From mark at bradakis.com Sun Dec 9 23:34:49 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sun, 09 Dec 2007 23:34:49 -0700 Subject: [6pack] List changes Message-ID: <475CDE09.2020407@bradakis.com> In case you are wondering about that odd email welcoming you to a list you already receive, I've switched 6pack at autox.team.net from majordomo to mailman list management software. Some things will be different, some will be the same. As before, if you want to send mail to 6pack at autox.team.net you send mail to 6pack at autox.team.net - you'd be surprised at how many folks can NOT figure that one out! With Mailman, managing your subscription should be more web friendly. You can go to the web pages listed in the messages and muck about with your settings. One major change is that there is now just the one list 6pack at autox.team.net, the list 6pack-digest at autox.team.net no longer exists. But this doesn't mean there is no digest format, it just means that one doesn't need to unsubscribe from one list and subscribe to the other just to switch formats. Go to the list pages, log in, and select digest or non-digest as you desire. Another handy option is the 'nomail' feature. If you are going to be away from your email for a while, you can set your membership to nomail, and then back to regular delivery upon your return. A bit easier than having to unsubscribe and then subscribe again. A useful way to make use of the nomail feature is to enable submissions from multiple addresses. For example, one might want to subscribe a-student at diploma.mill.edu as your main address. But sometimes you send mail from work, so you can subscribe busybee at monolith.com and set the second address to nomail. So messages you send from either address will pass the membership test, but you won't get multiple copies of each list message. RealSoonNow I'll have a web page that covers some more of the various differences and features. mjb. From glccrc at ptd.net Mon Dec 10 04:35:25 2007 From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 06:35:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] arm rest In-Reply-To: <001f01c83aa5$7e9a5ec0$7bcf1c40$@net> Message-ID: <20071210113601.E70831879F1@autox.team.net> Thanks, neighbor! It's now on my Christmas list, the 6 is in Matt's hands in Bally. When my wife was informed Triumph is "Marque of the year" at the Glen Vintage, she replied "Just make sure it's presentable". Guess that would mean the seats get new foam and covers, the exterior painted, new bumpers, and -well, there was all that nagging little mechanical stuff that needed looked after.....after all, we don't want it to not make it the few hours north, or break down on the road course:) If you see a blue '70 this winter top down on Rte 15, you'll know I got it back:) BTW, with headers and monza exhaust, is there any REALISTIC benefit to adding the acoustic padding to the floor, etc? Just thinking with 155 dB coming from the back, it's probably useless to try to -5 dB the underside or firewall. Now thermal insulation on the firewall, I could see:) except I need the warmth on sunny winter days. George Church 70 '6 trip webers CPTC, too -----Original Message----- From: owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net [mailto:owner-6pack at Autox.Team.Net] On Behalf Of Joe Laurito Sent: Sunday, December 09, 2007 3:53 PM To: 'John VanNorman'; '6-Pack' Subject: RE: [6pack] arm rest John; I'm going to let you in on the world's best kept secret. Go to www.jcwhitney.com and search on zx135858a. It fits like an OEM part and you don't have to pay $150. NFI Joe Laurito Central PA Triumph Club From rgperry at earthlink.net Mon Dec 10 06:17:06 2007 From: rgperry at earthlink.net (Greg Perry) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 07:17:06 -0600 (GMT-06:00) Subject: [6pack] arm rest Message-ID: <30882304.1197292626985.JavaMail.root@elwamui-muscovy.atl.sa.earthlink.net> George, I just use heavy duty aluminum foil under the carpeting and pad to reduce the heat transfer. I live in the warmer climate area down south in Texas. The foil does reduce the heat transfer! Greg Perry -----Original Message----- >From: glc / crc >BTW, with headers and monza exhaust, is there any REALISTIC benefit to >adding the acoustic padding to the floor, etc? Just thinking with 155 dB >coming from the back, it's probably useless to try to -5 dB the underside or >firewall. Now thermal insulation on the firewall, I could see:) except I >need the warmth on sunny winter days. >George Church From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 10 07:10:12 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 08:10:12 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 3 carb heat shield References: <001f01c83aa5$7e9a5ec0$7bcf1c40$@net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF1C5847D@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002c01c83b36$63f0d720$800101df@garage.local> Hi, all. we are about to get and install (finally!!) the prototype for the 3 carb heatshield, designed for the goodparts zs conversion. i'll have pictures shortly. prices will be $90 including postage to the continental US. who's interested? we'll be taking orders in a few weeks, with delivery a few weeks after that. dave northrup dallas, tx From ngwehmeyer at comcast.net Mon Dec 10 08:42:21 2007 From: ngwehmeyer at comcast.net (Neil Wehmeyer) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 07:42:21 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Test Message-ID: <001901c83b43$410d7df0$6401a8c0@Hal> This is a test post to the list From stubeatty at aol.com Mon Dec 10 08:54:11 2007 From: stubeatty at aol.com (stubeatty at aol.com) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 10:54:11 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: 3 carb heat shield In-Reply-To: <002c01c83b36$63f0d720$800101df@garage.local> References: <001f01c83aa5$7e9a5ec0$7bcf1c40$@net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF1C5847D@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <002c01c83b36$63f0d720$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <8CA095C0AAEC1A7-1124-554@MBLK-M29.sysops.aol.com> I would be very interested in seeing your prototype. I made one for mine a few years ago and it works very well. Stuart Beatty 76 Carmine Belleville Ontario -----Original Message----- From: Oliver To: '6-Pack' <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 9:10 am Subject: [6pack] 3 carb heat shield Hi, all. we are about to get and install (finally!!) the prototype for the 3 carb heatshield, designed for the goodparts zs conversion. i'll have pictures shortly. prices will be $90 including postage to the continental US. who's interested? we'll be taking orders in a few weeks, with delivery a few weeks after that. dave northrup dallas, tx 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stubeatty at aol.com ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://o.aolcdn.com/cdn.webmail.aol.com/mailtour/aol/en-us/text.htm?ncid=aolcmp00050000000003 From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Dec 10 09:56:09 2007 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 08:56:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Sway bars... (long) In-Reply-To: <002c01c83a96$aabf0550$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000501c838ce$9aa32260$210110ac@bobspc> <002c01c83a96$aabf0550$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob: Racing is so much different than cruising, I do not know if you can generalize too much. In addition, I have not raced, all I know is what I have read in my books, and what I have gleaned from my very limited experimentation over the years (Fiero, Z28 Camaro, and a Mini). Under steering is the most benign form of mis-handling, and in fact it hides a multitude of errors on the drivers part. If a car understeers, it is virtually impossible to get the car to spin, which may be why your racer friend liked it. Optimum handling is achieved when all four tires are perpendicular to the pavement and equally loaded. When cornering however, the tires move away from the vertical position. So adjusting the suspension so that the tires are not vertical at rest, but become MORE vertical while cornering will yield higher cornering forces. So tweaking the rear camber may be beneficial if the camber changes significantly when cornering hard. I would expect that this would be a secondary effect, however. Simply stated, you want minimal weight transfer (caused by body roll), a 50/50 weight distribution, and tire tread planted squarely on the pavement during cornering. Seems simple, but the dynamic weight transfer and suspension geometry changes during cornering make it complex. OK, so much for background. When the car corners, the weight transfers to the front outside corner of the car. The tread is distorted on that corner and the tire wants to tuck up under the car. So the tire needing to do the most work is least capable of doing so because of its distortion - the car starts to slide on that tire. This results in the car pushing in a straight line rather than turning when the tire reaches its traction limit. The basic strategy to deal with this is pretty simple - minimize weight transfer to the outside front tire, and extract as much work as possible from the other three tires on the car so that the outside front tire will not overload as quickly. How to do this? 1. Minimize body roll. This is done by stiffening the springs, and stiffening the sway bar(s). For a car with no sway bars, the first step is to install a front roll bar. Unfortunately, there are limits to this approach. The sway bar does two things - reduces roll, and transfers more of the work to the end of the car with the sway bar. So while lateral weight transfer is reduced, longitudinal weight transfer (from rear to front) is INCREASED. The lateral weight transfer reduction approaches diminishing returns while the longitudinal weight transfer is increasing - and at some point increasing the size of the roll bar is simply increasing understeer. This happens because the outside front tire is increasingly overloaded, and starts to slide. Make no mistake, this is better than NO sway bar at all, but the point is making the bar too big actually starts to degrade handling from its new peak. 2. Extract more work from the rear tires. This is where the rear sway bar comes in. Once the front bar is stiff enough (reduced lateral transfer) we add a rear bar to reduce longitudinal weight transfer. This further reduces body roll and lateral weight transfer as a stiffer front bar would do, but it ALSO reduces the weight transfer to the front, and so keeps the rear tires loaded so they can do more work. This delays the onset of slippage for the front outside tire. All of this is counter intuitive. If your front tires slip while cornering, your first response is to install a (larger) roll bar for the front. After all, that is where the problem is occurring. My handling books agree on a couple of basic points: A. 1/2 of the roll resistance needs to come from the springs, 1/2 needs to come from the sway bars. This precludes too large a sway bar without upgrading the springs as well. B. A BALANCE between front and rear roll stiffness. This precludes a very large front bar with no (or too small) rear sway bar. Likewise you do not want too large a rear bar, as it will make the rear end want to swing out when the rear tires get overloaded. I believe that the best strategy at this point would be a stock sized front bar (sell your current bar to a racer) and a modestly sized rear bar (5/8" - 3/4"). This will get you a better ride, higher ultimate cornering forces, and neutral handling. WARNING - a neutral car can spin since all four tires will break loose at the same time. The limit of adhesion is MUCH higher, but since the tires all slip at the same time, there is little warning when the limit is reached. Understeer on the other hand, can be clearly felt through the car and steering, giving you ample warning to "slow down". Why don't car manufacturers do this to begin with? Simple, lawsuits. By deliberately designing in understeer, Billy-bob Boyracer can't spin the car and end up plastered on the face of a bridge abutment - while his grieving relatives sue for a gazillion dollars. Cheers, Vance -----Original Message----- From: Bob Danielson [mailto:75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org] Sent: December 09, 2007 11:07 AM To: Navarrette, Vance Subject: RE: [6pack] Sway Bar Custom Mounts Vance, Just curious about the understeer comment you made. When I got my car 10 years ago, I had a restoration shop rebuild the suspension for me.........for a number of reasons. The shop was run by an ex-SCCA Triumph racer and, I seem to recall him saying he'd "set the car up" in one of his favorite handling configurations: Blue Comp Springs, Koni/Spax shocks, 7/8" front sway bar and more negative rear camber than normal. I thought too much negative rear camber promotes oversteer........ If so, does his "set up" off set each other i.e. no rear sway bar promotes understeer yet negative rear camber off sets it? I have no idea how these things work together or against each other. Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Mon Dec 10 12:20:06 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 11:20:06 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] weber carbs Message-ID: <25065.87430.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> just curious if anyone knows about the new set up thats on the weber web site for a tr6 and if anyone has it --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From keith at navyboy.com Mon Dec 10 13:26:12 2007 From: keith at navyboy.com (Keith Meinhold) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 15:26:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] weber carbs In-Reply-To: <25065.87430.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <25065.87430.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <475DA0E4.1090007@navyboy.com> It's livable, but overall im not overwhelmed and will likely put my 175's back on once they are rebuilt. The best thing is that this is all reversible. I set it up on my '76. Its pretty simple install and the quality is pretty good on all parts except the choke cable. The instructions were mostly accurate - with one exception of how to install the choke cable. The cable as assembled will not fit through the hole (from either direction) as the instructions say. Its better to disassemble the cable where it splits to two cables and reassemble once the cable are run through the firewall and the dash. A simple procedure. The choke nob looks quite different from the stock TR6, the old nob will not fit on the new assembly. Also the choke does not stay in place - eventually slides back in. Lucky for me in FL choke is not so important. Actually not happy with the choke all around - when pulled the hissing/sucking air noise is very pronounced (louder than the engine) and choke performance is iffy. I am beginning to question if there is a defect in the choke on one of my carbs. Linkage is pretty straight forward - but sometimes binds (at slightly elevated RPMs) because the moving part of the linkage runs too close the the adapter bracket. Driveability - its harder to drive the car smoothly. At first I thought I just needed to get acquainted to the new setup, but after a few months, I know its something different. It seems that most of the throttle happens in the first quarter of pedal travel, making smooth application of power is difficult, especially from a dead stop of when shifting. I have a 73' with dead DGVs - and ordered this kit for that car as well. Im interested in seeing if its just my 76 or if I get the same results on both cars. I would have tested it, but installing the wiring harness is priority on that car. john doe wrote: > just curious if anyone knows about the new set up thats on the weber web site for a tr6 and if anyone has it > > --------------------------------- > Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as keith at navyboy.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Dec 10 13:53:14 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 15:53:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] weber carbs In-Reply-To: <475DA0E4.1090007@navyboy.com> References: <25065.87430.qm@web30412.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <475DA0E4.1090007@navyboy.com> Message-ID: Hi, I'm interested in your comments about how hard it was to drive the car smoothly after the change to the MCHH carbs. Have you had the car to a tuner or taken it to a dyno? If not, you're probably not "right there" with the setup. You should run the car up to speed and sniff the exhaust to see if the mixture is close. Most Weber installs that I'm familiar with take a few iterations to get the carb to "transition" from idle jets to main jets and the primary "symptom" is that the car is "jerky". If you are epecting to bolt on Weber anything and have it work perfectly right out of the box, you will likely be dissapointed 'till you can spend some time tuning. If you have done sessions on a dyno and not been able to dial the carbs in, then you need to find another tuner. On the plus side, when you go to dial the carb in you only have to buy 2 of everything instead of 6 of everything. That makes a big difference in the cost! regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Mon Dec 10 14:01:44 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 13:01:44 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] cylinder head Message-ID: <387860.86808.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> just rebuilt the head and put everything back together .i have somekind of leak somewhere because its so loud is there any way to check . also setting in the rockers seems to be impossible any suggestions --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Dec 10 15:32:44 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 17:32:44 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] cylinder head In-Reply-To: <387860.86808.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <387860.86808.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: Hi, The leak that you describe is probably exhaust. Sometimes the manifold holder-oner-thingies don't seat well on the intake and exhaust manifolds and provide uneven pressure. Hence an exhaust leak. I usually have to re-torque them a couple of times to get everything nice and tight with no leaks. As far as setting the valves, the process described in excruciating detail in the Bentley manual. Generally, you turn the motor 'till a pair of valves are at full open (pushed down all the way" and you adjust the pair of valves that are "opposite" in the firing order. There's another method where you add 13, it's described here: http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ubbthreads.php/ubb/showflat/Number/379775 The neat thing with the process as described in the Bentley book is that you do and intake and exhaust at each "station" as opposed to the 13's method where you set either an exhaust or an intake based on which valve is down. I suppose you could do a pair if you know which valve is on the same "phase" as the one you're watching... but like I said, the "book" describes this method quite well. Just go one step at a time. Hey - _I_ can do it. 'nuff said. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From mark at bradakis.com Mon Dec 10 16:53:08 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 16:53:08 -0700 Subject: [6pack] cylinder head In-Reply-To: References: <387860.86808.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <475DD164.1030402@bradakis.com> > Generally, you turn the motor 'till a pair of valves are at full open > (pushed down all the way" and you adjust the pair of valves that > are "opposite" in the firing order. Full open? Both valves in a cylinder at once? Or do you mean 'on the rock' where the exhaust is closing and the intake opening? mjb. From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Dec 10 17:14:57 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 19:14:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Test Message-ID: <000c01c83b8a$de876540$6601a8c0@Robert> Testing 1 2 3 4 Just testing! If this were the real thing there would most likely be another post about which tires I need or how much is my car worth? Just kidding guys...Merry Christmas He He He (Ho Ho Ho is now politically incorrect) Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 10 20:27:19 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 10 Dec 2007 22:27:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] What Does It Weigh? Message-ID: <000e01c83ba5$be4143d0$210110ac@bobspc> OK.....so as I get ready to pull lots of TR6 stuff, I'm wondering....what does it weigh...in case it falls on my head! Just kidding as I'm a very cautious person but what does it weigh? Engine? Tranny? Differential? and Driveshaft? Just curious. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.16.17/1179 - Release Date: 12/9/2007 11:06 AM From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Tue Dec 11 05:22:10 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 04:22:10 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] egr valve Message-ID: <794275.40217.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> trying to eliminate the egr valve anyone knoe the exact size of the hole in the head and the manifold its for a 76 tr6 --------------------------------- Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Dec 11 06:32:47 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:32:47 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph Message-ID: Hi guys, I had a trusted local LBC mechanic replace a few U-joints, along with brake work. Now truth be told my Six is a pretty poor handling and rattley ride but of course I love it. Anyway, I seem to have a pretty bad shimmy at about 50. Not always there, but pretty bad when it is. I'm way over due for a tire balance, but could he have put something back together back there that is causing the shakes? Sloane :) '69-Six _________________________________________________________________ im is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect From jimmble at roadrunner.com Tue Dec 11 07:38:20 2007 From: jimmble at roadrunner.com (Jim Franks) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 09:38:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Test In-Reply-To: <000c01c83b8a$de876540$6601a8c0@Robert> References: <000c01c83b8a$de876540$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <475EA0DC.40401@roadrunner.com> Sorry, Robert , The test failed miserably. Jim Robert Liam Gannon wrote: > Testing 1 2 3 4 > > > > Just testing! If this were the real thing there would most likely be another > post about which tires I need or how much is my car worth? > > > > Just kidding guys...Merry Christmas He He He (Ho Ho Ho is now politically > incorrect) > > > > Robert L. Gannon > > http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html > _______________________________________________ From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Tue Dec 11 07:42:41 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 07:42:41 -0700 Subject: [6pack] arm rest In-Reply-To: <20071210113601.E70831879F1@autox.team.net> References: <001f01c83aa5$7e9a5ec0$7bcf1c40$@net> <20071210113601.E70831879F1@autox.team.net> Message-ID: I've got the monza exhaust, no headers, and put in a sound/vibration damping product. While it doesn't stop the exhaust sound, it made a real nice difference in making the car feel and sound very solid. Also made a big difference in cutting the heat coming through the floor here in the AZ summers. Marty Clark From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Dec 11 07:59:14 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 09:59:14 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] cylinder head In-Reply-To: <475DD164.1030402@bradakis.com> References: <387860.86808.qm@web30401.mail.mud.yahoo.com> <475DD164.1030402@bradakis.com> Message-ID: On Mon, 10 Dec 2007, Mark J. Bradakis wrote: > > Generally, you turn the motor 'till a pair of valves are at full open > > (pushed down all the way" and you adjust the pair of valves that > > are "opposite" in the firing order. > > Full open? Both valves in a cylinder at once? Or do you mean > 'on the rock' where the exhaust is closing and the intake opening? Full open. The "pair" are not on the same cylinder. For example, I think the book says turn the motor 'till 10 and 12 are fully down and adjust 1 and 3 - so the pair is an intake and an exhaust and you adjust and intake and exhaust (none on the same cylinder. The "on the rock" thing works where you adjust the valves on one cylinder when the other cylinder of the pair is in the state you descibe (exh closing, intake opening). The pairs for TR6 are 1/6, 2/5 and 3/4 Either method works fine. > mjb. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Tue Dec 11 08:51:16 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jimhearn1 at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 15:51:16 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph Message-ID: <121120071551.15321.475EB1F400056FF700003BD92205886014CE029D0E0A08030706@comcast.net> Usually a shimmy at a particular speed like that is tire and wheel out of balance as others have said. I have even had a shimmy around that speed after a wheel balance and since I had a long trip to take and not much time, I took it back and ask them to rebalance. Turns out they had been a little hasty on the first balance and after the second balance the shimmy was gone for good. Jim -------------- Original message -------------- From: im sloane > Hi guys, > I had a trusted local LBC mechanic replace a few U-joints, along with brake > work. Now truth be told my Six is a pretty poor handling and rattley ride but > of course I love it. Anyway, I seem to have a pretty bad shimmy at about 50. > Not always there, but pretty bad when it is. I'm way over due for a tire > balance, but could he have put something back together back there that is > causing the shakes? > > Sloane :) > '69-Six > _________________________________________________________________ > im is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a > difference. > http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Dec 11 09:10:20 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 11:10:20 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] egr valve In-Reply-To: <794275.40217.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> References: <794275.40217.qm@web30403.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: On Tue, 11 Dec 2007, john doe wrote: > trying to eliminate the egr valve anyone knoe the exact size of the hole > in the head and the manifold its for a 76 tr6 It's 3/4" fine thread. I think that means 3/4-16. I've found bolts and nuts of that size in the nutsnboltz aisle at the hardware store. Or as we say in Boston - in the hahdweah stowah. :-) rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Dec 11 09:16:59 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 11:16:59 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, Tire balance is really important. So is the shape of the tires and wheels. Make sure there's no obvious runout or wobble with those components. Next, make sure everything is tight. This sounds obvious, but it's amazing how a car can run with parts shaking loose because they weren't fastened properly. Then make sure that the shocks are working properly. Telltale signs include oil drips at / near the shocks, odd wear on the tires (somtimes your tire will "cup" when the shocks are gone. Bottom line, vibrations and shimmies are always caused by something that's not balanced, not round or loose. As far as your mechanic, we hope he/she was kidding. Any mechanic worth thier salt will love a client with an old car. It's like taking candy from a baby. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Dec 11 09:30:52 2007 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 08:30:52 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Sloan: A shimmy felt through the steering is normally tire balance or worn shocks/suspension. When you have the tires balanced, be certain to have it done with the trim rings ON the wheels. I had a shimmy that I could not get rid of - wheels balanced, new shocks, bushings, wheel bearings, etc.... Turned out that one of the trim rings was out of balance enough to make a difference. A LBC mechanic had seen it before and told me to have the tires rebalanced with the trim rings on the wheels. VOILA! No more shimmy. You can throw a tire weight any time, so the occurrence after the U-joint work may just be a coincidence. Now if the vibration is coming through the body and weakens or disappears when you let the car coast with the clutch depressed, then I would say the U joint work is suspect. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of im sloane Sent: December 11, 2007 5:33 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph Hi guys, I had a trusted local LBC mechanic replace a few U-joints, along with brake work. Now truth be told my Six is a pretty poor handling and rattley ride but of course I love it. Anyway, I seem to have a pretty bad shimmy at about 50. Not always there, but pretty bad when it is. I'm way over due for a tire balance, but could he have put something back together back there that is causing the shakes? Sloane :) '69-Six _________________________________________________________________ From vance.navarrette at intel.com Tue Dec 11 09:36:44 2007 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 08:36:44 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: RML: STOP CALLING ME INFANTILE! Waaaaaaaaaa! Mommy! Make him stop! Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: December 11, 2007 8:17 AM To: im sloane Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph Hi, As far as your mechanic, we hope he/she was kidding. Any mechanic worth thier salt will love a client with an old car. It's like taking candy from a baby. rml From mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 11 10:43:31 2007 From: mrdr3600 at sbcglobal.net (Martin Romagni) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 09:43:31 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Steering Column Wobble (was non-cancelling turn signal) Message-ID: <885850.89660.qm@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Hello everyone - A couple days back, Lou sent this link http://hotantiqueauto.googlepages.com/partscatalog to Francois web page and mentioned the Delrin steering sleeve that fixes the bushing problem. Has anyone on the list used the sleeve? If so, what were your results? thanks in advance, Marty Romagni 1974 TR6 Painesville, OH From sumton at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 11 10:50:20 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 11:50:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph References: Message-ID: <000f01c83c1e$6e3399a0$b002000a@garage.local> just to add my 2c worth, i had a problem with vibration due to u joints being out. this likely caused the prop shaft to get out of balance, because after new u joints i still had some vibration, noticably when decelerating from highway speeds. replacing the prop shaft fixed that. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Tue Dec 11 10:54:10 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 12:54:10 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Steering Column Wobble (was non-cancelling turn signal) In-Reply-To: <885850.89660.qm@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <885850.89660.qm@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <000001c83c1e$d93abd50$210110ac@bobspc> Marty, You can also check with Art Lipp at TRParts.com. He'll etiher rebuild your column with his Delrin bushings (http://www.trparts.com/newitems/column.html) or sell you the bushing kit for $25. I have it and will be installing it this winter. Per his instructions there's no need to remove the column to install the bushings. You don't even have to remove the old bushings. His email is LIPP04 at yahoo.com Just another option. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Martin Romagni Sent: Tuesday, December 11, 2007 12:44 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Steering Column Wobble (was non-cancelling turn signal) Hello everyone - A couple days back, Lou sent this link http://hotantiqueauto.googlepages.com/partscatalog to Francois web page and mentioned the Delrin steering sleeve that fixes the bushing problem. Has anyone on the list used the sleeve? If so, what were your results? thanks in advance, Marty Romagni 1974 TR6 Painesville, OH 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.0/1180 - Release Date: 12/10/2007 2:51 PM From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Dec 11 11:14:21 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:14:21 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph Message-ID: Vance et al, Pushing the clutch doesn't seem to make it go away. A quick lunch-time balance/rotation has seemed to help a bit. I need to have the front-end gone thru next year. As I've said before, it's very sloppy. Also, Oliver mentioned his U-joints and prop shaft. My U's were pretty bad for quite a while. (What is that clunking back there??) I just wondered if everyone would chime in with something like 'Oh yea, he put the thingey in backwards.' or something obvious like that. Thanks for all the responses. Hitting record highs in NC today. Top down at 75 degrees in December is good for the soul. You guys in the ice stay safe and warm. Sloane :)'69-Six> Now if the vibration is coming through the body and weakens or> disappears when you let the car coast with the clutch depressed, then I> would say the U joint work is suspect.> > Vance> _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Dec 11 11:31:07 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 18:31:07 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Steering Column Wobble (was non-cancelling turn signal) In-Reply-To: <885850.89660.qm@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> References: <885850.89660.qm@web83602.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <1786882581-1197397963-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1105820189-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Marty, If no one here has used it, you might want to post on 6PACK for feedback, I know a few people there used it with good results. Looks pretty painless as all you have to do is remove the steering wheel. Lou -----Original Message----- From: Martin Romagni Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 09:43:31 To:6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Steering Column Wobble (was non-cancelling turn signal) Hello everyone - A couple days back, Lou sent this link http://hotantiqueauto.googlepages.com/partscatalog to Francois web page and mentioned the Delrin steering sleeve that fixes the bushing problem. Has anyone on the list used the sleeve? If so, what were your results? thanks in advance, Marty Romagni 1974 TR6 Painesville, OH _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From rnorris1 at swbell.net Tue Dec 11 14:22:40 2007 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 15:22:40 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph Message-ID: <475EFFA0.9050603@swbell.net> This list is a great deal like an encounter group except I feel no better learning that someone else is suffering the same problem as I! I am hoping my drive shaft will return from being balanced this week and that will be the end of my 6's vibration(s) which showed up after u-joint replacement. Last week, the mechanic found a exhaust pipe hanger secured to the body without the typical rubber insulator/isolator causing a pretty nasty vibration beginning at 50mph. Correcting that left a vibration that is heard more than felt but not until nearing 70mph. The hope is that balancing the shaft will solve that; the fear is that it won't and a bearing may be at issue. We'll see, hopefully later this week! This may be my only Christmas present!! Rick Norris From trguy at cfl.rr.com Tue Dec 11 18:18:18 2007 From: trguy at cfl.rr.com (James Henningsen) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 20:18:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Wheel Offset Message-ID: <20071212011817.NNQE2942.cdptpa-omta03.mail.rr.com@TRGUY> Listers: I am looking at a set of aluminum wheels and wondered what is the best offset for a 16x7 wheel. They come +04. Anyone have experience with this and a good recommendation on offset for the TR6? Many thanks! Notice how good I have been this year by not mentioning the weather in Florida. Jim Henningsen 75 TR6 CF35914U Maitland, FL From jmitch at snet.net Tue Dec 11 19:12:15 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 21:12:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph In-Reply-To: <475EFFA0.9050603@swbell.net> References: <475EFFA0.9050603@swbell.net> Message-ID: <475F437F.5080204@snet.net> I've always wondered about the exhaust hanger that connects to the transmission on overdrive cars. It's just a metal hangar with no rubber isolation and it's bolted to the rear of the overdrive. Has anyone tried anything to isolate the exhaust from metal on metal contact with the transmission? I'm wondering if it would cut some of the vibration felt at the shifter. John Mitchell 76TR6 Rick Norris wrote: > This list is a great deal like an encounter group except I feel no > better learning that someone else is suffering the same problem as I! > > I am hoping my drive shaft will return from being balanced this week and > that will be the end of my 6's vibration(s) which showed up after > u-joint replacement. Last week, the mechanic found a exhaust pipe hanger > secured to the body without the typical rubber insulator/isolator > causing a pretty nasty vibration beginning at 50mph. Correcting that > left a vibration that is heard more than felt but not until nearing > 70mph. The hope is that balancing the shaft will solve that; the fear is > that it won't and a bearing may be at issue. We'll see, hopefully later > this week! This may be my only Christmas present!! > > Rick Norris From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 12 12:10:23 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:10:23 -0000 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) Message-ID: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> As it grew dark tonight, I found myself travelling home through a quiet village close to Birmingham in the UK. Waiting at the somewhat long red light, I noticed the building alongside was a fine example of old English house-building with an open timber frame and ancient bricks as an infill to the whole. I noted with interest that along the eaves of the roof, the owners had mounted a number of small imitation Christmas trees in wall brackets that were angled outwards at about 45 deg. Moreover, each tree was adorned with very small white lights that oddly looked a little dim. The traffic lights went from red to green and back to red as the queue of cars moved slowly forwards and as I halted for the second time, I was directly outside the imposing oak front door. Peering up at the house to double-check if the Christmas Tree lights really were as dim as they appeared, my attention was drawn to a circular blue plaque above the door on which was written in small white letters: "Birthplace of Joseph Lucas. Automotive and Marine Lighting Engineer" Honest! Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Dec 12 12:14:30 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 19:14:30 +0000 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF1C58A3A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Now that is absolutely priceless and should be added to the collection of Lucas lore like why the English drink warm beer etc. Thanks John. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Macartney Sent: Wednesday, December 12, 2007 2:10 PM To: spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-Pack Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) As it grew dark tonight, I found myself travelling home through a quiet village close to Birmingham in the UK. Waiting at the somewhat long red light, I noticed the building alongside was a fine example of old English house-building with an open timber frame and ancient bricks as an infill to the whole. I noted with interest that along the eaves of the roof, the owners had mounted a number of small imitation Christmas trees in wall brackets that were angled outwards at about 45 deg. Moreover, each tree was adorned with very small white lights that oddly looked a little dim. The traffic lights went from red to green and back to red as the queue of cars moved slowly forwards and as I halted for the second time, I was directly outside the imposing oak front door. Peering up at the house to double-check if the Christmas Tree lights really were as dim as they appeared, my attention was drawn to a circular blue plaque above the door on which was written in small white letters: "Birthplace of Joseph Lucas. Automotive and Marine Lighting Engineer" Honest! Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation _______________________________________________ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 12 14:54:55 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 21:54:55 -0000 Subject: [6pack] TRIUMPH TRANS-AMERICAN Charity Drive 2009 EXCITING NEWS!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Message-ID: <048701c83d09$a26c36a0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Hey, Everyone Have we got something to talk about! The Macartney Charitable Trust will soon be assuming ownership of a most generously donated and professionally restored Triumph Spitfire. There'll be lots more on that in due course. To learn a bit more, go to the website, click on the "Work's Cars" tab and bring yourself up to date. For those who haven't seen TTACD 2009 yet, go have a look-see too! Sign up to be kept up-to-date about developments almost as they occur - and the 'Something to make you smile' page might do just that. Cheers, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Wed Dec 12 20:03:47 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 22:03:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] eBay Madness, part duex Message-ID: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Having seen the eBay madness messages, I got to thinking ... what do I have that is so rare, so precious, so unique that no one would mind bidding a fortune for it ... needless to say, I came up empty handed. Then I recalled that in the back of the garage, buried with all my other treasures were some parts that were in the boot of the TR6 when I bought it. Yes ... there it was, just the kind of thing that would make some salivate for ... a genuine Unipart Oil Filter, still in its rather battered box, but the real McCoy nevertheless. It just shouted out to me ... here I am, use me to make your fortune ... and there it was, carefully hand made by English artisans slaving over the hot fires of industry in Birmingham and Coventry, crafted to an exquisite jewel like perfection of folded pleats of non-bleached, high quality velour of the quality only used by the Queen to write on, and all assembled in a lightweight, scintillating aluminium capped splendor. I'm hoping to raise somewhere between one and two grand for this unique trophy class item, and I buy anyone on the list a beer when Jonmac makes it to Detroit using my windfall. Given how much I expect to make, I thought largess was needed, so half the money will go to the American Cancer Society (joking apart, a cause very near to my heart). If you wish, you can add to the mirth by asking wonderfully strange questions that might be seen in a Sotheby's auction ... and I'll post all the replies to the eBay page. Just is case you're interested, the item number is 190183325605 ... And, if this bloody thing does attract a single bid, it will only prove that there are some really strange people out there with much more money than sense! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Dec 11 13:30:54 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 11 Dec 2007 12:30:54 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph In-Reply-To: im sloane 's message of Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:32:47 +0000 Message-ID: <9787-475EF37F-1663@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> im----If you're looking for a quick, cheap fix. check to see if the (front) wheel bearings were left loose. Some mechanics don't get them as snug as they should be. When something's out of balance, the wobble is usually predictable at certain speeds. The on-again, off-again leads me to believe it's something that the driver can influence, like steering position. It's possible that these wheel bearings weren't disturbed when doing the brake job, but worth a look, anyhow. Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: im_sloane at hotmail.com(im sloane) Hi guys, I had a trusted local LBC mechanic replace a few U-joints, along with brake work. Now truth be told my Six is a pretty poor handling and rattley ride but of course I love it. Anyway, I seem to have a pretty bad shimmy at about 50. Not always there, but pretty bad when it is. I'm way over due for a tire balance, but could he have put something back together back there that is causing the shakes? Sloane :) '69-Six ______________________________________ From apackard68 at comcast.net Thu Dec 13 00:36:12 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 23:36:12 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] soda blasting and current status Message-ID: <200712130736.lBD7aCjN003308@upsa-web121.ofoto.com> Soda blasting at my home was a messy and incomplete experience. See the pictures for the progress made. I had them get the bottom of the car but the soda is such a mild abrasive, any treated rust remained behind. On the positive side, all of the undercoating came off the wheel wells leaving behind a nice, still anodized finish. You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.cbbg5s87&x=0&y=x4tm7n If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.cbbg5s87&x=0&y=x4tm7n From apackard68 at comcast.net Thu Dec 13 00:49:40 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 12 Dec 2007 23:49:40 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Soda blasting and next steps Message-ID: <20071213075546.04681187A23@autox.team.net> I shared kodakgallery.com pix with the list for progress on the soda blasting. It's an interesting process, but you need a big open field to do it in. The medium is very mild, leaving behind the anodized finish of the steel, but it's not able to get rid of rust that ever had any sort of treatment in the past. We ran out of daylight and I won't be having them come back to my home. Instead, I've lined up two options to complete the stripping of the car and getting it in primer. Please give me your opinions. Option 1. Take it to a media blaster about an hour away for relatively low cost. Pick it up the next day and have a local body man prime the car in DP4 prior to any body work beginning. Option 2. Take it to a more local powder coating facility to have the body and all panels stripped with media, then a powder coat epoxy primer baked on. Cost, taking the driving hassle into consideration, is about equal between the two. My body guy has great experience with the DP4 and says all the best resto shop use it. I don't know anything about the epoxy powder coat primer, but I'll be getting some more info from the powder coater. Any opinions and experiences to share are welcome. Andy CD6746L HVDA From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Dec 13 06:12:40 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:12:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] eBay Madness, part duex Message-ID: Terry, That's cool! You should consider posting some pictures of it out of the box. You might also add some installation instructions in your description. :) Sloane :) 69-Six, with original filter.>> And, if this bloody thing does attract a single bid, it will only prove that> there are some really strange people out there with much more money than> sense!> > **************************************> Tony Gordon> 72 TR6> **************************************> _______________________________________________> _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 From im_sloane at hotmail.com Thu Dec 13 06:17:26 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:17:26 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Shimmy at 50mph In-Reply-To: <9787-475EF37F-1663@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> References: im sloane 's message of Tue, 11 Dec 2007 13:32:47 +0000 <9787-475EF37F-1663@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Hi Dick, Thanks for your thoughts. The fronts were not pulled, as only the rears were done this time. Fronts were OK. My whole front end will get a once-over maybe next year. From all the comments, I've realized that this does appear to be a 'body shake' not really coming from the front/steering wheel. I'm Sloane :) 69-Six> im----If you're looking for a quick, cheap fix. check to see if the> (front) wheel bearings were left loose. Some mechanics don't get them as> snug as they should be. When something's out of balance, the wobble is> usually predictable at certain speeds. The on-again, off-again leads me> to believe it's something that the driver can influence, like steering> position. It's possible that these wheel bearings weren't disturbed when> doing the brake job, but worth a look, anyhow.> > Dick> _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From whitetr6 at gmail.com Thu Dec 13 11:26:18 2007 From: whitetr6 at gmail.com (Mark) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:26:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] eBay Madness, part duex In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <1f81f7e00712131026s205ed326i9e6c260322601e4@mail.gmail.com> Hilarious description and Q&A. I hope whoever buys the thing will re-ebay it so it lives on like a white elephant present :-) Now to see what treasures are lurking in my closet. Hey, what about that 25-year old throwout bearing that shreiks like a banshee. hmmmm Mark If you stay in Beverly Hills too long you become a Mercedes. -Robert Redford On Dec 13, 2007 8:12 AM, im sloane wrote: > Terry, > That's cool! You should consider posting some pictures of it out of the > box. > You might also add some installation instructions in your description. :) > > Sloane :) > 69-Six, with original filter.>> And, if this bloody thing does attract a > single bid, it will only prove that> there are some really strange people > out > there with much more money than> sense!> > > **************************************> Tony Gordon> 72 TR6> > **************************************> > _______________________________________________> > _________________________________________________________________ > Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. > > http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as whitetr6 at gmail.com > -- Mark From bratt at sasktel.net Thu Dec 13 12:12:39 2007 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 13:12:39 -0600 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) References: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF1C58A3A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <000b01c83dbc$20ff08f0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> >Lucas lore like why the English drink warm beer etc. I have only visited Britain once, but never had a "warm beer". Just a couple of facts about British beer temperatures: First, the myth that the British serve their beer at "room temperature" is false. Yet there is an exception: Some of the fuller flavoured beers, dark ales and stouts are actually preferred to be served at or near room temperature. This is done so you can taste them to their fullest. The British standard temperature for serving beer in most British pubs is between 50 and 55 degrees F. and is referred to as "cellar temperature". All British beers have various flavours, and differing aromas which become lost at lower temperatures. Historically, British beers were taken as a meal, as a "workman's lunch", so beer is still, to some degree, looked upon as a food. Chilling to "ice cold" retards the release of aromas, and hides the taste. Now why would you do that? Ed Bratt Regina Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" From whitetr6 at gmail.com Thu Dec 13 12:32:46 2007 From: whitetr6 at gmail.com (Mark) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 14:32:46 -0500 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <1f81f7e00712131132q492ecd6boc735e25baebb9ff1@mail.gmail.com> Cool story Jonmac! Thanks for sharing... Mark On Dec 12, 2007 2:10 PM, John Macartney wrote: > As it grew dark tonight, I found myself travelling home through a quiet > village close to Birmingham > in the UK. > Waiting at the somewhat long red light, I noticed the building alongside > was a fine example of old > English house-building with an open timber frame and ancient bricks as an > infill to the whole. I > noted with interest that along the eaves of the roof, the owners had > mounted a number of small > imitation Christmas trees in wall brackets that were angled outwards at > about 45 deg. Moreover, each > tree was adorned with very small white lights that oddly looked a little > dim. > The traffic lights went from red to green and back to red as the queue of > cars moved slowly forwards > and as I halted for the second time, I was directly outside the imposing > oak front door. Peering up > at the house to double-check if the Christmas Tree lights really were as > dim as they appeared, my > attention was drawn to a circular blue plaque above the door on which was > written in small white > letters: > > "Birthplace of Joseph Lucas. Automotive and Marine Lighting Engineer" > > Honest! > > Jonmac > > Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 > www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk > > An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as whitetr6 at gmail.com > -- Mark From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Dec 13 12:28:39 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:28:39 +0000 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <000b01c83dbc$20ff08f0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> References: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF1C58A3A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <000b01c83dbc$20ff08f0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF3564442@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> >Chilling to "ice cold" retards the release of aromas, and hides the taste. >Now why would you do that? Ed, you would do that if your beer was made with fermented cereals like rice and cornflakes and where the list of preservatives is longer than the list of the required ingredients for beer (water, malted barley or malted wheat, hops and yeast). eg most of the popular American beers from Miller, Bud, Coors etc) have to be chilled to make them palatable. Luckily today there is excellent beer available in the US from many microbreweries but Americans have been pre-programmed to chill the heck out of beer and by comparison English beer seems warm although I have observed that over the years there is a lot more chilled lager consumed in the UK than I remember from my misspent youth. As you rightly point out, English beer, particularly the bitters, pale ales and IPA's are typically consumed at around 55 degrees F with the stronger beers like barley wines usually at room temp. Yum. Stan (Former Englishman and part time beer snob) -----Original Message----- From: Ed Bratt [mailto:bratt at sasktel.net] Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 2:13 PM To: Foster, Stan; John Macartney; spitfires at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] A living testament :) >Lucas lore like why the English drink warm beer etc. I have only visited Britain once, but never had a "warm beer". Just a couple of facts about British beer temperatures: First, the myth that the British serve their beer at "room temperature" is false. Yet there is an exception: Some of the fuller flavoured beers, dark ales and stouts are actually preferred to be served at or near room temperature. This is done so you can taste them to their fullest. The British standard temperature for serving beer in most British pubs is between 50 and 55 degrees F. and is referred to as "cellar temperature". All British beers have various flavours, and differing aromas which become lost at lower temperatures. Historically, British beers were taken as a meal, as a "workman's lunch", so beer is still, to some degree, looked upon as a food. Chilling to "ice cold" retards the release of aromas, and hides the taste. Now why would you do that? Ed Bratt Regina Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 15:30:12 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 15:30:12 -0700 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF3564442@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <044c01c83cf2$a5e37a80$0201a8c0@Bevan> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF1C58A3A@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <000b01c83dbc$20ff08f0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF3564442@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <4761B274.2030207@tscusa.org> Foster, Stan wrote: >> Chilling to "ice cold" retards the release of aromas, and hides the taste. >> Now why would you do that? >> > > Ed, you would do that if your beer was made with fermented cereals like rice > and cornflakes and where the list of preservatives is longer than the list of > the required ingredients for beer (water, malted barley or malted wheat, hops > and yeast). eg most of the popular American beers from Miller, Bud, Coors etc) > have to be chilled to make them palatable. > > > > Luckily today there is excellent beer available in the US from many > microbreweries but Americans have been pre-programmed to chill the heck out of > beer and by comparison English beer seems warm although I have observed that > over the years there is a lot more chilled lager consumed in the UK than I > remember from my misspent youth. > > As you rightly point out, English beer, particularly the bitters, pale ales > and IPA's are typically consumed at around 55 degrees F with the stronger > beers like barley wines usually at room temp. > > Yum. > > Stan (Former Englishman and part time beer snob) > "I brew, therefore ... I am" "Worts this all about??" Are you guys ever off base on this. Chilling beer is for one primary reason - preservation. When beer gets warm it increases oxidation which affects flavor and may allow it to spoil quickly, specially when exposed to oxygen. Most chilled beers have an shelf life of 90 days which is what the producer believes is the best time to consume and retain the full (and very marginal range) flavors. Such beers are typically known as Bohemian (or Plzner) beers fermented with lagering yeasts so they can ferment cold, extending the quality and life of flavors in the ingredients. These beers are seldom "aged" more than a few months before being consumed. Lager beers use lagering yeast (bottom zymosis) which prefer to do their work in cooler areas over a longer period of time and will in fact stay alive to almost freezing, while ale yeasts (top zymosis) prefer a bit warmer temperature to work properly and will die off in very cold or hot temperatures, producing very bad flavors in the beer. -- Glenn A. Merrell Hobby Zymergist & Brewer of quality Ales Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Dec 13 15:36:56 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 17:36:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings Message-ID: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> Hey guys..... Our own Glenn Merrell has made Hemmings' Weekly Email and their web site. Check it out http://tinyurl.com/2m94x8 Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1182 - Release Date: 12/12/2007 11:29 AM From rclark at robertsonclark.com Thu Dec 13 16:09:23 2007 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 15:09:23 -0800 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <4761B274.2030207@tscusa.org> Message-ID: I have a chocolate stout that I brewed in 1999. Not my best homebrew effort, it looks like the oil I drained from the TR6 after the float valve stuck. Instead of throwing it out, I just left it sit in the crawlspace under my house. Every so often I pull out a bottle and try it. It actually seems to be improving. I have even served it to friends and they compliment it as well. Bob Clark '69 TR6 "I brew, therefore ... I am" "Worts this all about??" Are you guys ever off base on this. Chilling beer is for one primary reason - preservation. When beer gets warm it increases oxidation which affects flavor and may allow it to spoil quickly, specially when exposed to oxygen. Most chilled beers have an shelf life of 90 days which is what the producer believes is the best time to consume and retain the full (and very marginal range) flavors. Such beers are typically known as Bohemian (or Plzner) beers fermented with lagering yeasts so they can ferment cold, extending the quality and life of flavors in the ingredients. These beers are seldom "aged" more than a few months before being consumed. Lager beers use lagering yeast (bottom zymosis) which prefer to do their work in cooler areas over a longer period of time and will in fact stay alive to almost freezing, while ale yeasts (top zymosis) prefer a bit warmer temperature to work properly and will die off in very cold or hot temperatures, producing very bad flavors in the beer. -- Glenn A. Merrell Hobby Zymergist & Brewer of quality Ales Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! _______________________________________________ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Thu Dec 13 16:09:22 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 23:09:22 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings References: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <072f01c83ddd$32f25c30$0201a8c0@Bevan> 'Sright, Bob! And if you keep your eyes peeled to Hemmings (and a few other publications of that ilk) you'll see a lot more about Glenn (and maybe in the coming months. By the way for those who don't yet know, the Macartney Charitable Trust this week acquired a 1978 UK spec 1500 Spitfire as a 'no strings attached' donation with which to raise funds. This car went through a US$50,000+ professional rebuild less than five years ago, is a national concours winner in the UK - and, like the Stag. we're going to raffle it. The Final Draw will be at the end of the Charity Drive at Triumphest/VTR National whereby the Stag will go to a lucky US/Canada winner and the Spitty will go to someone in the UK. Why not sign up to the 'Keep Informed' email facility on www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk ? It's being added to almost daily. Cheers, Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 10:36 PM Subject: [6pack] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings > Hey guys..... Our own Glenn Merrell has made Hemmings' Weekly Email and > their web site. Check it out http://tinyurl.com/2m94x8 > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1182 - Release Date: 12/12/2007 > 11:29 AM > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Dec 13 16:22:04 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:22:04 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] eBay Madness, part duex References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <47612657.9090609@earthlink.net> Message-ID: <00a401c83dde$f8f048b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> My entire family is now convinced the that the entire 6-Pack and TR Lists are populated by folks as whacky as me ... and have joined in the fun. My son added the Queen and Prince Charles photos. The messages I have got off the list have been hilarious (well, to me anyway). The Snow Cat, Nigerian business man and the Faberge questions are priceless! Have a look at the ongoing saga on eBay item # 190183325605 ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: Ted To: Joe Burlein Cc: Tony Gordon ; TR list ; 6pack Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 2:32 PM Subject: Re: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex That's a pretty nice French translation, if that's babblefish or another online translation engine, it's not bad at all ... C'est viritable un bijou de multinational dans la couronne de l'iquipement original partie... la bonte a igalement la ligende passionnante "filtre d'huile". Je sais que ceci excitera mes acheteurs internationaux. On Dec 13, 2007 7:32 AM, Joe Burlein wrote: Tony, Nice write up! Question sent! ;-) Joe Tony Gordon wrote: > Having seen the eBay madness messages, I got to thinking ... what do I have > that is so rare, so precious, so unique that no one would mind bidding a > fortune for it ... needless to say, I came up empty handed. Then I recalled > that in the back of the garage, buried with all my other treasures were some > parts that were in the boot of the TR6 when I bought it. > > Yes ... there it was, just the kind of thing that would make some salivate for > ... a genuine Unipart Oil Filter, still in its rather battered box, but the > real McCoy nevertheless. It just shouted out to me ... here I am, use me to > make your fortune ... and there it was, carefully hand made by English > artisans slaving over the hot fires of industry in Birmingham and Coventry, > crafted to an exquisite jewel like perfection of folded pleats of > non-bleached, high quality velour of the quality only used by the Queen to > write on, and all assembled in a lightweight, scintillating aluminium capped > splendor. > > I'm hoping to raise somewhere between one and two grand for this unique trophy > class item, and I buy anyone on the list a beer when Jonmac makes it to > Detroit using my windfall. Given how much I expect to make, I thought largess > was needed, so half the money will go to the American Cancer Society (joking > apart, a cause very near to my heart). > > If you wish, you can add to the mirth by asking wonderfully strange questions > that might be seen in a Sotheby's auction ... and I'll post all the replies to > the eBay page. Just is case you're interested, the item number is > 190183325605 ... From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 16:47:20 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 16:47:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Glenn Merrell & Hemmings In-Reply-To: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <001e01c83dd8$ac534df0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <4761C488.60700@tscusa.org> Bob Danielson wrote: > Hey guys..... Our own Glenn Merrell has made Hemmings' Weekly Email and > their web site. Check it out http://tinyurl.com/2m94x8 > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > Yeow!! Thanks for that note Bob! We'll take publicity for this great charitable cause any way we can get it! Lets see, plugs for - Triumph Trans-AmeriCan 2009 http://www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk; - the affliction of Post Traumatic Stress Disorder; - Triumphest 2009 in San Luis Obispo California; - The Vintage Triumph Register and the National Convention 2009 coinciding with Triumphest, and ... - The Triumph Stag - comfort- styling- trunk(boot) space! - clubs volunteering to help; - We even got a plug (photo courtesy of) for triumphstag.net web site!! So how many people read the Hemmings eWeekly? Don't subscribe? have a look here http://www.hemmings.com/account/?op=add_hmnupdate_email Thank you David LaChance for the publicity!! Maybe when the charity Drive comes near your neck of the woods, you will drive/ride along with us for a while! Now all we need is for say, Road and Track, Car and Driver, Classic MotorSports to do some articles in support of this drive! Anyone have contacts there or maybe some celebrities? (Tim Suddard, are you listening?) All it takes is a phone call or an email to help. Thanks! -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Dec 13 17:01:13 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:01:13 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] eBay Madness, part duex References: <001501c83d34$c7e163d0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71><00a401c83dde$f8f048b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <200712131931.43921.yellowtr@adelphia.net> Message-ID: <00f501c83de4$71a844b0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Thanks Bob, if this sells then all of us are doomed since it will be clear that Darwinian rules don't apply! And we've got about 6" of snow currently and 25degF ... makes the trips in the garage fairly brief! ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Labuz" To: Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 7:31 PM Subject: Re: [TR] eBay Madness, part duex > On Thursday 13 December 2007 06:22 pm, Tony Gordon wrote: >> My entire family is now convinced the that the entire 6-Pack and TR Lists >> are populated by folks as whacky as me ... and have joined in the fun. >> My >> son added the Queen and Prince Charles photos. >> >> The messages I have got off the list have been hilarious (well, to me >> anyway). The Snow Cat, Nigerian business man and the Faberge questions >> are >> priceless! Have a look at the ongoing saga on eBay item # 190183325605 >> >> ************************************** >> Tony Gordon >> 72 TR6 > Tony, > > If it wasnt about 20 outside I would also venure out to the parts garage > to > see if I could find that "part" that would have all those ebayers > drooling. > > Just got in from a snow blow and as usual the blower would push it one way > and > the wind (always changing) would blow it back in my face! > > Oh well, down to cellar to work on a TR4 bonnet! > > Good luck with your auction. > > Bob From richards at hollywoodcenter.com Thu Dec 13 17:28:24 2007 From: richards at hollywoodcenter.com (Richard Schnyder) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 16:28:24 -0800 Subject: [6pack] British Car Day Message-ID: <00ba01c83de8$3dac05d0$2e00a8c0@internal> If you know about Cars and Coffee, every Saturday, Irvine Calif. You might know we had a British Car Day there last Saturday. About 50 British Cars showed up, including at DB4GT ASTON MARTIN ZAGATO, which was driven there over 60 miles. The next British Car Day at Cars and Coffee will be Saturday, May 10, 2008. It will also be Triumph Day, as the second Saturday of each month always is at Cars and Coffee. The Southern California Triumph Owners Association members show up with their TR's. This is a very casual affair. NOT COMMERCIAL. NO Awards, just good people with great cars. Take at look at : http://carsandcoffee.info/forum/ Thank you Richard 1974 TR6 if you need more information: richards at hollywoodcenter.com From bratt at sasktel.net Thu Dec 13 17:45:03 2007 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:45:03 -0600 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) References: Message-ID: <00b601c83dea$90bb3a50$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Bob: My brother brewed a batch of English Ale, and stacked the filled cases in a basement closet. One night a couple of bottles exploded. It was loud enough to wake everyone. He took the full bottles up stairs and threw them all out the back door, into the snowbanks. When spring came, full bottles of Ale began appearing as the snow thawed. The surprise was that after it's winter aging the beer was quite good. None of it broke from freezing in spite of the occasional -40 temperatures. Ed Ed ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert N. Clark" To: Cc: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 5:09 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] A living testament :) >I have a chocolate stout that I brewed in 1999. Not my best homebrew > effort, it looks like the oil I drained from the TR6 after the float > valve stuck. Instead of throwing it out, I just left it sit in the > crawlspace under my house. Every so often I pull out a bottle and try > it. It actually seems to be improving. I have even served it to > friends and they compliment it as well. > > > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 > > > "I brew, therefore ... I am" > > "Worts this all about??" Are you guys ever off base on this. Chilling > beer is for one primary reason - preservation. When beer gets warm it > increases oxidation which affects flavor and may allow it to spoil > quickly, specially when exposed to oxygen. Most chilled beers have an > shelf life of 90 days which is what the producer believes is the best > time to consume and retain the full (and very marginal range) flavors. > Such beers are typically known as Bohemian (or Plzner) beers fermented > with lagering yeasts so they can ferment cold, extending the quality and > > life of flavors in the ingredients. These beers are seldom "aged" more > than a few months before being consumed. > Lager beers use lagering yeast (bottom zymosis) which prefer to do their > > work in cooler areas over a longer period of time and will in fact stay > alive to almost freezing, while ale yeasts (top zymosis) prefer a bit > warmer temperature to work properly and will die off in very cold or hot > > temperatures, producing very bad flavors in the beer. > > -- > Glenn A. Merrell > Hobby Zymergist & Brewer of quality Ales > Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) > The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, > dead bugs on the windshield! > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as bratt at sasktel.net > > > -- > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG Free Edition. > Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.1/1183 - Release Date: > 12/13/2007 9:15 AM From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Dec 13 18:00:30 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:00:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Wealthy or Not References: <003c01c83dea$b89456b0$340f7247@fred8kwiskhcfu> Message-ID: <013101c83dec$bd2cb8a0$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Hey Fred, let me get my couple of grand first for my pristine oil filter ... I don't need the competition just yet (and I'll give you half of what the guy in Africa is offering if you hold off for a week! ;) ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "FRED E THOMAS" To: "triumphs" Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 7:46 PM Subject: [TR] Wealthy or Not > Well now folks if I understand a Lucas battery is worth over $1000.00, > that > could very possibly mean I might be a wealthy man, I wonder how much > original > T/R 2/3 parts could be worth such as original ash trays still in the > factory > box, or water pump rebuild kits in =metal Boxes"=, how about a "Triumph" 9 > volt portable radio, or maybe a original Smith's rear view clock/mirrow, > wow, > the list can go on and on, I just think I'll not count my $$$$, possibly > becasue they are not a "Lucas Battery". :) :) :) "FT" > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 18:06:48 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 18:06:48 -0700 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> Robert N. Clark wrote: > I have a chocolate stout that I brewed in 1999. Not my best homebrew > effort, it looks like the oil I drained from the TR6 after the float > valve stuck. Instead of throwing it out, I just left it sit in the > crawlspace under my house. Every so often I pull out a bottle and try > it. It actually seems to be improving. I have even served it to > friends and they compliment it as well. > > > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 > > > "I brew, therefore ... I am" > > "Worts this all about??" Bob, sounds yummy. A friend of mine keeps promising me a taste of a recipe called "Goat Scrotum Stout", but every time he and his sons make a batch, it is gone as soon as they pop the first cap. How about we start a "Brewers Circle" at some of the shows, pass around some of our prize brews? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From triumph at 2simpleusa.com Thu Dec 13 18:19:09 2007 From: triumph at 2simpleusa.com (Tony Gordon) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:19:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> What an excellent idea. I get back to the UK twice a year, and love sampling all the real ales. Michigan is getting there, but the hand drawn live (not pasteurized) ales are something to behold. Few brewpubs have got into handdrawn ales in the US just yet, but the beer is almost as good as I get back home, says he who visited the Mountain Town brewpub in Mount Pleasant, MI, today and enjoyed a pint of really good American IPA ... not a style that you find in the UK (Youngs Specials maybe, but otherwise UK beers tend to be less hoppy than US beers). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** ----- Original Message ----- From: "Glenn A. Merrell" To: "Robert N. Clark" Cc: "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 8:06 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] A living testament :) > Robert N. Clark wrote: >> I have a chocolate stout that I brewed in 1999. Not my best homebrew >> effort, it looks like the oil I drained from the TR6 after the float >> valve stuck. Instead of throwing it out, I just left it sit in the >> crawlspace under my house. Every so often I pull out a bottle and try >> it. It actually seems to be improving. I have even served it to >> friends and they compliment it as well. >> >> >> Bob Clark >> '69 TR6 >> >> >> "I brew, therefore ... I am" >> >> "Worts this all about??" > > Bob, sounds yummy. A friend of mine keeps promising me a taste of a > recipe called "Goat Scrotum Stout", but every time he and his sons make > a batch, it is gone as soon as they pop the first cap. > > How about we start a "Brewers Circle" at some of the shows, pass around > some of our prize brews? From rclark at robertsonclark.com Thu Dec 13 18:30:15 2007 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 17:30:15 -0800 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> Message-ID: Lets bring this back in the realm of Triumphs. We all meet somewhere and bring our beers. We'd have to stay awhile for the effects to wear off. Bob Clark '69 TR6 -----Original Message----- From: Glenn A. Merrell [mailto:StagByTriumph at tscusa.org] Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 5:07 PM To: Robert N. Clark Cc: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] A living testament :) Robert N. Clark wrote: > I have a chocolate stout that I brewed in 1999. Not my best homebrew > effort, it looks like the oil I drained from the TR6 after the float > valve stuck. Instead of throwing it out, I just left it sit in the > crawlspace under my house. Every so often I pull out a bottle and try > it. It actually seems to be improving. I have even served it to > friends and they compliment it as well. > > > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 > > > "I brew, therefore ... I am" > > "Worts this all about??" Bob, sounds yummy. A friend of mine keeps promising me a taste of a recipe called "Goat Scrotum Stout", but every time he and his sons make a batch, it is gone as soon as they pop the first cap. How about we start a "Brewers Circle" at some of the shows, pass around some of our prize brews? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From trmarty at hotmail.com Thu Dec 13 18:32:43 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:32:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Home brews In-Reply-To: <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: I second the motion. The Mini Cooper group has a "BREW SWAP" at the Mini's on the Dragon event every year. It would be great to do something along these lines at the VTR convention each year. Be it a official event or just a bunch of us home brew types gathering in the hotel parking lot with some lawn chairs swapping brews and lies about our cars:). Marty > > How about we start a "Brewers Circle" at some of the shows, pass around > > some of our prize brews? > _______________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From lfm614 at aol.com Thu Dec 13 18:40:28 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 01:40:28 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Home brews In-Reply-To: References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <318543103-1197596531-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1000930648-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Well, just an idea......6PACK TRials will be in Townsend TN next year a few miles from the Dragon. Maybe with some planning........ Lou -----Original Message----- From: marty sukey Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:32:43 To:Tony Gordon , , 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [6pack] Home brews I second the motion. The Mini Cooper group has a "BREW SWAP" at the Mini's on the Dragon event every year. It would be great to do something along these lines at the VTR convention each year. Be it a official event or just a bunch of us home brew types gathering in the hotel parking lot with some lawn chairs swapping brews and lies about our cars:). Marty > > How about we start a "Brewers Circle" at some of the shows, pass around > > some of our prize brews? > _______________________________________________ _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Dec 13 18:33:49 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 01:33:49 +0000 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AF35644C9@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Tony, English beer varies extremely by region and by brewer. The next time you are in the UK track down some Greene King Abbot ale. This is one glorious hoppy beer. You don't even have to drink it, just put a towel over your head and breathe deeply.. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Tony Gordon Sent: Thursday, December 13, 2007 8:19 PM To: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org; 6pack Subject: Re: [6pack] A living testament :) What an excellent idea. I get back to the UK twice a year, and love sampling all the real ales. Michigan is getting there, but the hand drawn live (not pasteurized) ales are something to behold. Few brewpubs have got into handdrawn ales in the US just yet, but the beer is almost as good as I get back home, says he who visited the Mountain Town brewpub in Mount Pleasant, MI, today and enjoyed a pint of really good American IPA ... not a style that you find in the UK (Youngs Specials maybe, but otherwise UK beers tend to be less hoppy than US beers). ************************************** Tony Gordon 72 TR6 ************************************** From sumton at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 13 18:48:39 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (oliver) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 19:48:39 -0600 Subject: [6pack] off topic In-Reply-To: <318543103-1197596531-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1000930648-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org><014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <318543103-1197596531-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1000930648-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <83CCD2530C6648A4ACCD2EDFF0D43A2A@garage.local> hi. i'm looking for john malinick, owner of the tr2 in hemmings. i'm actually looking for the paint code for ice blue can anyone help (please contact me off list)? he's located in Baltic, CT; Independent Quality Tools is his company. sorry for the bandwidth abuse From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Dec 13 18:53:58 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:53:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 3 carb heat shield Message-ID: <6FB69BED.531ABBD3.00159EE9@cs.com> how many orders are you and Ed getting? we will want to know how many to produce. joe alexander >Hi, all. > >we are about to get and install (finally!!) the prototype for the 3 carb >heatshield, designed for the goodparts zs conversion. > >i'll have pictures shortly. prices will be $90 including postage to the >continental US. > >who's interested? we'll be taking orders in a few weeks, with delivery a >few weeks after that. > >dave northrup >dallas, tx >_______________________________________________ > >Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > >6pack at autox.team.net >http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > >http://www.team.net/archive > >You are subscribed as n197tr4 at cs.com From mark at bradakis.com Thu Dec 13 20:40:02 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 20:40:02 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Home brews In-Reply-To: <318543103-1197596531-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1000930648-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <318543103-1197596531-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1000930648-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <4761FB12.4050401@bradakis.com> I used to do a lot of brewing, and have taken a couple kegs of personally produced product to VTR conventions in the past. Bad idea. It seemed like there was ALWAYS somebody in our room, and the housekeeping staff wondered why I was always going to the ice machine. I've got to get to another VTR convention soon, and amazingly enough I have never yet been to Triumphest. Maybe next year, we shall see. mjb. From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 21:18:44 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 21:18:44 -0700 Subject: [6pack] A living testament :) In-Reply-To: <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> Message-ID: <47620424.8050606@tscusa.org> Tony Gordon wrote: > What an excellent idea. I get back to the UK twice a year, and love > sampling all the real ales. Michigan is getting there, but the hand > drawn live (not pasteurized) ales are something to behold. Few > brewpubs have got into handdrawn ales in the US just yet, but the beer > is almost as good as I get back home, says he who visited the Mountain > Town brewpub in Mount Pleasant, MI, today and enjoyed a pint of > really good American IPA ... not a style that you find in the UK > (Youngs Specials maybe, but otherwise UK beers tend to be less hoppy > than US beers). > > ************************************** > Tony Gordon > 72 TR6 Ah Tony, you need to come visit Colorado. We have many brewpubs with beer engine pulls, cask conditioned ales. Might not be pulling from an earthen cellar, but the ale is just as good. But of course, Colorado is home to the Association of Home Brewer, Charlie Papazian, and the Great American Beer Festival. Another nice thing is, Colorado is now starting into small batch spirits too, and some of them are quite nice. All this talk about beer is making me real thirsty, I'll have to pop one! A nice Milk Stout from Lefthand Brewing right up the road, just right for a cold cold winter evening ... -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Thu Dec 13 21:23:18 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 21:23:18 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Home brews In-Reply-To: <4761FB12.4050401@bradakis.com> References: <4761D728.5010708@tscusa.org> <014501c83def$5414b360$660fa8c0@D1TG6Y71> <318543103-1197596531-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1000930648-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <4761FB12.4050401@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <47620536.9020901@tscusa.org> Mark J. Bradakis wrote: > I used to do a lot of brewing, and have taken a couple kegs of personally > produced product to VTR conventions in the past. Bad idea. It seemed > like there was ALWAYS somebody in our room, > > mjb. > Oh, that was YOUR room?? -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From dito9561 at bellsouth.net Thu Dec 13 21:59:16 2007 From: dito9561 at bellsouth.net (Greg Dito) Date: Thu, 13 Dec 2007 23:59:16 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Need late front engine plate References: <769933.24163.qm@web37902.mail.mud.yahoo.com> Message-ID: <001e01c83e0e$14ae7160$3e0b5420$@net> Thanks for everyone's help in finding a source for the needed parts. I did find the plate and thermostat housing. Thanks again! Greg Dito CD6250L Sent: Saturday, December 08, 2007 7:24 PM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Need late front engine plate Listers, Does anyone have a front engine plate for late 75 to 76 TR6 that they want to sell? This plate has a different pattern for the bracket that holds the air pump in addition to the alternator, versus the plate that is just for the alternator on earlier cars. From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Fri Dec 14 09:00:36 2007 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 08:00:36 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Summary of Non-Cancelling Turn Signal Fix Advice & A Fix for Wobbly Steering Column Message-ID: <658433.32978.qm@web60625.mail.yahoo.com> I'll likely be able to fix my turn signals at the same time I fix my steering column wobble. I have Art Lipp's kit that provides top and bottom delrin bushings and a wooden dowel to drive them in. With Art's technique you don't have to remove the steering column from the car. Old bushings remain. Electricals remain in place. Its reportedly a tight fit. Another lister pointed to a similar product that involves inserting a sleeve around the shaft from the top. Someone who has done this procedure should feel free to chime in. (Some details omitted) Ensure front wheels are straight. In order to drive the bushings in you remove steering wheel and horn bits, disconnect the upper inner column , and withdraw it through the interior. After cleaning up the inner ends of the tube with sandpaper, use the dowel and hammer to tap the bushings in top and bottom.of the steering column tube. Glue is also applied to the bushings to hold them tight. Re-installing the steering shaft in the column tube should allow me to ensure the turn signal clip on the shaft is lined up with the switch. Reinstall column cap and washer at bottom. Reconnect shaft. Re-install horn bits and centre steering wheel on shaft. Tighten up steering column mounting bolts at firewall as necessary. I have a new clip as its a cheap part, but doubt that's the problem. Several listers said that they cured their non-cancelling by loosening the switch mounting screws and moving the turn signal switch closer to the clip. If this doesn't work I guess the next step is a new switch. With luck the above will also solve an issue with the OD switch grounding out due to a loose steering column. If it doesn't come out of OD I twist the column with my hands to make it work. All this must wait till spring when my garage warms up from the deep freeze. Nice when one fox solves several problems. Thank you for all the advice. Bruce Simms 73 TR6 A type OD Get a sneak peak at messages with a handy reading pane with All new Yahoo! Mail: http://mail.yahoo.ca From rccpl1 at yahoo.com Fri Dec 14 14:15:33 2007 From: rccpl1 at yahoo.com (john doe) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 13:15:33 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] hi Message-ID: <81907.72671.qm@web30411.mail.mud.yahoo.com> anyone on this list in the rockland co area of new york --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com Fri Dec 14 15:27:41 2007 From: Robert.P.Waldrop at USA.dupont.com (Robert P Waldrop) Date: Fri, 14 Dec 2007 17:27:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Robert P Waldrop/AE/DuPont is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 12/14/2007 and will not return until 01/02/2008. You may leave me a voice-mail at 800-284-3382 ext 5324 and I'll respond when I'm able. I'll be checking email and voicemail during this time. Orders may be sent to: MCMCUSTOMERSERVICE at USA.DUPONT.COM or you can contact customer service at 800-284-3382 extension 5775 option #1. Regards, Robert This communication is for use by the intended recipient and contains information that may be Privileged, confidential or copyrighted under applicable law. If you are not the intended recipient, you are hereby formally notified that any use, copying or distribution of this e-mail, in whole or in part, is strictly prohibited. Please notify the sender by return e-mail and delete this e-mail from your system. Unless explicitly and conspicuously designated as "E-Contract Intended", this e-mail does not constitute a contract offer, a contract amendment, or an acceptance of a contract offer. This e-mail does not constitute a consent to the use of sender's contact information for direct marketing purposes or for transfers of data to third parties. Francais Deutsch Italiano Espanol Portugues Japanese Chinese Korean http://www.DuPont.com/corp/email_disclaimer.html From 64spitfire at pa.net Sat Dec 15 13:54:52 2007 From: 64spitfire at pa.net (Michael S Zakis) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 15:54:52 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Toyota Brakes Message-ID: <000d01c83f5c$bda66940$0201a8c0@D8R1S7C1> I installed Toyota brake calipers on 74 TR6. I can not get enough fluid to front calipers with one pump of the brake pedal it takes 2 to stop the car. Using stock master cylinder. Expected some extra travel, not 2 pumps. Thanks for the help Mike Zakis From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Dec 15 14:50:33 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 16:50:33 -0500 Subject: [6pack] FW: More Listers in Hemmings Message-ID: <000601c83f64$8674f330$210110ac@bobspc> Let me try this again............in plain text format and from an account that's registered with the Mail List.....Duh... Email below. This must be the month to have List members mentioned in Hemmings. First Glenn Merrell and now Ted Schumacher and Blake Discher. Blake for the Americas British Reliability Run and Ted for rescuing two Hemmings' editors whose Spit broke an axle during the Reliability Run. Here's the link (http://tinyurl.com/2fj3as) to the Jan '08 issue. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.2/1184 - Release Date: 12/14/2007 11:29 AM From tr6nut at verizon.net Sat Dec 15 15:48:32 2007 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 17:48:32 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Toyota Brakes In-Reply-To: <000d01c83f5c$bda66940$0201a8c0@D8R1S7C1> References: <000d01c83f5c$bda66940$0201a8c0@D8R1S7C1> Message-ID: <476459C0.5040605@verizon.net> Michael, Perhaps you don't have all the air out of the system. I have the Toyota calipers and they work great. Hugh Barber Stafford, VA '73 TR6 Michael S Zakis wrote: > I installed Toyota brake calipers on 74 TR6. > I can not get enough fluid to front calipers with one pump of the brake pedal > it takes 2 to stop the car. > Using stock master cylinder. Expected some extra travel, not 2 pumps. From patton at suscom-maine.net Sat Dec 15 17:13:15 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Sat, 15 Dec 2007 19:13:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Toyota Brakes In-Reply-To: <476459C0.5040605@verizon.net> Message-ID: Michael, I also have Toyota brakes and they work just fine. As Hugh mentioned you may need to do some more bleeding. Bleeders are on top? If the problem only shows after driving check your wheel bearings and rotor run out. Rick Patton http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > Behalf > Of Hugh Barber > > Michael, > > Perhaps you don't have all the air out of the system. I have the Toyota > calipers and they work great. > > Hugh Barber > > Michael S Zakis wrote: > > I installed Toyota brake calipers on 74 TR6. > > I can not get enough fluid to front calipers with one pump of > the brake pedal > > it takes 2 to stop the car. > snipped From darcyhunter at comcast.net Sun Dec 16 06:39:15 2007 From: darcyhunter at comcast.net (Darcy Hunter) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 08:39:15 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 Message-ID: <20071216134007.D0A671879E8@autox.team.net> Got a question regarding the grounding of my TR6. I added an O2 sensor with the proper readout device to my TR6 about a year ago. My hope is to use it to set-up the SU needles. Gage seemed to work well except that any time I turn on another electrical device like lights or fan blower, the readout shifts. I knew I needed to get this sorted and did a little work to try and assure myself I was getting a consistent 12 volts. Nothing obvious so it went on the back burner until this past Friday. I was flying home from the UK and sitting beside a gentleman who was a car buff having a 911 and a 914 w/ Wankle engine. When I described the problem, he immediately diagnosed as having ground leakage. Seemed good to me then I started thinking about how the body was strapped to ground. I had no good ideas and looking around the various catalog schematics were no help. I have been through most of the car over the years and have seen no ground straps except those associated with the steering column facilitating horn operation. My one "ah hah" was when I looked more closely at the ground cable going from the battery directly to the engine block. Mine is a heavily insulted black cable similar to the red positive. Is that cable supposed to be strapped to the body on the way down to the block? If so, anyone know if a '73 would have a braided cable or insulated with a small section stripped? Thanks and hope those in New England are enjoying the snowy morning. Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 North Easton, MA From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Dec 16 07:26:58 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 14:26:58 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 In-Reply-To: <20071216134007.D0A671879E8@autox.team.net> References: <20071216134007.D0A671879E8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE44D8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Hi Darcy, you should have a ground cable that goes from the battery -ve to a bolt on the rear lifting eye and then to a bolt on the body just across from the rear of the engine. This is usually a braided cable with no insulation, at least mine is. > Mine is a heavily insulted It may just be offended, try sending it flowers. Stan, also in a blizzard in northern MA -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Darcy Hunter Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 8:39 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 Got a question regarding the grounding of my TR6. I added an O2 sensor with the proper readout device to my TR6 about a year ago. My hope is to use it to set-up the SU needles. Gage seemed to work well except that any time I turn on another electrical device like lights or fan blower, the readout shifts. I knew I needed to get this sorted and did a little work to try and assure myself I was getting a consistent 12 volts. Nothing obvious so it went on the back burner until this past Friday. I was flying home from the UK and sitting beside a gentleman who was a car buff having a 911 and a 914 w/ Wankle engine. When I described the problem, he immediately diagnosed as having ground leakage. Seemed good to me then I started thinking about how the body was strapped to ground. I had no good ideas and looking around the various catalog schematics were no help. I have been through most of the car over the years and have seen no ground straps except those associated with the steering column facilitating horn operation. My one "ah hah" was when I looked more closely at the ground cable going from the battery directly to the engine block. Mine is a heavily insulted black cable similar to the red positive. Is that cable supposed to be strapped to the body on the way down to the block? If so, anyone know if a '73 would have a braided cable or insulated with a small section stripped? Thanks and hope those in New England are enjoying the snowy morning. Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 North Easton, MA From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Dec 16 07:42:59 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 09:42:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 In-Reply-To: <20071216134007.D0A671879E8@autox.team.net> References: <20071216134007.D0A671879E8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <000001c83ff1$f6effb90$6601a8c0@Robert> When I rebuilt my TR6, being a novice, I forgot to multiple ground. I installed only the battery negative to the block. This caused arcing at various other points in the engine compartment. I changed my mega ground cable to a three point; un insulated cable (as in attached to the battery, to the body and to the block). I also grounded the block to the frame in three locations. In order to have a closer ground for the rear lights, I grounded the body to the frame at the rear, close to the rear differential. I have been advised that grounding closer to the unit is better. This works for me on all my British cars. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html -----Original Message----- From mark at bradakis.com Sun Dec 16 12:35:23 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 12:35:23 -0700 (MST) Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? Message-ID: <20071216193523.ED76ABBE43@bradakis.com> The Roadster Factory recently had a special on seat belt kits. Has anyone gotten and installed them in a TR6? Do they fit and work well? mjb. --- From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Dec 16 13:15:21 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 20:15:21 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? In-Reply-To: <20071216193523.ED76ABBE43@bradakis.com> References: <20071216193523.ED76ABBE43@bradakis.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE44FC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> .. and for bonus points, do they work with the original seat belt keepers ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Mark J. Bradakis Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 2:35 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? The Roadster Factory recently had a special on seat belt kits. Has anyone gotten and installed them in a TR6? Do they fit and work well? mjb. --- From patton at suscom-maine.net Sun Dec 16 14:41:51 2007 From: patton at suscom-maine.net (Rick) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 16:41:51 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 In-Reply-To: <20071216134007.D0A671879E8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Hi Darcy, A ground that gave me some very interesting problems is the little wire from the negative battery terminal to a 1/4" spade terminal on the cowl next to the battery. I had all sorts of weird things happening like very slow wipers, gauges that didn't read correctly, etc. Got so bad I didn't dare drive it at night! Using a wire with alligator clips on each end I could see a little spark when clipping it between the battery post and a body part. Once in place everything came back to life. You could use a volt meter instead of the jumper wire set to DC volts- any reading over a few tenths of a volt is bad. The final fix was to clean the spade terminal on the cowl and add a light gauge braided ground strap from the battery to one of the wiper motor mounting bolts. I have an air/fuel ratio meter that now works nicely. Rick Patton 75 TR6sci http://topshamautoparts.com/tr6/ > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+patton=suscom-maine.net at autox.team.net]On Behalf > Of Darcy Hunter > Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 8:39 AM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 > > > Got a question regarding the grounding of my TR6. I added an O2 > sensor with > the proper readout device to my TR6 about a year ago. My hope is > snip From rpeglow at optonline.net Sun Dec 16 18:28:54 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 17:28:54 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 References: <20071216134007.D0A671879E8@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <001701c8404c$3031c780$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> TRF catalog shows 2 cables from battery. One goes to starter solenoid the other to the chassis. Whether braided or round should not matter as long as they are heavy enough to be actual battery cables and your connections are clean and tight. I would not jump on it as a grounding problem if you have had no other electrical issues. Modern cars with O2 sensors also have voltage stabilizers in the gauge circuits which may be necessary to get the consistent meter readings. Voltage variations in a TR6 are probably normal for the standard equipment of the day. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Darcy Hunter" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 5:39 AM Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 > Got a question regarding the grounding of my TR6. I added an O2 sensor with > the proper readout device to my TR6 about a year ago. My hope is to use it > to set-up the SU needles. Gage seemed to work well except that any time I > turn on another electrical device like lights or fan blower, the readout > shifts. I knew I needed to get this sorted and did a little work to try and > assure myself I was getting a consistent 12 volts. Nothing obvious so it > went on the back burner until this past Friday. I was flying home from the > UK and sitting beside a gentleman who was a car buff having a 911 and a 914 > w/ Wankle engine. When I described the problem, he immediately diagnosed as > having ground leakage. Seemed good to me then I started thinking about how > the body was strapped to ground. I had no good ideas and looking around the > various catalog schematics were no help. I have been through most of the > car over the years and have seen no ground straps except those associated > with the steering column facilitating horn operation. > > My one "ah hah" was when I looked more closely at the ground cable going > from the battery directly to the engine block. Mine is a heavily insulted > black cable similar to the red positive. Is that cable supposed to be > strapped to the body on the way down to the block? If so, anyone know if a > '73 would have a braided cable or insulated with a small section stripped? > Thanks and hope those in New England are enjoying the snowy morning. > > > > Darcy Hunter > > '73 TR6 > > North Easton, MA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Dec 16 15:55:28 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 14:55:28 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Proper Grounding of TR6 In-Reply-To: "Darcy Hunter" 's message of Sun, 16 Dec 2007 08:39:15 -0500 Message-ID: <25051-4765ACE0-5298@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Darcy--You are correct in that your A/F Monitor is responding to poor grounding of the electrical circuit. These gauges are sensitive to inadequate grounding. The braided cable with clean connections to both engine and body should solve your problem. You can prove this to yourself, by connecting a second (heavy gauge) wire between the engine block and (a bare spot on) the firewall, and then turn on your headlights with the engine running. Your monitor should then show no drop in LEDs. While this grounding is important, you could probably still get accurate info so far as setting up your SUs, so long as you do this with no accessories turned on. Dick '73 w/K&N A/F monitor Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.tea darcyhunter at comcast.net(Darcy Hunter) Date: Got a question regarding the grounding of my TR6. I added an O2 sensor with the proper readout device to my TR6 about a year ago. My hope is to use it to set-up the SU needles. .....Gage seemed to work well except that any time I turn on another electrical device like lights or fan blower, the readout shifts..... Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 North Easton, MA ______________________________________________ From samuelsma at aol.com Sun Dec 16 19:23:28 2007 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 21:23:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Carburetor hose Message-ID: <8CA0E6AF1D9E814-1470-48A5@webmail-md01.sysops.aol.com> I just got my '76 back from the shop after an extended stay.? In order to solve the plug fouling problem, the mechanic made a few changes.? First, he installed an MSD ignition box and?MSD plug wires.? Second, he spent some time adjusting the carb settings.? The carbs themselves (Zenith-Strombergs) were rebuilt less than 2000 miles ago.? Third, he hooked up some sort of tubing that I don't recognize from before.? It runs from a port on the front side of each carburetor to a T-fitting, and then from the fitting to the back of the air cleaner.? What is this tubing for?? Is it a PCV setup?? Why was it missing before and why do I have it back?? Anyone out there running an MSD ignition box? The good news is that I took the car for 2 pretty long test drives and it is running very strongly.? Even better, I pulled some of the plugs today after a 2-hour drive and they looked perfect.? The black, sooty look is gone.? After lots of time with a meter on the exhaust checking different RPM ranges for excessive rich or lean conditions,?the mechanic?returned to the stock needles and sent the others back to Joe Curto. The acid test will be when I slog through heavy traffic on my way to work this week.? If they don't foul then, I should be in good shape. Michael '76 Tahiti blue CF 57044U ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From jmitch at snet.net Sun Dec 16 20:09:12 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:09:12 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Carburetor hose In-Reply-To: <8CA0E6AF1D9E814-1470-48A5@webmail-md01.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA0E6AF1D9E814-1470-48A5@webmail-md01.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <4765E858.8000006@snet.net> On a 76 TR6 the hose from the valve cover should connect with those ports on the carbs and run to the center connection on the charcoal canister. I have pictures if you need them. John Mitchell 76 TR6 samuelsma at aol.com wrote: > The carbs themselves (Zenith-Strombergs) were rebuilt less than 2000 miles ago.? Third, he hooked up some sort of tubing that I don't recognize from before.? It runs from a port on the front side of each carburetor to a T-fitting, and then from the fitting to the back of the air cleaner.? What is this tubing for?? Is it a PCV setup?? Why was it missing before and why do I have it back?? Anyone out there running an MSD ignition box? From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Dec 16 20:12:17 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 03:12:17 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Carburetor hose In-Reply-To: <8CA0E6AF1D9E814-1470-48A5@webmail-md01.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA0E6AF1D9E814-1470-48A5@webmail-md01.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4525@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Michael, the later cars have vapor capture systems as well as the traditional crankcase breather and they all hook together with the large diameter tubing and feed into the carbon canister along with the narrower hard plastic tube from the fuel tank vent. It sounds like what you had added was the tubes to the carb float chamber vents. These plug into some hard to find plastic adapters to mate the hose to the fitting on the carb. Cant help you with the MSD question but I'm curious to know what you got. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of samuelsma at aol.com Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 9:23 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Carburetor hose I just got my '76 back from the shop after an extended stay.? In order to solve the plug fouling problem, the mechanic made a few changes.? First, he installed an MSD ignition box and?MSD plug wires.? Second, he spent some time adjusting the carb settings.? The carbs themselves (Zenith-Strombergs) were rebuilt less than 2000 miles ago.? Third, he hooked up some sort of tubing that I don't recognize from before.? It runs from a port on the front side of each carburetor to a T-fitting, and then from the fitting to the back of the air cleaner.? What is this tubing for?? Is it a PCV setup?? Why was it missing before and why do I have it back?? Anyone out there running an MSD ignition box? The good news is that I took the car for 2 pretty long test drives and it is running very strongly.? Even better, I pulled some of the plugs today after a 2-hour drive and they looked perfect.? The black, sooty look is gone.? After lots of time with a meter on the exhaust checking different RPM ranges for excessive rich or lean conditions,?the mechanic?returned to the stock needles and sent the others back to Joe Curto. The acid test will be when I slog through heavy traffic on my way to work this week.? If they don't foul then, I should be in good shape. Michael '76 Tahiti blue CF 57044U ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com _______________________________________________ From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Sun Dec 16 23:04:24 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jim hearn) Date: Sun, 16 Dec 2007 22:04:24 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Toyota Brakes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <000701c84072$aca3bb40$b1191718@computer> What year Toyota brakes work for a '74 TR6 and is there any extensive work that needs to be done to adapt them? Jim Two '74 TR6s -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 4:13 PM To: Michael S Zakis Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Toyota Brakes Michael, I also have Toyota brakes and they work just fine. As Hugh mentioned you may need to do some more bleeding. Bleeders are on top? If the problem only shows after driving check your wheel bearings and rotor run out. Rick Patton http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > Behalf > Of Hugh Barber > > Michael, > > Perhaps you don't have all the air out of the system. I have the Toyota > calipers and they work great. > > Hugh Barber > > Michael S Zakis wrote: > > I installed Toyota brake calipers on 74 TR6. > > I can not get enough fluid to front calipers with one pump of > the brake pedal > > it takes 2 to stop the car. > snipped 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Dec 17 08:38:15 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 07:38:15 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Carburetor hose References: <8CA0E6AF1D9E814-1470-48A5@webmail-md01.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <002401c840c2$d7327360$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> That tubing was also on earlier models. As mentioned by others the tubes are part of emission control and the allow fumes to be drawn from valve cover into engine to be burned. PO removed them from my 1970. I would like to restore them. If anyone knows the inside diameter of those hoses I would appreciate it??? I don't want to disturb the "plugs" on my carbs until I have the correct hoses to put back on. Thank you. Bob 1970 Signal Red ----- Original Message ----- From: To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sunday, December 16, 2007 6:23 PM Subject: [6pack] Carburetor hose > I just got my '76 back from the shop after an extended stay.? In order to solve the plug fouling problem, the mechanic made a few changes.? First, he installed an MSD ignition box and?MSD plug wires.? Second, he spent some time adjusting the carb settings.? The carbs themselves (Zenith-Strombergs) were rebuilt less than 2000 miles ago.? Third, he hooked up some sort of tubing that I don't recognize from before.? It runs from a port on the front side of each carburetor to a T-fitting, and then from the fitting to the back of the air cleaner.? What is this tubing for?? Is it a PCV setup?? Why was it missing before and why do I have it back?? Anyone out there running an MSD ignition box? > > The good news is that I took the car for 2 pretty long test drives and it is running very strongly.? Even better, I pulled some of the plugs today after a 2-hour drive and they looked perfect.? The black, sooty look is gone.? After lots of time with a meter on the exhaust checking different RPM ranges for excessive rich or lean conditions,?the mechanic?returned to the stock needles and sent the others back to Joe Curto. > > The acid test will be when I slog through heavy traffic on my way to work this week.? If they don't foul then, I should be in good shape. > > Michael > '76 Tahiti blue > CF 57044U > ________________________________________________________________________ > More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 17 05:48:20 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 07:48:20 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Toyota Brakes In-Reply-To: <000701c84072$aca3bb40$b1191718@computer> References: <000701c84072$aca3bb40$b1191718@computer> Message-ID: <000a01c840ab$1c2dad80$210110ac@bobspc> Jim, Here's a couple of links that deal with the conversion. http://www.turbo-tr6.info/tr6_brake_install.htm http://www.vtr.org/maintain/brake-conversion.shtml Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of jim hearn Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 1:04 AM To: patton at suscom-maine.net; 'Michael S Zakis' Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Toyota Brakes What year Toyota brakes work for a '74 TR6 and is there any extensive work that needs to be done to adapt them? Jim Two '74 TR6s -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+jimhearn1=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Rick Sent: Saturday, December 15, 2007 4:13 PM To: Michael S Zakis Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Toyota Brakes Michael, I also have Toyota brakes and they work just fine. As Hugh mentioned you may need to do some more bleeding. Bleeders are on top? If the problem only shows after driving check your wheel bearings and rotor run out. Rick Patton http://sidedrafttbi.com/ > Behalf > Of Hugh Barber > > Michael, > > Perhaps you don't have all the air out of the system. I have the Toyota > calipers and they work great. > > Hugh Barber > > Michael S Zakis wrote: > > I installed Toyota brake calipers on 74 TR6. > > I can not get enough fluid to front calipers with one pump of > the brake pedal > > it takes 2 to stop the car. > snipped 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007 11:36 AM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007 11:36 AM From jsvannorman at gmail.com Mon Dec 17 06:33:36 2007 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 08:33:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? Message-ID: Mark and Stan, I bought my seat belts from TRF about a year and a half ago. They are different than the originals, so you have to replace all the components. TRF's are of the "old school" style. You can see them in these pictures: http://vannorman.no-ip.org/albums/workphotos/100_0625.jpg http://vannorman.no-ip.org/albums/workphotos/100_0717.jpg I personally like them over the original ones, they have a bit more of a classic car feel to them. As for installation, fit, etc., I had no problems installing them and they fit just fine without any modification (although if you don't currently have a shoulder belt and are installing one, you'll have to do some modifications to drill the hole, install a backing plate, etc.). John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 > The Roadster Factory recently had a special on seat > belt kits. Has anyone gotten and installed them in > a TR6? Do they fit and work well? > > > .. and for bonus points, do they work with the original seat belt keepers ? > > Stan From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Mon Dec 17 07:16:27 2007 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:16:27 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Proper grounding Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B7480989705F@USCANCISNT05> Appreciate all the help. Looks like that cable should be braided so I'll get one from TRF, Not that it wouldn't be easy to strip a small piece of insulation from the current wire, but would like to keep the original look. Will let everyone know how it works out. Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Dec 17 09:36:57 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 11:36:57 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, The answer is - NO you cannot use the seat belt parking thingie with the new belts. To me, it's the ONLY drawback to getting them. However, I put safety very high on my list (much higher than concours "correctness") and I'd rather have a safe belt that's 5 years old than a "correct" 30-year-old belt that'll do "whatever" in the event of a shunt. FWIW, for the concours wannabes - VTR does not subtract points for replacement belts, at least they didn't when I tried judging a while back. All that said - if someone came up with a seat belt parker thingie for the new belts (I think they're "Secure-On" brand), you could sell quite a few to TR6 owners that installed the new belts. If you don't know what the seat belt parker thingie is, there was a black plastic thing (white plastic on some cars) secured to the inner sill where you could place the tab of the seat belt when not in use. It makes ingress / egress easier and the seat belt tab won't get caught in the door on occasion if you park 'em. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Pay no Attention to the DINGS in the door | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Dec 17 09:49:37 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 16:49:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE45E6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> The main advantage to me is that if you get in the car without retrieving the seatbelt you can find it by just reaching down to where it was parked and not have to grope around behind the seat trying to fish it out. I recall that Vance rebuilt his originals although I don't remember if he ever said where he got the webbing from. Vance, any chance of a quick recap on original seat belt refurb ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 11:37 AM To: John VanNorman Cc: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? Hi, The answer is - NO you cannot use the seat belt parking thingie with the new belts. To me, it's the ONLY drawback to getting them. However, I put safety very high on my list (much higher than concours "correctness") and I'd rather have a safe belt that's 5 years old than a "correct" 30-year-old belt that'll do "whatever" in the event of a shunt. FWIW, for the concours wannabes - VTR does not subtract points for replacement belts, at least they didn't when I tried judging a while back. All that said - if someone came up with a seat belt parker thingie for the new belts (I think they're "Secure-On" brand), you could sell quite a few to TR6 owners that installed the new belts. If you don't know what the seat belt parker thingie is, there was a black plastic thing (white plastic on some cars) secured to the inner sill where you could place the tab of the seat belt when not in use. It makes ingress / egress easier and the seat belt tab won't get caught in the door on occasion if you park 'em. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Pay no Attention to the DINGS in the door | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com Mon Dec 17 10:22:47 2007 From: Darcy_Hunter at Instron.com (Hunter, Darcy) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 12:22:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Proper grounding Message-ID: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B748098971C9@USCANCISNT05> My understanding it that the battery should be grounded at the bell housing but also to the firewall via a bolt that is on the firewall just behind the accelerator pedal shaft. Looks like it should be a braided cable with a metal clamp on the cable partway between the battery and the bell housing. The firewall bolt goes through the clamp and into the firewall. I plan on taking extra care to ensure there is no dirt or paint between the clamp and firewall. I've heard someone say the path is battery to bell housing back up to the firewall. Doesn't seems as logical but that no indicator of how it would have been originally engineered. Darcy -----Original Message----- From: forzion at maine.rr.com [mailto:forzion at maine.rr.com ] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 9:33 AM To: Hunter, Darcy Subject: Re: [6pack] Proper grounding Darcy; I'm a little lost on this. Of course, some have probably written back to you off list so I haven't seen everything on this that you have. My negative battery cable currently is grounded to a bolt on the tranny housing. Where else would I need to ground my car? Dave '74-Six > _____________________________________________ > From: Hunter, Darcy > Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 9:16 AM > To: '6pack at autox.team.net' > Subject: Proper grounding > > Appreciate all the help. Looks like that cable should be braided so I'll get one from TRF, Not that it wouldn't be easy to strip a small piece of insulation from the current wire, but would like to keep the original look. Will let everyone know how it works out. > > > Darcy Hunter > '73 TR6 > No. Easton, MA From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Dec 17 10:09:20 2007 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:09:20 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE45E6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE45E6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: Folks: I tried taking the belts to an auto upholsterer, but he did not want to do them. I inquired at my favorite LBC shop, and they said they would reweb them for me, but I had to disassemble and reassemble the retractors (everybody, it seems, is afraid of lawsuits). So I popped mine apart and British Auto Works rewebbed the belts for me. I cleaned and lubricated the mechanisms (one was frozen by rust!! Yeow!) and they are back in the car working just fine, thank you. I repainted them in hammered silver, and they look like new. The only caveat to my experience is that you must be very careful during disassembly or the retractor spring goes SPROING! and you spend an hour rewinding it while muttering creative but anatomically unlikely combinations of a Kangol engineer and the retractor. Other than that, it is work for idiots (and that means I am VERY qualified). If you want to do it all yourself, you can get 2" black webbing from fabric stores, but I would worry about the applicability of that to an automotive application. It is the proper size and very robust, however. I used that stuff to reweb my soft top. Maybe an auto upholsterer would sell you the webbing? Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: December 17, 2007 8:50 AM To: Robert Lang; John VanNorman Cc: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? I recall that Vance rebuilt his originals although I don't remember if he ever said where he got the webbing from. Vance, any chance of a quick recap on original seat belt refurb ? Stan From vance.navarrette at intel.com Mon Dec 17 10:30:57 2007 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:30:57 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Proper grounding In-Reply-To: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B748098971C9@USCANCISNT05> References: <50B2EBC363FB4C48A63095307766B748098971C9@USCANCISNT05> Message-ID: Darcy: The correct route is battery to firewall to engine lifting hook. A very common error is to attached the engine ground to the bell housing (probably because it is a bit easier) but the correct attachment point is to the rear engine lifting hook. The correct cable is a braided cable, with no insulation. If you want a correct cable and cannot find one, I know that British Auto Works has them, as that is where I got mine (used). Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Hunter, Darcy Sent: December 17, 2007 9:23 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Re: [6pack] Proper grounding My understanding it that the battery should be grounded at the bell housing but also to the firewall via a bolt that is on the firewall just behind the accelerator pedal shaft. Looks like it should be a braided cable with a metal clamp on the cable partway between the battery and the bell housing. The firewall bolt goes through the clamp and into the firewall. I plan on taking extra care to ensure there is no dirt or paint between the clamp and firewall. I've heard someone say the path is battery to bell housing back up to the firewall. Doesn't seems as logical but that no indicator of how it would have been originally engineered. Darcy From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Dec 17 11:26:40 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 18:26:40 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE45E6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE45E6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <2100273871-1197916100-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1038160944-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I rebuilt mine, got the webbing from the auto salvage yard off a late model with black belts for a few bucks, just bring some heavy duty scissors and try to match the length of the old ones. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Foster, Stan" Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 16:49:37 To:Robert Lang , John VanNorman Cc:6-Pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? The main advantage to me is that if you get in the car without retrieving the seatbelt you can find it by just reaching down to where it was parked and not have to grope around behind the seat trying to fish it out. I recall that Vance rebuilt his originals although I don't remember if he ever said where he got the webbing from. Vance, any chance of a quick recap on original seat belt refurb ? Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Robert Lang Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 11:37 AM To: John VanNorman Cc: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? Hi, The answer is - NO you cannot use the seat belt parking thingie with the new belts. To me, it's the ONLY drawback to getting them. However, I put safety very high on my list (much higher than concours "correctness") and I'd rather have a safe belt that's 5 years old than a "correct" 30-year-old belt that'll do "whatever" in the event of a shunt. FWIW, for the concours wannabes - VTR does not subtract points for replacement belts, at least they didn't when I tried judging a while back. All that said - if someone came up with a seat belt parker thingie for the new belts (I think they're "Secure-On" brand), you could sell quite a few to TR6 owners that installed the new belts. If you don't know what the seat belt parker thingie is, there was a black plastic thing (white plastic on some cars) secured to the inner sill where you could place the tab of the seat belt when not in use. It makes ingress / egress easier and the seat belt tab won't get caught in the door on occasion if you park 'em. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Pay no Attention to the DINGS in the door | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Dec 17 11:37:55 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 18:37:55 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? In-Reply-To: References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE45E6@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <1265144048-1197916774-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1745589034-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> If you go on 6PACK and do a search, you will find a very helpful thread on the rebuild with pictures of the inside and what how to avoid the surprise and unrecoverable SPROING that Vance refers to. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 09:09:20 To:"Foster, Stan" Cc:6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? Folks: I tried taking the belts to an auto upholsterer, but he did not want to do them. I inquired at my favorite LBC shop, and they said they would reweb them for me, but I had to disassemble and reassemble the retractors (everybody, it seems, is afraid of lawsuits). So I popped mine apart and British Auto Works rewebbed the belts for me. I cleaned and lubricated the mechanisms (one was frozen by rust!! Yeow!) and they are back in the car working just fine, thank you. I repainted them in hammered silver, and they look like new. The only caveat to my experience is that you must be very careful during disassembly or the retractor spring goes SPROING! and you spend an hour rewinding it while muttering creative but anatomically unlikely combinations of a Kangol engineer and the retractor. Other than that, it is work for idiots (and that means I am VERY qualified). If you want to do it all yourself, you can get 2" black webbing from fabric stores, but I would worry about the applicability of that to an automotive application. It is the proper size and very robust, however. I used that stuff to reweb my soft top. Maybe an auto upholsterer would sell you the webbing? Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Foster, Stan Sent: December 17, 2007 8:50 AM To: Robert Lang; John VanNorman Cc: 6-Pack Subject: Re: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? I recall that Vance rebuilt his originals although I don't remember if he ever said where he got the webbing from. Vance, any chance of a quick recap on original seat belt refurb ? Stan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Mon Dec 17 11:45:04 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 13:45:04 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] TRF seatbelts? In-Reply-To: <001c01c840db$16523180$800101df@garage.local> References: <001c01c840db$16523180$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: On Mon, 17 Dec 2007, Oliver wrote: > really? i've never noticed the seat belt parking thingie. > > where exactly??????? it was located on the outer sill just about even with the seam between the front footwell carpet and the carpet under the seat. If your car is "unmolested", there are likely two sheet metal screw holes in the in inner sill at the proper location. > thanks . . . no prob. I just had an epiphany - TRF has the green catalog on-line. The part is illustrated on plate GK and the part number is/was 725695 and is called "parking device". regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From tr6taylor at webtv.net Mon Dec 17 14:18:52 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 13:18:52 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Proper grounding In-Reply-To: "Hunter, Darcy" 's message of Mon, 17 Dec 2007 12:22:47 -0500 Message-ID: <24266-4766E7BC-6524@storefull-3133.bay.webtv.net> Darcy and Dave---For one thing the braided cable is difficult to keep clean, with grime and electrolisis setting in, so many of us didn't replace them with the same woven brass. Instead, the plastic coated ones with the dual metal straps were used. One strap is connected to the original bolt on the firewall, which gives a body ground,,and the other strap to the engine backplate/bellhousing. By osmosis they all get together, but with rubber mounts and paint in the path, sometimes the (engine) ground isn't as good as it should be. This "loss" can show up more readily on those cars that have a voltmeter, and is evident when the VM doesn't show full charge when accessories are on (and the engine is at road speed). If you've upgraded your alternator, it can show full charge even at idle speed, with accessories on. The fix can be either using the original style braided cable with a three point connection, or making a secondary ground path from somewhere on the engine to a good body contact, like the firewall bolt. Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team From: Darcy Re: [6pack] Proper grounding My understanding it that the battery should be grounded at the bell housing but also to the firewall via a bolt that is on the firewall just behind the accelerator pedal shaft. Looks like it should be a braided cable with a metal clamp on the cable partway between the battery and the bell housing. The firewall bolt goes through the clamp and into the firewall. I plan on taking extra care to ensure there is no dirt or paint between the clamp and firewall. I've heard someone say the path is battery to bell housing back up to the firewall. Doesn't seems as logical but that no indicator of how it would have been originally engineered. Darcy -----Original Message----- From: forzion at maine.rr.com [mailto:forzion at maine.rr.com ] Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 9:33 AM To: Hunter, Darcy Subject: Re: [6pack] Proper grounding Darcy; I'm a little lost on this. Of course, some have probably written back to you off list so I haven't seen everything on this that you have. My negative battery cable currently is grounded to a bolt on the tranny housing. Where else would I need to ground my car? Dave '74-Six _____________________________________________ From: Hunter, Darcy Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 9:16 AM To: '6pack at autox.team.net' Subject: Proper grounding Appreciate all the help. Looks like that cable should be braided so I'll get one from TRF, Not that it wouldn't be easy to strip a small piece of insulation from the current wire, but would like to keep the original look. Will let everyone know how it works out. Darcy Hunter '73 TR6 No. Easton, MA ______________________________________ From stuartt at tlthompson.com Mon Dec 17 15:15:36 2007 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 16:15:36 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Message-ID: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> Hello All: I want to replace my original canister type oil filter with the more modern spin-on adapter. How difficult is it to do this? I see the adapter for sale on Moss. Do I just buy the adapter and a filter and spin them on? I want to be sure I have everything I need before attempting this on my own. Thanks & Merry Christmas! Stuart From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Dec 17 16:25:38 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 23:25:38 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Stuart, it is a simple and worthwhile conversion. Everything you need will come with the kit. There are several options for filters all readily available at your local autoparts store. Just remove the old canister, remove the old rubber ring gasket from the groove in the block. Fit the new gasket that came with the adapter into the block and fit the smaller seal into the recess in the adapter and bolt it up. Two things to remember: 1. Even using the short oil filters you will need to angle the filter forward a little to clear the slave cylinder and its bleed nipple. Sort out that angle before you finally tighten the adapter bolt. 2. Nobody in the US sells replacement rubber seals so if in two years you need to take it off for some reason you will be challenged to find replacements as none of the many outfits that sell the adapter sell the seals and Rimmer charges $20 plus shipping from the UK for them. The reason for this omission is one of the many mysteries in life. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 5:16 PM To: 6 Pack list Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Hello All: I want to replace my original canister type oil filter with the more modern spin-on adapter. How difficult is it to do this? I see the adapter for sale on Moss. Do I just buy the adapter and a filter and spin them on? I want to be sure I have everything I need before attempting this on my own. Thanks & Merry Christmas! Stuart _______________________________________________ From gregbengeult at comcast.net Mon Dec 17 16:36:35 2007 From: gregbengeult at comcast.net (Greg Bengeult) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:36:35 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <47670803.3090108@comcast.net> Not exactly true. A couple of years ago I was rebuilding my engine and needed a new set of seals for the adapter. I called the Roadster Factory and talked to someone very helpful (Dave maybe?). They do stock a kit with both of the seals, but it didn't show up in any catalogs at that time. Can't say whether it's a catalog item now or not. Greg Bengeult Foster, Stan wrote: > > 2. Nobody in the US sells replacement rubber seals so if in two years you need > to take it off for some reason you will be challenged to find replacements as > none of the many outfits that sell the adapter sell the seals and Rimmer > charges $20 plus shipping from the UK for them. The reason for this omission > is one of the many mysteries in life. > > Stan From rclark at robertsonclark.com Mon Dec 17 16:46:05 2007 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:46:05 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <47670803.3090108@comcast.net> Message-ID: Is there still an issue that the spin on adapter won't work on some earlier blocks. When I bought mine, Moss indicated that it wouldn't fit certain blocks. I was never confidant that my block wasn't one of those so I never put it on. Bob Clark '69 TR6 From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Dec 17 16:51:16 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 23:51:16 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <47670803.3090108@comcast.net> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><47670803.3090108@comcast.net> Message-ID: <502295052-1197935578-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1614199450-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Ditto, you can also order them separetely thay are about $1 or less each. As Greg said you have to ask for the part number(s). I would order their kit as I have heard of casting problems causing the others to leak. Lou -----Original Message----- From: Greg Bengeult Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:36:35 To:6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Not exactly true. A couple of years ago I was rebuilding my engine and needed a new set of seals for the adapter. I called the Roadster Factory and talked to someone very helpful (Dave maybe?). They do stock a kit with both of the seals, but it didn't show up in any catalogs at that time. Can't say whether it's a catalog item now or not. Greg Bengeult Foster, Stan wrote: > > 2. Nobody in the US sells replacement rubber seals so if in two years you need > to take it off for some reason you will be challenged to find replacements as > none of the many outfits that sell the adapter sell the seals and Rimmer > charges $20 plus shipping from the UK for them. The reason for this omission > is one of the many mysteries in life. > > Stan _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From lfm614 at aol.com Mon Dec 17 17:02:10 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 00:02:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Message-ID: <1111494907-1197936232-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1878451078-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Don't know, I have a 72 and it works fine. Lou ------Original Message------ From: Robert N. Clark Sender: 6pack-bounces+lfm614=aol.com at autox.team.net To: TR-6 list Sent: Dec 17, 2007 5:46 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Is there still an issue that the spin on adapter won't work on some earlier blocks. When I bought mine, Moss indicated that it wouldn't fit certain blocks. I was never confidant that my block wasn't one of those so I never put it on. Bob Clark '69 TR6 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From rpeglow at optonline.net Mon Dec 17 20:18:54 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 19:18:54 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <002001c84124$b8527960$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Victoria British offers a spin-on oil filter adapter for $79.95. TRF has spin-on oil filter adapter on sale now for $64.95 (norm $69.95). Moss motors has spin-on adapter for $64.15 and they offer a filter for "MOSS ONLY SPIN-ON ADAPTER". What's that all about, anyone know? VTR recommends using Fram 3600 filter for spin-on adapter since other filters cause oil pressure issues but they make no mention of spin-on adapter brands. See http://www.vtr.org/maintain/tr6-spinon.shtml Does anyone have the adapter on a 1970 TR6? Bob ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: "Stuart Thompson" ; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 3:25 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter > Stuart, it is a simple and worthwhile conversion. Everything you need will > come with the kit. There are several options for filters all readily available > at your local autoparts store. Just remove the old canister, remove the old > rubber ring gasket from the groove in the block. Fit the new gasket that came > with the adapter into the block and fit the smaller seal into the recess in > the adapter and bolt it up. > > Two things to remember: > > 1. Even using the short oil filters you will need to angle the filter forward > a little to clear the slave cylinder and its bleed nipple. Sort out that angle > before you finally tighten the adapter bolt. > > 2. Nobody in the US sells replacement rubber seals so if in two years you need > to take it off for some reason you will be challenged to find replacements as > none of the many outfits that sell the adapter sell the seals and Rimmer > charges $20 plus shipping from the UK for them. The reason for this omission > is one of the many mysteries in life. > > Stan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart > Thompson > Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 5:16 PM > To: 6 Pack list > Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter > > Hello All: > > I want to replace my original canister type oil filter with the more modern > spin-on adapter. > How difficult is it to do this? I see the adapter for sale on Moss. Do I just > buy the adapter > and a filter and spin them on? I want to be sure I have everything I need > before attempting > this on my own. > > Thanks & Merry Christmas! > > Stuart > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Dec 17 16:58:12 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 23:58:12 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <502295052-1197935578-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1614199450-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net><47670803.3090108@comcast.net> <502295052-1197935578-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1614199450-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46D3@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Well I stand corrected about the availability of the seals, they are not listed on any of the vendor web sites that sell the adapter as far as I was able to check (TRF, Moss, VB, BPNW etc. That is good info to know. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of lfm614 at aol.com Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 6:51 PM To: gregbengeult at comcast.net; TR-6 list Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Ditto, you can also order them separetely thay are about $1 or less each. As Greg said you have to ask for the part number(s). I would order their kit as I have heard of casting problems causing the others to leak. Lou -----Original Message----- From: Greg Bengeult Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 15:36:35 To:6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Not exactly true. A couple of years ago I was rebuilding my engine and needed a new set of seals for the adapter. I called the Roadster Factory and talked to someone very helpful (Dave maybe?). They do stock a kit with both of the seals, but it didn't show up in any catalogs at that time. Can't say whether it's a catalog item now or not. Greg Bengeult Foster, Stan wrote: > > 2. Nobody in the US sells replacement rubber seals so if in two years you need > to take it off for some reason you will be challenged to find replacements as > none of the many outfits that sell the adapter sell the seals and Rimmer > charges $20 plus shipping from the UK for them. The reason for this omission > is one of the many mysteries in life. > > Stan From anabil007 at comcast.net Mon Dec 17 17:32:21 2007 From: anabil007 at comcast.net (Bill & AnnaBelle) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 16:32:21 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <002001c84124$b8527960$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <002001c84124$b8527960$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: We have the spin on adaptor on the 70 TR6, i use NAPA Gold 1516 filters (by WIX) or if you can find WIX filters the number is 51516 ... there was an exhaustive, destructive test conducted a few years ago (I think by TeriAnn) and these filters were found to be far superior to the others ... FWIW Fram was the worst ... >Victoria British offers a spin-on oil filter adapter for $79.95. >TRF has spin-on oil filter adapter on sale now for $64.95 (norm $69.95). >Moss motors has spin-on adapter for $64.15 and they offer a filter for "MOSS >ONLY SPIN-ON ADAPTER". >What's that all about, anyone know? >VTR recommends using Fram 3600 filter for spin-on adapter since other >filters cause oil pressure issues but they make no mention of spin-on >adapter brands. > See http://www.vtr.org/maintain/tr6-spinon.shtml >Does anyone have the adapter on a 1970 TR6? >Bob -- Bill Pugh 1957 TR3 TS16765L aka Casper AnnaBelle Pugh 1970 TR6 CC59179L aka Rosey Wallace, CA From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Dec 17 17:51:12 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 00:51:12 +0000 Subject: [6pack] ZDDP and modern engine oils Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46EC@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Bob Lang mentioned this issue to me the other day and it went in one ear and out of the other. The message finally sank in when I talked to a local machinist who was telling me about the high numbers of flat tappet engines that are starting to fail due to worn out cams and tappets. Am I the only one on this list that doesn't know and is still using off the shelf 20/50 with no additives ? There is a good review of the situation here: http://www.netbug.net/blogmichael/?p=49 The guy at the machine shop was suggesting a Crane additive or Comp Break In Additive (include a bottle with each oil change) and Bob L mentioned special oils designed for Diesel engine or racing engines etc. All of the remedies mean doing something more than what I'm doing today.. Stan Stan Foster | [cid:image001.gif at 01C840E5.C12C1800] [cid:image002.gif at 01C840E5.C12C1800] | HP Technology Solutions Group | +1 281 926 9015 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image002.gif] From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Mon Dec 17 17:58:05 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 00:58:05 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE46C8@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <014501c84111$0cda1f10$0201a8c0@Bevan> All I would add to Stan's useful input is that when removing the original ring on the engine block, it's worth spending a little time with a fine pointed screwdriver and a rag soaked in a cleaning agent and be thorough in cleaning the groove. Any deposit still in there when you come to fit the new ring followed by the filter adaptor can result in an uneven seal and a leak. As for the life of the ring under the adaptor, mine has been in place now for over seven years and has neither leaked or shown signs of collapse. Jonmac ----- Original Message ----- From: "Foster, Stan" To: "Stuart Thompson" ; "6-Pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 11:25 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter > Stuart, it is a simple and worthwhile conversion. Everything you need will > come with the kit. There are several options for filters all readily available > at your local autoparts store. Just remove the old canister, remove the old > rubber ring gasket from the groove in the block. Fit the new gasket that came > with the adapter into the block and fit the smaller seal into the recess in > the adapter and bolt it up. > > Two things to remember: > > 1. Even using the short oil filters you will need to angle the filter forward > a little to clear the slave cylinder and its bleed nipple. Sort out that angle > before you finally tighten the adapter bolt. > > 2. Nobody in the US sells replacement rubber seals so if in two years you need > to take it off for some reason you will be challenged to find replacements as > none of the many outfits that sell the adapter sell the seals and Rimmer > charges $20 plus shipping from the UK for them. The reason for this omission > is one of the many mysteries in life. > > Stan > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart > Thompson > Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 5:16 PM > To: 6 Pack list > Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter > > Hello All: > > I want to replace my original canister type oil filter with the more modern > spin-on adapter. > How difficult is it to do this? I see the adapter for sale on Moss. Do I just > buy the adapter > and a filter and spin them on? I want to be sure I have everything I need > before attempting > this on my own. > > Thanks & Merry Christmas! > > Stuart > _______________________________________________ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as standardtriumph at btinternet.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 17 18:46:53 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 20:46:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5 Speed, Nissan Diff Message-ID: <000301c84117$dfd87fa0$210110ac@bobspc> Well it's that time of year when the TR6 is sitting high on her jack stands wondering what "he's" going to do to her this winter. I've got some major surgery planned including a Toyota 5 speed, Goodparts' Nissan differential upgrade and a complete brake overhaul. I just updated my site with lots of pictures of the prep work so far. It's all under the link called "The Big Six O" Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1187 - Release Date: 12/16/2007 11:36 AM From samuelsma at aol.com Mon Dec 17 18:47:07 2007 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 20:47:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TRF seat belts Message-ID: <8CA0F2F080655C3-D1C-10A7@WEBMAIL-MC13.sysops.aol.com> Mark: I installed TRF belts just a few months ago when they had their special.? The belts use all the original mounting points and come with good hardware.? I found that they mounted quite securely.? The whole project only took me about an hour, and I am not nearly as skilled a mechanic as some of the really helpful guys on the list (as if you couldn't tell from my questions!). My seat belts were original and I loved the arrangement, especially the way the female end was positioned on the trans tunnel so you could always find it.? However, the driver's side retractor kept hanging up on me and didn't stop when I lubricated it.? Also, 30-year-old webbing is pretty scary. One problem with the new belts:? The buckle doesn't always click securely on the flat piece on the first try.? You always need to confirm that the belts are securely buckled.? It just has to do with how the pieces fit together, but once buckled, they stay that way. Michael '76 Tahiti blue ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 17 19:14:51 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 17 Dec 2007 21:14:51 EST Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter and TRF Message-ID: In a message dated 12/17/2007 6:36:48 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, gregbengeult at comcast.net writes: I called the Roadster Factory and talked to someone very helpful (Dave maybe?). They do stock a kit with both of the seals, but it didn't show up in any catalogs at that time. I am usually a fast learner but it has taken me a long time to learn this. TRF has a lot of parts that you may or may not find in one of their catalogues. Lately they have bailed me out of no fewer than three situations where the parts were "unavailable" by others. Call and ask. They came through with parts that threatened to hold up my TR project. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From glccrc at ptd.net Tue Dec 18 03:25:58 2007 From: glccrc at ptd.net (glc / crc) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 05:25:58 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TRF seat belts In-Reply-To: <8CA0F2F080655C3-D1C-10A7@WEBMAIL-MC13.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <20071218102632.2769E1879DA@autox.team.net> Speaking of seat belts, My '70 came with racing (Simpson) lap belts that are, at best, from a 1980-82 rebuild. While they look racy, the passenger side soils the redhead's clothing, and she's asked for inertia reel "normal" belt. I, on the other hand, hold out hope that I will take it out for autocrossing and don't want to replace the driver's side if this gets to a level where a higher degree of safety is required. While I believe I'm toast if it ever gets to a moment when a 5th point is needed, a 4-pt that could be used more conveniently as a 3 on the street (one shoulder and lap) would fill this need. Plus with trip webers, monza, rollbar, and sun tach atop dash (yea, orig "floats") I'm not ready to let go of the "serious" look on my side. Any ideas? This is a fun car that is daily 8 months of the year, 20 minutes of stress management twice a day; not worried about stock look. George Church 70 '6 -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+glccrc=ptd.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of samuelsma at aol.com Sent: Monday, December 17, 2007 8:47 PM To: mark at bradakis.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] TRF seat belts Mark: I installed TRF belts just a few months ago when they had their special.? The belts use all the original mounting points and come with good hardware.? I found that they mounted quite securely.? The whole project only took me about an hour, and I am not nearly as skilled a mechanic as some of the really helpful guys on the list (as if you couldn't tell from my questions!). My seat belts were original and I loved the arrangement, especially the way the female end was positioned on the trans tunnel so you could always find it.? However, the driver's side retractor kept hanging up on me and didn't stop when I lubricated it.? Also, 30-year-old webbing is pretty scary. One problem with the new belts:? The buckle doesn't always click securely on the flat piece on the first try.? You always need to confirm that the belts are securely buckled.? It just has to do with how the pieces fit together, but once buckled, they stay that way. Michael '76 Tahiti blue ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as glccrc at ptd.net From emanteno at comcast.net Tue Dec 18 05:48:27 2007 From: emanteno at comcast.net (emanteno at comcast.net) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 12:48:27 +0000 Subject: [6pack] TRF seat belts Message-ID: <121820071248.11228.4767C19B000B929C00002BDC2200763704970A9D010507@comcast.net> -------------- Original message -------------- From: "glc / crc" > > Any ideas? This is a fun car that is daily 8 months of the year, 20 minutes > of stress management twice a day; not worried about stock look. When I was actively autocrossing my TR6, I added an eyebolt at one of the roll bar mounts, an eyebolt in the floor in front of the seat for an anti-sub belt, and 2 eyebolts replacing regular bolts in the floor. I was able to snap in 3" lap belts, as well as shoulder belts and the anti-sub. When I was done, I snapped them out and put them away for the next time. On the street, I use my regular 3 point belts. Worked great for me. Irv Korey 74 TR6 CF22767U Highland Park, IL From john.zimmerman at dpg.com Tue Dec 18 06:29:42 2007 From: john.zimmerman at dpg.com (Zimmerman, John) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:29:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Oil Filters Message-ID: <1198AF794DB13D4591672B50B6621A226DEF69@stvexch1.vandorn.dpg.com> I was reading the thread regarding spin on adapters. I had one installed a few years ago by a shop here. The filter installed is a Bosh filter. I guess my question is, are all the adapters the same, regardless of which of the big three they came from? I've seen reference to Fram filters and a few others, but never the Bosch Thanks in advance, John Zimmerman Traffic Supervisor Demag Plastics Group Phone: (440) 876-6251 Fax: (440) 876-6428 e-mail: john.zimmerman at dpg.com This message was scanned for viruses by BitDefender. For more information please visit our web site http://www.bitdefender.com/ From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Dec 18 09:39:19 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:39:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Oil Filters References: <1198AF794DB13D4591672B50B6621A226DEF69@stvexch1.vandorn.dpg.com> Message-ID: <002501c84194$896a4ef0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Check out this article, many filter brands listed for spin-on adapter. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of100b.htm Regards, Bob 70 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Zimmerman, John" To: <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 5:29 AM Subject: [6pack] Oil Filters > I was reading the thread regarding spin on adapters. I had one installed a > few years ago by a shop here. The filter installed is a Bosh filter. I > guess my question is, are all the adapters the same, regardless of which of > the big three they came from? I've seen reference to Fram filters and a few > others, but never the Bosch > > > > Thanks in advance, > > > > John Zimmerman > > Traffic Supervisor > > Demag Plastics Group > > > > Phone: (440) 876-6251 > > Fax: (440) 876-6428 > > e-mail: john.zimmerman at dpg.com > > > > > > This message was scanned for viruses by BitDefender. > For more information please visit our web site http://www.bitdefender.com/ > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Dec 18 07:23:22 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 14:23:22 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: team, Unless I missed a post, nobody mentioned how to remove the original canister from the vehicle. This can be a 'neat trick' on a left hand steer car, as the steering column is on the 'wrong side'. I've removed my steering column once, but I recall having a devil of a time getting it back on. Someone once mentioned dropping down the clutch slave, but if my clutch is operating properly that's not something I'd want to mess with. Those may be the only two options. I've changed the original filter on my 69 dozens of times with no issue. However, changing the original on my brother's 73 just once and we agreed he needs a spin on conversion. I couldn't figure out why they were so different, but it was just almost impossible to reach everything. Also, the PO had drilled a 2 inch hole in the fender-well to allow a socket wrench to reach the filter. At first I thought, how silly, but after the hour long task of getting that bugger off and back on I'm not sure I could have done it without the hole, and all four of our hands. Sloane :) 69-Six> How difficult is it to do this? I see the adapter for sale on Moss. Do I just> buy the adapter> and a filter and spin them on? I want to be sure I have everything I need> before attempting> this on my own.> > Thanks & Merry Christmas!> > Stuart _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 From rnorris1 at swbell.net Tue Dec 18 07:43:51 2007 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:43:51 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spin-on Adaptor Message-ID: <4767DCA7.1020300@swbell.net> Stuart, my '75 has a similar hole in the left fender well and, upon discovering its utility for reaching the stock oil filter, I decided the PO had to have placed it there. I was informed by those far more knowledgeable than I that the well placed hole is standard equipment and designed by an engineer that was on the payroll. In my case, with the car up on jack, I can easily reach the canister to hold it in position for securing from underneath the frame with my right hand while spinning the ratchet with my left. And to think, we often find amusement in the creations of engineers. Rick Norris From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Dec 18 08:26:38 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 10:26:38 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: On Mon, 17 Dec 2007, Robert N. Clark wrote: > Is there still an issue that the spin on adapter won't work on some > earlier blocks. When I bought mine, Moss indicated that it wouldn't fit > certain blocks. I was never confidant that my block wasn't one of those > so I never put it on. I cannot address the issue of "which block the kit fits", but I do know from direct experience that the Mocal brand adapter that comes with the oil cooler comes with instructions on how to determine if the inner seal is sealing properly. In short, you assemble the adapter to the block with some modelling clay on the inner flat area... tighten down to spec and hten remove. Depending on what you see, you may need an thicker o-ring in the inner seal groove. So, you can easily determine if the adapter will work. I have bought several of these adapters, some are from Mocal, some are not. Overall, this is a really great upgrade for TR6. It makes oil changes a snap and with the proper filter (with anti-drainback valve) your cold startup won't allow the engine to run dry (which it can do wiith the stock filter). regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From kmcnelis at nmsu.edu Tue Dec 18 09:13:52 2007 From: kmcnelis at nmsu.edu (Dr L. Kevin McNelis) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 09:13:52 -0700 (MST) Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Message-ID: <7463145.1197994432469.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> Robert Lang wrote: Overall, this is a really great upgrade for TR6. It makes oil changes a snap and with the proper filter (with anti-drainback valve) your cold startup won't allow the engine to run dry (which it can do wiith the stock filter). <\snip> So, Robert, what is a "proper" oil filter? I've been running the NAPA Gold- good enough? Or is something else better? Kevin From jmitch at snet.net Tue Dec 18 09:33:27 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:33:27 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> Dropping the slave cylinder is the easiest way. Undo 2 bolts and just let it hang down by the hose. When done, bolt it back up and your done. This will not affect the clutch in any way. I do it whenever I change the filter in the canister, which is every other oil change. Of course I never let the oil get very dirty. John Mitchell 76 TR6 P.S. an alternative is to try and flex the drive shaft enough to slip the cannister by. im sloane wrote: > team, > Unless I missed a post, nobody mentioned how to remove the original canister > from the vehicle. This can be a 'neat trick' on a left hand steer car, as the > steering column is on the 'wrong side'. I've removed my steering column once, > but I recall having a devil of a time getting it back on. Someone once > mentioned dropping down the clutch slave, but if my clutch is operating > properly that's not something I'd want to mess with. Those may be the only two > options. From lfm614 at aol.com Tue Dec 18 09:40:07 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 16:40:07 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><4767F657.9060803@snet.net> Message-ID: <1093684496-1197996110-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-1177793801-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> I have mine at a 7:30 to 8:00 and I can get the filter in there without undoing the slave or steering. Of course the shorter the cannister the better, I use a standard length filter. Lou -----Original Message----- From: John Mitchell Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:33:27 To:im sloane , 6 Pack <6pack at Autox.Team.Net>, "triumphs at autox.team.net" Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Dropping the slave cylinder is the easiest way. Undo 2 bolts and just let it hang down by the hose. When done, bolt it back up and your done. This will not affect the clutch in any way. I do it whenever I change the filter in the canister, which is every other oil change. Of course I never let the oil get very dirty. John Mitchell 76 TR6 P.S. an alternative is to try and flex the drive shaft enough to slip the cannister by. im sloane wrote: > team, > Unless I missed a post, nobody mentioned how to remove the original canister > from the vehicle. This can be a 'neat trick' on a left hand steer car, as the > steering column is on the 'wrong side'. I've removed my steering column once, > but I recall having a devil of a time getting it back on. Someone once > mentioned dropping down the clutch slave, but if my clutch is operating > properly that's not something I'd want to mess with. Those may be the only two > options. _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Dec 18 09:51:55 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:51:55 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <7463145.1197994432469.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> References: <7463145.1197994432469.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> Message-ID: On Tue, 18 Dec 2007, Dr L. Kevin McNelis wrote: > > Robert Lang wrote: Overall, this is a really great upgrade > for TR6. It makes oil changes a snap and with the proper filter (with > anti-drainback valve) your cold startup won't allow the engine to run > dry (which it can do wiith the stock filter). <\snip> > > > So, Robert, what is a "proper" oil filter? I've been running the NAPA > Gold- good enough? Or is something else better? Sure, that's good enough. NAPA Gold 1516 is what I use. The article on the VTR web site pretty much says it all. > Kevin regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From rpeglow at optonline.net Tue Dec 18 12:52:55 2007 From: rpeglow at optonline.net (Bob) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:52:55 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Filters..... References: <7463145.1197994432469.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> Message-ID: <000e01c841af$951dcea0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Some oil filter reading material. http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilterstudy.html Bob 70 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Dr L. Kevin McNelis" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Tuesday, December 18, 2007 8:13 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter > Robert Lang wrote: Overall, this is a really great upgrade > for TR6. It makes oil changes a snap and with the proper filter (with > anti-drainback valve) your cold startup won't allow the engine to run > dry (which it can do wiith the stock filter). <\snip> > > > So, Robert, what is a "proper" oil filter? I've been running the NAPA > Gold- good enough? Or is something else better? > > Kevin > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as rpeglow at optonline.net From lang at isis.mit.edu Tue Dec 18 09:56:53 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 11:56:53 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> Message-ID: Hi, "back in the day", the dealer mechanics would disconnect the fuel pump from the block to make room to remove the canister in an oil change. In fact, on my Dad's TR6, the car died (on several occasions) about 1/4 mile from the dealer because the mechanic "forgot" to re-install the fuel pump. Pull the fuel pump and the filter and canister comes right up past the steering column. If you have an electric fuel pump and a blanking plate in the block, you don't have to do anything! But I still stand on the spin-on being q good upgrade for all the reasons formerly articulated. rml p.s. get a good adapter, the cheap ones have porous castings and will drip oil. --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From mark at bradakis.com Tue Dec 18 10:02:02 2007 From: mark at bradakis.com (Mark J. Bradakis) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 10:02:02 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Filters..... In-Reply-To: <000e01c841af$951dcea0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> References: <7463145.1197994432469.JavaMail.kmcnelis@nmsu.edu> <000e01c841af$951dcea0$23f37b45@gpcorporate.com> Message-ID: <4767FD0A.2030900@bradakis.com> I use Wix 51516 filters for the spin on adapters. I don't know if they have an anti-drainback valve or not, but what difference does it make? With the filter hanging below the adapter, where would the oil drain to? mjb. From im_sloane at hotmail.com Tue Dec 18 10:30:32 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 17:30:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> <4767F657.9060803@snet.net> Message-ID: > "back in the day", the dealer mechanics would disconnect the fuel pump > from the block to make room to remove the canister in an oil change. OK, that sounds only slightly better than removing the entire engine just to change the oil. BTW, (for a couple that missed it), we're talking about removing the original canister housing from the engine compartment, which isn't necessary when just changing the filter element. I just let it hang upside down and drain while the pan is draining. Sloane :) _________________________________________________________________ The best games are on Xbox 360. Click here for a special offer on an Xbox 360 Console. http://www.xbox.com/en-US/hardware/wheretobuy/ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Tue Dec 18 13:23:17 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 12:23:17 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-on Adaptor In-Reply-To: Rick Norris 's message of Tue, 18 Dec 2007 08:43:51 -0600 Message-ID: <5417-47682C35-7699@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Rick---The dealership that sold me my car new asked for my permission to cut a (1-1/4 inch) hole in the inner fender. They claimed it would assist them and anyone else who wanted to have access to the filter bolt. After seeing the results, I can't imagine trying to get to this bolt any other way! So, while it may have been an engineer who recommended this alteration, it seems to have been carried out by dealerships Responding to "oil drain-back" from the original style canister, I wish I could remember the exact amount, having done this test some years ago. I do recall that it wasn't as much as I thought it would be. It's a given that half the canister is below the block cavity, so no drain-back can occur, and the filter element holding much of the upper half in suspension when the engine is not running. And as mjb pointed out, NO drain-back should occur when the whole unit is below the oil exit level. (With the spin-on filters) Dick '73 Rick wrote: Stuart, my '75 has a similar hole in the left fender well and, upon discovering its utility for reaching the stock oil filter, I decided the PO had to have placed it there. I was informed by those far more knowledgeable than I that the well placed hole is standard equipment and designed by an engineer that was on the payroll. In my case, with the car up on jack, I can easily reach the canister to hold it in position for securing from underneath the frame with my right hand while spinning the ratchet with my left. And to think, we often find amusement in the creations of engineers. Rick Norris ______________________________________ From rnorris1 at swbell.net Tue Dec 18 19:18:15 2007 From: rnorris1 at swbell.net (Rick Norris) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 20:18:15 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spin-on Adaptor In-Reply-To: <5417-47682C35-7699@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> References: <5417-47682C35-7699@storefull-3134.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <47687F67.6000304@swbell.net> Thanks, Dick! Just when I thought I had the facts, I learn it ain't necessarily so! Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Rick---The dealership that sold me my car new asked for my permission > to cut a (1-1/4 inch) hole in the inner fender. They claimed it would > assist them and anyone else who wanted to have access to the filter > bolt. After seeing the results, I can't imagine trying to get to this > bolt any other way! > > So, while it may have been an engineer who recommended this alteration, > it seems to have been carried out by dealerships > > Responding to "oil drain-back" from the original style canister, I wish > I could remember the exact amount, having done this test some years ago. > I do recall that it wasn't as much as I thought it would be. It's a > given that half the canister is below the block cavity, so no drain-back > can occur, and the filter element holding much of the upper half in > suspension when the engine is not running. > > And as mjb pointed out, NO drain-back should occur when the whole unit > is below the oil exit level. (With the spin-on filters) > > Dick > '73 > > Rick wrote: > > Stuart, my '75 has a similar hole in the left fender well and, upon > discovering its utility for reaching the stock oil filter, I decided the > PO had to have placed it there. I was informed by those far more > knowledgeable than I that the well placed hole is standard equipment and > designed by an engineer that was on the payroll. In my case, with the > car up on jack, I can easily reach the canister to hold it in position > for securing from underneath the frame with my right hand while spinning > the ratchet with my left. And to think, we often find amusement in the > creations of engineers. > Rick Norris > ______________________________________ From vitop at sbcglobal.net Tue Dec 18 22:51:59 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 23:51:59 -0600 Subject: [6pack] 6 Pack Digest V1 #2336 References: <20071209143610.1991B187A26@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <16d601c84203$45b739b0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Hello: Does anyone have a good front shot of a 74 TR6 engine that shows which bolt the little bracket that hold the fuel line that goes across the front of the engine? It is the line that comes from the fuel pump and makes a right angle goes across the front of the engine and then makes another right angle and goes back to the carbs. On a 74 there is a small clip that has a rubber tube that the line goes through. It gets boltes to either one of the water pump bolts or a thermistat bolt. I thought I had a good picture before I took it apart. The pic didn't come out and it's been too long and my mind is too feeble to remember it. Any help would be appreciated. From apackard68 at comcast.net Tue Dec 18 23:10:19 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Tue, 18 Dec 2007 22:10:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Ratco in two days! Message-ID: <20071219061634.62592187A46@autox.team.net> The trucking company made an appt to drop of my new Ratco frame Thursday around noon. I am working on removing the suspension components off my old frame. I just got the front left completely done, moving on to the right front. Here is the body restoration plan for my TR250. 1. Make new frame a bare minimum rolling chassis. 2. Mount completely stripped body shell on new frame, securing minimally for transport. 3. Take rolling chassis and body to body shop for body repairs. a. Replacement of both rockers and end caps. b. Repair dent in L front wheel well, just below brake MC area. c. Repair and reinforce hood stress points about 6 inches from w/s d. Several other very minor repairs/edge straightening. 4. Mount body on chassis 5. Attach doors and exterior panels 6. Align gaps by all available means a. body mount shims and washers b. oval holes that allow for adjustment 7. Re-brace door openings with body in aligned position 8. Remove doors and exterior panels. 8a. Remove braced body shell from chassis. 9. Have body completely shot-blasted and exterior panels stripped to bare metal (media blast) 10. Return car to b/s for primer over the bare metal 10a. Bring chassis home for restoration of suspension parts (powder coating) 11. Apply Lizard Skin sound deadening and heat resistant material to wheel wells, floors and doors 12. Begin single-stage body color painting on body shell, masking exterior parts a. valances b. rockers c. dash top d. rear deck 13. Paint inside exterior panels 14. Mount doors and exterior panels, align as close as possible (with fender beading) 15. Paint exterior with two-stage paint. 16. Remount body on rolling chassis with restored suspension components, engine and tranny installed 17. Align and secure body to chassis. 18. Paint on hood stripe 19. Transport car home to begin reassembly of car components Can the list help identify obvious flaws in my plan, other than the real risk of damaging my new paint job while reassembling the car? Andy CD6746 L HVDA From lang at isis.mit.edu Wed Dec 19 05:41:40 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 07:41:40 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] Ratco in two days! In-Reply-To: <20071219061634.62592187A46@autox.team.net> References: <20071219061634.62592187A46@autox.team.net> Message-ID: Hi, You forgot step 20: 20: Win every car show in the western hemisphere :-) Looks like a fairly comprehensive list that you have there. I'll go out on a limb and say that I'm probably not the only person on this list that wishes that "we" started with a platform in the condition yours is in (at least from the pix that you posted). Looks like you'll have a sweet car when you're done. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Wed Dec 19 05:45:51 2007 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 04:45:51 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Ratco in two days! In-Reply-To: <20071219061634.62592187A46@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <286539.41809.qm@web43134.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> i didn't see any New Castle anywhere?? cheers, todd --- Andrew Packard wrote: > The trucking company made an appt to drop of my new > Ratco frame Thursday > around noon. I am working on removing the > suspension components off my old > frame. I just got the front left completely done, > moving on to the right > front. > > > > Here is the body restoration plan for my TR250. > > 1. Make new frame a bare minimum rolling chassis. > > 2. Mount completely stripped body shell on new > frame, securing minimally for > transport. > > 3. Take rolling chassis and body to body shop for > body repairs. > > a. Replacement of both rockers and end > caps. > > b. Repair dent in L front wheel well, > just below brake MC area. > > c. Repair and reinforce hood stress > points about 6 inches from > w/s > > d. Several other very minor repairs/edge > straightening. > > 4. Mount body on chassis > > 5. Attach doors and exterior panels > > 6. Align gaps by all available means > > a. body mount shims and washers > > b. oval holes that allow for adjustment > > 7. Re-brace door openings with body in aligned > position > > 8. Remove doors and exterior panels. > > 8a. Remove braced body shell from chassis. > > 9. Have body completely shot-blasted and exterior > panels stripped to bare > metal (media blast) > > 10. Return car to b/s for primer over the bare metal > > 10a. Bring chassis home for restoration of > suspension parts (powder coating) > > 11. Apply Lizard Skin sound deadening and heat > resistant material to wheel > wells, floors and doors > > 12. Begin single-stage body color painting on body > shell, masking exterior > parts > > a. valances > > b. rockers > > c. dash top > > d. rear deck > > 13. Paint inside exterior panels > > 14. Mount doors and exterior panels, align as close > as possible (with > fender beading) > > 15. Paint exterior with two-stage paint. > > 16. Remount body on rolling chassis with restored > suspension components, > engine and tranny installed > > 17. Align and secure body to chassis. > > 18. Paint on hood stripe > > 19. Transport car home to begin reassembly of car > components > > > > Can the list help identify obvious flaws in my plan, > other than the real > risk of damaging my new paint job while reassembling > the car? > > > > Andy > > CD6746 L HVDA > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as red_tr250 at yahoo.com > ____________________________________________________________________________________ Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your home page. http://www.yahoo.com/r/hs From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Dec 19 05:57:12 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 12:57:12 +0000 Subject: [6pack] 6 Pack Digest V1 #2336 In-Reply-To: <16d601c84203$45b739b0$6601a8c0@serverxp> References: <20071209143610.1991B187A26@autox.team.net> <16d601c84203$45b739b0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE496C@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> If you zoom this in you can see the area you are describing on my 74.5- http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/DSC _0024.jpg Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Vito Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 12:52 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] 6 Pack Digest V1 #2336 Hello: Does anyone have a good front shot of a 74 TR6 engine that shows which bolt the little bracket that hold the fuel line that goes across the front of the engine? It is the line that comes from the fuel pump and makes a right angle goes across the front of the engine and then makes another right angle and goes back to the carbs. On a 74 there is a small clip that has a rubber tube that the line goes through. It gets boltes to either one of the water pump bolts or a thermistat bolt. I thought I had a good picture before I took it apart. The pic didn't come out and it's been too long and my mind is too feeble to remember it. Any help would be appreciated. _______________________________________________ From sumton at sbcglobal.net Wed Dec 19 07:53:20 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 08:53:20 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Ratco in two days! References: <20071219061634.62592187A46@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <003401c8424f$151e3550$800101df@garage.local> > Can the list help identify obvious flaws in my plan, other than the real > risk of damaging my new paint job while reassembling the car? still in the throes of an overly extended restoration, i will tell you this. we did the body, engine, suspension, etc, and then sent the car off to paint. years and 3 paint shops later the car is still unfinished in my garage, and, the once beautiful frame, engine, etc are covered in layers and layers of sanding dust. i highly recommend doing all the bodywork first, then mate it when the engine/frame/suspension is done. you will save yourself much cleaning, and, if your luck is as bad as mine, you won't have to hope that you correctly prepared for storage the engine that was built 5 years ago. From apackard68 at comcast.net Wed Dec 19 07:55:51 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 06:55:51 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Ratco in two days! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071219150206.0AE0B1879CE@autox.team.net> Step 20b. While still winning autocross awards . . . Hope you make it out to VTR/Triumphest in CA in 2009. I want to autocross against you and Richard! -----Original Message----- From: Robert Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 4:42 AM To: Andrew Packard Cc: '6pack List' Subject: Re: [6pack] Ratco in two days! Hi, You forgot step 20: 20: Win every car show in the western hemisphere :-) Looks like a fairly comprehensive list that you have there. I'll go out on a limb and say that I'm probably not the only person on this list that wishes that "we" started with a platform in the condition yours is in (at least from the pix that you posted). Looks like you'll have a sweet car when you're done. rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From apackard68 at comcast.net Wed Dec 19 08:01:04 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 07:01:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Ratco in two days! In-Reply-To: <003401c8424f$151e3550$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <20071219150719.642EB187B4E@autox.team.net> That's the type of thing I'm trying to avoid, although I was thinking more about overspray. The only painting I want done with the body on the frame is the hood stripe. Good luck finalizing your car! Andy -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Oliver Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 6:53 AM To: '6pack List' Subject: Re: [6pack] Ratco in two days! > Can the list help identify obvious flaws in my plan, other than the real > risk of damaging my new paint job while reassembling the car? still in the throes of an overly extended restoration, i will tell you this. we did the body, engine, suspension, etc, and then sent the car off to paint. years and 3 paint shops later the car is still unfinished in my garage, and, the once beautiful frame, engine, etc are covered in layers and layers of sanding dust. i highly recommend doing all the bodywork first, then mate it when the engine/frame/suspension is done. you will save yourself much cleaning, and, if your luck is as bad as mine, you won't have to hope that you correctly prepared for storage the engine that was built 5 years ago. _______________________________________________ From vitop at sbcglobal.net Wed Dec 19 08:32:53 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 09:32:53 -0600 Subject: [6pack] water pump install Message-ID: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> Thanks to everyone that sent me photos for the fuel line. They helped a ton. I've got another question for the concours crowd. How was the water pump detailed? Was the pump assembled to the housing with the studs and nuts and then all painted as an assembly? Or are the studs and nuts supposed to show up as zinc plated with no paint? Also, I am assuming that it is best to use some sort of gasket seal for the gasket between the water pump and housing? probably use something on both sides of the gasket? And lastly, what's the best stuff to use? Thanks! From vance.navarrette at intel.com Wed Dec 19 08:57:04 2007 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 07:57:04 -0800 Subject: [6pack] water pump install In-Reply-To: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: Vito: OEM fasteners were plain steel. That's why they rust =:-o I used zinc plated fasteners. If you want the OEM look without the rust, go stainless. Stainless is usually low strength however, so it really only works in in a few places on the motor and is more expensive. Gasket dressing will help prevent leaks, given the miserable state of English gasket technology on the TR6. Permatex Hylomar if you can find it (another lister said it was discontinued) or Permatex NON-HARDENING form-a-gasket. I say non-hardening because if/when it comes time to replace the pump, removal and cleanup is a snap, with no gasket scraping or four letter words. You must use a conventional gasket with the non-hardening stuff, but it sticks to anything and resists gasoline, oil, coolant, etc. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Vito Sent: December 19, 2007 7:33 AM To: 6pack at autox.team.net; triumphs at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] water pump install Thanks to everyone that sent me photos for the fuel line. They helped a ton. I've got another question for the concours crowd. How was the water pump detailed? Was the pump assembled to the housing with the studs and nuts and then all painted as an assembly? Or are the studs and nuts supposed to show up as zinc plated with no paint? Also, I am assuming that it is best to use some sort of gasket seal for the gasket between the water pump and housing? probably use something on both sides of the gasket? And lastly, what's the best stuff to use? Thanks! _______________________________________________ From bratt at sasktel.net Wed Dec 19 09:36:52 2007 From: bratt at sasktel.net (Ed Bratt) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 10:36:52 -0600 Subject: [6pack] water pump install References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Vance: What happened to Permatex Hylomar is told on the British Hylomar site: "Hylomar Ltd in the past has sold a solvent-free version of Universal Blue to Permatex in bulk, which they have repackaged as Permatex Hylomar HPF with our approval. This started at a point when Loctite (the former parent company of Permatex) was Hylomar's US distributor. Since then Loctite was acquired by Henkel, which sold Permatex in a MBO, which was then acquired by ITW, and Hylomar has set up its own US distribution company. Some Permatex HPF may still be available in retail locations, but it is unclear how long stocks will last.. " http://www.hylomar.com/ It appears that Hylomar in Britain quit selling Universal Blue to Permatex and are selling their product through Hylomar USA. The Hylomar USA site lists products and applications of available Hylomar products. http://www.hylomar-usa.com/_resources/_html/products.html Ed Bratt Regina, Saskatchewan 1976 TR6 ----- Original Message ----- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: "Vito" ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 9:57 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] water pump install From triosan at gmail.com Wed Dec 19 11:27:47 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 10:27:47 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Convertible top install question Message-ID: <8cbd782d0712191027w37b23ae5re2f03e786de709ed@mail.gmail.com> I am replacing a ratty top on a 74.5 TR6. Want to know which, if any, of the seals, velcro etc. shown in the Moss catalog I need to buy [total comes to 140 or so for everything]. Is the front seal that mates with the windshield reusable, or does it get destroyed when removed? Am having a professional shop do the install, so want to take all the needed parts to them. Thanks, -- Chuck Arnold From triosan at gmail.com Wed Dec 19 11:54:21 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 10:54:21 -0800 Subject: [6pack] water pump install In-Reply-To: <001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> <001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version [higher adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling! On Dec 19, 2007 8:36 AM, Ed Bratt wrote: > Vance: > > What happened to Permatex Hylomar is told on the British Hylomar site: > > "Hylomar Ltd in the past has sold a solvent-free version of Universal Blue > to Permatex in bulk, which they have repackaged as Permatex Hylomar HPF > with > our approval. This started at a point when Loctite (the former parent > company of Permatex) was Hylomar's US distributor. Since then Loctite was > acquired by Henkel, which sold Permatex in a MBO, which was then acquired > by > ITW, and Hylomar has set up its own US distribution company. Some Permatex > HPF may still be available in retail locations, but it is unclear how long > stocks will last.. " > > http://www.hylomar.com/ > > It appears that Hylomar in Britain quit selling Universal Blue to Permatex > and are selling their product through Hylomar USA. > > The Hylomar USA site lists products and applications of available Hylomar > products. > > http://www.hylomar-usa.com/_resources/_html/products.html > > Ed Bratt > Regina, Saskatchewan > 1976 TR6 > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Navarrette, Vance" > To: "Vito" ; <6pack at autox.team.net>; > > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 9:57 AM > Subject: Re: [6pack] water pump install > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Wed Dec 19 13:22:22 2007 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 12:22:22 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] TR6 Convertible top install question In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0712191027w37b23ae5re2f03e786de709ed@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <197799.925.qm@web43140.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Chuck, No seals "should" get destroyed when a new top is installed. You'll have to evaluate the condition of the seals. I would suggest replacing the webbing though. Cheers, Todd --- Chuck Arnold wrote: > I am replacing a ratty top on a 74.5 TR6. Want to > know which, if any, of > the seals, velcro etc. shown in the Moss catalog I > need to buy [total comes > to 140 or so for everything]. Is the front seal > that mates with the > windshield reusable, or does it get destroyed when > removed? Am having a > professional shop do the install, so want to take > all the needed parts to > them. > Thanks, > > -- > Chuck Arnold ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Wed Dec 19 16:55:24 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 23:55:24 -0000 Subject: [6pack] More updates on the Triumph Trans-AmeriCa Charity Drive website Message-ID: <003f01c8429a$a03edbd0$0201a8c0@Bevan> The website has undergone further updates as of 19 Dec 2007 with some new pix and revamped pages. In case you missed our last posting, the Trust has been given - yes, given - a concours (modified) 1978 Spitfire to UK spec. This will be used as an initial fundraiser and eventually disposed of as a raffle prize. You can see initial pix of the car by clicking on the website link below. Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From trsix74 at comcast.net Wed Dec 19 18:34:07 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 20:34:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] water pump install In-Reply-To: <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp><001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <001901c842a8$6b53c490$6601a8c0@Robert> Snip> Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version [higher adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling Lire, Pesos, Dinare, Rubels or English Pounds? Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From samuelsma at aol.com Wed Dec 19 19:14:18 2007 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 21:14:18 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fuel pump Message-ID: <8CA10C52965F348-F78-34DD@WEBMAIL-DG03> Listers: No sooner did I get my carburetor plumbing straightened out, when I noticed a gas smell under the hood.? I found a leak coming from the fuel pump.? After much examination with a light and a mirror, I isolated the leak to the place where a bolt (10 mm) holds down the dome at the top of the pump.? The leak was around the bolt head.? Tightening the bolt just made the leak much worse.? When I removed the bolt and the dome, gas started pouring out the dome from the fuel line.? I looked for a seal between the bolt head and the dome, but there was just a flat metal washer.? So I added a black rubber O-ring under the washer, and the leak stopped immediately.? The outside of the pump is now bone-dry.? Is this solution OK? Michael '76 Tahiti blue CF57044U ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Wed Dec 19 20:25:47 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 22:25:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Do You Have? Message-ID: <003b01c842b8$054b8470$210110ac@bobspc> OK..........I need listers who have BOTH Herman's Toyota 5 speed transmission conversion AND Goodparts' Nissan differential upgrade. You have to have BOTH to respond and..........you need to remember! Did you have to shorten your driveshaft to make it all work? And by shorten I mean CUT a couple of inches off. If you did or didn't, what make model and year Triumph do you have and what, if anything, did you do to your driveshaft. I've heard both nothing and I cut 2" off. Oh yea....and whats the ratio on your diff? I've gotten mixed answers on this from folks who have that combination from Herman himself and Richard Good. So far there doesnt seem to be one answer. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM From apackard68 at comcast.net Wed Dec 19 21:04:34 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Wed, 19 Dec 2007 20:04:34 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Do You Have? In-Reply-To: <003b01c842b8$054b8470$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <20071220041049.C1E8C187A4C@autox.team.net> I have both. I did nothing to the driveshaft and I don't use Herman's lock ring at the front splines of the shaft. I had the driveshaft balanced without the ring attached, so when I attach it, the shaft spins off center putting uneven pressure on the rear tranny seal causing oil to leak out. I have the 3.69:1 diff but had a 3.92:1 before I changed. The higher ratio one did not allow the most benefit from the overdrive tranny. -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:26 PM To: 'Triumphs'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Do You Have? OK..........I need listers who have BOTH Herman's Toyota 5 speed transmission conversion AND Goodparts' Nissan differential upgrade. You have to have BOTH to respond and..........you need to remember! Did you have to shorten your driveshaft to make it all work? And by shorten I mean CUT a couple of inches off. If you did or didn't, what make model and year Triumph do you have and what, if anything, did you do to your driveshaft. I've heard both nothing and I cut 2" off. Oh yea....and whats the ratio on your diff? I've gotten mixed answers on this from folks who have that combination from Herman himself and Richard Good. So far there doesnt seem to be one answer. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.503 / Virus Database: 269.17.4/1189 - Release Date: 12/18/2007 9:40 PM From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Dec 20 06:17:37 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 08:17:37 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Do You Have? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <004101c8430a$b5700310$210110ac@bobspc> Mike, I'll definitely go with what Herman recommends. I'm just curious as to what other folks have experienced. And I'll share the results with Herman. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:triumphs-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of MMoore8425 at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 11:27 PM To: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org; triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [TR] Do You Have? I sure would trust Herman on this one. He has worked on these things a long time. He worries about what happens if you have TWO slip joints in series, which you will have. He doesn't want the transmission to get screwed up by a drive shaft bouncing back and forth with no restraint.It must be annoying when someone else's mod affects what your mod is supposed to be. Best, Mike Moore **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org Triumphs at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007 7:37 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007 7:37 PM From brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca Thu Dec 20 08:54:15 2007 From: brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca (Bruce Simms) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 07:54:15 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Reply from Vance Navarette on Sway Bar Thread F/up - Good info Message-ID: <869921.93864.qm@web60614.mail.yahoo.com> Thank you for this Vance. This will go on my to-do (sometimes wish) list. A good old fashion Merry Christmas to all. Bruce Simms ----- Original Message ---- From: "Navarrette, Vance" To: Bruce Simms Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 10:20:09 AM Subject: RE: f/up on sway bar thread Bruce: Either one will work, as they are both a reasonable size. I tend to be on the conservative side as I have done many upgrades that I later found harsh or objectionable for some reason. I had a Pontiac Fiero with a factory front bar but no rear bar. I installed the rear bar (Addco recommended upgrading the front bar at the same time, which I did not do) and found it to be very sweet indeed. A friend who had a stock Fiero was amazed at the change in cornering forces a simple change like that made. Given your upgrades already, I would go with the 3/4" bar. If you find it tends toward over steer you can remove it, or simply replace the stock front with the Addco bar. My feeling is that it will be very close to neutral with the 3/4". A car with a low center of gravity and neutral handling should generate 1G of lateral force, so normally you run out of courage before the car does. If your suspension were stock, I would be inclined towards the 5/8" bar for the TR4A, assuming it can be made to fit (it should as the differences are minor indeed). Remember that you want 1/2 of your roll stiffness to come from the springs, and 1/2 from the bar. Given your upgraded springs the larger bar will probably be the one that works best. Get ready for an awesome change in handling. Vance From: Bruce Simms [mailto:brucesimms2003 at yahoo.ca] Sent: December 18, 2007 2:27 PM To: Navarrette, Vance; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: f/up on sway bar thread Hi Vince: I'm following up on your detailed email to Bob Danielson re sway bars. Surprised it didn't generate any responses. Okay, the vendors advise upgrading front bar at same time you add a rear bar to keep a balance, so I never got too ambitious about it. You're recommending something different, add a rear bar and keep the stock front bar. Go for neutral handling, but understand what that means. Addco has 3/4 bar for TR6 and TR250 and 5/8 bar for TR4A, not sure if Tr4A rear bar will fit the 6. I have Spax adjustable up front, Munroe conversion in rear and TRF semi-comp springs and poly bushes all round. Stock front bar. Recommendation for rear bar? Bruce Simms 73 TR6 Daily driver sometimes used for spirited fun. Be smarter than spam. See how smart SpamGuard is at giving junk email the boot with the All-new Yahoo! Mail. Click on Options in Mail and switch to New Mail today or register for free at http://mail.yahoo.ca From vance.navarrette at intel.com Thu Dec 20 08:55:45 2007 From: vance.navarrette at intel.com (Navarrette, Vance) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 07:55:45 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Fuel pump In-Reply-To: <8CA10C52965F348-F78-34DD@WEBMAIL-DG03> References: <8CA10C52965F348-F78-34DD@WEBMAIL-DG03> Message-ID: Michael: Your fuel pump has packed it in. Either replace the entire pump or get a rebuild kit and overhaul it. What is likely to occur next is gasoline leaking into the crankcase and diluting your oil. Accelerated engine wear and a fire hazard are the results. Vance -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+vance.navarrette=intel.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of samuelsma at aol.com Sent: December 19, 2007 6:14 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] Fuel pump Listers: No sooner did I get my carburetor plumbing straightened out, when I noticed a gas smell under the hood.? I found a leak coming from the fuel pump.? After much examination with a light and a mirror, I isolated the leak to the place where a bolt (10 mm) holds down the dome at the top of the pump.? The leak was around the bolt head.? Tightening the bolt just made the leak much worse.? When I removed the bolt and the dome, gas started pouring out the dome from the fuel line.? I looked for a seal between the bolt head and the dome, but there was just a flat metal washer.? So I added a black rubber O-ring under the washer, and the leak stopped immediately.? The outside of the pump is now bone-dry.? Is this solution OK? Michael '76 Tahiti blue CF57044U ________________________________________________________________________ From vitop at sbcglobal.net Thu Dec 20 13:05:05 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 14:05:05 -0600 Subject: [6pack] water pump install References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp><001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> <001901c842a8$6b53c490$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <001901c84343$9e1b7ad0$6601a8c0@serverxp> WoW! Well, I looked on the internet for some and i found that they distribute it out of Cypress TX. (don't know if it's the main one in the US or just a distributor), but i just opened an account with them so i can buy it cheaper. if anyone wants any let me know. I have to go and pick it up so i want to get a bunch together first, but $30 for the racing version plus shipping. I have no idea what's going to be the cheapest way to ship it. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Robert Liam Gannon" To: "'Chuck Arnold'" ; "'Ed Bratt'" Cc: ; "'Vito'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:34 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] water pump install > Snip> Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version > [higher > adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling > > Lire, Pesos, Dinare, Rubels or English Pounds? > Robert L. Gannon > http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From apackard68 at comcast.net Thu Dec 20 13:20:00 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (apackard68 at comcast.net) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 12:20:00 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Ratco is here! Message-ID: <200712202020.lBKKK0PR001489@upsa-web108.ofoto.com> Tony has a lot of good pics of the frame at Rat-co.com, but they seem to look better from my garage for some reason. You're invited to view these photos online at KODAK Gallery! Just click on View Photos to get started. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.9qamuzfb&x=0&y=-tnq6p If you'd like to save this album, just sign in, or if you're new to the Gallery, create a free account. Once you've signed in, you'll be able to view this album whenever you want and order Kodak prints of your favorite photos. Enjoy! Instructions: Click view photos to begin. If you're an existing member you'll be asked to sign in. If not, you can join the Gallery for free. http://www.kodakgallery.com/Register.jsp Questions? Visit http://help.kodakgallery.com. ------------------------------------------------------------ The KODAK Gallery Customer Service Team Phone: 800-360-9098 / 512-651-9770 Outside of the US and Canada ------------------------------------------------------------ If you cannot see the links above, copy and paste the following URL directly into your browser: http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.9qamuzfb&x=0&y=-tnq6p From alistair.hewitt at gmail.com Thu Dec 20 14:47:50 2007 From: alistair.hewitt at gmail.com (Alistair Hewitt) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 16:47:50 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] water pump install In-Reply-To: <001901c84343$9e1b7ad0$6601a8c0@serverxp> References: <187501c84254$6cc64b80$6601a8c0@serverxp> <001801c8425d$5c95c4d0$6401a8c0@willec9tf0npwk> <8cbd782d0712191054t5209ea4fua52b7d2c1ece973c@mail.gmail.com> <001901c842a8$6b53c490$6601a8c0@Robert> <001901c84343$9e1b7ad0$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: You can get Blue Hylomar pretty cheap on ebay.co.uk. I bought three large tubes last winter from a guy who had similar auctions going quite often at the time. Total price with shipping was about $15 and took less than a week to arrive. Might be worth a look? Cheers Alistair On Dec 20, 2007 3:05 PM, Vito wrote: > WoW! Well, I looked on the internet for some and i found that they > distribute it out of Cypress TX. (don't know if it's the main one in the > US > or just a distributor), but i just opened an account with them so i can > buy > it cheaper. if anyone wants any let me know. I have to go and pick it up > so > i want to get a bunch together first, but $30 for the racing version plus > shipping. I have no idea what's going to be the cheapest way to ship it. > > > > > ----- Original Message ----- > From: "Robert Liam Gannon" > To: "'Chuck Arnold'" ; "'Ed Bratt'" > Cc: ; "'Vito'" ; > <6pack at autox.team.net> > Sent: Wednesday, December 19, 2007 7:34 PM > Subject: RE: [6pack] water pump install > > > > Snip> Wow, just ordered one three ounce tube of the "racing" version > > [higher > > adhesion]. Cost 42 including handling > > > > Lire, Pesos, Dinare, Rubels or English Pounds? > > Robert L. Gannon > > http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > This list supported in part by the Vintage Triumph Register > http://www.vtr.org > > > Triumphs at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/triumphs > > http://www.team.net/archive From rclark at robertsonclark.com Thu Dec 20 14:54:50 2007 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 13:54:50 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Ratco is here! In-Reply-To: <200712202020.lBKKK0PR001489@upsa-web108.ofoto.com> Message-ID: Andy, The comparison photo between the original and Ratco is particularly interesting. Are the "Ratco" cutouts functional in any manner. Any concerns about them allowing crude to build up inside the frame? Do you mind telling what the shipping costs were to California? Bob Clark '69 TR6 Tony has a lot of good pics of the frame at Rat-co.com, but they seem to look better from my garage for some reason. From N197TR4 at cs.com Thu Dec 20 15:41:32 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 17:41:32 EST Subject: [6pack] Ratco is here! Message-ID: 6 Pack List I am extremely impressed with what Tony V. has done. I went to VTR's Valley Forge Convention expressly to meet him and look at the frames. (and Irv Korey) One of the TR4 Vintage Racers near San Francisco took delivery last winter and was racing by spring....and was impressed with the construction and racing results (see VTR "TVT" article by Gary Horstkorta.) This chassis would have been under my AMBRO-Triumph Project in Wyoming at WYOTECH college, if it wasnt so far along to retrofit it. Regards, Joe A > Andy, > > The comparison photo between the original and Ratco is particularly > interesting. Are the "Ratco" cutouts functional in any manner. Any > concerns about them allowing crude to build up inside the frame? Do you > mind telling what the shipping costs were to California? > > Bob Clark > '69 TR6 > > From sakirsis at consolidated.net Thu Dec 20 16:23:00 2007 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 17:23:00 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Address in Cypress, Tx. Message-ID: <001e01c8435f$45b20d70$6601a8c0@MomandDad> I live very near Cypress, could you give me a name and address for the distributor? Would love to pick some up. Thanks, Steve Kirsis '70 and '76 TR-6's. From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Thu Dec 20 18:09:21 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 20:09:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5 Speed/Nissan Diff Message-ID: <000001c8436e$2049f340$210110ac@bobspc> Last night I posted a question about who had the Toyota 5 speed and Nissan diff combo and if they had to shorten their drive shaft. I got a lot of off list responses and no one had shortened their drive shaft except for one person. This morning I had a 30 minute call with Herman to understand (or try to) why he now says it HAS to be shortened. Basically, there are 2 slips in this set up: Slip 1 is the flange on the rear of the tranny and Slip 2 is in the drive shaft. Both slips can move in and out, effectively lengthening or shortening the overall length. If the tranny flange is moved in too far it will damage the rear seal over time causing it to leak and eventually leak bad enough to cause total fluid loss. It's happened to one owner already while on a drive & destroyed the tranny. If the flange moves out too far (more then 7/8" from the seal) it causes a whipping action which will wreck the tranny bearings. Herman says to have the driveshaft cut to length, remove the slip and end up with a solid drive shaft with no clamp. I'm only the messenger so If you have questions, you might want to contact Herman directly. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.5/1190 - Release Date: 12/19/2007 7:37 PM From samuelsma at aol.com Thu Dec 20 19:15:23 2007 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 21:15:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 article Message-ID: <8CA118E7A69E0BB-594-1ADE@FWM-D02.sysops.aol.com> If any of you can get a hold of Hemming's Sports and Exotic Car magazine's January issue, check out Mike Cook's column on page 39.? It is entitled, "Remembering the TR6."? It is an interesting reminiscence of TR6 ownership back in the day, when the author worked for Triumph/British Leyland.? Relative to its contemporary competition, Cook describes the car as a real highway cruiser and as a particularly safe and structurally sound car.? I guess time marches on... Michael '76 Tahiti blue ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From apackard68 at comcast.net Thu Dec 20 20:08:42 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 19:08:42 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Ratco is here! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071221031458.E4C521879CA@autox.team.net> I didn't know about the RATCO cutouts until I received the frame. There's no bottom to any of the parts where the cutouts are, so it's not as if dirt could be let in to collect in an area. You wrote "crude" instead of "crud", but maybe you were thinking about leaking oil . . . I opted for the powder coating with foam injection in all the tube sections, so there is no path to get inside the frame. Tony was able to work some magic and ship to CA for $575. Andy -----Original Message----- From: Robert N. Clark [mailto:rclark at robertsonclark.com] Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:55 PM To: apackard68 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Ratco is here! Andy, The comparison photo between the original and Ratco is particularly interesting. Are the "Ratco" cutouts functional in any manner. Any concerns about them allowing crude to build up inside the frame? Do you mind telling what the shipping costs were to California? Bob Clark '69 TR6 Tony has a lot of good pics of the frame at Rat-co.com, but they seem to look better from my garage for some reason. From stan.foster at hp.com Thu Dec 20 20:26:15 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 03:26:15 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Ratco is here! In-Reply-To: <20071221031458.E4C521879CA@autox.team.net> References: <20071221031458.E4C521879CA@autox.team.net> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4D5D@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> The New TRIUMPH Trf Ratco vIctoria british qUantum Moss goodParts Herman That is a great xmas present Andy, we should all be so fortunate. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Andrew Packard Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 10:09 PM To: 'Robert N. Clark'; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Ratco is here! I didn't know about the RATCO cutouts until I received the frame. There's no bottom to any of the parts where the cutouts are, so it's not as if dirt could be let in to collect in an area. You wrote "crude" instead of "crud", but maybe you were thinking about leaking oil . . . I opted for the powder coating with foam injection in all the tube sections, so there is no path to get inside the frame. Tony was able to work some magic and ship to CA for $575. Andy -----Original Message----- From: Robert N. Clark [mailto:rclark at robertsonclark.com] Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:55 PM To: apackard68 at comcast.net; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Ratco is here! Andy, The comparison photo between the original and Ratco is particularly interesting. Are the "Ratco" cutouts functional in any manner. Any concerns about them allowing crude to build up inside the frame? Do you mind telling what the shipping costs were to California? Bob Clark '69 TR6 Tony has a lot of good pics of the frame at Rat-co.com, but they seem to look better from my garage for some reason. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as stan.foster at hp.com From apackard68 at comcast.net Thu Dec 20 20:24:16 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Thu, 20 Dec 2007 19:24:16 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Ratco is here! In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071221033033.0AAA9187B5D@autox.team.net> I talked quite a bit about the frame with Tony during the ordering and building process. He made it very clear that he builds the frame to original specs (see your Bentley manual for those) but our frames, as many as 40 years old, have likely sagged and taken the body with it. My restoration plan includes mounting the unrestored body on the new frame, attaching the exterior panels and shimming the body for correct gaps, and then re-bracing the doors after the new adjustments. We'll then remove the body so I can restore all of the suspension parts while the body repairs are taking place. I'll wheel the totally restored body back to the body shop to have the restored body lowered on to it, hopefully returning to the aligned holes from our initial effort. Stay tuned for more play-by-play over the next few months. Andy _____ From: Pmschuessor at aol.com [mailto:Pmschuessor at aol.com] Sent: Thursday, December 20, 2007 1:39 PM To: apackard68 at comcast.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Ratco is here! Hi I have heard that the ratco frames have some problems with the fit of the frame. I hope this is not the case and I wondered if you would comment once you fit the frame to the body. Thanks, Paul M Schuessler Pmschuessor at aol.com _____ See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter. From janne.andersson at orebro.se Fri Dec 21 02:01:11 2007 From: janne.andersson at orebro.se (janne.andersson at orebro.se) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 10:01:11 +0100 Subject: [6pack] =?iso-8859-1?q?Janne_Andersson_=E4r_inte_p=E5_kontoret=2E?= Message-ID: Jag kommer att vara borta fren kontoret fr.o.m. 2007-12-19 och kommer inte tillbaka fvrrdn 2008-01-07. From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Dec 21 03:47:04 2007 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 05:47:04 EST Subject: [6pack] TR6 article Message-ID: In a message dated 12/20/2007 9:15:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, samuelsma at aol.com writes: If any of you can get a hold of Hemming's Sports and Exotic Car magazine's January issue, check out Mike Cook's column on page 39.? It is entitled, "Remembering the TR6."? It is an interesting reminiscence of TR6 ownership back in the day, when the author worked for Triumph/British Leyland.? Relative to its contemporary competition, Cook describes the car as a real highway cruiser and as a particularly safe and structurally sound car.? I guess time marches on... Michael '76 Tahiti blue ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) Michael, Would that be January 2007 ? I humbly and modestly admit that my French Blue '75 was previously owned by Mike. It was well-maintained and is still in great shape. He bought it from the original owner, Gary Cooper, who was the British Leyland Southeast Zone Sales Manager in Florida, back in the day. Thanks, Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From samuelsma at aol.com Fri Dec 21 04:20:00 2007 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 06:20:00 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 article In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8CA11DA8F257D2D-594-26F5@FWM-D02.sysops.aol.com> Vic: That would be January, 2008 (the current issue).? Mike Cook mentions that particular car in a lengthy paragraph.? He remembers it fondly! Michael -----Original Message----- From: Vsnively at aol.com To: SamuelsMA at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 5:47 am Subject: Re: [6pack] TR6 article In a message dated 12/20/2007 9:15:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, samuelsma at aol.com writes: If any of you can get a hold of Hemming's Sports and Exotic Car magazine's January issue, check out Mike Cook's column on page 39.? It is entitled, "Remembering the TR6."? It is an interesting reminiscence of TR6 ownership back in the day, when the author worked for Triumph/British Leyland.? Relative to its contemporary competition, Cook describes the car as a real highway cruiser and as a particularly safe and structurally sound car.? I guess time marches on... Michael '76 Tahiti blue ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever.? Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net? http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as vsnively at aol.com ? ? Michael, ? ? Would that be January 2007 ? ? I humbly and modestly admit that my French Blue '75 was previously owned by Mike. It was well-maintained and is still in great shape. He bought it from the original owner, Gary Cooper, who was the British Leyland Southeast Zone Sales Manager in Florida, back in the day. ? Thanks, Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter. ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From whitetr6 at gmail.com Fri Dec 21 09:28:54 2007 From: whitetr6 at gmail.com (Mark) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:28:54 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 article In-Reply-To: <8CA11DA8F257D2D-594-26F5@FWM-D02.sysops.aol.com> References: <8CA11DA8F257D2D-594-26F5@FWM-D02.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <1f81f7e00712210828w26d8ec17s6ae1a4d0379487c6@mail.gmail.com> Vic, that's pretty cool. I likely have seen that very car back when it was Mike's if it was parked at the office in Leonia at that time. My uncle John, who worked with Mike at BL at the same time also has a fun story about an accidental switcheroo involving Alan Alda's car. Seems John and Mr. Alda had the same exact color & year TR6 in the shop at the same time. Alan came to pick his up, and the shop gave him the wrong car. When he realized it at home, he got a hold of the shop, who put him in touch with John. He then drove Alan's car to his house where they switched and had a nice dinner together. These old stories of Triumphs in America are priceless to me. Mark Creamer 76 TR6 White/Chestnut CF53032UO From stuartt at tlthompson.com Fri Dec 21 10:09:22 2007 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:09:22 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320> Fellow Listers: Thanks to all who responded for the great tips & advice. I have not yet changed over to the spin-on adapter but do have a question. Why do I always receive an o-ring with my original canister type filter element? I've never had to use the o-ring before and it never leaks. Does it depend on year model? I'm just curious as to why I always receive the o-ring along with the filter element. Thanks & Merry Christmas! Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Dec 21 10:15:42 2007 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 12:15:42 EST Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Message-ID: In a message dated 12/21/2007 12:09:35 PM Eastern Standard Time, stuartt at tlthompson.com writes: Fellow Listers: Thanks to all who responded for the great tips & advice. I have not yet changed over to the spin-on adapter but do have a question. Why do I always receive an o-ring with my original canister type filter element? I've never had to use the o-ring before and it never leaks. Does it depend on year model? I'm just curious as to why I always receive the o-ring along with the filter element. Thanks & Merry Christmas! Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) Stuart, I think it's an implied rule / law that seals should always be changed when opportunity presents itself. I work in an industrial mechanical field, we always recommend replacement of any elastomeric component. The main reason is compression set. The seal compresses and remains in that state the longer it's compressed. This could result in a leak if it's disrupted. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Dec 21 10:18:29 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:18:29 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <1934109875-1198257614-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-250788982-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Stuart, Its a square crossection (round) ring right? You're supposed to change it to get a fresh, non-compressed seal for the cannister. You've been very fortunate. Lou -----Original Message----- From: "Stuart Thompson" Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:09:22 To:"6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net> Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Fellow Listers: Thanks to all who responded for the great tips & advice. I have not yet changed over to the spin-on adapter but do have a question. Why do I always receive an o-ring with my original canister type filter element? I've never had to use the o-ring before and it never leaks. Does it depend on year model? I'm just curious as to why I always receive the o-ring along with the filter element. Thanks & Merry Christmas! Stuart Thompson http://www.triumphowners.com/1069 _______________________________________________ Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as lfm614 at aol.com From stuartt at tlthompson.com Fri Dec 21 10:41:42 2007 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:41:42 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320> <1934109875-1198257614-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-250788982-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Message-ID: <009401c843f8$bf858c50$7407f746@Dell320> > Its a square crossection (round) ring right? Yes >You're supposed to change it to get a fresh, non-compressed seal for the >cannister. I am?? >You've been very fortunate. I'll say! The people at the oil & lube shop have tried to install it before but it always leaked. They take it out and it stops leaking. I have never used one and it hasn't leaked a drop of oil (from the canister) in almost 5 years of ownership. I'll take a closer look next time and see what I am missing. Stuart Thompson From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Dec 21 10:47:10 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:47:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <009401c843f8$bf858c50$7407f746@Dell320> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320> <1934109875-1198257614-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-250788982-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <009401c843f8$bf858c50$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4E2B@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> A common error is to not realize that there is already a seal in that cavity and try and insert a second one. That is guaranteed to leak. If you are getting leaks after adding the seal, triple check that there is not already a seal in there, remove it and use the new seal. The easiest way to check is to poke it with a sharp instrument, you should hit metal. If not, it is probably an old petrified seal. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 12:42 PM To: lfm614 at aol.com Cc: 6 Pack list Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter > Its a square crossection (round) ring right? Yes >You're supposed to change it to get a fresh, non-compressed seal for the >cannister. I am?? >You've been very fortunate. I'll say! The people at the oil & lube shop have tried to install it before but it always leaked. They take it out and it stops leaking. I have never used one and it hasn't leaked a drop of oil (from the canister) in almost 5 years of ownership. I'll take a closer look next time and see what I am missing. Stuart Thompson _______________________________________________ From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Dec 21 12:01:37 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 19:01:37 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: <009401c843f8$bf858c50$7407f746@Dell320> References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320> <1934109875-1198257614-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-250788982-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <009401c843f8$bf858c50$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: Hey! That's a great tip. Just remove the oil filter seal and it'll stop leaking!! (haha) I'm just picking on you Stuart. You have been lucky. That bugger is difficult to get out. I can't imagine letting an oil change place change the oil in my Six, but I'm anal about it. I let it drain for a week. If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm not sure I could describe. :) Happy first day of Winter on Saturday. Half way back to Top-down season. Sloane :o) 69-Six I have never used one and it hasn't > leaked a drop> of oil (from the canister) in almost 5 years of ownership.> > I'll take a closer look next time and see what I am missing.> > Stuart Thompson> _______________________________________________> _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 From Vsnively at aol.com Fri Dec 21 12:08:23 2007 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 14:08:23 EST Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Message-ID: In a message dated 12/21/2007 2:03:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, im_sloane at hotmail.com writes: Hey! That's a great tip. Just remove the oil filter seal and it'll stop leaking!! (haha) I'm just picking on you Stuart. You have been lucky. That bugger is difficult to get out. I can't imagine letting an oil change place change the oil in my Six, but I'm anal about it. I let it drain for a week. If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm not sure I could describe. :) Happy first day of Winter on Saturday. Half way back to Top-down season. Sloane :o) 69-Six I have never used one and it hasn't > leaked a drop> of oil (from the canister) in almost 5 years of ownership.> > I'll take a closer look next time and see what I am missing.> > Stuart Thompson> _______________________________________________> _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) I stab it with a utility knife blade or o-ring / dental pick. **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From k6na at cts.com Fri Dec 21 12:16:41 2007 From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:16:41 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071221111256.05a375b0@cts.com> At 11:08 AM 12/21/2007, you wrote: >In a message dated 12/21/2007 2:03:42 PM Eastern Standard Time, >im_sloane at hotmail.com writes: > >Hey! That's a great tip. Just remove the oil filter seal >If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably >use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm >not sure I could describe. :) Best thing I've found is a straight dental pick. Matter of fact, a dental pick is one of the most important things on my bench... for a zillion things. Glenn/San Diego 74.5s From vitop at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 21 12:24:38 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:24:38 -0600 Subject: [6pack] water pump install Message-ID: <06a701c84407$2139e000$6601a8c0@serverxp> i am going crazy trying to figure out where my A/C brackets go. Does someone have some good pics of how the A/C brackets get mounted to the engine block? Especially the hard to see lower brackets that mount to the bottom of the compressor? I also need some pics of where and how the little fanbelt pulley gets mounted. Any help at all would be extremely appreciated. I think my top bracket (the main A/C bracket) is an unusual one. If anyone has had any copies made of original brackets or has an orignal to sell, please let me know. If anyone has one off the car that they could spare for a few weeks, I'd like to get one copied. Or if the owner of the bracket would rather not send it out and has someone that can make a good copy I'd be happy to pay for one. From vitop at sbcglobal.net Fri Dec 21 12:26:00 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:26:00 -0600 Subject: [6pack] A/C bracket installation Message-ID: <06b301c84407$52510380$6601a8c0@serverxp> I am going crazy trying to figure out where my A/C brackets go. Does someone have some good pics of how the A/C brackets get mounted to the engine block? Especially the hard to see lower brackets that mount to the bottom of the compressor? I also need some pics of where and how the little fanbelt pulley gets mounted. Any help at all would be extremely appreciated. I think my top bracket (the main A/C bracket) is an unusual one. If anyone has had any copies made of original brackets or has an orignal to sell, please let me know. If anyone has one off the car that they could spare for a few weeks, I'd like to get one copied. Or if the owner of the bracket would rather not send it out and has someone that can make a good copy I'd be happy to pay for one. From stuartt at tlthompson.com Fri Dec 21 12:30:30 2007 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:30:30 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320><1934109875-1198257614-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-250788982-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> <009401c843f8$bf858c50$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <00eb01c84407$f2834c50$7407f746@Dell320> That's okay, I've done many ignorant things in my time when it comes to old cars, motorcycles, boats, etc... It's supposed to be 73 * in Dallas today. I'll drive up to my friends garage (he has a lift) and will replace the seal myself. Thanks to this list I now know something very important that I should have known before now. It's always the simple things! Stuart Hey! That's a great tip. Just remove the oil filter seal and it'll stop leaking!! (haha) I'm just picking on you Stuart. You have been lucky. That bugger is difficult to get out. I can't imagine letting an oil change place change the oil in my Six, but I'm anal about it. I let it drain for a week. If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm not sure I could describe. :) From rclark at robertsonclark.com Fri Dec 21 12:40:55 2007 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:40:55 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: I have to admit that I have been in Stuart's position as well but if it doesn't leak when it goes back together, why mess with it? Bob Clark '69 TR6 Hey! That's a great tip. Just remove the oil filter seal and it'll stop leaking!! (haha) I'm just picking on you Stuart. You have been lucky. That bugger is difficult to get out. I can't imagine letting an oil change place change the oil in my Six, but I'm anal about it. I let it drain for a week. If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm not sure I could describe. :) Happy first day of Winter on Saturday. Half way back to Top-down season. Sloane :o) 69-Six I have never used one and it hasn't > leaked a drop> of oil (from the canister) in almost 5 years of ownership.> > I'll take a closer look next time and see what I am missing.> > Stuart Thompson> _______________________________________________> From tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org Fri Dec 21 12:51:50 2007 From: tgeiger at shoalsbritishcars.org (Terry Geiger) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:51:50 -0600 Subject: [6pack] A/C bracket installation References: <06b301c84407$52510380$6601a8c0@serverxp> Message-ID: <001601c8440a$eda73860$041e14ac@aitinc.local> Here is the installation I went through on my TR6: http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/technical/technical.htm Terry Geiger '74 Triumph TR6 | '63 Triumph Herald | '70 MGBGT | '84 Mercedes 300D Diesel http://www.shoalsbritishcars.org/ ----- Original Message ----- From: "Vito" To: <6pack at autox.team.net>; Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 1:26 PM Subject: [6pack] A/C bracket installation >I am going crazy trying to figure out where my A/C brackets go. > > Does someone have some good pics of how the A/C brackets get mounted to > the > engine block? Especially the hard to see lower brackets that mount to the > bottom of the compressor? I also need some pics of where and how the > little > fanbelt pulley gets mounted. > > Any help at all would be extremely appreciated. From lfm614 at aol.com Fri Dec 21 13:06:01 2007 From: lfm614 at aol.com (lfm614 at aol.com) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 20:06:01 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter Message-ID: <1884662669-1198267666-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-521819742-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry> Well I generally believe that but in this case not. Before I had my spin on, I had one of these little jewels burst at 70 mph spraying oil on a hot block. Luckily I only turned into a fogger and not a fireball. Lou ------Original Message------ From: Robert N. Clark To: Vsnively at aol.com To: im_sloane at hotmail.com To: stuartt at tlthompson.com To: Lfmaol Cc: TR-6 list Sent: Dec 21, 2007 1:40 PM Subject: RE: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter I have to admit that I have been in Stuart's position as well but if it doesn't leak when it goes back together, why mess with it? Bob Clark '69 TR6 Hey! That's a great tip. Just remove the oil filter seal and it'll stop leaking!! (haha) I'm just picking on you Stuart. You have been lucky. That bugger is difficult to get out. I can't imagine letting an oil change place change the oil in my Six, but I'm anal about it. I let it drain for a week. If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm not sure I could describe. :) Happy first day of Winter on Saturday. Half way back to Top-down season. Sloane :o) 69-Six I have never used one and it hasn't > leaked a drop> of oil (from the canister) in almost 5 years of ownership.> > I'll take a closer look next time and see what I am missing.> > Stuart Thompson> _______________________________________________> From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Dec 21 13:50:59 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 20:50:59 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi V, I don't wanna kill it, just remove it. :o) Two guys said 'dental pick'. What is that? Surely you don't mean you get it out with a wooden tooth pick. Sloane :) 69-Six I stab it with a utility knife blade or o-ring / dental pick. See AOL's top rated recipes and easy ways to stay in shape for winter. _________________________________________________________________ im is proud to present Cause Effect, a series about real people making a difference. http://im.live.com/Messenger/IM/MTV/?source=text_Cause_Effect From sbeaulieu at caci.com Fri Dec 21 14:01:47 2007 From: sbeaulieu at caci.com (Stephen Beaulieu) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 16:01:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] St Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 12/21/2007 and will not return until 12/27/2007. I will respond to your message when I return. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Dec 21 14:44:49 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:44:49 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: "Robert N. Clark" 's message of Fri, 21 Dec 2007 11:40:55 -0800 Message-ID: <7148-476C33D1-3641@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Bob---The square ring is generally good for more than one canister removal, IF the canister is round and the perimeter is smooth. It helps to put it back in the same clocked position, by noting the AC embossing, or other mark before removal. I change my 'ring about every three years, or whenever the engine comes out, whichever comes first. I have found that if the unit is going to leak, it will be right after the engine is started, after the oil canister is replaced. Usually the result of not getting the canister square to the block recess. I also use a (Harbor Freight) dental pick, by stabbing the rubber about midpoint along one side, and liftng sraight up. (A nail should work in a pinch) This causes the rubber to pop out of the groove. Dick E-mail message Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: rclark at robertsonclark.com(Robert N. Clark) Date: Fri, Dec 21, 2007, 11:40am To: Vsnively at aol.com, im_sloane at hotmail.com, stuartt at tlthompson.com, Lfm614 at aol.com Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter I have to admit that I have been in Stuart's position as well but if it doesn't leak when it goes back together, why mess with it? Bob Clark '69 TR6 .....If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm not sure I could describe. :) Happy first day of Winter on Saturday. Half way back to Top-down season. Sloane :o) 69-Six I have never used one and it hasn't > leaked a drop> of oil (from the canister) in almost 5 years of ownership.> > I'll take a closer look next time and see what I am missing.> > Stuart Thompson> ______________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Dec 21 14:57:15 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 13:57:15 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5 Speed/Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Thu, 20 Dec 2007 20:09:21 -0500 Message-ID: <7148-476C36BB-3667@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Bob, and others who may be in is position--- Of course we wouldn't want to "shorten" the drive shaft if it weren't necessary to do so. It would seem prudent to compare the two diffs to see how much farther forward the pinion shaft and its flange locates. If the Nissan diff is two inches "longer" and it uses up too much of the slide in the propshaft and tranny tail shaft splines, then the seal at the tranny tail shaft is at risk. At some time in the future I will probably go the Nissan limited-slip route, and this would be my thoughts about the possible shortening. Dick Sender: From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson Last night I posted a question about who had the Toyota 5 speed and Nissan diff combo and if they had to shorten their drive shaft. I got a lot of off list responses and no one had shortened their drive shaft except for one person. This morning I had a 30 minute call with Herman to understand (or try to) why he now says it HAS to be shortened. Basically, there are 2 slips in this set up: Slip 1 is the flange on the rear of the tranny and Slip 2 is in the drive shaft. Both slips can move in and out, effectively lengthening or shortening the overall length. If the tranny flange is moved in too far it will damage the rear seal over time causing it to leak and eventually leak bad enough to cause total fluid loss. It's happened to one owner already while on a drive & destroyed the tranny. If the flange moves out too far (more then 7/8" from the seal) it causes a whipping action which will wreck the tranny bearings. Herman says to have the driveshaft cut to length, remove the slip and end up with a solid drive shaft with no clamp. I'm only the messenger so If you have questions, you might want to contact Herman directly. Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From drsandner at embarqmail.com Fri Dec 21 15:06:59 2007 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 17:06:59 -0500 Subject: [6pack] "dental pick' Message-ID: listers it is not an 'dental pick', but rather a dental 'explorer'. i assume you all go to the DDS every 6 months, (you DO NOT want to outlive your teeth), just as you change you oil every 3K. ask him/her for any 'used ' #5DE explorers' or any 'pig tail explorers', or currettes. also flea markets are good, nice stuff made in pakistan, carry a magnet.................true stainless steel is not magnetic. randy sandner 74.5 tr6 hickory nc From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Dec 21 16:13:36 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 23:13:36 +0000 Subject: [6pack] bi metal vs tri metal bearings ? Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4EA5@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> We are in the process of rebuilding my engine. I see there are bi-metal bearings and tri-metal bearings for twice the price. The engine will be slightly tweaked with GP2 cam and 9.6:1 compression, what would the tri-metal versions do for me ? Stan Stan Foster | [cid:image001.gif at 01C843FD.3461A320] [cid:image002.gif at 01C843FD.3461A320] | HP Technology Solutions Group | +1 281 926 9015 [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image001.gif] [demime 1.01d removed an attachment of type image/gif which had a name of image002.gif] From dramsey11 at alltel.net Fri Dec 21 19:13:03 2007 From: dramsey11 at alltel.net (Darrell Ramsey) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 21:13:03 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071222021305.QLCD9878.ispmxaamta05-gx.windstream.net@VALUEDFD36E9B8> If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could probably use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique I'm not sure I could describe. :) > I stab the old O-ring with a pointy exacto-knife and pull it right out. Works like a charm and there is a certain Sweeny Todd satisfaction. Darrell R From triosan at gmail.com Fri Dec 21 22:51:16 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Fri, 21 Dec 2007 21:51:16 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Toyota 5 Speed/Nissan Diff In-Reply-To: <7148-476C36BB-3667@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> References: <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org> <7148-476C36BB-3667@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <8cbd782d0712212151k743c1c8audce9d3953e47d9bf@mail.gmail.com> I replied off list to Bob regarding the shortening of the drive shaft when using both Herman's tranny and Goodparts Nissan diff. I got a shaft shortened, but ended up using the uncut one. I do recall having a bit** of a time getting the shaft on the diff because it was just long enough to not be able to get a wrench on the engine side of the flange at the diff. Ended up fabricating some long extension so I could hold the nut or bolt from the far side of the cruciform plate. Course this argues for the shorter shaft. Cannot remember why I did not use it -- probably thought it pulled the shaft out of the tranny too far. But having read what Herman wrote, that was probably a mistake. Do not have any leaks after many track miles, so I assume it is OK. Chuck On Dec 21, 2007 1:57 PM, Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > Bob, and others who may be in is position--- > > Of course we wouldn't want to "shorten" the drive shaft if it weren't > necessary to do so. It would seem prudent to compare the two diffs to > see how much farther forward the pinion shaft and its flange locates. If > the Nissan diff is two inches "longer" and it uses up too much of the > slide in the propshaft and tranny tail shaft splines, then the seal at > the tranny tail shaft is at risk. At some time in the future I will > probably go the Nissan limited-slip route, and this would be my thoughts > about the possible shortening. > > Dick > > Sender: > > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson > > Last night I posted a question about who had the Toyota 5 speed and > Nissan diff combo and if they had to shorten their drive shaft. I got a > lot of off list responses and no one had shortened their drive shaft > except for one person. This morning I had a 30 minute call with Herman > to understand (or try to) why he now says it HAS to be shortened. > Basically, there are 2 slips in this set up: Slip 1 is the flange on the > rear of the tranny and Slip 2 is in the drive shaft. Both slips can move > in and out, effectively lengthening or shortening the overall length. If > the tranny flange is moved in too far it will damage the rear seal over > time causing it to leak and eventually leak bad enough to cause total > fluid loss. It's happened to one owner already while on a drive & > destroyed the tranny. If the flange moves out too far (more then 7/8" > from the seal) it causes a whipping action which will wreck the tranny > bearings. Herman says to have the driveshaft cut to length, remove the > slip and end up with a solid drive shaft with no clamp. I'm only the > messenger so If you have questions, you might want to contact Herman > directly. > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as triosan at gmail.com > -- Chuck Arnold From DLylis at aol.com Sat Dec 22 05:32:07 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 07:32:07 EST Subject: [6pack] "dental pick' Message-ID: I sure hope my dentist doesn't go to the flea market and buy 'explorers' made in Pakistan. I am up for a routine cleaning. I may ask! David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From jmitch at snet.net Sat Dec 22 07:13:55 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 09:13:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Tin-Zinc plating kit In-Reply-To: <6fa72a770712211904t6f66c7te1da56d947056b39@mail.gmail.com> References: <000c01c843d3$c09b9000$8119fea9@greenwaymedical.com> <476C6E7A.7020204@snet.net> <6fa72a770712211904t6f66c7te1da56d947056b39@mail.gmail.com> Message-ID: <476D1BA3.2060908@snet.net> For smaller items like brackets and bolts, a 0 to 3 amp variable rectifier is more than adequate. Here's a link to Caswell's power supply page. It takes some practice when you first start to get a nice plate, but it's easily either blasted or buffed off, and you can go again. I think it's kinda fun, and my wife says I look like a mad scientist with all my buckets of solution set up:) Read through the caswell web site, as there's a wealth of information. Their prices are high, and many of the items I sourced elsewhere, I'm a pharmacist, so I have alternative sources for chemicals. I only order from them what I cant get elsewhere. John Mitchell 76 TR6 http://www.caswellplating.com/kits/rect.htm Chris Simonsen wrote: > hi John - I'm a or was an Electrical engineer - got lots of old > project remnants stashed everywhere - just what do I look for in a > power supply for plating? I want to get started with the TR2 this winter. > > Thanks > > Chris > > 63 Tr4 > 54 TR2 > > On Dec 21, 2007 8:55 PM, John Mitchell > wrote: > > I've used the Caswell Copy Cad kit with great success. It's expensive > to get started, as it's best to have a variable power suppy to do the > plating. You can just plate and it will leave a dull silver zinc like > cadmium plate, or you can add a brightener and get an almost chrome > shine to the plate. You can also dip in yellow chromate dye after > plating for yellow zinc parts. If you've just got a bucket of > bolts to > be done, it would be cheaper and much easier to go commercial . > If you > watch ebay, you can often pick up a power supply pretty cheap. As > with > any plating, the preparation the part receives is the most important > part. Check out caswell's web site. There's a great deal of > information > there, and they are very helpful with problems. They also host a > plating forum online. John Mitchell 76 TR6 with lots of > fresh > yellow zinc parts. > > Dave Willner wrote: > > I'm thinking about improving the appearance of a lot of smaller > hardware and > > odds and ends this winter and was wondering if anyone has any > experience using > > any of the plating kits available today, I know Eastwoods sells > a fairly > > inexpensive Tin-Zinc kit that seems to produce some pretty nice > results. I've > > also looked at some of the cad plating systems, a bit more > expensive but a > > real nice finish. Thanks > > > > Dave Willner > > Stroudsburg, PA > > 59 TR3A Apple Green > > 70 MGB BRG > > 70 BSA 441 Victor Special From jmitch at snet.net Sat Dec 22 07:16:48 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 09:16:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Winter Time Message-ID: <476D1C50.9050607@snet.net> Ooooops .15 volts. Damn decimals John Mitchells From standardtriumph at btinternet.com Sat Dec 22 11:55:31 2007 From: standardtriumph at btinternet.com (John Macartney) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 18:55:31 -0000 Subject: [6pack] Greetings All Message-ID: <00f901c844cc$3a9ddae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> I'd just like to take this opportunity in wishing all members of these lists, wherever they may live, a very Happy Christmas and New Year. In lurk mode at the moment and unsure whether the lists have 'wobbled' again as they're quiet of late. Cheers all, Jonmac Originator of The Triumph Trans-America Charity Drive 2009 www.triumphtransamerica.org.uk An event for full TRIUMPH Enthusiast participation From k6na at cts.com Sat Dec 22 14:43:09 2007 From: k6na at cts.com (Glenn Rattmann) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 13:43:09 -0800 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com> My tool is not really a 'dental pick' although I called it that. Actually it is a 'two-point scriber', Model 380B, by General Tools and Instruments. See it here (I have NFI): http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Two-Point-Scriber__380B.aspx The descriptive-text writer must have owned a TR6: "Great for marking and etching, lifting O-rings and gaskets, and cleaning small grooves." ;-) BTW General also makes a great automatic (spring-loaded) center punch, and you can even replace the tip. I went through two cheap clones from Harbor Freight before I wised up and got one. It's lasted 10+ years and still going strong. Glenn/San Diego 74.5s At 02:06 PM 12/21/2007, randy wrote: >listers >it is not an 'dental pick', but rather a dental 'explorer'. >i assume you all go to the DDS every 6 months, (you DO NOT want to outlive >your teeth), just as you change you oil every 3K. >ask him/her for any 'used ' #5DE explorers' or any 'pig tail explorers', or >currettes. snip From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Dec 22 15:33:47 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:33:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] OFF TOPIC-ENGINE SWAP Message-ID: <000001c844ea$b99adff0$6601a8c0@Robert> I know this is not six pack talk, but I need to get info on swapping out an original flathead for a 1300 Spitfire engine into a 1949 Triumph Mayflower. If any of you know how it's done or have any information I would appreciate an e-mail off line. Thanks. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Dec 22 15:38:22 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:38:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Greetings All In-Reply-To: <00f901c844cc$3a9ddae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> References: <00f901c844cc$3a9ddae0$0201a8c0@Bevan> Message-ID: <000501c844eb$5cb9e870$6601a8c0@Robert> To all members and Listers of Six Pack, Please accept, with no obligation, implied or illicit, my best wishes for an environmentally conscious, socially responsible, low stress, non-addictive, gender-neutral celebration of the winter solstice holiday, practiced within the most enjoyable of traditions of the religious persuasion of your choice, or secular practices of your choice, with respect for the religious/secular persuasion and/or practices of others, or their choice not to practice religious or secular traditions at all. I also wish you a fiscally successful, personally fulfilling and medically uncomplicated recognition of the onset of the generally accepted calendar year 2008, but not without due respect for the calendars of choice of other cultures whose contributions to society have helped make America great. Not to imply that America is necessarily greater than any other country nor the only America in the Western Hemisphere. Also, this wish is made without regard to race, creed, color, age, physical ability, religious faith or sexual preference of the wishes. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sat Dec 22 15:57:47 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:57:47 -0500 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' In-Reply-To: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com> References: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com> Message-ID: <000501c844ee$13de4c60$210110ac@bobspc> When I saw this one about the "dental pick" I called my dentist brother in law who's retiring next week and asked if he had any picks that he'd no longer need. I'm getting them all. Any other dental tools that'll work in car workshop? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Glenn Rattmann Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 4:43 PM To: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' My tool is not really a 'dental pick' although I called it that. Actually it is a 'two-point scriber', Model 380B, by General Tools and Instruments. See it here (I have NFI): http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Two-Point-Scriber__380B.aspx The descriptive-text writer must have owned a TR6: "Great for marking and etching, lifting O-rings and gaskets, and cleaning small grooves." ;-) BTW General also makes a great automatic (spring-loaded) center punch, and you can even replace the tip. I went through two cheap clones from Harbor Freight before I wised up and got one. It's lasted 10+ years and still going strong. Glenn/San Diego 74.5s At 02:06 PM 12/21/2007, randy wrote: >listers >it is not an 'dental pick', but rather a dental 'explorer'. >i assume you all go to the DDS every 6 months, (you DO NOT want to >outlive your teeth), just as you change you oil every 3K. >ask him/her for any 'used ' #5DE explorers' or any 'pig tail >explorers', or currettes. snip 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1192 - Release Date: 12/21/2007 1:17 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1192 - Release Date: 12/21/2007 1:17 PM From jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu Sat Dec 22 16:35:22 2007 From: jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu (jserignese at notes.cc.sunysb.edu) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 18:35:22 -0500 Subject: [6pack] James Serignese/UHMC is out of the office. Message-ID: I will be out of the office starting 12/22/2007 and will not return until 01/02/2008. I will respond to your message when I return. From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sat Dec 22 17:12:40 2007 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:12:40 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter References: <008101c840fa$599137b0$7407f746@Dell320><004301c843f4$3b48ff20$7407f746@Dell320><1934109875-1198257614-cardhu_decombobulator_blackberry.rim.net-250788982-@bxe035.bisx.prod.on.blackberry><009401c843f8$bf858c50$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <002001c844f8$883741c0$44466c44@office> I asked my dentist for his worn out picks, scrapers, and probes. I use one of them to pull out the old square ring when changing the oil filter. Bill Wellbaum British Auto Club of Las Vegas. ----- Original Message ----- From: "im sloane" To: "Stuart Thompson" ; Cc: "6 Pack list" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Friday, December 21, 2007 11:01 AM Subject: Re: [6pack] Spin-On Adapter > Hey! That's a great tip. Just remove the oil filter seal and it'll stop > leaking!! (haha) > > I'm just picking on you Stuart. You have been lucky. That bugger is > difficult > to get out. I can't imagine letting an oil change place change the oil in > my > Six, but I'm anal about it. I let it drain for a week. > > If anybody has a handy tip for getting that seal out, the list could > probably > use it. I use two small screwdrivers in one hand with a squeeze technique > I'm > not sure I could describe. :) > > Happy first day of Winter on Saturday. Half way back to Top-down season. > > Sloane :o) > 69-Six > > I have never used one and it hasn't > leaked a drop> of oil (from the > canister) in almost 5 years of ownership.> > I'll take a closer look next > time > and see what I am missing.> > Stuart Thompson> > _______________________________________________> > _________________________________________________________________ > Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. > http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as wcwellbaum at cox.net From wcwellbaum at cox.net Sat Dec 22 17:38:17 2007 From: wcwellbaum at cox.net (Bill Wellbaum) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 16:38:17 -0800 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' References: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com> <000501c844ee$13de4c60$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <007801c844fc$1c8b55c0$44466c44@office> Bob--My first ex-wife worked in an orthodontist's office. ANY thing you get out of such an office will become valuable in your work shop. The list is endless. Bill Wellbaum ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: "'Glenn Rattmann'" ; <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 2:57 PM Subject: Re: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' > When I saw this one about the "dental pick" I called my dentist brother in > law who's retiring next week and asked if he had any picks that he'd no > longer need. I'm getting them all. Any other dental tools that'll work in > car workshop? > > > Bob Danielson > 1975 TR6 CF38503U > Running w/ Throttle Body Injection > http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > -----Original Message----- > From: 6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net > [mailto:6pack-bounces+75tr6=tr6.danielsonfamily.org at autox.team.net] On > Behalf Of Glenn Rattmann > Sent: Saturday, December 22, 2007 4:43 PM > To: 6pack at autox.team.net > Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' > > My tool is not really a 'dental pick' although I called it that. > Actually it is a 'two-point scriber', Model 380B, by General Tools and > Instruments. See it here (I have NFI): > > http://www.generaltools.com/Products/Two-Point-Scriber__380B.aspx > > The descriptive-text writer must have owned a TR6: > > "Great for marking and etching, lifting O-rings and gaskets, and cleaning > small grooves." > ;-) > BTW General also makes a great automatic (spring-loaded) center punch, and > you can even replace the tip. I went through two cheap clones from Harbor > Freight before I wised up and got one. It's lasted > 10+ years and still going strong. > > Glenn/San Diego > 74.5s > > At 02:06 PM 12/21/2007, randy wrote: >>listers >>it is not an 'dental pick', but rather a dental 'explorer'. >>i assume you all go to the DDS every 6 months, (you DO NOT want to >>outlive your teeth), just as you change you oil every 3K. >>ask him/her for any 'used ' #5DE explorers' or any 'pig tail >>explorers', or currettes. > > snip > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as 75tr6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > No virus found in this incoming message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1192 - Release Date: > 12/21/2007 > 1:17 PM > > > No virus found in this outgoing message. > Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1192 - Release Date: > 12/21/2007 > 1:17 PM > -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as wcwellbaum at cox.net From rclark at robertsonclark.com Sat Dec 22 20:37:55 2007 From: rclark at robertsonclark.com (Robert N. Clark) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 19:37:55 -0800 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' In-Reply-To: <000501c844ee$13de4c60$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob, My father in law retired a few years ago and I have all of his of all sorts of shapes. Since I am one of the "leave it in unless it leaks" guys I may have to try one out on removing the oil filter seal. The only other device I found extremely useful is a surgical clamp, probably more medical than dental. It is the ideal tool for inserting the retention pin between the interior door handles and spacer when maintaining the spring. Bob Clark '69 TR6 When I saw this one about the "dental pick" I called my dentist brother in law who's retiring next week and asked if he had any picks that he'd no longer need. I'm getting them all. Any other dental tools that'll work in car workshop? From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Dec 23 00:04:17 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sat, 22 Dec 2007 23:04:17 -0800 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' 2 In-Reply-To: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:57:47 -0500 Message-ID: <1553-476E0871-5172@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Bob---Latch on to those little mirrors on the end of a wand. Also he might have some small grinding discs. Dick E-mail message Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org(Bob Danielson When I saw this one about the "dental pick" I called my dentist brother in law who's retiring next week and asked if he had any picks that he'd no longer need. I'm getting them all. Any other dental tools that'll work in car workshop? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Dec 23 06:03:58 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 13:03:58 +0000 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal, wasRe: "dental pick' 2 In-Reply-To: <1553-476E0871-5172@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> References: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message of Sat, 22 Dec 2007 17:57:47 -0500 <1553-476E0871-5172@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4ED4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Also nitrile or latex gloves. And that motorized chair would make a great lounger in the garage From trsix74 at comcast.net Sun Dec 23 07:00:30 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 09:00:30 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Recycling, was Re O-ring removal, was Re: "dental pick' In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4ED4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message ofSat, 22 Dec 2007 17:57:47 -0500<1553-476E0871-5172@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4ED4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <000001c8456c$2f6609e0$6601a8c0@Robert> My wife is a nurse in an operating room. When a sterilized pack gets opened to perform a surgery, not all the items are used. On a daily basis I get usable clean items such as soft gauze, rubber gloves, gowns, large towels and once in a while a suction bowl and tube. It is unbelievable what gets thrown away. When I work on cleaning parts I look like Dr Kildare in my work shop! The best thing is I can toss the dirty stuff right into the trash and walk out of the shop clean. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From drsandner at embarqmail.com Sun Dec 23 07:27:09 2007 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 09:27:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] "dental pick' Message-ID: <299B545B37DD4ABD845DD31DF660E309@randyPC> morning bob, perio probes are nice, slender tips measured in mm. hemostats (clamps) are great. if he has a dental engine and handpiece, GRAB it by all means. if you take this, get a contra angle, and some diamonds/burs. for the straight handpiece get the straight shaft green/ white stones, and some mandrels and polishing wheels. upper root tip forceps are good for getting into small places. irrigating syringes are good for lubricating in tight places, the list is endless. he will know what all this stuff is. oh, the scribe alluded to in previous posts is also an 'explorer' mirrors are good, especially if they are 'front surface' #5, the common size is good, the #2 & 3, ,used for root canals, let you see in tight places. hope you and yours, and all the listers have a wonderful Christmas, and a fantastic new year. randy From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 23 09:13:42 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 11:13:42 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Recycling, was Re O-ring removal, was Re: "dental pick' In-Reply-To: <000001c8456c$2f6609e0$6601a8c0@Robert> References: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message ofSat, 22 Dec 2007 17:57:47 -0500<1553-476E0871-5172@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4ED4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <000001c8456c$2f6609e0$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <000b01c8457e$cb2dc770$210110ac@bobspc> Never thought about this opportunity for getting stuff! My daughter in law is a Delivery Room nurse........Hmmmm? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org -----Original Message----- From: Robert Liam Gannon [mailto:trsix74 at comcast.net] Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 9:01 AM To: 'Foster, Stan'; 'Bob Danielson' Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Recycling, was Re O-ring removal, was Re: "dental pick' My wife is a nurse in an operating room. When a sterilized pack gets opened to perform a surgery, not all the items are used. On a daily basis I get usable clean items such as soft gauze, rubber gloves, gowns, large towels and once in a while a suction bowl and tube. It is unbelievable what gets thrown away. When I work on cleaning parts I look like Dr Kildare in my work shop! The best thing is I can toss the dirty stuff right into the trash and walk out of the shop clean. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html No virus found in this incoming message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM From vitop at sbcglobal.net Sun Dec 23 09:27:28 2007 From: vitop at sbcglobal.net (Vito) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 10:27:28 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Water temp sending unit Message-ID: <091c01c84580$b6141900$6601a8c0@serverxp> Is the water temp sending unit in the water pump housing supposed to be installed as is with just the round gasket, or are you supposed to put some sort of sealer on it? Same question for the thermistat... Thanks! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 23 09:28:05 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 11:28:05 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Nissan Differential Message-ID: <000e01c84580$ce1dd090$210110ac@bobspc> Well, I'm moving along with my Toyota 5 speed and Nissan differential upgrade. I just posted a bunch of pictures showing what's required to modify the differential flange to mate with the TR6 drive shaft flange. I thought it just needed new holes drilled to match up but it went well beyond that. It's sure nice to have friends with specialized machines in their workshop. Many thanks to Rick Patton for doing this work for me. You can see his handiwork at http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org/60thBirthday.htm in the Nissan Differential section. But also take a second to check out his home workshop. It can be found at http://www.pattonmachine.com/ in the "About Rick" section. It's quite impressive. Next up is to pull the engine and transmission. The engine bay is stripped down to just the engine and the interior has been gutted to expose the transmission. That will happen around Jan 3rd and then the fun really begins. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year.......... Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM From stan.foster at hp.com Sun Dec 23 16:02:10 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 23:02:10 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Recycling, was Re O-ring removal, was Re: "dental pick' In-Reply-To: <000b01c8457e$cb2dc770$210110ac@bobspc> References: "Bob Danielson" <75TR6@tr6.danielsonfamily.org>'s message ofSat, 22 Dec 2007 17:57:47 -0500<1553-476E0871-5172@storefull-3132.bay.webtv.net> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4ED4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <000001c8456c$2f6609e0$6601a8c0@Robert> <000b01c8457e$cb2dc770$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4EEA@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Another handy tool is a scalpel. They are really really sharp and are great for tasks like fine tuning trim or carpet that normal knives and scissors cant handle. Get spare blades. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Bob Danielson Sent: Sunday, December 23, 2007 11:14 AM To: 'Robert Liam Gannon' Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] Recycling, was Re O-ring removal, was Re: "dental pick' Never thought about this opportunity for getting stuff! My daughter in law is a Delivery Room nurse........Hmmmm? Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org From jmitch at snet.net Sun Dec 23 16:07:48 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:07:48 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Battery voltage Message-ID: <476EEA44.7020509@snet.net> Someone(Randall maybe) here recently stated what the voltage that a fully charged 12 volt auto battery should hold. Could you repeat it. I'm rehabilitating a red top Lucas Pacesetter battery with EDTA and was wondering what my goal should be. It's holding 12.6volts after a full charging. Thanks and Merry Christmas, John Mitchell 76 TR6 From DLylis at aol.com Sun Dec 23 16:08:37 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:08:37 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] "dental pick' Message-ID: In a message dated 12/23/2007 9:27:47 A.M. Eastern Standard Time, drsandner at embarqmail.com writes: morning bob, perio probes are nice, slender tips measured in mm. hemostats (clamps) are great. if he has a dental engine and handpiece, GRAB it by all means. if you take this, get a contra angle, and some diamonds/burs. for the straight handpiece get the straight shaft green/ white stones, and some mandrels and polishing wheels. upper root tip forceps are good for getting into small places. irrigating syringes are good for lubricating in tight places, the list is endless. he will know what all this stuff is. oh, the scribe alluded to in previous posts is also an 'explorer' mirrors are good, especially if they are 'front surface' #5, the common size is good, the #2 & 3, ,used for root canals, let you see in tight places. hope you and yours, and all the listers have a wonderful Christmas, and a fantastic new year. randy Oh, and the chairs are real comfy. Well suited for a nap in the garage. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From DLylis at aol.com Sun Dec 23 16:12:02 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:12:02 EST Subject: [6pack] Recycling, was Re O-ring removal, was Re: "dental pick' Message-ID: If I knew a Proctologist I would get one of those scopes to look in the crankcase. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 23 16:43:25 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:43:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> This is probably about as basic a question as you can ask but....I'd rather ask and look dumb that not ask at all! Herman recommends the following gear oils for the Toyota 5 speed: Redline Gear Oil 75W Valvoline GL 5 80-90W, Kendall Gear Oil 75W or..... API Gear Oil GL4 or GL5. Is API a type of Gear Oil or a is it a standard that various oil oils must meet? For example, I saw Castrol Gear Oil with the API GL5 designation on the label. It just seemed strange that he specified Redline, Valvoline and Kendall by brand name. Thanks Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007 2:02 PM From john70350 at msn.com Sun Dec 23 16:54:39 2007 From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 23:54:39 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Bob, I would be careful using a GL5 lubricant. I have always used a GL4 and I know a lot of others on the list recommend using it. GL4 helps protect the softer metals found in our cars and GL5 can have a negative effect on the syncros. Just my 2 cents. John Johnson > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:43:25 -0500> Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question> > This is probably about as basic a question as you can ask but....I'd rather> ask and look dumb that not ask at all!> > Herman recommends the following gear oils for the Toyota 5 speed: Redline> Gear Oil 75W Valvoline GL 5 80-90W, Kendall Gear Oil 75W or..... API Gear> Oil GL4 or GL5. > > Is API a type of Gear Oil or a is it a standard that various oil oils must> meet? For example, I saw Castrol Gear Oil with the API GL5 designation on> the label. It just seemed strange that he specified Redline, Valvoline and> Kendall by brand name.> > Thanks> > Bob Danielson> 1975 TR6 CF38503U> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.> Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007> 2:02 PM _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From john70350 at msn.com Sun Dec 23 16:54:48 2007 From: john70350 at msn.com (John Johnson) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 23:54:48 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c845bd$9e6e1890$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: > From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org> To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack at autox.team.net> Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:43:25 -0500> Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question> > This is probably about as basic a question as you can ask but....I'd rather> ask and look dumb that not ask at all!> > Herman recommends the following gear oils for the Toyota 5 speed: Redline> Gear Oil 75W Valvoline GL 5 80-90W, Kendall Gear Oil 75W or..... API Gear> Oil GL4 or GL5. > > Is API a type of Gear Oil or a is it a standard that various oil oils must> meet? For example, I saw Castrol Gear Oil with the API GL5 designation on> the label. It just seemed strange that he specified Redline, Valvoline and> Kendall by brand name.> > Thanks> > Bob Danielson> 1975 TR6 CF38503U> Running w/ Throttle Body Injection> http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org > > > No virus found in this outgoing message.> Checked by AVG. > Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.6/1193 - Release Date: 12/22/2007> 2:02 PM _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Dec 23 23:41:56 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 23 Dec 2007 22:41:56 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Battery voltage In-Reply-To: John Mitchell 's message of Sun, 23 Dec 2007 18:07:48 -0500 Message-ID: <252-476F54B4-3636@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> John M.---I recently replaced my six year old Diehard with a new one. Wondering how fresh this one would be, with a dusty top plate, I brought it home and it showed 12.7V with my (hand-held) voltmeter. After running the engine for a short time the meter showed 12.8V. I suspect it took a surface charge. Dan the Man said that a good battery should show 12.6V. Fair enough. Dick From: jmitch at snet.net(John Mitchell) Someone(Randall maybe) here recently stated what the voltage that a fully charged 12 volt auto battery should hold. Could you repeat it. I'm rehabilitating a red top Lucas Pacesetter battery with EDTA and was wondering what my goal should be. It's holding 12.6volts after a full charging. Thanks and Merry Christmas, John Mitchell 76 TR6 ______________________________________ From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 06:06:40 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:06:40 EST Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: Bob, I think it is the American Petroleum Institute (API) and is a standardizing body. As you are using a Toyota box the GL5 may be OK. From my research and not experience, GL5 is not recommended for the TR box as the sulphur content wreaks havoc on the brass bushes. GL4 is specified. Toyota may have used alloys that the GL5 is OK with. Herman knows best. Merry Christmas David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Dec 24 06:22:14 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:22:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <000801c84630$01f33630$6601a8c0@Robert> Make sure you do not use a gear oil that is multi functional rated as in GL4 and GL5 combined. It must be straight GL4. I recommend a product from NAPA called STA LUBE. Item number SL 24239 SAE 85W90 Hypoid API/GL$ (Distributed by CRC) Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Dec 24 06:26:23 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:26:23 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Gear Oil Question In-Reply-To: <000801c84630$01f33630$6601a8c0@Robert> References: <000801c84630$01f33630$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <000901c84630$961fa550$6601a8c0@Robert> Sorry that should read GL4 not GL$. (GL$ is what I am forking out in food for entertainment this Christmas = Gobs of Lovely Dollars) Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From trsix74 at comcast.net Mon Dec 24 06:40:41 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:40:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] What will Santa Bring? Message-ID: <000a01c84632$942c00c0$6601a8c0@Robert> So what are you getting for Christmas (Workshop, TR6 or other British Metal related)? Wonder I was thinking about a whole car lift for the garage. Wonder how good I have been? Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From jmitch at snet.net Mon Dec 24 06:54:43 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:54:43 -0500 Subject: [6pack] What will Santa Bring? In-Reply-To: <000a01c84632$942c00c0$6601a8c0@Robert> References: <000a01c84632$942c00c0$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <476FBA23.5020202@snet.net> How about a Parker combination plasma cutter/TIG welder. I've been holding off removing my old exhaust system because I want to try the plasma cutter on it:) John Mitchell 76 TR6 Robert Liam Gannon wrote: > So what are you getting for Christmas (Workshop, TR6 or other British Metal > related)? > > Wonder > > I was thinking about a whole car lift for the garage. Wonder how good I have > been? From Chip19474 at aol.com Mon Dec 24 07:07:12 2007 From: Chip19474 at aol.com (Chip19474 at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 09:07:12 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] Battery voltage Message-ID: 12.66v - fully charged, no load **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 24 07:12:51 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:12:51 -0600 Subject: [6pack] What will Santa Bring? References: <000a01c84632$942c00c0$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <001c01c84637$ed7e4480$800101df@garage.local> allowed time in the garage . . . > So what are you getting for Christmas (Workshop, TR6 or other British > Metal > related)? From im_sloane at hotmail.com Mon Dec 24 08:00:58 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:00:58 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Recycling, was Re O-ring removal, was Re: "dental pick' In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: I would think that 'scope' would work well for viewing the inside of the muffler, but I've never really wanted to look closely 'back there'. Sloane :)69-Six www.triumphowners.com/743> > If I knew a Proctologist I would get one of those scopes to look in the > crankcase.> > David Lylis> 69 TR6 CC26160L> 60 TR3A TS74461LO _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From tr6nut at verizon.net Mon Dec 24 08:10:03 2007 From: tr6nut at verizon.net (Hugh Barber) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 10:10:03 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Happy Holidays to All of You Message-ID: <476FCBCB.30402@verizon.net> I just wanted to take a moment and wish all of you a very Merry Christmas / Happy Hanukkah / Merry Festivus and a happy and safe New Year. Hugh Barber Stafford, VA '73 TR6 From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 08:59:02 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 10:59:02 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: As did I, however, change the tranny gear oil soon after. I was amazed at what came out in the new gear oil when I dumped it after a few hundred miles. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From stuartt at tlthompson.com Mon Dec 24 09:25:08 2007 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 10:25:08 -0600 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal References: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com> Message-ID: <002201c84649$8cbf3fc0$7407f746@Dell320> I was able to remove the old canister seal by using my wifes eyebrow tweezers. The old seal was in relatively good condition. The new seal is now in place and no leaks. Her tweezers are now a part of my tool collection. Happy Christmas! Stuart Thompson '74 TR6 From sumton at sbcglobal.net Mon Dec 24 11:16:44 2007 From: sumton at sbcglobal.net (Oliver) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 12:16:44 -0600 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal References: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com> <002201c84649$8cbf3fc0$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <000701c84659$254f0b30$800101df@garage.local> does she know that??? "Her tweezers are now a part of my tool collection." From slowtoaccept at yahoo.com Mon Dec 24 11:20:53 2007 From: slowtoaccept at yahoo.com (Jerry Shaw) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 13:20:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Ratco is here Message-ID: <001701c84659$b88114c0$0302a8c0@jerrysoffice> My Ratco has been a joy to put together. I chose to paint it myself using POR-15 (it's repairable if dinged) and I had Tony fill all closed tubing with foam. Since I don't live very far from Tony's facilities, he actually paid me a visit, along with his friend Anthony and they helped me test fit the tub to the chassis before taking the tub and all removables to the painter. I had done a number of welding repairs on the tub while attached to the old frame, including a floor pan and rocker panel and a B-post. I experimented with lowering the tub from the ceiling of my garage and found that tipping the tub's nose down first and attaching two front purchase points first then lowering the rear allowed quite acceptable alignment to almost all mounting holes. I will need to enlarge only one or two tub mounting holes to achieve perfect fitment. I should note that I cross-braced both door apertures on the inside, so I will get back a fully assembled body from the painter, which I can then lower onto the chassis for final fitment. This avoids potential damage to any parts in trying to reassemble piece by piece back home. I bought an ATV/snowmobile trailer for this job, which I will sell when I finish, so I took the fully assembled body to the painter and will trailer it back complete. They have already taken the parts off, primed and painted inside areas, and are now reassembling for the final finishing. In the meantime, I broke in the cam and tested the engine, only to find that my spin-on filter leaks! Can't even get it out of the garage before an oil leak!. See pics at http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=977 Jerry From jimhearn1 at comcast.net Mon Dec 24 12:59:20 2007 From: jimhearn1 at comcast.net (jimhearn1 at comcast.net) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 19:59:20 +0000 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: <122420071959.9955.47700F980008E859000026E32200758942CE029D0E0A08030706@comcast.net> Dave, what did come out in the new gear oil? Jim -------------- Original message -------------- From: DLylis at aol.com > As did I, however, change the tranny gear oil soon after. I was amazed at > what came out in the new gear oil when I dumped it after a few hundred miles. > > David Lylis > 69 TR6 CC26160L > 60 TR3A TS74461LO > > > > **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes > (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) > _______________________________________________ > > Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html > > 6pack at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack > > http://www.team.net/archive > > You are subscribed as jimhearn1 at comcast.net From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 13:12:52 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:12:52 EST Subject: [6pack] [TR] Gear Oil Question Message-ID: Dark color. murky. After the initial dump it continues to have a normal gear oil color. I have a couple of friends who did the conversion as well and told them to dump their gear oil after a few hundred miles. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From DLylis at aol.com Mon Dec 24 13:18:12 2007 From: DLylis at aol.com (DLylis at aol.com) Date: Mon, 24 Dec 2007 15:18:12 EST Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal Message-ID: In a message dated 12/24/2007 1:19:57 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, sumton at sbcglobal.net writes: does she know that??? "Her tweezers are now a part of my tool collection." It reminds me of a story about a turkey baster. As the bird came out of the oven, my wife asks "Honey, have you seen the baster?" That was the last time I was called "Honey" that day. David Lylis 69 TR6 CC26160L 60 TR3A TS74461LO **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From triosan at gmail.com Tue Dec 25 17:04:25 2007 From: triosan at gmail.com (Chuck Arnold) Date: Tue, 25 Dec 2007 16:04:25 -0800 Subject: [6pack] [Fot] Suspension modifications In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <8cbd782d0712251604m6a109764w3371772ede7afde7@mail.gmail.com> Bill. thanks for the postand the advice. The advantage of adding rose jounts at the end of the a-arms is that you can adjust them to any length. On the TR6, I tried moving thebgall joint in about 3/8 inch because the DPO had welded the lower arm mount in so I could not shim it in the ususal 6 manner. Even this amount took me from 0 camber to too much [according to the temps]. Now, on bump steer. I thoughtthe theory was to keep the lwer A arm and the tie rod arm parllel. Just adjusted the streert car's sway bar. Did this with the bar completely unloaded, then dropped the front onto my wheel ramps. While adjusting the sway bar, I took the time to observe how the tie rod bolted into the steering arm. It was slanted down hill about 25-30 degrees. Indeed, the arm on the hub that the tie rod joint goes into is slandted down to accomplish this. Any idea of the "Why" of this design and if it makes sense to lessen the amount of drop. Some one of these days I will actually have most of a car ready such that I can play around with the TR6 and bunp steer. Anyone out there have any advice? On Dec 23, 2007 1:24 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 12/23/2007 12:30:01 P.M. Pacific Standard Time, > BillB at bnj.com writes: > > > I've harped on this before, but the bump steer in these cars is horrific. > You > can work to eliminate that and have a car that works so much better you > won't > believe the difference. Once you do that you can soften those springs and > let > the suspension work some. Makes another huge difference. > > > > Amen! > > > > **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes > (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) > _______________________________________________ > http://www.team.net/donate.html > > Fot mailing list > Fot at autox.team.net > http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/fot > -- Chuck Arnold From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Dec 26 07:43:10 2007 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 08:43:10 -0600 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal References: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com><002201c84649$8cbf3fc0$7407f746@Dell320> <000701c84659$254f0b30$800101df@garage.local> Message-ID: <003d01c847cd$a2d4c520$7407f746@Dell320> > does she know that??? > I believe she has an extra pair with serrated teeth for awsome yanking power! From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Dec 26 07:46:28 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 14:46:28 +0000 Subject: [6pack] O-ring removal In-Reply-To: <003d01c847cd$a2d4c520$7407f746@Dell320> References: <7.0.1.0.2.20071222132656.05a46518@cts.com><002201c84649$8cbf3fc0$7407f746@Dell320> <000701c84659$254f0b30$800101df@garage.local> <003d01c847cd$a2d4c520$7407f746@Dell320> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F28@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Sorry, I think I must have missed the earlier posts on this topic, are we back to dentists again and now talking about dentures ? :-) -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Stuart Thompson Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 9:43 AM To: Oliver; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] O-ring removal > does she know that??? > I believe she has an extra pair with serrated teeth for awsome yanking power! _______________________________________________ From sakirsis at consolidated.net Wed Dec 26 10:52:31 2007 From: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 11:52:31 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Clutch pedal return spring Message-ID: <000801c847e8$16861590$6601a8c0@MomandDad> Has there been any discussion on the clutch and brake pedal return springs. They both look very flimsy for the stretch they have to make as well as very awkward positioning for the brake pedal spring. I just received TRF replacements as there was only one spring on the car (clutch) and it was broken and hanging. Techniques? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Dec 26 12:35:44 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 11:35:44 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Clutch pedal return spring In-Reply-To: "Steve Kirsis" 's message of Wed, 26 Dec 2007 11:52:31 -0600 Message-ID: <251-4772AD10-9330@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> Steve---I've never found these springs to have any affect on clutch or brake operations. The rubber dust covers help return the pedals to where there's no unwanted contact. Dick From: sakirsis at consolidated.net(Steve Kirsis) Has there been any discussion on the clutch and brake pedal return springs. They both look very flimsy for the stretch they have to make as well as very awkward positioning for the brake pedal spring. I just received TRF replacements as there was only one spring on the car (clutch) and it was broken and hanging. Techniques? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. ______________________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Dec 26 12:45:35 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 11:45:35 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Clutch pedal return spring In-Reply-To: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)'s message of Wed, 26 Dec 2007 11:35:44 -0800 Message-ID: <252-4772AF5F-4880@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> Steve---Forget about (part of) my reply below. The dust covers do little here. It's the normal return action of both brake and clutch that makes these springs reduntant. Set the brake light switch to allow for any lost return motion. Dick Sender: 6pack-bounces+tr6taylor=webtv.net at autox.team.net From: tr6taylor at webtv.net(Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, Dec 26, 2007, 11:35am To: sakirsis at consolidated.net (Steve Kirsis) Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net ('6pack') Subject: Re: [6pack] Clutch pedal return spring Steve---I've never found these springs to have any affect on clutch or brake operations. The rubber dust covers help return the pedals to where there's no unwanted contact. Dick From: sakirsis at consolidated.net(Steve Kirsis) Has there been any discussion on the clutch and brake pedal return springs. They both look very flimsy for the stretch they have to make as well as very awkward positioning for the brake pedal spring. I just received TRF replacements as there was only one spring on the car (clutch) and it was broken and hanging. Techniques? Thanks, Steve Kirsis. '70 Damson, '75 Pimento. ______________________________________ From tr6taylor at webtv.net Wed Dec 26 12:57:35 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 11:57:35 -0800 Subject: [6pack] What will Santa Bring? In-Reply-To: "Robert Liam Gannon" 's message of Mon, 24 Dec 2007 08:40:41 -0500 Message-ID: <251-4772B22F-9347@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> m.net From: trsix74 at comcast.net(Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, Dec 24, 2007, 8:40am (PST+3) To: So what are you getting for Christmas (Workshop, TR6 or other British Metal related)? Robert L. Gannon Robert---Santa came a little early with one of my presents. In time for me to read the directions (about 25 times) on how to operate my new engine lathe. It's a benchtop model made by Central Machinery. Just right for most of my needs. My first successful job was to make two new bushings for the Lucas 22D distributor. Zero side play in the rotor shaft now! Also a six gallon Shop Vac. to clean up all of the mess such machines generate. Dick From jmitch at snet.net Wed Dec 26 13:41:06 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 15:41:06 -0500 Subject: [6pack] What will Santa Bring? In-Reply-To: <251-4772B22F-9347@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> References: <251-4772B22F-9347@storefull-3135.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: <4772BC62.5080009@snet.net> You need to start hinting about a Bridgeport Miller for next Xmas:) John Sally or Dick Taylor wrote: > m.net From: trsix74 at comcast.net(Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Mon, Dec > 24, 2007, 8:40am (PST+3) To: > > So what are you getting for Christmas (Workshop, TR6 or other British > Metal related)? > Robert L. Gannon > > Robert---Santa came a little early with one of my presents. In time for > me to read the directions (about 25 times) on how to operate my new > engine lathe. It's a benchtop model made by Central Machinery. Just > right for most of my needs. My first successful job was to make two new > bushings for the Lucas 22D distributor. Zero side play in the rotor > shaft now! > > Also a six gallon Shop Vac. to clean up all of the mess such machines > generate. > > Dick From stuartt at tlthompson.com Wed Dec 26 15:22:09 2007 From: stuartt at tlthompson.com (Stuart Thompson) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 16:22:09 -0600 Subject: [6pack] TR6 Sighting Message-ID: <006301c8480d$c18a4c20$7407f746@Dell320> I was just out in my Pimento TR6 and passed a guy going the opposite direction in a BRG TR6. That hasn't happened to me in a very long time! North Dallas (cloudy 44*) Stuart From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Dec 26 16:53:58 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 23:53:58 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Looking for some help with engine bay brake pipe routing and a mystery clip Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F37@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Hi and happy Boxing day btw.. I'm starting to dismantle my engine bay prior to its refurb and as I'm documenting how things are configured I can see that something isn't right with the brake pipes from the master cylinder and also found a metal clip that looks like it should have been anchoring something but isn't. I wonder if anyone has a correct picture that corresponds to the ones shown via the links below. There is a plastic clip apparently designed for two brake pipes located where the brake pipes look like they may have once been and it would be interesting to know what the original routing was for those pipes. I have also circled a metal clip on the driver side inner fender just to the right of the PDW switch which I am suspecting may have originally anchored the metal pipe from the clutch master cylinder. This is a 1974.5 The current brake pipe routing http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/mys teryclip1.jpg The mystery clip (circled) http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/mys teryclip2.jpg Thanks.. Stan From MGruber921 at aol.com Wed Dec 26 17:11:38 2007 From: MGruber921 at aol.com (MGruber921 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 19:11:38 EST Subject: [6pack] mailing list Message-ID: Please add me to the list Happy Holidays Marvin Gruber ************************************** See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From Timbo00001 at aol.com Wed Dec 26 17:20:46 2007 From: Timbo00001 at aol.com (Timbo00001 at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 19:20:46 EST Subject: [6pack] mailing list Message-ID: Please take me off **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From palavagedrew at hotmail.com Wed Dec 26 18:37:10 2007 From: palavagedrew at hotmail.com (Drew Palavage) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 20:37:10 -0500 Subject: [6pack] any info on Power British Message-ID: Anybody out there (particularly in the mid-Atlantic/Philadelphia area) have any information on Power British in the Plymouth Meeting/Norristown area? I had heard that Brian closed up shop. I had performance mods done in his shop back in 2003. Very happy with the results. I'd like to get back into his shop for some minor tweeking but am unable to contact him. If not, does anyone in this region have someone they could recommend who understands the car and performance set-ups? Thanks..Drew _________________________________________________________________ Share life as it happens with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com/share.html?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_sharelife_122007 From samuelsma at aol.com Wed Dec 26 20:21:28 2007 From: samuelsma at aol.com (samuelsma at aol.com) Date: Wed, 26 Dec 2007 22:21:28 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 adventures Message-ID: <8CA164EB44744BC-4FC-2FB3@WEBMAIL-MB11.sysops.aol.com> Listers: While?we digest all the holiday food and recover from Christmas shopping/returning/gift card redeeming, I would love to hear your opinions on a non-technical topic:? Great TR6 adventures. Specifically:? In Miami, we are in our driving season now until around early May.? I have a 5-day vacation planned in February with a car-enthusiast friend in which the only idea is that we are going to drive the Tahiti blue car somewhere and have fun.? Further, I would like to spend some time with my other friends from the local Triumph/British car?club on weekends enjoying our toys. Please tell all of us what you think makes a great Triumph-related activity.? It could be a one-day event or a longer tour.? It could be something that you do alone with your '6, or with a small or large group.? It could be technical or social.? I'm thinking here of things that relate to using the car, not fixing it.? I would be particularly interested in hearing some stories about using your TR6 for a longer drive, in regard to how you prepared for it, what spares and tools you brought, and whether you traveled alone or in a caravan of similar cars. Looking forward to the responses! Michael '76 Tahiti blue Can't wait to hit?the road ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From stan.foster at hp.com Wed Dec 26 20:34:30 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 03:34:30 +0000 Subject: [6pack] mailing list In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F38@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Guys and/or gals, Every email you get from the 6pack list includes this link: http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack Follow it and you can maintain your own subscription. Add, remove or take advantage of a new feature to suspend while on vacation etc. Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Timbo00001 at aol.com Sent: Wednesday, December 26, 2007 7:21 PM To: MGruber921 at aol.com; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] mailing list Please take me off **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) _______________________________________________ From Vsnively at aol.com Thu Dec 27 08:01:53 2007 From: Vsnively at aol.com (Vsnively at aol.com) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 10:01:53 EST Subject: [6pack] Looking for some help with engine bay brake pipe routing and a my... Message-ID: In a message dated 12/26/2007 6:55:34 PM Eastern Standard Time, stan.foster at hp.com writes: Hi and happy Boxing day btw.. I'm starting to dismantle my engine bay prior to its refurb and as I'm documenting how things are configured I can see that something isn't right with the brake pipes from the master cylinder and also found a metal clip that looks like it should have been anchoring something but isn't. I wonder if anyone has a correct picture that corresponds to the ones shown via the links below. There is a plastic clip apparently designed for two brake pipes located where the brake pipes look like they may have once been and it would be interesting to know what the original routing was for those pipes. I have also circled a metal clip on the driver side inner fender just to the right of the PDW switch which I am suspecting may have originally anchored the metal pipe from the clutch master cylinder. This is a 1974.5 The current brake pipe routing http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/mys teryclip1.jpg The mystery clip (circled) http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/mys teryclip2.jpg Thanks.. Stan 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as _vsnively at aol.com_ (mailto:vsnively at aol.com) Stan, The mystery clip secures the steel clutch line to the frame. It's the one-piece line connecting the clutch master cylinder to the "plastic" tube connected to the clutch slave cylinder. Mine's spun 180 degrees relative to your photo with the screw towards the firewall and the clamp towards the radiator. Hope this helps. Regards, Vic Snively '75 TR6 w/AC **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From jsvannorman at gmail.com Thu Dec 27 09:08:25 2007 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:08:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Speedo gauge glass Message-ID: Before I check with the normal resources, I was wondering if anyone had a spare glass for the speedometer gauge they would be willing to sell. I'm taking the gauges apart to redo them (new o-rings, clean the glass, etc.) and accidentally broke the glass on the speedo gauge. Thanks! John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 From marty.tr6 at gmail.com Thu Dec 27 11:03:05 2007 From: marty.tr6 at gmail.com (Marty Clark) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:03:05 -0700 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Battery voltage In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Per my Auto Electronics I class I just completed - 12.6v. The battery contains 6 cells and each cell should be 2.1v, (2.1v x 6 = 12.6v). Marty Clark Gilbert, AZ 1974 TR6 CF17352U http://www.triumphowners.com/798 From drsandner at embarqmail.com Thu Dec 27 12:07:19 2007 From: drsandner at embarqmail.com (j randolph sandner) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 14:07:19 -0500 Subject: [6pack] glass Message-ID: hi john, glass is glass.............depends on thickness. take to local glass shop, along /c piece of broken [for thickness]. they will probably cut it while you wait randy From tr6taylor at webtv.net Thu Dec 27 14:00:34 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 13:00:34 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Speedo gauge glass In-Reply-To: "John VanNorman" 's message of Thu, 27 Dec 2007 11:08:25 -0500 Message-ID: <341-47742082-11239@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> John V---On the same subject, new (or used) oil canister O-rings make a good gasket between the dash wood recess and the body of the speedo unit. An extra piece is necessary to complete the circle. Dick From: jsvannorman at gmail.com(John VanNorman) Before I check with the normal resources, I was wondering if anyone had a spare glass for the speedometer gauge they would be willing to sell. I'm taking the gauges apart to redo them (new o-rings, clean the glass, etc.) and accidentally broke the glass on the speedo gauge. Thanks! John V. 1974 1/2 TR6 ______________________________________________ From shannm2 at triad.rr.com Thu Dec 27 19:15:55 2007 From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 21:15:55 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 3rd Gear Grind Message-ID: <002201c848f7$944263c0$0d01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> Listers, I've had a strange issue that has been bugging me for months. History: About a year ago I purchased a remanufactured gearbox and J-type (preassembled) from a highly respected rebuilder that ships all over the nation. When I installed the gearbox, I put in 30w non-detergent oil in the box as suggested and started driving the car. Almost immediately, the gearbox started to slip out of all gears during deceleration and grinding between gears; especially the 3 -> 2 downshift and the 2 -> 3 upshift (but only when done quickly). I called the rebuilder, he said that the grind is normal and to allow time for the sycros to break in. However he didn't have a clue about it slipping out of gear; he said to ship it back, no questions asked. Now the strange part: He couldn't find anything wrong..nothing, nada, zilch. But just to be sure he shipped me another rebuilt gearbox, complete with J-type overdrive. I got the "new" gearbox in (it had a different serial number) and it does the exact same thing; slipping out of every gear AND grinding, this with a new clutch/pressure plate and new HVDA hydraulic throw out bearing. Desperate, I drain the 30w oil and put in regular old 85w90 gear oil and just like magic the gearbox stops slipping out of gear, but the grinding remains. Now as I drive the car, it does seem to be grinding significantly less on the 3 -> 2 downshifts than it did before, but the 2 -> 3 upshift grinds remain as bad as they ever were. About 50% of the time any shift faster than a leisurely gear change from 2nd to 3rd results in a grind. I really don't know what to do about this, so any advice you guys have to give would be greatly appreciated. Thanks, -shannon From jmitch at snet.net Thu Dec 27 19:46:36 2007 From: jmitch at snet.net (John Mitchell) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 21:46:36 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 3rd Gear Grind In-Reply-To: <002201c848f7$944263c0$0d01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> References: <002201c848f7$944263c0$0d01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> Message-ID: <4774638C.9060004@snet.net> Hi Shannon, My rebuilt transmission,( had my original unit done by John Esposito) will occasionally grind on a quick upshift from 2nd to 3rd, but it's getting better. I also switched from 30w oil to redline MT-90 which slickened things up and the OD works fine with it. I've only got about 300 miles on it, but the grind is about gone. I assume it's the synchro rings wearing in. No idea about it popping out of gear. Mine has never done that, even before the rebuild. Could it be that the clutch isn't completely disengaging? I had a lot of slop in the pedal bushings. I ended up welding up the hole in the clutch pedal and redrilling the hole. Then I replaced the clevis pin and that gave me a clutch that disengages about half way to the floor. Just a thought. John Mitchell 76TR6 Shannon Muncy wrote: > Listers, > > I've had a strange issue that has been bugging me for months. > > History: About a year ago I purchased a remanufactured gearbox and J-type > (preassembled) from a highly respected rebuilder that ships all over the > nation. When I installed the gearbox, I put in 30w non-detergent oil in the > box as suggested and started driving the car. Almost immediately, the gearbox > started to slip out of all gears during deceleration and grinding between > gears; especially the 3 -> 2 downshift and the 2 -> 3 upshift (but only when > done quickly). I called the rebuilder, he said that the grind is normal and > to allow time for the sycros to break in. However he didn't have a clue about > it slipping out of gear; he said to ship it back, no questions asked. Now the > strange part: He couldn't find anything wrong..nothing, nada, zilch. But > just to be sure he shipped me another rebuilt gearbox, complete with J-type > overdrive. > > I got the "new" gearbox in (it had a different serial number) and it does the > exact same thing; slipping out of every gear AND grinding, this with a new > clutch/pressure plate and new HVDA hydraulic throw out bearing. Desperate, I > drain the 30w oil and put in regular old 85w90 gear oil and just like magic > the gearbox stops slipping out of gear, but the grinding remains. Now as I > drive the car, it does seem to be grinding significantly less on the 3 -> 2 > downshifts than it did before, but the 2 -> 3 upshift grinds remain as bad as > they ever were. About 50% of the time any shift faster than a leisurely gear > change from 2nd to 3rd results in a grind. > > I really don't know what to do about this, so any advice you guys have to give > would be greatly appreciated. From shannm2 at triad.rr.com Thu Dec 27 20:08:49 2007 From: shannm2 at triad.rr.com (Shannon Muncy) Date: Thu, 27 Dec 2007 22:08:49 -0500 Subject: [6pack] 3rd Gear Grind References: <002201c848f7$944263c0$0d01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> <4774638C.9060004@snet.net> Message-ID: <004701c848fe$f7b115d0$0d01a8c0@vcn.ds.volvo.net> John, I tried MT-90 with the first gearbox and it didn't seem to help, so I drained it out. I've actually been slightly afraid to use it again since the slipping out of gear problems appears to be fixed. I'm pretty sure my clutch stuff is OK, while I had the gearbox out the second time, I replaced the entire clutch system with HVDA hydraulic clutch. What a sweet piece of work that thing is. Anyway the entire clutch system is new, so I'm about 99.999% sure that not the problem; especially since I've had the same syptoms with two different clutch systems.. But I suppose anything is possible at this point. Thanks, Shannon From TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com Fri Dec 28 07:57:26 2007 From: TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com (TRIUMPH6PK at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 09:57:26 EST Subject: [6pack] 3rd Gear Grind Message-ID: Shannon, I rebuilt my own transmission several years ago with no grinding issues like you're experiencing. You may want to check with your rebuilder to see if he took the time to hand lap the new synchronizers into their mating cups, this process takes time but helps with the break-in period. Also I found that the detent ball bearings and springs were worn and weak thus not giving enough resistance and pressure against the cone and syncro to stop the gear from turning so you can complete the shift. It's possible that both the synchro hub and sleeve assemblies need to be replaced ( part numbers 509649 and 515650). These are generally not part of a normal rebuild. Good luck Doug 71 TR6 Damson **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From stan.foster at hp.com Fri Dec 28 08:08:08 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 15:08:08 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Washer bottle bracket attachment points ? Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F5C@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Sorry, yet another "what is this supposed to look" like question.. This link is a picture of my current washer bottle bracket. It is attached by one bolt into a threaded rubber plug and by two screws into the panel. The other two holes that look they were meant for two more threaded rubber plugs have been blanked off with grommets. http://i38.photobucket.com/albums/e119/foster461/Winter%202008%20Projects/Was herBottle.jpg autox wraps long URLs so this should also get you there with one click http://tinyurl.com/2njacr Was there a reason that this bottle has to be moved over or was this just a creative solution by a PO to lost or worn out mounts ? Stan From im_sloane at hotmail.com Fri Dec 28 09:26:32 2007 From: im_sloane at hotmail.com (im sloane) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:26:32 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Speedo gauge glass In-Reply-To: <341-47742082-11239@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> References: <341-47742082-11239@storefull-3136.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Dick, I don't understand your last sentence. The oil filter gasket will stretch around the speedo/tach body with just a little effort. Sloane :)An extra piece is necessary to complete the circle.> > Dick> _________________________________________________________________ Don't get caught with egg on your face. Play Chicktionary! http://club.live.com/chicktionary.aspx?icid=chick_wlhmtextlink1_dec From tr6taylor at webtv.net Fri Dec 28 13:17:17 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 12:17:17 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Speedo gauge glass In-Reply-To: im sloane 's message of Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:26:32 +0000 Message-ID: <19031-477559CD-1219@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Sloane---That's good to know. I didn;t realize that this O-ring would stretch an inch! Dick Dick From: im_sloane at hotmail.com(im sloane) tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor), Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net (6-Pack) Subject: RE: [6pack] Speedo gauge glass Dick, I don't understand your last sentence. The oil filter gasket will stretch around the speedo/tach body with just a little effort. Sloane :) An extra piece is necessary to complete the circle. > > Dick From jberg at bepc.com Fri Dec 28 13:55:02 2007 From: jberg at bepc.com (Jim Berg) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 14:55:02 -0600 Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes Message-ID: List, sometime this winter I am planning on replacing some lower gaskets in an attempt to stop some of the oil leaks that have been present on my 76 for some time now. I seem to remember at one point that someone was selling a "new and improved" front sealing block. Has anybody out there ever replaced or worked on this part or for that matter tried the new aftermarket piece? I seem to remember seeing it on ebay. As far as the pan gasket goes, is there an after market gasket that does a better job of sealing the pan? Any suggestions, help, advice etc is much appreciated in stopping most of the leaks anyway. From lang at isis.mit.edu Fri Dec 28 14:32:07 2007 From: lang at isis.mit.edu (Robert Lang) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 16:32:07 -0500 (EST) Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Hi, Before you go and replace all your seals, take some time and try to figure out why the engine is leaking. Seals can and do dry out, but most leaks come from another source - crankcase pressurization. So, you should do a leakdown test to see if your rings are okay first. Otherwise, you'll replace the seals and the motor will start leaking in 100 miles. Maybe less. As far as the sealing block thing, they used to show up on eBay every now and then. But if I was to spend $50 or $100 for a new gizmo for the engine and that gizmo didn't contribute to the overall health of the engine, I'd be pretty dissapointed. Rather, spend $50 - $100 for a cheap leakdown guage and find out why the motor leaks. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From johnehorton at yahoo.com Fri Dec 28 14:39:42 2007 From: johnehorton at yahoo.com (johnehorton at yahoo.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 13:39:42 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <48350.83007.qm@web51907.mail.re2.yahoo.com> There is a secrete about stopping leaks. It is called CLEAN. I found out that after cleaning mating surfaces by scraping, scraping again, cleaning with acetone until the metal shown, I was able to seal up any leaks. Your sealant must have a clean surface to adhere to. The slightest amount of dirt or oil and the new seal does not set. Try that, it will surprise you. John H. By the want the original gaskets work just great. Jim Berg wrote: List, sometime this winter I am planning on replacing some lower gaskets in an attempt to stop some of the oil leaks that have been present on my 76 for some time now. I seem to remember at one point that someone was selling a "new and improved" front sealing block. Has anybody out there ever replaced or worked on this part or for that matter tried the new aftermarket piece? I seem to remember seeing it on ebay. As far as the pan gasket goes, is there an after market gasket that does a better job of sealing the pan? Any suggestions, help, advice etc is much appreciated in stopping most of the leaks anyway. 6pack at autox.team.net http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/6pack http://www.team.net/archive You are subscribed as johnehorton at yahoo.com --------------------------------- Never miss a thing. Make Yahoo your homepage. From lajomor05 at msn.com Fri Dec 28 15:28:00 2007 From: lajomor05 at msn.com (JODY A MORRISON) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 15:28:00 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? Message-ID: Hello to all... There is a movement afoot here in Colorado instigated by the Colorado Automobile Dealers (read, new car dealers) to get all pre-1990 cars off the roads here in Colorado. In a telling remark in the article, the pre-1990 cars are referred to as 'jalopies'. Their spokesman states that "5 percent of the vehicles out there - made in 1990 and before - are responsible for more than half, and perhaps three-quarters of the emissions." Of course this makes no mention of the favorite Colorado Commuter Vehicles ( aka, high dealer-profit vehicles)....diesel pickups, Escalades, Hummers, hemi-powered anything, etc. etc. It appears to be a transparent effort to divert attention away from any attempts to require new cars/trucks/SUVs to have much higher mpg ratings and to sell more new cars. Duh..... You can read the article and form you own opinions at: http://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2007/dec/28/saying-no-to-clunkers/ but...to my main question.... Can our classic Triumphs in any way be retrofitted with catalytic converters in an effort to meet stiffer emission standards foisted upon us by 'our' local and federal governments? I understand the basic principles of catalytic converters...and oxygen sensors...and computer-controlled fuel delivery systems. Can carbureted systems work with converters or do their erratic mixtures shorten the life of a converter so much so that it would be cost-prohibitive? As I think about my grandsons inheriting my treasure I must wonder if they will ever get to actually drive it. Happy New Year to all..... Larry M TR250 project in Colorado From jimjcmo at yahoo.com Fri Dec 28 15:46:23 2007 From: jimjcmo at yahoo.com (Jim Jones) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 14:46:23 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <553811.3288.qm@web33505.mail.mud.yahoo.com> (snip) I would be very surprised if that idea made it through your legislative body. There have been attempts along that line by other states. All failed, largely because the people who drive the "jalopies" are mostly the poor and the elderly. The latter, of course, VOTE. The dealers argument is really without merit. MOST pre-1980 cars are already out of service! If the dealers were truly concerned about the environment they would partner with charitable organizations to offer free, or reduced cost tune-ups to the poor and elderly people who drive these cars. That would do a lot to clean up emissions and reduce fuel consumption. Regarding fitting a cat to a TR6, the heat these things make could turn the interior into an oven. It would have to be very well shielded, which means that it would probably hang lower thant the current exhaust plumbing. Imagine driving a TR6 with less ground clearance?? My $.02 worth. From mbarre at juno.com Fri Dec 28 18:20:30 2007 From: mbarre at juno.com (Matt) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 01:20:30 GMT Subject: [6pack] 3rd gear grind Message-ID: <20071228.202030.8864.0@webmail13.vgs.untd.com> You may want to ensure that the thrust washers aren't allowing the crank to move forward significantly when the clutch is disengaged. _____________________________________________________________ Click for your daily horoscope, learn about money, love & family. http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL2121/fc/Ioyw6i3ly8kypSsdcNAuYICibxoh50g8T Yk0uJoKg104NKyPkUgBv7/ From TR6UO at aol.com Fri Dec 28 19:59:27 2007 From: TR6UO at aol.com (TR6UO at aol.com) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 21:59:27 EST Subject: [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? Message-ID: Larry, Taking a note from California, the best they could hope to accomplish is to pass legislation requiring older cars to retain original emissions equipment. Taking them off the road would be political suicide. Retrofitting a non-catalytic car is just impossible. California legislators managed to eliminate a hard-won rolling 30-year exemption with AB 2683 a few years ago that now only exempts 1975 and older cars from current smog requirements. Thanks for nothing, State Senator Mike Machado. We'll be hearing from these guys again before it's over. My point here is that, regrettably, California usually leads the pack on this stuff and they haven't been successful in taking older cars off the road either. My advice is to keep your smog pumps, etc., if only on the shelf. Steve **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Fri Dec 28 20:09:20 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Fri, 28 Dec 2007 20:09:20 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> JODY A MORRISON wrote: > Hello to all... > There is a movement afoot here in Colorado instigated by the Colorado > Automobile Dealers (read, new car dealers) to get all pre-1990 cars off the > roads here in Colorado. In a telling remark in the article, the pre-1990 cars > are referred to as 'jalopies'. Their spokesman states that "5 percent of the > vehicles out there - made in 1990 and before - are responsible for more than > half, and perhaps three-quarters of the emissions." Of course this makes no > mention of the favorite Colorado Commuter Vehicles ( aka, high dealer-profit > vehicles)....diesel pickups, Escalades, Hummers, hemi-powered anything, etc. > etc. > > It appears to be a transparent effort to divert attention away from any > attempts to require new cars/trucks/SUVs to have much higher mpg ratings and > to sell more new cars. Duh..... > > You can read the article and form you own opinions at: > http://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2007/dec/28/saying-no-to-clunkers/ ://www.rockymountainnews.com/news/2007/dec/28/saying-no-to-clunkers/> > > ... > As I think about my grandsons inheriting my treasure I must wonder if they > will ever get to actually drive it. > > Happy New Year to all..... > Larry M > TR250 project in Colorado > Larry, For us Coloradans, this has got to get the attention of every car club in Colorado. I will be raising this issue at the next Colorado English Motoring Conclave meeting 23rd January 2008 and request that each member get back to their respective clubs. I do not think however that they will outlaw classic cars 25 years old or older. There is a fairly strong lobby with classics, and "Hot Rods" even recently obtained their own license "Hot Rod" plate in Colorado just like collector vehicles. Our emissions testing only applies to standard tags and post 1981. Special tags for collector vehicles only require a tail pipe 2000 RPM test. If the car can pas clean car emissions, which my Stag can with EFI, you can still get standard plates. Re improving emissions, just go an EFI setup with O2 sensor feedback and cat's. It will give you performance in Colorado right up into altitude and allow you to meet or exceed emission specs -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From ms6453 at optonline.net Sat Dec 29 06:02:10 2007 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 08:02:10 -0500 Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <47764552.80000@optonline.net> Hey Jim, The sealing block was a continuing source of frustration for me as well. There is an early & late version of the block, both fit but the later is slightly redesigned & reinforced (not much improved). There are a few reasons for leaks in this area. The aluminum material used was very soft and has a total of 7 bolts going through it. It is torque in two directions, sealing the timing cover, oil pan & block. There are 3 bolts in the front for the timing cover that are short. Very often the two outer bolts are accidentally replaced with longer bolts , when you tighten these down they end up hitting the two sealing block mounting bolts (the ones going up in to the block) & stripping. These two are critical in length This is the case for all of the bolts that screw directly in to the sealing block itself. The aluminum is soft and strips easily. In addition the voids on either side of the block are sealed with WOOD wedges. After lots of back time under the car repeating the repair I finally used a thread repair called Keenserts http://www.ondrives.com/products.asp?recnumber=437 . Between these, the proper bolts, Hylomer sealant and careful reassembly I have not seen a drip in 4 years from this spot. If you have a bentley manual , page 133 shows the part & assembly. If you need more info let me know. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Dec 29 06:07:02 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 13:07:02 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Another mystery hole Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F89@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> You guys are doing great with identifying strange artifacts in my engine bay. I have another one.. On the far right of the flat area that accommodates the battery and right next to the vertical section where the pedal box and servo are attached there is a hole. It looks like a factory hole and is drilled into an area that looks like it was pressed for this purpose. As I removed the paint it looked like there was some filler material in it that yielded to the scraper. The hole was not visible until I stripped the paint. http://tinyurl.com/3yj52v Directly below the hole there is a small but fairly beefy tab that is welded to the panel and angled. It is easily seen from the driver side footwell. As far as I can tell neither hole or the tab have ever been used for anything. Anyone have any idea what this is/was ? Stan From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Dec 29 07:02:07 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 09:02:07 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Another mystery hole In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F89@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F89@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <000001c84a23$67c6ed20$6601a8c0@Robert> The tab would be to hold down an electrical wire or wrapped group of wires. Generally, a protective plastic sleeve would be used to cover it, in order to avoid chaffing of the wire. The hole would be to bring it through the firewall. Maybe, and I am guessing, it is pre stamped and set up for a left hand drive. During manufacturing, most panels were made to be used either way. This way there was no need to make up two stamps. On my TR3A I have the some tabs and holes for the same reason. A simple rubber plug was used for holes which would not be utilized. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From stan.foster at hp.com Sat Dec 29 07:20:02 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 14:20:02 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Another mystery hole In-Reply-To: <000001c84a23$67c6ed20$6601a8c0@Robert> References: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F89@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> <000001c84a23$67c6ed20$6601a8c0@Robert> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F8B@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> This particular tab is short, maybe half an inch long, rounded at the end and made of 1/16 steel and does not bend so I don't think it is a typical wire retainer like the many others on a TR. You may be right about something common to the RHD PI version, we have other evidence of that in the trunk where we have a bracket to attach the non-existent trim around the non-existent fuel pump.. I'll ask in the UK TR Register forum Stan -----Original Message----- From: Robert Liam Gannon [mailto:trsix74 at comcast.net] Sent: Saturday, December 29, 2007 9:02 AM To: Foster, Stan; 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: RE: [6pack] Another mystery hole The tab would be to hold down an electrical wire or wrapped group of wires. Generally, a protective plastic sleeve would be used to cover it, in order to avoid chaffing of the wire. The hole would be to bring it through the firewall. Maybe, and I am guessing, it is pre stamped and set up for a left hand drive. During manufacturing, most panels were made to be used either way. This way there was no need to make up two stamps. On my TR3A I have the some tabs and holes for the same reason. A simple rubber plug was used for holes which would not be utilized. Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From red_tr250 at yahoo.com Sat Dec 29 08:00:35 2007 From: red_tr250 at yahoo.com (Todd Bermudez) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 07:00:35 -0800 (PST) Subject: [6pack] Another mystery hole In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4F89@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <777984.53632.qm@web43145.mail.sp1.yahoo.com> Me thinks the hole is there for a LHD PI car for the accelerator cable...remember, they were cable drives. Still lookin' for a GT6 MKIII linkage setup...they did that too. Cheers, Todd --- "Foster, Stan" wrote: > You guys are doing great with identifying strange > artifacts in my engine bay. > > I have another one.. > > On the far right of the flat area that accommodates > the battery and right next > to the vertical section where the pedal box and > servo are attached there is a > hole. It looks like a factory hole and is drilled > into an area that looks like > it was pressed for this purpose. As I removed the > paint it looked like there > was some filler material in it that yielded to the > scraper. The hole was not > visible until I stripped the paint. > > http://tinyurl.com/3yj52v > > > Directly below the hole there is a small but fairly > beefy tab that is welded > to the panel and angled. It is easily seen from the > driver side footwell. > > As far as I can tell neither hole or the tab have > ever been used for anything. > Anyone have any idea what this is/was ? > > Stan ____________________________________________________________________________________ Be a better friend, newshound, and know-it-all with Yahoo! Mobile. Try it now. http://mobile.yahoo.com/;_ylt=Ahu06i62sR8HDtDypao8Wcj9tAcJ From jberg at bepc.com Sat Dec 29 08:00:31 2007 From: jberg at bepc.com (Jim Berg) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 09:00:31 -0600 Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes References: Message-ID: Robert, good advice. Thanks. I have owned the car since 1979 and it dripped a little bit then. The drips are more like leaks now and I just assumed that it was old gaskets/seals. ________________________________ From: Robert Lang [mailto:lang at isis.mit.edu] Sent: Fri 12/28/2007 3:32 PM To: Jim Berg Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] oil leak fixes Hi, Before you go and replace all your seals, take some time and try to figure out why the engine is leaking. Seals can and do dry out, but most leaks come from another source - crankcase pressurization. So, you should do a leakdown test to see if your rings are okay first. Otherwise, you'll replace the seals and the motor will start leaking in 100 miles. Maybe less. As far as the sealing block thing, they used to show up on eBay every now and then. But if I was to spend $50 or $100 for a new gizmo for the engine and that gizmo didn't contribute to the overall health of the engine, I'd be pretty dissapointed. Rather, spend $50 - $100 for a cheap leakdown guage and find out why the motor leaks. regards, rml --------------------------------------------------------------------------- Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent Consultant MIT IS&T unix-linux-help | Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 | Cell: 339-927-4489 --------------------------------------------------------------------------- From jberg at bepc.com Sat Dec 29 08:03:25 2007 From: jberg at bepc.com (Jim Berg) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 09:03:25 -0600 Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes References: <47764552.80000@optonline.net> Message-ID: Mitch, thanks for the detailed response on this sealing block! Did you replace the wood? wedges? ________________________________ From: Mitch [mailto:ms6453 at optonline.net] Sent: Sat 12/29/2007 7:02 AM To: Jim Berg Cc: 6pack at autox.team.net Subject: Re: [6pack] oil leak fixes Hey Jim, The sealing block was a continuing source of frustration for me as well. There is an early & late version of the block, both fit but the later is slightly redesigned & reinforced (not much improved). There are a few reasons for leaks in this area. The aluminum material used was very soft and has a total of 7 bolts going through it. It is torque in two directions, sealing the timing cover, oil pan & block. There are 3 bolts in the front for the timing cover that are short. Very often the two outer bolts are accidentally replaced with longer bolts , when you tighten these down they end up hitting the two sealing block mounting bolts (the ones going up in to the block) & stripping. These two are critical in length This is the case for all of the bolts that screw directly in to the sealing block itself. The aluminum is soft and strips easily. In addition the voids on either side of the block are sealed with WOOD wedges. After lots of back time under the car repeating the repair I finally used a thread repair called Keenserts http://www.ondrives.com/products.asp?recnumber=437 . Between these, the proper bolts, Hylomer sealant and careful reassembly I have not seen a drip in 4 years from this spot. If you have a bentley manual , page 133 shows the part & assembly. If you need more info let me know. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Dec 29 08:16:02 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 10:16:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes In-Reply-To: <47764552.80000@optonline.net> References: <47764552.80000@optonline.net> Message-ID: <000201c84a2d$ba4d7000$6601a8c0@Robert> The sealing blocks are evident in all the triumph motors. Last week I pulled apart my 1949 Triumph Mayflower engine for the first time. Very much identical blocks including the wood expansion pieces are used. However, there is a greater mating surface against the front engine plate. With the use of the front engine plate gasket a better seal will be accomplished. The use of exact fitting bolts will be required otherwise it will puncture the inside wall and create leaks. When I rebuilt both TR6 engines, I was careful to make sure all surfaces were clean and added extra, non hardening, oil resistant gasket sealer to that particular area and once the front engine plate was completely torque down correctly, starting with the bolts on the top part of the plate and working my way down, I seam sealed the base as if I was caulking a bath tub. No leaks! The alloy sealing blocks had both been buggered, so the use if heli coils was required. Fortunately the sealing blocks had not been punctured. The biggest mistake made by us shade tree mechanics is the excessive over tightening of the bolts in this area. The sealing blocks are no longer made and are hard to come by. Once in a while you will find one on ebay, but generally they too have been buggered. Another mistake also made, adding to the possibility of excessive leaks, (Do not under any circumstances ask me how I know!), is the act of missing an oil plug. When I did engine number one, it seamed that I did not have the cam degreed in correctly, so one winter I pulled the front radiator and all the adjacent equipment off and re did the cam. Of course to get there, the front engine plate had to come off and the gasket too. Low and behold there was a hole, but the front engine plate gasket did its job and held back any oil. So just my 2 cents worth! Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From ms6453 at optonline.net Sat Dec 29 08:22:56 2007 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 10:22:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes In-Reply-To: <71170d5d001c860c@bepc.com> References: <47764552.80000@optonline.net> <71170d5d001c860c@bepc.com> Message-ID: <7BCD4F33B38740F3ADF906645627F0A1@marcydesk> Jim, The wood wedges can be reused as long as they are not split & fit well. At one point I even made some better fitting wedges. The thread repair made it possible to get the proper torque on the bolts. They are even available in the 5/16 SAE original thread pitch. When you remove your put it on a flat surface , you'll be amazed how twisted they get. Mitch From ms6453 at optonline.net Sat Dec 29 08:24:41 2007 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 10:24:41 -0500 Subject: [6pack] oil leak fixes In-Reply-To: <71170d5d001c860c@bepc.com> References: <47764552.80000@optonline.net> <71170d5d001c860c@bepc.com> Message-ID: Jim, I would also keep my eye out for the new unit I see on eBay every one in a while. I think it's worth the money if it's a good piece. From slbridge at hotmail.com Sat Dec 29 15:02:59 2007 From: slbridge at hotmail.com (steve bridge) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 22:02:59 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Fly By at Mt. Rushmore In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: http://www.youtube.com/user/stevesarts _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From forzion at maine.rr.com Sat Dec 29 17:58:26 2007 From: forzion at maine.rr.com (David Friedlander) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 19:58:26 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fly By at Mt. Rushmore In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: <4776ED32.6040406@maine.rr.com> SOUNDS great, Steve. Didn't SEE a thing, though! Dave steve bridge wrote: >http://www.youtube.com/user/stevesarts > > >_________________________________________________________________ From trsix74 at comcast.net Sat Dec 29 18:35:21 2007 From: trsix74 at comcast.net (Robert Liam Gannon) Date: Sat, 29 Dec 2007 20:35:21 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fly By at Mt. Rushmore In-Reply-To: <4776ED32.6040406@maine.rr.com> References: <4776ED32.6040406@maine.rr.com> Message-ID: <000001c84a84$4005a770$6601a8c0@Robert> Is this the kind of thing that the list is intended for? Hello, I did not see a TR6 anywhere! Robert L. Gannon http://home.comcast.net/~trsix74/wsb/index.html From apackard68 at comcast.net Sun Dec 30 01:32:20 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 00:32:20 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Holiday resto progress and tube shock bump stop question Message-ID: <20071230083851.0EDA5187A0A@autox.team.net> Happy Holidays, list. I received the gift of time to spend in the garage from my wife this past week. Follow the attached link for photos of my progress. http://www.kodakgallery.com/I.jsp?c=zgdfamr.29pyvnm7 &x=0&y=wwusc5 I transferred all of the suspension components to the new frame without many issues. Unfortunately, I had to do the full spring compression thing for the front end. I was hoping to short cut that step with shocks only, but the chassis sank very far down without the springs. I mounted the body temporarily for transport to the body shop. There they will replace both rockers and complete some other minor body work. When that is complete, I'll transport the body to the media blaster for stripping of the tub only. I'm still considering the powder coat primer for the tub only, but no decision as of yet. Once the shop has the body either in primer or ready to prime, I'll take back the frame and disassemble the suspension for powder coating of the various parts. For a suspension color scheme, I'm thinking about nickel-colored upper and lower control arms as well as the trailing arms. A royal blue has been suggested to me for the springs. The rest of the components will be done in a flat black, like the frame. Spring color suggestions are welcome. Have you seen any good looking examples of colors other than black? For those of you running tube shock conversions (I have the three piece bracket type), here's an issue: I don't have a way to use a bump stop to limit downward travel of the swing arms. In an extreme Dukes of Hazard-type construction area jump, I'm concerned about the half-shaft contacting the frame as the shocks extend fully. Any solutions of feedback available on this one? Andy CD 6746L HVDA From bdischer at blakedischer.com Sun Dec 30 06:06:40 2007 From: bdischer at blakedischer.com (Blake J. Discher) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 08:06:40 -0500 Subject: [6pack] [TR] Emissions in the future-is retrofitting possible? In-Reply-To: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> References: <4775BA60.70505@tscusa.org> Message-ID: <6BA2E218-1FF3-498A-8041-FF5AFB5C3B3F@blakedischer.com> Hi Jody, This sort of legislation is constantly underway in many, many States across the country. Fortunately, in almost every case, it is defeated (or a compromise is reached softening the bill's reach), sometimes at the last possible minute, as the bill moves through the legislative process. In my role as President of The Vintage Triumph Register (VTR), I am in contact with the folks at the SEMA Action Network (SEMASAN), which is an arm of SEMA (Specialty Equipment Market Association). SEMA is a trade association for manufacturers which produce parts for the motor vehicle aftermarket. A big portion of their member's customer base are the hot-rodders, street-rodders and antique/classic car enthusiasts. During 2007, their efforts helped win legislative victories in issues effecting old car enthusiasts in Arizona, Arkansas, California, Connecticut, Delaware, Florida, Georgia, Hawaii, Idaho, Illinois, Indiana, Iowa, Kentucky, Maryland, Massachusetts, Minnesota, Montana, Nevada, New Jersey, New York, Pennsylvania, Texas, Virginia, West Virginia and Wyoming. Colorado is on their radar, their last success there was in 2006 in a bill concerning vehicle smog inspections for kit cars. VTR will continue to work with SEMASAN in their efforts, assisting in any way it can. I encourage everyone to join SEMASAN, it's free to join as a hobbyist. Get involved. http://www.semasan.com (Home page of their site with lots of information, a valuable resource including drop down menus for zeroing in on issues you may be concerned about by State and instructions about how to contact your legislators.) Cheers and Happy New Year, Blake J. Discher, President Vintage Triumph Register http://www.vtr.org > JODY A MORRISON wrote: >> Hello to all... >> There is a movement afoot here in Colorado instigated by the Colorado >> Automobile Dealers (read, new car dealers) to get all pre-1990 >> cars off the >> roads here in Colorado. From janah at att.net Sun Dec 30 08:36:53 2007 From: janah at att.net (John Cyganowski) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 10:36:53 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Sealing Compound Message-ID: <000701c84af9$ce08e260$cb01a8c0@p4home> What does everyone like for sealing compound now that Permeatex Hylomar HPF is not available? John Cyg From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Dec 30 10:33:14 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:33:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Sealing Compound In-Reply-To: <000701c84af9$ce08e260$cb01a8c0@p4home> References: <000701c84af9$ce08e260$cb01a8c0@p4home> Message-ID: <8CA1921310164A6-EF4-5D26@mblk-d49.sysops.aol.com> John, I have used a product called "The Right Stuff" with great success, the first time to seal a big leak in my gearbox between the rear extension and the rest of the gearbox.? That repair was done by loosening the bolts and getting a half inch of play between the parts, cleaning as best I could, applying the product then putting everything back together.? Worked great with no leaks and still looked good when I added the OD to the gearbox and had to pull everything apart.? Worked so well that I used it when I added the OD on all the mating surfaces. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: John Cyganowski To: 6pack <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 10:36 am Subject: [6pack] Sealing Compound What does everyone like for sealing compound now that Permeatex Hylomar HPF is not available? John Cyg ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From jsvannorman at gmail.com Sun Dec 30 12:10:56 2007 From: jsvannorman at gmail.com (John VanNorman) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 14:10:56 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Speedo gauge glass In-Reply-To: <19031-477559CD-1219@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> References: <19031-477559CD-1219@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Message-ID: Thanks to everyone who responded about the speedo-glass. I think Ted should be able to hook me up. John V. From tr6taylor at webtv.net Sun Dec 30 13:48:00 2007 From: tr6taylor at webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 12:48:00 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Holiday resto progress and tube shock bump stop question In-Reply-To: "Andrew Packard" 's message of Sun, 30 Dec 2007 00:32:20 -0800 Message-ID: <19030-47780400-5062@storefull-3131.bay.webtv.net> Andy---Check the 6PACK article written by Mitch Seff in the Newsletter, a couple Issue back. Mitch has an illustration of bumpstop that he designed for your concern. It is designed to limit how far the (trailing arm) can droop. Dick From: apackard68 at comcast.net(Andrew Packard) ......For those of you running tube shock conversions (I have the three piece bracket type), here's an issue: I don't have a way to use a bump stop to limit downward travel of the swing arms. In an extreme Dukes of Hazard-type construction area jump, I'm concerned about the half-shaft contacting the frame as the shocks extend fully. Any solutions of feedback available on this one? Andy CD 6746L HVDA ______________________________________________ From acekraut11 at aol.com Sun Dec 30 14:59:25 2007 From: acekraut11 at aol.com (acekraut11 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:59:25 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Fwd: Holiday resto progress and tube shock bump stop question In-Reply-To: <8CA191FE3B2838A-EF4-5CD6@mblk-d49.sysops.aol.com> References: <20071230083851.0EDA5187A0A@autox.team.net> <8CA191FE3B2838A-EF4-5CD6@mblk-d49.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <8CA194660A562EF-EF4-65F3@mblk-d49.sysops.aol.com> Andy, That tab on the frame is most likely there as a tow hook or tie down, though it looks added, not factory. As for the rear shock conversion, I have a couple modifications that I plan when I redo my spare chassis.? One is to place a piece of square stock behind the conversion at a 45 degree angle between the top of the bracket down to the frame to prohibit flex of the top of the rear shock conversion bracket backwards in a arcing motion.? There are a few pictures at www.triumphowners.com/108.?; Scroll down to the pictures section and look for the title Rear Shock Conversion Problems, then look at the last picture.? Not a great picture but better than nothing. The second would be to form a Z type bracket to allow for a bump stop to be used.? Another lister has done this and my search for pictures I thought I kept turned up nothing.? Essentially it would attach at the top of the bracket and come down in roughly a Z motion to engage at the bump stop.? I am not convinced that bolting the Z bracket in would create enough strength to effectively work in a Dukes of Hazzard maneuver.? Maybe welding at the top and a bracket at the bottom might be necessary.? My two cents. Nice job so far by the way. If you decide to powder coat the primer I would be interested in a report on your adventure. Aaron Aaron Cropley 71 TR6 (Throttle Body Injection!) http://www.triumphowners.com/108 2002 Mini Cooper S Topsham, Maine -----Original Message----- From: Andrew Packard To: 6pack at autox.team.net Sent: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 3:32 am Subject: [6pack] Holiday resto progress and tube shock bump stop question Happy Holidays, list. I received the gift of time to spend in the garage from my wife this past week. Follow the attached link for photos of my progress. ________________________________________________________________________ More new features than ever. Check out the new AOL Mail ! - http://webmail.aol.com From Pimento73 at aol.com Sun Dec 30 15:21:37 2007 From: Pimento73 at aol.com (Pimento73 at aol.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 17:21:37 EST Subject: [6pack] Fly By at Mt. Rushmore Message-ID: In a message dated 12/29/2007 8:32:44 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, trsix74 at comcast.net writes: Is this the kind of thing that the list is intended for? Hello, I did not see a TR6 anywhere! I agree - what a waste - and I'll never get that 52 seconds of my life back! Cheers, Jack Mc **************************************See AOL's top rated recipes (http://food.aol.com/top-rated-recipes?NCID=aoltop00030000000004) From StagByTriumph at tscusa.org Sun Dec 30 16:16:59 2007 From: StagByTriumph at tscusa.org (Glenn A. Merrell) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 16:16:59 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Sealing Compound In-Reply-To: <8CA1921310164A6-EF4-5D26@mblk-d49.sysops.aol.com> References: <000701c84af9$ce08e260$cb01a8c0@p4home> <8CA1921310164A6-EF4-5D26@mblk-d49.sysops.aol.com> Message-ID: <477826EB.10007@tscusa.org> acekraut11 at aol.com wrote: > John, > > I have used a product called "The Right Stuff" with great success, t > > Aaron > > I also use "The Right Stuff", in the aerosol can as it is easier to use when the sealant is used infrequently. Just pull the cured plug out of the nozzle and you are ready to use. It is suitable for sealing just about any gasket surface except cylinder head gaskets and very hot areas like exhausts. This "stuff" is a soft cure material as opposed to Hylomar that never really sets up, just stays pliable and in some cases can even be reused. -- Glenn A. Merrell Chairman, Triumph Stag Club USA (2007-2009) The best trophies are miles on the odometer, stone chips in the paint, dead bugs on the windshield! From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Sun Dec 30 18:02:57 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 20:02:57 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Lightening Message-ID: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> Happy New Year folks...... While I have my engine and tranny out I hope to have my flywheel lightened and balanced. I seem to recall that there are "dangers" in taking too much weight off relative to impacting drivability. Can someone enlighten (sorry.....bad pun) me as to what is an acceptable flywheel weight for a "daily driver". I also found this one on eBay ( http://tinyurl.com/2dplo8 ). Any comments on this product? Thanks Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release Date: 12/30/2007 11:27 AM From rsh17 at msn.com Sun Dec 30 19:18:04 2007 From: rsh17 at msn.com (Richard Seaton) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 20:18:04 -0600 Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Lightening In-Reply-To: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: Look under projects for some info on the flywheel http://www.triumphowners.com/registry.cgi?sectionID=111014&vehicleID=92&i=1 Richard Seaton RSH17 at msn.com _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From trmarty at hotmail.com Sun Dec 30 20:19:09 2007 From: trmarty at hotmail.com (marty sukey) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 22:19:09 -0500 Subject: [6pack] TR6 tub removal In-Reply-To: References: Message-ID: Ok folks, just how big a job is it to pull the tub off a TR6. I am doing some work in the barn on the TR6 and as I pick out things on my wish list to do while I have things apart would be to do some frame re-enforcements. In my mind I always pictured pulling the tub off as a big project that once started would keep leading to one more next thing that would need done. Interior is out of the car right now. Can you leave the engine and drive train in the car and and just pull the tub off, then do what needs done and then just drop it back down and bolt it back on? It probably cant be that simple but I thought I would ask. What say ye experts out there? Thanks, Marty _________________________________________________________________ Get the power of Windows + Web with the new Windows Live. http://www.windowslive.com?ocid=TXT_TAGHM_Wave2_powerofwindows_122007 From ms6453 at optonline.net Sun Dec 30 20:37:14 2007 From: ms6453 at optonline.net (Mitch) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 22:37:14 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Flywheel Lightening In-Reply-To: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> References: <000001c84b48$e3d69ac0$210110ac@bobspc> Message-ID: <477863EA.1080706@optonline.net> Hi Bob, I have the Fidanza flywheel in for a few years and love it. All of the plus's of a lighter flywheel without the fear of 30 year old metallurgy flying apart. Besides, you'll never be able to lighten the steel flywheel enough to compare to the aluminum unit , 13lb w/the ring gear. If you go this route let Herman know , he had to make a special pilot bushing to work with the flywheel & W58 gear box. The new bushing also fits in the end of the crank. -- Mitch Seff Oceanside, N.Y. 75 TR6 SC http://www.triumphowners.com/384 From N197TR4 at cs.com Sun Dec 30 21:44:09 2007 From: N197TR4 at cs.com (N197TR4 at cs.com) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 23:44:09 EST Subject: [6pack] Flywheels Message-ID: Miscellaneous Thoughts Flywheels are a good subject. I am convinced that it is the best bang for the performance buck, when lighter than stock.....a very good article was done on this in the Six Pack Magazine. TR flywheels are notoriously heavy....there appeared to be a need for the market to be able to smoothly accelerate in fourth gear from 20 mph. maybe the Brits were thinking of the Americans and their Slush-O-Matics. Going on, some folks report stalling the car with a 10# flywheel on startup. Might be the X factor. (The difference between driving styles) Take a look at the offerings that Miata has for flywheels. One is 9#s for competition and one is 13# for street/autocross. That may validate my "X" factor. Perhaps. I prefer the 10# steel design for my TR4 #197, but that may just be personal preference. And I was able to acquire one for a reasonable price from Germany In extreme applications alloy flywheels have been known to come adrift. On the other hand, Greg Solow has run alloy flywheels under great duress for 25 years without a problem (in four cylinder TR engines) Another "X" factor condition? Otherwise, I would go with with a lightened flywheel done by a competent machinist with a good set up....Richard Seaton has a good sounding recommendation. Great price, too. Always a consideration for me. Finally, sometimes a good pair of jeans fit just right...and sometimes they dont. Might depend on what you stuff in them. Or as Forest Gump says.... Joe A > Hi Bob, > > I have the Fidanza flywheel in for a few years and love it. All of the > plus's of a lighter flywheel without the fear of 30 year old metallurgy > flying apart. Besides, you'll never be able to lighten the steel > flywheel enough to compare to the aluminum unit , 13lb w/the ring gear. > If you go this route let Herman know , he had to make a special pilot > bushing to work with the flywheel & W58 gear box. The new bushing also > fits in the end of the crank. > > -- > Mitch Seff > Oceanside, N.Y. > From apackard68 at comcast.net Sun Dec 30 22:19:47 2007 From: apackard68 at comcast.net (Andrew Packard) Date: Sun, 30 Dec 2007 21:19:47 -0800 Subject: [6pack] TR6 tub removal In-Reply-To: Message-ID: <20071231052618.145A8187BEB@autox.team.net> With a helper or two, you can separate the body from the stage you are in less than two hours. An impact wrench can be helpful on extracting multiple body mount bolts. You can leave the engine and drive drain in place, disconnect the body at the 21 different attachment points and disconnect all chassis to body connections. I always forget the heater valve connection when I do it. Pulling the entire lower steering column from the rack is also helpful. You will likely have to remove most of the intake side of the engine, at least the carbs for sure, for clearance of the R inner fender. If you leave the doors and all glass on the car, the body will weigh about 600 or so lbs. Totally stripped, you're looking at less than 300 lbs. An overhead hoist or even a shop crane using the wheel well seat belt mounts can be used and perhaps a heavy strap underneath the front inner fenders. If you are in a barn, I imagine you have some hefty rafters to use for hoisting. Be sure to note all the spacers and rubber pads at each mounting point when removing the tub. If you're putting it right back on the same chassis, you shouldn't have any new alignment problems if the spacers stay the same. As far as shipwrights disease taking hold, you're on your own. I know most of us don't have the antidote for that poison. Andy -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+apackard68=comcast.net at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of marty sukey Sent: Sunday, December 30, 2007 7:19 PM To: Triumph List; 6 Digest Subject: [6pack] TR6 tub removal Ok folks, just how big a job is it to pull the tub off a TR6. I am doing some work in the barn on the TR6 and as I pick out things on my wish list to do while I have things apart would be to do some frame re-enforcements. In my mind I always pictured pulling the tub off as a big project that once started would keep leading to one more next thing that would need done. Interior is out of the car right now. Can you leave the engine and drive train in the car and and just pull the tub off, then do what needs done and then just drop it back down and bolt it back on? It probably cant be that simple but I thought I would ask. What say ye experts out there? Thanks, Marty From 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org Mon Dec 31 06:31:49 2007 From: 75TR6 at tr6.danielsonfamily.org (Bob Danielson) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 08:31:49 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Cool New Triumph Site Message-ID: <001b01c84bb1$8135f230$210110ac@bobspc> What better way to start the year then to brag about a cool new web site that I got to work on................and it's totally Triumph related. Rick Patton, of TBI fame, asked me a few months ago if I'd be interested in building him a new site. I jumped at the chance and after about 2 months of working with Rick and List Member's Aaron Cropley & Dave Friedlander on design and content, we've gone live! You can check it out at http://www.pattonmachine.com/ Comments always welcome. Happy New Year! Bob Bob Danielson 1975 TR6 CF38503U Running w/ Throttle Body Injection http://tr6.danielsonfamily.org No virus found in this outgoing message. Checked by AVG. Version: 7.5.516 / Virus Database: 269.17.12/1203 - Release Date: 12/30/2007 11:27 AM From 6parts at charter.net Mon Dec 31 12:04:02 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 14:04:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 Message-ID: <006201c84bdf$e879dd70$03d30c47@alan> This is my age old question: When adjusting the valves where do the numbers start?? Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front , where the radiator is? Thanks Al From stan.foster at hp.com Mon Dec 31 12:41:23 2007 From: stan.foster at hp.com (Foster, Stan) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 19:41:23 +0000 Subject: [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 In-Reply-To: <006201c84bdf$e879dd70$03d30c47@alan> References: <006201c84bdf$e879dd70$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FD4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Al, numbering is universally starting at the front of the engine closest to the radiator Number one cylinder, number one piston, number one plug, number one main bearing etc If you look at the valve adjusting section in Bentley page 85, section 12.29.48 is actually says "3. Counting from the front of the engine.." Stan -----Original Message----- From: 6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net [mailto:6pack-bounces+stan.foster=hp.com at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Alan Salvatore Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 2:04 PM To: triumphs at autox.team.net; 6pack Subject: [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 This is my age old question: When adjusting the valves where do the numbers start?? Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front , where the radiator is? Thanks Al From 6parts at charter.net Mon Dec 31 15:12:02 2007 From: 6parts at charter.net (Alan Salvatore) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 17:12:02 -0500 Subject: [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 References: <006201c84bdf$e879dd70$03d30c47@alan> Message-ID: <006b01c84bfa$2b99b520$03d30c47@alan> Thanks all, Got it figured out. Al ----- Original Message ----- From: "Alan Salvatore" <6parts at charter.net> To: ; "6pack" <6pack at autox.team.net> Sent: Monday, December 31, 2007 2:04 PM Subject: [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 > This is my age old question: > > When adjusting the valves where do the numbers start?? > > Is number one toward the seat compartment or is it at the front , where > the > radiator is? > > Thanks > > Al From Rusd at sitestar.net Mon Dec 31 15:25:37 2007 From: Rusd at sitestar.net (Dave Russell) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 15:25:37 -0700 Subject: [6pack] Valve numbering tr6 In-Reply-To: <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FD4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> References: <006201c84bdf$e879dd70$03d30c47@alan> <7516319594FEBC47B1205CE87EEE54071AFBCE4FD4@G3W0076.americas.hpqcorp.net> Message-ID: <47796C61.8080400@sitestar.net> Unless you have a Jag, in which case #6 is toward the radiator. Lot of marine engines have #1 toward the flywheel also. D Foster, Stan wrote: >Al, numbering is universally starting at the front of the engine closest to >the radiator >Stan From bgladish at roadrunner.com Mon Dec 31 16:47:19 2007 From: bgladish at roadrunner.com (Brian Gladish) Date: Mon, 31 Dec 2007 15:47:19 -0800 Subject: [6pack] Lost storage and reality sets in... Message-ID: <004301c84c07$7ba06390$ba00a8c0@hiro> Folks, I have lost my storage unit in Anaheim, California (land re-zoned for condos & retail), and I finally realize that I'm never going to get to this project. I have a 1968 TR-250 which has never run (PO believed crank was broken) but has been stored inside since I purchased it (1985). I have until the last day of January to find a home for it and would be happy to sell it to a 6-Pack member, who will bring it back to life. The paint is lousy and some of the chrome is bent. It has wire wheels and, now, square tires (not on blocks). I have a spare 6-cylinder motor which can supply a spare crank or could be built as a replacement motor that I will include. The car has TR-6 seats, but I have the originals (need to be recovered/repadded). My initial thought is to offer the package (car and motor) for $3,000. If any of you find this to be insanely high or low (seems doubtful), please let me know so that I can adjust my expectations. Suggestions of other places to advertise would also be appreciated. If you are interested in the car and Anaheim is a doable trip for you, contact me, and we can arrange a meeting (I live in Carlsbad, about 90 miles south, so I can't just be there in a minute). To keep traffic off the list please me e-mail at b.gladish at computer.org or call me on my cell phone - (562) 619-5145 - to get a hold of me. Thanks, Brian Gladish