Subject: Re: [TR] TR2 quick release seats

From: "TeriAnn J. Wakeman" <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 05:37:43 -0700

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On 9/29/18 4:03 AM, Chris Simo wrote:
> I had a good friend die recently after a lumber truck failed to stop 
> on the freeway.Â  That got me thinking about many things.Â  One, is 
> I'm not driving my Triumphs enough.
>
> Im going to start driving my TR2 and TR4 rain or shine.
I think it makes sense. Triumphs were meant to be driven on a daily 
basis and not to just sit in the garage awaiting a club event. My TR3 is 
a daily driver though if it is raining I Take the 1960 Land Rover instead.
>
> For the TR4, Im going to pull the carpet. put Roadkill on the floor 
> where the seats are and reinstall carpet except not putting carpet 
> under the seat. That way, I should be able to remove all carpet and 
> dry the floor when it gets wet. Any more/better ideas here?
Why not leave the carpets off and install a rubber floor mat?
>
> The TR2 is a bit more difficult. I will get wet when it rains. I can 
> omit the carpet under the seats, but I can't dry the floors under the 
> seats without removing 24 or more nuts....Â  I guess I can use my air 
> hose to blow out most of the water under there.Â  Any been there done 
> that ideas out there?
I don't know about the TR2 but the TR3 didn't have carpet on the floors. 
Under the seat was just painted metal and on the floor was a rubber mat. 
The only carpet was on the gearbox tunnel. Just do the floor the way the 
factory did for the TR3. Last time I looked The Roadster Factory had a 
good reproduction of the factory floor mats.

TeriAnn
-- 

Book - The Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and 
Canada <http://overlandtravel.us>
2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn what to write

*Because the world beckons and life waits for no one*

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    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/29/18 4:03 AM, Chris Simo wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      <div dir="auto">I had a good friend die recently after a lumber
        truck failed to stop on the freeway.Â  That got me thinking
        about many things.Â  One, is I'm not driving my Triumphs enough.
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">Im going to start driving my TR2 and TR4 rain or
          shine.<br>
        </div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    I think it makes sense. Triumphs were meant to be driven on a daily
    basis and not to just sit in the garage awaiting a club event. My
    TR3 is a daily driver though if it is raining I Take the 1960 Land
    Rover instead.<br>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <div dir="auto">
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">For the TR4, Im going to pull the carpet. put
          Roadkill on the floor where the seats are and reinstall carpet
          except not putting carpet under the seat. That way, I should
          be able to remove all carpet and dry the floor when it gets
          wet. Any more/better ideas here?</div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    Why not leave the carpets off and install a rubber floor mat?<br>
    <blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <div dir="auto">
        <div dir="auto"><br>
        </div>
        <div dir="auto">The TR2 is a bit more difficult. I will get wet
          when it rains. I can omit the carpet under the seats, but I
          can't dry the floors under the seats without removing 24 or
          more nuts....Â  I guess I can use my air hose to blow out most
          of the water under there.Â  Any been there done that ideas out
          there?</div>
      </div>
    </blockquote>
    I don't know about the TR2 but the TR3 didn't have carpet on the
    floors. Under the seat was just painted metal and on the floor was a
    rubber mat. The only carpet was on the gearbox tunnel. Just do the
    floor the way the factory did for the TR3. Last time I looked The
    Roadster Factory had a good reproduction of the factory floor mats.<br>
    <br>
    TeriAnn<br>
    -- <br>
    <div class="moz-signature">
      <p align="center"><a href="http://overlandtravel.us">Book - The
          Essential Guide to Overland Travel in the United States and
          Canada</a>
        <br>
        2 years to write and 38 years of travel and camping to learn
        what to write<br>
        <br>
        <b>Because the world beckons and life waits for no one</b></p>
    </div>
  </body>
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** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

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From: Randall <[email-masked]> b71jfRa/W5f4aR40fODkq4rmnyzOz5FJ5NSmTZTi8nMym2+M9foB/Z/e9LKHvtUeM/Jr4IoDtIFejGoAU/icTw5rYOe4pDpxXx5z6rphAJE2Y5pM9BqXduom IgpgQR+e3huu4l0ceIWmbXpwNRvBq++GGk1DPWnGOFOt/520UqyIHRPdxNEl6zCd
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 09:03:17 -0400

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I just take the seats out=2E  I slit the carpet so it lays over the tracks,=
 the bottom tracks can stay attached=2E

In the past, I've used a cheap air ratchet that makes short work of the se=
at nuts=2E But I got a cordless drill/driver last year that should make it =
even easier=2E

-- Randall
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I just take the seats out=2E  I slit the carpet so it lays over the tracks,=
 the bottom tracks can stay attached=2E<br><br>In the past, I've used a che=
ap air ratchet that makes short work of the seat nuts=2E But I got a cordle=
ss drill/driver last year that should make it even easier=2E<br><br><br>-- =
Randall
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From: "Reihing, Randall S." <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 13:50:01 +0000

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Chris,

Like many others have done I have driven my TR3A on long trips, the longest=
 once being in early spring from Toledo to Daytona and back, around 2200 mi=
les roundtrip but with several hundred more while at Daytona itself, passin=
g from snow and slush, through steady rain and windy thunderstorms to the s=
unny and warm sands of Daytona Beach itself.

So, how did we keep the car clean?

The side curtains fit really well and we never got wet. At Daytona the car =
was easy to clean. It had Triumph rubber floor mats, no carpet under the se=
ats, and the only carpet was on the transmission tunnel and the inclined ar=
ea behind the seats. Nothing on the floor itself. I had cleaned and painted=
 the floorboards with automotive primer and black paint. At the car wash we=
 pulled out the rubber floor mats and vacuumed the interior, including unde=
r the seats. No problem and the car was clean. When I first obtained the ca=
r it had carpet with sound absorbent material under it, on the floorboards =
and under the seats. It looked very nice but like you I was concerned about=
 wet conditions and the sand we would inevitably track into the car at Dayt=
ona so the floorboard carpet was removed and replaced with Triumph rubber f=
loor mats. It worked so well and there was not enough difference in the noi=
se level to warrant reinstalling them. It is still that way.

The car is a rust free CA TR3A, originally imported, sold and owned in San =
Diego. In the mid 70's it made it's way through Yellowstone National Park t=
o Ripon, WI, and then to the Toledo, Ohio, area where it now resides in my =
garage.

I have never had an issue with rain making me, my passenger, or  the interi=
or wet in driving through rain. While the rubber floor mats do make it easy=
 to clean, I also have a set of carpets for the floorboards, held in place =
with firewall clips that fit under the seats if installed. To date I have n=
ot done that but am considering it since we no longer take long trips in th=
e TR3A preferring day trips now, only in good weather with dry roads. If I =
do that I would still use the rubber floor mats over the carpets. However, =
if we were to embark on another long distance journey in the TR3A it would =
be with no carpet under the seats or on the floorboards and the rubber floo=
r mats in their place.

Randall Reihing
________________________________
From: Triumphs [[email-masked]] on behalf of Chris Simo [c=
[email-masked]]
Sent: Saturday, September 29, 2018 7:03 AM
To: list Triumph
Subject: [TR] TR2 quick release seats

I had a good friend die recently after a lumber truck failed to stop on the=
 freeway.  That got me thinking about many things.  One, is I'm not driving=
 my Triumphs enough.

For the TR4, Im going to pull the carpet. put Roadkill on the floor where t=
he seats are and reinstall carpet except not putting carpet under the seat.=
 That way, I should be able to remove all carpet and dry the floor when it =
gets wet. Any more/better ideas here?

The TR2 is a bit more difficult. I will get wet when it rains. I can omit t=
he carpet under the seats, but I can't dry the floors under the seats witho=
ut removing 24 or more nuts....  I guess I can use my air hose to blow out =
most of the water under there.  Any been there done that ideas out there?

Thanks!

Sent from my TRASH-80

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<div style=3D"direction: ltr;font-family: Tahoma;color: #000000;font-size: =
10pt;">Chris,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Like many others have done I have driven my TR3A on long trips, the lo=
ngest once being in early spring from Toledo to Daytona and back, around 22=
00 miles roundtrip but with several hundred more while at Daytona itself, p=
assing from snow and slush, through
 steady rain and windy thunderstorms to the sunny and warm sands of Daytona=
 Beach itself.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>So, how did we keep the car clean? &nbsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The side curtains fit really well and we never got wet. At Daytona the=
 car was easy to clean. It had Triumph rubber floor mats, no carpet under t=
he seats, and the only carpet was on the transmission tunnel and the inclin=
ed area behind the seats. Nothing
 on the floor itself. I had cleaned and painted the floorboards with automo=
tive primer and black paint. At the car wash we pulled out the rubber floor=
 mats and vacuumed the interior, including under the seats. No problem and =
the car was clean. When I first
 obtained the car it had carpet with sound absorbent material under it, on =
the floorboards and under the seats. It looked very nice but like you I was=
 concerned about wet conditions and the sand we would inevitably track into=
 the car at Daytona so the floorboard
 carpet was removed and replaced with Triumph rubber floor mats. It worked =
so well and there was not enough difference in the noise level to warrant r=
einstalling them. It is still that way.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The car is a rust free CA TR3A, originally imported, sold and owned in=
 San Diego. In the mid 70's it made it's way through Yellowstone National P=
ark to Ripon, WI, and then to the Toledo, Ohio, area where it now resides i=
n my garage.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>I have never had an issue with rain making me, my passenger, or &nbsp;=
the interior wet in driving through rain. While the rubber floor mats do ma=
ke it easy to clean, I also have a set of carpets for the floorboards, held=
 in place with firewall clips that fit
 under the seats if installed. To date I have not done that but am consider=
ing it since we no longer take long trips in the TR3A preferring day trips =
now, only in good weather with dry roads. If I do that I would still use th=
e rubber floor mats over the carpets.
 However, if we were to embark on another long distance journey in the TR3A=
 it would be with no carpet under the seats or on the floorboards and the r=
ubber floor mats in their place.&nbsp;</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Randall Reihing<br>
<div style=3D"font-family: Times New Roman; color: #000000; font-size: 16px=
">
<hr tabindex=3D"-1">
<div id=3D"divRpF63728" style=3D"direction: ltr;"><font face=3D"Tahoma" siz=
e=3D"2" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b> Triumphs [[email-masked]=
m.net] on behalf of Chris Simo [[email-masked]]<br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, September 29, 2018 7:03 AM<br>
<b>To:</b> list Triumph<br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] TR2 quick release seats<br>
</font><br>
</div>
<div></div>
<div>
<div dir=3D"auto">I had a good friend die recently after a lumber truck fai=
led to stop on the freeway.&nbsp; That got me thinking about many things.&n=
bsp; One, is I'm not driving my Triumphs enough.
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Im going to start driving my TR2 and TR4 rain or shine.&n=
bsp;&nbsp;</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">For the TR4, Im going to pull the carpet. put Roadkill on=
 the floor where the seats are and reinstall carpet except not putting carp=
et under the seat. That way, I should be able to remove all carpet and dry =
the floor when it gets wet. Any more/better
 ideas here?</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">The TR2 is a bit more difficult. I will get wet when it r=
ains. I can omit the carpet under the seats, but I can't dry the floors und=
er the seats without removing 24 or more nuts....&nbsp; I guess I can use m=
y air hose to blow out most of the water
 under there.&nbsp; Any been there done that ideas out there?</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
</div>
<div dir=3D"auto">Thanks!</div>
<div dir=3D"auto"><br>
<br>
<div dir=3D"auto">Sent from my TRASH-80</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
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From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 10:04:39 -0400 (EDT)

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I've pretty much tried everything.  First I went with a carpet from one of the big three with a rubber heel guard.  It wore through quickly.  Then I bought the repro rubber mats.  It wore through fairly quickly.  Issue is, I drive mine daily and wore heavy leather dress shoes, likely culprits.  Anyway, I wound up tracing and making my own carpets from boat material including fabricating a heavy heel pad on top, then gluing the whole thing to a rubber substrate.  The carpet and rubber come out easily as a unit because I didn't run them under the seats. 

I won't win any originality points, but it did turn out looking pretty nice.

Terry Smith, '59 TR3A  TS 58667

New Hampshire

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    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-se=
rif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">I&#39;ve pretty much tried ever=
ything.&#160; First I went with a carpet from one of the big three with a r=
ubber heel guard.&#160; It wore through quickly.&#160; Then I bought the re=
pro rubber mats.&#160; It wore through fairly quickly.&#160; Issue is, I dr=
ive mine daily and wore heavy leather dress shoes, likely culprits.&#160; A=
nyway, I wound up tracing and making my own carpets from boat material incl=
uding fabricating a heavy heel pad on top, then gluing the whole thing to a=
 rubber substrate.&#160; The carpet and rubber come out easily as a unit be=
cause I didn&#39;t run them under the seats.&#160; <br></p><p style=3D"font=
-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"=
default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,ari=
al,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">I won&#39;t win any o=
riginality points, but it did turn out looking pretty nice.<br></p><p style=
=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" c=
lass=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helve=
tica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">Terry Smith, =
&#39;59 TR3A&#160; TS 58667<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:h=
elvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">New Hamps=
hire<br></p></body></html>
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From: TERRY SMITH <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 10:11:10 -0400 (EDT)

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So...I'm curious about the technology of this.  With this latest engine rebuild I switched from full syn to dinosaur oil (Valvoline racing) because tappets on the last engine were toast.  You know, the whole ZDDP thing we've talked so much about.

When I researched syn vs. dino, one of the things I read was that dino oil becomes acidic over time as combustion gases lace into it.  Syn, not so much.  What do I know.  That's what I read.

Now the question.  If it's true, then when does the seasonal oil change make sense with dino oil?  At the end of the season, so it sits through the winter with fresh oil, or in the Spring before start-up? 

It probably doesn't even matter, but again, what do I know.  Engineers???????

Thanks, everyone,

New Hampshire

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<!DOCTYPE html>
<html><head>
    <meta charset=3D"UTF-8">
</head><body><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-se=
rif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">So...I&#39;m curious about the =
technology of this.&#160; With this latest engine rebuild I switched from f=
ull syn to dinosaur oil (Valvoline racing) because tappets on the last engi=
ne were toast.&#160; You know, the whole ZDDP thing we&#39;ve talked so muc=
h about. <br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,san=
s-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-si=
ze:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"def=
ault-style">When I researched syn vs. dino, one of the things I read was th=
at dino oil becomes acidic over time as combustion gases lace into it.&#160=
; Syn, not so much.&#160; What do I know.&#160; That&#39;s what I read.<br>=
</p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-=
family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">N=
ow the question.&#160; If it&#39;s true, then when does the seasonal oil ch=
ange make sense with dino oil?&#160; At the end of the season, so it sits t=
hrough the winter with fresh oil, or in the Spring before start-up?&#160; <=
br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;co=
lor:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;fo=
nt-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style=
">It probably doesn&#39;t even matter, but again, what do I know.&#160; Eng=
ineers???????<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial=
,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"><br></p><p style=3D"fon=
t-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D=
"default-style">Thanks, everyone,<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-fa=
mily:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style">Ter=
ry Smith, &#39;59 TR3A&#160; TS 58667<br></p><p style=3D"font-size:12pt;fon=
t-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color:#333333;" class=3D"default-style"=
>New Hampshire<br></p></body></html>
=20
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From: Jeff Scarbrough <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 11:42:44 -0400

> Now the question.  If it's true, then when does the seasonal oil change make sense with dino oil?  At the end of the season, so it sits through the winter with fresh oil, or in the Spring before st…

I don't know the answer, so I'm going to go ahead and give you one...

To me, it make sense to change at the end of the driving season.  If
you change at the beginning, you've let somewhat acidic oil sit in
your motor for 12 months.  If you change it at the end of the season,
it's clean oil until the start of the next driving season.

Down here, every season is driving season.  Yes, an inch of snow
paralyzes the state, but that means there's no salt being spread...

Jeff Scarbrough
Corrosion Acres, Ga.