Subject: Re: [TR] Wire terminations

From: DAVID MASSEY <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2019 14:37:14 +0000 (UTC)

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 Actually, British Wire carries both solder bullets and crimp bullets.=C2=
=A0 There is also a special crimper for those bullets so if you are going t=
o do a lot of harness work investing in the crimper may be justified just i=
n the time savings.
http://www.britishwiring.com/Ratchet-Style-Bullet-Crimping-Tool-p/tt85.htmh=
ttp://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/267.htm
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
To: list Triumph <[email-masked]>
Sent: Fri, Jan 11, 2019 7:52 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire terminations

I do love this list. After over 20 yrs, I still pull some nuggets.
Forever (it seems), I had to solder tips of wires in bullet connectors as a=
ny attempt to crimp, just broke the barrel of the connector.=C2=A0 Having m=
y own opinions on solder vs crimp, I made the best of it by cleaning the po=
inty end of the connector, stripping 1/4 inch of wire and inserting through=
 the hole, then solder. That left the standed wire flexible when it exited =
the barrel.=C2=A0
Crimping seems much simpler...=C2=A0 Now I know where to find crimpable bul=
lets!
This will be handy as the DPO cut a perfectly good harness up during his di=
ssamembly of both TR3s I recently purchased. I dont think he knew what or h=
ow bullet connectors worked.** [email-masked] **

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<div> <font size="3">Actually, British Wire carries both solder bullets and crimp bullets.&nbsp; There is also a special crimper for those bullets so if you are going to do a lot of harness work investing in the crimper may be justified just in the time savings.</font></div>

<div><font size="3"><br>
</font></div>

<div><font size="3">http://www.britishwiring.com/Ratchet-Style-Bullet-Crimping-Tool-p/tt85.htm</font></div>

<div><font size="3">http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/267.htm</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="clear:both"><font size="4">Dave </font><br>
<br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style="font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Chris Simo &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
To: list Triumph &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br>
Sent: Fri, Jan 11, 2019 7:52 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire terminations<br>
<br>

<div id="yiv2218966945">
<div>
<div>I do love this list. After over 20 yrs, I still pull some nuggets.
<div><br clear="none"></div>

<div>Forever (it seems), I had to solder tips of wires in bullet connectors as any attempt to crimp, just broke the barrel of the connector.&nbsp; Having my own opinions on solder vs crimp, I made the best of it by cleaning the pointy end of the connector, stripping 1/4 inch of wire and inserting through the hole, then solder. That left the standed wire flexible when it exited the barrel.&nbsp;</div>

<div><br clear="none"></div>

<div>Crimping seems much simpler...&nbsp; Now I know where to find crimpable bullets!</div>

<div><br clear="none"></div>

<div>This will be handy as the DPO cut a perfectly good harness up during his dissamembly of both TR3s I recently purchased. I dont think he knew what or how bullet connectors worked.</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>

<div class="yqt3981447639" id="yqtfd00525">** <a shape="rect" ymailto="mailto:[email-masked]" rel="noopener noreferrer" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **<br clear="none"><br clear="none"><br clear="none"></div>
</div>
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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---

From: "Dave Connitt" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2019 12:25:10 -0500

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Speaking of bullet connectors, the ones that came with the Advanced =
Autowire harness I installed in my TR4A are solid brass and in my =
opinion are much easier to crimp and/or solder than the other steel =
pieces. Not sure where they come from but I haven=E2=80=99t asked Steve =
at Advanced Autowire either..

Dave Connitt

=20

=20

From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> On Behalf Of DAVID =
MASSEY
Sent: Friday, January 11, 2019 9:37 AM
To: [email-masked]; [email-masked]
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire terminations

=20

Actually, British Wire carries both solder bullets and crimp bullets.  =
There is also a special crimper for those bullets so if you are going to =
do a lot of harness work investing in the crimper may be justified just =
in the time savings.

=20

http://www.britishwiring.com/Ratchet-Style-Bullet-Crimping-Tool-p/tt85.ht=
m

http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/267.htm

=20

Dave=20

=20

=20

-----Original Message-----
To: list Triumph <[email-masked] =
Sent: Fri, Jan 11, 2019 7:52 am
Subject: Re: [TR] Wire terminations

I do love this list. After over 20 yrs, I still pull some nuggets.=20

=20

Forever (it seems), I had to solder tips of wires in bullet connectors =
as any attempt to crimp, just broke the barrel of the connector.  Having =
my own opinions on solder vs crimp, I made the best of it by cleaning =
the pointy end of the connector, stripping 1/4 inch of wire and =
inserting through the hole, then solder. That left the standed wire =
flexible when it exited the barrel.=20

=20

Crimping seems much simpler...  Now I know where to find crimpable =
bullets!

=20

This will be handy as the DPO cut a perfectly good harness up during his =
dissamembly of both TR3s I recently purchased. I dont think he knew what =
or how bullet connectors worked.

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<o:idmap v:ext=3D"edit" data=3D"1" />
</o:shapelayout></xml><![endif]--></head><body lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue =
vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Spe=
aking of bullet connectors, the ones that came with the Advanced =
Autowire harness I installed in my TR4A are solid brass and in my =
opinion are much easier to crimp and/or solder than the other steel =
pieces. Not sure where they come from but I haven=E2=80=99t asked Steve =
at Advanced Autowire either..<o:p></o:p></span></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Dav=
e Connitt<o:p></o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> Triumphs =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <b>On Behalf Of </b>DAVID =
MASSEY<br><b>Sent:</b> Friday, January 11, 2019 9:37 AM<br><b>To:</b> =
[email-masked]; [email-masked]<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: =
[TR] Wire terminations<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Act=
ually, British Wire carries both solder bullets and crimp bullets.&nbsp; =
There is also a special crimper for those bullets so if you are going to =
do a lot of harness work investing in the crimper may be justified just =
in the time savings.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><a =
href=3D"http://www.britishwiring.com/Ratchet-Style-Bullet-Crimping-Tool-p=
/tt85.htm">http://www.britishwiring.com/Ratchet-Style-Bullet-Crimping-Too=
l-p/tt85.htm</a><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><a =
href=3D"http://www.britishwiring.com/category-s/267.htm">http://www.briti=
shwiring.com/category-s/267.htm</a><o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:13.5pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Dav=
e </span><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>---=
--Original Message-----<br>From: Chris Simo &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<br>To: =
list Triumph &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt;<b=
r>Sent: Fri, Jan 11, 2019 7:52 am<br>Subject: Re: [TR] Wire =
terminations<o:p></o:p></span></p><div id=3Dyiv2218966945><div><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>I =
do love this list. After over 20 yrs, I still pull some nuggets. =
<o:p></o:p></span></p><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>For=
ever (it seems), I had to solder tips of wires in bullet connectors as =
any attempt to crimp, just broke the barrel of the connector.&nbsp; =
Having my own opinions on solder vs crimp, I made the best of it by =
cleaning the pointy end of the connector, stripping 1/4 inch of wire and =
inserting through the hole, then solder. That left the standed wire =
flexible when it exited the =
barrel.&nbsp;<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Cri=
mping seems much simpler...&nbsp; Now I know where to find crimpable =
bullets!<o:p></o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'><o:=
p>&nbsp;</o:p></span></p></div><div><p class=3DMsoNormal><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>Thi=
s will be handy as the DPO cut a perfectly good harness up during his =
dissamembly of both TR3s I recently purchased. I dont think he knew what =
or how bullet connectors =
worked.<o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></div><div =
id=3Dyqtfd00525><p class=3DMsoNormal =
style=3D'margin-bottom:12.0pt'><span =
style=3D'font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Arial",sans-serif;color:black'>** =
<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
**<br><br><o:p></o:p></span></p></div></div></div></body></html>
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2019 12:23:38 -0600

> Actually, British Wire carries both solder bullets and crimp 
> bullets.  There is also a special crimper for those bullets 
> so if you are going to do a lot of harness work investing in 
> the crimper may be justified just in the time savings.

I've gotten them from TRF as well. 

One thing that is easy to overlook, the bullets need to be a snug fit on the
bare wire before either soldering or crimping.  But they come in sizes to
suit British wire.  If you are using AWG wire, you may need to drill out a
smaller bullet to get a snug fit.  They are soft and easy to drill, I've
been known to do it by clamping a bit in the bench vise and turning the
bullet on it with my fingers.  But if you use a drill motor, I definitely
suggest holding the bullet with pliers or similar.

While we're on the topic, it's also important that the wire be clean.  Not
usually an issue with new wire, just strip the insulation off and go.  But
with old wire, it's common for the surface to be oxidized even under the
insulation.  This is very typical:
https://i.imgur.com/AvD3f6e.jpg
(A bit of original harness from my previous 59 TR3A.)

Note the dark brown "old penny" color, which is copper oxide.  Copper oxide
is a very poor conductor (technically classed as a semi-conductor) and will
also interfere with making a good solder joint.

To make a good joint, it needs to look like this:
https://i.imgur.com/7tJFS0J.jpg
The bright "new penny" color is bare copper.

-- Randall

---

From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 11 Jan 2019 20:01:08 -0500 (EST)

So I've been driving my'3 after a complete, frame off, restoration, for over 12 years now.  Have run silicone fluif all that time.  Question:
How long should I expect the hoses to be safe before replacing them?  ...FWIW, am having to replace the front disks anyway, so am in there anyway...of course other than having to re-bleed the brakes and whatnot.

Thoughts, oh Triump gurus?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667
New Hampshire, where it's 10 degrees F but have finally a heated garage!
** [email-masked] **

---

From: Chris Simo <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2019 09:10:55 -0500

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--00000000000007e640057f436249

Since it's a 12 yr old single point of failure item and you're in there
already, I'd do it and the flex line at the rear.  Good excuse to flush the
brake system, too.

I really must put in a dual system someday....

Sent from my TRASH-80

On Fri, Jan 11, 2019, 11:55 PM TERRY SMITH <[email-masked] wrote:

> So I've been driving my'3 after a complete, frame off, restoration, for
> over 12 years now.  Have run silicone fluif all that time.  Question:
> How long should I expect the hoses to be safe before replacing them?
> ...FWIW, am having to replace the front disks anyway, so am in there
> anyway...of course other than having to re-bleed the brakes and whatnot.
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>

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<div dir=3D"auto">Since it&#39;s a 12 yr old single point of failure item a=
nd you&#39;re in there already, I&#39;d do it and the flex line at the rear=
.=C2=A0 Good excuse to flush the brake system, too.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></=
div><div dir=3D"auto">I really must put in a dual system someday....<br><br=
><div data-smartmail=3D"gmail_signature" dir=3D"auto">Sent from my TRASH-80=
</div></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri, J=
an 11, 2019, 11:55 PM TERRY SMITH &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]=
">[email-masked]</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote"=
 style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">So=
 I&#39;ve been driving my&#39;3 after a complete, frame off, restoration, f=
or over 12 years now.=C2=A0 Have run silicone fluif all that time.=C2=A0 Qu=
estion:<br>
How long should I expect the hoses to be safe before replacing them?=C2=A0 =
...FWIW, am having to replace the front disks anyway, so am in there anyway=
...of course other than having to re-bleed the brakes and whatnot.<br>
<br>
Thoughts, oh Triump gurus?<br>
<br>
Terry Smith, &#39;59 TR3A=C2=A0 TS 58667<br>
New Hampshire, where it&#39;s 10 degrees F but have finally a heated garage=
!<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer">[email-masked]</a> **<br>
<br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=
=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</blockquote></div>

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From: Thomas Fansher <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 12 Jan 2019 10:41:12 -0500

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Replace with the steel hoses. =46rom Ted Schumacher=20
Just my 2 cents
Sent from my iPhone

> On Jan 12, 2019, at 9:10 AM, Chris Simo <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
> Since it's a 12 yr old single point of failure item and you're in there al=
ready, I'd do it and the flex line at the rear.  Good excuse to flush the br=
ake system, too.
>> So I've been driving my'3 after a complete, frame off, restoration, for o=
ver 12 years now.  Have run silicone fluif all that time.  Question:
>> How long should I expect the hoses to be safe before replacing them?  ...=
FWIW, am having to replace the front disks anyway, so am in there anyway...o=
f course other than having to re-bleed the brakes and whatnot.
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/arch=
ive
>>=20
>> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ccsimo=
[email-masked]
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archi=
ve
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/tfanshe=
[email-masked]

--Apple-Mail-3C26DB7B-8CD8-4D2F-88BA-78391D9299C8
	charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">Replace with the steel hoses. =46rom Ted Sc=
humacher&nbsp;<br>Just my 2 cents<br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"l=
tr">Sent from my iPhone</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Jan 12, 2019, at 9:10 A=
M, Chris Simo &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
om</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div dir=3D"ltr"><d=
iv dir=3D"auto">Since it's a 12 yr old single point of failure item and you'=
re in there already, I'd do it and the flex line at the rear.&nbsp; Good exc=
use to flush the brake system, too.<div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><div dir=3D"a=
uto">I really must put in a dual system someday....<br><br><div data-smartma=
il=3D"gmail_signature" dir=3D"auto">Sent from my TRASH-80</div></div></div><=
br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr">On Fri, Jan 11, 2019, 11:55 P=
M TERRY SMITH &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]=
</a> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0=
 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">So I've been driving my'3=
 after a complete, frame off, restoration, for over 12 years now.&nbsp; Have=
 run silicone fluif all that time.&nbsp; Question:<br>
How long should I expect the hoses to be safe before replacing them?&nbsp; .=
..FWIW, am having to replace the front disks anyway, so am in there anyway..=
.of course other than having to re-bleed the brakes and whatnot.<br>
<br>
Thoughts, oh Triump gurus?<br>
<br>
Terry Smith, '59 TR3A&nbsp; TS 58667<br>
New Hampshire, where it's 10 degrees F but have finally a heated garage!<br>=

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