choke, idle screw and air flow balancing. And I help questions --- (I got Bentley book, Haynes book, VTR maintain, Buckeye P2/P3 to use.) Q1: In Bentley and VTR: balancing air flow FIRST, next do mixture adjust. But a few emails in 6pack had mixture adjust FIRST, and next balancing? Which did? Q2: I am now trying to do the chokes. Joe Curto has got my ZSs adjust but the fast idle stop (the 'GAP' at the cam) has a 3/8" open. The car runs, but I thing the 'gap' is too big. So I did all Bentleys - with 5/16" and the fast idle stop is near the 'gap'. But now I starts the car and these rpms go to 3000 fast, and the chokes are died. Help!? Sorry my emails get longs been my stroke is to writing (reading is good!) I took 3 hours to write this. Thank you, Rick ('72 TR6) --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Apr 17 18:37:17 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 18:37:17 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) In-Reply-To: <48086FCF@webmail.colostate.edu> References: <48086FCF@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <4807ED3D.7030409@tscusa.org> Ratings for the API Service codes are here gents *http://tinyurl.com/6vwwl* Shawn J. Loseke wrote: > The only issue I have with the 'site feedback' is the statement that "The API > SM just means that the oil is rated for gasoline engines." If that were all it > was meant for, then why does it change? If SM only meant 'for Gasoline > engines' then why did it start at 'SA' and move up the alphabet (except for SI > and SK). 'S' means for gasoline while 'M' identifies the current formulation > requirements. I don't see a conspiracy, just a flippant response. > > > Shawn -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From DLylis at aol.com Thu Apr 17 20:12:57 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 22:12:57 EDT Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again Message-ID: Well, I got out of the Lazy Boy (Joking, I actually have a job) and researched this. Go to the Moss site and look up the ZDDPlus product they are now selling and go to the page for Q&A. There is some interesting stuff there (according to them). Here is a thumbnail sketch: 1. Diesel oil in a gas engine is not what you think it is. 2. Too much ZDDP is not a good thing. Engine damage from it caused a turn away from high ZDDP oils in the 70's. 3. If you want to prevent damage to your flat tappets, don't start your car. (wink) David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 21:40:39 2008 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 23:40:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] British Bash Message-ID: <008801c8a105$f9209670$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca> British Bash The 24th annual British Bash is coming June 6 & 7th! This plus the sunny weather, top down weather, driving weather is a big reason to get your car out and running... to sign up for Pre-Registration which ends in just 17 days! Pre-Registration BONUS ends soon! a.. Don't miss your chance to save up to 30% on your registration by entering now! b.. If you pre register you also receive a Dash Plaque, this is the ONLY way to get one! c.. No waiting in a registration line, drive in and enjoy the show, VIP service! d.. Register NOW online at www.BritishBash.com Featured Marque This years Featured Marque is Healey, featuring Austin Healey's, Jensen Healey's, Nash Healey and the Original Healey brand that started it all. Show within a Show: As a huge success the Bash last year featured it's first Show within a Show, with the gathering of the North American Spitfire Squadron. Due to the overwhelming success, this year the Jaguar Drivers Club Area 51 2008 Jaguar Concours will be held at this years Bash. So as an added bonus you get a show within a show! Don't sit on the side lines and let another year pass you by! Come support the British Bash, remember this benefits St. Joseph's Children's home and last year we raised over $4,000 for St. Joe's and the Children! Help us top it this year! For more info visit the website at www.BritishBash.com or contact Craig Holmes at: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net . . . . From cbhlouky at bellsouth.net Thu Apr 17 21:57:27 2008 From: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net (Craig) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 23:57:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] British Bash Message-ID: <00e601c8a108$518637a0$0201a8c0@home9cmfx9peca> British BashLocated in Louisville, Kentucky! ----- Original Message ----- From: Craig To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 11:40 PM Subject: [6pack]British Bash The 24th annual British Bash is coming June 6 & 7th! This plus the sunny weather, top down weather, driving weather is a big reason to get your car out and running... to sign up for Pre-Registration which ends in just 17 days! Pre-Registration BONUS ends soon! Don't miss your chance to save up to 30% on your registration by entering now! If you pre register you also receive a Dash Plaque, this is the ONLY way to get one! No waiting in a registration line, drive in and enjoy the show, VIP service! Register NOW online at www.BritishBash.com Featured Marque This years Featured Marque is Healey, featuring Austin Healey's, Jensen Healey's, Nash Healey and the Original Healey brand that started it all. Show within a Show: As a huge success the Bash last year featured it's first Show within a Show, with the gathering of the North American Spitfire Squadron. Due to the overwhelming success, this year the Jaguar Drivers Club Area 51 2008 Jaguar Concours will be held at this years Bash. So as an added bonus you get a show within a show! Don't sit on the side lines and let another year pass you by! Come support the British Bash, remember this benefits St. Joseph's Children's home and last year we raised over $4,000 for St. Joe's and the Children! Help us top it this year! For more info visit the website at www.BritishBash.com or contact Craig Holmes at: cbhlouky at bellsouth.net . . . . From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Thu Apr 17 23:30:00 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Thu, 17 Apr 2008 23:30:00 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Fw: Re:Site feedback from Valvoline.com (VR1 ZDDP query) Message-ID: <480B631F@webmail.colostate.edu> Ed, my "Why does it change?" was rhetorical. I'm up to speed on the API ratings. >===== Original Message From Ed Bratt ===== >Shawn: > >Gulf Oil has the answer to your question: > >6. What does the specification API stand for ? >API stands for the American Petroleum Institute. This body has specified the >performance standards that oils used in road vehicles should meet, notably >for cars and trucks made in the USA. For oils destined for use in passenger >car engines, the letters API are followed by a set of two letters such as >SJ, etc. This indicates the Service Level for passenger car oils. These >specified performance levels have evolved through the years, from API SA to >SM, in response to the changes in passenger car engine technology that, in >turn, has imposed ever more severe operating conditions on the oil to >achieve satisfactory lubrication. > > >The highest API for passenger car motor oils today is API-SM. > >Similarly, the API designates the performance of diesel engine oils with a >letter sequence such as API CF or API CH-4, and for automotive gear oils >they use API GL-4. > >The highest API for commercial engine oils (diesel oils) today is API CI-4 >Plus. > >7. How do I choose the right oil for my vehicle ? > >You should always consult the car or vehicle manual, issued by the original >manufacturer. There you will find the most suitable viscosity grade and >performance level. In some cases oils will be mentioned by name. > >Then, check the oil pack label to make sure you have the right viscosity >grade and that it at least meets the performance level. Note that for many >older vehicles the performance level recommended may now have been >superseded by newer specifications. > >_______________ > >And of course, these changing specifications from SA to SM were ALL done for >you the consumer, and to provide your car with the best lubrication >available--(or for some other reason). So you can try to obtain the oil >your car's manufaturer recommended, but cannot buy because the industry has >chosen not to provide it. > > > >> The only issue I have with the 'site feedback' is the statement that "The >> API >> SM just means that the oil is rated for gasoline engines." If that were >> all it >> was meant for, then why does it change? From gary.fluke at verizon.net Fri Apr 18 11:41:03 2008 From: gary.fluke at verizon.net (Gary Fluke) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:41:03 -0700 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again "Answer from STP" References: Message-ID: <001101c8a17b$5fdc94c0$4102a8c0@happycyajmv4pw> I contacted STP regarding their product, which I used. This is what they came back with: Dear Mr. Fluke, Thank you for contacting us about STP Oil Treatment. We always appreciate hearing from our consumers. I am unable to tell you how much zddp is in the oil treatment as it is proprietary. There is adaquate zddp in both the red bottle and the blue bottle for your tappats.Again, thank you for contacting us. Sincerely, Candy Thoma Consumer Response Representative Consumer Services ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 7:12 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] ZDDP again > Well, I got out of the Lazy Boy (Joking, I actually have a job) and > researched this. Go to the Moss site and look up the ZDDPlus product they > are now > selling and go to the page for Q&A. There is some interesting stuff > there > (according to them). Here is a thumbnail sketch: > 1. Diesel oil in a gas engine is not what you think it is. > 2. Too much ZDDP is not a good thing. Engine damage from it caused a > turn > away from high ZDDP oils in the 70's. > 3. If you want to prevent damage to your flat tappets, don't start your > car. (wink) > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used > car > listings at AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as gary.fluke at verizon.net From siberian at gmail.com Fri Apr 18 11:59:39 2008 From: siberian at gmail.com (John Armstrong) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 10:59:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Hard Top for sale - Must take car with it. Message-ID: <36e916ee0804181059i1449d575k2cfb1a7d82d2fe38@mail.gmail.com> Ok no one wants to buy my 1971 TR6, thats fine, I won't take it personally :) Probably because I never put a price on it. Lets do some marketing and sell the hardtop instead but you have to take the care with it when you go. If I can get $1000 for it that would be great. Thats $1000 for a really restorable Tr6, minor rush and with a hardtop! Come on folks, someone show up with a trailer and $1k and take her away before I have to drop her off at the scrap yard. We're moving in a few months and there just won't be space. the hard-top alone is almost worth that. John- From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Fri Apr 18 12:44:44 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 11:44:44 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Hard Top for sale - Must take car with it. In-Reply-To: <36e916ee0804181059i1449d575k2cfb1a7d82d2fe38@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <483345.67351.qm@web43136.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> And you just HAVE to be in California why? I mean you could be farther away...otherwise.... Cheers & good luck John Todd Bermudez Cincinnati, OH --- John Armstrong wrote: > Ok no one wants to buy my 1971 TR6, thats fine, I > won't take it > personally :) Probably because I never put a price > on it. Lets do some > marketing and sell the hardtop instead but you have > to take the care > with it when you go. > > If I can get $1000 for it that would be great. > > Thats $1000 for a really restorable Tr6, minor rush > and with a hardtop! > > Come on folks, someone show up with a trailer and > $1k and take her > away before I have to drop her off at the scrap > yard. We're moving in > a few months and there just won't be space. the > hard-top alone is > almost worth that. > > John- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From Lfm614 at aol.com Fri Apr 18 13:10:18 2008 From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 15:10:18 EDT Subject: [6pack] ZDDP again "Answer from STP" Message-ID: Cute, didn't know I had tappats. You would think it would be on the label since zddp cannot be used on engines with catalytic converters because it causes plugging and premature failure and the EPA and car manufacturers that have to warrant them longer would want to know. Kind of like the peanut disclaimer on food for those allergic I would think. Sounds like a blow off from an uninformed marketing person to me. Lou In a message dated 4/18/2008 12:56:09 P.M. Central Daylight Time, gary.fluke at verizon.net writes: I contacted STP regarding their product, which I used. This is what they came back with: Dear Mr. Fluke, Thank you for contacting us about STP Oil Treatment. We always appreciate hearing from our consumers. I am unable to tell you how much zddp is in the oil treatment as it is proprietary. There is adequate zddp in both the red bottle and the blue bottle for your tappats.Again, thank you for contacting us. Sincerely, Candy Thoma Consumer Response Representative Consumer Services ----- Original Message ----- From: To: Cc: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 7:12 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] ZDDP again > Well, I got out of the Lazy Boy (Joking, I actually have a job) and > researched this. Go to the Moss site and look up the ZDDPlus product they > are now > selling and go to the page for Q&A. There is some interesting stuff > there > (according to them). Here is a thumbnail sketch: > 1. Diesel oil in a gas engine is not what you think it is. > 2. Too much ZDDP is not a good thing. Engine damage from it caused a > turn > away from high ZDDP oils in the 70's. > 3. If you want to prevent damage to your flat tappets, don't start your > car. (wink) > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used > car > listings at AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as gary.fluke at verizon.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From Lfm614 at aol.com Fri Apr 18 14:07:53 2008 From: Lfm614 at aol.com (Lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 16:07:53 EDT Subject: [6pack] WRT Townsend TN HOTRES... Message-ID: Steve, I am signed up for a room and plan on bringing my spouse and 16 year old assistant mechanic While I agree with you, I am considering the views of significant others. Us boys can spend the night in a tent, its the ladies that may have issues with the accommodations. Since I believe that the club would like to encourage and increase SO participation I would recommend that Mark make a trip over there (if he hasn't done so since the reviews) and see the rooms, conference room,etc first hand and discuss the reviews with the manager to feel comfortable that the right choice was made and report back on his findings. There is still time to change the hotel if it is warranted. MHO, Lou In a message dated 4/14/2008 11:51:57 P.M. Central Daylight Time, triumph72 at juno.com writes: The 6-PACK list... IMHO, The object of the TRIALS is to have a good time together...to share the parking lot, the hotel and the hospitality suite...to have time together as a club... The sponsoring club didn't go to all the work of organizing the TRIALS at the venue of their choosing to not be supported by the attending 6-PACKers...support your local and national TR6 club... That's why we are 6-PACK (and not some other TR club)... I'll apologize if I misinterpreted the intent of the site link... Yours in Triumphs and 6-PACK... Steve _____________________________________________________________ Shop & save on all of the office supplies you need. Click now! http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3n4JaFqg9ZPfCAr4vlIu3jfAdui Gn2Zr1ElcWxUejoU2Mxqx/ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From john.zimmerman at dpg.com Fri Apr 18 14:37:01 2008 From: john.zimmerman at dpg.com (Zimmerman, John) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 16:37:01 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Back Up Light Harness Message-ID: <405343C178A346429568D924D6A4E688014FBAFF@stvexch1.vandorn.dpg.com> Any idea where I can get the harness for the back up light on a '76 TR6? The big three show it as not available. Any chance I can find a good used one somewhere? Thanks in advance, John Zimmerman Traffic Supervisor Demag Plastics Group 11792 Alameda Drive Strongsville, Ohio 44149-3011 Phone: (440).876.6251 Fax: (440) 876.6428 email: john.zimmerman at dpg.com From mbullard at hawaii.rr.com Fri Apr 18 16:27:43 2008 From: mbullard at hawaii.rr.com (Mark) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 12:27:43 -1000 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Hard Top for sale - Must take car with it. References: <483345.67351.qm@web43136.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000e01c8a1a3$6c4547c0$6401a8c0@PamHome> My heart bleeds for you Todd... Mark Bullard '74 TR6 Kailua, HI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bermudez" To: "John Armstrong" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 8:44 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Tr6 Hard Top for sale - Must take car with it. > And you just HAVE to be in California why? I mean you > could be farther away...otherwise.... > > Cheers & good luck John > > Todd Bermudez > Cincinnati, OH > > --- John Armstrong wrote: > >> Ok no one wants to buy my 1971 TR6, thats fine, I >> won't take it >> personally :) Probably because I never put a price >> on it. Lets do some >> marketing and sell the hardtop instead but you have >> to take the care >> with it when you go. >> >> If I can get $1000 for it that would be great. >> >> Thats $1000 for a really restorable Tr6, minor rush >> and with a hardtop! >> >> Come on folks, someone show up with a trailer and >> $1k and take her >> away before I have to drop her off at the scrap >> yard. We're moving in >> a few months and there just won't be space. the >> hard-top alone is >> almost worth that. >> >> John- From siberian at gmail.com Fri Apr 18 17:08:35 2008 From: siberian at gmail.com (John Armstrong) Date: Fri, 18 Apr 2008 16:08:35 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Tr6 Hard Top for sale - Must take car with it. In-Reply-To: <000e01c8a1a3$6c4547c0$6401a8c0@PamHome> References: <483345.67351.qm@web43136.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> <000e01c8a1a3$6c4547c0$6401a8c0@PamHome> Message-ID: <36e916ee0804181608wbfb79ccj62fc176fb0d105fa@mail.gmail.com> Hey it would be a great story for 6-pack! :) John- On Fri, Apr 18, 2008 at 3:27 PM, Mark wrote: > My heart bleeds for you Todd... > > Mark Bullard > '74 TR6 > Kailua, HI > ----- Original Message ----- From: "Todd Bermudez" > To: "John Armstrong" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Friday, April 18, 2008 8:44 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] Tr6 Hard Top for sale - Must take car with it. > > > > And you just HAVE to be in California why? I mean you > > could be farther away...otherwise.... > > > > Cheers & good luck John > > > > Todd Bermudez > > Cincinnati, OH > > > > > > --- John Armstrong wrote: > > > > > > > Ok no one wants to buy my 1971 TR6, thats fine, I > > > won't take it > > > personally :) Probably because I never put a price > > > on it. Lets do some > > > marketing and sell the hardtop instead but you have > > > to take the care > > > with it when you go. > > > > > > If I can get $1000 for it that would be great. > > > > > > Thats $1000 for a really restorable Tr6, minor rush > > > and with a hardtop! > > > > > > Come on folks, someone show up with a trailer and > > > $1k and take her > > > away before I have to drop her off at the scrap > > > yard. We're moving in > > > a few months and there just won't be space. the > > > hard-top alone is > > > almost worth that. > > > > > > John- From apackard68 at comcast.net Sun Apr 20 00:19:50 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net) Date: Sat, 19 Apr 2008 23:19:50 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Interesting TR250 Body Repair Sequence Message-ID: <200804200619.m3K6JpVV021961@upsa-web122.ofoto.com> The top of the L quarter panel of my TR250 had some rust issues. The story is that it sat under an awning in the 70's with the L rear sticking out of the cover, allowing rain to run off the awning onto the same area for an prolonged period. The 1/4 had been replaced with body work in 1981, but it was with an aftermarket part. It looked okay from a distance, but did not fit very well when looking closely at door gaps and fit of the rear taillight fixture. I am replacing the porly fitted aftermarket 1/4 that was on the car with an used OEM part. I also decided to replace two pieces along the top edge due to uncovered rust damage, until removal of those two pieces exposed more damage to the inner fender than expected. These pictures show the sequence of disassembly, evaluation and repair with new metal. Sometimes one has to take two steps back in order to take 3 steps forward. Andy You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.4rwsp57z&x=0&y=r8ktph&localeid=en_US If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.4rwsp57z&x=0&y=r8ktph&localeid=en_US From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Apr 20 07:21:21 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 09:21:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] click adjust Message-ID: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> morning all, there was an article/reference to a new tool called ' click adjust' (i think), used to adjust valve clearance. ideas to info about the tool, anyone used one, rants or raves. TIA randy sandner From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 20 07:25:08 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 06:25:08 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] click adjust In-Reply-To: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> Message-ID: <413893.3826.qm@web82803.mail.mud.yahoo.com> its not a new tool; i've had one for 5? years. its helpful in adjusting valves; one tool that has both the screwdriver and socket. its not "the greatest thing since sliced bread" but its a nice tool to have. j randolph sandner wrote: morning all, there was an article/reference to a new tool called ' click adjust' (i think), used to adjust valve clearance. ideas to info about the tool, anyone used one, rants or raves. TIA randy sandner From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 20 07:25:13 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 06:25:13 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] click adjust In-Reply-To: <75EC8B32C44C45578392A170B1E3A5CA@randyPC> Message-ID: <868489.2485.qm@web82806.mail.mud.yahoo.com> its not a new tool; i've had one for 5? years. its helpful in adjusting valves; one tool that has both the screwdriver and socket. its not "the greatest thing since sliced bread" but its a nice tool to have. j randolph sandner wrote: morning all, there was an article/reference to a new tool called ' click adjust' (i think), used to adjust valve clearance. ideas to info about the tool, anyone used one, rants or raves. TIA randy sandner From apackard68 at comcast.net Sun Apr 20 10:17:47 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 09:17:47 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Interesting TR250 Body Repair Sequence In-Reply-To: <08377C90-E909-48EF-82DC-A25BCEFB4DDE@mindspring.com> Message-ID: <20080420172014.5EB6818767B@autox.team.net> All my body repairs are being done at a local restoration shop. The essential ingredients I've brought are the willingness to take my car all the way apart and $$ to keep the repairs moving forward! Andy -----Original Message----- From: Ashford Little [mailto:70tr6 at mindspring.com] Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 5:29 AM To: apackard68 at comcast.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Interesting TR250 Body Repair Sequence Awesome stuff Andy! I wish I possessed some of the essential ingredients to make repairs like that. Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 On Apr 20, 2008, at 2:19 AM, apackard68 at comcast.net wrote: > The top of the L quarter panel of my TR250 had some rust issues. > The story is that it sat under an awning in the 70's with the L rear > sticking out of the cover, allowing rain to run off the awning onto > the same area for an prolonged period. The 1/4 had been replaced > with body work in 1981, but it was with an aftermarket part. It > looked okay from a distance, but did not fit very well when looking > closely at door gaps and fit of the rear taillight fixture. I am > replacing the porly fitted aftermarket 1/4 that was on the car with > an used OEM part. I also decided to replace two pieces along the > top edge due to uncovered rust damage, until removal of those two > pieces exposed more damage to the inner fender than expected. These > pictures show the sequence of disassembly, evaluation and repair > with new metal. Sometimes one has to take two steps back in order > to take 3 steps forward. Andy > > > You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! > Just click on View Photos to get started. > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.4rwsp57z&x=0&y=r8ktph&localeid=e n_US > If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or > if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've > signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want > and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. > > Enjoy! > Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're > an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can > join the Gallery for free. > http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp > > Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team > Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada > > ------------------------------------------------------------ > > > > > If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the > following URL directly into your browser: > http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.4rwsp57z&x=0&y=r8ktph&localeid=e n_US > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 70tr6 at mindspring.com From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Apr 20 11:12:44 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 13:12:44 -0400 Subject: [6pack] click adjust Message-ID: <6DE6CABCEB7C495A8BF4F071A93566CA@randyPC> list probably should have also asked: where can i get one, aprox cost? thanks randy sandner From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Apr 20 11:24:21 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 13:24:21 -0400 Subject: [6pack] MOMO Instrument repair Message-ID: <000b01c8a30b$609d04d0$6601a8c0@Robert> Hi everyone. Interesting situation happened this week. I found out from my parts supplier, that Margaret Lucas of MOMO in Albuquerque, NM. is no longer doing the average Lucas or Smiths instrument repair, as she is a full year behind in the Ferrari and high end expensive cars instruments only. She said they are paying way over top dollar to have them done, so that's all she is doing. Wow, and for all the years of sending my units to her for repair through my parts supplier! This sucks. Can anyone recommend who else does a great job. I have a 1949 Triumph Mayflower temp unit to be repaired. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Apr 20 12:17:33 2008 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 14:17:33 -0400 Subject: [6pack] ZS 175 Message-ID: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> afternoon to all, my carb bowl is leaking at the plug on the bottom. i have the new o-ring. is it possible to gently pry out the plug w/o breaking off the fingers, renewing the o-ring , and push the plug back in? Or do i have to remove bowl, and 'close the fingers' from inside? thanks randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sun Apr 20 13:22:31 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 14:22:31 -0500 Subject: [6pack] tops References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> Message-ID: <000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local> the Moss sale catalog just showed up, and i've been thinking of getting a new top (whew - they are expensive!!!) i'm not concerned about "stock" appearances, so the reflective strip is not a necessity, but i really like the zip out window. (Wouldn't zip out corner windows be fun!) i see "tr6 OEM" for $429, Robbins sun-fast for $579, and Robbins vinyl for $294. or is there something better out there? i am wondering which top will last the longest. car stays either garaged or in the semi garage (4 car carport with three sides), and gets driven about 5000 miles per year in texas, so the top is down a lot. i'd appreciate your thoughts! From pbeckman at ameritech.net Sun Apr 20 15:21:59 2008 From: pbeckman at ameritech.net (Phil Beckman) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 16:21:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair Message-ID: <919AAFC30E1744F583605D8D1AF4C12D@motown.com> So I took the TR6 out of storage yesterday and as I walked past the front of the car after a short drive I heard an ominous hissing noise. Further inspection revealed that the seam at the top of the radiator is leaking. Guess its time to pull the radiator and send it out for repair. There's a place nearby that supposedly does good work. I assume the best way to accomplish this is to drain the radiator into a catch basin of some sort and then simply unbolt it. Only thing I don't know is the capacity of the radiator. How big of a catch basin am I going to need? What's the best way to dispose of all the used anti-freeze? Thanks Phil '73 TR6 Libertyville, IL From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Apr 20 15:36:28 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 17:36:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] tops In-Reply-To: <000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local> References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> <000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <000701c8a32e$985d8cf0$6601a8c0@Robert> Try these. $269 http://www.aabestco.com $369 with reflective tape. NFI Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Apr 20 16:19:41 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 22:19:41 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair In-Reply-To: <919AAFC30E1744F583605D8D1AF4C12D@motown.com> References: <919AAFC30E1744F583605D8D1AF4C12D@motown.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8148D9@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Phil, if you pull the bottom hose to drain the rad you will need to accommodate most of the fluid from the cooling system. I don't know what the actual capacity is but I use one of those low profile oil change containers and would expect a couple of gallons to be enough. If you leave the bottom hose in place but loose enough to drain you can use it as a valve... If you keep things clean you should be able to pour it back in when you get the rad back from repair. If I need to dispose of oil, paint, brake fluid etc I have to buffer it until our town toxic waste disposal day in may. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Phil Beckman Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 5:22 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair So I took the TR6 out of storage yesterday and as I walked past the front of the car after a short drive I heard an ominous hissing noise. Further inspection revealed that the seam at the top of the radiator is leaking. Guess its time to pull the radiator and send it out for repair. There's a place nearby that supposedly does good work. I assume the best way to accomplish this is to drain the radiator into a catch basin of some sort and then simply unbolt it. Only thing I don't know is the capacity of the radiator. How big of a catch basin am I going to need? What's the best way to dispose of all the used anti-freeze? Thanks Phil '73 TR6 Libertyville, IL From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 20 16:23:04 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:23:04 -0400 Subject: [6pack] tops In-Reply-To: <000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local> References: <000201c89c9c$1fa33500$0202a8c0@jerrysoffice> <000201c8a31b$e2562500$8115a8c0@garage.local> Message-ID: <000301c8a335$1c91a3c0$210110ac@bobspc> Oliver, I got my mohair top from Prestige in England (http://tinyurl.com/44blae) Pretty good price and the quality has held up for the past 8 years. Like yours, mine spends a lot of time down but that's because I hate driving with the top up. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 3:23 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] tops the Moss sale catalog just showed up, and i've been thinking of getting a new top (whew - they are expensive!!!) i'm not concerned about "stock" appearances, so the reflective strip is not a necessity, but i really like the zip out window. (Wouldn't zip out corner windows be fun!) i see "tr6 OEM" for $429, Robbins sun-fast for $579, and Robbins vinyl for $294. or is there something better out there? i am wondering which top will last the longest. car stays either garaged or in the semi garage (4 car carport with three sides), and gets driven about 5000 miles per year in texas, so the top is down a lot. i'd appreciate your thoughts! 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 4/19/2008 11:31 AM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 20 16:25:31 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:25:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] ZS 175 In-Reply-To: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> References: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB@randyPC> Message-ID: <000401c8a335$746242d0$210110ac@bobspc> Randy, I don't recall seeing any fingers on the plug on my ZS carbs.......or are you talking about all the little metal prongs that go around the plug? The last time I drained the bowl I just pried them out and then pressed them back in. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of j randolph sandner Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 2:18 PM To: 6pack Cc: tr6 Subject: [TR] ZS 175 afternoon to all, my carb bowl is leaking at the plug on the bottom. i have the new o-ring. is it possible to gently pry out the plug w/o breaking off the fingers, renewing the o-ring , and push the plug back in? Or do i have to remove bowl, and 'close the fingers' from inside? thanks randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 4/19/2008 11:31 AM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Apr 20 16:29:19 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:29:19 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair In-Reply-To: <919AAFC30E1744F583605D8D1AF4C12D@motown.com> References: <919AAFC30E1744F583605D8D1AF4C12D@motown.com> Message-ID: <000501c8a335$fba88a60$210110ac@bobspc> Phil, There's maybe a gallon in the radiator. On my previous radiator, I'd just loosen the bottom hose and let it leak out. If you're having a shop boil it out and repair the leak, you might want to consider having a bung soldered in for a petcock. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Phil Beckman Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 5:22 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair So I took the TR6 out of storage yesterday and as I walked past the front of the car after a short drive I heard an ominous hissing noise. Further inspection revealed that the seam at the top of the radiator is leaking. Guess its time to pull the radiator and send it out for repair. There's a place nearby that supposedly does good work. I assume the best way to accomplish this is to drain the radiator into a catch basin of some sort and then simply unbolt it. Only thing I don't know is the capacity of the radiator. How big of a catch basin am I going to need? What's the best way to dispose of all the used anti-freeze? Thanks Phil '73 TR6 Libertyville, IL 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 4/19/2008 11:31 AM From Pimento73 at aol.com Sun Apr 20 17:30:29 2008 From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:30:29 EDT Subject: [6pack] WRT Townsend TN HOTRES... Message-ID: In a message dated 4/15/2008 12:51:45 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, triumph72 at juno.com writes: The sponsoring club didn't go to all the work of organizing the TRIALS at the venue of their choosing to not be supported by the attending 6-PACKers...support your local and national TR6 club... That's why we are 6-PACK (and not some other TR club)... RIDICULOUS - If there is some issue with the hotel, i think the hosts would rather investigate and resolve it NOW rather than have disappointed guests at the event. Would you rather people just read the reviews and decide not to risk attending ? If my wife walks into a hotel room with mold and mildew in it, i'm afraid I'd have to check out and find another hotel. - and why don't you specify what "other TR club" you look down on - if its a club I'm a member of, maybe i shouldn't offend you with my presence at The Trials. Cheers, Jack Mc **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Sun Apr 20 18:55:47 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 18:55:47 -0600 Subject: [6pack] ZS 175 Message-ID: <480D9BE4@webmail.colostate.edu> Its worth it to take the time and remove the float bowl. I have sucessfully pulled the plastic plug out, but anymore I err on the side of caution. Shawn >===== Original Message From "j randolph sandner" ===== >afternoon to all, >my carb bowl is leaking at the plug on the bottom. >i have the new o-ring. >is it possible to gently pry out the plug w/o breaking off the fingers, >renewing the o-ring , and push the plug back in? >Or do i have to remove bowl, and 'close the fingers' from inside? >thanks >randy sandner >74.5 tr6 >hickory nc Shawn J. Loseke Fort Collins, CO http://www.triumphowners.com/79 (1972 TR6) http://www.triumphowners.com/690 (1978 TR8) From rnorris1 at swbell.net Sun Apr 20 19:09:49 2008 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 20:09:49 -0500 Subject: [6pack] ZS 175 Float Plugs Message-ID: <480BE95D.7020202@swbell.net> I did not trust the original plastic plugs in my ZS's when I rebuilt them so I ordered replacements from either Moss or Vicky Brit, can't recall. The old ones I just pried out with a small screwdriver and popped the new ones which included new O-rings in their places. I feel better now! Rick Norris From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Apr 20 19:29:45 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 19:29:45 -0600 Subject: [6pack] STTAG Restoration Team pulls the FULL MONTY! Message-ID: <480BEE09.6050806@tscusa.org> Hi All, As I await current status from the STTAG Restoration Team, last weekend 12th & 13th April 2008, the STTAG teams did the FULL MONTY! Yes, the chassis is now fully stripped down, Completely naked of all components, all undercoating is removed and the paint is being peeled just like so many dirty clothes down to the bare skin. Also, we have the 4 Speed J OD conversion parts in the freight to the Hampshire Quarter Horse and Triumph Farm, along with a set of Super Flex bushings and professionally rebuilt starter. Next, sourcing the remaining new parts to keep this restoration rolling ahead of schedule! There is a brief update on the TTA web site http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk/ Visit now and even sign up to receive notices as the site changes with new information - http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/mailman/listinfo/triumphtrans-americainfo_triumphtransamerica.org.uk Even live RSS Feeds! http://triumphtransamerica.org.uk/?feed=rss2 -- Glenn A. Merrell TTA 2009 Charity Drive Coordination Team The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From rivers2hills at yahoo.com Sun Apr 20 22:14:47 2008 From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com (John Summers) Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 21:14:47 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] noises&sounds Message-ID: <974058.84611.qm@web36202.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Hey guys. What does a throw out bearing sound like when you aren't supposed to hear it? I hear something when the clutch is depressed. Depressed,,,,,God, it has taken on my mental illness! Transference of spirits! What are the impossible(for me to do) steps involved to fix it. It may be time to Join bowtieSix. John Summers '74 TR6 ,,,,that would be 34 years old,,,,, ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From DLylis at aol.com Mon Apr 21 05:51:54 2008 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 07:51:54 EDT Subject: [6pack] noises&sounds Message-ID: A squeal. If you gently press down on the clutch pedal until there is resistance you can actually tell when the TO bearing makes contact with the fingers, as it squeals. Let it up and it stops, do it again and it starts. A TO bearing CAN (not will) actually live quite a while in that condition, not counting, of course, the embarrassment factor, as people turn to look. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Apr 21 06:41:34 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 12:41:34 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Message-ID: Team, Doesn't somebody make & sell the bracket to put Miata seats in a Six? Sloane :) _________________________________________________________________ More immediate than e-mail? Get instant access with Windows Live Messenger. http://www.windowslive.com/messenger/overview.html?ocid=TXT_TAGLM_WL_Refresh_ instantaccess_042008 From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 21 09:18:20 2008 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 08:18:20 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] noises&sounds In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <158482.9081.qm@web43136.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> I just tell everyone there are crickets in my car My UNpreloaded Gunst bearing did that with a Borg & Beck Pressure plate...so did Greg Donegan...he changed his pressure plate to a Sachs...no squeals...I didn't...I still had squeals...sold the car...bought another TRiumph...it squeals too And thus continues the never ending debate about PPs Cheers, Todd --- DLylis at aol.com wrote: > A squeal. If you gently press down on the clutch > pedal until there is > resistance you can actually tell when the TO bearing > makes contact with the > fingers, as it squeals. Let it up and it stops, do > it again and it starts. A TO > bearing CAN (not will) actually live quite a while > in that condition, not > counting, of course, the embarrassment factor, as > people turn to look. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest > site for U.S. used car > listings at AOL Autos. > (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From trguy at cfl.rr.com Mon Apr 21 11:07:36 2008 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 13:07:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] ZS 175 Message-ID: <20080421170729.BBET11174.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> Randy: The fuel bowl plugs are easy to break, especially considering how long they have been in there. I would recommend pulling the bowl to remove. It makes it easier to see the pieces that clamp on the metal bowl for removal. My recommendation is to replace the TR6 fuel bowls with TR7 ZS 175 fuel bowls since they do not have a plug in the bottom. Hence, one less thing to worry about. TR7 carbs are a dime a dozen and I get them for that very reason. Sorry, but I don't have any extras right now. Cheers, Jim Henningsen 75 TR5 CF35914U Maitland, FL Message: 3 Date: Sun, 20 Apr 2008 14:17:33 -0400 From: "j randolph sandner" Subject: [6pack] ZS 175 To: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Cc: tr6 Message-ID: <6C5723019E0B46EB9B875882847548CB at randyPC> Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=original afternoon to all, my carb bowl is leaking at the plug on the bottom. i have the new o-ring. is it possible to gently pry out the plug w/o breaking off the fingers, renewing the o-ring , and push the plug back in? Or do i have to remove bowl, and 'close the fingers' from inside? thanks randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc From PeterSchop at aol.com Mon Apr 21 12:08:27 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:08:27 EDT Subject: [6pack] Armstrong shock oil Message-ID: I have the rear shocks off the Six and want to replace the oil in them. What is recommended for use in the lever shocks? A single or multi weight? I remember in an earlier thread someone recommended going to the local Harley shop for shock oil. TIA, Peter Schoppelry '69 TR6 **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Apr 21 12:27:19 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 11:27:19 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Older Oil In-Reply-To: 's message of Mon, 21 Apr 2008 09:26:46 -0500 Message-ID: <21367-480CDC87-3206@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> List---More info on the modern oil with reduced zddp. Looks like it's OK, with the included exception. Read on... Dick Sender: robert.montgomery at shell.com () From: PrdMktTechServices at shell.com() , Subject: RE: Older Oil Dear Consumers, Thank you for your inquiry. With the introduction of API "SM" quality motor oils, the zddp anti-wear additive was reduced by approximately 25%. The anti-wear levels of "SM" oils will properly protect most engines with "flat tappet" followers. The exception would be engines that have very high lift cams along with very high tension valve springs. For this type of application I would recommend using an API "SL" rated oil, a diesel engine oil rated at API CJ-4, or for racing enthusiast the Pennzoil 25W-50 Racing Motor Oil. Best Regards, Technical Service -----Original Message----- From: Sally or Dick Taylor [mailto:tr6taylor at webtv.net] Sent: Thursday, April 17, 2008 8:20 PM To: PrdMktTechServices, SLUBE-OGML/1 Subject: Older Oil I'm concerned about what appears to be the decrease in the amount of Zinc and Phosphate in the modern SM oils. Altho your site says that the SM includes all of the properties of the older oils, others say that this ZP additive has ben greatly reduced in favor of longer catalitic converter life. Having a classic flat tappet engine, should I be worried? Thanks! Dick Taylor 73 TR6 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Apr 21 12:45:41 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 11:45:41 -0700 Subject: [6pack] noises&sounds In-Reply-To: John Summers 's message of Sun, 20 Apr 2008 21:14:47 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <21366-480CE0D5-6379@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> John---When you're 34, you get to squeal. When you're many years older, you get to remember what that was like. Meanwhile, if what you're hearing is the throwout bearing, it could sound like a chirp as it makes contact with the clutch. If it gets louder with heavier contact, the bearing is in it's last throes of service. If the chirp goes away and becomes a squeal, the bearing could last for quite a while longer, if you could stand it. (I never would, or could) If you replace this bearing, remember to center the bell housing to the engine backplate with the two 3/8 inch bolts, or dowels. Forgetting this important step could lead to another noise that sounds the same, as the bearing could spin in a slghtly different circle than the clutch. Dick From: rivers2hills at yahoo.com(John Summers) Hey guys. What does a throw out bearing sound like when you aren't supposed to hear it? I hear something when the clutch is depressed. Depressed,,,,,God, it has taken on my mental illness! Transference of spirits! What are the impossible(for me to do) steps involved to fix it. It may be time to Join bowtieSix. John Summers '74 TR6 ,,,,that would be 34 years old,,,,, __________________________________ From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Apr 21 12:54:28 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 14:54:28 EDT Subject: [6pack] Armstrong shock oil Message-ID: Motorcycle racing shock oil seems to work fine for TR4 #197. I suspect that I will put this in the TR3A street, as I about ready to replace them. Joe A > I have the rear shocks off the Six and want to replace the oil in them. > What > is recommended for use in the lever shocks? A single or multi weight? I > remember in an earlier thread someone recommended going to the local Harley > shop > for shock oil. > > TIA, > Peter Schoppelry > '69 TR6 > From Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu Mon Apr 21 13:53:23 2008 From: Michael_Corbitt at ous.edu (Corbitt, Michael) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 12:53:23 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Message-ID: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF41D@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Sloane, When I did the research on mine, there was a place in the UK that advertised these. This was the link I used, but now it seems to be under construction. http://www.rmrengineering.co.uk/ I ended up having mine made by a local fabricator and was quite pleased with the result. If I recall, I got the specs from Mark Pruitt's web site. www.marks-tr6-garage.com Mike Corvallis, OR From j.honor at comcast.net Mon Apr 21 16:06:32 2008 From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:06:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Message-ID: <042120082206.3617.480D0FE80002E93600000E2122007510909D01020108D206@comcast.net> I've performed miata transformation-purely wonderful, ergonomicly great!looks there also; go to www.marks-tr6-garage,com; shipped from UK -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Corbitt, Michael" > Sloane, > > When I did the research on mine, there was a place in the UK that > advertised these. This was the link I used, but now it seems to be > under construction. > > http://www.rmrengineering.co.uk/ > > I ended up having mine made by a local fabricator and was quite pleased > with the result. If I recall, I got the specs from Mark Pruitt's web > site. > > www.marks-tr6-garage.com > > Mike > Corvallis, OR > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as j.honor at comcast.net From j.honor at comcast.net Mon Apr 21 16:09:41 2008 From: j.honor at comcast.net (j.honor at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:09:41 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair Message-ID: <042120082209.6998.480D10A5000CA0F100001B5622007510909D01020108D206@comcast.net> other than repalcing entire radiator with TRF aluminum ever hear of uprated core replacement with new modern design? -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Phil, > There's maybe a gallon in the radiator. On my previous radiator, I'd just > loosen the bottom hose and let it leak out. If you're having a shop boil it > out and repair the leak, you might want to consider having a bung soldered > in for a petcock. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Phil Beckman > Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 5:22 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair > > So I took the TR6 out of storage yesterday and as I walked past the front of > the car after a short drive I heard an ominous hissing noise. Further > inspection revealed that the seam at the top of the radiator is leaking. > Guess its time to pull the radiator and send it out for repair. There's a > place nearby that supposedly does good work. > > > > I assume the best way to accomplish this is to drain the radiator into a > catch basin of some sort and then simply unbolt it. Only thing I don't know > is the capacity of the radiator. How big of a catch basin am I going to > need? > What's the best way to dispose of all the used anti-freeze? > > > > Thanks > > > > Phil > > > > '73 TR6 > > Libertyville, IL > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this > incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: 4/19/2008 > 11:31 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as j.honor at comcast.net From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 21 16:24:43 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 22:24:43 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF41D@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> References: <2E09C5AF30306D43BDB6A47153005222016FF41D@NWS-EXCH3.nws.oregonstate.edu> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA8148F7@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I made my own using the same design as Mark P which comes from the How to improve your TR6 book by Roger Williams. Just simple steel plate and angle iron, a local fabricator should be able to make them in under an hour. The one change I made was to lower the front brackets to be the same height as the rear. I didnt like the feel of the seat under my legs with the original dimensions but that may be just a personal thing. http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversio n/ Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, Michael Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 3:53 PM To: im_sloane at hotmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Sloane, When I did the research on mine, there was a place in the UK that advertised these. This was the link I used, but now it seems to be under construction. http://www.rmrengineering.co.uk/ I ended up having mine made by a local fabricator and was quite pleased with the result. If I recall, I got the specs from Mark Pruitt's web site. www.marks-tr6-garage.com Mike Corvallis, OR 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Apr 21 17:00:39 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 19:00:39 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Message-ID: <771A1C93.5A8C19B8.00159EE9@cs.com> If someone would draw up the plates needed, including the holes, they could be done on production equipment in stainless steel. If someone is interested in pursuing this, contact me. I've seen a couple of conversions. Very nice and worthwhile....anyone do this conversion for the TR4 Joe A. >I made my own using the same design as Mark P which comes from the How to >improve your TR6 book by Roger Williams. Just simple steel plate and angle >iron, a local fabricator should be able to make them in under an hour. The >one change I made was to lower the front brackets to be the same height as the >rear. I didnt like the feel of the seat under my legs with the original >dimensions but that may be just a personal thing. > > >http://s38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/TR6/Miata%20Seat%20Conversio >n/ > >Stan > >-----Original Message----- >From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net >[mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Corbitt, >Michael >Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 3:53 PM >To: im_sloane at hotmail.com; 6pack at autox.team.net >Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata seat bracket > >Sloane, > >When I did the research on mine, there was a place in the UK that >advertised these. This was the link I used, but now it seems to be >under construction. > >http://www.rmrengineering.co.uk/ > >I ended up having mine made by a local fabricator and was quite pleased >with the result. If I recall, I got the specs from Mark Pruitt's web >site. > >www.marks-tr6-garage.com > >Mike >Corvallis, OR >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Apr 21 17:11:59 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 19:11:59 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair In-Reply-To: <042120082209.6998.480D10A5000CA0F100001B5622007510909D01020108D206@comcast.net> References: <042120082209.6998.480D10A5000CA0F100001B5622007510909D01020108D206@comcast.net> Message-ID: <000301c8a405$1c60d940$210110ac@bobspc> I have heard of radiator shops that will do just what you're saying but I have no idea of cost. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: j.honor at comcast.net [mailto:j.honor at comcast.net] Sent: Monday, April 21, 2008 6:10 PM To: Bob Danielson; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair other than repalcing entire radiator with TRF aluminum ever hear of uprated core replacement with new modern design? -------------- Original message ---------------------- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> > Phil, > There's maybe a gallon in the radiator. On my previous radiator, I'd > just loosen the bottom hose and let it leak out. If you're having a > shop boil it out and repair the leak, you might want to consider > having a bung soldered in for a petcock. > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Phil Beckman > Sent: Sunday, April 20, 2008 5:22 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Radiator removal/repair > > So I took the TR6 out of storage yesterday and as I walked past the > front of the car after a short drive I heard an ominous hissing noise. > Further inspection revealed that the seam at the top of the radiator is leaking. > Guess its time to pull the radiator and send it out for repair. > There's a place nearby that supposedly does good work. > > > > I assume the best way to accomplish this is to drain the radiator into > a catch basin of some sort and then simply unbolt it. Only thing I > don't know is the capacity of the radiator. How big of a catch basin > am I going to need? > What's the best way to dispose of all the used anti-freeze? > > > > Thanks > > > > Phil > > > > '73 TR6 > > Libertyville, IL > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in > this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1387 - Release Date: > 4/19/2008 > 11:31 AM > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as j.honor at comcast.net No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.2/1388 - Release Date: 4/20/2008 3:01 PM From 75teer6 at gmail.com Mon Apr 21 18:30:49 2008 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Mon, 21 Apr 2008 18:30:49 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: <771A1C93.5A8C19B8.00159EE9@cs.com> References: <771A1C93.5A8C19B8.00159EE9@cs.com> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0804211730t238c39e9s350d0507e8a80cc1@mail.gmail.com> Has anyone fabricated brackets that mount the Miata Seats on the TR6 Seat Runners, and have measured drawings to share? Henri 1975 TR5 From ronniep at cox.net Tue Apr 22 07:49:21 2008 From: ronniep at cox.net (Ronnie P) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:49:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] A/C for TR6 Message-ID: <004601c8a47f$aae2eee0$6401a8c0@ronnie1949> Did any of you successfully add a/c to a TR6? I have viewed Roger Bolick's article on the Hill Country web site. The article deals with everything under the hood. This appears to be the easier part of the installation. I need to choose the evaporator/heater unit. This is not mentioned in Roger's article. I called Vintage Air and they suggested their Gen-II mini. (19" Wide, 7.3" Deep, 9" high) This will give me Cool air, heat and defroster functions. Don't know if it will fit. I plan to remove the existing heater/defroster. I will also remove the glove box behind the dash if necessary. Suggestions? Thanks, Ronnie Palmisano From jmerone at rocketmail.com Tue Apr 22 09:12:37 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:12:37 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Free TR6 Transmission Message-ID: <17109.87990.qm@web30908.mail.mud.yahoo.com> All: On Sunday Trevor the TR6 emerged from long his winter hibernation all rejuvenated and ready for another year of motoring. It was the perfect day for a nice 100-mile shake out cruise. It's now been 1 year and 4000 miles since I installed a HVDA 5-speed in the car. I kept the original 4-speed in the corner of the garage "just in case" anything went wrong after the conversion. Well that hasn't happened, so as promised I'm offering it up free of charge to anyone who would like it. The 4-speed has 96K original miles on it, and is in good shape. It always shifted well, the fluif was clean, leaks minimal (really) and there's no reason that this couldn't just be bolted right on to a car if needed. Important note: This transmission must be picked up within the next two weeks. After that it's off to the dump. No shipping - although I will deliver it within a 50 mile radius of my home. If you are interested, please contact me off-list. Thanks, Joe Merone CF18928 5-speed South Burlington, VT ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Tue Apr 22 09:17:48 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 11:17:48 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Message-ID: Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This all made sense, but no more. Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I just can't understand. Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Tue Apr 22 09:25:49 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 09:25:49 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Message-ID: <480F11AE@webmail.colostate.edu> Shut up and Drive it then! ;) Shawn >===== Original Message From Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> ===== >Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. >Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I >have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its >territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This >all made sense, but no more. > >Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights >that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I >just can't understand. > >Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now >able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling >noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? > > >Ashford Little >GTA Director >6-Pack Membership Secretary >'70 TR6 From triosan at gmail.com Tue Apr 22 09:45:37 2008 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:45:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8cbd782d0804220845x1d43c2dbq1268fad3ac5e4a8e@mail.gmail.com> You obviously need a new header, PI, a hotter cam, a better cooling system, more compression, close ratio gears, a new rear axle set, stronger front axels, toyota 5 speed and 4 pot front rotors, roller rockers -- all the things we need to keep the cars off the road and in repair forever! Enjoy it while you got it. On Tue, Apr 22, 2008 at 8:17 AM, Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> wrote: > Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. > Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I > have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its > territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This > all made sense, but no more. > > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. > > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? > > > Ashford Little > GTA Director > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > '70 TR6 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Tue Apr 22 09:53:50 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 11:53:50 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 References: Message-ID: <02ad01c8a491$0f1840c0$c7fba8c0@hp> Quick sell it before it breaks.... ----- Original Message ----- From: Ashford Little To: 6pack Email List ; Triumph Email List Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 11:17 AM Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This all made sense, but no more. Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I just can't understand. Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Apr 22 10:02:45 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:02:45 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814904@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Check the engine, if it only has 4 cylinders someone has swapped it for a Honda or Toyota motor. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Ashford Little Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 11:18 AM To: 6pack Email List; Triumph Email List Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This all made sense, but no more. Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I just can't understand. Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 From jimmble at roadrunner.com Tue Apr 22 10:02:56 2008 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 12:02:56 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0804220845x1d43c2dbq1268fad3ac5e4a8e@mail.gmail.com> References: <8cbd782d0804220845x1d43c2dbq1268fad3ac5e4a8e@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <480E0C30.2020201@roadrunner.com> LOL Well said Chuck! Jim Franks Chuck Arnold wrote: > You obviously need a new header, PI, a hotter cam, a better cooling system, > more compression, close ratio gears, a new rear axle set, stronger front > axels, toyota 5 speed and 4 pot front rotors, roller rockers -- all the > things we need to keep the cars off the road and in repair forever! > > Enjoy it while you got it. > > On Tue, Apr 22, 2008 at 8:17 AM, Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> > wrote: > > >> Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. >> Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I >> have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its >> territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This >> all made sense, but no more. >> >> Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights >> that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I >> just can't understand. >> >> Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now >> able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling >> noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? >> >> >> Ashford Little >> GTA Director >> 6-Pack Membership Secretary >> '70 TR6 >> _______________________________________________ >> >> Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >> 6pack at autox.team.net >> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >> http://www.team.net/archive >> >> You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com From fishplate at charter.net Tue Apr 22 11:39:53 2008 From: fishplate at charter.net (fishplate at charter.net) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 13:39:53 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080422133953.G16PG.40148.root@fepweb06> ---- Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> wrote: > > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. > > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Fortunately, I have a couple of cars that you can trade for...all of them exhibit the characteristics you seek, and will be perfect for your needs. Plus, You won't spend much money on gasoline, since you won't be going very far... Jeff Scarbrough Athens, Ga. http://fishplate.org/vehicles/ From tr6parts at charter.net Tue Apr 22 12:15:34 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (tr6parts at charter.net) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 11:15:34 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20080422141534.MDHTZ.478893.root@fepweb16> Its probably brown and your in the wrong car. ---- Ashford Little <70tr6 at mindspring.com> wrote: > Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. > Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I > have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its > territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This > all made sense, but no more. > > Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights > that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I > just can't understand. > > Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now > able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling > noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? > > > Ashford Little > GTA Director > 6-Pack Membership Secretary > '70 TR6 > _______________________________________________ From mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com Tue Apr 22 13:58:21 2008 From: mblunsfordsr at yahoo.com (michael lunsford) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 12:58:21 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Odd Issue Message-ID: <594915.2499.qm@web51402.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Ashford. So, what did you do to reach this level of nirvana? I'm with those who suggested "quick, sell it" as this can't possibly last and if it did, how would you get your daily dose of LBC masochism. Mike Lunsford _________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From tr6greg at fuse.net Tue Apr 22 16:25:24 2008 From: tr6greg at fuse.net (Greg Donegan) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 18:25:24 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: Message-ID: It's probably gettin' back at you for calling your Porsche a Triumph last year at the Mitty... Greg Donegan 6-Pack Chairman Hebron, KY '72 TR6 CC82492UO -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+tr6greg=fuse.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+tr6greg=fuse.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf Of Ashford Little Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 11:18 AM To: 6pack Email List; Triumph Email List Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This all made sense, but no more. Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I just can't understand. Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary '70 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tr6greg at fuse.net -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.3/1391 - Release Date: 4/22/2008 8:15 AM From jrhauser at sea-dog.net Tue Apr 22 17:02:42 2008 From: jrhauser at sea-dog.net (jrhauser at sea-dog.net) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 19:02:42 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Oil leak around blanking plate Message-ID: <200804222302.m3MN2gYC010986@mail27.atl.registeredsite.com> Anyone have some good ideas on how I can make a good seal around the blanking plate that was installed where my former mechanical fuel pump was? I've got about 1500 miles on newly restored, tight engine and have sprung a leak. I've located someone who has better quality/thicker blanking plates, but is out of stock. Thoughts on a good seal until I can get a thicker plate? Thanks in advance! John From stan.foster at hp.com Tue Apr 22 17:16:27 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 23:16:27 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Oil leak around blanking plate In-Reply-To: <200804222302.m3MN2gYC010986@mail27.atl.registeredsite.com> References: <200804222302.m3MN2gYC010986@mail27.atl.registeredsite.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA81490F@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Hi John, does the standard fuel pump gasket not work well with these plates ?. I ask as I am about to fit one myself. I just ordered it from Richard at Goodparts http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=351 http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=352 I was hoping a normal gasket with some hylomar would take care of it.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jrhauser at sea-dog.net Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 7:03 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Oil leak around blanking plate Anyone have some good ideas on how I can make a good seal around the blanking plate that was installed where my former mechanical fuel pump was? I've got about 1500 miles on newly restored, tight engine and have sprung a leak. I've located someone who has better quality/thicker blanking plates, but is out of stock. Thoughts on a good seal until I can get a thicker plate? Thanks in advance! John 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Apr 22 17:27:21 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:27:21 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Oil leak around blanking plate In-Reply-To: "Foster, Stan" 's message of Tue, 22 Apr 2008 23:16:27 +0000 Message-ID: <21367-480E7459-4004@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> John and Stan---I used the standard paper gasket to make a template from a piece of 1/8 inch steel plate. Using the paper gasket allowed some oil seepage, so I then made one from cork, added some WellSeal, and t's been leak-free since. Note that if you take out the two studs, that the end with the short threads goes into the block. You may also need to cut more threads, or add washers to keep from bottoming out the nuts on the stud shanks. Dick E-mail message Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: stan.foster at hp.com(Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, Apr 22, 2008, 11:16pm (PDT+7) To: jrhauser at sea-dog.net, 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil leak around blanking plate Hi John, does the standard fuel pump gasket not work well with these plates ?. I ask as I am about to fit one myself. I just ordered it from Richard at Goodparts http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=351 http://www.goodparts.com/shop/index.php?productID=352 I was hoping a normal gasket with some hylomar would take care of it.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jrhauser at sea-dog.net Sent: Tuesday, April 22, 2008 7:03 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Oil leak around blanking plate Anyone have some good ideas on how I can make a good seal around the blanking plate that was installed where my former mechanical fuel pump was? I've got about 1500 miles on newly restored, tight engine and have sprung a leak. I've located someone who has better quality/thicker blanking plates, but is out of stock. Thoughts on a good seal until I can get a thicker plate? Thanks in advance! John ______________________________________________ To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Oil leak around blanking plate Anyone have some good ideas on how I can make a good seal around the blanking plate that was installed where my former mechanical fuel pump was? I've got about 1500 miles on newly restored, tight engine and have sprung a leak. I've located someone who has better quality/thicker blanking plates, but is out of stock. Thoughts on a good seal until I can get a thicker plate? Thanks in advance! John 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com ______________________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Apr 22 17:38:59 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 16:38:59 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Help with odd issue on my TR6 In-Reply-To: Ashford Little <70tr6@mindspring.com>'s message of Tue, 22 Apr 2008 11:17:48 -0400 Message-ID: <21367-480E7713-4012@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Ashford---It's a "Little" late for April Fool! ? If the soot, smoke and consumption was from an oil leak, that could account for the coloring around the Kamm back. (Smoke from oil deposits on the exhaust system) Such a leak rarely fixes itself, unless you run the oil level down really low. If the engine was actually burning the oil and sending it out the tailpipe, it rarely fixes itself either. It's too much to think that some oil riings suddenly unstuck..Or that worn valve guides closed up. Neither accounts for the new-found rev range, unless your air/fuel mix was badly diluted with oil. Dick From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com(Ashford Little) Something is wrong with my car and I can't seem to diagnose it. Traditionally after driving my car for even short periods of time I have black soot all over the back of my car. The engine marks its territory and consumes oil like some members consume Newcastle. This all made sense, but no more. Now, when I drive my car there is no plume of smoke, no tail lights that are stained black, and the engine oil level remains constant. I just can't understand. Oh, and then there's the performance issue; for some reason I'm now able to rev over 4k. The car revs and revs and makes a nice howling noise when in the upper rpm range. What am I to do? Ashford Little GTA Director 6-Pack Membership Secretary From jmerone at rocketmail.com Wed Apr 23 07:19:25 2008 From: jmerone at rocketmail.com (Joe Merone) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 06:19:25 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] TR6 tranny finds good home Message-ID: <304199.24074.qm@web30906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Just a quick message to let you know that I found my old transmission a good home yesterday and spared myself the eternal guilt of having to take it to some cold and lonely dump - where it would turn the drive gears of a TR6 no more. And here's the best part: Even with the global reach of this thing called the internet, David Johnson - my new fellow Triumph enthusiast - lives only 20 miles from my house and came by and picked it up by 5:30 p.m. yesterday. Keepin' it local, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 23 08:31:24 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 09:31:24 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Help with odd issue on my TR6 References: <20080422133953.G16PG.40148.root@fepweb06> Message-ID: <003301c8a54f$74b97610$24a7a8c0@garage.local> "quite before the storm" kind of like fluif, eh? > > Drive the hell out of it. This is the quite before the storm. > > > Best regards, > Tom From dbjohnso at us.ibm.com Wed Apr 23 08:46:27 2008 From: dbjohnso at us.ibm.com (David B Johnson) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 10:46:27 -0400 Subject: [6pack] TR6 tranny finds good home In-Reply-To: <304199.24074.qm@web30906.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Joe, thanks again for the tranny! I too would have hated to see it relegated to the dump like so much rubbish. I've given it a place of honor next to my rebuilt OD transmission (waiting to be reinstalled) where I plan to clean it up, give it a nice shiny coat of aluminum paint, tinker with it and try my skills at rebuilding it as a spare. Don't forget my offer.....if you ever have a change of heart and want or need to reclaim it, you know where to find me. I'm sure we'll be in touch more often now. BTW, Kai is delivering my engine this weekend. Yippee! Dave Joe Merone To Sent by: 6 Pack list <6pack at autox.team.net>, 6pack-bounces+dbj Triumph List ohnso=us.ibm.com@ autox.team.net cc Subject 04/23/2008 09:19 [6pack] TR6 tranny finds good home AM Please respond to jmerone at rocketmai l.com Just a quick message to let you know that I found my old transmission a good home yesterday and spared myself the eternal guilt of having to take it to some cold and lonely dump - where it would turn the drive gears of a TR6 no more. And here's the best part: Even with the global reach of this thing called the internet, David Johnson - my new fellow Triumph enthusiast - lives only 20 miles from my house and came by and picked it up by 5:30 p.m. yesterday. Keepin' it local, Joe Merone South Burlington, VT CF18928 5-speed _____________________________________________________________________________ _______ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as dbjohnso at us.ibm.com [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of graycol.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of pic15725.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of ecblank.gif] From 75teer6 at gmail.com Wed Apr 23 08:58:27 2008 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 08:58:27 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: <042320081304.25465.480F33C300019E61000063792200734364970A9D010507@comcast.net> References: <042320081304.25465.480F33C300019E61000063792200734364970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <83dfea6b0804230758g2258e26fxe4f5978e9939d077@mail.gmail.com> Thank you Irv, these instructions will do the trick. Henri On Wed, Apr 23, 2008 at 7:04 AM, wrote: > > > > > > -------------- Original message -------------- > From: "Henri Lefebvre" <75teer6 at gmail.com> > > > Has anyone fabricated brackets that mount the Miata Seats on the TR6 > > Seat Runners, and have measured drawings to share? > > > > These were done by a friend of mine. You sit a little higher than in the TR > seats, but that may also be due to the full amount of foam in the new seats > vs the old ones. These are scans of pencil drawings so they aren't the best > quality, but they should help some. > > > > Irv Korey > > 74 TR6 CF22767U > > Highland Park, IL From Lizirbydavis at cs.com Wed Apr 23 18:57:47 2008 From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com (Lizirbydavis at cs.com) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 20:57:47 EDT Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Message-ID: Has anyone figured out how to mount the Miata seats so that they are the same height as the TR seats? I've got a pair, but haven't installed because initial fitting showed that I would be looikng at the windshield header instead of through the windshield. I'm 6'2" and need all the head room I can get! Joe From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Wed Apr 23 21:55:40 2008 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Wed, 23 Apr 2008 21:55:40 -0600 Subject: [6pack] [Wedge] Re: [Spits] UK Government not planning to ban old cars In-Reply-To: References: <9f2527520804230801i711fd405l7b519dc4192d251d@mail.gmail.com> <480F766F.3010108@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <481004BC.4040808@tscusa.org> Charles, Maybe it will be better the second time around? Have a go at it. We had a discussion about this at one joint LBC club meeting last November. A comment was made that that meeting that the regional SEMA group did nothing to prevent this in 2007 although they were aware of the changes. Glenn charles frink wrote: > Glenn > > I had just finished a long reply to your email and hit the wrong > button. It is now ???? in cyber space. > > The long and short of it was if we dont do something to stop this > lunacy we will be driving uninspiring iron which have no SOUL. There > must be people of some importance who, if willing to step up, could > stop this political pandering. > > I drive my non stock TR8 somewhere around 3000 miles per year. Most > of us who are auto hobbiest's do much the same thing. > > Before I say something which is certain to offend some folks I will > get off my soapbox but will close with a plea for help from ????. How > does one "LOVE" an Impala as one "LOVES" their > TR8--TR6--TR4--Spit--Healey--MGA--MGB--Alpine--and all those > "Loveable" cars of yesterday from all over the world. > > Perhaps I should install an electric traction motor in the 8. That > might keep the tree huggers quiet for a while (NAH on both counts). > > Charles > > -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Apr 24 05:59:23 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 11:59:23 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: There was a guy at this past weekend's "The Gathering" in NC with Miata seats with the Mazda rails just bolted to the floor. It sat great and I saw no problem with a few new holes in the floorpans. If we can find some good seats, I think that's what we're gonna do. Sloane :) 69-Six> Has anyone figured out how to mount the Miata seats so that they are the same > height as the TR seats? I've got a pair, but haven't installed because > initial fitting showed that I would be looikng at the windshield header instead of > through the windshield. I'm 6'2" and need all the head room I can get! > Joe > _______________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ Spell a grand slam in this game where word skill meets World Series. Get in the game. http://club.live.com/word_slugger.aspx?icid=word_slugger_wlhm_admod_april08 From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Apr 24 06:49:51 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 12:49:51 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814945@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I don't believe that will work without something to move the outer rail mounting holes inboard otherwise you are above the frame and there is no clear path for a bolt. My experience was that adding an adapter plate to achieve that added pretty much the same bulk as my end state brackets that use the original seat holes. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im sloane Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:59 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata seat bracket There was a guy at this past weekend's "The Gathering" in NC with Miata seats with the Mazda rails just bolted to the floor. It sat great and I saw no problem with a few new holes in the floorpans. If we can find some good seats, I think that's what we're gonna do. Sloane :) 69-Six> Has anyone figured out how to mount the Miata seats so that they are the same > height as the TR seats? I've got a pair, but haven't installed because > initial fitting showed that I would be looikng at the windshield header instead of > through the windshield. I'm 6'2" and need all the head room I can get! > Joe From 75teer6 at gmail.com Thu Apr 24 08:43:45 2008 From: 75teer6 at gmail.com (Henri Lefebvre) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 08:43:45 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <83dfea6b0804240743p79ff0c1fp3bb91d02c451b573@mail.gmail.com> Joe, One of the limiting factor to minimum seat height is the low bulge in the seat pan. I was looking at the seat bottom last night and measuring with the TR6 track. My initial plan is to see if I can mount a flat bracket to the Miata pan, front to back, on either side, using the mounting holes in the pan. The bracket would have a 'tab' bent at 90 degrees to bolt to the TR6 tracks, at the same place as the TR6 seats. It seems that this approach would be the lowest possible seat placement. More measuring and tinkering to come. Henri On Wed, Apr 23, 2008 at 6:57 PM, wrote: > Has anyone figured out how to mount the Miata seats so that they are the > same height as the TR seats? I've got a pair, but haven't installed because > initial fitting showed that I would be looikng at the windshield header > instead of through the windshield. I'm 6'2" and need all the head room I > can get! > Joe From Lizirbydavis at cs.com Thu Apr 24 15:14:31 2008 From: Lizirbydavis at cs.com (Lizirbydavis at cs.com) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 17:14:31 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Message-ID: <4F553E23.5CA0C408.2B9A9738@cs.com> I'm very tempted to cut about 2" off the bottom of the seat pan and welding in a new bottom. It seems to me that this might be a good solution if I can keep from compromising the integrity of the seat by damaging the foam Joe Henri Lefebvre" <75teer6 at gmail.com> wrote: >Joe, > >One of the limiting factor to minimum seat height is the low bulge in >the seat pan. >I was looking at the seat bottom last night and measuring with the TR6 >track. My initial plan is to see if I can mount a flat bracket to the >Miata pan, front to back, on either side, using the mounting holes in >the pan. The bracket would have a 'tab' bent at 90 degrees to bolt to >the TR6 tracks, at the same place as the TR6 seats. >It seems that this approach would be the lowest possible seat placement. > >More measuring and tinkering to come. > >Henri > > > >On Wed, Apr 23, 2008 at 6:57 PM, wrote: >> Has anyone figured out how to mount the Miata seats so that they are the >> same height as the TR seats? I've got a pair, but haven't installed because >> initial fitting showed that I would be looikng at the windshield header >> instead of through the windshield. I'm 6'2" and need all the head room I >> can get! >> Joe >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as lizirbydavis at cs.com From PeterSchop at aol.com Thu Apr 24 17:44:17 2008 From: PeterSchop at aol.com (PeterSchop at aol.com) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 19:44:17 EDT Subject: [6pack] Armstrong shock oil - follow up Message-ID: In an earlier post looking for oil for the lever shocks, some of the suggestions were to use 20W hydraulic oil, motorcycle racing shock oil and Harley Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." What I ended up using was Screamin' Eagle Performance Heavy Oil from my local Harley dealer for $4. After doing a little research, I found that the Harley type "B" is 10 wt, Screamin' Eagle Performance Fork Oil is 15wt, Screamin' Eagle Racing Fork Oil is 20wt. I also found Bel-Ray has fork oil available in 5wt, 7wt, 10wt, 15wt, 20wt and 30wt. When I drained the oil in the Armstrong shock, I had to use a 13mm wrench to remove the plug on the top of the shock. After I poured the old oil out, I used a turkey baster as a funnel to refill. Slow job as the oil has to pass thru the valve in the shock displacing the air inside. I used less than half of the pint bottle. Peter Schoppelry **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From trsix74 at comcast.net Thu Apr 24 18:44:53 2008 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 20:44:53 -0400 Subject: [6pack] A Type OD Oil Message-ID: <000001c8a66d$95a2ce20$6601a8c0@Robert> May I ask all of you that have an A Type Overdrive which Oil you use? The Service Instruction Manual for Standard Motor Company states summer use of Mineral 30 W. Is that good for our hot summers over here in the US? The UK is obviously a little cooler. Any information is appreciated. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From lfm614 at aol.com Thu Apr 24 18:47:57 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 00:47:57 +0000 Subject: [6pack] A Type OD Oil In-Reply-To: <000001c8a66d$95a2ce20$6601a8c0@Robert> References: <000001c8a66d$95a2ce20$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <1945270969-1209084478-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1389937571-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I read the results of a test that quantumechanics (.com) did, they recomended 30 wt non-detergent. That's what I run. Go to the site and read the test results. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Robert Liam Gannon" Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 20:44:53 To:<6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: [6pack] A Type OD Oil May I ask all of you that have an A Type Overdrive which Oil you use? The Service Instruction Manual for Standard Motor Company states summer use of Mineral 30 W. Is that good for our hot summers over here in the US? The UK is obviously a little cooler. Any information is appreciated. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From tr6driver at earthlink.net Thu Apr 24 18:48:20 2008 From: tr6driver at earthlink.net (Jamie Palmer) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 20:48:20 -0400 (GMT-04:00) Subject: [6pack] A/C for TR6 Message-ID: <3818872.1209084500310.JavaMail.root@elwamui-huard.atl.sa.earthlink.net> Ronnie, please keep us informed as you pursue the A/C...thanks! >Message: 2 >Date: Tue, 22 Apr 2008 08:49:21 -0500 >From: "Ronnie P" >Subject: [6pack] A/C for TR6 >To: <6pack at autox.team.net> >Message-ID: <004601c8a47f$aae2eee0$6401a8c0 at ronnie1949> >Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" > >Did any of you successfully add a/c to a TR6? > >I have viewed Roger Bolick's article on the Hill Country web site. > >The article deals with everything under the hood. This appears to be the >easier part of the installation. > >I need to choose the evaporator/heater unit. This is not mentioned in >Roger's article. > >I called Vintage Air and they suggested their Gen-II mini. (19" Wide, 7.3" >Deep, 9" high) This will give me Cool air, heat and defroster functions. >Don't know if it will fit. > >I plan to remove the existing heater/defroster. I will also remove the >glove box behind the dash if necessary. > >Suggestions? > >Thanks, > >Ronnie Palmisano From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Apr 24 18:47:01 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 19:47:01 -0500 Subject: [6pack] A Type OD Oil References: <000001c8a66d$95a2ce20$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <000d01c8a66d$ef018740$32010a0a@garage.local> we use redline 90 wt. its pure synthetic, and made a huge difference in a tranny with "rough" synchros on 1 and 2 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Liam Gannon" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 7:44 PM Subject: [6pack] A Type OD Oil > May I ask all of you that have an A Type Overdrive which Oil you use? The > Service Instruction Manual for Standard Motor Company states summer use of > Mineral 30 W. Is that good for our hot summers over here in the US? The UK > is obviously a little cooler. Any information is appreciated. From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Apr 24 18:56:30 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 20:56:30 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Armstrong shock oil - follow up Message-ID: <6AF976A1.14FF9277.00159EE9@cs.com> Thanks for the diligent research! I am about to go shopping for two TRs. I think I will use your choice of the 15wt for my TR3A (street) and the 20wt for my Ambro-TR project. I suppose you know that you can play with the valving in these shocks, too? On my TR4 #197, I used MGB valves from the MG front shocks in the TR4 rears. This was a long time ago, so the details are lost to me. Very stiff, but that's what I needed. Joe A >In an earlier post looking for oil for the lever shocks, some of the >suggestions were to use 20W hydraulic oil, motorcycle racing shock oil and Harley >Hydraulic Fork Oil Type "B." What I ended up using was Screamin' Eagle >Performance Heavy Oil from my local Harley dealer for $4. > >After doing a little research, I found that the Harley type "B" is 10 wt, >Screamin' Eagle Performance Fork Oil is 15wt, Screamin' Eagle Racing Fork Oil is > 20wt. I also found Bel-Ray has fork oil available in 5wt, 7wt, 10wt, 15wt, >20wt and 30wt. > >When I drained the oil in the Armstrong shock, I had to use a 13mm wrench to >remove the plug on the top of the shock. After I poured the old oil out, I >used a turkey baster as a funnel to refill. Slow job as the oil has to pass >thru the valve in the shock displacing the air inside. I used less than half of >the pint bottle. > >Peter Schoppelry > > > >**************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car >listings at AOL Autos. >(http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From levilevi at comcast.net Thu Apr 24 23:16:44 2008 From: levilevi at comcast.net (levilevi) Date: Thu, 24 Apr 2008 23:16:44 -0600 Subject: [6pack] A Type OD Oil References: <000001c8a66d$95a2ce20$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <003001c8a693$8fcd2a10$54f30818@rolofson> Valvoline VR1 50w racing motor oil....with API Service SL for those keeping score at home. Temperatures hit 104 on three of my summer VTR trips from Denver and back and no problems and the OD was on about 75% of the miles. Bud 71TR6 CC57365 (Good 6) 66TR4A CTC57806 (The Wreck-Almost Parts) 66TR4A CTC57529 (The Project) 71F-250 Camper Special (Triumph Support Vehicle) Z-50A Hardly Davidson 1977 Honda Mini-Trail Bike (Triumph Pit Bike) ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert Liam Gannon To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 6:44 PM Subject: [6pack] A Type OD Oil May I ask all of you that have an A Type Overdrive which Oil you use? The Service Instruction Manual for Standard Motor Company states summer use of Mineral 30 W. Is that good for our hot summers over here in the US? The UK is obviously a little cooler. Any information is appreciated. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as levilevi at comcast.net From forzion at maine.rr.com Fri Apr 25 06:32:52 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (forzion at maine.rr.com) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 8:32:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Mix Message-ID: <23775644.24201209126772634.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web17-z02> I run synthetic Mobil 1 10W-30 in my car. When on a trip recently, I noted that the crankcase was a quart low. As it was late, all I had access to, on the road, was a high-quality but "non-synthetic" [real] oil. Rather than running a quart low, I added it to the crankcase to complete the ride home. Now, I've got second thoughts: Does mixing a quart of 'real' oil with synthetic withsynthetic pose a problem? Should I go through a whole new oil/filter change? Dave Friedlander Maine From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Apr 25 13:23:07 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 12:23:07 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Mix In-Reply-To: 's message of Fri, 25 Apr 2008 8:32:52 -0400 Message-ID: <28136-48122F9B-1484@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Dave---Autoparts stores sell oil that's a blend of petroleum and synthetic base. I see no problem in you doing what the refineires do! Dick From: forzion at maine.rr.com( I run synthetic Mobil 1 10W-30 in my car. When on a trip recently, I noted that the crankcase was a quart low. As it was late, all I had access to, on the road, was a high-quality but "non-synthetic" [real] oil. Rather than running a quart low, I added it to the crankcase to complete the ride home. Now, I've got second thoughts: Does mixing a quart of 'real' oil with synthetic withsynthetic pose a problem? Should I go through a whole new oil/filter change? Dave Friedlander Maine ______________________________________________ From rpeglow at optonline.net Fri Apr 25 17:47:30 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 16:47:30 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Mix References: <23775644.24201209126772634.JavaMail.root@hrndva-web17-z02> Message-ID: <000c01c8a72e$b9d61b50$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Hi Dave, If you "Google" mixing oils you will find most opinions do not recommend it. Different oils have different additives and they may not play well together. http://news.theolympian.com/specialsections/Auto/20020413/5578.shtml Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, April 25, 2008 5:32 AM Subject: [6pack] Synthetic Oil Mix > I run synthetic Mobil 1 10W-30 in my car. When on a trip recently, I noted that the crankcase was a quart low. As it was late, all I had access to, on the road, was a high-quality but "non-synthetic" [real] oil. Rather than running a quart low, I added it to the crankcase to complete the ride home. Now, I've got second thoughts: Does mixing a quart of 'real' oil with synthetic withsynthetic pose a problem? Should I go through a whole new oil/filter change? > > Dave Friedlander > Maine > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From tpdwinch at yahoo.com Fri Apr 25 16:28:55 2008 From: tpdwinch at yahoo.com (Dale) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 15:28:55 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Message-ID: <125454.53667.qm@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Joe When I was installing my Miata seats I was at the same place as you. My solution was to take a 1/4" x 2" flat bar weld a 5/8" or 3/4" nut to the bar and that add a washer to the top and bottom of the stock Miata bracket which was bent according to Nelson's instrucrtions. After all the measurements were taken the bars were bolted to the stock holes and the seats to nuts. This gave just enough clearance for the seats to slide with out any modification to them. Sorry I don't have pictures. I am 6' 1"and have no problem seeing and have a Roll Bar that limits about 1.5" of further back travel. Dale ----- Original Message ---- From: "Lizirbydavis at cs.com" To: Henri Lefebvre <75teer6 at gmail.com>; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Thursday, April 24, 2008 5:14:31 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata seat bracket I'm very tempted to cut about 2" off the bottom of the seat pan and welding in a new bottom. It seems to me that this might be a good solution if I can keep from compromising the integrity of the seat by damaging the foam Joe Henri Lefebvre" <75teer6 at gmail.com> wrote: >Joe, > >One of the limiting factor to minimum seat height is the low bulge in >the seat pan. >I was looking at the seat bottom last night and measuring with the TR6 >track. My initial plan is to see if I can mount a flat bracket to the >Miata pan, front to back, on either side, using the mounting holes in >the pan. The bracket would have a 'tab' bent at 90 degrees to bolt to >the TR6 tracks, at the same place as the TR6 seats. >It seems that this approach would be the lowest possible seat placement. > >More measuring and tinkering to come. > >Henri > > > >On Wed, Apr 23, 2008 at 6:57 PM, wrote: >> Has anyone figured out how to mount the Miata seats so that they are the >> same height as the TR seats? I've got a pair, but haven't installed because >> initial fitting showed that I would be looikng at the windshield header >> instead of through the windshield. I'm 6'2" and need all the head room I >> can get! >> Joe >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as lizirbydavis at cs.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as tpdwinch at yahoo.com _____________________________________________________________________________ _______ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From N197TR4 at cs.com Fri Apr 25 19:51:09 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 21:51:09 EDT Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal Message-ID: Six Pack, The recent activity on this subject seems to beg for a bracket design, so more Miata seats can be adapted to the TR6s...and I presume TR4s, too. There's a couple of retired John Deere manufacturing guys who do this kind of thing. One is 'Uncle Jack'. He has a very nice TR6 with Miata Seats. I talked to him today and asked him if he would be interested in this as a project. It seems very worthwhile for the Triumph Community. He was enthusiastic about the idea Jack can design it based on what he has now and improve further on it. My son can finalize the drawings for best manufacturability, then schedule for production on CNC equipment. They likely could produce 25-50 sets very economically....if there is enough advance interest. Jack is off to New York for a wedding, but will return shortly. NFI on my part. I just think it is a good idea. Who's interested? I'll copy Jack here, so include a reply to Jack. Joe A From apackard68 at comcast.net Fri Apr 25 23:46:51 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net) Date: Fri, 25 Apr 2008 22:46:51 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Hood reinforcement and rear fender repair Message-ID: <200804260546.m3Q5kpHN019708@upsa-web121.ofoto.com> I made my weekly trip to the body shop today to check the progress on the rear inner fender repairs and bonnet reinforement. They made good progress getting the welds ground down and feathering the repairs onto the other sheet metal. I added a few photos to the lot I shared earlier so progress can be seen. Take a look at the last two pics. I had them use narrow angle iron along the lip of the bonnet to reinforce the weak spot where the rear reinforcing bracket ends. How many time has someone come up to your TR250 and said "Hey, uh, you got a little crack in your hood right here." I'd like to hear some opinions on our repair approach. I'm moving forward with body repairs and getting closer to paint! Andy CD6746L HVDA You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.4rwsp57z&x=0&y=r8ktph&localeid=en_US If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.4rwsp57z&x=0&y=r8ktph&localeid=en_US From sumton at sbcglobal.net Sat Apr 26 08:13:33 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 09:13:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] possilbe gt6 in junkyard in Texas References: <008201c872be$b05592d0$dbd70c47@alan> <003201c872c2$72a1d710$54f30818@rolofson> Message-ID: <000e01c8a7a7$b7c90240$8115a8c0@garage.local> for those of you who might be interested and also in north/central texas (which yes, i know, eliminates 98% of you, so i apologize) my son is driving to austin this morning. he just reported what he thought was a rusty gt6 in a junkyard on 35S around exit 343 unconfirmed . . . From forzion at maine.rr.com Sat Apr 26 10:23:36 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 12:23:36 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts Message-ID: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> Hey List ! I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off this morning. Now that I am ready to replace the pan, using a new gasket, I realize that six of the 23 sump bolts are maybe a 1/4" longer that the others. Is this simply the work of the DPO or are these longer bolts the way it came from the factory ? Id these are stock, I'd be curious to know if their location on the sump matters.... Thanks for any insights... Cheers, Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 26 13:55:13 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 12:55:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts, pan? References: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <004401c8a7d7$710b1ca0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> We are all curious.......... What kind of oil have you been using and how clean was the pan? Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Friedlander" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 9:23 AM Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts > Hey List ! > > I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off > this morning. > Now that I am ready to replace the pan, using a new gasket, I realize > that six of the > 23 sump bolts are maybe a 1/4" longer that the others. Is this simply > the work of the > DPO or are these longer bolts the way it came from the factory ? Id > these are stock, > I'd be curious to know if their location on the sump matters.... > > Thanks for any insights... > > Cheers, > > Dave Friedlander > CF25194U+O+TBI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Apr 26 11:15:58 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 10:15:58 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: David Friedlander 's message of Sat, 26 Apr 2008 12:23:36 -0400 Message-ID: <24098-4813634E-546@storefull-3138.bay.webtv.net> Dave---The pan is reinforced in places and is thicker here, thus requiring the extra bolt length. I don't remember that there's "six" such places, but you should see the difference when looking at the pan configuration. (Most of these are at the rear of the pan) Dick From: forzion at maine.rr.com(David Friedlander) Hey List ! I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off this morning. Now that I am ready to replace the pan, using a new gasket, I realize that six of the 23 sump bolts are maybe a 1/4" longer that the others. Is this simply the work of the DPO or are these longer bolts the way it came from the factory ? Id these are stock, I'd be curious to know if their location on the sump matters.... Thanks for any insights... Cheers, Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI ______________________________________ From patton at suscom-maine.net Sat Apr 26 11:25:20 2008 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 13:25:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: Hello neighbor, Dave it's pretty common for oil pans to be warped around the bolt holes from over tightening. Before you put it back in place lay a straight edge across the bolt hole and see if it is flat. It it's raised up around the hole the gasket will be tight there but loose between holes. A couple of taps from a small ball peen hammer is all that's needed to correct it. The very best thing to seal oil pans with is "The Right Stuff" from Permatex. It's expensive and comes in a cheese whiz type can. Wipe the surfaces with brake cleaner or something like that as nothing will seal well against an oil film. The Right Stuff is so good you can even leave out the gasket if you wish. I'm not sure about the bolt length. I'm guessing but suspect that the ones that go into the soft front block may be short. Go real easy on those as the bock strips very easily. There are also a couple of bolts into the front of that block that tend to strip and leak too. On the road again, Rick 75 TR6sci http://pattonmachine.com/ > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf > Of David Friedlander > Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 12:24 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts > > > Hey List ! > > I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off > this morning. Snip > Thanks for any insights... > > Cheers, > > Dave Friedlander > CF25194U+O+TBI From forzion at maine.rr.com Sat Apr 26 12:47:20 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:47:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts, pan? In-Reply-To: <004401c8a7d7$710b1ca0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> <004401c8a7d7$710b1ca0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <481378B8.9070003@maine.rr.com> Bob; "We are 'all' curious?" Got a crowd there with you, Bob? :-) I've been using Valvoline Synthetic [I believe it's 10W-30]. Along with that I use a bottle of Valvoline SynPower Oil Treatment which is high in ZDDP -- though I believe it is no longer made -- I bought a half dozen bottles of it on eBay last year. I have searched the local shops here and cannot find the 4-oz. bottles of ZDDPlus, so I'll have to buy them online, for future oil changes. The sump pan was fairly clean with just a bit of what some might call 'sludge' at the bottom, but not much. Dave Bob wrote: >We are all curious.......... >What kind of oil have you been using and how clean was the pan? >Regards, >Bob >----- Original Message ----- >From: "David Friedlander" >To: <6pack at autox.team.net> >Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 9:23 AM >Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts > > > > >>Hey List ! >> >>I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off >>this morning. >>Now that I am ready to replace the pan, using a new gasket, I realize >>that six of the >>23 sump bolts are maybe a 1/4" longer that the others. Is this simply >>the work of the >>DPO or are these longer bolts the way it came from the factory ? Id >>these are stock, >>I'd be curious to know if their location on the sump matters.... >> >>Thanks for any insights... >> >>Cheers, >> >>Dave Friedlander >>CF25194U+O+TBI >>_______________________________________________ >> >>Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html >> >>6pack at autox.team.net >>http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack >> >>http://www.team.net/archive >> >>You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From forzion at maine.rr.com Sat Apr 26 12:59:57 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:59:57 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <48137BAD.5040006@maine.rr.com> Rick/Dick; I believe you wrote me about this last month, when I queried you about this, as I knew this was a task I needed to get to. I have followed those directions and find that a number of the the pan bolt holes halfway down the sides were raised a bit. I did my best to level them I note that the pan itself seems to also have a slight 'arc' to it, front to back. Perhaps the bolts themselves take care of that when tightened up. I am looking at the Bentley's page 52. Am I correct in reading the torque table there, that the sump bolt torque is listed under "Sump Attachment, and should be 15-20 ft/lbs? I have now spread some Right Stuff on the side between the sump pan and gasket and it is ready to go. The package of Right Stuff I bought comes in a 5-oz. caulking tube with a small caulking gun. Since it sets-up pretty quickly, I wasn't going to apply any more sealant to the sump side of the gasket until I was ready to install it. So, I've been awaiting the answer on the longer bolts before proceeding. Seems like there is some opinion of placing the longer bolts in the reinforced sections of the pan. Getting to that now! Thanks for your help.... Cheers! Dave Rick wrote: >Hello neighbor, > >Dave it's pretty common for oil pans to be warped around the bolt holes from >over tightening. Before you put it back in place lay a straight edge across >the bolt hole and see if it is flat. It it's raised up around the hole the >gasket will be tight there but loose between holes. A couple of taps from a >small ball peen hammer is all that's needed to correct it. The very best >thing to seal oil pans with is "The Right Stuff" from Permatex. It's >expensive and comes in a cheese whiz type can. Wipe the surfaces with brake >cleaner or something like that as nothing will seal well against an oil >film. The Right Stuff is so good you can even leave out the gasket if you >wish. > >I'm not sure about the bolt length. I'm guessing but suspect that the ones >that go into the soft front block may be short. Go real easy on those as the >bock strips very easily. There are also a couple of bolts into the front of >that block that tend to strip and leak too. > >On the road again, > >Rick >75 TR6sci >http://pattonmachine.com/ > > > >>-----Original Message----- >>From: 6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net >>[mailto:6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf >>Of David Friedlander >>Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 12:24 PM >>To: 6pack at autox.team.net >>Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts >> >> >>Hey List ! >> >>I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off >>this morning. >> >> >Snip > > > >>Thanks for any insights... >> >>Cheers, >> >>Dave Friedlander >>CF25194U+O+TBI From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Apr 26 14:31:16 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 16:31:16 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts, pan? In-Reply-To: <004401c8a7d7$710b1ca0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> <004401c8a7d7$710b1ca0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <008c01c8a7dc$7be94cf0$210110ac@bobspc> Bob, I did my pan a few weeks back and it was spotless......not a hint of sludge. I've been using Castrol or Pennzoil 20/50 pretty much exclusively for about 10 years now. I change the oil every 3000 miles and at the beginning and end of the driving season so it gets changed 3 times a year. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 3:55 PM To: forzion at maine.rr.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Sump bolts, pan? We are all curious.......... What kind of oil have you been using and how clean was the pan? Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "David Friedlander" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 9:23 AM Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts > Hey List ! > > I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off > this morning. > Now that I am ready to replace the pan, using a new gasket, I realize > that six of the > 23 sump bolts are maybe a 1/4" longer that the others. Is this simply > the work of the > DPO or are these longer bolts the way it came from the factory ? Id > these are stock, > I'd be curious to know if their location on the sump matters.... > > Thanks for any insights... > > Cheers, > > Dave Friedlander > CF25194U+O+TBI > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1399 - Release Date: 4/26/2008 2:17 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Apr 26 14:45:32 2008 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 16:45:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> References: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <008d01c8a7de$7a92f9d0$210110ac@bobspc> Dave, I don't remember exactly how many of the longer bolts there are but if you look closely at your pan, you'll see some sections that are reinforced, almost a double thickness. That's where the longer bolts go. While the pan's off you might want to check the 4 bolts holes in the aluminum blocks at the front and rear of the engine. These are very prone to stripping if the bolt has been over-tightened. Two of mine were fine and two I ended up tapping with 3/8" coarse thread. If you tap it, a 3/8-16" requires a dill size of .3125 or 5/16". Here's a good tap & die chart reference http://www.imperialinc.com/pdf/I_Tap&DieChart.pdf Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 12:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts Hey List ! I am in the midst of replacing my sump gasket and pulled the pan off this morning. Now that I am ready to replace the pan, using a new gasket, I realize that six of the 23 sump bolts are maybe a 1/4" longer that the others. Is this simply the work of the DPO or are these longer bolts the way it came from the factory ? Id these are stock, I'd be curious to know if their location on the sump matters.... Thanks for any insights... Cheers, Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 8.0.93 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1399 - Release Date: 4/26/2008 2:17 PM From rpeglow at optonline.net Sat Apr 26 18:41:39 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 17:41:39 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts, pan? References: <48135708.3050700@maine.rr.com> <004401c8a7d7$710b1ca0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <008c01c8a7dc$7be94cf0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <00ab01c8a7ff$75057490$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I was always a Castrol user. TR3 and TR250 years ago and all cars since. Last fall I acquired a very original (Oct '70) 71 TR6. I was going to drop the pan because I had an oil drip and the pan was wet with oil. The oil in the car was crystal clear but seemed thin. I could not determine what oil had been used prior. This was last fall when the first ZDDP emails were flying around. I cleaned the charcoal filter and I put Rotella T 15W-40 oil in and figured I'd enjoy the car a little. Anyway, car is not dripping oil anymore, I'll drop the pan, check for sludge and change the gasket another time.............. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Bob'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, April 26, 2008 1:31 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] Sump bolts, pan? > Bob, > I did my pan a few weeks back and it was spotless......not a hint of sludge. > I've been using Castrol or Pennzoil 20/50 pretty much exclusively for about > 10 years now. I change the oil every 3000 miles and at the beginning and end > of the driving season so it gets changed 3 times a year. > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From apackard68 at comcast.net Sat Apr 26 15:56:51 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:56:51 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rear hub part needed Message-ID: <20080426215927.54C99187653@autox.team.net> Hello all: I had a local shop (Wolff's) disassemble and reseal my rear TR250 hubs. Everything went fine on the one side, not so much on the other. The Driving Flange Assy (the part holding the wheel studs) was snapped off at the flange, leaving about 2 inches of material in the hub itself. The Moss part number is 674-950, TRF part number 210979. Both are selling for nearly $200. Anyone out there have a good used one I could buy for less than new? Please contact me off list if you have a spare laying around that you'd be willing to part with. Andy CD6746L HVDA From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sat Apr 26 16:51:12 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 26 Apr 2008 15:51:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Sump bolts In-Reply-To: David Friedlander 's message of Sat, 26 Apr 2008 14:59:57 -0400 Message-ID: <20108-4813B1E0-5018@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Dave---If I lay a straight edge across my pan from front to back I also see what you see. About 1/8 inch difference. I wonder how many others have noticed this on their pans, or whether we two have ones that are "sprung". In any case I take this into consideration when bolting the pan back up to the block. Apparantly the bolts pull it straight again, as there's no apparant leaks. (I do use a sealer along with the pan gasket, and flatten the area around the bot holes. I also seal the bolt threads before installing) I use an electric screwdriver with a loose clutch setting to spin the bolts up. I don't use a torque wrench, but a 1/4 inch drive ratchet and extension for the final torquing, going around to all bolts several times. More instinct than science. Dick From: forzion at maine.rr.com(David Friedlander) Date: Rick/Dick; I believe you wrote me about this last month, when I queried you about this, as I knew this was a task I needed to get to. I have followed those directions and find that a number of the the pan bolt holes halfway down the sides were raised a bit. I did my best to level them I note that the pan itself seems to also have a slight 'arc' to it, front to back. Perhaps the bolts themselves take care of that when tightened up. I am looking at the Bentley's page 52. Am I correct in reading the torque table there, that the sump bolt torque is listed under "Sump Attachment, and should be 15-20 ft/lbs? I have now spread some Right Stuff on the side between the sump pan and gasket and it is ready to go. The package of Right Stuff I bought comes in a 5-oz. caulking tube with a small caulking gun. Since it sets-up pretty quickly, I wasn't going to apply any more sealant to the sump side of the gasket until I was ready to install it. So, I've been awaiting the answer on the longer bolts before proceeding. Seems like there is some opinion of placing the longer bolts in the reinforced sections of the pan. Getting to that now! Thanks for your help.... Thanks for any insights... Cheers, Dave Friedlander CF25194U+O+TBI From im_sloane at hotmail.com Sun Apr 27 14:12:37 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 20:12:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Count me in for a set, as long as we can find a good set of seats. What's your guess on the cost? Sloane :)> Who's interested? I'll copy Jack here, so include a reply to Jack.> > Joe A > _______________________________________________> _________________________________________________________________ Express yourself wherever you are. Mobilize! http://www.gowindowslive.com/Mobile/Landing/Messenger/Default.aspx?Locale=en- US?ocid=TAG_APRIL From johncnorth at gmail.com Sun Apr 27 16:34:18 2008 From: johncnorth at gmail.com (John North) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:34:18 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tire age Message-ID: <49f668fe0804271534l3e73cfd9j8fad70da248fa38f@mail.gmail.com> I hear you can tell the year of manufacture from the DOT numbers... Mine are Michelin X with DOT FHTJ A8NX 111, a second has 061 and a third 152 at the end instead of 111. I know for sure these are at least 7 or 8 years old, which means they should be replaced, but for curiosity, how old are they? John North From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Apr 27 20:02:49 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:02:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Tire age References: <49f668fe0804271534l3e73cfd9j8fad70da248fa38f@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <00fd01c8a8d3$f620f520$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> I contacted Michelin with the exact same series numbers. Redline tire with tube marked made in France? My tire is FHTJA8NX 015.... 01 is month 5 is year - 1985. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "John North" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 3:34 PM Subject: [6pack] Tire age > I hear you can tell the year of manufacture from the DOT numbers... > Mine are Michelin X with DOT FHTJ A8NX 111, a second has 061 and a > third 152 at the end instead of 111. I know for sure these are at > least 7 or 8 years old, which means they should be replaced, but for > curiosity, how old are they? > > John North > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Sun Apr 27 17:21:42 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:21:42 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Tire age References: <49f668fe0804271534l3e73cfd9j8fad70da248fa38f@mail.gmail.com> <00fd01c8a8d3$f620f520$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <01a701c8a8bd$744b33f0$c7fba8c0@hp> The DOT Code is an alphanumeric character sequence molded into the sidewall of the tire for purposes of tire identification. The DOT Code is mandated by the US Department of Transportation. The DOT Code is useful in identifying tires in a product recall. The DOT Code begins with the letters "DOT" followed by a two numbers or letters plant code that identifies where it was manufactured. The last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. A three-digit code was used for tires manufactured before the year 2000. For example, 178 means it was manufactured in the 17th week of 8th year of the decade. In this case it means 1988. For tires manufactured in the 1990s, the same code holds true, but there is a little triangle (N) after the DOT code. Thus, a tire manufactured in the 17th week of 1998 would have the code 178N. After 2000, the code was switched to a 4-digit code. Same rules apply, so for example, 3003 means the tire was manufactured in the 30th week of 2003 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob To: John North ; Triumph 6 Pack Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 10:02 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire age I contacted Michelin with the exact same series numbers. Redline tire with tube marked made in France? My tire is FHTJA8NX 015.... 01 is month 5 is year - 1985. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "John North" To: "Triumph 6 Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 3:34 PM Subject: [6pack] Tire age > I hear you can tell the year of manufacture from the DOT numbers... > Mine are Michelin X with DOT FHTJ A8NX 111, a second has 061 and a > third 152 at the end instead of 111. I know for sure these are at > least 7 or 8 years old, which means they should be replaced, but for > curiosity, how old are they? > > John North > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as rmcbride at mi.rr.com -- No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.524 / Virus Database: 269.23.5/1400 - Release Date: 4/27/2008 9:39 AM From forzion at maine.rr.com Sun Apr 27 17:23:37 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:23:37 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip Message-ID: <48150AF9.6090707@maine.rr.com> Hey List! Am am installing a new windscreen and have the gasket installed into the new window with a non-hardening sealer. The chromed plastic finisher strip, however, is like a coiled spring! Also, the gasket groove into which it is supposed to fit (before installing it into the windscreen frame, according to the Moss instructions) doesn't really hold the strip firmly in place - if I installed the windscreen into the frame, I am sure the groove for the finisher strip would then close-up too much to install it! I have now uncoiled the strip and clipped each end, stretching it ut as full-length as I can. Maybe tomorrow it will behave better... Are there any tricks for installation of this? I know the list has covered this in olden times but I see nothing on this on VTR, Buckeye, the 6-Pack archives... Any help appreciated.... Cheers! Dave CF25194U+O+TBI From lfm614 at aol.com Sun Apr 27 17:31:35 2008 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 23:31:35 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip In-Reply-To: <48150AF9.6090707@maine.rr.com> References: <48150AF9.6090707@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <1189694864-1209339096-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1990284354-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> David, Install it after the windshield is in. I got it started at the center top and used a rubber mallet to keep tapping it around then cut to length. It also helps to use some liquid soap in the groove, it got in there with a plastic (picnic type) knife usind the dull side of the blade. Lou -----Original Message----- From: David Friedlander Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:23:37 To:6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip Hey List! Am am installing a new windscreen and have the gasket installed into the new window with a non-hardening sealer. The chromed plastic finisher strip, however, is like a coiled spring! Also, the gasket groove into which it is supposed to fit (before installing it into the windscreen frame, according to the Moss instructions) doesn't really hold the strip firmly in place - if I installed the windscreen into the frame, I am sure the groove for the finisher strip would then close-up too much to install it! I have now uncoiled the strip and clipped each end, stretching it ut as full-length as I can. Maybe tomorrow it will behave better... Are there any tricks for installation of this? I know the list has covered this in olden times but I see nothing on this on VTR, Buckeye, the 6-Pack archives... Any help appreciated.... Cheers! Dave CF25194U+O+TBI _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Sun Apr 27 17:51:02 2008 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 16:51:02 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Fw: Oil Change after the Winter - Essential? Message-ID: <228694.10944.qm@web65601.mail.ac4.yahoo.com> I always change my oil and filter at the end of the driving season, so its clean now. I just pulled the dipstick, looks perfect. The car sits in an unheated garage. Winters are very cold and dry here on the Canadian Prairies. I used 15W40 rated CG-4, CH-4 CF/SH. I'll add some Lucas or STP oil supplement. I know many change their oil again at the beginning of the season, but is this really necessary? Seems a waste to dump clean oil. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 ________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail __________________________________________________________________ Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Apr 27 20:52:32 2008 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:52:32 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Tire age References: <49f668fe0804271534l3e73cfd9j8fad70da248fa38f@mail.gmail.com> <00fd01c8a8d3$f620f520$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> <01a701c8a8bd$744b33f0$c7fba8c0@hp> Message-ID: <011d01c8a8da$e7c0d390$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> My Michelins do not have the triangle (1980 series) , good point John, thanks. Regards, Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: Robert McBride To: Bob ; John North ; Triumph 6 Pack Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 4:21 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire age The DOT Code is an alphanumeric character sequence molded into the sidewall of the tire for purposes of tire identification. The DOT Code is mandated by the US Department of Transportation. The DOT Code is useful in identifying tires in a product recall. The DOT Code begins with the letters "DOT" followed by a two numbers or letters plant code that identifies where it was manufactured. The last four numbers represent the week and year the tire was built. A three-digit code was used for tires manufactured before the year 2000. For example, 178 means it was manufactured in the 17th week of 8th year of the decade. In this case it means 1988. For tires manufactured in the 1990s, the same code holds true, but there is a little triangle (N) after the DOT code. Thus, a tire manufactured in the 17th week of 1998 would have the code 178N. After 2000, the code was switched to a 4-digit code. Same rules apply, so for example, 3003 means the tire was manufactured in the 30th week of 2003 ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob To: John North ; Triumph 6 Pack Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 10:02 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Tire age I contacted Michelin with the exact same series numbers. Redline tire with tube marked made in France? My tire is FHTJA8NX 015.... 01 is month 5 is year - 1985. Regards, Bob From forzion at maine.rr.com Sun Apr 27 18:20:52 2008 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 20:20:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip In-Reply-To: <1189694864-1209339096-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1990284354-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <48150AF9.6090707@maine.rr.com> <1189694864-1209339096-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1990284354-@bxe005.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <48151864.9090600@maine.rr.com> Really? Cool. The Moss catalog specifically says to install the strip (and joining clip) first. But, I guess I'll try doing it after I install the windscreen into the frame and see what happens. Hope you're right, Lou, 'cause, once it's into the frame, I don't want to be taking it out again, anytime soon! Cheers! Dave lfm614 at aol.com wrote: >David, > >Install it after the windshield is in. I got it started at the center top and used a rubber mallet to keep tapping it around then cut to length. It also helps to use some liquid soap in the groove, it got in there with a plastic (picnic type) knife usind the dull side of the blade. > >Lou > > >-----Original Message----- >From: David Friedlander > >Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:23:37 >To:6pack at autox.team.net >Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip > > >Hey List! > >Am am installing a new windscreen and have the gasket installed into the >new window with >a non-hardening sealer. The chromed plastic finisher strip, however, is >like a coiled >spring! Also, the gasket groove into which it is supposed to fit (before >installing it into >the windscreen frame, according to the Moss instructions) doesn't really >hold the strip >firmly in place - if I installed the windscreen into the frame, I am >sure the groove for the >finisher strip would then close-up too much to install it! I have now >uncoiled the strip >and clipped each end, stretching it ut as full-length as I can. Maybe >tomorrow it will >behave better... Are there any tricks for installation of this? I know >the list has covered >this in olden times but I see nothing on this on VTR, Buckeye, the >6-Pack archives... > >Any help appreciated.... > >Cheers! > >Dave >CF25194U+O+TBI >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 27 18:38:55 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 20:38:55 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alignment Specs Message-ID: <48151C9F.4060304@snet.net> I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John Mitchell 76 TR6 From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 27 19:01:32 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:01:32 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alignment specs Message-ID: <481521EC.2050207@snet.net> Actually I should have said I have excessive toe-out. I measure about 5 degree toe out on my Manco gauge. JM I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John Mitchell 76 TR6 _______________________________________________ From tr6parts at charter.net Sun Apr 27 19:12:01 2008 From: tr6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:12:01 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Raising compression Message-ID: <00b301c8a8cc$dd11b8a0$1905a942@alan> I know this was mentioned ahile ago , but I can't find it. I have a 76 motor, and I want to raise the compression to 9 to 1. How much would the head need to be milled? thanks Al Salvatore From FSZEK at aol.com Sun Apr 27 19:25:48 2008 From: FSZEK at aol.com (FSZEK at aol.com) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:25:48 EDT Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal Message-ID: I'm in . What a good investment for the future of our cars. **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 27 19:43:03 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:43:03 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Alignment specs In-Reply-To: John Mitchell 's message of Sun, 27 Apr 2008 21:01:32 -0400 Message-ID: <3867-48152BA7-2710@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> John M.----Having the rear adjusters makes this job easy. You can use a spirit level against a stick of 2x2, against the wheel rim. (Spin the rim to be sure it's reasonably true. If you raise the rear of the car to check the rim [without the beauty trim ring], then you must roll the car back, then forward for approx. six feet to settle the suspension) Adjust the wheel camber to get the bubble level,with no one in the car. This is not a critical degree, as noted with the large +/- tolerances in the Bentley. Also, since you have the toe adjusting tool, you can do this yourself, if you choose. Set the front wheels to have between 1/16 1/8 inch toe in. Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: jmitch at snet.net(John Mitchell) Date: Sun, Apr 27, 2008, 9:01pm (PDT+3) To: 6pack at autox.team.net (6-Pack), triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Alignment specs Actually I should have said I have excessive toe-out. I measure about 5 degree toe out on my Manco gauge. JM I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John Mitchell 76 TR6 ______________________________________________ ______________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Apr 27 19:49:11 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 18:49:11 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip In-Reply-To: David Friedlander 's message of Sun, 27 Apr 2008 20:20:52 -0400 Message-ID: <3866-48152D17-5500@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Dave---Save the straight length of your old trim strip. All of the new ones shrink and eventually can't be covered by a trim clip. As the "new" trim shrinks, cut a piece of the old one to fill the gap. Use two trim clips to cover each end. You could end up with an added several inches, over time. Dick From jmitch at snet.net Sun Apr 27 20:21:47 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 22:21:47 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alignment specs In-Reply-To: <3867-48152BA7-2710@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> References: <3867-48152BA7-2710@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <481534BB.2030906@snet.net> Actually, it does track nice and straight, so if I'm careful with the number of turns on each tie-rod, I can probably do it myself. I calculate that 2 degrees in would be in spec. I've got the rear camber at 0 degrees, thinking that it will go slightly negative with weight on board. I put an old Michelin redline on that corner and the scrubbing sound goes away, which I attribute to the much smaller contact patch. Thanks for the advice. John Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > John M.----Having the rear adjusters makes this job easy. You can use a > spirit level against a stick of 2x2, against the wheel rim. (Spin the > rim to be sure it's reasonably true. If you raise the rear of the car to > check the rim [without the beauty trim ring], then you must roll the car > back, then forward for approx. six feet to settle the suspension) Adjust > the wheel camber to get the bubble level,with no one in the car. This is > not a critical degree, as noted with the large +/- tolerances in the > Bentley. > > Also, since you have the toe adjusting tool, you can do this yourself, > if you choose. Set the front wheels to have between 1/16 1/8 inch toe > in. > > Dick > > Actually I should have said I have excessive toe-out. I > measure about 5 degree toe out on my Manco gauge. JM > I need to take the TR6 in for alignment as it appears I have > excessive toe in. The right front wheel seems to be scrubbing the > pavement on full left turns. I have 205-70-15" tires on wire wheels and > also have installed Goodparts rear trailing arm adjusters. What specs > should I ask for for front toe-in and rear camber angle. The numbers in > Bentley are for the car with 2 passengers on board and it won't be that > way when it gets aligned. Any advice would be appreciated. John > Mitchell 76 TR6 > ______________________________________________ > ______________________________________ From rgrothstein at yahoo.com Sun Apr 27 20:27:16 2008 From: rgrothstein at yahoo.com (Bob Rothstein) Date: Sun, 27 Apr 2008 19:27:16 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Oil Change after the Winter - Essential? Message-ID: <863513.63000.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Bruce - You're right - it's a shame to dump out what seems to be good oil. But while your car is hibernating the oil is getting mildly hydrated from condensation, and there are opportunities for microns of dirt and sludge to enter the engine and build up. I leave the oil in the crankcase at season's end. In the spring I change the oil along with other start-up maintenance that I perform - this gives me confidence that the engine has really fresh oil - without feeling like I've done an extra oil change. Bob Rothstein Vienna, VA '68 TR-250 ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From rmcbride at mi.rr.com Mon Apr 28 05:13:52 2008 From: rmcbride at mi.rr.com (Robert McBride) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 07:13:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Oil Change after the Winter - Essential? References: <863513.63000.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <025701c8a920$f15905d0$c7fba8c0@hp> Bob R I think your way is the worst thing you can do... you are leaving all the water, acid and dirt in the engine over winter?? I think It's much better to change after the last ride in the fall and then run that oil the next spring... Bob M ----- Original Message ----- From: Bob Rothstein To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 10:27 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Oil Change after the Winter - Essential? Bruce - You're right - it's a shame to dump out what seems to be good oil. But while your car is hibernating the oil is getting mildly hydrated from condensation, and there are opportunities for microns of dirt and sludge to enter the engine and build up. I leave the oil in the crankcase at season's end. In the spring I change the oil along with other start-up maintenance that I perform - this gives me confidence that the engine has really fresh oil - without feeling like I've done an extra oil change. Bob Rothstein Vienna, VA '68 TR-250 From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Mon Apr 28 06:22:14 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 05:22:14 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <45208.77444.qm@web54108.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Count me in Joe (and Jack)! I've already got the Miata seats, so the timing is great for me. Raymond --- N197TR4 at cs.com wrote: > Six Pack, > > The recent activity on this subject seems to beg for a bracket design, so > more Miata seats can be adapted to the TR6s...and I presume TR4s, too. > > There's a couple of retired John Deere manufacturing guys who do this kind of > > thing. One is 'Uncle Jack'. He has a very nice TR6 with Miata Seats. I > talked to him today and asked him if he would be interested in this as a > project. > It seems very worthwhile for the Triumph Community. He was enthusiastic about > > the idea > > Jack can design it based on what he has now and improve further on it. My son > > can finalize the drawings for best manufacturability, then schedule for > production on CNC equipment. They likely could produce 25-50 sets very > economically....if there is enough advance interest. > > Jack is off to New York for a wedding, but will return shortly. NFI on my > part. I just think it is a good idea. > > Who's interested? I'll copy Jack here, so include a reply to Jack. > > Joe A ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Apr 28 06:47:08 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 08:47:08 EDT Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal Message-ID: > Count me in Joe (and Jack)! > > I've already got the Miata seats, so the timing is great for me. > > Raymond > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------ ----------------------------------- 6 Pack List Thanks everyone! Jack should be back shortly from New York. Information has been gathered on other designs and Jack has the Miata seats in his gorgeous TR6. These designs can be refined for production. 25-50 'kits' would make for an economical production run, based on past experience. Seems like there is a market for at least that range. This wont happen right away, because there are race engines to assembly and some places to go, in the short term. But it can happen. All of the resources are in place. I cant speak for Jack's time, but I'll help when I can. I'll summarize the list of candidates so far....sometime soon. If there are more, jump in now. Joe Alexander From N197TR4 at cs.com Mon Apr 28 08:04:12 2008 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 10:04:12 EDT Subject: [6pack] Miata Seat Bracket-Design & Manufacture Proposal Message-ID: Six Pack I have (7) names on my Excel Spreadsheet for Uncle Jack, so far. 10-15 names makes a good number for planning a production run of 25 sets. Dont be afraid to jump in as a candidate. Joe A. > Count me in Joe (and Jack)! > > I've already got the Miata seats, so the timing is great for me. > > Raymond > > From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Apr 28 09:25:26 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 11:25:26 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] Oil Change after the Winter - Essential? In-Reply-To: <025701c8a920$f15905d0$c7fba8c0@hp> References: <863513.63000.qm@web34304.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <025701c8a920$f15905d0$c7fba8c0@hp> Message-ID: On Mon, 28 Apr 2008, Robert McBride wrote: > Bob R I think your way is the worst thing you can do... you are leaving > all the water, acid and dirt in the engine over winter?? I think It's much > better to change after the last ride in the fall and then run that oil the > next spring... Bob M I agree - storing the car with all that acid is bad, bad, bad for the bearings. I can tell when a car's been stored with used oil because the bearings turn black in spots. If you're storing your car, change the oil before you store it. I usually change the oil after 500 miles or so in the spring. If you don't run your engine at all during the winter, you still get degradation of the oil in the sump, so you should change it again in the spring even if you don't drive the car. An oil change is $25. New bearings cost a lot more than $25! Not changing the oil is false economy. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Apr 28 09:31:26 2008 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 08:31:26 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip In-Reply-To: <48150AF9.6090707@maine.rr.com> References: <48150AF9.6090707@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: Dave: There is a spiffy tool that Mini owners know all about. Check it out here: http://www.7ent.com/sub.cfm?lastfound=16&rownum=5&id=326. It is called a windshield filler strip tool. It spreads the filler and allows you push the trim strip in pretty easily. I recommend using some Windex or soapy water as a lubricant, and threading the strip through the opening in the tip of the tool. Then spread the filler with the tip and slide the tool along the groove. The trim goes in slicker than snot on a glass door knob. Vance Vance Navarrette Cogito Ergo Zoom I think, therefore I go fast -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of David Friedlander Sent: Sunday, April 27, 2008 4:24 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Windscreen finisher strip Hey List! Am am installing a new windscreen and have the gasket installed into the new window with a non-hardening sealer. The chromed plastic finisher strip, however, is like a coiled spring! Are there any tricks for installation of this? I know the list has Covered this in olden times but I see nothing on this on VTR, Buckeye, the 6-Pack archives... Any help appreciated.... Cheers! Dave From jmitch at snet.net Mon Apr 28 09:59:56 2008 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 11:59:56 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Alignment specs-now Manco toe in gauge Message-ID: <4815F47C.7020203@snet.net> A Manco gauge is a very low tech way of measuring toe-in, by showing the difference in width between the rear of the front tires and the front of the front tires. It will not show whether the wheels are tracking straight ahead. That can be determined if the car is pulling one direction or the other. The PDF below shows it being used on a Toro workman and includes the directions for it's use. Bob, your welcome to use it whenever you want it. I can drop it up to you next weekend if you'd like. Golf would be good too:) John http://www.toro.com/customercare/commercial/bulletins/vehicles/pdf/12-05.pdf From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Apr 28 13:01:13 2008 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 12:01:13 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Alignment specs-now Manco toe in gauge In-Reply-To: John Mitchell 's message of Mon, 28 Apr 2008 11:59:56 -0400 Message-ID: <10223-48162D09-1739@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> I agree with John M. about using only a gauge that shows the difference between the distance of the front to the rear of the front tires. (Or to the front and rear of the rear tires, for that matter) But it is a good clue tho to know this measurement. When used with another low-tech method, namely the "String Alignment". one can end up with four wheels that compliment each other. My tires wear as true doing it this way, as it would using the Optical Alignment method used by the pros. Dick From: jmitch at snet.net(John Mitchell) A Manco gauge is a very low tech way of measuring toe-in, by showing the difference in width between the rear of the front tires and the front of the front tires. It will not show whether the wheels are tracking straight ahead. That can be determined if the car is pulling one direction or the other. The PDF below shows it being used on a Toro workman and includes the directions for it's use. Bob, your welcome to use it whenever you want it. I can drop it up to you next weekend if you'd like. Golf would be good too:) John http://www.toro.com/customercare/commercial/bulletins/vehicles/pdf/12-05.pdf ______________________________________________ From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Apr 28 19:03:18 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 01:03:18 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TR 250 crash pads from TRF Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA81497B@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> A fellow TR enthusiast from the UK is asking about the TRF crash pads for the TR250. I have no first hand experience other than the TR6 dash pads that I bought from TRF many years ago that fit and still look like new so I would be interested in hearing from anyone that has bought these recently from TRF and can verify that they are the usual high quality items. Thanks Stan From sloseke at holly.colostate.edu Mon Apr 28 20:07:04 2008 From: sloseke at holly.colostate.edu (Shawn J. Loseke) Date: Mon, 28 Apr 2008 20:07:04 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TR 250 crash pads from TRF Message-ID: <481D9299@webmail.colostate.edu> They are the same part, are they not? Other than the lower L/H item that changed when the ignition lock was moved from the switch plinth. So they should be the same as early TR6's. Shawn >===== Original Message From "Foster, Stan" ===== >A fellow TR enthusiast from the UK is asking about the TRF crash pads for the >TR250. I have no first hand experience other than the TR6 dash pads that I >bought from TRF many years ago that fit and still look like new so I would be >interested in hearing from anyone that has bought these recently from TRF and >can verify that they are the usual high quality items. > >Thanks > >Stan From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Tue Apr 29 01:19:28 2008 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 03:19:28 -0400 Subject: [6pack] GT6 Lemans Owner References: <481D9299@webmail.colostate.edu> Message-ID: <000701c8a9c9$5d4ce420$6101a8c0@phoenix> Listers, Can anyone tell me who the owner is of a #65 racing green and yellow GT6 Lemans seen at the 2007 VTR Convention? Thanks in advance. Greg Dito CD6250L From emanteno at comcast.net Tue Apr 29 06:49:07 2008 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 12:49:07 +0000 Subject: [6pack] GT6 Lemans Owner Message-ID: <042920081249.29990.48171943000BA6A6000075262207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Greg Dito" > Listers, > > Can anyone tell me who the owner is of a #65 racing green and yellow GT6 > Lemans seen at the 2007 VTR Convention? Bob Totten, from MA. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From 70tr6 at mindspring.com Tue Apr 29 08:29:15 2008 From: 70tr6 at mindspring.com (Ashford Little) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 10:29:15 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Raising compression In-Reply-To: <00b301c8a8cc$dd11b8a0$1905a942@alan> References: <00b301c8a8cc$dd11b8a0$1905a942@alan> Message-ID: <9B7A2494-38B3-48AA-9FE4-0F20249EA5D6@mindspring.com> Al, this should be avoided at all costs. Raising the compression results in more power and the desire to go faster. To go faster one must push on the "go fast" pedal - that's the one on the right btw. Raised compression also makes one desirous of things like hotter cams, roller rockers (good ones that is, nevermind), fancier exhausts and such. All of these things detract from bling of which you are the king of. How about a nice landau roof? Ashford '70 TR6 On Apr 27, 2008, at 9:12 PM, Alan Salvatore wrote: > I know this was mentioned ahile ago , but I can't find it. > I have a 76 motor, and I want to raise the compression to 9 to 1. > How much would the head need to be milled? > thanks > > Al Salvatore From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Apr 29 19:11:52 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 21:11:52 -0400 Subject: [6pack] Blank Window Sticker References: <20080429202628.11429.qmail@s465.sureserver.com> <4817AF54.1050400@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00c201c8aa5f$2d0b00d0$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks Joe, the PDF reads fine into Illustrator ... Once I find a matching font, that will make it easy for anyone to create their own window stickers ... the best match I've found so far is OCR B MT. At 9pt and expanding the font width by 120%, it matches most of the characteristics of the typeface (the 4 needs a little more expansion). The "W" is the problem .... but if the entire doc is redone using that font, I doubt anyone would notice the curved "W" legs against the BL straight legs. Anyone else with any thoughts on the font in use? See http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif for an image of my edit of Joes super scan! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** >> >> >>> -------Original Message------- >>> From: Joe Burlein >>> Subject: Blank Window Sticker >>> Sent: Apr 29 '08 14:28 >>> Here is my first round of blanks.... From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Tue Apr 29 21:17:20 2008 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 23:17:20 -0400 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Blank Window Sticker References: <18085084.595041209524971944.JavaMail.root@vms068.mailsrvcs.net> Message-ID: <015301c8aa70$b3ee7f30$65fba8c0@D1TG6Y71> Craig, That is very kind, but you have give me the well deserved credit due to Joe Burlein ... he did all the editing and cleaning up! All I did was to add a font sample to Joe's excellent work in the hope that we could use a similar font to create our own window stickers ... although I should acknowledge that without your original scan, we would not be where we are now, so many thanks to you both! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: To: "Tony Gordon" ; "Joe Burlein" Cc: "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net>; "TR list" Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 11:09 PM Subject: Re: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > Tony, > > Hey thanks for doing that. I had to look at it twice to realize it was my > sticker with all the stuff to customize taken off! Way cool. This is one > of this times you wish you had a financial interest! > > You questions about options is a tough one. I provided you the list > presented to me as original, but your questions are legit. > > I also have a both 72 brochure's, and the PI version from the UK. In my > insanity, I also came accross a 72 dealer portfolio, Triumph history sales > brochure, and a Consumer information sales brochure all for the 72. If > any of these could help you, let me know. > > I also received my new rear lense thanks to the list. > > Craig Nicholls > Vienna, VA > 1972 Triumph TR6 > > > From: Tony Gordon > Date: 2008/04/29 Tue PM 08:11:52 CDT > To: Joe Burlein > Cc: TR list , 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> > Subject: Re: [TR] Blank Window Sticker > > Thanks Joe, the PDF reads fine into Illustrator ... Once I find a matching > font, that will make it easy for anyone to create their own window > stickers > ... the best match I've found so far is OCR B MT. At 9pt and expanding > the > font width by 120%, it matches most of the characteristics of the typeface > (the 4 needs a little more expansion). The "W" is the problem .... but if > the entire doc is redone using that font, I doubt anyone would notice the > curved "W" legs against the BL straight legs. > > Anyone else with any thoughts on the font in use? See > http://www.2simpleusa.com/triumphlist/TR-6-Window-Sticker-Blank-FONT-TEST.gif > for an image of my edit of Joes super scan! From apackard68 at comcast.net Wed Apr 30 00:41:35 2008 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Tue, 29 Apr 2008 23:41:35 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Rear Hub part follow-up and wheel cylinder installation Message-ID: <20080430064415.B7A4B187646@autox.team.net> I believe I contacted all responders directly, but in case I didn't and to thank the list as an incredible resource, I wanted to provide an update. A list member from Ohio offered to send me two of his spare hubs off his storage shelf to salvage the part I need. Many thanks to all who responded with many options to quickly solve my problem at significant cost savings. In anticipation of my hubs being ready soon, I spent part of tonight helicoiling my trailing arm studs. It's a pretty simple yet tedious process that should yield good results. Does anyone recall the distance the studs should extend from the trailing arm? Mine are just under an inch when tightened down. On Sunday evening on my back patio, I tackled the real PITA job of securing the rear wheel cylinders to the back plate. Those three metal tabs, the rubber boot, and a little extra thickness to the back plate due to powder coating made it as difficult as ever. I've done this job three times previously, often with the result of a bent final tab that ends up never being installed. This time, though, using new securing tabs and some rubber grease on the parts, I was able to get equally great results on each wheel cylinder. The final tab was still troublesome, and I did jab a screwdriver into the palm of my hand while coercing the final tab into place, but the end product was the best I've been able to do in all my efforts. I sure some of you can empathize with the pain of this task. Still making slow steps forward with my resto. Andy CD6746L HVDA From cgrimes at golden.net Wed Apr 30 08:27:00 2008 From: cgrimes at golden.net (Colin Grimes) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 10:27:00 -0400 Subject: [6pack] High back seat refurbish Message-ID: <000801c8aace$41486eb0$0602a8c0@norman> I have a pair of stripped seats with good foam that i plan to recover does anyone have the location of a guide for this ? From im_sloane at hotmail.com Wed Apr 30 09:21:09 2008 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:21:09 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: <125454.53667.qm@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <125454.53667.qm@web36103.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Team, Regarding the Miata seat conversion, do only specific year/ranges seats fit in a TR? What works? Sloane :) _________________________________________________________________ Spell a grand slam in this game where word skill meets World Series. Get in the game. http://club.live.com/word_slugger.aspx?icid=word_slugger_wlhm_admod_april08 From iron_horse819 at yahoo.com Wed Apr 30 10:21:34 2008 From: iron_horse819 at yahoo.com (Raymond Hatfield) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 09:21:34 -0700 (PDT) Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <670653.76971.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Hi Sloane, My understanding is that any year Miata seats will fit, tho most people prefer the 90-97 with the headrest speakers. Raymond L. Hatfield --- im sloane wrote: > Team, > Regarding the Miata seat conversion, do only specific year/ranges seats fit > in > a TR? What works? > > Sloane :) ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Apr 30 12:21:26 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 18:21:26 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Miata seat bracket In-Reply-To: <670653.76971.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> References: <670653.76971.qm@web54110.mail.re2.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814980@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> And those speakers in the mid 90's seats will need to be replaced as they are designed for the Miata audio system and will not be suitable for anything else. There is enough room in the headrests for some 3" full range speakers after a bit of hackery with the foam. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Raymond Hatfield Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 12:22 PM To: im sloane; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Miata seat bracket Hi Sloane, My understanding is that any year Miata seats will fit, tho most people prefer the 90-97 with the headrest speakers. Raymond L. Hatfield --- im sloane wrote: > Team, > Regarding the Miata seat conversion, do only specific year/ranges seats fit > in > a TR? What works? > > Sloane :) From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Apr 30 12:29:14 2008 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 18:29:14 +0000 Subject: [6pack] GT6 Lemans Owner In-Reply-To: <042920081249.29990.48171943000BA6A6000075262207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net> References: <042920081249.29990.48171943000BA6A6000075262207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net> Message-ID: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814981@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> I could be mistaken but I believe Bob's car is a 1963 MK1 Spit with a hardtop, not a GT6. Great looking car. Here he is in action at the VTR convention last year. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/NET%20VTR%202007/023.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of emanteno at comcast.net Sent: Tuesday, April 29, 2008 8:49 AM To: Greg Dito; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] GT6 Lemans Owner -------------- Original message -------------- From: "Greg Dito" > Listers, > > Can anyone tell me who the owner is of a #65 racing green and yellow GT6 > Lemans seen at the 2007 VTR Convention? Bob Totten, from MA. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL _______________________________________________ From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Apr 30 12:45:57 2008 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 14:45:57 -0400 (EDT) Subject: [6pack] GT6 Lemans Owner In-Reply-To: <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814981@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <042920081249.29990.48171943000BA6A6000075262207021573970A9D010507@comcast.net> <41D3B4ED5AF2A2498846C82A9834AF7233EA814981@GVW0414X.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: On Wed, 30 Apr 2008, Foster, Stan wrote: > I could be mistaken but I believe Bob's car is a 1963 MK1 Spit with a hardtop, > not a GT6. Great looking car. Here he is in action at the VTR convention last > year. It's a "LeMans Spitfire Replica". The actual implimentation is spitfire driveline and GT6 body with the LeMans glass fibre nose. Interestingly, the motor is a spitfire 1500. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang NER/SCCA | This space for rent Solo Chair 2008 TR6 40 F Prepared | Triumph! Voice:781-438-2568 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From TR6UO at aol.com Wed Apr 30 13:00:42 2008 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 15:00:42 EDT Subject: [6pack] L.E.D. Replacement 1157 bulbs Message-ID: My brother found some very high-tech looking LED 1157 replacement bulbs with 360 degree diodes. They come in red, white and amber. He said the red has the best effect even with a red lens. They look great on his TR6. I forgot to ask him for a part no. or what he paid for them. I can get that if anyone's interested. He got them at a place called "The Lighthouse" in Sacramento: 800-340-8216. I'm sure they're available other places. Steve **************Need a new ride? Check out the largest site for U.S. used car listings at AOL Autos. (http://autos.aol.com/used?NCID=aolcmp00300000002851) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Apr 30 17:04:21 2008 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Wed, 30 Apr 2008 18:04:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] High back seat refurbish References: <000801c8aace$41486eb0$0602a8c0@norman> Message-ID: <006601c8ab16$c00e1e00$24a7a8c0@garage.local> http://www.redrivertriumphclub.org/photogallery/TR6_seats/TR6_seats_ms_v1_2007_9_2.ppt#258,1,Updating TR6 Seats ----- Original Message ----- From: "Colin Grimes" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, April 30, 2008 9:27 AM Subject: [6pack] High back seat refurbish >I have a pair of stripped seats with good foam that i plan to recover does > anyone have the location of a guide for this ?