Subject: Re: [TR] Tab washers

From: Randall <[email-masked]> Em2Y2V3CUggPczbSWmt/DkSNeEf5kekrpWosXGOG69iihfGJHto0b9ywHzhqZLapUGTy3lIFCWPYYOsEurJwvFQ9hth9/JGvoeGn+dOlFPP5mI4ISvRS4Rng aLvBF4DGnSVQPgMXkvx9m/+HNq8My+uDT2we+mNL4xIsjykrI9P8kTJ7VEXXzFhX
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2018 16:42:18 -0400

--===============8092894410306750877==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit

------1CY1C8U4UDTWCEP8RONXKAMQHNXWR5
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I don't like tabs on rod bolts=2E They are much softer than the rod or bolt=
, so they can crush and let the bolt loosen even though it doesn't turn=2E =
This effect has been mentioned both by Caroll Smith and by Kas Kastner in t=
heir respective books on race car preparation=2E

I also had a tab break off once, and find it's way into the oil pump=2E Fo=
rtunately no serious harm done, I heard the change in engine sound and shut=
 it down before any serious damage happened=2E But it still caused me to mi=
ss a club drive that I was rather looking forward to; and of course it had =
to come home on a flatbed=2E Not a pleasant day!

That was over 20 years ago and I've been using oil resistant Loctite (on s=
tandard bolts) instead of tabs ever since=2E =20

Check to be sure the bolts aren't too long, by threading them into the rod=
 without the cap with only light finger pressure and then comparing the hei=
ght of the cap with the resulting gap=2E None of mine were too long on 2 di=
fferent engines, but its worth double checking=2E ISTR Kas mentioned that t=
oo=2E
-- Randall
------1CY1C8U4UDTWCEP8RONXKAMQHNXWR5
 charset=utf-8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

I don't like tabs on rod bolts=2E They are much softer than the rod or bolt=
, so they can crush and let the bolt loosen even though it doesn't turn=2E =
This effect has been mentioned both by Caroll Smith and by Kas Kastner in t=
heir respective books on race car preparation=2E<br><br>I also had a tab br=
eak off once, and find it's way into the oil pump=2E Fortunately no serious=
 harm done, I heard the change in engine sound and shut it down before any =
serious damage happened=2E But it still caused me to miss a club drive that=
 I was rather looking forward to; and of course it had to come home on a fl=
atbed=2E Not a pleasant day!<br><br>That was over 20 years ago and I've bee=
n using oil resistant Loctite (on standard bolts) instead of tabs ever sinc=
e=2E  <br><br>Check to be sure the bolts aren't too long, by threading them=
 into the rod without the cap with only light finger pressure and then comp=
aring the height of the cap with the resulting gap=2E None of mine were too=
 long on 2 different engines, but its worth double checking=2E ISTR Kas men=
tioned that too=2E<br>-- Randall
------1CY1C8U4UDTWCEP8RONXKAMQHNXWR5--

--===============8092894410306750877==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

** [email-masked] **

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

--===============8092894410306750877==--

---

From: "[email-masked]" <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2018 16:53:32 -0500

My thoughts,
I like the tab if only to have the peace of mind that there is a mechanical stop to secure the nut, or drill and safety wire.  If you decide to go the self lock route, use a stover nut and not nyloc. 

Bill B
Sent from my Handspring Treo

On Sep 26, 2018, at 2:20 PM, Bob Nogueira <[email-masked]> wrote:

Have to make a decision, do I go with rod  and main caps with bolts that use tab washers or the self locking type?.
The self locking scare me a bit since I can’t see (but do understand) how they work.  I can see how the self locking might be preferred by production engineers for speed but are they otherwise better?
Give me an answer so I have someone other than me to blame when my engine comes apart .  :) 

Bob Nogueira 

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

---

From: Tony Drews <[email-masked]>
Date: Wed, 26 Sep 2018 20:58:54 -0500

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--===============4579507181657744180==
 boundary="------------53FB8D02AB1400E930FBB894"
Content-Language: en-US

This is a multi-part message in MIME format.
--------------53FB8D02AB1400E930FBB894
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

John Deere did a big study on this and found that loctite is the way to 
go.  The tab washers seem so obviously to be a good thing, but they 
didn't work very well, and the softness of them allows torque values to 
decrease as they wear - proper torque is critical.

Cheers, Tony Drews

On 9/26/2018 3:42 PM, Randall wrote:
> I don't like tabs on rod bolts. They are much softer than the rod or 
> bolt, so they can crush and let the bolt loosen even though it doesn't 
> turn. This effect has been mentioned both by Caroll Smith and by Kas 
> Kastner in their respective books on race car preparation.
>
> I also had a tab break off once, and find it's way into the oil pump. 
> Fortunately no serious harm done, I heard the change in engine sound 
> and shut it down before any serious damage happened. But it still 
> caused me to miss a club drive that I was rather looking forward to; 
> and of course it had to come home on a flatbed. Not a pleasant day!
>
> That was over 20 years ago and I've been using oil resistant Loctite 
> (on standard bolts) instead of tabs ever since.
>
> Check to be sure the bolts aren't too long, by threading them into the 
> rod without the cap with only light finger pressure and then comparing 
> the height of the cap with the resulting gap. None of mine were too 
> long on 2 different engines, but its worth double checking. ISTR Kas 
> mentioned that too.
> -- Randall
>
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

--------------53FB8D02AB1400E930FBB894
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit

<html>
  <head>
    <meta http-equiv="Content-Type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
  </head>
  <body text="#000000" bgcolor="#FFFFFF">
    <p>John Deere did a big study on this and found that loctite is the
      way to go.  The tab washers seem so obviously to be a good thing,
      but they didn't work very well, and the softness of them allows
      torque values to decrease as they wear - proper torque is
      critical.</p>
    <p>Cheers, Tony Drews<br>
    </p>
    <br>
    <div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/26/2018 3:42 PM, Randall wrote:<br>
    </div>
    <blockquote type="cite"
      cite="mid:[email-masked]">
      <meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=utf-8">
      I don't like tabs on rod bolts. They are much softer than the rod
      or bolt, so they can crush and let the bolt loosen even though it
      doesn't turn. This effect has been mentioned both by Caroll Smith
      and by Kas Kastner in their respective books on race car
      preparation.<br>
      <br>
      I also had a tab break off once, and find it's way into the oil
      pump. Fortunately no serious harm done, I heard the change in
      engine sound and shut it down before any serious damage happened.
      But it still caused me to miss a club drive that I was rather
      looking forward to; and of course it had to come home on a
      flatbed. Not a pleasant day!<br>
      <br>
      That was over 20 years ago and I've been using oil resistant
      Loctite (on standard bolts) instead of tabs ever since. <br>
      <br>
      Check to be sure the bolts aren't too long, by threading them into
      the rod without the cap with only light finger pressure and then
      comparing the height of the cap with the resulting gap. None of
      mine were too long on 2 different engines, but its worth double
      checking. ISTR Kas mentioned that too.<br>
      -- Randall
      <br>
      <fieldset class="mimeAttachmentHeader"></fieldset>
      <br>
      <pre wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated" href="mailto:[email-masked]">[email-masked]</a> **

Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>  <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext" href="http://www.team.net/archive">http://www.team.net/archive</a>

</pre>
    </blockquote>
    <br>
  </body>
</html>

--------------53FB8D02AB1400E930FBB894--

--===============4579507181657744180==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

--===============4579507181657744180==--

---

From: Bob Peglow <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 17:40:58 -0400 (EDT)

Hello List,
My TR6 was painted by a previous owner but the black back was not done..
Is rattle can painting an option anyone has tried?
Satin black? Paint brand?

I appreciate all opinions and recommendations out there.
Thank you.
Bob
** [email-masked] **

---

From: Darrell Walker <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 17:12:26 -0700

--===============7347896333231229050==
 boundary="Apple-Mail=_7AC4D85F-5DEE-43C2-9A08-7A0AEE96101E"

--Apple-Mail=_7AC4D85F-5DEE-43C2-9A08-7A0AEE96101E
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

Hi Bob,

I used this two-part satin black from Eastwood for some trim and the =
rocker panels on my TR8:

https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-47968.html =
<https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-47968.html>

If you want a satin black from a can, that=E2=80=99s the way I would go.

-Darrell

> On Sep 29, 2018, at 2:40 PM, Bob Peglow <[email-masked]> wrote:
>=20
>=20
> Hello List,
> My TR6 was painted by a previous owner but the black back was not =
done..
>=20
>=20
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  =
>=20
> Unsubscribe/Manage: =
http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]

--=20
Darrell Walker
66 TR4A IRS-SC CTC67956L
81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206
Vancouver, WA, USA

--Apple-Mail=_7AC4D85F-5DEE-43C2-9A08-7A0AEE96101E
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
	charset=utf-8

<html><head><meta http-equiv=3D"Content-Type" content=3D"text/html; =
charset=3Dutf-8"></head><body style=3D"word-wrap: break-word; =
-webkit-nbsp-mode: space; line-break: after-white-space;" class=3D""><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div>Hi Bob,<div class=3D""><br =
class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">I used this two-part satin black from =
Eastwood for some trim and the rocker panels on my TR8:</div><div =
class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D""><a =
href=3D"https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-47968.h=
tml" =
class=3D"">https://www.eastwood.com/2k-aero-spray-rat-rod-satin-black-4796=
8.html</a></div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">If =
you want a satin black from a can, that=E2=80=99s the way I would =
go.</div><div class=3D""><br class=3D""></div><div class=3D"">-Darrell<br =
class=3D""><div><br class=3D""><blockquote type=3D"cite" class=3D""><div =
class=3D"">On Sep 29, 2018, at 2:40 PM, Bob Peglow &lt;<a =
href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a>&gt; wrote:</div><br =
class=3D"Apple-interchange-newline"><div class=3D""><div class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Hello List,<br class=3D"">My TR6 was painted by a previous =
owner but the black back was not done..<br class=3D"">Is rattle can =
painting an option anyone has tried?<br class=3D"">Satin black? Paint =
brand?<br class=3D""><br class=3D"">I appreciate all opinions and =
recommendations out there.<br class=3D"">Thank you.<br class=3D"">Bob<br =
class=3D"">** <a href=3D"mailto:[email-masked]" =
class=3D"">[email-masked]</a> **<br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/donate.html" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br class=3D"">Archive: <a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a> &nbsp;<a =
href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" =
class=3D"">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br class=3D""><br =
class=3D"">Unsubscribe/Manage: <a =
href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]=
" =
class=3D"">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/darrellw360@mac.=
com</a><br class=3D""></div></div></blockquote></div><br =
class=3D""></div><br class=3D""><br class=3D""><div class=3D"">
--&nbsp;<br class=3D"">Darrell Walker<br class=3D"">66 TR4A IRS-SC =
CTC67956L<br class=3D"">81 TR8 SATPZ458XBA406206<br class=3D"">Vancouver, =
WA, USA

</div>
<br class=3D""></body></html>=

--Apple-Mail=_7AC4D85F-5DEE-43C2-9A08-7A0AEE96101E--

--===============7347896333231229050==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline

--===============7347896333231229050==--

---

From: Brian Kemp <[email-masked]>
Date: Sat, 29 Sep 2018 18:51:41 -0700

I'll be curious to see the responses.  If I were doing it, I'd probably 
strip all the bits off the back of the car and have a local paint shop 
professional spray it.  I'd at least talk to one and get an estimate.  
My TR6 is stain black on the back.

Brian

On 9/29/2018 2:40 PM, Bob Peglow wrote:
> Unsubscribe/Manage: 
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/[email-masked]
>