Subject: [TR] TR3 (split) steering box rebuild questions

From: "Art McEwen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 12:02:15 -0400 (built Jul 9 2013)

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Finally pulled the box out, 2 questions have come up:

1) The steering system parts diagram shows 1 rubber bushing (they call it a bearing) but Moss & TRF both list 2 as required. Where does the 2nd one go? part # 209423 or 525-020

2) Does anybody know where I can buy a hand reamer as shown in Macy's instructions pages? My go-to store for 1-off tools (Princess Auto/Harbor Freight) doesn't list them and I haven't found that size on amazon either.
https://macysgarage.com/stg-box-3.htm

Thanks,

Art.

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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 16:36:43 -0700

> 1) The steering system parts diagram shows 1 rubber bushing 
> (they call it a bearing) but Moss & TRF both list 2 as 
> required.   Where does the 2nd one go?  part # 209423 or 525-020

Those are only for the 'split' column.  One goes at the top of the bottom
half, the other at the bottom of the top half.  Originals were not just
rubber, but a 3-layer construction of nylon on the inside, a steel shell
around the nylon, and an outer layer of rubber.  Only the nylon touched the
shaft.

Terminology may vary, but to me, a "bushing" is a type of bearing.  So they
are both bushings and bearings.

> 2) Does anybody know where I can buy a hand reamer as shown 
> in Macy's instructions pages?   My go-to store for 1-off 
> tools (Princess Auto/Harbor Freight) doesn't list them and I 
> haven't found that size on amazon either.

I would hold off on buying the reamer, until you're sure you need one.  I've
only done this 3 times, but I have not needed a reamer any of those times.

I'm also not at all a fan of adjustable reamers, especially cheap ones.  IMO
it's better to measure your shaft, and buy a fixed reamer to suit.  IIRC,
the shaft is sized so that a standard fixed reamer will give the correct
running clearance.  IOW, the shaft is .001 to .002 smaller than a standard
size (might well be 7/8 as Macy says, I just don't recall offhand).
https://amzn.com/B00U6JYG0A

If you do need a slightly smaller hole (due to wear in the shaft), you can
sharpen the reamer.

If you do go with an adjustable reamer, take very small cuts with it.  Find
the smallest setting that will cut at all, then move up in tiny (like .002")
steps until you get the size you need.

-- Randall

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From: Art McEwen <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 14 Apr 2020 22:15:28 -0400

> On Apr 14, 2020, at 7:36 PM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> half, the other at the bottom of the top half.  

Thanks.   

I think there's an old one in the lower shaft but no evidence of one in the upper.  

I was thinking that it went about where it's pictured on the parts diagram and my lack of a bushing at the wheel went part of the way to explain why the steering wheel seemed not to be rigid in the upper shaft housing.  So how much wheel wobble in the shaft is to be expected when I'm done?
** [email-masked] **