Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions

From: Randy and Valerie DeRuiter <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:01:58 +0000

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Hi Will-

Moss-Europe still shows the kit for the TR2-4 live axle cars.
https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspens=
ion/rear-suspension/telescopic-conversion-bracket-kits-tr2-4a.html

It seems a bit involved with brackets needed to be welded to the differenti=
al axle tubes.

A couple of thoughts on the rattle - I'd check the shock links very careful=
ly as one step.  The rubber inside the link can perish so you can get a rat=
tle even though the link looks ok.  The number one problem I had was the le=
ver shock mounts would come loose and the shock would move a bit creating a=
 noise.  Those bolts are hard to access, some use a socket headed bolt to g=
et better torque on them.

If you are convinced its the shocks, you could test the theory by removing =
them and driving around for a while - the car will bounce more but if it st=
ill rattles it means the shocks weren't the problem.  I had a rattle from t=
he muffler hitting the frame which might be a possibility.

Cheers
Randy

________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Will Daehler =
<[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 10:34 AM
To: [email-masked] <[email-masked]>
Subject: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with t=
elescopic rear shock conversions

When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear a=
rea of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed t=
he problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the=
 Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss cata=
log I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these bracke=
ts that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longe=
r Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could hav=
e been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn=92t work.  I was =
hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic th=
at they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and pro=
prietary set ups.

Will Daehler

63 TR4

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Hi Will-</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Moss-Europe still shows the kit for the TR2-4 live axle cars.&nbsp;&nbsp;</=
div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<a href=3D"https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steer=
ing-suspension/rear-suspension/telescopic-conversion-bracket-kits-tr2-4a.ht=
ml" id=3D"LPlnk">https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a=
/steering-suspension/rear-suspension/telescopic-conversion-bracket-kits-tr2=
-4a.html</a></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
It seems a bit involved with brackets needed to be welded to the differenti=
al axle tubes.</div>
<div class=3D"_Entity _EType_OWALinkPreview _EId_OWALinkPreview _EReadonly_=
1"></div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
A couple of thoughts on the rattle - I'd check the shock links very careful=
ly as one step.&nbsp; The rubber inside the link can perish so you can get =
a rattle even though the link looks ok.&nbsp; The number one problem I had =
was the lever shock mounts would come loose
 and the shock would move a bit creating a noise.&nbsp; Those bolts are har=
d to access, some use a socket headed bolt to get better torque on them.</d=
iv>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
If you are convinced its the shocks, you could test the theory by removing =
them and driving around for a while - the car will bounce more but if it st=
ill rattles it means the shocks weren't the problem.&nbsp; I had a rattle f=
rom the muffler hitting the frame which
 might be a possibility.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Cheers</div>
<div style=3D"font-family: Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif; font-size: 12pt;=
 color: rgb(0, 0, 0);">
Randy</div>
<div>
<div id=3D"appendonsend"></div>
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or:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
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<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font face=3D"Calibri, sans-serif" co=
lor=3D"#000000" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Will Daehler &lt;will.daehler@gmai=
l.com&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 10:34 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> [email-masked] &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks=
 with telescopic rear shock conversions</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div lang=3D"EN-US">
<div class=3D"x_WordSection1">
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt=
; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear a=
rea of my car.&nbsp; I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fi=
xed the problem a couple of times.&nbsp; I have replaced the springs and re=
filled the Armstrong shocks.&nbsp; I have poked
 around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for repla=
cing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock ab=
sorbers to. But the kits are NLS.&nbsp; No Longer Supplied.&nbsp; I was won=
dering why the kits &nbsp;were discontinued.&nbsp; It
 could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn=92t wor=
k.&nbsp; I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience o=
n this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have=
 custom and proprietary set ups.</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt=
; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
&nbsp;</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt=
; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
Will Daehler</p>
<p class=3D"x_MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in 0in 0.0001pt; font-size: 11pt=
; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;">
63 TR4 &nbsp;</p>
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 10:50:17 -0800

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Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may 
or may not be relevant to your situation.

There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 
and I assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go 
through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket 
that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a single plate 
bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.

Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt 
with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably 
what I would do.

A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see 
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe 
shock version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at 
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/  It looks like a 
sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the 
instructions from their website.

I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a 
frame attachments.

I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this 
design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the 
frame, including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of 
other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have 
this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If 
you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm 
through its full range of motion and you will probably see the top of 
the shock mount move front to rear.

After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single 
plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for 
the shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length 
of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of 
the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other 
is the more important addition and goes from the top of the shock 
bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops 
any front to rear motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car 
isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find my pictures.

Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the 
single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket 
from the top of the shock mount to the frame.

    Tube Shock Conversion Notes

Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:

 > Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or 
experience with
 > the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is 
listed on
 > page 11 in the summer catalog.......

I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit, 
taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from 
someone who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep 
Boys for $12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the 
$189 price tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at 
autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first 
overall at Triumphest in 1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for 
me in the rear, though I may just not know any better.  The PO put 
Koni's on the front.

Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because 
my lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the 
heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this 
serious thought.

Disadvantages of this design:
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel 
is the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for 
free replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as 
there's oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock 
to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that 
holds the shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I 
just discovered several broken welds including both rear differential 
mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock 
mount. The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for 
the DPO.  I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think 
it aggravated the problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)

- You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the 
bracket if you have lots of camber or weak springs.

Safety considerations:
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of 
the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  
Your shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a 
box of them, but any nut should work.

- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the 
right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any 
indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 
205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.

If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the 
picture.  Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  
It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.

The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets 
per side. One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by 
the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in 
the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.

I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening 
forces need to go to the frame.

Brian

On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:
>
> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right 
> rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I 
> have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs 
> and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking 
> through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong 
> shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. 
> But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the 
> kits  were discontinued. It could have been that they caused damage to 
> the frame, or just didn’t work.  I was hoping somebody had any 
> first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could 
> discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary 
> set ups.
>
> Will Daehler
>
> 63 TR4
>
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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    Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this
    may or may not be relevant to your situation.  <br>
    <br>
    There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the
    TR6 and I assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets
    that go through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A
    bracket that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a
    single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.<br>
    <br>
    Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks
    rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is
    probably what I would do.<br>
    <br>
    A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits">https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits</a> - the Monroe
    shock version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at
    <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/">http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/</a>  It looks
    like a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read
    the instructions from their website.<br>
    <br>
    I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a
    frame attachments.<br>
    <br>
    I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this
    design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of
    the frame, including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images
    attached of other people's cars discovered at a local club tech
    clinic.  If you have this design, I recommend you check the frame
    cross member regularly.  If you have the rear spring out for any
    reason, run the trailing arm through its full range of motion and
    you will probably see the top of the shock mount move front to rear.<br>
    <br>
    After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the
    single plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top
    mount for the shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One
    is a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts
    near the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side
    stability.  The other is the more important addition and goes from
    the top of the shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg
    angle.  This one stops any front to rear motion of the shock
    bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now
    and I can't find my pictures.<br>
    <br>
    Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the
    single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added
    bracket from the top of the shock mount to the frame.<br>
    <br>
    <center style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-indent:
      0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: 2;
      word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;
      text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">
      <h2>Tube Shock Conversion Notes</h2>
    </center>
    <span style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial; display: inline
      !important; float: none;">Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:</span>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">&gt; Would like to know
      if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience with<br>
      &gt; the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025.
      It is listed on<br>
      &gt; page 11 in the summer catalog.......</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">I put similar brackets
      on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit, taking about 30
      minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone who made
      them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for
      $12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the
      $189 price tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at
      autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and
      first overall at Triumphest in 1998).  The cheap shock seem to
      work fine for me in the rear, though I may just not know any
      better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Installation made a
      tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my lever
      shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy
      duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this
      serious thought.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Disadvantages of this
      design:<br>
      - When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm
      travel is the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year
      (exchanged for free replacement).  I think the other one may also
      need replacement, as there's oil on the tube.  This tension is
      transferred through the shock to the bracket, at a slight angle,
      torquing the frame cross member that holds the shocks and rear
      differential mounts.  I mention this because I just discovered
      several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and
      the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount. 
      The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for
      the DPO.  I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but I
      think it aggravated the problem.  (Any comments on this from
      others?)</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">- You are limited in
      tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket if you
      have lots of camber or weak springs.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Safety considerations:<br>
      - The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each
      end of the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock
      come undone.  Your shocks should be double nutted.  I used a
      nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should work.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">- Check the tires and
      brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the right side
      recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any
      indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I
      run 205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">If your into welding,
      you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.  Drop me an
      e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's
      Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">The Moss kit is an
      effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per side. 
      One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the
      fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step
      in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">I'd always avoid a shock
      that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces need to go to
      the frame.</p>
    <p style="color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: &quot;Times New
      Roman&quot;; font-size: medium; font-style: normal;
      font-variant-ligatures: normal; font-variant-caps: normal;
      font-weight: 400; letter-spacing: normal; orphans: 2; text-align:
      start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space:
      normal; widows: 2; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; text-decoration-style:
      initial; text-decoration-color: initial;">Brian<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <br>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler
      wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
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      <div class="WordSection1">
        <p class="MsoNormal">When going over bumps in my TR4 I have
          quite a rattle from the right rear area of my car.  I have
          poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed the problem
          a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled
          the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking
          through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the
          Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount
          shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer
          Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued. 
          It could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or
          just didn’t work.  I was hoping somebody had any first-hand
          knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss.
          I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary
          set ups.<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">Will Daehler<o:p></o:p></p>
        <p class="MsoNormal">63 TR4  <o:p></o:p></p>
      </div>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
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From: Peter Ryner <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 19:08:15 +0000

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	boundary="_000_BN7PR04MB4212D6C1D8BC712F37B2A401DECF0BN7PR04MB4212namp_"

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Agree with Randy,
Check the shock mounts.  Had the same problem on my TR3.  Would get noise o=
n bumps and couldn't fine the problem  Finally got loose enough that I coul=
d move the shock.  Mount holes were rounded out by then.  ISTR that there a=
re no lock washers on the mount bolts.
Pete

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Randy and Val=
erie DeRuiter
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 1:02 PM
To: Will Daehler <[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks wi=
th telescopic rear shock conversions

Hi Will-

Cheers
Randy

[email-masked]>>

When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear a=
rea of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed t=
he problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the=
 Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss cata=
log I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these bracke=
ts that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longe=
r Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could hav=
e been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn't work.  I was ho=
ping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that=
 they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and propr=
ietary set ups.

Will Daehler

63 TR4

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<body lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple" style=3D"word-wrap:brea=
k-word">
<div class=3D"WordSection1">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Agree with Randy,<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Check the shock mounts.&nbsp; Had the same problem o=
n my TR3.&nbsp; Would get noise on bumps and couldn&#8217;t fine the proble=
m&nbsp; Finally got loose enough that I could move the shock.&nbsp; Mount h=
oles were rounded out by then.&nbsp; ISTR that there are no lock
 washers on the mount bolts.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">Pete<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<div>
<div style=3D"border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]=
m.net&gt; <b>On Behalf Of
</b>Randy and Valerie DeRuiter<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 1:02 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Will Daehler &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; [email-masked]=
.net<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever sh=
ocks with telescopic rear shock conversions<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Hi Will=
-<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Moss-Eu=
rope still shows the kit for the TR2-4 live axle cars.&nbsp;&nbsp;<o:p></o:=
p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><a href=
=3D"https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-sus=
pension/rear-suspension/telescopic-conversion-bracket-kits-tr2-4a.html">htt=
ps://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr2-4a/steering-suspension=
/rear-suspension/telescopic-conversion-bracket-kits-tr2-4a.html</a><o:p></o=
:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black">It seem=
s a bit involved with brackets needed to be welded to the differential axle=
 tubes.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black">A coupl=
e of thoughts on the rattle - I'd check the shock links very carefully as o=
ne step.&nbsp; The rubber inside the link can perish so you can get a rattl=
e even though the link looks ok.&nbsp; The number
 one problem I had was the lever shock mounts would come loose and the shoc=
k would move a bit creating a noise.&nbsp; Those bolts are hard to access, =
some use a socket headed bolt to get better torque on them.<o:p></o:p></spa=
n></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black">If you =
are convinced its the shocks, you could test the theory by removing them an=
d driving around for a while - the car will bounce more but if it still rat=
tles it means the shocks weren't the
 problem.&nbsp; I had a rattle from the muffler hitting the frame which mig=
ht be a possibility.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Cheers<=
o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black">Randy<o=
:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;color:black"><o:p>&n=
bsp;</o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div class=3D"MsoNormal" align=3D"center" style=3D"text-align:center">
<hr size=3D"2" width=3D"98%" align=3D"center">
</div>
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg">
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><b><span style=3D"color:black">From:</span></b><span=
 style=3D"color:black"> Triumphs &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@aut=
ox.team.net">[email-masked]</a>&gt; on behalf of Will Daeh=
ler &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a=
>&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 10:34 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
et</a> &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
et</a>&gt;<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks=
 with telescopic rear shock conversions</span>
<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class=3D"MsoNormal">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<p class=3D"xmsonormal">When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a ratt=
le from the right rear area of my car.&nbsp; I have poked around by the axl=
e, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.&nbsp; I have rep=
laced the springs and refilled the Armstrong
 shocks.&nbsp; I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog I=
 noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets th=
at you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.&nbsp; No Longe=
r Supplied.&nbsp; I was wondering why the kits
 &nbsp;were discontinued.&nbsp; It could have been that they caused damage =
to the frame, or just didn&#8217;t work.&nbsp; I was hoping somebody had an=
y first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss.=
 I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary
 set ups.<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"xmsonormal">&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"xmsonormal">Will Daehler<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class=3D"xmsonormal">63 TR4 &nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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From: "Jim Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 15:00:09 -0500

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I've done the tube shock and won't do again for the reasons in the pictures.
I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are
great.  I even have the uprated.  I DO NOT recommend them for a TR4 as they
are really hard.  Rides like a buck board with the leaf springs. I am
switching out to a stock rebuild.  Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get
uprated if you are racing.  

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

61 3A

62 4

67 4A

75 6

81 8 

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Brian Kemp
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM
To: Will Daehler <[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
with telescopic rear shock conversions

Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or
may not be relevant to your situation.  

There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I
assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go through the
body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the
body with no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the
lever shock mount.

Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks rebuilt
with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is probably what I
would do.

A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits - the Monroe shock
version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/  It looks like a
sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the
instructions from their website.

I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a frame
attachments.

I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design
leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame,
including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of other
people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have this
design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If you have
the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm through its full
range of motion and you will probably see the top of the shock mount move
front to rear.

After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single
plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top mount for the
shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is a length of 1"
angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the top of the
bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  The other is the
more important addition and goes from the top of the shock bracket rearward
to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one stops any front to rear
motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible
right now and I can't find my pictures.

Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the single
plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from the
top of the shock mount to the frame.

Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion: 

> Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience
with
> the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is listed
on

I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit,
taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from someone
who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for
$12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price
tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events
(2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in
1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may
just not know any better.  The PO put Koni's on the front.

Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's because my
lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty
rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give this serious
thought.

Disadvantages of this design:
- When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is
the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free
replacement).  I think the other one may also need replacement, as there's
oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred through the shock to the
bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds the
shocks and rear differential mounts.  I mention this because I just
discovered several broken welds including both rear differential mounts and
the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock mount.  The car
had the differential reinforcing brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't
know if the shock conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the
problem.  (Any comments on this from others?)

Safety considerations:
- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of the
shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  Your
shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a box of
them, but any nut should work.

- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on the
right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see any
indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run 205/65
tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.

If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the picture.
Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  It's off 50's
Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.

The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular brackets per
side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the body by the
fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The first step in the
instructions was to remove the fuel tank.

I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening forces
need to go to the frame.

Brian

When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear
area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed
the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the
Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss
catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these
brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No
Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could
have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn't work.  I was
hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic
that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and
proprietary set ups.

Will Daehler

63 TR4  

 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>I&#8217;ve done the tube shock =
and won&#8217;t do again for the reasons in the pictures.&nbsp; I have =
rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are =
great.&nbsp; I even have the uprated.&nbsp; I DO NOT recommend them for =
a TR4 as they are really hard.&nbsp; Rides like a buck board with the =
leaf springs. I am switching out to a stock rebuild.&nbsp; Jane at =
Worldwide mentioned only get uprated if you are racing.&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Jim Henningsen<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Ocala FL<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>61 =
3A<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>62 4<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>67 4A<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>75 =
6<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>81 8 <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Triumphs =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Brian =
Kemp<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
Will Daehler &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating =
replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock =
conversions<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Will - I'm =
not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or may not =
be relevant to your situation.&nbsp; <br><br>There are at least three =
styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 and I assume the 4A.&nbsp; =
The one with three triangular brackets that go through the body (likely =
the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the body with =
no frame attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the lever =
shock mount.<br><br>Also watch for feedback on people that just get the =
lever shocks rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.&nbsp; If I was starting =
over, that is probably what I would do.<br><br>A sample of the three =
plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see <a =
href=3D"https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits">https://m=
ossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits</a> - the Monroe shock =
version for the 4A is available.&nbsp; They have an article at <a =
href=3D"http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/">http://ww=
w.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/</a>&nbsp; It looks like a =
sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.&nbsp; Read the =
instructions from their website.<br><br>I do not recommend the bracket =
that just bolts to the body without a frame attachments.<br><br>I used =
the single plate version because it was much easier, but this design =
leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame, =
including mine.&nbsp; See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of =
other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.&nbsp; If you =
have this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member =
regularly.&nbsp; If you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the =
trailing arm through its full range of motion and you will probably see =
the top of the shock mount move front to rear.<br><br>After having my =
frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the single plate design =
available from some vendors.&nbsp; I extended the top mount for the =
shock back about two inches and added two braces.&nbsp; One is a length =
of 1&quot; angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near the =
top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.&nbsp; =
The other is the more important addition and goes from the top of the =
shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.&nbsp; This =
one stops any front to rear motion of the shock bracket.&nbsp; =
Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find =
my pictures.<br><br>Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.&nbsp; =
The 5-6025 kit is the single plate design that in my opinion needs at =
least the added bracket from the top of the shock mount to the =
frame.<br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><h2 align=3Dcenter =
style=3D'text-align:center'><span style=3D'color:black'>Tube Shock =
Conversion Notes<o:p></o:p></span></h2><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:</span> =
<o:p></o:p></p><p><span style=3D'color:black'>&gt; Would like to know if =
anybody on the list has any knowledge or experience with<br>&gt; the =
shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #&nbsp; 5-6025. It is =
listed on<br>&gt; page 11 in the summer =
catalog.......<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: normal;orphans: =
2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>I put similar brackets on my car.&nbsp; They are =
the easiest design to fit, taking about 30 minutes to install.&nbsp; I =
purchased my brackets from someone who made them for his car for =
$40.&nbsp; I bought the shocks from Pep Boys for $12.95 each.&nbsp; The =
VB shocks must be pretty good to command the $189 price tag.&nbsp; My =
driving can often be aggressive, especially at autocross events (2nd =
place in class at the Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in =
1998).&nbsp; The cheap shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, =
though I may just not know any better.&nbsp; The PO put Koni's on the =
front.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: =
normal;orphans: 2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Installation made a tremendous improvement in my =
car, but that's because my lever shocks were dead.&nbsp; I've heard lots =
of good things about the heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.&nbsp; =
Doing it again, I'd give this serious thought.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: normal;orphans: =
2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Disadvantages of this design:<br>- When the car is =
in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm travel is the tube =
shock.&nbsp; I had a shock fail after only a year (exchanged for free =
replacement).&nbsp; I think the other one may also need replacement, as =
there's oil on the tube.&nbsp; This tension is transferred through the =
shock to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member =
that holds the shocks and rear differential mounts.&nbsp; I mention this =
because I just discovered several broken welds including both rear =
differential mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the =
right shock mount.&nbsp; The car had the differential reinforcing =
brackets installed for the DPO.&nbsp; I don't know if the shock =
conversion caused this, but I think it aggravated the problem.&nbsp; =
(Any comments on this from others?)<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: normal;orphans: =
2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>- You are limited in tire width to 205 series =
tires, which may rub the bracket if you have lots of camber or weak =
springs.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: =
normal;orphans: 2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Safety considerations:<br>- The Gabrial shocks I =
purchased only have a single nut on each end of the shock. The guy I got =
the brackets through had a shock come undone.&nbsp; Your shocks should =
be double nutted.&nbsp; I used a nylocs because I had a box of them, but =
any nut should work.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: normal;orphans: =
2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>- Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.&nbsp; =
I have a little bit on the right side recently, but nothing I'm =
concerned about.&nbsp; I can't see any indication on the tire, just some =
rubber dust on the bracket.&nbsp; I run 205/65 tires and will adjust the =
camber on the right tire.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: normal;orphans: =
2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>If your into welding, you can make your own =
brackets looking at the picture.&nbsp; Drop me an e-mail and I'll look =
up the shock number again.&nbsp; It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs =
if I remember correctly.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: normal;orphans: =
2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>The Moss kit is an effort to install.&nbsp; It has =
three triangular brackets per side.&nbsp; One to the standard shock =
mount, the second inside the body by the fuel tank, and the third in the =
wheel well area.&nbsp; The first step in the instructions was to remove =
the fuel tank.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: normal;orphans: =
2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the =
body.&nbsp; The dampening forces need to go to the =
frame.<o:p></o:p></span></p><p style=3D'normal;font-variant-caps: =
normal;orphans: 2;text-align:start;widows: 2;-webkit-text-stroke-width:
      0px;text-decoration-thickness: initial;text-decoration-style:
      initial;text-decoration-color: initial;word-spacing:0px'><span =
style=3D'color:black'>Brian<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><p class=3DMsoNormal>When =
going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear =
area of my car.&nbsp; I have poked around by the axle, and thought I =
have fixed the problem a couple of times.&nbsp; I have replaced the =
springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.&nbsp; I have poked around. =
While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing =
the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock =
absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.&nbsp; No Longer Supplied.&nbsp; I =
was wondering why the kits &nbsp;were discontinued.&nbsp; It could have =
been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn&#8217;t =
work.&nbsp; I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or =
experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing =
group all have custom and proprietary set ups.<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Will =
Daehler<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>63 TR4 =
&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>** =
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
**<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html<=
/a><o:p></o:p></pre><pre>Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/piper=
mail/triumphs</a>&nbsp; <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p>=
</o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]=
">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><o=
:p></o:p></pre></blockquote><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p></div></body></html>
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From: Rye Livingston <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 12:12:42 -0800

--===============2838892281241775444==
	boundary="Apple-Mail=_2FA9AE23-FDBB-4394-AA9C-8FD3E7159A4C"

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	charset=utf-8

For my 1960 TR3A I upgraded my stock lever shocks to the adjustable =
lever shocks from World Wide Auto Parts, and I love them.  There are =
instructions where to set it for stock ride, so you have the option to =
make them softer or stiffer than stock.  I=E2=80=99m running mine a bit =
stiffer, along with a 7/8=E2=80=9D front sway bar and 205/60R15 Goodrich =
tires on 6 1/2=E2=80=9D Panasport wheels and the handling is excellent.

Rye Livingston
Activities Chairman
Triumph Travelers Sports Car Club
1960 Triumph TR3A
PH: 530-FIND-RYE

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 12:00 PM, Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> I=E2=80=99ve done the tube shock and won=E2=80=99t do again for the =
reasons in the pictures.  I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in =
three of my TRs and they are great.  I even have the uprated.  I DO NOT =
recommend them for a TR4 as they are really hard.  Rides like a buck =
board with the leaf springs. I am switching out to a stock rebuild.  =
Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get uprated if you are racing. =20
> Cheers,
> Jim Henningsen
> Ocala FL
> 61 3A
> 62 4
> 67 4A
> 75 6
> 81 8=20
> =20
> From: Triumphs <[email-masked] =
> To: Will Daehler <[email-masked] =
> Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever =
shocks with telescopic rear shock conversions
> =20
> Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may =
or may not be relevant to your situation. =20
>=20
> There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for the TR6 =
and I assume the 4A.  The one with three triangular brackets that go =
through the body (likely the one you looked at from Moss), A bracket =
that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a single plate =
bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.
>=20
> Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever shocks =
rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.  If I was starting over, that is =
probably what I would do.
>=20
> A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - see =
https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits =
<https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits> - the Monroe =
shock version for the 4A is available.  They have an article at =
http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/ =
<http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/>  It looks like =
a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to install.  Read the =
instructions from their website.
>=20
> I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body without a =
frame attachments.
>=20
> I used the single plate version because it was much easier, but this =
design leads to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the =
frame, including mine.  See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of =
other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.  If you have =
this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member regularly.  If =
you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the trailing arm =
through its full range of motion and you will probably see the top of =
the shock mount move front to rear.
>=20
> After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of the =
single plate design available from some vendors.  I extended the top =
mount for the shock back about two inches and added two braces.  One is =
a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two shock mounts near =
the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to side stability.  =
The other is the more important addition and goes from the top of the =
shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 deg angle.  This one =
stops any front to rear motion of the shock bracket.  Unfortunately the =
car isn't easily accessible right now and I can't find my pictures.
>=20
> Below is an item I wrote 20 years ago or so.  The 5-6025 kit is the =
single plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket =
from the top of the shock mount to the frame.
>=20
>=20
>=20
> > Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or =
experience with
> > the shock conversion kit that v.b. sells as part #  5-6025. It is =
listed on
> I put similar brackets on my car.  They are the easiest design to fit, =
taking about 30 minutes to install.  I purchased my brackets from =
someone who made them for his car for $40.  I bought the shocks from Pep =
Boys for $12.95 each.  The VB shocks must be pretty good to command the =
$189 price tag.  My driving can often be aggressive, especially at =
autocross events (2nd place in class at the Moss festival and first =
overall at Triumphest in 1998).  The cheap shock seem to work fine for =
me in the rear, though I may just not know any better.  The PO put =
Koni's on the front.
>=20
> Installation made a tremendous improvement in my car, but that's =
because my lever shocks were dead.  I've heard lots of good things about =
the heavy duty rebuilds to the lever shocks.  Doing it again, I'd give =
this serious thought.
>=20
> - When the car is in the air, the limit stop for the trailing arm =
travel is the tube shock.  I had a shock fail after only a year =
(exchanged for free replacement).  I think the other one may also need =
replacement, as there's oil on the tube.  This tension is transferred =
through the shock to the bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame =
cross member that holds the shocks and rear differential mounts.  I =
mention this because I just discovered several broken welds including =
both rear differential mounts and the crossemember to frame connection =
near the right shock mount.  The car had the differential reinforcing =
brackets installed for the DPO.  I don't know if the shock conversion =
caused this, but I think it aggravated the problem.  (Any comments on =
this from others?)
>=20
> - You are limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the =
>=20
> Safety considerations:
> - The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on each end of =
the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock come undone.  =
Your shocks should be double nutted.  I used a nylocs because I had a =
box of them, but any nut should work.
>=20
> - Check the tires and brackets for rubbing.  I have a little bit on =
the right side recently, but nothing I'm concerned about.  I can't see =
any indication on the tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.  I run =
205/65 tires and will adjust the camber on the right tire.
>=20
> If your into welding, you can make your own brackets looking at the =
picture.  Drop me an e-mail and I'll look up the shock number again.  =
It's off 50's Studebakers and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.
>=20
> The Moss kit is an effort to install.  It has three triangular =
brackets per side.  One to the standard shock mount, the second inside =
the body by the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.  The =
first step in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.
>=20
> I'd always avoid a shock that only bolts to the body.  The dampening =
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>> When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right =
rear area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I =
have fixed the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs =
and refilled the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking =
through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong =
shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But =
the kits are NLS.  No Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  =
were discontinued.  It could have been that they caused damage to the =
frame, or just didn=E2=80=99t work.  I was hoping somebody had any =
first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could =
discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and proprietary =
set ups.
>> =20
>> Will Daehler
>> 63 TR4 =20
>>=20
>>=20
>> =20
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--Apple-Mail=_2FA9AE23-FDBB-4394-AA9C-8FD3E7159A4C
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D"">For =
my 1960 TR3A I upgraded my stock lever shocks to the adjustable lever =
shocks from World Wide Auto Parts, and I love them. &nbsp;There are =
instructions where to set it for stock ride, so you have the option to =
make them softer or stiffer than stock. &nbsp;I=E2=80=99m running mine a =
bit stiffer, along with a 7/8=E2=80=9D front sway bar and 205/60R15 =
Goodrich tires on 6 1/2=E2=80=9D Panasport wheels and the handling is =
excellent.<div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">Rye =
Livingston<br class=3D"">Activities Chairman<br class=3D"">Triumph =
Travelers Sports Car Club<br class=3D"">1960 Triumph TR3A<br =
class=3D"">PH: 530-FIND-RYE<br class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote =
type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div class=3D"">On Dec 6, 2020, at 12:00 PM, =
Jim Henningsen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><meta =
charset=3D"UTF-8" class=3D""><div class=3D"WordSection1" style=3D"page: =
WordSection1; caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; =
font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; =
font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; =
text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: =
none;"><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, =
sans-serif;" class=3D"">I=E2=80=99ve done the tube shock and won=E2=80=99t=
 do again for the reasons in the pictures.&nbsp; I have rebuilt levers =
from Worldwide Auto in three of my TRs and they are great.&nbsp; I even =
have the uprated.&nbsp; I DO NOT recommend them for a TR4 as they are =
really hard.&nbsp; Rides like a buck board with the leaf springs. I am =
switching out to a stock rebuild.&nbsp; Jane at Worldwide mentioned only =
get uprated if you are racing.&nbsp;<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Cheers,<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Jim Henningsen<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Ocala FL<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">61 3A<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">62 4<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">67 4A<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">75 6<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">81 8<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></div><div class=3D""><div style=3D"border-style: =
solid none none; border-top-width: 1pt; border-top-color: rgb(225, 225, =
225); padding: 3pt 0in 0in;" class=3D""><div style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><b =
class=3D"">From:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Triumphs &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><b class=3D"">On Behalf =
Of<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span></b>Brian Kemp<br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Sent:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Sunday, December 06, 2020 =
1:50 PM<br class=3D""><b class=3D"">To:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Will Daehler &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt;;<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><br =
class=3D""><b class=3D"">Subject:</b><span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating =
replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock =
conversions<o:p class=3D""></o:p></div></div></div><div style=3D"margin: =
0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Will - I'm not as familiar =
with the solid axle of the TR4, so this may or may not be relevant to =
your situation.&nbsp;<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">There are at least three styles of tube shock conversions for =
the TR6 and I assume the 4A.&nbsp; The one with three triangular =
brackets that go through the body (likely the one you looked at from =
Moss), A bracket that bolts to the body with no frame attachment, and a =
single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock mount.<br =
class=3D""><br class=3D"">Also watch for feedback on people that just =
get the lever shocks rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.&nbsp; If I was =
starting over, that is probably what I would do.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">A sample of the three plate design at Moss is 670-128 - =
see<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits" =
style=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">https://mossmotors.com/rear-tube-shock-conversion-kits</a><span=
 class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>- the Monroe shock version =
for the 4A is available.&nbsp; They have an article at<span =
class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span><a =
href=3D"http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/" =
style=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">http://www.mossmotoring.com/tr6-tube-shock-conversion/</a>&nbsp=
; It looks like a sturdy design, but takes significant effort to =
install.&nbsp; Read the instructions from their website.<br class=3D""><br=
 class=3D"">I do not recommend the bracket that just bolts to the body =
without a frame attachments.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">I used the =
single plate version because it was much easier, but this design leads =
to flexing of the frame cross member and cracking of the frame, =
including mine.&nbsp; See the 0091, 2217, and 2218 images attached of =
other people's cars discovered at a local club tech clinic.&nbsp; If you =
have this design, I recommend you check the frame cross member =
regularly.&nbsp; If you have the rear spring out for any reason, run the =
trailing arm through its full range of motion and you will probably see =
the top of the shock mount move front to rear.<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">After having my frame cracks welded, I built a new version of =
the single plate design available from some vendors.&nbsp; I extended =
the top mount for the shock back about two inches and added two =
braces.&nbsp; One is a length of 1" angle iron that goes between the two =
shock mounts near the top of the bracket, just below the body to side to =
side stability.&nbsp; The other is the more important addition and goes =
from the top of the shock bracket rearward to the frame at about a 45 =
deg angle.&nbsp; This one stops any front to rear motion of the shock =
bracket.&nbsp; Unfortunately the car isn't easily accessible right now =
and I can't find my pictures.<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">Below is an =
item I wrote 20 years ago or so.&nbsp; The 5-6025 kit is the single =
plate design that in my opinion needs at least the added bracket from =
the top of the shock mount to the frame.<br class=3D""><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""></o:p></div><h2 align=3D"center" =
style=3D"margin-right: 0in; margin-left: 0in; font-size: 18pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif; font-weight: bold; text-align: =
center;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Tube Shock Conversion =
Notes<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></h2><div style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><span =
style=3D"" class=3D"">Notes on my TR6 tube shock conversion:</span><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">&gt; =
Would like to know if anybody on the list has any knowledge or =
experience with<br class=3D"">&gt; the shock conversion kit that v.b. =
sells as part #&nbsp; 5-6025. It is listed on<br class=3D"">&gt; page 11 =
in the summer catalog.......<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></div><p =
style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; =
widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: =
initial; word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">I =
put similar brackets on my car.&nbsp; They are the easiest design to =
fit, taking about 30 minutes to install.&nbsp; I purchased my brackets =
from someone who made them for his car for $40.&nbsp; I bought the =
shocks from Pep Boys for $12.95 each.&nbsp; The VB shocks must be pretty =
good to command the $189 price tag.&nbsp; My driving can often be =
aggressive, especially at autocross events (2nd place in class at the =
Moss festival and first overall at Triumphest in 1998).&nbsp; The cheap =
shock seem to work fine for me in the rear, though I may just not know =
any better.&nbsp; The PO put Koni's on the front.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Installation made a tremendous =
improvement in my car, but that's because my lever shocks were =
dead.&nbsp; I've heard lots of good things about the heavy duty rebuilds =
to the lever shocks.&nbsp; Doing it again, I'd give this serious =
thought.<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: =
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; =
word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Disadvantages =
of this design:<br class=3D"">- When the car is in the air, the limit =
stop for the trailing arm travel is the tube shock.&nbsp; I had a shock =
fail after only a year (exchanged for free replacement).&nbsp; I think =
the other one may also need replacement, as there's oil on the =
tube.&nbsp; This tension is transferred through the shock to the =
bracket, at a slight angle, torquing the frame cross member that holds =
the shocks and rear differential mounts.&nbsp; I mention this because I =
just discovered several broken welds including both rear differential =
mounts and the crossemember to frame connection near the right shock =
mount.&nbsp; The car had the differential reinforcing brackets installed =
for the DPO.&nbsp; I don't know if the shock conversion caused this, but =
I think it aggravated the problem.&nbsp; (Any comments on this from =
others?)<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: =
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; =
word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">- You are =
limited in tire width to 205 series tires, which may rub the bracket if =
you have lots of camber or weak springs.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Safety considerations:<br =
class=3D"">- The Gabrial shocks I purchased only have a single nut on =
each end of the shock. The guy I got the brackets through had a shock =
come undone.&nbsp; Your shocks should be double nutted.&nbsp; I used a =
nylocs because I had a box of them, but any nut should work.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">- Check the tires and brackets =
for rubbing.&nbsp; I have a little bit on the right side recently, but =
nothing I'm concerned about.&nbsp; I can't see any indication on the =
tire, just some rubber dust on the bracket.&nbsp; I run 205/65 tires and =
will adjust the camber on the right tire.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">If your into welding, you can =
make your own brackets looking at the picture.&nbsp; Drop me an e-mail =
and I'll look up the shock number again.&nbsp; It's off 50's Studebakers =
and Cadillacs if I remember correctly.<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p =
style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; =
widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: =
initial; word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">The =
Moss kit is an effort to install.&nbsp; It has three triangular brackets =
per side.&nbsp; One to the standard shock mount, the second inside the =
body by the fuel tank, and the third in the wheel well area.&nbsp; The =
first step in the instructions was to remove the fuel tank.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: normal; =
orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; -webkit-text-stroke-width: =
0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; word-spacing: 0px;" =
class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">I'd always avoid a shock that =
only bolts to the body.&nbsp; The dampening forces need to go to the =
frame.<o:p class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p style=3D"font-variant-caps: =
normal; orphans: 2; text-align: start; widows: 2; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration-thickness: initial; =
word-spacing: 0px;" class=3D""><span style=3D"" class=3D"">Brian<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal" style=3D"margin: 0in =
0in 12pt; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;"><br =
class=3D""><br class=3D""><o:p class=3D""></o:p></p><div class=3D""><div =
style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, =
sans-serif;" class=3D"">On 12/6/2020 8:34 AM, Will Daehler wrote:<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div></div><blockquote style=3D"margin-top: 5pt; =
margin-bottom: 5pt;" class=3D"" type=3D"cite"><div style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">When =
going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the right rear =
area of my car.&nbsp; I have poked around by the axle, and thought I =
have fixed the problem a couple of times.&nbsp; I have replaced the =
springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.&nbsp; I have poked around. =
While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing =
the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock =
absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.&nbsp; No Longer Supplied.&nbsp; I =
was wondering why the kits &nbsp;were discontinued.&nbsp; It could have =
been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn=E2=80=99t =
work.&nbsp; I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or =
experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing =
group all have custom and proprietary set ups.<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">&nbsp;<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">Will Daehler<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D"">63 TR4 &nbsp;<o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></div><div style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 11pt; =
font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D""><o:p class=3D""></o:p></div><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; =
font-size: 10pt; font-family: &quot;Courier New&quot;;" class=3D"">** <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" class=3D"">[email-masked]</a> =
**<o:p class=3D""></o:p></pre><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: =
10pt; font-family: &quot;Courier New&quot;;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 10pt; =
font-family: &quot;Courier New&quot;;" class=3D"">Donate: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><o:p =
class=3D""></o:p></pre><pre style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 10pt; =
font-family: &quot;Courier New&quot;;" class=3D"">Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>&nbsp; <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/archive</a><o:p class=3D""></o:p></pre><pre=
 style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 10pt; font-family: &quot;Courier =
New&quot;;" class=3D""><o:p class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre =
style=3D"margin: 0in; font-size: 10pt; font-family: &quot;Courier =
New&quot;;" class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]"=
 style=3D"color: blue; text-decoration: underline;" =
class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]=
et</a><o:p class=3D""></o:p></pre></blockquote><div style=3D"margin: =
0in; font-size: 11pt; font-family: Calibri, sans-serif;" class=3D""><o:p =
class=3D"">&nbsp;</o:p></div></div><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, =
0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline !important;" =
class=3D"">**<span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span></span><a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" style=3D"color: blue; =
text-decoration: underline; font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; =
font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; =
letter-spacing: normal; orphans: auto; text-align: start; text-indent: =
0px; text-transform: none; white-space: normal; widows: auto; =
word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-size-adjust: auto; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px;" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a><span style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, =
0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: 12px; font-style: normal; =
font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: normal; letter-spacing: normal; =
text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; text-transform: none; white-space: =
normal; word-spacing: 0px; -webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; =
text-decoration: none; float: none; display: inline !important;" =
class=3D""><span class=3D"Apple-converted-space">&nbsp;</span>**</span><br=
 style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><br =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
normal; letter-spacing: normal; text-align: start; text-indent: 0px; =
text-transform: none; white-space: normal; word-spacing: 0px; =
-webkit-text-stroke-width: 0px; text-decoration: none;" class=3D""><span =
style=3D"caret-color: rgb(0, 0, 0); font-family: Helvetica; font-size: =
12px; font-style: normal; font-variant-caps: normal; font-weight: =
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From: John Linney <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 13:32:49 -0800

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That clunk you are getting sounds like mine, due to a broken rear link. The a=
ttachment bolt becomes separated from the arm / metalastic. Simple fix. http=
s://mossmotors.com/link-shock-absorber-5?assoc=3D39816

Sent from my iPad

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 8:38 AM, Will Daehler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
rea of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixed th=
e problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled the A=
rmstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss catalog=
 I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets t=
hat you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  No Longer Sup=
plied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It could have been=
 that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn=E2=80=99t work.  I was h=
oping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic that=
 they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and propri=
etary set ups.
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/john@li=
nneyweb.com

--Apple-Mail-1EFA44F3-3BC5-40C4-A473-0D9AE2756AFE
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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">That clunk you are getting sounds like mine=
, due to a broken rear link. The attachment bolt becomes separated from the a=
rm / metalastic. Simple fix.&nbsp;<a href=3D"https://mossmotors.com/link-sho=
ck-absorber-5?assoc=3D39816">https://mossmotors.com/link-shock-absorber-5?as=
soc=3D39816</a><div><br><br><div dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my iPad</div><div dir=
=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Dec 6, 2020, at 8:38 AM, Will Daeh=
ler &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div><blockqu=
ote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type=
" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3D"Generator" content=
=3D"Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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</xml><![endif]--><!--[if gte mso 9]><xml>
<o:shapelayout v:ext=3D"edit">
<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal">When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the righ=
t rear area of my car.&nbsp; I have poked around by the axle, and thought I h=
ave fixed the problem a couple of times.&nbsp; I have replaced the springs a=
nd refilled the Armstrong shocks.&nbsp; I have poked around. While looking t=
hrough my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks=
 with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits a=
re NLS.&nbsp; No Longer Supplied.&nbsp; I was wondering why the kits &nbsp;w=
ere discontinued.&nbsp; It could have been that they caused damage to the fr=
ame, or just didn=E2=80=99t work.&nbsp; I was hoping somebody had any first-=
hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder=
 if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.<o:p></o:p></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Will Daeh=
ler<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">63 TR4 &nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><=
span>** [email-masked] **</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: h=
ttp://www.team.net/donate.html</span><br><span>Archive: http://www.team.net/=
pipermail/triumphs &nbsp;http://www.team.net/archive</span><br><span></span>=
<br><span>Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs=
/[email-masked]</span><br></div></blockquote></div></body></html>=

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---

From: Allen Hess <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:46:17 -0500

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Definitely replace the shock to frame bolts with Allen/socket head bolts. If=
 they have been loose the holes will be elongated.=20

Allen=20
=E2=80=9863 TR4 since =E2=80=9867

> On Dec 6, 2020, at 11:34 AM, Will Daehler <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> =EF=BB=BF
> 63 TR4 =20

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto"><div dir=3D"ltr">Definitely replace the sho=
ck to frame bolts with Allen/socket head bolts. If they have been loose the h=
oles will be elongated.&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br></div><div dir=3D"lt=
r">Allen&nbsp;</div><div dir=3D"ltr">=E2=80=9863 TR4 since =E2=80=9867</div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br><blockquote type=3D"cite">On Dec 6, 2020, at 11:34 AM, W=
ill Daehler &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:<br><br></blockquote></div>=
<blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF<meta http-equiv=3D"Cont=
ent-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Dus-ascii"><meta name=3D"Generator"=
 content=3D"Microsoft Word 14 (filtered medium)"><style><!--
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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--><div class=3D"WordSection1"><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal">When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite a rattle from the righ=
t rear area of my car.&nbsp; I have poked around by the axle, and thought I h=
ave fixed the problem a couple of times.&nbsp; I have replaced the springs a=
nd refilled the Armstrong shocks.&nbsp; I have poked around. While looking t=
hrough my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for replacing the Armstrong shocks=
 with these brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits a=
re NLS.&nbsp; No Longer Supplied.&nbsp; I was wondering why the kits &nbsp;w=
ere discontinued.&nbsp; It could have been that they caused damage to the fr=
ame, or just didn=E2=80=99t work.&nbsp; I was hoping somebody had any first-=
hand knowledge or experience on this topic that they could discuss. I wonder=
 if the racing group all have custom and proprietary set ups.<o:p></o:p></p>=
<p class=3D"MsoNormal"><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Will Daeh=
ler<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">63 TR4 &nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p></div><=
/div></blockquote></body></html>=

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---

From: "dave" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:01:08 -0600

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I'm going to totally disagree.  I have the uprated shocks from Worldwide in
2 cars and totally recommend it.  I do drive hard so maybe I'm a bit biased.
The rough ride will come more from the bushings than the uprated shocks.
IMHO the standard valving is too soft.

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of Jim Henningsen
Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 2:00 PM
To: 'Brian Kemp' <[email-masked]>; 'Will Daehler'
<[email-masked]>; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
with telescopic rear shock conversions

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

Ocala FL

61 3A

62 4

67 4A

75 6

81 8 

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]
Sent: Sunday, December 06, 2020 1:50 PM
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever shocks
with telescopic rear shock conversions

with
on

Safety considerations:

Brian

Will Daehler

63 TR4  

 

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</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple style=3D'word-wrap:break-word'><div =
class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>I&#8217;m going to totally =
disagree.&nbsp; I have the uprated shocks from Worldwide in 2 cars and =
totally recommend it.&nbsp; I do drive hard so maybe I&#8217;m a bit =
biased.&nbsp; The rough ride will come more from the bushings than the =
uprated shocks.&nbsp; IMHO the standard valving is too =
soft.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Triumphs =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Jim =
Henningsen<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 2:00 =
PM<br><b>To:</b> 'Brian Kemp' &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; 'Will Daehler' =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;; =
[email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating =
replacing the Armstrong lever shocks with telescopic rear shock =
conversions<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I&#8217;ve =
done the tube shock and won&#8217;t do again for the reasons in the =
pictures.&nbsp; I have rebuilt levers from Worldwide Auto in three of my =
TRs and they are great.&nbsp; I even have the uprated.&nbsp; I DO NOT =
recommend them for a TR4 as they are really hard.&nbsp; Rides like a =
buck board with the leaf springs. I am switching out to a stock =
rebuild.&nbsp; Jane at Worldwide mentioned only get uprated if you are =
racing.&nbsp; <o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Jim =
Henningsen<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Ocala FL<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>61 3A<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>62 =
4<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>67 4A<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>75 6<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>81 8 =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
am.net</a>&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>Brian Kemp<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, =
December 06, 2020 1:50 PM<br><b>To:</b> Will Daehler &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;; =
<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a><br><b=
>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR4 Investigating replacing the Armstrong lever =
shocks with telescopic rear shock =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'>Will - I'm not as familiar with the solid =
axle of the TR4, so this may or may not be relevant to your =
situation.&nbsp; <br><br>There are at least three styles of tube shock =
conversions for the TR6 and I assume the 4A.&nbsp; The one with three =
triangular brackets that go through the body (likely the one you looked =
at from Moss), A bracket that bolts to the body with no frame =
attachment, and a single plate bracket that bolts to the lever shock =
mount.<br><br>Also watch for feedback on people that just get the lever =
shocks rebuilt with a heavy duty rebuild.&nbsp; If I was starting over, =
that is probably what I would do.<br><br>A sample of the three plate =
design at Moss is 670-128 - see <a =
frame.<br><br><o:p></o:p></p><h2 align=3Dcenter =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p =
&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><pre>** <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
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From: "dave" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 6 Dec 2020 18:03:02 -0600

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DO NOT DO THE TUBE SHOCK CONVERSION

Using a stiffer lever shock will get you the same place without the myriad
problems of a tube shock conversion.

Sent: Sunday, December 6, 2020 12:50 PM

with
on

Safety considerations:

Brian

Will Daehler

63 TR4  

 

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class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal>DO NOT DO THE TUBE SHOCK =
CONVERSION<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Using a stiffer lever shock will get you the same =
place without the myriad problems of a tube shock =
conversion.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p =
Kemp<br><b>Sent:</b> Sunday, December 6, 2020 12:50 PM<br><b>To:</b> =
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From: Geo Hahn <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 7 Dec 2020 05:44:19 -0700

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I also use socket head cap screws in place of the original shock mounting
bolts.  Much easier to get really tight.  I also prefer Stover nuts rather
than Nylocs for that application.

Geo

On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 9:38 AM Will Daehler <[email-masked]> wrote:

> area of my car.  I have poked around by the axle, and thought I have fixe=
d
> the problem a couple of times.  I have replaced the springs and refilled
> the Armstrong shocks.  I have poked around. While looking through my Moss
> brackets that you could mount shock absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.  =
No
> Longer Supplied.  I was wondering why the kits  were discontinued.  It
> could have been that they caused damage to the frame, or just didn=E2=80=
=99t work.
> I was hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this
> topic that they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have cust=
om
> and proprietary set ups.
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">I also use socket head cap screws in place of the origina=
l shock mounting bolts.=C2=A0 Much easier to get really tight.=C2=A0 I also=
 prefer Stover nuts rather than Nylocs for that application.<div dir=3D"aut=
o"><br></div><div dir=3D"auto">Geo</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote=
"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sun, Dec 6, 2020, 9:38 AM Will D=
aehler &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:=
0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div lang=3D"EN-US"=
 link=3D"blue" vlink=3D"purple"><div class=3D"m_-1726991989624223647WordSec=
tion1"><p class=3D"MsoNormal">When going over bumps in my TR4 I have quite =
a rattle from the right rear area of my car.=C2=A0 I have poked around by t=
he axle, and thought I have fixed the problem a couple of times.=C2=A0 I ha=
ve replaced the springs and refilled the Armstrong shocks.=C2=A0 I have pok=
ed around. While looking through my Moss catalog I noticed the kits for rep=
lacing the Armstrong shocks with these brackets that you could mount shock =
absorbers to. But the kits are NLS.=C2=A0 No Longer Supplied.=C2=A0 I was w=
ondering why the kits =C2=A0were discontinued.=C2=A0 It could have been tha=
t they caused damage to the frame, or just didn=E2=80=99t work.=C2=A0 I was=
 hoping somebody had any first-hand knowledge or experience on this topic t=
hat they could discuss. I wonder if the racing group all have custom and pr=
oprietary set ups.<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><u></u>=C2=A0<u>=
</u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal">Will Daehler<u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"Ms=
oNormal">63 TR4 =C2=A0<u></u><u></u></p></div></div>** <a href=3D"mailto:tr=
[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">triumphs@autox.=
team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=
=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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