Subject: [TR] Old Nugget: wire wheel paint

From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 18 Jan 2019 15:50:00 -0500 (EST)

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I'm sorry to bring this up again.  Can't seem to find the history threads.  Also lost the link to the Triumph website that offers discussions.

Two years ago I sandblasted and painted my wire wheels.  Think I used Duplicolor wheel paint.  Now here it is again:  surface rust spots and minor chipping.  Car is a daily driver, albeit not in New Hampshire winters. 

Am getting to the point I might take it to a paint shop to have it professionally done, but even then I'm unsure to get a paint hard enough to withstand daily driving. 

Thoughts?

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

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</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">I&#39;m sorry to bring this up again.&#1=
60; Can&#39;t seem to find the history threads.&#160; Also lost the link to=
 the Triumph website that offers discussions.<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:=
 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">=
<br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-se=
rif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Two years ago I sandblasted and painted my wi=
re wheels.&#160; Think I used Duplicolor wheel paint.&#160; Now here it is =
again:&#160; surface rust spots and minor chipping.&#160; Car is a daily dr=
iver, albeit not in New Hampshire winters.&#160; <br></p><p style=3D"font-s=
ize: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51=
);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, san=
s-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Am getting to the point I might take it t=
o a paint shop to have it professionally done, but even then I&#39;m unsure=
 to get a paint hard enough to withstand daily driving.&#160; <br></p><p st=
yle=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: r=
gb(51, 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetic=
a, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Thoughts?<br></p><p style=3D=
"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51,=
 51, 51);"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, ari=
al, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Terry Smith, &#39;59 TR3A<br></p><=
p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; colo=
r: rgb(51, 51, 51);">New Hamsphire<br></p></body></html>
=20
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From: Frank Magnusson <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 20 Jan 2019 14:56:00 -0600

Hi Terry,

Not sure what paint prep work you did before painting, but that could be your problem.  The proper way to do it which very few people do is after stripping to bare metal, then chemically treat the metal, then expoxy prime, then top coat with a hardener added.  I did mine like this many years ago and have had no issues.  An automotive paint supplier showed me that, and lo and behold its right on the can.  I use PPG and their  chemical treating is a two chemical process.  A good automotive paint shop can color match it for you in as little as a quart.  If you dont have spray equipment, Preval makes a good setup for small jobs.  Its a glass jar with an aerosol spray cartridge attached at the top.  Its fairly inexpensive and gives really nice results, although you'd use alot of them for a wheel.  A descent detail spray gun and a compressor are not very expensive either.  

There are lots of short cuts; self etching primer, no chemical treating, no hardener, and I've tried all of those, but never get as good results as I do doing it the full treatment.

Hope this helps,
Frank

Sent from my iPad