Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Choke Question

From: Michael Marr <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 03:09:22 +0000

What kind of oil are you using in the dash pots?  If the oil is too heavy, it may overdamp the pistons, causing them to rise too slowly and momentarily weaken the mixture, causing the hesitation. I find 3 in 1 is about the right weight. 

Mike

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 4, 2018, at 21:05, Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> I have finished rebuilding the carbs, new carb linkage etc.  Unfortunately
> after all this tuning the carbs hesitate at first push of the pedal.  They
> kind of go  huhh  then rev the engine. It's a hesitation.  Seems to be
> better with choke on.   The choke cable is hard to pull out.  Takes two ands
> to pull out and then twist to lock.  That's to really get the choke levers
> to move both jets down.  Is this normal or maybe I need a new choke cable.
> I think the resistance is in the mechanism engineering.  Any thoughts on
> aither issue.  Hard choke pull or hesitation.
> Thanks
> Jim Henningsen (aka still learning the 3)
> Ocala, FL
> 61 TR3A
> 62 TR4
> 75 TR6
> 82 Jeep CJ8
> 02 Triumph Trophy 1200
> 
> ** [email-masked] **
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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sun, 4 Nov 2018 22:06:49 -0600

Jim,
Sounds too lean, the wizards will have some great answers, but here’s what I would do after re-checking the timing and advance.

1. Enriched the mixture, one flat at a time, and see if that helps.  Had the same effect has the choke being slightly pulled out.  

1a. Check plugs, are they black?   If so then too rich and you turned out too many flats. 

2. What oil are you using in the dashpots?  SU recommends 20 weight. 

3. Disconnect the choke cable and see how free it moves, might be a kink somewhere.  I have always found the setup to be a bit stiff, when my arthritis kicks up I need two hands. 

Good luck,
Bill B
TS 30800L

Sent from my Handspring Treo

On Nov 4, 2018, at 5:51 PM, Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:

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From: James Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 07:25:37 -0500

30 weight on the oil for the dash pots.   I’m going to check the richness one flat at a time and see if that helps.  I’m sure it’s in the tuning.  Thanks,
Jim 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 4, 2018, at 10:09 PM, Michael Marr <[email-masked]> wrote:
>

---

From: Thomas Fansher <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 07:50:22 -0500

Jim, I agree that enriching one flat at a time is the way to go.  Jere Dotten taught me a long time ago that the easiest way to pull the choke is to fully engage the accelerator pedal while doing so...that way all the choke is doing is pulling down the jet. Also, the choke on the 3 has three settings, the first is just fast idle, the second click should enrich the mixture a little, and then full choke enriches the mixture the full amount. Makes things a lot easier.  I finally ready to see the “new 3” - need the room for the TR4 rebuild that I’ve put off way too long.
Hope this helps
Tom
60 TR3A
61 TR3A - since 1972
62 TR4
73 Stag
2000 S2000 since new

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 4, 2018, at 6:51 PM, Jim Henningsen <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 08:20:23 -0800 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_4570_01D474E0.682664F0"

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> What kind of oil are you using in the dash pots?  If the oil 
> is too heavy, it may overdamp the pistons, causing them to 
> rise too slowly and momentarily weaken the mixture, causing 
> the hesitation. I find 3 in 1 is about the right weight. 

Actually, it's just the opposite.  Heavier oil makes the mixture go richer
right after you open the throttle.  Using oil that is too light can cause a
"lean bog" (like Jim described).

The book actually recommends 30 weight for temps between 40F and 70F; 40
weight above that.  Optimum for you may vary somewhat, depending on engine
condition and so forth; but I have always found that performance suffers
with less then 20 weight

>   The choke cable is hard to pull 
> out.  Takes two ands
> > to pull out and then twist to lock.  That's to really get the choke 
> > levers to move both jets down.  Is this normal or maybe I 
> need a new choke cable.

Not normal, but unfortunately rather common.  Did you polish the jets when
you had the carbs apart?  Originals were supplied polished, but the
replacements I've seen have been dull.  Dull means a rough finish, which
greatly increases the friction against the glands.

The linkage also goes together in an odd way.  If you put it together the
way it seems it should go, it's harder to operate the choke.  The two
clevises hang out behind the levers, rather than straddlings them.

I like to replace the gland sping (inside the jet housing) and the return
springs during a rebuild, especially if you don't know the full history of
them.  It's not uncommon for people to stretch the gland spring out a bit,
in an attempt to get the glands to quit leaking.  The extra pressure
increases friction, to the extent that often the jets won't return after
using the choke.  So then they shorten the return spring.  Both actions make
the choke more difficult to operate!

-- Randall

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From: James Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 12:07:24 -0500

Randall:
Thanks for the note. John Twist from University Motors and YouTube fame also recommended using a heavier oil for better acceleration.  He liked using tranny gear oil. 
Jim Henningsen 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 5, 2018, at 11:20 AM, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
> <FIG 28 CARBURETTORS (LINKAGE) reduced.jpg>

---

From: James Henningsen <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 12:09:08 -0500

Thanks Tom.   If Jere says that’s the way to go, so shall it be written.  I do like the idea of holding the accelerator pedal down when pulling the choke.  Will try that.  My cable may need to be replaced as there are no clicks anymore.  Now I just need to get back to the garage and try these things.  
Jim Henningsen 

Sent from my iPhone

> On Nov 5, 2018, at 7:50 AM, Thomas Fansher <[email-masked]> wrote:
>

---

From: David P <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 16:41:50 -0700

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Randall is quite correct.. if the piston rises too quickly air flow 
(velocity) across the jet head is lost/decreased and the mixture goes 
lean. The dampers (of which there are different sizes-BTW) at as a 
defacto accelerator pump by keeping the piston from rising too quickly.. 
Hope this info clears up some SU mystery.

On 11/5/2018 9:20 AM, Randall wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/

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    <p>Randall is quite correct.. if the piston rises too quickly air
      flow (velocity) across the jet head is lost/decreased and the
      mixture goes lean. The dampers (of which there are different
      sizes-BTW) at as a defacto accelerator pump by keeping the piston
      from rising too quickly.. Hope this info clears up some SU
      mystery.<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 11/5/2018 9:20 AM, Randall wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:AE846037AD2D44809715F7383DE0A1E3@RYPC">
      <pre wrap="">
</pre>
      <blockquote type="cite">
        <pre wrap="">What kind of oil are you using in the dash pots?  If the oil 
is too heavy, it may overdamp the pistons, causing them to 
rise too slowly and momentarily weaken the mixture, causing 
the hesitation. I find 3 in 1 is about the right weight. 
</pre>
      </blockquote>
      <pre wrap="">
Actually, it's just the opposite.  Heavier oil makes the mixture go richer
right after you open the throttle.  Using oil that is too light can cause a
"lean bog" (like Jim described).

</pre>
      <blockquote type="cite">
        <pre wrap="">  The choke cable is hard to pull 
out.  Takes two ands
</pre>
        <blockquote type="cite">
          <pre wrap="">to pull out and then twist to lock.  That's to really get the choke 
levers to move both jets down.  Is this normal or maybe I 
</pre>
        </blockquote>
        <pre wrap="">need a new choke cable.
</pre>
      </blockquote>
      <pre wrap="">
Not normal, but unfortunately rather common.  Did you polish the jets when
you had the carbs apart?  Originals were supplied polished, but the
replacements I've seen have been dull.  Dull means a rough finish, which
greatly increases the friction against the glands.

-- Randall
</pre>
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
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      <pre wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

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</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
    <pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">-- 
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
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From: "Jim Henningsen" <[email-masked]>
Date: Mon, 5 Nov 2018 19:41:09 -0500

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Update:

I got a glass of wine, my comfy work chair up to the side of Neville's
engine bay and began retuning the carbs.  Yes, his name is Neville.  Pulled
choke out with gas pedal to floor.  Did help a little bit but still required
second hand to get it where I wanted to.  Engine warmed up, idle and air
flow reset on each carb.  Definite hesitation on acceleration.  Enriched
mixture on each carb one flat at a time and tested accelerator. On third
flat it accelerated smoothly!  Eureeka!  Readjusted idle again.  Its happy
place is right at 900 rpm.  Will go lower, but doesn't like it.   Where I
had the mixture previously adjusted seemed right since the idle reacted as
manual states when I lifted piston.  However, it wasn't "right" overall.
I'll give it a road test later when it dries out.  Thank you all for your
patience and advice.  And of course upon buttoning up the hood, one of the
hood fasteners stripped.  Ugh.  

Cheers,

Jim Henningsen

From: David P <[email-masked]> 
Sent: Monday, November 05, 2018 6:42 PM
To: Randall <[email-masked]>; 'Jim Henningsen' <[email-masked]>
Cc: 'triumphs' <[email-masked]>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Choke Question

Randall is quite correct.. if the piston rises too quickly air flow
(velocity) across the jet head is lost/decreased and the mixture goes lean.
The dampers (of which there are different sizes-BTW) at as a defacto
accelerator pump by keeping the piston from rising too quickly.. Hope this
info clears up some SU mystery.

 

need a new choke cable.

 
 
-- Randall

 
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

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Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My
World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/ <http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/> 

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lang=3DEN-US link=3Dblue vlink=3Dpurple><div class=3DWordSection1><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Update:<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>I got a =
glass of wine, my comfy work chair up to the side of Neville&#8217;s =
engine bay and began retuning the carbs. &nbsp;Yes, his name is =
Neville.&nbsp; Pulled choke out with gas pedal to floor.&nbsp; Did help =
a little bit but still required second hand to get it where I wanted =
to.&nbsp; Engine warmed up, idle and air flow reset on each carb.&nbsp; =
Definite hesitation on acceleration.&nbsp; Enriched mixture on each carb =
one flat at a time and tested accelerator. On third flat it accelerated =
smoothly!&nbsp; Eureeka! &nbsp;Readjusted idle again.&nbsp; Its happy =
place is right at 900 rpm.&nbsp; Will go lower, but doesn&#8217;t like =
it.&nbsp; &nbsp;Where I had the mixture previously adjusted seemed right =
since the idle reacted as manual states when I lifted piston.&nbsp; =
However, it wasn&#8217;t &#8220;right&#8221; overall.&nbsp; I&#8217;ll =
give it a road test later when it dries out.&nbsp; Thank you all for =
your patience and advice.&nbsp; And of course upon buttoning up the =
hood, one of the hood fasteners stripped.&nbsp; Ugh.&nbsp; =
<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal>Cheers,<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>Jim Henningsen<o:p></o:p></p><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><div =
style=3D'border:none;border-top:solid #E1E1E1 1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0in =
0in 0in'><p class=3DMsoNormal><b>From:</b> David P =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt; <br><b>Sent:</b> Monday, November 05, =
2018 6:42 PM<br><b>To:</b> Randall &lt;[email-masked]&gt;; 'Jim =
Henningsen' &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Cc:</b> 'triumphs' =
&lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br><b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR3A Choke =
Question<o:p></o:p></p></div></div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><p>Randall is quite correct.. if =
the piston rises too quickly air flow (velocity) across the jet head is =
lost/decreased and the mixture goes lean. The dampers (of which there =
are different sizes-BTW) at as a defacto accelerator pump by keeping the =
piston from rising too quickly.. Hope this info clears up some SU =
mystery.<o:p></o:p></p><p class=3DMsoNormal><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></p><div><p =
class=3DMsoNormal>On 11/5/2018 9:20 AM, Randall =
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p></div><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pr=
e><blockquote style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><pre>What =
kind of oil are you using in the dash pots?&nbsp; If the oil =
<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>is too heavy, it may overdamp the pistons, causing =
them to <o:p></o:p></pre><pre>rise too slowly and momentarily weaken the =
mixture, causing <o:p></o:p></pre><pre>the hesitation. I find 3 in 1 is =
about the right weight. =
<o:p></o:p></pre></blockquote><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>Actually, =
it's just the opposite.&nbsp; Heavier oil makes the mixture go =
richer<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>right after you open the throttle.&nbsp; =
Using oil that is too light can cause a<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>&quot;lean =
bog&quot; (like Jim =
described).<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>The book =
actually recommends 30 weight for temps between 40F and 70F; =
40<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>weight above that.&nbsp; Optimum for you may =
vary somewhat, depending on engine<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>condition and so =
forth; but I have always found that performance =
suffers<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>with less then 20 =
weight<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><pre>&nbsp; The choke =
cable is hard to pull <o:p></o:p></pre><pre>out.&nbsp; Takes two =
ands<o:p></o:p></pre><blockquote =
style=3D'margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt'><pre>to pull out and then =
twist to lock.&nbsp; That's to really get the choke =
<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>levers to move both jets down.&nbsp; Is this =
normal or maybe I <o:p></o:p></pre></blockquote><pre>need a new choke =
cable.<o:p></o:p></pre></blockquote><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>Not =
normal, but unfortunately rather common.&nbsp; Did you polish the jets =
when<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>you had the carbs apart?&nbsp; Originals were =
supplied polished, but the<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>replacements I've seen =
have been dull.&nbsp; Dull means a rough finish, =
which<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>greatly increases the friction against the =
glands.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>The linkage =
also goes together in an odd way.&nbsp; If you put it together =
the<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>way it seems it should go, it's harder to =
operate the choke.&nbsp; The two<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>clevises hang out =
behind the levers, rather than straddlings =
them.<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>I like to replace =
the gland sping (inside the jet housing) and the =
return<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>springs during a rebuild, especially if you =
don't know the full history of<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>them.&nbsp; It's not =
uncommon for people to stretch the gland spring out a =
bit,<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>in an attempt to get the glands to quit =
leaking.&nbsp; The extra pressure<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>increases =
friction, to the extent that often the jets won't return =
after<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>using the choke.&nbsp; So then they shorten =
the return spring.&nbsp; Both actions make<o:p></o:p></pre><pre>the =
choke more difficult to =
operate!<o:p></o:p></pre><pre><o:p>&nbsp;</o:p></pre><pre>-- =
Randall<o:p></o:p></pre><p =
class=3DMsoNormal><br><br><br><o:p></o:p></p><pre>** <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> =
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From: Michael Marr <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 03:43:45 +0000

Hmmm, now I think about it, I see your point Randall.  The heavier oil makes the piston rise more slowly, increasing the velocity across the jet, increasing the vacuum in the throat and sucking more gas in.  I was thinking purely in a mechanical sense, that if the piston rose too slowly, the annular space between the needle and the jet would be too small to allow sufficient fuel to flow, but I was forgetting about good old Bernoulli. I was basing this opinion on my own car, which had the same problem as Jim’s.  I tried replacing the 30 wt oil in the dashpots with household machine oil (3 in 1) and everything was fine, thereafter.  But, my carbs are worn and who knew what else was going on.

Thanks for making me think this through!

Mike

Michael Marr
Albion Technical Services
Mobile:  630-202-0065

Sent from my iPad

> On Nov 5, 2018, at 17:13, Randall <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>

---

From: Creig Houghtaling <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 16:00:07 +0000

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I rebuilt a pair of carbs 3 times trying to figure out the trick.  The best=
 advice I got was soak the cork seals in oil.  Not just for an hour or over=
night.  Try a week.  When I put the carbs together and leave the nuts squee=
zing the seals on with a light amount of pressure.  Put everything together=
.  You'll notice the chokes work very nicely.  But when you run the car, th=
e seals will leak gasoline.  Tighten the seal nuts a little at a time till =
the gas stops leaking.  If you're lucky you might still be able to pull the=
 choke.

I am curious if anyone has used the new seals I see that Moss sells?  Are t=
hey any better?

Creig
________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Jim Henningse=
n <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 5:51 PM
To: 'triumphs'
Subject: [TR] TR3A Choke Question

better with choke on.   The choke cable is hard to pull out.  Takes two and=
s

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

@live.com

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
I rebuilt a pair of carbs 3 times trying to figure out the trick.&nbsp; The=
 best advice I got was soak the cork seals in oil.&nbsp; Not just for an ho=
ur or overnight.&nbsp; Try a week.&nbsp; When I put the carbs together and =
leave the nuts squeezing the seals on with a light amount
 of pressure.&nbsp; Put everything together.&nbsp; You'll notice the chokes=
 work very nicely.&nbsp; But when you run the car, the seals will leak gaso=
line.&nbsp; Tighten the seal nuts a little at a time till the gas stops lea=
king.&nbsp; If you're lucky you might still be able to pull
 the choke.</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
I am curious if anyone has used the new seals I see that Moss sells?&nbsp; =
Are they any better?</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
Creig</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Calib=
ri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]=
om&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, November 4, 2018 5:51 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'triumphs'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR3A Choke Question</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt"=
<div class=3D"PlainText">I have finished rebuilding the carbs, new carb lin=
kage etc.&nbsp; Unfortunately<br>
after all this tuning the carbs hesitate at first push of the pedal.&nbsp; =
They<br>
kind of go&nbsp; huhh&nbsp; then rev the engine. It's a hesitation.&nbsp; S=
eems to be<br>
better with choke on.&nbsp;&nbsp; The choke cable is hard to pull out.&nbsp=
; Takes two ands<br>
to pull out and then twist to lock.&nbsp; That's to really get the choke le=
vers<br>
to move both jets down.&nbsp; Is this normal or maybe I need a new choke ca=
ble.<br>
I think the resistance is in the mechanism engineering.&nbsp; Any thoughts =
on<br>
aither issue.&nbsp; Hard choke pull or hesitation.<br>
Thanks<br>
Jim Henningsen (aka still learning the 3)<br>
Ocala, FL<br>
61 TR3A<br>
62 TR4<br>
75 TR6<br>
82 Jeep CJ8<br>
02 Triumph Trophy 1200<br>
<br>
** [email-masked] **<br>
<br>
ate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team=
.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/[email-masked]">
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]</a><br>
</div>
</span></font></div>
</body>
</html>

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From: Creig Houghtaling <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 16:23:36 +0000

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"The linkage also goes together in an odd way.  If you put it together the
way it seems it should go, it's harder to operate the choke.  The two
clevises hang out behind the levers, rather than straddlings them."

This is something I have not seen yet.  I'm new to TR3.  I wondered why the=
 clevis pin was so long.  I'm going to try changing the link to the side  t=
o see if that improves the pull.  Can't quite see in the picture:  Does the=
 cable attach to the clevis pin on the opposite side of the arm  from the l=
ink?
________________________________
From: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Randall <TR3d=
[email-masked]>
Sent: Monday, November 5, 2018 10:20 AM
To: 'Jim Henningsen'
Cc: 'triumphs'
Subject: Re: [TR] TR3A Choke Question

using the choke.  So then they shorten the return spring.  Both actions mak=

-- Randall

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<html>
<head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859-=
1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-bo=
ttom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
&quot;<span style=3D"display: inline !important; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); fo=
nt-family: &quot;Segoe UI&quot;,&quot;Segoe UI Web (West European)&quot;,&q=
uot;Segoe UI&quot;,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Roboto&quot;,&quo=
t;Helvetica Neue&quot;,sans-serif; font-size: 14.66px; font-size-adjust: no=
ne; font-stretch: 100%">The
 linkage also goes together in an odd way.&nbsp; If you put it together the=
</span><br style=3D" color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: &amp;quot; font-s=
ize: 14.66px">
<span style=3D"display: inline !important; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-fam=
ily: &quot;Segoe UI&quot;,&quot;Segoe UI Web (West European)&quot;,&quot;Se=
goe UI&quot;,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Roboto&quot;,&quot;Helv=
etica Neue&quot;,sans-serif; font-size: 14.66px; font-size-adjust: none; fo=
nt-stretch: 100%">way
 it seems it should go, it's harder to operate the choke.&nbsp; The two</sp=
an><br style=3D" color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-family: &amp;quot; font-size:=
 14.66px">
<span style=3D"display: inline !important; color: rgb(51, 51, 51); font-fam=
ily: &quot;Segoe UI&quot;,&quot;Segoe UI Web (West European)&quot;,&quot;Se=
goe UI&quot;,-apple-system,BlinkMacSystemFont,&quot;Roboto&quot;,&quot;Helv=
etica Neue&quot;,sans-serif; font-size: 14.66px; font-size-adjust: none; fo=
nt-stretch: 100%">clevises
 hang out behind the levers, rather than straddlings them.</span>&quot;</di=
v>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
This is something I have not seen yet.&nbsp; I'm new to TR3.&nbsp; I wonder=
ed why the clevis pin was so long.&nbsp; I'm going to try changing the link=
 to the side&nbsp; to see if that improves the pull.&nbsp; Can't quite see =
in the picture:&nbsp; Does the cable attach to the clevis pin
 on the opposite side of the arm&nbsp; from the link?</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; f=
ont-size:12pt">
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Calib=
ri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumphs=
[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Randall &lt;[email-masked]&gt=
;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Monday, November 5, 2018 10:20 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'Jim Henningsen'<br>
<b>Cc:</b> 'triumphs'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> Re: [TR] TR3A Choke Question</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt"=
<div class=3D"PlainText"><br>
&gt; What kind of oil are you using in the dash pots?&nbsp; If the oil <br>
&gt; is too heavy, it may overdamp the pistons, causing them to <br>
&gt; rise too slowly and momentarily weaken the mixture, causing <br>
&gt; the hesitation. I find 3 in 1 is about the right weight. <br>
<br>
Actually, it's just the opposite.&nbsp; Heavier oil makes the mixture go ri=
cher<br>
right after you open the throttle.&nbsp; Using oil that is too light can ca=
use a<br>
&quot;lean bog&quot; (like Jim described).<br>
<br>
The book actually recommends 30 weight for temps between 40F and 70F; 40<br=
weight above that.&nbsp; Optimum for you may vary somewhat, depending on en=
gine<br>
condition and so forth; but I have always found that performance suffers<br=
with less then 20 weight<br>
<br>
&gt;&nbsp;&nbsp; The choke cable is hard to pull <br>
&gt; out.&nbsp; Takes two ands<br>
&gt; &gt; to pull out and then twist to lock.&nbsp; That's to really get th=
e choke <br>
&gt; &gt; levers to move both jets down.&nbsp; Is this normal or maybe I <b=
r>
&gt; need a new choke cable.<br>
<br>
Not normal, but unfortunately rather common.&nbsp; Did you polish the jets =
when<br>
you had the carbs apart?&nbsp; Originals were supplied polished, but the<br=
replacements I've seen have been dull.&nbsp; Dull means a rough finish, whi=
ch<br>
greatly increases the friction against the glands.<br>
<br>
The linkage also goes together in an odd way.&nbsp; If you put it together =
the<br>
way it seems it should go, it's harder to operate the choke.&nbsp; The two<=
br>
clevises hang out behind the levers, rather than straddlings them.<br>
<br>
I like to replace the gland sping (inside the jet housing) and the return<b=
r>
springs during a rebuild, especially if you don't know the full history of<=
br>
them.&nbsp; It's not uncommon for people to stretch the gland spring out a =
bit,<br>
in an attempt to get the glands to quit leaking.&nbsp; The extra pressure<b=
r>
increases friction, to the extent that often the jets won't return after<br=
using the choke.&nbsp; So then they shorten the return spring.&nbsp; Both a=
ctions make<br>
the choke more difficult to operate!<br>
<br>
-- Randall<br>
</div>
</span></font></div>
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From: "Randall" <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 08:58:54 -0800 boundary="----=_NextPart_000_45F8_01D475AE.F3BC24E0"

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> This is something I have not seen yet.  I'm new to TR3.  I 
> wondered why the clevis pin was so long.  I'm going to try 
> changing the link to the side  to see if that improves the 
> pull.  Can't quite see in the picture:  Does the cable attach 
> to the clevis pin on the opposite side of the arm  from the link?

Yes.  If you have the correct front pin (P/N 113454, item 69 in attached
drawing), one end has threads for the nut that retains the choke cable to
the pin.  The other end is plain, and goes through the arm then the link.

BTW, that illustration is from the factory 'Spare Parts Catalogue', which
can be a very useful document (especially if you order parts from The
Roadster Factory).  I maintain a PDF version, which you can download from
https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2H2NJt34OffMWQ4N2EzZGQtNjc0Ny00YmE2LWFiN2
UtZWYzMjNjNGFiYzY4

Feel free to let me know if you find any issues, want to suggest
improvements, or by any chance have the missing page (page 1 of
Supplementary Amendment #5, issued June 1964).

-- Randall

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From: Frank Fisher <[email-masked]>
Date: Tue, 6 Nov 2018 22:35:23 +0000 (UTC)

--===============4662128589328449415==
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 when i re-built my carbs i had the same issue. tight as money lenders wall=
et.and i believe it was the cork gaskets.luckily here in southern californi=
a desert i didnt need to use the choke.now some years later i find they hav=
e bedded into the cork and they work great.
    On Tuesday, November 6, 2018, 9:48:27 AM PST, Creig Houghtaling <creig5=
[email-masked]> wrote: =20
=20
 I rebuilt a pair of carbs 3 times trying to figure out the trick.=C2=A0 Th=
e best advice I got was soak the cork seals in oil.=C2=A0 Not just for an h=
our or overnight.=C2=A0 Try a week.=C2=A0 When I put the carbs together and=
 leave the nuts squeezing the seals on with a light amount of pressure.=C2=
=A0 Put everything together.=C2=A0 You'll notice the chokes work very nicel=
y.=C2=A0 But when you run the car, the seals will leak gasoline.=C2=A0 Tigh=
ten the seal nuts a little at a time till the gas stops leaking.=C2=A0 If y=
ou're lucky you might still be able to pull the choke.
I am curious if anyone has used the new seals I see that Moss sells?=C2=A0 =
Are they any better?
CreigFrom: Triumphs <[email-masked]> on behalf of Jim Henn=
ingsen <[email-masked]>
Sent: Sunday, November 4, 2018 5:51 PM
To: 'triumphs'
Subject: [TR] TR3A Choke Question=C2=A0I have finished rebuilding the carbs=
, new carb linkage etc.=C2=A0 Unfortunately
after all this tuning the carbs hesitate at first push of the pedal.=C2=A0 =
They
kind of go=C2=A0 huhh=C2=A0 then rev the engine. It's a hesitation.=C2=A0 S=
eems to be
better with choke on.=C2=A0=C2=A0 The choke cable is hard to pull out.=C2=
=A0 Takes two ands
to pull out and then twist to lock.=C2=A0 That's to really get the choke le=
vers
to move both jets down.=C2=A0 Is this normal or maybe I need a new choke ca=
ble.
I think the resistance is in the mechanism engineering.=C2=A0 Any thoughts =
on
aither issue.=C2=A0 Hard choke pull or hesitation.
Thanks
Jim Henningsen (aka still learning the 3)
Ocala, FL
61 TR3A
62 TR4
75 TR6
82 Jeep CJ8
02 Triumph Trophy 1200

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs=C2=A0http://www.team.net/ar=
chive

@live.com

[email-masked]
 =20
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<html><head></head><body><div class="ydpa5dd524cyahoo-style-wrap" style="font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
        <div>when i re-built my carbs i had the same issue. tight as money lenders wallet.</div><div>and i believe it was the cork gaskets.</div><div>luckily here in southern california desert i didnt need to use the choke.</div><div>now some years later i find they have bedded into the cork and they work great.</div><div><br></div>
        
        </div><div id="ydpf3aa2d23yahoo_quoted_1671927701" class="ydpf3aa2d23yahoo_quoted">
            <div style="font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
                
                <div>
                    On Tuesday, November 6, 2018, 9:48:27 AM PST, Creig Houghtaling &lt;[email-masked]&gt; wrote:
                </div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><br></div>
                <div><div id="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880"><div dir="ltr">
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">
I rebuilt a pair of carbs 3 times trying to figure out the trick.&nbsp; The best advice I got was soak the cork seals in oil.&nbsp; Not just for an hour or overnight.&nbsp; Try a week.&nbsp; When I put the carbs together and leave the nuts squeezing the seals on with a light amount
 of pressure.&nbsp; Put everything together.&nbsp; You'll notice the chokes work very nicely.&nbsp; But when you run the car, the seals will leak gasoline.&nbsp; Tighten the seal nuts a little at a time till the gas stops leaking.&nbsp; If you're lucky you might still be able to pull
 the choke.</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">
<br clear="none">
</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">
I am curious if anyone has used the new seals I see that Moss sells?&nbsp; Are they any better?</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">
<br clear="none">
</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">
Creig</div>
<div style="color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Calibri, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:12pt;">
</div>
<hr tabindex="-1" style="display:inline-block;width:98%;">
<div class="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880yqt2600716873" id="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880yqtfd17449"><div dir="ltr" id="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880divRplyFwdMsg"><font color="#000000" face="Calibri, sans-serif" style="font-size:11pt;"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;[email-masked]&gt; on behalf of Jim Henningsen &lt;[email-masked]&gt;<br clear="none">
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, November 4, 2018 5:51 PM<br clear="none">
<b>To:</b> 'triumphs'<br clear="none">
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR3A Choke Question</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
</div><div class="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880BodyFragment"><div class="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880yqt2600716873" id="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880yqtfd45687"><font size="2"><span style="font-size:11pt;">
</span></font></div><div class="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880PlainText"><div class="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880yqt2600716873" id="ydpf3aa2d23yiv3639671880yqtfd54993">I have finished rebuilding the carbs, new carb linkage etc.&nbsp; Unfortunately<br clear="none">
after all this tuning the carbs hesitate at first push of the pedal.&nbsp; They<br clear="none">
kind of go&nbsp; huhh&nbsp; then rev the engine. It's a hesitation.&nbsp; Seems to be<br clear="none">
better with choke on.&nbsp;&nbsp; The choke cable is hard to pull out.&nbsp; Takes two ands<br clear="none">
to pull out and then twist to lock.&nbsp; That's to really get the choke levers<br clear="none">
to move both jets down.&nbsp; Is this normal or maybe I need a new choke cable.<br clear="none">
I think the resistance is in the mechanism engineering.&nbsp; Any thoughts on<br clear="none">
aither issue.&nbsp; Hard choke pull or hesitation.<br clear="none">
Thanks<br clear="none">
Jim Henningsen (aka still learning the 3)<br clear="none">
Ocala, FL<br clear="none">
61 TR3A<br clear="none">
62 TR4<br clear="none">
75 TR6<br clear="none">
82 Jeep CJ8<br clear="none">
02 Triumph Trophy 1200<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
** [email-masked] **<br clear="none">
<br clear="none">
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From: Randall <[email-masked]> voneROKicniJiLB2a2KvLfxCzOgCPyHaFN/8lZKJ7IDVpgEH88jyo1/IjpR7LsyHF1PtgeiD+DsokGCcfQOzfMgwHDrfMZY+e6BLR46uXNP6zA56dnGjUz5A PsD/Pw4SeNFZispGpLQo1x+Ip4+8CNwQX3o6gKc2ZU7RXohTd1tuiFDf0zqkmvnq
Date: Tue, 06 Nov 2018 14:56:13 -0800

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------8GG08DL2LJJWTREE4KNXW255L9EBQN
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

Yes, the modern seals are much better=2E
But, they are just standard nitrile rubber (aka Buna-N) O-rings=2E=20

If you measure the size (sorry, I don't recall offhand) you can get them a=
 lot cheaper than Moss=2E
-- Randall

On 6 November 2018 08:00:07 GMT-08:00, Creig Houghtaling <creig555@live=2E=
com> wrote:
>I rebuilt a pair of carbs 3 times trying to figure out the trick=2E  The
>best advice I got was soak the cork seals in oil=2E  Not just for an hour
>or overnight=2E  Try a week=2E  When I put the carbs together and leave t=
he
>nuts squeezing the seals on with a light amount of pressure=2E  Put
>everything together=2E  You'll notice the chokes work very nicely=2E  But
>when you run the car, the seals will leak gasoline=2E  Tighten the seal
>nuts a little at a time till the gas stops leaking=2E  If you're lucky
>you might still be able to pull the choke=2E
>
>I am curious if anyone has used the new seals I see that Moss sells?=20
>Are they any better?
>
>Creig
>From: Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox=2Eteam=2Enet> on behalf of Jim
>Henningsen <trguy75@gmail=2Ecom>
>I have finished rebuilding the carbs, new carb linkage etc=2E=20
>Unfortunately
>after all this tuning the carbs hesitate at first push of the pedal=2E=20
>They
>kind of go  huhh  then rev the engine=2E It's a hesitation=2E  Seems to b=
e
>better with choke on=2E   The choke cable is hard to pull out=2E  Takes t=
wo
>ands
>to pull out and then twist to lock=2E  That's to really get the choke
>levers
>to move both jets down=2E  Is this normal or maybe I need a new choke
>cable=2E
>I think the resistance is in the mechanism engineering=2E  Any thoughts
>on
>aither issue=2E  Hard choke pull or hesitation=2E
>Thanks
>** triumphs@autox=2Eteam=2Enet **
>
>Donate: http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/donate=2Ehtml
>Archive: http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/triumphs=20
>http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/archive
>
>Unsubscribe/Manage:
>http://autox=2Eteam=2Enet/mailman/options/triumphs/creig555@live=2Ecom

------8GG08DL2LJJWTREE4KNXW255L9EBQN
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

<html><head>
<meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3Diso-8859=
-1">
<style type=3D"text/css" style=3D"display:none;"> P {margin-top:0;margin-b=
ottom:0;} </style>
</head>
<body dir=3D"ltr">Yes, the modern seals are much better=2E<br>But, they ar=
e just standard nitrile rubber (aka Buna-N) O-rings=2E <br><br>If you measu=
re the size (sorry, I don't recall offhand) you can get them a lot cheaper =
than Moss=2E<br>-- Randall<br><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On 6 November =
2018 08:00:07 GMT-08:00, Creig Houghtaling &lt;creig555@live=2Ecom&gt; wrot=
e:<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin: 0pt 0pt 0pt 0=2E8ex; b=
order-left: 1px solid rgb(204, 204, 204); padding-left: 1ex;">

<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
font-size:12pt">
I rebuilt a pair of carbs 3 times trying to figure out the trick=2E&nbsp; =
The best advice I got was soak the cork seals in oil=2E&nbsp; Not just for =
an hour or overnight=2E&nbsp; Try a week=2E&nbsp; When I put the carbs toge=
ther and leave the nuts squeezing the seals on with a light amount
 of pressure=2E&nbsp; Put everything together=2E&nbsp; You'll notice the c=
hokes work very nicely=2E&nbsp; But when you run the car, the seals will le=
ak gasoline=2E&nbsp; Tighten the seal nuts a little at a time till the gas =
stops leaking=2E&nbsp; If you're lucky you might still be able to pull
 the choke=2E</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
font-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
font-size:12pt">
I am curious if anyone has used the new seals I see that Moss sells?&nbsp;=
 Are they any better?</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
font-size:12pt">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
font-size:12pt">
Creig</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0); font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif; =
font-size:12pt">
</div>
<hr tabindex=3D"-1" style=3D"display:inline-block; width:98%">
<div id=3D"divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font color=3D"#000000" face=3D"Cali=
bri, sans-serif" style=3D"font-size:11pt"><b>From:</b> Triumphs &lt;triumph=
s-bounces@autox=2Eteam=2Enet&gt; on behalf of Jim Henningsen &lt;trguy75@gm=
ail=2Ecom&gt;<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Sunday, November 4, 2018 5:51 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> 'triumphs'<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR3A Choke Question</font>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
</div>
<div class=3D"BodyFragment"><font size=3D"2"><span style=3D"font-size:11pt=
">
<div class=3D"PlainText">I have finished rebuilding the carbs, new carb li=
nkage etc=2E&nbsp; Unfortunately<br>
after all this tuning the carbs hesitate at first push of the pedal=2E&nbs=
p; They<br>
kind of go&nbsp; huhh&nbsp; then rev the engine=2E It's a hesitation=2E&nb=
sp; Seems to be<br>
better with choke on=2E&nbsp;&nbsp; The choke cable is hard to pull out=2E=
&nbsp; Takes two ands<br>
to pull out and then twist to lock=2E&nbsp; That's to really get the choke=
 levers<br>
to move both jets down=2E&nbsp; Is this normal or maybe I need a new choke=
 cable=2E<br>
I think the resistance is in the mechanism engineering=2E&nbsp; Any though=
ts on<br>
aither issue=2E&nbsp; Hard choke pull or hesitation=2E<br>
Thanks<br>
Jim Henningsen (aka still learning the 3)<br>
Ocala, FL<br>
61 TR3A<br>
62 TR4<br>
75 TR6<br>
82 Jeep CJ8<br>
02 Triumph Trophy 1200<br>
<br>
** triumphs@autox=2Eteam=2Enet **<br>
<br>
m=2Enet/donate=2Ehtml</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/triumphs">http://www=
=2Eteam=2Enet/pipermail/triumphs</a>&nbsp;
<a href=3D"http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/archive">http://www=2Eteam=2Enet/archiv=
e</a><br>
<br>
riumphs/creig555@live=2Ecom">
http://autox=2Eteam=2Enet/mailman/options/triumphs/creig555@live=2Ecom</a>=
<br>
</div>
</span></font></div>

</blockquote></div></body></html>
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From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2018 20:15:08 -0500 (EST)

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It does.  I've been running my '3A for 15 years and always used 20 weight.  Will switch to 30 now.  Difference not likely to be huge, but after all this time I'll likely notice it...that is, next spring.

Terry

New Hampshire

> On November 5, 2018 at 6:41 PM David P <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
> 
>     Randall is quite correct.. if the piston rises too quickly air flow (velocity) across the jet head is lost/decreased and the mixture goes lean. The dampers (of which there are different sizes-BTW) at as a defacto accelerator pump by keeping the piston from rising too quickly.. Hope this info clears up some SU mystery.
> 
> 
> >         ** [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] **
> > 
>     Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My World go here: http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
> 
>      http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
> 
> 
>     Virus-free. www.avg.com http://www.avg.com/email-signature?utm_medium=email&utm_source=link&utm_campaign=sig-email&utm_content=emailclient
> 

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">It does.&#160; I&#39;ve been running my =
&#39;3A for 15 years and always used 20 weight.&#160; Will switch to 30 now=
.&#160; Difference not likely to be huge, but after all this time I&#39;ll =
likely notice it...that is, next spring.<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;=
font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-sty=
le">Terry</p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-se=
rif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">New Hampshire<br></p><blockquot=
e type=3D"cite">On November 5, 2018 at 6:41 PM David P &#60;frogeye@porters=
custom.com&#62; wrote: <br> <br><p>Randall is quite correct.. if the piston=
 rises too quickly air flow (velocity) across the jet head is lost/decrease=
d and the mixture goes lean. The dampers (of which there are different size=
s-BTW) at as a defacto accelerator pump by keeping the piston from rising t=
oo quickly.. Hope this info clears up some SU mystery.<br></p><br><div clas=
s=3D"ox-48e6f36f64-moz-cite-prefix">On 11/5/2018 9:20 AM, Randall wrote: <b=
r></div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><pre>&#160;</pre><blockquote type=3D"cite=
"><pre>What kind of oil are you using in the dash pots?  If the oil=20
is too heavy, it may overdamp the pistons, causing them to=20
rise too slowly and momentarily weaken the mixture, causing=20
the hesitation. I find 3 in 1 is about the right weight.=20
</pre></blockquote><pre>Actually, it&#39;s just the opposite.  Heavier oil =
makes the mixture go richer
right after you open the throttle.  Using oil that is too light can cause a
&#34;lean bog&#34; (like Jim described).

</pre><blockquote type=3D"cite"><pre>  The choke cable is hard to pull=20
out.  Takes two ands
</pre><blockquote type=3D"cite"><pre>to pull out and then twist to lock.  T=
hat&#39;s to really get the choke=20
levers to move both jets down.  Is this normal or maybe I=20
</pre></blockquote><pre>need a new choke cable.
</pre></blockquote><pre>Not normal, but unfortunately rather common.  Did y=
ou polish the jets when
you had the carbs apart?  Originals were supplied polished, but the
replacements I&#39;ve seen have been dull.  Dull means a rough finish, whic=
h
greatly increases the friction against the glands.

The linkage also goes together in an odd way.  If you put it together the
way it seems it should go, it&#39;s harder to operate the choke.  The two
clevises hang out behind the levers, rather than straddlings them.

I like to replace the gland sping (inside the jet housing) and the return
springs during a rebuild, especially if you don&#39;t know the full history=
 of
them.  It&#39;s not uncommon for people to stretch the gland spring out a b=
it,
in an attempt to get the glands to quit leaking.  The extra pressure
increases friction, to the extent that often the jets won&#39;t return afte=
r
using the choke.  So then they shorten the return spring.  Both actions mak=
e
the choke more difficult to operate!

-- Randall
</pre><br> <br><pre>** <a class=3D"ox-48e6f36f64-moz-txt-link-abbreviated" =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

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</a>
</pre></blockquote><br><pre class=3D"ox-48e6f36f64-moz-signature">--=20
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
rld go here: <a class=3D"ox-48e6f36f64-moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href=3D"ht=
tp://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a><br></pre><br><table sty=
le=3D"border-top: 1px solid #D3D4DE;" class=3D"mce-item-table"><tbody><tr><=
td style=3D"width: 55px; padding-top: 13px;"><a href=3D"http://www.avg.com/=
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height=3D"29"></a><br></td><td style=3D"width: 470px; padding-top: 12px; co=
lor: #41424e; font-size: 13px; font-family: Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif; l=
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From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2018 20:20:33 -0500 (EST)

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Hello, everyone.  Haven't been able to call my dependable machinist yet, where the only issue I've ever had was when I asked them to ream some lines for me.  Wound up with a cracked one that caused problems that you can imagine. 

Question is, is it more cost--and long-term--effective to simply replace front rotors with new ones from one of the Big Three, or to ask they be skimmed  by a quality machinist.  I feel those "bumps" when I slow to a stop telling me that the rotors have high spots.  Am suspecting the original rotors being 60 years old are tired and ready to retire.

Thoughts?

Terry Smith '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-se=
rif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">Hello, everyone.&#160; Haven&#3=
9;t been able to call my dependable machinist yet, where the only issue I&#=
39;ve ever had was when I asked them to ream some lines for me.&#160; Wound=
 up with a cracked one that caused problems that you can imagine.&#160; <br=
></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;colo=
r:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font=
-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">=
Question is, is it more cost--and long-term--effective to simply replace fr=
ont rotors with new ones from one of the Big Three, or to ask they be skimm=
ed&#160; by a quality machinist.&#160; I feel those &#34;bumps&#34; when I =
slow to a stop telling me that the rotors have high spots.&#160; Am suspect=
ing the original rotors being 60 years old are tired and ready to retire.<b=
r></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;col=
or:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;fon=
t-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"=
>Thoughts?<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sa=
ns-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-s=
ize:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"de=
fault-style">Terry Smith &#39;59 TR3A<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;fon=
t-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"=
>New Hamsphire<br></p></body></html>
=20
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From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Fri, 9 Nov 2018 22:23:52 -0600

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IMO, At $30ea replace them, it will cost half that to get them turned and yo=
u still have a 60 year old rotor. =20
Bill

On Nov 9, 2018, at 7:20 PM, TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]> wrote:

Hello, everyone.  Haven't been able to call my dependable machinist yet, whe=
re the only issue I've ever had was when I asked them to ream some lines for=
 me.  Wound up with a cracked one that caused problems that you can imagine.=
 =20

Question is, is it more cost--and long-term--effective to simply replace fro=
nt rotors with new ones from one of the Big Three, or to ask they be skimmed=
  by a quality machinist.  I feel those "bumps" when I slow to a stop tellin=
g me that the rotors have high spots.  Am suspecting the original rotors bei=
ng 60 years old are tired and ready to retire.

Thoughts?

Terry Smith '59 TR3A

New Hamsphire

ash.net

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<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"content-type" content=3D"text/html; charset=3D=
utf-8"></head><body dir=3D"auto">IMO, At $30ea replace them, it will cost ha=
lf that to get them turned and you still have a 60 year old rotor. &nbsp;<di=
v>Bill<br><br><div id=3D"AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr"><span style=3D"back=
ground-color: rgba(255, 255, 255, 0);">Sent from my Handspring Treo</span></=
div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Nov 9, 2018, at 7:20 PM, TERRY SMITH &lt;<a href=
=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:<br><br></=
div><div dir=3D"ltr">

    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
<p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333=
333;" class=3D"default-style">Hello, everyone.&nbsp; Haven't been able to ca=
ll my dependable machinist yet, where the only issue I've ever had was when I=
 asked them to ream some lines for me.&nbsp; Wound up with a cracked one tha=
t caused problems that you can imagine.&nbsp; <br></p><p style=3D"font-size:=
12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default=
-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-=
serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">Question is, is it more cost--=
and long-term--effective to simply replace front rotors with new ones from o=
ne of the Big Three, or to ask they be skimmed&nbsp; by a quality machinist.=
&nbsp; I feel those "bumps" when I slow to a stop telling me that the rotors=
 have high spots.&nbsp; Am suspecting the original rotors being 60 years old=
 are tired and ready to retire.<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-famil=
y:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p=
><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#33=
3333;" class=3D"default-style">Thoughts?<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;f=
ont-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style=
"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;=
color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">Terry Smith '59 TR3A<br></p><p style=
=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" cl=
ass=3D"default-style">New Hamsphire<br></p>
 </div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">=
[email-masked]</a> **</span><br><span></span><br><span>Donate: <a h=
ref=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><=
/span><br><span>Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">=
http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> &nbsp;<a href=3D"http://www.team.=
net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a></span><br><span></span><br><spa=
n>Unsubscribe/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/trium=
phs/[email-masked]">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@=
flash.net</a></span><br></div></div></body></html>=

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From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 10 Nov 2018 10:05:50 -0500 (EST)

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Thanks, Bill.  I hadn't priced them yet, just assumed they'd be expensive.

Is there a type people like best?  Slotted?  Not slotted?

> On November 9, 2018 at 11:23 PM "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]> wrote:
> 
>     IMO, At $30ea replace them, it will cost half that to get them turned and you still have a 60 year old rotor.  
>     Bill
> 
>     On Nov 9, 2018, at 7:20 PM, TERRY SMITH < [email-masked] mailto:[email-masked] > wrote:
> 
> 

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sa=
ns-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Thanks, Bill.&#160; I hadn&#39;t priced =
them yet, just assumed they&#39;d be expensive.<br></p><p style=3D"font-siz=
e: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);=
"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica, arial, sans-=
serif; color: rgb(51, 51, 51);">Is there a type people like best?&#160; Slo=
tted?&#160; Not slotted?<br></p><blockquote type=3D"cite">On November 9, 20=
18 at 11:23 PM &#34;[email-masked]&#34; &#60;[email-masked]&#62; wrote:=
 <br> <br>IMO, At $30ea replace them, it will cost half that to get them tu=
rned and you still have a 60 year old rotor. &#160;<div>Bill <br> <br><div =
id=3D"ox-f83f482f71-AppleMailSignature" dir=3D"ltr">Sent from my Handspring=
 Treo</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br>On Nov 9, 2018, at 7:20 PM, TERRY SMITH &#6=
0; <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a>&#62; wrot=
e: <br> <br></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family=
: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"ox-f83f482f71-defau=
lt-style">Hello, everyone.&#160; Haven&#39;t been able to call my dependabl=
e machinist yet, where the only issue I&#39;ve ever had was when I asked th=
em to ream some lines for me.&#160; Wound up with a cracked one that caused=
 problems that you can imagine.&#160; <br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; =
font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"ox-f83f4=
82f71-default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helv=
etica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"ox-f83f482f71-default-sty=
le">Question is, is it more cost--and long-term--effective to simply replac=
e front rotors with new ones from one of the Big Three, or to ask they be s=
kimmed&#160; by a quality machinist.&#160; I feel those &#34;bumps&#34; whe=
n I slow to a stop telling me that the rotors have high spots.&#160; Am sus=
pecting the original rotors being 60 years old are tired and ready to retir=
e.<br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-se=
rif; color: #333333;" class=3D"ox-f83f482f71-default-style"><br></p><p styl=
e=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #3333=
33;" class=3D"ox-f83f482f71-default-style">Thoughts?<br></p><p style=3D"fon=
t-size: 12pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" cla=
ss=3D"ox-f83f482f71-default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; fon=
t-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"ox-f83f482f=
71-default-style">Terry Smith &#39;59 TR3A<br></p><p style=3D"font-size: 12=
pt; font-family: helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"ox-f=
83f482f71-default-style">New Hamsphire<br></p></div><div dir=3D"ltr">** <a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> ** <br>=
 <br> Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html">http://www.team.n=
et/donate.html</a> <br> Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/t=
riumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> &#160;<a href=3D"http:/=
/www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a> <br> <br> Unsubscrib=
e/Manage: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/wbeech@=
flash.net">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]<=
/a> <br></div></div></blockquote><p style=3D"font-size: 12pt; font-family: =
helvetica,arial,sans-serif; color: #333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br>&#=
160;</p></body></html>
=20
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