Subject: Re: [TR] TR3 Question -

From: bill beecher <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 28 Dec 2020 14:30:31 -0600

Sound like crud in the front carb.  Starving just enough for #1 but not #2, pull your float bowl cover and be sure everything is clean inside.   If you haven’t messed with timing or other electrics, the long time parked probably allowed debris to settle in the bloat bowl or jets.  

Bill
TS30800L

#dontkillgrandma

On Dec 28, 2020, at 1:56 PM, Perry Hammock <[email-masked]> wrote:

Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car practically daily in decent weather.

When I got back, it wouldn’t start without starting fluid, and ran terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.  Needed choke to run.  Underivable.

So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.  Put some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting, but running was really bad.  Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (have pertronix) etc.  seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.  Checked wiring - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG cap with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.

Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 across the board.  Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough to drive - went fine.

OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane booster finally worked its way to the cars.  But, still, cylinder 2 doesn’t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.  Is this a function of the firing order?  I cant imagine what it could be - cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.  Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and from the cap.

Any ideas?  Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!

Perry
1960 tr3a overdrive
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From: "Andrew S. Mace" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 02:50:37 +0000 (UTC)

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 Perry, I would try swapping the plugs to different cylinders and see if th=
e problem follows what currently is the #2 plug to whatever cylinder you pu=
t that plug in.
=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Perry Hammock <[email-masked]>
To: [email-masked]
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 2:55 pm
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -

Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed withou=
t any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car practica=
lly daily in decent weather.

When I got back, it wouldn=E2=80=99t start without starting fluid, and ran =
terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.=C2=A0 Needed choke to run.=C2=A0 =
Underivable.

So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.=C2=A0 Pu=
t some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting=
, but running was really bad.=C2=A0 Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timin=
g (have pertronix) etc.=C2=A0 seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.=C2=A0 Checked wir=
ing - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG=
 cap with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires =
one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.

Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 =
across the board.=C2=A0 Got it running again, got better, then ran good eno=
ugh to drive - went fine.

OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane=
 booster finally worked its way to the cars.=C2=A0 But, still, cylinder 2 d=
oesn=E2=80=99t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.=C2=A0 Is=
 this a function of the firing order?=C2=A0 I cant imagine what it could be=
 - cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.=C2=A0 Has big spark, as do all th=
e plugs, and from the cap.

Any ideas?=C2=A0 Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!

Perry
1960 tr3a overdrive

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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">Perry, I would try swapping the plugs to different c=
ylinders and see if the problem follows what currently is the #2 plug to wh=
atever cylinder you put that plug in.</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----=
Original Message-----<br>
From: Perry Hammock &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: [email-masked]<br>
Sent: Mon, Dec 28, 2020 2:55 pm<br>
Subject: [TR] TR3 Question -<br>
<br>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was =
put to bed without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive=
 the car practically daily in decent weather.<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">When I got back, it wouldn=E2=80=99t start without startin=
g fluid, and ran terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.&nbsp; Needed cho=
ke to run.&nbsp; Underivable.<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">So I went through what it could be - figured something on =
startup.&nbsp; Put some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oo=
mph while sitting, but running was really bad.&nbsp; Changed plugs, checked=
 fuel pump, timing (have pertronix) etc.&nbsp; seemed like cylinder 2 was n=
ot firing -<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.&=
nbsp; Checked wiring - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor =
cap (I use the MG cap with push in connectors), then found that if I remove=
d the plug wires one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.<b=
r>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compres=
sion - 133 - 137 across the board.&nbsp; Got it running again, got better, =
then ran good enough to drive - went fine.<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srta=
ilizer and octane booster finally worked its way to the cars.&nbsp; But, st=
ill, cylinder 2 doesn=E2=80=99t affect engine running as much if spark wire=
 pulled.&nbsp; Is this a function of the firing order?&nbsp; I cant imagine=
 what it could be - cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.&nbsp; Has big sp=
ark, as do all the plugs, and from the cap.<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Any ideas?&nbsp; Sorry for the length of this post and tha=
nks in advance!<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr"><br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">Perry<br>
</div>

<div dir=3D"ltr">1960 tr3a overdrive</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>

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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 29 Dec 2020 06:34:06 -0700

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One possibility is a stuck float in one of the carbs (though it may have
freed up since it is now running better).

A quick check for that when it happens is to remove the top of the float
bowl for a look.

An IR temp gun can also be used on the exhaust manifold right after start
up... any cylinders that aren't performing well will have significantly
lower temperatures.

Geo

On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 12:56 PM Perry Hammock <[email-masked]> wrote:

> Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed
> without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car
> practically daily in decent weather.
>
> When I got back, it wouldn=E2=80=99t start without starting fluid, and ra=
n
> terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.  Needed choke to run.
> Underivable.
>
> So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.  Put
> some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting=
,
> but running was really bad.  Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (ha=
ve
> pertronix) etc.  seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
> Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.  Checked wiring
> - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG c=
ap
> with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one
> at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.
>
> Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 13=
7
> across the board.  Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough
> to drive - went fine.
>
> OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and
> octane booster finally worked its way to the cars.  But, still, cylinder =
2
> doesn=E2=80=99t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.  Is t=
his a
> function of the firing order?  I cant imagine what it could be - cant be
> carb - feeds number 1 as well.  Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and
> from the cap.
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">One possibility is a stuck float in one of the carbs (tho=
ugh it may have freed up since it is now running better).<div dir=3D"auto">=
<br></div><div dir=3D"auto">A quick check for that when it happens is to re=
move the top of the float bowl for a look.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">An IR temp gun can also be used on the exhaust manifold =
right after start up... any cylinders that aren&#39;t performing well will =
have significantly lower temperatures.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><di=
v dir=3D"auto">Geo</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"lt=
r" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 12:56 PM Perry Hammock &lt;<a=
 href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br></=
div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-lef=
t:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Was out of town for a couple months and =
my little TR3 was put to bed without any preparation (left town in kind of =
a hurry, and drive the car practically daily in decent weather.<br>
<br>
When I got back, it wouldn=E2=80=99t start without starting fluid, and ran =
terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.=C2=A0 Needed choke to run.=C2=A0 =
Underivable.<br>
<br>
So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.=C2=A0 Pu=
t some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting=
, but running was really bad.=C2=A0 Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timin=
g (have pertronix) etc.=C2=A0 seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -<br>
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.=C2=A0 Checked wir=
ing - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG=
 cap with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires =
one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.<br>
<br>
Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 =
across the board.=C2=A0 Got it running again, got better, then ran good eno=
ugh to drive - went fine.<br>
<br>
OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane=
 booster finally worked its way to the cars.=C2=A0 But, still, cylinder 2 d=
oesn=E2=80=99t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.=C2=A0 Is=
 this a function of the firing order?=C2=A0 I cant imagine what it could be=
 - cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.=C2=A0 Has big spark, as do all th=
e plugs, and from the cap.<br>
<br>
Any ideas?=C2=A0 Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!<b=
r>
<br>
Perry<br>
1960 tr3a overdrive<br>
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